Early Satavahana
Early Satavahana
Early Satavahana
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Costume
In the first Century BC we find tunics, Kancuka in the stripes or beehive design worn by attendants or
hunters.
The kancuka are of mid-thigh length with short or long sleeves; in some the opening is on the left side,
and in others it is at the front.
The tunic worn by a king in hunting dress has no discernible opening at the neck, so it is probably at the
back.
Necklines too differed in that some were V-shaped and others were round in shape.
With the tunic a thick Kayabandh was wound once or twice around the waist. An elaborate turban ushnisa,
intertwined with the long black hair of the aborigine wearers was also worn.
In addition to these, hunters wore two-bar type sandals with a strap for buckling, which is still seen in the
Deccan.
village women too changed their costume using short antariyas, large uttariyas with elaborate board
borders covering the head and back, tikkas on the forehead and a series of or ivory bangles on the arms.
female attendant wore transparent long antariyas with loose kayabandhs tied in a knot at the centre
having beautiful ornamental tips.
Their many �stringed girdles or mekhala were made of beads. Shoulder-length hair held by fillets or top
knots tied.
The king and most of his courtiers wore indigenous antariya, short and informal at home, with the longer
style worn in a variety of ways on ceremonial occasions.
With this the decorative kayabandh was tied in different styles and knots.
The kayabandh could be tied like a thick cord or be worn looped in a semi-circle at the front with
conspicuous side tassels, or be made of thick twisted silk.
The ushnisa was always worn and a crown or tiara was used when necessary.
Most often, the long hair of men was worn intertwined with lengths of cloth to form an ushnisa in a variety
of ways.
Frequently it had a knot - the original top knot of the aboriginal-covered with the cloth of the turban.
This knot could be at centre front or protrude over the forehead in a conch-shell shape, or the tuft of hair
could be visible on top of the turban.
Jewellery
Jewellery in this period had a massive primitive character in strong contrast to that worn in the later Satavahana
period. the kancuka or tunic, is worn by hunters, attendants and soldiers, very little or no jewellery is seen. Most
often it consists of just earrings of the wheel pattern type.
Commonly jewellery however, consisted of Lambanam, earrings, and a pair of kangan and bajuband for the males.
Women did not wear the baju band but wore a large number of bangles made of conch or ivory, disc-type
earrings, the lambanam, and tikka on the forehead.
Military Costume
Soldiers wore short-sleeved tunics or jackets, with elaborate headgear consisting of either a turban with a topknot,
chin band and earflaps or two topknots with a turban.
They were equipped with axes, and bows and arrows, or carried sickles. Palace guards however wore the antariya
with a heavy cloak draped over the left shoulder.