Popular Woodworking

THE ONLY MORTISING JIG YOU’LL EVER NEED
6 SIMPLE STEPS TO MAKE YOUR JACK PLANE WORK RIGHT

APRIL 2002
ISSUE #127
ULTIMATE
TOOL
CABINET
Built for a
LIFETIME of
Woodworking
5 CRITICAL
RULES
for Buying
a Compressor
$30
LUMBER RACK
Super-sturdy
Weekend Project
www.popwood.com
$4.99 U.S. $7.99 CAN
PLUS Outdoor Morris Chair

0 4>
Shaker Storage Cabinet • Knockdown Bookcase

0 71486 01355 6
Actor Dan Haggerty
with Ben, Stars of
“Grizzly Adams” PURVEYORS OF FINE MACHINERY™ – SINCE 1983
MODEL G8794 MODEL G1021Z MODEL G1033
1
12 ⁄2" Portable Planer 15" Planer w/ CABINET Stand 20" Planer
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• 2 H.P., 110V • PRECISION GROUND CAST IRON BED • TABLE IS PRECISION-GROUND TO A MIRROR-LIKE FINISH
MOTOR, 15 AMPS • CUTTERHEAD SPEED: 5000 R.P.M. • CUTTERHEAD SPEED: 4833 R.P.M.
• CUTTERHEAD SPEED: • RATE OF FEED: 16 F.P.M. & 20 F.P.M. • RATE OF FEED: 16 F.P.M. & 20 F.P.M.
8,540 R.P.M. • MAX. CUTTING WIDTH: 147⁄8" • MAX. CUTTING DEPTH: 1⁄8" • MAX. CUTTING WIDTH: 20" • HEAVY-DUTY CAST IRON
• FEED RATE: • MAX. CUTTING HEIGHT: 61⁄8" • NUMBER OF KNIVES: 3
Actor 25 F.P.M.
• MAX. CUTTING HEIGHT: 85⁄8" CONSTRUCTION
Dan Haggerty • ALL BALL BEARING • MAX. CUTTING DEPTH: 1⁄8" • APPROX. SHIPPING
• NUMBER OF PUTS PER CONSTRUCTION • NUMBER OF KNIVES: 4 H.S.S. WEIGHT: 785 LBS.
INCH: 57 • APPROX. SHIPPING
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THICKNESS: 3⁄16" CUTTERHEAD!
• MAX. CUTTING
WIDTH: 121⁄2" 1999
• MAX. CUTTING HEIGHT: 6"

• MAX. CUTTING DEPTH: 1⁄16"
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MODEL G1182HW MODEL G1182ZX MODEL G1018HW
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• 1 H.P., SINGLE-PHASE, 110/220V MOTOR (PRE-WIRED TO 110 V) • 1 H.P., SINGLE-PHASE, 110/220V MOTOR (PRE-WIRED TO 110 V) • 3-KNIFE CUTTERHEAD IS 3" IN DIA. AND RUNS IN
• HEAVY-DUTY ONE PIECE STEEL STAND W/BUILT IN CHIP CHUTE • HEAVY-DUTY ONE PIECE STEEL STAND W/BUILT IN CHIP CHUTE SHIELDED, PRE-LUBRICATED BALL BEARINGS
• PRECISION GROUND CAST IRON BED • PRECISION GROUND CAST IRON BED • POWERFUL 11⁄2 H.P., 220V SINGLE PHASE MOTOR
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• TABLE SIZE: 6" X 47" • 1⁄2" RABBETING CAPACITY
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• 1⁄2" RABBETING CAPACITY
• MAXIMUM DEPTH OF CUT IS 1⁄2" AND
INFEED TABLE HAS RABBETING LEDGE
FREE
PAIR OF SAFETY
• APPROX. SHIP. WEIGHT: 215 LBS. • APPROX. SHIPPING • SUPER HEAVY-DUTY CAST IRON BED PUSH BLOCKS
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1
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• HEAVY-DUTY 11⁄2 H.P., 110/220V MOTOR • 3" SPINDLE TRAVEL • MAXIMUM CUTTING HEIGHT: 63⁄8"
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• SPINDLE OPENINGS: 11⁄4", 31⁄2", AND 5" REVERSING SWITCH • TABLE HEIGHT ABOVE FLOOR: 421⁄2"
it, honey?” • PRECISION-GROUND CAST IRON TABLE • 3" SPINDLE TRAVEL • TWO SPINDLE SPEEDS: 7,000 AND 10,000 R.P.M. • TABLE TILT: 45° RIGHT, 10° LEFT
• TABLE SIZE: 201⁄4" X 18" • SPINDLE OPENINGS: 13⁄8", 23⁄4", 4", AND 51⁄2" • WHEELS: FULLY BALANCED CAST
• FLOOR-TO-TABLE HEIGHT: 331⁄2" • PRECISION-GROUND CAST IRON TABLE ALUMINUM WITH RUBBER TIRES
• ALL BALL BEARING CONSTRUCTION • TABLE SIZE WITH STANDARD • MOTOR: 1 H.P., TEFC,
• MAX. CUTTER DIAMETER: 5" WING ATTACHED: 301⁄2" X 281⁄4" 110V / 220V SINGLE PHASE
• APPROX. SHIPPING • FLOOR-TO-TABLE • AMPS: 12@110V / 6@220V
WEIGHT: 220 LBS. HEIGHT: 34" • BLADE SPEEDS: 2500 & 3350
• APPROX. SHIPPING F.P.M.
G1706 WEIGHT: 353 LBS. • BLADE SIZE: 98" (1⁄8" TO 3⁄4"
EXTENSION WING SHOWN WIDE)
NOT INCLUDED • APPROX. SHIP. WT. 165 LBS.
ONLY ONLY ONLY

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with Shop fox classic fence HEAVY-DUTY TABLE SAW • RAIL DIMENSIONS: 44" X 13⁄8" • MAX. RIPPING CAPACITY: 24"
• 2 H.P. MOTOR • PRECISION SHOP FOX® FENCE • CUTTING CAPACITY AT 90˚: 31⁄8" • CUTTING CAPACITY AT 45˚: 21⁄8" • 11⁄2
• PRECISION GROUND TABLE & WINGS • CAST IRON MITER GAUGE ADJUSTS TO • 3 H.P. SINGLE-PHASE, 220V MOTOR • MAXIMUM DEPTH OF CUT @ 90°: 3"
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MODEL G1066 MODEL G9983 • OVERALL HEIGHT: 641⁄2" • SWING: 17"
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• SPINDLE TAPER: MT #3 • SPINDLE TRAVEL: 43⁄4"
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(open end) • TABLE SIZE: 135⁄8" SQ.
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content TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES
16 Sturdy Fold-Away Sawhorses
TRICKS OF THE TRADE
We like plastic folding sawhorses, but they get expensive. You can build your own using this clever
idea sent in by a reader. Also, learn to set up your dovetail jig to become a precision dado machine.
18 HTC Rip Fence Improves the Venerable Biesemeyer

TOOL TEST
By adding a micro-adjustability feature and easy-to-remove fence faces, HTC has refined the classic
Biesemeyer fence system found in most commercial woodshops. We tell you if it’s worth upgrading.
18 We also test Milwaukee’s BodyGrip router and Bosch’s 1619EVS plunge router.
22 Multipurpose Sled and Tenon Jig

INGENIOUS JIGS
Instead of purchasing an expensive aftermarket miter gauge, try this shop-made cutoff sled with a
smart tenoning attachment. The whole rig is simple, inexpensive and highly accurate.
By Nick Engler
25 Grizzly 1023S Cabinet Saw

ENDURANCE TEST
This cabinet saw — with the price tag of a contractor saw — has turned the table saw market for home
woodworkers upside down. After two years of hard use in our shop, we tell you how the 1023S fared.
22
38 Air Compressors in the Shop
The right compressor can transform your woodworking by giving you access to spray finishing and nail
guns. With prices dropping every year, here’s what you need to know to buy the right machine.
By Rick Peters
48 Metal-bodied Jack Planes

Many woodworkers do everything in their power to avoid using hand planes. And no wonder: Bench
planes are tricky to set up and use. Here’s a complete lesson on how to buy, set up and use a metal-
bodied jack plane — one of the most useful all-around planes.
70 Mortising Jig for a Router

You can make highly accurate mortises using your plunge router and a simple jig made from shop
scraps with some simple hardware. Here’s how to build and use one of our favorite jigs.
48 74 Using a Cutting List

A properly organized cutting list can help you avoid costly and
frustrating mistakes, and make your work on a project feel
much more under your control. Here are the tips from a
lifelong pro.
By Lonnie Bird
76 $30 Lumber Rack

Most people buy expensive brackets or build
bulky shelves to store lumber. Here’s a third way.
It’s inexpensive, flexible, cheap and takes up
little space in your shop.
38
76
2 POPULAR WOODWORKING April 2002

s
PROJECTS
30 Ultimate Tool Cabinet
If you’ve got the tools, the time, the wood
and the skills, then we’ve got the project.
ON THE COVER
30
This father-and-son tool cabinet is your Built in a garage using

final exam in case construction. If you’re machines found in
not ready to take the test, you still can most home shops, this
learn a lot about designing tool storage for tool cabinet is one
whatever type of tool cabinet is on your ultimate woodworking
drawing board. project. Father-and-son
By Glen and Malcolm Huey
team Glen and
42 All-Weather Malcolm Huey joined
forces to show you
Morris Chair how to build enough
Armed with $40 in pine, a saw and a drill, storage space for
you can build this fall-asleep-in-it outdoor
almost any set of tools.
Morris chair. Start in the morning, and
it’ll be ready by nap time. Our personal Cover photo by Al Parrish
best time for construction: four hours.
57 A Child’s Double 62
Dulcimer IN EVERY ISSUE
This Appalachian folk instrument is easy to play and build (no curves here). Our version
is designed so two people can play at the same time.
By Claude Crowley
6 Out on a Limb
Feeling Set Up
62 Shaker Storage Cabinet 8 Letters

Whatever you’ve got to store, this face-frame cabinet can probably take it. Mail from readers
Two different shelving systems help you pack away stuff that’s either heavy or light.
By Troy Sexton 12 Q&A
66 Knockdown Bookcase
We answer readers’
most difficult questions
This unusual and useful Arts & Crafts
bookcase can be taken completely apart 26 American
with four raps of a hammer. Woodshops
Scott Phillips visits the
80 Seedling Shelter shop of dulcimer
maestro Warren May.
This simple “cold frame” helps nurture your
spring plantings during winter.
By Jim Stuard
28 Deltagram
Roller supports
83 Caption
the Cartoon
Popular Woodworking (ISSN 0884-8823, USPS 752-250), is published six times a year in Win a Freud
February, April, June, August, October and December by F&W Publications, Inc. Editorial and FJ85 jigsaw
advertising offices are located at 1507 Dana Ave., Cincinnati OH 45207; tel.: 513-531-2222.
Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and artwork should include ample postage on a self-
addressed, stamped envelope (SASE); otherwise they will not be returned. Subscription rates: 88 Out of the
A year’s subscription (6 issues) is $24.96; outside U.S. add $7/year ® Canada Publications Mail Woodwork
Agreement No. 40025316. Canadian return address: 2744 Edna St., Windsor, ON N8Y 1V2 ®
Copyright, 2002 by Popular Woodworking. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and Woodworker meets
additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all address changes to Popular Woodworking, wordworker
P.O. Box 5369, Harlan, IA 51593. Canada GST Reg. # R122594716 ® Produced and printed in by Philip Leon
the U.S.A. Ride-along enclosed in polybag version 52000.
42
www.popwood.com 3
Standing out from the competition…
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Tools pictured:
18" Bandsaw, $1,099*
3 blades FREE
SAVE $49
1
16 /2" Drill Press, $399*
Mortising attachment
and 3 bits FREE
SAVE $176
15" Closed Stand Planer, $1199*
Extra knife set FREE
SAVE $59
1100 CFM Dust Collector, $299*
One tool connection kit FREE
SAVE $49
1236 Wood Lathe with stand, $579*
8-piece chisel set FREE
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16-32 Plus Drum Sander, $799*

Caster set and 2 extra
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Tools not shown:

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Table and legs set FREE
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Mini Lathe, $349*
18-piece pen turning kit FREE
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1000 CFM Air Filtration System, $239*
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OUT ON A LIMB
®
April 2002, Vol. 22, No. 2
Feeling Set Up
www.popularwoodworking.com
Editor & Publisher Steve Shanesy

Art Director Tricia Barlow
Out of the box, many hand planes set you up to fail. Senior Editors David Thiel,
Christopher Schwarz
Assistant Editor Kara Gebhart
I
f you harbor a dark little secret about the frog and made sure the chipbreaker seated
Project Illustrator John W. Hutchinson
disgraceful results you get with a hand fully on the iron. The rest of the work was
Photographer Al Parrish
plane, let me shine the warm light of re- cleaning and polishing. When done, it did-
Contributing Editors
demption on your self-doubt as a woodworker. n’t look new; it looked better than new.
Nick Engler
It’s not your fault. The iron that came with it had seen bet- Bob Flexner
How were you to know that the hand ter days so I replaced it with a nice after- Glen Huey
Scott Phillips
planes most often bought by woodworkers market Hock blade, which added another
Troy Sexton
haven’t completed the manufacturing process $25 to the cost. After sharpening I installed
Technical Advisers:
and require hours of set-up time? My expe- the blade and set it up. Can Bill Austin • Makita USA. Inc.
rience with other new tools is they’re ready I tell you how nice a feel- Scott Box • Powermatic
to go, out of the box. ing it was producing wispy Chris Carlson • S-B Power Tool
Bill Crofutt • Grizzly Industrial
I had no idea what a hand plane required, curls a few minutes later? Dale Zimmerman • Franklin International
and no one told me for years. That’s why I strongly encourage Senior Vice President David Lewis
the first planes I bought were you to read the com- Editorial Director David Fryxell
more useful as paperweights plete article on re-
CIRCULATION
than woodworking tools. habbing an old plane
David Lee, Vice President
Every time I used them This Stanley like I did. If you aren’t Jennifer Shaffer, Group Manager
they’d tear out the Type 11 plane (pur- already producing
wood and sometimes chased for $22.50 on ebay.com) nice shavings, you PRODUCTION
outperforms many modern planes.
ruin the work. No amount can, and it won’t cost Barbara Schmitz, Vice President
of sharpening would improve the result, so you an arm and a leg. Best of all, you’ll be a Heather Griffin, Production Coordinator
back on the shelf it went, my feelings of fail- better woodworker for it. And you can send
ADVERTISING
ure eclipsing my sense of frustration. Hey, in your first wispy shaving and we’ll send you
Advertising Director
I’m a good woodworker, and I’m supposed an official hand plane merit badge for free. Don Schroder
to be able to pull off wispy curls! You can read more about that on page 48. 331 N. Arch St., Allentown, PA 18104
Well, not quite. You see, what came out Tel. 610-821-4425; Fax 610-821-7884
[email protected]
of the box, I learned, was akin to a new piano SawStop Table Saw Safety Poll Results
Classified Advertising Sales
that was all shiny and new but never tuned. In the December issue, I wrote about the Joan Wright, Tel. 800-388-1820
So I learned a lot of work was required to set SawStop table saw safety device, a passive [email protected]
up my plane. So much so, I abandoned my safety mechanism that might save many a Advertising Production Coordinator
Debbie Thomas, Tel. 513-531-2690, ext. 219
original paperweight and bought a vintage woodworker’s finger. [email protected]
“fixer” on the internet. My original plane, a I asked you to cast a vote on our web site
name brand, was of such poor quality that about your willingness to pay $150 to $200 SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES Subscription inquiries,
orders and address changes can be made at
no amount of work would make it right. more for a table saw to gain the type of pro- www.popwood.com (click on Subscriber Services).
Or by mail: Popular Woodworking, P.O. Box 5369,
I also figured that the work I’d invest in tection SawStop potentially offers. Now let Harlan, IA 51593 or call 515-280-1721.
a fixer plane would produce a top-notch tool, me make good on my promise to publish the Include your address with all inquiries.
Allow 6 to 8 weeks for delivery.
save me money, and I’d really learn the fun- results: In favor 1,127; opposed 396. NEWSSTAND DISTRIBUTION Curtis Circulation Co.,
damentals of what makes a good plane and I’m also sharing these results with man- 730 River Rd., New Milford, NJ 07646
how to set it up properly. ufacturers and the inventor with the hope
ATTENTION RETAILERS:
When it arrived, I anxiously inspected that the data may help all involved make To carry Popular Woodworking in your store, call Reader’s Service
at 800-844-7075, or write: Popular Woodworking Magazine
my $22.50 investment. I was pleased to find the right decision in a timely fashion. PW Dealer program, c/o Reader’s Service, 4099 Martel Road,
it was in pretty good shape. Even the origi- Lenoir City, TN 37772
nal rosewood handles were intact. Back issues are available for $6.50 ($8.50 Canada; $10.50 other
foreign). Send check or money order to: Popular Woodworking /
In all, I spent about six hours rehabbing F&W Publications Products, P.O. Box 2031, Harlan IA, 51593; or
call 888-419-0421. Please specify publication, month and year.
my “new” old plane. The hardest part was
the two hours it took to flatten the sole. I Steve Shanesy,
also flattened the machined surfaces of the editor and publisher

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1 Cove (1/2") 6 Round Over
1 Round Over (3/8"), (1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16",
1 Roman Ogee (5/32") 3/8", 1/2")
1 14º Dovetail (1/2"), 5 Straight (1/4", 5/16",
1 Rabbeting (3/8") 3/8", 1/2", 3/4")
1 Panel Pilot 1 Chamfer (45º),
1 45º Chamfer, 1 Slot Cutter (1/4"),
1 Rabbeting (3/8") Includes the 30 Piece Set (left) plus these bits:
1 Flush Trim (1/2"), Straight (7/16", 5/8", 1"), 1 Bevel (30°),
1 Hinge Mortising (1/2"), 1 V-Groove (1/2"),
1 Groove Forming Classical (3/4"), 1 Keyhole (3/8"),
1 Round Nose (1/4") 1 Bevel (25º)
Hinge Mortising (1/2", 5/8", 3/4"), Classical Bit (3/16" r),
1 V-Groove (3/8") 1 Panel Pilot (3/8")
3 Core Box (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"), 1 Dish Cutter (1"),
1 allen wrench and 3 Round Nose (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"),
1 bearing to convert Round
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LETTERS
MAKING A PERFECT
CUT IS AS EASY AS
Readers Weigh in
LINING YOUR MARK UP
TO THE LASER TRAC!
on SawStop Device
SawStop May Save Fingers, But it Woodworking’s interest in promoting the
Shouldn’t be Forced on Us adoption of new technology that promises
I recently answered “no!” to the SawStop to make woodworking safer. We hope the
Craftsman Exclusive Laser Trac poll on your magazine’s web site. I wish I had survey will help tool manufacturers under-
The guesswork is over. So is wasteful,
inaccurate cutting. Now you’ll know read Steve Shanesy’s “Out On a Limb” col- stand the value of safety to woodworkers.
exactly where the blade will intersect
with your workpiece. Perfect for all umn about the issue first. I would have added Manufacturers say they have not em-
types of straight and bevel cutting. where Stephen Gass could stick his SawStop braced SawStop because of the possible loss
device. The SawStop is a great idea, and it of sales when costs of retooling and our roy-
may very well save a few fingers, but just as alty are added to the price of a saw. However,
I don’t believe in helmet laws, I don’t want the results of Popular Woodworking’s survey
the SawStop forced on me either. And, now confirmed our belief that a large majority of
that I see Gass is not only trying to get rich woodworkers are willing to pay a reasonable
on the idea, but is trying to use the govern- premium for SawStop. We believe the $150
5,000 rpm no-load speed
ment to help him, I don’t want it. premium used in the survey is more than suf-
for fast and smooth cutting On the practical side, I’m a maintenance ficient to cover the costs to implement
15-amp universal motor with
externally accessible brushes has electrician, and I’ve seen many pieces of elec- SawStop. Nonetheless, we have tried to min-
power needed for all types of cuts . trical/electronics equipment fail, for virtu- imize the introduction cost by offering man-
ally no reason. Some of the equipment has ufacturers a royalty rate that starts very low
not been in as harsh an environment as my (approximately $12 on a contractor-type
table saw. I would hate to be cutting a $65 saw). The rate increases (to about $30 on a
cherry board (or worse) when the thing failed. contractor saw) only if most consumers buy
I could re-cut the board and actually waste saws with SawStop instead of other saws in
very little, but why would I want that at all? the marketplace. As to the cost of retooling,
Sliding fence with built-in bevel
There is one more reason why I don’t want manufacturers face that issue whenever they
indicators for fast, accurate setups it. As electrical/electronics components age, introduce a new product, and it is not unique
With our new easy-to-read controls,
even the tricky cuts can be set up their electrical characteristics change. This to SawStop.
and made with confidence.
is why there are adjustments, such as nulls Manufacturers also say they are concerned
and offsets on various electronic compo- with product liability issues. We have pro-
nents. Heat, humidity, vibration and many vided prototype saws for testing to almost
other things have an adverse effect on these every major saw manufacturer in the world,
electrical properties as well. Will the SawStop and to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety
have an offset or a null adjustment? It may
work great on a hot dog right now, but a year WRITE TO US
Extensions provide capacity from now will my saw stop when it hits a
for projects both large and small Popular Woodworking welcomes letters from
small knot or a change in moisture con-
From ornate crown molding to a readers with questions or comments about the
huge backyard deck, make precise tent in the wood? magazine or woodworking in general. We try to
adjustments with ease & confidence.
Steve Snodgrass respond to all correspondence. Published letters
via the internet may be edited for length or style. All letters
Available at Sears, Sears Hardware, become the property of Popular Woodworking.
and the Craftsman Catalog How to send your letter:
at 800-437-9686 SawStop Inventor Explains
• E-mail: [email protected]
the Risks Ahead for His Company • Fax: 513-531-0919
We were gratified with the strong positive • Mail carrier:
response to SawStop from woodworkers Letters • Popular Woodworking
reflected in the results of the Popular 1507 Dana Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45207
Woodworking survey. We appreciate Popular

SEE THE LIGHT,
THEN CUT IT RIGHT!
OUR NEW CRAFTSMAN 10-IN.

MITER SAW WITH LASER TRAC™
ELIMINATES THE GUESSWORK,
MAKING SET-UPS QUICK & EASY!
Let the light of a laser help guide your cuts with great precision.
15 amps of heavy-duty power provides the muscle to handle most
any project. State of the art features include a sliding fence
designed with a built-in bevel indicator. A dual-view bevel scale that provides
a clear view from both sides of the cut. Soft Touch Power D-handle
comfortably supports your hand while you cut. Plus, we’ve combined value
with Craftsman innovation by including a stop block, clamp, dust bag,
Price may vary in Alaska, Hawaii & Puerto Rico. Shipping,
handling & sales tax charges on phone orders will be carbide-tipped blade and extensions. See the light for yourself by visiting
quoted over phone. © 2002 Sears, Roebuck and Co.
your nearest Sears or Sears Hardware store. #24315 199.99
LETTERS
Commission, the German safety agency BIA,

and the French safety agency INRS.
Not one of those manufacturers or safe-
ty agencies has identified any issue that ques-
tions the viability of the SawStop technol-
ogy. To the contrary, as far as we are aware,
all of those entities have concluded that the
SawStop technology will make saws safer.
Unfortunately, most manufacturers have
not yet decided to move forward with SawStop.
In the meantime, because we do not know
when or whether manufacturers will move
forward, we have decided to build and mar-
ket our own table saw.
We hope to have it at IWF in Atlanta
this August, and to take orders at that show.
At present, that seems like the only sure way
to get SawStop out there. In any case, even
if we never make a penny at the end of the
day, if SawStop or something like it is adopt-
ed on saws and people are no longer being
maimed on a regular basis, we will be proud
to have started the ball rolling that leads
to such a good result for woodworkers.
Stephen F. Gass, president
SawStop LLC
Wilsonville, Oregon
Why SawStop is a Bargain at $150

Sure, $150 is a lot to add to the price of a
contractor saw, and I like to think I’ll never
actually need this device — but I’m sure any-
one who has lost a finger or hand to a table
saw would gladly pay $150 to have it back.
To me, it’s like an air bag or a fire extinguisher
— something that I’ll probably never need,
but that might be extremely important
one day. PW
Andy Stephens
via the internet
CORRECTIONS
& CLARIFICATIONS
In our article on rehandling a chisel in the February
2002 issue, we stated that some chisels have been
formed by casting. Actually, no chisels (to our
knowledge) are cast; those shown as cast in the
photographs are likely drop-forged.
In our article on the Pennsylvania Spice Box
(December 2001 issue) the diagram of the base
scroll pattern on page 55 should read: “One
square= 1⁄ 2"”

Q&A
Featherboards for
Safety and Accuracy
Are Featherboards Really Necessary? There are many ways to make them and they
And How Do You Make Them? can be of various shapes and sizes depending on
I’m somewhat new to woodworking and want their application.
to know more about featherboards. I’ve seen — Steve Shanesy, editor and publisher
them in photos and mentioned in articles as
safety devices. Should I use them in my shop? Why are Radial Arm Saws
Fred Tipplewait so Scarce These Days?
Dallas, Texas I have used a radial arm saw in the past and
liked it. I now want to buy a saw of my own
I consider featherboards both a safety device and and wonder why there are no radial arm saws
an excellent aid when making special cuts on a advertised in your magazine. Is there some-
table saw or shaping stock in a router table or thing about a radial arm saw that is inferior
on a shaper. to a table saw or other type of saw? I like the
You probably realize that the “spring” from fact that I don’t have to move the wood with
the “fingers” on the end of the featherboard a radial arm saw; I just move the saw itself.
are a great way to hold stock firmly in place, es- With a table saw or any other saw, you have
pecially near the blade or bit. That’s the safety to move the wood.
advantage. They also supply continuous pres- Joe Casey
sure on the stock, holding it to a fence. This will via the internet
produce a more consistent cut or profile on the
wood, even compensating for some amount of In many of today’s woodshops, the sliding com-
warp in narrow stock. Sometimes two feather- pound miter saw is replacing the radial arm. The
boards are used: one to hold stock to the fence sliding compound miter saw is often more ac-
and one from above to hold it down on the table. curate and less expensive. In fact, there are only
A word of caution when using one on a table a few manufacturers making radial arm saws
saw. Set it up so that the pressure is just in front these days, and their sales in that category are
of where the blade is cutting the stock. Don’t allow nothing to brag about.
the featherboard to apply pressure behind the cut As for comparing the radial arm saw to a table
where the kerf will close up, binding on the blade saw, it’s our opinion that there is no real com-
and leading to a dangerous kickback. parison. The capacity, accuracy and versatility

T H E S TA N D A R D I N S A N D E R S
Clayton Spindle Sanders are built in the
USA with precision balanced spindles,
provided by a table saw far outshines those in a oversized bearings, and a premium
radial arm saw. Your comments on having to move Baldor Induction Motor.
• Benchtop and • Large table surface
the material rather than the saw apply only to full-sized, professional • Built-in dust port
crosscutting with the radial arm saw. To rip on models • Quick-change drums
a radial arm saw (a process we do not recommend
Clayton tackles the toughest sanding jobs...smoothly.
due to a number of safety concerns) you still need
FREE COLOR CATALOG, call: 1-800-971-5050
to move the material. A table saw provides a larg-
er area of support and an adjustable fence to guide
the work. If you haven’t used a table saw, then
CLAYTON MACHINE CORP. ROYAL OAK , MI 48068-0520
you may be missing an opportunity to learn first
hand the benefits of the machine.
— David Thiel, senior editor
How Long Should I Let My Lumber

Sit Before Starting a Project?
How long do you need to store lumber pur-
chased rough-cut from a lumber yard before
starting to work? I purchased some 6/4 poplar
to make raised-panel closet doors, and I don’t
want the wood warping after it’s worked.
Tom Wehmeier
Cincinnati, Ohio
The answer depends on how damp the wood was

when you bought it. If it’s been kiln-dried and
stored inside, wait two or three weeks before jump-
ing into the project. If it’s air-dried or been stored You’re beyond simple yellow glues and you don’t want
outside, wait a little longer or — better yet — get a different bottle of glue for every project. You want
a moisture meter and check the moisture content. Gorilla Glue.® Bonds wood, stone, metal, ceramic, plas-
A lot of people ask us about their meters, too. tics and more. Incredibly strong and 100% water-
They wonder what moisture content is right be- proof. Don’t monkey around with other glues.
fore they start cutting up their wood pile. There
are charts and maps that can guide you, but For retailer near you, call
here’s what we recommend. If you’re going to 800-966-3458 or visit
build something out of maple, use your meter to
www.gorillaglue.com.
check the moisture content of a piece of furni-
ture that is maple and has been in your house
for a while. If the numbers are close, you’re
ready to go.
— Christopher Schwarz, senior editor
WRITE TO US
Every day we get questions from readers on all
subjects about their woodworking. Some are
letters; many are e-mail messages. We are more
than happy to share our woodworking experience
with you by answering your questions or adding
some clarity to whatever aspect of your craft you
are unsure about. In addition to the hundreds we
answer privately every month, we want to share
the best questions here with readers.
Send your questions via e-mail to
[email protected]. Or send us a note by
mail to: Popular Woodworking, Q&A, 1507 Dana
for retailers near you:
Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45207.
www.gorillaglue.com
1-800-966-3458
www.popwood.com 13
Q&A
Solid Wood or Plywood

for Fireplace Surround?
I’m building an oak fireplace surround with
a mantel. The mantel will have a mirror, man-
tel and columns mounted on a 42" x 78" oak
backing. The oak backing will be wrapped
with a 3" oak board on three sides. My ques-
tion is, should I make the oak backing out of
one piece of 3⁄ 4" oak plywood, or should I use
biscuits to join multiple pieces of solid oak
together into one big panel?
Michael Gallo
Ringoes, New Jersey
Don’t use solid lumber. A piece the size you need

is prone to wide swings of expansion and con-
traction, especially in a hot/cold, wet/dry cli-
mate like yours. Use plywood. It’s easier and
the veneers will be of a consistent color, making
the overall appearance better. You can even use
1⁄
2" ply if you like.
— Steve Shanesy, editor and publisher
I Need a Kid-Proof, Light-Proof Finish

I am going to stain the oak trim and seat for
Circle #120 on information card. Circle #118 on information card.
a new bay window. I would like to use a finish
that provides protection from kids and pets. I
originally thought about using polyurethane
HIGH PERFORMANCE MOBILIZATION (this is what I typically use for most projects)
but I think it may be to shiny and difficult to
apply around the window. If I use polyurethane
on just the seat it may not match the finish on
the rest of the window.
Do you think leaving the wood stained
and nothing else would be OK? Or would
the sun break down the finish? Would tung
oil be a good alternative?
Mark
Cincinnati, Ohio
Stick with polyurethane for the seat and trim,

and don’t worry about the gloss. Like most
HTC Mobile Bases give you convenient finishes, polyurethane is sold in gloss, semi-gloss
shop clean-up, make moving, using and storage and satin sheens. Look at a sample in the store
and choose between the semi-gloss and satin.
a breeze — and open-up valuable shop space
Also, remember that oil-based polyurethane will
for more equipment. Making it mobile just yellow from sunlight. Water-based polyurethane
makes sense! What are you waiting for? does not yellow. By the way, you must always
use a top coat over a stain, or else the stain
will eventually wear off. Stains provide no pro-
tection for the wood. So-called tung oil finish-
es won’t offer the protection you are looking for
when kids and pets are concerned. PW
For your nearest dealer and FREE catalog,
— Steve Shanesy, editor and publisher
call toll-free 1-800-624-2027
© HTC Products, Inc. 2001
14 POPULAR WOODWORKING April 2002 14 POPULAR WOODWORKING April 2002
Illustrations by John McCormick
TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Sturdy, Fold-Away Work Horses

THE WINNER:
Below you’ll see drawings of some useful sawhorses for wood- which suited my needs more adequately. Certainly they can be
workers like me, who have limited room to work, and even less configured to suit other, more particular, requirements. I don’t
room dedicated to storage. I cannot claim design rights for these know what the weight capacity of these sawhorses is, but I
because I got the general configuration from a workman who have used them for several years now for all sorts of purposes. In
came to my house several years ago to install a water purifier. His fact, two adults have stood atop the horses without incident with
were made using 1x4 material, over which he placed a piece of 2 x 8s laid over them to make a platform.
plywood to make a temporary work table. They seemed strong Ralph Scheeler
even in that thin material, so I decided to build mine using 2x4s, New Orleans, Louisiana
Make Your Own Outdoor Wood Putty

Granted, most of the time when you’re doing woodworking for we started using Durhams Rock Hard Putty, but rather than mix-
use out of doors you aren’t too worried about puttying nail holes. ing it with just water, we also added Titebond II glue. The glue’s
There are, however, situations where you’re building something weather-resistant formula mixes into a non-shrinking, water-
that you want to look nice, and you end up with an unsightly gap. resistant putty that really works.
Standard wood putties aren’t designed for outdoor exposure, so The Popular Woodworking staff
CASH AND PRIZES FOR YOUR TRICKS AND TIPS!

Each issue we publish woodworking tips and tricks from our readers that we think are useful. We want to encourage you to
share with your fellow woodworkers, as well as reward the most useful and original concepts. Delta has agreed to lend us a
hand with that, and the author of this issue’s winning trick receives the new 22-580 two-speed portable thickness finisher
(shown at left). The other trick’s authors receive $75.
To submit your tip or trick, e-mail it along with a daytime phone number to
[email protected] or mail it to: Tricks of the Trade • Popular Woodworking
1507 Dana Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45207.

Double-duty Dovetail Jig
I was intrigued with Nick Engler’s Ingenious Jigs
article from December 2001 that showed you
how to make a jig for cutting perfect dados in
the sides of case pieces. After my last project,
where the routing was the most repetitious and
boring part of the piece, I thought there should
be an easier way. I wasn’t happy with the dados
made using my router table, radial arm saw or
table saw. I don’t like to take the time to make a jig,
even though some have been proven helpful and many
times reusable. In looking around my shop, my eye alight-
ed on my commercial dovetail jig. It had all the properties of
the jig from the article: a good straight sturdy hold-down clamp
with a wide throat to accommodate wide boards or even multiple boards
needing the same dado. The clamp that holds boards in the jig makes a perfect
fence for my router. When running multiple boards, I did take the precaution of clamping
the pieces together with another clamp to prevent them from slipping in the jig, as many
times slight variances of wood thickness will allow this to happen.
Roberta Keefe
Lexington, Kentucky
Make a Tenon Square From Scrap

A router mounted in a table with a straight bit can be used to cut nice
tenons. But usually these tenons are on the end of a narrow board and re-
quire a miter gauge to hold the board. Unfortunately my router table
lacks a miter slot. However, a square block of wood serves just as well.
Cut a square block of wood approximately 12" x 12". Butt it against the
router fence and clamp the board to be tenoned to the square board,
keeping the tenon end also flush against the router fence as shown in
the drawing. This has the added advantage of providing a backer
board, which also reduces tearout.
Bill Law
Cincinnati, Ohio
Custom Scrap Wood Clamps

Recently, I had to glue up many slender pieces of wood to make
tapers for a pencil post bed that had revealed layers. Because the
posts were almost 8' long, I needed a wealth of clamps that I didn’t
have. I came up with this design in order to save money, and I have
since used these clamps on many other projects with great success
and only a little cost. PW
Yoko Sorensen
Raleigh, North Carolina
www.popwood.com 17
TOOL TEST
HTC Improves
the Venerable
Biesemeyer
W e’re not saying you should replace
your Biesemeyer rip fence with HTC’s
new fence; but you could, and it would be
front rail on your saw.
The fence also is avail-
able with the rails for a
an improvement. bit more. Prices range
The HTC Multi-Fence System has every- from $239.95 for the
thing you expect from a quality T-square style HTC-800 contractor
fence: repeatable accuracy, stability and ease style fence ($349.95 with
of use and adjustment. In addition, this fence 30" rails included) to
offers features not found on the Biesemeyer: $269.95 for the HTC- SPECIFICATIONS
micro-adjustability, easily removed/replaced 900 commercial fence
fence faces and a simple way to square the ($379.95 with 30" rails). HTC 800 & 900
Multi-Fence Systems
fence to the saw’s table. Without a doubt, the
Street price: $240 and $270
The fence micro-adjusts by first engag- HTC fence improves on Faces: 800: 5⁄ 8" x 17⁄ 8" x 37 1⁄ 4"
ing a quick-lock lever, which clamps the Biesemeyer’s highly suc- 900: 3⁄ 4" x 23⁄ 8" x 411⁄ 4"
fence’s support bar against the rail. Then you cessful design. While the Fence tube: 800: 11⁄ 2" x 3" x 36"
turn the micro-adjust knob to fine-tune the upgrades are great, we 900: 2" x 3" x 391⁄ 4"
T-Clamp bar: 800: 14"
fence setting left or right. One revolution of don’t recommend that
900: 16"
the micro-adjust knob moves the fence 1⁄ 16", you trash an existing T- Performance: ●●●●●
but the adjustment knob is sensitive enough style system to get them. Value: ●●●●❍
that one-eighth of a rotation of that knob But if you’re shopping for HTC Products: 800-624-2027 or
yields a 1⁄ 128" adjustment. a new fence system, this is www.amazon.com
The fence faces are solid UHMW (ultra a great option.
high molecular weight) material, commonly The model we tested included a mag- $50 more than a Biesemeyer, and $150 more
called “slick stuff,” which provides a sta- nifying lens indicator that we had problems than the Shop Fox Classic fence.
ble and smooth surface. Biesemeyer own- reading. HTC officials say the product in You also will have an opportunity to buy
ers who have ever replaced their fence faces stores would not include the magnifying lens this fence system included on a new saw.
will appreciate how easy this is to do on shown in the photo above. Check before HTC has contracted with JET Equipment
the HTC. Rap the far end of the face and you buy; it’s quite difficult to read. to provide the upgraded fences on their saws.
it pops off the studs attached to the fence The extra precision and versatility of this For more information, circle #141 on Reader Service Card.
beam. Not only does this make removing fence system does cost a little more. About
or replacing the faces a snap, it allows
you to easily attach special jigs to your fence HOW WE RATE TOOLS
beam by adding the separately available
clips to your shop jigs. At Popular Woodworking we test new tools and products with an honest, real-world workout. We check for
ease of assembly and determine how clear and complete the manuals are. Then we use the tool in our shop
A third improvement is the addition of to build projects that appear in the magazine. Each issue, our editorial staff shares its results and experi-
easily accessible screws that allow you to set ences with the tools.
the fence face at 90° to your saw’s table. On We use a one-to-five scale, with “five” in performance indicating that we consider it to be the leader in
the Biesemeyer, this operation is performed its category. For value, “five” means the tool is a great deal for the money, while “one” means we consider it
by shimming with masking tape. pricey. Though, a unique low-value tool may be worth the price.
If our tool reviews don’t answer all your questions, e-mail me at [email protected] or call me at
The HTC fences fit most contractor and 513-531-2690, ext. 255. You can also visit our website www.popwood.com to check out previous tool
cabinet saws. If you already have a T-square reviews and sign up for our free e-mail newsletter (focusing on tools) that’s sent out every other week.
style fence, such a Biesemeyer, you can pur- —David Thiel, senior editor
chase the fence alone and use the existing

TOOL SCOOP
Veritas 51⁄ 4W Plane
Shows Refinements
Bosch’s Plunge Router Designed for Router Table Use When I reviewed the Veritas 41⁄ 2 smoothing
plane in the August 2001 issue, I complained
For years, router tables — combined with We found that disengaging the spring was that it is a bit fussy to set
plunge routers — have offered woodwork- a complicated task at first, but with practice up. Veritas has
ers many of the features of a shaper at a frac- it becomes second nature. Even with the just released its
second bench
tion of the cost. One nagging problem, how- spring disengaged, the height adjustment plane, a 51⁄ 4W
ever, has been the plunging spring that al- wasn’t effortless, however. There’s a big motor (sometimes
ways pushes the router to the “up” position. on this router, so gravity is working against called a junior
jack plane)
The Bosch 1619EVS router was designed you. But the effort is nothing like fighting and it seems
to solve this nuisance by making it possi- against the spring. Once locked in place the bugs have
ble to disengage the spring and the plunge under the table, the fine adjustment knob been worked
out of this new
lock, allowing the motor to hang free for eas- works easily to adjust the cutter height with line of bench planes. The cap iron doesn’t bend
ier adjustment. Combined with a depth ad- a tight precision with a quarter-turn equat- the blade when fully screwed down, and the
justment rod that locks into the turret depth ing to 1⁄ 64" change. throat is much less likely to clog with shavings
because the plane body has been altered to
stop (linking the base to the depth rod) the While not a problem when being used allow more room for chips. However, I still find
cutting height can be adjusted precisely and out of the router table, we found the lock- that the frog locking screw, which secures the
almost effortlessly in a router table. on button on the right handle awkward when frog to the plane body, requires a delicate touch
to get just right. This 51⁄ 4W required less fettling
But this router isn’t a one-trick pony. The inverted under a table. A secondary switch than the 41⁄ 2 and is an excellent size for trim-
1619EVS also offers soft start, Bosch’s Constant mounted on the motor (as with some other ming inset doors and drawers and for smoothing
Response circuitry to maintain speed and larger routers) would be beneficial. edges of shorter pieces. It’s a good value at
$175. Buy it from Lee Valley Tools, 800-871-
power under load, a spindle lock for one- Conveniently, the Bosch router table we 8158. Also, for the record, a couple readers have
wrench bit changes, variable speed and plen- were using (model RA1200) has an inde- pointed out that the blade adjuster that Lee
ty of raw routing power. pendent switch mounted on the table to plug Valley uses is actually not a Norris-style adjuster.
It was patented by Leonard Bailey in 1878 and
We put this router through its paces and the router into, solving this awkwardness. appeared on his #12 Victor pocket block plane.
found that it definitely has the power to tack- Many woodworkers have been modify- — Christopher Schwarz
le any job. The feedback circuitry maintains ing their own plunge routers by removing
a constant rpm to allow larger cutters to keep the return spring. We’re glad to see a man-
working, even at low speeds. ufacturer recognize an idea that’s overdue Update On Rockler’s
and improve on it. While the Miter Gauge
1619EVS is priced at the high
Rockler’s accurate and well-priced miter gauge has
end of the large plunge router been redesigned. Previously, the gauge used
category, we feel the features “poker chip”-like ridges to align the head every
and the performance of this tool 21⁄ 2°. Rockler has redesigned the head to now offer
justify the price, and make this 11⁄ 2° accuracy — a measurable improvement.
Rockler also redesigned the fence to include a tall
a valuable tool for woodwork-
milled-flat aluminum face with an adjustable (and
ers who spend a lot of time at replaceable) MDF front piece.The adjustable-width
their router table. miter bar is now 2" longer to increase stability
For more information, circle #142 when cutting larger pieces.The miter gauge and
on Reader Service Card. fence (with adjustable stop) is priced at $129,
which is $30 to $40 less than much of the competi-
tion. Incra offers a more affordable gauge, but it
doesn’t offer the wide range of repeatable settings,
the high fence or quality stop.Take a look at the
changes by contacting Rockler at 800-279-4441 or
SPECIFICATIONS www.rockler.com.
Bosch 1619EVS
Street price: $320
HP/amps: 31⁄ 4 hp/15 amp
RPM: 8,000 - 21,000
Plunge depth: 29⁄ 16"
Collets: 1⁄ 4" and 1⁄ 2"
Weight: 13.2 pounds
Performance: ●●●●❍
Value: ●●●❍❍
Bosch: 877-267-2499
or www.boschtools.com
www.popwood.com 19
TOOL TEST
Milwaukee’s BodyGrip Router Improves

Handling and Under-Table Adjustment
While a number of tool companies have been de- drilled in your router table’s
signing router accessories to make router adjust- insert and a hole in the base
ment while in a router table more simple, Milwaukee of the router. It’s quite sim-
decided simply to build an adjusting mecha- ple and ingenious. Our only
nism into its newest tool. gripe is the wrench (shown
The model 5615-21 fixed-base router is “sleeved,” in the photo) isn’t included.
meaning the motor slides straight into the base, Milwaukee didn’t forget
rather than screwing in. This has several advan- about the rest of the tool ei-
tages. First, it keeps the switch oriented in one lo- ther. An over-molded grip
cation so you don’t end up fumbling under the and strap (the “body grip”)
router table. Second, it makes the router more ac- lets you safely use the router
curate. Routers that twist in their bases don’t all one-handed for simple cuts
have their collets in the exact center of the without fear of dropping. The
tool. So when the motor is twisted to adjust the router is available alone, or SPECIFICATIONS
bit height when in a router table, the bit can move with a clamshell case that has a pull-out base that
in or out in relation to the router table’s fence. It allows the router (with a bit in the collet) to sit Milwaukee 5615-21
also makes adjusting the cutter height faster. Once upright on your bench. The 11-amp motor oper- BodyGrip Router
at the proper depth, the motor is locked in place ates at 24,000 rpm, and the tool includes both 1⁄ 4" Street price: $155 or $170
HP/amps: 1.75 hp/11 amps
by simply snapping a convenient lever into place. and 1⁄ 2" collets. Priced about $155 for the router RPM: 24,000
The height adjustment is accomplished out of alone, or $170 with the case, this is a nicely ap- Collets included: 1⁄ 4" and 1⁄ 2"
a table by turning the micro-adjustment dial, cal- pointed, well-crafted router that is comfortable Weight: 8.2 lbs.
ibrated to within 1⁄ 64". When mounted in a table, to use out of a router table, and easy to adjust when Performance: ●●●●●
you adjust the bit height from above the table by in a table. In the next year or so, we hope Milwaukee Value: ●●●●●
Milwaukee: 877-729-3878
turning a 3⁄8" socket wrench. The wrench attaches also will manufacture a variable-speed model, too. or www.mil-electric-tool.com
to the router’s adjustment rod through a hole For more information, circle #143 on Reader Service Card.
Stanley’s Folding Workbench is Three Tools In One

I’ve never been a person easily swayed by gimmicky tools — OK, There’s even a reasonable-sized shelf mounted underneath to help
that’s an exaggeration — but this one seemed pretty clever from the keep the work surface clear. If you’re using a router table and want
start. Folding sawhorses have been on the market for a number of to clamp it in place, open the storage compartment in the work sur-
years, but the ZAG Folding Workbench from Stanley has taken it face and take out the two surface-mounted vises and lock it in place.
a step further by adding a serviceable vise (that stores in the unit) The work surface also includes a drill holder and recessed storage
and a work surface that will hold up to 500 pounds. areas to keep those small items from being knocked onto the floor.
With the work surface unattached, you have a sawhorse with Weighing in at 14 pounds, the workbench folds to a 41⁄ 2"-thick
good weight capacity and good stability for use in any number of unit for storage. Priced at just $40, this handy accessory makes a ver-
applications. Simply snap the 20" x 27" work surface to the horse satile and useful addition to any home workshop. PW
and you have a working platform for any number of benchtop tools. For more information, circle #144 on Reader Service Card.
SPECIFICATIONS
Stanley ZAG
Folding Workbench
Street price: $40
Top size: 20" x 27"
Weight cap.: 500 pounds
Weight:14 pounds
Performance: ●●●●❍
Value: ●●●●❍
Stanley: 800-STANLEY
or www.stanleyworks.com

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INGENIOUS JIGS
Multipurpose
Saw Sled
It takes just nine pieces of wood to turn
your table saw into a precision
crosscutting and tenoning machine.
F or many years I had the pleasure of work-

ing with Jim McCann, a craftsman I
admired as much for his ingenuity as his con-
cial piece of hardware
you need to make this
jig — a miter bar to fit
siderable skill. Jim and I designed projects the slot in your par-
of all sorts, but we had a special fondness for ticular table saw. (Most
jigs. It was a challenge for us to create a shop- are 3⁄ 8" deep and 3⁄ 4"
made tool as simple and as functional as pos- wide.) Attach the bar
sible. This sliding table or saw sled was one to the base with ma-
of our best efforts. There are really four jigs chine screws, coun-
here — the sliding table itself, a micro-ad- tersinking the heads
justable fence stop for duplication and ac- so they’re slightly below
curacy, an auxiliary table to prevent bind- the surface of the base.
ing and kickbacks, and a tenoning jig to hold Position the bar so that
stock vertically — just nine wooden parts to when you saw with the
do dozens of sawing chores. jig for the first time,
the blade shaves about
1⁄
Sliding Table 16" from the edge of
The table is a large base with a long fence the sled’s base.
that slides across the saw table, past the saw Make the fence from a single piece of back together, the grooves will form T-slots.
blade. A miter bar attached to the underside straight-grained hardwood. Tip: To make a Use the long T-slot on the front of the fence
of the base guides the jig. This is the one spe- long, slender part such as the fence as stable to mount the fence stop and the tenoning
as possible, rip it in half parallel to jig. The shorter slot on the back stores the
the annual rings. Rotate one part stop and keeps it handy.
180° and glue the parts back to- Mount the fence to the base with 3⁄ 8" hex
gether so the annual rings cup in bolts. Drill counterbores for the heads of the
the opposite directions. This will bolts so they don’t protrude from the un-
help the fence stay straight and true. derside of the base. The bolt nearest the saw
Rip the board for your fence down blade serves as a pivot, should you need to
the middle, joint both halves straight, angle the fence to cut miters. The other bolt
and cut two grooves in each half — secures the fence and provides a small amount
a 3⁄4"-wide, 3⁄8"-deep groove followed of angle adjustment. The shank hole for this
by a 1⁄ 4"-wide groove all the way bolt is 7⁄ 16" in diameter. That extra clearance
through the stock, as shown in the lets you move the fence back and forth a few
Elevation Section A drawing and degrees to adjust it square to the blade. Once
the shaded area of the Fence Detail the fence is adjusted, draw a pencil line to
drawing on a following page. The mark the position of the fence on the base.
grooves in the front half should run If you ever need to change the angle of the
almost the complete length of the fence, the pencil line will make it easy to
In addition to everything else it does, the sliding table also makes
an excellent base for other sawing jigs that you might need. Here fence, while the grooves in the back square it up again.
I’ve attached a special fence and clamp-downs to make scarf joint half need to be only a few inches Since 95 percent of your saw cuts are made
in the spars for a reproduction of a Wright Brothers’ flyer. long. When you glue the fence halves at 90°, and another 41⁄ 2 percent are made at

38"
3/4" 171/2"
A A
11/4"
4" long x
3/4" wide
3/8" diameter
1/4" x 2" carriage grooves
thru fence
3/8" diameter
bolt, flat washer,
7/16" diameter and wing nut #10-32 flat head 34" long x
thru with 3/4" wide
thru with machine screw,
7/8" x 5/16" 7/8" x 5/16" grooves
knob, and jamb nut
counterbore counterbore
in base in base
24" 3/8" x 2 3/4" hex bolt,

wing nut and 5/16" flat washer
Fence
halves Rule
Distance from
slot to saw blade
plus 1/16" Stop
Base
20"
Top View
Photos by Al Parrish.
3/8" x 21/4" hex

bolt, stop nut and 1/2" thick
5/16" flat washer MDF
45°, I suggest you drill holes and counter-

bores so you can secure the fence at 90° and
45°, and leave it at that. For those odd an-
gles, you can either drill holes as you need
them or resort to your miter gauge.
To help measure as I cut, I added a scale
to the front of the fence, inset in a 1⁄ 32"-deep
rabbet. Note that the scale is upside down.
It’s easier to read when I lean over the fence.
Auxiliary Table
One of the few drawbacks to a sliding table
is that the base raises the work off the saw
table, leaving it unsupported on the far side
of the saw blade. Because of this, the wood
will drop down as you finish the cut, bind-
ing the blade. This in turn may cause the
cut-off part to kick back. Tip: To adjust the fence so it holds the wood precisely
The auxiliary table (shown in the open- square to the saw blade, take a scrap piece and rip it
so the edges are parallel. Mark one face, saw through
ing photo on the facing page) prevents this.
the mark (left), and flip one part over. Bring the cut
It’s a second base the same size as the first, ends together, holding the edges against the fence
but without a fence or a miter bar. Instead, (right). If the seam between the parts gaps at the top
there is a cleat at the front edge that hooks or bottom, the fence is not square to the blade.
www.popwood.com 23
INGENIOUS JIGS
11/2" 1/4" diameter x
3/8" 1/2" 1/2" 11/8" long 3/4"

dowel
1/4" wide slot thru 5/32"
3/8"
5/8"
1/4" diameter
3/4" hole with
2" 3/8" diameter
2"
7/8" 5/8" countersink
15/16"
3/4"wide x 3/8" deep 3/8"
groove 3/4"
11/2" 1/4" diameter thru 1/4"

Elevation Section A End view Front View Side View
Fence Detail Stop Detail
over your saw table and prevents the auxil- a little file work. The head of a carriage bolt small threads no problem.) Countersink the
iary table from sliding forward as you work. is stamped so there is a curved transition or end of the hole nearest the blade (when the
Depending on the design of your saw, cut the fillet between the head and the square sec- stop is mounted to the fence). Turn a 10-32
cleat so that you can secure it with a clamp tion at the beginning of the shaft. This fil- flathead machine screw into the threaded
either to the fence rail or the front of the saw. let wedges itself in the slot and makes it dif- hole and tighten a jamb nut and a knurled
ficult to move the stop. To fix this, file the nut on the other end so you can turn the
Fence Stop carriage bolt to remove the fillet, creating a screw easily. One turn of the screw will ad-
The stop is a block of wood you can mount square shoulder between the head and the vance the head precisely 1 ⁄ 32 ", allowing
anywhere along the length of the fence and shank of the carriage bolt. you to make extremely accurate adjustments.
can make duplicate cuts without having to I also added a micro-adjustment to my
measure for each cut. A 1⁄ 4" carriage bolt se- stop. Drill a 5⁄ 32"-diameter hole through the Tenoning Jig
cures the stop in the T-slot, and a 1⁄ 4"-diam- stop that’s parallel to the bottom edge and The tenoning jig is two pieces of wood joined
eter dowel prevents it from pivoting. To get thread this hole with a 10-32 tap. (A dense at 90°. This makes a cradle to hold boards
the stop to slide smoothly you’ll need to do hardwood such as hard maple will take these vertically to the saw blade — just place the
board in the corner formed by the two parts
and secure it with a clamp. Don’t waste good
wood on this jig; make it from scraps. The
tenoning jig is a “disposable” fixture — it
eventually gets eaten up by the saw blade,
and you’ll have to make a new one. Mount
the jig to the fence with two 1⁄ 4" carriage
bolts, much the same way you mounted the
fence stop. PW
1/4"
111/2" diameter
holes thru
7"
4"
4" 1"
11/2" 13/4"
Use the tenoning jig and the fence stop in combination. Slide the tenoning jig into the T-slot, then slide the fence stop
right behind it.Turn the micro-adjustment screw until it’s snug against the end of the jig. Clamp a piece of wood in Tenoning Jig
the cradle, make a test cut, and check the results. If you need to adjust the position of the jig, loosen the carriage
bolts and rotate the adjustment screw. In this manner you can make very fine adjustments, getting the cut just right.

ENDURANCE TEST
Grizzly G1023S Cabinet Saw

Cabinet saw performance
at a contractor saw price.
W hen we first heard about the G1023S

in late 1999, we figured it was just
another cabinet saw. But when we saw that
the price was about $800, we couldn’t get to
the phone fast enough to request one for test- inserts. This isn’t
ing. The saw showed up in March 2000, and an indictment of this
we were skeptical and prepared to be disap- machine; most saws
pointed. After all, how much saw can you buy come equipped with
for $800? A contractor saw, sure. But a de- less-than-perfect in-
cent cabinet saw? Boy, were we wrong. serts. The same goes
After setting up the saw (which was re- for the saw’s guard.
markably easy), we checked the adjustments. Though meeting safe-
The blade was a couple thousandths out of ty requirements, the
parallel with the miter slot, but that was eas- guard doesn’t make it
ily remedied by loosening four bolts and tap- easy to work safely.
ping the top until everything lined up. Also, Again, almost every
the fence wasn’t 90° to the table. We resaw on the market has
moved the plastic faces on the fence and this issue, not just Griz-
found someone had shimmed the plastic with zly’s machine.
tape. We removed the tape, and the fence We did notice one thing
was perfectly square to the table. after continued use that’s SPECIFICATIONS
We thought the magnetic switch got in worth mentioning. When cut-
the way every time we reached for the bevel- ting tenons or dados, the arbor Grizzly G1023S Cabinet Saw
ing handle, and we would have preferred the would creep down slightly if the height ad- Street price: $795
accessory motor cover ($30) to be a standard justment wasn’t locked in place. It’s a minor Motor: 3 hp, 18 amp, single phase, 220v TEFC
item. But overall we were amazed at the value inconvenience, and locking in your blade Max cut depth: 31⁄ 8"
and performance of this saw. height is a good habit to acquire regardless. Cut capacity to left of blade: 8"
Cut capacity to right of blade: 25"
Now, two years later, we’re pleased to re- When you think of a top-of-the-line cab- Table size: 361⁄ 4" x 271⁄ 8"
port this saw is still one of the best values inet saw, the venerable Powermatic 66 and Table material: cast iron, with two solid cast wings
available for woodworkers. The G1023S has Delta Unisaw still hold top marks. But if Fence: Shop Fox Classic T-Style
seen constant use in our shop and remains you’re looking for a good quality contractor Weight: 360 lbs.
accurate and tight. The beefy and comfort- saw, or a great value in a cabinet saw, we’re
Nice features: An amazing price for a quality
able handles still turn easily, and we’ve got- still happy to recommend the G1023. cabinet saw with a very good precision fence
ten used to the switch location, though it’s We’re not the only ones thrilled with this system. Why spend money on a high-end contrac-
still in the way. We added the motor cover machine. We’ve talked to dozens of profes- tor saw when you can own a cabinet saw?
and dust collection hood, which made the sional and amateur woodworkers who have
saw more pleasant to use. However, we still bought this saw and have nothing but praise Recommended modifications: Though
Grizzly lists the motor cover and dust hood as
wish these were standard items. for its performace. accessories, they are must-have items with a
The Shop Fox Classic fence system con- To make things more interesting, Grizzly cabinet saw. The motor cover, G4223, is $29.95.
tinues to provide accurate repeatable cuts now offers a left-tilt version, the G1023SL, for
with no fuss. The fit and finish of the saw has $895. That price includes a motor cover and Available at: Grizzly Industrial: 800-523-4777
remained nice, with no loosening of parts or dust hood. (Sorry, Grizzly says there are no or www.grizzly.com
wearing of paint or surface areas. plans to add the extras to the G1023S.) There ABOUT OUR ENDURANCE TESTS: Every tool
As mentioned in our original October also is a 110-volt version of the saw, the featured in our Endurance Test column has
2000 review, though the saw comes equipped G1023S110, with a 2-horsepower motor, survived at least two years of heavy use in our
with two throat plate inserts we quickly re- which we haven’t tested. PW shop here at Popular Woodworking.
placed both with homemade zero-clearance — David Thiel
www.popwood.com 25
AMERICAN WOODSHOPS
A Mountain Stradivarius
Scott Phillips, host of TV’s ‘American Woodshop,’ visits
dulcimer virtuoso Warren May in his Kentucky workshop.
F or years I’ve wanted to make my own

Appalachian-inspired, mountain lap dul-
cimer. These wooden wonders have been
And sometimes he’s
taken an unlikely ob-
ject, such as Roller-
part of American culture since before the blade wheels, and built
American Revolution. Dulcimers are easy a safety device, such as
enough to make, yet tricky to perfect. a resawing feather-
Woodworker Warren May of Berea, Ky., just board for his band saw.
might have figured out the best way to make May works with both
these four-string instruments. I recently vis- hand and power tools.
ited this dulcimer maker and learned a few And perhaps his con-
things about designing a workshop to make tinued success is a re-
his projects — and yours — easier. sult of the hand-worked
May’s workshop is located on about 40 details he adds to every
acres of gently rolling hills, about five miles piece before it leaves
from Berea. It’s forested with mixed hard- his workshop.
woods. Many of the huge black walnut and In May’s shop there
cherry trees will be harvested in coming years are huge windows on
to be turned into mountain dulcimers and every available wall.
fine furniture. Yep — even though May’s The abundance of nat-
shop (he has three employees) has completed ural light makes the
more than 12,000 dulcimers, he still has time shop much easier to
to produce dozens of pieces of fine furniture work in. The electric
to sell every year. heat pump is nice, too.
After looking around his shop, I decided It keeps the 2,500-
that May and Thomas Edison might be square-foot shop con-
distant relatives. May uses machines that ditioned and comfort-
you would find in a well-equipped home shop. able year round.
But every machine is decked out with shop- For dust collection,
made jigs and fixtures. In some cases he’s built May has a big impeller that exhausts chips This “gang fret saw” looks like a miniature
or modified power tools (including an in- directly out the back of his shop into a re- direct-drive table saw (with more than a
credible “gang fret saw,” more on that later). cycling pile. Dust collection is more than a dozen blades) and a sliding table. All the 2"-
convenience in this shop. May’s finishing diameter circular saw blades have thin kerfs
room is adjacent to the main shop and must that fit the metal fret strips perfectly.
be kept virtually dust-free. Almost any musical instrument maker
The finishing area is outfitted with a siz- will tell you that gluing up the body takes
Photos by Christopher Schwarz.
able exhaust fan. When applying his usual lots of time and clamps. So May invented a
sanding sealer followed by multiple light spring-loaded jig to glue up the bodies that
coats of lacquer, the fan really reduces over- uses only one clamp. I’m not lying. The
spray, smell and fumes. photo on the next page explains it better
I asked May what the toughest part of than words can.
making a dulcimer is and he pointed to the Many dulcimer parts require very thin,
May’s motorized “gang fret saw” allows the fret fret board. All frets (metal strips perpendi- resawn wood. Here, May uses a generic
board to be held against the fence on the sliding cular to the strings) must be perfectly spaced brand 1 horsepower band saw with a 3⁄ 4"
table, as the table carriage is pushed over the blades. and fitted to produce perfect tonality. So he Lenox resaw blade. May frequently uses a
It’s a tool that’s hard to imagine, let alone make. But
May’s invention has helped him make instruments designed a saw that will cut all the slots for Teflon-like spray called DriCote to coat
with exacting precision—and save time. the frets in the neck of a dulcimer at once. the blade. This reduces blade friction and

WORKSHOP AND
RETAIL STORE
To see outstanding dulcimers surrounded with
elegant furniture, I went to the Warren A. May
Woodworker store in Berea. Warren and his
wife, Frankye, work closely together to offer a
wide selection of wooden objects for every
budget. It is fair to say they have something for
everyone. I bought a $400 dulcimer (my wife
really needed it for her birthday) that not only
looks perfect but the notes that escape it just
sing. Their store is on the same block as
Berea’s famous Boone Tavern and is where he
The Rollerblade wheel featherboard makes frequent
and Frankye both made and sold dulcimers and
resawing activities on May’s band saw safe, precise furniture in their early years. Today, they have
and pretty easy. the store set up for sales and the country wood
shop perfected for woodworking.
minimizes pitch and resin buildup. The store always has a selection of
Kentucky-style furniture. Warren May describes
Ultimately, this extends blade life.
it as honest, well-made, solid hardwood
And, of course, there’s the Rollerblade furniture with folk-inspired hand work in the
May’s clamping jig is a set of 5⁄ 16" bolts that are held
wheels. He uses the urethane-coated bear- in a special pattern frame. There are multiple dulcimer finishing touches. Hand tool work is part of the
ings to make a spring-tensioned featherboard profiles and each requires a matching “spring clamp- tradition of fine Kentucky-made furniture. Over
that pushes material firmly against his band ing jig.” All bolts are spaced properly to place just the the last 200 years, Kentucky has developed a
right amount of pressure at exactly the right spot. unique style of honest furniture design—
saw’s fence. The wheel material won’t mar While one jig costs about $30 to make, it replaces
the wood or let it slip. about 40 spring clamps and makes a better product.
simple, solid walnut, cherry and maple designs
accented with hand beading, diamond keyhole
In a dulcimer, the sound holes, along with
accents, line inlay of contrasting
the shape and thickness of the sound board woods and shaped aprons. Some
(the wide top board), impart the tonal qual- folks might misjudge this style as
ities to the finished instrument. Often, May Shaker simplicity with decorative
will take advantage of nature’s own book- highlights. I believe the Kentucky
matched limb holes, knots or natural open- style started before Shaker times
ings to form the sound holes. Or, he’ll use and in turn, may have influenced
the “western” Shakers’ furniture.
the scroll saw to cut humming birds, floral
His popular Kentucky sideboard
or heart-shaped openings. His love of hand uses inlaid maple diamond keyhole
work is evident in the beveled edges carved escutcheons. Beaded drawer fronts
on each sound hole design and the carved hide the perfect hand-made dove-
details on the tuning head. tails inside. Frankye May made a
Often, delicate-edged details require extra sign nearby that says: "Please do
support. A unique blend of thick viscosity not remove the drawers, trust me
they are made correctly.” Many
cyanoacrylate (super glue) mixed with rose-
drawers have been dropped over
wood dust makes a solid backing in seconds. the years when folks got a little too
A catalyst isn’t required because a chemical excited about the perfect details. All of the
in the dust accelerates the curing. Remember AMERICAN pieces are finished to a beautiful sheen.
to wear a mask when working with rosewood The Mays have been in their store for 27
WOODSHOPS years and at the country woodshop for 15
— this specie can cause allergic reactions.
I’ve been in hundreds of woodshops in Woodworkers love to see the years. Earlier, Warren May taught industrial arts
shops of other woodworkers. And to high school students. Today, he continues to
the last 20 years. No two are alike. May’s few people see as many notable teach, but now it’s how to play the dulcimer.
shop is a long, rectangular building that shops as Scott Phillips, host of His energy and skills are contagious. He be-
he built on a budget and has added to as PBS’ “The American Woodshop.” Every issue, Phillips lieves anyone can play a well-made instru-
needed. His shop has grown and evolved takes us inside the shops of some of the finest crafts- ment, and I have to agree. Dulcimers are easy
over the years. My day with May gave me men (and women) in America. You can see more about to learn to play and he can teach anyone the
Warren May’s shop by tuning in to “The American basics in just one sitting. They’re almost as
new ideas that will help make my work bet- Woodshop”on your local PBS station. Look for episode
ter and easier. PW easy to play as humming into a kazoo—and
#1010, or visit Woodcraft Supply to purchase a that is part of their magic.
—Scott Phillips, contributing editor videotape of the show.
DELTAGRAM
Roller Supports
For long work
on the table saw.
L ong work, which is ordinarily difficult and dangerous to han-
dle on either the table saw or jointer, can be sawn or jointed as
easily as a shorter board if a roller support is used. The two de-
signs shown here are typical of the numerous units, which have
been built by craftsmen. While both are intended as end supports,
they can be used successfully when set parallel with the table as a
side slide when crosscutting or rabbeting.
Unit No. 1, as shown below left, is made up from various widths
of 3⁄ 4" stock. The roller is turned to the specified size, the 3⁄ 4" tenons
at either end being made a part of the turning or doweled in place Unit No. 2 embodies the same general ideas as to usage, but
later as desired. The dimensions as given are standard for the varies somewhat in construction. The dimensions as given apply
table saw only and if desired to handle jointer work also, should to work on either the table saw or a jointer. A 3⁄ 8" bolt is driven into
be varied to suit. either end of the roller to fit corresponding holes drilled in the 2"
by 4" end pieces.
Dimensions as given for either unit can be varied to
suit such scrap lumber as may be on hand. Also, the length
of the slide can be increased so that the support also can
be used in connection with the band saw, shaper or any
other tool where a support is frequently necessary. Instead
of the slotted adjusting hole, a set position for each ma-
chine can be made by drilling holes through the slide to
take a wood or metal pin. This has some advantages
over the single long slide in that the correct height for any
machine can be located instantly without the need of
checking the roller against the machine table. Its disad-
vantage, of course, is that on a rough floor or where the
machine is used out-of-doors, the exact setting might not
always be correct. Great care should be used in setting the
support for jointer or shaper work to prevent any lifting
or sagging. PW
From Vol. 4 January 1935

A nostalgic look back at plans published by
Delta Machinery during the mid-20th century.

st
21century
TOOL
CABINET
A
fter making a living building same piece of furniture. Part of this is
fine furniture in a too-small because of certain skills and prefer-
shop for the past 10 years, my ences, but as the project continued, I
dad and I finally have decided to move was reminded that one other reason
the business into a larger shop. I got a was that we think and work quite dif-
little giddy once I saw all the extra ferently. Much like the process when
space and promptly decided to build the Transcontinental Railroad was
something to fill it. Malcolm, my dad, built, dad and I eventually decided to
and I talked about it, and as potential work on our indi-
clients would be visiting the location, vidual pieces, With space
we decided to build a piece to show knowing that they
off our work as well. were supposed to for modern and
That’s how this tool cabinet came meet in the mid-
about. We decided the cabinet should dle. Happily, it antique tools,
be for a 21st century woodworker. Sure worked.
there’s storage for a few hand planes, After a num- this tool cabinet will
but there’s also storage for cordless ber of discussions
drills and pneumatic air nailers. I also we determined keep things in order
decided this would be a great oppor- that the case for another 100 years.
tunity to share some quality shop time should be two
with my dad. pieces, an upper and a lower cabi-
Let me stop a minute here and men- net, with four deep-set doors for stor-
Photo by Al Parrish. Step photos by Glen Huey.
tion that while dad and I have worked ing tools as well. When opened, the
for the same customers for years, and cabinet would array our most-used
continue to work under the same fam- tools with easy access, while less at-
ily name, we don’t often work on the tractive and less-used tools would be
by Glen Huey & Malcolm Huey

Glen and Malcolm own Malcolm Huey & Sons in Middletown, Ohio. They both build custom
furniture for a demanding clientele; Glen is a contributing editor for Popular Woodworking.

www.popwood.com 31
Shaker-Style Storage
Dragging this 18th-century concept into
the 21st century is shown most easily in
the doors. To the left, Shaker pegs and a
variation on a Shaker candle box take care
of most of my electric sanding needs. The
belts hang neatly out of the way, and the
random orbit disc sheets can be arranged
in a “coarse” box and a “fine” box and
taken to the work as necessary. To the
right, all my router bits and many of my
most often-used router accessories are
within easy reach. Purchased router bit
holders drop into specially fit niches in the
door for easy access.
stored in drawers. We decided I thing work. If you need a great sides. To give the piece a sophis- in the lower section you end up
would build the upper section and deal more information than pre- ticated feel, we included a promi- having to almost lie on the ground
dad would build the lower case. sented here, you should put this nent crown moulding, a dramat- to tell if the tool you want is in
While I’m going to give you project on the back burner. ic waist moulding and tradition- its place. Drawers allow you to
the basics on how to build this al bracket feet to support the en- look down into the storage area
cabinet in this article, I’m not Everything In Its Place tire piece. The case is made from and quickly find the tool you’re
going to go into extensive detail. After building hundreds of an- curly maple, while the drawer looking for. Drawers also give the
This is a project that should be tique reproduction pieces, this fronts are mahogany with natu- cabinet a cleaner look. While I’m
adapted to your tool needs. While cabinet naturally followed the ral curly maple banding and an happy to tell you that I enjoy my
you can follow the construction construction techniques we’ve inset walnut oval. random orbit sander, I don’t think
and concepts, the sizes are like- grown used to. The case pieces After looking at the tools that it’s a very attractive tool.
ly to be different for your shop. were dovetailed together, with we wanted to store, we deter- There are certainly tools that
Also, this isn’t a project for be- the solid shiplapped backs set into mined that the best use of the should be seen, and these include
ginners. Even with our years of rabbets. Many of the drawers are case storage area was mostly draw- hand planes, specialty saws, chis-
experience, we found ourselves divided by, and glide on, indi- ers. While shelves are easier to els and marking tools. Rather
scratching our heads once or twice vidual mortise-and-tenoned web make, tools tend to wander to- than risk hanging the planes on
figuring out how to make some- frames that are dadoed into the ward the back of the cabinet, and the doors (where they could fall
A Place for Everything

With all my chisels in a row,
everything is stored away
nicely. Rare earth magnets
(buried in the strips attached to
the right-hand door) play an
important role here. They hold
the chisels and gouges to the
door tightly, but allow easy
removal. The drill bit holder,
lower left, also is held in place
with magnets.The cubbyholes
for planes keep everything tidy,
but accessible, and also do
double duty for a brad nailer.

32 3/4" top case 20 3/4"
3/4" 31 1/4" 3/4" 16 3/4" top case 4"
3/4" 3/4"
3" 2 3/8"
5/8"
7 3/4"
3/4"
3 1/4"
1/2"
1/2" 10 3/32" 3 1/4" 28 3/4"
1/2"
1/2" 15 3/8" 3 1/4"
1/2"
4 1/4"
1/2"
1/2" 4 1/4" 3/8"

7/8"
3/4"
3/4"
1/2" 7/8"
3/8"
3/4"
8 1/4"
3/4"
21 3/4"
12"
3/8"
1/2" 7/8"
3/4" 3/4"
5 1/4" 5 1/4"
Face trim removed
3/4" 32 5/8" 3/4" 17 1/2" bottom case 4"
34 1/8" bottom case 21 1/2"
Front elevation - doors open Profile
off if the door were jostled) we If you haven’t discovered the or closed the box stays in place. from the Shakers. The candle box
designed spaces for the four larg- joy of rare earth magnets, it’s time. But when I want to use the bits, is a Shaker staple, but by adapt-
er bench planes we use often (and I used these little wonders through- I pull the whole set free and take ing the size some I made two con-
room to add two more) above the out the tool cabinet. They pro- it to the work. venient storage bins for my most
drawers at the top of the cabinet. vide amazing support (holding While most fine woodwork- common random orbit sanding
All the smaller tools went into chisels and gouges suspended firm- ers are embarrassed to admit they discs. Once again, the Shaker
the doors, with a variety of ways ly) but still allow you to easily pry own a belt sander, there is a time pegs make it easy to take a selec-
to hang or store them. You’ll note them loose to use. They’re rea- and a place for it. Keeping the tion of grits to the work.
in the photos that router bits are sonably priced, and can be coun- belts handy is what is difficult. The plane storage is also wor-
stored in a bit holder that fits onto tersunk into a wood strip (as with The Shaker pegs attached to the thy of comment. There are purists
a ledge in the doors. I used sim- the chisels) so they’re out of the lower left door offer a great stor- out there screaming foul about
ple cup hooks to hang some way. I mentioned the drill box age answer for the belts and many storing planes on their soles. Yes,
drawknives and scrapers, and the earlier, it’s held to the cabinet other “hanging” tools. if the blade is not retracted in-
drill bits are stored in a box tem- door bottom with rare earth mag- In that same door you’ll no- side the body of the plane, it could
porarily attached to the door. nets. When the door is opened tice another adaptation of mine be damaged when putting the
www.popwood.com 33
32 3/4" top case
3/8" plane area

1
dividers
Drawer
33" top case
stop blocks
Runner frame
1/2" thick shiplapped back boards support
in 3/8" x 1/2" case dados See enlarged
details
64"
2
24 1/4" bottom case
Full extension
drawer slides
3
34 1/8" bottom case
Back elevation Section

plane down. can go with the minimalist ap-
HARDWARE That’s why I added a 1⁄ 4"-tall proach: Leave the drawer interi-
Rockler: 800-279-4441, riser block to the back of each or open and toss in the tools, or
or www.rockler.com plane cubby. The block lifts the you can add dividers of a vari-
2 - Accuride 14" full extension front end of the plane far enough ety of shapes to keep the tools
slides, #32805 to keep the blade from touching more orderly. Rockler (800-279-
1 - 48" piano hinge (lower section),
#19291
the bottom of the cubby. With 4441) offers a ready-made plas-
1 - 72" piano hinge (upper section), shorter length planes, you can tic insert that allows you to eas-
#19316 make the riser block an “L”-shaped ily adjust 1⁄ 4"-thick drawer di-
2 - Barrel bolts, #30923 affair that will keep the plane’s viders to accommodate any tool,
Horton Brasses: 800-754-9127 handle within easy reach of the without having to nail or screw
4 - Rosette pulls w/1" backplate, 3" front of the cabinet, rather than the dividers in place.
bore, #H-10 sliding too far into the cubby. Every woodworker has differ-
11 - Stirrup pulls w/1" backplate, Storing tools in the drawers ent tools. While my chisels and
#H-83
2 - Latches, SL-3
is a science in its own right. You gouges will fit in the spaces al-
lotted in this cabinet nicely, you
Misc. Hardware: Ready for glue, the upper case shows
the extended top and bottom, the may have a complete set of turn-
2 - 1⁄ 4" washers
Rare earth magnets available from dovetailed sides and the dado grooves ing tools requiring different stor-
Lee Valley Tools, 800-871-8158 or for the drawer dividers. age. I hope the ideas presented
www.leevalley.com
34 POPULAR
21ST CENTURY TOOL CABINET
NO. ITEM DIM. (INCHES) M AT. NOTES NO. ITEM DIM. (INCHES) M AT. NOTES
T W L T W L
Lower Cabinet Upper Cabinet (cont.)
❏ 2 Sides 3⁄
4 171⁄ 2 241⁄ 4 Maple ❏ 3 Vert. drwr dividers 1⁄
2 1 33⁄ 4 Mahogany
❏ 2 Top & bottom 3⁄
4 211⁄ 2 341⁄ 8 Poplar ❏ 3 Center drwr runners 1⁄
2 2 13 Poplar half-lap w/divider
❏ 1 Bottom filler 1⁄
2 71⁄ 4 341⁄ 8 Maple ❏ 3 Center drwr guides 1⁄
2
5⁄
8 111⁄ 2 Poplar
❏ 1 Top filler 1⁄
2 71⁄ 4 341⁄ 8 Maple ❏ 6 Side runners 1⁄
2
3⁄
4 123⁄ 8 Poplar
❏ 1 Front drawer divider 3⁄
4 3 331⁄ 8 Maple ❏ 4 Housed side runners 1⁄
2
3⁄
4 10 Poplar
❏ 1 Rear drawer divider 3⁄
4 3 331⁄ 8 Poplar ❏ 2 Rear drwr dividers 1⁄
2 21⁄ 4 315⁄ 8 Poplar
❏ 1 Base frame front 3⁄
4 3 371⁄ 8 Maple 45° both ends ❏ 1 Vertical back support 3⁄
4 3 133⁄ 8 Poplar
❏ 2 Base frame sides 3⁄
4 3 23 Maple 45° both ends ❏ 1 Filler @ crown 1⁄
2 21⁄ 4 48 Maple
❏ 1 Base frame back 3⁄
4 21⁄ 2 341⁄ 8 Poplar 11⁄ 2" TBE ❏ 1 Crown 3⁄
4 3 90 Maple
❏ 6 Front & side feet 3⁄
4 8 51⁄ 4 Maple ❏ 1 Cornice top moulding 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 90 Maple
❏ 2 Rear feet 3⁄
4 7 51⁄ 4 Poplar ❏ 4 Door extension sides 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 285⁄ 8 Maple
❏ 4 Door extension sides 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 211⁄ 2 Maple ❏ 2 Right door ext T&B 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 163⁄ 8 Maple
❏ 4 Door ext, top & bott 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 161⁄ 2 Maple ❏ 2 Left door ext T&B 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 151⁄ 8 Maple
❏ 4 Door front stiles 3⁄
4 3 211⁄ 2 Maple ❏ 4 Door front stiles 3⁄
4 3 285⁄ 8 Maple
❏ 2 Door front rails 3⁄
4 37⁄ 8 141⁄ 8 Maple 11⁄ 4" TBE ❏ 4 Door front rails 3⁄
4 3 13 Maple 11⁄ 4" TBE
❏ 2 Door front rails 3⁄
4 27⁄ 8 141⁄ 8 Maple 11⁄ 4" TBE ❏ 2 Door panels 1⁄
2 11 231⁄ 4 Maple 1⁄ 3
4" x ⁄ 8" rabbets
❏ 2 Door panels 1⁄
2 12 153⁄ 8 Maple 1⁄ 3
4" x ⁄ 8" rabbets ❏ 12 Top/2nd/3rd drwr sides 1⁄
2 31⁄ 8 12 Poplar
❏ 1 Waist moulding, front 3⁄
4 33⁄ 4 36 Maple 45° both ends ❏ 3 Top drawer backs 1⁄
2 21⁄ 2 10 Poplar
❏ 2 Waist moulding, sides 3⁄
4 33⁄ 4 221⁄ 2 Maple 45° one end ❏ 3 Top drawer fronts 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 10 Mahogany
❏ 1 Moulding under waist 3⁄
4
7⁄
8 84 Maple cut to fit ❏ 3 Top drawer bottoms 1⁄
4 12 91⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Moulding above feet 3⁄
4
7⁄
8 84 Maple cut to fit ❏ 2 2nd row drwr backs 1⁄
2 21⁄ 2 155⁄ 16 Poplar
❏ 2 Upper drwr sides 1⁄
2 8 141⁄ 4 Poplar ❏ 2 2nd row drwr fronts 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 155⁄ 16 Mahogany
❏ 2 Upper drwr F&B 1⁄
2 8 313⁄ 4 Poplar ❏ 2 2nd row drwr botts 1⁄
4 12 143⁄ 4 Plywood
❏ 1 Upper drwr face 3⁄
4 81⁄ 4 321⁄ 2 Mahogany ❏ 1 3rd row drwr back 1⁄
2 21⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Poplar
❏ 2 Lower drwr sides 1⁄
2 115⁄ 8 141⁄ 4 Poplar ❏ 1 3rd row drwr front 3⁄
4 31⁄ 4 311⁄ 8 Mahogany
❏ 2 Lower drwr F&B 1⁄
2 115⁄ 8 313⁄ 4 Poplar ❏ 1 3rd row drwr bottom 1⁄
4 12 301⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Lower drwr face 3⁄
4 12 321⁄ 2 Mahogany ❏ 4 4th/5th drwr sides 1⁄
2 41⁄ 8 12 Poplar
❏ 2 Drawer bottoms 1⁄
2 14 311⁄ 4 Plywood ❏ 2 4th/5th drwr backs 1⁄
2 31⁄ 2 311⁄ 8 Poplar
❏ 1 Back 1⁄
2 223⁄ 4 333⁄ 8 Poplar 4 boards ❏ 2 4th/5th drwr fronts 3⁄
4 41⁄ 4 311⁄ 8 Mahogany
Upper Cabinet ❏ 2 4th/5th drwr botts 1⁄
4 12 301⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Moulding above waist 3⁄
4
7⁄
8 84 Maple cut to fit ❏ 1 Back 1⁄
2 32 313⁄ 8 Poplar 5 boards
❏ 2 Sides 3⁄
4
3⁄
16 4 33 Maple Drawer edge inlay
❏ 2 Top & bottom 3⁄
4 203⁄ 4 323⁄ 4 Poplar ❏ Top three rows 1⁄
8
1⁄
2 240 Maple
❏ 1 Sub top 3⁄
4 20 315⁄ 8 Maple ❏ 4th & 5th rows 1⁄
8
3⁄
4 144 Maple
❏ 1 Bottom front filler 1⁄
2 8 311⁄ 4 4" Maple/21⁄ 8" Mahogany ❏ Lower section 1⁄
8 1 180 Maple
❏ 1 Cubby bottom 3⁄
4 143⁄ 4 32 Ply w/21⁄ 8" Mahogany ❏ 11 Upper section ovals 1⁄
8 11⁄ 2 Walnut
❏ 5 Cubby dividers 3⁄
8 12 81⁄ 8 Maple ❏ 4 Lower section ovals 1⁄
8 23⁄ 4 Walnut
❏ 4 Drawer dividers 1⁄
2 21⁄ 4 315⁄ 8 Mahogany KEY: TBE= tenon on both ends
here will allow you to lay out the and simplifies the built-up mould- Both cabinets have 1⁄ 2"-thick cabinet, which is nearly complete.
most useful interior for you. ings, making them approachable. shiplapped backs made from mul- All that’s left is to glue the front
Start construction by gluing tiple boards. To accommodate and rear drawer dividers in place.
Construction up and trimming to size the pan- the back thickness, cut a 1⁄2" x 5⁄8" Unlike the upper cabinet, the
Looking at the front of the cab- els for the sides, tops and bottoms rabbet on all four sides. drawers in the lower unit use
inet (and the materials list), the for both sections. Next, cut through-dovetails heavy-duty full extension draw-
number and placement of all the After the panels are sized, cut to join each cabinets’ sides, tops er slides. So there’s no need for
pieces can be overwhelming. To dados in the sides to accommo- and bottoms. Glue up both car- drawer runners, but dad’s a per-
get a simple look at the con- date the drawer runners. If you’re casses; be sure to check them for fectionist, so he went ahead and
struction, you just need to walk building the cabinet as pictured, squareness as you go. used mortise-and-tenon joinery
around back. The rear view in use the diagrams to locate the di- Now let’s look at the upper to attach the two runners to the
the diagrams quickly shows many vider locations and cut the dados and lower sections separately, front and rear dividers.
of the details of the construction in the sides. starting with the simpler lower When you attach the dividers,
www.popwood.com 35
As the dividers are
assembled, the interior
takes on a pleasing
complexity. Note the sub-
top panel at the top of
the photo taken from the
back. The space formed
by the sub-top allows
room to mount the
impressive crown mould-
ing, without affecting the
interior function of the
cabinet. You can also see
the front drawer dividers,
side runners and rear
drawer dividers in place.
glue the front divider in place, a mahogany piece.

but leave the runners and rear di- Next, mark and cut the dados
vider joint loose. This will allow for the cubby dividers in the sub-
for seasonal wood movement in top and the cubby bottom.
the sides of the case. While you’re cutting dados,
After assembly and finishing, but before the back is in place, you have a chance to
The upper cabinet has many take care of some other notches. see all the pieces come together from their less attractive angle. The smaller drawer
more drawer dividers, as well as The top and second rows of draw- dividers and supports are plainly visible here.
drawer runners, supports and a ers require three drawer runners
sub-top and horizontal partition that are half-lapped onto the di- fore putting glue and nail to runners, I used screws in slotted
to form the hand plane cubby viders. Two for the top tier of wood. Start with the plane cubby holes to let things move.
hole spaces. drawers, and one for the sec- hole section, then work down
The cubby bottom also serves ond tier. The front dividers are to the two upper tiers of drawer Doors
as the top divider of the drawer half-lapped only to the rear of dividers. Finally place the lower The doors are essentially frame-
section, so the leading edge should the rail, and then dadoed to ac- drawers, front dividers and the and-panel doors with a dovetailed
be mahogany to match the other cept the vertical drawer dividers, runners in place. If everything box glued to the back. About as
dividers. Because I didn’t feel like visible from the front of the cab- fits well, take it apart and do it basic as this type of door gets, the
wasting that much mahogany, I inet. You also can cut the mat- all again with glue. doors use a flat panel, grooved
added a 21⁄8" solid mahogany edge ing half-laps on the drawer run- As with the lower cabinet, stiles and rails, and haunched
to a poplar panel to make the full ners at this time. seasonal wood movement is a mortise-and-tenon joinery for the
panel. While doing this glue-up, After cutting all the runners, concern, so glue the front dividers frame itself.
I also made the bottom front filler, guides and supports, it’s time to and guides in place, but leave the With the cabinets assembled
which is made up of a maple and try the giant jigsaw puzzle be- rear dividers loose. On the lower (minus the mouldings) you can
check the door dimensions in the
The lower cabinet is shown
with the left door held in cutting list against your cabi-
place while the hinge is net size. The doors’ faces extend
attached. The doors them- beyond the dovetailed extension
selves are small cabinets, with at the center of each pair. This
a frame-and-panel door front
leaves room for the barrel slide
attached to a dovetailed
frame. Because the door is catches holding one of each pair
captured by the cabinet (top of doors.
and bottom), and flush to the
sides, you want to make sure Drawers
you’ve got the door the right There are many drawers, but
size before you glue it up.
Adjusting afterward is tricky. they’re built essentially the same
To give myself a little room, way. The drawers in the upper
you’ll notice that the door section are built with the fronts
front overhangs the frame a attached to the sides using half-
little to allow some fitting.
blind dovetails. The drawer backs
attach to the sides with through-

piece of paper that is Quarter-scale
the size of the door in- section details Cornice top moulding
teriors and lay your tools 3/4"
on it until you’re happy R 1/2"
with the arrangement Crown
and spacing. 3"
moulding
Filler
The color for the
Subtop
piece is a water-based
aniline dye (Moser’s
Golden Amber Maple Stop
from Woodworker’s 4" deep door
With the upper case flipped over, you can see the
Supply, 800-645-9292 1
top and sub top extending beyond the cabinet, with or www.woodwork-
33" top case

the filler, top cornice moulding and crown moulding er.com). I then top-
ready to be put in place. coated the piece with
28 3/4"
multiple coats of
dovetails. The bottoms of the sprayed-on satin-finish clear lac-
drawers are inserted into grooves quer. One note: To achieve the
cut in the sides and fronts, 1⁄ 2" up natural tiger maple detail on the
from the bottom edge. The bot- drawer fronts, all those were fin-
Drawer
toms slide below the lower edge ished with a simple Danish oil.
of the drawer back, and then are With all the work done, and
nailed in place to the drawer backs. the tools in place, dad and I spent Filler 1/2"
While the upper drawers ride about 40 minutes just leaning 3/8" 3/4"
R
on, and are supported by, drawer back with a cup of coffee looking Waist moulding 3/4"
runners attached to the cabinet at the piece. I won’t try and tell R 1/4" 3/4"
sides, the lower drawers ride on you that there weren’t a few awk- Filler 1/2"
full-extension drawer slides. ward discussions between us. For Stop
Because of this, the drawer fronts, example, the backs for the two
or faces in this case, extend 1⁄ 2" sections were different thicknesses
4" deep door
beyond the drawer sides on ei- (we fixed that for you in the cut-
ther side to hide the drawer slides. ting list) and we ended up with 2
24 1/4" bottom case
The easiest way to do this was to the catches on the doors on op- Drawer
simply make a drawer box, with posite sides from one another
dovetailed 1⁄ 2"-thick sides, front (that we left alone). All in all, 21 3/4"
and back and the same bottom working with dad was a reward-
arrangements as on the upper ing experience. But I think we’re
drawers. The 3⁄4"-thick mahogany, both OK with getting back to our
maple and walnut drawer fronts individual projects. PW
are then screwed to the drawer Drawer 3
box front once the proper spac-
ing is determined.
Filler 1/2"
3/4"
Details and Finish
The photos in the be- Base frame 3/4"
ginning of the story dis-

cuss the many different
Foot @ corners
details you can add to

the cabinet to trick it 5 1/4"
Quarter-scale
out to best suit your section details
tools. If you need a vi-
sual image to help you
lay out your door stor-
age, start with a blank The left-hand doors are held in place with a sliding catch.
www.popwood.com 37
Air Compresso
IN THE WOODSHOP
How to choose the right machine for the work you do.
L
ike many woodworkers, er. And that’s all it took – one reach of the average woodwork-
AIR SUPERIORITY I never gave much afternoon, and I was hooked. er. The challenge is wading
Air tools are lightweight. thought to buying an air One reason why is I’ve always through the myriad choices out
Since air tools are powered by a compressor. The guys I knew that been hammer-challenged. That’s there. Terms like “cfm,” “psi,”
compressor, they don’t need motors. owned one were mainly garage right, I can’t drive in a nail for “horsepower” and “cycle time”
This means they typically weigh less mechanics. They used their com- beans – I inevitably bend the more often confuse the shopper
than their electric cousins.
pressor to power impact wrench- nail, or ding the wood. But with than help. But armed with the
Air tools are compact. No es or to fill up a low tire or the the pull of a trigger, an air nail- right knowledge, choosing a com-
internal motor also means air tools kid’s pool toys. But when Norm er will drive and set a fastener in pressor is easy.
can be smaller and more compact.
The average air-powered drill is half
started using compressors on many the blink of an eye. I knew it was For starters, let’s eliminate
the size of an electric drill. It fits of his projects, I started to give the start of yet another love af- one entire class of compressors
better in your hand and is more it some thought. As I watched fair with a tool. Since then, I’ve – those powered by gasoline. Gas
comfortable to use. him effortlessly attach delicate used dozens of different air-pow- compressors require such con-
Air tools are powerful. mouldings with a brad nailer or ered tools and compressors and stant attention (like changing
Although compact and small, air apply an even coat of finish to a can’t imagine working in the the oil and adding gas), it’s like
tools are just as powerful as the large project, it dawned on me shop without them (see “Air owning another vehicle. The
electric equivalent. As an added that maybe he had something. Superiority” at left). only reason to buy one is if you
bonus, the air that flows through
the tool to power it also cools it
So when a neighbor asked for The catch, of course, to air- don’t have access to electricity
down. Unlike an electric tool that help installing wainscoting in powered tools is that you need – highly unlikely in a wood-
heats up the harder you work it, an his kitchen, I jumped at the a compressor to power them. But working shop.
air tool stays cool and won’t bog chance because I knew he was plummeting compressor prices So far so good. Let’s continue
down. planning on using his finish nail- have brought air power within to pare down your choices by tak-
Air tools are simple. Although
air tools can break like any other
tool, most of them are easy to repair
or rebuild yourself. For example, most
manufacturers of nailers and sanders
sell parts kits that will make your
worn-out air tools as good as new.
Air tools are convenient.

Wouldn’t it be convenient if all your
electric tools used a single power
cord that was detachable? This way
all you’d have to do is plug in one
cord and then hook it up to the tool Three of the most common compressors purchased by woodworkers.The pancake compressor (left)
you wanted to use. No more jumble has a 1- to 4-gallon tank and is best suited for occasional nailing chores.The larger twin tank
of cords. That’s exactly how it is with compressor (middle) generally holds 4 to 12 gallons of air and is suited for heavy-duty nailing and
air tools. They’re all powered by and the very occasional finishing chore.The single tank (right) holds 10 to 60 gallons (or more) of air. It is
accept the same single air hose. the compressor you need if you want to use air sanders or regularly spray finishes.
rs
Photo by Christine Polomsky.

(see the chart using. (If you’re
on air consumption on the planning on run-
next page). For instance, ning multiple tools simultane-
a narrow crown stapler used ously, add up the cfm require-
intermittently will need only ments of the individual tools to
1 to 3 cfm. But a random- get your target capacity.)
orbit sander, run continu- Recently, Porter-Cable and
ously, will gulp 6 to 10 cubic Craftsman introduced new lines
feet of air per minute. of compressors that tackle the
cfm/cycle time problem from a
tools you’ll Cycle Time different angle. These new com-
be using now Since most compressors are rated pressors use “high pressure tech-
and in the future. As for a 50 percent “duty cycle” nology” to provide longer, more
ing a look at long as you find a compres- (which means the motor is sup- continuous air to tools. To achieve
some important compressor char- sor that can produce the volume posed to be running no more than this, they’ve tinkered with the
acteristics: horsepower, cycle time, of air you need, the horsepower half the time the compressor is cut-out and cut-in pressure points
compressor design, tank config- is insignificant. Most air tools run in use), running a tool like a sander of the compressor. The cut-out
uration and the machine’s re- at 90 psi (pounds per square inch) non-stop will make the compressor pressure is the point where the
quired routine maintenance. – a pressure every compressor is run more often – maybe con- compressor stops filling the tank;
capable of producing. But what tinuously, which will ruin the ma- cut-in pressure is where it starts
Horsepower Rating volume of air (measured in cubic chine. To get around this, you’ll filling the tank. By raising both of
While compressors are typical- feet per minute or cfm) does the need a compressor that produces these points, a larger “reserve” of
ly rated by horsepower – between tool need to operate properly? All a cfm higher than the highest air is available, which lets you work
3⁄
4 hp to 10 hp and up – what’s re- air tools have varying cfm needs rated tool you’re planning on longer without risking reduced per-
ally important is the volume of formance – a common problem
air they produce at a sustained by Rick Peters with compressors that cut-in at 95
pressure. The secret to select- Rick Peters is the author of “Air Tools: How to Choose, psi – only 5 psi above the mini-
ing a compressor? Define what air Use and Maintain Them” (Sterling Publications). mum requirement formost air tools.
www.popwood.com 39
Compressor Design and no tank at all. The larger the
Here’s another factor: When com- tank, the longer you can work at
AIR CONSUMPTION CHART
TOOL CFM PSI
paring compressors, you may find a desired pressure and flow rate –
two with the same horsepower but at the cost of portability. I Air chisel 4-6 70-90
3⁄
8” drill 4-6 70-90
rating that yield widely different prefer twin tanks for small com- 3⁄
8” impact wrench 3-4 70-90
airflows. The reason is design: a pressors because I can carry them
Stapler 1-3 70-90
single-stage or two-stage, with with the tanks against my leg; this
Brad nailer 2-4 70-90
one piston or two. A single-stage prevents accidental burns as the Finish nailer 4-7 70-90
compressor squeezes air in a sin- compressor heats up from use. I’d Framing nailer 4-10 70-90
gle piston stroke to 25 to 125 psi. advise going with a convention- Caulk gun 1-2 5-70
In a two-stage compressor, in- al single tank for a larger com- Finish sander 5-9 70-90
termediate pressurized air is fur- pressor because they’re well bal- Random-orbit sander 6-10 70-90
ther compressed in a second cylin- anced and easy to move. Small, Sandblast gun 2-3 30-90
der to 100 to 250 psi. Since most oil-free compressors are available Pressure washer 2-5 40-60
air tools only require 90 to 100 sans tank, but they run continu- Paint sprayer 1-5 10-70
psi to operate, a single-stage com- ously and have trouble deliver-
pressor will handle just about any ing the air volume you’ll need. pressor that can produce 5 to 6
job you can throw at it. Also, two- cfm. If you won’t be working with
stage compressors tend to be more Recommendations air-gobbling tools, a small portable
expensive and heavier than sin- If you’re planning on using high- compressor (around 11⁄ 2 hp) ca-
gle-stage units and usually require cfm tools like framing nailers pable of producing 3 to 4 cfm
220-volt power. and random-orbit sanders, I rec- with a 4- to 6-gallon tank will
ommend a large compressor do the job. PW
Tank Configuration (around 3 hp) with a 20- to 30-
There are four basic tank config- gallon tank and an output be-
urations to consider: single (10 tween 8-10 cfm. If you want to
to 60 gallons), twin (4 to 12 gal- try your hand at spraying fin-
lons), pancake (1 to 4 gallons) ishes, go with a midsize com-
MAINTAINING COMPRESSORS
Just like a car engine, oil-lubricated compressors need regular mainte- Water tends to collect
nance: Oil must be checked and topped off, and the filter and oil need to in your air compres-
be periodically replaced. Despite this, oil-lubricated compressors have a sor’s tank.Unscrew
reputation for performance. They often will run twice as long as an oil-free the valve at the
compressor between rebuilds. A typical, well-designed, oil-lubricated bottom of the tank to
compressor will need a rebuild after 2,000 hours of use - that’s three to release the water.
four years if you use your compressor 10 hours a week.
Oil-free compressors, on the other hand, use non-metal piston rings,
Teflon-coated parts and sealed bearings. Yes, they’re maintenance-free –
but only for a while. Since they don’t use a lubricant, the internal parts of
an oil-free compressor are constantly rubbing against each
other. These compressors need rebuilds roughly twice as The pressure release valve is a fast
often as oil-lubricated compressors. way to empty your compressor of
There’s little to go wrong with a compressor as long as air. This valve also prevents the
you service it regularly – in particular, you need to religious- machine from exploding if over-
ly empty the compressor tank after every use (top). When air pressurized.
is pressurized, the moisture in the air collects inside the
tank. If you don’t empty it out, it’ll rot your tank. It’s also
important to change the compressor oil and clean the filter
per the manufacturer instructions. Finally, make sure to test
the pressure relief valve on a regular basis. This important
safety device will eventually wear out under pressure. And
when it does, you won’t know until the tank explodes (no
fun at all). Just pull the pin periodically to make sure it’s
functioning well.

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The Rout Stuff.

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all-weather
MORRIS CHAIR
Morris chair is a great place to settle in and do lots of things, in-
A cluding reading a book, enjoying a drink, chatting with friends and

watching a good rain storm. During at least half of the year in
the Midwest these things are nice to do outside, as well as inside, but drag-
ging a white oak mortise-and-tenoned Morris chair onto your deck isn’t
the easiest thing. Not one to be put out of a comfortable position, I de-
cided painted pine could work for a Morris chair as well, and so I head-
ed for the home center store.
The chair is made entirely from 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 pine, about $40 worth.
The hardest joint on this chair is a
butt joint, and if you’ve got a jigsaw, Morris chairs
drill and a hammer you can knock one
out in a day. With the help of a cou- are pretty darn
ple extra tools, my personal best time
is under four hours. Your hardest work comfortable,
will be picking through the lumber
racks to find the straightest and most but they aren’t
knot-free lumber from the store.
The chair is designed to have a the type of
cushion, but you don’t have to add
one. If you don’t use a cushion, the furniture you
chair may feel a little deep when you
sit in it. Because of this, I’d suggest drag out onto
taking 2" off the lengths for the side
rails, arms, seat slats and side cleats. the porch —
Readjust the spacing of the side slats
to fit the shorter seat. My cushions until now.
came from a home center store and
were modified with a little sewing. You also can check out www.sum-
merlivingdirect.com and buy their “Winston cushions” (items # W1917
and W1907).
Start your building by cutting out the pieces to form the front and rear
legs. Traditional Morris chairs typically have very stout legs, and I did-
n’t want to lose that look or stability, so I edge-glued and nailed two pieces
together to form a “T.” Face-on or from the side, the sturdy leg is still vis-
ible. With the legs formed, the rear (shorter) legs need to have the top
by David Thiel
Questions or comments? You can contact David at 513-531-2690 ext.255
Photo by Al Parrish.
or at [email protected].
www.popwood.com 43
With the legs assembled, attach both lower side stretchers. Then place an upper Simply screw the front and rear stretcher between the side frames and it starts to
stretcher in position and draw a line from the top of the angle on the back leg to the look like a chair.
front leg. Cut the stretcher on the mark, then attach the upper stretchers, complet-
ing the two side frames.
end cut at a 5˚ angle from front shorter piece, a 5˚ angle is formed, the bottom edge flush to the bot- well. Then simply lay the two
to back. Remember that the back and the arms can be attached tom of the rear seat stretcher. outside slats tight against the sides
on these legs is the top of the “T.” to the legs and top rails. Cut the Then lay a straightedge on the and back and nail them in place.
A miter box made quick work of taper shown in the diagrams on rear cleat, stretching across the Put the center slat in place next,
this step. the back of the arms to add a lit- front stretcher of the chair. This then fill in with the four thinner
The next step is to get your tle more grace to the piece, then is the angle the seat will take. slats, spacing them evenly.
box of 11⁄ 4" deck screws out and center the arms on the front legs Mount the front cleat to the front The back is constructed by
attach the lower stretchers to the and attach. I used screws here, stretcher so that it fits under the forming L-shaped sides, screwing
inside of the legs with the top because I knew in my heart that straightedge. The two side cleats a top and bottom rail between
edge 8" off the floor. With those I’d be dragging the chairs around are mounted following the angle them, then nailing the slats even-
attached, slip the top stretchers by the arms. I was right. The extra of the straightedge. Mounting ly spaced across the back. To allow
into place, flush with the front strength is a good move. the seat slats is simple from here. the back to fold both forward and
leg, and mark and cut the bevel The seat of the chair is formed Cut the slats and use a router to back, the continuous hinge needs
on the rail to allow the arms of by simply adding nailing cleats round over at least the front edges to be mounted to the inside of
the chair to slope back. Then to the inside of the chair frame. of the boards. If you like, go ahead the back chair rail and to the out-
screw these stretchers in place, Screw the rear cleat in place with and round over the long edges as side of the lower back rail.
also on the inside of the legs and
then screw the front and rear The side slats
stretchers in place, above the are mounted
flush to the
lower side stretchers. With the bottom of the
side frames complete, cut the lower side rail
pieces for the side slats using the and cut to
match the
sides themselves to determine the angle of the
angle to cut on the top of the slats. top rail.
I spaced them evenly and used Simply hold
the piece in
a pneumatic brad nailer to attach place, make a
the slats as they’re more deco- mark, and
rative than structural. choose your
toothed tool
The two arms are cut from 37"- of choice to
long pieces. Measure 41⁄2" in from make the cut.
the front edge of each, then cross-
cut the pieces at this point at a
21⁄ 2˚ angle. By flipping over the

4" 1 1/2"
1 1/4"
1 1/2"
2"
5/8" holes Outline of arm
8" 22 1/2"
2 1/2"
3/4"
2"
17 1/2"
16"
3 1/2" 1 1/2"
Foot rest plan
3 1/2"
Chair plan
13 1/2"
22 1/2"
2 3/4"
17"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
1 1/2"
3 1/2"
3 1/2"
3/4" 1 1/4"
Foot rest section
1 1/2"
5 1/2" 4 1/2"
31 1/8"
30"
30"
3 1/2"
1"
Hinge
22"
3 1/2"
8"
4 1/2"
24 1/4" 21 1/2"
3 1/2" 3 1/2" 3/4" 2 3/4" 2 3/4" 3/4"
Chair elevation Chair section
ALL-WEATHER MORRIS CHAIR

NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) NOTES NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) NOTES
T W L T W L
❏ 2 Legs (front) 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 22" ❏ 4 Seat cleats 3⁄
4 11⁄ 2 27" bevel 2 to fit
❏ 2 Legs (front) 3⁄
4 23⁄ 4 22" ❏ 3 Seat slats 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 261⁄ 2" trim to fit
❏ 2 Legs (rear) 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 201⁄ 8" bevel to fit ❏ 4 Seat slats 3⁄
4 11⁄ 2 261⁄ 2" trim to fit
❏ 2 Legs (rear) 3⁄
4 23⁄ 4 201⁄ 8" bevel to fit ❏ 2 Dowels 1⁄
2 dia. 2"
❏ 6 Stretchers 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 27" bevel 2 to fit ❏ 1 Hinge 11⁄ 2 20"
❏ 2 Arms 3⁄
4 51⁄ 2 37" trim to length
Foot rest
❏ 10 Side slats 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 171⁄ 2" bevel to fit
❏ 2 Back stiles 3⁄
4 11⁄ 2 30" ❏ 4 Legs 3⁄
4 11⁄ 4 131⁄ 2"
❏ 2 Back stiles 3⁄
4 2 30" ❏ 4 Legs 3⁄
4 2 131⁄ 2"
❏ 2 Back rails 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 21" ❏ 2 Sides 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 221⁄ 2"
❏ 1 Back rail 3⁄
4 11⁄ 2 17" ❏ 2 Sides 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 16"
❏ 5 Back slats 3⁄
4 11⁄ 2 27" ❏ 4 Slats 3⁄
4 21⁄ 2 16"
❏ 1 Back support 3⁄
4 2 28" bevel to fit ❏ 2 Cleats 3⁄
4
3⁄
4 17"
Outdoor screws are available at McFeely’s 800-443-7937 or www.mcfeelys.com
www.popwood.com 45
The arms are cut to the front and rear lengths at a 21⁄ 2˚ angle
and then the front piece is flipped upside down. This gives you
a 5˚ angle at the joint. While the inner part of the arm is well
supported by the legs and stretchers, the outer part of the arm
needs some extra support. With a little variation on the Arts &
Crafts exposed joinery theme, I used an exposed biscuit, As you can see on the end, the back stiles are glued together to form “L”-shaped sides, then the back rails
cutting the biscuit slot at the mating point of the arm, then are screwed in place between the two sides. The 11⁄ 2" rail is attached to the upper rail to make a more
inserting the biscuit and later cutting and sanding it flush. solid looking and feeling back.
Mounted this way, the two back arm, then drill the rest of the hole with the top edge of the piece. tle sanding to knock off the sharp
stiles will keep the back from re- from the underside of the arm. The glue should hold, but to add edges and make a nice surface on
clining. To solve this I cut a bevel To make the chair an adjustable a little extra strength I shot a brad the arms. The best outdoor fin-
on the back stiles using a hand recliner, cut a back support bar nail through the back of the piece ish is one that blocks light and
saw. Mount the back and fold it as shown in the cutting list and into each dowel. seals the wood. Around my neigh-
forward for now. cut a chamfer along one edge. It’s not a decent Morris chair borhood that’s paint. I picked a
Next, mark the 5⁄ 8" hole lo- Then mark the bar to match the unless it has a foot rest. This one nice kelly green and used about
cations on the arms and drill the holes in the arms and drill two is fairly simple, with the four legs seven cans of spray paint.
1⁄
holes using a spade bit. To avoid 2" holes through the piece. Put again using the strength formed You may have noticed the ref-
tear-out, drill through the top of a little glue on the two 2"-long by an L-shaped glue-up. Four erence to my “best time” at the
the arm until the tip of the bit sections of dowel and insert them stretchers screwed between give beginning of this story. Since
pokes through the bottom of the into the holes until they are flush the footstool its shape, and cleats building the first of these chairs
and some evenly spaced slats fin- I’ve built a second for myself,
ish the job. Again, this is designed and there have been orders pour-
for a cushion, so if you aren’t using ing in from family and neigh-
a cushion, adjust your dimensions bors. So why don’t some of you
and mount the slats to the top of take these plans and start up a
the stretchers. side business. Please, take some
You’re ready to finish. Do a lit- pressure off me! PW
With the back slats in place, the ends of the back stiles need to be beveled to allow The completed back is screwed in place against the back seat rail with a continuous
the back to recline to a comfortable position. I’m beveling the pieces here with a hinge. You can also see the three holes in each arm that the back support (shown on
pull saw at more of an angle than necessary, but it won’t hurt anything. the right-hand arm) drops into.

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Metal-bodied
Jack
Planes
A well-tuned jack plane can quickly trim doors,
fit drawers and eliminate edge sanding forever.
If you’ve never successfully used a plane before,
here’s how to buy one, set it up and use it.
Photos by Al Parrish.
L
et’s be honest here: Teaching power tools, there are myriad ad- about everything else.
yourself to use a hand plane justments that must be made to Equipped with a fence from
properly is difficult. It’s like adapt the tool to different plan- Lee Valley Tools, my jack plane
trying to teach yourself to drive ing situations. A plane set up to cleans saw blade marks off the
an 18-wheeler. Don’t let any- cut perfect shavings on sugar pine edge of every board in a project.
one tell you any different. might not do so well on ash, white I never have to worry about round- I’ll taper table legs on my band
Back in the day — before the oak or hard maple. ing over any edges with a ran- saw and clean up the tapers with
apprentice system was disband- Now before you give yourself dom-orbit sander again. This isn’t a jack plane. Again, I have more
ed — journeymen cabinetmak- up to a life of power sanding, let about some “hand-tool heritage” control, and the tapers need al-
ers showed their apprentices how me tell you this: Learning to use stuff. It’s simply a better and faster most no sanding when I’m done.
to properly sharpen the iron, how a plane is worth every minute way to do things.
to adjust the tool and how to cut of agony and puzzlement. In fact, The same goes for trimming First, Learn to Sharpen
paper-thin shavings. Perhaps most I personally couldn’t imagine doors and drawers. The inset doors Before you’ll have any luck with
importantly, the master was there woodworking without hand planes I fit with my jack plane fit better a jack plane, you need to get fa-
to tell the apprentice what he was — or without my table saw and than those I’ve fit with a power miliar with sharpening. The iron’s
doing wrong when the plane jointer, for that matter. jointer or table saw. Why? I have edge must be keen, or the plane
stopped working well. “Your iron Of all my planes, three see the more control over where the cut won’t work. All the sharpening
is dull; your frog is too far forward; most use. I have a shoulder plane stops and starts, so things are less systems out there work; you need
your chipbreaker is set too far for trimming tenons, a smooth- likely to spiral out of control. to find one that’s right for your
back. Here, this should fix things.” ing plane for preparing wood for Finally, my jack plane excels budget and your level of dedi-
These days, unless you take a finishing and a jack plane for just at cleaning up bandsawn edges. cation. There are lots of decent
good class, you’re on your own. by Christopher Schwarz books on sharpening; I recom-
So it should come as no surprise mend “The Complete Guide to
Comments or questions? Contact Chris at 513-531-2690 ext. 407 or
to you if you’ve had terrible luck Sharpening” (The Taunton Press)
[email protected].
using a hand plane. Unlike many by Leonard Lee.

GIVE US YOUR BEST SHAVING AND
Once you learn to sharpen, Begin by working on the sole.
you need to purchase a decent To be fair, there are people out WE’LL SEND YOU A FREE ‘MERIT BADGE’
plane. We’ve reviewed all of the there who insist the sole must be Learning to set up a bench plane for woodworking is a major accomplishment. I
new jack planes available on the lapped 100 percent dead flat and can remember pulling my first perfect shaving from a maple board after hours of
market today and one of Stanley’s be as shiny as a mirror when done. practice. Excited, I held up the shaving like a fresh kill and showed it to my wife.
“Um, that’s nice, dear,” she said.
classic 100-year-old planes, which Others say that sole flatness is If this article helps you tune up a plane, we want you to
you’ll see at flea markets almost highly overrated, and the only know that — unlike your spouse — we’re excited
anywhere. Find a plane that fits thing you need to be worried about about your accomplishment. And we want to
your budget, sharpen the iron and are major warps and bows. give you a little something to recognize the
get ready to tune it up for work. It’s been my experience that moment. We’ve ordered a big batch of
embroidered badges that are in the
the truth is somewhere between. spirit of the merit badges that Boy
Set-up: Same for Antique I lap my soles so that the area in Scouts earn on their path to becom-
and New Jack Planes front of the mouth is flat. And I ing Eagle Scouts. We think they look
All planes (old and new) require make sure that most of the sole quite nice on a shop apron.
“fettling,” also called tuning. In (especially the edges) is flat be- Once you get your plane in tune,
put your best shaving in an envelope
general, the more money you pay hind the mouth. I don’t worry along with a self-addressed stamped
up front for your plane, the less much about the extreme front envelope and send them to:
fettling you’re in for. On average, and rear of the sole. These are Popular Woodworking
expect to spend anywhere from more likely to be out of kilter, es- Hand Plane Merit Badge
one to six hours to fettle a plane. pecially if the plane has ever been 1507 Dana Ave.
Cincinnati, OH 45207
We’ll send you the free badge, and then you can show that to your spouse.
To which he or she will probably reply, “That’s nice.” And remember: Don’t
forget to include the self-addressed stamped envelope. That will ensure you get
your free badge.
dropped. And as to the required oddly enough, Zirconia Alumina).
final sheen on the sole, I’m not No matter what you call it, this
much of a purist here, either. I’ve light blue-colored sanding belt is
made a few soles look like a mir- used for thicknessing wood in
ror, but it didn’t seem to boost wide-belt sanders and abrading
performance much. Lap until stainless steel and titanium; so
you’re tired, then give the plane it’s fine for a plane’s sole. You can
a try. If you’re satisfied, stop. If purchase it in belts from a home
not, carry on. center ($6 for two belts; get some
There are several ways to lap medium- and fine-grit belts to
the sole, but the most important start), or order it from Klingspor
thing to remember is that the sur- (800-645-5555). Attach the belts
face you use for lapping must be to a flat surface using a spray ad-
flat. Your choices include thick hesive or rubber cement.
glass, a marble pastry slab or a The other option is silicon
metal casting — usually the wing carbide powder. You sprinkle a
on your table saw. few pinches of powder along with
a light-bodied oil or kerosene on
Sandpaper or your flat surface and rub the sole
Silicon Carbide? until it’s flat (see photo at left).
Next you have to choose an abra- You can buy a 4-ounce jar of 90-
sive. Most people use either sand- grit powder for $3.95 from Lee
Flatten, or lap, the sole with the plane fully paper or silicon carbide grit. In Valley Tools (800-871-8158). Or
assembled (but with the iron retracted into
sandpaper, the choice product you can buy a kit of five grits (90
the body). I start with 90-grit silicon carbide
powder and kerosene. Rub the sole on your these days is called Alumina- grit up to 600 grit) for $12.95.
flat surface in a figure-8 pattern, being sure Zirconia (and sometimes it’s called, One thing worth mentioning is
not to concentrate your efforts in one certain
place. It’s like a big sharpening stone, and
you don’t want to dish the center.
Turn the plane over after a few minutes

and check your progress. You can see the
red marks at the toe and heel of the sole.
This is the point where I’m ready to move
up to a finer-grit powder.
THE JACK OF ALL PLANES?

Many hand planes have nicknames that describe what they’re used for: smooth-
ing planes for smoothing, jointer planes for jointing, shoulder planes for trim-
ming shoulders etc. But what does “jack” have to do with a “jack plane?”
Ever since I got into woodworking, people have told me that the “jack”
refers to the expression “jack of all trades.” The jack plane, it was explained,
was a good all-around plane , so that’s the nickname it received.
So I asked Graham Blackburn, the author of “Traditional Woodworking
Handtools” (The Lyons Press) and a longtime hero of mine, about jack planes.
According to Blackburn, “jack” is an expression used since the Middle Ages to
describe something that is common, such as jack boots or a jack knife.The jack
plane is indeed one of the most common sizes you’ll find on the shelves of hard-
ware stores. However, it could be argued that the “jack” refers instead to the most
common sort of carpentry and construction work performed with this plane.
Indeed, Blackburn explained how carpenters called the plane a “jack plane”
while cabinetmakers called the same instrument a “fore plane.”And to make
things even more complex, the premier English plane manufacturers of the day
tried to separate their products from the common ones by calling the same-size
plane a “panel plane.”
But in the end, the people spoke, and in this country we call it a jack plane
— no matter if the tool is used for fine furniture work or trimming an interior
door to fit its jamb.

that if you use the powder on your the silicon carbide, you will have THE VENERABLE AND AFFORDABLE
table saw wing it will lower the to occasionally refresh the slur-
sheen of the cast iron to a dull ry with another pinch or two of STANLEY TYPE 11 JACK PLANE
grey. It’s only cosmetic, but it the abrasive powder. I’m sorry to say it, but Stanley just doesn’t make hand planes like it used to.
bothers some people. When your sole looks good, Though the new English-made Stanleys can be tuned up to perform adequately,
Personally, I prefer the sand- move up a grit and continue your you can easily purchase a plane from the Stanley Works’ glory days for less
money. The only catch is that you might have to do a lot more tuning and clean-
paper over the powder. It makes work. Keep doing this until you ing than you would on a new plane. But believe me, the results are worth it.
much less mess and leaves a shinier run out of finer grits or patience. Without a doubt, the best bench planes that Stanley ever produced were the
surface on the sole of your plane. Bed Rock line of professional planes, which began production in 1902 and were
No matter which abrasive you Fixing Your Frog discontinued after World War II. These planes are different than other Stanley
choose, the method is essential- The frog is the soul of your hand planes in the way the frog mates with the base casting. Simply put, there’s a lot
more contact between the frog and base, so there’s less opportunity for blade
ly the same. Affix the sandpaper plane. It holds the iron steady chatter. It’s such a good idea that Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and Clifton use that
to or mix up a slurry on your flat so it won’t chatter and hop across same 100-year-old technology on their premium planes. But trust me, it’s tough
surface using a few pinches of your work like, well, a frog. to afford a Bed Rock plane (unless you’re prone to dumb luck at yard sales).
powder. Put your plane together Essentially, you want your iron to They’re as expensive as a new Clifton or Lie-Nielsen.
as if you were going to plane wood, seat firmly against the frog and In my opinion, the next best thing is a Stanley Type 11 plane. These planes,
produced between 1910 and 1918, are common sights at flea markets and on
but retract the blade into the body. the frog to screw firmly to the base. eBay, the internet auction site. I’ve fixed up four of these planes and find them
This is critical because the lever First, fix up the face of the frog. excellent performers. Here’s why: The face of the frog of the Type 11s (and earlier
cap exerts pressure on the base On a medium-grit sharpening planes) is a flat casting. Properly prepared, this frog will give rock-solid support
casting and it can affect the shape stone, rub the face of the frog to to your iron and chipbreaker. Modern-day frogs have small ribs on the face of the
of the sole slightly. remove milling marks and high frog that support the iron, so blade chatter is more likely. As an added bonus, the
body castings of the Type 11s have had almost 100 years to settle — unlike some
Now take a permanent magic spots. As with your plane’s sole, manufacturers’ new castings that have not been completely stress-relieved
marker and color the sole of the you can check your progress with during manufacturing. So after you flatten the sole, it’s likely to stay that way.
plane. I like red. Rub the plane a magic marker. Move up in grits So how do you know if you have a Type 11? It’s pretty easy. Type 11 planes
for about 30 seconds on your abra- as you did with the sole. Unlike have three patent dates cast into the base behind the frog: March 25, 1902; Aug.
sive surface and turn the plane the sole, this is quick work. 19, 1902; and April 19, 1910. As far as I know, it’s the only Stanley bench plane
with three patent dates. Additionally, the front knob is a low, squat, mushroom-
over. The red spots are your low- Now screw the frog to the base shaped thing. All later planes
lying areas. Continue rubbing the casting as shown in the photo on have the same “high” knob on
plane on the abrasive until you the next page. Notice the black planes today. There are some
get as much red off as you can. rib between the two legs of the other trademarks of planes of
With the sandpaper, you will frog. Keep an eye on that rib. First that era, including the fact that
the lever cap does not have
periodically have to use a brush position the frog about where you “Stanley” cast into it, a feature
to clean off the metal filings. With will keep it for general-purpose found on planes made from
1925 until today.
Sometimes you’ll find a
plane that has some of the Type
The low knob is an immediate clue that the
11 characteristics, but the plane
plane you’re looking at may be a Type 11, a
might have a high knob or a
desirable and inexpensive option to many
lever cap with Stanley’s logo
modern-day planes.
cast into it. Likely you have a
“frankenplane” that has been assembled from parts from different eras. If the
frog still has the solid cast face, it’s worth considering. However, be sure to ask
the seller for a discount.
So how much should you pay for a Type 11? That depends on how pretty
you like your tools and how long you’re willing to troll around. Nice examples of
Type 11s fetch $30 to $40 on eBay. Planes with defects, such as a split in the
handle or rust pitting on the iron, can be had for as little as $7.50. I’ve bought
all mine for between $12 and $15, but they all needed a little work.
Many of these Type 11 planes have corrugated soles. The thought was that
the corrugations would reduce friction while planing, which has been dismissed
Here you can see the difference a little by many physicists-turned-woodworkers. However, the corrugations do make it
stoning makes to your frog. Your iron is easier to flatten the sole of the plane. You have to remove only about half the
going to seat much more firmly against metal as you would on a sole without the corrugations.
the frog once it’s flattened to this point. Finally, I recommend you purchase a new iron for your Type 11. Hock Tools
(888-282-5233), Lee Valley Tools (800-871-8158) and Woodcraft (800-225-
I use a diamond stone to flatten the face 1153) all manufacture or sell aftermarket irons that are thicker and better made
of the frog, but any medium-grit stone will do. You’ll have to work around the lateral than stock irons. You’ll be glad you did.
adjustment lever, but you’ll get most of the frog flattened this way. — Christopher Schwarz, senior editor
edge a bit. Anything you can
do to reduce friction between the
plane and the shavings will make
your tool work better.
Tricks for a Perfect Setup

The hard part is over; now it’s
time for a test run. Attach the
chipbreaker to the iron. Set the
chipbreaker so it’s a little less than
1⁄
16" back from the edge of the
Take a few minutes to polish the top You can stone the edge of your chipbreak- Here you can see the rib between the iron. This is a good, all-purpose
hump of the chipbreaker. Anytime you er freehand, but a scrap piece of wood two legs of the frog. If this protrudes setting. For rough work, set the
can reduce friction you’ll improve will make the operation foolproof and past the face of the frog, your iron isn’t
going to seat properly. File it down or
chipbreaker back a little more.
planing performance. quick. Stone this edge until it seats tightly
against the iron.A well-seated chipbreak- adjust your frog forward. For fine work, move the chip-
work. You want your mouth to er will save you from disassembling your breaker up slightly.
be about 1⁄16" wide, perhaps small- plane every few strokes to clean out the This is a quick fix. Put a scrap Put the iron assembly in place
er if you’re going to use this oc- shavings choking the mouth. piece of wood next to your sharp- on the frog and put the lever cap
casionally as a smoothing plane. ening stone and stone the edge in place. Now is a good time to
Put the iron and chipbreaker iron bends, too, that’s also a prob- of the chipbreaker. It shouldn’t check the setting of that screw in
in place and lock the lever cap. lem. Put the chipbreaker in a vise take a lot of time; chipbreakers the middle that holds everything
Check the mouth. If it’s about the and bend it using your hands to are made from soft metal. The together. The screw should be
right size, remove the lever cap, increase or decrease the amount scrap of wood keeps your chip- tight against the lever cap but you
chipbreaker and iron. Rub your of spring in it. It’s not hard to do. breaker at a consistent angle. should still be able to smoothly
finger over that rib. If it protrudes Now, screw the chipbreaker Reassemble the iron and chip- adjust the iron’s cutting depth by
past the frog, you’ve got trouble. to the iron and hold the assem- breaker and check your work. When turning the wheel behind the frog.
A protruding rib can easily pre- bly up to a light. If you can see there’s no more light, you’re done. Turn that wheel until the iron
vent your iron from seating against light between the chipbreaker Finally, while you’re working protrudes from the mouth just a
the frog and make all sorts of trou- and iron, you need to stone the on the chipbreaker, it’s a good bit. Now hold the plane as shown
ble. Take a file to the rib. edge of the chipbreaker. idea to stone the top of the curved in the photo below and move the
You also want to make sure
that the base casting isn’t inter-
fering with the mating of the iron
and frog. If your frog is set too far
back, the blade will rest against
the base casting and some point
at the back of your frog. The re-
sult will be chatter. So move the
frog forward a bit.
Quick Chipbreaker Fix

Another oft-neglected part of the This is what your shavings should look
plane is the chipbreaker. There like when your plane is properly set up
are two common problems with for smoothing. This is the perfect setting
for removing saw marks from the edge
this part. First, it doesn’t mate
of a board or smoothing a board before
tightly with the cutting face of finishing. If you want to hog off more
the iron. And second, it doesn’t wood in a hurry, advance the blade just
have any “spring” to it. Luckily, a little more.
both are simple to fix.
If you screw the chipbreaker
Hold the plane upside down and
to the iron and the chipbreaker look at it head on as you tweak
doesn’t have to bend even a lit- the lateral adjustment lever. When the
tle, that’s a problem. If the chip- cutting edge and sole are parallel,
breaker bends so much that the back the iron out and go to work.

fit between the chipbreaker and
the iron. If it’s not airtight, chips
will bunch up there.
If the plane seems to cut in-
consistently — that is, it cuts in
some places on a board but not in
others, you need to check two
things. First, the board might be
twisted, so you’re only able to
plane the high spots. Second, your
lateral adjustment might be out
With your jack plane set up for smoothing, you can of wack. Try adjusting the lever
easily trim fitted drawers to a perfect flush fit. If you this way and that a bit.
have to plane the end grain of the drawer front and the Using machinery to trim inset doors so you have a perfect 1⁄ 16" gap
Finally, just keep at it. Start
grain direction of the sides dictates that the drawer all around is a real skill because it’s easy to go too far. With a jack
front is at the end of your cut, be sure to clamp a back- plane and the Veritas jointer fence, you can sneak up on the perfect working with some pine 2 x 4s,
up block to the drawer front. This will help prevent you fit. This method also removes any milling marks from your doors’ which is a forgiving wood that
from blowing chunks out of your drawer front. edges, so you don’t have to sand the edges once the door fits. begs to be planed. Then try some
poplar, which gives up wispy shav-
lateral adjustment lever until you even on both the front knob and assembly tight enough to keep ings easily. Then move on to oak,
can see that the cutting edge and rear handle. As you finish the cut, everything in place? Have you maple and cherry. With practice,
sole are parallel. Now, without most of the downward pressure checked for backlash? all your common cabinet woods
touching the lateral adjustment should be on the rear handle. This Another common problem is will do as you please.
lever, retract the iron so it’s al- takes a bit of practice to master, shavings choking the mouth. And when you’re ready to be
most protruding from the sole. but it’s worth it because your boards Check the location of the frog. If humbled again, move on to the
Get a piece of scrap wood. Try will remain true as a result. it’s too far forward for the cut you’re exotic woods. That’s a bit like
something easy at first, like poplar. After your first stroke, advance making, the shavings will bunch teaching yourself to steer the QE
Just like with your woodworking the iron in tiny increments until up in the mouth. Next, check the II, and that’s another story. PW
machines, you need to read the the plane starts to cut. If the plane
grain direction on a board when seems to be cutting on one side
deciding which direction to plane. only, you need to tweak the lat-
You want to plane with the grain. eral adjustment lever left or right.
The wood fibers will likely tear Just like with a ham radio, it’s all
out if you plane against the grain. about small adjustments. In a per-
Turn the iron adjustment knob fect world, the shavings should be
just a bit to advance the iron. It’s the width of the blade (2"), about
important to note that you should .001" to .002" thick and fluffy.
always adjust the iron by increasing You’ll also know if you’re in
the depth of cut. This avoids what the ballpark by the sound the plane
is called “backlash.” If you retract makes while it’s cutting. When
the blade and then start cutting, things are going well, it sounds
the blade can back up during use like “swish.” When your cut is too
because there is slack in the ad- heavy, the sound will be lower and
justment mechanism. have a grinding quality. The Veritas jointer fence is a must-have
Push the plane over the board SUPPLIES accessory for me. In fact, it’s on my jack
plane more than it’s off. This accessory
and see what happens. How you Troubleshooting Lee Valley Tools really shines when it comes to removing
hold and push the plane is im- Lots of things can go wrong for 800-871-8158 machinery marks from the edges of your
Veritas Jointer Fence, boards. With the fence attached to a
portant. Skew the body of the the beginner, so here are some
item # 05P30.01, $28.95 well-tuned plane, you’ll produce shim-
plane about 5° left or right as you things to think about. If the plane
Silicon carbide grit, 90x, mering straight edges that are ready for
push it forward; this will almost chatters or skips across the work,
item # 05M24.01, $3.95 finishing. No more edges rounded by
always improve your cut. When look for something loose. Is the your sander, and no more toiling over
you begin the cut, keep most of frog screwed tightly to the base? Silicon carbide grit, set of five grits, the edges with a sanding block.
the downward pressure on the How about the iron? Is it seated item # 05M01.01, $12.95
front knob. In the middle of the correctly on the frog? Is the screw Glass lapping plate, item #
cut, keep the downward pressure that comes up through the iron 05M20.12, $8.95
www.popwood.com 53
Materials: Not
T
hough all the jack planes view are cast using grey iron. the most expensive in our test.
in this review look basi- Just a Pretty Knob There’s nothing wrong with grey Another important difference
cally the same — they’re More expensive planes are gen- iron, but it is brittle and will crack between Lie-Nielsen’s planes and
all based on Leonard Bailey’s 19th- erally made using better materi- or break when dropped from, oh, the others is the cutting iron. Lie-
century designs — there are fun- als. For example, the cutting iron about bench height. Ductile iron, Nielsen’s A-2 steel iron has been
damental differences that sepa- will be thicker and properly heat- which is used by Lie-Nielsen only, cryogenically treated, which means
rate a $40 plane from a $300 one. treated. Parts that are plastic on is about as strong as cast steel. A you will have to sharpen it less.
Like all tools, it comes down one plane will be brass or even Lie-Nielsen plane should be safe
to three things: bronze on another. from even sledgehammers. That Manufacturing
• The design of the tool Except for the Lie-Nielsen, strength comes at a cost, how- What really separates the inex-
• The materials used all of the plane bodies in this re- ever; Lie-Nielsen’s jack plane is pensive tools from the expensive
• The quality of the
manufacturing process
Design: Thanks Leonard

Two of Bailey’s patented ideas
show up on most of these planes.
The way you adjust the depth
of the cut on all these planes has
remained basically unchanged
since Bailey patented his idea in
1867. All the planes but the
Record also use Bailey’s idea for
securing the lever cap. ANANT CLIFTON LIE-NIELSEN
However, there are significant This India-manufactured tool has its The toughest skirmish in our test was At $300, you’re probably wondering if
differences in design among these followers, and it’s no wonder. You can when we pitted the Clifton against the this tool is intended for collectors or
tools. Two of these planes — the purchase a complete set of seven Anant Lie-Nielsen. Both are based on Stanley’s users. While I know of a few people who
Clifton and the Lie-Nielsen — planes for $4 more than a single Lie- long-discontinued Bed Rock model, and collect these tools, the Lie-Nielsen was
Nielsen jack plane. Of course, the real both excel on nearly every front. The designed for hard use and will earn its
have a superior way of securing question is: Should you? The sole was biggest disappointment with the Clifton keep in your shop. Of all the planes in
the frog to the base. Commonly remarkably flat on the Anant, second came with the sole. It needed a lot more our test, the Lie-Nielsen required the
called “Bed Rock”-style frogs, only to the Lie-Nielsen. But the iron work than the Lie-Nielsen’s — in fact, least fettling. The sole was in exception-
these were patented in 1895 and needed a lot of work to be serviceable. the largest gap we could find between al shape out of the box (it took a lot of
were used on Stanley’s premium Fine-tuning the plane to take a nice the sole and a straightedge was more searching to find any gap between the
smoothing cut proved tricky. The than three times bigger than the gap sole and straightedge). The blade was in
bench planes. Unlike other Bailey- adjustment knob had to be spun more we found on the Lie-Nielsen. That said, perfect shape and ready for a light
style planes, Bed Rock planes than three times before the iron would we’ve set up three other Clifton bench honing. And all of the parts mated
have a large machined area where advance or retract — more than any planes that had soles that were much perfectly. In use, the Lie-Nielsen is at the
the frog mates with the base. other plane in our test. Also, the adjust- flatter than this one. Once fettled, the top of the heap. Everything moved
Depending on the brand, Bed ment knob had sharp edges that Clifton is a real champ at the bench. It smoothly and the plane was taking
needed to be sanded down before it has excellent heft and feel, and the long, wide and wispy shavings from a
Rock frogs have three to five times would be comfortable. We give the adjustment knob is responsive to your board with only slight adjustments. The
as much contact between the frog Anant points for wooden handles, but slightest whim. The Bubinga handles cherry handles are beautiful and com-
and base compared to standard they were lumpy and poorly finished. are comfortable in use and attractive fortable. The Lie-Nielsen is a combina-
Bailey planes. Without a doubt, You can easily refinish the handles for a when at rest. If you cannot quite swing tion of excellent manufacturing and
this reduces chatter. The Bed custom fit. In all, the Anant did better the cash for a Lie-Nielsen, then you premium materials (including indestruc-
than expected, though we found the should definitely purchase a Clifton. For tible ductile iron and rustproof bronze).
Rock frogs also allow you to move vintage and premium-priced planes a list of dealers, contact Robert Larson For these reasons, it is a lifetime tool.
the frog forward and back easily outmatched it. Available from at 800-356-2195 or www.rlarson.com. Available from Lie-Nielsen at 800-327-
without disassembling the plane. Woodworker’s Supply at 800-645-9292. 2520 or www.lie-nielsen.com.

by Christopher Schwarz
Comments or questions? Contact Chris at
513-531-2690 ext. 407 or [email protected].
ones is the care taken to fit the edge that’s 90°. And if the sole a straightedge across the sole and wood. After lapping the soles,
parts into a tool that is easily isn’t ground reasonably flat, or if measuring the low spots using a frogs and irons flat, we set up these
set up and adjusted. This truly is it warps because it wasn’t prop- feeler gauge. We checked the flat- planes for use. All of the editors
the “fit” in fit and finish. erly stress-relieved, you don’t have ness of each frog face by flatten- tried the planes on a variety of
If a frog doesn’t mate well with an inexpensive plane in your ing them on a diamond-impreg- hardwoods, softwoods and ex-
the body casting, you’re in for a hands, you have an expensive an- nated sharpening stone and check- otics. To test the durability of the
world of hurt. The only thing chor for a bass boat. ing our progress. We also checked iron’s edge, we used each plane
you’re going to make is chatter As a result, one of our primary the cutting irons in a similar way on an exceedingly nasty piece of
marks. If the sides of the plane concerns was how all the parts by flattening the irons’ cutting purpleheart and then observed
aren’t ground at 90° to the sole, worked together. We checked faces on the diamond stone. the cutting edge to see how dull
you’ll never be able to shoot an each sole for flatness by placing At last it was time to cut some it had become.
Best Value
RECORD SHOP FOX STANLEY TYPE 11 STANLEY 12-205L

We were dismayed by the poor fit and The latest entry to the world of jack This flea-market special really held its Stanley makes a “contractor grade”
finish on the test model we purchased. planes comes from China with an own against its shiny new cousins. We version of this tool with a few more
One side wing was poorly ground and attractive price tag. While this tool has restored four of these vintage planes niceties (a frog adjustment screw, brass
the back of the iron was completely and some things going for it (such as an and found that they all needed as much fittings and more machined areas
weirdly discolored. The sole was in oversized adjustment knob and half- work as a mid-priced new tool. They between the frog and body casting).
average shape. However, this plane has decent blade) it struggled on some also needed a new iron. Spend the extra We’ve tested that version, too, and if
got it where it counts. I like the cap that other fronts. Most notably, the chip- $30 to buy an aftermarket Hock iron you buy a new Stanley jack plane, it’s
uses a screw instead of a lever to secure breaker was entirely too springy and (888-282-5233) or one from another the one to buy. The 12-205L has a
the iron assembly, which is the mecha- bent the iron when engaged. Once we manufacturer. You will be amazed at the plastic knob for adjusting the iron that’s
nism on all the other planes in our test. hammered out a good deal of the difference it makes. Once your plane is difficult to use; and getting the chip-
The shape of the handles is nice, though spring in the chipbreaker, things started set up (expect a long afternoon of breaker, lever cap and cap iron screw all
the plastic gets slippery after a few to work better. Like the Stanley 12- work), we think you’ll be pleased. The working together takes some intense
minutes of hard use. All the adjustments 205L, the Shop Fox was difficult to tune rosewood handles are a pleasure to fiddling. If the screw is too loose, the
were smooth, and the Record was easy initially. If the cap iron screw was even hold. Iron adjustment is smooth plane will chatter on your work. If the
to get set up and cutting. The fact that slightly overtightened, the blade would (though we’ve all found the blade screw is too tight, the iron won’t move
there was no frog adjustment screw at refuse to advance or retract. If you adjustment knob to be a little on the when you turn the blade adjustment
the rear makes adjusting the frog a loosened the screw, you would quickly small side). Our only caution in buying knob. Speaking of that knob, you need
tricky matter, but this function isn’t as run into chatter problems. The handles one is you have to keep a sharp eye for to turn it two complete revolutions
important as it is on a smoothing plane. are painted wood, which is better than cracked or rewelded castings, and soles before it will advance or retract the
If this plane is on your shopping list, we plastic, but the front knob was a bit too that are warped or bent because they blade. The contractor version is more on
recommend you examine it before you small for average-sized hands. All in all, were dropped while in service. If you’re par with the Record in performance and
buy, or be ready to send it back to the we think you might want to wait a bit a scrounger and are willing to do a little ease of use. If you buy a new English-
cataloger if the plane doesn’t meet your for the manufacturers to work the bugs work on your plane, we recommend the made Stanley for fine woodworking,
personal expectations. Available from out of this one before you buy it. Stanley Type 11 as a best buy. Available spend a few extra dollars to get the
Garrett Wade at 800-221-2942 or Available from Grizzly at 800-523-4777 at flea markets and www.ebay.com. upgraded version. Available from
www.garrettwade.com. or www.grizzly.com. Amazon at www.amazon.com.
www.popwood.com 55
ANANT CLIFTON LIE-NIELSEN RECORD SHOP FOX STANLEY STANLEY
TYPE 11 12-205L
Street price 40 200 300 70 44 8 to 40 47
MATERIALS
Base grey iron grey iron ductile iron grey iron grey iron grey iron grey iron
Frog grey iron grey iron bronze grey iron grey iron grey iron grey iron
Handles wood bubinga cherry plastic wood rosewood plastic
Adjustment knob steel brass bronze brass brass brass plastic
BLADE/FROG ASSEMBLY
Thickness of blade (in.) .079 .118 .115 .091 .076 .078 .079
Thickness of chipbreaker (in.) .078 .123 .068 .072 .075 .069 .074
Fine frog adjustment? yes yes/Bed Rock yes/Bed Rock no yes yes no
Machined area* (sq. in.) 3.07 10.02 9.15 1.59 1.78 2.76 0
Initial blade face flatness (1-5) 2 5 5 3 4 2 5
Initial chipbreaker alignment (1-5) 2 5 5 3 2 3 3
OVERALL STATS
Weight (lbs.) 4 lbs. 6 oz. 5 lbs. 13 oz. 5 lbs. 5 oz. 5 lbs. 7 oz. 5 lbs. 4 oz. 4 lbs. 6 oz. 4 lbs. 7 oz.
Fit & finish (1-5) 2 5 5 3.3 2.6 varies 2
Initial sole flatness (1-5) 4 3 5 3 2 3 3
Largest gap in sole (in.) .002 .005 .0015 .004 .014 .005† .005
Sides square to sole?** .006/.007 square square .007/.010 .007/.008 .007† .005/.006
Comfort of handles (1-5) 2 5 5 3.7 3 4 2.3
KEY
Ratings are based on a 1-5 scale with “1” being “poor” and “5” being “excellent.” *The “machined area” is the amount of cast iron that was machined between the frog and the base casting.
This number does not take into account holes bored into the machined areas. ** This measurement is the gap on each wing beneath an engineer’s square. For those planes that were not
ground square to the sides, these gaps translated to between 1⁄ 4° to 1⁄ 2° off of 90°. † This measurement is an average of four Type 11 planes tested.
I think it’s generally fair to say The Clifton was in the next you turn the adjustment knob. $50 all told and end up with an
you get what you pay for when best shape. Its only flaw lay in the You’ve got to find the sweet spot. outstanding tool.
it comes to jack planes. But it’s sole, which required a lot more If nothing works, look to the The second path is with the
not fair to say that the inexpen- work than I expected. This could chipbreaker as the culprit. If it’s premium planes. If you’ve never
sive planes were universally bad. be an anomaly with the tool in too springy, it will bend the iron, used a Lie-Nielsen or a Clifton,
It’s more accurate to say that the our test, however. The other three which forces you to really torque you’re in for a real shock. There
manufacturing was inconsistent Clifton planes I’ve set up (a #3, down that cap iron screw. Don’t is an astonishing difference be-
with the lower-priced tools. For #4 and #7) had soles that were in be afraid to bend the chipbreak- tween these planes and the less-
example, the sole of the Anant better shape. er until you get a tight fit between expensive tools. Once you’ve used
was outstanding, but the iron re- The rest of the planes required the chipbreaker and iron. one of these planes, you’ll never
quired an unacceptable amount several long hours of work before However, after you bend the chip- want to go back.
of work (that is, I was looking they’d ever touch a board. breaker, make sure the iron isn’t It’s our opinion that the Lie-
longingly at my belt sander when On the inexpensive planes, bending under the pressure. Nielsen edges out the Clifton
flattening the frustrating cutting the area that requires most of your thanks to its superior materials
face). On the Shop Fox plane, the attention is, of course, the frog Conclusion: Real Cheap (ductile iron, bronze and the cryo-
situation was reversed. The sole — particularly where all those or Real Expensive genically treated A2 iron) and the
was quite warped (I tried the belt parts sandwich together. This is In the end, we came to the con- unerring consistency of its man-
sander on this one), but the iron the area where most of the inex- clusion that there are two paths ufacture. However, if $300 is just
was in nice shape. Of all the planes, pensive planes ran into trouble. to follow. For those on a budg- too much to spend, you’ll be well
the one that required the least The cap iron screw is what holds et, we recommend you buy a vin- served by the less expensive but
setup was the Lie-Nielsen. From everything down. If it’s too loose, tage Stanley Type 11 plane, pur- impressive Clifton plane. PW
the sole to the frog to the iron, your plane will chatter like a pair chase an aftermarket Hock iron
everything mated perfectly and of wind-up teeth. If it’s too tight, and spend a day in the shop tun-
was as flat as you could want. the iron will refuse to budge when ing everything. You’ll spend about

BUILDING A CHILD’S
Double Dulcimer
This project is simple enough to build with your kids,
and nice enough that you’ll want to make one for yourself, too.
T
he Appalachian dul- Designed for fun and rugged service, Debi
cimer fascinates me, first, and John’s instrument turned out to be one of
because its plaintive music is a link my easiest and most satisfying projects.
to earlier times, and second, because it is so easy
to build and play. Ten-year-old twins of a friend Construct the Sound Box
gave me the excuse I needed to build my fourth The straight sides of this design make this part
dulcimer — this time an unusual double, or “court- easy. Glue the side and end pieces to the bottom
ing” dulcimer, to be played by two people at once. to form a shallow, open-topped box. From 1⁄ 4"
by Claude Crowley
Claude Crowley builds dulcimers and the occasional Kentucky long rifle in Ft. Worth, Texas
www.popwood.com 57
All patterns shown
Tuning
head half-scale
square stock, make two light, open
braces, like the ribs in an airplane’s
Tuner
wing, 1⁄4" x 13⁄4" x 15". Glue them
across the bottom, one-third of
1/2" stock the way from each end. Leave the
top open for now.
0" Outline of
brace
1/2"
Bridge below Dueling Fretbars

#1 Cut two fretbar blanks 29" long.
Before you build your fretbars,
however, decide if your instru-
3 1/16" 1 ment will be for left- or right-
handed players. (More on that
later.) Using a square, pencil a
line across the fretbar about 1⁄ 2"
from one end. Bridge No. 1 (called
5 13/16" 2
a “nut” by professional instru-
7 1/16" 3 Bevel in 12º ment builders) will go here. This
is the tuning head end.
Tuning head plan Physics dictate that the play-
ing length of the strings must be
9 5/16" 4 28" — so exactly 28" from bridge
1/2" stock No.1, make a mark for bridge No.
2, at the tailpiece end.
Bevel in Lightly pencil each fret’s po-
11 3/8" 5 4.5º
28" Playing length
sition following the fretbar lay-

12 5/16" 6 out diagram at left.
29" Fretbar
3/16"
A quick word about the fret
13 Extra
at 133⁄ 16". Some people consider
14" 7
this fret unnecessary. I can’t re-
member where I learned about
15 9/16" 8 Bevel out 22.5º adding this extra fret. Many old
dulcimers don’t have it — but I
Tuning head know from experience that many
16 7/8" 9 brace plan tunes can’t be played without it.
17 1/2" 10
Before installing the frets, cut
18 11/16" 11 out the picking hollow using a
band saw or coping saw. Make
19 11/16" 12 13/8" stock it about 33⁄ 4" long, starting 13⁄ 8"
20 1/8" 13 from the tailpiece end.
21" 14 Use 3⁄ 64" brass rods for mak-
21 3/4" ing the frets. Starting with pieces
15
slightly more than 2" long, bend
22 7/16" 16 1⁄
2" legs down from each end with
Picking hollow
22 3/4" 17
square-nosed pliers. After mak-
ing each bend, use the pliers as a
Tailpiece profile mini anvil and lightly hammer
the staple corners square. With
3 3/4"
a little practice, you’ll soon be

Bridge hammering out perfect little cro-
#2 quet wickets, 1" wide, with 1⁄ 2"-
1/2"
1 3/8"
long vertical legs. Make 18 for

each fretbar. Now draw two par-
Tailpiece Heart cutout plan allel lines lengthwise on the fret-

DOUBLE DULCIMER
NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) M AT E R I A L
T W L
❏ 2 Soundbox sides 1⁄
4 13⁄ 4 29 Birch ply
❏ 2 Soundbox ends 1⁄
4 13⁄ 4 15 Birch ply
❏ 2 Soundbox top, bot. 1⁄
8 16 291⁄ 2 Birch ply
❏ 4 Long rib brace 1⁄
4
1⁄
4 15 Hardwood
❏ 8 Short rib brace 1⁄
4
1⁄
4 11⁄ 4 Hardwood
❏ 2 Fretboards 5⁄
8 13⁄ 8 29 Hardwood
❏ 2 Tuning heads 1⁄
2 23⁄ 4 53⁄ 4 Hardwood
❏ 2 Tuning head braces 1⁄
2 2 31⁄ 4 Hardwood
❏ 2 Tailpieces 3⁄
4 13⁄ 8 31⁄ 8 Hardwood
❏ 4 Bridges 1⁄
8
3⁄
8 13⁄ 8 Dense wood
1⁄
enough to hold the strings slight- 8" thick for this critical part. I
ly above the frets. Seat and glue used 1⁄ 8"-thick birch plywood.
bridge No. 1 at your mark on the The soundboard must have
This is what your frets will look like after the ends are bent down for insertion into tuning head end. Don’t glue bridge holes to let the music out. No one
the fretboard. No. 2. It is held in place by string hole shape works better than an-
tension, and it can be adjusted other, so take your choice of hearts,
bars to align the frets, 3⁄ 16" from The “twin” sting reinforces the slightly by sliding if needed. scrolls, diamonds, stars or just
each edge. Drill pilot holes where volume of the melody and is fret- plain circles.
the fret lines and alignment lines ted and strummed with its sibling A Sound Soundboard
cross and tap in the staples. Use as a single string. A soundboard that’s too thick Heads and Tailpieces
a straightedge to get them level For the bridges, use a bit of will give the instrument a “dead” The tailpieces anchor the strings
with each other. hardwood about double the size sound. One that’s too thin can on the end opposite the tuning
Traditionally, the dulcimer is of a kitchen match, or a little be punched or damaged during head. The shape is arbitrary. Create
a three-stringed instrument. When more. Cut four string notches in normal use. Heavy woods, such a design that suits you or use mine
a fourth string is added, as I have the bridges at 3⁄ 8", 1⁄ 2", 13⁄ 16" and as oak or hickory, will penalize on the previous page.
done, the extra string is placed 11⁄ 16" from the end that will be sound quality. Select a springy, The tuning heads slope down
about 1⁄ 8" from the third string. closest to the player, just deep responsive piece of wood about slightly in relation to the fret-
29 1/2"
29" 1 3/4"
1/8" 1/8"
1/4"
Braces -
4"
Fretbar - 1/4"x1/4"
5"
see detail plan stock

1 3/8"
long rib brace Heart cutout

4 3/4"
16"
15"
15"
5"
1 3/8"
1" o.d. hole

5"
4"
1/4"
1/4" overhang typical

Soundbox plan Soundbox section
www.popwood.com 59
the story at right that shows you the inside of the bottom where
how to play the dulcimer. it can be read through the sound-
For you, this is decision time. board holes.
Most people are right-handed, so For final assembly, apply glue
if you want to please most peo- on the edges of the soundbox and
ple, make your fretbars exactly internal braces, and stick on the
alike, but face them in opposite soundboard. If you have plenty
directions on the soundboard. As of clamps, that’s great. I didn’t,
the performers play the instru- and placed the dulcimer on the
ment, facing each other, the dul- garage floor and used weights to
cimer’s picking hollows will be get a good bond. I finished the
to each person’s right. instrument with a light stain and
Glue the fretbars directly on a couple of coats of low-gloss
the soundboard, 4" from the sides. polyurethane varnish. Be careful
Attach the tuning heads and while staining and varnishing
tailpieces to the open-top sound- around the sound holes to keep
box with glue and screws at the drips off your inside label. After
precise location where the ends the varnish is dry, screw the me-
In this photo, you can see how the ribs look before you add the soundboard. This
particular dulcimer was built to be played by a right-handed person on one side and
of the fretbars will butt against chanical tuning keys onto the
a left-handed person on the other. them on the completed piece. tuning heads.
Reinforce these points inside with
bar. Drill them as shown to ac- Final Touches triangular blocks. Stringing, Tuning
commodate the four mechani- I assumed that my young friends Now temporarily place the and Playing
cal tuners. Because tuner shafts were both right-handed, and made soundboard on the soundbox. Follow these instructions for each
vary in diameter from manufac- the two fretbars alike, to point in Draw a line across each tailpiece side of the dulcimer:
turer to manufacturer, size the opposite directions on the fin- where the top of the fretbar strikes Stringing: Thread the three
holes to accommodate your tuners ished box so the children could it. Along this line, drill four down- thinner strings (these are all .01"
(see the supplies box for a good play the instrument while facing ward-angling string holes 1⁄4" apart thick, the high “E” string on a
source). Shape and glue braces each other. Fortunately, I learned with an 1⁄ 8" bit. Make this hole guitar) through the tailpiece, be-
to the tuning heads. Because that John is left-handed, and Debi about 1⁄ 8" deep. Then, with your ginning with the holes closest to
of the angles involved, the tun- is right-handed, so I made a new smallest drill bit, drill into the the player. String the large string
ing heads are a bit tricky. Take left-handed fretbar, which a south- countersink and through the dul- (.02" thick, or the “B” string on
your time. Don’t install the me- paw can play comfortably. That’s cimer’s tailpiece. a guitar) through the last hole
chanical tuners yet. why the fretbars face the same Create a small label with your (farthest from the player). Fasten
way on the instrument shown in name and the date. Glue it on the strings to the appropriate posts
Here you can see the graceful curve of the tailpiece and the
countersunk holes for the strings. I screwed the tailpiece and
the tuning head braces through the sound box and into a
triangular brace block, which you can see above.

Increase
on the tuning heads, and seat
Workshop
them in the bridge notches. Efficiency!
Now it’s time to tune the in-
strument. Tighten or loosen the
large string until the plucked
sound matches “middle C” on a
piano. Now hold the large string
down at the fourth fret from the
tuning head and tune the other
three strings to this note. The re-
sult will be a harmonious bing-
bing- bing-bong. Check with your
library for other tuning styles.
If your frets are correctly placed,
This newly-revised detailed instruction book by
the sound will be pleasing. If it Bill Stankus pools the knowledge and expert
sounds discordant with the strings advice of hundreds of woodworkers into one
in tune, don’t hesitate to fiddle TIPS ON PLAYING THE DULCIMER step-by-step guidebook to help you create the
with the tuning of the two strings AND A SONG TO TRY safest and most efficient workshop possible.
furthest from you.
Anyone who has had musical training can play a dulcimer at once. More than 100 color photographs and a wide
John and Debi were picking Press down the two strings closest to you (the melody strings) with range of floor plans will help you choose the
out “The Bear Went Over the a stick about the size of a pencil, and slide it back and forth over arrangement that best fits your workshop—
Mountain,” after only a few min- those strings to select the notes. You strum all four strings, but two whether it’s in a closet, basement or garage.And
utes of instruction — it’s that easy. are drones, and just hum along with the melody strings. The result- detailed instructions with a focus on safety take
Press down the pair of strings clos- ing mix is a quaint, romantic buzz (almost a purr). the guesswork out of planning your perfect shop.
Musically illiterate people, like me, can play, too, using the
est to you (the melody strings) tablature system. This simply means playing by number. Here’s how Order your copy of How to Design and Build Your
with a length of dowel about the to do it: Ideal Woodshop today!
size of a pencil. Slide the dowel Stick a strip of Scotch Removable Magic Tape on the sound- #70522-K/$27.99/128p/ pb/275 color images
back and forth on the fretbar over board alongside the fretbar. This will not damage the finish. If you
don’t have any Scotch Removable Magic Tape, get some. It has Available at your favorite bookseller or directly
the two strings closest to you to
many practical uses around the shop. from the publisher using the Order Form below.
select the notes desired as you Pencil a number for each fret on the tape, 1 through 18, starting
strum with a soft pick down in ORDER FORM
at the end with the widest fret spacing. Now you’re ready to play.
the picking hollow. The dulcimer You don’t have to understand notes, clefs, octaves or any of that YES! Please send me ____ copy(ies) of
comes to life with a quaint, ro- pesky stuff. Just press down on the melody string just to the left of How to Design and Build Your Ideal Woodshop
the numbered fret to get the correct note. (#70522-K) $27.99 each
mantic buzz — almost a purr —
Here is a numbered tune for you to start with: SUBTOTAL: $ __________
straight from the hills and coves
In the U.S.please add $3.95 shipping and handling for the first book,
of Appalachia. When you and The Bear Went Over the Mountain $1.95 for each additional book.In Ohio and New York, please add
a friend or family member per- applicable state tax. In Canada, add US$5.00 shipping and handling for
the first book, US$3.00 for each additional book, and 7% GST. Payment
form together on this unusual dul- 5 5 5 5 4 5 6 5 in U.S.funds must accompany order.
cimer, you’ll be the hit of any The bear went ov-er the moun-tain,
TOTAL: $ __________
gathering. PW ■ Check or money order enclosed -or-
5 4 4 4 3 4 5 3
The bear went ov-er the moun-tain, ■ Charge my ■ VISA ■ MC ■ AmEx
Acct.#______________________________
5 5 5 5 4 5 6 9 Expiration date ________________________
The bear went ov-er the moun-tain,
SUPPLIES Signature____________________________
Name______________________________
You can order a hardware kit for this 9 8 8 6 5 4 3
To see what he could see. Address_____________________________
project that includes the eight tuners
and strings you need for $25 plus City________________________________
UPS shipping charges. Be sure to John and Debi were picking this out after only a few minutes of State/Prov._____________ ZIP/PC__________
mention if the dulcimer will be for instruction—it’s that easy. Get musical friends to fill in the numbers
Send to: Popular Woodworking Books
right- or left-handed players. for some simple, familiar tunes, or do it yourself by experimentation. PO Box 9274
Contact: Bill Foley, German Village After some practice with these, you will find that you can pick out Central Islip, NY 11722-9274
Music Haus, 350 S. Grant Ave., tunes without the numbers. At that point, you’ve joined the fellow- ZAC02WW
Columbus, OH 43215, 614-228-8467 ship of folk musicians, and are ready to find a buddy and start
rehearsing the old Appalachian ballads on your double dulcimer. For more information or
12-9 PM EST, Monday-Saturday.
to order by Credit Card visit
www.popularwoodworking.com/store/books
or call toll free 1-800-221-5831
www.popwood.com 61
Shaker
Storage Cabinet
Maximize storage space in any cabinet Face Frame First
with a couple of simple tricks. This seems backwards, I know, but begin con-
struction by building the face frame. The size of the
case and doors are determined by your face frame,
so it’s clearly the place to begin.
he Shakers always had a knack for packing a When ripping out the material for the face frame
T lot of storage into a small space and making

it look good. The three-sided built-in in the
Center family residence at Pleasant Hill, Ky., is a
stiles, cut them each about 1⁄ 16" wider than the di-
mension called for in the cutting list. This will make
your face frame hang over the edge of the case sides.
prime example. You’ve probably seen a photo of it. Once the face frame is attached, you can trim it
It’s the impressive cherry unit that’s in an attic with flush for a perfect fit.
a skylight that illuminates all 45 drawers. I use mortise-and-tenon joinery to build both
It is in that spirit that I designed this two-door the face frames and doors. The tenons are 3⁄ 8" thick
cabinet for a client in Ohio. The family needed to and 1" long, and I usually cut a 3⁄ 8" to 1⁄ 2" shoul-
store an enormous number of board games and toys der on the edges. Be sure to cut your mortises 11⁄ 16"
in a small space. The doors had to hide everything. deep so your tenons don’t bottom out. When every-
thing fits, put glue in the mortises, clamp the frame
How to Pack Lots of Stuff Into Small Spaces and allow the glue to cure.
Organizing clutter is an interesting problem that
you also might face as you design storage in your Doors are Second
home or case pieces. Here’s what I did: Behind the Next, build the doors. It’s much easier to fit the doors
left door I put a series of five 3⁄ 4"-thick adjustable into your face frame before it’s attached to the case.
solid-wood shelves. These would handle the heav- Build the doors much like you did your face frame
ier games and books. Behind the right door is a se- by using mortise-and-tenon joints. The only differ-
ries of 1⁄ 4"-thick tempered Masonite shelves. These ence is that you need to cut a 3⁄ 8" x 3⁄ 8" groove in the
10 shelves slide in and out of 1⁄ 4" x 1⁄ 4" dados. rails and stiles to hold the door panels.
The Masonite won’t hold a lot of weight, but I cut my grooves along the entire length of the
it’s just right for storing lightweight objects. Think stiles; as a result, I cut my tenons with a “haunch”
home office, and you’ll know what I mean. Masonite to fill in that extra space on the ends of the stiles.
(sometimes called “hardboard”) shelves are per- The panels are flat on the front, and beveled on the
fect for storing letterhead, envelopes, CDs and any backside so they fit in the grooves in the rails and
other paper goods in an office. The other challenge stiles. I cut that bevel by setting my table saw blade
in this piece was getting the shelves, doors and face to 7° and slicing off a little of the backside of each
frame positioned so they didn’t interfere with door until the panels fit snug and without rattling.
one another. As you’ll see in the drawings, it Sand the panels up to your final grit (120 will be
took a few pieces of “blocking” to get everything fine for a painted piece) and assemble the doors.
to work in this cabinet. Sand the assembled doors and face frame and then
by Troy Sexton
Troy Sexton designs and builds custom furniture in Sunbury, Ohio, for his company, Sexton Classic American
Furniture. Troy is a contributing editor for Popular Woodworking.

www.popwood.com 63
SHAKER STORAGE CABINET
NO. L E T. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) M AT E R I A L
T W L
Face Frame
❏ 2 A Stiles 3⁄
4 21⁄ 2 511⁄ 4 Poplar
❏ 1 B Top rail* 3⁄
4 2 45 Poplar
❏ 1 C Bottom rail* 3⁄
4 51⁄ 2 45 Poplar
Doors
❏ 4 D Stiles 3⁄
4 21⁄ 2 433⁄ 4 Poplar
❏ 6 E Rails* 3⁄
4 21⁄ 2 181⁄ 2 Poplar
❏ 4 F Panels 5⁄
8 17 185⁄ 8 Poplar
Carcase
❏ 1 G Top 3⁄
4 19 50 Maple
❏ 2 H Sides 3⁄
4 171⁄ 4 511⁄ 4 Poplar
❏ 1 I Bottom 3⁄
4 163⁄ 4 47 Poplar
❏ 2 J Dividers 3⁄
4 161⁄ 4 451⁄ 2 Poplar
I’m not perfect, and neither are you. If ❏ 1 K Nailing strip 3⁄
4 11⁄ 2 461⁄ 2 Poplar
your face frame is exactly the width of ❏ 1 L Blocking 1 3⁄
4 21⁄ 4 451⁄ 2 Poplar
your case, it’s going to be difficult to ❏ 1 M Blocking 2 1⁄
2 13⁄ 4 451⁄ 2 Poplar
fasten it square. Make life easier by You can see the haunch on the tenons ❏ 5 N Adj. shelves 3⁄
4 161⁄ 4 225⁄ 8 Poplar
ripping your stiles 1⁄ 16" oversize in on the rail closest to the camera. When ❏ 10 O Masonite shelves 1⁄
4 161⁄ 4 201⁄ 4 Masonite
width. After you nail and glue the face it comes to fitting your panels, remem- ❏ 1 P Back 1⁄
2 47 511⁄ 4 Ply
frame to the case, use a flush-trimming ber to work tight in summer and loose
bit in your router to trim the face frame in winter. Panels of this size will shrink *= 1" tenon on both ends
flush with the side of the cabinet’s case. and contract noticeably.
peg the tenons if you like. I used there. Nail the bottom in place about the insides once you have two blocking pieces shown on
square pegs that I pounded into from the outside of the case. I use a plan. Begin by cutting the 1⁄ 4" the diagram in place. The block-
round holes. a finish nailer for this task. x 1⁄4" dados in the dividers. These ing does a couple things. First, it
Now put the nailing strip in are spaced 2" apart, and there are allows the Masonite shelves to
Finally, the Case place at the top of the case. The 21 of them. I used a dado stack in be slid in and out without hav-
The case goes together quickly diagrams show you where this my table saw and simply moved ing to swing the doors wide open.
thanks to my nail gun. Begin con- needs to be, but essentially it’s the fence 13⁄ 4" after each pass. Second, the thinner piece of block-
struction by cutting a 3⁄ 4"-wide flush with both the rabbets in the Now it’s time to add the di- ing fills in the gap between the
by 1⁄4"-deep dado in the side pieces sides and top of the case. Nail it viders to the case. Turn the case divider and face frame and leaves
for the bottom of the cabinet. I home. Glue and nail the face on its head. Cut a notch in each room for the hinges.
like to use a dado stack in my table frame to the case using brads. Trim divider so it will fit around the Now drill the holes in the left
saw for this operation. Now cut the face frame flush to the case. nailing strip. Get the divider right side of the case and the center di-
a 1⁄ 2" x 1⁄ 2" rabbet on the back where it needs to be and nail it vider for the adjustable solid-wood
edges of the sides to hold the ply- All the Insides in place through the bottom and shelves. I’m partial to 5 mm holes
wood back in place. Sand the in- There’s nothing complicated the nailing strip. Now nail the spaced 13⁄ 8" on center.
side of the case and get ready for
the first bit of assembly.
Put the case together on its
back. First put glue in the dados
in the sides and fit the bottom in
In addition to cutting this detail on the sides and front

(above), I also cut it on the bottom of the plywood back,
which gives it a finished look when the cabinet is viewed from
You could use a router and a straight bit down low or from a distance.
to make this cut as long as you had a
reliable way of guiding the router (such Once you nail the dividers in place through the bottom piece,
as an edge guide). I find a table saw is turn the case over on its feet and nail through the nailing strip
much faster for this operation. into the dividers (left).
64 POPULAR WOODWORKING
Elevation
48"
2 1/2" 2 1/2"
16 1/2"
Top right corner - exploded G
2 1/2"
2"
G
2 1/2"
B
18 1/8"
A F
K
P
43 3/4"
2 1/2"
51 1/4"
J E
18 1/8"
L D
2 1/2"
M
3"
C
A 3" 1"
Plan - top removed
47"
H
P
16 1/4"
K
17 1/4"
19"
I
L
1/2"
Outline of top
M
Mark the base cutouts on the the doors, nail in the back and
sides, front and plywood back of add the knobs.
the case using the diagrams as a I have no idea how the Shakers Elevation - face frame
guide. Use a jigsaw to make these would feel about seeing one of & doors removed
cuts and clean up your work with their cabinets filled with
22 7/8" 19 7/8"
sandpaper. “Parcheesi,” “Connect Four” and L
Cut your top to size. I used a “Uncle Wiggly” games. But I’m
piece of bird’s-eye maple. You sure at least they would approve
have a couple options for attaching of the efficient use of space. PW K
the top. You could use pocket
holes, figure-8 fasteners or wood- M
en cleats. No matter which way H J
you go, prepare the case for the H
top but don’t attach it. I like to SUPPLIES P
51 1/4"
glue the top to the front edge of

the case after finishing. Woodworker’s Supply O
800-645-9292
N
Finishing Amerock non-mortising hinges,
On the knobs, top and all the in- #891-749, $2.95 each
side pieces (except the Masonite), Horton Brasses I
I wiped on a light honey-colored 800-754-9127
5"
stain. Then I painted the case a

3"
Maple knobs, #WK-3, 11⁄ 2" diame-

dark red and added a topcoat of ter, call for pricing
lacquer to protect the paint. Hang 3" 1"
www.popwood.com 65
Knockdown
B O O KC A S E
Designed to travel, this slant-sided bookcase
was the perfect early-1900s answer
to buying furniture through the mail.
he Arts & Crafts movement was part Start construction by preparing the pan-
T of an interesting social change in

America — the advent of mail-order
purchases. Catalogs from Sears, Roebuck and
els for the sides and four shelves. If you aren’t
fortunate enough to have oak that’s wide
enough to make your sides using a single board,
Co. and Montgomery Ward were all the rage, glue up the shelves or sides using two boards,
and many companies took their cue and of- but make sure the joint falls in the center
fered their wares for sale through catalogs of the finished panel. This is less important
rather than set up expensive retail establish- on the shelves; but since the sides come to a
ments throughout the country. While it was peak at the center, the joint becomes obvi-
a great idea, it raised a difficult problem with ous if you’re off the mark. Also, you can cut
furniture. The majority of space in any piece the top and bottom shelves to length, but
of furniture is air. While air is very light, it’s leave the two center shelves long at this time.
also bulky and expensive to ship. So furniture When the through-tenons are cut and fit,
makers perfected a style of furniture that con- you can measure for the exact length of the
tinues today — knockdown furniture. Finished center shelves.
disassembled, the furniture could be shipped
flat, then assembled by the owner. Through- Critical Pencil Lines
tenons with tusks were the turn-of-the-20th- With the sides prepared, lay out the shelf lo-
century answer, while hidden cam-locking cations, mortise locations and the overall shape
hardware is the answer today. in pencil on one of them. To allow you to do
a minimum of angled or beveled cutting on
Slanted Construction the pieces, the shelves all fit into 3⁄ 4"-wide
This project is actually a very simple bookcase by 3⁄ 8"-deep dados cut at a 5° angle in the sides
made challenging by slanting the sides. Many using the table saw. Because of this, the lo-
of the knockdown bookcases had straight sides, cation of the shelves actually falls at an angle
but why do things the easy way? on the sides. A 1⁄ 16" difference in shelf height
By David Thiel
Questions or comments? You can contact David
at 513-531-2690 ext.255 or at [email protected].
www.popwood.com 67
After carefully laying out the shelf locations, use a dado stack (set at a 5° angle) and This simple scrap-wood jig made angled mortises a fairly simple task.
the saw’s miter gauge to cut the angled dados.
one way or the other won’t dra- can twist and bind against the on your materials to get as close Shaping up the Sides
matically affect the use of the blade and cause a kickback. Move to 5° as possible. The next step is to cut the sides
bookcase, but you must make sure the rip fence out of the way, mark The rest is fairly simple. Check to their “spade” shape. I used my
that the dados are cut at the same the sides and make the next cuts the offset on your router tem- band saw for most of this work,
locations on each side. with only the miter gauge fence. plate guide from the bit, and add but used a jigsaw to cut the radii
If you happen to have a slid- With the dados complete, swap this to the 3⁄ 4" x 2" dimension under the top shelf and the arch
ing table on your table saw, you’re the dado with a crosscut blade, for the mortise. Mark that size at the bottom. Cut a little wide
in great shape. Most people don’t, and bevel the bottom edge of each on the template and use a drill of your layout lines, then clamp
so the next best option to cut the side at that angle. and jigsaw to make a square hole. the sides together, aligning the
angled dados is to use your miter Clamp the template in place sides by the shelf grooves on the
gauge. If you don’t have a sub- Angled Mortising over the mortise locations and cut inside surface. Plane and sand the
stantial wooden fence attached The next step is the through-mor- your through-mortises using two sides to matching shapes.
to your gauge, now is a good time. tises. For these to work correct- or three depth settings. Depending
A fence that is 18" to 24" long ly, they also need to be cut at a 5° on the router bit you’re using, you Fitting the Through-Tenons
and about 3" high will work fine. angle, and they must fall direct- may want to use a backing board Now it’s time to fit things together.
You’ll need to determine which ly in the dados you just cut on the behind the side to reduce tear-out. Start by checking the fit of your
way to orient the sides on your saw. You could cut them by hand, I used a jigsaw and chisel to square shelves in the dados in the sides.
saw depending on the way the but the 5° angle is tricky to main- up the corners. Mine were a hair thick, so I was
arbor of your saw tilts. With some tain. You could also set up a mor-
of the cuts, the majority of the tiser to do the job, but I got a lit-
side will be supported by the miter tle smarter and came up with a
gauge, and you can use your rip router template.
fence to guide your cut. When the By using a piece of 1⁄ 2" Baltic
larger section of the side will be birch with a strip added beneath
between the blade and rip fence, one end, I made a router template
this is an unsafe cut. The board that would make cuts at a 5° angle.
It takes some rearranging of the
Detail of shelf joinery guide for the different cuts, but
5/8" 3/4" 5/8"
the results work rather well.
Careful layout lines are crit-
ical here. To make the 5° ramp,
Shelf tenon 1" I used a scrap piece of 1⁄ 2" mate-
1 1/2" rial for the back strip, nailed to
1/2"
the template 14" from the end.
1/2" 1/4"
Check this dimension carefully
With the sides clamped together and
Side mounted in my vise, shaping the sides
simply took some sanding and planing.

KNOCKDOWN BOOKCASE
NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) NOTES
T W L
❏ 2 Sides 3⁄
4 12 48*
❏ 1 Bottom shelf 3⁄
4 111⁄ 8 241⁄ 2 2" TBE
❏ 1 Top shelf 3⁄
4 10 193⁄ 8* 2" TBE
❏ 1 Third shelf 3⁄
4 97⁄ 8 19*
❏ 1 Second shelf 3⁄
4 811⁄ 16 17*
❏ 8 Tusks 3⁄
4
3⁄
4 31⁄ 2
* Oversized for fitting; TBE = tenon, both ends
A close look at the wedged through-tenons shows the recess behind the side that
able to run them down on the plan- case together — disassemble the allows the wedge to pull the sides tight.
er to make an almost-perfect fit. case and mark the 3⁄ 4 " x 3⁄ 4 "
Check the width of the bottom through-mortises on the shelf the tusks should seat with their the excess until I was happy with
shelf against the width of the sides tenons as shown in the diagrams. center at the shelf tenon. Fit the the depth of the color. I then top-
at the shelf location, now that the I used my mortising machine to tusks as necessary, and tap them coated the case with a couple of
sides are shaped. Rip the shelf to cut these holes. Another option into place to make the whole coats of lacquer.
size. Next, fit the shelf into the is to use a drill press to cut the case rigid. Now take it all apart The nicest thing about mov-
dado and, from the outside, mark mortises and then square up the one last time and sand every- ing this bookcase is that after you
the tenon location through the corners using a chisel. thing to 150 grit. knock out the eight tusks, every-
mortise on the end of the shelf. Reassemble the case, then cut For a finish, I used a simple thing fits in the trunk of a com-
Remove the shelf and mark off the the eight tusks. Appropriately, dark-colored gel stain, wiping off pact car. PW
2" length of each mortise, then
head for the band saw again. The 5" 5"
width of the tenons is the critical
cut. The shoulder of the tenons
should be neat, but that edge is 7"
buried in the side’s dados, so it 1 1 /2 " 1 1 /2 "
doesn’t have to be perfect. 2" 3" 2"
With the tenons cut for the 4 1 /4 "
15 3/8" shelf
3 /4 "
bottom shelf, fit the shelf and sides
together. You want a snug fit, but 3 /4 " 1" radius
not too loose and not too tight. 8 1 /4 " 3 /4 " x 3 /4 " x 3 1 / 2 " 7 /8 "
A chisel, file or rasp and some tusk, tapered to 3/8"
sanding should do the job. Take 16 7/8" shelf
3 /4 " 3 /4 "
your time and get it right.
With the bottom shelf fit, check
the dimensions on the top shelf,
mark the tenons and repeat the 10"
fitting process. When that task is
complete, fit the two center shelves 18 5/8" shelf
3 /4 " 3 /4 "
and slide them into position. These
shelves are designed to be left
loose, but if they slide a little more
than you like, a nail through the 11" 1 1 /2 " 1 1 /2 "
1 1 /2 " 2" 4 1/2" 2"
side into the center of the shelf
will make a permanent solution, 20 1/2" shelf
3 /4 " 3 /4 "
or you can drive a short wedge
into the joint under the shelf 3 /4 " x 3 /4 " x 3 1 /2 "
5" 1 1 /2 "
tusk, tapered to 3/8"
Illustration by Jim Stuard.
for a temporary fix.
Tusks and the Home Stretch Elevation 3 /4 " 2 1 /2 " 7" 2 1 /2 "
To hold the top and bottom 12"
shelves in place — and the whole
Profile
www.popwood.com 69
Mortising
Jig
Make quick, easy the unit with an aftermarket router fence such as the
Micro Fence (www.microfence.com) and set-up time is
and accurate mortises even faster. One downside to all router-cut mortises is the
round, rather than square, ends produced. The problem
is overcome most easily by rounding over the square cor-
with this jig and ners of the tenons using a file.
Once the mortise location is drawn on a part, you
your plunge router. secure your work in the jig using the built-in clamps. Lower
the router bit to the height of the part and adjust the
ost woodworking jigs fall into two categories: router fence to align with the mortise location. The
M Those you use once and then pitch, and those

you use over and over again. This mortising
jig falls into the latter group. And if longevity and amount
forward and backward travel of the router is quick-
ly limited by the jig’s adjustable stops on the top of
the jig’s side. Set the depth of plunge on the router
of use a jig gets is any indicator of value, consider this and you’re ready to cut your mortise. Remember to
jig worth its weight in gold. pull the router toward you when making cuts; this
More than 20 years ago I made a version of this jig as uses the rotation of the bit to hold the router fence
a companion to my then-new plunge router (shown in to the jig’s side.
the photo). The concept was shown in an early wood-
working book by The Taunton Press by venerable wood- Jig Construction
worker Tage Frid. Both the jig and the router continue to Building the jig is simple and should take an afternoon.
see service in my shop, although I made a new jig for this When done, you’ll be able to rout mortises for a set of
article and added a couple new features. table legs, for example, in less than 15 minutes, in-
Over the years, I’ve cut mortises by hand, with this cluding set-up time.
jig and using a variety of benchtop mortising machines. Buy your hardware before building the jig. It is eas-
I find one big advantage of router-cut mortises is the ier to drill the holes and install the barbed inserts in the
smooth wall of the mortise itself, which is certain to pro- side of the jig before assembly. These are placed in a 3⁄ 8"
duce a stronger glue joint than those made with a chisel hole that’s 2" deep on the top edge of the side.Take care
or mortising machine. The smooth surface is especially to drill in the center of the plywood. Next, drill out a 1⁄ 4"
advantageous given the cross-grain condition of typical hole in a length of 1⁄ 2" dowel that will both plug the hole
mortise-and-tenon joints. The jig also sets up quickly and and further secure the insert — yet allow the bolt to ac-
provides a high degree of repeatable accuracy. Combine cess the buried insert. Now drive in the threaded insert.
by Steve Shanesy
Comments or questions? Contact David at 513-531-2690 ext, 238 or [email protected].

MORTISING JIG
NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) M AT E R I A L
T W L
❏ 2 Sides 3⁄
4 5 26 Plywood
❏ 2 Bottoms 3⁄
4 31⁄ 2 26 Plywood
❏ 2 Edge bands 1⁄
4
3⁄
4 26 Maple
❏ 2 Stops 1⁄
2 11⁄ 4 7 Maple
❏ 2 Clamp blocks 2 2 4 Maple
❏ 1 Dowel 1⁄
2 Dowel stock
the router table’s fence after rout- held in a vise. You will also need
ing the groove, it should be cen- to clamp a stop block on the in-
tered on the part. Take the jig out side of the jig’s side to use as a
of the clamps, install the stops, gauge for placing successive parts
Set-up can be a snap. With the bit set to Rout mortises making stepped cuts for bolts and knobs. Bore the holes in the exact same location.
just clear the work piece, set the stops safety. Each pass should be 1⁄ 4" to 3⁄ 8" for the clamp mechanism in the Remember to make multi-
for the router, then adjust the router’s deep. Pull the router toward you so the
clamping blocks and jig sides. ple passes when routing your mor-
edge guide to the mortise layout lines. bit rotation forces the router’s edge
guide to the side of the jig. Also, install the threaded inserts tises. I’d recommend no more
in the clamp blocks. Complete than a 3⁄8"-deep cut at a time when
It’s a good idea to place the side cut them to width, then rout the the jig by installing the clamp as- using a router bit in the 3⁄ 8"- to
1⁄
in a vise to prevent the plywood groove below so that it is cen- sembly in the jig. 2"-diameter range. And as for
from splitting during this opera- tered on the stock. Check the fit bit selection, an up-spiral straight
tion. When done, chase the hole on the jig side. You want it to Tips on Use bit is best because the spiral de-
with a 1⁄ 2" drill bit to the depth move freely but without side-to- When using the jig, be sure it is sign evacuates the waste up
of the insert so the dowel will side play. When done, rout the securely fastened to a bench or through the flutes in the bit. PW
1⁄
fit the hole. Next, glue the dowel 4" slot. If you did-
in place. Go easy on the glue so n’t move 1 1/4"
you don’t fill the inserts threads
with glue. Apply the hardwood 7"
edgebanding on the tops of the 3/4"
1/4" w. slot
jig’s sides.
When making the bottom,
first glue up an oversized double- 26" 3/4" plywood
thickness plywood blank. Cut Stop detail
it to final dimension, making sure 1/4" x 3/4" 2 layers -
1/2" hardwood cap 3/4" plywood
your table saw blade is dead square
3/16"x 3/4"
to the saw table. This will ensure
groove
your side parts will be square to
the part you are mortising. When 5 1/2"
the bottom is ready, glue and clamp
the two sides in place. Keep the
bottom edge of the sides in line
with the bottom surface of the
1/4"
bottom part.
Clamping Mechanism
While this assembly is drying, 5"
Drive-in insert for
make the parts for the clamp 1/4" threaded rod
mechanism and the adjustable
stops. Use hardwood and make 3 1/2"
1 1/2" Clamp detail
them to the shape and dimen- 2"
sions given in the diagrams and 8 1/2"
cutting list. Make longer lengths 2"
3/4" 3/8"
that can later be cut to final size.
It’s both safer and faster.
Use a router in a router table
4"
to make the adjustable stops. First 2"

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Using a
CUTTING
LIST
A properly organized cutting
list can prevent major errors
(have you ever made a door too small?).
Here are the basics for
getting your plans on paper.
y now, every woodworker list is ideal for large, complex proj- part of the project. As I record the dimensions, re-
B has heard the joke about

the proverbial lumber
stretcher. Cutting a board too
ects. But it also works well for
small projects by providing me
with a shopping list when I pur-
dimensions for each piece in a proj-
ect, I’ll add extra length for a tenon
or other joinery. When recording
member to make
separate columns
for quantities and
short is a common mistake that chase lumber. parts that will require careful fit- materials.
most of us have made at one time ting, I’ll use rough dimensions in- Obviously, sym-
or another. If it’s just run-of-the- Getting Started stead. For example, when making metrical assem-
mill lumber, the stock can be used Organizing a cutting list is much drawers and doors for a case, I’ll blies will require pairs. You often
in another part of the project. But easier if you begin with a drawing wait and mill all those parts to final can save money on material by
if the board is figured or part of a or a story pole. A story pole is sim- size after the case is constructed nesting mating parts, such as chair
matched set from the same log, ply a stick with all the linear di- to ensure I get a precise fit. legs, together on the same plank.
miscutting a board can be quite mensions for a project recorded It’s also a good idea to list the Unusually thin parts, such as di-
disappointing. One way to pre- along its length. Although a story dimensions in the order that they viders and partitions in a desk
vent this common mistake is to pole can work well for simple cab- are milled. The most common gallery, can be resawn from 4/4
use a cutting list. What’s a cut- inets and casework, I find that a order is thickness, width then stock. This, too, should be noted
ting list? Simply a chart that de- drawing works best for more com- length. I typically work each di- on the cutting list.
tails sizes and quantities for each plex projects—especially those mension to final size in that order, I also group sub-assemblies
part in a project. By referring to with compound curves such as so I use the same sequence on my such as doors, drawers and case
a cutting list I’m able to avoid chairs. As I study a drawing, I’ll cutting list. parts. This way I’ll remember to
guesswork or mathematical er- jot down the finished sizes for each As you’re writing down the mill mating parts and those that
rors. Organizing the parts on the share common dimensions at the
cutting list into sub-assemblies by Lonnie Bird same time, using the same settings
also helps keep my projects or- on the planer and table saw. This
Lonnie Bird ([email protected]) builds period furniture and conducts
ganized and my work flowing woodworking seminars in Dandridge, Tennessee. method is not only more pro-
smoothly. Obviously, a cutting ductive, but it also helps ensure

a precise fit between parts that February 2002, issue #126). My thickness I add at least 1⁄4" for flat- disk. This makes it easy to update
will be joined together later. cutting list tells me which mate- tening the board and planing it to the list or generate a new copy
Using a secondary wood such rial has been cut to size. final thickness. For example, 3⁄ 4"- later on. And, when I’m design-
as pine or poplar on drawers, case thick stock will require 4/4 mate- ing a new piece of furniture that
backs, and other surfaces that are Putting the List to Use rial. Because wide boards will some- is similar to a piece I’ve already
normally hidden from view is an- Once the cutting list is complete, times warp more severely as they built, I can simply modify the ex-
other way to save money on ma- I’m ready to put it to use. As I search dry, I sometimes find it necessary isting cutting list. As you can
terials. I also note this in a sep- through my lumber storage shed, to use thicker stock. imagine, this saves considerable
arate column on the list. I keep the list close at hand for ref- As a rule of thumb, I add 1⁄ 2" time because I don’t have to gen-
A cutting list isn’t complete erence. I always begin by first scan- to the final width and length. This erate a totally new list from scratch.
without columns to check off ning the list for the wide and long is usually enough to joint the stock When a project is complete, I
rough and final dimensions. To stock. Rough cutting the largest straight, rip it to its final width, store the cut list and construction
help prevent problems associat- parts first allows them plenty of and cut it to its final length. notes along with a hardware list
ed with wood movement, I al- time to acclimate; and often the in my shop’s file cabinet. The next
ways cut stock to rough size and offcuts are suitable for smaller parts Keeping It Handy time I receive a commission for a
allow it to acclimate in my shop on the list. When rough cutting I keep all my cutting lists stored piece, I’m organized and ready to
for a few weeks (see “Wood parts to size, always add to the fin- in a filing cabinet in my shop. I jump into the project. PW
Movement” Popular Woodworking ished dimensions on the list. For also like to keep a copy stored on
www.popwood.com 75
$ 30 It doesn’t take a lot of time or money
Lumber
Rack
to build a flexible and sturdy rack
for your rough lumber and offcuts.
n my family, we still that means running

I remember the day my
old lumber rack col-
them to the floor. In my
shop, the lower half of
lapsed. I was upstairs with my wall is cinder block,
the kids when there was so I set the 2 x 4s on
a sudden and horrible those. To hold the lum-
crash. The two cats ran ber, I drilled 7⁄ 8"-diame-
in four directions; the ter holes through the 2
baby started to wail. It x 4s at 4" intervals and
was that loud. at a 5° angle. Then I in-
When I went down serted 12" lengths of 1⁄ 2"
Clamp all your pieces together when laying out the holes. This is
the steps to the shop it faster and more accurate. galvanized pipe in the
looked like a giant box holes. The 1⁄2" pipe, avail-
of toothpicks had spilled everywhere. It seems the able in the plumbing section, actually has an exte-
metal brackets I had bolted to the walls had reached rior diameter of just under 7⁄ 8", so it fits nicely.
their limit. One of the brackets gave way and every- Before you get started, there are a couple things
thing came tumbling down. to consider when building this rack for your shop.
So when I went to rebuild, I wanted something First, I used 12" lengths of pipe because I rarely have
stout, simple and cheap. I pored over books and mag- anything in my rack wider than 8". Wider lumber
azines for ideas, borrowed a few and made some needs longer pipes. Plus, this rack is right over my
changes. Here’s what I came up with: jointer, so I didn’t want the pipes to stick out any
more than necessary.
Pipe and 2 x 4s
Essentially, the backbones of this rack are 2 x 4s bolt- Prep Your Lumber
ed on edge to the double top plate and the bottom I bought a single Southern yellow pine 2 x 8 that was
plate of my shop wall. The bottom edges of your 2 8' long for this project. By ripping it down the mid-
x 4s should rest on something solid. In most shops, dle and crosscutting it into 4' lengths, I got four 4'-
by Christopher Schwarz
Comments or questions? Contact Chris at 513-531-2690 ext. 407 or
[email protected].
www.popwood.com 77
Because the table is at a
5° angle, it’s easier to $30 LUMBER RACK
align your holes using the NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) NOTES
T W L
rim of the Forstner bit
instead of the center spur. ❏ 4 Vertical braces 13⁄ 8 3 48 Yellow pine
❏ 16 Pipes 1⁄
2ID 12 Galvanized pipe
❏ 8 Lag screws 41⁄ 2
tom plate of your stud ❏ 8 Washers 13⁄ 8 dia.
ID=interior diameter; the exterior diameter of this pipe is just under 7⁄ 8".
wall. The location of
the hole in the dia-
gram is for a stud wall 3/4"
with a double top
Double
top plate
plate. Your wall may
be different.
Now drill a 13⁄ 8"-
diameter recess for
2 1/4"
the washer — it only
needs to be deep
enough to seat the
washer. Then drill
6"
a 1⁄ 2"-diameter hole
in the middle of the
recess. Repeat this
process on the other
end of the board and
long 2 x 4s. If you don’t have on the other boards.
1/2"OSB or
Southern yellow pine in your area,
drywall typical
try vertical-grade fir or any other Even More Drill Press Work 1"
tough construction timber. Now, drill the holes for the gal- 5º
I ran the parts over my join- vanized pipe. Chuck a 7⁄8" Forstner
ter and through my thickness bit in your drill press and set the 7/8"
planer to get them straight and table at a 5° angle. This slight
true. They finished out at 13⁄ 8" angle will use gravity to keep your
thick and 3" wide. lumber in the rack. 4"
Clamp all the pieces of wood Pipe holes
Clearance Holes together with the ends aligned
The first thing to do is taper the and make a mark every 4" across Bracket
ends of the boards and drill the all four boards.
clearance holes to bolt them to Now drill the holes through
your wall. I used 41⁄ 2"-long lag the boards. Because the table is
screws and 13⁄ 8"-diameter wash- at 5°, it’s difficult to get the cen- Wall studs
ers. You want the holes in your ter of the bit to hit your line. So
boards to be clearance holes — don’t. Instead, align your holes
that is, you want the threads on so the edge of the Forstner bit
the lag bolt biting only into the touches the line instead of the
wood in the wall. center. It’s much easier.
Examine the diagrams and Section 3"
you’ll see that the easiest way Pipes and Installation
to accomplish this is to taper the I bought galvanized pipe and cut
ends as shown. I used a band saw it to length using a hack saw. Dress
to cut the taper and cleaned up the ends using a grinder or file to Mark where the bolts will go and nice it is to have a flexible rack
the cut with a hand plane. remove the rough spots. Now get drill pilot holes for the lag screws. like this. You can reserve a cou-
The holes for the lag screws ready to install your rack. Fasten the lag screws to the wall ple pipes for short scraps, and add
should be located so the screws Use a level to ensure your lay- using a ratchet. more pipes or braces as your lum-
enter into the top plate and bot- out lines are plumb and parallel. I think you’ll see quickly how ber pile expands. PW

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seedling shelter
When it’s freezing out and you want to get
a jump on spring, nothing beats this cold frame.
N
ot being much of a gardener myself, when my wife decided to
get into gardening I had a learning curve to overcome. I wasn’t
aware that the growing season starts late in the winter months
rather than the spring. Around here (Ohio) it’s too cold to get the veg-
etables started without the aid of a cold frame. What’s a cold frame?
Simply a mini-greenhouse. The interiors should be painted with light
colors to reflect as much light and heat as possible. The top is mostly glass
(or Plexiglas) to generate solar heat, and the lid needs to be adjusted at
least twice daily to prevent mold from growing because of the conden-
sation that forms in this cozy little plant-friendly environment.
As designed, this cold frame will keep three flats of seedlings safe
from the elements. I didn’t feel like adjusting a lid all the time, and Lee
Valley Tools came to the rescue with a heat-activated window opener
that opens and closes as the ambient temperature changes, eliminating
the daily lid adjust-
ment. This project Plexiglas set into
takes only a couple af- 1/4" x 1/4" rabbet Continuous
ternoons to complete, hinge
so you’ll have your seedlings grow- F
ing in no time. 3/4" X 1"
Begin construction by cutting corner brackets

out the parts according to the cutting
list. The box is made up of an upper B
and lower box that nest to-
gether in rabbets. Cut the D
box parts to size and mill C
G
the 1⁄ 2" x 7⁄ 16" rabbets in
A
what will be the top edge
of the lower box and the 1/2" x 7/16"
bottom edge of the top box. rabbet cut E
This rabbet allows the two D on edges
boxes to nest together and
make a taller unit when your seedlings
mature and need the room. #20 biscuits in corners
After cutting the box parts to length, cut 45° angles
on the ends and cut two biscuit joints in each corner. Clamp two halves
of a joint together to form a square corner, making it easier to use a
biscuit joiner. Dry-clamp the top box together and lay out the angle for
cutting the pitch of the box to better catch the sun’s rays. Use a jigsaw
to cut the angle on the sides, then use a table saw with the blade angled
by Jim Stuard
Jim is a former associate editor and now divides his time on the projects he is
most proud of: his children, his writing and teaching woodworking.
www.popwood.com 81
SEEDLING SHELTER
NO. L E T. I T E M DIMENSIONS (INCHES) M AT E R I A L
T W L
❏ 1 A Top box front 3⁄
4 6 321⁄ 2 CDX Ply
❏ 1 B Top box back 3⁄
4 10 321⁄ 2 CDX Ply
❏ 2 C Top box sides 3⁄
4 10 221⁄ 2 CDX Ply
❏ 2 D Bot box frnt and bk. 3⁄
4 81⁄ 2 321⁄ 2 CDX Ply
❏ 2 E Bot box sides 3⁄
4 81⁄ 2 221⁄ 2 CDX Ply
❏ 1 F Lid 3⁄
4 24 331⁄ 2 CDX Ply
❏ 1 G Hinge mounting tab 3⁄
4 3 5 CDX Ply
1 7/8"
When your seedlings start to kick into high gear, you can add the second box to the
seedling shelter to give them more room to grow.
20 1/4" 24" to bevel-cut the top edges on the shed water. The mounting tab for
3/4"
radii on all front and back pieces. You’ll be the window opener (Lee Valley
corners in and out
cutting away one of your biscuit Tools, 800-871-8158, item
2 1/2" 3" joints, but you’ll be adding cor- #AM401, $36.50) is located be-
ner braces later to reinforce the tween two seedling flats when
1 1/2"
frames. Use polyurethane glue in they’re in place. You’ll have to
1 7/8"
each joint to make the boxes plane the top of the tab so it’s flush
1 7/8" 13 15/16" 1 7/8" 13 15/16" 1 7/8"
water-resistant. When the glue with the rest of the rabbet. Attach
is dry, plane all the edges flush the lid with a piece of continu-
33 1/2"
Lid and then check the fit between ous hinge. Attach the window
the top and bottom boxes. opener so it doesn’t go beneath
3/4"
Now make and attach the lid. the bottom edge of the top box
Cut it out of one piece of ply- when it’s on the ground. This
wood, then make the cutouts ac- takes a little finagling but it can
cording to the diagram. Take a be done. The openings for the
21" 22 1/2" router with a rabbeting bit and Plexiglas pieces are the same size.
cut a 1⁄4" x 1⁄4"-wide rabbet on the Cut two “panes” to size and set
top edge of the cutouts to ac- them aside for later.
commodate the thickness of the Go ahead and paint the en-
Plexiglas. The adhesive used to tire cold frame with a durable out-
hold the Plexiglas in place later door paint. Use white or at least
3/4" will leave it a little proud of the a light color for good reflectivi-
lid surface and will help the lid ty. Apply two coats to every sur-
3/4" 31" 3/4" face. When the paint is dry, in-
32 1/2"
24" stall a couple of metal corner
Plan brackets to each corner for
extra support. Attach
4"
the lid; glue in the
4" Plexiglas with epoxy and
seal the rabbets in the
6" 6 1/8" 6" lid with white caulk.
18" 18"
Attach the window
7/16" x 1/2" rabbet in edge of sides, opener and apply
on the top of the extension and the 8" 8" weatherstripping to the
bottom of the primary unit indexes frames joint between the lid
Illustration by Jim Stuard.
and the frame.

Now get to the pot-
3/4" 31" 3/4" 3/4" 21" 3/4"
ting shed for some seri-
32 1/2" 22 1/2" ous seedling duty. PW
Elevation Profile

Illustrated by Bob Rech
CAPTION THE CARTOON [email protected]
#53
We Now Take E-mail Entries!

Submit your captions for this cartoon by e-mailing them to [email protected]
(be sure to put “Cartoon Caption #53” as the subject of your e-mail). Or send it to
us on a postcard: Popular Woodworking, Cartoon Caption #53, 1507 Dana Ave.,
Cincinnati, OH 45207 by May 1.Winners will be chosen by the
editorial staff.
The winner will receive the new Freud FJ85 Jigsaw with
Electronic Cruise Control.This variable speed, 6-amp,
orbital jigsaw offers toolless blade change and the cruise
control keeps the blade speed constant under different
loads to provide a finer, faster cut.The runners-up each
win a one-year subscription to Popular Woodworking.
#51
“Moments before Elmo and Sam learned why their new lathe
really really needed a blade guard.”
Bruce Wilson, of Framingham, Massachusetts, is the winner of our Cartoon Contest

from the December issue and recipient of a fine set of Freud router bits. The follow-
ing runners-up each receive a one-year subscription to Popular Woodworking:
“We give the glasses free with each tool, get the price down to under $1 million and I
think we have a winner!” Tay Buono, Bound Brook, New Jersey
“A computer programmer, Star Trek fan and now woodworker. I just can’t figure out
why neither of us is married yet!” John Moeykens, Stanton, North Dakota
“What do ya say we get a couple of pounds of bratwurst and see what it will do?”
Dan Landis, Goshen, Indiana
www.popwood.com 83
FLEXNER ON FINISHING
Understanding Solvents
and Thinners
You can change the properties of your finishes (such as making them dry more
slowly) when you understand a few things about solvents and thinners.
F inishing can’t exist without solvents and

thinners – even water-based stains and
finishes contain them. If you understand a lit-
tle about them and how they relate to each
other, you’ll have more control of your work.
You’ll be able to speed up or slow down the
drying time of your finish to compensate for
the humidity or the type of project you’re fin-
ishing. You’ll also be able to manipulate the
viscosity of your finish to make it flow better.
Though the terms “solvent” and “thin-
ner” often are used interchangeably (and I
will sometimes use the more general term
“solvent” here to refer to both), they are ac-
tually quite different. A solvent is a liquid
that dissolves a solid, such as a cured fin-
ish, while a thinner thins a liquid stain or
finish. Sometimes a liquid just thins a finish,
and other times it both dissolves and thins
a finish. (See the table on the next page.)
Solvents are grouped in families. There are
five, not including the special ones used in and octane are fast-evaporating liquids at faces, petroleum distillates are widely used as
paint-and-varnish removers: petroleum dis- room temperature and are used in gasoline. the main ingredient in furniture polishes.
tillates, alcohols, ketones, esters and glycol Naphtha evaporates slower than gasoline and Toluene (toluol) and xylene (xylol) make
ethers. Each family reacts with a finish in a dif- mineral spirits (paint thinner) slower still. up part of naphtha and mineral spirits, and
ferent way. These are the petroleum distillates commonly when removed leave these solvents “odor-
Within each family, solvents differ pri- found on paint store shelves and used most less” and also a little weaker in solvent strength.
marily in evaporation rate, with some evap- often in finishing. Toluene and xylene are used primarily as clean-
orating rapidly at room temperature and oth- Kerosene also is widely available, but it ers to remove oily substances from metals and
ers evaporating very slowly or not at all. The evaporates too slowly to be much use in fin- wood, and to soften water-based finish, latex
most well-known family with which to il- ishing. Mineral oil (also called paraffin oil) paint and white and yellow glue. You can re-
lustrate this relationship is the petroleum- and paraffin wax don’t evaporate at all at move any of these from wood by wetting and
distillate family. room temperature. Paraffin wax, in fact, is a scrubbing with toluene or xylene.
solid at room temperature. Turpentine is a distillation of pine-tree
Petroleum Distillates You may have noticed in using these sol- sap and is equivalent to petroleum distillates
Petroleum distillates are composed entirely vents that the slower the evaporation, the in its chemical structure and uses. It is oili-
of hydrogen and carbon and are distilled from oilier the liquid substance. Mineral spirits er and evaporates a little slower than min-
petroleum and sometimes from coal tar. They is oilier than naphtha, and kerosene is oilier eral spirits, but it has a solvent strength sim-
are used in finishing primarily to thin and than mineral spirits. Mineral oil is oil. Because ilar to naphtha.
clean up oils and varnishes. none of these distillations damage finishes,
The smallest petroleum-distillate is methane, and because oily substances are effective at Other Families
which is a gas at room temperature . Heptane picking up dust and adding shine to dull sur- Other solvents used in finishing also are mem-

You’ll appreciate our difference.
Prepaid Freight • Surfaced • Bundled

Shrink Wrapped • Guaranteed
bers of families, having the same relation- choose between these solvents primarily
• All lumber is Select and better grade, 4" and wider, averaging
ships within those families as the individual for evaporation rate (to control the drying of 6"-7" in width, lengths are 6'-8'. All stock meets or exceeds
National Hardwood Lumber Assoc. grade rules.
petroleum distillates have within their fam- the finish), with the slower-evaporating sol-
• All domestic lumber is Northern Appalachian grown, exhibiting
ily – evaporating more or less fast and being vents being used in lacquer retarders and faster characteristics of fine grain, texture and uniform color.
more or less oily. ones being used in “fast” lacquer thinners. Visa/Mastercard/Discover accepted.
Alcohols are used primarily to thin and Glycol ethers are the primary solvents Niagara Lumber
remove shellac, and as an ingredient in lac- used in water-based stains and finishes be- & WOOD PRODUCTS, INC.
47 Elm Street • East Aurora, NY 14052
quer thinner and many paint-and-varnish cause these solvents evaporate slower than Call Toll-Free 1-800-274-0397
removers. Three alcohols used in finishing water, which is necessary or these finishes www.niagaralumber.com
are common: methanol, denatured alcohol won’t cure properly. Circle #126 on information card.
and glycol (usually propylene glycol).
Methanol evaporates the fastest and is Using this Information
used for thinning non-grain-raising (NGR) Solvents and thinners help you control
stains because the fast-evaporation helps
control the depth of stain penetration when
spraying. But methanol is very toxic, so it
the finishing products you work with.
• You can control the working time of
paste-wood filler and glaze by choosing be-
West Penn
HARDWOODS, INC.
should be used only with adequate ventila- tween mineral spirits and naphtha for the Satisfaction Guaranteed • No Minimum Orders
tion, since respirator masks aren’t effective. thinner. Quarter-Sawn White Oak • High Figure Curly Maple
Denatured alcohol is ethanol (common • You can control the working properties Now Also Exotic Species:
in liquors) made poisonous so it can be of homemade paste wax by choosing miner- Bloodwood, Bubinga, Jatoba, Spanish Cedar Padauk,
Purpleheart, Zebrawood and more
sold without a tax. This is the best alcohol al spirits or turpentine for slow drying, and
NEW: European Steamed Beech
to use with shellac. naphtha, toluene or xylene for fast drying.
ALL CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Glycol is an extremely slow evaporating • You can slow the drying of lacquer so it
alcohol used in water-based stains and fin- doesn’t blush in high humidity or feel sandy Call for free catalog and pricing.
TOLL FREE (888) 636-WOOD (9663)
ishes to slow their drying and help them level from overspray (especially common when
out. It is often sold as a “flow additive.” (Rubbing spraying the insides of cabinets and drawers)
alcohol, sold in pharmacies, contains too much by adding lacquer retarder to the lacquer.
water to be useful in finishing.) • You can add glycol to water-based stains
Ketones, esters and glycol ethers dissolve and finishes to increase your working time
lacquer, so they’re used as the active solvents and get them to flow out better.
in lacquer thinner. Acetone and methyl ethyl • You can add a little lacquer retarder to
ketone (MEK) evaporate rapidly and are shellac to slow the drying (useful in hot weath-
often used to remove oil from metal and er). Lacquer thinners and retarders contain
wood, and for stripping paints and finishes. alcohol and will thin shellac. PW
They are usually available in paint stores and
home centers, unlike esters and glycol ethers, Bob Flexner is the author of “Understanding Wood
which aren’t commonly available. Finishing” and a contributing editor to Popular
To make lacquer thinner, manufacturers Woodworking.
TABLE: WHAT DISSOLVES AND THINS WHAT

SUBSTANCE DISSOLVES THINS
Mineral Spirits (paint thinner) Wax Wax, Oil,
Naphtha Varnish,
Turpentine Polyurethane
Toluene Wax, Water-Based Finish, Wax, Oil, Varnish,
Xylene White and Yellow Glue Polyurethane,
Conversion Varnish
Alcohol Shellac Shellac, Lacquer
Lacquer Thinner Shellac, Lacquer, Lacquer, Shellac,
Water-based Finish Catalyzed Lacquer
Glycol Ether Shellac, Lacquer, Lacquer,
Water-based Finish Water-based Finish
Water — Water-based Finish
www.popwood.com 87
OUT OF THE WOODWORK
Woodworker
Meets Wordworker
What do gambling, medieval wagons and missile
warheads have to do with today’s woodworkers?
A s a professor of English I love words, and,

like you, I also love woodworking. Non-
woodworking friends consider strange the words
You might want to embellish your high-
boy’s drawers with a strip of raised, narrow
moulding or a band attached to the edges of
we use regularly in our craft, among them “car- the drawer front. The proper name for this
cass,” “cockbead,” “dado,” “ogee,” “rabbet” and strip is cockbeading. “Cock” means something
others. Where did we get these unusual words? that sticks up as, for instance, the cocking-
Their origins might surprise you. piece of a weapon. Beads, such as on a rosary,
Suppose you wanted to make a highboy, usually are found on a strip or in a line. Think
a tall chest of drawers usually divided into of a marksman who “draws a bead” from him-
two sections. First, you should know that self to a target. These two words combine to probably use either word without fear of the
highboy has nothing to do with gender. form cockbeading, a “strip that sticks up.” Word Police coming after you, but I recom-
Boy is an English pronunciation of the French The raised panels in doors fit between mend using “muntin” to refer only to strips
bois, meaning “wood”; boisage is French for vertical pieces called stiles. This word came between glass and “mullion” to strips be-
“woodwork” or “casing.” into English through the Dutch stijl, mean- tween any sort of panel such as wainscoting.
To make a strong highboy, begin by making pillar or post. Think of a turnstile that Speaking of wainscot, do you pronounce
ing a carcass. You can spell this word carcass you pass through to an athletic event; the it “WAINS-kaht” or “WAINS-coat?”
or carcase. Both spellings are common today turning mechanism rests atop a pillar. Dictionaries recognize both pronunciations,
and are pronounced the same, “CAR-cuss.” Woodworkers also like to decorate the but the first seems to be more widespread.
As far back as the 13th century, carcass has edge of some surfaces using an “ogee” router “Wain” is an Old English form of the German
meant “a dead body.” Nowadays the word is bit. An ogee is not an object but a shape. wagen, meaning “wagon” or “cart,” and “scot”
a term of derision: “Get your lazy carcass “Ogee” describes an S-shaped curve that you comes from the German schot, originally a
out of that recliner!” Because carcass means can see if you view your routed edge in pro- type of fine oak panel. But what does a wagon
a corpse or skeleton, woodworkers appro- file. “Ogee” derives from the French ogive, a have to do with this word? Imagine a me-
priated the term to describe the framework, word still in use today to mean an arch. Ogive dieval wagon partially enclosed with pan-
or skeleton, of a piece of furniture. mouldings join the upper legs of a highboy els separated by stiles, and you should see
One way of making a carcass is using a with the rail at the front of the case. Oddly, something resembling the lower portion of
“dado,” an efficient groove method of join- the word ogive has been applied to the shape a wainscoted room.
ery. Dado is an Italian word related to “die,” of disparate objects. In the 19th century, Woodworkers pride ourselves in shunning
the cube used in gambling (the plural is dice). the word described a Gothic arch in a sanc- “manufactured” items. But “manufacture”
Woodworkers took a gambling term to de- tuary and, in the 20th century, it described used to mean “made by hand” (“manu-” hand;
scribe the basic cube shape. the profile of the head of a projectile, such as “fact-” make). Similarly, “artificial” used to
By the way, don’t use “dado” and “rab- the warhead or topmost point of a missile. mean “made with great skill or art” (“art-” art;
bet” interchangeably. And above all, don’t Beginning woodworkers sometimes con- “fic-” make). Today it means the opposite.
misspell “rabbet” as “rabbit.” Furry animals fuse “muntin” and “mullion” because they Definitions and pronunciations change
have nothing to do with this word’s origin. look and sound alike and both are related to over time. When we understand the origins
When you ask a salesperson for a rebate on windows. “Muntin” comes from the French of woodworking terms, we connect with the
a purchase, you are asking for a reduction in montant, meaning any object that protrudes artisans of the past, our collective fore-
the price. The Old French word rabbat — to or rises above the surface, such as a mountain. bears whose ingenuity developed the craft
reduce or diminish — came almost direct- Hence, a “muntin” is the raised material sep- that we enjoy today. PW
ly into English to describe the act of reduc- arating panes of glass in a window or door.
ing the surface of wood or stone. Therefore, “Mullion” is a variant of muniall, an Old Philip Leon is a professor of English at The Citadel in
“rabbet” and “rebate” are modern English French word derived from Latin meaning Charleston, South Carolina; he is the author of four
cousins with a common French ancestor. “in the middle of” or between. You could books on literary subjects.

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