COSMETIC SCIENC

List of tables
SR.NO CONTENT PAGE NO.
1. Introduction 1

2. Overview of Oily Skin 2

3. Causes of oily Skin 3

4. Overview of Dry Skin 3

5. Causes of Dry skin 3

6. Skin Moisturization 15

7. Comedogenic 21

8. Dermatitis 22
 INTODUCTION
OILY SKIN AND CAUSES OF OILY SKIN

Overview
Oily skin is the result of the overproduction of sebum from sebaceous glands. These glands are
located under the skin’s surface.

Sebum is an oily substance made of fats. Sebum isn’t all bad since it helps protect and
moisturize your skin and keep your hair shiny and healthy.

Too much sebum, however, may lead to oily skin, which can lead to clogged pores and acne.
Genetics, hormone changes, or even stress may increase sebum production.

Causes of oily skin.

Notice that your skin emits a little extra shine? Fact is, everyone has oil in their skin. Under each
of your pores is a sebaceous gland that produces natural oils called sebum. This helps keep your
skin hydrated and healthy.

In some people, though, the sebaceous glands can produce too much oil. This creates oily skin.
You know you have oily skin if your skin constantly looks shiny, and you go through several
blotting sheets a day. Oily skin can even feel greasy within hours of cleansing.

Breakouts are also more likely because the sebum mixes with dead skin cells and gets stuck in
your pores.

The causes of oily skin include genetic, environmental, and lifestyle factors. While you can’t
necessarily get rid of oily skin, you can take steps to make your skin less oily. The key is to
identify one or more of these seven underlying causes.

1. Genetics

Oily skin tends to run in families. If one of your parents has oily skin, you’re likely to have
overactive sebaceous glands, too.

2. Age

While you don’t necessarily grow out of oily skin, your skin will indeed produce less sebum as
you age. Aging skin loses protein, such as collagen, and the sebaceous glands slow down.

This is why many people who have aging skin also have dry skin. This is also the time when fine
lines and wrinkles are more noticeable because of the lack of collagen and sebum.

One benefit of oily skin is that you may not show signs of aging as quickly as your drier
counterparts.

You may have oily skin now, but you’ll need to evaluate your skin as you get older. Even people
in their 30s may not have the same skin composition as they did in their teens and 20s.

An aesthetician can help evaluate your skin type every few years to see if you need to make
any changes to your skin care routine.
3. Where you live and the time of year
While genetics and age drive the underlying causes of oily skin, where you live and the time of
year can also make a difference.

People tend to have oilier skin in hot, humid climates. You’re also more likely to have more oil
on your skin during the summer than you would in the fall or winter.

While you may not be able to pick up and move away because of your oily skin, you can adjust
your
daily routine during days of high heat and humidity.

Keep blotting sheets on hand to touch up excess oil throughout the day. A matte moisturizer or
foundation can also help soak up extra oil.

4. Enlarged pores

Sometimes your pores can stretch out due to age, weight fluctuations, and previous breakouts.
Larger pores also tend to produce more oil.

You can’t shrink your pores, but you can take extra care to blot areas of your face with enlarged
pores throughout the day.

5. Using the wrong skin care products

Oily skin can also be brought on by using the wrong skin care products for your skin type. Some
people mistake combination skin for oily skin, and they might use too heavy creams, for
example.

If you have drier skin during the winter months, you may need to change your skin care plan for
the spring and summer with lightweight moisturizers and gel-based cleansers.

Using the correct skin care products can make a huge difference in the amount of oil that’s left
on your face.

6. Overdoing your skin care routine

On the flip side, washing your face or exfoliating too often can also make your skin oily. This can
seem like an oxymoron, since the purpose of washing and exfoliating is to get rid of oil.
But if you do this too often, you strip away too much of the oil from your skin. This can cause
your sebaceous glands to go into emergency mode, where they produce even more oil to make
up for the loss.

You only need to wash your skin twice a day to keep excess oil at bay.

Failing to wear sunscreen can also dry out your skin, leading to more sebum production. Make
sure you wear sunscreen every single day. Moisturizers and foundations with sunscreen tend to
be less oily, but you may still need to reapply throughout the day.

7. Skipping your moisturizer

It’s a myth that moisturizer causes oily skin. In fact, if you’re using acne treatments such as
salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, you definitely need a good moisturizer to keep your skin from
drying out. Without moisturizer, any skin type will dry out.

So instead of skipping moisturizer, the key is to find the right kind of moisturizer. Lightweight,
water-based moisturizers work well for oily skin. Always make this your last step after cleansing
and toning.

Also look for products that say they’re “oil-free” and “non-comedogenic” to help keep pores
clear.

Takeaway
Oily skin is complex with many causes. It’s also possible to have more than one cause of oily
skin.

For example, oily skin may run in your family, and you might also live in a humid climate. In such
cases, you’ll need to address all the causes of excess oil to help achieve cleaner, clearer skin.

Once you’ve come up with your oily skin action plan, you’ll need to give it some time to work.
Sometimes it can take a month or two until you see any major improvements. If you’re still
dealing with excess oil after this time, you may want to see your dermatology.

DRY SKIN AND CAUSES OF DRY SKIN

Dry skin is a very common skin condition characterized by a lack of the appropriate amount of
water in the most superficial layer of the skin, the epidermis. While dry skin tends to affect
males and females equally, older individuals are typically much more prone to dry skin. The skin
in elderly individuals tends to have diminished amounts of natural skin oils and lubricants. Areas
such as the arms, hands, and particularly lower legs tend to be more affected by dry skin.
Environmental factors, such as humidity and temperature, have a profound effect on the
amount of water retained within the skin. For example, cold, dry air when heated by a furnace
will produce dry skin by evaporating moisture on the skin. Frequent hand-washing and
sanitizing causes evaporation and dryness. Dry skin may also be a side effect of some
medications as well as a byproduct of certain skin diseases.

The epidermis is normally composed of fat (lipid) and protein. The lipid portion of the epidermis
along with specific epidermal proteins (for example, filaggrin) help prevent skin dehydration.
When there deficient proteins and/or lipids the skin moisture evaporates more easily. As skin
becomes dry, it also may become more sensitive and prone to rashes and skin breakdown.
The medical term for dry skin is xerosis. Simple prevention and treatment measures are very
effective in the treatment of dry skin. Basic dry skin prevention steps include avoidance of harsh
soaps and chemical cleansers. Treatment generally requires more frequent and regular
applications of bland emollients and moisturizers. Untreated, dry skin may result in
complications, including, eczematous dermatitis, secondary bacterial infections, cellulitis, and
skin discoloration. Fortunately, dry skin is usually mild and can be easily remedied.

DRY SKIN SYMPTOM

Itch is an irritation in the skin that elicits an urge to scratch. Itches are a problem that everyone
experiences, and the symptom can be localized (limited to one area of the body) or generalized
(occurring all over the body or in several different areas). Sometimes, depending upon the
underlying cause, itching may be worse at night. In medical terminology, itching is known as
pruritus.

Generalized itch that occurs all over the body is often more difficult to treat than localized itch.
Itches can also occur with or without skin lesions (bumps, blisters, rash, redness, or
abnormalities that can be seen on the skin). An itch that is accompanied by a visible skin
abnormality should be evaluated by a physician and, in some cases, by a dermatologist since the
problem is likely to be a condition that requires specialized medical treatment (for example,
eczema, scabies, etc.).

CAUSES OF DRY SKIN

There is no single cause of dry skin. Dry skin causes can be classified as external and internal.
•External factors include cold temperatures and low humidity, especially during the winter
when central heaters are used.
• Internal factors include overall health, age, genetics, family history, and a personal history of
other medical conditions like atopic dermatitis. In particular those with certain thyroid diseases
are more prone to developing dry skin.

External factors that cause dry skin include :-

• over-washing with harsh soaps,

• overuse of sanitizers and lipid solvents (alcohol),
• cold temperature,
• low humidity.

One of the most common factors causing dry skin is frequent application of harsh soaps. The
type of soap may have a large impact on dry skin. Soap is an emulsifier that removes oils on the
skin. The more often skin is scrubbed with soap, the more oil is removed, ultimately resulting in
dryer skin. Excessive use of soaps can worsen dry skin.

• Harsh soaps and detergents. Many popular soaps, detergents and shampoos strip moisture
from your skin as they are formulated to remove oil.
• Other skin conditions. People with skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema) or
psoriasis are prone to dry skin.

SKIN MOISTURISATION

Dry skin can make you look dull and old. It is absolutely essential to provide your skin hydration
so that it looks healthy. But it is not just the people with dry skin who need to do this. Not many
know that even people with normal, combination, and oily skin must also moisturize their skin.
No matter the season, a moisturizer is essential for beautiful skin. Using a moisturizer every day
can make your skin glow and provide deep hydration. The sun’s UV rays, along with seasonal
changes in weather can cause a lot of damage to the skin, making it very dry. This dryness
further leads to itching, dry patches, and many other skin problems. If you want your skin to
stay free of these problems, you’ll need to moisturize it daily.

Although there are many moisturizers available in retail shops and online stores, you could do
with some ingredients found right at your home. These homemade moisturizers contain fresh
nutrients and can provide amazing results. Here they are!

The ingredients that can moisturize your skin

Moisturizers, which rehydrate the top layer of skin cells and seal in the water, are one of the
best ways to treat dry skin. They contain three main types of ingredients:

1. Humectants:
These substances help attract moisture. They include ceramides (pronounced ser-A-mids),
glycerin, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid, and lecithin.

2. Occlusives:
These ingredients —including petrolatum (petroleum jelly), silicone, lanolin, and
various oils—help seal moisture within the skin.
3. Emollients:
These products contain oil, water, and an emulsifier to keep the two from separating. They are
lighter and easier to apply than petrolatum or oils. Many commercial moisturizers contain both
an emollient and a humectant, such as linoleic, linolenic, and lauric acids.
In general, the thicker and greasier a product, the more effectively it will moisturize your skin.
Some of the most effective and least expensive are petroleum jelly and its vegetable-based
alternatives, and moisturizing oils, including vegetable oils. Because they contain no water,
they're best used while the skin is still damp from bathing, to seal in the moisture.

Lotions designed to moisturize your skin contain water as well as oil, in varying proportions.
They usually include both humectants and emollients and can be applied to skin throughout the
day.

Moisturize your skin

Moisturizers are the first, but not the only ways to treat dry skin. It can also help to do the
following:

• Use a humidifier in the winter. Set it to around 60%, a level that should be sufficient to
moisturize your skin.

• Keep showers short. Limit yourself to one 5- to 10-minute bath or shower daily. If you bathe
more than that, you may strip away much of the skin's oily layer and cause it to lose moisture.
Use lukewarm rather than hot water, which can wash away natural oils.

• Minimize your use of soaps. Consider soap-free cleansers. Steer clear of deodorant soaps,
perfumed soaps, and alcohol products, which can strip away natural oils. Use fragrance-free
laundry detergents and avoid fabric softeners, too.

• Be gentle to your skin. Stay away from bath sponges, scrub brushes, and rough washcloths.
For the same reason, pat or blot (don't rub) the skin when toweling dry.

• Don't scratch. Most of the time, a moisturizer can control the itch. You can also use a cold
pack or compress to relieve itchy spots.
• Prune your wardrobe. If you find that clothing containing wool, acrylics, or other fabrics
irritates your skin, give those garments away.
 COMEDOGENIC AND DERMATITIS

Comedogenic
Tending to cause blackheads by blocking the pores of the skin.

"Comedo" is Latin for blackhead - dirt or fatty matter in a skin duct. "Genic" means "producing"
or "favoring"- as in photogenic.
Comedogenic therefore literally means "blackhead causing", and is conventionally accepted to
be acne-causing, since clogged pores are an important cause of acne.

The average adult has around 5 million pores on his skin (one for each hair, which is all over the
body, even if invisible). Ingredients that have the tendency to accumulate in the pores and jam
them up are comedogenic. Ingredients that do not have this tendency are non-comedogenic.
These are the two extremes, and there are lots of ingredients in between.
Acne is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition that causes spots and pimples, especially on the
face, shoulders, back, neck, chest, and upper arms.

The glands produce oil and are stimulated by male hormones produced by the adrenal glands in
both males and females.

At least 85 percent of people in the U.S. experience acne between the ages of 12 and 24 years.
Acne pimples vary in size, color, and level of pain.

The following types are possible:

• Whiteheads: These remain under the skin and are small

• Blackheads: Clearly visible, they are black and appear on the surface of the skin
• Papules: Small, usually pink bumps, these are visible on the surface of the skin
• Pustules: Clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are red at their base and have pus at
the top
• Nodules: Clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are large, solid, painful pimples that
are embedded deep in the skin
• Cysts: Clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are painful and filled with pus. Cysts can
cause scars.

Causes

• Human skin has pores that connect to oil glands under the skin. Follicles connect the glands to
the pores. Follicles are small sacs that produce and secrete liquid.
• The glands produce an oily liquid called sebum. Sebum carries dead skin cells through the
follicles to the surface of the skin. A small hair grows through the follicle out of the skin.
• Pimples grow when these follicles get blocked, and oil builds up under the skin.
• Skin cells, sebum, and hair can clump together into a plug. This plug gets infected with
bacteria, and swelling results. A pimple starts to develop when the plug begins to break down.

Hormonal factors

A range of factors triggers acne, but the main cause is thought to be a rise in androgen levels.
Androgen is a type of hormone, the levels of which rise when adolescence begins. In women, it
gets converted into estrogen.
Rising androgen levels cause the oil glands under the skin to grow. The enlarged gland produces
more sebum. Excessive sebum can break down cellular walls in the pores, causing bacteria to
grow.

Other possible triggers

Some studies suggest that genetic factors may increase the risk.

Other causes include:

• Some medications that contain androgen and lithium

• Greasy cosmetics
• Hormonal changes
• Emotional stress
• Menstruation

Treatment

Treatment depends on how severe and persistent the acne is.

Mild acne

Mild acne can be treated with over-the-counter (OTC) medications, such as gels, soaps, pads,
creams, and lotions, that are applied to the skin.
Creams and lotions are best for sensitive skin. Alcohol-based gels dry the skin and are better for
oily skin.
OTC acne remedies may contain the following active ingredients:
• Resorcinol: helps break down blackheads and whiteheads
• Benzoyl peroxide: kills bacteria, accelerates the replacement of skin, and slows the
production of sebum
• Salicylic acid: assists the breakdown of blackheads and whiteheads and helps reduce
inflammation and swelling
• Sulfur: exactly how this works is unknown
• Retin-A: helps unblock pores through cell turnover
• Azelaic acid: strengthens cells that line the follicles, stops sebum eruptions, and reduces
bacterial growth. There is cream for acne, but other forms are used for rosacea.

It is advisable to start with the lowest strengths, as some preparations can cause skin irritation,
redness, or burning on first use.
These side effects normally subside after continued use. If not, see a doctor.

Treating moderate to severe acne

A skin specialist, or dermatologist, can treat more severe cases.

They may prescribe a gel or cream similar to OTC medications but stronger, or an oral or topical
antibiotic.

Corticosteroid injection

If an acne cyst becomes severely inflamed, it may rupture. This can lead to scarring.
A specialist may treat an inflamed cyst by injecting a diluted corticosteroid.
This can help prevent scarring, reduce inflammation, and speed up healing. The cyst will break
down within a few days.

Oral antibiotics

Oral antibiotics may be prescribed for up to 6 months for patients with moderate to severe
acne.
These aim to lower the population of P. Acnes. The dosage will start high and reduce as the acne
clears.
P. acnes can become resistant to the antibiotic in time, and another antibiotic is needed. Acne is
more likely to become resistant to topical rather than oral antibiotics.
Antibiotics can combat the growth of bacteria and reduce inflammation.
Erythromycin and tetracycline are commonly prescribed for acne.

Oral contraceptives

Oral contraceptives can help control acne in women by suppressing the overactive gland. They
are commonly used as long-term acne treatments.
These may not be suitable for women who:
• have a blood-clotting disorder
• smoke
• have a history of migraines
• are over 35 years old
It is important to check with a gynecologist first.

Topical antimicrobials

Topical antimicrobials also aim to reduce P. acnes in patients with moderate to severe acne.
Examples are clindamycin and sodium sulfacetamide.
The dermatologist may prescribe a topical retinoid.
Topical retinoids are a derivative of vitamin A. They unclog the pores and prevent whiteheads
and blackheads from developing.
Examples of topical retinoids prescribed in the U.S. are adapalene, tazarotene, and tretinoin.

Isotretinoin

This is a strong, oral retinoid, used for the treatment of severe cystic acne and severe acne that
has not responded to other medications and treatments.
It is a strictly controlled medication with potentially serious side effects. The patient must sign a
consent form to say that they understand the risks.
Adverse effects include dry skin, dry lips, nosebleeds, fetal abnormalities if used during
pregnancy, and mood swings.
Patients who take isotretinoin must avoid vitamin A supplements, as these could lead to vitamin
A toxicity.

Dermatitis
Overview

Dermatitis is a general term that describes a skin irritation. Dermatitis is a common condition
that has many causes and occurs in many forms. It usually involves itchy, dry skin or a rash on
swollen, reddened skin. Or it may cause the skin to blister, ooze, crust or flake off. Examples of
this condition are atopic dermatitis (eczema), dandruff and contact dermatitis.

Dermatitis isn't contagious, but it can make you feel uncomfortable and self-conscious.
Moisturizing regularly helps control the symptoms. Treatment may also include medicated
ointments, creams and shampoos.
 Types

1. Atopic dermatitis (eczema)

2. Contact dermatitis
3. Cradle cap
4. Diaper rash
5. Seborrheic dermatitis

Seborrheic dermatitis on the face

Each type of dermatitis may look a little different and tends to occur on different parts of your
body. Signs and symptoms of different types of dermatitis include:

• Atopic dermatitis (eczema):

Usually beginning in infancy, this red, itchy rash usually occurs where the skin flexes — inside
the elbows, behind the knees and in front of the neck. The rash may leak fluid when scratched
and crust over. People with atopic dermatitis may experience improvement and then seasonal
flare-ups.

• Contact dermatitis:
This red, itchy stinging rash occurs where your skin has come into contact with substances that
irritate the skin or cause an allergic reaction. You may develop blisters.

• Seborrheic dermatitis:
This condition causes scaly patches, red skin and stubborn dandruff. It usually affects oily areas
of the body, such as the face, upper chest and back. Seborrheic dermatitis can be a long-term
condition with periods of improvement and then seasonal flare-ups. In infants, this condition is
called cradle cap.

• Follicular eczema:
With this type, the affected skin thickens and develops bumps in hair follicles. This condition is
common in African Americans and in people with dark-brown skin.

Causes of the most common types of dermatitis include:

• Atopic dermatitis (eczema):
This type is likely related to dry skin, a gene variation, an immune system dysfunction, a skin
infection, exposure to food, airborne, or contact allergens, or a combination of these.

• Contact dermatitis:
This type results from contact with something that irritates your skin or causes an allergic
reaction. Irritants or allergens include poison ivy, perfumes, jewelry containing nickel, cleaning
products, and the preservatives.
• Seborrheic dermatitis:
This type is caused by a yeast (fungus) that is in the oil secretion on the skin. Risk factors

Common risk factors for dermatitis include:

• Age:
Dermatitis can occur at any age, but atopic dermatitis (eczema) usually begins in infancy.

• Allergies and asthma:

People who have a personal or family history of eczema, allergies, hay fever or asthma are more
likely to develop atopic dermatitis.

• Occupation:
Jobs that put you in contact with certain metals, solvents or cleaning supplies increase your risk
of contact dermatitis. Being a health care worker is linked to hand eczema.

• Health conditions:
Health conditions that put you at increased risk of seborrheic dermatitis include congestive
heart failure, Parkinson's disease and HIV/AIDS.

Complications

Scratching the itchy rash associated with dermatitis can cause open sores, which may become
infected. These skin infections can spread and may very rarely become life-threatening.

Prevention

Wear protective clothing if you are doing a task that involves irritants or caustic chemicals.
Avoid dry skin by adopting these habits when bathing:

• Take shorter baths and showers:

Limit your baths and showers to 5 to 10 minutes. Use warm, rather than hot, water. Bath oil also
may be helpful.

• Use a gentle, nonsoap cleanser:

Choose unscented nonsoap cleansers. Some soaps can dry your skin. • Dry yourself gently. After
bathing, gently pat your skin dry with a soft towel.

• Moisturize your skin:

While your skin is still damp, seal in moisture with an oil, cream or lotion. Try different products
to find one that works for you. Ideally, the best one for you will be safe, effective, affordable and
unscented. Two small studies showed that applying a protective moisturizer to the skin of
infants at high risk of atopic dermatitis reduced the incidence of the condition by up to 50
percent.

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