How to Brew 5 Gallons of Beer

If you can boil water and follow simple directions, you can brew fresh, natural, delicious beer at home. Please read each section
completely on brewing before you start. Fresh homemade beer is like homemade bread–the difference is, it gets better with age.

The Making of the Wort ladling hot water from your brew pot into quickly chilling the hot wort is to place
! 1. If you are using liquid malt extract, the can and swirling it around to get it all. the pot with the hot wort into a sink and
put the unopened cans in hot water. If you When using DME, open the bag all the way fill the sink with ice and water. Keep the
are using dry malt extract, do not open un- across so you can get it out quickly before it pot covered, but do not put a tight-fitting
til step 5. Malt extract is the stickiest stuff liquefies in the bag. While adding the malt cover on because it will be sucked in as
on Earth; be careful not to make a mess. stir constantly to avoid scorching the ex- in canning. Circulate the water by adding
Start thinking on where you are going to tract and assist in dissolving it. This mix- ice and stirring until the wort cools below
get two cases of brown, non-twist off ture is called “wort,” and you are going to 80°F - about an hour, which is more than
bottles–it could be ready to bottle within boil it for one hour. If you are using hopped enough time to sanitize and hydrate the
a week. It sometimes is better to get bigger extract your total boiling time is 20 min., yeast as per instructions on the packet.
bottles (or kegs) because the bigger they you still can add flavoring and aroma hops.
are the easier to clean and fill. Sanitizing is a term homebrewers should
! 2. Fill a pot 12 quarts (3 gal.) or more Hops are cone-like. There are different kinds know about. Most kits come with a cleanser
half full with clean water and turn the heat of hops that impart different flavors and levels which breaks down organic deposits, but
on medium-low. of compound necessary to give bitterness to does not kill microbial life which a sanitizer
counteract the sweetness of the malt. This does. If you are using One-Step or B-Brite
Specialty Grains are small quantities of is what is referred to as balance in beer. they should be fine for the first time brewing
malted barley of different varieties or small Some beers are made with different styles since bacteria and wild yeast have no reason
quantities of adjuncts such as roasted bar- of hops; while others use only one type of to hang out on new plastic. The directions
ley, maize, flaked oats etc. When used in hop in the brew. Apart from that there are are 1 tablespoon per gallon of water with
brewing, these specialty grains can enhance three terms used to describe different times a 10 minute soak time, rinse and drip dry.
color, flavor, texture, head retention. at which hops are added to the boil. When If you want an economical cleanser/sanitizer
the wort just starts to boil, these hops are use regular unscented bleach—follow the
known as boiling or bittering hops because previous instructions.
! 3. If you are using already hopped extract, the longer a hop is in the boil the more
or not using specialty grains go to step 5. bitterness it will impart to the beer. When
If the grains are already milled, go to the the hop is added past the middle of the boil, ! 10. Sanitize the primary (the larger bucket),
next step. Otherwise, take the grains out of it is known as the flavor hop because it lid, airlock, hydrometer, test jar (tube hy-
the package and place them in a large paper imparts both flavor and some bitterness to drometer came in), and racking tube (long
or plastic bag. Gently roll a large bottle or the beer. Lastly, when a hop is added in the rigid plastic tube with cup valve on the
rolling pin across the grains, just enough last few minutes (or later in the secondary as a end–not the spring loaded bottle filler).
to crack the husks. Do not pulverize! dry hop) is known as the aroma or finishing
! 4. Place the crushed grains into the hop and it imparts only a “nose” to the beer. Primary Fermentation
muslin bag (or cheesecloth) and securely ! 1. Pour or rack the chilled wort into the
tie the end to create a “tea bag” of grains. sanitized fermenting bucket or carboy
Place the tea bag in the hot water (some- ! 6. Bring the wort to a boil. Be careful (usually 6-7 gallon capacity); aerate well.
where between 150°-170°F and steep for not to let it boil over!! If you see the foam Add enough cold (non-chlorinated) water
30 minutes then remove the tea bag of rising about an inch a second, turn the gas to achieve the target volume of 5 gallons
grain and discard. down to simmer with gas heat, or move it (where the bail connects to the bucket).
! 5. Turn the heat on high. Add the liquid to a cool burner if you have electric heat.
(LME) and/or dry malt extract (DME). Add the Bittering hops (in a muslin bag) Original or Starting Gravity (O.G.) To
Since malt is the most expensive part of the to the boiling wort . take the reading use the long rigid tube
beer you should get all of the LME out by ! 7. Between 20-15 minutes before the end (without the cup valve) as a straw and stick
of the boil, add the Flavor hops (again, in it in the wort and put your finger over
a muslin bag), if any. If you are using an the top. When you lift the tube out the
immersion wort chiller, place the copper wort will not leave till you put the end of
coil into the boiling wort 20 minutes be- the tube in the hydrometer test jar and
fore the end of the boil to sanitize. If you lift the end of you finger off the end of
are using Irish Moss or spices, now is the the tube. Use the triple scale side and
time to add it. your reading should be 1.030 - 1.100
! 8. Between 2-5 minutes before the end depending on what style of beer your
of the boil, add the Aroma hops (in a muslin making. Mark it down.
bag), if any, to the wort. Remove hop bags
and discard properly.
! 9. Force chill the wort to room tempera- ! 2. Be sure the wort is somewhere around
ture (60-75°F). At the end of the boil carry 60-75°—one can easily check with a stick-
the pot with the wort chiller in it over to on thermometer. The yeast will work if you
the sink and attach the chiller to the cold keep them happy. In the beginning, this
water and chill the wort in about 10-20 means plenty of oxygen and a temperature
minutes. Another popular method for that is comfortable for them.
 Yeast are one-celled beings; there are Secondary Fermentation (optional) one end. Fit the clear plastic flexible tubing
countless millions in fermenting beer. There ! 1. If you are doing a secondary on the other end. This tubing is attached
are basically two kind of yeasts for fermentation, you will be “racking,” or to the bottling spigot on the bucket.
Homebrewers: Ales (top fermenting/room siphoning your beer off the primary yeast Again, sanitize anything that comes in
temperature) and Lagers (bottom ferment- (sand- like remains of the fermentation contact with the beer.
ing/refrigerator temperature). Most begin- that flocculate [settle] to the bottom of the
ners use dry yeast that is quick and easy. primary fermenter) to a sanitized 5 gallon Priming of the beer is the step before
Directions are usually given on the pack- carboy fitted with an airlock. You can rack bottling that gives the yeast a measured
age how to hydrate the yeast first before to a secondary fermenter at the end of the amount of food so that they will metabolize
adding to the beer, which is good, but not active fermentation period or when fermen- the sugar and each bottle of beer will be
necessary. Homebrewers then move on to tation is complete, usually in 7 days. You carbonated to the correct amount. It is
liquid yeast which are responsible for “world should not leave your beer longer than 2 important that the gravity readings are
class” beers. In order to use them, you must weeks on the yeast in the primary. The main within the range of attenuation of the yeast
first check the date stamped on the back purpose of the secondary fermentation is (i.e. fermentation is complete). If there are
bottom of the package. One day is required to clarify the beer. Also you can “dry hop” still remaining sugars and the yeast metabo-
for every month past the manufacture date. during the secondary to get better hop lized them, you will have glass grenades,
The package contains a small plastic bubble aroma. Normally, the beer will clarify (and gushers, and embarrassing homebrew.
of beer that must be broke. When the pack- condition) in the secondary fermenter
age is at least 1" thick, sanitize the packet within 10-14 days. If desired, you can safely
and the scissors, cut gently at the corner hold the beer in the secondary up to 6 ! 2. Boil a pint of water, turn off the heat,
and pour into the cooled wort. Yeast will months for storage and further conditioning dissolve 3/4 priming sugar or 1 1/4 cups
eat the sugars and create alcohol and carbon (Lagering). Lagering is the term use to of DME or 1/2 cup of honey. Force chill
dioxide. The specific gravity of water is describe the refining of the taste and char- your priming solution.
1.000, the specific gravity of alcohol is .79 acter of the beer. When storing beer, care ! 3. Rack your beer to your bottling
thus the yeast will attenuate (lower) the should be taken to keep the beer at the bucket. Do not splash!
gravity during fermentation. Most liquid proper temperature, out of direct light and ! 4. Gently stir the priming solution into
yeast packets state the attenuation potential. with as little agitation as possible. Use the the beer in the bottling bucket.
time to find and sanitize the 2 cases of bottles. ! 5. Open the spigot. The beer will flow
into the filler stem and stop at the spring
! 3. Insert the airlock into the lid (bucket) Racking (siphoning) equipment usually loaded valve. When you insert the filler
or stopper (carboy) and fill halfway (about consists of a rigid, hollow, clear plastic tube stem into a bottle and press down on the
1") with water (or cheap vodka). Sprinkle or cane fitted with a cap (open around the valve the beer will gently flow into the
the packet of dry yeast or pour the liquid top for intake). The other end is fitted with bottle without aerating. Fill the bottle to
yeast onto the cooled wort and stir to about 4-5 feet of clear, flexible plastic tube. the top. When you remove the filler stem
mix in the yeast and aerate the wort. Sanitize anything that comes in contact with it will leave the desired displacement of
Homebrewers call this “pitching” the the beer. To rack, place the container with space above the beer.
yeast. Then seal the fermenting bucket or the beer a foot or two above the ! 6. Place a cap on the top of a bottle,
carboy and store at 65-75°F for ales and receiving container. Fill the siphon set-up place the capper over the cap and simul-
lagers. Keep carboy covered out of direct with water and hold your finger over the taneously press down on both handles
light. When active signs of fermentation opening of the flexible tubing. Place the with even pressure until the handles are
are seen (bubbling in the airlock) and you rigid capped stem below the surface of the parallel with the surface.
are using a liquid lager yeast, slowly bring beer and the other end with your finger ! 7. Allow the bottles to stand at 65-75°F
the temperature down to 45-55°F. If you still on the end at the bottom of the for 10-14 days, then chill one for two hours
are using an ale yeast keep it at 65-75°F. receiving container. Minimize aeration or and taste in a clean beer glass. The beer
Fermentation is usually over when the cap your beer will taste like cardboard! Gravity should be fully carbonated and taste good.
is resting on the airlock. Check the Final and pressure will start the siphoning ac- It can only get better with conditioning
Gravity (F.G.) reading with the hydrometer. tion, and the beer will follow. The human and clarify further with time.
Use the following formula: mouth is full of bacteria that can poten- ! 8. Start planning your next batch, think
tially damage your beer. Again, do not lose of what flavors you really like, what foods
O.G. (1-Attenuation) = F.G.
the siphon, do not splash, do not pick up you like that match the beer style, then;
For example, to find out where the final the cloudy yeast on the bottom. try making up your own recipe - it is not
gravity should be: Original or Starting that hard!
Gravity is 50, Attenuation is 67-70%. Mul-
tiply 50 by .30 and 50 by .33 and final Bottling
gravity should be between 1.015 and ! 1. To facilitate bottling a bottling
1.0165. If it is not in this range, then bucket should be used. This is normally
fermentation is not over. Check the a 5-6 gallon plastic container, with a 1"
temperature, is it too cool? You may have hole drilled near the bottom to fit a bot-
a stuck fermentation—please call me. If it tling spigot. The important gasket is on
is in the desired range, congratulations— the outside of the bucket. Make sure the
it is no longer wort, it is beer. spigot is closed before transfering. A
!" 11. So, do you have 2 cases of brown, bottle filler is normally a rigid, clear plastic
non-twist off bottles yet? tube with a spring loaded needle valve on