Portable Miter Saw Station

Supplies
● (2) 1×2×8
● (2) 1×3×8
● (7) 1×4×8
● (1) 1×6×8
● (2) 2×4 sheets of ¾” plywood (you’ll have extra)
● 1-¼” Pocket Screws
● ¾” Wood Screws
● 1-¼” Wood Screws
● 1-½” Wood Screws
● 2” Wood Screws
● (2) ¼”×3-½” Lag Bolts
● (2) ¼”×2” Lag Bolts
● (5) ¼”×1-¼” Lag Bolts
● (12) 1-½” Lag Screws
● (56) ¼” Washers
● (8) ¼” Lock Nuts
● (1) ¼” Wing Nut
● (2) 12” Piano Hinges
● (4) 2” Casters (I used these)
● T-Track (I used this one)
NOTE: This plan contains affiliate links to supplies and tools. I may receive a
small commission if you make a purchase. There is no cost to you for using
these links. Thank you so much for your support.

Click here for the original tutorial

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Tools Step 1. Make the Sides

● Tape Measure Cut 4 pieces of 1x4 to 31-½” for the stiles. Cut 6 pieces of
● Drill 1x4 to 14-¼” for the rails and drill pocket holes in each end.
● Miter Saw 4 of these pieces will be used in this step and 2 pieces will
● Kreg Jig be used in Step 2.
● Compass
● Circular Saw (it’s helpful to have a Rip-Cut or Apply glue to the ends of 2 rails, position on 2 stiles and
Accu-Cut) clamp. Attach using 1-¼” pocket screws. Repeat for the
● Table Saw (optional) other side.
● Countersink Drill Bit
● Forstner Bits (¼”, ½” and ⅞”)

Notes
● By using this plan you are agreeing to all terms and conditions.
● This plan is for personal use only.
● Plans are the intellectual property of Saws on Skates® and may not
be duplicated or sold.
● By using these plans, you are agreeing to do so at your own risk.
● This plan contains affiliate links. I may receive a small commission if
you make a purchase. There is no cost to you for using these links.
Thank you for your support.

Safety First
● Please wear all personal protective equipment (PPE). Protect
your eyes with safety glasses, ears with hearing protection, and
lungs with a dust mask or respirator.
● Follow all safety instructions that come with your tools

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Step 2. Make the Bottom Step 3. Attach the Bottom

Cut 6 pieces of 1x4 to 26-¼” and drill pocket holes in each Apply glue to the edges of the bottom and clamp to the
end. 2 of these pieces will be used in this step and 4 pieces sides. Attach using 1-¼” pocket screws. Also, drill several
will be used in Step 4. countersink holes in the bottom rails of the sides and
attach using 1-¼” wood screws.
Apply glue to the ends of the 14-¼” pieces (from Step 1)
position on 2 of the 26-¼” pieces and clamp. Attach using
1-¼” pocket screws.

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Step 4. Attach the Rails Step 5. Attach the Top Supports

Apply glue to the rails (from Step 2), position on the sides Cut 4 pieces of 1x4 to 7”. Measure in 1” at the top and
and clamp. Attach using 1-¼” pocket screws. bottom. Connect the marks and cut an angle with a DIY
circular saw crosscut guide. Then use the diagram below to
drill pocket holes in each support. Be sure to make 2 right
supports and 2 left supports. This way the pocket holes
will face inward rather than outward.

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Step 5. Continued... Step 6. Make the Wing Frames

Apply glue to the edge of a top support, set in a ¼” from the Cut 4 pieces of 1x4 to 26-½”. Cut 4 pieces of 1x4 to 7-½” and
edge of the leg. On the inside of the leg measure down 6” drill pocket holes in each end. Apply glue to the ends of two
and in ⅝”. Drill a countersink hole and attach using a 1-¼” 7-½” pieces, position on the 26-½” pieces and clamp. Attach
wood screw. Repeat for the remaining top supports. From using 1-¼” pocket screws. Repeat for the other frame.
the outside attach the support with a 1-¼” pocket screw.

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Step 6. Continued... Step 7. Paint (Optional)

Cut 4 pieces of 1x2 to 19-½”. Drill several countersink holes
I painted the base and wings of the miter saw station
on the edge of each piece. Also, drill three ½” holes in the
because I wanted it to look like a store-bought piece of
side of each piece.
workshop furniture. I lightly sanded all of the parts and
Apply glue to the edge, position on the inside of the wing sprayed a coat of primer. When the primer was dry I
frame and clamp. Attach using 2” wood screws. Repeat for sprayed the mobile miter saw station with two coats of
the other pieces. “Casual Gray” Behr High Gloss paint.

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Step 8. Make the Top Step 9. Make the Arm Anchors

Cut a ¾” piece of plywood to 21-¾” x 37-¾”. Position the top Cut 8 pieces of 1x4 to 5". Measure in 1" on each corner and
on the miter saw station and clamp. Attach the top use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to
supports using 1-¼” pocket screws. round off the corners.

Related: 4 Ways to Make Straight Cuts with a Circular Saw Measure in 2-½” and 1-¾”. I used a ⅞” Forstner bit to drill
down ⅜” at this mark. Then I used a ¼” Forstner bit to drill
Measure in ⅝” on the front and back and drill several all the way through the piece. Next, drill 2 pocket holes on
countersink holes. Attach using 1-¼” wood screws. one side. Repeat for the remaining anchors.

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Step 10. Make the Lower Arms Step 11. Make the Upper Arms
Cut 4 pieces of 1x3 to 24-¾”. Measure in ½” on each corner Cut 2 pieces of 1x3 to 20-¼”. Measure in 1-½” and 1-¼” on
and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to each end and make a mark. Cut 4 pieces of 1x3 to 3-½”.
round off the corners. Measure in 1-½” and 1-¼” on one end and make a mark. I
used a ¼” Forstner bit to drill all the way through the piece
Measure in 1-½” and 1-¼” on the opposite side of each arm. at each mark.
I used a ⅞” Forstner bit to drill down ⅜” at this mark. Then I
used a ¼” Forstner bit to drill all the way through the piece. Apply glue to 2 small pieces, position on the end of an arm
Repeat for the remaining arms. (I used a spare bolt to align the holes) and clamp. Repeat
for the other arm.

When the glue is dry measure in ½” on each corner and use

a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off
the corners.

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Step 11. Continued... Step 12. Make the Arm Locks

Next, I marked the location for the arm locks on the top Cut 4 pieces of 1x2 to 4". The locks will be held in place with
and bottom side of the arm. I measured in 1" from the end screws. First I drilled countersink holes in the center of each
and 1-1/8" from the side and made a mark. I'll use these piece. Then I drilled a 1/4" hole inside the countersink hole.
marks to attach the arm locks in Step 13. This will allow the lock to spin freely on the screw.

Measure in ¼” on each corner and use a compass to draw

an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

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Step 13. Assemble the Arms Attach 2 anchors to the upper arm. Insert a 2” bolt with a
washer into the upper arm hole and attach using another
Layout 2 lower arms and 1 upper arm. Insert a 3-½” bolt washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose
with a washer into the middle hole in the arms. Then place enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the other
a washer on both sides of the upper arm. Attach using set of arms.
another washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it
Attach 1 anchor to each lower arm. Insert a 1-¼” bolt with a
loose enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the
washer (I needed to use three washers to prevent the nut
other set of arms.
from protruding beyond the back of the assembly) into the
lower arm hole and attach using another washer and a lock
nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose enough so the arms
can move freely. Repeat for the remaining anchors.

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Step 13. Continued... Step 14. Attach the Lower Anchors

Attach the arm locks using 1-½” wood screws. Position an arm assembly on the base and flip the upper
arms in between the lower arms. I inserted a few playing
cards in between the upper arms and lower arms to act as
spacers. This will ensure the arms will move freely later on.

Center the assembly on the base and clamp in position.

Attach the anchors using 1-¼” pocket screws.

Next, I temporarily removed the arms. I need to flip the

base in the next step and this will prevent the arms from
flopping around.

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Step 15. Attach the Casters Step 16. Attach the Wings
Flip the base and attach one caster to each corner. Center a wing on each side of the top. Attach the wing to
the top with a 12” piano hinge.

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Step 17. Attach the Upper Anchors I attached 1 piece of 1x2 to the back of the upper anchor
with a 1-¼” wood screw. This will help push the arm in the
Reattach the arms to the lower anchors. Center the upper upright position when the wing is closed.
anchors on the wing and clamp in position. Attach using
1-1/4" pocket screws.

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Step 18. Attach the Miter Saw Step 19. Make the Wing Tables
Center the miter saw from side to side and front to back. The dimension of each miter saw is a little different. The
Drill holes in the top to match the mounting holes in the length of the wing tables is based on the distance from the
miter saw. Attach using bolts, washers, and nuts. end of the wing table to the side of the miter saw base. This
means the length of the wing tables will be different for
each saw.

To determine the length of your wing table raise the wings

and measure from the end of the wing to the side of the
miter saw. Then, subtract 1" from this measurement. Mine
measured 37-½” minus 1” equals 36-½”.

Use a circular saw or table saw to rip two pieces of ¾”

plywood to 8” and cut to your dimension. I cut mine to
36-½”.

Related: 4 Ways to Make Straight Cuts with a Circular Saw

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Step 19. Continued... The wing table supports are based on the length of the
wing table. Measure from the side of the wing table that will
Cut 4 pieces of 1x6 to 19-½”. These pieces need to fit inside extend over the base of the miter saw station to the
the wing frames. They should be snug, but not too tight. outside edge of the 1x6. Then, subtract a ¼” from this
Otherwise, it will be difficult to install the wing tables in the measurement. Mine measured 33” minus ¼” equals 32-¾”.
wing frames. Adjust to fit if necessary.
Cut 4 pieces of 1x2 to your dimension. I cut mine to 32-¾”. I
Position 2 pieces 3-½” from the end of the wing tabletop placed the supports on the underside of the wing tables
and set in ¼” from each edge. Clamp in position, drill and set in ¼” from the edge. I used some scrap 1x material
several countersink holes and attach using 1-¼” wood as spacers between the 1x6s and the 1x2s. Drill several
screws. countersink holes in the supports and attach using 2” wood
screws.

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Step 20. Install the Wing Tables Step 21. Attach the T-Track
Insert a wing table into the wing. Place a straight edge (I Cut 2 pieces of t-track to match the length of the wing table.
used a 6' level) across the miter saw table and adjust the Position on the back of the wing table and clamp. Attach
wing until it's level with the miter saw table. Clamp the wing using ¾” wood screws.
table to the wing and drill pilot holes. Attach using a washer
and 1-½” lag screws. Repeat for the other wing table.

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Step 22. Make the Stop Coffee is Like a High Five in Your Mouth
Cut 1 piece of 1x3 to 2-¾” and drill a ¼” hole in the center. Did you find value in this free plan? If you
Insert a 1-¼” bolt, washer and wing nut. Slide the assembly answered yes, please consider treating me
onto the t-track. to a small cup of coffee. Thank you for
your support!
Cut 1 piece of 1x2 to 8” and drill two pocket holes on one
end. Place on the wing table and center on the back of the
stop. Clamp in position, flip over and attach using 1-¼”
pocket screws.

I sanded a bevel on the bottom edge of the stop. This will

prevent sawdust from building up in front of the stop.

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