Marshall Origin 20h

Headfirst - Marshall Origin 20h mods
January 2021
* José clippers added May 2021 (end of doc)
Bill of Materials
1/2 watt metal film resistors
R69 2.7k
R62 2.7k
R59 100k
R54 1k
R90 470k
R55 100k
R56 470k. (Don’t solder in R56 470k - see notes)
R50 220k. (Don’t fully replace R50 - see notes)
These metal film resistors are a good choice. 1w and thin legs to get
through the tiny holes in Origin PCB!
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/594-5073NW100K0J/
Electrolytic caps
C43 0.68uF 50v (or 100v)
C37 0.68uF 50v (or 100v)
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/UKL2AR68KDD/
Coupling & Bypass Caps

C42 2n2 630v WIMA
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MKP1O112203C00JSSD
C50 22nF 630v WIMA

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/505-M10.022-630-10/
C29 22nF 630v WIMA

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/505-M10.022-630-10/
Bypass cap across R59 470pF 630v

Bypass cap across R90 470pF 630v
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FKP3J004702B00KSSD, or,
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/cd15fd471jo3f
Fixed depth addition to R50

0.0047uF 630v film cap
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/150472J630BB
Bright cap for gain pot:
1nF ceramic
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-B3AD102KYVN/
Instructions
Remove chassis from the head cab and remove all the tubes.
Flip it over and take lots of pictures of the stock amp. Especially where all
the wires come on and off the PCB.
Remove the main PCB from the amp. You’ll do this by unclipping all
wires, unscrewing the 4 small bolts holding the power tube sockets in (on
top of the amp), and the 9 larger bolts holding the PCB in place.
Once out, you can start to remove components. You can place the iron on
the pad underneath the leg of the component you need to remove, or do
it from the top. I found it easiest working from the top for the resistors.
Do not try to yank the component out until the solder has melted through
- you’ll need your iron set at around 340 Celsius, no hotter than 360
otherwise you risk smoking the PCB traces. Do one leg at a time.
Remove the following:

C38, C39
R66, R67
All of the components listed in the BoM - the existing ones all need to
come out.
R58
R60
R65
C33
C32
R57
R76
C30
R51
R52
R55
Wire in the Mods!

Solder in all of the new components pre the BoM, in their respective
positions.
Run a wire from the bottom of R67 to the top of R65. (This could equally
be done under the board)
For the gain pot bright cap (1nF ceramic), you can place this by soldering
it between the bottom of R67 and the bottom C42.
Add the 470pF bypass across the new 100k in the R59 position.
To setup the 470k//470pF & 470k voltage divider heading into V2b, you
need to
- solder in a 470k resistor with the 470pF in parallel, into the R90
position
- solder another 470k from the top of R90 to Ground, via the bottom
of the R56 footprint.
Run a wire (link) across R58 to connect these pads together.
Lift the bottom leg of R50. Place one end of the 220k, in parallel with the
0.0047uF film cap, into the bottom pad of R50. Then join the free end of
the existing R50 100k resistor to the free end of the 220k/4n7 combo.
This is your fixed depth.
Under board connections (see pic)

You need to solder in two links here which reconfigure the signal flow to
V2.
When viewed from the top of the PCB…
1) From the first pin (left most) of the second header (CN22) that leads to
the EQ/tone pots. The wire needs to run from that first pin to the bottom
of C50. C50 now has a new 22nF WIMA coupling cap in it.
2) From the top of C33 to the left hand side of C30.
Connections to the pots

Clip the very end off the leads at the PCB end of CN102, which runs to the
EQ pots.
Solder the left most white wire to the top of R59. Leave the black wire
free (it’s a ground wire and can be left free)
Solder the right most white wire to the bottom of R51, you’ll need to
extend this a bit as it won’t reach. Leave the black wire free (it’s a
ground wire and can be left free)
Reassembly
Check your soldering is true with a multimeter as far as possible. Check
for continuity (beep) between obvious links.
Place the PCB back in, screw in all the bolts removed.
Consult the pictures you took right the start to make sure you place all
the terminals back into the correct location on the PCB. This is very
important!!!
Power on, and test!
Good luck with this mod.
Adding the José zener clipper diodes (May 2021)

Here are the parts you need:
1 x 220k resistor
1 x 10k resistor
1 x 3 way mini switch (On - Off - On). https://au.mouser.com/
ProductDetail/100sp3t1b1m1qeh
Short length of shielded coax
2 x 20v Zener diodes, 1N4747A. https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/
1N4747A
1 x 5.1v Zener Diode. 1N4733A. https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/
1n4733a
1 x 24v Zener Diode. 1N4749A. https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/
1n4749a
1 x film coupling cap 0.22uF to 0.47uF, rated to 630VDC. You can try
anything here, I can suggest these Panasonic’s as a starting point: (All
0.33uF)
ECQ-E6334KF
ECW-FD2J334J
ECW-FE2J334J
Jason Tong
Headfirst Amplification
[email protected]
https://www.headfirstamplification.com

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Headfirst - Marshall Origin 20h mods

Coupling & Bypass Caps

C50 22nF 630v WIMA

C29 22nF 630v WIMA

Bypass cap across R59 470pF 630v

Fixed depth addition to R50

Remove the following:

Wire in the Mods!

Run a wire (link) across R58 to connect these pads together.

Under board connections (see pic)

When viewed from the top of the PCB…

2) From the top of C33 to the left hand side of C30.

Connections to the pots

Power on, and test!

Good luck with this mod.

Adding the José zener clipper diodes (May 2021)

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