Barnett's Manual 5th Edition—ISBN 0-931382-29-8—Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett—All duplication prohibited

9 – ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS

ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Retainer: A clip that holds a group of ball bearings
that go between a cup and a cone. A retainer is sometimes
This chapter is about adjustable-cup bottom brack-
mistakenly called a race.
ets. Adjustable-cup bottom brackets have a spindle, loose
Seal mechanism: A rubber insert that fills the gap
balls or balls in a retainer, and cups that thread into the
where the spindle goes through the holes in the adjustable
bottom-bracket shell. There are also sealed cartridge-
cup and fixed cup.
bearing bottom brackets, which may press into, or thread
Spindle: The axle that rotates inside the bottom-
into, the bottom-bracket shell. These are generally less
bracket shell. The word axle is sometimes used in the
serviceable and are covered in a chapter called CARTRIDGE-
vernacular in regards to the bottom-bracket spindle.
BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS (page 10-1).
1
3 4 5
2

GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY 6
Adjustable cup: A bearing cup that threads into
the left side of the bottom-bracket shell, which is
positioned further in or out to loosen or tighten the
bearing adjustment.
Bottom bracket: The bearing assembly that allows 7
4 2
the crankset to rotate in the bottom-bracket shell.
Bottom-bracket shell: The 1.5" diameter, 3" long Bottom-bracket
horizontal frame tube at the bottom of the frame that shell
contains the bottom bracket.
Cone: A surface that bearings roll on that is posi-
tioned inside the circle of balls. Two cones are built into
the bottom-bracket spindle.
Cup: A surface that bearings roll on that is posi- 9.1 Parts of the bottom bracket: 1. Lockring, 2. Seal
mechanisms, 3. Adjustable cup (left side), 4. Ball bear-
tioned outside the circle of balls. The cups thread into ings, 5. Plastic sleeve protector, 6. Spindle, 7. Fixed cup
the bottom-bracket shell. (right side).
Fixed cup: A bearing cup that threads into the right
side of the bottom-bracket shell that is seated fully and
left in one fixed position. The fixed cup has a built-in PREREQUISITES
flange that stops against the right end of the bottom- Chainline error
bracket shell. Before removing crank arms the chainline should
Lockring: A ring with notches on its outer perimeter be checked. The reason for this is that one way to fix a
that threads onto the adjustable cup and against the left chainline error is to change the bottom-bracket spindle,
end of the bottom-bracket shell and fixes the position of something that may be done when overhauling the bottom
the adjustable cup relative to the bottom-bracket shell. bracket. See the CHAINLINE chapter (INDICATIONS, page
Lockrings are round and have notches that are engaged 27-2) before removing the crank arms.
by a special tool called a lockring spanner.
Race: The cone or cup surface on which a ball bearing Crank-arm removal
rolls. A misuse of this term is to use it to describe a set In order to overhaul the bottom bracket, it is nec-
of ball bearings held together in a holder, which is more essary to remove the crank arms. To just adjust the bottom
properly called a retainer. bracket, it is recommended, and often required, to remove

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Barnett's Manual 5th Edition—ISBN 0-931382-29-8—Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett—All duplication prohibited
9 – ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS
the crank arms. See the PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS chapter So what symptom would indicate that the bottom
(page 20-5) before starting the bottom-bracket overhaul bracket should be overhauled? The only one is that when
or adjustment. performing an adjustment, the looseness (free play) in the
bearings cannot be eliminated without the bearing becom-
ing excessively tight (does not turn smoothly). The lack of
INDICATIONS smoothness could be caused by dry grease, contaminated
There are several reasons the bottom bracket may need grease, or worn parts.
an overhaul and several reasons it may need adjustment.
A bottom-bracket overhaul should be done as part of Symptoms indicating need
a regular maintenance cycle, the duration of which will of adjustment
change depending on the type of riding, the amount of The primary symptom that will be experienced indi-
riding, and the type of equipment. Adjustments should cating that the bottom bracket needs an adjustment is
be done on the basis of need. looseness in the bearings. This can be detected by grasping
the end of the crank arms and jerking them in and out
Maintenance cycles while feeling for a knocking sensation. Another possible
If you start out with a bottom bracket known to be
symptom indicating that the bottom bracket needs adjust-
in good condition with good quality grease, it should be
ment is a clicking sound that cannot be solved by tight-
able to be ridden thousands of miles without needing
ening the crank arms, chainrings, pedals, or pedal parts.
an overhaul. If the equipment sees little wet-weather
A loose fixed cup or loose lockring can be the source of
riding, then an appropriate maintenance cycle would be
this sound. Whenever the lockring or fixed cup is loose,
2,000–3,000 miles in most cases. If a lot of wet-condition
it is not adequate to simply secure the loose part, as the
riding is done, then the maintenance cycle might need to
bottom-bracket adjustment may have been lost while the
be as often as every 750–1,000 miles. Parts rust whether
part was loose.
being ridden or not, so another factor is how long the bike
One other case in which it is recommended to
may be sitting before it will be used again. For example, if
adjust the bottom bracket is on any new bike assembly.
ridden 200 miles in the rain in the fall, then the bike is put
Most bikes come in the box from the factory with an
away for four months for the winter, it would probably
installed bottom bracket. It is common that the factory
be a good idea to overhaul the bottom bracket before the
is not very reliable, and bottom brackets sometimes are
bike is put away for the winter.
completely worn out after as little as 1,000 miles of use
Some other factors affecting the maintenance cycle are
due to poor factory setup.
whether the bottom bracket is equipped for grease injec-
tion and whether the bottom bracket has seal mechanisms.
Grease-injection systems do not eliminate the need for overhauling. TOOL CHOICES
They only increase the acceptable time between overhauls; The design or brand of bottom bracket will determine
furthermore, grease- injection systems are only as good as the tools needed. The following list (table 9-1) covers tools
the customer is consistent and thorough about pumping for adjustable-cup bottom brackets only. This list covers
in new grease. Seal mechanisms (adjustable-cup bottom all the tools for the job. The preferred choices are in bold.
brackets with rubber seals between the spindle and cups) A tool is preferred because of a balance among ease of
are not effective water-tight seals. Their effectiveness varies use, quality, versatility, and economy. When more than one
with the brand and model. At best, they can lengthen the tool for one function is bold, it means that several tools
acceptable time between overhauls. are required for different configurations of parts.
Symptoms indicating need of overhaul
One of the most common symptoms that leads the
customer to believe that his or her bottom bracket needs
TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
Overhauling the bottom bracket (including crank-
overhaul is noise coming from the general area of the arm removal and bottom-bracket adjustment) is a 30–40
bottom bracket. Most noises that seem to come from minute job of moderate difficulty. Adjusting the bottom
the bottom bracket are crankset and pedal noises. When bracket alone (including crank-arm removal) is a 10–15
bottom brackets do make noise, it is almost always from a minute job of moderate difficulty.
loose cup or lockring and can be fixed without an overhaul.
A bottom bracket with enough internal damage or wear
to make a noise that is audible while riding would be an
extremely damaged piece of equipment.

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Barnett's Manual 5th Edition—ISBN 0-931382-29-8—Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett—All duplication prohibited
9 – ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS

ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET TOOLS (table 9-1)

Tool Fits and considerations
FIXED-CUP TIGHTENING (cup already installed)
Stein FCC2 Attaches to nut-type and bolt-type spindles to retain spanners to cup
Campagnolo 713 36mm fixed cup (also 15mm pedal flats)
Delta 7140 36 mm fixed cup
Park HCW-3 Slotted 36mm spanner fits with right crank still mounted, if inner ring does not
overlap fixed cup (also fits 25mm one-piece bottom-bracket cones and nuts)
Park HCW-4 36mm fixed cup (also fits pin-hole adjustable cups w/ 29mm dia. hole pattern)
Park HCW-11 16mm flats found on old English and some Taiwan fixed cups (also fits adjust-
able cups with slots or square holes)
Park HCW-13 36mm fixed cup (also has 3-hook lockring spanner for 3-notch lockrings)
Shimano TL-FC31 (set) Set includes 36mm fixed-cup wrench
Sugino 201 (set) Set includes 36mm fixed-cup wrench
Zogs FCW-1400 36 mm fixed cup
FIXED-CUP INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL
Campagnolo 793/A 36mm fixed cups
Hozan C358 35.7mm and 36mm
United Bicycle Tool Universal (works by friction, may slip on most difficult removals)
BBCR
Park BBT-8 Fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700) fixed cups
Park TWB-368 Crowfoot adapter that allows use of torque wrench with BBT-8
Shimano TL-UN96 Fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700) fixed cups
VAR 30 w/ 30/2 & 30/3 35mm, 35.4mm, 36mm, 36.7mm, 37.7mm and 38mm fixed cups
LOCKRING TOOLS (Single-hook design fits all lockrings, but is best used when pliers will not fit because
number of notches is odd. Pliers are superior grip, but don’t fit three-notch lockrings. Multiple-hook de-
sign tools fit specific brand of lockring only.)
Campagnolo 712 Multiple-hook design fits Campagnolo lockrings (also fits 32mm headset)
Eldi 2712 Single-hook hinged design (fits headset lockrings also)
Hozan C203 Pliers fit even-notched lockrings securely
Hozan C205 Single-hook design (other end fits headset lockrings)
Park BBT-7 Multiple-hook design fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700)
aluminum lockrings
Park HCW-5 Single hook design on one end fits all lockrings, multiple-hook design on other
end fits some 3- and 6-notch lockrings
Park HCW-12 Single-hook design (also fits 32mm headset races)
Park HCW-13 Three-hook design fits common three-notch lockrings (also fits 36mm fixed cups)
Shimano TL-FC30 (set) Set includes multiple-hook design, fits Shimano lockrings only
Stein LW Vise-grip pliers has secure grip for stuck lockrings w/ even number of notches
Sugino 201 (set) Set includes single-hook design lockring tool
X-Axis Lockring Tool Single-hook design
X-Axis XTR Lockring Multiple-hook design fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700)
Tool aluminum lockrings
VAR 16 Pliers fit even-notched lockrings securely
(continued)

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Barnett's Manual 5th Edition—ISBN 0-931382-29-8—Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett—All duplication prohibited
9 – ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS

ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET TOOLS ( table 9-1 cont.)

Tool Fits and considerations
ADJUSTABLE-CUP PIN SPANNERS (Adjustable spanners can be adjusted to fit various cups. They may
be light-duty or heavy-duty. Fixed spanners fit certain cups only and are all heavy-duty.)
Park SPA-1 (green) Light-duty adjustable with 3.0mm pins
Park SPA-2 (red) Light-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins
Park SPA-6 Heavy-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins (not as stout as VAR 13)
Park HCW-4 Fixed pin spanner (fits many, but not all, pin-hole cups)
Shimano TL-FC30 (set) Set includes fixed pin spanner that fits Shimano cups
Sugino 201 (set) Set includes fixed pin spanner that fits Sugino cups
VAR 13 Heavy-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins
SLOTTED ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with square holes or slots in its face)
Park SPA-4 (yellow) Light-duty, limited fit
Park HCW-11 Heavy-duty (fits cups with 16mm flats also)
VAR 311 Heavy-duty, but awkward compared to Park HCW-11
16MM FLATS ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with 16mm wrench flats)
Park HCW-11 Good tool, only one made for the job (works on similar fixed cups also)
HEX-FACED ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with hex fittings on its face)
Park HCW-3 25mm (36mm fixed-cup spanner on other end)
VAR 19/1 22mm & 24mm
VAR 19/2 26mm & 28mm
VAR 19/3 22mm & 24.9mm
NOTCHED-FLANGE ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (XTR BB-M950 bottom bracket)
Park BBT-8 Both fit Shimano XTR (BB-M950) adjustable cups (see FIXED CUP INSTALLA-
Shimano TL-UN96 TION AND REMOVAL section on page 9-3 also)
SPLINED-FACE ADJUSTABLE CUP SPANNERS (Dura-Ace BB-7700 bottom bracket)
Park BBT-2 Accepts 3/8" driver (also fits Shimano and ISIS cartridge bottom brackets)
Lifu 11B0, 11B1, & Each requires use of 32mm headset wrench and/or 1/2" driver and also fits
11B3 Shimano and ISIS cartridge bottom brackets
Shimano TL-UN65 Requires use of 32mm headset wrench or 1/2" driver
Shimano TL-UN74-S Requires use of 32mm headset wrench

COMPLICATIONS Difficult adjustment

One other difficulty that might be experienced is that
Difficult cup removal it may not be possible to get a good adjustment even with
Difficulty may be experienced removing the adjustable good-quality new parts. If the symptom experienced is
cup or fixed cup. Using a self-retaining fixed-cup tool such as that the spindle feels smooth through part of its rotation,
the VAR 30 and a cheater bar will generally solve the prob- then gets difficult to turn, and finally easy again, then the
lem for the fixed cup. When the adjustable cup is difficult bottom-bracket shell may need facing. See the FACING THE
to turn, retain the adjustable-cup spanner with something BOTTOM BRACKET chapter (page 3-4).
like a Stein Fixed Cup Spanner Clamp (FCC-2).
Difficulty may be experienced threading the cups Limited parts availability
out even after they have broken loose, or difficulty This type of bottom bracket is rapidly declining in
may be experienced threading them in. In this case, use. Consequently, only a very limited number of parts
it is recommended to tap the bottom-bracket threads. are available. Sometimes the only solution is to replace
See the TAPPING THE BOTTOM-BRACKET SHELL chapter the whole bottom bracket with a comparable cartridge
(page 2-3). bottom bracket, but even this can be problematic. Euro-
pean versions of this type of bottom bracket often have

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Barnett's Manual 5th Edition—ISBN 0-931382-29-8—Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett—All duplication prohibited
9 – ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS
a spindle taper that is not compatible with any cartridge
bottom brackets. Additionally, at close to the same time
THREADS
Bottom brackets thread into the frame. There are
that cartridge bottom brackets began to replace this type
several different thread standards listed in the following
of bottom bracket, crank arms were changing in design in
table. It is necessary to identify what thread standard is
a way that did not require as long a spindle. Consequently,
used on a particular bike in order to determine which way
with bottom brackets of this type that have longer spin-
to turn the fixed cup or to determine compatible replace-
dles, there are no comparable cartridge bottom brackets.
ment parts. To identify the threads, a thread-pitch gauge
The lack of replacement parts and compatible cartridge
and a caliper are needed.
bottom brackets can result in the need for an entire new
See table 9-2 (following) for bottom-bracket-thread
crankset (including bottom bracket).
information.

BOTTOM-BRACKET THREADS (table 9-2)

ADJUSTABLE CUPS: Always found on the left side of the bike and always are right-hand thread.
FIXED CUPS: Always found on the right side of the bike, see Right-side thread direction row below for thread direction.
Thread type “BSC”1 “ISO”1 “Italian” “Swiss” “French” “Whitworth”
Typical All Asian and most American Most Italian, French bikes French bikes English inex-
occurrences bicycles, as well as many others. some Mexican from the late- from the mid- pensive three-
All unmarked Asian cups are BSC and American seventies to eighties or speed and
or ISO thread. bicycles mid-eighties earlier derailleur bikes
Pitch 24tpi 24tpi 1mm 1mm 26tpi
Cup O.D. 34.6–34.9mm 35.6–35.9mm 34.6–34.9mm 34.6–34.9mm 34.6–34.9mm
Right-side left-hand thread right-hand left-hand right-hand left-hand
thread direction thread thread thread thread
(fixed cup)
Left-side thread right-hand thread right-hand right-hand right-hand right-hand
direction (adjust- thread thread thread thread
able cup)
Nominal thread 1.370" × 24tpi1 1.375" × 24tpi1 36mm × 24tpi 35mm × 1mm 35mm × 1mm 1–3/8" × 26tpi
description2 (Shimano4) (left3) (right3)
Shell I.D. 33.6–33.9mm 34.6–34.9mm 33.6–33.9mm 33.6–33.9mm 33.6–33.9mm
1
BSC (British Standard Cycle) and ISO (International Standards Organization) sizes are fully interchangeable. The
.005" diameter difference shown in the Nominal thread description row is a difference on “paper” only.
2
Nominal thread description is the name of the thread type. The diameter value is not a measurement but a value that
has been rounded up from the actual measurement.
3
French and Swiss threads are identical except that the thread direction of the fixed cup (right side) is left-hand for the
Swiss and right-hand for the French. The notations (left) and (right) rarely show up in the nominal thread descriptions,
although sometimes the letter “G” (stands for left in French) might be part of the name (example: 35 × 1G) if it is a
Swiss thread.
4
Shimano marks BSC cups “BC 1.37 × 24.”

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