Transcultural Cities
Transcultural Cities
Transcultural Cities
In major Philippine urban centers like metropolitan Manila, Baguio City, Angeles, and
Davao, it is not uncommon to hear the locals exclaim how “the Koreans are taking
over!” with grim-faced guardedness or cheerful resignation. For over a decade now,
a steady stream of students and small entrepreneurs has been flowing in from the
Republic of Korea (South Korea, hereafter), and has introduced visible and not
always well-integrated changes in the city fabric. If only because of the proliferation
of commercial signs written in Hangul popping up in the most unlikely street corners
and lower-end neighborhoods, signs which are of course unintelligible to the vast
majority of Filipinos, the Korean population is making its presence abundantly
palpable. This is a significant transnational phenomenon, as a more disciplined
culture of Northeast Asians attempts to plant itself in a historically more relaxed
Southeast Asian culture influenced strongly by Spanish/Latino-American and North
American attitudes. Urban changes are noticeably manifested in the form of corner
groceries, evangelical churches, travel agencies, and English language schools
catering to Koreans. Even odder to the host culture is the fact that Koreans are
actually staying for years at a time—despite numerous perceived inefficiencies and
travails presented by the developing cities.
For instance, due to the recent hostage fiasco that involved the fatal, botched
rescue of eight Hong Kong tourists in August 2010, Metro Manila again became
known for the risks it poses to foreigners. Yet Koreans are to be found setting up
shop far from the luxurious gated communities used by other expatriates, brushing
aside the inconveniences of smog, potholed streets, muggers, and occasional
extortion by wayward cops. Moreover, it should be noted that transcultural com-
munication is inadvertently at the heart of this process, as Koreans often come to
learn English, a language that Filipinos themselves absorbed (albeit imperfectly)
under colonial rule by the United States. The locals wonder why the Koreans,
who are perceived to be able to afford migration directly to America, choose
the Philippines. Yet the urban society remains open to such waves of foreigners,
especially because many bring in hard cash, and long-term investments—even
though the visitors have not always behaved like guests. This chapter seeks to
examine this phenomenon, through a snapshot of both the apparent physical
changes in urban areas, as well as the possible attitudes and policies that lie beneath
this intermingling of cultures.
78 José Edgardo Abaya Gomez, Jr.
the poor and marginalized—which takes a strange twist in this case, as Korean
visitors are rarely penniless, and do not remain at the margins of Philippine com-
munities for too long, while their local neighbors may stay mired in abject poverty.
Urban spaces, in summary, become constitutive elements of the reproduction of the
social—they inform actions of inhabitants, but are also outcomes of actions, and no
other institution but the state is constructed and equipped to shape both the space
and the activities therein in such a definitive manner (Zierhofer, 2005).
economy structurally makes it difficult to find a job for workers over 50, fresh
university graduates, women in general, and the handicapped. Employment is often
monopolized by networks of Koreans with shared regional origin or university
affiliation (Bidet, 2009). At the same time, in the last decade it has become
increasingly acceptable for Korean men, particularly never-married rural bachelors
and divorcees, to marry foreign women (Lee et al., 2006). Taking advantage of the
proliferation of cheap airlines in the region, Koreans range far and wide to find work
and spouses. Simultaneously, the United States has been declining as a destination-
of-choice for Koreans, with Canada representing a multiculturally friendly alternative
(Han & Ibbott, 2005). This is possibly because Korean immigrants to the USA have
cited higher levels of job discrimination, owing to language difficulties (Gee & Ponce,
2010), and have been documented to come into conflict with Blacks and Hispanics
(Pyong Gap Min, 2007). Meanwhile, countries of Southeast Asia offer accessible
options, with the Philippine islands regarded as a viable alternative for affordable
quality education and acquisition of functional Anglophone skills.
The seminal work by Miralao (2007) explains that despite the increasing number
of Koreans that has arrived in the Philippines since the 1990s, the phenomenon is
largely temporary. On the other hand, Miralao explains that unlike Korean diasporas
to other countries in the past (i.e., soon after World War II), the waves of Koreans
to the Philippines are the result of the last decade’s prosperity at home that has
driven business and networks to expand outwards, especially to where cheap labor
markets for Korean companies and the opportunity to learn English coincide.
Quite to the contrary, other areas offer diversity (Baguio), idyllic coastal settings
(Dumaguete), and crime-free streets (Davao), making those potent alternatives for
immigrants wishing to settle in the laid-back tropics. Over 50 percent of settlements
are coastal, often sited away from the battering Pacific Ocean. Many town layouts
possess a plaza of Hispanic provenance. Around this core, modern buildings, roads,
and real estate projects sprawl, often bankrolled by Chinese magnates and Filipino
industrial giants. The result, in recent years, has been the proliferation of glass-&-
steel commercial centers and residences that are not affordable to most citizens, but
which offer excellent living conditions for wealthy foreigners.
probably not be noticeable. Above these densities, they would make up a “Korean
Town,” such as the one in Angeles City, where a kilometer-long street has been
thoroughly Koreanized on both sides. Oddly, this latter phenomenon has taken place
in a honky-tonk district beside the former Clark Air Base, where US military personnel
once loitered.
One of the respondent’s most memorable cultural shocks took place when the
couple hired laborers to extend some house renovations till dusk, not an unusual
practice in South Korea. An irate neighbor stormed their gate, holding his shotgun
and demanding that they stop the din. “My husband had never seen a shotgun
before!” she related (and had certainly not been threatened with one). From this,
they learned that the noise of work was verboten after sunset. However, they find
it strange that their neighbors carouse all night, singing pop-songs on the karaoke,
unconcerned about dormant co-villagers. On a more positive note, the couple’s
daughter said that she got along well with Filipino friends in a private high school.
Another “survivor” does missionary work together with her pastor husband in
Bulacan province, north of Metro Manila. Following the established routine, they
settled with the help of her husband’s contacts. Over the last half-decade, they
constructed ten churches, and penetrated the poorest neighborhoods where they
soon won a large following, as their feeding programs have provided hot meals for
up to 900 children twice a week—all subsidized by Korean money. In contrast to
other Koreans, this respondent and her husband assert “we have many local
friends,” and foresee themselves staying to consolidate the gains of Protestant
proselytization, though their two teenage children will eventually be sent to the
United States for university.
An older student, about to finish his Master’s degree in Special Education, arrived
about seven years ago, originally to learn English. He was from rural Koeje-si in the
south of the peninsula, and although he had Korean friends who helped him adjust,
he was not well advised. He wound up enrolled in a school for less-privileged classes,
where the students spoke English poorly and spent their after-school hours “drinking
and hanging around.” He stayed in a Korean-run dormitory until he had sufficiently
adapted, then moved on to a more reputable university.
Yet another entrepreneur married a local, and tried to run a Norebang, or
karaoke business, in Pasay (in central Metro Manila). He closed up shop after three
years, as he claimed that the authorities were harassing him. In 2009, he moved on
to try his luck in Subic Bay, the former US Naval Station northwest of the capital,
which has been transformed into an economic zone with incentives for foreign
investors.
Whether their interest is entrepreneurial or religious, all migrant Koreans need
to learn to communicate locally, and English becomes the idiom of choice as well
as the overarching reason for settling down. This is one level where the transcultural
process begins: a local English instructor is sought out, and a relationship develops,
depending on how personably the parties behave towards one another.
to her tutees after seven years of interaction. She remarked that she was the one Figure 6.3 This once
rundown street has
who learned their ways, such as how to eat and spice their noodles, how to get
been thoroughly
value for money out of work hours, and how to keep the anteroom spotless. Koreanized. Photograph
On the other hand, there are Filipinos who did not form any long-term close by José Edgardo Abaya
relationship with their employers. Another respondent found a “sideline” by work- Gomez, Jr.
ing for a Korean businesswoman, who operated an on-line tutorial center for
elementary children. The Filipina respondent prepared booklets and manuals similar
to TOEFL3 reviewers, for a good wage of –P100 ($3) per hour of writing. Most of the
operations were conducted at night, in a largely vacant building in the Ortigas
business district of Metro Manila. The author visited the nondescript premises, which
were covered with dust and loose wiring on the outside but contained state-of-the-
art workstations inside a cramped air-conditioned room. In this room Filipino tutors
sat in front of screens, coaxing bored-looking Korean schoolchildren to pronounce
English words. The setup was lucrative but exhausting for the Filipinos, and
eventually the interviewee left to take on another job, even though she had by then
won the trust of her employer, who occasionally asked for advice on such matters
as setting up a “summer camp” for Korean children.
Blue-collar workers, however, have complained that Korean masters are harsh,
and have been known to yell at their maidservants, or deduct from employee wages
for the tithes of the Koreans’ religious congregations. The author has witnessed this
in commercial areas, where Korean overseers keep a sharp eye on carpenters,
plumbers, and other day-laborers, fretting until the tasks are finished exactly as
envisioned.
86 José Edgardo Abaya Gomez, Jr.
occupants and send them on their way. This is not random land speculation—there
is usually another magnet of activity nearby, such as a university or a strategic
mercantile location. These actions therefore constitute a method, deliberate and
thoroughly rational from an economic point of view, to explain the “Koreanization”
of urban areas.
Consequently, one must relate to this the issue of social intermingling. Many
Filipinos and Koreans will admit that integration of the latter into Philippine society
is slow, at best, as the Koreans generally do not mix with the locals except on a
functional basis. Accounts from Philippine history narrate a similar pattern among
Chinese and Japanese immigrants, who started out in ghettos and did not meld into
local society until the second and third generations, which did not stand out as
much as their parent stock as foreigners. Thus, while present relations still manifest
in the form of ethnic “turf,” interracial understanding and mixing will probably
improve over time.
While it cannot be disputed that South Koreans in general appear to be more
driven, hierarchical, and stubborn (Rhie, 2002) than their Filipino counterparts, the
ability of the former to thrive under Philippine conditions suggests that they may at
least share some traits or tolerances that enable them to find niches in the host
society. Indeed, there is neither hard-line segregation nor hurtful exclusion, as has
been practiced elsewhere by European colonizers of the past. Aubrey (2009) posits
a list of Korean traits that resonate partially with local Filipino dispositions: a
preference for full-flavored food; value given to speed, function, and getting things
done with little heed to detail; tolerance for low cleanliness in public places; and
adherence to Christianity. It is perhaps also through the combination of Filipinos’
hospitality, or need for income, and the South Koreans’ determination to learn and
succeed that partnerships are engendered, despite the inconveniences of floods,
power outages, traffic, and other urban ills that affect local and foreigner alike.
Looking Ahead
Korean presence in the Philippines is still growing, though it remains to be seen how
and when the energy of population migration will burn out. As international
economic fortunes rise and fall, local interaction continues at a modest pace, and
Koreans disperse rapidly across the archipelago, unavoidably entering into profes-
sional and personal transactions with their hosts and helpers. This is ironic, because
some Koreans, despite their aloof haste, catalyze the means by which transcultural
exchanges can take place, simply by finding homes and building shops in more
urban centers—without government prodding. For this author, such accidents of
circumstance promise to provide more transcultural exchange rather than frustrate
it, since Philippine history has shown that eventually a good number of the
newcomers will put down roots, intermarry, and graft their culture onto the local
sociopolitical stem. This points the reader in the direction of future studies that look
at the progress of the Korean wave, and at the spread of its effects occurring in other
parts of the country, as well as in the rest of Southeast Asia.
The Korean Diaspora in Philippine Cities 89
Notes
1 Taeguk refers to the red and blue “Yin-Yang” symbol, found in the center of the
Korean flag. Sam-taeguk is a similar symbol with a yellow field, and colors arranged
in a semi-spiral.
2 The barangay < ba-rang-gai > is the smallest political unit in the Philippines,
equivalent to a village.
3 Test of English as a Foreign Language.
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Interviews
M. S. Kim and S. H. Song—15 October 2010, Quezon City.
D. H. Park—21 October 2010, Pasay City.
K. S. Ryung—26 October 2010, Quezon City.
L. D. Choul—mid-2009 (informal).
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Mrs. K. Suñega-Cruz—intermittent, January 2011.
Director J. Ignacio, Director for Northeast Asian Division, Department of Foreign
Affairs—27 October 2010.