Mary Jane's TEAROOM

presents

♥ Romeo Bear
Romeo is a little baby brown bear
Soft, warm and utterly huggable....
he's loved by all who visit the tearoom!

Equipment
1 Pair of 3.25mm Knitting Needles (U.K No.10/ U.S 3)
1 Pair of 3mm Knitting Needles (U.K No.11/ U.S 2.5) Plus 1 spare Knitting Needle/Stitch Holder
2 Long Pointed Darning Needles approx 8cm (3”) for embroidery / 1 Wool Needle for closing seams and
working duplicate stitch to ear (Long doll needles are also useful for passing yarn through head and body)
Good Quality Washable Polyester Filling conforming to Current Safety Standards (approx 100g )
Plastic-Headed Pins or Position Eyes for placing features (I used patchwork pins here)
Stuffing Stick/Chop Stick or blunt end of a Knitting Needle for stuffing (all are useful)
4 Buttons to decorate (optional) - I used Coats Crafts Wooden Buttons No. 1065 1.5cm (See also safety P.3)
Brown embroidery thread/floss to attach buttons and Black thread/floss for nose /mouth (or use yarn)
Soft tape measure
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A few notes before beginning
Yarns
Below are the details of the yarns used to create Romeo
Romeo ♥
I always use good quality natural yarns which I feel give the best, long-lasting results but you can use
up leftover yarns of the corresponding weight with a very satisfactory outcome.
Standard DK yarn (light worsted/ 8 ply) has been used in this pattern) The original ball band details
are listed below as a guide to help when substituting yarns.

An early sketch...dreaming of Romeo... Are you ready?

Yarns (rounded up to nearest 10g) DK Weight Yarn (Light Worsted/ 8 ply weight)
Head/Body/Limbs/Ears/Jumper/Boot Tops: Yarn A King Cole Baby Alpaca DK Camel 80g
Socks/ Jumper : Yarn B King Cole Baby Alpaca DK Fawn 60g
Boots/Jumper/Breeches: Yarn C King Cole Baby Alpaca DK Koala 80g
Strands of black yarn for duplicate stitch heart 'button' in ear (use same weight yarn or slightly
thicker than knitted stitches but not thinner as it will not cover the stitches)
Eyes You will need strands of black DK yarn for embroidery to eyes (I use Cotton DK) If you prefer
to use teddy eyes or black buttons I would suggest 7mm size (see also notes on safety)
Yarn Economy Tip No.1 To avoid purchasing 2 x 50g balls of B knit the whole of the leg in A (no
socks) and the boot turnover in B. You could use standard DK yarn oddments for socks if you still
wish to include them (20g) See also P.4 for further economy tips.
Original Ball Band Information
Here, I have listed the ball band information required for any substituted yarns for you to compare.
This information is always given on the ball label and if purchasing over the internet it will be stated
in the yarn details. It is usually given for a 10 x 10cm (4 x 4”) tension square knitted using stocking
stitch. (Please note that smaller needles are always used than those given on the original ball band
details when knitting pieces in the pattern which will later be stuffed. This is common in knitted toys to
avoid holes when stretched and below I have given the DK tension for Romeo when knitted on the
smaller 3.25mm (U.K No.10/ U.S 3) and 3mm (U.K No.11/ U.S 2.5) needles used in pattern.
Original ball band details: 10 x 10cm (4 x 4") tension square (gauge swatch) in St-st
King Cole Baby Alpaca DK 22sts, 28 rows (4mm/ UK 8/ US 6) Ball size 50g/100m
Tension on smaller needles: 10 x 10cm (4 x 4") tension square in St-st (as used in pattern)
Body: 25sts, 35 rows (3.25mm needles) Jumper/Breeches: 26sts, 36 rows (3mm needles)
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One final note on tension!
If you know that your knitting tension is always on the looser side then move down a needle size from
those used in the pattern to prevent the stuffing* showing through when stretched (do this for both
needle sizes) Otherwise personal knitting tension is not so much of a worry in toys i.e. if your tension
is on the tighter side it will only result in an overall slightly smaller Romeo ♥
(*See also FILL P.7 for stuffing tips)
Casting on: The thumb method of casting on has been used throughout the pattern
Casting off: Always cast off K wise unless otherwise stated
Only press pieces where indicated (never those which are to be stuffed later) and check the ball
band details for substituted yarns
Making up I always use mattress stitch unless otherwise stated working with RS of work
uppermost to close seams and I have allowed an extra one stitch seam allowance on either side to
provide a really neat finish
Tips for Yarn Ends
Always leave a long enough yarn end when casting on/off so that it can be used to sew up the seam
later if required. This is a much easier and neater way of finishing seams.
After securing yarn ends take them into the stuffing and out again a little further away then pull and
cut so that the end is lost in the stuffing.
Tip for Small Pieces
Using embroidery thread instead of yarn to attach buttons and embroider nose/mouth will create a
really neat finish.
Measurements: Head to Toe 38cm (15”)
Body length (from centre neck down centre front to bottom seam) 15.5cm (6.1")
Abdominal girth at widest point 24cm ( 9.4")
Arm Span 28cm (11”) Arm Circ 10cm (4”) L 14cm (5.5”)
Toe to Heel 8cm (3.1”) Foot circ 16cm (6.3”)
Leg L16cm (6.3”) Leg Circ 11.5cm (4 ½”)
Safety
For safety reasons I recommend that Romeo ♥ should only be made as a decorative item and
should not be made as a toy for children under 3 years of age. Do not add buttons or teddy eyes if
your project will be in the vicinity of a young child. Always count pins and needles before using and
after removing to make sure none are left in your creation.
Abbreviations
beg: beginning
circ: circumference
cont: continue
dec: decrease
g-st: garter stitch (every row a K row)
inc: increase
K: Knit
kfb: Knit into front & back of stitch
M1: Pick up the loop between the stitch just worked and the next stitch with left hand needle. Knit into the back of it to
make a new stitch.
P: Purl
RS: Right side
sl: slip
SSK:Slip one st K wise, slip another st K wise then insert L needle into front loops of slipped sts and K together from this
position through back of loops
rep: repeat
st: stitch
st-st: stocking stitch (alternate rows: K1 row, P 1 row)
tbl: through back of loop
tog: together
WS: Wrong side
*If you are new to knitting, knittinghelp.com has simple and clear instructional videos of the above
stitches.
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Time to begin
Romeo ♥

Yarn Economy Tip No.2

To knit only Romeo's body, breeches
and straps (without socks) you will
need the following...

Yarn A: 2 x 50g balls

Yarn C: 1 x 50g ball

Knit the socks using Standard DK

oddments (20g) if you still want to add
them but he will look lovely without for
an economical and easy knit!

Knit his breeches in a bright coloured

yarn for a stronger contrast.

Decorate with vintage buttons.

Legs with Walking Socks 3.25mm Needles (Make 2)

Cast on 24 sts in B beg at sole leaving a yarn end to close sole seam
Next row: K1, (kfb) to last st, K1 - 46 sts
St-st 15 rows beg with a P row
Decrease to shape instep
Next row: K9, (K2tog) 14 times, K9 - 32sts
P 1 row
Next row: K9, (K2tog) 7 times, K9 – 25 sts
St-st 6 rows beg with a P row (WS)
Sock edging
K 1 row (WS) (*If you are omitting socks then reverse these 2 rows)
P 1 row (RS)
Change to A leaving a yarn end long enough to close leg seam
St-st 27 rows beg with a P row (WS)
Shape top
Next row: K4, (K2tog) 3 times, K5, (K2tog) 3 times, K4 - 19 sts.
Cast off leaving a yarn end to attach leg to body. Put the legs to one side for the moment.
Baby Bear Walking Boots 3.25mm Needles (Make 2) See photographs pages 5,9 & 12
Boot Upper
Cast on 48sts in C beg at base edge
G-st 4 rows
St-st 6 rows beg with a K row (RS)
Beg decrease
Next row: K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1- 46sts
P 1 row
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Repeat last 2 rows once more - 44sts
Next row: Cast off 8 sts, K to end - 36sts (RS)
Next row: Cast off 8 sts, P next 8 sts on L needle, P2tog, P17sts - 27sts (WS)
Change to 3mm Needles and A for single rib turnover
Next row: (P1, K1) to last st, P1
Next row: (K1, P1) to last st, K1
Repeat last 2 rows a further 5 times (10 rows more in all)
Cast off and leave yarn end to secure corner of turnover.

Sole 3.25mm Needles (Make 2)

Cast on 6sts in C beg at toe end
K 1 row
Begin increase
Next: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1- 8sts
K 1 row
Repeat last 2 rows twice more - 12 sts
G-st 19 rows
Begin decrease
Next: SSK, K to last 2 sts, K2tog - 10sts
K 1 row
Repeat last 2 rows twice more - 6sts
Cast off leaving long yarn end to attach to upper
Slip (whip) stitch sole in place around edges
Make Up
Do not press pieces. Weave in cast on yarn end of sole on WS. Fold boot upper in half with RS
together and close seam using backstitch up to point where A joins and fasten off.
Now with RS of pieces outside pin sole to upper. Secure in place by oversewing small stitches around
edges (as photograph above) then fasten off inside boot.
Roll over ribbed edging of upper boot slightly at the back (just below sock top) and secure each corner
at front in place on WS of turnover (see P.12)

Abdominal circumference is 24cm at widest point Insert needle through base to embroider features
Now Make Up The Legs
Close seams of sock using mattress stitch and B. At this point stuff the foot and ankle firmly (check
measurements P.3) and then close the rest of the leg, stuffing as you work. Thin the stuffing slightly at top of
each leg to aid sitting (the leg openings at the top should remain open)
When the legs are completed lightly press the leg seam under a cotton/linen cloth with an iron if needed then
place the cloth over the sole seam (protect your hand too) and press firmly applying a puff of steam. This will
flatten the sole area giving a really neat appearance. The Walking Boot will stretch over the foot securely.
 6
Baby Bear Body 3.25mm Needles(1 piece)
Cast on 15 sts in A beg at neck edge
P 1 row
Next row: K1, (M1, K1) to end - 29 sts
P 1 row
Next row: (K2, M1) 7 times, K1, (M1, K2) 7 times – 43 sts
St-st 9 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K15, M1, (K2, M1) twice, K5, (M1, K2) twice, M1, K15 - 49sts
St-st 5 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K17, M1, K4, M1, K7, M1, K4, M1, K17 - 53sts
St-st 9 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K15, SSK, K4, SSK, K7, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K15 - 49sts
St-st 5 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K15, SSK, K3, SSK, K5, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K15 - 45sts
St-st 5 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K1, (K2tog) to end - 23sts.
P 1 row
Cast off leaving yarn end for centre back closure.
To Make Up Body
Close centre back seam using cast off yarn end. Fill body firmly from each end, turning and moulding
stuffing as you work. Slightly 'square off’ the bottom end as you stuff (as photo P.5) and keep in mind
that you need to ‘fill out’ the abdominal area (the abdominal girth should measure 24cm at widest
point when finished) Close the bottom end seam using mattress stitch but leave the top end open for
the moment. Attach open ended legs to body by slip (whip) stitching around the edges then fasten off.

Use pins to position features Draw back yarn to create an eye socket
Head 3.25mm Needles (I piece)
Cast on 11sts in A beg at back of head and leaving yarn end to close seam
P 1 row
Next row: K1, (M1, K1) to end – 21 sts
Rep last 2 rows once more – 41 sts
St-st 5 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K1, (M1, K3) to last st, M1, K1 – 55 sts
St-st 21 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K1, (K2tog) to end - 28 sts
St-st 9 rows beg with a P row
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Next row: K1, (K2tog.) to last st, K1 - 15 sts
P 1 row
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, gather and secure, leaving yarn
end to close nose to chin seam. Put head piece to one side for moment.
Baby Bear Ears 3.25mm Needles (Make 4 - 1 piece is embroidered using duplicate st - optional)
Cast on 11sts in A beg at top of ear.
P 1 row
Next row: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1- 13 sts
P 1 row
Next row: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1- 15 sts
P 1 row
Next row: K1, M1, K6, (lie a strand of coloured thread between st just worked and next st on L needle to mark the
point where you will begin duplicate st ) K to last st, M1, K1- 17 sts
Next row: P9, (take coloured thread strand on WS over to RS now and tie ends together to form thread tag), P to end.
Next row: K1, SSK, K1, (SSK) twice, K1, (K2tog) twice, K1, K2tog, K1- 11 sts
Cast off leaving long yarn ends to oversew around ear later and to secure to head.
Lightly weave in cast on yarn end of each ear on WS
Diagram illustrating position of heart (Tag marks the base of the first 'V' stitch at base of heart)
Working in duplicate stitch (Swiss
darning) and black yarn embroider a heart
motif (as diagram) on 1 ear piece
beginning at base of heart (marked by tag)
and working across each row.
Each square represents one duplicate st (cover
6 ' V' stitches in all taking care to watch
tension and secure yarn ends on reverse)
Begin at base of heart *
Make Up Ear Pin 2 ear pieces (WS tog) and using one of the long yarn ends oversew small sts around
curved edges to join together (leave second yarn end in place if needed to secure ear to head later) No need to
sew cast off edges together at this point as you can do this when securing ear in place. Smooth around edges of
ear carefully with an iron and small puffs of steam under a cotton/linen cloth if needed.
Now Make up Head
1. Sew
Close nose to chin seam (ending just past K2tog decrease) then fasten off. Gather up the stitches at the back of
the head and close the seam leaving an opening of approx 2.5cm (1") at the base of the head. You will use this
opening to embroider the facial features before closing (see photograph P.5)
2. Fill
Fill with small amounts of stuffing at a time starting at the nose and back of the head areas first then working
evenly around the head (tearing off small amounts at a time will ensure that the fibres knit together)
Mould and firm the stuffing as you work (the head should be firm to the touch) but avoid overstretching the
stitches resulting in holes. This may seem to take quite an amount of time but you will suddenly see everything
fit into place! Stuffing tip: Carefully insert the tip of a darning/wool needle into the stuffing between
the stitches from the RS of head and gently move stuffing forwards into areas such as around the nose
and to also fill out the cheeks for a perfect shape (a useful tip for all areas)
3.Press
Gently smooth any uneven areas around the nose, back of head and seams if needed by placing a cotton/linen
cloth over the area and giving short puffs of steam with an iron (build up the heat gradually so that you don’t
overdo this)
4. Embroider
To help you position the features pin the ears in place at this point (approximately 4cm apart/ 1.6”) Mark out
the features with round headed pins (count your pins to make sure they are all removed afterwards)
The centre of each eye lies on the decrease row and there should be 4 stitches between each eye when complete
(see photographs P.6 and P.8)
Now begin to embroider as follows:
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Thread a long darning needle with black yarn .Tie a knot approx 10cm (4”) from the end of the yarn. Insert the
needle into the opening at the base of the head and bring out through the centre of the eye area where you have
placed your pins. Remove these pins now and return the needle back through the stuffing and neck opening
pulling back the yarn significantly so that this produces an eye socket and also adds contour to the
face (You will also see that the nose area rises up as photograph below)
Thread another long darning needle and repeat this process for the other eye so that you are now
working with 2 needles and threads. Once the eye sockets are evenly placed knot your yarn ends to
secure and now you can continue and apply the French Knots. I make a series of these in each eye
working from one eye to the other and building up. Don’t worry if they aren’t perfect as they are
sitting in the socket and thus just creating a dense mass. You will know you have finished when you
feel that someone is looking directly back at you! When you are happy that the eyes are equally sized,
tie the ends of the yarns together again securely at the base of head and cut off any excess.
(Tip: A successful alternative is to use the small teddy/doll eyes which are readily available these days if you
don’t want to apply French Knots (size 7mm) Make sure they are still embedded in the eye socket for greatest
effect although these are not suitable if around very young children. Alternatively make a large knot in the
middle of a long thread of yarn then pass both ends through the eye socket and out through the head opening,
finally tying together securely. The knot will ‘sit’ in the eye cavity.

♥ In love with Romeo.... Romeo in his walking socks

Next, using embroidery thread/yarn (I used embroidery thread here) and knotting leaving a 4” tail as
before, embroider a large ‘V’ for the nose. I mark out the triangular outline of the pins with the thread,
then using satin stitch work horizontal lines taking in the outline I have made. Continuing to remove
your pins as you work, make a small vertical line down from the nose followed by a gentle curve each
side to form the mouth (as photograph above)
Finally, tie tail ends together securely at the base of the head when complete. Cover the open area
with a small amount of stuffing and close the seam leaving one yarn end to attach head to body.
Check that the ears are positioned correctly, creating a gentle ‘C’ shaped curve inwards. Secure ears
in place by slip (whip) stitching .
Now add a little more stuffing in the shoulder areas of body if needed then gather the neck opening.
Attach head to body securely with slip (whip) stitches working in a small circle (the head will ‘nod’
from side to side) Tip: Anchor the head to the body temporarily by inserting long darning/ doll needles down through
head and body before stitching ensuring all are removed afterwards.
Baby Bear Arms 3.25mm Needles (Make 2)
Cast on 9 sts in A beg at shoulder
P 1 row
Next row: K1, (M1, K1) to end - 17sts
P 1 row
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Next row: K4, (M1, K2) twice, M1, K1, M1, (K2, M1) twice, K4 – 23 sts
St-st 37 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K1, (K2tog) to end - 12 sts
Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches and secure leaving a long yarn end for seam closure

Secure strap with wooden button Baby Bear Walking Boots

To Make Up
Gather up cast on edge at top of arm then close arm seam using cast on/cast off yarn ends and leaving
an opening approx 2.5cm (1") down from top for stuffing. Stuff firmly creating a gentle curve
inwards, close seam and press lightly under a cloth if needed (seam lies on inside of arm) Next, pass a
long strand of yarn from one arm through the body to the other side and pull slightly and secure. This
will produce a shoulder socket. Using the same yarn, attach the second arm and pass yarn through the
body in the opposite direction. Repeat this process several times until both arms are securely in place
using an extra long strand of yarn if needed. Fasten off after making several securing stitches

♥ Baby Bear Breeches 3mm Needles (1 piece) Finished L12cm/ W19cm (at widest point)
Ist leg * Cast on 33sts in C beg at inside of leg hem.
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St-st 5 rows beg with a K row.
K 1 row (WS) to mark hem edge
St-st 5 rows beg with a K row.
Next row: (Ktbl) to end (WS)
Next row: K1, (kfb) to end – 65sts (RS)
St-st 10 rows beg with a P row
Next : Continuing in St-st dec 1 st each end of following 5 rows beg WS – 55sts**
Break yarn leaving stitches on a spare needle / stitch holder
2nd leg
Work from *to **
Next: Join both legs as follows...
With RS facing place both leg pieces on working needle then K across both legs and at the
same time K2tog at centre of row where legs join – 109sts
St-st 17 rows beg with a P row
Next row: K1, (K2tog) to end – 55sts
G-st 3 rows beg WS for waistband
Cast off (RS) then check waistband size around abdomen and adjust cast off tension if too loose/tight
- correct cast off tension makes quite a difference.

To Make Up
Press piece lightly under a cotton/linen cloth avoiding hems/waistband. Turn up hems using cast on
yarn ends and slip (whip) stitch in place on WS. Close decrease edges at centre front to form crotch
(these were the 5 decrease rows at ends of leg pieces ) using backstitch (WS) Now close centre back
seam including decrease edges using mattress stitch and leg seams joining front to back. Press lightly
avoiding hems/waistband.
♥ Braces 3mm Needles (Make 2)
Cast on 50sts in C (yarn end will be used to attach braces on WS of reverse side of breeches)
G-st 5 rows
Cast off and fasten off yarn end (RS)
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Attach each strap and button at front of breeches (put breeches on to position straps) securing on WS
of waistband. Take the straps over to reverse side and cross over (see P.10) then secure on WS of
waistband at chosen length (if knitting jumper you may want to secure on reverse side later)
♥ Hearts & Kisses Jumper 3mm Needles (Finished L9cm/ W13cm/ Sleeve 6cm )
Front (If you prefer a plain jumper then knit the back x 2)
Cast on 39 sts in B beg at lower edge (leaving a yarn end to sew up side seam later)
G-st 3 rows
Next: Working in St-st and following 13 rows of panel as diagram below begin at row 1* in C
(remembering every odd row is a K row (RS) and every even row is a P row (WS))
(Tip: Carry yarns not in use up side of work wherever possible if 4 rows or less between colour
change when on same side)
♥ ’Hearts and Kisses Panel’
Panel’

Beg at row 1* working in C which is a K row

Next: St-st rows 14 - 30 in B beg with a P row at the same time marking each end of row 14 for
sleeve placement later.
Shape Shoulders:
*Cast off 9 sts at beginning of next 2 rows - 21sts.
Next: Work 2 rows in K1, P1 rib and at the same time inc 1 st at each end of both rows - 25sts.
Next: Work a further 8 rows cont in single rib pattern
Cast off LOOSELY in single rib pattern ** (Use a larger needle if you find this difficult)

Gorgeously soft and shabby.... Hearts and kisses for Romeo

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Back 3mm Needles
Cast on 39sts in B leaving a yarn end for seam closure
G-st 3 rows
St-st 30 rows beg with a K row (RS) marking each end of row 14 for sleeve placement
Next: Work as front from * to ** ( P.11)
To Make Up
Weave yarn ends in on WS. Press pieces lightly under a cloth and join shoulder seams front to back
using mattress stitch then slip (whip) stitch neck seams together (remembering neck will be rolled
over) Close the neck seams once jumper is in place if you think that your cast off tension may be on
the tighter side. Fasten off ends and press shoulder seams lightly.
Sleeves 3mm Needles (Make 2)
With RS facing and using B pick up 32sts evenly across back and front between markers.
(A Knitting Tip: When picking up sts along a row start first with a slip knot on R needle to anchor
the yarn before you begin and now pick up the 32 stitches as normal. Drop off the slip knot again
when you reach the end of first P row detailed next - don't include slip knot in count!)
St-st 16 rows beg with a P row
Next row: P 1 row as follows 1A, 1B to end (WS)
Next row: K 1 row as follows 1A, 1C to end (RS)
Next row: P 1 row in C (WS)
Change to B
G-st 4 rows beg RS
Cast off leaving yarn end to close seam. Now repeat for opposite side.
To Make Up
Weave yarn ends in on WS. Press lightly under a cloth on WS avoiding rib and garter stitch edges,
Close sleeve and side seams using mattress stitch then fasten off. Press lightly to finish (Tip: Thread
shirring elastic of corresponding colour through neck edge on WS if you would prefer a more stretchy
style edging)
♥
Position jumper, breeches and walking boots
then find somewhere warm and cosy for Romeo to sit.
He's never happier than when in the company of good friends!

♥ ♥ ♥
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Other characters in the

Mary Jane’s TEAROOM Series

Oscar Rabbit
Primrose Rabbit
Bluebell Rabbit
Daisy Rabbit
Bo Rabbit
Anika Rabbit
Candy Bear
Tearoom Mice
Cornish Mice
Lily Bunny
Samuel Bunny

Thank you so much for your custom

from

Romeo ♥
and all his friends at

Mary Jane’s TEAROOM

Contact details: [email protected]
Website: maryjanestearoom.com

♥♥♥

Copyright © 2012 Mary Jane’s TEAROOM ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Protected by U.K copyright laws worldwide
This pattern is for personal use only and must not be sold on or reproduced in any way
including for translation or free downloads