FASHION

DRAPIPNG
BEGINNING
OF DRAPING
“Draping Pattern Making”

Basic Patterns
Draping Pattern

Most procedures in
draping utilizes the
development of basic
patterns
Basic Patterns

Three basic
patterns/foundation
pattern
 BLOCK/SLOPER

 CONSTRUCTION

 PATTERN
Methods in Pattern Designing
Flat Pattern Method Draping Method

Making pattern in
flat surface with the
aid of measuring
Draping is a technique used to make a 3-
and drafting tools dimensional dress pattern with the aid of a dress
form figure by pinning and placing fabric against
the form to create a garment
Basic Bodice - Front
A. Preparation of Muslin

1. Tear the end of the muslin along the crosswise grain Center front to side seam+ 4”
2. On the dress from, measure the distance from the top
of the neckline to the waistline
3. Measure along the selvage of the muslin the distance
from the top of the neckband to the waistline plus 4

Neckband to waistline + 4”
inches
4. Clip the selvage and tear along the crosswise grain
5. On the dress form, measure from the distance the side

Center front
seam to the center front at bust level

selvage
6. Measure along the crosswise grain of the muslin the
distance from the side seam to the center front at bust
level plus 4 inches.
7. Clip and tear along the lengthwise grain
8. Block and press the muslin
9. Draw the grainline for the center front 1 inch from the
lengthwise grain torn edge.
Basic Bodice - Front
A. Preparation of Muslin

10. Divide the muslin in half at the center front on the

crosswise grain to establish the bust level. Draw a
crosswise grain line at bust level.
11. On the dress form, determine the apex of the breast

Princess line
Side seam
with a pin. Measure the distance from the apex to the
center front.
12. On the muslin, mark the position of the apex at the bust

apex
level crosswise grain line.

Center front
13. On the dress form, measure the distance from the apex
to the side seam.
14. Add ¼ inch for ease, and indicate the position Bust line
15. Divide the distance between the apex and the side
seam in half to determine the center of the princess
panel.
Basic Bodice - Front
A. Preparation of Muslin

16. Draw the lengthwise grain lines from the

apex and the center of the princess panel

Princess line
to the lower edge of the muslin. If

Side seam
necessary, block and press the muslin
again before draping.

apex

Center front
17. Fold under the 1 inch extension at the
center front
18. Crease the lengthwise grain line at the
apex.

crease
 B. Draping Steps
1. Pin the muslin to the dress form at the apex.
Inserting two pins in opposite directions will
prevent the muslin from shifting.
2. Smooth the muslin up from the apex so that the
center front grain line of the muslin lies directly
over the center front seam of the dress form.
3. Pin at the inserction of the center front and neckline
4. Pin at the center front halfway between the
neckline and bust level.
5. Drape the muslin so that the bustline level is
straight across the dress form, leaving the lower
half of the muslin hanging straight, like a box
jacket. Pin on the bustline level between the apex
and side seam to prevent the muslin from sagging.
 B. Draping Steps
6. Pin the princess panel grain line at the waistline, taking a pinch.
The pinch pick up equals 1/16 inch.
7. Slash the princess panel grain line from the lower edge of the
muslin to ½ inch below the waistline.
8. Pin the muslin to the side seam at the waistline and underarm
intersections.
9. Hold the muslin at the center front and waistline without
disturbing the direction of the straight grain.
10. Pin the dart pickup at the waistline; the apex grain line must be at
the center of the dart.
11. Pin the center front at the waistline so that the crosswise grain is
straight between the dart and center front. Move the excess
muslin up toward the bust level, and pin below at the center front.
A hollow space will between the breasts, allowing the muslin to
maintain s straight grain across the entire front of the bodice
B. Draping Steps
12. To drape the neckline:
a. Cut away a rectangular piece of muslin 1 inch
above the neckline and center front
intersection. The cut should be 1 inch deep
and extend upward to the edge of the muslin.
b. Smooth the muslin on grain from the center
front across and then up to a right angle
toward the shoulder and neckline intersection
c. Slash carefully from the outer edge to within
3/8 inch of the neckline, so that the muslin
lies smoothly. Pin at the neckline and
shoulder intersection.
B. Draping Steps
12. Smooth the muslin along the shoulder
seam from the neckline to the princess
seam; dot the Intersection of the princess
and shoulder seams.
13. Crease lightly from the dot toward the
apex, smooth around the armhole from the
side seam up toward the shoulder, and
move in the excess fullness so that it lies
flat underneath the crease and forms the
shoulder dart. Pin at the shoulder seam
and armhole intersection.
B. Draping Steps
15. Pin the dart so that the
muslin lies flat at the
shoulder seam.
16. Pin across the vanishing
points of the shoulder dart
and the waistline dart. The
vanishing point is the end of
the dart.
C. Marking
 Mark all with well sharpened
pencil.

 Use crossmarks and dots

 Cossmarks should follow the

direction of intersecting seam lines.

 Dots should precisely marked,

small points.
C. Marking

1. Neckline 2. Shoulder 3. Armhole 4. Waistline

• Dot the armhole • Cross mark the
• Cross mark at the • Cross mark both
ridge from the waistline and side
centerline sides of the dart at
shoulder seam seam intersection
• Dot at the shoulder the shoulder along
• Do the edge of the • Dot along the
along the neckline the neckline
armplate at the lower edge of the
• Cross mark at the • Cross mark the
plate screw level; waistline from the
shoulder and shoulder seam and
• Cross mark the side seam to the
neckline armhole
intersection of the dart
intersection intersection
armplate and side • Cross mark both
seam sides of the dart
• Place the mark for pin.
the front seam
D. Trueing
Drawing the lines that define the exact dimension of the finished pattern

Steps in Trueing:
1. Remove the muslin from the dress form and remove all the
pins except those indicating the vanishing points of darts
2. Check that the dart cross marks at the waistline are equally
distant from the apex grain line. Adjust if necessary.
3. True the waistline dart by drawing lines form the vanishing
point through the waistline cross marks to the lower edge
of the muslin. Extend all lines for seams and darts beyond
the dimensions of the pattern.
4. True the shoulder dart by drawing a line from the apex to
the cross mark nearest the neckline. Mark the vanishing
point this line at pin level; connect the shoulder cross mark
nearest the armhole with the vanishing point.
Steps in Trueing:
5. Draw the side seam by connecting the cross marks at the
armhole and waistline.
6. Lower the armhole for a basic set-in sleeve by measuring
down on the dress form from the armhole ridge at the
shoulder over the center of the plate, to the side seam. The
armhole depth should be lowered as indicated on the table.

At the side seam of the dress form, mark the depth of

the lowered armhole with a pin. Determine the distance
between this pin and the lower edge of the armplate. Lower the
armhole at the side seam of the muslin accordingly.
Steps in Trueing:
7. True the armhole by placing the French curve so that the
straight edge touches the shoulder seam and armhole cross
mark, passes along the dots of the armhole ridge near the
shoulder and falls midway between the dots at the plate-
screw level. The curved edge should touch the cross mark
at the side seam and the lowered armhole.
8. True the neckline by placing the French curve so that the
curved edge follows the neckline dots and touches the
crossmarks at the center front and shoulder seam. This line
is used as a point of departure in a basic pattern. For a
finished garment, the neckline should be dropped at the
center front at least ¼ inch.
Steps in Trueing:
9. Fold the muslin on the cross wise grain at the
vanishing point of the shoulder dart. Crease the dart
line nearest the center front, and bring this line to
meet the dart line nearest the armhole. Slide a ruler
under the dart line and pin the dart as illustrated. Pin
the darts and seams by inserting the pin on the
folded edge, through all the layers of muslin at a right
angle to the seam line. Pin should be spaced about 2
inches apart.
10. True the shoulder seam by connecting the
crossmarks at the neckline and armhole ridge with a
ruler
11. Add seam allowances to the neckline and shoulder
seams, and trim away the excess muslin
12. Trim the armhole roughly, leaving about 1 ½ inches
beyond the seam line.
13. Pin the waistline dart by bringing the side closest to
the center front to the other side of the dart.
BASIC BODICE - BACK
STEPS IN DOING THE BASIC BACK BODICE
● PREPARATION OF MUSLIN
● DRAPING
● MARKING
● TRUING
BASIC BODICE - BACK
STEPS IN PREPARATION OF MUSLIN
1. On the dress from, measure the distance from
the top of the neckband to the waistline at the
center back.
2. Along the selvage of the muslin, measure the
distance from the top of the neckline to the
waistline plus 4 inches.
3. Clip the selvage and tear along the crosswise
grain.
4. On the dress form, measure the distance from
the side seam to the center back at the widest
point across the back, which is located at the
armplate and side seam intersection
BASIC BODICE - BACK
STEPS IN PREPARATION OF MUSLIN
5. On the muslins, measure along the crosswise
grain the distance across the back at the
widest point plus 4 inches.
6. Clip and tear along the lengthwise grain.
7. Block and press the muslin.
8. Draw the grain line for the center back 1 inch
from the lengthwise grain torn edge
BASIC BODICE - BACK
STEPS IN PREPARATION OF MUSLIN
9. Fold under the 1 inch extension at the center
back.
10. Measure 3 inches down form the top edge of
the muslin at the center back and cross mark
for he neckline.
11. On the dress from, measure the distance form
the neckline to the waistlines at the center
back
12. On the muslin, indicate with a cross mark the
distance from the neckline to the waistline at
the center back grain line.
BASIC BODICE - BACK
STEPS IN PREPARATION OF MUSLIN
13. Divide the distance between the neck line and
the waistline at the center back into quarters.
14. On the muslin, measure down one-quarter of
the center back from the neckline to establish
the shoulder blade level.
15. Draw crosswise grain line at the shoulder
blade level.
BASIC BODICE - BACK
STEPS IN PREPARATION OF MUSLIN
16. On the dress from, measure the distance from
the center back to the armplate at the shoulder
blade level.
17. On the muslin, indicate with a cross mark this
measurement plus 1/8 inch for eas on the
shoulder blade crosswise grain.
18. Measure 1 ¼ inches toward the center back
from the armplate cross mark; from this point,
draw a grain line toward the lower edge of the
muslin.
BASIC BODICE - BACK
DRAPING STEPS:
before the back bodice is draped,
the front bodice must be pinned to the
dress form, taking care that all seam and
the dart lines corresponds with those on
the form. Sink pins at the shoulder seam
completely into the dress form. Once set in
position, place a row of pins approximately
½ inch away from the side seam and fold
the excess muslin.
BASIC BODICE - BACK
DRAPING STEPS:
1. Pin the center back of the muslin to
the dress form at the neckline and
shoulder blade level.
2. Smooth the muslin across the
shoulder blade level from the center
back toward the armplate; pin the
armplate cross mark to the armhole
ridge, evenly distributing the excess
ease; then pin along the shoulder
blade level to prevent the muslin from
sagging.
BASIC BODICE - BACK
Step 3
DRAPING STEPS:
3. Smooth down on the lengthwise grain
line to the level of the lower edge of
the armplate. Continue on the
crosswise grain to the armplate and
side seam intersection and pin
4. Balance the side seam by pinning the
front and back muslin together at the
armplate and side seam intersections.
Before pinning the side seams
together at the waistline, maek sure
that the grains are parallel at the
uncut edges of the muslin. Pin the side Step 4
seam together at the waistline
 Steps 7 and 8

BASIC BODICE - BACK

DRAPING STEPS:
5. Smooth down on the lengthwise grain line to the
waistline; take a pinch and pin into place at the
waistline.
6. Slash the lengthwise grain line from the lower edge of
the muslin to ½ inch below the waistline.
7. Pin the muslin at the center back and waistline
intersection.
8. Smooth along the waistline to the princess line and pick
up the excess muslin for the dart., pin the dart only at
the waistline and princess line intersection. With a pin
indicate the vanishing point of the dart. The dart must
not extend beyond the lowered level of the armhole.
 BASIC BODICE - BACK
DRAPING STEPS:
9. To drape the neckline:
a. Cut away a rectangular piece of muslin 1 inch above the neckline and
center back intersection. The cut should be 1 ½ inches deep and
extend up to the edge of the muslin
b. Smooth the muslin on grain from the center back across and then up at
a right angle toward the shoulder and neckline intersection
c. Slash carefully from the outer edge toward the neckline so that the
muslin lies smoothly.
10. Smooth the muslin along the shoulder seam from the neckline toward the
princess line, and take a pinch near the neckline; dot the intersection of the
princess seam and shoulder seam.
 BASIC BODICE - BACK
Steps 9 to 12
DRAPING STEPS:
11. Smooth around the armhole toward the
shoulder seam, and pin at the
intersection of the shoulder seam and the
armhole ridge.
12. Take a pinch at the shoulder seam near Steps 13
the armhole.
13. Move excess fullness underneath the dot
at the princess line to form the shoulder
dart. The dart pickup must not exceed.