Stoll

Stoll Training
Manual Flat Knitting Machine
Ident-No. 223 788_01 EN

Date: 17/01/2013
H.Stoll GmbH&Co. KG, Reutlingen
Content
1 Classification of Stitch Forming Machines ....................... 5
2 Terms and description of the machine.............................. 7

2.1 Terms: Gauge and nominal width ........................................................ 7
2.2 Description of the machine ................................................................... 9
2.3 Racking, needle classification in the racking ................................... 10
2.4 Yarn Tensioner ..................................................................................... 11
2.5 Sideview of the Needle Beds .............................................................. 12
2.6 Setting the Stitch Cams ....................................................................... 13
3 Stitch Forming by Latch Needles..................................... 15

3.1 Elements of the Stitch ......................................................................... 16
3.2 Binding Elements ................................................................................. 17
4 Single Jersey / Double Jersey.......................................... 19

4.1 Stitch Rows and Wales ........................................................................ 20
5 Introduction to the SINTRAL Programming Language.. 21
6 Designation of the Cams in the Carriage ........................ 23

6.1 Setting Example 1 ................................................................................ 24
6.2 Setting Example 2 ................................................................................ 25
6.3 Setting Example 3 ................................................................................ 26
6.4 Setting Example 4 ................................................................................ 27
6.5 Setting Example 5 ................................................................................ 28
6.6 Setting Example 6 ................................................................................ 29
6.7 Setting Example 7 ................................................................................ 30
6.8 Overview of Setting Options ............................................................... 31
7 Use of Stitch Cam Positions (NP) .................................... 33
8 Start with Comb ................................................................. 35
9 Overview of Basic Knitting Modes................................... 37

9.1 Tubular / DJ / half cardigan ................................................................. 38
9.2 Double Half Cardigan / Full Cardigan ................................................ 39
9.3 Double Full Cardigan / Half Milano / Colorful pattern ....................... 40
9.4 Knop / Tuck Pattern ............................................................................. 42
9.5 Half Cardigan Racked .......................................................................... 43
9.6 Full Cardigan Racked .......................................................................... 44
1
9.7 Heringbone ........................................................................................... 45
9.8 Milano Rib ............................................................................................. 46
10 Classification of the knitting patterns.............................. 47

10.1 Group I: Basic structures .................................................................... 48
10.2 Knitting process: Start 2x1 ................................................................. 49
10.3 Group II: Racking pattern .................................................................... 50
10.4 Procedure when transferring stitches ............................................... 52
10.5 Group III: Missing needle pattern ....................................................... 53
10.6 Group IV: Combinations ...................................................................... 54
10.7 Group V: Casting-off pattern ............................................................... 55
10.7.1 Group V: Stitch look I .............................................................................. 56
10.7.2 Group V: Stitch look II ............................................................................. 57
10.8 Use of draw thread when knitting ....................................................... 58
10.8.1 Transition with Draw Thread for 2x1 Start............................................... 60
10.8.2 Transition with Draw Thread for DJ Start and Tubular Start ................... 63
10.9 Group VI: Cable .................................................................................... 65
10.9.1 Stitch Line of 3x3< Cable ........................................................................ 68
10.10 Group VII: Pointelle .............................................................................. 69
10.10.1 Stitch Line of Pointelle ............................................................................ 71
10.11 Group VIII: Fully Fashion ..................................................................... 72
10.11.1 Stitch Ratio.............................................................................................. 74
10.11.2 Widening and Narrowing with Fully Fashion ........................................... 75
10.11.3 Widening Procedure by the Example of Single Jersey fabric ................. 77
10.11.4 Narrowing Procedure by the Example of Single Jersey.......................... 79
11 More Knitting Techniques................................................. 83

11.1 Knitting Technique: Jacquard ............................................................ 83
11.2 Knitting Technique: Intarsia ................................................................ 86
11.3 Knitting Technique: multi gauge ........................................................ 87
11.4 Knitting Technique: Knit and wear ..................................................... 88
11.5 Knitting Technique: Plating ................................................................ 89
11.6 Knitting Technique: Plush ................................................................... 90
11.7 Knitting Technique: Split ..................................................................... 91
11.8 Knitting Technique: Applications ....................................................... 93
11.9 Knitting Technique: Gore Technique ................................................. 94
12 Yarn ..................................................................................... 95
12.1 Natural Fibers ....................................................................................... 96
12.2 Synthetic Fibers ................................................................................... 99
12.3 Classification of Yarns ...................................................................... 101
12.4 Classification of Plied Yarns ............................................................. 102
2
12.5 Yarn Structure .................................................................................... 104
12.6 Yarn Count .......................................................................................... 106
12.6.1 By Length = count ................................................................................. 107
12.6.2 By Weight.............................................................................................. 110
12.6.3 Conversion Formulas............................................................................ 113
12.7 Yarn Table ........................................................................................... 114
12.8 Bobbin Types ..................................................................................... 116
3
4
Training of Manual Flat Knitting Machine
1 Classification of Stitch Forming Machines
1 Classification of Stitch Forming

Machines
Knitting machines Warp Knitting Machines
(Knitwear / Weft Knit) (Warp Knit / Weft Knit)
 individually driven needles  jointly driven needles
Single thread knitting machine Warp knitting machine Single thread warp knitting machines
(knitting machine) Warp thread feed lengthwise (Weft knitting machine)
Thread feed crosswise Thread feed crosswise
currently no construction type
Flat knitting Circular knitting ma- Cotton machine

machine chine
SJ DJ LL SJ DJ LL Single Jersey Double Jersey
 Small circular knitting machine  flat weft knitting machine

(Ø < 165 mm) (Cotton system)
 : Production of
– Cut goods
– Fully Fashion
 Small circular knitting machine
 Large circular knitting machine (Ø > 165 mm)
(rib and interlock machines)
 Small circular knitting machine
: Production of stockings, socks, technical items)
 Large circular knitting machine
: Production of cut goods (e.g. underwear, outer clothing)
 Manual flat knitting machine
 Motor-driven flat knitting machine
 Computer-controlled flat knitting machine (CMS)
 Production of:
– Cut goods
– semi-shaped fabric (with tight starts)
– Fully Fashion
5
1 Classification of Stitch Forming Machines
In the classification the construction types of the warp

machines are not considered in detail.
6
2 Terms and description of the machine
2 Terms and description of the

machine
2.1 Terms: Gauge and nominal width

Terms
 Gauge
Terms Meaning
Gauge E Number of needles per 1 English inch (= 2,54 cm) in one needle bed.
Needle bed gauge Number of needle bed tricks (= needles) per 1 English inch (= 25,4 mm)
Needle hook gauge = needle hook size in E
: For the 'standard' gauges the needle bed gauge = needle hook gauge.
Examples
Gauge E 5 Gauge E 10
Gauge E 5.2
(Multi-Gauge gauge)
7
 Gauge
Terms Meaning
Gauge t Distance [mm] between two needle tricks (grooves)
Calculation with the formula:
t = 25,4 mm / E
 Nominal width
Terms Meaning
Nominal = Total width of the needle bed (= working width) in inches
width Examples for nominal width at Stoll:
 45’’
 50’’
 72’’
 84’’
 96’’
8
2.2 Description of the machine

Elements of the manual knitting machine:
No. Label
1 Rail with yarn tensioner
2 Needle bed at the front - rear
3 Yarn carrier rails
4 Carriage
5 Yarn carrier plunger bolt
6 Racking lever (only the rear needle bed)
7 Adjustable stop point slider for limiting the racking (6 positions)
8 Machine frame
9
2.3 Racking, needle classification in the

racking
I. Explanation to racking:
Term Meaning
Racking V Move the rear needle bed to another position.
V0 Racking home position
0–1–2–3–4–5-6
V>1 Racking by one needle to the right
V<1 Racking one needle to the left
II. Needle classification in the racking home position V0:
Symbols Meaning
High butt needle
Low butt needle
Dropped needle (non-knitting needle)
III. Elements of the needle:
No. Label
1 Needle hook
2 Needle latch
3 Needle shaft
4 Needle butt
 High butt
 Low butt
10
2.4 Yarn Tensioner
No. Label
1 Disc brake
2 Tension arm
11
2.5 Sideview of the Needle Beds
No. Meaning
1 Needle beds
2 Needles
3 Brushes
: For opening the latches.
4 Yarn carrier tip
5 Yarn
12
2.6 Setting the Stitch Cams
No. Meaning
1 Nadelsenker (stitch cam)Positions for the front needle bed (NP)
2 Set screw for adjusting the stitch cam positions of the front needle bed
3 Lever (1-4) for the cams for the front needle bed
4 Value scale for the stitch cam positions
5 Indicator for the stitch tension
6 Nadelsenker Positionen (stitch cam positions) for the rear needle bed (NP)
7 Set screw for adjusting the stitch cam positions of the rear needle bed
8 Lever (5-8) for the cams of the rear needle bed
13
14
3 Stitch Forming by Latch Needles
No. Meaning
A Entry direction of the needle butt
B Carriage direction
C Knock-over edge
D Stitch cam (following)
1 Home position
2 Tuck position
3 Raising position (stitch formation)
4 Yarn inserting position
5 Knock-over position
15
3.1 Elements of the Stitch
K Stitch loop
S Stitch leg
F Stitch feet
B1 Binding points to the previous stitch
B2 Binding points to the following stitch
16
3.2 Binding Elements

Jersey stitch
Technologically right fabric side
Reverse jersey
Technologically reverse fabric side
Tuck
Technologically right fabric side Technologically reverse fabric side
Tuck on a needle in the front
needle bed
3x tuck on a needle in the front

needle bed
17
Float
Front float
Rear float
18
4 Single Jersey / Double Jersey

Single jersey fabric (RL)
Single-bed fabric
= single jersey fabric
All needle knit fabric (DJ)

Double-bed fabric
= Double jersey fabric
(without elongation)
Double-bed fabric
= Double jersey fabric
(with elongation)
19
4.1 Stitch Rows and Wales

Stitch row
Wale
20
5 Introduction to the SINTRAL Programming Language
5 Introduction to the SINTRAL

Programming Language
I. Knitting specifications
Knitting specifications for the carriage stroke from right to left
Sintral command << S: R – R; Y: 2; NP 1 – 2 S1
Knitting specifications for the carriage stroke from left to right
Sintral command >> S: FR – R; Y: 2; NP 2 – 2 S1
21
5 Introduction to the SINTRAL Programming Language
II. Commands in Sintral:
Sintral command Meaning

<< Carriage direction to the left
>> Carriage direction to the right
<> Carriage direction optional
S:…-…; Knitting specification

R All needles knit a stitch
F All needles knit a tuck
0 No knitting
FR High but needles knit stitch
Low but needles knit tuck
RH High but needles knit stitch
Low butt needles do not knit
FH High but needles knit tuck
Low butt needles do not knit
- Symbol for splitting the specification between front and rear
needle bed
; Symbol for ending a Sintral command
Y:…; Yarn Carrier Setting
RBEG Cycle start
REND Cycle end
REP x n Repetition start with repetition factor
REPEND Repetition end
22
6 Designation of the Cams in the Carriage
6 Designation of the Cams in the

Carriage
Rear cam plate
Front cam plate
Designation of the cams

Fixed cams
Stitch cams (needle sinker)
Tuck cams Lever 1 + 4 + 5 + 6
Raising cams Lever 2 + 7
Raising cams Lever 3 + 6
Casting-off cams
23
6.1 Setting Example 1
Legend
Down lever (on)
Halfway up lever
Up lever (off)
Stitch line Sintral command Lever position

< > S: R – R;
24
Legend
Down lever (on)
Halfway up lever
Up lever (off)

<< S: R – F;
>> S: F – R;
25
Legend
Down lever (on)
Halfway up lever
Up lever (off)

<< S: R – 0;
>> S: 0 – R;
26
Legend
Down lever (on)
Halfway up lever
Up lever (off)

<> S: RH – RH;
27
Legend
Down lever (on)
Halfway up lever
Up lever (off)

<> S: FH – R;
28
Legend
Down lever (on)
Halfway up lever
Up lever (off)

<> S: R – FR;
29
Legend
Down lever (on)
Halfway up lever
Up lever (off)

<> S: FR – R;
30
6.8 Overview of Setting Options

Cam box view:
Caution!
Cams (lever) 2 + 7 cannot be put out of action separately
since they are connected with the cams 3 + 6.
This means: If the levers 2 + 7 are up (out of action) the
levers 3 + 6 are automatically up as well.
31
Lever positions for different knitting specifications
Carriage Cam instruction Lever position

direction
< S: R – R; Lever 1+2 and 5+6 down
> Lever 3+4 and 7+8 down
< S: 0 – R; Lever 1 up
> Lever 4 up
< S: R – 0; Lever 5 up
> Lever 8 up
< S: F – R; Lever 2 up : up to 4 carriage strokes = 4 tuck loops
> Lever 3 up on needle
< S. R – F; Lever 6 up
> Lever 7 up
< S: RH – R; Lever 1 halfway up
> Lever 4 halfway up
< S: R – RH; Lever 5 halfway up
< S: FR – R; Lever 2 halfway up : up to 4 carriage strokes = 4 tuck loops
> Lever 3 halfway up on low butt needle
< S: R – FR; Lever 6 halfway up

< S: R – FH; Lever 5 halfway up + lever 6 up : up to 4 carriage strokes = 4 tuck loops
> Lever 8 halfway up + lever 7 up on high butt needle
< S: FH – R; Lever 1 halfway up + lever 2 up

> Lever 4 halfway up + lever 3 up
32
7 Use of Stitch Cam Positions (NP)

Stitch cam position 1 (NP1): tight
Knitting mode
Double Jersey All needles knit a stitch
F All needles knit a tuck
Net row Knitting on empty needles
Stitch cam position 2 (NP2): medium
Knitting mode
Combinations of double jersey, tuck and
single jersey
All racking patterns
Net row Start with comb
Stitch cam position 3 (NP3): loose
Knitting mode
Single jersey rows Not all the needles knit
Tubular
33
34
8 Start with Comb
8 Start with Comb

1) Stop carriage on the right at the reversion.
2) Select the desired yarn carrier (e.g. yarn carrier 1).
3) Activate all cams (= all levers 1-8 down) and set stitch cam position NP
2 - 2.
4) Move the carriage from right to left.
<< S: R – R;
5) Then the comb up between the needle beds.

6) Close the comb hook with wire and hang the weights.
7) Change the stitch cam position NP to 3 – 3 and knit one tubular course:
>> S: 0 – R;
<< S: R – 0;
8) Change the stitch cam position NP to 1 – 1.

9) Activate all cams (= all levers 1-8 down).
10) Move the carriage from left to right.
>> S: R – R;
11) Carry on with the desired basic structure.
35
8 Start with Comb
36
9 Overview of Basic Knitting Modes

No. Name of the basic structure
1 Tubular
2 Double Jersey
3 Half Cardigan
4 Double Half Cardigan
5 Full Cardigan
6 Double Full Cardigan
7 Half Milano / Half Tubular
8 Colorful pattern / Buntmuster
9 Knop
10 Fancy Stitch / Tuck Pattern
11 Half Cardigan Racked (with racking)
12 Full Cardigan Racked (with racking)
13 Heringbone
14 Milano Rib
37
9.1 Tubular / DJ / half cardigan

Tubular
<< S: 0 – R; Y:1; NP 3 - 3
>> S: R – 0;
Double Jersey (DJ)

<> S: R – R; Y:1; NP 1 - 1
Half Cardigan
<< S: R – F; Y:1; NP 2 - 1
>> S: R – R;
38
9.2 Double Half Cardigan / Full Cardigan

Double Half Cardigan
<< S: R – R; Y:1; NP 2 - 1
>> S: R – R;
<< S: R – F; Y:2;
>> S: R – F;
Full Cardigan / tuck

<< S: R – F; Y:1; NP 1 -1
>> S: F – R;
39
9.3 Double Full Cardigan / Half Milano /

Colorful pattern
Double Full Cardigan
<< S: R – F; Y:1; NP 1 - 1
>> S: R – F;
<< S: F – R; Y:2;
>> S: F – R;
Half Milano / Half Tubular

<< S: R – R; Y:1; NP 2 - 2
>> S: 0 – R;
40
Colorful pattern
REP x 4 Y:1; NP 2 - 2
<> S: R – R;
REPEND
REP x 4 Y:2;
<> S: RH – RH;
REPEND
41
9.4 Knop / Tuck Pattern

Knop
REP x 2 Y:1; NP 1 - 1
<> S: R – R;
REPEND
REP x 3
<> S: R - FH;
REPEND
REP x 2
<> S: R – R;
REPEND
REP x 3
<> S: R - FH;
REPEND
Tuck pattern
REP x 4 Y:1; NP 1 -1
<> S: FR – R;
REPEND
REP x 4 Y:2;
<> S: R – FR;
REPEND
42
9.5 Half Cardigan Racked

Half Cardigan Racked
<< S: R – F; Y:1; NP 2 - 2
Racking 0 – 1 (V>1) Move the racking lever from position 0 to 1

>> S: R – R;
<< S: R – F;
Racking 1 – 0 (V0) Move the racking lever from position 1 to 0

>> S: R – R;
43
9.6 Full Cardigan Racked

Full Cardigan Racked
<< S: R – F; Y:1; NP 2 - 2

>> S: F – R;
<< S: R – F;

>> S: F – R;
44
9.7 Heringbone
Heringbone
REP x 12
<< S: R – F; Y:1; NP 2 - 2

>> S: F – R;

REPEND
<< S: R – F;

>> S: F – R;
REP x 12
<< S: R – F;

>> S: F – R;

REPEND
<< S: R – F;

>> S: F – R;
45
9.8 Milano Rib

Milano Rib
<< S: 0 – R; Y:1; NP 2 - 2
>> S: R – 0;
<< S: R – R;
>> S: R – 0;
<< S: 0 – R;
>> S: R – R;
46
10 Classification of the knitting patterns
10 Classification of the knitting

patterns
Group Contents
I All patterns (basic structures) without special characteristics.
II Racking pattern without and with missing needle
III Missing needle pattern
IV Pattern combinations
V Casting-off pattern
VI Cable
VII Pointelle
VIII Fully Fashion
47
10.1 Group I: Basic structures

Basic structures  Double Jersey
 Tubular
 Half Milano
 Milano Rib
Structure with tuck  Half cardigan / double half cardigan

 Full cardigan / double full cardigan
Structures using different needle  Colorful pattern

types  Knop
 Fancy stitch
The basic structures can be knitted with plain color or with

color change.
48
10.2 Knitting process: Start 2x1

Before starting the knitting rack the needle bed into the racking position 1 (V>1)!
<< S: RH – RH; Y:1; NP 2 - 2

(Net row)
>> S: 0 – RH;
<< S: RH – 0;
Racking 1 - 0 (V0) Move the racking lever from position 1 to 0

RBEG x ?
<> S: RH – RH;
REND
>> S: 0 – R;
<< S: R – 0;
>> S: R – R;
49
10.3 Group II: Racking pattern

Without missing needle:
Front tuck - Rear stitch Front stitch - Rear tuck
Rack the rear needle bed V>1
Result:
Racked stitch Racked tuck
 Racking effect visible on the fabric back  Racking effect visible on the fabric front
 Racking can only be identified by the stitches!

 Stitch feet are pulled in racking direction by the racking movement, whereby the stitch loops tilt in the opposite
direction.
Course-related racking Row-related racking

Meaning:
Racking after every 2 stitch rows. Racking after every stitch row.
=> Racking effect will only be visible on one fabric side => Racking effect will be visible on both fabric sides
Related basic structures:

 Half cardigan racked  Heringbone
 Full cardigan racked
50
With missing needle:
No connection to the rear needle bed Connection to the rear needle bed
Result:
=> Racking effect will not be visible => Racking effect will be visible
=> Wales (MS) run straight => Wales (MS) zigzag
 If a wale is to zigzag an opposite needle must knit in the rear needle bed.
 If a wale is to run straight an opposite needle in the rear needle bed must not knit => drop needle.
Example with missing needles:
= missing needle
Rack the rear needle bed by one position V>1
51
10.4 Procedure when transferring stitches

Transfer = stitches are brought from one needle to another.
Sequence when transferring stitches

1st step:
1. Hook the eyed transfer needle (1) (inserted in the
transfer needle (2) in the needle hook of the needle to
be transferred (with stitch).
2. Move the eyed transfer needle upward until the stitch
is located behind the latch.
3. Move the eyed transfer needle downward until the
stitch is located on the guide needle.
4. Unhook the eyed transfer needle from the needle
hook.
2nd step:
1. Move the eyed transfer needle with the stitch carefully
to the desired position.
2. Hook the eyed transfer needle in the needle hook of
the desired needle.
3rd step:
1. Move the needle upward until the stitch of the eyed
transfer needle slides into the needle hook of the
needle hooked-in.
2. Unhook the eyed transfer needle from the needle
hook.
3. : At the new position of the transferred stitch there
are 2 stitches in needle hook now (double-stitch).
52
10.5 Group III: Missing needle pattern

Needle classification Used needle types
Needle classification with only :

one needle type  = High butt needle From a knitting technique point of view
there is no difference between high and low
 = missing needle butt needles.
Needle classification with two :
needle types  = High butt needle From a knitting technique point of view
there is a difference between high and low
 = Low butt needle butt needles.
 = missing needle
53
10.6 Group IV: Combinations

Pattern description
Pattern consisting (combined) of different knitting modes:

 Basic structures
 Drop needle
 Racking effect
 etc.
54
10.7 Group V: Casting-off pattern

The casting-off technique is performed via the casting-off
cam in the rear needle bed on manual knitting machines.
Condition: The basic fabric must be in the front needle bed.
(Single jersey fabric).
Casting-off cams
Standard position: Casting-off cams are up
:
Needles do not run through the casting-off cam
Casting-off cams are down
:
High butt / low butt needles run through the casting-off cam
Casting-off cams are halfway up
:
 High butt needles run through the casting-off cam
 Low butt needles do not run through the casting-off cam
Working The casting-off cams raise the needles until stitch formation, whereby no yarn feeding takes place.
procedure: : Knitting without yarn = casting-off.
55
10.7.1 Group V: Stitch look I
Stitch look in the basic fabric (single jersey fabric)
: After the start all stitches in the rear needle bed are transferred to the front!!!
<< S: R – R; Y:1; NP 3 - 3
>> S: R – R;
56
10.7.2 Group V: Stitch look II
Stitch look in the basic fabric (single jersey fabric)
: After the start all stitches in the rear needle bed are transferred to the front!!!
<< S: R – R; Y:1; NP 3 - 3
>> S: R – 0;
57
10.8 Use of draw thread when knitting

Use of draw thread:
A thread that is worked-in between two fabrics, which has to

be easily removable afterwards.
Application examples:
 Small pieces with reduced knitting height, e.g. collars, borders
 Use of knitting machines without comb take-down
: Fabrics are knitted together ('in warp') due to the fabric take-down and
the following finishing process 'damping'
 Use of knitting machines with comb take-down
– For the starting rows up to the net row of the fabric only
Draw thread types:

 Thread with very high tear resistance:
– Polyamide draw thread
– Polyester draw thread
: The thread will be pulled out after finishing

 Melting separation thread
– Material properties of the draw thread depend on the desired
melting temperature
: The thread is dissolved when damping the fabrics. Leaves residues.

 Metal draw thread
– Use in the area of technical textiles (e.g. Kevlar, glass fiber)
58
Pattern examples for the manual flat knitting machine
Graphic presentation No. Knitting sequence

1 Knitting start
 Start with Comb
2 2x1 start rib
3 Specified basic structures
4 Transition with draw thread for
 Tubular start
 DJ start
5 Tubular start
6 Transition with draw thread for the 2x1 start rib
7 2x1 start rib
59
10.8.1 Transition with Draw Thread for 2x1 Start
Last row of the previous fabric

>> S: R – R; Y:1; NP 2 - 2
<< S: R – 0; NP 3 - 2 Protective rows in the front

needle bed
:
After casting-off the stitches this
>> S: R – 0; prevents ladders
<< S: R – 0;
>> S: 0 – R; NP 2 – 2
<< S: R – 0; Y:0; NP 2 - 2 Casting-off stitches in the front

needle bed
=> Needles are empty
: Knitting without yarn
carrier => casting-off.
>> S: R – 0;
60
<< S: RH – R; Y:1; NP 1 - 1
>> S: 0 – R; NP 1 - 3 Protective rows in the rear

needle bed
:
After casting-off the stitches this
<< S: 0 – R; prevents ladders
>> S: 0 – R;
Knitting-in the draw thread

<< S: RH – R; Y:3; NP 2 - 2
>> S: RH – 0;
<< S: 0 – R; Y:0; Casting-off the protective rows

+ draw thread in the rear needle
bed
>> S: 0 – R;
Set racking from position 0 to 1 (V>1)

<< S: RH – RH; Y:1: NP 1 - 1 :
Net row of the new fabric
>> S: RH - 0; NP 2 - 2
<< S: 0 – RH;
61
Set racking from position 1 to 0 (V0)

REP x 20 Y:1; NP 2 - 2
<> S: RH – RH;
REPEND
>> S: 0 – R;
<< S: R – 0;
>> S: R – R;
62
10.8.2 Transition with Draw Thread for DJ Start

and Tubular Start
Last row of the previous fabric

>> S: R – R; Y:1; NP 2 - 2
<< S: R – 0; NP 3 - 2 Protective rows in the front

needle bed
:
After casting-off the stitches
this prevents ladders
>> S: R – 0;
<< S: R – 0;
>> S: 0 – R; NP 2 – 2
Knitting-in the draw thread

<< S: R – R; Y:3; NP 2 - 2
>> S: 0 – R;
<< S: R – 0; Y:0; Casting-off the protective rows

+ draw thread in the front
needle bed
: Knitting without yarn
>> S: R - 0;
carrier => casting-off.
63
<< S: R – R; Y:1: NP 1 - 1 :
Net row of the new fabric
>> S: R - 0; NP 2 - 2
Carry on in the cycle of the desired start!
64
10.9 Group VI: Cable

Knitting technique with cable stitch:
Cable stitch cross-overs are achieved by transferring
stitches.
Cable stitch cross-over to the left (crossed to the Cable stitch cross-over to the right (crossed to the
left) right)
Designation of cables
old  2 x 3 < (cross-over to the left)
 2 x 3 > (cross-over to the right)
 : The total width of the cable are 6 stitches (2 x 3 = 6), where 3 stitches are crossed over 3 stitches.
new  3x3<
 3x3>
 : The total width of the cable are 6 stitches (3+3 = 6), where 3 stitches are crossed over 3 stitches.
65
Cable examples
Cables 3x3< and 3x3> Cable 3x3< with rib
2x2> cable 2x2> cable with spread needle
3x3 cable with intarsia 3x1 Aran
66
Cable examples
Cable + Aran structure Aran structure
3x3 cable with spread needle 2x1 Aran
67
10.9.1 Stitch Line of 3x3< Cable
Last row 2x1 start

>> S: RH – RH; Y:1; NP2-2
Transfer of the stitches

according to the needle
classification and take-down
the needles
RBEG
REP x 7 NP3-3
<> S: R – R;
REPEND
In the area of the cable:

Activate needle 1, 3, 5 manually
>> S: R – R; NP3-3
In the area of the cable:

Needle 1, 3, 5 manually cast-off
the tuck
Transferring the stitches in the

cable stitch cross-over area
REP x 4 NP3-3
<> S: R – R;
REPEND
REND
68
10.10 Group VII: Pointelle

Knitting technique pointelle:
Transferring individual stitches, needles will be free, which
then are picked-up again through the subsequent knitting
(= tuck). At this position results a hole = pointelle
Fabric view of Pointelle
Stitches will be transferred to the left Stitches will be transferred to the right
=> on the left referring to the emptied needle => on the right referring to the emptied needle (= pointelle)
(=pointelle) results a double stitch results a double stitch
69
Examples of Pointelle
70
10.10.1 Stitch Line of Pointelle
Stitch Line of Pointelle in knitting direction
7 REPx2
<> S: R – 0;
REPEND
6 Transfer of stitches at the desired position

(=pointelle)
5 REPx2
<> S: R – 0;
REPEND

(=pointelle)
3 REPx2
<> S: R – 0;
REPEND

(=pointelle)
1 REPx2 Y: 1; NP 3-3
<> S: R – 0;
REPEND
Last row of the 2x1 rib with transfer of the

stitches to the front
71
10.11 Group VIII: Fully Fashion

Fully Fashion knitwear
= a shaped fabric produced with single or double bed
knitting mode.The shaping results via narrowing, binding-off
and widening of stitches at the selvedges.
Fixed edges are the result where no stitches can run.
Standard shapes
Raglan
Saddle shoulder
Inserted sleeve
French Shoulder
72
Components of a pullover
Front piece Without neckline The collar will be sewed on

 Stand-up collar
 Turtleneck, etc.
 : If necessary a gore will be knitted in the front.
With neckline  V-neck
 Round neck neckline
 Boat neck neckline
 Other neckline variants
Back piece : If necessary a gore will be knitted in the back.
Sleeve  Long sleeve
 Short sleeve
73
10.11.1 Stitch Ratio
A stitch ratio is needed to convert a dimensionally accurate

shape (mm / cm / inch) into a stitch accurate shape
(stitches).
Determining the stitch ratio:

 Knit a test fabric with the following conditions:
– Select the desired machine gauge
– Use the desired yarn
– Knit the desired structure (single or double jersey structure)
– Knit the fabric with the desired stitch tension (stitch length)
 Calculate the Stitch ratio:
– In the test fabric mark an area with the desired measure unit (mm /
cm / inch).
– In this area count the number of stitches in terms of width and height
(rows)
Conversion of a dimensionally accurate shape into a stitch accurate

shape:
 Formula for the height:
Counted number of stitches in height per length unit x total height of the
dimensionally accurate shape = total stitch number in height (= rows)
 Formula for the height:
Counted number of stitches in width per length unit x total width of the
dimensionally accurate shape = total number of stitches in width
(wales).
74
10.11.2 Widening and Narrowing with Fully Fashion
Shaping by widening / narrowing
1 Widening Enlarging the knitting width

2 Narrowing Reducing the knitting width
: The transfer of stitches results in double
stitches
= Fully fashion marking (fashioning marks)
75
Step height and step width when widening / narrowing
Widening
1 Step width
: Widening always only 1 needle
2 Step height
= Number of rows between two widenings
: Step height is as desired
Narrowing
1 Step width
 1 needle narrowing
: Step widths of more than 3 stitches are bind-off.
2 Step height
= Number of rows between two narrowings
: Step height is as desired
76
10.11.3 Widening Procedure by the Example of

Single Jersey fabric
Widening
Widening onto an empty needle = tuck
:
A widening at the left edge is shifted in height by 1 row
when knitting with a manual knitting machine.
The widening is stroke-depending and therefore the
yarn insertion (=tuck) is more secure.
77
Widening by transferring stitches by one needle outward = pointelle (without closing)
:
The hole (=pointelle) that resulted from transferring
stitches outward (stitch group = widening width) can
also be closed by knitting + transferring a tuck. (=
Widening with Closing-Stitch)
78
10.11.4 Narrowing Procedure by the Example of

Single Jersey
Narrowing
1 needle narrowing underneath
1 needle narrowing above
79
2 needles narrowing underneath
3 needles narrowing underneath
80
Binding-off (to the right >>)
81
82
11 More Knitting Techniques
11.1 Knitting Technique: Jacquard

Knitting technique Jacquard
Continuous Jacquards produce a picture (picture side) on the fabric front, whereby the fabric back is needed to knit
the used colors.
: Up to 6 colors per jacquard area can be knitted.
Possible jacquard backs:

Float Jacquard On the fabric back the colors are not knit, but
(single jersey fabric) instead they are guided from A to B by floats.
Jacquard with stripe back Each jacquard color is worked on all needles on
(Double jersey fabric) the rear needle bed.
Jacquard with twill back The jacquard colors are knitted racked in 1x1 on
(Double jersey fabric) the rear needle bed.
83
Jacquard with ladder back full Jacquard with 2 colors = cross-tubular

(Double jersey fabric) : The fabric has two picture sides with
exchanged colors.
1x1 On the rear needle bed the jacquard back will be

knitted as twill on every second needle.
: Appropriate back when using 4 and more
colors.

knitted as twill on every 3rd needle.
colors.

knitted as twill on every 4th needle.
colors.
Jacquard relief (transfer)

(Double jersey fabric)
with stripe back On the picture side (front) reverse jersey will be
visible in one area (= jacquard color) This
jacquard color is used for transferring and will not
be knitted anymore.
: Number of jacquard colors minus 1 = actual
number of jacquard colors
with twill back
with ladder back full
84
Examples
Intarsia with positioned jacquard back

In case of multicolored intarsia motifs jacquards are also
used, which will be positioned only in the area of the motif.
85
11.2 Knitting Technique: Intarsia

Intarsia knitting technique
Intarsia patterns are generally single jersey, multicolored
fabrics. According to its structure technique, the color areas are
connected for example with a tuck since each area is knitted
with a separate yarn carrier (= intarsia yarn carrier).
: A maximum of 31 colors in each pattern row is possible!
86
11.3 Knitting Technique: multi gauge

multi gauge
With the multi gauge gauges (e.g. E 5.2, E 6.2, etc.) one can:
 cover different gauge ranges (= Flexible Gauge)
 achieve different looks (fine / coarse) within one pattern row (= multi gauge)
based on intarsia
Flexible Use:
This means that it is possible to
produce fabrics with a look from
fine up to coarse with one
machine.
: A complete stitch row is
knitted with one look.
multi gauge knitting technique

This technique is based on
intarsia knitting technique for
what the use of intarsia yarn
carriers is necessary.
: Different gauges (visual
effects) are knitted within one
pattern row.
87
11.4 Knitting Technique: Knit and wear

Knitting technique Knit and Wear
According to its knitting technique, front, back and sleeves are knitted (manufactured ready to wear)
on the machine => no make-up necessary
 Minor finishing necessary
 Then generally finishing (washing) needed
 With intarsia
 Further Possibilities:
– With pockets
– Different neckline solutions
– Structures
88
11.5 Knitting Technique: Plating

Plating technique
When plating two threads are inserted in the needle hook.
Types of plating:
 Color plating: Patterning effect
 Elastane plating: Manufacturing elastic fabrics
1 Plating yarn
2 Basic yarn
Color Plating
Elastane plating
 Use in the start: more elastic rib
 Use in complete article: for fashionable, tight fitting fabrics
89
11.6 Knitting Technique: Plush

Plush
= formation of thread loops
: For knitting plush special cams are to be assembled in the CMS.

 Complete piece in plush
 Plush placed according to the pattern
 Plush with intarsia knitting technique
 Plush with multi gauge (coarse and fine areas with plush
look)
90
11.7 Knitting Technique: Split

Split technique
Dividing stitches to avoid hole formation
91
 With Jacquards close the start stitch with transfer

(relief)
 Close the hole (pointelle) in case of inclined running

stitch groups
92
11.8 Knitting Technique: Applications

Applications
 Open / closed waves
 Knops
 All sorts of pockets
93
11.9 Knitting Technique: Gore Technique

Gore technique
Knitting wedges (gores) and counter-wedges, whereby the structure in between runs inclined then.
94
12 Yarn
12 Yarn
Definition of the concept:
Yarn = single yarn
Linear formation, which is produced from textile fibrous material (spinning

fiber, filaments or tape).
Single yarn
This concept is used to describe a yarn without plying or
twisting.
95
12 Yarn
12.1 Natural Fibers

Vegetable fiber (plant fiber) cellulosic fiber materials
Seed fibers Cotton CO
Kapok KP
Bast fibers Linen (flax) LI
Hemp CA
Jute JU
Ramie RA
Hard fibers Sisal SI
Manila (Abaca) AB
Coconut CC
Animal fibers - protein fibres

Wool Wool WO
Fleece wool WV
(lamb's wool)
Fine animal hairs Alpaca WP
Llama WL
Vicuna WG
96
12 Yarn
Camel WK
Angora WA
Mohair WM
Cashmere WS
Guanaco WU
Yak WY
97
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Coarse animal hair Bovine HR
Horsehair HS
Goat HZ
Silk Silk (cultivated silk) SE

Tussah silk ST
(wild silk)
Mineral fibres
derived from rocks Asbestos AS
Glass fiber GL
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12.2 Synthetic Fibers

Chemical fibers from natural raw material
Cellulose Fibers Rayon
Viscose VI
Modal MD / CMD
Lyocell CLY
Cupro fibers CU / CUP
Acetate fibers CA / AC
Bamboo
Alignate fibers ALG
Caoutchouc LA
Synthetic fibers of man made raw materials (Synthetics)

Acrylic Dralon PC
Dorlan
Dunova
Polyamide Nylon PA
Perlon
Tactel
Meryl
Aramid AR
Polyurethane Elasthan PU
Lycra
Dorlastan
Creora
Polychloride CLF
Polyvinyl chloride Leavil PVC
Clevyl
Rhovyl
Polyester Trevira PES
Diolen
Elite (elastic) PBT
Polyolefin Polypropylene PP
 Meraklon
 Vegon
Polyethylene PE
 Vestolan
99
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Inorganic textile fabrics

Glass
Carbon fibers CF
Metal fibers ME / MTF Lurex
Gold
Silver
Stainless steel
100
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12.3 Classification of Yarns

Yarns
Single yarns Plied yarns Twisted yarns
= plied yarn
: : :
Yarn without plying or twisting At least two yarns that are All linear textile formations
wound together but not produced by twisting
twisted together. (twining) together at least
two yarns.
Spun fiber yarns Filament yarns
: These yarns result twisting : Filament yarns are
together staple fibres yarns from continuous
(spinning) by mechanic fibers (filaments) that are
means. spun by the silkworm or by
chemical technical means.
 Monofilament = one
Staple fibers from: filament
 Cotton / linen  Multifilament:
 Wool – Twistless multifila-
 Florette silk / Bourette silk ment
 Broken / cut synthetic fibers
–
– Twisted multifilament
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12 Yarn
12.4 Classification of Plied Yarns

Plied Yarns
All linear textile formations that are produced by twisting together (plying) at least two single yarns.
Properties:
 Higher tensile strength
 Homogeneity in the cross section
Folded yarn Cabled yarn

 Production with one plying process  Production out of at least two plying processes
 Consisting of folded and/or cabled yarns
: Single yarns can also be used.
Two-ply yarn Multiple-ply yarn

Folded yarn from two single All folded yarns from more
yarns than two single yarns.
2-cabled yarn
Three ply yarn 4 ply yarn 6 ply yarn 6 ply yarn
Four ply yarn
Three ply cable

8 ply
102
12 Yarn
Core spun yarn (special yarns)

Core spun yarn results by spinning around (twining) a core yarn (1) (core) with fibers /
yarns.
 Production of elastic fabric from cover spun plied yarn with elastic core (Elastane)
103
12 Yarn
12.5 Yarn Structure

The structure of the yarn is defined by:
 Count
 Number of filaments
 Twisting direction
 Twist
 Plying
I. Count:
Quotient resulting from mass / length of a yarn

 By Length = count
– Nm
– Ne
 By Weight
– tex / dtex
– den
II. Number of filaments:
Identification f = number of single filaments in a filament yarn
Example: dtex 24 f 12
: The yarn consists of 12 single fibers which together have the yarn gauge
of 24 dtex.
The result is that the fiber gauge (single titer) is 2 dtex.
Formula:Yarn count / Number of single filaments = gauge of the single

filaments
104
12 Yarn
III. Twisting direction
Label Meaning
Z-twist Individual spinning fibers or filaments in a vertically held yarn appear to cross in
the direction as the diagonal of a letter Z (= clockwise twisted).
Valid also for:
 single yarns / pre-plies in the plied yarn
 single or plied yarns
 plied yarns in the over-ply yarn
S-twist Individual spinning fibers or filaments in a vertically held yarn appear to cross in
the direction as the diagonal of a letter S (= counter-clockwise twisted).
 Valid also for:
 single yarns / pre-plies in the plied yarn
 single or plied yarns
 plied yarns in the over-ply yarn
IV. Twist:
Number of twists of a single yarn (plied yarn) in relation to 1 m length.
Marking t = twists per 1 m
Yarns (plied yarns) in the flat knitting domain almost have a

low number of twists:
(300 up to 600/m max.)
Exceptions: Special / effect plied yarn, e.g. slub, knop or
loop yarn
V. Plying:
At least two or more single or plied yarns are feeded together, but not
twisted (= twined).
105
12 Yarn
12.6 Yarn Count

Yarn classification
= yarn identification depending on its thickness
by length = count by weight = titer
: Reference value is a permanent weight. : Reference value is a permanent length.
Formula: Yarn number = length / weight Formula: Titer = weight in grams multiplied by
determined length / length in meters
: The higher the number, the finer the yarn. : The higher the number, the thicker the yarn.
106
12 Yarn
12.6.1 By Length = count
By length = count:
The yarn gauge is determined by the number of length units

per weight unit.
 Metric number Nm:

Nm = Length in meters per 1g
 English Cotton count Ne / NeC:
(Number english Cotton)
Ne = Length in meters x 453,59 / weight in Grams x 768,10
Label Meaning
NeC English Cotton count: = Ne
: Standard commercial designation for handicraft yarns and
sewing threads.
NeW Worsted count (English Wool count)
extension W (worsted wool)
: Outdated additional specification, in case of likelihood of
confusion.
NeL Lea count (English Linen count)
: Outdated additional specification, in case of likelihood of
confusion.
107
12 Yarn
Example for the designation of the yarns:
Yarn Type Presentation Designation of the yarns Abbreviated

Example designation
(Final count)
Single yarns Nm 24 Z 660 Nm 24
(Spinning fibers)  Nm = Metric number
 24 = weigh 24 meter of yarn 1g
 Twisting single yarn with Z-twist
 660 = number of twists in 1m
Plied yarns 1. Same yarns: 2 x Nm 50 S 900 2 x Nm 50

 2 x = two yarns are processed parallel together (Nm 25)
 Twisting single yarn with S-twist
Different yarns: Nm 40 S 800 + Nm 50 Z 900 Nm 40 + Nm 50
 + = Connection of the two specifications of the (Nm 22)
respective single yarns
Folded yarns Same yarns: Nm 20 S 800 /2 Z 600 Nm 20 /2

 /2 = two plied yarns are twisted together (Nm 10)
– each initial plied yarn has Nm 20 with S twist
– the final plied yarn has Nm 20/2 = Nm10 with Z
twist
Same yarns: Nm 60 S 800 /3 Z 600 Nm 60/3

 /3 = three plied yarns are twisted together (Nm 20)
– each initial plied yarn has Nm 60 with S-twist
– the final plied yarn has Nm 60/3 = Nm 20 with Z-
twist
:
The twisting direction of the final plied yarn is normally opposite to the twisting
direction of the single yarns or of the initial plied yarn.
108
12 Yarn

Example designation
(Final count)
Cabled yarns Two ply cable Same yarns: Nm 60 S 700 /2 S 500/3 Z 200 Nm 60 / 2 / 3
 Specification of the initial plied yarn before the (Nm 10)
first cabling step
– Nm 60 S 700 /2 = Yarn thickness of the two initial-
ly plied yarns with S-twist and the twisting number
 Specification of the plied yarns before the 2nd
cabling step
– S 500/3 = three plied yarns with S-twist with the
twisting number
 Specification for final plied yarn
– Z 200 = Final plied yarns with S-twist with the
twisting number
The gauge of the plied yarns are specified without taking

into account the twist contraction.
109
12 Yarn
12.6.2 By Weight
By Weight = Titer:
The yarn gauge is determined by the number of weight units

per length unit.
 New system tex (Tt)

tex = Weight in Grams per 1000m (1km)
 Decitex (dtex)
dtex = Weight in Grams per 10.000m
: dtex = 1/10 tex
 International silk titer Denier (den):
Titer den = Weight in Grams per 9000m
Example for the designation of the yarns:

Examples designation
(Final count)
Single yarns Spinning fibers 40 tex Z 660 40 tex
 40 = 1000 meter yarn weigh 40g
 tex = Gauge (length related mass)
 Twisting of the single yarn with Z-twist
 660 = Number of twists in 1m
Filaments 140 dtex f40 S 1000 140 dtex

 140 dtex = 10.000 m yarn weigh 140g (Single titer = 3,5
 f40 = 40 single filaments are in the filament dtex)
 S 1000 = Filament with S-twist and 1000 twists in
1m
Plied yarns 1. Same yarns: 40 dtex S 115 x 2 t0 40 dtex x 2 t0

 40 dtex = 10,000 meter yarn weigh 40g (80 dtex = 8 tex)
 S 115 = Single yarn with S-twist and number of
twists in 1m
 x2 = two yarns will be knit together (plied, not
twisted)
 t0 = Specification in case of plied yarns or filaments
without specification of the twisting direction.
110
12 Yarn

Examples designation
(Final count)
Folded yarns Same yarns: 110 dtex S 117 x2 Z 670 110 dtex x2
 110 dtex = 10.000m yarn weigh 110g (220 dtex = 22 tex)
 S 117 x2 = Single yarn / initial plied yarn have every
one 110 dtex with S-twist and 117 twists in 1m
 Z 670 = Final plied yarn has 220 dtex = 22 tex with
Z-twist and 670 twists in 1m
Same yarns: 40 tex S 600 x3 Z 400 40 tex x3

 x3 = three plied yarns are twisted together (120 tex)
– each initial plied yarn has 40 tex with S-twist and
600 twists
– Final plied yarn has 40 tex x3 = 120 tex with Z-
twist and 400 twists
:
The twisting direction of the final plied yarn is normally opposite to the
twisting direction of the single yarns or of the initial plied yarn.
Cabled yarns Two ply cable Same yarns: 20 tex S 700 x2 S 500 x3 Z 200 20 tex x2 x3
 Specification of the initial plied yarn before the (120 tex)
1st cabling step
– 20 tex S 700 x2 = Yarn thickness of the two ini-
tially plied yarns with S-twist and the twisting
number
 Specification of the plied yarns before the 2nd
cabling step
– S 500 x3 = three plied yarns with S-twist and the
twisting number
 Specification for final plied yarn
– Z 200 = Final plied yarns with S-twist and the
twisting number
The gauge of the plied yarns are specified without taking

into account the twist contraction.
If the twist contraction is taken into account this is called
Resulting gauge In front of the yarn designation the
specification R is added.
Example: Folded yarn 110 dtex x2, the resulting gauge R
225 dtex /2.
111
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112
12 Yarn
12.6.3 Conversion Formulas
I. Conversion from ‚Nm’ or ‚Ne’ to ‚tex’:

 tex = 1000 / Nm
 Nm = 1000 / tex
 tex = 590 / Ne
II. I. Conversion from ‚dtex’ to ‚den’:

 den = Grams (g) / 9000m
 dtex = Grams (g) / 10000m
 dtex = 10 / 9 den
 den = 9 / 10 dtex
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12.7 Yarn Table

The specified values serve as a guideline. The quality and the specific
weight of a yarn must also be taken into account. Instead of a simple yarn,
we recommend twisted yarn. With coarser machines it is advisable to use
several twisted threads.
Yarn table: Allocation of machine gauge and yarn thickness
Gauge assembled processing [Nm] Final count [Nm]
Yarn thickness of the

Several fine threads are assembled
assembled threads
and fed as a thick yarn to the yarn
Example: 6 x 16/2
carrier.
16/2=8
8:6=1,33
2 6 x 16/2 1,2 - 1,4
2.5 6 x 18/2 1,3 - 1,6
3 5 x 18/2 1-2
3 m.3L 15 x 20/2 0,65 - 1
3.5 6 x 24/2 1,4 - 2,5
4 5 x 24/2 1,4 - 3
6 x 34/2
5 4 x 24/2 3 - 4,5
4 x 34/2
7 2 x 22/2 4,5 - 7
2 x 28/2
8 2 x 24/2 6-8
2 x 34/2
10 2 x 36/2 8 - 12
1 x 24/2
12 1 x 24/2 10 - 18
2 x 44/2
14 1 x 28/2 14 - 20
2 x 40/1
16 1 x 48/2 20 - 30
1 x 54/2
1 x 60/2
18 1 x 54/2 20 - 40
1 x 60/2
1 x 80/2
20 1 x 80/2 20 - 40
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Gauge assembled processing [Nm] Final count [Nm]

2,5.2 3 x 28/2 3 - 4,5
(all needles) 2 x 14/2
2,5.2 m.4L All needles: 3 x 28/2 Nm 3 – 4,5
Every 2nd needle: 8 x 28/2 Nm 1,3 - 2
Every 2nd needle with cast-off 1,1
technique: maximum 13 x 28/2 Nm
2,5.2 (CMS 830 C) 3 x 14/2 1-2
(each 2nd needle) 6 x 14/2
2,5.2 3 x 14/2 1,3 - 2
3,5.2 2 x 28/2 4,5 - 7
3,5.2 3 x 14/2 1,5 - 2,5
3,5.2 m.4L All needles: 3 x 28/2 Nm 4,5 – 7
Every 2nd needle: 7 x 28/2 Nm 1,5 – 2,5
Every 2nd needle with cast-off 1,5
technique: maximum 9 x 28/2 Nm
5.2 1 x 20/2 8 - 12
5.2 3 x 28/2 3 - 4,5
6.2 2 x 44/2 10 - 16
6.2 2 x 28/2 4,5 - 7
7.2 1 x 28/2 14 - 20
7.2 2 x 28/2 6-8
8.2 1 x 50/2 15 - 25
8.2 2 x 50/2 10 - 12
9.2 1 x 40/2 20 - 30
9.2 2 x 40/2 10 - 16
2 x 60/2
3 x 60/2
115
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12.8 Bobbin Types

Well wound is half the knitting!
When is rewinding necessary?

 Quality is not enough for effective further processing
 Quality is not enough for the quality of the final result
 The bobbin type does not correspond to the requirements of further
processing
Appropriate bobbin types: Cross-wound bobbin with cross winding
Bobbin Types
Conical cross-wound bobbin Cylindrical cross-wound bobbin
Front side straight Front side at an angle
 Yarn unwinding direction to the top  Yarn unwinding direction to the top possible but not optimal
=> The bobbin does not rotate => The bobbin does not rotate
: When unwinding, the thread is "plucked" => Yarn breakage!
 Recommendation: Rewind on conical cross-wound bobbins.
Advantages:
 high unwinding speeds are possible (ballooning)
 great capacity (bobbin size) possible
 Winding density decreases from inside out
 Overhead yarn unwinding => no additional friction (friction should be even)
Disadvantages
 Due to the winding around the bobbin when unwinding, the yarns looses their torsion => the yarn gets untwisted
 The yarn unwinding force increases as the unwinding process empties the bobbin => consequence on the
dimensions of the fabrics (smaller)
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Winding modes for cross-wound bobbins
Random winding (uncontrolled winding) Precision winding

The random winding has the same crossing In case of the precision winding
angle with all bobbin diameters. The winding the crossing angle gets smaller as
number decreases as the bobbin diameter the bobbin diameter increases.
increases. With an increasing bobbin The winding number remains
diameter the distances between the windings constant.
get narrower and overlap (ribbon winding),
then they get wider and again narrower.
Advantages:  well dyeable  good unwinding
 Winding process less costly (cost-
effective)
Disadvantages  poor unwinding  Winding process more costly
(expensive)
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118

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Stoll Training

Manual Flat Knitting Machine

Ident-No. 223 788_01 EN

1 Classification of Stitch Forming Machines ....................... 5

2 Terms and description of the machine.............................. 7

3 Stitch Forming by Latch Needles..................................... 15

4 Single Jersey / Double Jersey.......................................... 19

5 Introduction to the SINTRAL Programming Language.. 21

6 Designation of the Cams in the Carriage ........................ 23

7 Use of Stitch Cam Positions (NP) .................................... 33

8 Start with Comb ................................................................. 35

9 Overview of Basic Knitting Modes................................... 37

10 Classification of the knitting patterns.............................. 47

11 More Knitting Techniques................................................. 83

1 Classification of Stitch Forming Machines

1 Classification of Stitch Forming

currently no construction type

Flat knitting Circular knitting ma- Cotton machine

SJ DJ LL SJ DJ LL Single Jersey Double Jersey

 Small circular knitting machine  flat weft knitting machine

In the classification the construction types of the warp

2 Terms and description of the machine

2 Terms and description of the

2.1 Terms: Gauge and nominal width

2 Terms and description of the machine

2.2 Description of the machine

2.3 Racking, needle classification in the

II. Needle classification in the racking home position V0:

Low butt needle

Dropped needle (non-knitting needle)

III. Elements of the needle:

2 Terms and description of the machine

2.4 Yarn Tensioner

2.5 Sideview of the Needle Beds

2 Terms and description of the machine

2.6 Setting the Stitch Cams

3 Stitch Forming by Latch Needles

3 Stitch Forming by Latch Needles

3.1 Elements of the Stitch

3 Stitch Forming by Latch Needles

3.2 Binding Elements

3x tuck on a needle in the front

4 Single Jersey / Double Jersey

4 Single Jersey / Double Jersey

All needle knit fabric (DJ)

4.1 Stitch Rows and Wales

5 Introduction to the SINTRAL Programming Language

5 Introduction to the SINTRAL

Knitting specifications for the carriage stroke from right to left

Sintral command << S: R – R; Y: 2; NP 1 – 2 S1

Knitting specifications for the carriage stroke from left to right

Sintral command >> S: FR – R; Y: 2; NP 2 – 2 S1

II. Commands in Sintral:

Sintral command Meaning

S:…-…; Knitting specification

6 Designation of the Cams in the Carriage

6 Designation of the Cams in the

Front cam plate

Designation of the cams