RES PUB Fraud Report
RES PUB Fraud Report
RES PUB Fraud Report
The Pursuit of
Food Authenticity:
recommended legal & policy strategies
to eradicate Economically Motivated
Adulteration (food fraud)
Michael T. Roberts
Whitney Turk
Acknowledgements
This White Paper was researched and written by Michael T. Roberts and Whitney Turk and produced by the Resnick Program
for Food Law and Policy at the University of California, Los Angeles School of Law. Tiana Carriedo assisted with cite-checking
sources, Emilie Aguirre provided editing suggestions, and Rudi Vanzin provided editing, design, and formatting assistance.
Additionally, the following scientists, consumer advocates, food industry leaders, and legal practitioners experienced on
issues related to economically motivated adulteration, reviewed and advised on portions of the contents of this white paper:
This White Paper was made possible due to a generous gift by the Cortopassi Family Foundation.
The recommendations in this White Paper do not necessarily represent the views of these the reviewers, the contributors,
or the University of California, Los Angeles School of Law.
5. Conclusion 29
preface
This White Paper recognizes that the current political reality likely translates into less, not more federal government
regulation of food. Hence, it should be noted that this paper does not advocate new administrative regulations or
rules.
This paper simply recommends that the FDA enforce the existing statutory mandate against food fraud for the benefit
of American consumers in a smart, efficient manner by setting enforcement priorities and by collaborating with science
experts and the food industry.
This paper further recommends that the food industry eradicate food fraud by embracing the norm of authenticity and
establishing self-governance rules as it has done so with sustainability.
Last, this White Paper proposes specific rules changes in litigation against food fraud that courts could take to enhance
the use of the tool of litigation in combating food fraud.
list of Abbreviations
CSR Corporate Social Responsibility
EMA Economically Motivated Adulteration
FDA Food and Drug Administration
FDCA Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act
FMIA Federal Meat Inspection Act
FSMA Food Safety Modernization Act
GMA Grocers Manufacturing Association
International Multidimensional
IMAS Authenticity Specification
National Advertising Division of the
NAD Council of Better Business Bureau
PPIA Poultry Products Inspection Act
PFDA Pure Food and Drug Act
United States Department of
USDA Agriculture
USP US Phamacopeial Convention
1. introduction to EMA, examining the challenges of detecting EMA,
and accounting for the harms of EMA. Part II surveys the
legal tools currently used by the government to combat
EMA, commenting on their strengths and weaknesses.
Food fraud is both an old and modern problem. A major Part III sets forth five specific legal and policy strategies to
form of food fraud—referred to in modern terminology combat EMA. The first strategy is to put consumers first
as Economically Motivated Adulteration (EMA)—includes and to adhere to the statutory mandate to enforce against
the padding, diluting, and substituting of food product for EMA as fraud, rather than a lower tier of adulteration
the purpose of economic gain that may or may not affect that is only of interest to government agencies if there
the safety of the product. EMA harms consumers, honest is a food safety crisis. The second strategy is to define
merchants, and undermines the credibility of regulatory EMA more completely in order to guide the government
agencies that have jurisdiction over the quality and safety agencies and the food industry and to frame expectations
of food. for compliance. The third strategy is to create a high
priority category for the most problematic EMA foods
This form of cheating targeted wines, spices, meat, and that would subject these foods to standards making and
bread, as early as in the Roman Empire. Legal responses testing without overburdening government capacity. The
to EMA-type fraud have historically been suited to the fourth strategy is for the food industry to self-regulate
sensibilities for the time. During the reign of Edward the food authenticity through corporate social responsibility
Confessor in the eleventh century, for example, brewers of
poor quality beer in the city of Chester were condemned
to stand in the tumbril or dung-cart.1 In early fourteenth-
century London, the baker who sold underweight bread Although the definition of
would have the offending loaf slung around his neck and
be drawn through the dirtiest streets in town on a mobile “authenticity” is multifaceted,
pillory to be jeered at and targeted by flying debris hurled especially as applied to food, this paper
from fellow citizens.2
takes a practical approach and regards
In the modern food system, trade flows of varieties of food “authentic food” as food that is what it
products and ingredients from multiple locations around purports to be, and as food that is not
the world increase the level of EMA. This dynamic poses
unique challenges to good governance. Enforcement subject to fraud, including economically
against modern EMA calls for legal solutions beyond motivated adulturation.
the dung-cart or mobile pillory, practical solutions that
recognize the sophistication and systemic nature of the
cheating and protect consumers. These practical solutions
should include effective legal and policy tools and inspire
new ways of thinking about food fraud.
Motivated the FDA regulates everything else, which gives the FDA
jurisdiction over most food products. The complete web
adulteration of responsibilities across government agencies is much
more complex, but the bulk of responsibility for defining
and enforcing laws against EMA rests primarily with the
Defining Economically Motived FDA and secondarily with the USDA.3
Adulteration (EMA)
The FDA’s Development of a Definition of EMA
Defining Agencies
No less complicated than the organizing of the
defining agencies is the actual defining of EMA
Defining EMA is the responsibility of the governing
and all of its component parts. Prior to 2009, the
agencies with jurisdiction over food. Determining which
FDA had not defined EMA. It took a food scandal
government agency has jurisdiction over a particular food
in 2007-08 involving Melamine being added to pet
is often no easy task. Government regulation of food in
food and infant formula in China to prompt the FDA
the US is a patchwork of federal, state, and local laws. In
to define EMA, albeit that this definition is sparse.
response to food safety, integrity, and quality concerns,
Congress has passed major legislation to govern food,
Melamine is a widely used chemical found in hard
including acts referenced in this White Paper: the 1906
plastic dishes and linings of food containers. In 2007,
Pure Food and Drug Act (PFDA); the 1907 Federal Meat
Melamine was added to pet food that was imported
Inspection Act (FMIA); the 1938 Federal Food, Drug, and
into the US in order to boost the pet food’s protein
Cosmetic Act (FDCA); and the 1957 Poultry Products
content, resulting in the recall of 150 brands of pet
Inspection Act (PPIA).
food and in animal deaths in the US.4 In 2008, it
was discovered that Melamine had been added to
Under these and subsequent federal food acts, Congress
Source: https://nyti.ms/2jSS9Ge “Chinese officials on Monday issued a higher estimate for the
number of children affected by tainted dairy products, saying that
as many as six babies might have died and nearly 300,000
were sickened after consuming contaminated milk powder.”
Distinguishing EMA from Other Forms of Researchers contend that the foods most often subject
Adulteration and Food Fraud to EMA are fish and seafood, milk and dairy products, oils
and fats (especially olive oil), meats, alcoholic beverages,
EMA is distinguishable also from other forms of intentional fruit juices, grains, honey and other sweeteners, spices
The most egregious early example of food fraud in the US reportedly involved milk and the
deaths of infants. In 19th-century New York, rapid industrialization meant the elimination
of pastureland inside the city, but many Americans still relied on milk as a staple food for
children and infants, especially as breastfeeding fell out of favor. Dairy farmers raised cows
outside the city and shipped milk in by rail. Others raised cows inside New York City in filthy
pens attached to distilleries, and the cows ate alcoholic mash—a byproduct of distilling.
“Swill milk,” as it would become known, was modified with plaster, magnesia, flour, starch,
and molasses to give it the color and consistency of real milk. Real milk shipped in from
neighboring counties was commonly diluted with water and given similar treatment. The
practice continued for decades, and it remains hard to estimate how many children died from
milk poisoning and contagion (milk pasteurization did not become common practice until the
mid-1890s), but an 1858 article in the New York Times estimated 8,000 children died every
year from drinking swill milk.
New York passed laws against milk adulteration and banned distillery dairies, but enforce-
ment was rare and ineffective.
Wilson, B. (2008). Swindled: The Dark History of Food Fraud, From Poisoned Candy to Counterfeit Coffee , 154-63.
Challenges in Detection and Testing Testing a food product’s authenticity, rather than focusing
on a specific adulterant, can also be difficult to manage
Detection because the composition of food products often varies
by location, growing conditions, production methods,
EMA can be very sophisticated and difficult to detect. In and other variables.77 Devising a test to account for these
1985, a massive international wine fraud was only discovered variables requires sophisticated authentication standards,
because a tax inspector noticed large deductions taken by such as one developed for pomegranate juice as delineated
an Austrian winery for diethylene glycol, a sweet-tasting in a publication entitled International Multidimensional
industrial solvent that serves no purpose in winemaking.72 Authenticity Specification (IMAS) Algorithm for Detection
Normally, one would not inspect wine for diethylene of Commercial Pomegranate Juice Adulteration.78 The
Seafood is probably the largest category of foods subject to EMA. Numerous studies have found rampant species
substitution—where a lower-value fish is labeled as a higher-value fish—in restaurants, grocery stores, and fish markets.36
Seafood is also subject to over-glazing: increasing the weight (and therefore price) by artificially increasing water and
ice.37 These problems are extremely common in the US and worldwide.38
Olive oil is the world’s most adulterated oil.39 “Extra virgin” is the highest and most expensive grade of olive oil; it also has
the most health benefits and best flavor.40 In order to qualify as extra virgin, the oil must be separated from the fruit using
only mechanical means (generally a crusher and centrifuge), have an olive fruit flavor, and be free of defects.41 Extra virgin
olive oil is most often diluted with lower-grade or refined olive oil, though it is sometimes diluted with seed oils.42 Any
addition of lower-grade oil renders the whole product lower-grade. Extra virgin olive oil is expensive to produce, but
lower quality oils can be produced inexpensively in amounts that fill tanker ships.43 The price premium for extra virgin
olive oil is therefore extremely attractive for fraud, especially when consumers do not know that extra virgin olive oil
should have a powerful bouquet of flavor. Olive oil is not the only oil subject to EMA: higher-value fats of every kind are
typically diluted with lower-value fats.44
Milk adulteration has a long history in the US45 but is now aggressively controlled.46 However, milk and dairy adulteration
is common in China, where dairy production is relatively new and domestic supply cannot meet increased demand.
Infant formula is subject to EMA at such a high rate in China that it has created a grey market in illegally imported formula.47
Cheeses are subject to adulteration worldwide, mostly by substituting lower-value cheeses for higher-value ones.48
The most common EMA of alcoholic beverages is undoubtedly water dilution and under-pouring in bars and restaurants.
Many wine frauds involve the substitution of less valuable grapes or grapes from the wrong region.51 Some wine frauds
involve diluting more valuable wines with less valuable wines or wines of different types.52 Among the most dangerous
forms of EMA typically happens in combination with liquor counterfeiting: the perpetrators use methanol to increase
alcohol content.53 Methanol is a toxic (poisonous) alcohol and is less expensive than ethanol, the alcohol we drink.
Fruit juices are particularly susceptible to EMA because their major adulterants, water and sweeteners, are present in the
authentic products in large quantities. Other adulterants include pulpwash solids, unapproved preservatives, and less
valuable juices; labeling reconstituted juices as fresh-squeezed is also EMA. The US General Accounting Office, in a report
in 1995, estimated the rate of orange juice adulteration in the US could be up to 20%, but they also said that addressing
that EMA was probably too costly.54
Grains are subject to additions like adding urea to flour or melamine to wheat gluten to fool lab tests for protein content.55
Higher value grains like Basmati rice may be diluted with lower value grains.56 Grains, like many other products, may also
be deliberately mislabeled as organic when they are conventionally grown; the Italians uncovered an organic labelling
conspiracy in 2011 that included various grains.57
Honey, like olive oil, is at the forefront of the worldwide food fraud fight. Because of rampant dilution with high fructose
corn syrup and other cheap sweeteners, some countries, including the US, created tariffs on honey from China to prevent
“dumping” low-cost honey on the market.58 The European Union (EU) and Canada banned imports of Chinese honey
for ten years after the discovery of chloramphenicol, a dangerous and highly controlled antibiotic, in imported honey
in 2002.59 As a result of tariffs and bans, much of the honey coming out of China is now ultra-filtered to remove all trace
minerals and pollen that would allow scientists to identify the origins of honey samples.60 Chinese honey is commonly
shipped to other countries and repackaged before exporting to the US and elsewhere in order to avoid tariffs and bans;
many countries export more honey than they produce.61 The US does grow its own honey adulterations: in the late
1990s, two brothers were convicted for selling honey and maple syrup diluted with corn syrup at farmers markets for
more than twenty years.62
Spices and extracts are common targets of EMA, often at the production level (by contrast, fishers rarely see the profits
from species substitutions or advanced over-glazing methods).63 This is because spices are typically sold in powdered
form and sourced from small producers in parts of the world with little oversight or accountability.64 The production of
“extracts” often leaves spent spice behind to be dyed and sold as if it were full strength; highly toxic industrial dyes often
conceal the inferiority of spent or poor spices.65 Non-spice bulking agents like ground peanut shells may also be used
to dilute spice.66
Fresh produce is has been subject to organic labeling fraud.67 This type of fraud is a substitution: conventionally grown
produce is substituted for organically grown produce, and the culprit gains the value of the organic price premium. In
the US, the USDA oversees the National Organic Program (NOP) and certification of organic food production. Because of
the way the NOP works, organic labelling fraud in the US is most often a result of fraudulent documentation, especially as
there are no tests to tell whether a product is organically grown.68
Coffee and tea have EMA histories as long and complex as wine.69 Tea adulteration is ubiquitous in India.70 Tea and coffee
are both subject to the addition of organic bulking agents. In tea, that usually means spent leaves, stems and stalks, and
non-tea plant matter; in coffee, it means corn, barley, rye, caramel, and bean husks.71 In the US, these adulterations are
most easily avoided by buying whole-bean coffee and loose tea, though false origin and organic claims can remain.
For foods that have DNA, DNA testing can be used to It bolstered its response by releasing the
help pinpoint the identity of the product.81 This is most
results of its own study, commissioned in the
wake of the CBC report. . . .[characterizing]
useful for species substitutions in meat and fish and is
the CBC report as misleading and demanded
actively being used by some grocery retailers to ensure
a retraction. . .
the authenticity of the foods they sell.82 It is important
to note, however, that DNA testing is expensive (often But the Canadian news company did not
prohibitively so) and cannot be used in foods that have no budge, either. It cited. . . a University of
DNA in them as a result of processing.83 Also, as evidenced Guelph biologist, who said that although
by the recent dispute over the authenticity of Subway’s DNA ‘cannot be taken as exact mass ratios in
chicken, even when DNA testing can be used, the results the product,’ the genetic material could serve
are not always conclusive. as a proxy for amounts of soy in the meat.”
The harms caused by EMA are far-reaching. These harms • Safety Incidents
include economic harms to consumers and honest food
companies, potentially devastating food safety risks, As previously noted, while EMA under Section 402(b) is
and systemic harms that undermine confidence in the distinctive from food safety adulteration under Section
governance of the food system. 402(a), in some cases EMA leads to serious food safety
concerns. As observed by former FDA Commissioner
Economic Harms David A. Kessler: “[i]n most cases of adulteration, it turns
out to be just economic and nobody gets hurt—but there
• Consumers
Early Regulation
The passage of the FDCA in 1938 was in part intended to By far the largest category of food standards belongs
remedy the perceived problem of imitation food as well as to milk and milk products—a reasonable choice given
EMA in general. The principal approach under the FDCA both the centuries-long battle for safe, authentic milk
Source: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/350726/elliot-review-final-report-july2014.pdf
to in difficult times. But the serious end of food and this means giving food safety and food crime
fraud is organised crime, and the profits can prevention—i.e. the deterrence of dishonest behaviour—
be substantial. The recommendations in this absolute priority over other objectives.”
report will not stop food crime, but are intended
to make it much more difficult for criminals to Putting the consumer first will require that the FDA change
operate in the UK.140 its way of thinking about EMA. Too often the FDA does not
view EMA in terms of the ultimate victim, both in economic
Treating EMA as fraud would motivate the FDA and USD and public health terms, which is the consumer. It is
to prioritize the enforcement of EMA and to recognize tempting for the FDA to view EMA solely as an economic
its short-term and long-term consequences. These cheat against an honest purveyor of food goods. In reality,
agencies should also follow the lead of the EU and the effect is much more pervasive. Putting the consumer
develop a cooperative approach with other domestic first means that the FDA should define EMA with the
and international law enforcement agencies and states in consumer in mind, enforce vigorously against cheats in
aggressive enforcement campaigns. the food system, and communicate its efforts clearly and
openly to consumers through the Internet, public service
• Put the Consumer First announcements, and social media.
To facilitate the treatment of EMA as fraud, the FDA should Informing consumers of EMA will likely engage positive
embrace the concept advanced by the UK Elliott Review of market responses favoring authenticity. For the market
putting the consumer first. Sparked by the horsemeat food to respond, however, consumers have to want authentic
fraud scandal in the UK, the report is a systems approach food and be deliberate and vocal in their demands for
based on eight pillars of integrity. Although the pillars authenticity. For consumers to demand authentic food,
are interconnected, the one pillar that stands out for its they need to know about food fraud in the first place and
novelty when applied as a norm to the food fraud problem what factors lead to the likelihood of adulterants in foods.
is “Consumers First.” The preface to this pillar in the Elliott The growing food movement, evidenced by consumer
Review states: “Industry, Government and enforcement interest in nutrition, local foods, and sustainability,
agencies should, as a precautionary principle, always put makes it highly probably that consumers are interested in
the needs of consumers above all other considerations, authentic food.
Defining EMA more expressly and completely would • Model high priority list after FSMA
enable the FDA and the food industry to recognize more
readily EMA, thereby allowing a more proactive approach The development of a high priority list of EMA products
in abating this fraud. A complete definition should capture could be modeled after the FDA’s approach to high risk in
the full range of adulteration components listed in the food safety. Under FSMA, FDA identifies high-risk facilities
FDCA and distinguish between these components.141 It and allocates resources to inspect registered facilities
would be most helpful for the FDA to provide real and according to their risk profile, based on a number of food
contemporary examples of what would constitute EMA, as safety factors, including the known safety risks of the food
this White Paper has attempted to do. manufactured, processed, packed, or held at the facility.142
FDA also inspects imported foods according to their risk
• Send a messaage profile, based on known safety risks of the imported food
and of the countries or regions of origin and transport of
Providing a complete definition of EMA would also send the imported food.
a clear message to the food industry that the agency is
serious about its statutory charge over all forms of EMA, • Collaboration is key
not just EMA that raises food safety concerns. Food
companies would evaluate more accurately their supply Developing a high priority list for EMA products could
lines to ensure that their products do not violate sections be accomplished by collaborating with credible sources,
401 and 402(b). such as the USP food fraud database and the Oceana
report on seafood fraud. The FDA could also confer with
• Harmonization the USDA for possible inclusion of meat products on
the list. The EMA high priority list could be refined over
Given that EMA is a global menace and threat in the time through the collection of data by various means. A
modern, global food system, a well-developed definition shared focus between the government, the food industry,
would help establish a regulatory bar that other countries and scientific organizations in obtaining data will lead
could emulate and would facilitate global harmonization. to a better understanding as to the scope of the EMA
problem and provide a clearer path forward to solutions.
Within appropriate legal bounds, the government could
provide a safe haven for food companies to self-report
• No private right of action under FDCA In recent years, there has been an explosion of class
action litigation over food labeling. For example, both
The FDCA does not include a private right of action to sue “natural” claims and inventive ingredients like “evaporated
the FDA for enforcement of the FDCA, including its EMA- cane juice” (otherwise known by its more conventional
related provisions. The omission of this tool in the FDCA name, “sugar”) are being litigated in many states.150 As a
contrasts with its inclusion in the major environmental result of this litigation, some food manufacturers have
statutes enacted between 1970 and 1980, allowing private changed their packaging, labeling, or ingredients. The
citizens and other interested stakeholders to bring suit cost of the litigation forces the company, to a degree,
against alleged violators of the statutes. These citizen-suit to internalize the cost of their practices: the individual
provisions introduce accountability into the regulation, consumers may only get a few dollars, but the settlement
as citizens or companies are able to take on the role of still costs the companies, which is a disincentive for further
law enforcement by suing polluters and the government. deceptions. That disincentive, along with the threat to
Notwithstanding the application of private rights of the food product’s brand, has a market effect: other
action in federal environmental statutes, there is not any companies might not want to get sued for the same kinds
momentum to implement this tool in the FDCA.147 of misbehavior.
5. Conclusion
The purpose of this White Paper has been to identify
and explain the problem of food fraud in the form of
economically motivated adulteration and its relationship
to the modern food system and to recommend legal and
policy changes to address the problem. EMA has been
treated as a second-tier adulteration that is viewed as a
problem only if the fraud compromises the safety of the
product. EMA has commanded attention as an economic
crime when a particular food company’s economic
interests are damaged due to the adulteration. It is rare,
however, for EMA to be enforced against or prosecuted
for the general welfare of ordinary consumers.