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 Journal of eISSN: 2574-8114

 Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology


Literature Review Volume 8 Issue 3


A Study on the new business strategies for the Indian apparel industry
 post-covid-19 pandemic
Santosh Kumar Tarai,1  M Soundarya2
1Associate professor, Dept. of Fashion Management Studies, NIFT, Bhubaneswar, India
 2
Masters Student, Dept. of Fashion Management Studies, NIFT, Bhubaneswar, India

Correspondence: Dr. Santosh Kumar Tarai, Associate professor, Dept. of Fashion Management Studies, NIFT, Bhubaneswar, India

Received: May 08, 2022 | Published: June 3, 2022

Citation: Tarai SK, Soundarya M. A Study on the new business strategies for the Indian apparel industry post-covid-19 pandemic. J Textile Eng Fashion
Technol. 2022;8(3):65-69. DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2022.08.00303

 Download PDF

Abstract
The covid-19 pandemic has disrupted enormous businesses across the globe to an extent none had ever imagined. There is no doubt
about the slowdown of various businesses; however, covid was a boon to a few industries worldwide. The textile and apparel industry
is one such industry where the covid-19 pandemic is both a boon and a bane. Many of these industries got shut down during the
pandemic, but few managed to survive and grow during and after the post-covid-19 pandemic. The Indian apparel industry was also a
victim of the pandemic, but not for a prolonged time. Few industries tried ways to overcome the struggle and successfully devised new
strategies that kept them forward through the years. Thus, to understand and implement the new strategies, it is essential to get past
the scenario that led to the formation of these strategies. 

Objective: This study highlights the scenario of the Indian apparel industry Post- Multifibre Agreement (MFA) regime that led to its
success along with the existing challenges and conditions at that time, which helped in formulating the strategies followed before the
covid disruption. Insights from the past studies would help in understanding and implementing the new strategies that would fit aptly in
this new post covid period. The study is mostly based on data gathered from secondary sources and industry inputs from various
export firms at the management level.

Keywords: Covid-19, business strategies, supply chain, small and midsize enterprises, post-quota regime

Introduction
A business strategy can be simply defined as a clear set of plans, actions, and goals that outlines how a business is supposed to perform
in a competitive market with either products or services or both. It focuses on strengthening performance in order to achieve the
desired goals and actions set for it. Strategic inputs and decisions have always paved the path to success for any industry, the apparel
industry being one of them. The covid-19 pandemic has kindled the need for strategic movements and decisions, especially in the Indian
apparel industry, as the market dynamics have changed since then. The shift of attention from China to the southeast Asian countries,
namely India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia, has resurged the competition and the need to implement new business strategies in
order to keep moving forward.

Business strategy will help us to understand the volatility in the fashion business, which was induced by unprecedented rapid
developments in communication and information technology, trade liberalisation, and the globalized nature of the fashion business.1
Further, it is also observed that increasing consumers demand in the last two decades has made competitive strategies becoming more
relevant to the firms. Moreover, with the advent of WTO, firms compete with their domestic and foreign rivals in the market. It is
apparent for firms to adapt to the environment in order to survive and prosper in the market.2 Further, with the rapid adoption of the
internet, physical boundaries and distance are becoming less critical as firms all over the world are now able to cater to larger markets
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more efficiently.3 All these developments have compelled exporting firms to step up the level of competitiveness against their
competitors who are producing similar products in the same industry. Firms with the capability in all facets of competitive priorities
may survive in a fast-changing marketplace. The SME sector cannot be an exception; it has been seriously affected by phenomena that
pervade the large-scale sector. Previously, it was believed that SME firms were solely focused on the domestic market, but now, in order
to survive and growth in the long run, they must be globally competitive.4 As gradually the market is changing very fast with the
changes in the business environment and spirit of competition, keeping this fact in mind, the majority of the SME firms in developing
countries have emphasized adopting core competitive strategies in order to survive in a globalized market.5

As apparel sector is majorly dominated by SME firms which play a potential role in improving the economy by increasing exports,
generating employment, and raising the standard of living. To make this sector more competitive, sustainable, and with better export
performance, it needs to adopt specific strategies to have the upper hand in the competitive market. Looking at the change in business
and stiff competitive market, business strategy or competitive strategy can be more adaptable for SME firms to gain competitive
advantages over their rivals (Porter, 1980). He offers a generic strategy that may be appropriate for small manufacturing firms under
certain industry conditions; first, the differentiation strategy creates a unique product, service, customer loyalty, price-inelasticity,
competitive barriers, and higher margins. Second, the low-cost strategy creates a sustainable competitive advantage by offering the
lowest prices based on low-cost producer status in an industry segment. Third, pricing strategy adaptation refers to how the pricing
strategies for a product differ across national boundaries. The business model is built on four types of competitive tactics that export
firms in SMEs should use: marketing, segmentation, innovation, and product service. Others said that developing long-term goodwill ties
with consumers or buyers would make it easier for SMEs to build client loyalty and, as a result, lower their operating costs. From a
larger perspective, it is far cheaper to serve an existing (loyal) customer than to attract and serve a new one.6

Literature review

Indian apparel industry pre-covid-19 disruption – a perspective:

The Indian apparel industry is known for its reasonable export share in the world market during the quota regime. However, there
were targeted markets comprising a limited number of products due to the existing quota system back then. From 1996 to 2009, an
increase of slow growth in export was observed, implying underutilization of manufacturing units resulting in high costs. As a result,
Indian industries faced challenges while competing worldwide despite having the advantage of forwarding and backward integration. In
addition, factors like poor technology, lack of quality infrastructure, low productivity and efficiency, and poor-quality products led to
operational challenges, resulting in slow growth in exports. The removal of the quota system also resulted in the participation of many
developing countries in apparel exports that used to have better export policies and thus gained benefits through custom duties and
tariffs. This became a challenge for India as the poor performance of India's export was primarily due to the shifting of production base
to low-cost apparel producing countries, as mentioned above, which led to the massive competition among the developing countries.

It was estimated that post elimination of the quota system, the global textile and apparel base will be shifted to the south Asian
countries, predominantly China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangladesh, and India. Many contemporary studies suggested that India and China
would be the major gainers in the textile & apparel trade in the post-quota period due to the availability of cheap labour and raw
materials.7,8 Before the covid-19 pandemic outbreak, the Indian apparel export industry was performing at a mediocre level as export
suppliers particularly Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey, and Cambodia emerged successfully and grabbed Indian export share in the US and
EU and other world's major apparel consuming markets as per ITC trade map data. Thus, it became pertinent to understand the
competitors' approach and strategy in the apparel export business with their successive growth in export trade. This has become a
harsh lesson for Indian apparel suppliers to consider the causes of failure in the apparel export market.

India's competitiveness and performance in the global market in the past two decades

Although India is among the top ten exporters in the world market, due to certain factors, India's performance is not up to the level as
expected. The comparison of market shares generally measures competitiveness. It can also be measured by various input costs (input
measure) corrected for labour productivity and quality factors. India's apparel exports in the world market, although registering
growth, export performance is slow compared to others. Thus, to make the Indian apparel sector more competitive and efficient, the
operational input factors are required for improvements. Besides, there is a need to improve non-price factors such as quick response,
fabric quality and processing quality, etc., which are perceived as essential attributes at the international level.

However, in competitiveness, India's apparel exporting firms are found to lack these attributes compared to its immediate exporting
apparel suppliers in the present export market scenario. There have been contesting opinions on the drawbacks of the Indian apparel
industry that made it difficult to become the global leader.

India's declining apparel export can be further attributed to two dominant reasons. One is that India failed to get orders from export
consumer markets, and the other is that India faces stiff competition from its neighbouring counterparts, including Turkey. The
declining growth rate of Indian apparel exports is due to a lack of orders from apparel export consumers like Western Europe, the USA,
Canada, etc., due to the economic slowdown in their own country. On the other hand, India faces stiff competition from apparel
exporters from Vietnam and Bangladesh, who are vigorously competing for apparel export market shares. Similarly, Turkey has
emerged as a barrier to the EU market for Indian exporters due to its geographical proximity and faster delivery of orders.

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 Another but more important reason is the highly fragmented character of the apparel market in India adds further worries about
consolidation and the transportation costs. Moreover, increasing wage rates, hikes in oil prices, and inputs costs are other causes of
worry, affecting exporter's profit.9 Furthermore, higher unit value realizations reveal a heavy hold in a different market segment rather
than competitiveness in similar markets. As a result, higher unit value is critical in sustaining and improving competitiveness over time
for Indian apparel exporters. Thereby, India's export share is also affected by these factors in the present context. Contemporary
studies reveal that Indian apparel export is expected to perform better in export markets. This is evident from the world export data
that China is losing market share in the present export market after the covid-19 outbreak, particularly from countries like Bangladesh,
Vietnam, and Turkey. Therefore, the dominant arguments are that this could be an opportunity for Indian apparel exporters to focus on
those markets and capture the export share where China is outperformed. The reflection of India's export will be further supported
when all these input production factors are taken care of by the government and industry stakeholders. Besides, it is observed that
India's export category dominates the world export market in certain areas. The apparel categories such as non-knit women's
outerwear, non-knit undergarments, and knitted undergarments constitute the most significant shares and account for more than 70
percent of exports from India.10 Compared to the market shares of these and other product categories of India's exports against a few
of its competitors, India's competitive edge is quite mixed. Thus, the comparison is restricted to apparel exports to the USA, the single
largest market for Indian exports. In this category, China and Hong Kong pose the greatest threat to India in terms of market shares.

Table 1 explains the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats of the Indian apparel industry. Despite the minute flaws
possessed by the apparel industry, the strengths and opportunities available cannot be undermined. Since the covid-19 pandemic, a
clear shift in apparel business from China has been observed, and importers like the US and EU and many brands have taken command
on humanitarian grounds and decided to source from other established competing manufacturing countries. This resulted in a boon for
countries like India, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Vietnam. However, the rise of neighbouring countries is a threat to the Indian apparel
industry, but the forward and backward integration system of the Indian apparel industry keeps it marching forward. Moreover, the
revised government's favourable policies and initiatives have not only helped the industry to take a step ahead in the global market but
also cater to the observed weaknesses by pondering on new business strategies which may be helpful to the Indian exporters to
produce competitive products to meet the buyer's expectations in volatile markets. Further, we have attempted to frame a perceptual
mapping of Asia’s major apparel export countries based on their position in the market.

Strengths Weakness

- The second largest industry in India - Export content has reduced

- Vertically integrated Industry - High dependence on Accessories (trims-hard goods) in China

- Comparatively better entrepreneurial skills - Technological dependence

- Largest exporter to the EU and 2nd largest to the USA - Insufficient skilled workforce

- Strong raw material base - Lack of one-stop building

- Available of huge manpower and cheap workforce - High dependence on various stakeholders

- Cost competitiveness - Lack of sufficient specialists in pattern making

- Flexible textile manufacturing systems - Lack of sufficient chemicals for colour printing

- The apparel industry is one of the largest contributors to foreign exchange

Opportunity Threats

- Can be leader in world apparel exports - Strong international competition particular China, Bangladesh and Vietnam

- Capable of reducing the level of unemployment - Recession in foreign markets

- Enormous export potential - Unpredictable of foreign currency exchange risks

- Need to focus on new developed market - Improvement in quality

- Need to focus on development on new product

- Need to focus on quick response

- Rising of domestic demand consumption  

Table 1 SWOT analysis of the Indian apparel industry

Figure 1 highlights the competitor mapping regarding compliance, pricing, product value, and quality. SME firms dominate the Indian
apparel industry, so it has scattered supply chains created specifically by small informal firms. This segment has limitation with low
product diversity, but have full capabilities for cotton production, lacking in processing synthetic fabrics, modern machinery, limited trim
manufacturing units, and decreased duty drawback. But Bangladesh is a low-cost country due to low wages and other factors. Due to
preferential access to European markets under the 'Everything but Arms (EBA) initiative and in Canada, Japan, and the USA under their

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respective GSP schemes,11 this country has established an integrated factory for which it has been capable of getting large bulk orders.
This country is highly dependent on fabric sourcing from India and China, and its target markets are low to mid-market segments. To
some extent, this country is seen as weak in terms of compliance, quality, and dependability.

Figure 1 India's competitors perceptual mapping.

Due to the participation of premium garment firms, Sri Lanka is positioned as a higher-priced, higher-value niche product and is heavily
reliant on textile resources, especially imports from China and India. Cambodia's rising wages are affecting FOB prices, and the country
produces poor unit values due to a lack of product diversity and mid-range quality.12 Indonesia, on the other hand, has a low to
moderate product value. This country has a positive image among purchasers, as well as significant textile mills and a strong skills base.
Vietnam has the ability to deliver on non-cost factors and has recorded strong growth despite higher unit values and invested heavily in
backward linkages. China stands out among all and produces a vast range of goods and services, has increased productivity levels in
short lead times and has the ability to deliver on non-cost factors. However, after the ban on using the cotton from their cotton-growing
Xinjiang region, there is an impact on orders being shifted to India/Pakistan and other Asian countries. Pakistan has outperformed in
apparel exports to both the European Union and USA compared to India and Bangladesh for 2021. At the same time, the lack of product
diversity has led to low reliability in their products, despite their competitive prices and advantage in cotton-based products.12

Covid disruptions in the Indian apparel industry

The Covid-19 Pandemic has led to multiple disruptions and disorientation in the supply chain network, adversely affecting it. Being one
of the essential parts of the business, the Supply Chain is under tremendous pressure and scrutiny. Disruptions at various levels have
led to the closure of many businesses. The textile and apparel supply chain has also witnessed a slowdown in the business due to the
pandemic, which resulted in the migration of labour forces, difficulty in sourcing and availability of raw materials, delay in delivery of
finished product orders, and maintaining the warehouses, managing the inventory. The manufacturing units operating during the
pandemic with reduced labour forces following the social distancing guidelines showed lower productivity and efficiency. A digital
survey conducted by the ILO Siraye program to assess the impact of COVID-19 on factory operational activities highlighted that; the
capacity utilization rate decreased by 30% in quarter 1 2020 compared to 2019 statistics. There will be a decrease in revenue by 20%
in 54% of the factories surveyed in 2020. 58% of manufacturers want to re-purpose production towards Covid-19 response goods
(face masks, towels, bed linen, and patient gowns). They will need support in sourcing machinery, raw materials, foreign exchange, and
training workers (Dawit, 2020). Global consulting firm McKinsey in its report of immediate sourcing responses to Covid-19,2020 has
stated that the sourcing executives have to focus on four priorities securing inventory and managing the ramp-down and ramp-up of
supply chains; optimizing cash flow along the supply chain, and ensuring optimal trade-off between cash position, profit impact, and
supplier stability; proactively managing financial risk across the entire supply chain, and finally adjusting internal costs, including open
commitments and operating expenses of the sourcing function.13

With China being the first country to be hit by the Covid pandemic, it suspended the export of raw materials to the neighbouring and
western countries, giving rise to disruptions and breakdowns in the supply chain. Due to the unavailability of raw materials and
nationwide lockdowns, the manufacturing units had no choice but to shut down their businesses. The delay in the availability of raw
materials, lack of transportation facilities, migration of labour, and cash flow constraints disturbed the supply chain management of
various apparel export houses and textile businesses (Kumar, Luthra, Mangla, & Kazançoğlu, 2020). Global brands like H&M, Inditex,
Mark & Spencer, PVH, VF Corporation, Kiabi, and Target have assured to fulfill the existing contractual obligations between the brands
and the export houses situated in countries like India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, etc. for the orders placed pre-covid, but that is not enough
to compensate the losses caused by the disruption of the supply chain.14

Due to the present global economic setback, socio-political turmoil, and pandemic challenges, the Indian economy faces macroeconomic
risks. For the last two years, problems like slow growth in industrial contribution, lack of efficiency in industries, poor capital inflow,
and competitive factors across the globe have attracted priority attention in the government agenda as well as for apparel

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manufacturing exporters. Therefore, the above-discussed situations and scenarios make it necessary for devising new business
strategies that will help in overcoming and coping with the present market conditions and help in holding a substantial position in the
market in the coming years.

Suggestions

New business strategies for the Indian apparel industries

The relevance of defining and framing strategies for Indian apparel firms is unavoidable in the present context. Post covid-19 pandemic,
making strategic business decisions would help revamp the apparel market dynamics. Based on the understanding of the situation
before covid disruption and the present market conditions, a few strategies are suggested that will bring about a substantial amount of
change that would be significant in improving an industry's hold over the market.

Integrated growth strategy: The key focus of implementing an integrated growth strategy is to emphasize domestic and export
markets. Since Indian apparel and textile industries are sufficient enough to come together and get involved in exploiting their growth
potential by combining resources and competencies from their units and directing those units towards new business opportunities.
This would also optimize the entire value and supply chain, thereby improving the lead time and efficiency.

 Investment in advanced technology and machinery: In this era where science and technology have advanced massively, there is also
a paradigm shift in the apparel industry. Artificial Intelligence and Machine Learning have changed the dynamics of this industry's
operations, production, and retail segments. The government needs to increase the budget for investment across the entire value chain
spectrum, which can meet the exporters' requirement of accessing the finance at a reasonable interest rate with a longer duration for
up-gradation technology and types of machinery for better performance in products and non-product areas.

 Apparel-driven growth and priority on the handloom sector: Indian economy is changing fast and growing gradually; apparel-
making firms must focus on domestic rather than looking at the international market. Further, a large handloom base in India becomes
an opportunity for Indian firms to meet the increasing demand for sustainable products in the world market. Thus, attention is sought
both from the government and the weaving community.

HRD and flexible labour laws: To make the apparel industry attractive & preferred choice among the new generation, there should be
flexibility in labour policy & standardized with other industries. Availability of a trained workforce will result in product
quality/production efficiency and finishing areas through textile and apparel education. Division of work among unskilled vs skilled
leads to the effectiveness of the organisation.

Identity and brand image creation: Branding over the years has become the most critical aspect for a business to be known and
followed in the market. Consistency in product quality and development of new product trends. Providing quality products consistent
with recent trends leads to brand building & image creation. Further, holistic marketing leads to solid branding. Especially post covid,
customers want transparency in everything they see, including the products and services offered by any business company. Hence, it is
essential for a company to focus on the brand-building strategy.

Cost competitiveness: For a business firm, it is important to understand how the competitors are pricing their products. Hence,
adopting superior technology with new operational techniques, engaging a trained workforce & govt support, and incentives make the
apparel products cost-competitive globally.

Cluster identity & organised structure: The responsibility, sharing, and collective working culture of each export firm may produce
superior and different product categories that will create cluster identity. Further, marketing & promotional techniques using famous
personalities will lead to the branding of the cluster. Firms are required to be organised in which they can access a lot of both financial
and non-financial benefits; also, reasonable people may join the firms.

Emphasis on Direct buyer link & setting up own website: By implementing new technology, hiring the right people, and setting up
their websites, firms may be connected with buyers directly, increase their visibility, and will be able to make good money. Having a
website is the first step toward entering an e-commerce setup.

Vertical setup: Forgetting bigger volumes and decreasing lead time, vertical setup firms are necessary to compete and capture high
volume orders from buyers. Post covid-19 pandemic, buyers are looking for faster accessibility; thus, having a vertical setup would
decrease the lead time.

Setting up locally procured Fabric Hub and Training centre at apparel cluster centre: This may cater to the faster availability of
yarn and raw materials at a reasonable price with good quality both developing, stitching and making finished products in a hassle-free.
Also, reduce the lead time in supply chain activity and fulfil the market requirement by attending training regularly.

A sustainable approach to production: The industry has to focus on sustainable ways of production, specifically organic fabrics, to
protect the environment. Since the pandemic broke out, customer demand for sustainable and organic products has increased. For this
purpose, investment in superior technology and other infrastructure development is essential, considering the effect of apparel
production and consumption on environmental issues. Sustainability may influence customers' minds in the future.

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Collaboration with start-up firms: Collaboration will make the firms more visible for instance, inputs like design, materials, digital
print, technological support, information, and service will bring a holistic impact on the newly set up businesses. Once the company is
well established, it can always look for implementing an integrated growth strategy.15–19
Conclusion
The covid-19 pandemic undoubtedly slowed down the entire market dynamics, yet has also opened new channels and opportunities for
businesses. The right strategic move by business firms would ultimately lead to profits. Also, the end of the quota regime has created an
ample amount of employment strength, economic improvement, the scope for the development of industries, and the overall growth of
developing countries. These were not visible to that extent in developing countries during the quota regime. Further, it has provided an
opportunity for the developing countries to integrate the factors in business operation, restructure business practices, and
improvement of the industry. The apparel industry-particular SME firms show promise of gainful employment and are considered a big
money-spinner in any economy. This sector is the backbone of the Indian economy, considering the sector's contribution to growth in
production, boosting exports, and generating employment. However, some issues jeopardized the export capabilities of this sector in
the present context of a business slowdown, competitive global environment, and impact of the covid-19 pandemic.

 There have been still a series of challenges and differences in the global market for the Indian apparel and textiles sector; nonetheless,
it managed to take a step ahead and contribute to the share of the global export. It is observed that due to the superior business
strategy and export policy of a few Asian countries, their export share has increased enormously. However, despite the immense
potentiality of apparel firms in India failed to realize the required growth in export due to a plethora of reasons. Looking at the ups and
downs of the Indian apparel exports in the world market, it is required to focus on a skilled workforce, superior technology and
machinery, digitization of business process, strong supply chain, innovation in textile raw materials, market identification, qualitative
competing factors, motivation, and decent pay, change in labour policy to attract skilled people and facilities to women workers as they
are the major chunk workforce in the apparel industry.

To make the Indian apparel sector more competitive and efficient, both pricing and non-pricing factors are important, particularly
improvements in specific areas namely lending rate, advanced technology, quick response, fabric, and processing quality. It is expected
that the framework of this article may help shape the apparel exporting firms in harnessing the global opportunities that are being on
offering and provide a strategic roadmap for Indian apparel firms for sustainable growth in their exports. Though the reasons for their
failures to cope with the changing competitive world order are many but the article tries to put a sincere effort to provide broad
suggestions from business perspectives. We may hope that suitable government schemes and policies along with industry insights in
the best strategic direction could help this sector to be capable of managing to retain the buyers' requirements with competitive offers.

Acknowledgments
None.

Funding
None.

Conflicts of interest
Authors declare that there is no conflict of interest.

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©2022 Tarai, et al. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and
build upon your work non-commercially.

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