Tetela Recipe From "Masa"

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Tetela

A stuffed, sealed triangular envelope that loosely resembles a small crêpe

ROOTS: Mexico
FORMAT: Stuffer and topper
COOKING METHOD: Comal

The word tetela is a combination of the Nahuatl words tetl (“hill”) and tla (“many”), which translates as “place of
many hills.” There are several towns throughout Mexico bearing this name—such as Tetela (Oaxaca), Tetela de
Ocampo (Puebla), and Tetela del Volcán (Morelos)—where hills and mountains indeed mark the landscape, but
where the eponymous dish is notably absent. All accounts seem to indicate that tetelas originated somewhere in
Oaxaca, specifically in the Mixteca region, though they are also served in Puebla by the name memelas. The tetela
name is most likely a reference to the tetela’s peaked, triangular shape, which bears resemblance to a one-
dimensionally drawn symbol for mountain.

Tetelas can be filled with just about anything, but most commonly with refried beans and topped with crema,
queso fresco, and/or salsa.

INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the comal to medium-high heat. Roll a ping-pong-size ball (about 1½ in [4 cm]) of Table Tortilla Masa.
Following instructions for a Table Tortilla, press the ball into a tortilla, remove the top plastic liner, and spread a bit
of filling across the center. To shape the tetela, with the plastic liner squared as you face the tortilla, lift the top
right corner of the plastic and fold it with the right edge of the tortilla to a 45-degree angle, creating a pointed tip
at the top of the tortilla. Repeat on the left side. Finally, grasp the lower center of the plastic liner and fold the
remaining flap over to create a well-defined, straight-edged triangle.

There should be little to no exposure of the filling through the seams, ensuring that the contents are well enclosed.

Lower the comal to medium heat. Place the tetela seam-side up on the comal. Cook for 4 to 6 minutes per side,
until cooked through the center with a slight char on each side. You can test for doneness with a cake tester, if
you’d like, though I prefer testing by feel. When pressed down, the tetela shouldn’t give or bounce much—it
should feel like a well-done steak, indicating a dense interior. As with a tlacoyo, I love a tetela with a chewy, crispy
crust (sometimes called bark) with a contrasting molten center.

No extra fat is needed to cook a tetela, but a little bit applied directly to the tetela toward the last minute of
cooking is never something I regret. I’ll use whatever I have around, from bacon fat to schmaltz to ghee. These are
best served warm.

Storage: A fresh-cooked tetela is best enjoyed immediately, but can be stored (without toppings) for up to 7 days
refrigerated or 1 year frozen. A little bit of water rubbed on either side of the tetela will help replenish any
moisture lost during storage, prior to reheating on a comal.

Reprinted from Masa by Jorge Gaviria with permission from Chronicle Books, 2022. Photographs © Graydon
Herriott.

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