TYPES OF RAFTERS:

There are the following types of rafters such as;

1. Common Rafter
2. Hip Rafter
3. Hip Jacks
4. Valley Rafter
5. Valley Jacks
6. Cripple Jacks
7. Flying Hip
8. Auxiliary Rafter
9. Principal Rafter

References

Framing a Roof (bbrsd.org)

What Are Rafters? How Rafters Work in Roof Framing (mtcopeland.com)

Rafters vs. Trusses: What’s the Difference and Which is Right for You
(roofingcalculator.com)

Roof framing elements | BUILD

Roof Framing: How to Measure, Cut, and Build Roof Rafters

(roofingcalculator.com)

Roof Framing 101 - How To Build & Frame A Roof (extremehowto.com)

Rafter - Designing Buildings

What Are the Different Types of Roof Rafter? (with pictures)

(homequestionsanswered.com)

What are Rafters? its 7 Types, Construction Steps & Advantages

(civilclick.com)
Types of Roof Rafters (carpentry-pro-framer.com)

Rafters vs. Trusses: Know What They Are, Their Differences, and Pros and
Cons  - Homenish

Francis D. K. Ching-Building Construction Illustrated-Wiley (2014).pdf

(archive.org)

CHAPTER 5: Design of Wood Framing (huduser.gov)

untitled (weebly.com)

Structural Design of Wood Framing for the Home Inspector - InterNACHI®

Time-Saver Standards for Architectural Design Data -

Architectural_Standard by Donald Watson.pdf

Roof Framing: definition of types of rafters, definition of Collar Ties, Rafter

Ties, Structural Ridge Beams, causes of roof collapse & wall spread.
(inspectapedia.com)

Rafters Vs. Trusses - What’s the Difference Between Rafters & Trusses?
(roofingcalc.com)

additional

19 Parts of a Roof on a House (Detailed Diagram) - Home Stratosphere

Rafter systems , production of rafter systems Saint Petersburg- Erker

(ercer.ru)

Roof Rafters Vs. Trusses: What’s the Difference and Which is best for your
home (legacyusa.com)
I. Rafter Support – Aquino, Jeriza 
2

1. Introduction
A. Definition of Rafter
B. Components of Roof Framing: Rafter
i.          Collar Ties
iii.        Ceiling Joist
2. Types of Rafter
A. Common Rafter
B. Hip Rafter
C. Hip Jacks
D. Valley Rafter
E. Valley Jacks
F. Cripple Jacks
G. Flying Hip
H. Auxiliary Rafter
I. Principal Rafter

   3.    Rafter System

A. Material
B. Wood Rafter Framing
a. Ridge
b. Eave attachment
c. Eave Support Conditions
d. Exposed Rafters
e. Closed Rake
f. Wide Vented Soffit
g. Rake Overhang
h. Narrow Vented Soffit
i. Parapets
j. Flat Roof Joist

A. C
a. Hip Roof
b. Gambrel Roof
c. Flat Roof
 4.    Advantages & Disadvantages
A. Causes of Rafter Damage
B. Reinforcing Roof Rafters

I. Rafter Support – 2 Aquino, Jeriza 

 1. Introduction
A. Definition of Rafter

WHAT IS A ROOF RAFTER?

A rafter is defined as one of a series of sloped structural pieces (typically

wooden beams)  that extend from the hip or ridge to eave, wall plate, or
downslope perimeter. They’re designed to support the roof deck, shingles,
and everything else that goes with the roof.

The rafters are used as part of roof construction and generally laid in series,
side by side, providing a base to support roof decks, roof coverings, etc.
Rafters are made of timber or steel and can be concealed within the roof
structure, and to fix the roof covering, they may have battens laid on top
and perpendicular to them.

Rafter boards that create the slope of the roof are typically wider than ones
used to create trusses. While 2x4s are most common in trusses, 2x8s, 2x10s,
and 2x12s are most common in rafters. In a finished space, insulation is
placed between the rafter boards and drywall. In an unfinished space, like
an attic, insulation is usually laid between the joists.
WHAT IS A ROOF RAFTER?

A rafter is defined as one of a series of sloped structural pieces (typically

wooden beams)  that extend from the hip or ridge to eave, wall plate, or
downslope perimeter. They’re designed to support the roof deck, shingles,
and everything else that goes with the roof.

Rafters are the traditional way to frame a roof. This is also known as stick
framing, which is cut and built on the job site by a professional
carpenter. Major components of a rafter include:

 Common rafter
 Plumb cut
 Ridge board
 Collar tie
 Birdsmouth cut
 Tail cut
 Ceiling joist
 Double top plates
 Wall stud

Rafter boards that create the slope of the roof are typically wider than ones
used to create trusses. While 2x4s are most common in trusses, 2x8s, 2x10s,
and 2x12s are most common in rafters. In a finished space, insulation is
placed between the rafter boards and drywall. In an unfinished space, like
an attic, insulation is usually laid between the joists.

RAFTERS

The rafters are a series of sloped structural pieces that will extend from a
ridge area to the plate of a wall and support the load of the building and is
a structural component of a pitched roof.
The rafters are used as part of roof construction and generally laid in series,
side by side, providing a base to support roof decks, roof coverings, etc.
Rafters are made of timber or steel and can be concealed within the roof
structure, and to fix the roof covering, they may have battens laid on top
and perpendicular to them.

A rafter is a structural component that is used as part of

a roof construction. Typically, it runs from the ridge or hip of the roof to
the wall plate of the external wall. Rafters are generally laid in series, side by
side, providing a base to support roof decks, roof coverings and so on.

Rafters are typically made of timber or steel and can be concealed within

the roof structure, or can be left exposed to the spaces below. The may
have battens laid on top of and perpendicular to them, to fix the roof
covering to.

Rafters can be used as a key component of various types of roof design.

The couple roof comprises two rafters leaning against each other, tied
where they meet at the top. The rafters sit on a wall plate which is an
efficient means of spreading the load exerted by the roof structure down
through the walls without creating pressure points where each rafter meets
the wall.

Rafters are long wooden boards used for the frame of the roof, also known
as stick framing. Rafters are made on the job site by the roofers and they
are typically cut into 2x10 or 2x12 beams, which slope down from the peak
of the roof. Ceiling joists then help secure the rafters and the exterior walls.
The ridge beam or ridge board is placed at the center of the roof, which
helps to support the roof rafters at the top.
 Exposed ridge beams in an attic.
It's important to understand the difference between ridge beams and ridge
boards. Each requires different sizes of rafters and serves different
purposes. The ridge beam is a structural piece that supports and holds up
the rafters and is required by building code if your roof slope is less than
3/12. Ridge beams typically offer more stability than ridge boards and
lengthen the lifespan of the rafters. They're also commonly used for
buildings with vaulted ceilings or when you want to increase the amount of
attic space.

What is a rafter?
A rafter is a structural component of a roof on a building. Traditional rafters
frame out the roof and connect to the exterior walls. This system is also
called stick framing. Typically built on site, rafters are cut to 2 x 10 pieces
and land on a ridge board, which runs across the length of the building.
Ceiling joists are then used to connect the rafters and exterior walls. The
result is a vaulted ceiling that can be filled with insulation and drywall to
finish the space. Alternatively, it can be left as open space in an attic. 
 B. Components of Roof Framing: Rafter

Major components of a rafter include:

 Common rafter
 Plumb cut
 Ridge board
 Collar tie

Collar ties are elements that are fitted between rafters to prevent them
from spreading apart.

 Birdsmouth cut
 Tail cut
 Ceiling joist

Ceiling joists are the lengths of timber or metal that the ceiling is attached
to.
  Double top plates
 Wall stud

Common roof framing elements

FRAMING ELEMENT

Barge board

Barge boards are found on homes with a gabled roof. Their function is similar to
that of a fascia board - however it runs parallel to the rafters, on an angle at the
skillion end of a gable. A barge board disguises the rafters closest to the end of of a
gable roof.

Ceiling joist

Ceiling joists are the lengths of timber or metal that the ceiling is attached to.

Collar tie

Collar ties are elements that are fitted between rafters to prevent them from
spreading apart.

Fascia board

A fascia board is attached across the end of the rafters to disguise them.

Hanging beam

Hanging beams sit at a right angle directly above ceiling joists. They are attached to
the ceiling joists by metal hoops or brackets. Their main purpose is to support the
joists and allow for shorter joists to be installed.

Hip rafter

A hip rafter extends from the wall plate to the ridge in the angle of a hip roof.
Purlin

A purlin is a horizontal piece of timber or metal which supports the roof’s

rafters or decking and helps to prevent your roof from sagging.

Rafter

Rafters are sloped beams that run from the roof’s ridge to the eaves. They
provide the support for the external roofing material.

Ridge beam

Ridge beams are long, rectangular, rigid pieces of wood, metal or stone which
are placed horizontally along the ridge of the roof.

Roofing batten

Roofing battens run across or down a roof (sometimes both) to provide a

fixing point for roofing cladding materials such as tiles or shingles.

Soffit bearer

Soffit bearers sit between the wall and the fascia, providing a base for the
soffit lining to be fixed to.

Struts and props

Struts and props are vertical elements which support and transfer the load
from the purlins to the strutting beams.

Strutting beam

Strutting beams support the roof members where there are no load bearing
wall studs available. They transfer the load of the roof to load bearing walls.
Strutting beams should only support roof loads, and not be used as ceiling
joists.

Top plate
A top plate is nailed to the top of wall studs. This is the plate that the roofing
elements sit on, and effectively the meeting point of the walls and the roof
structure. It supports the roof load and helps transfer it down load bearing
walls and into the foundations.

Valley rafter
A valley rafter extends diagonally at a 45° angle from the inside corner of two
intersecting wall plates up to the ridge of the roof.

Roof framing basics: what is a rafter?

A singular rafter frame typically includes three components:

 Rafters
 Ridge board
 Rafter ties
Roof framing: key terms and definitions
Rafters
The rafters are the diagonal members that directly support the roof deck.
Ridge board
The ridge board serves as a nailing surface for the opposing rafters and
provides no structural support.
Rafter tie
The rafter tie resists the outward forces imposed on the load-bearing
walls. As the rafters sit on top of the wall plates at an angle, they exert
horizontal forces on the exterior walls. Rafter ties, which often double as
ceiling joists, prevent these horizontal forces from causing the walls to
"pancake."
Ridge beam
Some framing systems use a ridge beam combined with gable-end posts
instead of a ridge board, which provides structural support to the rafters.
For roofs with less than 3:12 pitch, codes require ridge beams because they
reduce the extreme outward forces on the walls. A ridge beam can
eliminate the need for rafter ties, which is often paramount for
the cathedral ceiling aesthetic.
Collar ties
Some applications call for collar ties, often confused for rafter ties.
Although they run parallel to the rafter ties, they sit towards the upper-third
of the rafter to resist separation at the ridge – not the walls. Collar ties
mainly come into play where codes require improved ridge strength, such
as in high-wind climates.
Tools needed to build roof rafters
To build a roof rafter, gather the following materials equipment:

 Lumber stock
 Framing square or speed square
 Pencil
 Saw
 Measuring tape
 Hammer and nails or a nail gun
  At least one helper
 A construction calculator (optional)

How to build roof rafters

1. Know your measurements

Before you cut anything, you need the span, rise, run, and line length of
your roof frame.

 Span: the length between the outside supporting walls

 Rise: the height of the roof ridge from the center of the span
 Run: half the span
 Line: the "hypotenuse" of the triangle, as in the diagonal distance
from the outer wall to the center of the ridge along the rafter

The span and run measurements hinge on wall dimensions. Before you can
install a roof, the walls must be in place. In turn, you should already have
your span and run measurements to work off of.
The rise and line measurements, on the other hand, depend on your roof
pitch.
2. Determine roof pitch
The roof pitch dictates the angles at which you need to cut your rafters as
well as their length.
Fortunately, you can figure out roof pitch with a simple equation – rise
divided by run.
For instance, if your rafter rises 6 inches over every 12 inches of run, your
roof pitch will come out to 6:12.
You may need to consult building codes to ensure your roof pitch meets
the requirements for the planned roofing material. For example,
the International Residential Code requires roof slopes no smaller than 2:12
for asphalt shingles. Any lower and you will need to use a flat roof
material to meet standards.
Rise and line measurements
Once you zero in on your roof pitch, you can determine the rise and line
measurements.
Remember that you should already know the run of the roof. By hand, you
can create a proportion between your fixed roof pitch (rise over run, like
6:12) and actual roof run to solve for the missing value (actual rise).
With your rise and run figured out, you can then calculate your line
measurement (the triangle's hypotenuse) using the Pythagorean theorem.
If you're not confident in your math skills, a contractor can use a
construction calculator with a rafter function to speed up the process.
Regardless of line length, you must account for the width of the ridge
board that will go in between the opposing rafters. If your ridge board is a
1 1/2-inch board, subtract 3/4 inches on our line length from each rafter.
3. Buying lumber

Image source: Bloomberg
There are two things to consider before buying lumber for roof framing:

 How long do the boards need to be?

  How many frames do I need?

Board length
With our measurements all figured out, we know not to purchase lumber
shorter than our required lengths. We recommend using lumber at least a
foot longer than your final measurements plus rafter overhang to provide
ample space for cuts.
How many frames
There are two extreme methods to go about planning frames with a
designated rafter length.

 Maximum amount of frames, weakest allowable lumber

 Minimum amount of frames, sufficiently strong lumber

For example, the widest conventional rafter spacing is 24 inches on-center,

which means installing a new rafter course every two feet along the walls.
Since you have fewer rafters supporting the roof, the lumber needs to be
stronger.
On the flipside, rafters every 12 inches on-center, the shortest distance
required by codes, can support a roof with weaker wood because the
system consists of more frames.
Lumber strength stems from the species, grade, and sawn dimensions.
Instead of weighing all of these variables yourself, the American Wood
Council provides tables that outline the maximum allowable spans of
softwood lumber in standard sizes under normal loads depending on rafter
spacing.
Once you vet out your lumber, you can calculate how many boards you
need.
Let’s say you need rafters 24 inches on-center over a 16-foot building
length. Every frame requires two rafters. If there are rafters every two feet,
we need 8 frames, which means we need 16 pieces of lumber for rafters.
Then, you have to account for your ridge board, which should measure one
size higher than your rafters to provide ample space for nailing. If you use
2-by-6 rafters, your ridge board should be 2-by-8 that runs the length of
the building plus overhang. If your building is too long, you may need to
splice two pieces of ridge board together.
Don't forget about rafter ties and collar ties, if needed.
As always, you should order more lumber than you need to account for
errors.
4. Outline the cuts
We have our lumber. Now it’s time to cut our rafters.

There are five cuts you need to make for a common rafter.

 Plumb cuts: where the rafter meets the ridge board

 Tail cut: the lower end of the rafter that establishes the roof eaves
 Bird’s mouth: where the rafter meets the wall top plate
 Seat cut
 Heel cut
 Fascia cut: shortening the lower tail-end of the rafter to
accommodate fascia and soffit, if necessary

Start by outlining the plumb cut. To do this, you need to pencil in the
cutting angle by following your predetermined roof pitch. Professional
carpenters pinpoint the required angle by using a framing square or a
speed square.
We explain the process using a framing square. With this tool, it helps to
use stair gauges, which keep measurements consistent.
Start by picking out the straightest lumber you have. If there is a curve or
“crown,” make sure it faces up to prevent the roof from sagging following
installation.
Using a framing square

The long arm of a framing square is called the “blade.” The short arm is
called the “tongue.”
In this example, we’ll outline cuts for a 6:12 pitch roof.

 Place the blade (long arm) of the framing square on top of the rafter
board so that the tongue (short arm) sits upright. It should look like
an elongated "L."
 Push the end of the blade up until you reach the 6-inch mark on the
tongue and the 12-inch mark on the blade at the upper edge of the
rafter board.
  Draw a line following the outside edge of the tongue – this marks
the plumb cut.
 Starting at this line, measure down the rafter until you reach the line
length.

 Once you reach the necessary rafter length, make the same angle
with your framing square as you did for the plumb cut – this marks
the heel cut of the bird’s mouth.
 Turn over your framing square, holding it perpendicular to the bird’s
mouth line.

 Match the blade measurement at the bottom of the rafter with the
width of your wall plate and draw towards the heel cut line – this
marks the seat cut of the birds’ mouth.
 Beyond the bird’s mouth resides the rafter tail. Measure out your
overhang.
 At this point, mark your tail cut parallel to your plumb and heel cuts.

5. Make the cuts

 Image source: The Family Handyman
Now that you’ve marked your lines, you can make the cuts with your saw to
form your first rafter.
You can easily make duplicates by tracing the same cuts with your original
rafter.
To ensure their rise, run, and span is correct, place a rafter pair on the
ground with a piece of ridge board between them and check your
measurements.
You may wish to test the rafters on your building to verify that they sit
correctly at both the wall plates and the ridge board. If your initial rafters
meet requirements, you can go ahead and cut the rest.
6. Install the rafters
For larger projects, it helps to recruit a helper or two to arrange the initial
rafter courses with the ridge board.

 Create a brace for your ridge board by nailing a 2-by-4 board up the
center of the gable-end wall. The board should measure taller than
the wall and roof rise combined.
  Place your ridge beam across the walls or rafter ties perpendicular to
your rafter layout.
 Lean your rafters along your outside walls with the ridge-ends facing
up. This will give you easy access to them up on the roof.
 Bring up your gable-end rafters and drive one nail through them into
the rafter ties. Make sure the heel cut meets the wall plate.
 Lean the nailed in rafters against each other. Nothing is supporting
them from falling, so your helper can hold them in place.
 Head to the other end of the ridge board, nail two opposing rafters to
their respective rafter ties, and lean them against each other just as
you did with the gable-end rafters.
 Hoist one end of the ridge board up to where the two rafters meet.
 Nail the rafters to the ridge board.
 At the initial rafter course, slip the ridge beam between the two
rafters nail them off.

At this point, these two common rafters have sufficient support that they
will stand on their own. Making sure they're spaced correctly, nail in the
remaining rafters to the ridge board.
rafters fastened securely, you can install collar ties, purlins, sway braces, and
other supports as needed or required by code.
Roof framing is not as hard as it looks

Image source: The Spruce

The whole process is rather complicated, but when you break down
designing, measuring, cutting, and hammering everything together into
small, digestible parts, framing a roof can be DIY.
Of course, this guide merely scratches the surface of roof framing. We don't
get into the nitty-gritty of building codes, gable studs, and roof sheathing.
However, these fundamentals ideally provide a solid foundation for a gung
ho roof framer.
Keep in mind that you can skip most of these steps by opting for pre-
fabricated trusses. For those who would rather not spend on delivery,
recruit additional labor for installation, and seek to hone the waning craft of
roof framing, rafters are the way to go.
With enough experience, framing even a complex hip roof with hip rafters,
jack rafters, and the like should come somewhat intuitively.

2. Types of Rafter
A. Common Rafter
 Common Rafters are found in all conventionally framed roofs and run from an exterior wall all
the way up to the ridge board. They are used to set the height and center the ridge board in the
 span. After the ridge board location has been established the hip and valley rafters location can
then be established.

B. Hip Rafter
 Hip Rafters run at a 45 degree angle to the commons and are placed from the outside corners
of the building to the ridge board.

C. Hip Jacks
 Hip Jacks sit on the outside walls and run up to the hip rafter in line with the common rafters.

D. Valley Rafter
 Valley Rafters are placed at inside corners to the ridge and are also at a 45 degree angle to the
commons.

E. Valley Jacks
 Valley Jacks run from the valley rafter up to the ridge board and in line with the commons.

F. Cripple Jacks
 Cripple Jacks are used when a valley and hip are located close together and only go from a
valley to a hip rafter.

G. Flying Hip
 Flying Hip also known as a mystery hip go from where a valley rafter meets a ridge to the end
of a higher ridge board.

H. Auxiliary Rafter
Auxiliary rafters. These are sometimes used to support a principal rafter.

I. Principal Rafter

Principal rafter: Usually the largest type of rafter located at the ends of a roof structure.

Types of Rafters
All steep-slope roof systems, (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25 percent or more),
have five basic components:
 Roof Covering: shingles, tile, slate or metal and underlayment that
protect the sheathing from weather.
 Sheathing: boards or sheet material that are fastened to roof
rafters to cover a house or building.
 Roof Structure: rafters and trusses constructed to support the
sheathing.
 Flashing: sheet metal or other material installed into a roof
system’s various joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.
 Drainage: a roof system’s design features, such as shape, slope
and layout that affect its ability to shed water.
   3.    Rafter System
A. Material
B. Wood Rafter Framing
a.Ridge
b.Eave attachment
c. Eave Support Conditions
d.Exposed Rafters
e.Closed Rake
f. Wide Vented Soffit
g.Rake Overhang
h.Narrow Vented Soffit
i. Parapets
j. Flat Roof Joist
C. Components
a. Hip Roof
b. Gambrel Roof
c. Flat Roof
D.
3. Advantages & Disadvantages

Advantages of Rafters

More head height in the attic

If you want to convert your attic space into an extra room or use it as extra
storage, rafters are a better option since they leave the attic ceiling wide
open for maximum head height.
Can be used anywhere

As rafters are built on-site, they are perfect for difficult-to-reach building
locations. Rafters can also be delivered using a boat, helicopter, or pickup
truck to any remote building site.

Ideal for small construction projects

You can use rafters for building a shed, cabin, or a small addition without
having to wait for trusses to be made in a factory. There is no need to go
through the hassle of creating and designing a roof truss for small projects,
such as garages or sheds. Simply use rafters that are cut to shape on-site.

Reduced lead time

Because rafters are stick-built as and when required, they need less advance
planning for installation. This is unlike trusses that require accurate
planning in the factory with exact measurements well ahead of time.

Drawbacks of Rafters

More time-consuming

Installing rafters at the work site is a slower process that requires more
people. In fact, a large residential roofing rafter may take up to a week to
build.

Costly

When you take into account the higher labor rate and the required
materials, rafters come out as the most expensive option.
Skilled workers required

Finding workers with the specific skills to build rafters is fast becoming a
rarity. This is because these craftsmen are getting older and most are even
retiring now.

Slower pace of building

Once the walls are up and the work on hand-building each rafter starts, you
should expect a long process that can be further delayed if adverse weather
rolls in.

RAFTER PROS

Although the number of homeowners using trusses have increased in the

past half-century, many people still use rafters to frame their roof. As the
traditional way to provide structure, rafters have plenty of advantages. They
include:

 Rafters allow for more space in your home – When you use rafters,
you’ll be pleased to hear that they’ll provide more space in your
home. In fact, you might even be able to turn your attic into an office
or another bedroom. Even if you don’t need another room, you can
open the lower floor to create a beautiful vaulted ceiling.
 You can use them anywhere – Rafters are usually built on-site, so
they’re perfect for building locations that are hard to reach. Whether
it’s by truck, boat, or helicopter, the way the material can be
transported is also quite flexible.
 They’re perfect for “spur of the moment” projects – Since rafters
don’t have to be ordered and built ahead of time, they’re ideal for
spontaneous projects.

All in all, if you’re seeking flexibility in regards to timespan, the amount of

space in your home, or the way you need to transport the materials, rafters
may be the right choice for you. Of course, it’s always best to consult with a
roofing expert before making your final decision.

RAFTER CONS

Although rafters are a popular and high-quality way to frame your roof,
they also have a few disadvantages that you’ll want to know about. The
cons of using rafters include:

 They’re usually more expensive than trusses – When you factor in

the labor rate and materials, rafters are typically more expensive than
trusses. If you’re on a budget, trusses may make more sense.
 They can take longer to build – If you have to deal with inclement
weather, the building process will take longer. This is because the
entire structure will need to be tarped until the rain is over.

A. Causes of Rafter Damage

Common Causes of Rafter Damage
It is more common to discover that a rafter has been damaged and will
need repair. Many factors can lead to the damage of roof rafters.

Excessive Weight
Consistent weight bearing down on a section of the roof can cause damage
over time. This could be the case in cold climates when heavy snow builds
up on the roof and temperatures prevent melting and runoff. This may also
occur when a tree grows in such a way as to rest the weight of a limb on
the roof.
 

Sudden Impact
This type of damage is often seen in the aftermath of a severe storm. When
high winds cause a tree to fall against the roof or other airborne objects to
impact it, that sudden strike can cause damage to a rafter even if the
external damage seems minimal.

Flaws in the Wood

Even hardwoods can contain inherent flaws that will cause areas of
weakness in the beam. If the wood used to build a rafter has existing weak
spots, over time the pressure on the wood may cause this flaw to crack or
split the rafter.

Construction Activity
It is possible that other work on the roof structure can cause damage to the
rafters. For instance, a roofer might cause too great of an impact on one
rafter causing it to crack, or someone working on ductwork could
accidentally cut into a beam creating a weak spot that will worsen in the
future.

Simple Repairs
The most common rafter repair involves the placement of a patch,
sometimes referred to as scabbing:

 If the damage has resulted in the rafter sagging, you will need to use
a construction jack to push the rafter back into its desired position
before repairing it.
 Cut two braces from a length of hardwood. Braces should match the
width of the original rafter and extend at least a foot past the damage
on both ends. Longer braces will provide more strength and some
professionals suggest extending as much as four feet from the site of
the damage.
  Effectively sandwich the damaged rafter by adhering the braces on
both sides of the rafter with construction glue and then screwing all
three pieces together. Screws should be placed every 6 inches along
the length of the repair.

B. Reinforcing Roof Rafters

How To Reinforce a Roof Rafter

Especially for those living in an area that receives heavy snow or is known
to experience severe storms, it may be prudent to reinforce roof rafters
before damage has a chance to occur. This can be done in a variety of ways:

 Double the width of the rafter by using two beams rather than one
 Install extra rafters between the originals
 Build a supporting wall underneath the ceiling joists
 Install larger ceiling joists
 Add verticle support posts between the rafters and the ceiling joists
with a horizontal support beam
Timber vs metal frames
Timber is by far the most common material for house framing in Australia. This is
largely due to price - a timber frame is significantly cheaper than a metal one. As a
result there are a lot more tradesmen who work with timber frames and the
competition reduces prices even further.

A metal frame is stronger and will stand up better to natural disasters such as fire,
strong winds and earthquakes. Although a steel frame may corrode in coastal areas,
metal won’t warp or rot and is resistant to termites.
Additionally, a steel frame's greater load bearing capacity may also eliminate the
need for internal loadbearing walls. Steel and aluminium are recyclable and, unlike
timber, are often cut to the correct size before they reach the building site, reducing
waste. In most modern construction, things like trusses and other large framing
elements are assembled offsite and then transported to the building site.