COLORED GEMSTONES

A triumph of nature
THE FASCINATING WORLD OF PRECIOUS STONES

Colored gemstones have exerted a magical attraction on humankind since the dawn of
time. They decorate crowned heads and cult objects; they are guarded like treasures,
bartered or presented as signs of respect and affection. The mysterious power exuded
by precious stones lies in their singular ability to reflect and absorb light. And they
do so with inexhaustible variety: from the fiery red of the ruby to the mystical
shimmer of the opal.

In this brochure, we open up to you a wonderful new world: the world of colored
gemstones. You will be introduced to the central concepts in gemstone theory and
learn about the gemological characteristics of your favorite stones.

We wish you pleasant reading as you embark upon your voyage of discovery through
the fascinating and scintillating world of precious stones.

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 Highly treasured masterpieces
The luxurious cocktail rings
are sparkling proof of the craftsmanship
nurtured and perfected in
Bucherer’s workshops

2
CONTENTS

A definition of gemstones
6
Valuing stones
7
Quality criteria
9
Your guarantee from Bucherer
14
Ruby
16
Sapphire
17
Emerald
19
Aquamarine
20
Beryl
21
Tourmaline
22
The world’s treasure-troves
23
Tanzanite
26
Peridot
27
Garnet
28
Amethyst
31
Citrine
32
Chrysoberyl
33
Alexandrite
34
Topaz
35
Spinel
37
From mine to jewel
38
Craftsmanship at the highest level
41
Gemstone treatment codes
43

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A DEFINITION OF GEMSTONES

Gemstones have been known since about 8000 B.C. Today, the word describes a very
rare, homogeneous mineral, naturally occurring as part of the earth’s crust.

Unfortunately, the term “semiprecious stone” still stubbornly persists in the trade,
although its slightly derogatory connotations should forbid its use. At one time,
less hard stones were referred to as semiprecious stones, but today we refer to them
as gemstones.

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VALUING STONES

Essentially, the value of a colored gemstone is determined by its rarity, its durability
and, above all, its beauty. Beauty in particular is a criterion that is diffi cult to assess
objectively. It is also one of the reasons why gemstones, unlike diamonds, are not
methodically classified in any other terms than weight.

Putting a value on a colored gemstone is a matter of experience. Our qualified gemolo-

gists examine every single stone using five quality criteria: color, weight, cut, rarity
and transparency. Even the smallest nuances within a particular category can have a
crucial effect on a stone’s price.

The purchase of a gemstone is a question of ethics and trust. Our specialists draw on
enormous expertise and a reliable feel for gemstones. Thanks to an international
network, direct procurement and outstanding connections on the world markets, we
are able to guarantee impeccable quality when purchasing gemstones.

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Cage by Bucherer
QUALITY CRITERIA

COLOR
The most important factor in assessing the value of a colored gemstone is the quality
of the actual color. The expert evaluates the basic color, the tone, the intensity and
distribution as well as the change and interplay of colors.

The color of a gemstone is determined by its chemical composition and /or crystalline
structure. If minuscule particles of trace elements become trapped inside the crystal
structure during its formation, the result is color. Irregularities in crystal growth can
also be a cause. Selective filtering of light penetrating the crystal only permits those
parts of the spectrum to leave it that our eyes perceive as the stone’s color.

The variety of colors is so enormous that no exact terms exist for every individual tone:
the closest we can come is as exact a description as possible. A good example is the
multi-colored tourmaline family. In its natural state, it is found in over 1000 diff erent
color varieties, tones and combinations.

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WEIGHT
Weight is the one quantifiable factor in the evaluation of colored gemstones. It is
expressed in carats, a unit of weight for gemstones that has existed since ancient times.

HARDNESS
At one time, hardness was one of the few methods that could be used to identify
gemstones reliably, because a gemstone that is harder than another kind of stone is
able to leave a scratch on it. The hardness scale runs from 1 to 10. With a hardness
of 10, diamond is not only the hardest gemstone but also the hardest naturally occur-
ring substance on earth. Corundum (sapphire and ruby) has a hardness of 9 and is
the hardest colored gemstone.

Marquise or
Cabochon

Briolette
Cushion

Navette
Round

Heart

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CUT AND FORM
Gemstone cutting is an art in its own right. Only when a gemstone has been correctly
cut does it sparkle in all its full and consummate beauty. When deciding the type and
form of the cut, the gemstone cutter’s main priority is the structure of the rough stones.
For the shape of the uncut gemstone will determine its fi nal form after cutting and
polishing.

On a clear, flawless stone, correct arrangement of the facets guarantees optimum brilli-
ance. Opaque stones with lots of inclusions are commonly cut as dome-shaped cabo-
chons to show off their color to its best advantage. But special refl ectance effects such as
chatoyancy (cat’s eye), asterism in the star sapphire, or opalescence, found in moon-
stones and milky quartz, are also at their best in the cabochon cut.
Drop or Pear

Trillant or
Baguette

Emerald
Princess

Triangle

Oval

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 Natural spinel from Vietnam
with parallel, rod-like inclusions
and tension fields, 50x magnification

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TRANSPARENCY
Generally speaking, the purer and more transparent the gemstone, the greater its value.
However, there are times when special kinds of inclusions can turn a gemstone – literally –
into a star.

In much-coveted star rubies and star sapphires, for example, needle-like inclusions
form a six-rayed star that appears to hover elegantly at the surface. At the same time,
inclusions are unmistakable signs that a colored gemstone is genuine and enhance its
individual charm.

Inclusions can also assume the function of a fingerprint. Apart from a gemstone’s
provenance, they also tell us much about the way in which it was created. Some of
Nature’s miracles, such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, spinels and garnets, were
formed by a process of metamorphosis. Rock in the earth’s crust was exposed to such
enormous pressures and high temperatures that the chemical elements released in
the process crystallized in the form of minerals and gemstones.

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YOUR GUARANTEE FROM BUCHERER

In order to guarantee the quality and authenticity of your colored gemstone, our buyers
cultivate close contacts worldwide with the trade’s most trusted suppliers. Bearing in
mind the fair trade rules that apply to gemstone trading, they seek out the most beautiful
stones – usually on the spot – and buy them direct, thus eliminating intermediaries.

Fine gemstones are rare, the demand for them all the greater. With the practiced eye of
the connoisseur, our experts can distinguish a special stone from an unusual one.
Thanks to many years of experience, familiarity with the markets and an instinctive feel
for the extraordinary, Bucherer is able to offer its customers only top-quality stones.

When buying stones, implicit trust and ethics play a vital role. We take our lead from
the guidelines issued by the CIBJO (Confédération Internationale de la Bijouterie,
Joaillerie et Orfèvrerie, des Diamants, Perles et Pierres) and apply them in accordance
with the ethical code of the watch and jewelry industry.

After their long journey back to Switzerland, the gemstones are subject to another
intensive examination by the experts in our gemological laboratory. As part of their
demanding job, they identify stones and their provenance, and assess their quality
and value. Working closely with some of the world’s leading independent gemological
laboratories, we are able to evaluate any stone precisely and reliably.

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Our gemologists continuously upgrade their professional skills in order to remain up
to speed on the latest methods of enhancing gemstones and increasing their value.
Bucherer is the first Swiss jeweler to use the full disclosure principle with its gemstones.
This means that every Bucherer customer benefits from an information policy based
on total transparency regarding our gemstones and the methods used to enhance their
appearance. Apart from being designated a name, every newly purchased gemstone is
assigned a declaration code, which is clearly set out and easy to understand. Th is can be
found on page 43.

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RUBY

The ruby (from the Latin for red) is the most precious of the gemstones and a symbol of
passion and love. Its fiery brilliance radiates life and strength. Extremely rare examples
of more than five carats are even more precious than colorless diamonds of the same
size. Rubies are best in the evening or at night because artifi cial light endows them with
a rich red glow.

The most valuable rubies come from the Mogok Valley in Myanmar and have a clear,
purple radiance. The most sought-after of these rubies is pigeon blood red, a deep
crimson with bluish reflections. Glowing red rubies, often with a touch of lilac or brown,
come from Thailand, while those found in Sri Lanka tend to be pale red or even pastel
tones. Rubies in every shade of red, some of them opaque, are found in East Africa.
Sometimes rubies have gently shimmering reflectance effects with a silverish gleam.
The silk, as it is known, is caused by delicate, needle-like rutile inclusions.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Corundum Aluminum oxide with in- Red in various tones Myanmar, Thailand,
Hardness: 9 clusions of other elements. Cambodia, Vietnam,
The characteristic ruby red Sri Lanka, Tanzania,
comes from trace elements Kenya, Mozambique
of chrome

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SAPPHIRE

Originally, all blue gemstones were referred to as sapphires (Greek sappheiros, blue stone).
As we now know, sapphires come in many different colors of the rainbow. However,
only the blue stones are now referred to as sapphires; all the others are also described by
their color. The most precious sapphires from Sri Lanka and Madagascar are a scintilla-
tingly pure pale blue. Even rarer and consequently much more coveted are the sapphires
from Kashmir and Myanmar, while those from Thailand and Australia command slight-
ly lower prices. An absolute rarity is the paparadja, an intensive orange sapphire with a
salmon-pink overtone.

A mysterious phenomenon encountered most frequently in sapphires from Sri Lanka

and Myanmar is known as asterism. In exquisite, cabochon-cut sapphires, needle-like
rutile inclusions produce a wonderful six-rayed star. The largest cut stone of its kind,
the Star of India, which weighs 536 carats, can be viewed in all its splendor at New
York’s American Museum of Natural History.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Corundum Aluminum oxide with in- Blue in various tones, Sri Lanka, Thailand,
Hardness: 9 clusions of other elements. colorless, pink, orange, Cambodia, Myanmar,
The blue of the sapphire yellow, green, violet, Australia, USA
comes from trace elements black (Montana), Madagas-
of titanium and iron car, Tanzania and,
rarely today, Kashmir

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EMERALD

The name emerald is Persian in origin and means “green stone”. Cleopatra would bestow
emeralds from her private mine in the Aswan Valley as a token of esteem. One of the
recipients was Julius Caesar, who preferred the green gemstone to all others on account
of its medicinal properties.

GREEN GOLD FROM AMERICA

Only when the Spanish plundered the riches of the Incas and Aztecs, among them stones
of extraordinary size and beauty, did the emerald begin to appear more frequently in
Europe. The Inca priests never disclosed the precise location of their emerald mines, with
the result that the world’s richest reserves, in Colombia, remained undiscovered until
the 19th century. And to this day, the most valuable emeralds continue to come from Co-
lombia. Green in color, they have a bluish tinge with fi ne inclusions that are known
in emeralds as the “jardin” (French, garden). In earlier times, huge emeralds were also
found in India.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Beryl Aluminum beryllium silicate. Green, bluish green, Colombia, Brazil,

Hardness: 7.5 – 7.75 The green color comes from yellowish green Afghanistan, India,
trace elements of chrome, Pakistan, Zambia,
but sometimes also from Zimbabwe, Madagas-
vanadium car, Urals

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AQUAMARINE

The name aquamarine means “water of the sea”. Th e stone mirrors the colors of the
ocean: a delicate pale blue, vibrant deep blue or pale turquoise. Highly transparent,
it is a wonderful adornment, worn casually or chic, at any time of the day or night.

The most coveted color for aquamarines is pure, pale blue. This clear, translucent color
is found in stones from Brazil and Mozambique. The various intensities of color are
referred to by names such as Santa Maria. Th is term stands for the color typical of aqua-
marines found in the now exhausted Santa Maria mine in Brazil. Other aquamarine
deposits are found in Africa. The pale blue of these gemstones has a metallic shimmer
with various gray reflections.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Beryl Aluminum beryllium silicate. Pale to dark blue, Brazil, Madagascar,

Hardness: 7.5 – 7.75 The blue color comes from blue-green Nigeria, Mozambique,
trace elements of iron Zimbabwe, Namibia,
Pakistan

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BERYL

The sparkle of emeralds is an intense green, aquamarines twinkle in a wide range of blue
tones, while the delicate pink of the morganite enchants women the world over. But
how many people know that this wealth of beautiful stones belong to the same family of
gemstones? Emeralds, aquamarines and morganites are all beryls, just like the gold
beryl, the green, the red and the colorless beryl. Their chemical and physical properties
are essentially the same, but their colors could not be more different.

The name “beryl” originates from India. It derives from the Sanskrit “veruliyam”. In the
Middle Ages, the Latin word “berillus” was a generic term for all clear crystals, and was
also used to describe eyeglasses.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Beryl Aluminum beryllium silicate. Gold-yellow, Brazil, Madagascar,

Hardness: 7.5 – 8.0 The color comes from the yellow-green, yellow, Mozambique, Namibia,
trace elements vanadium, pink, red, colorless Zimbabwe, Nigeria,
iron or manganese USA, Sri Lanka

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TOURMALINE

The tourmaline’s range of colors is unique and includes just about every imaginable
nuance. A single stone can contain several different tones, generating the most unex-
pected effects. Earlier, every different color version of tourmaline had its own special
name. But today, for the sake of simplicity, we use only the term tourmaline combined
with the appropriate color.

TREASURE-TROVES OF THE TOURMALINE

The biggest reserves are found in Brazil. Red, green or blue tourmalines come from
Namibia, Afghanistan or Sri Lanka. The tourmalines mined in Zambia and Zimbabwe
are predominantly green while those found in Madagascar and Mozambique tend to
be multicolored.

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 2 MONTANA, USA

USA 8 | 9 | 11 | 15

9 MALI
11 | 12 GUATEMALA

4 | 8 | 15 NIGERIA

3 COLOMBIA

BRAZIL 3 | 4 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 15

BOLIVIA 11 | 12

3|4|8|

4 | 8 | 9 | 15 NAMIB

URUGUAY 11

THE WORLD’S
TREASURE-TROVES
 RUSSIA 3 | 6 | 7 | 9 | 10 | 13

9 CZECH REPUBLIC

CHINA 14
KASHMIR 2
AFGHANISTAN 3 | 8
PAKISTAN 3 | 4 | 10 | 14

INDIA 3 | 8 | 9 MYANMAR 1 | 2 | 6 | 13

VIETNAM 1 | 2 | 13

THAILAND 1 | 2

SRI LANKA 1 | 2 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 13

KENYA 1 | 9

TANZANIA 1 | 2 | 5 | 8 | 13

MOZAMBIQUE 1 | 4 | 8
ZAMBIA 3 | 8 | 11

15 ZIMBABWE
MADAGASCAR 2 | 3 | 4 | 8 | 13 | 15
BIA
AUSTRALIA 2 | 9
SOUTH AFRICA 8 | 9

1 RUBY 6 CHRYSOBERYL 11 AMETHYST

2 SAPPHIRE 7 ALEXANDRITE 12 CITRINE

3 EMERALD 8 TOURMALINE 13 SPINEL

4 AQUAMARINE 9 GARNET 14 PERIDOT

5 TANZANITE 10 IMPERIAL TOPAZ 15 BERYL

THE MUCH-COVETED PARAIBA TOURMALINE
In 1987, the world of gemstones experienced a genuine sensation: for it was then that
the Paraiba tourmaline was discovered in Brazil. Anyone who has ever seen its elec-
trifying color will never forget it. Today, they are among the most sought-after rare gem-
stones. Typically, the numerous beautiful colors of the tourmaline are caused by the
presence of iron, manganese, chrome or vanadium. In the case of the Paraiba tourmaline,
however, we have to look elsewhere. It magnificent color is due to the presence of
copper. The interplay of copper and manganese releases a riot of enchantingly beautiful
colors. Emerald green, turquoise to sky-blue, sapphire blue, indigo and blue-violet
to purple.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Tourmaline Boron aluminum silicate Colorless, pink, red, Brazil, Afghanistan, Sri
Hardness: 7.0 – 7.5 in complex, changing yellow, brown, green, Lanka, USA, Zambia,
compositions, various blue, violet, black, Nigeria, Mozambique,
trace elements responsible multi-colored Zimbabwe, Namibia,
for color Madagascar, Tanzania

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TANZANITE

The discovery of the first tanzanite in 1967 immediately attracted the attention of the
jewelry industry. No wonder: for it is the only gemstone whose color can be compared
to that of a sapphire.

One of the reasons why this stone is valued so highly is that, to this day, only one area in
the world is known to have tanzanite deposits, and that is at the foot of Kilimanjaro in
the north of Tanzania. In the late 1980s, it was there too that the extremely rare green
variety was discovered, a stone that owes its unusual color to the presence of chromium.
Tanzanite, also known as zoisite, is very popular in the USA, Japan and Germany.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Zoisite Calcium aluminum silicate. Sapphire blue, Tanzania

Hardness: 6.5 – 7.0 The blue color is due to the amethyst violet
stone’s vanadium content

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PERIDOT

In 1749 extraterrestrial peridots fell to earth in the Krasnojarsk meteorite. For the time,
it was a new and curious phenomenon. However, these peridots were as little suited
for use in jewelry as the millions of tiny crystals that are found in the lava flow of the
Mauna Loa volcano.

Indeed, peridots owe their existence to volcanic activity. The most valuable examples
are found today in Myanmar and Pakistan. Its fresh, grass-green color has made it a
very popular gemstone. Extremely rare varieties include the cat’s eye peridot and the
four-rayed star peridot.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Olivine Magnesium iron silicate. The Yellow-green, olive Myanmar, Pakistan,

Hardness: 6.5 – 7.0 trace element that gives the green, brownish USA (Arizona,
stone its color is iron Hawaii), China

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GARNET

Garnet is the name given to the members of a complex mineral group that appears in
many different colors and has as many different names. The best known of them all
is the fire-colored garnet. We shall restrict ourselves here to the red and green species
of garnet.

PYROPE, ALMANDINE AND RHODOLITE

The pyrope has a fiery red glow and because of its brownish nuances was a gemstone
much in demand in the 18th and 19th centuries. Almandine is dark red in color with
a delicate tinge of violet. It takes its name from Alabanda, an ancient city in Asia Minor
famed for cutting gemstones. The rhodolite is a mixed crystal consisting of almandine
and pyrope, and is velvety red in color with delicate raspberry-red undertones.

FIERY SPESSARTITE GARNET

The first mandarin garnets were found in 1991 in northeastern Namibia, one of the few
untouched regions of the earth. The deep red orange of the rare spessartite garnet
variety is reminiscent of the warm glow in the evening sky when the sun has already
disappeared beneath the horizon.

GREEN VARIETIES
Not without reason did ancient legends claim that a garnet was a diffi cult stone to con-
ceal. Its sparkling light can be seen even through clothing. The reason for its extra-
ordinary brilliance lies in the high refractive index of garnets. This is also the property
that makes the green varieties sparkle. In its natural state, the grossular – a calcium-
aluminum species of the garnet group – has fine yellow, green, brown or earthy-colored
tones. The tsavolite, one of the most beautiful of the grossulars, is a young gemstone
with a very old geological history. It originates from the bushland of east Africa on the
border between Kenya and Tanzania. The mineral was formed tens of millions of years
ago. It was first discovered in 1967 and given the name tsavolite in honor of the Tsave
National Park and the Tsavo River running through an area rich in wildlife. Th e stone
comes in a spectrum of colors ranging from delicate pale green and blue-green to a
bold dark green.

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DIAMOND-LIKE DEMANTOID
The star among the green garnets is the rare demantoid. Its name comes from the Dutch
and basically means “diamond-like”. Not without reason, because the demantoid is the
most precious of the garnets and one of the most valuable gemstones of them all. It is par-
ticularly remarkable for its unusually high dispersion; in other words, its ability to refract
light penetrating the facets into all the colors of the rainbow. The fabulous play of light
and colors demonstrated by the demantoid is even more impressive than the diamond.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Garnet Silicates in various Brown, red, violet, Myanmar, Pakistan,

Hardness: 7.0 – 7.5 combinations. orange, yellow, green, USA, various African
colorless, various countries, Russia,
mixed colors India, Sri Lanka,
Australia

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Cage by Bucherer
AMETHYST

Magical properties are ascribed to many gemstones, but the amethyst surpasses them
all. It is said to attract the favor of the goddess Fortuna, to hold out the promise of
beauty, prosperity and sweet dreams, and to fend off magic spells and evil thoughts.
Beyond this, it is supposed to bestow mental acumen, wisdom and dignity, to bring
good luck to those in love, and to prevent drunkenness. Hence its name: for in Greek
the word amethyst means “not intoxicated”.

The amethyst is the most valuable member of the quartz family. It comes in a wonderful
play of colors from pinkish violet and pale lilac tones all the way through to dark violet.
Fine, transparent examples are cut and polished as jewelry, while semi-transparent or
opaque amethysts are used for artistic purposes or engraved. A particularly interesting
gemstone is the ametrine. The bicolored crystal is a combination of amethyst and citrine.
On one side it has a violet hue, on the other yellow.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Quartz Silicon dioxide. The trace Violet, Brazil, Uruguay,

Hardness: 7 element that gives the stone pale reddish-violet Bolivia, Russia, USA,
its color is iron Madagascar, Namibia,
Zambia, India

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CITRINE

In about 1750, a gemstone cutter in Lisbon had a mishap: a pale yellow citrine fell into
the still glowing embers of a fire. When he had fished it out, he was not a little amazed
to see that the citrine had suddenly turned brownish red.

It was to this chance discovery that we owe a technique which allows us to infl uence the
color of citrines.

In their natural state citrines range from pale to lemon yellow. If they are heated, their
color turns from deep yellow to brown. The brownish red stones are called Madeira
citrines because of the color’s resemblance to the well-known wine. Not every citrine is
“born” as such. When an amethyst is artificially heated, it is transformed into a pale
to dark yellow – or even reddish brown – citrine. These stones are often known by other
names such as Bahia, gold or Rio Grande citrines.

Because of the similarities in color, the citrine is still, erroneously, called topaz today,
without ever approaching the value of the latter.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Quartz Silicon dioxide. The trace Pale to dark yellow, Brazil, Bolivia, Russia,
Hardness: 7 element that gives the stone golden brown Madagascar, USA
its color is iron

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CHRYSOBERYL

The sparkling honey-yellow to greenish brown chrysoberyl owes its prominence to two
rare varieties: the chrysoberyl cat’s eye and the alexandrite.

Master gemstone cutters and polishers take a semitransparent or opaque chrysoberyl

and magically transform it into a cat’s eye: a silvery sash of light appears to hover above
the surface of the gemstone, as if freed from its confines. The name of this phenomenon,
found in a number of gemstone types, is chatoyancy. The most precious of them all,
however, is the chrysoberyl cat’s eye.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Chrysoberyl Beryllium aluminate. Gold-yellow, Brazil, Sri Lanka,

Hardness: 8.5 The trace elements that give green-yellow Myanmar, Tanzania,
the stone its color are iron Zimbabwe, Madagas-
and chromium car, Russia

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ALEXANDRITE

The alexandrite is one of the rarest, most precious – and most fascinating – gemstones
of them all. It was named after Tsar Alexander II because it was reputedly discovered
in the Urals on the very day His Majesty came of age.

The alexandrite is particularly sought after because of its unusual ability to change color.
A delicate olive green shade in daylight, it changes dramatically to a deep raspberry
red with violet reflections in artificial light. This little piece of magic is due to the fact that
blue is the dominant color in sunlight while red is supreme in artificial light. In the
language of the trade, this play of colors is known as pleochroism.

Particularly fine alexandrites command high prices. However, buyers are well recom-
mended to check each stone’s ability to change its color. Th e alexandrite cat’s eye is
extremely rare and much sought after.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Chrysoberyl Beryllium aluminate. Green by daylight, red Russia (Urals),

Hardness: 8.5 The color and color change in artificial light Sri Lanka, Brazil,
are due to the presence of Tanzania, Zimbabwe
iron, chromium and traces
of vanadium

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TOPAZ

The topaz radiates all the colors of a midsummer sky: the delicate pink of sunrise, the
yellow and gold of the morning sun, and the azure blue of the aft ernoon sky. It is said to
soothe the nerves, to cultivate the power of logical thought and to prevent envy and
resentment. This is probably the reason why topaz is so often found in sacral treasures.

Since the blue topaz rarely occurs naturally today, it acquires its color artificially. Natural-
colored pink topazes are very rare. Stones in vivid yellow shades are found mainly near
Ouro Preto in Brazil and are particularly treasured.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Topaz Fluoride aluminum silicate. Colorless, yellow, Brazil, Russia,

Hardness: 8 The trace elements iron and orange, orangey pink, Tanzania, Nigeria,
chromium together with pink; very rarely lilac, Pakistan, Myanmar,
irregularities in the crystal red Sri Lanka
lattice are the reasons for its
delicate color tones

35
Pastello by Bucherer
SPINEL

In the Mogok Valley in Myanmar rubies have been hacked out of the sugar-white marble
since ancient times. Only in 1820 was it discovered that some of these so-called rubies
were actually spinels. Nevertheless, these gemstones are often referred to as rubies. One
particularly splendid example is the 361-carat Timur Ruby that is now found in a dia-
mond-set necklace belonging to the British Crown Jewels.

Although spinels are usually found in the same areas as ruby deposits, the amounts
mined are much smaller. In the past, they were only rarely found in the highly desirable
ruby red color. The discovery of a magnificent red spinel in Tanzania and newly found
deposits of spinels in pastel shades in Vietnam have led to the stone’s renaissance. In the
past ten years, it has become increasingly well known and today, spinels are as esteemed
and valuable as rubies, sapphires and emeralds.

Mogok spinels have an octahedral – double pyramid – crystal form. The inhabitants of
Myanmar often set the superb red stones uncut in their jewelry.

MINERAL GROUP COMPOSITION COLOR OCCURRENCE

Spinel Magnesium aluminate. The Red, pink, lilac, purple, Myanmar, Sri Lanka,
Hardness: 8.0 trace elements that give the violet, brown, blue, Tanzania, Russia,
stone its color are chromium, black Pakistan, Afghanistan,
iron and cobalt Thailand, Vietnam

37
FROM MINE TO JEWEL

Gemstone deposits are not evenly distributed across the earth. They are concentrated in
the countries that make up the Gemstone Belt, which extends from the northern Tropic
of Cancer to the southern Tropic of Capricorn. In their search for gemstones, geologists
make a distinction between primary and secondary deposits.

PRIMARY DEPOSITS
In primary deposits, the stones still have their original relationship with the host rock.
The crystals are well preserved, but the yield from these repositories is limited. Ex-
tracting the gems involves excavating many tons of non-gem-bearing rock.

SECONDARY DEPOSITS
Secondary deposits contain gemstones that have been transported by erosion from the
places where they were formed and deposited elsewhere. The harder crystals are
rounded off in the process, while the less hard ones are reduced to smaller pieces or
destroyed. The search for gemstones here is much easier and mining tends to be far
more productive than in the primary deposits.

THE TRUE ART OF CUTTING

Cutting gemstones is not only an artistic skill but also a science in its own right. Nature
has endowed gemstones with an infinite variety of internal characteristics and combi-
nations, which means that only the most experienced cutters are able to elicit the most
beautiful colors and intensive fire from a gemstone. The first step in the cutting process
is preforming: here, the gem cutter defines the depth of color, shape and size of the
stone to be faceted. The preforming stage is the most difficult and important in the entire
process. The weight and, with it, the maximum achievable value of the faceted gem-
stone largely depend on the success of this step. The final polishing is the culmination
of the many grinding stages and gives the stone its seductive brilliance.

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CRAFTSMANSHIP AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL

Whenever our buyers see a gemstone, they are able to form a mental idea of the piece of
jewelry that would set it off to perfection. Working closely with the designers in our
workshops, they develop these ideas until we have a detailed drawing of the piece in
question. This serves as a model for the goldsmith and the gem setter.

Drawing on all their artistic skill and craft smanship, our goldsmiths transform the two-
dimensional idea into a fabulous piece of jewelry. Finally, the gem setter puts the
crowning glory on the design: with the steady hand and meticulous care indispensable
for his craft, he expertly secures the gemstone in its gold setting.

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GEMSTONE TREATMENT CODES

Code Definition

Natural stone category

N Not enhanced.

Specific enhancement codes

A At the moment, we do not know whether these stones have been or will be enhanced, or we are
unable to say. We assume that they have not been enhanced.

Z At the moment, we do not know whether these stones have been or will be enhanced, or we are
unable to say. We assume that they could have been enhanced.

E Normally enhanced stones. One or several kinds of enhancement are possible. These are listed
below.

Q Composite stones. Made of the same material as the stone and/or foreign materials.

Specific forms of enhancement and their most important effects

F Cavities and fissures are filled with material (glass, resin) to harden the stone. The stone‘s
durability is improved. The process can increase transparency and in some cases make the
original color even more intensive.

H Stones have been heated. This often intensifies or changes the original color. At best, the
transparency is increased. Particularly in corundums, fi ssures may contain foreign bodies
left over from the heating process.

O Fissures and cavities are filled with non-hardening colorless materials (oil or wax). The process
increases transparency and in some cases makes the original color even more intensive.

R Stones have been irradiated: gamma, electron or neutron bombardment. The original color is
intensified or a new color is created.

U Color-producing substances are introduced into the stone at high temperatures.

The color of a thin layer beneath the stone’s surface is intensified or altered.

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The declaration provides a dependable summary regarding the enhancement treatments undergone by
our jewelry and gemstones or confirms that they are in their natural state.

Examples of declarations
To make these easier to understand, we have selected three declarations standard for the industry:

Declaration Meaning
Ruby EH Ruby, enhanced (E), heated (H)
Topaz blue EHR Topaz, blue, enhanced (E), heated (H) and irradiated (R)
Sapphire N Sapphire, not enhanced, left in its natural state (N)

For practical reasons, the gemstone treatment codes are kept brief. They should be understood as gemolo-
gical information. For further questions and personal advice, our qualifi ed gemologists will be pleased to
help.

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