Mark-8 Cover

Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

Meaker VI’s Mark-8

A beginner’s guide to making a homemade NERF blaster
Contents:
Cover (This sheet)
Overview
Parts List
Shopping List
Cut list
Bushing
Plunger
Blaster (page 1)
Blaster (page 2)
Introduction Catch detail
This guide is intended to allow anyone completely new to the RSCB (Optional)
world of homemade-blaster building to succssfully build a Final Assembly
functioning blaster. In making it, I have attempted to keep Credits
costs and tooling requirements to a minimum - in building my
own prototype blaster I only used a hand drill, saw, pair of
scissors, and a screwdriver. I have also attempted to outline
clearly where the materials can be found and have provided
alternitive solutions to troublesome materials. Everything used
to build my blaster was purchased at Lowes, but could have
also been found at a Home Depot or any well-stocked hardware
store. I have included a complete purchasing list for your
reference later on - print it out and take it with you to get
everything you will need.

I reccommend reading through the entire guide and ensuring you have the tools and parts needed. Then clear a workspace - a
workbench, counter, card table, or desk will do; and then starting by cutting everything according to the provided cutlist. After
that, work through the steps for each sub-assembly, before putting the entire blaster together on the final assembly. Some
holes are shown on parts for reference in earlier steps, but all holes should be drilled after the parts are together. This
ensures you will have matching holes and won’t need to try to re-drill them later.

Building the prototype took me no more than 3 hours, and that was with designing and dinking around with other options lying
around in my shop. I would estimate a work time of 30 minutes to an hour for someone following this guide.
 Mark-8 Overview
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013
1/2” CPVC Tee
1/2” PVC Endcap
3” Long Slug Dart (Instructions available on Nerfhaven)
3/4” Long 1/2” PVC
1/2” CPVC Plunger Rod slides freely in 1/2” PVC & Coupler
1/2” PVC Coupler wrapped in E-tape
1” #8 (Wood) Screws hold handle in place
12” Long 1/2” PVC
12” Long 1/2” CPVC
1/2” #8 Screw (typical)
1/2” CPVC Endcap
1-1/4” Metal Fender Washer
1-1/2” Rubber Fender Washer
1-1/4” Rubber Fender Washer
#8 Washer
1” #8 (Wood) Screw (typical)

E-tape (not shown) holds

Clothespin in place
Cut-down Clothespin
1” Long Roofing Nail Trigger Pin
5/8” x 1-1/2” Angle Bracket Trigger
Shaped Wood Handle
14” Long 1-1/4" PVC Plunger Tube/Blaster Body
Electrical tape (E-tape) on 1” x 1/2” PVC Bushing
2” Long 1/2” PVC Blaster Barrel

CUT LIST
2” Long 1/2” PVC Part Length Quantity Notes
14” Long 1/2” CPVC Barrel 1/2" CPVC 14" 1 Barrel - cut down later to fit your darts
1/2” PVC Tee 1/2" CPVC 12" 1 Plunger Rod
3/4” Long 1/2” PVC 1/2" PVC 12" 1 RSCB Clip
1/2” PVC Elbow 1/2" PVC 3/4" 2 RSCB connection rings
1/2" PVC 2" 2 Barrel sheath & Blaster Barrel
Latex tubing (or Bungie) not shown for clarity
1 1/4" PVC 14" 1 Plunger Tube/Blaster Body - one end at an angle
1/2" PVC Coupler - - Cut in Half
Handle 5" 1 Shape and slant per your preferance
Clothespin - - Cut tails off
 Plunger Mark-8 Parts List
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013
12” long 1/2“ CPVC
#8 Washer
1-1/4” Rubber Washer
1-1/2” Rubber Washer
1-1/4” Fender Washer
1/2” CPVC Endcap
1 x 1/2” #8 Screw
1 x 1” #8 Screw
Not shown (used later)
1 x 1/2” CPVC ‘T’
1 x 1/2” #8 Screw

RSCB (clip + barrel)

14” long 1/2” CPVC
2” long 1/2” PVC
3/4” long 1/2” PVC
12” long 1/2” PVC
1/2” PVC ‘T’
1/2” PVC Elbow
Front Bushing 1/2” PVC Endcap
2” long 1/2” PVC 3 x 1/2” #8 Screw
1“ x 1/2” PVC Bushing
Tape (Electrical, duct, or packing)

Blaster Body
1 x 1/2” #8 Screw Not Shown (used later)
1/2 of 1/2” PVC Coupler
2 x 1” #8 Screw 2 x 1/2” #8 Screw
14” Long (sloped) 1-1/4” PVC
1 x 1-1/4” Nail 24-36” of Latex tubing or Bungie
Handle
Clothespin (cut tails off)
Tape (Electrical, duct, or packing)
1-1/2” x 1-1/2” Angle bracket
3/4” long 1/2” PVC
 Part Quantity Cost Notes Mark-8 Shopping List
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

1/2” CPVC Pipe 27” $5.00 Bring a dart to test fit - should slide in/out easily, but stay in place when releaseed
1/2” PVC Pipe 19” $2.00 Schedule 40 or 200 psi
1-1/4” PVC Pipe 14” $4.50 Schedule 40
1/2” PVC Endcap 1 $0.50 All 1/2” PVC fittings are for RSCB clip - omit if you don’t want/need to build one
1/2” PVC ‘T’ 1 $0.50
1/2” PVC Coupler 1 $0.50
1/2” PVC Elbow 1 $0.50
1” x 1/2” PVC Bushing 1 $0.50 If you cannot find this, grab a stick of Schedule 40 1” PVC pipe (est. $4)
1/2” CPVC Endcap 1 $0.50
1/2” CPVC ‘T’ 1 $0.50
1-1/4” Rubber Washer 1 $1.00 Neoprene is ok too, they usually come in the hardware bins in 2-packs
1-1/2” Rubber Washer 1 $1.00 Neoprene is ok too, they usually come in the hardware bins in 2-packs
1-1/4” Fender Washer 1 $1.25 Mine come in 4-packs in the same bins as the rubber washers
#8 Washers 1 $1.50 Usually come in multi-packs (100+).
#8 Screws - 1/2” Long 8 $6.00 Usually come in multi-packs (100+). Use whichever drive type you prefer
#8 Screws - 1-1/4” Long 3 $6.00 Usually come in multi-packs (100+). Can also be found in 1lb. boxes as “drywall” or “wood” screws
1-1/4” Roofing Nails 1 $4.00 Usually come in 1lb. boxes
1-1/2” Corner Bracket 1 $3.00 Not to be confused with the flat corner plate. Usually near the other hardware in a seperate area
Clothespin (cut tail off) 1 $2.50 May not be at your local hardware store, but definitely available through Walmart, Target, some Dollar stores, etc.
Latex Tubing 24-36” $6.00 Pretty sure I used 3/8 “ diameter. Bungie should also work. Extension springs could work if you used a bolt
Wood/Handle Material 5” $2.25 I used 3x furring strip. Trex, hardwood, stuff in the scrap bin - just about anything should work
Grand Total: $50.00 + Tax
If you have any of these already, go ahead and sub them in to lower your cost. PVC/CPVC is usually sold in 10’ lengths; you only need what I’ve listed, but you need
to pay for the whole thing. Handles are completely subjective - use what you like/have on hand. For this first blaster, just cut it square - you can always cut it to
shape later. Use whatever driver you like for your screws, I use hex-head because they can be driven with a flat-head (or anything flat) or a hex-socket
Buying one extra of each pipe fitting and an extra length of tubing/bungie will allow you to build 2 blasters for approximately $8 more, bringing the cost per blaster
to $29. Each blaster would be approximately $15.50, if you could buy only exactly what you need for each blaster (you can’t). Subbing in materials and methods
you are familiar with is highly encouraged. This list should be entirely available at Lowes or Homedepot, excepting maybe the clothespin which you can find at just
about any home or grocery store - wood or plastic are fine.

Just check to see that you have the following tools:

A Drill, 1/8” drill bit, drivers for your screws, scissors or something else to ream PVC out with, a saw, lubricant, and tape.
Notes: A drill can be a drill press, corded drill, battery drill, pin vice, dremel w/drill bits, brace & bit, whatever you know how to use. A corded Skill can be had for
$30 at most major stores. Scissors can be replaced with a pocket knife, utility knife, drill-rasps, files/rasps, sandpaper, etc. Just about anything can cut PVC
(even a piece of mason’s twine!), the trouble is cutting the wood/handle material. I reccommend buying a coping saw ($10) if you’ve got nothing else - it can cut
just like a scroll saw. I’m no lubricant expert, but stuff available in the electrical aisle should be safe. Anything safe for plastic/rubber should be good; it’s usually
white lithium or silicone. Electrical tape, duct tape, or clear packing tape will work. You could also use glue if you wanted for some parts.
 Mark-8 Cutlist
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

+/- 2”

1-1/4” PVC - 14” (cut slope as shown)

1/2” CPVC - 12”

1/2” CPVC - 14”

1/2” PVC - 12”

1/2” PVC - 2”

1/2” PVC - 2”

1/2” PVC - 3/4” Cut here

1/2” PVC - 3/4” Clothespin - cut tails off & drill 1/8” hole in front jaws

1/2” PVC COUPLER - CUT IN HALF

+/- 1/2”

WOOD/HANDLE MATERIAL - 5” (cut slope as shown or to preference - shape as desired)

 Mark-8 Bushing
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

Step 1 Insert the 2” long 1/2” PVC firmly into the 1” x 1/2” PVC Bushing.
Hammer it on something a few times to make sure it’s in tighly. Apply
glue if you have it, it isn’t a big deal if you don’t.

Step 2 Wrap the assembly in tape until it fits snugly in

the 1-1/4” PVC Plunger Tube. It should be
possible to remove, but stay in on its own and be
somewhat difficult to insert/remove.

Set aside for later.

 Mark-8 Plunger
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

Drill a hole roughly in the center of the 1/2” CPVC endcap, then
assemble the plunger head as shown with:
1” #8 Screw
1-1/4” Rubber washer
1-1/2” Rubber washer
Step 1 1-1/4” Fender washer
1/2” CPVC endcap

Step 2
Attach the plunger head to the
12” long piece of 1/2” CPVC,
then drill a hole and drive a
1/2” #8 screw in to keep it in
place. The screw won’t drive all
the way down, that is ok.

Step 3

Flip the plunger over and drill a hole roughly 2” back from the end of
the 12” long 1/2” CPVC, ream it out with the scissors.

Warning! Do not drill all the way through the plunger! Just drill through
one wall of the CPVC.
 Mark-8 Blaster Body
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

(Shape the handle as desired)

Drill holes in the bottom of the 1-1/4” PVC Plunger tube as shown
Line up the holes in the PVC Plunger tube with the handle, transfer
them with a mark, and pre-drill the handle.

Step 1

Step 2
Ream out the holes in the bottom of the 1-1/4” PVC Plunger
tube - The holes only need to be slightly larger so that the
threads on the screws don’t engage them.
Step 3
Drive the screws through the PVC Plunger tube into the wood handle.

Step 4
Ream out the 3/4” long piece of 1/2” PVC so that a piece of 1/2”
CPVC slides freely through it. You do not need to do this if you found
200 psi PVC.
Step 5
Insert the reamed-out 1/2” PVC into one half of the 1/2” PVC
coupler. Wrap it in tape so it fits snugly into the 1-1/4” PVC Plunger
tube, but still slides in and out easily. If you have 1” PVC, you can
use a 3/4” long piece to replace most of the tape.
 Mark-8 Blaster Body (Cont.)
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

Insert the coupler-bushing into the blaster as shown, so that the

back of the bushing is about 1” past the handle. Drill a hole and
drive a 1/2” #8 screw into the bushing.
Step 6
Warning! Do not drive the screw so far that it protrudes into the hole
in the 1/2” PVC ring - this will obstruct the plunger inserted later.
The screw should not be fully driven into the blaster. You can make it
drive fully by grinding off the tip until it does not interfere with the
opening.
Drill a hole through both jaws of the clothespin. Remove one jaw,
Step 7 attach the other (with the spring) to the Plunger Tube as shown wi
tape (or glue, if you have it). Drill a hole through the plunger tube
and the 1/2” PVC bushing made in steps 5/6.

Insert the 1-1/4” nail into the other jaw and reatach as shown, so
that the nail protrudes into the 1/2” PVC bushing.
Step 8 Attach the 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” corner bracket as shown.

Step 9 Tape (or glue) the corner bracket to the

jaw with the nail in it.

Warning! Do not tape the bracket to the

both jaws, or to the blaster itself! Pulling
the bracket should seperate the jaws from
eachother.
 Mark-8 Catch
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

Plunger
PVC Bushing

The catch used in this blaster is a modified clothespin “SNAP”

catch.

Nail What is happening is that, when the plunger tube is pulled back, the
clothespin snaps the nail into a hole drilled in the plunger tube
Clothespin
itself. The PVC bushing holds the nail and the plunger from bending
Angle bracket out of allignment and un-catching. Pulling the angle bracket pulls
the nail back down, releasing the plunger.

This system works with compression spring or tension spring setups,

however for simplicity I’ve used tension springs (bungies/latex
tubing) here.

The complexity in compression springs is figuring

out the catch placement, which can be eased by
using consistant spring lenghts (so they always
compress to the same point) or by leaving the
spring partially uncompressed.
 Mark-8 RSCB
“RSCB” is an acronym for “Rawray, ShortShit, Cynical Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

Synapse and 3DBBQ,” who were its creators. It is a type of

barrel/clip setup. This one holds 5-6 of my 3” long darts.

Step 1 Ream out the 2” piece of 1/2” PVC so that the 14“ long 1/2” CPVC
barrel will fit. If it won’t go all the way in, get it at least 1/2” in and
cut off the remaining 1/2” PVC. If you’re using 200 psi, wrap the
CPVC in tape so it fits snugly and doesn’t move.

Step 2 Ream out the assembly as shown - you’re trying

to get a smooth ramp for the darts to get sucked
into the barrel.

Attach all the parts as shown. Apply tape or

Step 3 glue to keep the barrel in the T. Drill holes
and insert 1/2” #8 Screws as shown, option-
ally gluing.

Note: Doing this on a flat surface will help keep everything

alligned - the better alligned this setup is, the more accurate
it should be .

Step 4
Remove the endcap to load darts, replace when finished.
 Mark-8 Final
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013

Step 1 Insert the plunger into the plunger tube as shown.

Step 2 Rotate the plunger and pull it back and fourth

until the catch engages

Step 3
Once the catch has engaged, attach the
1/2” CPVC ‘T’ as shown, drill a hole, and
Step 4
insert a 1/2” #8 screw. Attach the RSCB with a
screw as shown
Also insert the front bushing and drive two
(or more) screws into it as shown. The exact
position of the screws isnt’ critical, but they
should be on oppisite sides of the blaster.

Step 6 (Not shown)

Step 5
Pull the plunger back and pull the trigger a couple of times to check that the catch is
Attach the Latex/bungie with a double knot to the front barrel-stub.
working. If it isn’t, try expanding the hole in the plunger tube or adjusting the length of
Run the band through the CPVC ‘T’ and around to the other side of
the nail (shorten if it won’t release, get a longer one if it won’t catch). Once the plunger
the blaster, and tie another double knot around the barrel stub.
is catching reliably, remove the front bushing /RSCB and lubericate the plunger tube.

Remove the endcap on the RSCB, load it with darts, and enjoy your new blaster!
 Mark-8 Credits
Meaker VI - Nerfhaven Homemade Contest - 2013
Credits: Knot tying sequence I used:
Carbon - SNAP catch
Rork - Superlative Plunger head, SNAP improvements
Work loose end through
Boltsniper - inspiration for my modifications to the SNAP catch
RSCB - the RSCB, for which I’ve included a writeup

Wrap around and ithrough itself

Pull knot tight

Tie a second knot

Thread through CPVC ‘T’ on handle

Repeat with other end