Module 5:

ARTS IN CLOTHING
AND FASHION
DESIGN
Introduction
A beginner may find herself awkward in choosing the right dress design for her personality but
with some practice, she develops the sensitivity for it which later on becomes a habit.

One’s choice of dress design will show whether he has good taste or not. There are many
teenagers who go for designs that are gaudy or elaborate in their effort to become attractive.
Little do they know that in most cases what counts most is the appropriateness of the design to
the wearer’s personality. Thus, the question – “does it become you?’

Designs of good taste utilize certain elements beautifully arranged to achieve harmony, balance,
proportion, emphasis and rhythm in the over-all theme.

Course Objectives
At the end of this module, the students will be able to:

1. Describe the art of being well-dressed;

2. Identify the elements of design and describe their use;
3. Explain the principles of design and their application in a particular dress;
4. Discuss how to use accessories to improve dress appearance;
5. Point out the styles of dress that will best fit different figure types; and
6. Explain the basics of textile recycling.

Dressing Well is an Art

Dress designing is an art which takes into account the elements of design and leads to a total
effect that is beautiful and becoming to the user. You are well-dressed when you show good
taste in the design of your dress, when all the elements of what you wear, including
accessories, go well together and when your dress is appropriate for the occasion.

Artistry in dress design sometimes shows itself in fashion trends. Fashion cycles come and go,
and what is out of fashion at one time may be very fashionable at another. For example, fashion
sometimes favors short skirts and at other time dictate that women wear long skirts.

While you should not wear a dress that is out of fashion, it is not necessary to be continually
slavish to what is fashionable. What is important is to wear something good in taste and
appropriate to the occasion.

Good dress design must be suited to the unique qualities of the individual for whom the dress is
intended. It should enhance her best qualities, as well as hide her defects.

Elements of Dress Design

The elements of design combined to produce a pleasing effect are: lines, colors, textures,
forms, and shapes.

Lines
Lines may be vertical, horizontal, diagonal or curved. Vertical lines tend to produce an effect of
height and make a person appear taller and thinner. Horizontal lines emphasize width. Diagonal
lines may or may not create a feeling of height depending on the degree of slant. A long slant
tends to emphasize height, while a short slant emphasizes width.

Curved lines give an effect of roundness. Long, slightly curving lines tend to produce a feeling of
height.

Color
Colors tend to have an effect on size. Warm, bright colors such as red, yellow and orange tend
to emphasize large size. Dark colors such as blue or any other cool colors produce the opposite
effect, emphasizing small size. The lightness or darkness of color or color value influences the
apparent size of the figure. The lighter the color, the larger the figure seems to appear, the
darker the color, the slenderer the figure seems to look. Medium gray is best for larger figures.

The brightness or dullness of the color can also seem to add or decrease the size of the figure.
The brighter the color, the larger it looks; the more grayed the color, the smaller it seems.

The use of two colors in a tow piece dress cuts the figure and will make a person appear shorter
and wider. One color dress adds height.

Texture
Textures in fabrics are either smooth or rough, shiny or dull. In general, rough and stiff fabrics
should be worn by slim persons, since they tend to stay away from the body while smooth and
soft fabrics should be used by the average build, because they tend to cling and emphasize the
figure. Dull fabrics are becoming for stout persons, while shiny ones are becoming for tall and
thin figure types.

Forms and Shapes

Forms and shapes in dress designs come in the likes of pockets, collars, buttons and the other
trimmings.

Principles of Dress Designing and its Application

Balance
Balance is equal distribution of weight from a central point of area. It produces a feeling of rest.
A well-balanced garment is one which has its design weight equally distributed in both sides of
its center: front or back, above or below its waistline. When there is balance in the order of the
elements of design, a pleasing effect is established.

There are two types of balance: the formal or symmetrical balance and the informal or
symmetrical.

1. Formal Balance – A garment is said to be formally balanced when its design is alike on
both sides. For example, two pockets of the same color placed at the two sides of a skirt
each equally distant from the center.
2. Informal Balance – Dresses with off-center closing or trimmings represent informal
balance. A small decoration above the waistline may balance a larger decoration below
the waistline. Informal balance occurs when objects arranged on either side of a center
are equal in weight of attraction but not identical.

Proportion
Also known as the “Law of Relationship”, proportion means the relationship of one space to
another or to the whole. It should create a pleasing effect. An example of pleasing space
relationship is an odd number of buttons in a row, 7 or 5 or 3 which is more interesting than
equal distribution.

One should be in scale with the clothes and accessories he wears. For instance, a large
handbag may look well when carried by a large girl but ridiculous when carried by a small girl. A
large plaid sports shirt may appear just right on a tall girl but if a very small girl wears it, she may
appear weighted down.

Emphasis
Emphasis is the center of interest. One part is the most important or dominant and all other
parts are subordinate to it. The center of interest may be emphasized by using color contrast; by
placing decorations such as braids, flowers, or lace; or by using costume jewelry.

For example, if you want to focus the beholder’s attention to your face, the best position for
center of interest would be the neckline or front opening. It may be a decorative collar, an
unusual neckline, a row of attractive buttons, or a colorful scarf. To emphasize a waistline, an
unusual belt may be worn.

Rhythm
Rhythm is the continuous repetition of lines, colors, forms and shapes to create a pleasing
effect. It provides a transition from one part of the dress to another and leads the eye in a fluid
movement through the design.

It can be produced by repeating pleats, tucks, or colors; by gradual increase or decreases in

size; by transition from light to dark colors; by radiation – when there is a flow from a central
point as in gathers of a bodice or a circular yoke. There is rhythm when lines going in opposite
direction meet.

Harmony or Unity
Harmony is achieved when the elements of design are used to express a single idea or theme.
It is an agreeable combination of lines and shapes, making an integrated whole.

An example would be a pointed collar, a pointed pocket and a pointed belt. Another would be a
straight line predominating in the bodice of the dress as well as in the skirt to produce a single
effect.

Whatever decoration is placed on a garment should appear to be a needed part of the garment,
not something added as an afterthought.

How to Use Accessories to Improve Dress Appearance

In selecting accessories, get your ideas from persons who have good taste, from store displays,
or from fashion magazines.

Be clear about which dress you want to enhance through an accessory. And make sure that the
accessory is becoming to you – attractive without being too loud, distinctive without being too
distracting.

In improving the appearance of a dress, the usual technique is matching colors. A blue dress is
enhanced with blue shoes, bags, belts and scarves. However, matching colors can be
monotonous. You may want, to do the opposite, which is to contrast colors. Hence, in improving
the appearance of the blue dress you might want to consider light orange belt or scarf.

You should also learn to mix and match clothes and accessories. For example, you might mix a
checkered black and white blouse with a plain white skirt. Or you might want to match beige
cullotes with a yellow and brown striped blouse. You could also add a belt tied like a sash to
highlight a simple white with a horizontal striped shirt. Scarves can also be used to enhance the
neckline of a plain jacket and to improve the appearance of a plain dress, you can use a small
checkered vest.

The main point to keep in mind when you mix and match is that you should be able to project
your best features through clothes that flatter your physique, but projection should be handled
with restraint.

On the other hand, if your purpose is to save money, you should buy accessories like shoes,
bags, belts with neutral colors such as beige, brown or black so that you can wear them with
different dresses.

Figure Analysis
Young girls are figure conscious. They are bothered by such figure problems as being too short
or too plump; being too tall or too thin. These problems can be resolved by using appropriate
designs in dresses.

What to Use and What to Avoid in Selecting Designs for Specific Types

Figure Type Use Avoid

For the average girl Almost any type of dress the Clothes that fit too properly
styles of the day
For the tall and  Fabrics with figures,  Transparent Fabrics
slender figure plaids or crosswise stripes  Knitted Fabrics
 Blouse and skirt that  Straight vertical lines which
contrast in color lead the eye up and down
 Horizontal and curve lines and to slenderize
(this makes the figure  Closely filled sleeves
appear wider)  Pointed collars
 Loose clothing  Long narrow skirts
 Puffed sleeves, yokes,  Soft and closely fitted
capes, padded shoulder garments that clung to
and other trimmings to figure
add width to her shoulders
and fullness to the bust
 Short rounded collars with
frills skirt that is flared,
pleated or gathered
 Wide contrasting belts,
patch pockets, bolero
jacket, a little below the
waistline
 Still materials that stand
 out of figure
For the tall and stout  Clothes with straight lines  Clothes with curved patch
figure in collars, pocket belts or pockets
yokes  Wide belts
 Well-fitted clothes  Stiff, shiny or transparent
 Plain and gored skirts with fabrics
few pleats stitched below
hipline
 Tailored dresses,
buttoned to give the
desired slimness
 Sleeves that are simple
and well-fitted, slanting
set-in pockets
 Narrow belts of the same
material as the dress
 Materials that are smooth
in texture (soft, smooth
not shiny fabrics)
For the short, slender  Soft curving transitional  Angular unbroken straight
figure lines that lead to the eye lines
 Non-transparent fabrics of  Transparent fabrics and
medium weight large figured fabrics
 Double-breasted full-  Knitted garments
length dress  Contrasting bodice or skirt
 Moderately narrow lapels or shorts and pants
with rounded ends
 Princess cut styles of
dress to add height
 Narrow belt of the same
materials as the dress
 Shirts that are slightly
flared
For the short and  Lines leading the eyes  Bulky fabrics
stout figure vertically  Lines leading the eye
 Fabrics which are plain or horizontally
have vertical stripes of  Plaids and crosswise
medium width stripes
 Soft, smooth, not too  Large and conspicuous
shiny fabrics designs
 Narrow belts  Contrasting blouse and
skirt, belt or sweater
 Knitted garments double
breasted dress yokes, big
patch pockets

The Basics of Textile Recycling

(According to Rick Leblanc)

What Is Textile Recycling?

Textile recycling is the process by which old clothing and other textiles are recovered for reuse
or material recovery. It is the basis for the textile recycling industry. The necessary steps in the
textile recycling process involve the donation, collection, sorting and processing of textiles, and
then subsequent transportation to end users of used garments, rags or other recovered
materials.

The basis for the growing textile recycling industry is, of course, the textile industry itself. The
textile industry has evolved into a nearly $1 trillion industry globally, comprising clothing, as well
as furniture and mattress material, linens, draperies, cleaning materials, leisure equipment, and
many other items.

The Urgency to Recycle Textiles

The importance of recycling textiles is increasingly being recognized. An estimated 100 billion
garments are produced annually, worldwide. According to U.S. EPA, around 17 million tons of
textile municipal solid waste (MSW) was generated in 2018, about 5.8% of total MSW
generation. The recycling rate for textiles derived from clothing and footwear was 13.0%, while
the recovery for sheets and pillowcases was 15.8% for the same year.

As such, textile recycling is a significant challenge to be addressed as we strive to move closer

to a zero-landfill society.

Once in landfills, natural fibers can take a few weeks to a few years to decompose. They may
release methane and CO2 gas into the atmosphere. Additionally, synthetic textiles are designed
not to decompose. In the landfill, they may release toxic substances into groundwater and
surrounding soil.

Textile recycling offers the following environmental benefits:

 Decreases landfill space requirements, bearing in mind that synthetic fiber products do
not decompose and that natural fibers may release greenhouse gasses
 Avoided use of virgin fibers
 Reduced consumption of energy and water
 Pollution avoidance
 Lessened demand for dyes.

Sources of Textiles for Recycling

Textiles for recycling are generated from two primary sources. These sources include:

1. Post-consumer, including garments, vehicle upholstery, household items and others.

2. Pre-consumer, including scrap created as a by-product from yarn and fabric
manufacture, as well as the post-industrial scrap textiles from other industries.
The donation of old garments is supported by non-profit as well as many corporate programs,
including those of Nike and Patagonia.

Wearable and Reused Textiles

In the European Union, about 50% of collected textiles are recycled and about 50% are reused.
Approximately 35% of donated clothes are turned into industrial rags. Most of the reused
clothing is exported to other countries.

Oxam, a British charitable organization, estimates 70% of their clothing donations end up in
Africa. The issue of sending used clothing to Africa has generated some degree of controversy
as to the benefits of such initiatives, where it can have an adverse impact on local textile
industries, native dress, and local waste generation.

How Clothing Recycling Works

Collection
Clothing recyclers use a variety of strategies for picking up clothing. Post-consumer clothing is
picked up generally from bins placed in public places, as well as from clothing drives and door-
to-door collection. Bins are typically placed strategically in public places like parking lots in
business centers and shopping malls. Colorful bins are positioned in high traffic, high visibility
locations to help maximize donations.

Clothing sorting
Once collected, clothing is classified into three groups: reuse, rags, and fiber. Typically, this is a
manual sorting process that requires expertise in identifying various types of material. The
process can be aided by such mechanical systems as conveyor belts and bins to segregate
various grades of material.

Recyclers report that about one-half of donated garments can be reused. Some recyclers bale
this clothing for export to developing countries, while some garments are used domestically for
sale in thrift shops. Industrial cloth rags and wipes are another important residuals of the
recycling process. Additionally, clothing may be reduced to fibrous material.

Processing
Textile fabric and clothing commonly consist of composites of synthetic plastics and cotton
(biodegradable material). The composition will influence its method of recycling and durability.

Collected clothing is sorted and graded by highly experienced and skilled workers. These sorted
items are sent to different destinations as outlined.

For natural textiles, incoming items are sorted in terms of color and material. By segregating
colors, the need for re-dying can be eliminated, reducing the need for pollutants and energy.
Then the clothing is torn into sloppy fibers and combined with other chosen fibers, conditional
on the planned end use of the recycled fiber. Once cleaned and spun, fibers can be
compressed for use in mattress production. Textiles which are sent to the flocking industry are
used to produce filling material for furniture padding, panel linings, loudspeaker cones, and car
insulation.

The recycling process works somewhat differently for polyester-based materials. In this case,
the first thing is to remove zippers and buttons and then to cut the clothing into smaller pieces.
Those shredded small fabrics are then granulated and shaped into pellets.

Steps to Combat Textile Waste

(According to Olivia Youngs)

Consume Less
With a “Less but better” mindset, you can shift from buying clothes you don’t really need that
aren’t made to last to buying “investment pieces” that are made to last for years to come and,
hopefully, won’t need to be disposed of.

Resell/Gift
When a piece has plenty of wear left but may not fit your body or style anymore, you can sell it
or gift it to someone else. Host a clothing swap with friends or sell them with resell platforms.

Upcycle
For pieces that are towards the end of their life or you don’t feel could be resold, upcycle them
into new-to-you products that you can use around the house. Cut up old t-shirts to use as
cleaning rags, headbands, and more. Or, you can transform old clothing into completely new
clothing if you have the creative skills for it.

Donate
Before you drop off a load of unsorted belongings, consider these points:

 Is this a piece someone else could actually use? (it’s not stained/ripped/hanging on by a
thread/broken)
 Does this shop/organization need donations of this kind right now?

Recycle
Once a garment has reached the definite end of its lifespan, chances are there are ways it can
be recycled into something completely new. Not only does recycling keep clothing out of landfill,
but it reduces the need for new, virgin fabrics which can be costly and not-so-eco-friendly to
produce.