1 s2.0 S0040162522005315 Main
1 s2.0 S0040162522005315 Main
1 s2.0 S0040162522005315 Main
A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T
Keywords: The heavy environmental effect of the fashion industry, along with the growing interest of consumers in sus
Green consumer behavior tainability issues, is driving this industry towards greater ecological integrity through the development of sus
Green product tainable clothing. This study investigates which factors influence green consumer behavioral intention in the
Eco-materials
clothing industry, through a survey of 2.694 Italian consumers. We study the influence of consumer’s envi
Theory of Planned Behavior
Sustainable clothing
ronmental concern, perceived value of the product, and consumer familiarity with the product (both direct and
Sustainable fashion indirect experiences) on purchase intention and willingness to pay a premium price for sustainable fashion
products. Our results show that environmental concern and perceived value positively affect purchase intention
and the willingness to pay a premium price regardless the type of eco-materials used for the products, whereas
direct and indirect experiences have different effects based on the specific eco-material used. Further, green
consumer behavior is strongly dependent on consumers’ socio-demographic characteristics. Based on these re
sults, important implications for scholars, managers, and policymakers are provided that can foster consumers’
adoption of sustainable clothing and a transition towards a more sustainable society. For instance, specific di
rections for marketing strategy and public communication campaigns are provided.
* Corresponding author.
** Correspondence to: L. Fraccascia, Department of Computer, Control, and Management Engineering "Antonio Ruberti", Sapienza University of Rome, via Ariosto
25, 00185 Rome, Italy.
E-mail addresses: [email protected] (R.M. Dangelico), [email protected] (L. Alvino), [email protected] (L. Fraccascia).
1
https://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/en/headlines/society/20201208STO93327/the-impact-of-textile-production-and-waste-on-the-environment-infographi
c.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techfore.2022.122010
Received 7 October 2021; Received in revised form 15 July 2022; Accepted 29 August 2022
Available online 27 September 2022
0040-1625/© 2022 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Inc. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-
nc-nd/4.0/).
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
impact of production processes and additional amounts of textile wastes cotton, linen, bamboo, wool) and, as a robustness check, for products
to be disposed of (Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2012; Dahlbo et al., 2017). In made of recycled fibers/fabrics (e.g., PET from recycled plastic bottles or
this regard, <15 % of textile waste is recycled at the global level; the fabrics from recycled clothing) and alternative vegetable matter (e.g.,
remaining part ends up in mixed household waste (Shirvanimoghaddam peel of oranges or apples). The last two types of products (i.e., clothes
et al., 2020). made with recycled fibers/fabrics and alternative vegetable matter) can
The growing interest of consumers in sustainability issues (Asche be considered as circular products, i.e., products that are consistent with
mann-Witzel and Stangherlin, 2021; Chen and Hung, 2016; Dangelico the circular economy paradigm (Dissanayake and Weerasinghe, 2021;
et al., 2022; Featherman et al., 2021; D. Huang et al., 2021; Y. Huang Pretner et al., 2021; Majumdar et al., 2020; Pal and Gander, 2018).
et al., 2021; Yan et al., 2019) is driving fashion houses and retailers to Italy was chosen as a setting for understanding consumer behavioral
take action and has been providing ground for the emergence of a new intention for sustainable fashion, given the relevance of the Italian
consumer market for the so-called “sustainable fashion”. Sustainable fashion industry at both the country and international level. Indeed, the
fashion, which is mainly associated with the environmental pillar of fashion industry represents 10 % of the Italian manufacturing, gener
sustainability, is a term used to describe clothing produced with eco- ating an added value of 24.2 billion euros yearly; furthermore, Italy
friendly raw materials and less pollutant production processes (Can holds a 6.8 % market share of the global fashion market, being the
iato et al., 2012; Shen et al., 2014).2 second country according to this ranking, and 33.9 % of the total added
Studies conducted on sustainable fashion have investigated the po value generated by the fashion industry at the world level comes from
tential environmental benefits (Hildebrandt et al., 2021), the sustain Italy (Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, 2020).
able product development processes (Fung et al., 2021; Provin et al., Compared to existing studies, this paper proposes several elements of
2021), the consumers’ engagement with sustainable fashion brands on novelty. From the theoretical perspective, to the best of our knowledge,
social networks (Testa et al., 2021), and the consumer perceptions, at this is the first study that integrates the consumer behavior perspective
titudes, and willingness to pay for sustainable fashion products, as well with the perspective of green product design, by comparing green con
as the factors impacting such behaviors (e.g., Grazzini et al., 2021; Kim sumer behavioral intention for products belonging to the same product
et al., 2020; Eun Ju Lee et al., 2020; Lundblad and Davies, 2016; McNeill class (clothing) and made of different eco-materials. Furthermore, this is
and Moore, 2015; Vehmas et al., 2018). The literature suggests that the first study that considers environmental concern together with
consumers want to be more sustainable when buying clothes (Brandão consumer perceived value of the product and consumer familiarity with
and da Costa, 2021). However, the number of consumers who consider the product as antecedents of green consumer behavioral intention.
sustainability when shopping for clothes is still small (Diddi et al., Results of this paper provide implications for scholars, managers, and
2019). Nevertheless, the literature recognizes that this research is still at policymakers.
early stages and highlights the need to further investigate the motiva This article is structured as follows: Section 2 illustrates the literature
tions driving consumers towards sustainable fashion, for instance by and hypotheses development, Section 3 presents the employed meth
enlarging the spectrum of participants to sustainable fashion studies, as odology, Section 4 reports the results, while Section 5 the discussion. In
well as to investigate the importance of widening the scope of research the final section, we present the implications of our study, along with
to include different categories of sustainable clothing (Mukendi et al., limitations and future research directions.
2020). In fact, understanding and studying pro-environmental behavior
is essential to shift to a society characterized by more sustainable con 2. Theoretical background and hypotheses development
sumption patterns (Brandão and da Costa, 2021; Connell, 2010).
Designers have a key role in the development of sustainable products This section is divided into three subsections. Section 2.1 introduces
(Esslinger, 2011) and eco-design choices may affect consumer behavior the theoretical background of the study. Section 2.2 concerns the hy
(Zeng et al., 2021). With regard to product design, materials are a key potheses development. Finally, Section 2.3 presents the developed
component of product form (Bloch, 2018) and, as such, may affect theoretical model.
consumer’s perception of product function (Hoegg and Alba, 2011).
Thus, the use of different eco-materials in sustainable fashion (Nii 2.1. Theory background
nimäki, 2010; Shen et al., 2014) may result in different responses by the
consumers. However, this issue has received limited attention in the The TPB of Ajzen (1991) is identified as a relevant social-
literature so far. psychological model commonly used to study consumer buying
This paper aims at investigating which are the factors that influence behavior (Perri et al., 2020; Xu and Jackson, 2019; Yang et al., 2022).
the green consumer behavioral intention in the fashion industry. In The TPB suggests that attitude towards behavior, subjective norms, and
particular, the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) (Ajzen, 1991) has been perceived behavioral control are important predictors of an individual’s
successfully used to explain a wide range of pro-environmental behav behavioral intentions, and subsequently of his/her behavior (Ajzen,
iors and intention to purchase green and fashion products (e.g., Brandão 1991; Brandão and da Costa, 2021). The first factor, attitude towards
and da Costa, 2021; Onel, 2017; Perri et al., 2020; Rhodes et al., 2015; behavior, refers to “the degree to which a person has a favorable or unfa
Saricam and Okur, 2019; Xu and Jackson, 2019). In this study, we rely vorable evaluation or appraisal of the behavior” (Ajzen, 1991, p. 188;
on this theory, trying at the same time to explain the main variables also Zhang et al., 2020). Attitude can be defined as a person’s beliefs and
through the lens of other relevant theories for understanding consumer assessment of the results that can be derived by the behavior, also, the
behavior (e.g., theory of reasoned action and value-belief-norm). Spe level to which a person has favorable or unfavorable evaluation of a
cifically, this article investigates the influence of consumer’s environ given behavior (Ajzen, 1991; Brandão and da Costa, 2021; Fishbein and
mental concern, perceived value of the product, and consumer Ajzen, 1975). The second factor, subjective norms, refers to the
familiarity with the product (both direct and indirect experiences) on perception of an individual about social pressure (e.g., friends, family or
purchase intention and willingness to pay a premium price for sustain colleagues) to comply (or not) with a specific behavior (Ajzen, 1991;
able fashion products. We built a theoretical model and, via a survey Brandão and da Costa, 2021). Unlike attitude, subjective norms reflect
conducted on 2.694 Italian consumers between June and September the importance of others’ opinion on whether an individual should or
2020, we tested it for products made of organic fibers (e.g., organic should not perform a behavior (Venkatesh et al., 2003; Zhang et al.,
2020). Finally, perceived behavioral control (PBC) denotes a person’s
perception of how simple or difficult is to perform a specific behavior, or
2
The focus of this study is on the environmental dimension of sustainability. the degree of difficulty to carry out a behavior (Ajzen, 1991; Lam and
Thus, the terms “sustainable” and “green” are used as synonyms. Hsu, 2006). Overall, a person with a positive attitude, high subjective
2
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
norm, and behavior control tends to perform a specific behavior (Zhang g., threats to animals and nature) (Schultz, 2000; De Groot and Steg,
et al., 2014, 2020). 2007a; Leszczyńska, 2014). These forms of specific behavior attitudes
Ajzen (1991) anticipated that the TPB can be adjusted by adding new are relevant for understanding pro-environmental behaviors (De Groot
constructs. This can help study the variation in intention or behavior and Steg, 2007b; Schultz, 2000; Leszczyńska, 2014).
(Rise et al., 2010). A modified version of the TPB model can be used to Perceived value is a customers’ overall evaluation of the utility of
study a particular context, for instance sustainable clothing consump perceived benefits and perceived sacrifices (Zeithaml, 1988). Based on
tion, by incorporating variables that help researchers study what moti the quality perspective, value can be defined as the difference between
vates (or disincentives) sustainable behavior (Brandão and da Costa, the quality of a product and the money paid for it (Bishop, 1984). Thus,
2021; Stern, 2000). Existing literature suggests that several constructs if a consumer pays less money for a high quality product, he/she will
can be used for modifying the original model to study green purchasing perceive the value of the product as positive (Kuo et al., 2009). However,
behavior and sustainable consumption (Bigerna et al., 2021; Dangelico perceived value means more than the money paid for certain products. A
et al., 2021; Frommeyer et al., 2022; Onel, 2017; Si et al., 2022; Singh consumer’s perceived value of a product also relies on non-monetary
et al., 2021, Srivastava et al., 2022; Yadav and Pathak, 2017; Yew et al., costs, such as search cost, transaction cost, and time invested during
2022; Zhang et al., 2019). For instance, the study by Kang et al. (2013) the purchase, as well as social incentive, for instance socioeconomic
modified the TPB and found that customers’ perceived consumer status and social culture (Cronin et al., 2000; Kuo et al., 2009; Sheth
effectiveness, product knowledge, and perceived personal relevance et al., 1991; Zeithaml, 1988). That is why studies in the TPB context
greatly affected the dimensions of the TPB, thus influencing the pur often consider perceived value as an antecedent of attitude, subjective
chase intentions for environmentally sustainable clothing. Similarly, norms, and PBC (Mafé et al., 2010; Abbasi et al., 2021; Brandão and da
Bong Ko and Jin (2017) investigated the purchase intention of US and Costa, 2021; Fiandari et al., 2019; Kondo and Ishida, 2014; Wang et al.,
Chinese consumers for green apparel products by adding man-nature 2020). In fact, a positive perceived value can be linked to “a positive
orientation and environmental knowledge to the TPB. The results of attitude, a stronger social pressure, and a feeling of control over difficulties to
the study suggest that environmental knowledge is an antecedent of perform sustainable fashion consumption” (Brandão and da Costa, 2021).
attitude and PBC. In fact, environmental knowledge was found to Similarly, the TRA suggests that perceived quality is linked to attitude.
strengthen attitudes towards purchasing green products and PBC for People’s behaviors are impacted by the consequences of such behaviors
both US and Chinese consumers (Bong Ko and Jin, 2017). However, (Brandão and da Costa, 2021). In fact, people tend to perform those
man-nature orientation positively influenced attitude and internal PBC behaviors that are associated with desirable outcomes. De Canio and
only for US consumers. Martinelli (2021) found that perceived quality can lead to a more pos
In this study, we modify the TPB to model the consumer behavioral itive attitude towards green products (e.g., green food) in a TRA context.
intention for sustainable clothing, using environmental concern, In this study, perceived value was included as a form of functional,
perceived value, and consumer familiarity as determinants. In the economic, and social value of a product.
following, we explain how these well-established concepts are related to Finally, we consider consumer familiarity for a product (as prior
the three original constructs of the TPB (i.e., attitude, social norm, and knowledge about a product), as a form of indirect (e.g., knowing the
PBC). Moreover, we explore the relationship between these constructs product exists) or direct (e.g., prior purchase or use) experience that a
and two dimensions of consumer behavioral intention: purchase inten consumer has with a product (Moser, 2015). Existing literature suggests
tion and willingness to pay a premium price for sustainable fashion. that familiarity influences consumer attitude towards a product, service,
These two dimensions have been considered as representative of the or task (Li and Jaharuddin, 2020; Notani, 1998; Shahangian et al.,
behavioral intention towards sustainable products, consistently with 2021), as customers feel more secure and comfortable towards the
previous studies (e.g., Prakash and Pathak, 2017; Magnier et al., 2019; product (Biswas and Roy, 2015; Li and Jaharuddin, 2020; Notani, 1998).
Notaro and Paletto, 2021; Rausch and Kopplin, 2021; Xu et al., 2020). For instance, Mohd Suki (2016) found that consumers with a high level
Environmental concern is a dominant cognitive construct to investi of familiarity with green food products are more likely to hold a pro-
gate purchase intention for sustainable products (Zhang et al., 2019). environmental attitude and display a stronger intention to purchase
Several studies found that more positive environmental concern can lead such products. Similarly, familiarity might improve a consumer’s
to a more positive attitude, subjective norms, and PBC towards sus perceived control over his/her behaviors, (Aungatichart et al., 2020;
tainable products (Hartmann and Apaolaza-Ibáñez, 2012; Maichum Notani, 1998). In fact, consumers with prior knowledge about a product
et al., 2016; Santos et al., 2021; Si et al., 2022; Siraj et al., 2022; Zhang feel secure and comfortable and this could improve their PBC (Notani,
et al., 2019; Rausch and Kopplin, 2021). For instance, Rausch and 1998). Thus, consumer familiarity with product categories can be
Kopplin (2021) suggest that environmental concern is an essential considered a predictor of both attitude and PBC (Aungatichart et al.,
cognitive and affective component in forming and influencing con 2020; Shahangian et al., 2021).
sumers’ attitudes towards sustainable clothing. Similarly, Bang et al. Based on the above considerations, we use environmental concern,
(2000) suggest that environmental concern contributes to the belief perceived value, and consumer familiarity with the product as de
component of the Theory of Reasoned Action (TRA).3 This is also in line terminants of consumer behavioral intention. Additionally, we extend
with the Value-Belief-Norm Theory (VBN) for environmental attitudes. the TPB model on the outcome side, as we consider two dependent
Based on the VBN, a person’s concerns about specific environmental variables: the intention to purchase a product and the willingness to pay
issues (e.g., soil pollution, air pollution, waste disposal) may be rooted in a premium price for that product. In the following section, we consider
the individual’s awareness of harmful consequences of certain actions relevant literature related to the effect of each of the three above-
(Schultz, 2000, 2001; De Groot and Steg, 2007a; Rausch and Kopplin, mentioned determinants on purchase intention and willingness to pay
2021). The VBN theory can be considered as an extension of Schwartz’s a premium price for sustainable fashion, developing specific hypotheses.
(1977) norm-activation theory of altruistic behavior. Thus, we recognize
there are three different clusters of environmental concern that might 2.2. Hypotheses development
affect specific behavior attitudes, namely egoistic (e.g., threat to one’s
health), altruistic (e.g., threat to future generations), and biospheric (e. 2.2.1. Environmental concern
Consumers’ environmental concern can be explained as “the degree to
which consumers are concerned about environmental problems and support
3
The TRA postulated by Fishbein and Ajzen (1975) suggests behavioral efforts to solve them”, for instance by purchasing green or sustainable
intent results from two factors, such as attitude towards the behavior and products (Dunlap and Jones, 2002, p. 485). According to Yue et al.
subjective norms. (2020), environmental concern can be divided into two categories, such
3
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
as environmental concern for (1) specific environmental issues (e.g., soil contribute to define consumers’ multilayered value perceptions (Babin
pollution) and (2) comprehensive and universal (e.g., variety of different et al., 1994; Sheth et al., 1991; Zauner et al., 2015). Instead, the “theory
environmental issues). In this study, we adopted the latter definition, as of consumption values” takes five additional customer value dimensions
a full and universal perspective of environmental issues. into account, such as functional, epistemic, conditional, emotional, and
Existing literature suggests that environmental concern is a major social values (Sheth et al., 1991). The constitutive PERVAL model also
factor that affects consumers’ decision-making process towards sus suggests that functional, economic, and social values are three funda
tainable products (Diamantopoulos et al., 2003; Sharma and Foropon, mental constructs of perceived value (Sweeney and Soutar, 2001).
2019). In fact, environmental concern is often considered as an impor Functional value, also known as performance/quality, is explained as
tant predictor of consumers’ environmentally-friendly behavior and the perceived utility for “functional, utilitarian, or physical performance”;
directly impacts purchase intention (Bamberg, 2003; Hartmann and economic value, such as price/value for money, is the utility a product
Apaolaza-Ibáñez, 2012; Felix et al., 2018; Pagiaslis and Krontalis, 2014; provides compared to the overall costs (output/input ratio); social value
Santos et al., 2021; Siraj et al., 2022; White and Simpson, 2013; Yue is the utility a product provides by enhancing an individual’s social self-
et al., 2020; Rausch and Kopplin, 2021). Testa et al. (2020) indicated concept (Wei and Jung, 2017; Zauner et al., 2015; Chi et al., 2021).
that environmental concern might positively influence the purchase of Based on the aforementioned considerations, we used functional, eco
sustainable packaging as green consumers actively search for environ nomic, and social values as the three reflective dimensions of the total
mental information. Park and Lin (2020) found that environmental value of sustainable clothing.
concern has a positive impact on the intention to purchase recycled and Studies suggest that consumers’ intention to purchase garments
upcycled fashion products. Similarly, Rausch and Kopplin (2021) found might be positively related to their perceived value (Han et al., 2017;
that environmental concern can positively impact both attitude and Wei and Jung, 2017; Zhao et al., 2018; De Toni et al., 2018; Şener et al.,
purchase intention for sustainable clothes. According to the argument 2019; Chi et al., 2021). Thus, understanding consumer’s perceived value
above, we formulated the following hypothesis: for sustainable clothes is important to define the purchase intention of
such products. For instance, a qualitative study from Han et al. (2017)
Hypothesis 1. Consumers’ environmental concern is positively
found that a negative perception of clothing and the lack of justification
related to the intention to purchase sustainable clothing.
for paying a premium price might negatively affect the intention to buy
Marketing literature also suggests that consumer intention to pur sustainable clothing. On the contrary, Watanabe et al. (2020) argued
chase a product is affected by the product price. In this regard, con that perceived value, especially emotional value, can increase purchase
sumers who are concerned about the environment might not necessarily intention for organic food. Similarly, Zhang et al. (2020) found that
buy green or sustainable products (Yue et al., 2020). In fact, consumers consumer perceived quality, price, emotional, and environmental values
who claim to be concerned about the environment might still not adopt significantly and positively impact consumers’ purchasing attitude for
pro-environmental behavior during the purchase, due to the higher price energy-saving appliances. Further, investigating the role that perceived
of green products compared to traditional products (Malik et al., 2017; value plays on intention to purchase and WTP a premium price for slow
Yue et al., 2020). Thus, it is important to study whether a price incre fashion products of Turkish and Kazakh students, Şener et al. (2019)
ment can affect consumers’ purchase behavior for sustainable products found that perceived value has a positive influence on the intention to
(Lichtenstein et al., 1993; Stall-Meadows and Davey, 2013). As envi purchase. Thus, the more positive a product’s value is perceived, the
ronmental concern is an antecedent of attitude, people who value higher consumers’ willingness to purchase that specific product. Hence,
environment issues tend to evaluate environmental consequences we formulated the following hypothesis:
related to the purchase of a product (e.g., less harmful to the environ
Hypothesis 3. The perceived value of a sustainable clothing product
ment) (Leszczyńska, 2014; Santos et al., 2021; Siraj et al., 2022). If these
made with a given eco-friendly material positively impacts consumers’
consequences are significant enough for consumers, then they might be
intention to purchase that kind of product.
willing to pay a higher price for this product. For instance, Notaro and
Paletto (2021) investigated the WTP of Italian consumers for different In the sustainable fashion context, perceived value can also be a
bio-textile garments (shirt, socks and T-shirt) made from certified wood. predictor of consumers’ willingness to pay a premium price. The higher
Authors found that consumers with higher environmental concern were price for sustainable clothing can be justified by the environmentally-
willing to pay a premium price – between 64 % to 128 % of the initial friendly materials and production processes used (Moon et al., 2014).
price – for these products. Based on the aforementioned considerations, Despite this, consumers still look to get the most value for money;
we formulated the following hypothesis: finding the desired trade-off between money and quality (Brandão and
da Costa, 2021). Thus, perceived benefits that a consumer might derive
Hypothesis 2. Consumers’ environmental concern is positively asso
from the consumption of a product affect their WTP for it. Consumers
ciated with the willingness to pay a premium price for sustainable
who perceive that a product has high performance and quality are more
clothing.
inclined to pay a higher price for these expected benefits (Baker and
Crompton, 2000; Homburg et al., 2018; Jung and Jin, 2016; Sweeney
2.2.2. Perceived value
and Soutar, 2001; Yang and Peterson, 2004). D’Souza et al. (2007)
The perception that consumers have of a product can play an
found that consumers are willing to pay a premium for environmentally-
important role in their purchase decision process (Coupey and Naka
friendly products, provided their quality is higher than that of conven
moto, 1988; Watanabe et al., 2020; Wei and Jung, 2017). In this regard,
tional products. According to Zhang et al. (2020), consumer perceived
the value of a product is determined based on its (objective) attributes
quality, as well as emotional and environmental values, influence the
and the (subjective) outcomes of those attributes (Zeithaml, 1988).
willingness to pay a premium price for energy-saving appliances.
Thus, the perceived value of a product is a much more comprehensive
Moreover, Şener et al. (2019) highlighted that perceived value has a
concept than “value for price” (Wei and Jung, 2017). Perceived value is
positive influence on the willingness to pay a higher price for slow
defined as “the consumer’s overall assessment of the utility of a product
fashion products. Finally, according to Hasbullah et al. (2020), if cus
based on what is received and what is given” (Zeithaml, 1988, p. 14).
tomers perceive that sustainable fashion products have more value than
Stonewall (1992) argued that “value is a perception, a view, or under
non-sustainable products, they will think that their investment is more
standing made up of measurable components”, thus it is a function of de
valuable and they will not be reluctant to pay more. Hence, we formu
livery, product features, service, quality issues and price (Yee and San,
lated the following hypothesis:
2011). As a result, customer perceived value could be considered as a
multidimensional construct, thus several attributes or dimensions Hypothesis 4. The perceived value of a sustainable clothing product
4
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
made with a given eco-friendly material positively impacts consumers’ developed the following hypotheses:
willingness to pay a premium price for that kind of product.
Hypothesis 5a. Consumers’ indirect experience (knowledge of the
product’s existence) with a sustainable clothing product made with a
2.2.3. Consumer familiarity
given eco-friendly material positively impacts their intention to pur
The first step in purchasing a product is having knowledge that a
chase that kind of product.
product exists. While studying consumers’ decision-making process, it is
important to assess the impact of their prior knowledge of a product on Hypothesis 5b. Consumers’ direct experience (prior purchase) with a
their purchase behavior. Prior knowledge can be defined as consumers’ sustainable clothing product made with a given eco-friendly material
objective or self-reported amount of knowledge about a product positively impacts their intention to purchase that kind of product.
(Johnson and Russo, 1984; Rao and Monroe, 1988; Sujan, 1985; Torrico
Product familiarity can also impact the consumers’ willingness to
et al., 2019). In the past, researchers have used terms like familiarity,
pay more for that product. Several studies on green consumption high
expertise, and experience when referring to prior knowledge (Rao and
lighted that consumers who never bought a specific green product, but
Monroe, 1988). Alba and Hutchinson (1987) specified that consumer
have knowledge on the existence of the product, its characteristics, or
prior knowledge has two major traits: familiarity and expertise (Alba
the sustainable methods used for its production, are willing to pay a
and Hutchinson, 1987; Eung Jin Lee et al., 2020; Rao and Monroe,
higher price compared to consumers without such knowledge (D’Amico
1988). In this study, we focus only on consumer familiarity, explained as
et al., 2016; Lanfranchi et al., 2019; Vecchio, 2013). Rao and Sieben
the number of products-related experiences that the consumer has
(1992) showed that consumers with limited knowledge about the
accumulated (Pollard et al., 2002; Sabbe et al., 2008; van Kleef et al.,
product (clothes) offer lower overall product evaluations compared to
2005). Familiarity includes both indirect (e.g., knowing the product ex
consumers with higher product knowledge; therefore, they are not
ists) or direct (e.g., prior purchase or use) experiences that a consumer has
willing to pay a price higher than or equal to the price their more
with a product (Marks and Olson, 1981). Accordingly, as indirect
knowledgeable counterpart is available to pay.
experience with a sustainable clothing product, we consider a con
Similar outcomes have been found for consumers who had a direct
sumer’s general familiarity with a clothing product made with a specific
experience with the product. Studies conducted on electric vehicles
eco-friendly material (i.e., consumer knowledge that such a product
show that experienced users have a higher chance to recognize and
exists). As direct experience with a sustainable clothing product, we
appreciate the product characteristics and, therefore, are willing to pay a
consider the prior purchase of clothing products made with a specific
higher price compared to users without direct experience (Gyimesi and
eco-friendly material.
Viswanathan, 2011; Larson et al., 2014; Peters and Dütschke, 2014).
Product familiarity has been related to several marketing-related
More recently, Notaro and Paletto (2021) found that consumers who
issues, such as message acceptance, product preference, product satis
buy >5 % of eco-friendly clothing compared to traditional clothing have
faction, and product quality (Marks and Olson, 1981; Schnurr et al.,
a higher willingness to pay a premium price for bio-textile socks
2017; Sirgy, 1981; Torrico et al., 2019). Studies suggest that consumers
compared to regular consumers. According to Ayedun et al. (2017),
who are familiar with a product can process information about the
farmers who had direct experience with an organic product for reducing
product more efficiently than buyers with no prior knowledge of the
infestation of crops have a higher willingness to pay for this type of
product (Loureiro et al., 2020; Shehryar and Hunt, 2005; Zhang et al.,
product compared to inexperienced farmers. Therefore, we expect that
2017). In fact, strong familiarity with a product can undercut a con
consumers who have a priori indirect and direct experiences with a
sumer’s sense of risk associated with the product (Kim and Kwon, 2018);
product make more accurate judgments about it, resulting in increased
thus, the consumer feels more certain in buying it (Herrera and Blanco,
willingness to pay. Based on these factors, we formulated the following
2011; Verbeke et al., 2009). Several TPB studies show that past behavior
hypotheses:
can help to explain future behaviors (Carfora et al., 2019; Conner and
Armitage, 1998; de Bruijn, 2010), suggesting that consumers’ familiar Hypothesis 6a. Consumers’ indirect experience (knowledge of the
ity with a product has an impact on their purchase intention (Chéron and product’s existence) with a sustainable clothing product made with a
Hayashi, 2001; Loureiro et al., 2020; Marks and Olson, 1981; Sabbe given eco-friendly material positively impacts consumers’ willingness to
et al., 2008). For instance, Marks and Olson (1981) investigated the pay a premium price for that kind of product.
influence of product familiarity on purchase intention. The authors
Hypothesis 6b. Consumers’ direct experience (prior purchase) with a
argued that consumers who are familiar with a product are more likely
sustainable clothing product made with a given eco-friendly material
to recommend its purchase than those who are less familiar with the
positively impacts their willingness to pay a premium price for that kind
product. Similarly, Sandes and Leandro (2016) found that inexperienced
of product.
consumers (who had never bought second-hand products) have a higher
negative perception of purchasing second-hand products, including
2.3. The theoretical model
clothing, compared to consumers who are familiar with the product
category - who had already bought second-hand products (Sandes and
Fig. 1 shows the theoretical model of this study, with the developed
Leandro, 2016). Wang and Hazen (2016) found that product knowledge
hypotheses. On the left, there are the factors determining the consumer
can influence the perceived value of remanufactured products, which in
behavioral intention for sustainable clothing (environmental concern,
turn drives the purchase intention. Wang et al. (2020) highlighted that
perceived value of the product, and consumer familiarity with the
product knowledge and past experience with the product are positive
product - distinguished into indirect and direct experiences), while, on
determinants of consumers’ purchase intentions towards remanufac
the right, there is the behavioral intention as represented by two di
tured products. According to Zhang and Dong (2020), consumers usually
mensions: purchase intention and willingness to pay a premium price.
choose green products due to their previous purchase experience.
Further, consumers’ socio-demographic characteristics and relevance
Therefore, we expect that consumers who have a priori indirect and
given to several aspects when purchasing clothing are included in the
direct experiences with a product make more accurate judgments about
model as control variables.
it, resulting in increased purchase intention. Based on these factors, we
5
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
Fig. 1. Theoretical model of consumer behavioral intention for sustainable fashion products.
3. Methodology clients, and e-mails.4 Hence, the snowball sampling method was used to
collect data.5 The final sample included 2.694 consumers.6 Since all
This section is divided into three subsections. Section 3.1 presents questions were mandatory, there are no missing values in the dataset.
the procedure used to collect data and the sample. Section 3.2 presents
the questionnaire. Section 3.3 describes the analytic technique used for 3.2. Structure of the questionnaire
data analysis.
At the beginning of the questionnaire, it was specified that questions
refer to garments such as shirts, T-shirts, pants, skirts, sweaters, and
3.1. Procedure and sample
jackets (underwear was excluded). We divided the questionnaire into
different sections. In the first section, respondents were asked about the
Data were collected by means of a questionnaire distributed across a
importance of several aspects when purchasing garments: brand, store,
sample of consumers living in Italy. A pre-test of the questionnaire was
price, sturdiness, type of fabric, quality, comfort, long-lasting fashion
conducted on a sample of 20 consumers to (1) assess whether the
style, trendy style, country of origin (manufacturing location), and
questions were clear to respondents, (2) assess whether the questions
effectively measured what they were intended to, and (3) test the time
required to complete the questionnaire. On average, respondents took 4
The participation in the survey by students was on a voluntary basis and all
15 min to complete the questionnaire.
answers were anonymous.
A convenience sampling was used as common in consumer behavior 5
Despite this method might not guarantee representation and be affected by
studies (e.g., Butt et al., 2017; Jaiswal et al., 2021; Mohd Suki and Mohd sampling biases, a high number of responses mitigate these risks (Atkinson and
Suki, 2019). The final questionnaire was distributed online, between Flint, 2001).
June 2020 and September 2020, to 47 management engineering stu 6
On average, each student shared the questionnaire with 57(=2.694/47)
dents of Sapienza University of Rome, who were invited to fill it and other respondents. Hence, respondents to the survey are not limited to man
spread it to their contacts, using social networks, instant messaging agement engineering students of Sapienza University of Rome.
6
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
environmental impact, on a five-point scale, from 1 = “not at all respectively. Section 4.3 describes the measurement model. Section 4.4
important” to 5 = “extremely important” (adapted from Chan and concerns the structural model. Finally, Section 4.5 addresses the
Wong, 2012). robustness check.
Then, there were three different sections, one for each eco-material
option for sustainable clothing: garments made from recycled fibers/ 4.1. Respondents’ profile
fabrics, organic fibers/fabrics, and alternative vegetable matter. For
each of them, to measure consumer familiarity with the product in terms Table 1 illustrates the socio-demographic characteristics of our
of indirect experience, we first asked the respondent whether he/she had sample, such as age, gender, education level, and monthly net income.
ever heard about such a type of product (0 = “no”, 1 = “yes”). If the
answer was “no”, we associated a value 0 also to consumer familiarity 4.2. Descriptive analysis
with the product in terms of direct experience assuming that, if a con
sumer had not even ever heard about a product, he/she could not have Table 2 reports the level of importance given to several aspects when
bought it, at least purposefully. If the answer was “yes”, in order to shopping for clothes in general. Results show that the most important is
measure direct experience, we asked whether he/she had ever purchased comfort, followed by quality, price, type of fabric, and resistance. The
such a type of product (0 = “no”, 1 = “yes”). Then, we measured re least important seems to be the brand, whereas long-lasting style, trendy
spondent’s perceived value of such a kind of products, in terms of quality, style, country of origin, store, and environmental impact are charac
resistance, expensiveness, and trendiness, through a four-item five-point terized by a medium level of importance.
Likert scale, from 1 = “strongly disagree” to 5 = “strongly agree”, which Table 3 reports consumer familiarity as indirect and direct experi
takes into account functional, economic, and social values as reflective ences, as well as willingness to pay a premium price for each of the three
dimensions of the general value of the product (new scale inspired by eco-design options. Results show that >70 % of consumers are knowl
Dangelico et al., 2021; Magnier et al., 2019). Further, purchase intention edgeable about garments made of recycled fibers/fabrics, with about 36
for products made with that eco-friendly material was measured % of them having bought these garments at least once. Almost 70 % of
through a three-item five-point Likert scale, from 1 = “strongly respondents declared to be willing to pay a premium for these products -
disagree” to 5 = “strongly agree” (adapted from Sweeney et al., 1999). for the greatest part of them the premium price is between 1 % and 20 %
We measured the willingness to pay more for such a kind of product more. Almost 70 % of consumers are knowledgeable about garments
compared to traditional garments on a five-point scale, from 1 = made of organic fibers/fabrics, with about 53 % of them having bought
“nothing” to 5 = “more than 30% more” (adapted from Niinimäki, these garments at least once. The 80 % of respondents declared to be
2010). willing to pay a premium for these products - for the greatest part of
After that, a three-item five-point Likert scale, from 1 = “strongly them the premium price is between 1 % and 20 % more. Only about 18
disagree” to 5 = “strongly agree”, was used to measure respondent’s % of respondents stated to be knowledgeable about garments made of
environmental concern (D’Souza et al., 2015). Finally, we included alternative vegetable matter, and, among them, only 16 % have ever
several questions about socio-demographic characteristics of re bought such a type of product. About 55 % of respondents declared to be
spondents: gender (a dummy variable codified as 0 for male and 1 for willing to pay a premium for these products - for the greatest part of
female), age (from 1 = “under 25” to 6 = “over 65”), education level them the premium price is between 1 % and 20 % more.
(from 1 = “primary education” to 6 = “PhD”), and monthly net income
(from 1 = “less than 1.000 €” to 6 = “over 3.000 €”) (Barbarossa and 4.3. Measurement model
Pelsmacker, 2014; Dangelico et al., 2021; Magnier et al., 2019; Pagiaslis
and Krontalis, 2014).7 CFA was employed to assess convergent and discriminant validity of
the multi-item scales of our study: environmental concern, perceived
3.3. Analytic technique value, and purchase intention.
The initial measurement model that included all 10 items of
To test our hypotheses, we employed structural equation modeling
(SEM) with maximum likelihood estimation using AMOS 25.0. First the Table 1
measurement model was assessed through confirmatory factor analysis Socio-demographic characteristics of respondents (N = 2694).
(CFA), then the structural model was tested. The analyses were first
Frequency Percentage
conducted using scales referred to organic products. After that, as a
Gender
robustness check for the obtained results, the same analysis was con
Male 1002 37.19
ducted using scales referring to products made with recycled fibers/ Female 1692 62.81
fabrics and for products made with alternative vegetable matter. Age
Being the Chi-square statistic (χ2) highly sensitive to sample size, it is 18–24 1078 40.01
not an optimal indicator of fit for large samples (Bagozzi, 2010; Iaco 25–34 779 28.92
35–44 183 6.79
bucci, 2010). Since our sample is very large (N = 2694), model fit will be
45–54 264 9.80
primarily assessed through other model fit indexes (Bagozzi, 2010; 55–65 319 11.84
Byrne, 2001; Kline, 2015): the comparative fit index (CFI), the global fit Over 65 71 2.64
index (GFI), the Tucker–Lewis index (TLI), the root-mean-square error of Education
Primary education 5 0.19
approximation (RMSEA), and the standardized root-mean-square re
Lower secondary education 68 2.52
sidual (SMRS). Upper secondary education 949 35.23
Bachelor degree 814 30.22
4. Results Master degree 809 30.03
PhD 49 1.82
Monthly net income
This section is divided into five subsections. Sections 4.1 and 4.2
Less than 1.000 € 1034 38.38
present the respondent profile and the descriptive analysis of replies, 1.000–1.500 € 614 22.79
1.500–2.000 € 474 17.59
2.000–2.500 € 204 7.57
7 2.500–3.000 € 150 5.57
Several other questions were included in the questionnaire, but they are out
Over 3.000 € 218 8.09
of the scope of this article.
7
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
Table 2 Table 3
Importance of several aspects when shopping for clothes (N = 2694). Consumer familiarity (indirect and direct experiences) and willingness to pay a
Mean Standard
premium price for sustainable clothing made from different types of materials.
Deviation Sustainable clothing made Frequency Percentage
from
Please rate the importance of the following aspects when
you purchase garments: Recycled fibers/fabrics Consumer familiarity
[1 = not important at all; 5 = extremely important] E.g. PET from recycled (Indirect experience)
Brand 2.47 1.109 plastic bottles or fabrics Have you ever heard of
Store 2.64 1.105 from recycled clothing garments made from
Price 3.97 0.932 recycled fibers/fabrics?
Resistance 3.74 0.932 Yes 1982 73.57
Type of fabric 3.83 0.985 No 712 26.43
Quality 3.99 0.895 Total (N) 2694 100
Comfort 4.16 0.888 Consumer familiarity
Long-lasting fashion style 2.91 1.224 (Direct experience)
Trendy style 2.68 1.137 Have you ever purchased
Country of origin (production place) 2.65 1.241 garments made from
Environmental impact 2.87 1.237 recycled fibers/fabrics?
Yes 718 36.23
No 1264 63.77
environmental concern, perceived value for sustainable clothing made Total (N) 1982 100
of organic materials, and purchase intention for sustainable clothing Willingness to pay more
How much more are you
made of organic materials, as reported in Table A.1, showed a good
willing to pay for
model fit (χ 2 = 329.450 [df = 32] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0.982, GFI = 0.977, garments made from
TLI = 0.975, RMSEA = 0.059, SRMR = 0.034) (Hair et al., 2006; recycled fibers/fabrics
Schumacker and Lomax, 2016). However, the third and the fourth items compared to traditional
of the perceived value scale displayed factor loadings lower than 0.50 garments?
Nothing 822 30.51
(0.45 and 0.48, respectively), which is the threshold value needed for Between 1 % and 10 % 1221 45.32
guaranteeing the practical significance of the measures (Hair et al., more
2006). Thus, these items were deleted. After having eliminated these Between 11 % and 20 % 527 19.56
two items, the model fit increased (χ 2 = 152.918 [df = 17] (p = 0.000), more
Between 21 % and 30 % 101 3.75
CFI = 0.991, GFI = 0.986, TLI = 0.985, RMSEA = 0.054, SRMR =
more
0.024), showing a good fit (Hair et al., 2006; Schumacker and Lomax, More than 30 % 23 0.85
2016). Total (N) 2694 100
After that, convergent and discriminant validity of constructs were Organic fibers/fabrics Consumer familiarity
assessed. All standardized factor loadings were higher than 0.50 and the E.g., organic cotton, (Indirect experience)
linen or bamboo derived Have you ever heard of
average variance extracted (AVE) was >0.50 for each construct, from organic agriculture garments made from
providing evidence of good convergent validity (Hair et al., 2006). The (no pesticides, organic fibers/fabrics?
composite reliability for each measure was >0.80, while Cronbach’s fertilizers, herbicides Yes 1857 68.93
alpha and Spearman-Brown’s coefficient (used for the two-item scale and other toxic No 837 31.07
substances are used) and Total (N) 2694 100
perceived value, according to Eisinga et al., 2013) were above 0.80 for
wool derived from Consumer familiarity
all scales, indicating high reliability of our measures (Nunnally, 1978; organic breeding (Direct experience)
Nunnally and Bernstein, 1994) (Tables 4 and A.1). Discriminant validity (animals live freely and Have you ever purchased
was assessed according to Fornell and Larcker (1981). In particular, they feed on organic garments made from
since the AVE of each construct exceeds the squared correlation between food) organic fibers/fabrics?
Yes 976 52.56
that construct and other constructs, there is evidence of discriminant No 881 47.44
validity between constructs. Table 4 reports the summary of the mea Total (N) 1857 100
surement model. Willingness to pay a
premium price
How much more are you
4.4. Structural model willing to pay for
garments made from
organic fibers/fabrics
In order to test the research hypotheses, indirect experience, direct compared to traditional
experience, and willingness to pay a premium price (referred to sus garments?
tainable clothing made of organic materials), as well as control variables Nothing 540 20.04
(socio-demographic variables – gender, age, education, income – and Between 1 % and 10 % 1238 45.95
more
importance given to different aspects when purchasing clothing – brand,
Between 11 % and 20 % 673 24.98
store, price, resistance, type of fabric, quality, comfort, long-lasting more
style, trendy style, country of origin, environmental impact), were Between 21 % and 30 % 199 7.39
added to the measurement model and the hypothesized paths were more
included. The obtained structural model displayed a good fit (χ2 = More than 30 % 44 1.63
Total (N) 2694 100
520.453 [df = 108] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0. 986, GFI = 0. 986, TLI = 0.957, Alternative vegetable Consumer familiarity
RMSEA = 0.038, SRMR = 0.019). Structural model results are reported matter (Indirect experience)
in Table 5. E.g., peel of oranges, Have you ever heard of
Results show that environmental concern, perceived value, direct apples, etc. garments made from
alternative vegetable
experience, and indirect experience have a positive and significant effect
matter?
on purchase intention, providing support to hypotheses H1, H3, H5a, Yes 478 17.74
and H5b. Further, environmental concern, perceived value, and direct (continued on next page)
experience with the product positively and significantly affect
8
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
Table 3 (continued ) store, and the country of origin as important factors in the purchase
Sustainable clothing made Frequency Percentage decision negatively and significantly influences purchase intention. The
from level of importance given to the price significantly affects the purchase
No 2216 82.26
intention positively and the willingness to pay a premium price nega
Total (N) 2694 100 tively. Finally, the level of importance given to the environmental
Consumer familiarity impact of products positively and significantly affects the willingness to
(Direct experience) pay a premium price.
Have you ever purchased
garments made from
alternative vegetable
4.5. Robustness check
matter?
Yes 76 15.90
No 402 84.10 To check for the robustness of the obtained results, the same mea
Total (N) 478 100 surement and structural models tested for organic clothing were also
Willingness to pay a tested for sustainable clothing made of recycled materials and for sus
premium price
How much more are you
tainable clothing made of alternative vegetable matter. Results of the
willing to pay for assessment of the measurement models are reported in Tables 6 and 7,
garments made from while structural model results are reported in Tables 8 and 9.
alternative vegetable For both types of eco-materials, the measurement model showed
matter compared to
adequate model fit and there was evidence of convergent and discrim
traditional garments?
Nothing 1204 44.69 inant validity of constructs; all the scales were reliable (Tables 6, 7, and
Between 1 % and 10 % 1003 37.23 A.1). Further, the structural model displayed good model fit for both
more types of eco-materials (Tables 8 and 9).
Between 11 % and 20 % 374 13.88 In Table 10, results of hypothesis testing are reported in correspon
more
Between 21 % and 30 % 88 3.27
dence of each of the three types of eco-materials used in sustainable
more clothing analyzed in this study. Results referred to the effects of envi
More than 30 % 25 0.93 ronmental concern, perceived value, and indirect experience on pur
Total (N) 2694 100 chase intention are robust across all types of eco-materials. Thus, H1,
H3, and H5a are fully supported. Similarly, results related to the influ
ence of environmental concern and perceived value on the willingness to
willingness to pay a premium price, thus supporting H2, H4, and H6b.
pay a premium price are robust across all types of eco-materials.
Alternatively, indirect experience does not influence willingness to pay a
Therefore, H2 and H4 are fully supported. Alternatively, results refer
premium price; thus, H6a does not receive support. The strongest pre
ring to the effects of direct experience on purchase intention and will
dictor of both purchase intention and willingness to pay a premium price
ingness to pay a premium price, as well as results on the effect of indirect
is perceived value.
experience on the willingness to pay a premium price, are not robust, as
Referring to socio-demographic variables, results show that gender
differences do emerge when considering different types of eco-materials.
has positive and significant impacts on purchase intention and willing
Thus, H5b, H6a, and H6b only receive partial support.
ness to pay a premium price. These results show that, compared to men,
Comparing the results of the structural models (Tables 5, 8, and 9)
women have a higher level of preference for garments made of organic
referring to control variables, some results reveal to be robust, despite
materials and are more willing to pay a premium price for them. Age
some differences appearing across the different types of eco-materials.
negatively affects willingness to pay a premium price, showing that
In particular, with regard to the socio-demographic variables, the
older consumers have a lower willingness to pay a premium price for
positive effect of education on purchase intention and the negative effect
sustainable clothing made of organic materials than younger ones. The
of age on the willingness to pay a premium price are robust across the
level of education positively affects the purchase intention, but does not
three types of eco-materials. Alternatively, considering consumer
influence the willingness to pay a premium price; accordingly, more
gender, the positive effect on purchase intention that emerged for
educated consumers have a higher propensity towards the purchase of
organic clothing is not confirmed for the other two eco-materials and the
organic clothing, but they are not willing to spend more for these
positive effect on the willingness to pay a premium price is confirmed
products, compared to less educated consumers. Finally, the level of
only for clothing made of alternative vegetable matter. The positive
income displays a significant effect on the willingness to pay a premium
impact of income on the willingness to pay more is not confirmed for the
price, showing that higher-income consumers are more willing to pay
other two types of eco-materials.
extra money for organic clothing.
With regard to results on the influence of the aspects important for
With regard to the influence of the aspects important for consumers
consumers when purchasing clothing, the negative effect of brand and
when purchasing clothing, results show that considering the brand, the
the positive effect of price on purchase intention are robust across the
Table 4
Summary of the measurement model (clothing made from organic fibers/fabrics).
Construct Item # Stand. factor loading Composite reliability Discriminant validity
Note. N = 2694; Model fit (χ 2 = 152.918 [df = 17] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0.991, GFI = 0. 986, TLI = 0.985, RMSEA = 0.054, SRMR = 0.024).
Abbreviation: AVE: average variance extracted.
9
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
Table 5 5. Discussion
Structural equation model coefficients (clothing made from organic fibers/
fabrics). Nowadays, there is increased opportunity for consumers to adopt a
Standardized coefficients more sustainable lifestyle by buying sustainable products. Recent years
Paths
have seen an increase in the production of fashion clothing made of
EC → PI 0.324** recycled, organic, or other eco-friendly materials, also known as sus
PV → PI 0.438** tainable fashion.
IE → PI 0.037* In this study, we examined consumers’ behavioral intention for
DE → PI 0.059**
sustainable clothing made of different types of eco-materials, in a
EC → WTP 0.057*
PV → WTP 0.304** modified TPB context. Specifically, we studied the effect of environ
IE → WTP 0.018 mental concern, perceived value, and consumer familiarity on con
DE → WTP 0.051* sumers’ purchase intention and willingness to pay a premium price. In
Control variables addition, we investigated the effects of socio-demographic variables on
Gender → PI 0.032*
Age → PI − 0.031
consumer behavioral intention.
Education → PI 0.059**
Income → PI − 0.019
Brand → PI − 0.042* 5.1. The impact of environmental concern, perceived value, and consumer
Store → PI − 0.034* familiarity
Price → PI 0.070**
Resistance → PI − 0.010
The results of our study show that environmental concern, consumer
Type of fabric → PI 0.037
Quality → PI 0.010 perceived value of the product, and consumer familiarity with the
Comfort → PI 0.028 product have a positive and significant effect on consumer behavioral
Long-lasting style → PI 0.006 intention for sustainable fashion products. In particular, we find that
Trendy style → PI − 0.007 consumer perceived value is the strongest predictor of both purchase
Country of origin → PI − 0.043*
intention and willingness to pay a premium price for sustainable fashion,
Environmental impact → PI 0.004
Gender → WTP 0.044* regardless of the specific eco-material used. This suggests that, in a
Age → WTP − 0.180** sustainable fashion context, high levels of customer perceived value of a
Education → WTP 0.015 product made with a specific eco-friendly material increase consumers’
Income → WTP 0.042*
intention to buy that kind of product, but also to pay a premium price for
Brand → WTP − 0.016
Store → WTP − 0.003 it. These results are consistent with previous studies on sustainable
Price → WTP − 0.098** fashion products (Chi et al., 2021; Han et al., 2017; Şener et al., 2019;
Resistance → WTP − 0.034 Wei and Jung, 2017). Our results also indicate that environmental
Type of fabric → WTP − 0.001 concern positively influences purchase intention and willingness to pay
Quality → WTP − 0.004
a premium price for sustainable clothing, regardless of the specific eco-
Comfort → WTP − 0.024
Long-lasting style → WTP 0.020 material. Therefore, if a consumer is more concerned about environ
Trendy style → WTP − 0.028 mental issues, he/she will show stronger intention to purchase sustain
Country of origin → WTP 0.012 able clothing compared to consumers with lower environmental
Environmental impact → WTP 0.100**
concern. This result is coherent with previous studies (e.g., Alzubaidi
Note. N = 2694; Model fit (χ 2 = 520.453 [df = 108] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0. 986, et al., 2020), as this might suggest that the intention to purchase a
GFI = 0. 986, TLI = 0.957, RMSEA = 0.038, SRMR = 0.019). product is high as relates to the moral and personal satisfaction to
Abbreviations: EC: environmental concern; PV: Perceived value; IE: indirect safeguard the environment (Kahneman and Knetsch, 1992; Nunes and
experience; DE: direct experience; PI: purchase intention; WTP: willingness to Schokkaert, 2003; Ritov and Kanheman, 1997), in particular for sus
pay. tainable fashion (Park and Lin, 2020; Rausch and Kopplin, 2021).
*
p < 0.05.
** Similarly, our results show that consumers who are more concerned
p < 0.01.
about the environment are also willing to pay a premium price for
sustainable clothing. This is in line with other studies on green products
three types of materials, while the negative effect of store is confirmed (Cicia et al., 2002; Laroche et al., 2001) and sustainable fashion (Notaro
only for alternative materials and the negative effect of country of origin and Paletto, 2021). This might suggest that consumers with a high
is confirmed only for recycled materials. environmental concern favor paying more for sustainable clothing, as
The negative influence of price and the positive influence of envi this is an indication of the extra effort taken by the manufacturer to
ronmental impact on the willingness to pay are robust across the three produce sustainable clothing. Plus, consumers with higher environ
types of materials. mental concern might be more willing to take action to solve
Table 6
Summary of the measurement model (clothing made from recycled fibers/fabrics).
Construct Item # Stand. factor loading Composite reliability Discriminant validity
Note. N = 2694; Model fit (χ 2 = 151.121 [df = 17] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0.990, GFI = 0.987, TLI = 0.984, RMSEA = 0.054, SRMR = 0.027).
Abbreviation: AVE: average variance extracted.
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R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
Table 7
Summary of the measurement model (clothing made from alternative vegetable matter).
Construct Item # Stand. factor loading Composite reliability Discriminant validity
Note. N = 2694; Model fit (χ 2 = 241.135 [df = 17] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0.987, GFI = 0. 978; TLI = 0.978, RMSEA = 0.070, SRMR = 0.024).
Abbreviation: AVE: average variance extracted.
Table 8 Table 9
Structural equation model coefficients (clothing made from recycled fibers/ Structural equation model coefficients (clothing made of alternative vegetable
fabrics). matter).
Standardized coefficients Standardized coefficients
Paths Paths
EC → PI 0.309** EC → PI 0.191**
PV → PI 0.431** PV → PI 0.597**
IE → PI 0.052** IE → PI 0.081**
DE → PI 0.097** DE → PI − 0.008
EC → WTP 0.067** EC → WTP 0.059**
PV → WTP 0.256** PV → WTP 0.324**
IE → WTP 0.031 IE → WTP 0.120**
DE → WTP − 0.014 DE → WTP 0.019
Control variables Control variables
Gender → PI − 0.005 Gender → PI 0.014
Age → PI − 0.152** Age → PI − 0.033
Education → PI 0.061** Education → PI 0.040**
Income → PI 0.018 Income → PI 0.008
Brand → PI − 0.049** Brand → PI − 0.043*
Store → PI − 0.030 Store → PI − 0.046**
Price → PI 0.095** Price → PI 0.055**
Resistance → PI 0.011 Resistance → PI − 0.007
Type of fabric → PI 0.020 Type of fabric → PI 0.049*
Quality → PI 0.006 Quality → PI − 0.022
Comfort → PI 0.004 Comfort → PI 0.001
Long-lasting style → PI 0.005 Long-lasting style → PI − 0.008
Trendy style → PI − 0.018 Trendy style → PI − 0.038*
Country of origin → PI − 0.091** Country of origin → PI − 0.032
Environmental impact → PI 0.011 Environmental impact → PI 0.023
Gender → WTP 0.037 Gender → WTP 0.050**
Age → WTP − 0.248** Age → WTP − 0.145**
Education → WTP 0.003 Education → WTP − 0.006
Income → WTP 0.022 Income → WTP 0.009
Brand → WTP − 0.011 Brand → WTP − 0.015
Store → WTP 0.002 Store → WTP − 0.035
Price → WTP − 0.128** Price → WTP − 0.113**
Resistance → WTP 0.009 Resistance → WTP 0.003
Type of fabric → WTP − 0.079** Type of fabric → WTP − 0.039
Quality → WTP 0.020 Quality → WTP − 0.041
Comfort → WTP − 0.037 Comfort → WTP − 0.006
Long-lasting style → WTP 0.009 Long-lasting style → WTP 0.039
Trendy style → WTP − 0.018 Trendy style → WTP − 0.043*
Country of origin → WTP 0.004 Country of origin → WTP 0.044
Environmental impact → WTP 0.126** Environmental impact → WTP 0.065**
Note. N = 2694; Model fit (χ 2 = 600.482 [df = 108] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0.982, Note. N = 2694; Model fit (χ 2 = 549.111 [df = 108] (p = 0.000), CFI = 0.985,
GFI = 0.984, TLI = 0.945, RMSEA = 0.041, SRMR = 0.020). GFI = 0. 984, TLI = 0.956, RMSEA = 0.039, SRMR = 0.017).
Abbreviations: EC: environmental concern; PV: Perceived value; DE: direct Abbreviations: EC: environmental concern; PV: Perceived value; IE: indirect
experience; IE: indirect experience; PI: purchase intention; WTP: willingness to experience; DE: direct experience; PI: purchase intention; WTP: willingness to
pay. pay.
** *
p < 0.01. p < 0.05.
**
p < 0.01.
environmental issues, hence paying a higher price for sustainable
clothing. Consumers with high environmental concern might also be Finally, we investigated the effect of direct and indirect product fa
more aware of the extra risks and costs (e.g., managing the production, miliarity on purchase intention and willingness to pay a premium price
diversification, alternatives, sustainable agriculture) encountered by for sustainable clothing. We find that indirect familiarity with a product
companies to produce sustainable clothing, hence displaying a higher (e.g., knowing the product exists) has a positive effect on purchase
willingness to pay a premium price. intention, regardless of the specific eco-material used; however, it
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R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
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R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
Chryssohoidis, 2005; Liobikienė et al., 2017). For instance, Liobikienė socio-demographic characteristics of respondents and the relevance they
et al. (2017) found that women are more willing to buy green products, give to different aspects when purchasing clothes. Consumer perceived
compared with men, while Dangelico et al. (2021) highlighted that value of the product emerged to be the strongest predictor of both
women are more willing to pay a premium price for green products than purchase intention and willingness to pay a premium price. Finally, to
men. In this study, we also considered the level of education, the best of our knowledge, this is the first study that examines and
acknowledged as an important factor for social or environmental con compares consumer behavioral intentions for sustainable clothing
sumption (Park and Lin, 2020). Our results suggest that education characterized by different eco-materials. In so doing, this study in
positively affects the purchase intention for clothes made with all the tegrates the consumer behavior/marketing perspective with the design
three eco-materials. Consumers with higher education had more inten one for green products. The testing of the model with regard to organic
tion to purchase sustainable clothing than those with lower levels of clothing provided results that revealed to be mostly robust also with
education, as also reported by Dettmann and Dimitri (2007). However, regard to the other two types of eco-materials. However, mixed results
we find that education does not influence the willingness to pay more, on the effects of consumer experience, as well as of some control vari
showing that more educated consumers are not willing to spend more ables obtained for the different types of eco-materials, highlight that, to
for sustainable products, compared to less educated ones, as reported by fully understand green consumer behavior, it is important to be very
Malone (1990) and Misra et al. (1991). In fact, these studies reported specific on the green characteristics of the products, since they can in
that higher-educated consumers exhibit a lower willingness to pay for fluence consumer behavior.
sustainable products. Finally, our results suggest that the level of income From a managerial perspective, this study may suggest that com
does not affect the intention to purchase sustainable clothing, consis panies should: (1) carefully identify and evaluate all the different design
tently with what was found by Dangelico et al. (2021). Alternatively, options to green their product offerings and (2) clearly communicate to
income has a positive impact on the willingness to pay a premium price, consumers the green characteristics of their products, providing detailed
despite this result being limited to organic garments. This highlights that information on the labels or on the packaging or through advertising. A
consumers with a higher income might be more willing to pay an extra useful tool to these aims can be represented by the Green Option Matrix
amount of money to buy sustainable alternatives to traditional clothes, (Dangelico and Pontrandolfo, 2010). Moreover, before introducing the
despite only specific solutions. In Dangelico et al. (2021), the level of use of innovative eco-friendly materials in a given category of products,
income was not found to affect the willingness to pay a premium price companies should conduct in-depth marketing analysis in order to un
for green products in general. Jointly considering their results and our derstand consumers’ perceptions about that. Further, our findings show
study’s results suggests that the influence of income on the willingness that green consumer behavior is strongly dependent on consumers’
to pay a premium price may be dependent upon the specific type of socio-demographic characteristics. Thus, it is important that companies
product and the specific design option for a given product type. also take into account socio-demographic segmentation when designing
their marketing strategies and develop specific marketing mixes for each
6. Conclusions target segment. For instance, we find that gender may have an impact on
both intention to purchase and willingness to pay for sustainable fashion
This section concludes the paper with the implications provided by products. This might suggest that companies can opt for a gender seg
our work (Section 6.1), as well as acknowledging the limitations and mentation of the market, mainly targeting women or offering to women
suggesting future research directions (Section 6.2). a higher-priced line of sustainable products and to men a lower-priced
one; in the latter option, investments in specific advertisements should
6.1. Implications also be made to raise men awareness about the benefits of sustainable
fashion products, so to increase their purchase intention and their
The findings presented in this study have several implications for willingness to pay more. Finally, since this study highlights that con
scholars, managers, and policymakers. sumer familiarity (both indirect and direct experiences) may positively
In terms of theoretical implications, this research contributes to the affect green consumer behavior, companies should invest in increasing
literature on green consumption behavior in several ways. Firstly, by consumer familiarity with their green products, for instance through
employing the TPB, this study investigates the determinants of con investments in advertisement and promotion of sales.
sumers’ behavioral intentions for sustainable fashion products. Specif This study also provides implications for policymakers. Specifically,
ically, we consider environmental concern (as antecedent of attitude, results highlighted that older people are less likely to adopt a green
subjective norms, and PBC), consumer perceived value (as antecedent of consumption behavior than younger ones. Thus, communication cam
attitude, subjective norms, and PBC), and consumer familiarity (as paigns should be devoted to raising awareness of older citizens about the
antecedent of attitude and PBC) as determinants. We also rely on other relevance of green products to protect the natural environment as well
theories, such as TRA and VBN, to explain why environmental concern as to highlight that these products’ quality and performance are not
and consumer perceived value can be considered as determinants of pro- lower than those of conventional alternatives. Further, the positive in
environmental behaviors. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first fluence of the consumers’ education level on their purchase intention of
study that includes environmental concern together with consumer sustainable clothing suggests that investing in education allows gov
perceived value of the product and consumer familiarity with the ernments to move towards not only more educated but also more
product to explain behavioral intentions towards sustainable products. environmentally-friendly societies.
Further, two dimensions of consumer familiarity (indirect and direct
experiences) are included and this is among the few studies that have 6.2. Limitations and future research directions
analyzed the influence of consumer familiarity on the willingness to pay
a premium price for green products. On the outcomes’ side, both pur This study has some limitations. First, the survey focused on Italian
chase intention and willingness to pay a premium price are simulta consumers, so limiting the generalizability of the achieved results.
neously considered. Moreover, consumers’ socio-demographic Further, the analysis is based on a convenience sample, which is not
characteristics and general purchase behavior for the product class (in representative of the whole Italian population. However, the high
terms of relevance given to different aspects) are included in the model number of respondents allows us to overcome the potential risks of
as control variables. As a result, a multi-faceted and comprehensive view sampling biases (Atkinson and Flint, 2001). Second, this study refers to
of the phenomenon of green consumer behavior in the clothing industry garments (like shirts, T-shirts, pants, skirts, sweaters, and jackets) that
is provided and it is shown that the two outcomes have, indeed, different are highly visible to other people. It should be highlighted that different
antecedents, regarding the two dimensions of consumer familiarity, results could have been obtained referring to clothing, such as
13
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
undergarments and socks, that are both less apparent (and for which, eco-friendly (e.g., design for “slowing the loop”). Moreover, future
thus, social pressures may be less relevant) and in close contact with the technological developments may lead to other innovative eco-friendly
skin of users (so that the quality of the materials used can be perceived as materials that can be used for garments and whose influence on green
more important). Third, it should be acknowledged that, while our aim consumer behavior should be promptly analyzed.
was to measure the broad perceived value of products (including func Finally, future studies, by focusing on consumers with a direct
tionality as well as economic value and social value), the test of the experience with sustainable clothing, could investigate the role played
measurement model led us to retain in the scale only the items related to by consumer satisfaction in green consumption behavior.
functionality. Thus, the obtained results should be interpreted only as We hope that this study supports the achievement of the United
referring to this dimension of value. Nations Sustainable Development Goal n. 12 (sustainable production
Fourth, this study focuses on the materials of which garments are and consumption) in an industry, that of clothing, with a relevant
made, considering three types of eco-materials: recycled, organic, and environmental impact worldwide, and will stimulate further research on
made of alternative vegetable matter. We acknowledge that other spe the topic, contributing to the transition towards a more sustainable
cific materials, different from those considered in this paper, might exist. society.
In addition, other options do exist for making garments more
environmentally-friendly, such as making them resistant over time, Funding
designing them with a classic style (that does not quickly go out of
fashion), or, in the case of baby clothing, designing them with adjustable This work was supported by Sapienza University of Rome within the
size, to fit the baby growth. These options allow to “slow the loop” from project “Il comportamento dei consumatori nei confronti dell’abbiglia
a circular economy perspective (Geissdoerfer et al., 2017; Korhonen mento eco-sostenibile: uno studio su ampia scala relativo a preferenze,
et al., 2018). atteggiamenti, propensione all’acquisto e volontà di pagare un premium
Future studies could extend this research in several ways. For price”.
instance, future research could be aimed at testing the developed
theoretical model by surveying consumers living in other geographical CRediT authorship contribution statement
regions, so as to assess cultural influences on green consumer behavior,
as well as whether differences in consumer behavior emerge between Rosa Maria Dangelico: Conceptualization, Investigation, Method
developed and developing countries - in this regard, purchase intention ology, Formal analysis, Writing – original draft, Writing – review &
and willingness to pay a premium price for sustainable fashion products editing. Letizia Alvino: Conceptualization, Methodology, Writing -
could depend on the economic conditions of the country under inves original draft, Writing - review & editing. Luca Fraccascia: Conceptu
tigation. Another interesting research avenue would be enlarging and alization, Investigation, Methodology, Data curation, Writing – original
comparing the product categories under investigation (including, for draft, Writing – review & editing.
instance, fashion accessories - such as shoes and bags - or un
dergarments). This would be relevant, since consumer purchase Declaration of competing interest
behavior for clothing products made with eco-friendly materials is
dependent upon the perception of associated contamination risks, whose None.
impact is higher for products closer to the skin; this has been proven, for
instance, for textile products made of recycled plastic bottles (Meng and Data availability
Leary, 2021). Further, it would be interesting to investigate consumers’
attitudes and preferences about other options to make clothing more The data that has been used is confidential.
Appendix A
Table A.1
Scales.
Please indicate your level of agreement with the following statements (from 1 = “strongly disagree” to 5 = “strongly agree”):
Environmental concern 1. I am very concerned about the environment 4.34 0.764 Cronbach’s alpha =
(D’Souza et al., 2015) 2. I would be willing to reduce or change my consumption to help protect the 4.34 0.756 0.891
environment
3. Protecting the natural environment increases my quality of life 4.43 0.779
Please indicate your level of agreement with the following statements on garments made from organic fibers/fabrics (from 1 = “strongly disagree” to 5 = “strongly agree”):
Perceived value (organic) 1. I think that a garment made from organic fibers/fabrics has a good quality 3.60 0.865 Spearman-Brown =
(new scale inspired by Dangelico et al., 2021; 2. I think that a garment made from organic fibers/fabrics is resistant over time 3.43 0.814 0.853
Magnier et al., 2019) 3. I think that a garment made from organic fibers/fabrics should be more 3.16 1.024
expensive than traditional garments (D)
4. I think that wearing a garment made from organic fibers/fabrics is trendy (D) 3.10 0.956
Purchase intention (organic) 1. I would consider buying garments made from organic fibers/fabrics 4.14 0.805 Cronbach’s alpha =
(adapted from Sweeney et al., 1999) 2. I am willing to purchase garments made from organic fibers/fabrics 4.11 0.807 0.900
3. There is a strong likelihood that I will buy garments made from organic fibers/ 3.72 0.965
fabrics
Please indicate your level of agreement with the following statements on garments made from recycled fibers/fabrics (from 1 = “strongly disagree” to 5 = “strongly agree”):
Perceive value (recycled) 1. I think that a garment made from recycled fibers/fabrics has a good quality 3.13 0.763 Spearman-Brown =
(new scale inspired by Dangelico et al., 2021; 2. I think that a garment made from recycled fibers/fabrics is resistant over time 3.22 0.762 0.785
Magnier et al., 2019) 3. I think that a garment made from recycled fibers/fabrics should be more 2.50 0.946
expensive than traditional garments (D)
(continued on next page)
14
R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
4. I think that wearing a garment made from recycled fibers/fabrics is trendy (D) 3.02 0.937
Purchase intention (recycled) 1. I would consider buying garments made from recycled fibers/fabrics 4.11 0.863 Cronbach’s alpha =
(adapted from Sweeney et al., 1999) 2. I am willing to purchase garments made from recycled fibers/fabrics 4.05 0.891 0.894
3. There is a strong likelihood that I will buy garments made from recycled fibers/ 3.58 1.033
fabrics
Please indicate your level of agreement with the following statements on garments made from alternative vegetable matter (from 1 = “strongly disagree” to 5 = “strongly agree”):
Perceived value (alternative) 1. I think that a garment made from alternative vegetable matter has a good quality 2.88 0.808 Spearman-Brown =
(new scale inspired by Dangelico et al., 2021; 2. I think that a garment made from alternative vegetable matter is resistant over 2.81 0.831 0.880
Magnier et al., 2019) time
3. I think that a garment made from alternative vegetable matter should be more 2.64 0.964
expensive than traditional garments (D)
4. I think that wearing a garment made from alternative vegetable matter is trendy 2.79 0.959
(D)
Purchase intention (alternative) 1. I would consider buying garments made from alternative vegetable matter 3.48 1.048 Cronbach’s alpha =
(adapted from Sweeney et al., 1999) 2. I am willing to purchase garments made from alternative vegetable matter 3.44 1.034 0.930
3. There is a strong likelihood that I will buy garments made from alternative 3.03 1.071
vegetable matter
(D): Dropped item for reasons elaborated in text.
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Rosa Maria Dangelico is Associate Professor of Management Engineering at the
Vehmas, K., Raudaskoski, A., Heikkilä, P., Harlin, A., Mensonen, A., 2018. Consumer
Department of Mechanics, Mathematics, and Management of Politecnico di Bari (Italy).
attitudes and communication in circular fashion. J. Fash. Mark. Manag. 22, 286–300.
She was formerly Associate Professor at Sapienza University of Rome. She holds a laurea
https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-08-2017-0079.
degree with top graduation mark in Management Engineering from Politecnico di Bari and
a PhD in the Area Innovation Management and Product Development from Scuola
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R.M. Dangelico et al. Technological Forecasting & Social Change 185 (2022) 122010
Interpolitecnica di Dottorato (Italy). tools in marketing research. Letizia has been visiting scholar at various universities and
She teaches or has taught Marketing and Innovation Management, Business Man research institutes including University of Twente (The Netherlands), Chaudhary Charan
agement, and Economics and Business Organization. Singh University of Meerut (India), International Institute of Knowledge Management (Sri
She is author of several papers published in international journals, including Journal Lanka), and Global Alliance of Marketing & Management Association (Japan).
of Business Ethics, Business Strategy and the Environment, and Journal of Product Inno
vation Management.
Luca Fraccascia is Senior Assistant Professor of Management Engineering at the
Her research mainly relates to corporate sustainability, green innovation, and green
Department of Computer, Control, and Management Engineering “Antonio Ruberti” of
consumer behavior.
Sapienza University of Rome, where he teaches Environmental Economics and Management
and Marketing and Innovation Management, and Guest Researcher at the Department of
Letizia Alvino is Assistant Professor of Marketing at the Faculty of Behavioural, Man High-tech Business and Entrepreneurship of University of Twente. He got a laurea degree
agement and Social Sciences (BMS) at the University of Twente the Net. Her research with top graduation mark in Management Engineering from Politecnico di Bari and a PhD
interest focuses on neuromarketing, consumer buying behavior and marketing strategy. in Mechanical and Management Engineering from Politecnico di Bari.
She has developed and taught courses such as Marketing, Digital Marketing, Consumer Luca is author of several papers published by scientific international journals,
Behavior, Neuromarketing, Organizational Behavior and Research. She graduated cum including International Journal of Production Economics, Ecological Economics, and
laude in Management and Business Control at the Parthenope University of Naples. In Business Strategy and the Environment, and is Editor of Resources, Conservation and
2018, she received her Ph.D. from University of Molise in collaboration with the University Recycling Advances. His research focuses on circular economy, industrial symbiosis, sus
of Twente. She investigated the potential benefits of utilizing neuroimaging and biometric tainable business models, and green consumer behavior.
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