Carrau, Boido, Ramey AAM 2020
Carrau, Boido, Ramey AAM 2020
Carrau, Boido, Ramey AAM 2020
Contents
1. Introduction 90
2. Low input winemaking technology 93
2.1 A quality paradox: The high winemaking technology 94
2.2 Fining agents 95
2.3 Filtration 96
3. Microbial terroir and native yeasts 96
3.1 Biological control of fungi and insects by yeasts in the vineyards 99
3.2 Grape harvest and application of the traditional Saccharomyces yeast at the
winery 101
4. The alternative: Spontaneous fermentation and non-Saccharomyces strains 104
4.1 Friendly yeasts cooperate with the microbial terroir 105
4.2 Nutrient demand and competition in mixed cultures 106
5. Other application of non-Saccharomyces yeasts for low input winemaking 106
5.1 Color stability and synthesis of derived anthocyanin compounds 106
5.2 Increasing or decreasing total acidity by yeasts 107
5.3 Lees contact effects: Fast and slow cell lysis 109
5.4 Yeast strategies for low alcohol formation 110
6. Natural clarification and minimal manipulation before bottling 110
7. Concluding remarks 112
Acknowledgments 114
References 114
Abstract
Vitis vinifera flowers and grape fruits are one of the most interesting ecosystem niches
for native yeasts development. There are more than a 100 yeast species and millions of
strains that participate and contribute to design the microbial terroir. The wine terroir
concept is understood when grape and wine micro-regions were delimited by different
quality characteristics after humans had been growing vines for more than 10,000 years.
1. Introduction
The concept of low input winemaking was introduced in the 1990s by
a few winemakers with practical experience that discovered that minimal
handling of the grapes and avoiding some oenological practices in the winery
improves wine quality (Ramey, 1995). During the 1970s, there was a great
development and input at the winery of new technologies, stainless steel
tanks, cooling and filtration capacity, grapes pumping and pressing
technology, adjustments of pH by adding tartaric acid, clarification methods,
commercial yeast applications, addition of ammonium salts and other addi-
tives. However, some winemakers started to detect that some of these
winemaking operations were affecting wine composition, color, flavor,
body and palate. The more you manipulate the grape musts and wine,
the more you lose of anthocyanins, flavors and other compounds related
to the structure, such as proteins, mannoproteins, lipids, phenolics and poly-
saccharides. The low input concept comes from the great movement that
started in the 1980s with the reaction to the conventional agriculture that
increased the use of fertilizers and chemicals by three- or four-fold inputs
during the 1960–80 period. Some massive commodities plantations increase
exponentially at that time with many adverse side-effects to the food and
environmental conditions (Schaller, 1993).
Although there is not too much scientific information in the literature
about these topics in relation to grapes and wines, it is clearly known that
in the winemaking environment many oenologists have started to pay more
attention to these topics to obtain increased quality. The quality wine indus-
try is growing exponentially and is considered today to be the biggest brand-
ing category within the food industry (Bellini & Resnick, 2018), with more
Yeasts for low input winemaking 91
than 1 million wine brands on the market. Future winemakers will aim to
differentiate their product and focus on unique regional characteristics (the
“terroir” and “flavor phenotype” concepts). Winemakers and wine scientists
have started to understand that the microbial terroir exists and can shape the
native yeast composition of grapes during harvest time (Gilbert, van der
Lelie, & Zarraonaindia, 2014). The role of native yeasts within the terroir
concept and how they influence the final wines was ignored until recently.
The fact that many native yeasts are not adapted to the grape must or the
winery ecosystem or that they can produce off-flavors has been the topic
of research for many decades. The potential or positive contribution of
non-Saccharomyces yeast was underestimated (Binati et al., 2019; Ciani &
Comitini, 2011; Contreras et al., 2014; Jolly, Varela, & Pretorius, 2014;
Martin, Jose Valera, Medina, Boido, & Carrau, 2018; Mortimer &
Polsinelli, 1999; Perez-Torrado, Barrio, & Querol, 2018) and complete fer-
mentation or avoiding the production of off-flavors was the main objective
for decades. This challenge was clearly improved by the use of commercial
yeast strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. There was a conflict in winemakers’
minds between the compromise of standardization or taking the risk
of searching for flavor diversity (Carrau, Gaggero, & Aguilar, 2015).
However, more recently it was discovered that flavor diversity or complex-
ity is not obtained with pure fermentation of very efficient fermentation
strains, where ethanol production is the major capacity of S. cerevisiae.
Many non-Saccharomyces species were identified as good and intense flavor
producers under pure or mixed cultures with other yeasts, compared to the
conventional application of S. cerevisiae. Increasing yeast diversity increases
flavor complexity and might complete grape must fermentation and allow a
winemaker to express the terroir differences that give visibility to their brand
in this huge wine market.
Applications of the same commercial strains in different regions of the
world may be said to result in ordinary products, limiting diversity of the pro-
ducer style of wine. Some winemakers consider this a weakness of today’s
winemaking technology, and they are interested in producing wines of a
unique style, with minimal handling and by avoiding the use of additives.
This winemaking strategy is mainly possible with wines produced from grapes
of optimal concentration of the key compounds related to wine stability and
quality, such as high polyphenol and total extract content. Grape berry com-
position is the primary determinant of must composition prior to fermentation.
Manipulation of grapevines has the potential to influence grape berry
composition and, ultimately, the composition of wine, which, in turn,
92 Francisco Carrau et al.
can affect its stability against microbial spoilage and allows the use of the
native flora. Many of these technical concepts were called “low input
winemaking” (Ramey, 1995), and, in our opinion, after obtaining high
grape quality, the natural microflora and/or the type of yeast strain inocu-
lated is the second key step in winemaking to increase quality and complex-
ity (Carrau, 2005, 2006). The concept of “terroir” is still very controversial
as was discussed recently by Pretorius (2020). In this review, we will show
the importance of respecting the microbial terroir or native or wild yeasts so
as to differentiate our wines and give them a sense of origin. In our opinion,
human technology should be very precise and knowledgeable to let the
microbial terroir influence your regional end product. It is human technol-
ogy, in certain unique vineyard locations, that developed a regional reputa-
tion based on wine quality.
The native microbial flora as part of the terroir concept was a debated
for many years. Today, it is clearly demonstrated by new generation
sequencing technologies as being one of the key characteristics of a certain
wine region (Bokulich, Thorngate, Richardson, & Mills, 2014; Curtin &
Pretorius, 2014; Gilbert et al., 2014; Liu, Zhang, Chen, & Howell, 2019;
Pretorius, 2020; Wu et al., 2014). The massive use of commercial yeast
of the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae has confused what might be the poten-
tial of leaving native yeasts to do their work in your grapes. Interestingly, it is
known that regional dispersion of native yeast cells by insects such as honey
bees was estimated to be not more than 10 km away from their origin
(Goddard, Anfang, Tang, Gardner, & Jun, 2010). This ensures a restricted
limit for microbiota diversity within a few vineyards of a certain micro-
region. However, birds such as pigeons might fly for about 60 km from their
nests, and migratory birds might disperse up to 300 km, but mainly for resis-
tant strains such as Saccharomyces (Francesca, Canale, Settanni, & Moschetti,
2012). Non-Saccharomyces strains are probably more restricted to local
regional terroirs than Saccharomyces.
In this review, we focus on this specific aspect of the microbial terroir
flora and show, with some examples, how native yeasts might be selected
for the production of highly differentiated unique wines. We will discuss
the use of “friendly” selected yeasts and how they share their fermentation
niche with the natural yeast flora of a certain specific vine site or terroir, all-
owing to obtain increased yeast diversity that will contribute to the flavor
complexity of wine. In contrast, the majority of Saccharomyces strains do
not allow this when used conventionally. These applied microbial concepts
will contribute to help develop new strategies for wine microbiologists and
Yeasts for low input winemaking 93
Fig. 1 The main flavor compounds synthesis is affected negatively by DAP additions.
The opposite situation only occurred for some high-nitrogen demand Saccharomyces
strains that were adapted to higher YAN levels, probably before they were commercially
available (Carrau et al., 2008). The figure shows that above 180 mgN/L of YAN some wine
S. cerevisiae, considered low nitrogen demand strains, reduce flavor synthesis, probably
favoring the primary ethanol fermentation (Carrau et al., 2017).
and might affect the flavor of white wines. Many other fining agents were
developed in the last two decades, just to give other examples, in the case of
protein based fining agents such as white eggs or vegetal proteins, the astrin-
gency and bitterness of wine can decline by interaction with procyanidin
(Oberholster, Carstens, & Du Torr, 2013). In addition, residues of some
clarifiers such as cow’s milk casein have been detected mainly in white wines
and may cause allergic reactions in sensitive consumers (Zelenakova,
Fikselova, Ziarovska, Kolesarova, & Jurcaga, 2019). Low input winemaking
demands that these operations with additives be well understood before
applying and that they might be curative and not preventive for quality.
2.3 Filtration
Another well-known manipulation in the wine industry is the cleaning
operation through filtration systems. The colloids formed by hydrogen
bonding between procyanidins and polysaccharides might be removed by
filtration processes, causing negative sensory impacts (El Rayess et al.,
2011, 2012).
The type of membrane used in the filtration affects polyphenols reten-
tion. The most classic nylon membranes used in the wine industry contain
multiple amide bounds that can bind anthocyanins or other polar molecules
by hydrogen bonding (Bowyer, Edwards, & Eyre, 2013). The nylon mem-
brane was replaced in many applications by the polyethersulfone (PES)
membrane, with minimal sites for hydrogen bonding and minor loss of
anthocyanins.
Recent studies show that filtration over a plate filter with cellulose sheets
causes a significant reduction of mannoproteins, homogalocturonans and
polysaccharides rich in arabinose and galactose in red wines (Martı́nez-
Lapuente, Guadalupe, & Ayestarán, 2017). In this work it was shown that
cross-flow microfiltration produces large losses of polyphenols and polysac-
charides but also increases the ratio arabinose over galactose polysaccharides
affecting the sensory characteristics of the wines (Martı́nez-Lapuente
et al., 2017).
could be improved with the selection of the right grape varieties and a vine-
yard management focused on fruit quality. This management and the soil
and site characteristics are going to influence the grape microflora that would
enter the winery (Tempère et al., 2018). As the winemaking process is not
under sterile conditions, the winemaker must understand the great biodiver-
sity that appears in the grape juice and, on the other hand, learn how to use
commercial yeasts or conduct a spontaneous fermentation to reach quality
flavors in the final wine.
Fermented foods were originally developed by our ancient predeces-
sors as a biological way to preserve different fresh agricultural products,
such as fruit juices, milk or meat. The challenge in those times was to
extend the conservation of these foods for a few months to take advantage
of them after the harvest time without adding mineral products such as salt
or vinegar. In addition, centuries of masters in fermentation were needed
to understand how to manage what some chemists in the 19th century
called “enzyme activities,” which decrease pH or generate alcohol as
inhibitors of microbial contamination for more safe foods. Interestingly,
the discovery of the true fermentation was demonstrated by the practical
masters of fermentation in the beer or wine industry at the end of the 18th
century and not in the academy (Anderson, 1989). Now the role of yeasts
in the fermentation of sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide has been
known for more than two centuries. However, well over a half of the
19th century elapsed before Pasteur established the role of yeast strain in
the production of different wines and beers in 1866. There have been great
advances in selection of strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae—the widely used
yeast for beer, bread, cider and wine production. Yeast biology had
advanced due to the knowledge developed with Saccharomyces cerevisiae,
and there are still very limited studies on other yeasts. The good news is
that there is a wild and enormous stock of genetic and phenomic reserve
within non-Saccharomyces strains. In relation to the food industry, this fact
will increase available yeast diversity for obtaining flavor and sensory com-
plexity for applied fermentation processes (Carrau et al., 2015; Cordente,
Curtin, Varela, & Pretorius, 2012). On the other hand, from the yeast
technology point of view, the progress in molecular characterization
was fundamental for strain identification and differentiation within
Saccharomyces and will be fundamental for non-Saccharomyces strain discrim-
ination and follow complex populations during non-sterile fermentations
such as wine or cider. These methods, together with the massive sequenc-
ing for defining the microbiome and their correlations with the
98 Francisco Carrau et al.
Fig. 2 Native yeast selections by flavor traits is a key strategy to ensure quality initial
fermentation, avoiding the risk of free spontaneous processes. Here we showed natural
tools used to understand and improve selected strains and their interactions with the
microbial terroir. Wine microbiologists now have many biotechnology alternatives to
genome modification approaches. Friendly yeast starters are explained as strains that
are not so aggressive with the natural flora, as happens with Saccharomyces cerevisiae
strains. These starters should allow other strains and yeast species to contribute to the
final flavor profile. They work in a consortia style of vinification, and it is expected that
this process with increase yeast diversity and increase flavor complexity, microbial
stability and wine differentiation in the market. Low input winemaking strategies are
favored by increased yeast diversity.
pruine pedicel
skin brush
Epiphytes Endophytes
Hanseniaspora/ Kloeckera Rhodotorula Cryptococcus
Metschnikowia Aureobasidium Debaryomyces
Issatchenkia Hortaea peripheral
Rhodosporidium
Pichia beams
Yarrowia
Saccharomyces
central
beams
seeds
pulp
Fig. 3 The grape berry structure is shown in this scheme along with the main yeast gen-
era identified as epiphytes and endophytes that were found in the Vitis vinifera Tannat
using microbial and transcriptomic methods (Godoy et al., 2018). Interestingly, endo-
phytes were mainly from the basidiomycetes yeast group. Only 5–10% of this flora
was found to be antagonistic against pathogenic fungi, and a similar percentage was
proved to contribute with superior flavors to the quality of wine. A low input
winemaking strategy would be to increase this beneficial flora in the vineyard by selec-
tion and application in the vines.
100 Francisco Carrau et al.
vintage. Usually by this method, they select Saccharomyces strains after the
pre-fermentation process. After a second round of yeast enrichment in
the following tank, yeast diversity also starts to decrease. Although through
this mechanism we start to work with native Saccharomyces flora that are dif-
ferent from the commercial strains, final yeast diversity was low due to their
dominance against non-Saccharomyces native flora. An advantage of these
native Saccharomyces yeasts is that they are better adapted to industrial con-
ditions, such as low assimilable nitrogen, than commercial strains, producing
pleasant aromas without di-ammonia phosphate DAP additions. However,
after a few generations, you will be working with one or two strains in the
system. It is well known that Saccharomyces strains are very dominant and
exclude from the fermentation medium all non-Saccharomyces and the major-
ity of Saccharomyces strains.
The first commercially available strains started to appear in the 1960s, and
today, there are many alternatives, although some strains might be the same
with different producer brands. It was shown that vineyards close to a winery
could be affected by the commercial S. cerevisiae strains used in the winery,
and it was demonstrated that after only 3 years of using a commercial
Saccharomyces strain in a winery, the strain will start to appear in the vineyards
around the winery, interacting with the native flora (Valero, Schuller,
Cambon, Casal, & Dequin, 2005). The commercial strains added in a winery
could be affecting the unique wine styles of a determined region. It is clearly
known that where a strain of Saccharomyces is inoculated in a certain levels of
population as suggested for commercial strains, the fermentation will be
carry on with a single yeast fermentation. In a few hours, the native flora
present in the grapes will be excluded from the medium as we demonstrated
with a Chardonnay barrel-fermented compared to spontaneously fermented
(Medina et al., 2013) (Fig. 4). This behavior is what we would like to use to
define a non-friendly strain; a natural adaptation in the Saccharomyces genus is
to compete efficiently with other yeasts in the fermentation winery niche,
which is very rich in sugars (there are very few species defined as Crabtree-
positive yeasts). In the environmental winery ecosystem, the grape must is
where Saccharomyces is the best-adapted to, high osmotic pressure by sugars,
low pH at 3.0–3.5, presence of sulfites and anaerobic conditions. As it was
demonstrated in a few hours, these species will build a more aggressive envi-
ronment to exclude other microbial competitors, such as by increasing tem-
perature, producing CO2 and increasing reduction and production of
ethanol as a microbial antiseptic compound (Goddard & Greig, 2015).
day 3 day 10
day 3 day 10
100% 100%
Scnative 4 Non -
Saccharomyces
80% 80%
Scnative 3
60%
60%
Scnative 1 Commercial
40%
40%
Commercial AIG 804 20%
20%
0%
0%
Commercial Commercial
Spontaneous Spontaneous
day 3 day 10
day 3 day 10
Lall/laffort non-Sacch
Lall/laffort
100% 100%
Scnative 3
Scnative 4
80% 80%
Scnative 2 Scnative 3
60% 60%
Scnative 2
Scnative 1 40%
40% Scnative 1
the risk of production of large amounts of ethyl acetate, acetic acid or hydro-
gen sulfide. According to Romano, Fiore, Paraggio, Caruso, and Capece
(2003), the synthesis of secondary products is an individual and reproducible
strain characteristic. In our experience using sensory analysis, we screened
native yeasts isolated from healthy Tannat grapes, and results showed that
about 10% of strains were producers of pleasant or good sensory character-
istics. This fact explained why spontaneous fermentation is not a popular
alternative for winemakers today. Within the limited selected strains by this
method, we discovered many strains of Hanseniaspora vineae, Metschnikowia
pulcherrima and M. fructicola that produced superior flavors. Intense fruity
aromas that contributed to increasing the varietal character of this variety
were obtained in a sequential mixed culture with Saccharomyces (Medina,
Boido, Dellacassa, & Carrau, 2005). Wines obtained at the industrial level
were fruitier, with higher color and similar volatile acidity and alcohol
content compared to the pure Saccharomyces vinification (Medina, Boido,
Dellacassa, & Carrau, 2018). Similar results were obtained with barrel-
fermented Chardonnay fermentations (Medina et al., 2013). During our
experiments with spontaneous fermentations, we noted that some inocula-
tions with non-Saccharomyces strains started to slowly ferment and behaved
similar to the spontaneous treatments but always with pleasant aromas.
Molecular identification methods confirmed that even these treatments have
more diversity of yeast strains in the process than the spontaneous process
(Martin et al., 2018; Medina et al., 2013) (Fig. 4). We started to think about
a friendly way to share the fermentation medium if our starters allowed other
yeast species to grow and contribute with diverse metabolites compared to a
single strain fermentation.
have experienced many low quality standards of wines with minimal filtra-
tion or that are unfiltered. We believe it was a fashion in the late 1990s and
2000s for many wines defined as organic to be bottled with a “romantic”
idea but poor microbial technology. This was also very frequently the case
with our ancestors, where in some years, the vintage was excellent and in
some years, it was not. The bottling process for optimal quality is a key
moment for the winemaker. He might have done excellent work during
vineyard management, harvest and fermentation and aging, but if any prob-
lem appears at bottling that was not previewed, the image of the product will
be poor and all the previous work underestimated. These points are affirma-
tions to make stand out the importance of this topic. Here some ideas are
given on how to obtain microbial stability for many years in a bottle. If
we are not patient and willing to bottle a young wine after vinification,
in our opinion, a good sterile filtration and the protein stability tests, mainly
for white and rose wines, should be the way to ensure flavor quality and tur-
bidity stability. In Fig. 5, we show an example of a red wine that was barrel-
aged for a short time to finish malolactic fermentation and two key analytical
Fig. 5 Searching for microbial and wine stability before bottling. When a wine is ready
for bottling, you can avoid filtration by some simple analysis of the blend in a tank with
temperature control (10–15 °C). This is a 50 hL tank example of a red wine over 40 days.
Free SO2 variations are an indirect indicator of microbial stability and an easy way to
follow this process at a winery. A turbidimeter also indicates the natural clarification
at the time to define the optimal time for bottling without filtration; data are indicated
in NTU.
112 Francisco Carrau et al.
parameters that can be followed to ensure quality before bottling with min-
imal handling, free SO2 stability and turbidity. Stability of new blends or
wines that were racked from barrels always need about 40–80 days of har-
monization in a temperature control tank before bottling to preserve flavors
(Ramey & Ough, 1980). After unfiltered bottling, we followed microbial
stability sampling bottles every 15 days. After 90 days of laying bottles for
aging in a cellar, microbial growth was not found by plating tests. The
exception that many winemakers have found is the potential appearance
of Brettanomyces yeast cells if the wine has been in contact with them during
the winemaking process (see recent review Cibrario et al., 2019). This
should be tested with some commercial kits for Brett detection before bot-
tling without filtration.
Alternative low input winemaking strategies are being studied to
improve or avoid the use of additives. For example, the selection of many
new strains with protease activity for fermenting white wines will avoid or
decrease the bentonite doses for reaching protein stability. Although the
crystals from the tartaric acid stability are easier to understand for the con-
sumer, some strains that produce increase levels of mannoproteins will
improve the prevention of crystal formation in the bottle of a young wine.
The other excellent tool we have today for bottling and to decrease or avoid
the use of SO2 is the availability of inert gasses of very good quality such as
argon, N2 and CO2. Manipulation of the wines after vinification and during
bottling under these gasses will improve all the steps of preventing flavor oxi-
dation and microbial stability.
7. Concluding remarks
In this chapter, we try to attract attention to the important concept of
low input technologies to protect flavor of the main fermented beverage,
wine. Many of the concepts discussed here are well applied to other fer-
mented beverages such as cider, beer, sake or yogurt. Flavors are very light
molecules, and it is easy to understand that the less we manipulate the pro-
cesses during fermentation and the finished end product, the less flavors we
will lose. Fermented foods are growing all around the planet, as they are
proved to be healthier than many non-fermented products. This is not only
due to the increase of probiotic flora that contribute to human and animal
microbiota but also because of the fact that microbes are growing in a raw
material and this ensures the absence of potential risky agrochemicals.
Furthermore and not less important, the sensory characteristics of the raw
Yeasts for low input winemaking 113
Fig. 6 Understanding the terroir and low input winemaking technologies will allow us
to show and search for the true particular characteristics of our regional wines. As we
discussed, although we can be close to other vineyards, our natural resources and sit-
uations are different, as we explained in this figure with some examples of climate, air,
soil, etc., and showing that the natural microflora might be affected by commercial yeast
additions, as one of the effects of human technology inputs. In this chapter, we have
presented some ideas for working with friendly native selected yeasts that will lead
a particular microbiota to grow and influence the sensory profile of a wine. As it was
recently discussed by Pretorius (2020), we can classify yeast into five distinct groups:
native (naturally occurring in your vines), settlers (colonizing your winery), nomads
(commercial starters), mannequins (lab yeasts models) and avatars (semisynthetic or
genetically modified).
harvest food are enriched with many secondary compounds, mainly flavors
produced by the microbial flora that participate in the fermentation process.
So, there are healthy and sensory explanations—both the most important
traits and the buying forces that, today, are considered by consumers to enjoy
food. In Fig. 6, we show a general scheme of the concept of terroir and low
input winemaking. We have shown many examples of how the principles of
low input winemaking can be understood and how a winemaker can
improve his strategy for competing in this massive wine market—by leaving
the natural terroir to express itself in wines though its flavor phenotype.
114 Francisco Carrau et al.
Acknowledgments
This work was funded by the Comisión Sectorial de Investigación Cientı́fica (CSIC-UdelaR)
Group Project no. 656 and the CSIC Productive Sector, Project no. 602 of UdelaR,
Uruguay, the Agencia Nacional de Investigación e Innovación (ANII) Hanseniaspora
vineae FMV 6956 project and the Alianza Project ANII with Lage y Cia Uruguay/
Oenobrands France, for the application of new non-Saccharomyces yeasts. We would like
to thank our family wineries that made it possible to use their facilities for many years of
experimentation and practical winemaking and to dedicate part of our time and
knowledge to the academic wine community (F.C. Bodega Cerro Chapeu-Castel Pujol;
E.B. Bodega Bouza Boutique; Ramey Wine Cellars).
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