Redfish Issue #18, 2013.

Choosing fish from your LFS

Tropical Marine Cichlids

Barbs - an introduction! Snorkelling in subtropical Sydney! the Chocolate Cichlid!

Redfish contents redfishmagazine.com.au

4 About

5 Off the Shelf

Email: [email protected]
6 Reader’s Tanks Web: redfishmagazine.com.au
Facebook: facebook.com/redfishmagazine
Twitter: @redfishmagazine
9 Beautiful Barbs
Redfish Publishing. Pty Ltd.
PO Box 109 Berowra Heights,
21 The Chocolate Cichlid NSW, Australia, 2082.
ACN: 151 463 759
23 The Ar t of Fish Shopping
Eye Candy Contents Page Photos cour tesy:

27 Clovelly Bay Snorkelling (Top row. Left to Right)

‘orange fish’ by Joel Kramer
38 Community listing ‘Tomini Tang’ by Nomore3xfive @ flickr
‘Flame Hawkfish’ by Nomore3xfive @ flickr
‘Iguana, Galapagos’ by Kathy (kthypryn @ flickr)
‘Arowana’ by Cod _Gabriel @ flickr

(Bottom row. Left to Right)

‘Ray’ by Cod_Gabriel @ flickr
‘mushrooms’ by Nomore3xfive @ flickr
‘Barcelona aquarium’ by Alain Feulvarch
‘starfish’ by Ryan Vaarsi
‘Online033 Aquarium’ by Neil McCrae
 The Fine Print
Redfish Magazine

General Advice Warning

The advice contained in this publication is
general in nature and has been prepared
without understanding your personal situ-
ation, experience, setup, livestock and/or
environmental conditions.

This general advice is not a substitute for,

or equivalent of, advice from a professional
aquarist, aquarium retailer or veterinarian.

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About Redfish Opinions & Views

Opinions and views contained herein are
those of the authors of individual ar ticles
and are not necessarily those
Redfish is a free-to-read magazine of Redfish Publishing.
for fishkeeping enthusiasts.
Ownership and copyright
Redfish Magazine is © 2011
At Redfish we believe in the free exchange of information to
Redfish Publishing. Pty Ltd.
facilitate success by aquarium and pond hobbyists. Each month PO Box 109 Berowra Heights,
Redfish Magazine will bring you dedicated sections on tropical, NSW, Australia, 2082.
coldwater, marine and ponds. ACN: 151 463 759

Redfish was founded in early 2011 by Jessica Drake,

Nicole Sawyer, Julian Corlet and David Midgley.

We hope you enjoy this, the 18th issue of Redfish.

古池や蛙飛込む水の音
ふるいけやかわずとびこむみずのおと

Photo courtesy: (matt)

About « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 4
 Off the Shelf
Aqua One Xpression Nano Aquarium
The Xpression Nano Aquarium
is the ideal star ter aquarium
with its compact size and stylish
looks, it is the perfect addition
to any home or office.

The LED lighting and included

filter ensure a brighter, clearer
and more energy efficient
aquarium while you enjoy the
visually stunning spectrum that is
the colourful fish and ornaments
contained within the aquarium.

Aqua One products are widely

available at most quality pet
retailers. To find your nearest
retailer, visit www.aquaone.com.
au

Aqua One ThermoSub Substrate Heating Cable

Keep fresh and beautiful looking plants with Aqua One’s

ThermoSub Substrate Heating Cable!

The cable helps to maintain a substrate temperature

slightly higher than the aquarium water which increases
plant metabolism and in turn increases uptake of nutri-
ents, providing faster growth and less excess nutrients in
the water column.

The temperature difference helps bring nutrients to plant

roots where they are more readily adsorbed than through
the leaves providing a long-term healthy environment for
your plants and fish!

Aqua One products are widely available at most qual-

ity pet retailers. To find your nearest retailer, visit www.
aquaone.com.au

Off the shelf « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 5

Reader’s Tanks
Photos by Shane Canellis
Reef tank:
by Shane Canellis
* Set up in August 2011
* Tank is 1200x600x600 with a total
system volume of approximately 530
litres.
* Sump size is 1100x450x450

* Filtration:
40kg of live rock in the tank and a
shallow 1-2 cm” sandbed.
200micron filter sock
GAC in a TLF 150 reactor.
* Skimmer: Vertex Alpha 200 with
Vertex Vectra self cleaning head
* Water movement: 2 x Ecotech Vortech
MP40WES
Return pump is an Ehiem compact 3000
Chiller pump is an Ehiem compact 2000

* Lighting: 3 x Ecotech Radion LED’s set to

natural mode. Sunrise 9am, Sunset 10pm.

* Water parameters:
Temp: 26-27 degrees
Salinity: 35ppt
Alk: 9.0dkh
Ca: 440ppm
Mg: 1300ppm
No3: 1 - 2.5ppm
Po4: 0.02
pH: 8.2
K: 407ppm

* Additives: Vodka and vinegar is dosed via

dosing pump for nutrient control.
Randy’s recipe # 1 for maintaining the major 3
parameters.
Korallen Zucht Bio Mate twice a week.
Bio Digest Prodibio once a fortnight.
100% Reef Safe Amino Acids added daily.
Korallen Zucht Flatworm Stop dosed daily.
Potassium Chloride for maintaining K level.

* Fish:
1 x Zebrasoma flavescens - Yellow Tang
1 x Ctenochaetus strigosus - Kole Tang
1 x Siganus corallinus - Coral Rabbitfish
1 x Salarias fasciatus - Lawnmower Blenny
1 x Labroides dimidiatus - Bluestreak Cleaner
Readers Tanks « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 6
Wrasse
1 x P. hexataenia - Six line wrasse
2 x Amphiprion ocellaris - Ocellaris Clownfish
1 x H. melanurus - Melanurus Wrasse
1 x Macropharyngodon choati - Choats
Wrasse

* Coral:
Seriatopora hystrix , Acropora sp., Millepora
sp., Poccilopora sp., Montipora sp., Acanthas-
trea lordhowensis, Porites, Turbinaria sp.

* Other inverts:
11 x L. wurdemanni - Peppermint Shrimp
4 x Strombus spp. - Stromb Snail
1 x Trochus sp. - Trochus Snail
?? x Turbo spp. - Turbo Snail
S. giganteus - Christmas tree worms

* Maintenance:
I clean the glass every second day.
Clean filter sock, skimmer cup daily.
Thorough check of all equipment daily.
Monthly vinegar clean of Vortech wet ends,
skimmer pump. Weekly water change of 20%
with natural salt water. All up I spend about an
hour each day and 4 hours during the week-
end testing and doing the water change.

I’m a bit pedantic with testing. I usually test

for Alkalinity every second to third day en-
Photos by Shane Canellis
suring stability. I find stability of Alkalinity to
be most important with SPS. All other testing
is done weekly, or more frequently if I suspect something is a little out.

by Shane Canellis

Planted Community Tank -- “River of the World

by Adil Chaouki Photo by Adil Chaouki

Readers Tanks « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 7

Aquarium: 120x45x50cm Glass 12mm without reinforcements,
Lighting: DIY LED SMD 5050 100W - 9h/Day,
Filtration: external 1100L / Hr
CO2 injection reactor DIY external - 1bules/seconde,
Fertilization: Iron & Potassium
Sets: Branch Wood & cosmetic sand,
Plants: Hygrophilia “stricta” Hygrophilia polysperma, Java moss, fern java Anubia Nana Anubia bar-
teri, Cryptocorine, Ludwigia gladulosa, red lotus, cabomba,
Fish: P. ramirezi, Harlequin Rasbora, Cardinal Tetra, P.pulcher

Large species Mixed Freshwater

by Sean Sop
This tank contains a 15”inch bala shark and
pleco in the pic as well as 3 albino tiger os-
cars, 2 regular tiger oscars ,2 jack dempseys,
2 striped convicts , 2 kissing gouramis ,1 parrot
fish and 1 silver dollar!

It is filtered by two external penguin 300 fil-

ters , has 2 heaters with some air bubble walls
for extra breathing support!
Photo by Sean Sop

Large species Mixed Marine

by Stefan Bartanusz
The tank is about 490 us gal, it is 3 1/2 feet
deep, 5feet long and whole frame of the
tank height is 9ft, tank is about 5ft high.
The sump is in the basement under the tank.
As of now I have about 18 fish min size is 5
inch. The tank contains ~600 lb of live
rock and 200 lb of sand. Tank is made out of
3/4 inch good quality plywood and also glass
is 3/4 of an inch thick. It is all reinforced with
glue, screws, fiber, and sweetwater epoxy.
The whole tank is framed with 2/4s boards so
it does not flex from pressure. The lights are
4x banks of LEDs.
The pump which circulates the whole tank is
Photos by Stefan Bar tanusz
2547g/h. Inside the tank I have about 18,000
g/h circulation. I run skimmers rated up to an
800 gal tank and use aUV sterilizer to keep the water clean. I do 4x150 gallon water changes a year.
Also add clean RO water in every other day 5 gal. It’is Very easy to take care of this tank.

First Planted Aquarium Photo by Donavan Leher

by Donavan Leher
Donavan sent this photo without any information about
the aquarium - but as they say, a picture is worth a 1000
words - and this a beautiful aquarium!!

If you have an aquarium you’would like to see featured,

email a photo and some information to our editor at:
[email protected]
Readers Tanks « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 8
Beautiful Barbs

Strikingly Red, the Odessa Barb is a beautiful fish. Photo by Budi Lukman.
Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 9
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Most, but not all barbs, are included in the genus Puntius. The genus hails from Asia with species being
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found throughout Southern Asia, India and Sri Lanka.
Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 10
Taxonomy
The barbs are an artificial assemblage
of fishes within the family Cyprinidae.
The name ‘Barb’ is derived from the
genus in which many aquarium barbs
were originally placed: Barbus. Recent
taxonomic revisions have variously
moved many Barbus species into (and
back out of) other genera including
Barbodes, Capoeta and Puntius.

Today the taxonomy of the group is the subfamily that contains most barbs is sister to the well
far from settled and in this article I’ve known Danios. African Barbs, such as Barbus fasciolatus,
used the taxonomic system used by are sometimes treated as a separate subfamily (Labeoni-
fishbase.org. This system places most nae), although this taxonomy is not universally accepted.
Asian aquarium barbs in the genus
Puntius. The genus Puntius contains
some 120 species many of which are ideal aquarium residents.

Sri Lanka’s Horton Plains National Park is home to an array of barbs including the Two Spot Barb, Black
ruby Barb, Cherry Barb and Black-lined Barb.
Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 »11
Distribution
The vast majority of barbs occur in Southern
Asia, India and Sri Lanka. Some species do oc-
cur in southern Europe and Africa, though the
group is absent from the Americas and Austra-
lia. In their natural habitat Asian barbs gener-
ally dominate the “small fishes” niche, much as
tetras and dwarf cichlids do in South America.
This article focuses on Asian barbs, though sev-
eral infrequently available African barbs, notably
Barbus fasciolatus and Barbus callipterus, are
also worth keeping if you if can obtain stock.

Barbs occupy a range of niches throughout The iconic Tiger Barb occurs through the Malay
Asia: occurring in lakes, rivers and streams Peninsula, Sumatra and Borneo. It has a reputation
along with man-made ecosystems such as rice for being nippy, and while they can be - keeping
paddies. There are barbs that live in rapids, the species in a large group (> 6 individuals) helps
such as the Asoka Barb (Puntius asoka), while minimise the impact of this behaviour. Better still, a
most species prefer slower moving water. These large school of Tiger Barbs look great and make big
slow-water environments are typically closer to impact in the display freshwater aquarium.
stream edges and in backwaters and eddies.

Lemon fin barbs are somtimes available in the aquarium hobby. This species, formerly known by hobbyists
as Barbus daruphani is more correctly Hypsibarbus wetmorei. It’s a larger growing species that can reach
lengths of 25cm. The species occurs in Maeklong, Mekong and Chao Phraya basins. Photo by Mike Atkins.

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 12

Destruction of Peat Swamp Forests in Asia
threatens the environment of many Pun-
tius species. Mostly, these forests are being
cleared for the planting of commericial oil
palm (Elaeis guineensis) production.

PHOTOS:
Borneo peat swamp forests seen burning from a sat-
ellite. Photo by NASA.
Puntius hexazona by Budi Lukman.

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 13

Feeding and ecology
Most barbs are omnivores and as such eat both
plant and animal material. In the aquarium at
least they leave most plants alone though some
species have a tendency to chew on the edges
of soft-leaved plants. In the wild most barbs
are opportunistic and feed on insect larvae,
small annelid worms, eggs and fry of other fish
when available. When animal foods are not
available most species will consume more plant
material and even algae.

Small barbs are frequently consumed by larger

barbs – some of which reach more than 50 cm! Chitala blanci (Royal Knifefish) co-occurs in Asia with
-- along with other Asian predators such as barb species on which it feeds. Photo Peter Potrowl.
catfishes (notably bagrids and clariids), snake-
heads (Channa spp.), knifefishes (Notopterus
spp.), nandids, arrowanas (Scleropages formo-
sus) and various sleeper gobies (family Eleotri-
dae).

Keeping
Prior to saying anything else about keeping
barbs there’s one important rule that is worth
keeping in mind. All barbs are schooling fish.
This necessitates that you keep at least six indi-
viduals (10-12 would be better) of each species
in an aquarium. If you can’t house this number,
I’d advise you to move on to non-schooling Insect larvae, including mosquito larvae, and small
fishes. Thankfully, barbs come in an assortment worms are relished by most small Puntius species.
of sizes so keeping a small group is manage- Photo by James Gathany, CDC.
able in most aquariums. I’ve provided some
better (and worse) selections in the tables at
the end of this article.
Aquarium size is also important. I consider
40-80 litres to be a minimum aquarium volume
for tropical fish. For the small barbs (Table 1)
this size aquarium would be adequate for 6-14
individuals and some associated clean-up fish.
For larger barbs (Table 2), 120-200 litres should
be considered a minimum. Schools of Spanner
or T-bar Barbs, at almost 18 cm, would require
a larger aquarium. For the well-being of the
fish, and for aesthetic reasons, it’s generally
better to have one large group of one species,
than three smaller groups of different species.
In aquascaping, like gardening and interior One of the smallest barb species, the Cherry Barb
(this is a male) only grows to a few centimetres. Its
design, repetition equals impact!
small size is not its only attribute that is desirable.
Indeed, it is brightly coloured and arguably the most
Most barbs require neutral, to slightly acidic, placid species in the Puntius genus.
water which while not soft, isn’t hard either. Photo by Brian Gratwicke.

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 14

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 15

The barb aquarium is awash with colour and movement!

Table 1: Barbs for the beginner
Common name Scientific name Size Origin Comments
Cherry barb Puntius titteya 5 Sri Lanka Cherry barbs are perhaps the perfect
choice for beginners. Peaceful, beautiful
and readily available. Females and males
are easily distinguished by their colour.
Checker barb Puntius oligolepis 5 Sumatra, Indo- Checker barbs are less brightly coloured
nesia than most other barbs, but a large group
of these beautiful fish still make an im-
pact!
Greenstripe barb Puntius vittatus 5 India, Pakistan Like the checker barb, the greenstripe
and Sri Lanka barb is a subtly coloured fish, again the
best use is in a large group.
Two-spot barb Puntius cumingii 6 Sri Lanka Two black spots on a bronze-green body
make the two-spot barb a very attractive
addition to the community aquarium.
Black ruby barb Puntius nigrofasciatus 6 Sri Lanka Probably the most beautiful of the
smaller barb, black ruby barbs are a stun-
ning fish!
Five-banded barb Puntius pentazona 6 India Not to be confused with the superficially
similar tiger barb, the five-banded barb is
a peaceful, almost shy species that ben-
efits from dense planting in the aquari-
um. Ideal for aquarists wanting tiger barb
looks without tiger barb problems.
Melon barb Puntius fasciatus 6 India, Burma, Looking a little like juvenile spanner
Indonesia barbs, melon barbs are a beautifully
striped species for the aquarium.
Gold barb Puntius semifascio- 7 China Gold barbs are readily available in almost
latus every retail aquarium Australia-wide.
Their striking colour develops further as
they age.
Two-spot barb, Red- Puntius bimaculatus 7 India and Sri While this species shares a common name
side barb Lanka with P. cumingii, this species looks very
different -- it’s not as deep bodied and is
more elongated. The two black spots are
on the caudal peduncle and dorsal fin.

There’s a subtle beauty to the Checker Barb (Puntius oligolepis). Dismissed by many an aquarist as just an-
other grey fish the species is peaceful, interestingly patterned and a delight to sit and watch.
Photo by Budi Lukman.
Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 16
Table 2: Larger Barbs
Common name Scientific name Size Origin Comments
Striped barb Puntius johorensis 10 Burma, Indone- The striped barb is probably my favou-
sia, Malaysia and rite barb species that’s readily available
Thailand in Australia. Numerous black stripes run
horizontally along the length of the fish.
In a group of 10-15 individuals this is an
amazing addition to the planted aquari-
um. Sometimes listed as P. lineatus.
Arulius barb Puntius arulius 12 India Arulius barbs are the ugly ducklings of the
aquarium trade. Rarely do such unimpres-
sive juveniles grow into such magnificent
adults. With their elongated filaments on
the dorsal fin a group of arulius can make
a great visual impact!
Rosy barb Puntius conchonius 14 Afghanistan, Ban- Rosy barbs are a subtropical species and
gladesh, Burma, can tolerate temperatures down to 18º C.
India, Nepal, They are a large barb (reaching 14 cm),
Pakistan though most aquarium individuals only
reach 7-8 cm. Avoid the unusual colour
morphs of this species as they are less
hardy than the “wild” colouration.
Clown barb Puntius everetti 14 Borneo, Sumatra This species has a superficial, yet unmis-
takable similarity to the clown loach. It’s
a large growing species, which like all
barbs is best in groups.
Red line torpedo Puntius denisonii 15 India Above all other barbs discussed in this
barb, Denison barb article, the red line torpedo barb is prob-
ably the most fashionable barb at pres-
ent. With its elongate shape and bright
red stripes it looks more a raspora or
scissortail than a barb.
Spanner barb, T-barb Puntius lateristriga 18 Burma, Indone- Spanner barbs are stout-bodied, large
sia, Malaysia and growing barbs that are ideal with mid-
Thailand sized unaggressive cichlids such as Heros
severus. They have an interesting T
pattern on their flanks which gives rise to
their common name: t-barb.

Where the Checker Barb is a classic MG, the Red Line Torpedo Barb is the Lamborghini of the genus Puntius.
Adapted for fast-flowing water the species has a sleek, elongate body complete with racing stripes.
Photo by Budi Lukman.
Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 17
Table 3: Barbs for more experienced hobbyists
Common name Scientific name Size Origin Comments
Tiger barb Puntius tetrazona 7 Borneo, Sumatra Beautiful and feisty, tiger barbs are
responsible for the majority of bad press
given to barbs. Can nip fins. Keep in
groups of 12-20 individuals in aquaria
large enough to house such a group. Avoid
including any slow-moving species or
species with long fins with tiger barbs.
Several varieties (green mossy, albino
etc) are available, though most are, in
the author’s opinion, not an improvement
on the beauty of the wild form.
Orange buffalo barb Puntius rhomboocel- 6 Borneo Puntius rhomboocellatus is a beautiful
latus species of barb that unfortunately can be
challenging to keep. The species requires
soft, acidic water and is best kept in
densely planted aquariums. As such the
species can be housed with South Ameri-
can dwarf cichlids and hardier tetras.
Asoka barb Puntius asoka 17 Sri Lanka This species of barb is endangered in
the wild so only captive bred individu-
als should be purchased. The asoka barb
is an attractively spotted shark-like fish
that requires fast water movement in the
aquarium. Best kept with other rheophilic
species such as lionhead cichlids, loaches
and suckermouthed catfishes.
Tinfoil barb Barbonymus 30 Burma, Indone- Small tinfoil barbs are sometimes avail-
schwanenfeldii sia, Malaysia and able to hobbyists. This attractive fish
Thailand grows much too large for most aquarists
reaching over 30 cm in length. Despite its
size it’s a peaceful, though sensitive spe-
cies. The requirement for the species to
be kept in group further complicates the
space requirements of the species.

The beautiful Orange Buffalo Barb is a relative newcomer to the hobby, but it can be somewhat tricky to
care for succesfully in the longterm. Avoid it if you’re new to this group of fish.
Photo by Budi Lukman.

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 18

Thankfully in Australia, most municipal water
supplies are ideal for this hardy group of
fishes and do not require modification other
than the removal of chlorine and chloramine
using a good quality water ager. Most spe-
cies come from relatively slow-moving water
and this should be reflected in the choice of
water current provided in the aquarium. In
aquariums with powerful filters, water cur-
rent can be slowed via the use of dissipating
add-ons such as spray bars that reduce uni-
directional current. For the most part Asian
barbs are tropical fishes and will do well in
water temperatures of 22-28º C, though Provided suitable quateres to accomodate for their
some species, such as the rosy barb, will larger size, Spanner Barbs do well in aquariums and
tolerate lower temperatures. are placid residents best kept with larger fish.

As for all tropical fishes, the aquarium setup

should mimic the natural habitat. Such rep-
lication can be easily achieved using Asian
aquatic plants such as crypts (Cryptocorne
spp.) and Java fern (Microsorum pteropus).
I’ve also seen asian-style aquariums with
4cm diam. bamboo canes included in the
background that look very effective (despite
the actual absence of any aquatic species of
bamboo). There are numerous species that
are well suited to co-habit with barbs includ-
ing larger tetras, West African dwarf cichlids,
Corydoras catfish and the like. If you’re look- Sawbwa barb (Sawbwa resplendens) is an unusual
ing to maintain an Asian theme – why not and rare barb, endemic to Inle Lake in Burma.
consider other Asian fishes such as raspo- Photo by: The Man On The Street at en.wikipedia
ras and loaches. To avoid using American
sucker-mouthed catfishes for algae clean-
up, both the sucking loach -- Gyrinocheilus
aymonieri -- (also called the chinese algae
eater) and the Siamese algae eater (Cros-
socheilus siamensis) are useful additions to
the aquarium. The
former should be
added alone, while
the latter in a small
school.

Barbs are, for the

most part, unfussy
feeders that will
A large group of Tinfoil Barbs (Barbonymus
consume most offer- schwanenfeldii) in a European aquarium.
ings provided by the Photo by Eva (waterlily78 @ flickr)
aquarist. Be sure to
provide your barbs

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 19

with a variety of high quality food items. Pre-
pared diets are suitable; though only buy small
amounts, as fish food tends to lose vitamins
and quality after lengthy storage. Similarly,
frozen and parasite-free live foods are also ac-
ceptable. When provided with clean water, high
quality foods and a stress-free existence, breed-
ing is generally less difficult.

Breeding
Like many other cyprinids, barbs are egg scat- With colours like these, it’s little wonder barbs are
tering fishes that show no brood care and will aquarium favourites!
actively eat their own eggs, after spawning,
given the opportunity. Breeding barbs there-
fore necessitates a dedicated breeding aquarium.
The requirements for each species are broadly
similar, though the details of age of maturity,
spawning cues and the like differ. For a hypo-
thetical, generic barb the ideal breeding aquar-
ium therefore should be setup as follows: The
breeding aquarium should contain well-cycled,
aged water that is identical to that in the dis-
play aquarium in which the barbs are normally
housed. It should include a base which allows
eggs to be safe from their parents. Such a base
can be achieved using large marbles (which ex-
clude the adults) or a spawning grid suspended
from the base of the aquarium. It should also
include dense Java moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri Puntius bimaculatus (Red-side or Two-spot barb).
syn. Versicularia dubyana) that assists the Photo by Anandara J Kumar
spawning pair to feel comfortable and further
provides some protection to the eggs. A sponge
filter, powered by an air pump, should provide the filtration for the breeding setup.

Choose a courting pair of barbs from the display aquarium and transfer them to the breeding
aquarium. For some species it can be advantageous to separate the females for a few days prior
to the males to allow them to “plump up” with eggs. Depending on the species the pair should
be left in the breeding aquarium until spawning is completed (usually this is for 0.5 to 3 days).
The eggs of most barbs species are relatively large and the fry will be able to feed on either
newly hatched brine shrimp, microworms or powdered flake foods soon after hatching. Hatching
for most species takes between two and five days. Within 12-16 weeks the fry of most species
resemble the adults.

Close
The barbs are a diverse and interesting group of fishes. Kept in community, species-only, or
Asian biotype aquariums they can be a stunning addition to the home aquarium. Finally remem-
ber to keep all barbs in groups of six or more and you’ll be rewarded with hardy, spectacular
fish!

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 20

The

Chocolate
Cichlid
Introduction:
The chocolate cichlid is another of South Americas underrated species. This is a large cichlid (20-
30cm) which is quite gentle natured, despite its size. This, however, should not suggest that they
should be housed with small fishes such as neon tetras - which they will readily consume.

The tank should be well planted with tough indigestable species, such as java fern and anubias. If
possible, plants should be placed such that the tank can only be viewed from one side, this helps
to reduce the stress the cichlid feels at being “exposed” to predators. In addition the tank should
be furnished with wood, dark subrstrate and floating plants. The dark substrate and floating
plant cover help fur ther to calm this nervous cichlid.

There are some repor ts that this fish will leap out of the water to catch flying insects - as such
tight fitting (and adequately thick) tank lids are required.

The species is reasonably sensitive to dissolved metal ions (from pipes) and as such peat filtration
may be helpful in chelating some of these free ions. The species is known to fall ill to a variety of
“pitting” diseases when metal ion concentrations are too high.

Species:
Hypselecara temporalis
(Gunther, 1862)

Synoma:
Acara crassa, Heros goel-
dii, H. crassa, Cichlasoma
hellabrunni, Cichlasoma
temporalis

Origin:
South America, wide-
spread, Amazon river
drainages. Some variation
does exist in populations
along the length of the Photo by Budi Lukman
Amazon.
Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 21
 Photo by Budi Lukman

Natural habitat:
Stagnant, generally in white water 0.5 - 2.0m deep. The species has, however, also been found in
black and clear water habitats. In almost all cases the species is found under floating plant cover
in dim light.

Water chemistry in the

wild:
pH 6.0 - 7.2; gH - < 1 de-
gree; kH - < 1 degree; con-
ductivity 127 microsemens
(@26 °C)

Husbandry:
H. temporalis is a relatively
peaceful cichlid and will tol-
erate other peaceful species.
Other Chocolates should be
removed once a pair forms.
The species is an unfussy
In the wild, Chocolate cichlids are found in vegetation-covered waters that are slow-
feeder, but some vegetable moving. The use of floating plants (where the law permits) in aquariums is useful in
content should be included. recreating the habitat of this majestic species.
Breeding is straightforward
once a pair has formed. They are typical open spawning cichlids. Pairs may eat their clutch if
uncomfor table so ensure they have adequate cover. Fry should be removed once they are free-
swimming and feeding well on crushed flake/pellet foods. Chocolate cichlids are a joy to keep --
they may not be be brightest coloured species - but they are facsinating never theless.

Tropical « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 22

the art of fish shopping
a redfish guide for the new aquarist

Opinion « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 23

So you’ve headed to the shops, you have got that commu-
nity tank back at home; it clearly needs some new inhabit-
ants. But what to put in and how do you choose good stock
once you’ve decided what to add?
Speak to most experienced hobbyists, those people really, really into their fish, and they’ll
tell you that you should know the fish you want before you walk into the store – and you
shouldn’t make any impulse purchases. I think this is probably over the top, and if you’re
shopping with a trusted retailer (and I advise you to seek one out!) the staff at stores can
frequently help with your purchase – even when you know relatively little about your pur-
chase. Here’s a quick guide to choosing fish and a local fish store that hopefully will help to
avoid purchasing fish in poor condition or those species that are unsuited to your setup or
level of experience.

Choosing a store
When I look for a local aquarium, somewhat perversely I’m encouraged by what isn’t for
sale or on display. Every store and every aquarist has purchased fish that aren’t in the
best health. In good aquariums, these fish aren’t for sale. Sometimes there’s a note on the
aquarium declaring “not for sale”, sometimes staff will steer you away from a purchase ex-
plaining that those fish are recovering or being treated. This is great sign that you’re going
to have positive experiences.

Fish with obvious signs of disease, like this cichlid with White Spot (caused by the protozoan Ichthyophthi-
rius multifiliis), should be avoided. Some species eg. Clown Loaches and Tangs are particularly prone to this
and similar infections. A good local fish store can assist you in avoiding these parasites!
Opinion « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 24
 This Betta has a severe Velvet infection. Looking for signs of disease not only helps you avoid a bad pur-
chase, but protects the fish at home in your existing setup from the introduction of parasites.

“somewhat perversely I’m often encouraged by what

isn’t for sale or on display” -- good aquarium staff will tell you what not to buy!

Take your time in the aquarium, look around at the stock for sale, introduce yourself and
your interests, discuss your situation, expertise and current aquarium residents with the
staff. Again, being steered away from a purchase that’s not a good match for you and your
aquarium is a positive sign that you’re dealing with a good aquarium store. Of course, the
fundamentals: clean premises, memberships to relevant ethical societies, no dead fish on
display, tanks not overcrowded all apply – but take these last points with a grain of salt.
I’ve seen perfect-looking, spotless aquariums from which I wouldn’t purchase and I’ve seen
the reverse. It can’t be stressed enough that a good retailer is worth their weight in gold.
They’re keen to see you succeed in the long term, not just for some purchase today – it’s
in their interest!

Choosing fish
While I said above that the hobbyist mantra to research your fish prior to purchase can be
a bit over the top, it’s also universally a good idea. Thankfully, the internet means you’ve
the collective wisdom of thousands of aquarists at your beck and call, and if you’re armed
with a smart phone it certainly doesn’t hurt to have a quick look at the maximum size and

Opinion « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 25

husbandry notes for that fish that you
just have to buy. If you’re in the store I
described above, choosing fish is remark-
ably easy. Ask the staff for good choices
and you’ll be guided to healthy, active and
suitable residents for your aquarium. Sad-
ly, not everyone has that local fish store
– so if you’re feeling a bit alone in your de-
cision making, here’s what I look for prior
to purchase: Look for fish with a full but
not bloated belly. Don’t just look at the
one individual you’re interested in, have a
look over the whole tank. Are all the fish
behaving normally? Are there any signs of
sick fish or odd behaviour? Avoid fish with
even minor injuries – these often recover,
but they are best left with experts. Dis-
ease often manifests itself subtly – look
for small spots on the fishes flanks, red-
ness about the gills or lesions anywhere on
the body. These are signs of poor fish health
and such individuals shouldn’t be added to
your display aquarium. Two of the poster children for bad purchases. The
Redtail Catfish and the Oscar -- both are fine in the
Success with your aquarium starts with good care of experienced hobbyists, but make very poor
stock. Find yourself a good store – with good additions to the community aquarium!
Photo (top): Elma (úlfhams víkingur)
stock and you’ll have a good experience.
Photo (bottom): Daniella Vereeken

Which Goldfish do you choose? Pick an active individual, that’s brightly coloured without any signs of dis-
ease. The fancier varieties tend not to be as hardy (though this isn’t always true).

Opinion « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 26

Clovelly Bay
snorkelling
by Jessica Drake

Marine « Redfish Magazine 2012:17 » 25

When you think of great places to snor-
kel, where you might be able to swim
with a multitude of brightly coloured
fish, you’d probably immediately think
of tropical waters. The temperate ma-
rine environment found in the waters of
Sydney, Australia may not quite rival the
colour and diversity of the Great Barrier
Reef, but there is more to be found here
than you might think. Clovelly Bay, in the
Eastern suburbs of Sydney, is a remark-
able place to snorkel.

It is a long narrow bay which has a rock

wall at the ocean end of the bay. Al-
though the rock wall does not protrude
above the surface it does provide a bar-
rier which dissipates the ocean waves
and forms a large calm pool which is
essentially as close as you’ll get to a SCUBA divers at Clovelly Bay.
Photo by Mados
“natural aquarium”. This area is at the www.flickr.com/people/mados/

Clovelly Bay, in temperate Sydney’s eastern suburbs, is a popular spot for beach goers and snorkellers.
This is due to its narrow but deep channel with a rock wall blocking the more extreme ocean currents.

Marine « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 28

very southern end of the distribution for
many tropical species of fish and also at
the northern end of distribution for many
southern temperate species, so a very
diverse range can be seen.

The fish in the bay are well used to a

constant stream of swimmers and snor-
kellers and as a result most are very
tame. Highlights of a tour of the bay
include:

The Eastern Blue Groper (Achoerodus

viridis) for which the bay is famed. De-
spite the common name, these fish are
actually a large species of wrasse. All
juveniles are olive coloured females,
with the largest, most dominant fish in
a given territory becoming a spectacular
blue male. They can reach a length of Curious and sociable the Blue Groper often swims
close to divers and snorkellers and will feed from the
1.2 metres and may weigh as much as hand. These large wrasses are often accompanied by
22kg. They are generally bold fish which a host of smaller fish feeding on leftovers!
are quite happy to be hand fed by hu- Photo by lennyk410.
www.flickr.com/photos/57527070@N06/

The beautiful Blue Groper (Achoerodus viridis) is a popular resident of Clovelly Bay.

Marine « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 29

 Blue gropers are protgynous hermaphrodites. All juveniles are female and are differently coloured to the
adults. Despite the name, Blue Gropers aren’t gropers, they are a large species of wrasse, the Eastern blue
gropers grows to 1.2 m (3.9’) in length and weights of 22 kg (49 lb).

mans. In the following pages you’ll see

photos of both the current large domi-
nant male of Clovelly Bay and also a
large subdominant female. She still has
an olive coloured body but is already
starting to display tinges of blue on her
head. Should anything happen to the
dominant male she will quickly change
sex and colour and become a blue male
herself.

There are many smaller wrasse species

to be found in the bay. These include the
Redspot Wrasse (Stethojulis bandanen-
sis), a tropical species which just man-
ages to extend its distribution to Sydney
and the Senator Wrasse (Pictilabrus
laticlavius) which although colourful, is
actually a temperate species. The Pearly
Blue Gropers leave a trail of eaten Black Sea Urchins Wrasse (Halichoeres margaritaceus)
(Centrostephanus rodgersii) in their wake. has bright green spangled scales which
Photo by Mados sparkle in the sunlight.
www.flickr.com/people/mados/

Marine « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 30

Snorkelling Clovelly Bay, Sydney, Australia.
Marine « Redfish Magazine 2013:18» 31
Large schools of placid Luderick (Girella
tricuspidata) are happy to graze on the
rocks and will rarely scatter as people
swim by. Other vegetarians found in
large numbers on the rocks are the
Sea Hares (of the Aplysidae family - in
Sydney, several Dolabella species are
found), which are a type of sea slug.
With careful observation amongst the
crevices in the rocks, you may find
smaller species of colourful nudibranchs
as well as a shy octopus or two.

Small groups of Flutemouths (Fistularia

commersonii), which are relatives of
An olive coloured female Blue Groper.
the pipefishes and seahorses, are fre-
quently found in the bay along with the
regular shoals of Silver Bream, various
Trevally species, Hula fish and Mados
but to name a few. Stingrays are gener-
ally easy to find in the deeper part of the
bay.

The Pygmy Leatherjacket, at only 9cm in

length for an adult, is one of the small-
est leatherjacket species and as such is
difficult to find, but is well worth looking
for. It has a disc shaped body and cam-
ouflages itself amongst the seaweed. It
is only found in Australia.

Sydney is in the southern end of the range of the very

pretty Redspot Wrasse (Stethojulis bandanensis).
Large submerged rocks at Clovelly Bay with a
host of larger fish species This species is kept in aquariums, but can be difficult
to maintain in the long term. It should probably be left
to experts with Wrasse or in the ocean!

Marine « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 32

 S B A N D R Y
HU
&
G
IN
L
D
N
HA

FI
S
H
CO L L E

ER
Y MANAGE
C T
IO

M
N

& N
E
H T
O L
D I N G
a group of juvenile Luderick (Girella tricuspidata) Luderick (Girella tricuspidata) grazing on seaweeds.

Flutemouths (Fistularia commersonii) are relatives of Various Trevally species (Carangoides) are frequently
pipefish and seahorses. Photo by Derek Keats seen in schools in Clovelly Bay.

Much maligned by fishermen the Toadfish (Tetract- Sergeant Majors (Abudefduf sp.) are common at
enos glaber) is a pretty species of pufferfish. Clovelly Bay. Members of the Damselfish family they
adapt well to captivity but are territorial.

Marine « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 34

a male Pearly Wrasse, Halichoeres margaritaceus. This small growing wrasse (to ~13cm) has a tropical distribu-
tion and most commonly found in northern parts of NSW. Temperate Sydney is most definitely at the southern
end of its distribution. It’s sometimes kept in aquariums.

Senator Wrasse (Pictilabrus laticlavius) are another Silver Bream (Acanthopagrus australis) are a common
colourful, and larger (to ~30cm) wrasse from Clovelly. sight at Clovelly and a favourite with anglers.

Sydney itself is a picturesque city with many wonderful sights and as such is a popular
tourist destination. Whether you happen to live here, or if you’re just visiting, a trip to see the
underwater marvels of Clovelly Bay’s “natural aquarium” is highly recommended for any
fish enthusiast.

Marine « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 35

 photo by Khantipol

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9765 2541, Burwood Gold Coast Aquarium http://www.aandtsociety.
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Perth. Community « Redfish Magazine 2013:18 » 38
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