A Practical Guide To Fibre Science (PDFDrive)
A Practical Guide To Fibre Science (PDFDrive)
A Practical Guide To Fibre Science (PDFDrive)
KAPLAN
A Practical Guide to
Fibre Science
"This page is Intentionally Left Blank"
A Practical Guide
to Fibre Science
N.S. Kaplan
ABHISHEK PUBLICATIONS
QI.AN)IGARH ~ 17 (India)
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
form, electronically or otherwise, in print, photoprint, micro film or by
any other means without written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 81-85733-42-2
ISBN : 978-81-85733-42-5
© Publishers
First Edition : 2002
Published by:
Abhishek Publications,
S.C.O. 57-59, Sector 17-C,
CHANDIGARH - 160017(lndia)
Ph. 707562, Fax 0172-704668
l. Textile Fibres 1
2. Processing of Textile Fibres 23
3. Cotton Fibres 93
4. Cotton Mixing and Blowroom Operations 112
5. Carding 122
6. Effects of Fibre Preparation on
Instrument Readings 132
7. Length of Cotton Fibres 150
8. Cotton Stickiness 166
9. White Specks 183
10. Fibre Dynamics 194
II. Roving Frame and Draw Frame 218
12. Metallic Card Clothing 234
13. Winding 248
14. Spinning Geometry 271
"This page is Intentionally Left Blank"
1
Textile Fibres
PRIMARY PROPERTIES
INDUSTRIAL REQUIREMENTS
Tenacity: 7 - 8 grams/denier
Elongation at break: 8 - 15%
4 Textile Techll%gtj
• Meltwg Point
• Modulus
• Elasticity and recovery from strain
• Tensile strength
• Density
• Moisture absorption
• Dyeability
• Comfort
The ability of a fiber to withstand the rubbing or abrasion
it gets in everyday use
POLYESTER
Characteristics
Strong
Crisp, soft hand
Resistant to stretching and shrinkage
Washable or dry-cleanable
Quick drying
Resilient, wrinkle resistant excellent pleat retention (if
heat set)
Textile Fibres 5
Abrasion resistant
Resistant to most chemicals
Because of its low absorbency, stain removal can be a
problem
Static and pilling problems
Major End Uses
RAYON
Characteristics
Drapes well
Highly absorbent
Dyes and prints well
No static, no pilling problems
Fabric can shrink appreciably if washing dry-clean-
only rayon
Washable or dry cleanable.
ACETATE
Characteristics
Luxurious appearance
Crisp or soft hand
8 Textile Technology
ACRYLIC
Characteristics
LYOCELL
Characteristics
Excellent strength
Washable
Shrink- and wrinkle-resistant
Soft hand Excellent drape
Absorbent Dyes and prints well
MICROFIBERS
Characteristics
Ultra fine (less than 1.0 dpf), finer than the most
delicate silk
Textile Fibres 11
Extremely drapeable
Very soft, luxurious hand with a silken or suede
touch
Washable, dry cleanable
Shrink-resistant
High strength (except Rayon)
Excellent pleat retention Insulates well against wind,
rain and cold
NYLON
Characteristics
Lightweight
Exceptional strength
Good drapeability
Abrasion resistant
Easy to wash
Resists shrinkage and wrinkling resilient, pleat
retentive
Fast drying, low moisture absorbency
Can be precolored or dyed in a wide range of colors
Resistant to damage from oil and many chemicals
Static and pilling can be a problem
Poor resistance to continuous sunlight
Properties
SILK
Characteristics
COTTON
Characteristics
Comfortable
Soft hand
Absorbent
Good color retention, prints well
Machine-washable, dry-cleanable
Good strength
Drapes well
Easy to handle and sew
FIBER BLENDS
MICRO FIBER
Characteristics problems
Technological developments:
Card clothing
Drawing process
Autoievelling
Cambing process
Speed frame
Ring frame
Winding
Characteristics
The textile Industry uses compressed air power in
some machinery or other, for instance blow room,
comber, spinning frame, loom, splicers to name a
few. With the use of more sophisticated, high
production machinery the need for more and more
complicated Pneumatic controls are necessitated. To
have minimum breakdowns and reliable performance
with minimum failure, in other words, to have good
quality products, the compressed air supplied to the
machine should be of the highest order, both in
QUALITY and QUANTITY.
Processing of Textile Fibres 27
Humidification
Spinning machines
Blowroom
Lakshmi
Rieter
- Trutzschler
- Crosrol
- Carding
- Lakshmi
- Rieter
- Trutzschler
- Crosrol
- MarzoH
- Comber
Lakshmi
Rieter
28 Textile Technology
- Toyoda
- Marzoli
Draw frame
Rieter
Vouk
Lakshmi
Speed frame
- Zinser
- Toyoda
- Marzoli
- Lakshmi
- Ring spinning
Lakshmi
Rieter
Zinser
- Suessen
- Toyoda
- Open end
Schlafhorst
Rieter
Lakshmi
- Winding
Schlafhorst
Savio
Processing of Textile Fibres 29
Textile resources
• AKTRIN Textile Information Center
maturity
Rigidity
fibre friction
structural features
The atmosphere in which physical tests on textile
materials are performed. It has a relative humidity of 65
+ 2 per cent and a temperature of 20 + 2° C. In tropical
and sub-tropical countries, an alternative standard
atmosphere for testing with a relative humidity of 65 + 2
per cent and a temperature of 27 + 2° C, may be used.
Fibre length
mean length
upper quartile
effective length
Modal length
2.5% span length
50% span length
32 Textile Technology
Mean length
Effective length
Modal length
Short Fibers
Fibrograph
fibres in the sample and that the point of catch for a fibre
is at random along its length.
Fibre Fineness
Air-flow method
Fibre maturity
The fibres after being swollen with 18% caustic soda are
examined under the microscope with suitable
magnification. The fibres are classified into different
maturity groups depending upon the relative dimensions
of wall-thickness and lumen. However the procedures
followed in different countries for sampling and
classification differ in certain respects. The swollen fibres
are classed into three groups as follows
Maturity co-efficient
Dyeing methods
Fibre Strength
Fibre Elongation
Fibre Rigidity
Trash content
1. spinning limit
2. yam strength
3. handle of the product
4. lustre of the product
5. yam hairiness 6.productivity
Ginning
Fiber Strength
tenacities are reported as 1/8 in. gauge tests, the 1/8 in.
(or 3.2 mm) referring to the distance between the two
Pressley clamps. Flat-bundle measurements of fiber
strength are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing
and for research studies of the influence of genotype,
environment, and processing on fiber (bundle) strength
and elongation.
The relationships between fiber strength and
elongation and processing success also have been
examined using flat-bundle strength testing methods.
However cotton fiber testing today requires that
procedures be rapid, reproducible, automated, and
without significant operator bias. Consequently, the HVI
systems used for length measurements in USDA-AMS
classing offices are also used to measure the breaking
strength of the same fiber bundles (beards) formed
during length measurement.
Originally, HVI strength tests were calibrated
against the lI8-in. gauge Pressley measurement, but the
bundle-strengths of reference cotton~ are now established
by Stelometer tests that also provide bundle elongation-
percent data. Fiber bundle elongation is measured
directly from the displacement of the jaws during the
bundle-breaking process, and the fiber bundle strength
and elongation data usually are reported together
(ASTM, 1994, D 4604-86). The HVI bundle-strength
measurements are reported in grams-force tex-1 and can
range from 30 and above (very strong) to 20 or below
(very weak). In agronomic papers, fiber strengths are
normally reported as kN m kg-I, where one Newton
equals 9.81 kg-force.
The BVI bundle-strength and elongation-percent
testing methods are satisfactory for acceptance testing
76 Textile Technology
Grade
Preparation
Fiber Color
Properties of cotton
History of Cotton
Plantation of cotton
Classification
Length Uniformity
Fiber strength
Cotton Grade
Guidelines for
Choosing Supplier:
Choosing Qaulity:
selected count.
Profit margin for each count using different varieties.
Price quoted by different Agents for same variety of
selected cotton.
Reliability of supplier for quality and timely delivery.
Cost Consideration:
Resolution of differences
Quality Evaluation:
COTTON MIXING
Bale Management
In a particular lot
• Micronaire range of the cotton bales used should be
same for all the mixings of a lot
• Micronaire average of the cotton bales used should
be same for all the mixings of a lot
• Range of color of cotton bales used should be same
for all the mixings of a lot
• Average of color of cotton bales used should be same
for all the mixings of a lot
• Range of matutrity coefficient of cotton bales used
should be same for all mixings of a lot
• Average of maturity coefficient of cotton bales used
should be same for all mixings of a lot
In practice people do not consider maturity coefficient
since Micronaire variation and maturity variation are
related to each other for a particular cotton.
It the cotton received is from different ginners, it is
better to maintain the percentage of cotton from different
ginners throught the lot, even though the type of cotton
is same.
It is p.ot advisable to mix the yarn made of out of
two different shipments of same cotton. For example ,
the first shipment of west african cotton is in january and
the second shipment is in march, it is not advisable to
mix the yarn made out of these two different shipments.
If there is no shadevariation after dyeing, then it can be
mixed.
114 Textile Technology
Disadvan tages
BLOWROOM OPERATIONS
Technological operation
Carding Machines
- Lmw card
- Rieter card
- Trutzschler card
- Crosrol card
- Marzoli card
6
Effects of Fibre Preparation on
Instrument Readings
Procedure
Blow room
Combed Process
Length
Length Uniformity
Micronaire
Strength
Colour
Trash Content
AFIS. The ITC has shown in the past few months the
value of AFIS measurements such as the short fiber
content or the standard fineness. Unfortunately,
information about distributions of fiber properties that
are measured by the AFIS are generally not used, because
the data are not available in an electronic file. This makes
the use of these data extremely unfriendly. Nevertheless,
we decided to investigate the value of the distribution
information with a focus on the influence of the fiber
length distribution on the yarn quality.
Procedures
First Experiment
Second Experiment
Fiber Tests:
Zellweger Uster HVI 900A: 4 mike measurements, 4
color-grade measurements, 10 length and strength
measurements.
Zellweger Uster AFIS Multidata: 5 replications of
3,000 fibers
Yarn Tests:
Zellweger Uster Tensorapid: 10 breaks per bobbin
and 10 bobbins
Zellweger Uster UT3: 400 yards per bobbin and 10
bobbins
The printout from the AFIS provides us with a
distribution of the length by weight. The histogram is
built based upon the percentage of fibers in each of the
40 length categories, from 0 to 2.5 inches with an
increment of 1/16th of an inch. In order to get a first
look at the data provided on those 108 cotton samples,
we limited the number of length categories to 10 by
aggregating 4 categories together; therefore, the length
category increment became 0.25 inch.
Third Experiment
Results
Cotton aphids
Stickiness Measurement
Reducing-sugar tests
Mincard method
Stickiness Control
Materials
Spinning Trials
Opening, carding, drawing, roving, ring spinning, and
rotor spinning machines used were all industrial
equipment. In the ring spinning trial, the yarns were
spun to a 19.68 x 10-6 kg m-l (19.68-tex or 30 English
number) count. Fourteen spindles were used for each mix
spun, and each mix was run for 72 h. For the open-end
spinning trials, the yarn produced was 26.84 x 10-6 kg m-
1 (26.84-tex or 22 English number); 10 positions were
used, and each mix was run for 20 h.
We ran preliminary tests on ring spinning before
testing the mixes. A 13.6 kg sample of lint from each bale
was carded and drawn. If noticeable problems occurred
at the draw frame, the process was stopped. If not, the
drawing slivers were transformed into roving. If
noticeable problems occurred at the roving frame, the
process was stopped. If not, the roving was transformed
into yarn at the ring spinning frame. If noticeable
problems occurred at the ring spinning frame, the process
was stopped. If not, 45.4 kg of lint was processed for the
large-scale test. If noticeable problems occurred at any
step of the process, the cotton was mixed with 50% non-
sticky cotton and the process was repeated. This
procedure was used for 17 large-scale tests. Four bales
were spun without mixing the lint with the non-sticky
cotton. Four bales were spun after mixing the lint with
50% non-sticky cotton.
Four bales were spun after mixing the lint with 75%
nonsticky cotton. Three bales were spun after mixing the
lint with 87.5% non-sticky cotton. Finally, two baleswere
spun after mixing the lint with 93.75% nonsticky cotton.
Card slivers, flat wastes, draw frame residues, and sticky
Cotton Stickiness 179
Dust Test
Water Adsorption
that they tend to lift the fibres to the tip of the cylinder
wire for more effective transfer to the doffer, particularly
at high cylinder speed. Lauber and Wolfhorst ,
Kamogawa, report that in this region aerodynamic forces
affect the parallelism of the fibres and the way they are
transferred to the doffer. However, no details are given.
Owing to the higher speed and larger diameter of
the cylinder, it is assumed that during transfer in the top
zone the fibres are more substantially affected by the
flow of air transported with the cylinder's than by the
doffer's wire clothing. High-speed photographs showed
that in the bottom zone the main flow of fibre mass was
with the doffer at close to the doffer speed, even when
the fibres were just below the cylinderdoffer setting line.
However, some fibres were seen to be free of both the
doffer and cylinder and tended to move with the air
currents and eventually with the motion of the cylinder
surface. From the above discussion, it can be seen that
work is still needed to establish a more detailed
understanding of fibre mass transfer between the
cylinder and doffer. The results of such work may also
help in better explaining how fibres remain on the
cylinder to form the recycling layer Q2.
Varga suggests that with fibre transfer in the top
zone, the thicker layer of web on the doffer surface
protrudes above the doffer wire and into the gap setting
between doffer and cylinder. The faster moving cylinder
wire clothing combs through the doffer web and thereby
pulls fibres back onto the cylinder surface. De Swann
showed that fibres can be readily transferred f!."Om the
doffer to the cylinder as well as from cylinder to doffer.
In Hodgson's study, changing cylinder/doffer setting
affected the neppiness of the web but did not affect K,
212 Textile Technology
Tr = 1 / K and Td = Tr . Pf
Where K = Ql / Qo and Pf = Qf / Qo
Np =1 + Vc/KVd
Where K is the transfer coefficient
Vc and Vd are cylinder and doffer
surface speeds (m/min).
Conclusions
DRAW FRAME
DRAFTING
Drafting Wave
Auto leveller
Advantages of Autoleveller
5. Stationary flats
Cylinder Wire
- Front angle
1. Front angle not only affects the carding action but
controls the lift of the fibre under the action of
centrifugal force. The higher the cylinder speed,
the lower the angle for a given fibre. Different
fibres have different co-efficients of friction values
which also determine the front angle of the wire.
2. If the front angle is more, then it is insufficient to
overcome the centrifugal lift of the fibre created
by cylinder speed. Therefore the fibre control is
lost, this will result in increasing flat waste and
more neps in the sliver.
3. If the front angle is less, then it will hold the
fibres and create excessive recyling within the
carding machine with resulting overcarding and
therefore increased fibre damage and nep
generation.
4. Lack of parallelisation, fibre damage, nep
generation, more flat waste etc. etc., are all
consequences of the wrong choice of front angle.
- Tooth pitch
1. Each fibre has a linear density determined by its
diameter to length ratio. Fine fibres and long
fibres necessitates more control during the carding
process. This control is obtained by selecting the
tooth pitch which gives the correct contact ratio of
the number of teeth to fibre length.
2. Exceptionally short fibres too require more
control, in this case , it is not because of the
stiffness but because it is more difficult to
parallelise the fibres with an open tooth pitch
giving a low contact ratio.
Metallic Card Clothing 237
- Rib thickness
1. The rib thickness of the cylinder wire controls the
carding "front" and thus the carding power.
Generally the finer the fibre, the finer the rib
width. The number of points across the carding
machine is determined by the carding machine's
design, production rate and the fibre dimensions.
General trend is towards finer rib thicknesses,
especially for high and very low production
machines.
2. Rib thickness should be selected properly, if there
are too many wire points across the machine for a
given cylinder speed, production rate and fibre
fineness, "BLOCKAGE" takes place with
disastrous results from the point of view of
carding quality. In such cases, either the cylinder
speed has to be increased or most likely the
production rate has to be reduced to improve the
sliver quality
- Point population
The population of a wire is the product of the rib
thickness and tooth pitch per unit area. The general rule
higher populations for higher production rates, but it is
not true always. It depends upon other factors like
production rate, fineness, frictional properties etc.
- Tooth point
The tooth point is important from a fibre penetration
point of view. It also affects the maintenance and
consistency of performance. Most of the recent cylinder
wires have the smallest land or cut-to-point. Sharp points
penetrate the fibre more easily and thus reduce friction,
which in tum reduces wear on the wire and extends wire
life.
238 Textile Technology
- Blade thickness
Blade thickness affects the fibre penetration. The blade
thickness is limited by practical considerations,but the
finer the blade the better the penetration of fibres. Wires
with thin blade thickness penetrate the more easily and
thus reduce friction, which in turn reduces wear on the
wire and extends wire life.
- Back angle
A lower back angle reduces fibre loading, but a higher
value of back angle assists fibre penetration. Between the
two extremes is an angle which facilitates both the
reduction in loading and assists fibre penetration and at
the same time gives the tooth sufficient strength to do the
job for which it was designed.
- Hardness of wire
The cylinder wire needs to be hard at the tip of the tooth
where the carding action takes place.The hardness is
graded from the hard tip to the soft rib. High carbon
alloy steel is used to manufacture a cylinder wire and it
is flame hardened. Rib should not be hardened,
otherwise, it will lead to mounting problems.
The design or type of clothing, selected for the fibre
to be carded is important,but it is fair to state that
within reason, an incorrect design of clothing in
perfect condition can give acceptable carding quality
whereas a correct clothing design in poor condition
will never give acceptable carding quality.
There is no doubt that the condition of the clothings is
the most important single factor affecting quality at high
rates of production. Wire condition and selection of wire
are considered to be the two most important factors
Metallic Card Clothing 239
DoHer Wire
Licker-in Wire
Flat Tops
Grinding
Waxing Process
Functioning Principle
\
Setting a higher speed than the actual is likely to result in
higher number of cuts. Similarly a lower speed setting
relative to the actual causes less cuts with some faults
escaping without being cut. In most of the modern day
clearers, the count, material number and speeds are
monitored and automatically corrected during actual
running of the yarn.
Fault Channels
Contamination Clearing
Splicing
Pneumatic Splicing
Structure of Splice
Wrapping
Twisting
Tucking I Intermingling
263 \
The middle portion of the splice is a region (2-5 mm)
with no distinct order. The fibres from each yarn end
intermingle in this splice zone just by tucking. The
studies on quantitative contribution of splice elements
showed that intermingling/tucking contributes the most
to the strength of splice (52%), followed by twisting
(33%) and wrapping (about 15%). The lower strength of
the splice is attributed to the lower packing coefficient of
the splice zone. Spliced yarn has a lower breaking
elongation than normal yarn. Breaking elongation is
mainly affected by intermingling. Wrapping and twisting
provides mainly transverse forces. The absence of fibre
migration gives lower breaking elongation to splice.
Effect of Variables on the Properties of the Spliced
yarn. Several studies have been conducted on the effect
of various variables on the properties of the spliced yarn.
Winding Speed
count
the number of doffs. It depends upon the doff
weight. Higher the doff weight, lower the number of
doffs
the time taken for each doff either by the doffer or by
an operator
Down time due to red light. It depends upon,
number of red lights, number of repeaters setting for
red lights, clearer settings like off count channel,
cluster setting which will result in red lights and
others
bobbin rejections, it depends on weak yarn, wrong
gaiting, double gaiting, bobbin characteritics etc.
14
Spinning Geometry
Spinning Triangle
TRAVELLER
Parts of a traveller
Technological Gttideeliness
Traveller cleaners
Room climate
Running-in of rings
HAIRINESS
Advatages
Knitting
Compact Yarns with their increased yarn strength and
reduced formation of fluff permit to achieve higher
machine efficiency and therefore production on knitting
machines at a reduced ends-down rate,less interruptions
and less fabric faults. Production costs therefore decrease.
The enormously low hairiness of compact Yarns often
permits to dispense with usual waxing. Considerable cost
saving is achieved because of this.
In knitting fibre abrasion reduced by 40% due to low
hairiness. Fewer defects/ yarn breaks and better quality.
Less contamination on all machines by foreign fibres.
Less wear of needles, guide elements and sinkers due to
less dust in the compact Yarn . Low hairiness has
Spinning Geometry 297
USTER
ZWEIGLE
S3yam 2 =4.
A clear indication that yam 2 is "more hairy "than yam
1. The CV value of hairiness is given a histogram
(graphical representation of the distribution of the
hairiness) is given.
The USTER H value only gives an average,which is
of limited use when analyzing the hairiness of the
yam. The Zweigle testing equipment gives the complete
distributionof the different lengths of the hairs. The S3
value distinguishes between long and short hairiness,
which is more informative than the H value.