Sourdough Breads and Related Products: W.P. Hammes and M.G. Gänzle

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8 Sourdough breads and related products

w.p. HAMMES AND M.G. GÄNZLE

8.1 Introduction

Grinding of cereals and addition of water results in the formation of a


dough which, after some time, will turn into a sourdough characterized
by acid taste, aroma and increased volume due to gas formation. This
fermentation event may have been one of the first microbial processes
employed by man and led to the use of sourdough for breadmaking.
Baking of leavened bread can be traced back to Egypt in 1500 BC, and
the study of the microbiology of sourdough has a history of nearly 100
years. Not all sourdoughs are subjected to baking. More fluid soured
doughs are consumed in various parts of the world. Boza in Turkey and
Mageu in Africa are examples of a group of raw foods that had once also
a tradition in Europe. For example, in Scotland these were known as
sawens or flummeries (Fenton, 1974). There are even smooth borderlines
to beer-like beverages. These are considered as products of alcoholic
fermentation performed by yeasts and require the digestion of the starch
by amylases. Without specific technological precautions, however, it will
always be, as in sourdough, a lactic acid bacteria (LAB)-yeast association
that primarily develops in the cereal-derived substrates. An example is
provided by 'Berliner Weiße' beer, which is characterized by a deliberate
LAB-yeast fermentation and by the strong acid taste of the beer.
The key role of LAB and yeasts in sourdough was recognized by the
pioneers in the study of sourdough microbiology such as Holliger (1902),
Beccard (1921) and Knudsen (1924). As sourdough is an intermediate
but not an end-product, the microbial activities in the dough have to be
judged on the basis of their impact on the quality of the baked goods that
are produced with its aid. These are characterized by their flavour,
nutritional value and texture, i.e. the size and distribution of pores and the
elasticity of the crumb. To some extent these characteristics can be
achieved without the involvement of LAB by application of yeast and/or
chemicals, but the traditional process and various new modifications rely
on the metabolic activities of LAB in the sourdough. By one definition
(Anon., 1994) sourdough is described as 'a dough whose microorganisms
(e.g. LAB and yeasts) originate from sourdough or a sourdough starter
and are metabolically active or can be reactivated. Upon addition of flour
and water they continue to produce acid'.
200 MICROBIOLOGY OF FERMENTED FOODS

An overwhelming multitude of baked goods are produced with the aid


of sourdough. These include above all breads from wheat, rye and
mixtures thereof as well as the well-known Italian products such as
Panettone, Colomba, Pandoro and different types of brioches. Another
sourdough application was described for production of soda crackers
(Sugihara, 1985). Taking into account that the major part of rye bread
and a substantial share of that made from wheat (30% in Italy; Ottogalli
et al., 1996) is made from sourdough, an impressive role of this
fermentation product becomes evident.

8.2 Microbial ecology of sourdough

Factors influencing microbial growth and activity in sourdough are


shown in Figure 8.1 (Hammes et al., 1997). The effective endogenous
parameters are determined by the cereal substrate which contains the
carbohydrates, nitrogen (N)-sources, vitamins and minerals. The
fermentable carbohydrates

Product quality:
flavour, texture, shelf life, nutritional value
Figure 8.1 Factors affecting growth and metabolic activity of the sourdough microflora
and the quality of sourdough bread. (Modified according to Hammes & Vogel,
1997.)

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