QMS - F.02 Fabric Inspection Training Module

QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
Document No. Version No.

F-02 FABRIC INSPECTION TRAINING MODULE
PGS-08032021 6
PREPARED BY: APPROVED BY: APPROVED DATE:
Page 1 of 22
ARNOLD A. DE JESUS HOWARD WILLIAMS 18 MARCH 2021
1- Fabric Buying Page 02

2- How to Use the 4 Point System to Assess Fabric Page 05
3- Fabric Inspection Procedure Page 08
4- Summary of Inspection Procedure Page 18
5- 4 Point Inspection Standard Page 20
• Blank Fabric Inspection Record

• Example of Completed Fabric Inspection Record
• Fabric Inspection Analysis Record
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Fabric Buying – Guidelines

Before confirming an order with any fabric supplier / mill, the garment manufacturer should
discuss the following requirements:
• Fabric Performance (Physical & Color Fastness Performance)
• Fabric Specification
• Average & Maximum Points allowed for Visual Defects (Point System)
• Number of 1 Point Faults Allowed
• Bow & Skew Tolerance
• Packing Method of Shipment
• Roll Ticket Information
• Number of Cuts Allowed per Roll
• Optimum Roll Length
1- Fabric Performance
The physical & color fastness performance standards agreed at the development testing
stage will be discussed at the time of placing the fabric order. This is extremely important as
the supplier / mill must clearly understand the fabric performance required by their
customer.
2- Fabric Specification
When confirming to buy a particular fabric, the materials it is made from, method of
manufacture including the dyeing and finishing processes should be confirmed. These
details will include:
• Mill name
• Fiber Composition
• Yarn Counts
• Construction
• Fabric Width
• Weave Type
• Knit Type
• Dyeing Method, etc.
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This information will be recorded on the Fabric Specification Sheet (please refer to
Appendix) and attached to the fabric buying order.
3- Average & Maximum Points
The average and maximum points allowed for visual defects should be specified and agreed
/ confirmed before finalizing the order with the fabric supplier. The inspection system used
must be objective in nature and acceptable to both the garment manufacturer and the fabric
supplier. The most widely used inspection systems are the 4-point and 10-point systems,
with the 4-point system being the most common and is recommended by PUMA.
Please note that the average points denote the overall quality level of a delivered batch and
the maximum point level denote the boundary between “Grade A and Grade B fabric”.
4- Number of 1 Point Faults Allowed
The buyer / garment factory will confirm with the fabric supplier / mill the number of 1-point
faults allowed within 100 square meters. Normally, the standard of number of 1-point faults
allowed is the 50% of maximum agreed points per 100% square yards or meters. This helps
limit the number of rejected garment panels, due to small fabric defects.
5- Bow and Skew Tolerance
Woven and knitted fabrics can suffer from bowing and skewing if not carefully controlled
during finishing. Problems of this kind can result in distorted garment panels, which
significantly affect the fit and appearance of the garment. So, when buying fabric, it is
important to specify the Bow & Skew tolerance that you expect the fabric mill to follow.
6- Packing Method for Shipment
The buyer / garment factory will confirm with the fabric supplier / mill, how the fabric is to be
packed and the delivery address of the garment factory. White & light-colored fabric using
black BHT free polybags to avoid yellowing issue due to light exposure during storage.
7- Roll Ticket Information
The following information should be recorded on the individual fabric roll tickets. This is
crucial to help the garment manufacturer control the sequence of cutting and to minimize
color shading issues.
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Example of these information are as follows:

➢ Fabric description
➢ Order number
➢ Roll length
➢ Fabric Width
➢ Number of cuts
➢ Dye lot / Print Number
➢ Fabric Composition
➢ Visual Defects Points
➢ Production Date and Roll Number (refer to photo in Page 12 for reference)
If the fabric supplier does not list these details on their roll tickets, then the garment
manufacturer should consider providing his own roll tickets for the mill to use, which have
space for all the information required.
8- Number of Cuts Allowed per Roll
The garment manufacturer should specify the number of cuts per roll allowed. This is to
avoid possible shading problems and wastage due to lengths of fabric that fall short of the
lay marker length.
9- Optimum Roll Length
Due to garment production conditions, i.e. length of markers, the width of cutting table, the
fabric roll length and width will need to be considered when buying fabric. This is to ensure
that the fabric consumption is as efficient as possible in order to achieve production cost
targets. It is normally calculated by dividing marker length into the roll length.
For example:
If the marker length is 4.5 meters then the optimum roll length should be 76.5 meters, i.e.
ideally 17 layers from each roll, or longer (in multiples of 4.5 meters)
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How to Use the 4-Point System to Assess Fabric
It is very common for fabrics to be inspected under the direction of the 4-point system. The
4-point system derives its name from the basic grading rule that a maximum of four penalty
points can be given for any single defect and that no linear yard can be awarded more than
4-points regardless of the number of defects within that same yard.
4-Point System
Defects in both the wrap and weft directions are assigned points based on their size using
the following criteria:
Imperial System: Metric System:
Fault less than 3” in length : 1 point Fault less than 7.5 cm in length : 1 point
Fault up to 3” to 6” in length : 2 points Fault up to 7.5 to 15 cm in length : 2 points
Fault over 6” to 9” in length : 3 points Fault over 15 cm to 23 cm in length : 3 points
Fault over 9” in length : 4 points Fault over 23 cm in length : 4 points
• The maximum number of points for any linear yard (36” x fabric width) cannot be more than
4 points (please refer to the 4” yard in Fig. A for reference. Although there is a 10” fault and
a 2” hole which would attract 8 points in total, the maximum penalty can only be 4 points).
• Faults in both warp and weft directions receive equal points.
• All holes except needle holes at selvedge area should be awarded points as follows:
Hole size less than or equal to 1” = 2 points

Hole size more than 1” = 4 points
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Summary of the fabric faults appear from 1st to 4th yard above:
Yardage Inspection Size of Fabric Faults Point Rating
1st yard 3” + 36” 4 points (max. penalty)
2nd yard 2” 1 point
3rd yard 6” 2 points
4th yard 10” + 2” hole 4 points (max. penalty)
Total: 4 yards Total: 11 points
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How to calculate average points per roll:
1- Individual Roll Points

• All inspection results are based on a square yard computation.
• The following formula is used to determine the point count of each roll:
Imperial System:
e.g.
Metric System:
If the unit is 100 sq. meter, then the formula should be:
2- Average Points per Inspection Lot
The total point count per inspection lot is calculated by:
a) Totaling the number of yards checked.

b) Totaling the number of points counted per linear yard.
Then converting the above total points counted to 100 square yards.
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Imperial System:
Metric System:
If the unit is 100 sq. meter, then the formula should be:
Fabric Inspection Procedure
List of tools / equipment that needs to be available before conducting an inspection.
• Inspection machine with overhead & transmitted lighting - for fabric inspection.
• A pair of scissors – to cut the fabric swatches
• Measurement tape – to measure the fabric width & size of defects
• Adhesive stickers – to indicate the location of the fabric defects
• Calculator – to calculate the average & maximum points
• Extra / Re-use polybags – to re bag the fabric roll after inspection
• Fabric inspection report – to record the inspection result
• Approved Color Standard – as a reference for checking bulk fabric color & hand feel
• Pens – to record the penalty points
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Fabric Inspection Machine Adhesive Stickers
Tools / Equipment for Inspection

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Example on How to Inspect Fabric Using 4-Point System:

1) Calculate the number of yards and rolls that need to be inspected (approx.15%).
Randomly select the rolls from the bulk lots. All the colors and batches per color
should be represented.
2) Switch on the inspection machine, the overhead and transmitted light must also be
switch on during the fabric inspection.
3) Place the fabric roll on the inspection machine.

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Fabric in front of the transmitted lighting
4) Preparation of Inspection Report.

All the following fabrics details must be filled in on the inspection report before inspection.
Any special finishing, e.g. two side brushing or anything concerning quality that needs QC to
assess can be mentioned clearly in this area.
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Fabric roll tickets with details information
Record the fabric details before Inspection

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5) Beginning of each roll, a full 6” width cutting should be taken as a color reference
and checked for side to center and side to side shading.
6” full width is cut & check for side to side
shading
6) Measure the cuttable width and record down on the report.
Cuttable Width Measurement

PGS-08032021 6
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7) Adjust the suitable speed of the machine during fabric inspection.
Speed setting Button
The fabric speed during inspection should not exceed 8 meters per minute. This is because
the human eye cannot detect defects effectively at higher speeds.
8) Assess the fabric faults on each yard / meter using the following guide.
9) Record down in the “comment” section the main type of defects found.
Defect marked with an arrow

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10) Measure size of the fabric defects (inch / cm) and give grading by penalty points.
11) Each roll inspected, should be stopped at least 3 times during inspection (beginning,
middle and end). At these stops, side to center and side to side shading must be
assessed.
Color Shade Checking
12) Record the inspection results:

Color name / number. Some customers may use their own color reference therefore the
mill must clearly record the color reference number on the roll ticket or label.
PGS-08032021 6
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13) Follow above procedures to inspect every roll selected and make records.
14) Calculate the average and maximum points then compare against agreed points
level.
➢ If the result is less than or equal to standard, then tick the “Accept” box
➢ If the result is worse than the standard, then tick the “Reject” box
15) The report should be signed by Fabric QC and double checked by their supervisor
and confirmed by his / her signature.
16) After the inspection, the fabric rolls should be bagged again in order to avoid soilage
and the roll ticket is re-attached before returning fabric rolls to the storage.
Re-bagged fabric rolls after inspection

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Fabric rolls are placed back on the shelves or

palettes
17) All the 6” fabric cuttings (from beginning of the rolls) should be group together and
assessed for shade from dye batch to dye batch under the required light sources.
Light Box Shade Band

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Summary of Inspection Procedure
1. Select 10 – 15 % of fabric rolls from bulk (across all colors & batches of the same
color for inspection).
2. At the beginning of each roll, a 6” full width cutting should be taken as a color
reference and checked for side to center and side to side shading. This is done by
folding the cutting from side to center & side to side. For fabrics with reversible side /
coating / lamination, the inspector should check both sides for side to side shading.
3. Measure the width of the fabric between the stenter pins (needle holes at selvedge)
and compare against the given minimum usable width (cuttable width).
4. Each roll checked, should be stopped at least 3 times during inspection (beginning,
middle and end). At these stops, assess side to center and side to side shading and
usable width, this is done by placing the 6” full width cutting across the fabric. If the
fabric is a stretch fabric, then check the usable width by tape measure.
5. The cutable width should be recorded on the inspection report togther with any color
shading detected.
6. The inspector should check the fabric length stated on the roll ticket against the
actual length of roll measured by the machine for variance. Both values should be
recorded on the inspection report.
7. During inspection, the fabric must be checked for defects and award points
according to the 4-point system.
8. All defect points must be recorded on the inspection report.
9. All the 6” full width cuttings should be checked for color & side to side shading using
a light box under D65 (6500 K) as Primary Light source and TL 84 (4100 K made
by Phillips) as Secondary Light source.
10. All the inspection reports should be kept for at least 3 seasons.
11. After inspecting each rolls, calculate the total points per roll and the total points per
100 square yards / meters. Compare the total points per 100 square yards / meters
against the agreed maximum point level and reject any rolls that exceed the
maximum point level.
12. On completing inspection for a delivery / batch, calculate the overall average points
per 100 square yards / meters and record the findings.
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Inspection Reports:
These can be used –
• To understand the fabric quality before cutting
• To provide a profile of each quality, fabric supplier’s performance season by season.
• For quality analysis after every season
o To discuss the improvement required with the fabric suppliers
o To review if it is necessary to change the fabric supplier
o To negotiate the fabric price with the supplier if their quality is below
expectation.
Identifying Quality Problems:
In order to have easy communication with the suppliers regarding quality issues, when
completing the “comments section” record down the main discrepancies for each roll.
• Dyeing problem: e.g. variation of batch color, side to center or side to side shade
• Greige quality problem: e.g. yarn run, naps, thick place, barre.
• Finishing problem: poor width setting, dirty marks and streaky appearance
The purchasing team should review the analysis report for every season and arrange a
meeting with the fabric suppliers to discuss any improvements required.
Fabric Inspection Machine:
In order to have a n accurate result and minimize the damage of the fabric, the following
criteria should be mention.
• Roll length meter should be calibrated annually in order to measure the actual fabric
roll length. Record of the calibration date should be maintained and attached on the
fabric inspection machine.
• Over feed component should be available during jersey fabric inspection. No tension
is allowed when the jersey fabric is fed, in order to minimize the damage of the
fabric.
• Fabric inspection machine should be serviced annually. Service record should also
be maintained and attached on the inspection machine.
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4 Point Inspection Standards
1- Inspection Standards and Quantity

Normally different types of fabric will have different kinds of faults. Equally, different
suppliers of the same fabric will have different fabric quality levels, as this depend on the
yarns used and the controls / machinery employed during production. Therefore, the
point level may vary between different types of fabric and suppliers.
2- Agreement of Point Levels (Average & Maximum)

When deciding to buy a specific fabric, it is important to specify and agree the level of
visual defects that is acceptable to you – this should reflect what is generally understood
as Grade A, and is determined by the AVERAGE number of points (per 100 linear yards
or meters) across a delivery of bulk fabric. Please note that points per individual roll
may vary above or below this average.
It is therefore equally important to specify the MAXIMUM number of points within 100
linear yards or meters that is acceptable to you – this maximum point level represents
the dividing line between Grade A and Grade B. Hence any roll of fabric whose point
level is above the agreed maximum should be treated as Grade B and compensation
should be sought from the Mill.
3- Number of Cut per Fabric Rolls

No more than 2 pieces of fabric should make up the total roll length.
4- Percentage of Inspection
Normally, 10 – 15% of delivery fabric rolls across dye lot should be inspected.
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5- Other Important Aspects

Bowing Tolerance
Bowing is unacceptable is the gradient of the bowing arc at its highest point when
measured from a line joining the ends of a single pick / course is greater than:
Skew Tolerance
Skewing is unacceptable if it’s gradient when measured from a line at right angles to the
warp is greater than:
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Supplier need to download below fabric inspection record form and related reports from
PUMA GLOBAL GID Share Point to be used:
• Blank fabric Inspection Record
• Example of Completed Fabric Inspection Record
• Fabric Inspection Analysis Record

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QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM

Document No. Version No.

F-02 FABRIC INSPECTION TRAINING MODULE

1- Fabric Buying Page 02

• Blank Fabric Inspection Record

Fabric Buying – Guidelines

Example of these information are as follows:

How to Use the 4-Point System to Assess Fabric

Imperial System: Metric System:

Hole size less than or equal to 1” = 2 points

How to calculate average points per roll:

1- Individual Roll Points

2- Average Points per Inspection Lot

The total point count per inspection lot is calculated by:

a) Totaling the number of yards checked.

Fabric Inspection Procedure

List of tools / equipment that needs to be available before conducting an inspection.

Fabric Inspection Machine Adhesive Stickers

Tools / Equipment for Inspection

Example on How to Inspect Fabric Using 4-Point System:

3) Place the fabric roll on the inspection machine.

Fabric in front of the transmitted lighting

4) Preparation of Inspection Report.

Fabric roll tickets with details information

Record the fabric details before Inspection

6) Measure the cuttable width and record down on the report.

Cuttable Width Measurement

7) Adjust the suitable speed of the machine during fabric inspection.

Speed setting Button

Defect marked with an arrow

Color Shade Checking

12) Record the inspection results:

Re-bagged fabric rolls after inspection

Fabric rolls are placed back on the shelves or

Light Box Shade Band

Summary of Inspection Procedure

4 Point Inspection Standards

1- Inspection Standards and Quantity

2- Agreement of Point Levels (Average & Maximum)

3- Number of Cut per Fabric Rolls

5- Other Important Aspects

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