Farrier 2012 Sailing Manual

Sailing Manual For All
Farrier Designs
Revised August 15, 2012
Includes F-22, F-82, F-85SR, F-32, F-32SR, F-36, F-39,

F-41, F-44SC, and all variations
This manual has been compiled to help you to operate your Farrier
design with safety and enjoyment. It contains details of the craft, and
information on its operation and maintenance. Please read it care-
fully and familiarize yourself with your trimaran before using it.
If this is your first sailboat or multihull, for your own comfort or

safety, please ensure that you obtain handling and operating expe-
rience before assuming command of the craft. Your national sailing
federation or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sailing
schools or competent instructors.
PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECURE

PLACE, AND PASS ON TO THE NEW
OWNER WHEN YOU SELL YOUR BOAT
If required, a replacement copy of this Manual can be

purchased from Farrier Marine, current contact details
being available from www.f-boat.com
Design_____________________
Sail Number___________
Owner 1. __________________________ Owner 2. _________________________ Owner 3. ________________________

________________________________ ________________________________ _______________________________
________________________________ ________________________________ _______________________________
_______________________________ ________________________________ _______________________________
This Sailing Manual is the copyrighted property of Farrier Marine,

and is not to be used for any unauthorized purpose.
FARRIER MARINE Page 1 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

Contents
General............................................... 3 Technical Notes...................................31
Preparation.......................................... 3 Winch line......................................... 31
Loading .............................................. 3 Spring Retaining Clips...................... 31
Safety Compartment........................... 4 Launching......................................... 31
Outboard Motor.................................. 4 Hoisting Mainsail.............................. 31
Trailering ............................................5 Bearing Away.................................... 31
Rigging................................................6 Heavy Helm...................................... 31
Launching........................................... 9 Rudder/Daggerboard hum.................31
Mast Raising On The Water................ 11 Rudder Ventilation............................ 31
Daggerboard & Centerboard ..............11 Stay/Shroud Tensioners.................... 32
Rudder........................................................... 12 Compression Pads............................. 32
Mast Setup..................................................12 Beam Bolts........................................ 32
Sailing..........................................................13 Wingnets............................................32
The Basics......................................... 13 Bimini Top Storage............................33
Reefing.............................................. 14 Float/Beam Vents.............................. 33
Rotating Mast Control.......................15 Rust....................................................33
Windward Performance.....................16 Cleaning Floats..................................33
Reaching............................................17 Clean Boat Hint.................................33
Screacher........................................... 17 Collision............................................ 33
Spinnaker...........................................17 Hurricane Survival............................ 34
Spinnaker Jibing................................18 Folding Assistance.............................35
Spinnaker Sailing Downwind............18 SPECIFICATIONS ..........................36
Safe Sailing Recommendations.........19 Typical Trailer Setup ..........................39
Sailing Hints......................................20 Typical Deck Layout........................... 40
Anchoring............................................23 F-32 Raising Mast.............................. 41
Beaching..............................................23 F-22 Sail Plan..................................... 42
Retrieving To Trailer .......................... 23 F-82 Sail Plan..................................... 43
De-rigging .......................................... 24 F-32 Sail Plan..................................... 44
Lifting Out.......................................... 25 F-33 Sail Plan......................................45
Marina Docking.................................. 25 F-36 Sail Plan......................................46
Safety...................................................26 F-39 Sail Plan......................................47
Unsinkability..................................... 27 F-41 Sail Plan......................................48
Offshore Sailing ............................... 27 Maintenance & Safety Checklist ........49
Capsize.............................................. 28 Maintenance & Safety Checklist ........50
Righting.............................................29 Fire Precautions.................................. 51
Personal Responsibility ....................30 Safe Sailing Recommendations...........52
Safety In General ..............................30
FARRIER MARINE,
www.f-boat.com
Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 2 FARRIER MARINE

The first 5 Trailertris of different types on the beach in Moreton Bay (Brisbane), Queensland. Farrier designs have now been
sailing world wide for over 35 years, and the experience from all these years is the basis for this manual.
and batteries, life buoy, flares, a chart of the area to be

GENERAL sailed, food, water, and adequate fuel.
This manual contains important information about the safe
operation and maintenance of your Farrier designed trima- LOADING
ran. Read it carefully, become familiar with the procedures Multihulls should be treated like aircraft when it comes
described, and follow the recommendations to help make your to loading. Farrier designs are light, responsive craft, and
sailing enjoyable and trouble-free. due to their narrow waterline do not have an unlimited
load carrying ability. Overloading can affect performance
Your Farrier trimaran is designed and built as a high and handling, while excessive overloading can also
performance family cruising yacht, which when used as affect safety margins, the ratio of float buoyancy relative
intended, with its enormous stability and unsinkability, is to the total weight becoming lower. A higher ratio is faster
one of the safest, most comfortable, and fastest sailboats and safer. Always be conscious of weight and avoid
afloat. However, while speed is an important advantage, carrying unnecessary items.
it should be remembered that it is not necessarily the The load-carrying capacity of the different Farrier
most important multihull feature. Slow gentle sailing can designs is listed under Specifications towards the back of
be even more enjoyable when combined with the this manual. Some overloading is acceptable for general
multihull's spacious and level decks to lounge on. sailing in sheltered waters, the only adverse effect being
As you become familiar with your boat, you may a loss in performance. However, an overloaded boat
discover alternative methods of operation that have offshore in large waves can become dangerous due to
advantages. We would appreciate if you would share greater loads generated in the structure, and the slug-
these with us so that we can share them with other gishness which can prevent the boat from rising to go
owners and this can be done on the F-boat forum, of over or with the waves, as it should.
which there are several, as listed at. When storing supplies, try to keep all heavy items
http://www.f-boat.com/pages/forum.html located as low down as possible and in the forward end
PREPARATION of the cabin. Avoid storing any heavy items aft of the
Before going sailing, you will need to provide the main entry hatch inside, as too much weight aft can cause
proper safety equipment as required by local regulations. transom drag, affecting performance. Farrier designs
This should include life jackets for all crew members, have a very buoyant bow, which actually lifts at speed,
safety harnesses for children, anchor, compass, bilge and additional weight should always be kept forward
pump, fog horn, First Aid kit, fire extinguishers, flashlight rather than aft.

Should your model have float storage, avoid heavy OUTBOARD MOTOR
loads in the floats. These should only be used for light
The recommended motor size is given in the specifi-
bulky items such as sails, fenders etc. Heavy weight in
cations in your original literature and later in this Manual.
the ends of any boat, be it the bow, stern, or floats, can
This is more than adequate for most circumstances.
adversely affect the general motion.
A long shaft motor is the minimum required, and the
To maintain a light boat, and that sparkling edge of
extra long 25" shaft motors are the best. A remote
performance, it is highly recommended that you go
control can also help make operation very easy with aft
through everything on board several times a year, and
cabin models. With weight being important, try to choose
take off any items that do not get used. This prevents the
the lightest possible outboard.
gradual buildup of unnecessary weight.
There are a number of specialist ‘Sail Boat’ motors
SAFETY COMPARTMENT now available and some of these are designed for heavy,
Before sailing, it is important that the Safety Compart- hard to push, displacement boats, and their propellers
ment be loaded with the appropriate safety gear. This are effectively ’geared down’ to give high thrust at low
compartment is accessible from top or bottom and should speeds. However, Farrier trimarans have a very easily
have been built in as per the plans. driven hull and may not need such a propeller. The result
Its purpose is to keep important safety equipment that can be the same as always driving your car in low gear.
should be available to the crew in any emergency situa- You will have plenty of thrust, but speed is low, and
tion, especially a capsize. The equipment stored here economy can be poor. These motors do have advan-
should include flares, a handheld VHF radio, EPIRB tages, and if used, you may need to experiment with
(offshore), extra line, spare tools, cutting implements etc. different propellers to get the best and most efficient
in watertight bags (this is not a watertight compart- performance.
ment). Refer to the engine manual for details of operation,
maintenance and winter storage. Always be sure you
WARNING: No multihull should venture offshore have enough fuel for your planned trip.
without safety gear in such a compartment that The motor can be used while the floats are extended
must be accessible from under the craft or folded and should always be tilted up when sailing.
An F-22 on the trailer, with outboard and daggerboard rudder. This type of rudder can be lifted fully up for local
trailering or removed altogether for long distance trips. Note separate light bar high up and well clear of water

Daggerboard or
centerboard SHOULD
ALWAYS BE DOWN
when motoring, which
will prevent sideways
movement. If not, the
boat will tend to have a
hovercraft like motion
with wide skidding
turns. Having the board
fully down means that
handling will always be
excellent.
TRAILERING
The total towing
weight can vary con-
siderably, depending
on the design and op-
tions fitted. The actual
weight can be deter- An F-33 on trailer, separate light bar in place on aft mast support, and daggerboard
mined exactly by using rudder blade removed for trailering . Lights can also be separately mounted each side
a weighbridge. (see below left), and this makes it much easier to store in vehicle.
Check also that the
vehicle is approved and equipped as recommended by nected to the towing vehicle. Independent wiring avoids
its manufacturer for towing this weight, and the capacity the frequent breakdowns that occur with wiring through
of the towing hitch is suitable. the trailer being attacked by saltwater. When the trailer is
While towing, watch for strong crosswinds. A Farrier being towed on its own, the lights can be mounted directly
design is a relatively light boat for towing, but it still has to the trailer.
considerable windage. For easy, stable towing, the trailer Before trailering, check that tires are inflated correctly,
should be balanced to have 8 to 10% of the total weight the beam locking pins are in place, the rudder is fully up
on the coupling ball. This can be measured by a bath- and secure, the pop-top or hatch is secured, and the boat
room scale. If you find ‘fish tailing’ occurs, increase this is tied down to the trailer. There should always be one tie-
tongue weight. If necessary, a simple change like shifting down per side, these being looped around the winches or
the gas tank or outboard forward can make a consider- brackets on the cockpit coamings, and tied to the tie-
able difference to trailer behavior. down loops on the trailer. The bow eye should also be tied
Trailer lights can be fitted either on special brackets or down to the winch post, in addition to the winch line.
as a separate light bar on the boat’s transom. They are Check that all the trailer supports always bear equally
best independent from the trailer, as the wiring then never against the hulls. Use extra ties for long distances.
gets near the water, considerably improving reliability. If When trailering, BE SURE to pivot up or remove the
separate, be sure to fit the correct lights on the appropri- trailer jockey wheel, and check that the hitch is locked on
ate sides. The wire should be run along the top of the to the ball.
boat, looped around the foredeck cleat and then con- Should the mast extend aft past the trailer lights by
more than the legal amount, the appropriate warning flag
should be tied on the back. If mast extends too far aft it
can be positioned further forward which will eliminate any
excessive overhang. However, this may not be possible
if the towing vehicle is a tall van.
When trailering, always allow extra distance for stop-
ping. Particularly watch for low bridges, overhanging
trees or awnings etc. If necessary, the boat can be
partially unfolded on the trailer in order to pass under a
low bridge.
CAUTION
Measure and KNOW overall height on the trailer.
Care should then be taken to avoid all low
overhead bridges, awnings or roofs.
Trailer lights are mounted separately each side on this F-27

RIGGING
The following is a general rigging procedure and
applies to all designs. For ease of rigging, it is highly
recommended that you follow this general procedure, as
it has been developed from hundreds of launchings and
proven to be fast, easy and efficient.
CAUTION
Always park into the wind, or uphill, to help the
mast stay in line while being raised. Trailer should
remain hooked to towing vehicle
Two should be able to completely rig an F-22 or F-32

Mast raising pole in position on an F-28 with winch line
ready to launch within 15 - 25 minutes of arriving at the
connected to jib halyard, ready to raise mast. Depending on
ramp by using the correct procedure. It is possible in fact,
design, take care that rotating mast is restrained once up so
for F-22 to be launched, unfolded, and sailing within 12
that it cannot topple forwards. This can be done by using the
minutes. One person should be able to have the F-32 Corsair type Highfield Lever to connect shrouds to float
rigged and launched in around 30 - 35 minutes. However, chainplates, on older designs like F-28 and F-31. Modern
note that loading any extra gear or supplies onto the boat designs like the F-22 or F-32 do not require these.
is not counted in these times.
3. Place the mast raising pole on the foredeck ready
DANGER for use. Climb onto the bow using nonskid areas on the
float bows as stepping points.
Before starting to rig, check that there are no
powerlines that the mast could touch, either while
being raised or moved to launch ramp CAUTION
The float bows can be slippery. Particularly warn
Don’t be dismayed if it takes you considerably longer the children to take care when climbing up or down
first few times out. It will take a little practice to become
familiar with the procedures, and the more you rig the
4. Move aft alongside the mast undoing the mast ties
boat, the easier and quicker it will become. However, it is
(at each end) and the rigging ties as you go.
very important to follow a set procedure each time.
5. Lift the forward end of the mast and walk aft, rolling
Recommended Set-Up Procedure Is As Follows: the mast on the aft mast roller while checking that the
1. Remove the trailer tie-downs, and the trailer lights. rigging lines or wires do not catch. Stop once the mast
The tie-downs can be tied together and used as the bow foot is over the pivot brackets. Now’s the time to fit any
line for launching. Saves stowing them, and then finding masthead indicator to the top of the mast. Lift the mast
a bow line. up until the indicator can be fitted to the masthead from
the ground behind the boat. If rigging single-handed, the
2. Undo the trailer winch hook, and pull some slack so mast can usually be balanced in this position to do this.
that the hook will pass over the bow or mast raising roller. With rotating masts, the mast yoke will now need to be
Place on the foredeck. fitted to the mast foot using the through pin (yoke can also
be fitted prior to rolling mast back, or be left on the foot at
prior de-rigging). This can vary with different models so
check specific drawings for your particular step (can be
downloaded from F-boat forum files)
6. The mast foot is now connected to the mast step as

follows:
F-22: Slots onto pin in step.
F-82: Pinned to brackets on cabin roof.
F-9A: Plugged onto pin in deck step.
F-9R: Attach yoke to deck brackets with fast pins
F-32: Slots onto pin in step.
In some cases, it may be necessary to push the mast
firmly aft to fit to step. If difficult, check that all stays are
F-22 mast rolled back and attached to the deck pivot clear, the terminals into the mast have not snagged
brackets, with mast raising pole in place. sideways, and the mast is centered on the aft roller.

7. If required, fit the mast raising
wires, running from an eye on the mast
to the side anchors on the cabin roof
(aligned with the mast pivot point). These
raising wire anchors can be chainplates,
or 'lift up loops' depending on design.
Some designs such as the F-27 and F-
25A use the lower shrouds to stabilize
mast.
Note that the length of these raising
wires should be adjustable and they
should be slightly loose and monitored
on the first mast raising. This is to ensure
they cannot become overtight during the
initial raising procedure. They should
never be more than moderately tight,
and, once adjusted and set, need no
further monitoring or adjustment. Avoid
any line here as it stretches too much.
An alternative to raising wires is to
use spinnaker or screacher halyards. These can also Raising wire Deck Loops - these work well to anchor raising
provide an extra backup in difficult conditions, but they wires as they can fold down to be flush on deck when not in
take longer to setup. If used, they must be cleated to use. F-33 mast step with raising pole yoke shown above and
below left. The same basic mast raising setup applies for
bottom of mast.
both on trailer or on water mast raising.
has been unhooked from the mast). Winch
line should extend at least two feet (60cm)
aft of the mast pole fork.
10. Now check the following:

a. All halyards are positioned or led
correctly from the base of the mast, and
that jib halyard is SECURELY TIED OFF to
the cleat on side of mast.
b. Rotating mast shrouds to floats
should be positioned so as to avoid catch-
ing on anything which can cause damage
during raising procedure.
Later models (F-22 & F-32) always
leave the stays attached to floats, but on
many earlier models stays have to be
released to fold. In this case a solution is to
use a Highfield lever to attach shroud to float chain-
8. Position the mast raising pole on the mast or in the
plate (photo on Page 23). Otherwise a block and
yoke socket. Attach the wire from the top of the pole to
tackle can be used to attach shroud to aft beam area
the eye on the front of the mast, with the pole being
on float, but be careful that mast is always supported
approximately perpendicular to the mast.
when up and raising wires have been removed.
If considered necessary, (strong cross winds or single-
handed) additional light side lines can be fitted from the
pole end to the raising wire anchors (as shown above) to CAUTION
stabilize pole better sideways. With rotating masts, the side stays must always
Where a yoke is used (rotating masts) the length of be connected to the floats, otherwise there is a
the wire from the pole to the mast can also be adjusted, danger of mast toppling forward if over winched.
and a little experimenting will give an almost perfect
moderate tension on the raising wires throughout the 11. The mast is now winched up, CHECKING AGAIN
complete raising procedure. FOR POWERLINES.
Check to see that all rigging wires are clear and have
9. Take the trailer winch line hook, pull it back over not snagged anywhere, particularly aft chainplates on F-
the pole and then connect it to the jib halyard (after it 9As. Raising wires should initially be slightly loose, and

they are not disconnected from chainplate. The more
modern Farrier designs (F-22, F-32, and F-32SR) do not
need these levers, as their latest folding geometry allows
boat to be folded without detaching the side stays.
CAUTION
Winch operator should be careful to ensure trailer
winch line lays evenly across the drum while mast
is being raised. With an offset bow roller there can
be a tendency for incoming line to pile up on one
side of the drum to where it can suddenly slip off.
Larger masts can be heavy, with high loads, and extra

care should be taken to ensure they do not swing too far
sideways. Never park in a cross wind or sideways on a
slope, unless extra help is available to steady mast.
12. Connect forestay once the mast is fully up. At initial

rigging, mast rake should be set to around 3 to 4 , which
is slightly more than the rake of the aft edge of the forward
beams when viewed from the side. Once initial adjust-
ment has been done, the forestay turnbuckle does not
need to be undone during normal rigging or de-
rigging, only the clevis pin is removed or inserted.
Lower and intermediate shrouds on the fixed F-27, F-
F-31R/F-9R mast half way up, winch line just about to 9A/F-31 mast remain connected during all rigging
leave 'cradle' on raising pole. Watch float shroud and de-rigging procedures. After the initial adjustment,
turnbuckles if fitted, as they are easily snagged and bent. there is also no need to undo these or disconnect them
If one has to park on a side slope or be in a cross wind, from the shroud chainplates.
then it is also a good idea to have someone on deck to
stabilize mast or raising pole, or use extra side lines to 13. Once forestay is connected, slacken off the trailer
stabilize pole, particularly on larger models. winch, disconnect jib halyard, and return it to the mast.
tighten slightly on the way up.

If the mast raising pole tends to twist sideways then
this can be controlled by light lines to the raising wire
anchors as mentioned earlier.
CAUTION
During mast raising, it is very important to be alert
to all items of rigging lifting or supporting the mast.
If any resistance to raising is felt at any point,
STOP, and check nothing has fouled. Do not
proceed until any obstruction is clear
Check that the socket in the rotating mast foot aligns

correctly with the pivot ball on the deck with earlier
rotating masts, as the mast nears the fully up position.
Monitor the float stays with rotating masts on initial
rigging to ensure they do not become too tight or catch on
anything during raising.
Corsair models with rotating masts use custom High-
field levers to connect side stays to the float chainplates
and these give the stays just enough slack for the mast
to be fully raised when the float is folded, while preventing
any danger of the mast toppling forward.
These Highfield levers can be purchased from Corsair
and are an important safeguard against accidently Mast raising wires may need to stay attached until after the
dropping the mast while folding or unfolding, provided boat is unfolded, depending on model. F-28 shown.

Remove raising pole etc., rewind the
winch and reconnect hook to the bow
eye.
Leave rotating mast raising wires
attached to the mast, as these may still
be required for support until after the
floats are unfolded and stays are prop-
erly connected to floats.
14. The topping lift is now discon-

nected from the mast lower end and
connected to the end of the boom to help
take the weight. Remove the sail bag
from the mainsail/boom and connect the
boom to the mast.
15. Tighten all the battens in the

mainsail, if required. Connect the main-
sheet to the boom. Feed the mainsail
head into the track on the mast and connect the main Launching an F-33
halyard This helps to prevent any sideways movement, and gives
excellent maneuverability under power.
16. If required, run all the halyard lines from the mast Some models are large boats to handle at ramps, but
through the turning blocks back to the correct rope because of their lightness, are easy to move around. The
clutches on the aft end of the cabin roof. trick is not to fight it, but to plan ahead what you are going
17. Connect the mast electric plug if required. to do, and gently guide it in the correct direction.
An offshore wind at the ramp is ideal, as the boat will
18. The headsail can be fitted now if wished, or after lie quietly downwind at the end of the bow line. It 's then
launching. The sheets are laid out and connected to the just a simple matter of boarding over the float bows, and
clew (sheets can be kept in the anchor well for quick backing off or just walking her over to a boarding dock, if
access). The headsail can be kept under control by a available.
shockcord which can be left on the foredeck for this An onshore wind is the most difficult, as the boat will
purpose. Just keep it hooked to the toerail or pulpit. swing sideways once launched, and come towards the
ramp. In this situation the boat should be held off the ramp
19. Fit or untie rudder so it is ready for use (still from a central position on the side. You will find a balance
retracted), and check that daggerboard up-line is cleated. point where it will lie evenly until you are ready to board.
Outboard motor should also be in the up position. If a dock is alongside it is a good idea to run a stern line
20. The aft mast support is now removed and stored. to the dock, so that the stern can be pulled to the dock
after launching, thus preventing it from swinging around.
WARNING A good way of launching in all conditions, if extra help
Before taking boat to the water check there are no is available, is for someone on board to start the motor
powerlines that the mast could touch before launching, and simply back the boat away from the
ramp, remembering to immediately drop the dagger-
board once clear of trailer.
LAUNCHING
Back the trailer down the ramp until the trailer is
submerged up until just past the inward bend of the side
frame members (about 6 to 8' back from the winch post).
Disconnect winch hook and push the boat off while
holding on to the bow line, or you can get on board
(having started the motor first). Be careful of crosswinds
or wind from the stern. The boat, with its shallow draft, will
move quickly sideways in such conditions, and you
should not launch until there is sufficient maneuvering
room alongside.
This ability to go sideways is one drawback of shallow
draft, and you should always make allowances when
launching/retrieving or under power. First priority at
every launch should be to LOWER DAGGERBOARD!

beam locking pins, place your foot on the top of the
upper folding strut, grasp the top of the beam and pull
downwards, while pushing with your foot.
WARNING
Always check that no one has their foot or hand in
or near beam recess when folding as the beams
can come down quickly!
The float will unfold, but be careful it doesn’t pick up

too much speed towards the end. Hold the beam down
and tighten the bolts using a speed wrench. These bolts
should be tightened firmly, but NOT OVERTIGHTENED.
Folding stability is good, but it is limited, so don't push your
luck. A few owners have managed to roll their folded boats WARNING
over. Take particular care with tall rigged R versions, and The beam bolts must always be in place and
avoid tight fast turns in strong cross winds. tightened before sailing
All designs are always launched folded, and unfolding
can be done either at the dock, or while motoring away, If anything seems hard or difficult when folding, STOP
even in choppy conditions. Folded stability is good, but and see if anything is misaligned, or snagged. It is usually
it is limited, particularly on bigger boats like the F-9 a wingnet catching. Should it be difficult to hold beams
& F-32, and even LESS so with 'R' masts. down to tighten the bolts, then usual cause is wingnets
Take care in strong winds, as it is possible to roll boat that have been lashed too tightly.
over! If necessary, immediately unfold at least one side It is not necessary to hold both forward and aft beams
to avoid any risk. The F-32 has a secondary wider folded when folding, one person operating either beam is all that
beam of 9' 6" which improves folded stability, and if an F- is required, except for larger designs. The wingnets will
32R, or motoring very far while folded, use this position. extend and tighten themselves. There is a knack in
unfolding of using both your foot to push on the upper
WARNING folding strut and your hands to pull the top of the beam in
Always take care in strong winds while fully folded and down. After a few tries you will find it easy to do.
and with mast up. A combination of a fast tight turn The side stays are now secured correctly to the float
and mast windage and weight could cause a roll chainplates, where required. They may already be at-
over in such conditions. If in doubt, unfold one or tached with rotating masts, or where the stays have
both sides to eliminate this danger. Highfield levers fitted. Just close the levers to tension.
With the F-27 & F-9/F-31 fixed mast, the turnbuckle
See also http://www.f-boat.com/foldedstability/ must be directly connected to chainplate, and there
To unfold, first check that there are no ropes across should be just enough slack in the wire (but not too
the beam recesses, and the tiller is clear. Remove the much - which can overload tensioners) to insert the
clevis pins. The stays are then tensioned by the block and
F-33 being unfolded at dock. Folding is harder on larger

designs with low profile beams and foot should be placed on
Upper Folding Strut for leverage. May take two, or block Turnbuckles have now been replaced by deadeyes and
and tackle assistance can be used if necessary - see later. lashing on later models - much lighter and easier on boat

MAST RAISING ON THE WATER
It may be necessary to sometimes launch with mast
down and raise it later. To do this you will need an
additional strong block to attach to the bow roller/stem
fitting. A spinnaker sheet block is ideal and can be lashed
around bow if no suitable fitting is present. The mast
raising pole/yoke must also be carried on board.
Once in clear water, follow the same mast setup and
raising procedures listed under RIGGING, but instead of
the trailer winch line, a line from a sheet winch to the bow
block, and then back to the jib halyard is used to winch up.
The procedure is reversed for lowering.
F-27 shroud tensioner - these are used to take up the slack

necessary to allow easy connection of the stay to float
chainplate after unfolding.
tackle tensioners anchored at the aft beams and at-
tached to the shackle located about 4' up the top stays.
Pull these on firmly, checking that the mast is straight.
The first time out, both tensioner lines should be marked
when the mast is straight, as a reference for future use
and adjustment.
These tensioners on fixed masts need considerable
tightening when going to windward in high winds, as they
keep the mast straight and forestay tight for good point-
ing. Avoid letting the leeward shroud become too loose. BOARDS
Once adjusted at initial launching, turnbuckles should The daggerboard or centerboard have two control
not require to be adjusted during subsequent launchings. lines, one to pull up (red) and one to pull down (blue). The
Just release the Highfield levers with rotating masts or daggerboard will not kick back, and should break off if it
turnbuckles from the chainplate with fixed masts. ever hits bottom hard enough. This protects the dagger-
Rotating mast side stays only need to be moderately board case from damage in most cases - a much more
tight, even slightly loose, as a tight rig can restrict rotation. expensive repair.
Thus synthetic stays and the latest deadeye tensioners
can be used with rotating masts, and these save consid- CAUTION
erable weight aloft, and are much easier to handle. Even at low speeds, a grounding can cause the
Once the mast is properly supported by the stays, the crew to be thrown forward, and care should be
mast raising wires (where needed) can be removed. taken to avoid this. Slow down in shallow water.
The spinnaker pole bowsprit can now be fitted or
extended depending on model. Obviously, one should always be careful around shal-
low waters, keeping alert, and the boat speed
down. The daggerboard is very strong and will
only break off with an exceptionally hard
grounding. Normally you can expect the boat
to come to a shuddering stop, with no dam-
age, should you hit bottom at speeds less than
5 knots or so. It’s then just a matter of retract-
ing the daggerboard and continuing on your
way.
The daggerboard case itself is exception-
ally strong, and is not likely to be damaged in
a grounding, though this cannot be guaran-
teed. But even with a lost daggerboard, your
Farrier trimaran will still be sailable, and will
still go to windward. In this case you should
allow her to heel as far as possible, submerg-
ing the lee float to pick up lateral area.
The centerboard, as is optional for the F-
22, F-82, F-32, and F-36, can kick
back and is thus less likely to be
damaged in a grounding. However, it
should only be cleated in a cleat that
will let go at a certain load to avoid any
damage. A clam cleat with the teeth
filed slightly to reduce holding power
can be used for this. Never use a horn
cleat to hold the centerboard down.
When maneuvering in confined
waters always have the board down.
This promotes quick turns, prevent-
ing any sideways motion. In general,
the board should always be down,
except perhaps when running down-
wind in light conditions. However, no
speed advantage has ever been found
for this, so probably easier to just
leave it down. F-22 daggerboard rudder lifted partially up. The best solution for shallow water
The board should always be half to fully down when
running or reaching in heavy winds or seas. It greatly These should be color coded, with red (for danger) to pull
enhances directional control, keeping the tiller very light. up, blue, for deep water, to pull down. The rudder will kick
Should you at any time find the helm heavy, then back, should it hit bottom hard enough, the pull down line
the causes could be the daggerboard being up, the pulling through the cleat.
rudder has kicked back slightly (always watch for this), At high speeds, the cleat alone may not be enough to
or is not raked forward enough. Another possible hold rudder down. In this case, a lock/shear pin can be
cause can be the mainsail sheeted in too tight (a fitted through the case and blade as a positive lock down.
common fault). Even in the strongest winds, or the It is also a good idea to fit a horn cleat on the tiller as
fastest 20 knot spinnaker run, the helm should always a backup, but this should only be used if the hold down
be light enough for easy one-handed control. If not, cleat is worn, and the lock/shear pin is not available.
you should check for reasons why. Never use the horn cleat where there is a danger of
RUDDER grounding.
Kick back rudders were used on all earlier designs, but The rudder is held in the up position by the pull up line,
these do not work well in shallow water. Later designs except with transom hung rudders, where the pull down
now have lift up daggerboard rudders, which are much line can actually work better once the rudder is lifted
more effective. It is just a simple pull up or push down, and vertically.
depth/wetted area can be varied to suit the situation. MAST SETUP
The daggerboard blade can also kick back in some Rig tension and mast setup are very important for
models, or is designed so that case aft end strip will shear good sailing performance and while rotating masts do not
out in any grounding, so boat escapes any damage. require much rig tension (to allow full mast rotation), most
The earlier kick back rudders still work well and have owners do not tension the fixed mast rigs enough. To
two control lines, one to pull up and one to pull down. avoid this, a simple rig tension gauge (Loos Type recom-
mended) available at Marine stores can be purchased,
and this includes hints on tensioning your rig. Rigging
wire will stretch a little initially and all settings should be
checked after a few sails.
Rotating masts can use synthetic rigging, which will
stretch a little more, but this does not matter on a rotating
mast. Synthetic rigging is much lighter, easier on the
boat, easier to handle, and is now the recommended
choice.
Depending on type, synthetic rigging will stretch more
the first time out, sometimes considerably, so it needs to
be tightened up as you go. But once the initial stretching
phase is over it becomes very stable and only needs the
occasional check.
All masts should be set up with some prebend (center
F-33 daggerboard rudder, with blade fully down of mast pushed forward). This will range from as little as

SAILING
This manual is not intended to be a Sailing
Instruction Manual, and it is presumed that all owners
will have a basic sailing knowledge and skill. There are
however, many aspects of sailing a Farrier trimaran
efficiently, and the following covers some of these:
THE BASICS
The mainsail is usually hoisted first. Turn directly into
the wind and commence pulling on the halyard. You may
find winching necessary to get the main fully up, and if
fitted, use the jib halyard winch. If the boom roller furling
system is fitted, the main will automatically unroll from the
boom. Winch the halyard tight until all the wrinkles just
disappear from the mainsail luff, no tighter, and lock the
halyard with the rope clutch. The topping lift can now be
eased.
All models sail and tack easily under mainsail alone,
unless a non-standard mainsail with an oversize square-
top/roach has been fitted. These can be impossible to
tack main only, plus be dangerous downwind.
If you have a lot of tacking to clear a channel then it
may be much easier with just the main. You don’t have to
worry about tacking the jib, you won’t be going too fast,
particularly in crowded waters, and visibility is excellent.
3/4" with Rotating masts (even less with wing masts), to The correct technique for sailing mainsail only is to
3 to 5" with fixed masts. Mainsail should then be cut to sheet it free to avoid choking the boat. The traveller can
suit this. be locked on the centerline, and the mainsheet slack-
There is no correct amount of prebend as such, other ened off so the boom is about 12" out from center. Your
than each mast should have some, as it will help stabilize boat speed should be 5 - 6 knots in 10 to 15 knots of wind,
the mast, and it can also be used to control the mainsail even better with a rotating mast. If less, then the problem
shape to some degree. This means that if the mainsail is is an oversheeted main or trying to point too high.
cut for say 3" prebend, less will make the main fuller for There is a technique involved in sailing main only, and
light airs. More will tend to flatten the main for windy
conditions.
Prebend in Rotating masts is harder to adjust in this
regard, but the ability to rotate the mast can give an even
greater control over mainsail fullness.
For good windward performance the forestay MUST
BE TIGHT and this is essential. Fixed masts can increase
forestay tension by pulling on the shroud tensioners,
along with more mainsheet tension. Rotating masts can
only use mainsheet tension, but the superior mainsail
shape due to the rotating mast, more than makes up for
any jib luff sag
An important rule, vital to the well being of all masts,
particularly fixed masts, is to be sure that your leeward
cap shroud never becomes TOO LOOSE. Some loose-
ness is not unusual, but if it is very loose and visibly
flopping around, you could risk losing your mast.
To tighten the shrouds on a fixed mast while under-
way, you can use the spinnaker winches on the tensioners,
or else snug up the leeward tensioner a set amount to just
remove any slack. Now tack and pull on the other side an
equal amount. It is easier to tension the leeward shroud
rather than the windward one.
On the F-9/F-31 fixed mast the top shroud's tension in
heavy weather should always be 2500lbs or more.......... Even an extreme racer like the F-32SR can sail well main
Don’t forget to relieve this when not sailing. only, provided mainsail roach is not oversize
once learned how, it is a very relaxed
form of sailing. The secret is to keep
the main eased out more, particularly
after a tack. Don’t try to point high until
boat speed has built up.
Jib halyard can now be connected
and the jib hoisted. Tighten until the
wrinkles just disappear from the jib luff,
using the halyard winch if needed.
There's no need to go any tighter. As
the wind increases you will find the
halyard will need tightening, again, just
enough to just get the wrinkles out.
Sheet the jib and you are sailing!
If available, two additional controls
may be added to the mainsail at this
stage, these being the boom vang (fixed
masts only) which just snaps on, and
the Cunningham eye tackle. A min. 4:1
Jib barber hauler in use on an F-27 - will considerably boost performance
fiddle block with cleat is snap shackled
to the mast step, and the line from the top fiddle block is coaming. Two barber haulers give a wide range of sheet
passed through the Cunningham eye on the sail and adjustment. One can also be used on the boom to hold it
connected to the horn cleat on the other side of the mast. down while running or reaching. This is more effective
This will give an 8 : 1 purchase, and should be adjusted than a traditional boom vang and a good safety feature to
to just remove the wrinkles from the mainsail luff. Neither prevent an unexpected jibe.
of these controls are essential for everyday sailing, their For the best performance while running, weight should
main purpose being to give more efficient control over the be kept forward. At least one crew member should sit on
mainsail. Both must be removed when roller furling. the main hull bow when racing downwind. This reduces
Farrier trimarans are sailed like any other yacht, the wetted area and can make a significant difference.
most notable differences being the response, lightness of REEFING
helm, and low angle of heel. This ranges from an average
Several different reefing systems can be fitted, and all
of 5 to 10 degrees to a maximum of about 15 degrees.
the various operation procedures are well documented.
Pointing ability is excellent, but care must be taken not
With jiffy reefing, the reefing lines are led inside the boom
to oversheet or try to point too high. Just a few degrees
to cleats at the forward end, and if necessary down to the
less pointing, with sheets slackened slightly, can see
mast base and then back to a winch.
boat speed jump from 6 or 7 knots to 9 or 10 knots.
A roller reefing boom is also optional and this is a very
When reaching, the headsail shape can be improved
effective reefing system, being fast, easy to operate, and
by using a barber hauler. This is a line hooked to the
infinitely adjustable. The other main advantage is the
headsail clew, or a small block on the jib sheet (allows
ability to easily roll up the mainsail for storage.
easier tacking), then led to a block attached to an eye on
the float deck and then back to a camcleat on the cockpit Eye should also be
lashed around mast
Mast
FurledRolled Main
mainsail
Cunningham Eye line

Boom vang and Cunningham eye controls on an F-27 -
Boom vangs are not used with rotating masts as they will
restrict rotation Roller Furling Boom

F-28 Mainsail being roller furled. Note foot being used to
control halyard.
To reef, first disconnect the boom vang (if fitted) and
Cunningham eye tackle. The topping lift should also now
be used to lift the back of the boom a couple of inches
above horizontal. This stops the main from creeping
forward to bind against the mast when furling. This may An F-25C with boomless main and reefed
not be required, depending on the cut of the mainsail. mainsail rolling up close to and jamming against the
Now take the main halyard around the winch and mast, this is usually caused by not lifting the end of the
release the rope clutch. Go forward with the halyard held boom sufficiently with the topping lift.
in hand, unlock the furling handle and begin turning. As You may also find it easier to regulate the speed at
the main is rolled down, let the halyard slowly run out to which the halyard runs out, as you wind the boom, by
suit. When the main is rolled up sufficiently, lock the using the ball of your foot on the line just before it enters
furling handle, let off the topping lift, return to the cockpit the mast.
and retension the halyard. Reefing is complete. The boom vang cannot be reconnected, but with the
You should always try to locate the head of the reefed barber hauler system available, if needed, from the
mainsail close to or just above a staying point, rather than floats, this is not of any importance.
in the middle of a mast panel. This avoids unwanted The Cunningham eye tackle can be connected to the
bending loads on any unsupported mast section. reefing tack eye if wished, as shown, and again used to
As mentioned previously, if you find a problem with the tension the luff as required.
It is also advisable to take a line from the Cunningham
eye forward and around the mast. This avoids the possi-
bility of the bolt rope pulling out of the mast groove.
Boomless Mains: These are reefed differently and
can in fact be easier to reef. Luff is reefed the same as jiffy
reefing, using basically an extra long Cunningham Eye
tackle, with a single line threaded through the first reefing
eye. One pull and luff is reefed. It is also a good idea to
take a line around front of mast if reef is likely to last a
while, to ensure main luff cannot pull away from mast.
Leach end uses a rope clutch on side of clew board,
with a line running from opposite side of clewboard, up
through reefing eye, and back down to rope clutch. One
pull and leach is reefed. No need to disconnect main
sheet which just stays attached to clew eye.
ROTATING MAST CONTROL
The correct rotation of a rotating mast will give a much
more efficient and powerful mainsail. It is thus important
that the rig not be set up too tight as this can prevent full
rotation.
There are many opinions on what the correct amount
of rotation should be, but a general guideline is to keep
the mast rotated enough to give a smooth, even transition
Main neatly roller reefed on an F-27 from the mast to the mainsail on the leeward side.
The amount of rotation will depend on the type and
shape of mast, and can range from 35 to 90 degrees from
the boat centerline. A good rule of thumb is for the mast
to be rotated around 40 to 50 degrees more than the
boom.
CLOSE HAULED WITH MAST AT 40°

RELATIV E TO BOOM
40°
Avoid allowing the mast to rotate or swing back and

forth, which can happen in light winds combined with F-33 Mast Rotator Arm & attached to boom for self tacking
waves, or when sailing off the wind with less sail pres-
than an equivalent monohull, but this may not be the
sure. This is usually prevented by having the mainsheet
fastest way to windward. A good multihull is capable of
angled forward from the boom, which forces the boom
much higher speeds to windward than a mono, which
forward to keep the mast rotated when pulled tight.
also brings the apparent wind forward, to where pointing
The amount of mast rotation is controlled by a line to
will be lower, but the speed to windward is much greater.
the rotation arm on the mast from either the boom or the
One thing to avoid is oversheeting the headsail, as
deck. A line from the boom has the advantage of being
while pulling this on very tight will guarantee a good
self-tacking, by maintaining the mast at a constant rota-
pointing angle, the boat speed may be slow. The correct
tion angle relative to the boom on all points of sail.
way is to let the sheet out 1 - 2 “ from being tight on, so
However, the control line will have to be detached from a
that curve of the headsail leach matches the curve of the
roller furling boom and transferred to an eye on the deck
mainsail. It should then not backwind the main, and your
when furling the main.
pointing angle and boat speed should both be excellent.
A control line from the deck is also self-tacking, but it
Once you have achieved good boat speed, then
does not automatically adjust for different angles of sail.
experiment by tightening sheets a little, pointing slightly
It will thus need to be let out when bearing off. Some
higher, while trying to maintain the same boat speed.
racers like to fit two lines to the deck, one from each side
The mainsail traveller should be around 6" to wind-
for absolute control, but this can also be just another
ward in lighter conditions, then around the centerline in
complication and is not necessary for general sailing. A
moderate winds, and, as the wind increases, moved to
2 or 4 : 1 tackle is now recommended for the control line,
leeward slightly with more mainsheet tension being ap-
as the loads here can be high.
plied. In very strong winds the mainsheet should be
WINDWARD PERFORMANCE pulled on as tight as possible. Stand above it and pull it
All Farrier designs will point very high if set up and on as hard as you can - most sailors don't have this tight
sailed correctly, but this can also be very dependent on enough in strong winds. A tight mainsheet helps keep
the crew’s skill. It is possible to point just as high or higher forestay straight for good pointing ability.
If the jib is backwinding the main,
open the slot, by moving the traveller a
little more to center. Keeping an open
slot between jib and main is crucial to
good windward performance, as any back
winding of the main will choke the boat.
Equally as important, the jib must be
relatively flat with NO HOOK in the leach,
and not oversheeted. Leach battens are
highly recommended to keep the leach
flat.
If set up and sailed correctly, a Farrier
trimaran will match the windward ability
of the best monohull racers, 20 to 30%
larger. Pointing high and going fast is
one of the hardest things to achieve in
any boat, but with a little care and tuning
a Farrier design is one of the best.
F-27 hard on the wind off San Francisco

REACHING
When reaching, it is vital that the mainsail be let out far
enough. A common mistake is to sheet it in too tight, with
loss of boat speed, a heavy helm and an excessive heel
angle.
ALWAYS REMEMBER YOU WILL GENERALLY
GO FASTER BY EASING THE SHEETS OUT. PULL-
ING THEM ON TIGHTER IS MORE LIKELY TO SLOW
YOU DOWN
Your mainsail should have leach tell tails fitted as
standard. Watch these, and should they disappear be-
hind the mainsail to leeward, then you are sheeted in too
tight. They should always be flowing aft.
In light winds the mainsheet system can tend to bind
and be hard to let out. To overcome this there is some-
times a lever on the side of the camcleat block that
disconnects the ratchet. The mainsheet system will then
run out easily.
The headsail should also be barber hauled out to the
floats when reaching. This is used to get the perfect
shape in the headsail (so that it doesn’t backwind the
main), and will boost reaching performance significantly.
SCREACHER
This is an optional roller furling wire or synthetic luff
combination genoa/reacher, flown from the spinnaker
Screacher being used to windward on F-32SR, while doing
bow pole. A separate dedicated halyard just below the
16 knots in 8 knots of wind. Luff could be a little tighter, but
spinnaker halyard is best used for the screacher, as this very hard to do with that level of performance. A screacher
allows it to be left up while furled, ready for use. is also be a great allround easy to use sail for cruisers.
This multipurpose sail can be a perfect all-around, first
choice, additional sail for cruisers, or an essential power- advantages.
It can be used very effectively to windward in light airs,
house for racers. It is still a developing sail in many
if cut for this, and for reaching in moderate airs. It thus
respects, and offers some significant and worthwhile
eliminates the regular hank on genoa,
while providing more sail area, and it is
easier to change headsails. The jib is
just dropped and the screacher un-
furled when required. Sheeting can be
a simple strap around the aft beam,
which can be moved in and out for the
correct sheeting angle.
For the best windward performance,
it is very important to keep the luff tight,
and many racing owners have fitted 2
to 1 halyards to keep the clutch loads
lower. However, the risk of twist when
hoisting can then be higher, and cruis-
ers will usually not experience the sort
of high loads that some hard racers
can induce, in the search for the ulti-
mate performance.
The screacher can be tacked easily
when needed by rolling up and then
unrolling on the new side.
SPINNAKER
The spinnaker is an easy sail to use
on a trimaran, due to the wide beam
and level sailing. It is thus a practical
An F-33 with spinnaker, while screacher can be seen up and furled, ready for use and safe sail for family sailing, with very

concerns. The advantage is that the sail does not
have to fit through the narrow slot between spinnaker
and screacher.
With inside jibing, the skipper should start turning
slowly while the crew eases the sheet to keep the sail
full. As the clew nears the slot, or the spinnaker starts
to collapse, the new sheet should be quickly hauled in
to pull the spinnaker through the slot and around,
while also releasing the old sheet.
Outside jibing procedure is similar, with the crew
waiting until the clew reaches just in front of the
headstay, and then pulling in the new sheet, with the
sail going around the outside.
In all cases it is very important that the skipper turns
slowly, and then heads up to fill the sail before coming
to the right course.
SPINNAKER SAILING DOWNWIND
On first using an asymmetric spinnaker you may find
downwind performance disappointing with a fixed mast -
unless you note what is said here. The asymmetric
cannot match a symmetric spinnaker straight downwind
because of the smaller, flatter area, and the less projec-
tion to windward. The advantage is considerably easier
handling, and a superior reaching performance.
Tacking downwind does not work well with fixed masts,
Asymmetric spinnaker on an F-33R. Jib can also be flown as mast interferes with mainsail flow, and the main is not
inside by racers as shown for better performance as effective. A rotating mast is much more efficient and
few control problems. All Farrier designs now only use such boats can achieve a very large performance in-
asymmetric spinnakers, which are the easiest to use, and crease, making downwind tacking the fastest way to go.
the fastest if used correctly. However, the same effect can be achieved with a fixed
mast by using the jib inside the spinnaker which, besides
The asymmetric spinnaker can be launched from the
leeward wingnet, or main hull bow, and the sheets led increasing area, helps smooth the flow over the mast and
back to blocks on the floats near the aft beams for general main with spectacular results.
all round performance, though pointing ability is limited.
CAUTION: Avoid using continuous spinnaker

sheets, which can prevent the spinnaker from
being released easily.
For better pointing ability, a closer sheeting angle

is better, and a block on a movable strap around aft beam
works best. The spinnaker can then be set near perfectly,
without a tight foot or a loose and flapping leach.
The tack line is led from a block at end of the pole back
along main deck to a cleat on the aft end of cabin roof. To
set, connect tack line, sheet, and halyard. Pull on tack line
until tack is at the end of pole, hoist and then sheet in.
SPINNAKER JIBING
The asymmetric spinnaker can be jibed either through
inside in front of the screacher or forestay, or around the
outside. With 'inside' jibing the sheets are run between
the spinnaker tack and the screacher if fitted, forestay if
not. Outside jibing requires the sheets to be run outside
the spinnaker tack.
Inside jibing is probably the most common, as
outside jibing does have the risk of a sheet going
under the boat, though this is lessened by using a Asymmetric spinnaker being used on an F-27 while winning
continuous one piece sheet, but these have safety Australian Nationals

The basic technique is to sail downwind while keeping need to tack the jib, and the fully battened main remains
the apparent wind at about 90 , trimming the sails so they docile and easy to handle.
are not stalling or luffing. The jib, for instance, should be When running downwind in strong winds , it is safer to
sheeted to the float just aft of the forward beam. The extra run with a headsail only. It is also still possible to go to
speed generated will pull the apparent wind further windward and tack while sailing under either jib or main-
forward, allowing you to go deeper and deeper while sail alone.
maintaining a very high speed. Just keep the apparent Strong and gusty Winds: additional caution should
wind at around 90 . It can be tricky to get the right angles, be exercised in gusty winds. Always have the sheet of
but if done correctly, the results can be devastating. the largest sail up, be it the mainsail, genoa, or spinnaker,
Flying jib inside the spinnaker may also help improve in hand, ready for quick release. Use only the cam-
performance with a rotating mast in light winds, by cleats provided and never use self-tailers as cleats in
smoothing and speeding up the wind flow over the mast. high winds - they are too difficult to release fast.
Always be ready to release the sheets if you feel the
SAFE SAILING RECOMMENDATIONS boat is being pressed too hard. Instruct your crew to do
likewise. If concerned, reef until you are comfortable.
DANGER
Be fully aware that it is possible to capsize any DANGER
multihull and the following rules should always Never leave the sheets unattended if unreefed
be observed for safe sailing and the wind is exceeding 20 knots
1. Always reduce sail when required as follows: If being pressed while reaching then it is better to bear
away downwind than round up. The boat will slow down,
Wind Range Maximum Sail Configuration and the mast momentum from the turn is to windward,
to 12 knots Genoa or screacher & mainsail reducing heel. Round up and speed may increase sur-
prisingly, while mast is thrown to leeward, heeling the
12 -20 knots Jib and mainsail boat more.
The only time to round up is while hard on the wind or
20 - 25 knots Jib and mainsail with 1st reef
close reaching (do not bear away in either case). Round-
25 - 35 knots Jib and mainsail with 2nd reef ing up or luffing will feather sails until any gust passes by.
In general, your visual indication of being overpow-
35 - 45 knots Jib only, or Storm jib & main 2nd reef ered is when the leeward float is pressed far enough
45 knots + Storm jib or main only with 3rd reef down to have waves regularly wash over it. If cruising with
your family, then you should reef before this for the best
A more detailed chart for each model is on last page comfort. If sailing for speed, this is not of great concern,
The sail configurations recommended above are for providing the crew is vigilant, and this sort of sailing has
standard cruising designs and have been arrived at from been done for hours at very high speeds.
practical experience over many years of sailing Farrier It is not unusual to drive the low resistance float bows
trimarans in many differing conditions.
If necessary, all sail can be taken
down and a properly set up Storm
Parachute Anchor put out. This is
now a well proven method for a mul-
tihull to survive even the worst off-
shore storm. It appears to virtually
eliminate the danger of capsize from
both extreme wave action and hurri-
cane force winds.
Other variations of the above are
possible depending on the circum-
stances, and racing versions will need
to reef earlier. Experienced and alert
racing crews can also delay reefing
to beyond the above limits.
A quick way to reduce sail, and
achieve a very comfortable and safe
motion is to simply drop the jib and
sail under main only, reefed if con- This is definitely not safe sailing with a novice crew aboard! DO NOT do this sort
sidered necessary. This avoids the of thing with family or inexperienced crew on board. To be safe, always reef early.
frequently overlooked safety proce-
dure. It is very effective. At sea a Storm
Parachute anchor has the same effect.
Always carry full safety gear,

including life jackets, as required by
U.S. Coast Guard and local regula-
tions.
Check Weather Forecast: Al-

ways listen to the latest weather fore-
cast before you set out on any sailing
trip.
Use Large Safety Margins: Al-

ways leave a large safety margin, be it
while sailing, or just motoring around.
For safety, when sailing hard, ALWAYS keep sheet in hand ready for quick release
The above procedures will give a high
through waves, or even submerge the float in some margin of safety and should always be observed when-
circumstances. This has been found to have no adverse ever safety is paramount. If absolute performance is
effect on the boat, and in fact the boat will tend to round required, and an experienced crew is aboard, the above
up slightly, not slew to leeward as commonly and mistak- limits can be exceeded. In some earlier sea trials full sail
enly believed. has been carried in over 40 knots of wind, including the
Early Farrier designs used low buoyancy floats, and spinnaker. This is not for the inexperienced however, and
frequently completely submerged the leeward float, with any skipper doing such sailing must be prepared for and
speeds in excess of 15 knots, for quite some time, with no accept the responsibility for the extra risks involved. It
ill effect on the boat. However, this is sailing on the limit, should not be done offshore.
and don't push your luck unless prepared for a ducking.
SAILING HINTS
Farrier trimarans have several unique sailing features,
Beware of being caught side on, with little speed
one of these being the ability to make continuous 360
and with all sails sheeted in tight. This can happen after
degree turns in the one spot. To do this, while going to
a tack if concentration is lost. Any strong gust in this
windward for instance, just tack, but don’t touch any of the
situation can be turned into a 100% heel/capsize force,
sheets. You will continue to turn, jibe, and tack again
whereas if boat is moving it will
tend to accelerate to absorb the
gust rather than heel over and
get bogged down
Thunderstorms: If caught in
a severe thunderstorm, a simple
safety procedure is to drop all
sail and simply let the boat drift.
You will lie side on to the wind
which is quite safe, unless the
waves are very large, in which
case you should steer off down-
wind. Farrier designs will steer
quite well from a reach to a run
with no sails up in any winds over
5 knots - try it sometime. It is
even possible to round up into
the wind.
Anchoring in Storms:
Another safety procedure in a
severe storm is to simply drop all
sails and anchor, and this is a
All Farrier designs are well tested, and very seaworthy, but don't push your luck
indefinitely. Can be a handy tactic on starting lines. Even sails. The mast alone is sufficient to get steerage way
the F-41 catamaran can do this. downwind, and once moving you can bring her up on to
A simple way of heaving to, is to just tack as above, but a reach, even back into the wind. This can be a handy
immediately put the helm over to turn back into the wind, feature for coming into a ramp or dock at a greatly
with the jib sheeted on the windward side. This prevents reduced speed.
tacking again and the boat will instead fall off. The rudder Another feature is the ability to back up. This takes a
then takes over again and turns the boat back into the bit of practice, but by turning into the wind, and waiting
wind. You will then stabilize like this, just off the wind, until she starts going backwards, you can control this
moving forward very slightly. The helm can be lashed backing for as long as you want. Just steer the rudder
over and you now have a stable, barely moving work whichever way you want to go. Can be useful in backing
platform to do any needed repairs, stop for lunch, or just off a beach, or away from a dock - just let her go back,
wait for someone else to catch up! swing around once in clear water, and then accelerate
Should you ever loose the rudder, for whatever rea- away.
son, don’t despair. Among the repertoire of tricks is the The high potential speeds possible with rotating masts
ability to sail without the rudder. It takes a little practice to off the wind can be intimidating to new multihull sailors,
get right, and it is worth practicing sometime. Pull the and, if necessary, the potential speed can be reduced to
rudder fully up (first making sure you have plenty of a more comfortable level by reducing sail or by under
room!). Now, to go to windward, you sheet the jib or rotating the mast, which depowers the mainsail. More
genoa as per normal but let the main right out. Pull the rotation can be used as one becomes comfortable with
main on slightly and you will begin moving. Pull the main the speeds possible.
on more and you will come higher, let it out and you will Just remember, it is not compulsory to go fast. No one
go lower. Pull the main hard on and you will tack. drives their car around corners on two wheels every time
Immediately let it right out until you stabilize on a reach, they take it out, and there is no need to drive a trimaran
and then start pulling it in until you are going high again. that way either.
This takes a bit of practice to get it right, and for a time When spinnaker running before very large seas off-
you will be all over the place, but after a while you should shore, with boat speeds of 20 knots or more, there can
be able to work your way to windward, tacking too, just by be a danger of pitch poling. This can be caused by
adjusting the mainsail. pressure from the mainsail which cannot be released
You can also sail surprisingly effectively without any downwind should the bow dig in. The solution is to drop
Set up and sailed properly, a Farrier design is a very safe, yet very fast boat. This F-9AX is handling some very rough
conditions in South Australia quite comfortably, by being well reefed

When seeking the best performance, keep things in perspective - there will always be some boats that will be faster...
The world record setting 23m (75') trimaran B&Q and an early Farrier design - the 19' Tramp
the mainsail, which virtually eliminates this risk. This rule ANCHORING
only applies to racers, as cruisers should have reduced
Trimarans tend to be lively at anchor, due to their light
sail well before this even becomes a danger.
weight and shallow draft. They tend to sail from side to
The limit for racers with modern rigs will always be nose
side, which can be annoying. This can be overcome by
diving, which is hard to do with a Farrier design, due to a
using a bridle setup to each float bow, using a block on the
characteristic 'high bow' sailing stance. The F-28, for
bow to lead the bridle lines aft.
instance, at speed, frequently has the complete center
When anchoring, just lay out your anchor as per
hull bow section out of the water, the waterline beginning
normal, over the main hull bow roller. Set up the rope
just in front of the daggerboard. This comes from the wide
bridles, running through the blocks on the float bows and
flat swept up aft sections of the main hull which generate
back to the spinnaker coaming winches. Bring the 2 bridle
negative lift, actually sucking the stern down.
lines together in the center of the boat and attach to the
This characteristic can be maximized when needed
anchor line. Let the line out further until the bridles take
with high speed racing downwind, by moving the crew
over the load. You will then have a well behaved boat.
inboard and aft to the back of the cockpit. This keeps the
In some anchorages, a small drogue or even a sturdy
flat aft sections of the center hull in the water and the
bucket deployed from the stern of the main hull will help
bows very high, by increasing the negative lift at the hull
keep the boat steady.
aft sections. This works most effectively on aft cockpit
rotating mast boats, where the heeling component of the BEACHING
sails is less than the fixed mast, the drive being angled One major multihull advantage is the ability to come
more forward. right into a beach. You can either pull in far enough so that
Also important for the best performance, by minimizing the boat cannot move around (which can wear out your
wetted surface area, is to move crew weight well forward expensive bottom paint) or anchor just far enough out so
in light to moderate winds, to keep the bows down, that the boat remains floating in 2 or 3" of water.
countering the stern negative lift. RETRIEVING TO TRAILER
Boat should also be heeled to leeward (crew to lee- After sailing is finished, the jib is dropped and the
ward) when sailing to windward in light winds, just as with mainsail is roller furled or folded. Remember to lift the
a mono. Sails will then hang in a more efficient shape. boom aft end as required with topping lift for smooth
roller furling. Once fully rolled, you should then hold the
mainsail with one hand, and reverse wind the boom
with the other. This loosens the tightly rolled main,
preventing any wrinkles, and relieves any bending force
on the battens.
The floats can be folded before arriving at the ramp for
reduced beam, and this also allows the float bows to be
very useful step-off points, if needed. Use the secondary
wider folded position on larger designs (F-32 or F-9A) if
windy and there is still some distance to the ramp.
Prior to folding, with all rotating masts, the mast
raising wires must be fitted on older designs. Later
designs such as F-22 or F-32 only need raising wires to
be fitted for when mast is being raised or lowered.
WARNING
Rotating masts must be supported by raising wires
before disconnecting float stays or mast could fall
To fold older designs, relieve the tensioners, or re-

lease Highfield levers (if fitted) on older designs, and then Highfield lever being released on an older design to give
disconnect stays from the float chainplates. Mast enough slack in the float shroud for folding. Mast raising
shrouds will be retained to the float by the Highfield wires must always be fitted prior to releasing shrouds.
levers, giving just enough slack to fold, while preventing
the mast from falling should the mast raising wires be allow floats to be folded without disconnecting stays.
forgotten where required. Float stays will need to be completely disconnected
Later designs such as F-22 and F-32 (also F-24) will from the floats on older designs, and, if Highfield Levers
The advantages of a multihull with shallow draft can be easily seen. Sometimes you don't even need to anchor. Just pull up at
the nearest beach - an F-27 in Guam.
Raise the daggerboard and rudder, and cleat both in
the up position. You are now ready for the trailer.
If there is a cross wind, then a Side Guide Rail should
be fitted to the leeward side of the trailer. This prevents
the boat swinging sideways and off the trailer.
Back the trailer down into the water until the water
reaches the forward inward bend of the trailer side
members and the float supports are just visible above
water level. It should not be necessary to submerge the
trailer any further than this.
Gently guide the boat into the center and pull up as far
as it will go. Take care here, that it comes on straight, and
avoid pulling it over the center hull side supports, as this
can damage the Log paddlewheel sender unit on the
bottom of the hull (gets expensive to replace).
A side line from the windward aft cleat may also be
helpful in cross winds to prevent the stern swinging too far
Folding can be done while motoring, but be careful in high sideways.
cross winds with larger designs If motoring onto the trailer, leave the daggerboard
are not fitted, they can be secured to the mast with Velcro down until the last minute - otherwise any crosswind
straps. This stops them from flopping around. An alter- makes it very difficult to keep on center. Once fully on,
native is to loosely attach them to the float just in front of connect the trailer winch hook, and winch on the remain-
the aft beams. This keeps them from moving, yet allows ing few feet.
the float to fold up. The boat can now be pulled from the water, and when
Before folding, first check to see no one is on the side on level ground remember to check that it is fully winched
being folded, and then undo the beam bolts. The beams on. Once out of the water there always tends to be some
on the side first released may spring about 12" into the air slack in the winch wire. Tie an extra safety line from the
as the last bolt is undone. Hold the top of the beam and bow eye down to the winch post, ready for de-rigging.
lift upward to fold, TAKING CARE NOT TO LET THE
FLOAT SWING IN TOO FAST AGAINST THE CENTER DE-RIGGING
HULL which could damage the stops. You may have to Remove the bow line, separate the two lines, and use
slow it down, particularly on later designs. as the side tie-downs. Fit the aft mast support and the
trailer lights.
WARNING: Remove the jib and fold. The jib sheets can be stowed
Take great care while folded in winds of 25 knots in the anchor well ready for instant use next time. If
or more. A combination of a high cross wind and a possible, the jib can be stowed inside one of the floats -
fast tight turn may be sufficient to overcome the thus keeping it from cluttering up the main cabin.
folded stability, resulting in a rollover. Also do not If possible, relieve the tension on the battens, and
fold should any float compartment be flooded. these can be left in the loosely rolled main. Remove the
roller furling handle (if fitted) and stow in the anchor well.
Once folded insert the beam locking pin.
If the float does not fold in fully, usual cause
is the wingnet catching on the aft corner of the
cabin side rail. To correct, just push the
wingnet down under the cabin side rail.
Now fold the second side. You may find
this initially more difficult, as the boat is heeled
this way, due to the first float folded lifting that
side. Crew weight on the already folded side
will help by levelling the boat out more. Lift,
and once again don’t let the float come in too
fast once it starts moving. Insert the beam
locking pin.
If anything seems hard or difficult when
folding, STOP and see if anything is mis-
aligned, or snagged. A common error is to try
and fold without disconnecting the stays. The
beam won't budge, so remember to check
this. This is about the right position for the trailer when retrieving

the mast comes down, take care that the winch line meets
the center of the raising pole, and that the mast is central
when it reaches the aft mast support.
CAUTION: If your trailer winch does not have an
automatic brake feature, don’t let go of the winch
handle while lowering. Should this happen it will start
spinning very fast and could cause injury. Don’t try and
stop it - except by using the winch brake. DON’T try and
grab the handle - you will just have to let the mast fall -
better than a broken hand.
Once the mast is fully down, disconnect the winch
hook, reconnect to the bow eye, and retension. The jib
halyard is then reconnected to the mast.
Disconnect mast from the step, and lift it up to enable
The F-27 roller furling boom the wind indicator to be removed from the masthead.
Leave the topping lift on, to take the weight, and discon- Walk the mast forward until it can be rested on the carrier
nect boom from the mast. Lay it down on the cabin roof on the pulpit. With roller furling booms, the mast can be
to one side and fit the sail cover/bag. Disconnect the mounted on a lift up spigot (in mast furler hole) on the
topping lift, and reconnect to the mast. pulpit.
The boom/mainsail can be heavy on larger designs Secure the mast to the pulpit and aft mast support. All
and hard to handle. It can be stowed in the cabin if you rigging wires and stays should now be secured to the
wish, but this takes considerable effort, as well as consid- mast with the Velcro ties. This is to prevent them from
erable room inside. It is much more convenient to stow it rubbing on the deck which will quickly wear through any
on the cabin roof, where it is protected by its bag and is gelcoat or paint. On long trips it is also a good idea to pad
ready for instant use the next time. between the wires and the mast, or remove the wires
To lower the mast, release the jib halyard from the altogether.
rope clutch, turning block and mast base block (if neces-
sary) and cleat it to a horn cleat on the mast side.
CAUTION:
Avoid elastic type mast ties with hooks, as they can
Release the trailer winch hook, pass it over the bow roller
be dangerous. Velcro straps are much safer
and hook to the jib halyard. Tension the winch until the
forestay just becomes slack, allowing the pin to be
Rudder should be fully up, and tied to one side. Should
removed. There is no need to slacken the turnbuckle.
local regulations not permit the rudder to be left on the
Take the forestay back and secure to the mast.
transom, it should be removed and stowed in the towing
Remove all halyards etc. from the rope clutches and
vehicle. If fitted, secure the pop-top down, or it could lift
blocks as required. Wrap these around the mast to retain
up during high speed towing.
all stays and halyards neatly against the mast. It is
Connect the trailer lights (making sure they are on the
important that this is done now, as otherwise any loose
correct sides) and then check that the trailer is correctly
stays will tend to fall away over the boat when lowering
positioned under the hull. You are now ready for the road.
the mast. It also makes subsequent rigging easier.
Fit the mast raising pole/yoke assembly, and begin LIFTING OUT
lowering the mast by letting out the trailer winch line. The Should there be no ramp present, then all Farrier
raising wires must be fitted with rotating masts. As designs can be lifted in and out by the usual dockside lift,
by fitting permanent Lifting Eyes (with substantial back-
ing inside).
Slings can also be used around the complete folded
craft, the best bearing areas for the slings being the beam
areas. Other temporary lifting points are the mainsheet
traveller (outer corners), shroud chainplates on the cen-
ter hull (when fitted), or the beam bolt pads in the beam
recesses.
MARINA DOCKING
For marina docking, the side stays are released from
the floats where required and the floats folded as normal.
The marina slip can then be entered and the folded boat
moored as with any other craft. However, care must be
taken if high cross winds are a possibility, as folded
Trailer tie downs each side. Side stay tensioner can also be stability is limited. Precautions include running a line
seen stored on float deck from the mast to the dock on each side, a wider folded

Another solution for long term Marina docking is a Lift
or HydroHoist, which lifts the boat out of the water.
position, or lowering the mast in extreme conditions.

Folded stability without the mast is very good, and the
folded boat can actually self right up to even a 80 to 85
heel angle - but don't risk it.
One problem with marina docking is oil stains or
growth on the lower float sides. This is not a major
problem with short stays in a slip, but will be a nuisance
over a long period. * * * * * * * SAFETY * * * * * *
There are several ways to overcome this, one being the The modern trimaran with its enormous stability and
use of an antifouling wax on the float sides. Thus the unsinkability is a very safe craft, and has now established
gelcoat finish is preserved and only an occasional wipe an excellent safety record.
is needed. Antifouling paint could also be applied to the There have now been many record breaking runs
float sides but this is not attractive, it needing to be 2' 6" around the world, and current record is held by a trimaran
wide. at 45 days, this being an average of 26.5 knots, with the
This is not a safe angle of heel - go this far and you are probably gone! This F-27 is being pulled over to test stability.

top speeds seen being
over 40 knots.
However, safety is al-
ways dependent on the
operator and how the
craft is handled.
The major hazard to
be avoided is capsize,
and a few simple rules
make this virtually impos-
sible. Capsize is rare with
well sailed cruising multi-
hulls, but can occasion-
ally occur when racers
are being pushed to the
limit - just like race cars.
The important factor, as
with a car, is that the de-
gree of risk is up to the
driver/skipper. Drive or
sail too fast for the condi- Even when fully flooded, a Farrier design will stay afloat easily. This F-27
tions and the risk of a crash was deliberately flooded in order to demonstrate its unsinkability.
is higher. The decision is yours.
It is not taken away from you by a heavy keel below, tions. However, it should be noted that the trailerable
making it impossible to go fast. Nobody would seriously folding designs are small boats for such long offshore
suggest weighing down a car to prevent a roll over. Nor passages, and for this reason such voyages are not
should a sailboat be weighed down to limit performance, recommended with such designs as the F-25, F-27, F-
just because a few may not have the maturity to sail a fast 82, F-28, F-31 or F-9A.
type of craft safely. Only the F-32, F-33, F-36, F-39, F-41 and the new F-
Thus, like a car, a multihull has the capability of very 44 are large enough to be suitable for ocean crossing,
high speeds when desired, and the risk factor can conse- while some caution is advised with the F-32 and F-33.
quently be higher. The choice is yours however, as it is They are strong enough, but size is at the bottom limit.
not compulsory to go fast.
In general, the risk factor will only begin to increase * * * * * * * * * * * WARNING * * * * * * * * * *
when boat speed exceeds 15 knots while reaching, or
THE SAFETY OF ANY FARRIER DESIGN AT
about 8 knots to windward. When sailed for the condi-
tions, or with safety in mind, Farrier designs are the SEA CANNOT BE GUARANTEED AS OFF-
safest craft afloat. SHORE SAILING CAN BE A HAZARDOUS UN-
UNSINKABILITY DERTAKING, WITH MANY RISKS. NUMER-
This is the ultimate safety feature for any boat. All
OUS FACTORS BEYOND THE CONTROL OF
Farrier designs are unsinkable, being constructed almost
completely in wood/foam/glass, with many watertight THE DESIGNER WILL AFFECT THE SAFETY
compartments. With no heavy keel, they are therefore OF ANY OFFSHORE VOYAGE AND ANY
immune from sinking, even with all watertight compart- OWNER TAKING A FARRIER TRIMARAN OFF-
ments flooded. No matter what happens, you can be
SHORE MUST ACCEPT FULL RESPONSIBIL-
assured that your boat will always be there, and it will
never go aground in 200' of water! ITY FOR ANY RISKS INVOLVED.
There can be up to 12 watertight compartments, ********************************
depending on the builder/design, including:
It is not within the scope of this manual to go into all the
Floats: three separate compartments each.
necessary equipment for offshore sailing, this being
Fwd. berth: an important factor against collision covered by many readily available books, and/or offshore
Aft. berth: considerable reserve buoyancy safety regulations.
The four beams: up to 170lbs buoyancy each The essential items are an underwing safety gear
OFFSHORE SAILING compartment, an underwing re-entry hatch, the optional
All Farrier designs have been designed strong enough Storm jib, and a properly set up STORM PARACHUTE
for heavy weather sailing, and the F-27, F-28, F-9A/F-31 ANCHOR. The parachute anchor is a recent develop-
and the F-36 have now crossed both the Atlantic and ment for multihulls and offers a very comfortable and safe
Pacific Oceans many times, including two circumnaviga- method for surviving severe storms.
weather, reefs early, and never sails on the limit with
CAPSIZE! family or unskilled crew on board, then a capsize is
Capsize will always be a possibility with any multihull, extremely unlikely. A capsize is also less serious than a
but the chances are very remote - probably about the sinking, where the boat can disappear completely.
same as being in a car rollover. Both are easy to avoid by But the possibility of capsize is always going to be a
simply slowing down and driving to suit the conditions. factor, and should always be prepared for as follows.
One really has to be doing something very foolish to be SAFETY COMPARTMENT - When sailing offshore
involved in a capsize, and if one just keeps an eye on the the following items should be stored in an underwing
safety compartment (acces-
sible from underneath if cap-
sized), with lanyards attached,
and in watertight bags:
❒ EPIRB unit
❒ Flares
❒ Cutting tools
❒ Extra wrenches
❒ General tools
❒ Bolt Cutters
❒ Spare Beam Bolt Wrench
❒ Ropes
❒ VHF Hand Held Radio
Crew will then have easy ac-
cess to critical safety and res-
cue equipment, without having
to dive for it.
RE-ENTRY HATCH - If going
Push it too far and this is what may happen - a capsized F-82 - note how high it is offshore, or involved in serious
floating, the water level being around the bottom of the beams. Even in this position it coastal racing, then another es-
remains a relatively easy and safe boat to be on. This is about as bad as it can get on sential item is a re-entry hatch
an unsinkable multihull. The other option is this: to allow crew back inside the
boat, where shelter is available,
as well as the full array of stores. Such hatches should be
fitted just above the normal waterline, and best place is
usually under the cockpit area, or just forward on the main
cabin aft bulkhead.
INSIDE THE BOAT?
If caught inside a capsized multihull, there should be
plenty of air, the boat is not going to sink, and there is
usually no urgent need to get out. So take some time to
assess the situation, as it could actually be safer inside.
Surge is the major enemy, and the first priority should
be to seal all hatches, vents etc. as much as one can,
or even worse: secure companion way slides, and try to keep the boat
dry as possible. Main pop-top or hatch will remain in place
as this will try to float upwards. Battery switch should be
turned off and all loose objects stored in the cabin
settees, these now being above water. Surge can other-
wise remove everything.
Water level while inverted will be around the bottom of
the beams with the float decks being only just immersed.
Level will likely rise a little more if the boat has been built
and setup properly, until it will eventually stabilize, but still
leaving plenty of air space.
If possible, the battery should be removed as it will
discharge under water. It should be a sealed unit thereby
eliminating the danger of acid or gas.
If offshore, the crew outside can use the re-entry hatch

to shelter inside, or if not fitted, obtain a
cutting tool from the safety compartment
(accessible while inverted), and cut an
access hole into the hull under the cock-
pit storage lockers.
You now have a large, relatively com-
fortable life raft, and well stocked with
provisions. Much better off than in a
small liferaft with minimal provisions. In
fact the record for the longest survival
time adrift at sea is now held by the crew
of a trimaran capsized off New Zealand
in 1990. They were in such good condi-
tion when rescued that their story was
first believed to be a hoax.
The same year an offshore racing
monohull disappeared off Australia, tak-
ing 6 lives. Had they been on an unsink-
able trimaran, the crew may have sur- An F-27 being successfully righted
vived. Modern satellite position indicating systems now go under). If this fails, try towing the other direction. Some
offer quick and easy location for a floating, but disabled controlled flooding may also be required. Towing side-
multihull, whereas a sunken monohull has no such op- ways will not work - fore and aft is the easy and only way
tion. to do it.
Another righting method, that uses the folding sys-
RIGHTING
tem, has been tested and shown to be workable on a
Righting at sea, unless outside help is available, is
Farrier designed 19' Tramp in choppy conditions, and on
probably not a feasible option as yet. Probably better to
an F-27 in smooth water. The Tramp was deliberately
leave the craft as is, as crew are safe, and await rescue.
rolled over, the F-27 was a capsize.
When the opportunity arises, and outside assistance
The method has not been successfully tested at sea
is available, the most successful system for any multihull,
and thus should not be tried at sea, it being better to wait
is to tow the capsized boat fore and aft, the tow line going
for assistance, as the righting action does tend to flood
to the aft end, in the form of a bridle. Which end depends
the inverted boat more. Not a good idea if the righting
on the boat, but the general rule is to choose the end that
attempt doesn't work.
is floating highest. Thus as the boat begins to move, the
The F-27 capsize was caused by the spinnaker com-
lowest end, be it bows or stern, will begin to sink, and
bined with a mainsail sheeted tight amidships (never do
even more so as the water inside rushes to the sinking
this while under spinnaker in any circumstances). Both
end. The boat should then flip back upright, bow over
sails were being carried in winds gusting to 35 knots, with
stern or visa versa.
NO ONE holding the sheets. Crew was just owner and 10
year old daughter. Boat speed was over 20 knots and the
capsize happened while changing from a run to a reach,
t and the crew were not able to release the sheets in time.
e a c h floa
Bridle to In these conditions the sheets should always be
Tow hand held without exception. The spinnaker sheet can
If the above procedure does not work, then try flooding

the end that needs to sink, or add some crew weight The cleanup work after a capsize is considerable - So sail
(ready to abandon ship once the end concerned starts to sensibly and don't even risk a capsize - it is easy to avoid

be easily led to the windward jib sheet winch, making this
very easy to do.
After capsize both crew surfaced under the wingnets,
but found plenty of space to breathe due to the high
floating position. There appears to be little danger in
being trapped here. They were then able to get on to the
upturned boat (now a safe 19' wide raft), which was towed
ashore, and righted, with little damage, the next day.
The procedure using the folding system can be seen
on the Owners Page of the Farrier Marine website.
PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY
There have been exhaustive efforts to mini- Not so safe, this F-22 is being pressed to the limit, but it
mize the risk of personal injury, loss, or any does have an experienced racing crew on board.
other form of damage, while operating a Far-
rier designed trimaran, but obviously it is im-
possible to completely eliminate every risk.
Winches cannot be made trip proof, nonskid
can wear and cause slipping, rigging wires can
be kinked while rigging and later fatigue, life-
lines can be fallen over, frequent groundings at
speed can cause eventual daggerboard or
rudder failure, neglect of proper maintenance
can cause early failure, and lack of experience
can cause accidents in congested areas, or
bad conditions. Sailing can be hazardous at
times, and the boat operator should accept An F-39 motoring folded - plenty of stability here!
responsibility for all such hazards
Many of these risks have been covered in SAFETY IN GENERAL
this manual, but it is impossible to cover them Capsize should always be a concern, but a capsize is
all. Some recommended procedures may not simply very difficult to do, and the capsize rate for Farrier
even be the correct ones in certain situations. trimarans is much less than the serious accident rate for
The operator should therefore always be vigi- light aircraft. Luffing up slightly, or bearing away (if on a
lant against all possible safety hazards and reach) is usually all that is required. The risk of capsize
correct or warn the crew against any possible can be virtually eliminated simply by reducing sail
danger immediately. according to the conditions, and hand holding sheets.
If under spinnaker in winds of over 20 knots it should
always be a matter of policy to never leave the spinnaker
sheet unattended. It should be hand held, not even
cleated. Avoid continuous spinnaker sheets, and never
cleat the spinnaker in self-tailing winches. Cruisers
shouldn't even use the spinnaker in over 20 knots.
Fortunately it is very hard to capsize a Farrier trima-
ran, but this can lead to overconfidence. Don't fall into this
trap - always be aware that it is possible to capsize, and
reduce speed accordingly to suit the conditions.
This F-22 is doing a little surfing, something most multihulls

can do relatively safely, whereas monohulls have to be very
careful, many having been lost in such conditions

TECHNICAL NOTES RUDDER VENTILATION
This can be a problem at very high speeds, and
symptoms include a 'whoop' sound out the back, a huge
WINCH LINE rooster tail, and no steering. This normally only happens
The trailer winch line should be regularly replaced. with speeds over 15 knots and fortunately the boat
This can wear and is under a high strain when lifting the usually just keeps tracking straight.
mast. A breakage here could be dangerous, and it is The cause is air being sucked down the side of the
always advisable to stand clear of the line while lifting the rudder at high speeds, particularly if oversteering. Imme-
mast. Also, frequently check the trailer winch line when diate cure is to waggle the rudder a little, or bring it back
on a long trip. onto the centerline until the water flow reattaches, or slow
down.
SPRING RETAINING CLIPS To avoid, always keep the leading edge of your rudder
CAUTION: The spring retaining clips as can be used smooth and fair, and if it becomes a consistent problem
on the Turnbuckle clevis pins should be regularly checked then the best cure is to fix a horizontal 'fence' to the
to ensure they will still 'clip' fit on the clevis pin. Replace leading edge of the rudder about 12 to 15" up from the
if they have lost their spring and become loose, otherwise bottom.
you could lose your mast. Fence
These spring clips have been used successfully for
over 20 years and are intended as a convenient 'quick rig'
feature. They are not as secure as a properly fitted cotter
pin, and if doubts exist on their use then a cotter pin or
circular ring should be used instead, and some are
usually included in the Toolbox. However these rings/
pins will increase rigging time, and the final decision in This will prevent the air from travelling down the blade
this regard is for the owner. and retains steering control, even if the top part of the
rudder has ventilated.
LAUNCHING
If immersing the trailer to the bend in the frame will still
not let you free the boat, be careful; a few inches more
can have your boat drifting away, so have a bow line
secured.
HOISTING MAINSAIL
If you find this is tight going up or down (a not
uncommon problem with full batten boltrope mains),
there are now some spray-on silicon compounds that can
help. Remember to also check that the mainsail foot
outhaul is slackened off.
BEARING AWAY
Don't forget this is a very effective and safe way of
absorbing gusts while reaching in strong wind conditions,
particularly under spinnaker. Rounding up tends to throw
the mast to leeward (the wrong way), and can increase
speed dramatically - all very exciting. However, bearing
away throws mast to windward, speed falls off, and the
motion feels much safer. This may sound odd, but try it
sometime in lighter conditions to get confidence - it really
works.
A small fence fitted to an F-22R rudder blade
HEAVY HELM
The tiller should always be light and easy to handle, RUDDER/DAGGERBOARD HUM
with just one hand. If not, then there is something This is not an uncommon occurrence due to the
wrong. Usual cause is the rudder blade has kicked back difficulty in getting perfectly fair foils in a production
slightly. If this is not the problem then rudder may not be environment. Even carefully hand made foils can de-
raked far enough forward. This can be changed by filling velop a hum, the technical cause or reason being called
the pivot hole in the rudder blade and re-drilling slightly 'shedding' which creates the sound as water leaves the
further forward (say 1/4"). rudder trailing edge.

Any humming can be reduced or eliminated with a little fail.
fine tuning by filing or sanding the trailing edge of the foil
concerned as follows:
Compression Pad must fill this gap
Good Beam
Upper Foldin
g Strut
Hull
Better if
30° or smaller
This would not cause a serious beam problem as the
Better beams then simply move inboard to bear against the hull
again. The boat is not threatened structurally. However,
The bottom left shape is probably the easiest to repairing an U.F.S. mounting point is difficult and expen-
achieve in practice, and the least likely to be damaged. sive.
The plastic compression pads should be full width of
SHROUD OR STAY TENSIONERS the beam and bear evenly against both beam and hull to
When leaving the boat for any length of time with avoid any point loading. These pads should be checked
floats extended, the shroud/stay tensioners (if used) periodically and adjusted or replaced if necessary.
should be let off. If not, the high tension could slowly bend
the boat, due to 'creep' characteristics. This rule applies BEAM BOLTS
to all boats with adjustable backstays. These should always be in place and tightened be-
When initially setting up, stays with such tensioners fore going sailing. Otherwise the Upper Folding Struts
must be adjusted to be just long enough to reach chain- can again be overloaded as above, due to the beam inner
plate. There will then only be a small deflection when the end being forced up slightly by sailing loads.
tensioners are applied. Avoid the shrouds being too long It is also possible, but unlikely, for a Beam bolt to gall
as the resulting large deflection will put too much load on and seize in a bolt pad, which can prevent you from
the tensioners, and this could put the mast at risk. folding up the boat. If this happens, then you can still fold
up the boat by simply releasing the bolt pad nuts from
inside, or cutting off the Beam bolt head. To avoid this,
Low load on keep the threads well lubricated with a Teflon grease.
tensioner Shroud
turnbuckle
adjusted for WINGNETS
minimum
Take care not to step near the inner ends of the nets
deflection
on the sides next to beams where lashing cannot be used
in order to allow easy folding. Your foot may go through
RIGHT Too much this gap. This area can be lashed if you wish, but should
deflection,
you forget to undo when folding, the eyelets in the nets
Too much load on tighten shroud
turnbuckle will be pulled out.
tensioner - could slip
or fail causing loss of Beams have been improved on later designs such
mast as F-22, F-32 and F-33, to where their join flanges cover
this gap, making it much harder to step through.
WRONG
When sailing offshore, or for long periods, it is best and

safest to fully tension the cap shrouds with the turnbuck-
les, so there is no reliance on the tensioners.
COMPRESSION PADS
These are fitted to the ends of the beams, to eliminate
any gap or movement between the beam ends and the
pads in the hull.
Do not omit or remove these pads, as this would
cause the high compression loads in this area to be
directed through the Upper Folding Struts, which are not
designed to be strong enough for such loads. They are Wingnet gap and lashing to beam is completely covered on
designed for folding loads only, and the end mounts may this F-33, making the nets safer. But still take care.

BIMINI TOP STORAGE grades can be used , depending on the application. To
A bimini top can be very useful, due to its ability to avoid this staining, use 316 as much as possible and
shade the cockpit. For storage, it can be hung over the always wash your boat down with fresh water after every
stern and tied to the pushpit. outing. The brown stains will not appear if the salt is
washed off.
FLOAT/BEAM VENTS
The floats should be vented through spring loaded CLEANING FLOATS
vents just aft of the forward beams, or the latest method These can be extended for cleaning, if wished, while
is to use micro cowl vents high on the float transoms, and boat is on the trailer. Float supports must first be dropped
covering a small 1/16" vent hole. These vents are to down, and the boat then rocked one way. The 'high side'
prevent a build up of air pressure inside the floats on hot float can then be extended. Let the boat lean the other
days, that could be enough to open up join seams. way and the remaining float can be extended. You will
The watertight bulkheads at the forward beam and need to support the floats in some way once extended.
Shroud chainplate bulkheads should also have very
small holes near the top to allow venting throughout the CLEAN BOAT HINT
float. Should the float ever be holed then these should be If you are having problems with un-house trained
well above the flooded waterline, or at worst, only allow birds on your boat, just leave a dummy, but lifelike, snake
a very small amount of water through. in the cockpit floor. Works well.
Should the float be inverted as in a capsize, then the
airlock formed above these vents would prevent any
significant flooding. COLLISION
All beams need draining/venting, and this is best done Any boat that has had a significant fore and aft
through a hole in the bottom of the beam inside the floats, collision on the float bow, or the folded beams have hit a
draining via a tube extending down into the float when low bridge, should always be thoroughly checked. No
needed. Should water appear from these then the source boat can be made collision proof, and hidden damage
of the leak in the beams should be investigated, and can result.
repaired. The complete float should always be checked after an
In the case of capsize, these tubes are well above the impact, not just the bow area. A heavy fore and aft
float's flooded waterline, which will prevent any water collision can actually propagate throughout the float, and
entering, and consequent loss of beam buoyancy. has even generated cracks around the aft deck inspection
hatch flanges for instance. In one case, a float hull had a
RUST vertical fracture in the aft beam area from a severe bow
Many grades of stainless steel will get an occasional collision.
brown stain in saltwater, that can look like rust. The grade The beams should also be carefully checked if they
used on most marine fittings is Type 304 or 303, and both have received any significant sharp impact. Being carbon
of these will show this. Type 316, a more expensive fiber, they can be cracked or damaged from sharp
grade, but actually slightly weaker, does not. All three impacts, and areas to check are around the lower folding
Large wood pad 3 x 6 x 12"

(75 x 150 x 300) to spread
load across beam
Cushioning
material
Option 1 (best): Support under Option 2: Support under

each beam, just outboard of, each beam area on floats
and touching, beam brackets
SUPPO RT FO R MAINTENANCE
When necessary, the craft can be supported for short periods
as detailed above for anti-fouling or other maintenence work.

strut brackets, and just inboard from the float. Even if no
damage is found, continue to monitor for cracks over a
period of time.
A particular area to check for delamination on F-31s,
after a fore and aft collision, is the forward Beam Bulkhead
to hull taping around the hull brackets and down into the
hull.
This is a known collision failure point and is due to the
bow diagonal wire brace (F-31 only) directing shock
loads into the forward beam structure, and any cracks in
the Beam Bulkhead to hull area should be investigated
and repaired.
Damage here may not be visible initially, but it may
grow to eventually fail later, so continue to monitor. The
boat still holds together should this tape delaminate, but
obviously sailing should cease until it is repaired.
Such fore and aft collisions on the F-31 also tend to try very light boat, as the boat will have heeled towards the
and lift up the beam bolt pad - so also check this area in extended float, meaning the folded float will have to be
the beam recess for cracking. moved upwards when initially folding. This will improve
More details on this and other things to watch are in for most as the boat is loaded with cruising gear, but
the Beam Care Bulletin on Farrier Marine's Owners Page racers kept light will continue to see this problem
at: To make it easier, a simple 4 : 1 block and tackle, with
http://www.f-boat.com/owners/index.html a strong shock cord can be used as shown above
between beam end and pad eye in cockpit center to
HURRICANE SURVIVAL assist in extending floats by pulling beam end in and
Hurricanes frequently cause damage to many boats, down.
and on one occasion capsized a folded F-27. The owner Folding (bringing floats in) is easier and can be done
had left it on a mooring, and being worried about possible by one person. However, float will speed up and gain
damage from other boats breaking their moorings nearby momentum as it comes into main hull, and may impact
felt it best to fold her up to reduce the 'target' profile. heavily on the stops.
However this considerably reduces stability, and as To prevent this happening, rig up tackle and shock
stated earlier, this is limited while folded. As a result, no cord at the correct length to start slowing float down from
doubt while swinging sideways, the gale force winds blew about half way in. For this, shock cord (relaxed) will need
the F-27 on its side. to be about 400mm/16" long, and tackle about 800mm/
The best procedure in such a situation is to get the 32" long. Mark correct length once known.
boat out of the water, and trailer it inland away from harm
- the perfect solution and used by most owners. If there
F-41 and F-44
is not time for this, then leave the floats extended, and
pump water into each float and the main hull to weigh her
down. Also remove the wing and bow nets. These don't
have much windage, but it is surprising how much it can
be in such winds. Lowering the mast will also reduce
windage. Your boat is then as safe as anything can be in
a hurricane.
SYNTHETIC RIGGING OPTIONS

Ultra low stretch synthetic lines are now acceptable
alternatives for bow pole bobstay, or side lines, instead of
wire. Can also replace the wire diagonal braces as used
on the F-9A/F-31.
Synthetic rigging with deadeyes replacing turnbuck-
les is now also recommended for all rotating masts, and
best current choice appears to be Dynex Dux.
FOLDING ASSISTANCE The F-41 and F-44 have not received much mention
in this manual, mainly because they handle very similarly
Unfolding (extending floats) on the larger designs with
to the trimarans so everything in this manual (other than
low profile (shorter) beams such as F-32/F-33 can be
folding) also applies to both cats. There have also been
easily done by two, but one person may find it difficult.
no issues or problems of any note.
Unfolding the second side can also be much harder on a
Trailerability opens up many distant cruising grounds. Peter Hackett's F-27 at Butterfly Bay, Hook Island, Whitsundays,
Australia. Crew underwater somewhere. Such protected areas have dedicated moorings in fragile reef areas, and good
communication skills on board will be needed to pull the buoy up on deck with boathook. Secure directly or to a bridle as
described earlier.
.
Singlehanding an F-82. Sailing a good trimaran can be

very easy and safe.
Larry Woods singlehanding his F-82 - sailing a good trimaran can be very easy, and safe.

SPECIFICATIONS
The following specifications may vary depending on options, and or design changes
Approx. weight is the bare weight, with empty tanks and with all loose items removed
Load Carrying Capacity will vary depending on built weight
F-22
L.O.A.............................................. 22' 10" (6.96m) F-25C continued
B.O.A.............................................. 18' 1" (5.51m) Height on trailer ..............................9' 8" (2.95m)
Folded beam................................... 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m) Approx. Towing Weight................... 2200lb (1000kg)
Draft (board up)...............................12" (0.31m) Auxiliary Power............................... 4-8HP Outboard
Draft (board down).......................... 4' 11" (1.51m) Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 28 knots
Sail area (main & jib).......................325sqft (30.2sm)
Mast Height..................................... 31' (9.4m) F-82A
Approx. bare weight ....................... 1400lbs (640kg) L.O.A............................................... 26' 11" (8.2m)
(plus or minus 220lbs/100kg depending on model) L.W.L.............................................. 24' 6" (7.46m)
Load Capacity ................................ 1100lb (500kg) Beam.............................................. 19' 6" (5.95m)
Height on trailer............................. 8' 8" (2.64m) Folded Beam.................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 30 knots Draft Hull only ................................ 1' (0.3m)
Draft D/board down ........................ 4' 7" (1.4m)
F-22R Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................ 408sq.ft. (37.8sm)
L.O.A.............................................. 22' 10" (6.96m) Mast length......................................34' (10.36m)
B.O.A.............................................. 18' 1" (5.51m) Mast height above water................. 38' 7" (11.78m)
Folded beam................................... 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m) Approx. Weight ...............................1700lb (770kg)
(plus or minus 220lbs/100kg depending on model) Load Capacity ................................ 1400lb (636kg)
Draft (board up)...............................12" (0.31m) Height on trailer ..............................9' 10" (3.0m)
Draft (board down).......................... 4' 11" (1.51m) Approx. Towing Weight................... 2500lb (1140kg)
Sail area (main & jib).......................386sqft (35.9sm) Auxiliary Power............................... 4-8HP Outboard
Mast Height..................................... 35' 1" (10.7m) Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 33 knots
Approx. bare weight ....................... 1100lbs (500kg)
(plus or minus 220lbs/100kg depending on model) F-82R
Load Capacity ................................ 970lb (440kg) L.O.A............................................... 26' 11" (8.2m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 26 knots L.W.L.............................................. 24' 6" (7.46m)
Beam.............................................. 19' 6" (5.95m)
F-25A Folded Beam.................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' (0.3m)
L.O.A............................................... 25' 6" (7.77m)
Draft D/board down ........................ 4' 7" (1.4m)
L.W.L.............................................. 24' 6" (7.46m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................ 430sq.ft. (39.8sm)
Beam.............................................. 19' (5.8m)
Mast length......................................36' (11m)
Folded Beam.................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)
Mast height above water................. 40' 7" (12.38m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' (0.31m)
Approx. Weight ...............................1500lb (680kg)
Draft C/board down ........................ 4' 10" (1.48m)
Load Capacity ................................ 1600lb (727kg)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................ 367sq.ft. (34sm)
Height on trailer ..............................9' 10" (3.0m)
Mast length......................................32' 4" (9.85m)
Approx. Towing Weight................... 2400lb (1100kg)
Auxiliary Power............................... 4-8HP Outboard
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 31 knots
F-85SR
Auxiliary Power............................... 4-8HP Outboard L.O.A............................................... 27' 10" (8.5m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 33 knots L.W.L.............................................. 26' (7.92m)
Beam.............................................. 19' 8" (6m)
Folded Beam.................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)
F-25C (kit boat) Draft Hull only ................................ 1' (0.3m)
L.O.A............................................... 26' 6" (8.1m) Draft D/board down ........................ 6' 1" (1.88m)
L.W.L.............................................. 24' 6" (7.46m) Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................ 461sq.ft. (42.8sm)
Beam.............................................. 19' (5.8m) Std. Mast length ............................. 37' (11.3m)
Folded Beam.................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m) A 12.6m (41' 3") mast is optional
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' (0.3m) Std. Mast height above water..........41' 7" (12.68m)
Draft D/board down ........................ 4' 7" (1.4m) Approx. Weight ...............................1400lb (636kg)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................ 440sqft. ( 40.7sm) Load Capacity ................................ 1600lb (727kg)
Mast length......................................36' (11m) Height on trailer ..............................9' 10" (3.0m)
Mast height above water................. 40' 4" (12.32m) Approx. Towing Weight................... 2300lb (1050kg)
Approx. Weight ...............................1600lb (730kg) Auxiliary Power............................... 4-8HP Outboard
Load Capacity ................................ 1500lb (818kg) Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 26 knots
F-9A Height on trailer ..............................11' 2" (3.4m)
L.O.A............................................... 30' 10" (9.4m) Auxiliary Power............................... 8 -15HP Outboard
L.W.L...............................................30' (9.15m) Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 33 knots
Beam ..............................................22' 5" (6.84m)
Folded beam .................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m) F-32AX
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 4" (0.41m)
L.O.A............................................... 32' 3" (9.83m)
Draft d/board down..........................5' 6" (1.67m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................599sq.ft. (55.4sm) L.W.L...............................................31' (9.45m)
Mast length......................................40' (12.2m) Beam ..............................................23' 4" (7.1m)
Mast height above water................. 44' 10" (13.67m) Folded beam .................................. 9' 7" (2.92m)
Approx. Weight ...............................3000lb (1350kg) Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 5" (0.42m)
Load Capacity ................................ 2450lb (1114kg) Draft d/board down..........................5' 10" (1.78m)
Height on trailer ..............................11' 6" (3.5m) Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................638sq.ft (59.2sm)
Approx. Towing Weight................... 4500lb (2050kg) Mast length......................................43.3' (13.2m)
Auxiliary Power............................... 8-15HP Outboard Mast height above water................. 48' 7" (14.8m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 34 knots Approx. Weight ...............................3400lb (1550kg)
F-9AX Height on trailer ..............................11' 2" (3.4m)
L.O.A............................................... 30' 10" (9.4m) Approx. Towing Weight................... 4900lb (2230kg)
L.W.L...............................................30' (9.15m) Auxiliary Power............................... 9 -18HP
Beam ..............................................23' 1" (7.04m) Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 34 knots
Folded beam .................................. 9' 6" (2.89m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 4" (0.41m) F-32R
Draft d/board down..........................5' 6" (1.67m) L.O.A............................................... 32' 3" (9.83m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................599sq. ft. (55.4sm)
L.W.L...............................................31' (9.45m)
Mast length......................................40' (12.2m)
Beam ..............................................23' (7.0m)
Folded beam .................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 5" (0.42m)
Height on trailer ..............................11' 6" (3.5m) Draft d/board down..........................5' 10" (1.78m)
Approx. Towing Weight................... 4600lb (2090kg) Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................682sq.ft (63.3sm)
Auxiliary Power............................... 8-15HP Outboard Mast length......................................46' (14m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 35 knots Mast height above water................. 51' 2" (15.6m)
F-9R Load Capacity ................................ 3100lb (1410kg)
L.O.A........................................... 30' 10" (9.4m) Approx. Towing Weight................... 4300lb (1950kg)
L.W.L...........................................30' (9.15m) Auxiliary Power............................... 9 -18HP
Beam ..........................................22' 5" (6.84m) Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 29 knots
Folded beam .............................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m)
Draft Hull only .............................1' 4" (0.41m) F-32SR
Draft d/board down......................5' 6" (1.67m)
L.O.A............................................... 32' 11" (10.03m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .............647sq.ft. (60sq.m.)
Mast length..................................42' 6" (12.95m) L.W.L...............................................31' 10" (9.69m)
Mast height above water............. 47' 4" (14.43m) Beam ..............................................23' 3" (7.07m)
Approx. Bare Weight .................. 2750lb (1250kg) Beam (F-32SRX)........................... 23' 10" (7.27m)
Load Capacity ............................ 2700lb (1227kg) Folded beam .................................. 8' 4 1/2" (2.55m)
Height on trailer ..........................11' 6" (3.5m) Folded beam (F-32SRX)................. 9' 8" (2.95m)
Approx. Towing Weight............... 4250lb (1932kg) Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 4" (0.4m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib) 31 knots Draft d/board down..........................7' 1" (2.16m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................806sq.ft (74.85sm)
F-32A Mast length......................................50' (15.24m)
L.O.A............................................... 32' 3" (9.83m) Mast height above water................. 55' 7" (16.95m)
L.W.L...............................................31' (9.45m) Approx. Weight ...............................2600lb (1181kg)
Will depend on material - all carbon boats will be lighter
Beam .............................................. 23' (7.0m)
Folded beam .................................. 8' 2 1/2" (2.5m) Load Capacity ................................ 3000lb (1360kg)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 5" (0.42m)
Auxiliary Power............................... 9 -15HP
Mast length......................................43.3' (13.2m)
F-33 F-41
L.O.A............................................... 33' (10.06m) L.O.A............................................... 41' 8" (12.7m)
L.W.L...............................................31' 4" (9.55m) L.W.L...............................................39' 5" (12m)
Beam ..............................................23' 5" (7.14m) Beam ..............................................23' 1" (7.04m)
Folded beam .................................. 9' 6" (2.9m) Draft Hull only ................................1' 10" (0.56m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 5" (0.42m) Draft d/board down..........................7' 4" (2.24m)
Draft d/board down..........................5' 11" (1.8m) Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................916sq.ft (85sm)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................673sq.ft (62.6sm) Mast length......................................54' (16.46m)
Mast length......................................44.8' (13.62m) Mast height above water................. 61' 1" (18.62m)
Mast height above water................. 49' 11" (15.22m) Approx. Weight ...............................12,000lb (5450kg)
Approx. Weight ...............................3500lb (1590kg) Load Capacity ................................ 5000lb (2270kg)
Load Capacity ................................ 3200lb (1450kg) Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 38 knots
Approx. Towing Weight................... 5000lb (2270kg) F-44SC
Auxiliary Power............................... 9 - 20HP
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 32 knots L.O.A............................................... 43' 11" (13.38m)
L.W.L...............................................41' 3" (12.58m)
F-33R Beam ..............................................23' 1" (7.04m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 10" (0.56m)
L.O.A............................................... 33' (10.06m)
L.W.L...............................................31' 4" (9.55m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................916sq.ft (85sm)
Beam ..............................................23' 5" (7.14m)
Mast length......................................54' (16.46m)
Folded beam .................................. 9' 6" (2.9m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 5" (0.42m)
Approx. Weight ...............................12,000lb (5450kg)
Mast length......................................47.2' (14.38m)
Mast height above water................. 52' 6" (16m) SOME EARLY DESIGNS
Load Capacity ................................ 3700lb (1680kg) TRAMP/EAGLE
L.O.A............................................... 19' 6" (5.95m)
Height on trailer ..............................11' 5" (3.48m) L.W.L............................................... 18' 0" (5.5m)
Approx. Towing Weight................... 4500lb (2050kg) Beam .............................................. 14' 9" (4.5m)
Auxiliary Power............................... 9 - 20HP Folded beam .................................. 8' 0" (2.44m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 29 knots Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 0" (0.30m)
Draft d/board down.......................... 4' 0" (1.2m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................. 222sq.ft. (20.7sm)
F-36 Mast length...................................... 28' 10" (8.78m)
L.O.A............................................... 36' 10" (11.2m) Mast height above water................. 29' 6" (9.0m)
Approx. Weight ............................... 1210lb (550kg)
L.W.L...............................................35' 8" (10.88m) Height on trailer .............................. 9' (2.74m)
Beam ..............................................26' 1" (7.95m) Auxiliary Power............................... 4-6HP Outboard
Draft Hull only ................................1' 8" (0.5m) TRAILERTRI 680
Draft d/board down..........................6' 9" (2.07m) L.O.A............................................... 22' 3" (6.8m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................838sq.ft. (77.5sm) L.W.L............................................... 20' 5" (6.23m)
Mast length......................................49' (14.94m) Beam .............................................. 16' 4" (4.98m)
Folded beam .................................. 8' 0" (2.44m)
Mast height above water................. 54' 8" (16.65m) Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 5" (0.43m)
Approx. Weight ...............................6500lb (2740kg) Draft d/board down.......................... 4' 3" (1.3m)
Load Capacity ................................ 3000lb (1360kg) Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................. 239sq.ft. (22.2sqm)
Auxiliary Power............................... 20-30 HP Inboard Mast length...................................... 26' 3" (8.0m)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 37 knots Approx. Weight ............................... 1500lb (700kg)
Height on trailer .............................. 10' 6" (3.2m)
F-39 Auxiliary Power............................... 4-6HP Outboard
L.O.A............................................... 39' 4" (12m) TRAILERTRI 720
L.W.L...............................................37' (11.28m) L.O.A............................................... 23 7" (7.2m)
Beam ..............................................27' 3" (8.33m) L.W.L............................................... 21' 8" (6.6m)
Beam .............................................. 16' 4" (4.98m)
Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 10" (0.56m) Folded beam .................................. 8' 0" (2.44m)
Draft d/board down..........................6' 11" (2.11m) Draft Hull only ................................ 1' 5" (0.43m)
Sail Area (Main and Jib) .................890sq.ft. (82.4sm) Draft d/board down.......................... 4' 3" (1.3m)
Mast length......................................51' 7" (15.76m) Sail Area (Main and Jib) ................. 277sq.ft (25.7sqm)
Mast length..................................... 30' 6" (9.32m)
Mast height above water................. 57' 9" (17.6m) Mast height above water................. 34' 10" (10.62m)
Approx. Weight ...............................7000lb (3180kg) Approx. Weight ............................... 1650lb (750kg)
Load Capacity ................................ 3500lb (1590kg) Load Capacity ................................ 1000lb (450kg)
Height on trailer .............................. 10' 6" (3.2m)
Auxiliary Power............................... 20-30 HP Inboard Approx. Towing Weight................... 2550lb (1160kg)
Approx. wind capsize force (main & jib): 37 knots Auxiliary Power............................... 4-6HP Outboard

0 1m 2m
0 3' 6'
F-22R spreaders
Mast support will be here Mast in trailering
Aft Mast must be braced position
Support fore and aft as
shown
Bow pole is
removed for
trailering
Rudder blade is
removed for
trailering
Trailer tie down
loop- tie to eye on
float deck Overall Height on Trailer is
approx. 2.6 - 2.67m
(8' 7" - 8' 9") depending on
trailer and wheel size
Trailer lights - Check with local regulations

for correct light configuration. Tail lights are
best on separate removable brackets
mounted on Transom, with cable run
independently over boat. Avoid trailer
mounted lights - salt water soon renders
them inoperative. Regulations may also
F-22 Trailer Setup
require lights to be at or near the aft end of
the trailer/boat. Scale 1 : 50
Copyright © 2012 by Farrier Marine Page 39 FARRIER MARINE
Winches: It may be possible to avoid
0 1000 2000
any winches on the F-22 by using 2 : 1
Jib sheeting. Alternatively, just one
winch will be able to do all tasks, but
two winches are optional if wished. 0 3' 6'
Halyards: these are cleated on the

mast, but can be temporarily led back
to the cockpit, when needed for
tensioning, via a simple 'wrap around'
turning block

Optional pad eye
for general use, if Deck eye for bow pole side
required braces, with two 6mm (1/4")
fasteners tapped into internal
plate (Sheet 7).
Opt. bow net support

Mainsheet traveler (synthetic line).
for boomless main
Removable Wing Nets

compression

strut (optional)
4 - 8hp
outboard
and Optional Bow
bracket Nets go here
Optional pulpit
Optional sheet Winch
Opt. Bow Pole
Pop-top can slide

Optional
forward and lift up Anchor
centerboard well
control lines
will exit here
Camcleat
Opt. Mast rotation Forestay access opening for

control tackle eye forestay and furler. Furling
lines can run aft along hull
Mainsheet traveler for side and under beams to
Optional foredeck hatch
optional boom (compression cockpit.
400 x 500mm (16 x 20")
strut not required) or similar.
Optional screacher or spinnaker

(F-22R) will sheet to eyes on aft
beam, sheets being led to a
cabin top winch
Shroud carbon
Chainplate
U-bolt for trailer tie
down. Can be a fold
down pad eye if
trailering beam has to
be under 2.5m Optional deck hatch -
Screw in hatch behind
Float vent to vent any beam is omitted if this
pressure buildup from heat hatch is fitted.
inside floats, which can
cause problems. Can be in Optional barber hauler
different area. eyes along wingnet
support web for both
main and jib
F-22 Deck Layout

Orig. plan built boat shown

Copyright © 2012 by Farrier Marine
Run line to sheet winch via block
Mast Raising
attached to lashing around bow
The max. tension in raising line is approx. 275kg/600lbs Pole
(under bow tube), or use trailer
winch line if on trailer
Jib or spinnaker Halyard
Tie off to actual mast at bottom NOT to anything on deck!!
4–6mm pole to mast line,
quick connector on mast
NOTE: When first raising mast, block off any holes end
4–6mm pole side lines
Offset roller as shown at mast base, with a sticky tape, to trap and
from Anchor loops to
capture any metal debris that may be inside mast.
stabilize pole sideways.
Otherwise this could fall into daggerboard case
Quick connector on
and jam daggerboard
bottom end.
Pole is removed, but Yoke
can stay on mast foot when
trailering Mast foot ready to stow on
Side lines attach pulpit or fit to step (just slides
to pivot hole or to onto pivot pin in step).
forward side of Halyard tails taken up and
loop
tied around mast
Page 41
Anchor loop
Aft Mast
Support

Mast raising wires each side to Check clearance here. Approx.
stabilize mast sideways. Wires See also details of correct mast
100/4" gap at gooseneck area
detailed on Sheet 83 of F-32 base and yoke setup in F-32
with a 230/9" wide wing mast
plans. Do not use line. Fabricated Parts Book (Page 29)
FARRIER MARINE
Leave mast raising wires slightly loose when first
raising, to avoid unexpected tightening and possible
damage. Adjust once full travel has been observed.
F-32 MAST RAISING
F-82A (cruising version) has a 600mm (2') shorter mast
Main luff 10220 (33' 6") Jib Luff 8500 (27' 11") Sail Luff Leach Foot Material Area
& Leach 10420 (34' 2") Jib Leach 7550 (24' 9")
Area 25.4 sq.m. (274sq.ft.) Jib foot 3000 (9' 10") Mainsail 10820 11000 3300 Technora 26.9sq.m.
Area 12.4sq.m. (134 sq.ft.) 35' 6" 36' 1" 10' 10" 291sq.ft.
Blade Jib 8760 7770 3050 Technora 12.9sq.m.
Notes: 28' 9" 25' 6" 10' 0" 139sq.ft.
Sailcloth weight to suit wind in area
sailed. Class emblem to be located and
Screacher 9967 8385 6820 Mylar 29.7sq.m.
sized as shown.
(Wire /Kevlar luff) 32' 8" 27' 6" 22' 4" 321sq.ft.
MAINSAIL Asymmetric 11890 10360 7925 Nylon 64.2sq.m.
No limitation of the number or length of Spinnaker 39' 34' 26' 694sq. ft.
battens. Two sets of Reef Points, position
optional. Windows are optional. Material Screacher is a wire/kevlar luff furling
is optional. multipurpose sail, that can be used to
Main Head Width (MHW) 810 (2' 8") windward in light airs (replacing genoa) and
3/4 Girth Lgth (M34G) 2135 (7') for reaching or running in light to heavy
1/2 Girth Length (M12G) 2895 (9' 6") winds. Luff must be tight for windward use,
JIB while tacking is easily accomplished by
No limitation of number or length of furling during tack
battens. Windows are optional. Rotating Mast can generate
Material is optional.
82R
considerable reaching power that can
Foresail hanks to be bronze and initially be overwhelming for novice multihull
for 6mm (1/4") wire sailors. This can be avoided by reefing or
Luff Perp. (JLP) 2740 (9' 0") simply fixing the mast fore and aft,
SCREACHER effectively depowering until one becomes
4mm/5/32" wire or accustomed to the speeds possible.
6mm/1/4" Kevlar luff Boomless Main Reefing Mainsheet
Only one foot batten allowed. always stays attached to clew. Reefing line
Sail must be able to roller furl or lines are led through reefing eyes on
with the foot batten. Batten to leach returning down to rope clutch(s)
be no longer than 45". bolted on side of clew board. Luff is reefed
Material is not restricted. with usual systems.
Luff Perp. (SRLP) 5700 (18' 8")
Foot Roach Max.
(SRFR) 460 (1' 6")
SPINNAKER
Material must be of nylon
Mid Girth Lgth.
(SMG) 6218 (20' 5")
More detailed and the very latest sail plans can be

™ ™
F-82R and F-82R Sail Plan downloaded from:
http://www.farriermarine.com/sails.html
F-82A and F-82R are Trademarks of Ian Farrier

Sail Luff Leach Foot Area Additional Info
12640 12930 4210 37.9sq.m.
Mainsail
41.46 42.42' 13.81' 408sq.ft
Mast height from waterline
F-32 - 14.8m/48' 7" 11235 9860 4250 21.3sq.m Max. foot round 155mm (6")
Masthead spinnaker or Jib
F-32R - 15.6m/51' 2" (Carbon Code 0 optional on F-32R 36.86' 32.35' 13.94 230sq.ft
mast only) (Code 0 may need extra 12580 11120 7690 43.88sq.m Max. foot round 310mm (12")
Screacher
side stays)
41.27' 36.5' 25.23' 473sq.ft
14305 12355 9410 89sq.m
Asym. Spinn.
1090/3.58' 46.93' 40.53 30.9 960sq.ft
Mast lengths
F-32R 7410 5820 3685 10.6sq.m
F-32 - 13.2m/43.3' Storm Jib
F-32R - 14.0m/46' 24.32' 19.1' 12.1 114sq.ft
(carbon) 956/3.14' 13440 13680 4210 42sq.m
R Main
F-32 44.09' 44.88' 13.81' 452sq.ft.
15905 13955 9560 111sq .m
R Asym.
(masthead) 52.18' 45.78' 31.4' 1198sq.ft
1655
5.4' max
1250
4.1' max
32
12930
42.42'
13.4m (43.96')
bow pin -
sheave pin
Recommend
ed reef points
(dashed lines Forestay is 12.18m
are for (39' 11") pin to pin.
F-32R) Reduce by 45mm/1
3/4" with Marstrom
masts to allow for top
shackle in their system
Aft Cockpit
Sheeting
FARRIER F-32
F-32 SAIL PLAN

Sail Luff Leach Foot Area Additional Info
Mast Height From Water 13000 13350 4340 40.03sq.m. MGT (7/8) 1660 (5.44')
Mainsail MGU (3/4) 2520 (8.27')
F-33 - 15.22m (49' 11") 42.65 43.8' 14.24' 432sq.ft MGM (1/2) 3385 (11.1')
F-33R - 15.98m (52' 5") Carbon mast 11265 9830 4370 22.33sq.m LP 3965 (13')
Jib MGM 2470 (8.1')
and F-33R 36.96' 32.25' 14.35 240sq.ft Max. foot round 180 (7")
spinnaker exit
12770 11220 7900 44.12sq.m LP 6910 (22.67')
Screacher MGM 3320 (10.89')
41.9' 36.81' 25.92' 475sq.ft Max. foot round 360 (14")
1125/3.7'
14405 12455 9660 90.83sq.m
F-33R & F-33ST Asym. Spinn. MGM 7730
47.26' 40.86 31.69 978sq.ft (25.36')
975/3.2' 7580 5900 3800 11.24sq.m LP 2965 (9.73')

Storm Jib Roller furling/reefing jib
F-33 24.86' 19.36' 12.47 121sq.ft may be sufficient alone
13760 14080 4340 44.1sq.m MGT (7/8) 1810 (5.94')
R Main MGU (3/4) 2720 (8.92')
45.14' 46.2' 14.24' 476sq.ft. MGM (1/2) 3545 (11.63')
15120 13210 9660 94.9sq.m
R Asym. MGM 7730
(higher 49.6' 43.34' 31.69 1025sq.ft

exit) (25.36')
33
13350
43.8'
6600
(7300)
Recommended
reef points (figures 13570
in brackets & (44.52')
dashed lines are pin - mast
for F-33R) sheave
Forestay is 12.22m
(40' 1") pin to pin.
Reduce by 45mm/1 3/4"
2300
with Marstrom masts to
(2800)
allow for top shackle
used in their system
FARRIER F-33
F-33 SAIL PLAN
FARRIER MARINE Page 45 Copyright © 2012 by Farrier Marine

Square Top
1100/43"
NOTES: Sail Luff Leach Foot Wgt. Area
Main is
Sailcloth wgt. may be varied to suit material, and optional Mainsail 13740 14370 5080 400gm 51.5sq. m.
average wind strength in area sailed. Mylar may be 45' 1" 47' 2" 16' 8" 9.5oz 555sq.ft.
used for all sails.
All sails are to be fitted with telltales.
Jib 13230 11810 4420 400gm 26.6sq.m.
43' 5" 38' 9" 14' 6" 9.5oz 286sq.ft.
Batten Car/track system is recommended for
mainsail luff. Screecher 14450 12160 9630 270gm 61.7sq.m.
Mainsail battens to be angled as shown for easy 47' 5" 39' 11" 31' 7" 6.5oz 664sq.ft.
roller furling if fitted (requires bolt rope).
Asymmetric 15160 12950 10660 50gm N 136sq.m.
Mainsail to have 3 sets of reefpoints. 49' 9" 42' 6" 35' 1.25oz N 1460sq. ft.
Max. Mainsail roach is 1760 (69") located Spinnaker
7mm 9/32" Vert. Hoist JC 70gm/1.5oz (opt. for
60 to 65% up leach. 13400/44'
Wire luff 6600/21' 8" Cruising boats)
Mainsail to have Cunningham eye fitted.
Class emblem to be located and sized as shown. Storm Jib 8330 7260 3120 450gm 11.3sq.m.
Jib to have 4 leach battens placed at equal distance 27' 4" 23' 10" 10' 3" 11oz 122sq.ft.
on leach, unless roller furling. ®
Screecher is roller furling wire luff genoa set from
bow pole (Screecher eliminates
traditional genoa and awkward sail 36 Max. foot round: Jib 150mm (6"),
changes. It is also used to windward Screecher 600mm (24")
in light airs). Jib luff may need shortening to suit
furler if used.
1750 A self-tacking jib is optional with
(69") centerboard version, specifications
max. being identical to jib except: Leach
Roach
11951 (39' 3"), Foot 3652 (12'), Area
23.2sq.m. (250sq.ft.). Can have positive
roach of up to 300mm (12") with 4 leach
battens.
If used, storm jib will require 1000mm
(40") tack pennant. May also be roller
furling wire luff (7mm 9/32" wire) set
from chainplate in foredeck.
Roller furling
Storm Jib option
Roller Furler
F-36™ Sail Plan

F-36 is a Trademark of Ian Farrier

Mast height from waterline Sail Luff Leach Foot Area Notes
1320/4.33'
F-39 : 17.6m/57.7' 14960 15330 5040 54.2sq.m. Max. roach 850/32" 60%
Mainsail up leach.
F-39R : 18.5m/60.7' F-39R 49.1' 50.3' 16.54' 584sq.ft

13060 11500 4820 28.2sq.m Max. foot round
1150/3.77' Jib 200mm (8")
42.85' 37.72' 15.8' 305sq.ft
F-39
14700 12800 9210 61sq.m Max. foot round
Screacher
42' 30.22' 657sq.ft 410mm (16")
48.22'

16700 14450 11200 121.8sq.m
Asym. Spinn.
54.8' 47.41' 36.76' 1315sq.ft

8710 6950 4245 14.55sq.m Roller furling/reefing jib
Storm Jib may be sufficient alone
28.58 22.8' 13.93' 157sq.ft

15850 16160 5040 59.3sq.m Max. roach 1010/40"
® F-31R
F-39RMain
Main
52' 53.02' 16.53' 639sq.ft. 60% up leach.
39
NOTES:
Sailcloth weight
To suit material used, and average wind
strength in area sailed.
Mainsail
To have 3 sets of reefpoints and Cunningham
eye fitted. Batten Car/track system
recommended for mainsail luff. Class emblem
located and sized as shown.
Jib
850 To have 4 leach battens placed at equal
2.8' distance on leach, unless roller furling. If used,
max. hanks are to suit headstay size.
roach
Screacher
Has a min. 6mm/1/4" wire or 10mm/3/8" Kevlar
luff and is a furling multipurpose sail set from
bow pole. Can be used to windward in light airs
(up to 7 knots instead of genoa) and for
reaching or running in light to heavy winds. Luff
must be tight (2 : 1 halyard recommended) for
15330 windward use. Tacking is accomplished by
50.3' furling during tack.
F-39 SAIL PLAN

Mast height from waterline 1427/56" Sail Luff Leach Foot Area Notes
is 18.62m/61' 1"
15190 15545 5330 60sq.m. Max. roach 940/37" 60%
Mainsail up leach.
49' 10" 51' 17' 6" 646sq.ft

12825 11610 4090 25sq.m Max. foot round
Jib 250mm (10")
42' 1" 38' 1" 13' 5" 270sq.ft

15285 12945 10160 64.9sq.m Max. foot round
Screacher
42' 6" 33' 4" 700sq.ft 380mm (15")
50' 2"

17295 14865 11690 148.2sq.m
Asym. Spinn.
56' 9" 48' 9" 38' 4" 1595sq.ft

® Optional Sails (may
not be required depending
on
boat setup and use)

8560 7440 3405 12.7sq.m Roller furling/reefing jib
Storm Jib may be sufficient alone
41
28' 1" 24' 5" 11' 2" 136sq.ft
12825 10970 5870 33.5sq.m For serious racing. Max.
Genoa
36' 19' 3" 361sq.ft. foot round 435mm (17")
42' 1"
NOTES:
Sailcloth weight to suit material used, and
average wind strength in area sailed.
Mainsail to have 3 sets of reefpoints and
940 Cunningham eye fitted. Batten Car/track system
37" recommended for mainsail luff. Class emblem
max. located and sized as shown.
'
5/51
roach Jib to have 4 leach battens placed at equal

1554
distance on leach, unless roller furling. If used,

hanks are to be for 14mm (9/16") wire
Telltales to be fitted to all sails.
Screacher has a min. 6mm/1/4" wire or
10mm/3/8" Kevlar luff and is a furling multi-
purpose sail set from bow pole. Can be used to
windward in light airs (up to 7 knots instead of
genoa) and for reaching or running in light to
heavy winds. Luff must be tight (2 : 1 halyard
recommended) for windward use. Tacking is
accomplished by furling during tack.
F-41 SAIL PLAN

MAINTENANCE & SAFETY mast when sails are up, and where rope clutches
CHECKLIST engage. A sleeve over rope tail at clutch area can
For continued safe and enjoyable operation, it is prolong life and give better clutch holding power
essential that regular maintenance be carried out. Trima-
rans are actually more like aircraft in many aspects, and ❒ Spinnaker halyard should have any worn area
it is important to conduct regular maintenance and safety at the top cut out and the halyard retied or spliced
checks to locate any potential problems before they to the snap shackle.
become serious.
The following Maintenance Safety Checklist has STANDING RIGGING
thus been developed and it is strongly recommended
that a full check be undertaken every 6 months.
In general, after every sail, the complete boat and
❒ All stays should be checked for broken
trailer should always be thoroughly washed down with strands or corrosion, particularly at end swages. If
fresh water. This is very important to keep that new look, any stays are badly kinked, replacement should be
and to prevent rust taking hold on the trailer. Particularly considered.
wash out the brakes and suspension area of the trailer. Stainless steel is prone to fatigue, and in a trailer boat
Regularly check the bilges of the center hull and the floats it is not uncommon to get kinks in the stays while rigging
for any water. or de-rigging. This fatigues the wire, and it is recom-
Sails should always be rolled up or folded (the same
mended that all stays be replaced after 3 to 5 years.
way as you receive them) - dried first if wet.
If possible, keep your boat under cover, as this will
ensure the finish keeps its gloss for the life of the boat. ❒ Check all turnbuckles for corrosion, and that
Even the best gelcoat finish will eventually begin to fade. locking rings or pins are in place, and work
correctly.
MAST
❒ Synthetic stays should be closely checked for
❒ Masthead sheaves should turn freely, and any broken strands or wear areas.
clevis or pivot pins should not be worn or show Synthetics are still relatively new and replacement is
signs of distortion. thus recommended after 3 - 5 years.
❒ Spinnaker halyard and Jib halyard sheaves ❒ Check all deadeyes and lashings are still in
should turn freely, and clevis or pivot pins should good condition
not be worn or show signs of distortion.
HULLS
❒ Forestay tab/nose should be checked for any
cracks or signs of distortion ❒ Check bow U-bolt and spinnaker eye for any
movement.
❒ All other stay attachments to mast should be
checked for distortion or corrosion. ❒ Check all chainplates for any signs of
movement
❒ Mast step should be checked for any
distortion or cracks ❒ Check wing nets, particularly eyelets for
wear.
❒ Mast step sheaves should turn freely, and Wingnets should be replaced every three or four
clevis or pivot pins should not be worn or show years. Taped edges are usually the first to fail, and
signs of distortion. sometimes just redoing these will extend the net life. If
replacing nets, avoid any close weave fabrics as these
❒ Boom gooseneck pins should be checked for can trap wind underneath, creating unwanted lift. Bow
any signs of wear or distortion nets, in particular, should always be a very open weave.
RUNNING RIGGING ❒ Check rudder case for any sign of stress

cracks, or corrosion, particularly at lower end.
❒ All halyards should be checked for broken Rudder blade should swing up and down easily in
strands or wear, particularly where they enter the case, but without any slop.
❒ Check rudder blade or shaft around bottom FOLDING SYSTEM
edge of rudder case for any stress cracks. Replace
if necessary ❒ Check all pivot pins for corrosion, and that
circlips, cotter pins, or nuts are properly fitted.
❒ Check leading and trailing edges of rudder
blade for any delamination or splitting. ❒ Check hull and beam brackets for any
looseness or cracking.
❒ Check rudder control lines for wear, and
replace pull down line if fitted every year IMPORTANT: DO NOT try to remove, tighten
or loosen lower folding strut beam bracket bolts.
❒ Check daggerboard around bottom edge of These are epoxy glued into the beam and are not
hull for any stress cracks removable.
❒ Check leading and trailing edges of ❒ Check all folding struts have plastic bushes at
daggerboard for any delamination pivot points, and that there are no major cracks in
welds (these welds are not structurally important,
❒ Check control lines for wear and replace if and small cracks are not significant - these
necessary resulting from flex during folding)
❒ Check traveller welds for any cracking ❒ Check locking pins (for when floats are
retracted) and brackets for excessive wear. Rubber
❒ Check Hull area around Lower Folding Strut stop should be replaced if worn excessively.
brackets for any signs of damage/cracking
❒ Check that floats do not bear directly on to
❒ Check all deck fittings for any cracks or wear. the main hull. There should be a bumper on the
hull side, or a minimum 1/8" gap.
BEAMS
TRAILER
❒ Check all beam join flanges for any signs of
delamination or cracking. ❒ Check Trailer winch line for wear
SERIOUS WARNING CAUTION

When raising the mast by using the winch there
Any delamination or cracking in beam flanges or
is considerable tension on the jib halyard and
glue joins should be regarded as serious and
winch line. Be doubly careful when checking
must be repaired without delay. Otherwise a
these for wear as failure of either one could result
small crack can grow until it can cause failure.
in severe injury.
❒ Check top surface of beams for movement or ❒ Check all trailer supports bear evenly against
‘softness’ under foot, or if ‘oil canning’ or hulls
rippling of the top beam surface can be observed
while sailing. Must be inspected and repaired ❒ Trailer should be regularly cleaned and oiled
immediately as this could be a serious fault. ❒ Check wheel bearings for wear
❒ Check operation of brakes.
❒ Check that plastic compression pads remain
on inner ends of beams and that they bear against Any defects or problems found during this check
deck/hull when floats are extended. Also check should be remedied immediately.
around this area for any signs of damage or
cracking, on both deck/hull and beam. This Checklist is intended as a guide only and
may not cover every potential problem. Owner
❒ Lightly grease beam bolt threads with a teflon should always check every aspect of boat on a
grease regular basis.
Fire Precautions
1. The craft when in service shall be fitted with a fire extinguisher of 10A/68B
capacity (or as required by local regulations)
located ________________________
and ________________________
2. It is the responsibility of the owner to:

-have the fire fighting equipment checked at specified intervals,
-replace the equipment should it be damaged or discharged with a
device of equal or greater capacity,
-inform crew members of the location and operation of the extinguisher
and location of escape hatches.
-ensure the equipment is readily accessible when the craft is occupied.
CAUTION
Never:
-obstruct passageways to exits and hatches;
-obstruct portable fire equipment;
-leave the craft unattended when cooking appliances are in use;
-use gas lights in the craft;
-modify any of the craft systems without professional advice;
-fill any fuel tank when machinery is running or when the cooking
appliance is in use;
-refuel outboard motor portable tank on board the craft;
-smoke when handling fuel

DETAILED WIND CAPSIZE FIGURES AND
SAFE SAILING RECOMMENDATIONS
The wind capsize figures given in table below are the many years of sailing trials and testing in all conditions.
theoretical wind speeds required to lift the center hull in the While every care has been taken, this table should only be
worst possible condition, which is side on with sails sheeted regarded as a general guide, and it always remains the
in tight - something that should never be allowed to happen. skipper's responsibility to ensure the boat is sailed safely and
These figures are based on calculation combined with sail is reduced appropriately for the conditions.
Model Sail Combination Wind Capsize Recommended Wind
Speed in Knots Range For Safe Sailing
Main & Jib 30 12 to 20 knots

F-22 Main #1 reef & Jib 34 20 to 25 knots
Main #2 reef & Jib 37 25 to 32 knots
Main only #2 reef 45 32 to 38 knots
Jib only 58 38 to-45 knots

F-22R Main #1 reef & Jib 29 15 to 20 knots
Jib only 52 32 to 45 knots Safe Sailing Procedures:
Main & Jib 33 12 to 21 knots In event of a severe gust: FREE SHEETS
Main #2 reef & Jib 43 28 to 36 knots OR:
If wind is closehauled: LUFF UP
If wind is abeam: FREE SHEETS
If wind is abaft the beam: BEAR AWAY
F-32A Main #1 reef & Jib 37 22 to 28 knots If wind is astern: USE HEADSAILS ONLY
Main #2 reef & Jib 48 28 to 37 knots & FREE SHEETS


Main #2 reef & S.jib 61 42 to 48 knots
Main & Jib 37 (33*) 12 to 24 knots

* R version Main #2 reef & S.jib 52 36 to 42 knots
The above figures apply to consistent winds, and wind If running directly downwind, the above safe wind speed
capsize speed will vary depending on many factors, including ranges still apply. However, mainsail should be reefed early,
sea conditions, area being sailed, boat load condition, how or dropped altogether should winds exceed 30 knots and use
load or crew are distributed, wind direction and wind a headsail only instead. Headsails can be easily released in
characteristics. The recommended safe wind speed range strong gusts from astern. A mainsail cannot.
should be thus modified or varied when required as follows:
If boat is lightly loaded, the wind capsize figures will be lower,
If winds are inconsistent, strong and gusty, reduce the and extra care may be required. However a light boat also
recommended safe wind speed ranges by 20%. accelerates more easily, which helps absorb gusts easier.
If offshore, or in isolated areas, then reduce the recommended
Main plus Screacher capsize wind speeds ranges are
safe wind speed ranges by 20%.
around 10% lower than the main plus jib figures. However,
If crew is inexperienced then reduce the recommended safe the lighter cloth usually used on these light weather
wind speed ranges by 20%. headsails will restrict their use to low wind speed ranges

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Sailing Manual For All

Includes F-22, F-82, F-85SR, F-32, F-32SR, F-36, F-39,

If this is your first sailboat or multihull, for your own comfort or

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECURE

If required, a replacement copy of this Manual can be

Owner 1. __________________________ Owner 2. _________________________ Owner 3. ________________________

This Sailing Manual is the copyrighted property of Farrier Marine,

FARRIER MARINE Page 1 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 2 FARRIER MARINE

and batteries, life buoy, flares, a chart of the area to be

FARRIER MARINE Page 3 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 4 FARRIER MARINE

FARRIER MARINE Page 5 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

Two should be able to completely rig an F-22 or F-32

6. The mast foot is now connected to the mast step as

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 6 FARRIER MARINE

10. Now check the following:

FARRIER MARINE Page 7 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

Larger masts can be heavy, with high loads, and extra

12. Connect forestay once the mast is fully up. At initial

tighten slightly on the way up.

Check that the socket in the rotating mast foot aligns

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 8 FARRIER MARINE

14. The topping lift is now discon-

15. Tighten all the battens in the

FARRIER MARINE Page 9 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

The float will unfold, but be careful it doesn’t pick up

F-33 being unfolded at dock. Folding is harder on larger

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 10 FARRIER MARINE

F-27 shroud tensioner - these are used to take up the slack

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 12 FARRIER MARINE

Cunningham Eye line

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 14 FARRIER MARINE

CLOSE HAULED WITH MAST AT 40°

Avoid allowing the mast to rotate or swing back and

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 16 FARRIER MARINE

FARRIER MARINE Page 17 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

CAUTION: Avoid using continuous spinnaker

For better pointing ability, a closer sheeting angle

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 18 FARRIER MARINE

Always carry full safety gear,

Check Weather Forecast: Al-

Use Large Safety Margins: Al-

FARRIER MARINE Page 21 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

To fold older designs, relieve the tensioners, or re-

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 24 FARRIER MARINE

FARRIER MARINE Page 25 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

position, or lowering the mast in extreme conditions.

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 26 FARRIER MARINE

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 28 FARRIER MARINE

If the above procedure does not work, then try flooding

FARRIER MARINE Page 29 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

This F-22 is doing a little surfing, something most multihulls

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 30 FARRIER MARINE

FARRIER MARINE Page 31 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

When sailing offshore, or for long periods, it is best and

Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 32 FARRIER MARINE

Large wood pad 3 x 6 x 12"

Option 1 (best): Support under Option 2: Support under

FARRIER MARINE Page 33 Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine

Owner 1. ______________ Owner 2. _ Owner 3. ____________