Nanotechnology in Cosmetics
Nanotechnology in Cosmetics
Nanotechnology in Cosmetics
Nanotechnology in cosmetics
Linda M. Katz, Kapal Dewan*, Robert L. Bronaugh
Office of Cosmetics and Colors, Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, Food and Drug Administration, College Park, MD 20740, USA
a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t
Article history: Nanomaterials are being used in cosmetic products for various effects. However, their use also raises
Received 26 May 2015 potential safety concerns. Some of these concerns can be addressed by determining the type of nano-
Received in revised form materials used, as well as stability, potential for skin absorption, route of exposure, and how they are
24 June 2015
formulated in cosmetic products. There has been considerable effort internationally to harmonize ap-
Accepted 25 June 2015
proaches in order to address definitional issues and safety concerns related to the use of nanomaterials in
Available online 6 July 2015
cosmetic products.
Published by Elsevier Ltd.
Keywords:
Nanomaterials
Cosmetics
Safety of nanomaterials in cosmetics
Skin absorption
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.fct.2015.06.020
0278-6915/Published by Elsevier Ltd.
128 L.M. Katz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 85 (2015) 127e137
titanium dioxide, nanogold, nanosilver and polymers, are clearly studies (Prow et al., 2011) on the same QDs have shown that there is
identified as nanoparticles that might enter into the body and generally no penetration of QDs through intact human stratum
possibly cause safety issues directly. corneum into the viable tissue below. The authors demonstrated
that the manufacturer's alkaline buffer (pH 8.3) facilitated
2.2. Use of nanomaterials in cosmetics increased penetration of the uncharged PEG coated QDs into the
viable epidermis of human skin in diffusion cell studies (Prow et al.,
Probably the most common claim for the use of nanomaterials 2011).
in cosmetics is to enhance the delivery of cosmetic ingredients into Titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles tend
the skin. The small size of lipid vesicles may enable these materials to agglomerate into particles larger than 100 nm and have been
to be absorbed more readily into skin (Cevc and Blume, 1992). generally found in various studies to remain on or near the surface
Scientific studies to substantiate these claims have provided of the skin. Initially, in vitro studies were conducted to separately
differing results. These may be due to study conditions such as examine the skin penetration of both TiO2 and ZnO (Gamer et al.,
nanoparticle size and stability that make it difficult to achieve 2006). Two TiO2 formulations and one ZnO formulation were
consistent results even within the same laboratories. Differing applied to triplicate samples of skin in diffusion cells and studies
physicochemical properties of vesicles can likely affect their in- were run for 24 h. Stratum corneum layers were then removed by
teractions with skin (Honeywell-Nguyen et al., 2002). Some vesi- cellophane tape stripping, and viable skin and receptor fluid were
cles may not penetrate the skin but may simply release their analyzed for TiO2 and ZnO. Results showed that neither nano-
ingredients onto the surface of the skin in a manner that facilitates particle used in the sunscreen formulations was able to penetrate
uptake and penetration into the surface layers of skin (Schafer- porcine stratum corneum into the viable skin or receptor fluid.
Korting et al., 2007). The skin penetration of TiO2 formulations has been evaluated,
Nanomaterials also may be used to impart stability to formu- in vivo, in minipigs (Sadrieh et al., 2010). Three TiO2 particles were
lations that contain ingredients that may decompose due to used with the following sizes as measured by scanning electron
oxidation and other causes (Ourique et al., 2008). However, carrier microscopy (SEM): uncoated submicron sized, 300e500 nm; un-
nanoparticles may have stability problems upon application to the coated nanosized, 30e50 nm; and dimethicone/methacone copol-
skin. ymer coated nanosized, 20e30 nm diameter and 50e150 in length.
Nanoparticles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used pre- Particles were applied at 5% by weight in a sunscreen formulation
dominantly in sunscreen non-prescription drug products; however, at a concentration of 2 mg/cm2. At the end of the studies, the most
they may also be used in cosmetic products (where the resulting concentrated amounts of all three types of particles were found in
product may be both a drug and a cosmetic depending on product the surface layer of skin e the stratum corneum. Only isolated TiO2
claims). These nanomaterials remain effective blockers of UV ra- particles were found in lower layers of the skin. The authors
diation but also result in a transparent formulation that is pleasing concluded that the TiO2 particles studied did not penetrate intact
to the consumer. pig skin epidermis in a significant amount and, therefore, they are
Nanoparticles of silver are used in consumer products as anti- unlikely to penetrate human skin.
bacterial or preservative agents. Cosmetic products in the US The skin absorption of zinc oxide nanoparticles in a transparent
cannot make antibacterial claims, since this claim is associated with sunscreen formulation was examined using excised human skin in
a physiological function, and, thus, its use is limited to drug prod- diffusion cells (Cross et al., 2007). Less than 0.03% of the applied
ucts. Of note, nanosilver is not currently listed by the EU in Annex 5 zinc penetrated into the receptor fluid beneath the skin. No ZnO
of the Cosmetic Directive, which is the approved list for pre- nanoparticles were found in the stratum corneum or viable
servatives allowed to be used in cosmetic products. epidermis as determined by electron microscopy. Further evidence
of a lack of significant ZnO nanoparticle skin penetration was ob-
2.3. Skin absorption of nanomaterials tained in vivo with human volunteers (Zvyagin et al., 2008). A
commercially available sunscreen formulation containing ZnO
The potential skin absorption of nanomaterials is an issue that nanoparticles (about 15e30 nm in size) was applied in amounts to
must be addressed in order to help understand the safety and simulate exposure conditions. Multiphoton microscopy imaging of
usefulness of these materials in cosmetic products. the surface of the skin and below was conducted immediately after
application and at 4 h and 24 h later. ZnO nanoparticles were
2.3.1. Insoluble nanomaterials observed on the surface of the skin following application to the skin
Quantum dots (QD) have been used by a number of investigators and at 4 h. ZnO appeared to localize in skin folds and at the top of
as model compounds to study the skin absorption of nanomaterials. hair follicle shafts without spreading to neighboring cells. None of
They are stable particles and are highly fluorescent which enables the nanoparticles were observed on the skin surface at 24 h, pre-
tracking of any skin permeation that occurs by using instruments sumably due to bathing. No evidence of ZnO penetrating past the
that measure this fluorescence. stratum corneum into the viable epidermis was observed.
Initial studies by Jessica Ryman-Rassmussen and coworkers The skin absorption of both TiO2 and ZnO nanoparticles in
(Ryman-Rasmussen et al., 2006) were conducted with pig skin topical formulations was evaluated by in vivo and in vitro tech-
assembled in diffusion cells. QDs with two different sizes and three niques using skin from weanling Yorkshire pigs (Monteiro-Riviere
different surface charges were selected to determine the effect of et al., 2011). The main purpose of this study was to determine if
particle size and surface charge on skin penetration. Application to mild skin damage from UV irradiation that might be seen with sun
skin was made in a pH 8.3 or pH 9.0 buffer supplied by the exposure resulted in enhanced skin penetration of the nano-
manufacturer. Absorption into the skin was assessed by measuring particles. The skin for both in vivo and in vitro studies was pre-
fluorescence of the particles using confocal microscopy. Spherical treated with UV light prior to dosing with the nanoparticle
QDs with each surface coating were found to penetrate through the formulations. At the end of the in vitro absorption studies, TiO2 was
stratum corneum into the viable epidermis and dermis within 8 h. found in deeper layers of the stratum corneum in the damaged skin,
The ellipsoidal QD with a glycol-amine coating was observed in the compared to normal skin, using transmission electron microscopy
epidermis within 8 h; whereas a carboxylic acid coating resulted in (TEM). No penetration into the stratum corneum was observed for
a delay of epidermal penetration until 24 h. Recent additional ZnO nanoparticles with either normal or damaged skin. At the end
L.M. Katz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 85 (2015) 127e137 129
of the in vivo studies, TiO2 was found in deeper stratum corneum their ability to change shape as they pass through small spaces in
layers than ZnO in both normal and damaged skin. However, there the skin, which may be advantageous in their ability to promote
was minimal penetration of either nanoparticle into the epidermis, absorption. Subsequent studies from the same laboratory were
and no indication of systemic absorption of the nanoparticles in conducted on flexible liposomes prepared with either PEG-8-L or
these studies. Tween 20 as the micelle forming surfactant (Honeywell-Nguyen
A few studies have been published concerning the ability of et al., 2002). After separate application of flexible and rigid lipo-
other metal nanoparticles to penetrate skin. The absorption of sil- some formulations to the skin of human volunteers, the stratum
ver nanoparticles through excised human skin was measured in corneum layers were sequentially removed by cellophane tape
diffusion cells (Larese et al., 2009). The silver nanoparticles were stripping after 1 h. Intact liposomes prepared with either surfactant
stabilized to prevent aggregation by coating them with poly- were seen on the skin surface and as deep as the ninth tape strip.
vinylpirrolidone. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) mea- This indicated that some intact flexible liposomes could penetrate
surements found the size of the particles to range between 25 and deep into the stratum corneum. It cannot be determined from the
48 nm. The skin in some cells was abraded with a hypodermic electron micrographs if sufficient numbers of flexible liposomes
needle according to the method of Bronaugh and Stewart can penetrate into the stratum corneum to result in a biological
(Bronaugh and Stewart, 1985). The nanoparticles were applied in a effect. Intact rigid liposomes were not found on the skin surface.
synthetic sweat solution resulting in an application of 70 mg/cm2 Instead, extensive liposome vesicle fusion was observed resulting
silver nanoparticles to the skin surface. Silver concentration in the in lipid bilayers that were visible on the skin surface. No evidence
receptor fluid beneath the skin at the end of 24 h was 0.46 ng/cm2 was found of rigid liposomes penetrating into the stratum
with intact skin and 2.32 ng/cm2 with damaged skin. In addition to corneum.
the very low penetration through the skin, silver nanoparticles Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers
could also be detected in the stratum corneum and the upper re- (NLC) are also believed to decompose on the skin surface and
gion of the viable epidermis by TEM analysis. release their contents (Schafer-Korting et al., 2007; Kuchler et al.,
A publication from the same laboratory has shown that gold 2009; Weichers and Musee, 2010). SLN are made with lipids solid
nanoparticles are also absorbed in vitro into and through human at room temperature and NLC are prepared with a mixture of solid
skin (Filon et al., 2011). The nanoparticles were as small as 12.6 nm and liquid lipids (Schafer-Korting et al., 2007). Both types of
in diameter but tended to form aggregates. They were applied to nanoparticles are prepared using high pressure homogenization.
skin in a synthetic sweat solution at concentrations of 15 and 45 mg/ The amount of active ingredient that can be carried by an SLN varies
cm2 for the high and low doses respectively. Gold content in the with solubility properties of the ingredient but can be roughly
receptor fluid at the end of the 24 h experiments were 214 and about 1% of the final formulation (Schafer-Korting et al., 2007). NLC
188 ng/cm2 for the respective doses. It appears that a small but preparations generally can contain higher levels of active in-
higher amount of nanogold was absorbed than nanosilver in the gredients but SLN preparations can sometimes improve chemical
experiments from the same laboratory. The authors recognized that stability. Increased delivery of the lipophilic dye Nile Red was
a possible confounding feature is that the dosing solutions shown in SLN compared with NLC and a conventional cream
remained on the skin surface for the entire 24 h experiments in formulation (Kuchler et al., 2009). Evaporation of water following
both studies. The authors believe that this might result in a hy- application of the SLN and NLC nanoparticles to the skin surface
drating effect which could impact on skin absorption. The high dose triggers formation of a lipid film on the surface of skin which is
nanogold studies found less absorption of gold than the low dose thought to promote diffusion of ingredients into the skin (Schafer-
study e an effect that could have been caused by the different Korting et al., 2007).
volumes of dosing solution applied.
The skin absorption of metal nanoparticles less than 10 nm in 2.3.3. Polymers (soluble/insoluble nanomaterials)
diameter was examined by Baroli et al. (Baroli et al., 2007). The use of dendrimers and other polymers is being explored as a
Maghemite (diameter 5.9 nm) and iron (diameter 4.9 nm) nano- method of delivery of ingredients into and through the skin. Poly-
particles were synthesized and their stability was assessed. Organic mers have the advantage of relatively small size and stability and
coatings were applied to both nanoparticles to prevent irreversible can be soluble or insoluble nanoparticles depending on their
aggregation. Absorption studies were conducted with excised hu- structure. Unlike lipid vesicles, soluble polymer nanoparticles are
man skin in diffusion cells and the location of nanoparticles in skin stable and do not disintegrate on or near the surface of the skin.
was determined by electron microscopy. The studies found that Enhanced skin absorption of indomethacin was observed by the
both nanoparticles were able to penetrate the skin into the stratum addition of polyamidoamine (PAMAM) dendrimers to aqueous
corneum layer and into the hair follicle openings. They diffused into formulations applied to rat skin (Chauhan et al., 2003). The den-
the lower layer of the stratum corneum; however, only in rare in- drimers were found to substantially increase the solubility of the
stances were the nanoparticles found in the viable epidermis. hydrophobic indomethacin in the formulations used. Dendrimers
that have potentially many binding sites per molecule could be
2.3.2. –Soluble nanomaterials more effective than other solubility enhancing chemicals. In vitro
Liposomes have been widely used in cosmetic products for a skin penetration of indomethacin was enhanced by the 0.2% con-
number of years for the purpose of increasing the delivery of in- centration of the generation 4 dendrimer with surface amino
gredients into the skin. Cevc was the first to develop flexible lipo- groups (G4-NH2) by a factor of 4.5 compared to the pure drug
somes (called transfersomes) which were claimed to be more suspension. In vivo absorption from a transdermal patch was found
effective than rigid liposomes in the delivery of ingredients through to increase 2.7% with the 0.2% dendrimer formulation. The authors
skin (Cevc and Blume, 1992; Cevc et al., 1995). The same principle of suggested that the increases in penetration of indomethacin from
creating a flexible liposome to enhance delivery was applied by Van the PAMAM dendrimer formulations were based solely on in-
den Bergh using the micelle-forming surfactant creases in solubility of the drug in the formulations and not on
octaoxyethylenelaurate-ester (PEG-8-L) to create flexibility in the delivery of the drug into the skin by the dendrimer.
liposomes synthesized (van den Bergh et al., 1999). Vesicle diam- PAMAM dendrimers were found to enhance the delivery into
eter was between 100 and 150 nm, as determined by dynamic light skin of 5-fluorouracil (5-FU)e a model compound for hydrophilic
scattering. The rationale behind the use of flexible liposomes is in compounds (Venugganti and Perumal, 2009). The effects of
130 L.M. Katz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 85 (2015) 127e137
dendrimer surface charge, size, and concentration on in vitro pig Larger particles that tend to agglomerate, such as TiO2 and ZnO,
skin absorption was examined. Skin was pretreated with the den- do not appear to present a hazard due to a lack of significant skin
drimers for 24 h and then the dendrimers were removed. The absorption (Gamer et al., 2006; Sadrieh et al., 2010; Cross et al.,
control solution of 5-FU in isopropyl myristate was applied and the 2007; Zvyagin et al., 2008; Monteiro-Riviere et al., 2011). Howev-
skin permeability constant was determined. The smallest sized er, smaller particles less than 10 nm in size have been shown to
dendrimers (generation-2) were most effective in increasing occasionally reach the viable skin layers (Baroli et al., 2007).
penetration of 5-FU compared with the control solution only. The However, the pathway of penetration of even a few nanoparticles
permeability constant of 5-FU was increased by 2.5 and 1.9 fold through intact skin is not clear. These particles are still much larger
respectively with the cationic and neutral dendrimers. The than 500 Da, which is the approximate size of the upper limit of
enhancement was only 1.5-fold with the negatively charged den- molecules that can be significantly absorbed through skin (Bos and
drimer. Penetration of dendrimers into the skin was limited to the Meinardi, 2000). For example, a generation 2 PAMAM dendrimer
“first few layers of skin” presumably because of their large molec- has a diameter of only 2.9 nm yet the molecular weight is 3256 Da
ular weight. (Tomalia et al., 1990). This demonstrates that even very small nano-
Dendritic core multishell (CMS) neurotransmitter nanoparticles molecules can have extremely large molecular weights in com-
were synthesized and evaluated for their ability to enhance the skin parison to those of molecules known to penetrate the skin.
absorption of a model dye (Nile Red) into excised pig skin. The CMS Absorption studies have been conducted on damaged skin to
nanoparticles were found to be 20e30 nm in size by photon cor- determine if enhanced penetration of nanoparticles could be
relation spectroscopy. The dye was added to an aqueous solution of facilitated by conditions that alter the barrier properties (e.g. cuts,
the CMS polymer which was then stirred vigorously for 72 h and scrapes, severe sunburn, and certain skin diseases such as eczema).
then filtered to remove insoluble residues of the dye. Penetration of Repeated stripping of the surface of the skin with cellophane tape is
the Nile Red dye into the stratum corneum and the viable epidermis a frequently used technique to remove the stratum corneum.
was increased by the CMS nanoparticles by 8-fold and 13-fold Abrasion of the skin surface is a more severe procedure that
respectively when compared to the cream formulation. Accumu- removes much of the epidermal layer including the stratum cor-
lation of nanoparticles in the furrows of the skin surface suggests neum. The flexing or rubbing the surface of skin has also been
that the mechanism of enhanced delivery is the facilitation of the studied as a means of facilitating particle absorption (Tinkle et al.,
mixing of the lipids from both the nanoparticles and the skin sur- 2003). Tinkle and coworkers observed that beryllium particles
face (Kuchler et al., 2009). (0.5e1.0 mm) penetrated into human epidermis following repeated
Polycaprolactone (PCL) nanocapsules are polymer nanoparticles mechanical flexing of the skin in a 1 h in vitro study (Tomalia et al.,
that have been used by L'Oreal and others to encapsulate in- 1990). Quantum dots (QDs) have frequently been used as model
gredients for use in cosmetic products (Clemmensen et al., 2007). compounds in studies to assess barrier integrity because of relative
Particle size can vary with the method of synthesis but has been stability, ease of detection, and fluorescent properties.
reported to be in the range of 100e200 nm (Ourique et al., 2008; Zhang and Monteiro-Riviere (Zhang and Monteiro-Riviere,
Clemmensen et al., 2007). An allergic reaction to retinyl palmitate 2008) examined the effects of the above techniques on the skin
in a cosmetic product was attributed to possible enhanced skin penetration of two QDs. The hydrodynamic diameters of QD565
absorption in these nanocapsules since retinyl palmitate is nor- and QD655 were 14 nm and 18 nm, respectively. Neither QD was
mally only a weak skin sensitizer (Clemmensen et al., 2007). Reti- found to penetrate into the stratum corneum when applied to rat
noic acid (tretinoin) was encapsulated in PCL nanocapsules to skin assembled in diffusion cells with or without skin flexing. Both
determine if photostability could be enhanced (Ourique et al., QDs were found only on the surface of the viable epidermis after
2008). Tretinoin-loaded nanocapsules resulted in a doubling of studies conducted for 8 or 24 h. Only removal of the epidermis by
photostability to between 85 and 100 min when compared with the skin abrasion prior to dosing resulted in penetration of the QDs into
control methanol solution. The skin absorption of the sunscreen the dermal layer of skin after 24 h.
agent benzophenone-3 (BZ3) was examined following PCL encap- No penetration of a different QD with a polymer coating (total
sulation since BZ3 can be absorbed through the skin with potential diameter approximately of 37 nm) was observed through intact and
adverse effects (Marcato et al., 2011). Skin absorption into and tape-stripped hairless mouse skin (Gopee et al., 2009). Studies were
through human skin in diffusion cells was reduced 70e80% when conducted in vivo and absorption was assessed by measurement of
BZ3 was applied in the nanocapsules. QDs in lymph nodes and the liver. Some penetration into internal
Lipoic acid is a supplement with antioxidant properties that can organs was found following application of QDs to abraded skin.
be measured in the laboratory by its inhibitory effects on lipid Significant penetration of small (approximately 4 nm) QDs was
peroxidation (Kulkamp et al., 2011). PCL nanocapsules have been not observed past the stratum corneum layer of skin, even after a
shown to increase the antioxidant activity of lipoic acid as five or ten minute massaging of the surface of the skin following
compared to the activity of lipoic acid in a control solution application. Subsequent studies following removal of most of the
(Kulkamp et al., 2011). The beneficial effect of PCL encapsulation is stratum corneum by tape-stripping resulted in some penetration of
thought to be due to stabilization of the lipoic acid in combination QDs into deeper layers of skin but only when the studies were
with a slow, prolonged release of the compound. accompanied by a ten minute skin surface massage (Gratieri et al.,
2010).
2.4. Safety of nanomaterials QDs were also used to examine possible penetration of a
nanomaterial in vivo through hairless mouse skin exposed to ul-
The skin is the primary route of exposure to nanomaterials in traviolet radiation (Mortensen et al., 2008). The QD565 had a hy-
the use of cosmetic products. As we have seen from the discussion drodynamic diameter of approximately 30 nm in the 75% glycerol
in the previous section, there are still some uncertainties in the solution used for application. Minimal penetration of the QDs was
ability of nanomaterials to penetrate the surface layer of skin (the observed with intact mouse skin but appeared to increase slightly
stratum corneum) into the viable layers of skin where toxicological in the UV irradiated animals after the 8 and 24 h studies. These
concerns could arise. Furthermore, it is in the viable skin where studies (in this and the previous three paragraphs), using various
nanoparticles could be taken up by blood vessels for systemic methods to create skin damage, illustrate the importance of the
distribution. skin barrier in preventing or reducing possible toxicity from dermal
L.M. Katz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 85 (2015) 127e137 131
exposure to nanomaterials. most will not create increased toxicity at the nanoscale level
Nanomaterials may exhibit unique biochemical properties (Zvyagin et al., 2008). The authors suggest that caution should be
compared with microparticles of the same chemical, since a used in interpreting toxicity data from nanoparticles since any
nanomaterial has a large fraction of its atoms on the surface of observed effects might be due to the presence of insoluble particles
the particle (larger surface area to mass ratio). These unique in cells and not necessarily on the size of these particles (Zvyagin
chemical properties may result in unique bioactivity (Castranova, et al., 2008).
2011). It therefore becomes important to understand which The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products stated in
chemical properties are ones that might be of most importance in their most recent nanomaterials safety evaluation that soluble
predicting a biological response from a nanomaterial. Regarding nanoparticles may not require new safety studies because con-
TiO2 and pulmonary toxicity, bioactivity has been shown to ventional risk assessment methodologies may be satisfactory
depend on the size of individual nanomaterials as well as the (Scientific Committee o and January 9, 2012). However, there is no
agglomeration state (Mortensen et al., 2008). The in vitro effect of discussion of the situation that could occur if a soluble nano-
nanomaterials on rat liver cells in culture was evaluated to material promotes increased absorption of another ingredient.
determine if any cellular morphological changes could be Presumably, new safety studies may be needed if they are not
observed (Hussain et al., 2005). Silver nanoparticles were toxic in available to support the safety of the ingredient at the enhanced
the mitochondrial function test and membrane leakage test; exposure levels.
whereas, other similarly sized nanoparticles of molybdenum, Inhalation is less important than skin absorption as a route of
aluminum, iron oxide and titanium dioxide were not toxic at the exposure for most cosmetics; however, the possibility of health
lower dose. The study suggested that nanomaterial toxicity was concerns from inhalation of nanomaterials should not be ignored.
not a function solely of size of the particle but depended on other Much of the research in this area has been conducted based on
chemical properties. concerns about occupational exposure. Nanomaterials have been
Further studies have been conducted to look more closely at shown to cause significant adverse effects both in vitro and in an-
potential toxicity of nano and micro sized particles of the same imals from deposition of particles in regions of the lung
chemical. Effects of silver nanoparticles (35 nm) and micro-sized (Castranova, 2011). A growing database is described containing
particles (1.6 mm) were examined for their effects on the mortal- physiochemical properties of a nanoparticle and its bioactivity in
ity of neonatal Daphnia Magna aquatic invertebrates (Gaiser et al., pulmonary toxicology.
2011). Neonates were exposed to the particles for 96 h in an Nanomaterials used in cosmetic products may indirectly create
aqueous suspension. Survival rates of the neonates exposed to 0.1. safety concerns when they are transferred to the environment in
mg/l silver particles demonstrated that the nanoparticles were waste water due to consumer bathing (Weichers and Musee, 2010).
twice as toxic as the microparticles. The potential acute toxicity of Nanomaterials in cosmetics are not likely to be significantly
copper particles was examined in mice following a single oral excreted in human waste because of poor absorption through the
gavage (Zhen et al., 2006). LD50 values for copper nanoparticles skin into the body. (However, nanomaterials parenterally admin-
(23.5 nm) and copper microparticles (17 mm) were 413 and istered to animals have been shown to be readily excreted (Cho
>5000 mg/kg body weight respectively. Damage to the livers and et al., 2009; Chen et al., 2010)). As nanomaterials become more
kidneys of nanoparticle treated mice was observed histopatholog- widely used in consumer products and by other industries, there
ically and from blood biochemistry examination. Male mice were may be exposure to humans from polluted water, air and even
found to exhibit more severe symptoms to nanocopper than female manufacturing establishments. Only limited information is avail-
mice. There were generally no significant toxic effects observed in able on nanowaste generation and further discussion of this issue is
microparticle treated animals. beyond the scope of this chapter.
The toxicity of silica particles was evaluated in a 10 week mouse
feeding study. The approximate diameter of silica nanoparticles 3. Regulatory aspects
was 30 nm and the microparticles were about 30 mm in size. No
significant effects were observed in the overall health of the ani- Regulation of nanomaterials in cosmetics in the United States
mals at the end of the study. However, animals in the nanosilica
group exhibited signs of liver damage as evidenced by elevated FDA's mission is to ensure that the products it regulates, such as
aniline aminotransferase (ALT) and aspartate aminotransferase drugs, biologics, vaccines, and devices, are effective, safe, and
(AST) levels in the blood (So et al., 2008). In another silica feeding properly labeled for use, and that foods and cosmetics are safe and
study in mice, however, similar effects in animals treated with properly labeled. In the case of drugs, biologics, vaccines, devices,
either the nanoparticles (10e20 nm) or the microparticles (45 mm) and foods, FDA has premarket authority by which ingredients and
were observed. Non-specific lesions were seen in organs removed finished products can be assessed prior to marketing. For cosmetics,
from the mice treated with either size particle indicating a low level FDA's authority is post-market only, meaning that the Agency does
of toxicity. No details were provided on the doses administered to not evaluate the safety of ingredients, finished products, or the
the mice or the length of the feeding studies (Cha and Myung, specifics of labeling prior to marketing. FDA exercises its post-
2007). market authority within a “risk management” framework which
Some indication has been provided of potential increased is applied on a case-by-case basis.
toxicity with nanoparticles compared with that of microparticles In 2007, FDA issued its FDA Nanotechnology Task Force Report
although the examples cited are not directly related to cosmetic (Nantotechnology, July 2007), following public meetings and in-
exposure. The importance of an understanding of skin absorption, if ternal discussions aimed at gaining a better understanding of the
any, of these nanoparticles is emphasized (Nafisi et al., 2014) so that nature of the science at that time. The conclusion of that report
an accurate assessment of exposure can be determined. The view was: “The Task Force believes FDA should continue to pursue
that nanoparticles may present a greater risk of toxicity than mi- regulatory approaches that take into account the potential
croparticles is based on the fact that nanoparticles could be more importance of material size and the evolving state of the science.
readily absorbed through membranes or possibly more reactive As a result of the discussion, the Task Force did not recommend
because of their small size. However, there are some that feel that adoption of a formal definition of nanotechnology for regulatory
toxicity of insoluble particles may be independent of size and that purposes but left room for discussion with the Agency of products
132 L.M. Katz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 85 (2015) 127e137
Wording of conditions of
deficient or might need further guidance or regulatory modifi-
cations. As a result of this Report and further interest in nano-
products, FDA has developed a “Final Guidance for Industry
i
authority has been felt to be adequate to deal with new technology
through its pre-market approval process. One of the notable ex-
ceptions has been in the area of cosmetics. Cosmetics products, as
noted above, are not subject to pre-market approval, and the reg-
ulatory authority for cosmetics lies within the Federal Food, Drug,
and Cosmetic Act (sections 601 and 602) (Federal Food), stating that
Other
cosmetics shall not be adulterated nor misbranded. In order to
h
address the issues of nanotechnology in cosmetics, FDA developed
a separate guidance for the safety of nanomaterials in cosmetic
Maximum concentration
products, which was published in June 2014. This final guidance on
Nanotechnology, “Guidance for Industry: Safety of Nanomaterials
b) 1.7% (acid)
a) 2.5% (acid)
in Cosmetic Products” (Guidance for Industry) provides guidance to
c) 0.5% (acid)
preparation
0.5% (acid)
0.5% (acid)
industry and other stakeholders regarding FDA's thinking about the
2% (acid)
safety assessment of nanomaterials in cosmetics and is intended to
assist interested parties in identifying potential safety issues and
g
how to assess them.
a) Rinse-off products,
b) Oral care products
c) Leave-on products
International perspectives on regulation of nanomaterials in
Conditions
cosmetics
201-176-3/241-503-7/
223-795-8/209-166-0/
Japan, and the United States, was formed in 2007 to address areas of
213-361-6/202-293-2
200-618-2/208-534-8
206-323-5/205-290-4
cosmetic-related concerns, with a goal to cooperate or harmonize,
whenever possible. The mission of this group is to remove regu-
latory obstacles among regions, while maintaining the highest level
EC number
of consumer protection.
Nanotechnology has been an ongoing topic for discussion, and
e
has been broken down into the following topics: criteria, safety, and
582-25-2/553-70-8/4337-
4075-81-4/557-27-7/327-
1205-50-3/939-48-0/93-
2315-68-6/136-60-7/
62-8/137-40-6
as “a substance used in a cosmetic is considered a nanomaterial if it
CAS number
the Joint). The finished work products of the safety and character-
butyl benzoate/calcium
propionate/magnesium
Ammonium benzoate/
magnesium benzoate/
mea-benzoate/methyl
propionate/potassium
Benzoic acid; Sodium
ingredients glossary
benzoate/potassium
isopropyl benzoate/
ization working groups have been finalized and can be found on the
propionate/calcium
propionate/sodium
isobutyl benzoate/
Name of common
benzoate/phenyl
propionate
benzoate
number
3
a
133
(continued )
134
Reference Chemical name/INN Substance identification Conditions Wording of conditions of
number use and warnings
Name of common CAS number EC number Product type, body parts Maximum concentration Other
ingredients glossary in ready for use
preparation
a b c d e f g h i
135
(continued on next page)
(continued )
136
Reference Chemical name/INN Substance identification Conditions Wording of conditions of
number use and warnings
Name of common CAS number EC number Product type, body parts Maximum concentration Other
ingredients glossary in ready for use
preparation
a b c d e f g h i
48 Glutaraldehyde (Pentane- Glutaral 111-30-8 203-856-5 0.1% Not to be used in aerosols Contains glutaral (9)
1,5-dial) (sprays)
49 5-Ethyl-3,7-dioxa-1- 7-ethylbicyclooxazolidine 7747-35-5 231-810-4 0.3% Not to be used in oral
azabicyclo[3.3.0] octane products and in products
applied on mucous
membranes
50 3-(p-Chlorophenoxy)- Chlorphenesin 104-29-0 203-192-6 0.3%
propane-1,2 -diol
51 Sodium Sodium 70161-44-3 274-357-8 0.5%
hydroxymethylamino hydroxymethylglycinate
acetate
52 Silver chloride deposited Silver chloride 7783-90-6 232-033-3 0.004% (as AgCl) 20% AgCl (w/w) on TiO2.
on titanium dioxide Not to be used in products
1. For the purposes of this list: ‘Salts’ is taken to mean: salts of the cations sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium and ethanolamines; salts of the anions chloride, bromide, sulphate, acetate. ‘Esters’ is taken to
mean: esters of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl.
2. All finished products containing formaldehyde or substances in this Annex and which release formaldehyde must be labeled with the warning ‘contains formaldehyde’ where the concentration of formaldehyde in the finished
product exceeds 0.05%.
L.M. Katz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 85 (2015) 127e137 137