Frommer's Ireland 2005

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Date: 2005.10.05
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Ireland
2005
by Suzanne Rowan Kelleher
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About the Author
Suzanne Rowan Kelleher is a freelance travel writer and the former Europe Editor
of Travel Holiday magazine. Her work has appeared in many publications, includ-
ing Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel, Cigar Aficionado, Esquire, Four Seasons, and
Newsweek. In addition, she is a frequent host of online chats about Ireland for
MSNBC.com’s travel website. She has recently repatriated to the U.S. after having
lived in Ireland and traveled extensively there for years.
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5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps vii
What’s New in Ireland 1
1 The Best of Ireland 4
1 The Best Picture-Postcard 8 The Best Family Resources . . . .13

Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 9 The Best Active Vacations . . . . .14
2 The Best Natural Wonders . . . . . .8 10 The Best Luxury
3 The Best Castles . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . .15
4 The Best of Ancient Ireland . . . .10 11 The Best Moderately Priced
5 Remnants of the Golden Age: Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . .16
The Best Early Christian Ruins . . .11 12 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . .17
6 The Best Literary Spots . . . . . . .12 13 The Best Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
7 The Best Gardens . . . . . . . . . . .13 14 The Best Websites . . . . . . . . . .19
2 Planning Your Trip to Ireland 21

1 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . .21 10 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .46
2 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .22 11 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .48
3 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .25 Money-Saving Rail & Bus
4 Entry Requirements & Passes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Road Rules in a Nutshell . . . . . .53
5 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 12 From Cottages to Castles:
6 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Putting a Roof over
Your Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
Ireland Calendar of Events . . . .30
13 Tips on Restaurants & Pubs . . . .61
7 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .35
14 Tips on Sightseeing &
8 Tips for Travelers with Special
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
15 Tracing Your Irish Roots . . . . . . .65
Summer School . . . . . . . . . . . .39
16 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .67
9 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
17 Recommended Reading . . . . . .68
Don’t Go There! . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Fast Facts: Ireland . . . . . . . . . .69
Go There! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
3 Ireland Outdoors 75
1 Bicycling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 3 Bird-Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
2 Walking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 4 Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
Ireland’s National Parks . . . . . .79 5 Horseback Riding . . . . . . . . . . .82
iv CONTENTS
6 Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 8 Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86

Angling for Trout & Salmon . . .84 9 Diving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
7 Kayaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 10 Windsurfing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87
4 Dublin 89
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 Family Favorites . . . . . . . . . . .146
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .95 6 The Great Outdoors . . . . . . . .150
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .96 These Boots Are Made for
How Slow is Dublin Traffic? . . .98 Hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Fast Facts: Dublin . . . . . . . . . .100 7 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . .152
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .102 8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .115 New Kid on the Block:
The Old City . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
Picnic, Anyone? . . . . . . . . . . .124
9 Dublin After Dark . . . . . . . . . .159
5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .129
10 Side Trips from Dublin . . . . . . .167
The Book of Kells . . . . . . . . . .132
Monumental Humor . . . . . . . .140
5 Out from Dublin 177

1 County Wicklow & County Beyond the Pale in County
Carlow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 Laois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199
A Gourmet Garden Party . . . . .188 3 Counties Meath & Louth/
2 County Kildare: Ireland’s Horse The Boyne River Valley . . . . . .201
Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195
6 The Southeast 210

1 County Wexford . . . . . . . . . . .210 2 County Waterford . . . . . . . . . .227
The Simpson’s Fascination: 3 South Tipperary . . . . . . . . . . .240
Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .217 4 County Kilkenny . . . . . . . . . . .249
A Trip Through History:
Exploring the Ring of Hook . . .220
7 Cork: The Rebel City 265

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 5 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .268 6 Spectator Sports & Outdoor
Fast Facts: Cork City . . . . . . . .269 Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .270 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .272 8 Cork After Dark . . . . . . . . . . .280
CONTENTS v
8 Out from Cork 283

1 Kinsale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .283 Southern Exposure:
2 East Cork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .292 An Excursion to Cape
Clear Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300
3 West Cork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296
9 County Kerry: The Kingdom 312

1 The Iveragh Peninsula . . . . . . .312 3 The Dingle Peninsula . . . . . . .336
Scrabble with an Irish Accent . . .317 Swimming with a Dolphin . . . .341
2 Killarney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .323 4 Tralee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346
10 The Mouth of the Shannon: Limerick & Clare 352

1 Limerick City & Environs . . . . .352 Knowing Your Castles . . . . . . .368
2 County Clare . . . . . . . . . . . . .363
11 Galway City 383

Souvenir Stories: The Claddagh 5 Spectator Sports & Outdoor
Ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384 Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .395
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .387 7 Galway City After Dark . . . . . .397
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .390 8 Side Trips from Galway City . . .399
4 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393
12 Out from Galway 404

1 The Galway Bay Coast . . . . . .404 Lough Inagh & the Walk to
2 Connemara . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408 Maum Ean Oratory . . . . . . . . .416
An Excursion to Inishbofin . . . .411
Malachy Kearns, the Bodhran
Maker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .414
13 The Northwest: Mayo, Sligo & Donegal 423

1 County Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . .424 3 Donegal Town . . . . . . . . . . . .446
A Trip to Clare Island . . . . . . .427 4 The Donegal Bay Coast . . . . . .452
Local Hero: Grace O’Malley . . .429 5 The Atlantic Highlands . . . . . .460
2 Sligo & Yeats Country . . . . . . .434 6 The Inishowen Peninsula . . . . .468
14 The Midlands: Along the River Shannon 473

1 Lower Shannon: The Lough 3 Upper Shannon: From Lough
Derg Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .473 Ree to Lough Allen . . . . . . . . .487
2 Middle Shannon: From Birr
to Athlone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .482
vi CONTENTS
15 Northern Ireland 493

1 Northern Ireland Essentials . . .497 Going to the Birds: A Trip to
Fast Facts: Northern Ireland . . .500 Rathlin Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .524
2 Belfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .501 5 The Mourne Mountains . . . . . .529
3 Side Trips from Belfast . . . . . .513 6 Derry City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .535
4 The Causeway Coast & the 7 The Sperrin Mountains . . . . . .546
Glens of Antrim . . . . . . . . . . .521 8 The Fermanagh Lakelands . . . .551
Appendix A: Ireland in Depth 559

1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .559 The Big Hand Says Moo . . . . .569
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .559 Did You Know? . . . . . . . . . . .570
So It Was All a Terrible 2 Ireland Today . . . . . . . . . . . . .571
Mix-up? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .566 Reaching Generation X . . . . . .572
Civil Disobedience, 3 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .572
Irish-Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .567
Appendix B: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 573
Index 576
List of Maps
Ireland 6 Cork City 267

Irish Rail Routes 49 County Cork 285
Major Irish Bus Routes 51 County Kerry 313
Dublin Orientation 92 Killarney 325
Dublin Area Rapid Transit (DART) Limerick City 353
Routes 97 County Clare 365
Dublin Accommodations 104 Galway City 385
Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Area County Galway 405
Accommodations 113
County Mayo 425
Dublin Dining 116
County Sligo 435
Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Area
Dining 127 Sligo Town 437
Dublin Attractions 130 Donegal Town 447
Side Trips from Dublin 169 County Donegal 453
The East Coast 179 The River Shannon’s Shores 475
The Southeast 212 Northern Ireland 494
Wexford Town 215 Belfast 503
Waterford City 229 Derry City 537
Kilkenny City 253
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Ireland 2005
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s Portable Dublin
Frommer’s Best Loved Driving Tours in Ireland
Ireland For Dummies
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use eight feature icons that point you to
the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
Warning Warning—traveler’s advisories are usually in effect
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
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What’s New in Ireland
S moke gets in the eyes of fewer Irish-
men these days, as the long-awaited
consumer pricing report determined
that Ireland has become the most
nationwide smoking ban in public expensive country in Europe. But
places—including hotels, restaurants, we’ve witnessed the pricing tide begin-
and pubs—was made law in early ning to recede in 2004, and we salute
2004. For nonsmokers, the change has the hoteliers and restaurateurs who
meant being able to enjoy a nice meal have worked hard to make Ireland a
in a restaurant or a pint of Guinness in more affordable place.
a pub without what used to be a ubiq- Another welcome trend that’s con-
uitous smoky haze. And now, nearly a tinued is the popularity of fixed-price
year since the law was enacted, opin- meals at restaurants all over Ireland.
ion polls show the public response to You can save substantially on your
be overwhelmingly supportive. So, meals if you choose the “early bird”
what’s a smoker to do? Try to find one and “pretheater” dinner menus, or
of the many pubs and restaurants that from a variety of other multicourse
have opened outdoor beer gardens— fixed menus. Other thrifty strategies
a trend that’s sprung from the ban. include visiting more expensive restau-
Want to be where the action is this rants for lunch and going for “pub
year? Set your compasses due south, grub” at dinnertime.
because Cork City is the European If you’re going to be doing a lot of
Cultural Capital in 2005, with a daz- sightseeing, buy a Heritage Card, for
zling calendar that’s chockablock with €20 ($24), which gives you unlimited
theater, art, music, dance, and general access for a year to 65 heritage sites
partying all year long. For more about across Ireland. You can buy the card
what’s happening in Cork, see “Ire- by filling out an application online
land Calendar of Events” in chapter 2 (www.heritageireland.ie) or upon your
and chapter 7. You can also see a full arrival at any of the participating sites.
listing of events at www.cork2005.ie. Over the course of a week of sightsee-
Of course, the rest of Ireland ing, the card will pay for itself several
deserves your attention as well. times over.
Here are some of the more notable Another cost-saving tip: Consider
developments. foregoing hotels in favor of short-term,
PLANNING YOUR TRIP Good self-catered accommodations. And
news! After several years of across-the- there’s no better time to go, since the
board hotel and restaurant price hikes, Irish Landmark Trust (ILT; & 01/
we’ve been seeing costs finally leveling 670-4733; www.irishlandmark.com)
off and, in some notable areas—such keeps adding wonderful new proper-
as Dublin’s luxury hotels—prices ties to its impressive stable (and will
have actually fallen. Things were have added even more by the time
looking bleak a few years ago when a you’re reading this). We continue to
2 W H AT ’ S N E W
sing the praises of this organization, for the same price as a B&B, but full-
whose mission is to rescue historic but service restaurants and a host of other
neglected properties all over the island amenities as well. While we’d hate to
and restore them into fabulous hide- see B&Bs disappear from Dublin, we
aways, complete with period furnish- recognize that many budget hotels
ings. When Ireland’s lighthouses were offer travelers extremely good value.
automated in the late 1970s and early Only time will tell whether this trend
1980s, most of the light keepers’ houses will continue.
were left unattended. The ILT has Why didn’t anyone come up with
recently bought and restored several this one sooner? The Dublin Tourist
properties, including the Galley Head Office (www.visitdublin.com) has a
Lightkeeper’s House, in County Cork fantastic new online service for pro-
(p. 308) and the Loop Head Light- crastinators and travelers who don’t
keeper’s House, in County Clare like to get locked into an itinerary. If
(p. 381), and turned them into stun- you’ve left booking your hotel until
ning getaways with spectacular views. the last minute, log on to www.visit
An added bonus: As a not-for-profit dublin.com/lastminute. You’ll find a
institution, the ILT’s prices are hard to list of hotels in Dublin with immedi-
beat. ate availability. Best of all, these last-
The fact that you’re reading this minute rooms are often priced at a
book suggests that you plan to travel deep discount.
to Ireland in the near future, and the Seeing the Sights If you plan on
Irish hospitality industry will no visiting a lot of sights in Dublin, here’s
doubt outdo itself to make your stay a another great time and money saver:
warm and welcoming one. The brand-new Dublin Pass (www.
DUBLIN Getting Around The dublinpass.com) lets you skip the line
biggest thing to hit Dublin in years is at 30 top Dublin attractions and
the spankin’-new LUAS (www.luas.ie), then—wait for it—get in for free. You
a state-of-the-art tram that’s been in can start taking advantage of the pass
operation only since June 2004. the very minute you arrive in Dublin,
(Dubliners, who don’t seem to let any- by getting a free trip into town on Air-
thing slip by without a nickname, Coach (p. 90). There are also dis-
quickly dubbed it the “Daniel Day”). counts at venues and free courses at
Tourists will undoubtedly make good restaurants. See chapter 4.
use of the Red Line, especially the sec- OUT FROM DUBLIN Hats off to
tion that connects Heuston Station, one of our favorite chill-out destina-
the National Museum of Ireland, tions, Brook Lodge Hotel (& 0402/
Smithfield, the Four Courts, Jervis 36444), Macreddin Village, County
Street Shopping Centre, Abbey Street, Wicklow, which just keeps getting
Busaras (the central bus station), and better and better. With double rooms
Connolly Station. from €170 ($205), there may be no
Where to Stay Is the Dublin B&B more luxurious place to stay in Ireland
an endangered species? According to in this price range. (Better yet, check
recent reports in the Irish news, there out the fantastic discounts available
are 30% fewer bed-and-breakfasts in online). Think stress-free chic: King-
the capital today than there were 10 size four-poster beds, wood-paneled
years ago. The reason, it seems, is the window seats, deep tubs, quality
proliferation of budget hotels that linens, and the best organic restaurant
offer not only a room and breakfast on the island. The latest addition to
W H AT ’ S N E W 3
this holistic oasis is The Wells, a €6- high king of Ireland, in 1035, this is
million ($7.5-million) spa that boasts the oldest habitable castle in Ireland.
Finnish baths, mud baths, hot tubs, Spending the night here—in surpris-
Jacuzzis, indoor and outdoor pools, a ing comfort and absolute peace—was a
Hammam, a flotation room, and all unique experience. Perhaps one day,
sorts of massage therapies and skin with luck, travelers will have the privi-
treatments. See p. 188. lege again.
CORK CITY Nightlife It’s with Where to Dine Is there anyone who
more than a bit of sadness that we say still needs convincing that West Cork is
goodbye to Sir Henry’s, which was a great place to eat out? Check out one
Cork’s biggest and best-known night- of our favorite new restaurant entries to
club since it opened in the early this year’s guide, Good Things Cafe
1980s. Sir Henry’s had been on the (& 027/61426), in the lovely seaside
front line of Irish club culture since village of Durrus. This unpretentious,
anyone can remember, and was bare-bones bistro keeps it simple by
responsible for breaking out numer- using the freshest local produce and
ous new Irish bands over the years. artisan cheeses, breads, and foodstuffs.
But unfortunately in recent years it It’s become a foodie’s destination
turned away from live acts and started almost overnight. See p. 311.
using DJs, which turned out to be its GALWAY CITY Where to Stay
downfall. It’s always sad to see an insti- Finally, we can’t stop singing the
tution die, and Cork’s nightlife is the praises of our new favorite base in our
poorer for it. favorite Irish city. Galway Harbour
OUT FROM CORK Where to Hotel (& 091/569466) is the town’s
Stay We’ll also miss the wonderfully best moderately priced place to stay.
eccentric Kilbrittain Castle, near Ban- It’s an unpretentiously chic haven with
don, West Cork, which has recently clean lines and contemporary furnish-
stopped offering bed-and-breakfast. ings, as well as a fabulous location in
Built by the grandson of Brian Boru, the heart of the action. See p. 388.
1
The Best of Ireland
T
“ he modern American tourist,” wrote historian Daniel J. Boorstin, “has come
to expect both more strangeness and more familiarity than the world naturally
offers.” That said, Ireland continues to offer more than its share of both.
At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The lan-
guage is the same, only more lyrical, the faces are familiar, the food recogniza-
ble, the stout legendary. Many visitors, notably Irish Americans, experience their
arrival as a kind of homecoming. It takes a while for this superficial reverie to
wear off. When it does, the other face of Ireland shows itself, and this is when
the country becomes truly exciting.
Ireland is a place of profound contradiction and complexity. For one thing, it
is at the same time both ancient and adolescent. It’s as young as it is old.
Ireland’s age is obvious to anyone with a car. Within a half-day’s drive of
downtown Dublin lie Neolithic tombs, Bronze Age forts, early Christian monas-
tic sites, Viking walls, and Georgian estates—enough antiquity to make your
head spin, all in plain sight. Centuries-old castles are as commonplace in Ireland
as Wal-Mart stores are in the United States. The Irish past doesn’t exist just in
books—it’s in the backyard. A shovel, digging for peat or potatoes, may well
strike a 5,000-year-old grave. Thousands of unexcavated ancient sites litter the
countryside. Any visitor to Ireland who ventures beyond its shops and pubs will
soon be struck by how the country revels in its age.
What is less obvious is how new Ireland is as a nation. The Republic of Ire-
land, with its own constitution and currency, is barely 50 years old. Mary
McAleese, the current president of Ireland, is only the eighth person to hold that
office. In political age, Ireland, for all its antiquity, is a mere pup. Like any ado-
lescent, it’s doing many things for the first time, and at least a few of its contra-
dictions make sense when you keep that fact in mind. Compounding Ireland’s
youth as a nation is the youth of its people. Roughly half of the population is
under 25, and nearly a quarter is under 15. This means that, in some homes,
those who once fought for Irish independence are living under the same roof
with those who have never known anything else. In these same homes, the gap
between generations is often seismic. It is indeed curious that in a country where
what happened 1,000 years ago reads like yesterday’s news, it is common to feel
old and outnumbered at 30.
Ireland’s past has been remarkably tumultuous, inspiring a tradition of
courage, humor, and creativity. Change is nothing new to the island, yet the rate
and scale of the changes occurring in Ireland today are without precedent. And
that’s where the contradictions become so endearing, like the old farmer in a
tweed cap who is afraid of computers but rings his bookmaker on a cellphone.
Like the publican progressive enough to have a website but traditional enough
to not like seeing a woman drinking from a pint glass. (Older folks often tsk-tsk
that “Ladies should drink from half-pint glasses.”) Like the grocer-cum-post-
office, or better still, the grocer-cum-hardware-store-cum-pub, both common
T H E B E S T P I C T U R E - P O S T C A R D TOW N S 5
entities in many a rural town. Like the national weather forecasts, which, even
with the help of a gazillion satellites, still manage to appear so parochially infor-
mal. One Nostradamus-like radio weatherman actually offered this by way of a
forecast: “It’s dry and clear across most of the country, and let’s hope it stays that
way.” The magic of today’s Ireland lies in these daily slices of life. Take the time
to let them wash over you.
1 The Best Picture-Postcard Towns

• Dalkey (County Dublin): This regard it as perhaps the most
charming south-coast suburb of attractive large town in Ireland.
Dublin enjoys both easy access to See chapter 6.
the city and freedom from its • Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’s
snarls and frenzy. It has a castle, an narrow streets all lead to the sea,
island, a mountaintop folly, and a dropping steeply from the hills
few parks, all in ample miniature. that rim the beautiful harbor. This
With all the fine and simple is undoubtedly one of Ireland’s
restaurants and pubs and shops most picturesque towns, but the
anyone needs for a brief visit or a myriad visitors who crowd the
long stay, Dalkey is a tempting streets every summer attest to the
town to settle into. See chapter 4. fact that the secret is out. The
• Carlingford (County Louth): walk from Kinsale through Scilly
What a pleasant surprise, up in to Charles Fort and Frower Point
lackluster Louth: A charming, is breathtaking. Kinsale has the
tiny medieval village with castle added benefit of being a foodie
ruins right on the bay, excellent town, with no shortage of good
eateries, and pedestrian-friendly restaurants. See chapter 8.
lanes filled with colorful shops, • Kenmare (County Kerry): If
cafes, and pubs. See chapter 5. you’re driving the Ring of Kerry,
• Inistioge (County Kilkenny): this is the most charming base
Nestled in the Nore River Valley, camp you could wish for. Origi-
cupped in the soft palm of nally called Naidin (meaning “lit-
rounded hills, this idyllic river- tle nest” in Irish), Kenmare has a
front village with two spacious blessed location at the mouth of
greens and a collection of pleasant the River Roughty on Kenmare
cafes and pubs is among the most Bay, and is loaded to the gills with
photographed Irish towns. It also flower boxes, enchanting shops,
attracts hosts of anglers, because and places to eat. See chapter 9.
fish invariably show good taste • Adare (County Limerick): Like a
and love this place. See chapter 6. perfect little medieval town
• Kilkenny (County Kilkenny): plucked from a children’s book,
Slightly larger than a small town Adare is a bastion of thatched cot-
but terribly picture-postcard tages, black-and-white timbered
nonetheless, Kilkenny may offer houses, lichen-covered churches,
the best surviving Irish example of and romantic ruins, all strewn
a medieval town. Its walls, the along the banks of the River
splendidly restored castle, and the Maigue. And it’s got two of the
renowned design center housed in best hotels and one of the best
the castle stables draw visitors from restaurants in Ireland, to boot. See
Ireland and abroad. Kilkenny, chapter 10.
however, is no museum. Many
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CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND
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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF IRELAND
• Westport (County Mayo): It’s explode into a city, but for now
never a surprise in Ireland when Westport remains a hyperactive
someone says Westport is his or town that somehow manages to be
her favorite town—it’s small and as friendly and welcoming as a vil-
bursting. Someday it might lage. See chapter 13.
2 The Best Natural Wonders

• The Slieve Bloom Environmen- Tower. The views of the open sea,
tal Park (County Laois): Slieve of the distant Aran Islands, and of
Bloom, Ireland’s largest and most the Twelve Bens of Connemara
unspoiled blanket bog, has been (see below) are spectacular. A walk
described as a “scenic bulge” rising south along the cliff edge at sunset
gently above the midland’s peat makes a perfect end to any day.
fields. Its beauty—gentle slopes, See p. 378.
glens, rivers, waterfalls, and bog • Croagh Patrick (County Mayo):
lands—is subtle rather than dra- Rising steeply 750m (2,500 ft.)
matic, but it is comparatively above the coast, Croagh Patrick is
untouched. You can have it more Ireland’s holiest mountain, to
or less to yourself, apart from its which the saint is said to have
deer, foxes, and badgers, and an retreated in penance. The place is
occasional marten or otter. See biblically imposing. Traditionally,
“Beyond the Pale in County barefoot pilgrims climb it on the
Laois,” p. 199. last Sunday of July, but in recent
• MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County years, hundreds of Nike-shod
Kerry): One of several mountain tourists have been making the
ranges on the Iveragh Peninsula, ascent daily. The view from above
MacGillycuddy’s Reeks boasts the can be breathtaking or nonexist-
highest mountain in Ireland, Car- ent—the summit is often wrapped
rantuohill (1,361m/3,404 ft.). in clouds, adding to its mystery.
Whether gazed at from afar or See p. 425.
explored up close on foot, the • The Twelve Bens (County Gal-
Reeks are among Ireland’s greatest way): Amid Connemara’s central
spectacles. See p. 331. mountains, bogs, and lakes rises a
• The Burren (County Clare): The rugged range known as the Twelve
Burren—from the Irish Boireann, Bens, crowning a landscape that is
meaning “a rocky place”—is one among the most spectacular in Ire-
of the strangest landscapes you’re land. Some of the peaks are bare
ever likely to see: a vast limestone and rocky, others clothed in peat.
grassland, spread with a quilt of The loftiest, Benbaun, in Con-
wildflowers from as far afield as nemara National Park, reaches a
the Mediterranean, the Alps, and height of 719m (2,395 ft.). See
the Arctic. Its inhabitants include p. 409.
the pine marten and nearly every • Slieve League (County Donegal):
species of butterfly found in Ire- The Slieve League peninsula
land. See p. 373. stretches for 48km (30 miles) into
• Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): the Atlantic and is 19km (12
Rising from Hag’s Head to the miles) across at its widest point.
south, these magnificent sea cliffs Its wonderfully pigmented bluffs
reach their full height of 228m are the highest sea cliffs in Europe,
(760 ft.) just north of O’Brien’s and can be gazed at from Carrigan
THE BEST CASTLES 9
Head or walked along, if you dare. form the giant Finn McCool’s
From below or from above, Slieve path from the Antrim headland
League serves up some of the most into the sea toward the Scottish
dazzling sights in Ireland. See island of Staffa. This volcanic
p. 457. wonder, formed 60 million years
• Giant’s Causeway (County ago, can be marveled at from a
Antrim): In case you lose count, distance or negotiated cautiously
roughly 40,000 tightly packed, on foot. See p. 523.
mostly hexagonal basalt columns
3 The Best Castles

• Trim Castle (County Meath): addition of beautiful landscaping
Trim, also called King John’s Cas- around the castle. See p. 254.
tle, recently restored as a “pre- • Blarney Castle (County Cork):
served ruin,” is the most massive Despite the mobs of tourists who
and important Anglo-Norman besiege the castle daily, this majes-
castle in Ireland. It proved all but tic tower house is worth a visit.
impregnable for over 4 centuries While you’re there, check out the
(late 12th to mid-17th), suffering Badger Cave and dungeons at the
only one siege during that entire tower’s base, as well as the serpen-
period. In fact, until it collapsed tine paths that wind through the
sometime in the 17th century, it castle gardens, in a picturesque
never underwent any significant rocky glen. Need we mention the
alteration. For anyone with imagi- stone? You sidle in under the upper
nation, Trim is a virtual gateway wall with your head hanging over a
into medieval Ireland. See p. 205. 10-story drop. You kiss it. It’s a
• Cahir Castle (County Tipperary): thing people do. See p. 277.
One of the largest of Ireland’s • Charles Fort (County Cork): On
medieval fortresses, this castle is in a promontory in stunning Kinsale
an extraordinary state of preserva- Harbor, the fort’s massive walls
tion. Tours explain some fascinat- enclose a complex array of build-
ing features of the military ings in varying states of repair. At
architecture, and then you’re free the entrance you’re handed a map
to roam through a maze of tiny and left on your own to explore,
chambers, spiral staircases, and discover, and almost certainly get
dizzying battlements. See p. 242. lost in the maze of courtyards,
• Kilkenny Castle (County Kil- passages, walls, and barracks. See
kenny): Although parts of the cas- p. 284.
tle date from the 13th century, the • Bunratty Castle and Folk Park
existing structure has the feel of an (County Clare): The castle has
18th-century palace. There have been restored and filled with a curi-
been many modifications since ous assortment of medieval fur-
medieval times, including the nishings, giving the modern-day
Impressions
. . . we are a very perverse, complex people. It’s what makes us lovable.
We’re banking heavily that God has a sense of humor.
—Jim Murray, Los Angeles Times, 1976
visitor a glimpse into the life of its • Carrickfergus Castle (County

past inhabitants. This is the first Antrim): This fortress on the bank
stop for many arrivals from Shan- of Belfast Lough is the best-pre-
non, so expect crowds. See p. 366. served Norman castle in Ireland.
• Doe Castle (County Donegal): It consists of an imposing tower
Location, location, location. This house and a high wall punctuated
tower house is surrounded on by corner towers. See p. 514.
three sides by the waters of Sheep • Dunluce Castle (County Antrim):
Haven Bay and on the fourth by a The castle ruins surmount a razor-
moat carved into the bedrock that sharp promontory jutting into the
forms its foundation. With its sea. This was no doubt a highly
remote seaside setting and sweep- defensible setting, and the castle
ing views of the nearby hills, this wasn’t abandoned until a large sec-
is one of the most beautifully tion collapsed and fell into the
situated castles in Ireland. See breakers one day in 1639. See
p. 462. p. 522.
4 The Best of Ancient Ireland

• Newgrange (County Meath): • Loughcrew (County Meath): At
Poised atop a low hill north of the this little-known site, not far from
River Boyne, Newgrange is the Newgrange, a series of cruciform
centerpiece of a dramatic mega- passage tombs crown two hills.
lithic cemetery dating from more On the east hill, a guide unlocks
than 5,000 years ago. The mas- the door to one of the domed
sive, heart-shaped mound and tombs, answering your questions
passage tomb were constructed, it with a personal touch not possible
seems, as a communal vault to at the larger, more popular sites.
house cremated remains. The More rewarding, however, is a
tomb’s passage is so perfectly hike up the west hill to a second,
aligned with the equinoctial sun- more solitary series of tombs
rise that the central chamber, deep where the connections to be made
within the mound, is marvelously between ruin and imaginative
illuminated at the winter solstice. reconstruction are your own. See
See p. 204. p. 204.
• Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of • Lough Gur (County Limerick):
ritual significance from the Stone This lakefront site will convince
Age to the Christian period, Tara you that the Neolithic farmers of
has seen it all and kept it all a Ireland had an estimable sense of
secret. This was the traditional cen- real estate. Inhabited for more
ter and seat of Ireland’s high kings, than 4,000 years, the ancient
who could look out from here and farming settlement offers a num-
survey their realm. Although the ber of prehistoric remains. The
Tara hill is only 154m (512 ft.) most impressive of these is the
above sea level, from here you can largest surviving stone circle in
see each of Ireland’s four Celtic Ireland, made up of 113 stones.
provinces on a clear day. The site is See p. 361.
mostly unexcavated and tells its • Dún Aengus (County Galway):
story in whispers. It’s a place to be No one knows who built this mas-
walked slowly, with an imagina- sive stone fort, or when. The emi-
tion steeped in Ireland’s past. See nent archaeologist George Petrie
p. 203. called Dún Aengus “the most
T H E B E S T E A R LY C H R I S T I A N R U I N S 11
magnificent barbaric monument of the scale and wonder of the

in Europe.” Facing the sea, where ancient megalithic peoples’ rever-
its three stone rings meet steep ence for the dead. Carrowmore is
90m (300-ft.) cliffs, Dún Aengus well presented and interpreted,
still stands guard today over the while Carrowkeel is left to itself
southern coast of the island of and to those who seek it out. See
Inishmore, the largest of the Aran p. 440.
Islands. See “Side Trips from Gal- • Navan Fort (County Antrim):
way City” in chapter 11. There is now little to see of this
• Carrowmore and Carrowkeel place’s past greatness, though it
(County Sligo): These two mega- was once the ritual and royal seat
lithic cities of the dead (Europe’s of Ulster. Thankfully, the interpre-
largest) on the Coolera Peninsula tive center here is nothing short of
may have once contained more remarkable, and it offers a great
than 200 passage tombs. The two introduction to the myth and
together—one in the valley and archaeology of the fort, known in
the other atop a nearby moun- Irish as Emain Macha. See p. 521.
tain—convey an unequaled sense
5 Remnants of the Golden Age:

The Best Early Christian Ruins
• Glendalough (County Wicklow): • The Rock of Cashel (County Tip-
Nestled in “the glen of the two perary): In name and appearance,
lakes,” this important monastic “the Rock” suggests a citadel, a
settlement was founded in the 6th place more familiar with power
century by St. Kevin, who was than with prayer. In fact, Cashel
looking for tranquil seclusion. Its (or Caiseal) means “fortress,” and
setting is disarmingly scenic, so it was. The rock is a huge out-
exactly the opposite of the harsh cropping—or rather upcropping—
environment you’d expect ascetic of limestone topped with some of
medieval monks to have sought the most spectacular ruins in Ire-
out. Although quite remote, land, including what was formerly
Glendalough suffered numerous the country’s finest Romanesque
assaults from the Vikings and the chapel. This was the seat of clerics
English, and eventually dwindled and kings, a center to rival Tara.
into insignificance. Today its pic- Now, however, the two sites vie
turesque ruins collude with the only for tourists. See p. 242.
countryside to create one of the • Skellig Michael (County Kerry):
loveliest spots in Ireland. See Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) off-
p. 180. shore of the Iveragh Peninsula, ris-
• Jerpoint Abbey (County Kil- ing sharply 214m (714 ft.) out of
kenny): Jerpoint is perhaps the the Atlantic, is a stunning crag of
finest representative of the many rock dedicated to the Archangel
Cistercian abbeys whose ruins dot Michael. In flight from the world,
the Irish landscape. What draws early Irish monks in pursuit of
visitors are the splendid cloister, the “white martyrdom” chose this
most richly carved in Ireland, and spot to build their austere her-
the impressive tomb sculptures. mitage. Today the journey to Skel-
The abbey’s tower is the tallest of lig, across choppy seas, and the
its kind in Ireland. See p. 257. arduous climb to its summit are
challenging and unforgettable. See Countryside” under “Sligo &

“The Skellig Islands” under “The Yeats Country” in chapter 13.
Iveragh Peninsula” in chapter 9. • Clonmacnois (County Offaly):
• Inishmurray (County Sligo): This was once one of Ireland’s
This uninhabited island nearly most important religious, artistic,
6.5km (4 miles) off the Sligo coast and literary centers, a place of
is home to a most striking monas- pilgrimage and high culture.
tic complex, surrounded by what Founded in the mid–5th century
appear to be the walls of an even at the axis of the River Shannon
more ancient stone fort. Despite and the medieval east-west thor-
its remoteness, the Vikings sought oughfare known as the Eiscir
out this outpost of peace-seeking Riada, Clonmacnois thrived for
monks for destruction in 807. centuries until its prime riverfront
Today its circular ruins and the location brought repeated raids
surrounding sea present a stun- that nearly proved its undoing.
ning sight, well worth the effort Even in ruins, Clonmacnois
required to reach the shores. See remains a place of peculiar beauty
“Exploring the Surrounding and serenity. See p. 484.
6 The Best Literary Spots

• Glasnevin Cemetery (County • North Dublin: The streets north
Dublin): Besides being the setting of the Liffey are home to many of
for part of the sixth episode of the characters in James Joyce’s sto-
Ulysses, this is the resting place of ries and novels; Joyce lived in this
James Joyce’s parents and several part of Dublin and had a special
other members of his family. The affinity for it. Much has changed
English-born poet Gerard Manley since his time, and Bloom’s house
Hopkins is buried here, in the at 7 Eccles St. has been replaced
Jesuit plot. Maud Gonne, the Irish by a new wing of the Mater Pri-
nationalist and longtime Dublin vate Hospital. Still, many memen-
resident who is said to have tos of the city as it was in 1904
inspired Yeats’s play Cathleen ní survive. Tours of the area begin at
Houlihan, is buried in the Repub- the James Joyce Centre (p. 142).
lican plot. See p. 138. See chapter 4.
• Newman House (County • St. Patrick’s Cathedral (County
Dublin): Cardinal John Henry Dublin): Jonathan Swift was born
Newman was the first rector of the in Dublin in 1667 and entered
Catholic University in Dublin, Trinity College in his 15th year.
which was housed in two buildings He later became dean of St.
on St. Stephen’s Green in the cen- Patrick’s Cathedral, and is buried
ter of the city’s south side. He alongside Hester Johnson (Stella)
worked in that capacity from 1852 in the cathedral’s south aisle. See
until his retirement in 1859. The p. 135.
Catholic University later became • The Aran Islands: John Milling-
University College Dublin, where ton Synge set his play Riders to the
Gerard Manley Hopkins began Sea on Inishmaan, and wrote an
teaching in 1884, as a professor of account of life on the islands,
Greek; after 5 years of teaching titled simply The Aran Islands.
here, Hopkins died at the age of Liam O’Flaherty, known for his
44. James Joyce studied here from novel Famine, is from the island of
1899 to 1902. See p. 141. Inishmore. See p. 399.
T H E B E S T F A M I LY R E S O U R C E S 13
• County Sligo: It seems at times Lough Gill, Glencar Lake, Ben

that every hill, house, and lake in Bulben Mountain, and Maeve’s
the county is signposted in recog- tomb atop Knocknarea Moun-
nition of some relation to W. B. tain—appear in Yeats’s poetry.
Yeats. The poet’s writing was There are also several museums
shaped by the landscape, mythol- housing first editions, photo-
ogy, and people of this region. graphs, and other memorabilia,
Many of Sligo’s natural and and Yeats’s grave is in Drumcliffe.
historic monuments—including See chapter 13.
7 The Best Gardens

• Powerscourt Gardens (County formal garden, with the Casita at
Wicklow): One of the most its center, is linked to a “wild gar-
grandiose of Irish gardens, set den” that showcases a collection
amid the natural splendor of the of rhododendrons, azaleas, and
northern Wicklow Hills. Only rare trees. See p. 299.
19km (12 miles) from Dublin, the • Glenveagh National Park
gardens and nearby waterfall make (County Donegal): The gardens
a great day’s outing, and a wel- and castle are located in a barren,
come respite from the noise and beautiful valley high in the hills of
congestion of the city. See p. 182. Donegal, along the banks of
• Japanese Gardens (County Kil- Lough Veagh. The park contains a
dare): On the grounds of the statuary garden, a walled garden,
National Stud, this is considered and a rhododendron-lined path
the only authentic Japanese gar- that leads to a stunning vista over-
den in Ireland, and one of the looking castle and lake. See p. 462.
finest in Europe. A Japanese spe- • Mount Stewart Gardens (County
cialist planned the structure and Down): Built upon an elaborate
symbolism, and most of the plants plan, the Mount Stewart house has
and stones were imported from several small gardens of distinctive
Japan. See p. 196. character. The Ards Peninsula pro-
• Ilnacullin (County Cork): A vides a climate conducive to culti-
ferry conveys visitors from a vating many subtropical species.
lovely, rhododendron-rimmed The statuary, topiary, and planting
bay in the town of Glengarriff to designs reflect a touch of whimsy.
Garinish Island, the unlikely site See p. 516.
of a fine Italianate garden. The
8 The Best Family Resources

• The Ark: A Cultural Centre for time to be part of Viking life with
Children (Dublin): The Ark pro- “real Vikings” working and inter-
vides a unique chance for kids to acting in a model Norse town. It’s
have hands-on exposure to art, on the site where the Vikings
music, and theater in workshop made their home in Dublin. See
sessions with artists. There are also p. 144.
excellent theater productions for • Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix Park
families. See p. 144. (Dublin): Kids love this nearly 24-
• Dublin’s Viking Adventure hectare (60-acre) zoo, with its array
(Dublin): This is a fun learning of creatures, animal-petting corner,
experience. Kids travel back in and train ride. The surrounding
park has room to run, picnic, and are a series of reconstructed tradi-
explore for hours (or days!). See tional farms, with animals and
p. 145. docents, providing a gateway to
• Irish National Heritage Park rural Ireland as it was for cen-
(County Wexford): Nearly 9,000 turies. See p. 327.
years of Irish history come alive • Fungie the Dolphin Tours (Din-
here in ways that will fascinate vis- gle, County Kerry): Every day,
itors of all ages. The whole family fishing boats ferry visitors out into
will be captivated by the story of the nearby waters to see Fungie,
ancient Ireland, from its first the friendliest dolphin you’re ever
inhabitants to its Norman con- likely to meet. Fungie really does
querors. See p. 214. swim up to the boat, and the boat-
• Fota Island Wildlife Park men stay out long enough for
(County Cork): Surprise! In this ample sightings. You can also
honest-to-goodness wildlife park, arrange an early-morning dolphin
rare an endangered animals really swim. See p. 339.
do roam freely. You’ll see every- • Bunratty Castle and Folk Park
thing from giraffes and zebras to (County Clare): Kids are
kangaroos, flamingos, penguins, enthralled by this great restored
and monkeys on 16 hectares (40 medieval castle and re-created
acres) of grassland. Add in a small 19th-century village. It’s complete
amusement park for toddlers, a with a school and loaded with
tour train, picnic tables, and a gift active craftspeople. See p. 366.
shop and you’ve the makings of • Marble Arch Caves (Marlbank,
a fabulous family day out. See County Fermanagh): Adventur-
p. 293. ous families are guided by boat
• Muckross House & Gardens through well-lit underground
(Killarney, County Kerry): This waterways to explore caves and
stunning Victorian mansion with view amazing stone formations.
its exquisite gardens is also home See p. 554.
to skilled artisans at work. Nearby
9 The Best Active Vacations

• Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: • Sea Kayaking in West Cork: In
Spectacular coastal scenery, inter- Castletownbere on the dramatic
esting harbor towns, and an abun- and rugged Beara Peninsula, Beara
dance of islands make the West Outdoor Pursuits specializes in
Coast a delight for cruising sailors. accompanied trips out and around
See “Sailing” in chapter 3. Bere Island and as far as Glengar-
• Horseback Riding in Donegal: iff. You can play it as safe or as
The wild and wooly coast of rough as you want. See p. 303.
Donegal offers the perfect scenic • Bicycling in the Southwest: The
backdrop for trail riding, and as peninsulas and islands of Cork
varied a terrain—beaches, coun- and Kerry are perfect for cycling,
tryside, mountains—as you’ll find with light traffic and an abun-
anywhere. You’ll be provided with dance of beautiful places to visit.
all you need for a horse-riding Roycroft’s Stores in Skibbereen,
holiday at Markree Castle, a fairy- County Cork, rent bikes that are a
tale place to stay, with an excellent notch above the usual rental
stable. See p. 442. equipment. See the “Sports &
T H E B E S T L U X U RY AC C O M M O DAT I O N S 15
Outdoor Pursuits” sections in Treks include roundtrip trans-

chapters 8 and 9. portation in a 4×4 Land Rover
• Walking the Donegal Coast: The from Dublin into Wicklow
cliff-rimmed headlands of Done- Mountains National Park, for an
gal are the most spectacular in Ire- easy-to-moderate hike of 4 to 5
land, and the best way to explore hours of trail walking. You also get
them is on foot. Among the finest a homemade picnic lunch and the
walks are Slieve League, Glen day is capped off with a drink in a
Head, and Horn Head. See “The local country pub before returning
Donegal Bay Coast” in chapter 13. to Dublin. Later on, you can
• The Great Outdoors: Finally—a download photos from your trek
soup-to-nuts hiking outfitter that from the Dirty Boots website and
does day trips from Dublin! We send them to friends back home.
love Dirty Boots Treks (& 01/ Didn’t pack your hiking gear? No
623-6785; www.dirtybootstreks. worries. Dirty Boots can provide a
com), a brand-new outfit offering trekking backpack with hiking
full-day excursions into the boots, gaiters, and waterproofs—
mountains south of Dublin, all in your size.
because they think of everything.
10 The Best Luxury Accommodations

• Four Seasons (Dublin; & 01/665- Jacuzzis, indoor and outdoor
4000; www.fourseasons.com): If pools, a Hammam, a flotation
money is no object, the Four Sea- room, and all sorts of massage
sons blows Dublin’s other luxury therapies and skin treatments. See
hotels out of the water. Yes, there’s p. 188.
fabulous service, a state-of-the-art • Sheen Falls Lodge (County
health club, and salubrious spa Kerry; & 800/537-8483 in the
treatments. But what really sets it U.S. or 064/41600): This salubri-
apart is what it offers families— ous resort sits beside a natural
child-proof bedrooms, babysitting waterfall on 120 hectares (300
service, and a raft of children’s acres) of lawns and semitropical
activities to keep the kids occu- gardens where the River Sheen
pied while you have a romantic meets the Kenmare Bay estuary.
meal, grab a massage, or just kick Of the graceful public rooms,
back for some quiet meditation don’t miss the wonderful 1,000-
(the better to prepare yourself for volume library, whose green
the bill). See p. 111. leather sofas and floor-to-ceiling
• Brook Lodge (County Wicklow; tomes evoke a fine gentlemen’s
& 0402/36580; www.brooklodge. club. Each guest room overlooks
com): This place just keeps getting the falls (stunning when floodlit at
better and better. Rooms have night) or the bay. See p. 319.
firm king-size four-poster beds, • Ashford Castle (County Mayo;
wood-paneled window seats, deep & 800/346-7007 in the U.S. or
tubs, quality linens, and contem- 092/46003): “Accommodation” is
porary furnishings. The latest an understatement for the degree
addition to this holistic oasis is of luxury and elegance you’ll find
The Wells, a €6-million ($7.5- at this castle on the north shore of
million) spa that boasts Finnish Lough Corrib—just ask Pierce
baths, mud baths, hot tubs, Brosnan, who held his wedding
reception here in 2001. Its mag- want to stay longer than you’d
nificent grounds comprise 140 planned—and by renting one of
hectares (350 acres) of park and the cottages for a week or more,
woods and a golf course. Its two you can make the indulgence
restaurants, the Connaught Room more affordable. See p. 419.
and the George V Room, will • TENsq (County Antrim; & 028/
likely leave you unmotivated to 9024-1001): This funky boutique
leave the grounds. See p. 430. hotel overflows with Asian luxury.
• Delphi Lodge (County Galway; Low-level beds with white com-
& 095/42222): This was once forters and dark headboards lie on
the country hideaway for the cream coir carpet. Armoires, shut-
marquis of Sligo, and now it can ters, and double doors are all
be yours, too. Inside, the empha- inlaid with white opal glass. The
sis is on clean, bright simplicity in overall feel is one of luxurious, ele-
perfect taste; the grounds and gant minimalism. Don’t miss a
environs are among the most meal at Porcelain, the hotel’s
beautiful in Ireland. “Tranquil- excellent, cutting-edge Asian
lity,” “comfort,” and “fishing” are fusion restaurant. See p. 508.
the operative words here. You will
11 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations

• Lorum Old Rectory (County crafts. Kids are able to roam freely,
Carlow; & 0503/75282): Hospi- and there are plenty of tame ani-
tality is one of those intangibles mals to meet and pet—donkeys,
that no one is able to define in ducks, hens, geese, sheep, goats—
advance but which everyone plus a playground for letting off
knows when they’ve found it. A steam. See p. 295.
venerably warm and gracious • Glenally House (County Cork;
home, exquisite meals, a lovely & 024/91623; www.glenally.
setting, and a style that puts its com): At this wonderful Georgian
guests in rare form and humor country house near Youghal,
make this place one of Ireland’s they’ve gotten the details right:
best. See p. 190. crisp, white cotton linens, fresh
• Buggy’s Glencairn Inn (County flowers in every room, fabulous
Waterford; & 058/56232): Ken cooking, roaring log fires. Every-
and Cathleen Buggy have an where is a brilliant juxtaposition
incredible talent for getting the of antique with up-to-the-minute
details right. Their guest rooms style, and it works wonderfully.
are chock-full of covetable auction You’ll be sorry to leave this place.
finds, the beds are like something See p. 296.
out of a fairy tale, and the restau- • Killarney Great Southern
rant is a foodie’s mecca. See p. 235. (County Kerry; & 064/31262;
• Barnabrow Country House www.gshotels.ie): It’s rare that we
(County Cork; & 021/465- recommend a chain hotel as one
2534): This completely original, of “the best,” but this four-star
highly romantic, and incredibly grande dame of Killarney hotels
stylish place to stay lies in the impresses us by even being in this
rolling hills of East Cork. Guest price category. The entire hotel
rooms feature a wonderful collec- got a top-to-toe refurbishment in
tion of African furniture and 2002 and managed to keep prices
T H E B E S T R E S TA U R A N T S 17
down, cementing it as one of the located on the road between New-

best values around. See p. 333. port and Achill Island, you won’t
• Bruckless House (County Done- realize how close it is to the sea
gal; & 073/37071): This mid- until you reach the end of the long
18th-century farmhouse, restored driveway. Rooms are spacious,
with impeccable taste, has many prettily decorated, and very com-
charms, including award-winning fortable, with king-size beds and
gardens and a stable of Con- power showers in the bathrooms.
nemara ponies. Spacious, welcom- At under $100 per night, it’s a
ing, and comfortable, Bruckless super value. See p. 432.
House feels like home (or better) • Ross Castle and House (County
after only a very short time. See Cavan; & 049/854-0237): A
p. 459. tower room in a centrally heated
• Rhu-Gorse (County Donegal; haunted castle—with the longest
& 073/21685): The views of bathtub I’ve ever seen—awaits
Lough Eske from this eminently you at Ross Castle. It won’t take
comfortable modern guesthouse too big a bite out of your wallet,
are not to be believed. If you have either. It might not be elegance,
the makings of a convert to Done- but it is unquestionably memo-
gal, it will happen here. See p. 451. rable. Warm, comfortable Ross
• Glencarne House (County Castle and nearby Ross House are
Leitrim; & 079/67013): This great places to relax beside Lough
attentively restored late-Georgian Sheelin, a noteworthy source of
house on a 40-hectare (100-acre) trout and pike. See p. 492.
working farm offers a rare quality • Slieve Croob Inn (County Down;
of hospitality and charm to mid- & 028/4377-1412): Whether
land lake region visitors. Lovely, you want to drop anchor and set
spacious rooms, chiropractic beds, up a home away from home in a
gracious hosts, and award-winning self-catering cottage or just spend a
breakfasts are yours for surpris- night in a magically stunning land-
ingly affordable rates. Dinners are scape, it doesn’t get much better
a high point, so there’s no need to than this perfectly tasteful hide-
venture out once you’ve settled in. away in the magical Mournes. See
• Rosturk Woods (County Mayo; p. 534.
& 098/36264): Though it’s well
12 The Best Restaurants

• Jacob’s Ladder (County Dublin; • Coast (County Waterford; & 051/
& 01/670-3865): Inspired cook- 393646): For food lovers, this is
ing and a stylish room with views the great address to know about in
over Trinity College make this one Waterford. The dining room is as
of the hippest places in town. chic and understated as you’d
Roche’s forte is updating Irish stal- hope to find in New York or Lon-
warts into sublime signature don, with modern, smart food
dishes. His colcannon—an old that really makes you take notice.
favorite of spuds and cabbage From start to finish, the meal
mashed together with plenty of delivers just the right balance of
butter—is better than anywhere zing and restraint. See p. 237.
else on the island. Service is ter- • Grapefruit Moon (County Cork;
rific and you get great value for & 021/464-6646): Here’s an ele-
your money. See p. 119. gant, pared down little place in
the middle of Ballycotton, an • The Corncrake (County Done-

appealing little village in East gal; & 077/74534): Such a judi-
Cork. Run by members of the cious blend of fresh ingredients
Allen family, of Ballymaloe fame, and culinary imagination is a rare
the key to everything is using only treat. The nettle soup, roast lamb,
the freshest ingredients obtain- and desserts of Noreen Lynch and
able. See p. 295. Brid McCartney warrant a detour
• The Chart House (County Kerry; to the town of Carndonagh,
& 066/915-2255): In this invit- where the living room of a small
ing bistro, everyone comes for row house has been transformed
Laura Boyce’s confident, simple into an extraordinary restaurant.
cooking. Think wonderful com- See p. 471.
fort food with a flair—the kind of • James Street South (County
food you never tire of. And the Antrim: & 028/9043-4310; www.
service is, as the Irish would say, jamesstreetsouth.co.uk): This is
“spot on.” See p. 345. the table of the moment in
• The Wild Geese (County Limer- Belfast. This place is a hit because
ick; & 061/396451): After spend- of the terrific cooking, which
ing years making other people’s delivers modern classics with an
restaurants absolutely fabulous, Irish twist. Whatever you do,
owner-chef David Foley created a don’t pass on a side order of
gem in one of the prettiest towns champ—mashed spuds with
in Ireland. The cooking is com- spring onions laced through it,
plex, flavorful, and refined, yet Irish-style. Portions are generous,
always restrained. See p. 363. the wine list excellent, the crowd
• Cromleach Lodge (County Sligo; rapturous. See p. 511.
& 071/65155): In this lovely • The Narrows (County Down;
country house with panoramic & 028/4272-8148): Who’d have
views of Lough Arrow and envi- thought that the sleepy little
rons, Christy and Moira Tighe waterside hamlet of Portaferry
have created a culinary destination would have a restaurant like this?
with few peers. The menu, Irish in Danny Millar is one of the hottest
focus, changes daily and never young chefs on this island—just
fails to delight. The eight-course ask Food & Wine magazine—and
gourmet menu is the ultimate his complex-yet-earthy cooking is
indulgence. See p. 442. worth going out of your way for.
See p. 518.
13 The Best Pubs

• Abbey Tavern (County Dublin): • Brazen Head (County Dublin):
A short distance from Dublin Nearly qualifying as one of Ire-
center, the Abbey Tavern is the land’s ancient sites, the Brazen
perfect place to recover and refuel Head, commissioned by Charles
after exploring Howth Head, Ire- II, is more than 300 years old, but
land’s Eye, and the attractive fish- its stout is as fresh as it comes.
ing and yachting village of Howth Among its illustrious alumni are
on the northern tip of Dublin Wolfe Tone, Daniel O’Connell,
Bay. The Abbey is known far and and Robert Emmet, who planned
wide for its ballads as well as its the Dublin rising of 1803 under
brew. See p. 164. the Head’s low timbers. In fact, he
THE BEST WEBSITES 19
was hanged not far from here this centuries-old thatched-cot-

when everything went wrong. See tage pub on the weir also draws a
p. 161. perfect pint. This may well be the
• The Long Valley (County Cork): oyster capital of Ireland. It’s 19km
For anyone who knows and loves (12 miles) out of Galway and well
Cork, this is a place of pilgrimage. worth the drive—or the walk, for
One endless, low-slung room with that matter. See p. 402.
a bar running its full length, doors • Smuggler’s Creek (County
taken from an ocean liner, barmen Donegal): This place is worth a
in white butchers’ coats, and a stop if only for its spectacular cliff-
selection of delectable sandwiches. top views of Donegal Bay. Stone
A little slice of heaven. See p. 280. walls, beamed ceilings, open fires,
• McGann’s (County Clare): excellent fare, and the brew that’s
Doolin, a dot of a town on the true are among the charms propri-
Clare Coast, is a magnet for tradi- etor Conor Britton has on tap. See
tional Irish musicians—and is p. 456.
consequently a wonderful spot to • Crown Liquor Saloon (County
hear impromptu sessions of Irish Antrim): This National Trust pub,
music. Gus O’Connor’s, down the across from the Grand Opera
road, is more famous (but also House in Belfast, is a Victorian
thicker with tourists); McGann’s gem. Your mouth will drop open
remains the genuine article with- at its antique publican splendor
out the hype. See p. 382. even before you lift your first pint.
• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (County See p. 512.
Galway): Famed for its seafood,
14 The Best Websites

• Dublin Tourist Office (www.visit the best bucket shops specializing
dublin.com): This site is the most in Ireland, it offers unsold tickets
comprehensive resource for visiting on major airlines at well below
the capital. We especially like the published rates.
new last-minute booking service, • Irish Tourist Board (www.ireland.
which not only lets you find out travel.ie): Bord Failte’s site is both
which hotels and guesthouses have easy to navigate and extremely
immediate availability, but also lets informative. An excellent place to
you in on which hotels are offering start gathering ideas for your trip.
the most amazing discounts. • AA Roadwatch (www.aaroad
• Irelandhotels.com (www.ireland watch.ie): Planning on driving?
hotels.com): What catapults this The route-planning feature of the
accommodations database ahead Irish Automobile Association’s site
of the raft of hotel-finding sites is is brilliantly simple. Plug in a
its “search by facility” function. starting point and destination and
Gotta have a gym? Need to find a you’ll get a detailed, no-brainer set
babysitter? Want an in-room of directions from A to B.
modem dataport for checking • Entertainment Ireland (www.
your e-mail? No problem. Just entertainment.ie): This handy,
plug in your requirements and it exhaustive, searchable database
will spit out a list of hotels and includes just about every event
guesthouses that fit the bill. going on in Ireland, from
• Ireland Consolidated (www. museum exhibitions to rock con-
irelandconsolidated.com): One of certs to hot new plays to nightclub
theme nights. And there are well- • Newshound (www.nuzhound.

written reviews of them all, to com): Hands down, the best sin-
boot. gular resource for keeping up-to-
• Irish Family History Foundation date on Northern Ireland. It’s a
(www.irishroots.net): This brand- searchable library of news articles
new, comprehensive genealogy about developments in the North,
resource contains documentation including a terrific timeline of key
from all 32 counties on the island. events in “the Troubles.” In addi-
Much of the archived information tion, there’s a vast array of articles
is free for your perusal, or you can on the Republic, including travel
avail of researchers. and dining reviews.
2
Planning Your Trip to Ireland
C hances are that you’ve been looking forward to this trip to Ireland for some
time. You’ve probably set aside a significant amount of hard-earned cash, taken
time off from work, school, or other commitments, and now want to make the
most of your holiday. So where do you start?
The aim of this chapter is to provide you with the information you need to
make sound decisions when planning your trip: When should you go? How will
you get there? Should you book a tour or travel independently? What should
you pack? How much will it cost? You’ll find all the necessary resources, along
with addresses, phone numbers, and websites here.
1 The Lay of the Land

The island of Ireland is comprised of the Irish Sea, or the St. George and
the Republic of Ireland and Northern North channels. It may seem strange,
Ireland, with the Atlantic Ocean off its but in the past, the Irish rarely saw
western shores and the Irish Sea to the their offshore waters as a resource. Tra-
east. Well over 3,228km (2,000 miles) ditionally, the Irish disliked eating fish
of ocean separate it from Newfound- and avoided learning to swim. The sea
land, but it is close enough to Great was to be feared. It was perilous to
Britain that, on a clear day, you can cross, and, worse, its waves brought
glimpse the northern Welsh coast. invaders, one after another.
Dublin, the capital city of the Repub- The country’s topography is
lic, shares nearly the same latitude as unusual. Instead of its shores sloping
Edmonton, Alberta, and Bremen, Ger- to the sea and its interior rising to
many, yet distinguishes itself by its mountain peaks, the reverse is the
palm trees and bougainvillea. We can case. Shaped like a saucer, Ireland’s
thank the Gulf Stream, originating in twisted, 3,228km (2,000-mile) coast-
the Caribbean and sending its warm line is, with a few notable exceptions,
currents northward, for Ireland’s mild a breachless bulwark of rugged hills
disposition. Yet both the Atlantic and and low mountains, with sea cliffs to
the Irish Sea have notorious tempers— the west. Its interior is generally a flat
something you’ll want to remember if to rolling limestone plain made up of
you plan to tour the coast. fertile farmland and raised bogs. Ire-
With a landmass of approximately land’s longest and greatest river is the
84,434 sq. km (32,600 sq. miles), the Shannon, flowing 371km (230 miles)
island is roughly the same size as the south and west across the midlands
state of Maine. In rounded figures, it from its source in the Cuileagh Moun-
is at most 484km (300 miles) north to tains of County Cavan to its estuary in
south, and 274km (170 miles) east to County Limerick. The island’s largest
west. No point in Ireland is farther lake, Lough Neagh, occupies 396 sq.
than 113km (70 miles) from one of its km (153 sq. miles) of counties Antrim
encircling waters: the Atlantic Ocean, and Armagh in the north.
22 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO I R E L A N D
Technically speaking, Ireland has are open to the public: Connemara

no mountains, only hills—its highest National Park in County Galway,
peak, Carantuohill in County Kerry, Glenveagh National Park in County
reaches to only about 1,020m (3,400 Donegal, Killarney National Park in
ft.). Most of its heights, whether County Kerry, Wicklow Mountains
mountains or hills, were rounded off National Park in County Wicklow,
and smoothed into graceful slopes Burren National Park in County
tens of thousands of years ago by Clare, and Mayo National Park in
receding glaciers. County Mayo.
One of Europe’s least densely popu- Moreover, many prehistoric bogs
lated countries (third behind Finland and limestone plains have remained
and Sweden), Ireland is commonly virtually untouched for centuries and
described as unspoiled, even the predominance of small-scale
“untouched.” Not so. Ireland was once mixed agriculture has long con-
almost entirely forested but—like tributed to the preservation of an
Scotland—was almost completely unusually wide range of flora and
cleared under British rule to provide fauna in the Irish countryside, with
timber for English shipbuilders. Only the notable and famous exception of
about 1% of the hardwood forests snakes and other reptiles. As it hap-
have survived, and Ireland has pens, Mother Nature, not St. Patrick,
imported virtually all of its wood for deserves credit for Ireland’s “snakeless-
the past 200 years. Relatively recently, ness”—all she gave to the island, her-
there has been a concerted effort to petologically speaking, is one lonely
plant pine forests, and the government type of common lizard, featured sev-
has created 60 forest parks around the eral years ago on a 32p postage stamp.
island. In addition, six national parks
2 The Regions in Brief

Ireland is a land divided many differ- Still very much alive on the maps
ent ways, all of which are significant in and in the minds of the Irish, however,
finding your course through its history, is another, much older, Gaelic set of
along its roads, and amid its people. divisions corresponding to the four
The island is divided into two points of the compass. In this early
major political units—Northern Ire- scheme of things, Ulster is north,
land, which along with Great Britain Leinster is east, Munster is south, and
forms the United Kingdom, and the Connaught is west. The traditional
Republic of Ireland. Of the 32 coun- center of Ireland is the hill of Uisneach
ties in Ireland, 26 are in the Republic. in County Westmeath.
Of the four historic provinces, three Next, there are the counties. This is
and part of the fourth are in the most important because it is how the
Republic. Irish themselves think and talk. These
The line partitioning the land and are the “states” of Ireland, from which
people of Ireland into two separate individuals and families hail, with
entities became an official boundary which citizens identify (as in “He’s a
in 1922, when the Republic became a Corkman married to a Donegal girl”).
free state. For some Irish on both sides Each county is the butt of the next’s
of the border, the division of the island jokes (“A Dublinman, a Meath man,
remains a matter of dispute. But in and a Kildare man walk into a
simplest practical terms, for the pub . . .”), and they all tangle in fierce
tourist, the line between north and athletic contests in the pursuit of
south represents a national border. national titles in Gaelic football and
THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 23
hurling. The island’s 32 counties, thoroughbred country, and the stately

grouped under the four traditional mansions and lush gardens of County
provinces of Ireland cited above, are Wicklow.
listed here: THE SOUTHEAST Boasting the
In Ulster (to the north): Cavan, best (warmest and driest) weather in
Donegal, and Monaghan in the Ireland, the southeast coast is often
Republic; Antrim, Armagh, one alternative to a pub for getting out
Derry, Down, Fermanagh, and of the rain. Besides its weather, the
Tyrone in Northern Ireland. southeast offers sandy beaches, Water-
In Munster (to the south): Clare, ford’s city walls and crystal works,
Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary, Kilkenny and Cahir castles, the Rock
and Waterford. of Cashel, the Irish National Heritage
In Leinster (to the east): Dublin, Park at Ferrycarig, and Ireland’s largest
Carlow, Kildare, Kilkenny, Laois, bird sanctuary, on the Saltee Islands.
Longford, Louth, Meath, Offaly, CORK & ENVIRONS Cork, Ire-
Westmeath, Wexford, and Wick- land’s second city in size, is Dublin’s
low. rival in sport and stout. It feels more
In Connaught (to the west): like a buzzy university town than a
Sligo, Mayo, Galway, Roscom- city, and provides a congenial gateway
mon, and Leitrim. to the south and west of Ireland,
Lastly, in practical terms for the which many consider Ireland’s Oz, the
tourist, Ireland may be divided into ultimate destination. Within arm’s
regions: the southeast, the southwest, reach of Cork are the truly impressive
the west, the northwest, the midlands, Blarney Castle (with its less impressive
and Northern Ireland. These, with stone), the culinary and scenic
several specific cities and their envi- delights of Kinsale, the Drombeg
rons—Dublin, Cork, and Galway— Stone Circle, Sherkin and Clear
make up the principal areas of interest islands, and Mizen Head. Also in this
for Ireland’s visitors and serve to struc- region is the spectacular landscape of
ture the information in this guide. West Cork, one of the truly gorgeous
DUBLIN & ENVIRONS With pockets of Ireland.
40% of the Republic’s population liv- THE SOUTHWEST The moun-
ing within 97km (61 miles) of tains and seascapes of the southwest,
Dublin, the capital is a hotbed for pro- the wettest corner of Ireland, make the
found, high-speed changes that are same point as Seattle: There are more
transforming Ireland into a prosper- important things in life than staying
ous, venturesome European country. dry. The once-remote splendors of
What was old and venerable in the County Kerry have long ceased to be a
city remains so, though it now shares secret, so at least during high season,
space with an all-out 20- and 30- visitors must be prepared to share the
something Irish renaissance. There’s view. Some highlights of this region are
something here for everyone. Within the Dingle Peninsula, the Skellig and
an hour or slightly more north and the Blaskett islands, Staigue Fort, the
south of Dublin—by car or public truly lovely town of Kenmare, Tralee
transportation—lie a handful of and its annual international and folk
engaging coastal towns, the barren festivals, and dazzling views of sea,
beauty of the Wicklow Mountains, shore, and mountains—a new one, it
some of the most important prehis- seems, at every bend in the road. Kil-
toric and early Christian ruins of larney was put on the map by its sur-
Europe in County Meath, Kildare’s rounding natural beauty—serene
lakes, mountain peaks (the tallest in youthful, prospering port and univer-
Ireland), and the ever-present sea— sity city, and the self-acclaimed arts
and is now synonymous with souvenir capital of Ireland with theater, music,
shops and tour buses. The “Ring of dance, and a vibrant street life to
Kerry” (less glamorously known as prove it. There’s nothing sleepy about
N70 and N71), a 178km (110-mile) Galway.
circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula, is the And if that’s not enough reason to
most visited attraction in Ireland next point your compass west, Galway is
to the Book of Kells. That’s both a rec- the gateway to Connemara, one of the
ommendation and a warning. Nearby, most moody, melancholy, magical
Killarney National Park—10,000 landscapes in the world. Must-sees in
hectares (25,000 acres) of mountains, this beautifully desolate part of the
woodlands, waterfalls, and wildlife— world include the Twelve Bens, Kyle-
provides a dramatic haven from tour more Abbey, a 1,600-hectare (4,000-
buses and the din of massed camera acre) national park, and the area’s
shutters clicking away. charming “capital,” the town of Clif-
THE WEST The west of Ireland, den. Offshore lie the legendary Aran
once a land of last resort, today offers Islands—Inishmore, Inishmaan, and
a first taste of Ireland’s beauty and Inisheer—further studies in irresistible
striking diversity for those who fly desolation.
into Shannon Airport. County Limer- THE NORTHWEST In Ireland it’s
ick boasts a number of historic sites, easy to become convinced that isolated
from the Stone Age center at Lough austerity is beautiful, and nowhere is
Gur to an array of impressive castles. this more true than Donegal, with its
They include Knappogue, Bunratty, 323km (200 miles) of drenched, jagged
King John’s, Ashrod, and (just over the coastline that, if you don’t mind the
county line in Galway) Dunguaire. cold, offers some of the finest surfing in
County Clare’s natural offerings, the the world. Inland, the Deeryveagh
210m (700-ft.) Cliffs of Moher and Mountains and Glenveagh National
the lunarlike limestone plateau of the Park offer as much wilderness as can be
Burren, are unforgettable. Farther up found anywhere in Ireland. County
the coast to the north, past Galway, Sligo contains the greatest concentra-
lies County Mayo, home of the stun- tion of megalithic sites in Ireland: the
ningly set town of Westport on Clew stone circles, passage tombs, dolmens,
Bay. Nearby, 750m (2,500 ft.) up, and cairns of, most notably, Carrow-
stands Croagh Patrick, a place of pil- more, Knocknarea, and Carrowkeel.
grimage for centuries. Another, more This region was also inspiration for
recent pilgrimage site is the shrine of much of the poetry of W. B. Yeats, the
Knock, with its massive basilica. Also poet laureate of Sligo. Nearby, Leitrim’s
nearby, off the Connemara and south- unspoiled lakes are a favorite retreat,
ern Mayo coasts, is a string of particularly for anglers.
islands—including Inishbofin, Inish- THE MIDLANDS The lush center
turk, and Clare—that are well worth of Ireland, bisected by the mighty but
the crossing. Achill Island, Ireland’s lazy Shannon, is a land of pastures,
largest, is a favored vacation spot and rivers, lakes, woods, and gentle moun-
is accessible by car. tain slopes, an antidote to the barren
GALWAY & ENVIRONS Galway beauty of Connemara and a retreat, in
just may be the perfect small city. It is high season, from the throngs of
without a doubt the most vibrant, col- tourists who crowd the coasts. The
orful, buzzy place in Ireland—a midlands have no cities, and their
V I S I TO R I N F O R M AT I O N 25
towns are not their attractions; the (particularly between Ballycastle and
shores and waters of the Shannon and Cushendum), the 40,000 black basalt
Lough Derg and of their many lesser columns of the Giant’s Causeway, and
cousins provide much of the lure. the luring nine Glens of Antrim are
Outdoor pursuits—cycling, boating, perhaps the greatest draw for sight-
fishing, trekking, and hunting—are seers. Written in a minor key is the
the heart of the matter here. The mid- loveliness of the Fermanagh Lake Dis-
lands also offer visits to some remark- trict to the south, while County Down
able sites, such as Birr Castle and its with its Mourne Mountains marks the
splendid gardens, and Clonmacnois, sunniest and driest spot in the North.
now the stunning ruins of a famous The city walls of Derry, Carrickfergus
Irish monastic center. Castle, Belfast’s “Golden Mile,” and
NORTHERN IRELAND Across Navan Fort (or Emain Macha, the
the border, in a corner of both Ireland royal center of Ulster for 800 years) are
and the United Kingdom, Northern just a sampling of what the North has
Ireland’s six counties are well worth to offer.
exploring. The stunning Antrim coast
3 Visitor Information
To get your planning under way, con- Toronto, ON M4W 3E2 (& 800/
tact the following offices of the Irish 576-8174 or 416/925-6368;
Tourist Board and the Northern Ire- fax 416/925-6033; www.discover
land Tourist Board. They are eager to northernireland.com).
answer your questions and have bags
of genuinely helpful information, IN THE UNITED KINGDOM
mostly free of charge. • Irish Tourist Board, 150 New
After you’ve perused the brochures, Bond St., London W1Y 0AQ
surf the Web to scoop up even more (& 020/7493-3201; fax 020/
information. 7493-9065; www.tourismireland.
com).
IN THE UNITED STATES • Northern Ireland Tourist Board,
• Irish Tourist Board, 345 Park 24 Haymarket, London SW1
Ave., New York, NY 10154 4DG (& 020/7766-9920; fax
(& 800/223-6470 in the U.S. or 020/7766-9929; www.discover
212/418-0800; fax 212/371-9052; northernireland.com).
www.tourismireland.com).
• Northern Ireland Tourist Board, IN AUSTRALIA
551 Fifth Ave., Suite 701, New • All Ireland Tourism (Republic
York, NY 10176 (& 800/326 and Northern Ireland), 36 Car-
0036 in the U.S. or 212/922- rington St., 5th Level, Sydney,
0101; fax 212/922-0099; www. NSW 2000 (& 02/9299-6177;
discovernorthernireland.com). fax 02/9299-6323; www.tourism
ireland.com).
IN CANADA
• Irish Tourist Board, 2 Bloor St. IN NEW ZEALAND
W., Suite 1501, Toronto, ON • Irish Tourist Board, Dingwall
M4W 3E2 (& 800/223-6470; Building, 2nd Floor, 87 Queen
fax 416/929-6783; www.tourism St., Auckland (& 0064-9/379-
ireland.com). 8720; fax 0064-9/302-2420;
• Northern Ireland Tourist Board, www.tourismireland.com).
2 Bloor St. W., Suite 1501,
IN IRELAND IN NORTHERN IRELAND

• Irish Tourist Board/Bord Fáilte, • Irish Tourist Board, 53 Castle St.,
Baggot Street Bridge, Dublin 2 Belfast BT1 1GH (& 028/9032-
(& 1850-230330; fax 01/602- 7888; fax 028/9024-0201).
4100; www.ireland.travel.ie). • Northern Ireland Tourist Board,
• Northern Ireland Tourist Board, St. Anne’s Court, 59 North St.,
16 Nassau St., Dublin 2 (& 01/ Belfast BT1 1NB (& 028/9023-
679-1977; fax 01/679-1863; 1221; fax 028/9024-0960; www.
www.discovernorthernireland. discovernorthernireland.com).
com).
4 Entry Requirements & Customs

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS spirits, 45 liters of wine, and 55 liters
For citizens of the United States, of beer.
Canada, Australia, and New Zealand The second category pertains pri-
entering the Republic of Ireland for a marily to overseas visitors, such as
stay of up to 3 months, no visa is nec- U.S. and Canadian citizens. The limit
essary, but a valid passport is required. on duty-free and VAT-free items that
Citizens of the United Kingdom, may be brought into the E.U. for per-
when traveling on flights originating sonal use: 200 cigarettes, 1 liter of
in Britain, do not need to show pass- liquor, 2 liters of wine, and other
ports to enter Ireland (though they do goods (including beer) not exceeding
need some form of identification). the value of €150 ($181) per adult.
Nationals of the United Kingdom and There are no restrictions on bringing
colonies who were not born in Great currency into Ireland.
Britain or Northern Ireland must have Regardless of whether you arrive in
a valid passport or national identity the Republic or Northern Ireland, the
document. customs system is the same, operating
For entry into Northern Ireland, on a Green, Red, and Blue Channel
the same conditions apply. format. If you’re coming from the
United States or another non-E.U.
CUSTOMS country, use the Green Channel if you
W H AT YO U C A N B R I N G don’t exceed the duty-free allowances
TO IRELAND and the Red Channel if you have extra
Like all the European Union (E.U.) goods to declare. If you are like most
member states, Ireland and Northern visitors, bringing in only your own
Ireland Customs are mainly concerned clothes and personal effects, use the
with two categories of goods: (1) items Green Channel. The Blue Channel is
bought duty-paid and value-added- exclusively for use by passengers enter-
tax-paid (VAT-paid) in other E.U. ing Ireland from other E.U. countries.
countries and (2) goods bought under In addition to your luggage, you
duty-free and VAT-free allowances at may bring in sports equipment for
duty-free shops. your own recreational use or electronic
The first case normally applies to equipment for your own business or
Irish citizens, visitors from Britain, professional use while in Ireland. Pro-
and travelers from other E.U. coun- hibited goods include firearms,
tries. If the goods are for personal use, ammunition, and explosives; nar-
you won’t need to pay additional duty cotics; meat, poultry, plants, and their
or VAT. The limits for goods in this byproducts; and domestic animals
category are 800 cigarettes, 10 liters of from outside the United Kingdom.
MONEY 27
W H AT YO U C A N B R I N G goods bought in the EC for your own

HOME use are 800 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 1
Onboard the flight back to the United kilogram smoking tobacco, 10 liters of
States, you’ll be given a Customs dec- spirits, 90 liters of wine (of which not
laration to fill out. Be sure to pack the more than 60 liters can be sparkling
goods you’ll declare separately and wine), and 110 liters of beer. For more
have your sales receipts handy. information, contact HM Customs &
Returning U.S. citizens who have Excise, Passenger Enquiry Point, 2nd
been away for 48 hours or more are Floor Wayfarer House, Great South
allowed to bring back, once every 30 West Road, Feltham, Middlesex
days, $800 worth of merchandise TW14 8NP (& 020/8910-3744 or
duty-free, as long as you bring it with 44/181-910-3744 from outside the
you as accompanied baggage. You’ll be U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk).
charged a flat rate of 5% duty on the For a clear summary of Canadian
next $1,000 worth of purchases. On rules, write for the booklet I Declare,
gifts, the duty-free limit is $100. You issued by Revenue Canada, 2265 St.
cannot bring fresh foodstuffs into the Laurent Blvd., Ottawa K1G 4KE
United States; tinned foods are (& 506/636-5064; www.ccra-adrc.
allowed. For more information, write gc.ca).
the U.S. Customs Service, 1300 Australians can obtain a helpful
Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 54D, brochure, Know Before You Go, avail-
Washington, DC 20229, to request able from Australian consulates or Cus-
the free pamphlet Know Before You Go. toms offices. For more information,
It’s also available on the Web at contact Australian Customs Serv-
www.customs.gov. ices, GPO Box 8, Sydney NSW 2001
Citizens of the United Kingdom (& 02/9213-2000; www.customs.
who are returning from a European gov.au).
Community (EC) country will go New Zealand citizens should
through a separate Customs Exit (the obtain a free pamphlet available at
Blue Channel) for EC travelers. In New Zealand consulates and Customs
essence, there is no limit on what you offices: New Zealand Customs Guide
can import from an EC country, as for Travelers, Notice no. 4. For more
long as the items are for personal use. information, contact New Zealand
But be aware that if you exceed the Customs, 50 Anzac Ave., P.O. Box
government’s guidance levels, you may 29, Auckland (& 09/359-6655;
be asked to prove that the goods are www.customs.govt.nz).
for your own use. Guidance levels on
5 Money
CASH/CURRENCY 2¢, and 1¢. It may seem awkward,
The Republic of Ireland has adopted particularly for Americans, but the
the single European currency known terms “euro” and “cent” are never plu-
as the euro. In this volume, the € sign ralized. That is, €50.25 is spoken as
symbolizes the euro. In converting “50 euro, 25 cent.”
prices to U.S. dollars, we used the rate So far, the United Kingdom has
€1 = $1.20. resisted the euro and retained its tradi-
Euro notes come in denominations tional currency, the pound sterling,
of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200, which continues to trade independ-
and €500. The euro is divided into ently on the world currency market.
100 cents; coins come in denomina- Northern Ireland, as part of the
tions of €2, €1, 50¢, 20¢, 10¢, 5¢, United Kingdom, uses the British
pound. In this volume, the £ sign back of this book, for a handy list of
symbolizes the British pound. The useful phone numbers.
British pound is not legal tender in the
Republic, and neither the Irish punt ATMS
nor the euro is legal tender in the Repeat this until it sticks: The best
North. In converting prices for this way to get cash is with your bank card
guide, we used the rate £1 = $1.83. in an automated teller machine
The British currency used in North- (ATM). Any town large enough to
ern Ireland has notes in denominations have a bank branch (all but the small-
of £5, £10, £20, £50, and £100. Coins est villages) will have an ATM linked
are issued in £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, to a network that includes your home
and 1p denominations. bank. Cirrus (& 800/424-7787;
Note: The values of the euro and www.mastercard.com) and PLUS
the British pound fluctuate daily, so it (& 800/843-7587 in the U.S. or
is best to begin checking exchange 1800/558002 toll-free in Ireland;
rates well in advance of your visit to www.visa.com) are the two most pop-
gain a sense of their recent range. ular networks. Using ATMs gets you
the best possible exchange rate because
CREDIT CARDS Cirrus and PLUS let you take advan-
Leading international credit cards tage of their high-volume wholesale
such as Visa, MasterCard (also known exchange rate, which leaves all other
as Access or Eurocard), American players—traveler’s checks, exchange
Express, and Diners Club are readily bureaus, and credit cards—in the
accepted throughout all 32 counties. dust. Use the toll-free numbers to
Most establishments display on their locate ATMs in your destination.
windows the logos of the credit cards Most Republic and Northern Ire-
they accept. Note that MasterCard land ATMs accept PINs of four to six
and Visa are far more widely accepted digits. One hiccup, however, is that
than American Express, and Diners they often don’t have alphanumeric
Club is accepted at only very upscale keypads. So to withdraw cash using
restaurants and hotels. your bank card, your PIN must be
However handy it is to make pur- made up of just numbers. If your PIN
chases with credit, note that many features letters (STAN37), use a tele-
banks add a “currency conversion fee” phone dial to figure out the numeric
(sometimes as high as 3%) to all trans- equivalents (or better yet, memorize it
actions made in a foreign currency; before you get to Ireland).
check with your card’s issuer before
you leave to avoid a nasty surprise TRAVELER’S CHECKS
when you get your bill. If you lose Traveler’s checks are something of an
your credit card or have any problems anachronism from the days before the
with purchases, see Appendix B, in the ATM made cash accessible at any
Tips Avoiding Bank Fees

Remember that each time you withdraw cash from an ATM, your bank will
likely slap you with a fee of between $4 and $8 (check how much your
bank charges before leaving home). Rather than taking out small denom-
inations again and again, it makes sense to take out larger amounts every
2 to 3 days. Not only will this keep you from racking up fees, but you
won’t waste time in lines waiting for a free machine.
W H E N TO G O 29
time, but some travelers still like the at 61–63 S. William St. in Dublin
perceived security of the tried-and- (& 01/617-5555). Amex gold or
true. You can get them at almost any platinum cardholders can avoid pay-
bank for a small service charge. Amer- ing the fee by ordering over the tele-
ican Express traveler’s checks are also phone; platinum cardholders can also
available over the phone by calling purchase checks fee-free in person at
& 800/221-7282 or 800/721-9768, Amex Travel Service locations. Ameri-
or you can purchase checks online at can Automobile Association members
www.americanexpress.com. In Ire- can obtain checks with no fee at most
land, American Express has an office AAA offices.
6 When to Go
CLIMATE As it happens, 2002 was the wettest
To get a feel for just how hilarious year on record in Ireland since its
Irish weather is, just tune into one of national weather agency started keep-
the TV or radio weather forecasts. ing track of rainfall. On the upside, it
Nowhere else will you hear the phrase, can only get drier from here on in.
“Today we can expect showers, fol- Think of it this way: The Irish climate
lowed by periods of rain.” Categoriz- is responsible for those 40 shades of
ing rain is an art form in Ireland. First green you’ll encounter on your travels.
you have “soft rain,” which is like And there’s nothing like coming across
being spritzed by a spray bottle. Then a rainbow over the peat fields of Con-
you have “spitting,” just a few random nemara or the Wicklow Gap.
drops that don’t even leave the ground In Ireland the thermometers, grate-
wet. Next come “showers,” brief inter- fully, are a lot less busy than the
vals of rain that last only a few min- barometers. Temperatures are mild
utes—often while the sun is shining. and fluctuate within what any New
The Irish don’t consider it to be true Englander would call “spring.” The
rain unless it’s steady and ongoing generally coldest months, January and
enough to warrant an umbrella. In a February, bring frosts but seldom
downpour, you may hear someone snow, and the warmest months, July
complain that it’s “lashing,” “bucket- and August, rarely become truly hot.
ing,” or “pelting.” Remember, the Irish consider any
The only thing consistent about temperature over 68°F (20°C) to be
Irish weather is its changeability, with “roasting,” and below 34°F (1°C) as
the best of times and the worst of truly “freezing.” Both are unusual, but
times often only hours, or minutes, funny things happen. On occasion,
apart. There’s a saying that in Ireland summer days can get positively
you get “all four seasons in one day,” scorching, and last winter Ireland got
which means you could start your day hit with several harsh cold snaps that
in heavenly, summery sunshine, get brought not only snow but gale-force
caught in a brief springlike downpour winds of 113kmph (70 mph). For a
by lunchtime, go through an autum- complete online guide to Irish
nal, dry but windy spell in midafter- weather, including year-round aver-
noon, and need a sweater as a wintry ages, daily updates, and a weather cam
evening chill sets in. In other words, of Dublin’s city center, consult www.
when packing, think layers for any ireland.com/weather.
time of year.
Average Monthly Temperatures in Dublin

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
Temp (°F) 36–46 37–48 37–49 38–52 42–57 46–62 51–66 50–65 48–62 44–56 39–49 38–47
Temp (°C) 2–8 3–9 3–9 3–11 6–14 8–17 11–19 10–18 9–17 7–13 4–9 3–8
HIGH & LOW SEASONS Easter Monday (variable), May Day

Apart from climatic considerations, (May 1), first Mondays in June and
there’s the matter of cost and crowds. August (Summer Bank Holidays), last
How much these go up and down in Monday in October (Autumn Bank
the course of the year depends on Holiday), Christmas (Dec 25), and
where you’re headed. On the one St. Stephen’s Day (Dec 26). Good
hand, there’s Dublin, which gets Friday (the Fri before Easter) is
tourists year-round and doesn’t really mostly observed, but not statutory.
have a low season. It’s always fairly In the North, the schedule of holi-
crowded, and hotel prices never truly days is the same as in the Republic,
plummet. On the other hand, places with some exceptions: the North’s
such as Inishowen or Cape Clear are Summer Bank Holidays fall on the last
very affected by seasonal tourism fluc- Mondays of May and August; the Bat-
tuations. tle of the Boyne is celebrated on
A few generalizations, however, Orangeman’s Day (July 12); and Box-
might be helpful. ing Day (Dec 26) follows Christmas.
In summer, transatlantic airfares, In both Ireland and Northern Ire-
car-rental rates, and hotel prices are at land, holidays that fall on weekends
their highest and crowds at their most are celebrated the following Monday.
intense. But the days are brilliantly
long (6am sunrises and 10pm sun- IRELAND CALENDAR
sets), the weather is warmest, and
every sightseeing attraction and B&B OF EVENTS
This sampling of events is drawn from 2004
is open. schedules. Be sure to consult the calendars
In winter you can get rock-bottom available from the tourist boards of Ireland
prices on airfare, especially if you book and of Northern Ireland for 2005; they’re usu-
a package through a good travel agent ally released in January. The most up-to-date
or Aer Lingus (see “Getting There,” listings of events can be found at www.
later in this chapter). If your destina- ireland.travel.ie and www.entertainment.
ie for Ireland, and www.eventguide.ie and
tion is Dublin, the weather will not www.visitdublin.com for Dublin.
likely be a defining factor, since so
much of Dublin’s lure dwells indoors. January
But elsewhere in Ireland, winter Funderland. Royal Dublin Society,
means that you’ll be more limited in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. An annual
your lodging and sightseeing choices. indoor funfair, complete with
All things considered, best of all are white-knuckle rides, carnival stalls,
the hedge months—April, May, and and family entertainment (& 061/
mid-September through October— 419988; www.funfair.ie). Decem-
when you’re most likely to get simul- ber 26 to January 13.
taneously lucky with weather, crowds, January Sales. The best blowout
and prices. sale in Ireland lasts all month long,
with deep savings of up to 70% at
HOLIDAYS practically every department store,
The Republic observes the following shop, and boutique in Ireland and
national holidays: New Year’s Day Northern Ireland.
(Jan 1), St. Patrick’s Day (Mar 17),
IRELAND CALENDAR OF EVENTS 31
Yeats Winter School. Sligo Park with marching bands, drill teams,
Hotel, Sligo Town. This event offers floats, and delegations from around
a weekend of relaxation, lectures, the world (& 01/676-3205; fax
and a tour of Yeats Country (& 071/ 01/676-3208; www.stpatricksday.
42693; fax 071/42780; www.yeats- ie). March 15 to 18.
sligo.com). January 23 to 25. St. Patrick’s Day Parades. In cele-
February bration of Ireland’s patron saint. All
Six Nations Rugby Tournament. over Ireland, north and south.
Lansdowne Road, Ballsbridge, March 17.
County Dublin. This annual inter- Samhlaíocht Chiarrai/Kerry Arts
national tourney features Ireland, Festival. A spring festival of music,
England, Scotland, Wales, France, drama, film, dance, literature, craft,
and Italy. It’s a brilliant atmosphere, and visual art (& 066/712-9934;
be it at Lansdowne Road or a neigh- fax 066/712-0934; samhlaiocht@
borhood pub. Contact Irish Rugby indigo.ie). March 27 to 31.
Football Union, 62 Lansdowne
April
Rd., Dublin 4 (& 01/668-4601;
fax 01/660-5640). Alternate Satur- 32nd Pan Celtic Festival. Kilkenny,
days, early February to April. County Kilkenny. For 5 days the
wider Celtic family (including Corn-
Antiques and Collectibles Fair. wall, Isle of Man, Scotland, Wales,
Newman House, 85 St. Stephen’s and Brittany) unites for culture,
Green, Dublin 2. About 60 dealers song, dance, sports, and parades
sell small pieces and collectors’ items with marching bands and pipers.
(&/fax 01/670-8295; antiquesfairs Lots of fringe events, from nature
[email protected]). Four consecu- walks to poetry readings (& 056/
tive Sundays in February. 51500; [email protected]).
All Ireland Dancing Champi- March 31 to April 5.
onships. West County Hotel, World Irish Dancing Champi-
Ennis, County Clare. Winners here onships. Ennis, County Clare. The
automatically go on to the World premier international competition
Dancing Championship (& 01/ in Irish dancing, it features more
475-2220; fax 01/475-1053; cirg@ than 4,000 contenders from as far
tinet.ie). February 1 to 7. as New Zealand (& 01/475-2220;
March fax 01/475-1053; [email protected]).
Bridge House Irish Festival. Bridge April 4 to 12.
House Hotel and Leisure Centre, Dublin Film Festival. Irish Film
Tullamore, County Offaly. Ireland’s Centre, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, and
biggest indoor festival celebrates various cinemas in Dublin. More
good Irish food, song, and dance. than 100 films are featured, with
There’s free entertainment featuring screenings of the best in Irish and
national and international acts world cinema, plus seminars and
(& 506/22000; fax 506/25690; lectures on filmmaking (& 01/
www.bridgehouse.com). March 8 679-2937; fax 01/679-2939). April
to 16. 18 to 27.
St. Patrick’s Dublin Festival. It’s a May
massive 4-day fest that’s open, free, County Wicklow Gardens Festi-
and accessible to everyone. Street val. In the county known as the
theater, carnival acts, sports, music, “garden of Ireland,” stately heritage
fireworks, and other festivities cul- properties and gardens open their
minate in Ireland’s grandest parade, gates to visitors on selected dates.
Contact Wicklow County Tourism all-ages cultural program, featuring

(& 0404/66058; fax 0404/66057; a combination of day and night per-
www.wicklow.ie). Entire month of formances in dance, film, theater,
May. music, and visual arts. Beginning in
Belfast City Marathon. An epic, May, the Diversions program
42km (26-mile) race of 6,000 inter- includes live music, open-air films,
national runners through the and a circus (& 01/677-2255; fax
city. Start and finish at Maysfield 01/677-2525; www.temple-bar.ie).
Leisure Centre (& 028/9027- June to August.
0345). May 4. AIB Music Festival in Great Irish
May Day Races. Down Royal Houses. Various venues through-
Racecourse, Maze, Lisburn, County out counties Dublin, Wicklow, and
Antrim. One of the major events on Kildare. This 10-day festival of clas-
the horse-racing calendar (& 028/ sical music performed by leading
9262-1256; www.downroyal.com). Irish and world-renowned interna-
May 5. tional artists is intimately set in the
receiving rooms of stately buildings
Murphy’s International Mussel and mansions (& 01/278-1528;
Fair. Bantry, County Cork. Free fax 01/278-1529). June 5 to 15.
mussels are served in all bars and
restaurants, and there are free, Bloomsday Festival. Various ven-
open-air concerts at Wolfe Tone ues in Dublin. This unique day of
Square (& 027/50360; fax 027/ festivity commemorates 24 hours in
50438; www.bantrymusselfair.ie). the life of Leopold Bloom, the cen-
May 5 to 8. tral character of James Joyce’s
Ulysses. Every aspect of the city,
Waterford Maritime Festival. including the menus at restaurants
Quays of Waterford City. The high- and pubs, seeks to duplicate the
light of this 4-day celebration over aromas, sights, sounds, and tastes of
June bank holiday weekend is an Dublin on June 16, 1904. Special
international round-trip powerboat ceremonies are held at the James
race from Waterford to Swansea, Joyce Tower and Museum, and
Wales. Other events include close- there are guided walks of Joycean
to-shore kayak races, open-air con- sights. Contact the James Joyce
certs, and family entertainment. Centre, 35 N. Great George’s St.,
Representatives from Irish, British, Dublin 1 (& 01/878-8547; fax 01/
French, and Dutch naval fleets in 878-8488; www.jamesjoyce.ie).
Waterford Harbor (& 051/ June 12 to 16.
304114). May 29 to June 1.
Cork Midsummer Arts Festival.
June
Emmet Place, Cork City. The pro-
Murphy’s Cat Laughs Comedy gram includes musical perform-
Festival. Various venues in ances, traditional Irish ceili bands,
Kilkenny Town. An international and always has a very strong literary
festival of stand-up comedy whose content. Bonfire nights are particu-
past performers include North larly popular (& 021/4550946; fax
America’s Bill Murray, George 021/427-5874; www.corkfestival.
Wendt, and Emo Phillips, and Ire- ie). June 14 to 25.
land’s Ardal O’Hanlon (& 056/
63416; fax 056/63679; www.the Killarney SummerFest. This
catlaughs.com). June 3 to 7. (mainly rock) music festival gets
bigger every year and is now one of
Diversions Temple Bar. Dublin 2. the highlights of the Irish summer
This is an all-free, all-outdoor,
IRELAND CALENDAR OF EVENTS 33
of music. Past performers have 5 more days of racing and merri-

included Bryan Adams and Sheryl ment, music, and song (& 091/
Crow. Fringe events include street 566577; fax 091/562655; www.
entertainment and art workshops. galwayartsfestival.ie). Festival July
Fitzgerald Stadium, Killarney, 12 to 25; Races July 26 to 30.
County Kerry. (www.ticketmaster. Lughnasa Fair. Carrickfergus Cas-
ie). June 24 to July 4. tle, County Antrim. A spectacular
Budweiser Irish Derby. The Cur- revival with a 12th-century Nor-
ragh, County Kildare. It’s one of the man castle and its grounds, this
richest horse races in Europe, and event features people in period cos-
widely accepted as the definitive tumes, medieval games, traditional
European middle-distance classic. food, entertainment, and crafts
This is Ireland’s version of the Ken- (& 028/4336-6455). July 27.
tucky Derby or Royal Ascot and is a August
fashionable gathering (Hint: jackets Kerrygold Horse Show. RDS
for men, hats for ladies) of racing Showgrounds, Ballsbridge, Dublin
fans from all over the world (& 045/ 4. This is the most important
441205; fax 045/441442). Note: equestrian and social event on the
It’s a good idea to prebook tickets at Irish national calendar. Aside from
www.curragh.ie. June 26 to 30. the dressage and jumping competi-
July tions each day, highlights include a
Battle of the Boyne Commemora- fashionable ladies’ day (don’t forget
tion. Belfast and other cities. This your hat!), formal hunt balls each
annual event, often called Orange- evening, and the awarding of the
man’s Day, recalls the historic battle Aga Khan Trophy and the Nation’s
between two 17th-century kings. Cup (& 01/668-0866; fax 01/660-
It’s a national day of parades and 4014; www.rds.ie). August 6 to 10.
celebration by Protestants all over Kilkenny Arts Festival. Kilkenny
Northern Ireland. Contact the Town. This weeklong event has it
House of Orange, 65 Dublin Rd., all, from classical and traditional
Belfast BT2 7HE (& 028/9032- music to plays, one-person shows,
2801). July 12. readings, films, poetry, and visual
Oxegen. Punchestown Racecourse, arts exhibitions (& 056/52175; fax
County Kildare. This (mainly rock) 056/51704; www.kilkennyarts.ie).
music festival is now one of August 6 to 15.
Europe’s premier summer music Puck Fair. Killorglin, County
fests, with nearly 100 acts playing Kerry. One of Ireland’s oldest festi-
on five stages over the duration of a vals. Each year the residents of this
weekend. Previous headliners have tiny Ring of Kerry town capture a
included ColdPlay and Counting wild goat and enthrone it as “king”
Crows (www.ticketmaster.ie). July over 3 days of merrymaking that
11 and 12. include open-air concerts, tradi-
Galway Arts Festival and Races. tional horse fairs, parades, and fire-
Galway City and Racecourse. This works (&/fax 066/976-2366; www.
2-week fest is a shining star on the puckfair.ie). August 10 to 12.
Irish arts scene, featuring interna- Rose of Tralee International Festi-
tional theater, big-top concerts, lit- val. Tralee, County Kerry. A gala-
erary evenings, street shows, arts, like atmosphere prevails at this
parades, music, and more. The 5-day event, with a full program
famous Galway Races follow, with of concerts, street entertainment,
horse races, and a beauty and talent fair, with hundreds of dealers from
pageant leading up to the televised all over the island (& 01/285-
selection of the “Rose of Tralee” 9294). September 22 to 26.
(& 066/712-1322; fax 066/22654; Galway International Oyster Fes-
www.roseoftralee.ie). August 20 tival. Galway and environs. Find
to 24. out why London’s Sunday Times put
Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Fes- it on its “Top 12 World’s Best Event
tival. Lisdoonvarna, County Clare. List.” First held in 1954, this event
Still the biggest and best singles’ attracts oyster aficionados from all
event after all these years. A tradi- over the globe. Highlights include
tional “bachelor” festival carries on the World Oyster-Opening Cham-
in the lovely spa town of Lisdoon- pionship, a golf tournament, a
varna, with lots of wonderful music yacht race, an art exhibition, a gala
and dance (& 065/7074005; fax banquet, traditional music and
065/7074406; www.matchmaker song, and lots of oyster eating
ireland.com). August 29 to Septem- (& 091/522066; fax 091/527282;
ber 5. www.galwayoysterfest.com). Sep-
September tember 23 to 26.
National Heritage Week. More October
than 400 events are held through- Dublin Theatre Festival. Theaters
out the country—walks, lectures, throughout Dublin. Europe’s largest
exhibitions, music recitals, and theater-dedicated event showcases
more (& 01/647-2455; www. new plays by every major Irish com-
heritageireland.ie). September 7 pany (including the Abbey and the
to 14. Gate) and presents a range of pro-
All-Ireland Hurling and Gaelic ductions from abroad (& 01/677-
Football Finals. Croke Park, 8439; fax 01/679-7709; www.iftn.
Dublin 3. The finals of Ireland’s ie/diary/index.htm). September 30
most beloved sports, hurling and to October 27.
Gaelic football, are Ireland’s equiva- Kinsale International Gourmet
lent of the Super Bowl. If you can’t Festival. Kinsale, County Cork.
be at Croke Park, experience this in The foodie capital of Ireland hosts
the full bonhomie of a pub. Tickets this well-respected annual fest, fea-
can be obtained through Ticket- turing special menus in all the
master at www.ticketmaster.ie restaurants and plenty of star chefs
(& 01/836-3222; fax 01/836- in town from abroad (& 021/477-
420). Hurling Final September 5; 4026; fax 021/477-4438). October
Gaelic Football Final September 19. 9 to 12.
Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann. Lis- Murphy’s Cork International
towel, County Kerry. Ireland’s pre- Film Festival. Cinemas throughout
mier summer festival of traditional Cork. Ireland’s oldest and biggest
music, with competitions held to film festival offers a plethora of
select the all-Ireland champions in international features, documen-
all categories of instruments and taries, short films, and special pro-
singing (& 01/280-0295; fax 01/ grams (& 021/427-1711; fax 021/
280-3759; www.comhaltas.com). 427-5945; www.corkfilmfest.org).
September 22 to 26. October 10 to 17.
Irish Antique Dealers’ Fair. RDS Baboró International Arts Festi-
Showgrounds, Ballsbridge, Dublin val for Children. Galway. A bril-
4. Ireland’s premier annual antiques liant, fun-filled, educational festival
H E A LT H & I N S U R A N C E 35
geared to kids 3 to 12 years old, and film events in and around

with age-appropriate theater, music, Queens University (& 028/9066-
dance, museum exhibitions, and lit- 7687; fax 028/9066-5577; www.
erary events (& 091/509705; fax belfastfestival.com). There’s also a
091/562655; www.baboro.ie). concurrent fringe festival in the
October 11 to 17. Cathedral Quarter (& 028/9027-
Wexford Festival Opera. Theatre 0466). October 22 to November 7.
Royal, Wexford City. Simply like Dublin City Marathon. On the last
no other (stuffy) opera festival, this Monday in October, more than
one positively brims over with sheer 5,000 runners from both sides of the
good fun. For more than 50 years, Atlantic and the Irish Sea participate
this event has been highly in this popular run through the
acclaimed for its productions of streets of the capital (& 01/626-
lesser-known 18th- and 19th-cen- 3746; www.dublincitymarathon.ie).
tury operatic masterpieces, plus October 25.
classical music concerts, recitals, December
and more. If for nothing else, come Limerick Christmas Racing Festi-
for the jubilant atmosphere in this val. Limerick Racecourse, Green-
pretty coastal town (& 053/22400; park, Limerick. This festival
fax 053/424289; www.wexford features 3 days of holiday horse rac-
opera.com). October 14 to 31. ing (& 061/229377; fax 061/
Guinness Cork Jazz Festival. Cork 227644). December 26 to 28.
City. Ireland’s number-two city Woodford Mummers Feile.
stages a first-rate festival of jazz, with Woodford, County Galway. This
an international lineup of live acts festival offers traditional music,
playing in hotels, concert halls, and song, dance, and mime performed
pubs (meanwhile, not to be out- by mummers in period costume
done, nearby Kinsale plays host to its (& 0509/49248). December 26
own, concurrent fringe jazz festival) and 27.
(& 021/427-8979; fax 021/427-
0463; www.corkjazzfestival.com). Leopardstown National Hunt Fes-
October 22 to 25. tival. Leopardstown Racecourse,
Foxrock, Dublin 18. This festival
Belfast Festival at Queens. Queens offers 3 days of winter racing for
University, Belfast. The island’s thoroughbreds (& 01/289-2888;
largest arts festival attracts enor- fax 01/289-2634; www.leopards
mous crowds each year for its stellar town.com). December 26 to 29.
program of drama, opera, music,
7 Health & Insurance

STAYING HEALTHY If you have a condition that could
As a rule, no health documents or vac- require emergency care but might not
cinations are required to enter Ireland be readily recognizable, consider join-
or Northern Ireland from the United ing MedicAlert (& 800/432-5378;
States, Canada, the United Kingdom, www.medicalert.org). It provides ID
Australia, New Zealand, or most other tags, cards, and a 24-hour emergency
countries. If, however, you have vis- information hot line. If you are dia-
ited areas in the previous 14 days betic, the American Diabetes Associ-
where a contagious disease is preva- ation (& 800/342-2383; www.
lent, proof of immunization may be diabetes.org) offers plenty of good
required. advice for traveling with diabetes.
If you require the services of a T R I P - C A N C E L L AT I O N

physician, dentist, or other health pro- INSURANCE (TCI)
fessional during your stay in Ireland, There are three major types of trip-
your accommodations host may be in cancellation insurance—one, in the
the best position to recommend some- event that you prepay a cruise or tour
one local. Otherwise, contact the con- that gets canceled and you can’t get
sulate of your home country (see your money back; a second when you
“Fast Facts: Ireland,” later in this or someone in your family gets sick or
chapter) or the Irish Medical Coun- dies and you can’t travel (but beware
cil, Lynn House, Portabello Court, that you may not be covered for a pre-
Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin 6 existing condition); and a third, when
(& 01/496-5588), for a referral. bad weather makes travel impossible.
Some insurers provide coverage for
INSURANCE events like jury duty; natural disasters
T R AV E L I N S U R A N C E close to home, like floods or fire; even
AT A G L A N C E the loss of a job. A few have added
Check your existing insurance policies provisions for cancellations due to ter-
before you buy travel insurance to rorist activities. Always check the fine
cover trip cancellation, lost luggage, print before signing on, and don’t buy
medical expenses, or car-rental insur- trip-cancellation insurance from the
ance. You’re likely to have partial or tour operator that may be responsible
complete coverage. But if you need for the cancellation; buy it only from a
some, ask your travel agent about a reputable travel insurance agency.
comprehensive package. The cost of Don’t overbuy. You won’t be reim-
travel insurance varies widely, depend- bursed for more than the cost of your
ing on the cost and length of your trip, trip.
your age and overall health, and the
type of trip you’re taking. MEDICAL INSURANCE
Keep in mind that in the aftermath Most health insurance policies cover
of the September 11, 2001, terrorist you if you get sick away from home—
attacks, a number of airlines, cruise but check, particularly if you’re insured
lines, and tour operators are no longer by an HMO. With the exception of
covered by insurers. The bottom line: certain HMOs and Medicare/Medic-
Always, always check the fine print aid, your medical insurance should
before you sign on; more and more cover medical treatment—even hospi-
policies have built-in exclusions and tal care—overseas. However, most out-
restrictions that may leave you out in of-country hospitals make you pay
the cold if something does go awry. your bills upfront, and send you a
For information, contact one of the refund after you’ve returned home and
following popular insurers: filed the necessary paperwork. Mem-
• Access America (& 800/284- bers of Blue Cross/Blue Shield can
8300; www.accessamerica.com) now use their cards at select hospitals in
• Travel Guard International most major cities worldwide (& 800/
(& 800/826-4919; www.travel 810-BLUE or www.bluecares.com for
guard.com) a list of hospitals).
• Travel Insured International Some credit cards (American
(& 800/243-3174; www.travel Express and certain gold and platinum
insured.com) Visa and MasterCards, for example)
• Travelex Insurance Services offer automatic flight insurance
(& 800/228-9792; www.travelex- against death or dismemberment in
insurance.com) case of an airplane crash if you charged
the cost of your ticket.
H E A LT H & I N S U R A N C E 37
If you require additional insurance, to file a claim immediately, as most

try one of the following companies: airlines enforce a 21-day deadline.
• MEDEX International, 9515 Before you leave home, compile an
Deereco Rd., Timonium, MD inventory of all packed items and a
21093-5375 (& 888/MEDEX- rough estimate of the total value to
00 or 410/453-6300; fax 410/ ensure you’re properly compensated if
453-6301; www.medexassist.com) your luggage is lost. You will only be
• Travel Assistance International reimbursed for what you lost, no
(& 800/821-2828; www.travel more. Once you’ve filed a complaint,
assistance.com), 9200 Keystone persist in securing your reimburse-
Crossing, Suite 300, Indianapolis, ment; there are no laws governing the
IN 46240 (for general informa- length of time it takes for a carrier to
tion on services, call the com- reimburse you.
pany’s Worldwide Assistance Lost luggage may also be covered by
Services, Inc., at & 800/777- your homeowner’s or renter’s policy. It’s
8710) also a standard feature of many special-
ist travel insurance plans, such as those
The cost of travel medical insurance offered by Travel Guard (see above).
varies widely. Check your existing Many platinum and gold credit cards
policies before you buy additional cov- cover you as well. If you choose to pur-
erage. Also, check to see if your med- chase additional lost-luggage insurance,
ical insurance covers you for be sure not to buy more than you need.
emergency medical evacuation: If you Buy in advance from the insurer or a
have to buy a one-way same-day ticket trusted agent (prices will be much
home and forfeit your nonrefundable higher at the airport).
round-trip ticket, you may be out big
bucks. C A R - R E N TA L I N S U R A N C E
(LOSS/DAMAGE WAIVER
L O S T- L U G G A G E
OR COLLISION DAMAGE
INSURANCE
WAIVER)
Statistically, the chance of your lug- Even if you hold a private auto insur-
gage not arriving at your destination ance policy, you probably are not cov-
with you is very small––just 5.29 of ered abroad for loss or damage to the
every 1,000 pieces of baggage, or less car, or liability in case a passenger is
than 1% of all luggage, gets mishan- injured. The credit card you used to
dled. Still, if it happens to you, it’s a rent the car may provide some cover-
huge inconvenience. On international age, but many cards have restrictions
flights (including U.S. portions of on coverage in Ireland.
international trips), baggage coverage Before you purchase insurance,
is limited to approximately $9.07 per check your own auto insurance policy,
pound, up to approximately $635 per the rental company policy, and your
checked bag. If you plan to check credit card coverage for the extent of
items more valuable than the standard coverage: Is your destination covered?
liability, you may purchase “excess val- Be aware that most credit cards do not
uation” coverage from the airline, up cover Ireland for the CDW.
to $5,000. Be sure to take any valu- Are other drivers covered? How
ables or irreplaceable items with you much liability is covered if a passenger
in your carry-on luggage. If you file a is injured? (If you rely on your credit
lost-luggage claim, be prepared to card for coverage, you may want to
answer detailed questions about the bring a second credit card with you, as
contents of your baggage, and be sure
damages may be charged to your card on renting a car in Ireland, see “Get-
and you may find yourself stranded ting Around,” later in this chapter.
with no money.) For more information
8 Tips for Travelers with Special Needs

FOR TRAVELERS WITH (& 056/62775); White Street, Cork
DISABILITIES (& 021/966354); Henry Street, Lim-
A disability shouldn’t stop anyone erick (& 061/313691); and Dominick
from traveling. There are more Street, Galway (& 091/771550), as
resources out there than ever before. well as in a range of smaller towns. If
One of the best Irish-based online you plan to travel by train in Ireland, be
resources is www.disability.ie. Click sure to check out Iarnrod Eireann’s
on the “holidays” button for good website (www.irishrail.ie), which
advice on traveling in Ireland with a includes services for travelers with dis-
disability, and companies that special- abilities. A Mobility Impaired Liaison
ize in helping travelers with disabilities. Officer (& 01/703-2634) can arrange
You can join the Society for Acces- assistance for travelers with disabilities
sible Travel and Hospitality (SATH; if given 24-hour notice prior to the
& 212/447-7284; fax 212/725-8253; departure time.
www.sath.org) to gain access to their For advice on travel to Northern Ire-
vast network of connections in the land, contact Disability Action, Port-
travel industry. Membership requires a side Business Park, 189 Airport Rd.
tax-deductible contribution of $45 West, Belfast BT3 9ED (& 028/
annually for adults, $30 for seniors 9029-7880; www.disabilityaction.
and students. org). The Northern Ireland Tourist
Finding accessible lodging can be Board also publishes a helpful annual
tricky in Ireland. Unfortunately, many Information Guide to Accessible Accom-
of the older hotels, small guesthouses, modation, available from any of its
and landmark buildings still have steps offices worldwide.
both outside and within. The National
Rehabilitation Board of Ireland, FOR SENIORS
24–25 Clyde Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin One of the benefits of age is that travel
4 (& 01/608-0400), publishes several often costs less. Always bring a photo
guides, the best of which is Guide to ID, especially if you’ve kept your
Accessible Accommodations in Ireland. youthful glow. Also mention the fact
Also, O’Mara Travel (disability@ that you’re a senior when you first
omara-travel.com), in association with make your travel reservations, since
the Disability.ie website (see above), many airlines and hotels offer dis-
often offers special deals on accommo- count programs for senior travelers.
dations to travelers with disabilities. For an annual fee of just $12.50,
Travelers with vision impairments members of AARP (& 800/424-3410;
should contact the American Foun- w w w. a a r p . c o m / m e m b e r g u i d e /
dation for the Blind (& 800/232- privileges) get discounts on hotels, air-
5463) for information on traveling fares, and car rentals.
with Seeing Eye dogs. Seniors, known in Ireland and
The Irish Wheelchair Association, Northern Ireland as OAPs (old age
24 Blackheath Dr., Clontarf, Dublin 3 pensioners), enjoy a variety of dis-
(& 01/833-8241; www.iwa.ie), loans counts and privileges. Native OAPs
free wheelchairs to travelers in Ireland. ride the public transport system free of
A donation is appreciated. Branch charge, but the privilege does not
offices are at Parnell Street, Kilkenny extend to tourists. Visiting seniors can
T I P S F O R T R AV E L E R S W I T H S P E C I A L N E E D S 39
Moments Summer School
Got a yearning for learning? Choose from a raft of short summer

courses on Irish history and culture.
Get in on the secrets of Ireland’s most famous chef, Darina Allen, at
Ballymaloe Cookery School, in Shanagarry, County Cork (& 021/465-
2531; fax 021/465-2021; www.cookingisfun.ie).
Spend a week in Glencolmcille, County Donegal, studying the Irish
Gaelic language, set dancing, archaeology, Celtic pottery, or tapestry
weaving at Oideas Gael (& 073/30248; fax 073/30348; www.oideas-gael.
com).
Discover the four greatest Irish playwrights—Synge, O’Casey, Beck-
ett, and Friel—in a 3-week course with the Irish Theatre Summer
School and the Gaiety School of Acting at University College Dublin.
Contact the North American Institute for Study Abroad (& 570/275-
5099; fax 570/275-1644; www.naisa.com).
For more on summer study in Ireland, contact the Irish Tourist Board
(see “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter.
avail themselves of other discounts, FOR STUDENTS, TEACHERS

however, particularly on admission to & YOUTHS
attractions and theaters. Always ask With almost half its population under
about a senior discount if special rates age 25, Ireland is geared to students,
are not posted. whether you’re planning to study or
The Irish Tourist Board publishes a are just passing through.
list of reduced-rate hotel packages for An excellent source book that will
seniors, Golden Holidays/For the help you explore the opportunities for
Over 55s. These packages are usually study in Ireland is The Transitions
available during the hedge months, Abroad Alternative Travel Directory,
from March to June and September to published by Transitions Abroad
November. (www.transitionsabroad.com) and
Some tour operators in the United available in bookstores.
States give notable senior discounts. Ireland in general is extremely stu-
CIE Tours International (& 800/ dent-friendly. A range of travel dis-
243-8687 or 973/292-3438; www.cie counts are available to students,
tours.com), which specializes in Ire- teachers (at any grade level, kinder-
land and Northern Ireland, gives a garten through university), and youths
$55 discount to travelers age 55 and (ages 12–25). Most attractions have a
up who book early on selected depar- reduced student-rate admission charge,
tures of regular tour programs. In with the presentation of a valid student
addition, SAGA Tours (& 800/343- ID card.
0273 or 617/262-2262) operates tours Two popular student ID cards are
to Ireland specifically geared to seniors the ISE Card (International Student
or anyone over 50. Elderhostel Exchange Card) and the ISIC (Inter-
(& 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel. national Student Identity Card). For a
org) offers a range of educational travel look at the various travel benefits that
programs for seniors. come with membership, go to www.
isecard.com and www.isiccard.com.
The International Student Identity cially if you realize that traveling with
Card (ISIC) is available for $22 from kids—like doing anything with kids—
STA Travel (& 800/781-4040 in requires a bit of extra planning. And
North America; www.sta.com or the best way to raise your kids’ enthu-
www.statravel.com), the biggest student siasm is to involve them in the deci-
travel agency in the world. If you’re no sion-making process. So pore over
longer a student but are still under 26, brochures and maps together. Perhaps
you can get a International Youth each family member can choose one or
Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price two “must” destinations or activities.
from the same people, which entitles Use the time leading up to the trip
you to some discounts (but not on to rent some movies set in Ireland—
museum admissions). (Note: In 2002, for younger kids and preteens, Into the
STA Travel bought competitors Coun- West, Waking Ned Devine, and The
cil Travel and USIT Campus after they Secret of Roan Inish are delightful and
went bankrupt. It’s still operating some packed with picture-postcard views.
offices under the Council name, but Encourage your kids to read books set
it’s owned by STA.) Travel CUTS in Ireland. Favorites include O’Sulli-
(& 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; van Stew, by Hudson Talbott (for 4–8-
www.travelcuts.com) offers similar serv- year-olds); and A Wizard Abroad, by
ices for both Canadians and US resi- Diane Duane (for 9–12-year-olds).
dents. Irish students may prefer to turn Also for over 9s: If your kids like
to USIT (& 01/602-1600; www.usit- Harry Potter, they’ll likely love the
now.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in excellent, bestselling, chilling, thrilling
student, youth, and independent travel. Artemis Fowl books by Irish author
In Ireland, STA Travel’s affiliate is Eoin (pronounced Owen) Colfer. The
USIT, the Irish Student Travel Ser- first book in the series was shortlisted
vice, 19 Aston Quay, Dublin 2 on the Whitbread Children’s Book of
(& 01/679-8833; www.usitnow.ie). the Year several years ago and film
In Northern Ireland, contact USIT in rights have been sold.
the Sountain Centre, College Street, Teenagers can discover a classic by
Belfast BT1 6ET (& 028/9032- James Joyce, Brendan Behan, or Sean
4073), or at Queens University Travel, O’Casey, or try out the king of con-
Student Union Building, University temporary Irish writing, Roddy Doyle.
Road, Belfast BT7 1PE (& 028/ Your first goal will be to find truly
9024-1830). In the United States, child-friendly places to stay. Hotels
USIT is at 891 Amsterdam Ave., New that say they welcome small children
York, NY 10025 (& 212/663-5435). and hotels that really provide for them
U.S. firms offering educational are, sadly, not always the same. To sort
travel programs to Ireland include the wheat from the chaff, the most
Academic Travel Abroad (& 800/ helpful website is www.irelandhotels.
556-7896 or 202/785-9000; www. com. Under “Find Accommodation,”
academic-travel.com), North Ameri- click “detailed search” to choose the
can Institute for Study Abroad options that are important to you:
(& 570/275-5099 or 570/275-1644; Kids’ meals? Pool? Outdoor play-
www.naisa.com), and Irish American ground? Babysitting service? Super-
Cultural Institute (& 800/232-3746 vised playroom? The site churns out a
or 973/605-1991; www.irishaci.org). list of hotels and guesthouses that have
exactly what you need.
FOR FAMILIES If your kids are under the age of 6,
So you’re bringing the kids to Ireland. consider staying a few days to a week
You’ll all have a fantastic time, espe- in one place with an Irish Tourist
T I P S F O R T R AV E L E R S W I T H S P E C I A L N E E D S 41
Board–approved farm stay (www.irish past several years, some of (mainly

farmholidays.com) or a self-catered rural) Ireland continues to discourage
vacation home (www.selfcatering- its gay population. In cities such as
ireland.com). It’s a lot more relaxing to Dublin, Cork, and Galway, however,
have a home base and make day trips gay and lesbian visitors can find
from there than to have to pack and enthusiastic support.
unpack daily to stick to an on-the-go The most essential publication is
itinerary. Another plus is that your Gay Community News, a monthly free
children may have the opportunity to newspaper of comprehensive Irish
meet and make friends with local kids. gay-related information, available in
The information provided in the sec- gay venues and bookshops. In Dublin,
tion “From Cottages to Castles: the city’s leading event listings guide,
Putting a Roof over Your Head,” later dedicates several pages to gay events,
in this chapter, will be helpful in pur- current club information, AIDS and
suing farmhouse accommodations and health information resources, accom-
self-catering options. modations options, and helpful organ-
If given 24-hour advance notice, izations.
most airlines can arrange for a special The most comprehensive websites
children’s menu. If you’re renting a car, for gay organizations, events, issues,
be sure to reserve car seats if your kids and information are Gay Ireland
are small—don’t assume that the car- Online (www.gay-ireland.com) and
rental companies will have extras on Outhouse (www.outhouse.ie).
hand. Throughout the island, The following organizations and
entrance fees and tickets on public help lines are staffed by knowledgeable
transportation are often reduced for and friendly people:
children under 12. Family rates for • Outhouse Community &
parents with children are also com- Resource Centre, 105 Capel St.,
monplace. In this guide, a “family” Dublin 1 (& 01/873-4932; fax
rate, unless otherwise stated, is for two 01/873-4933; www.outhouse.ie),
adults with two children. Additional available Monday to Friday 10am
increments are often charged for larger to 5pm.
families. Aside from all-too-familiar • National Lesbian and Gay Fed-
fast-food fare, many hotels and restau- eration (NLGF), 2 Scarlet Row,
rants offer children’s menus. Some Dublin 2 (& 01/671-0939; fax
hotels, guesthouses, and B&Bs pro- 01/671-3549; [email protected]),
vide babysitting, and others can available Monday to Friday noon
arrange it. Let hotels know in advance to 6pm.
if you’ll need a baby crib or any other • Gay Switchboard Dublin, Car-
equipment. See the “Fast Facts” fea- michael House, North Brunswick
ture for each major city for listings of Street, Dublin 7 (& 01/872-
drugstores and other crucial health 1055; fax 01/873-5737; www.
information. gayswitchboard.ie), Monday to
FOR GAY & LESBIAN Friday 8 to 10pm and Saturday
TRAVELERS 3:30 to 6pm.
Gay Ireland has rapidly come out of • Lesbian Line Dublin, Car-
the closet since homosexuality became michael House, North Brunswick
legal in the North in 1982 and in the Street (& 01/872-9911), Thurs-
Republic in July 1993. Although the day 7 to 9pm.
gay and lesbian community has • LOT (Lesbians Organizing
received increasing support over the Together), the umbrella group of
the lesbian community, 5 Capel Gay and lesbian travelers seeking

St., Dublin 1 (&/fax 01/872- information and assistance on travel
7770), accommodates drop-ins abroad might want to consult the
Monday to Thursday 10am to International Gay and Lesbian
6pm and Friday 10am to 4pm. Travel Association (IGLTA), 52 W.
LOT also sponsors LEA/Lesbian Oakland Park Blvd. #237, Wilton
Education Awareness (&/fax 01/ Manors, FL 33311 (& 800/448-
872-0460; [email protected]). 8550 or 954/776-2626; fax 954/776-
• AIDS Helpline Dublin (& 01/ 3303; www.iglta.org).
872-4277), run Monday to Fri- General gay and lesbian travel agen-
day 9am to 7pm and Saturday 3 cies include Above and Beyond Tours
to 5pm, offers assistance with (& 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyond
HIV/AIDS prevention, testing, tours.com).
and treatment.
9 Getting There
BY PLANE to Ireland’s regional airports. Note:
About half of all visitors from North Aer Lingus offers a wide range of
America arrive in Ireland on direct excellent-value packages that bundle
transatlantic flights to Dublin Airport, your flight with a rental car and/or
Shannon Airport, or Belfast Interna- accommodations. These aren’t tours—
tional Airport. The other half fly first you still travel independently once
into Britain or Europe, then “back- you get to Ireland—but by booking all
track” into Ireland by air or sea. In the the elements at once rather than sepa-
Republic, there are seven smaller rately, your savings can be significant.
regional airports, all of which (except As you’d expect, the discounts are
Knock) offer service to Dublin and deepest in the winter months.
several of which receive some Euro- American Airlines (& 800/433-
pean traffic. They are Cork, Donegal, 7300; www.aa.com) flies directly from
Galway, Kerry, Knock, Sligo, and New York (JFK) and Chicago to
Waterford. In Northern Ireland, the Dublin and Shannon. Delta Airlines
secondary airports are Belfast City (& 800/241-4141; www.delta.com)
Airport and Derry City Airport. Serv- flies directly from Atlanta to Dublin
ices and schedules are always subject and Shannon. Continental Airlines
to change, so be sure to consult your (& 800/231-0856; www.continental.
preferred airline or travel agent as soon com) offers nonstop service to Dublin
as you begin to sketch your itinerary. and Shannon from its Newark hub.
The routes and carriers listed below It’s possible to save big by booking
are provided to suggest the range of your air tickets through a consolidator
possibilities for air travel to Ireland. (aka bucket shop) who works with the
airlines to sell off their unsold air tick-
F R O M T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S ets at a cut price. But note that the sav-
The Irish national carrier, Aer Lingus ings generally range from miniscule in
(& 800/474-7424; www.aerlingus. the high season to substantial in the off
com) is the traditional leader in pro- season. Ireland Consolidated (& 888/
viding transatlantic flights to Ireland, 577-2900; www.irelandconsolidated.
with scheduled, nonstop flights from com) sells tickets to Ireland on regular
New York (JFK), Boston, Chicago, Delta, British Airways, and Continen-
Los Angeles, and Baltimore to Dublin, tal flights.
Shannon, and Belfast international
airports. From there, you can connect
GETTING THERE 43
Tips Backtracking to Ireland

Your favorite airline doesn’t fly to Ireland? Many travelers opt to fly to
Britain and backtrack into Ireland (see “From Britain,” above). Carriers serv-
ing Britain from the United States include American Airlines (& 800/433-
7300; www.aa.com), British Airways (& 800/247-9297; www.british-airways.
com), Continental Airlines (& 800/231-0856; www.continental.com), Delta
Airlines (& 800/241-4141; www.delta.com), Northwest Airlines (& 800/447-
4747; www.nwa.com), United (& 800/241-6522; www.ual.com), and Virgin
Atlantic Airways (& 800/862-8621; www.virgin-atlantic.com).
F R O M B R I TA I N 7747 in the U.S.; www.klm.com);

The London-Dublin and London- Madrid and Barcelona on Iberia
Shannon routes are two of the busiest (& 800/772-4642 in the U.S.; www.
flight paths in Europe, and competi- iberia.com); Brussels on Ryanair
tion is stiff—which means that you (www.ryanair.com); Copenhagen on
can often get a fantastic deal. Aer Lingus and SAS (& 800/221-
The following carriers offer direct 2350 in the U.S.; www.scandinavian.
flights from London: Aer Lingus net); Frankfurt on Aer Lingus and
(& 800/474-7424 in the U.S. or 020/ Lufthansa (& 800/645-3880 in the
8899-4747 in Britain); Lufthansa U.S.; www.lufthansa.com); Paris on
(& 800/581-6400 in the U.S.; www. Aer Lingus and Air France (& 800/
lufthansa.co.uk), and bmi baby 237-2747 in the U.S.; www.airfrance.
(& 800/788-0555 in the U.S. or com); Prague on CSA Czech Airlines
0870/607-0555 in Britain; www.ifly (& 212/765-6588 in the U.S.; www.
britishmidland.com). Two low-cost air- csa.cz); and Rome on Aer Lingus.
lines making the London-Dublin hop Quite recently, Cork Airport
are CityJet (& 0345/445588 in (& 021/431-3131; www.cork-airport.
Britain) and Ryanair (& 0541/ com) passed Shannon to become the
569569 in Britain; www.ryanair.com). second-ranked airport in Ireland,
In addition to the London-Dublin though it offers no nonstop trans-
and London-Shannon routes, the atlantic service. Aer Lingus, British
aforementioned carriers make direct Airways, KLM, and Ryanair are
flights from more than 20 other among the airlines flying into Cork
British cities to Dublin, Cork, Shan- from Great Britain and the Continent
non, Galway, and other regional Irish (see above for their contact info).
airports. Direct service to Shannon from the
Belfast has two airports, Belfast Continent includes Aer Lingus from
International Airport (& 028/9448- Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Paris, and
4848; www.bial.co.uk) and Belfast Zurich.
City Airport (& 028/9093-9093;
F LY F O R L E S S : T I P S
www.belfastcityairport.com). Airlines
FOR GETTING THE
flying directly from Britain to Belfast
B E S T A I R FA R E S
include British Airways (& 0345/
222111; www.british-airways.com). • Book early. Booking your ticket
at least 14 days in advance will
FROM THE CONTINENT almost always get you a lower fare.
Major direct flights into Dublin from Be sure you understand cancella-
the Continent include service from tion and refund policies before
Amsterdam on KLM (& 800/374- you buy.
Fun Fact Don’t Go There!
Place Name From Gaelic Meaning

Ardnocrohy Ard na Croiche Height of the gallows
Ardnaree Ard na Ria Height of the execution
Drumnafinnagle Droim Na Fionghal Ridge of the fratricide
Killare Cill Air Church of slaughter
• Travel Midweek. Flying Tuesday still best to compare your findings

to Thursday is cheaper than flying with the research of a dedicated
on weekends. An added bonus: travel agent. See “Planning Your
Midweek transatlantic flights are Trip Online,” below.
sometimes half empty, allowing • Make a bid. You can also bid for
you to stretch out across extra seats on your desired flight with
seats. Ahhhh, nice. travel auctioneers such as Price-
• Stay over Saturday. To exclude line (www.priceline.com). In
business travelers from the cheap- some cases—though very rarely—
est fares, most airlines offer lower winning bids are as low as $5.
rates for trips that include at least • Consider a charter flight. They’re
1 Saturday night. So don’t book a often dirt cheap, but the downsides
6-night trip where you arrive on are that they offer fewer frills, offer
Sunday and depart for home the fewer flights per week, and their
following Saturday, or you’ll pay tickets are ordinarily nonrefund-
more than you have to. able. From the United States,
• Use a consolidator. Also known Sceptre Charters (& 800/221-
as a bucket shop, a consolidator is 0924 or 516/255-9800) operates
a gold mine for low fares, often the largest and most reliable charter
below the airlines’ discounted program to Ireland. It sells tickets
rates. There’s nothing shady about on America Trans Air flights to
them—basically, they’re just Shannon from Boston, Philadel-
wholesalers that buy in bulk and phia, Chicago, and Los Angeles.
pass some of the savings on to Several companies in Canada oper-
you. Some of the most reliable ate charter flights from Toronto to
consolidators include Cheap Ireland, including Signature Vaca-
Tickets (& 800/377-1000; www. tions (& 800/268-7063 in
cheaptickets.com), Payless Travel Canada or 800/268-1105 in the
(& 202/822-8018; www.payless U.S.), Air Transat Holidays
airfares.com), Council Travel (& 800/587-2672 in Canada or
(& 800/226-8624; www.council 514/987-1550), and Regent Holi-
travel.com), STA Travel (& 800/ days (& 800/387-4860 in Canada
781-4040; www.statravel.com), or 905/673-3343).
Lowestfare.com (& 888/278-
8830; www.lowestfare.com), BY FERRY
Cheap Seats (& 800/451-7200; If you’re traveling to Ireland from
www.cheapseatstravel.com), and Britain or the Continent, especially if
1-800-FLY-CHEAP (www.fly you’re behind the wheel of a car, ferries
cheap.com). can get you there. The Irish Sea has a
• Surf the Internet. This is the hot reputation for making seafarers woozy,
way to buy air tickets, though it’s however, so it’s always a good idea to
GETTING THERE 45
Fun Fact Go There!
Place Name From Gaelic Meaning

Clonmel Cluain Meala Pasture of honey
Iniskeen Inis Caoin Beautiful island
Knockanevin Cnogan Aoibhinn Pleasant small hill
Greenaun Grianan Sunny place
consider an over-the-counter pill or Ferries (& 021/427-7801 in Cork;

patch to guard against seasickness. (Be www.brittany-ferries.com) operates
sure to take any pills before you set from Holyhead to Dublin; from Fish-
out; once you’re under way, it’s gener- guard and Pembroke to Rosslare; and
ally too late.) from Stranraer to Belfast. Swansea/
Several car and passenger ferries Cork Ferries (& 01792/456116 in
offer reasonably comfortable furnish- Britain; www.swansea-cork.ie) links
ings, cabin berths (for longer cross- Swansea, Wales, to Ringaskiddy, just
ings), restaurants, duty-free shopping, outside Cork City, County Cork.
and lounges. P&O Irish Sea Ferries operates from
Prices fluctuate seasonally and Liverpool to Dublin and from Cairn-
depend on your route, your time of ryan, Scotland, to Larne, County
travel, and whether you are on foot or Antrim, Northern Ireland. For reserva-
in a car. It’s best to check with your tions, call Scots-American Travel
travel agent for up-to-date details, but (& 561/563-2856 in the U.S., 0870/
just to give you an idea, the lowest one- 242-4777 in Britain, or 01/638-3333
way adult fare in high season on the in Ireland; www.poirishsea.com).
cruise ferry from Holyhead to Dublin Norse Merchant Ferries (& 0870/
is €30 ($36). Add your car, and the 600-4321 in Britain or 01/819-2999
grand total will be €190 ($229). The in Ireland; www.norsemerchant.com)
websites given below have regularly sails from Liverpool to Belfast. Isle of
updated schedules and prices. Man Steam Packet Company/Sea
F R O M B R I TA I N Cat (& 01624/661661 in Britain or
Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.ie) 01/874-1231 in Ireland; www.steam-
operates from Holyhead, Wales, to packet.com) operates ferries from Liv-
Dublin, and from Pembroke, Wales, erpool to Dublin, and from Heysham
to Rosslare, County Wexford. For and Troon, both in Scotland, to Belfast.
reservations, call Scots-American F R O M C O N T I N E N TA L
Travel (& 561/563-2856 in the U.S.; EUROPE
[email protected]) or Irish Irish Ferries sails from Roscoff and
Ferries (& 0870/517-1717 in the Cherbourg, France, to Rosslare. For
U.K. or 01/638-3333 in Ireland; reservations, call Scots-American
www.irishferries.com). Stena Line Travel (& 561/563-2856 in the U.S.;
(& 888/274-8724 in the U.S. or [email protected]) or Irish
0870/570-7070 in Britain; www.stena Ferries (& 0870-5171717 in the
line.com) sails from Holyhead to Dun U.K. or 01/638-3333 in Ireland).
Laoghaire, 13km (8 miles) south of P&O Irish Sea Ferries operates from
Dublin; from Fishguard, Wales, to Cherbourg, France, to Rosslare. For
Rosslare; and from Stranraer, Scotland, reservations, call Scots-American
to Belfast, Northern Ireland. Brittany Travel (& 561/563-2856 in the U.S.,
0870/242-4777 in Britain, or 01/638- Note to Eurailpass holders:

3333 in Ireland; www.poirishsea. Because Irish Ferries is a member of
com). Brittany Ferries (& 021/ the Eurail system, you can travel free
427-7801 in Cork; www.brittany- between Rosslare and Roscoff or
ferries.com) connects Roscoff, France, Cherbourg.
to Cork.
10 Planning Your Trip Online

Researching and booking your trip Last-minute specials, such as
online can save time and money. Then weekend deals or Internet-only fares,
again, it may not. It is simply not true are offered by airlines to fill empty
that you always get the best deal seats. Most of these are announced on
online. Most booking engines do not Tuesday or Wednesday and must be
include schedules and prices for purchased online. They are only valid
budget airlines, and from time to time for travel that weekend, but some can
you’ll get a better last-minute price by be booked weeks or months in
calling the airline directly, so it’s best advance. Sign up for weekly e-mail
to call the airline to see if you can do alerts at airline websites or check meg-
better before booking online. asites that compile comprehensive lists
On the plus side, Internet users of last-minute specials, such as
today can tap into the same travel- Smarter Living (www.smarterliving.
planning databases that were once com), Travelzoo (www.travelzoo.com),
accessible only to travel agents—and or WebFlyer (www.webflyer.com).
do it at the same speed. Sites such as Some sites, such as Expedia.com and
Frommers.com, Travelocity, Expe- Travelocity.com, will send you e-mail
dia.com, and Orbitz allow consumers notification when a cheap fare becomes
to comparison-shop for airfares, access available to your favorite destination.
special bargains, book flights, and Some will also tell you when fares to a
reserve hotel rooms and rental cars. particular destination are lowest.
Travelzoo.com is a great at-a-glance
stop for deals and last-minute specials TRAVEL PLANNING &
to various destinations. BOOKING SITES
But don’t fire your travel agent just Keep in mind that because several air-
yet. Although online booking sites lines are no longer willing to pay com-
offer tips and hard data to help you missions on tickets sold by online
bargain-shop, they cannot endow you travel agencies, these agencies may
with the hard-earned experience that either add a $10 surcharge to your bill
makes a seasoned, reliable travel agent if you book on that carrier or neglect
an invaluable resource, even in the to offer those carriers’ schedules.
Internet age. And for consumers with The list of sites below is selective,
a complex itinerary, a trusty travel not comprehensive. Some sites will
agent is still the best way to arrange have evolved or disappeared by the
the most direct flights to and from the time you read this.
best airports. • Travelocity (www.travelocity.com
Still, there’s no denying the Inter- or www.frommers.travelocity.com)
net’s emergence as a powerful tool in and Expedia.com (www.expedia.
researching and plotting travel time. com) are among the most popular
The benefits of researching your trip sites, each offering an excellent
online can be well worth the effort. range of options. Travelers search
by destination, dates, and cost.
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P O N L I N E 47
Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource

For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend
Frommers.com (www.frommers.com). We’re a little biased, of course, but
we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation
giveaways, and online-booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable.
Among the special features are our popular Message Boards, where From-
mer’s readers post queries and share advice (sometimes even our authors
show up to answer questions); Frommers.com Newsletter, for the latest
travel bargains and inside travel secrets; and Frommer’s Destinations Sec-
tion, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommenda-
tions, and advice on the sights to see for more than 2,500 destinations
around the globe. When your research is done, the Online Reservation
System (www.frommers.com/booktravelnow) takes you to Frommer’s
favorite sites for booking your vacation at affordable prices.
• Orbitz (www.orbitz.com) is a • Know when sales start. Last-

popular site launched by United, minute deals may vanish in min-
Delta, Northwest, American, and utes. If you have a favorite booking
Continental airlines. (Stay tuned: site or airline, find out when last-
At press time, travel-agency asso- minute deals are released to the
ciations were waging an antitrust public. (For example, Southwest’s
battle against this site.) specials are posted every Tues at
• Qixo (www.qixo.com) is another 12:01am Central time.)
powerful search engine that allows • Shop around. If you’re looking for
you to search for flights and bargains, compare prices on differ-
accommodations from some 20 ent sites and airlines—and against
airline and travel-planning sites a travel agent’s best fare. Try a
(such as Travelocity) at once. Qixo range of times and alternative air-
sorts results by price. ports before you make a purchase.
• Priceline (www.priceline.com) • Stay secure. Book only through
lets you “name your price” for air- secure sites (some airline sites are
line tickets, hotel rooms, and not secure). Look for a key icon
rental cars. For airline tickets, you (Netscape) or a padlock (Internet
can’t say what time you want to Explorer) at the bottom of your
fly—you have to accept any flight Web browser before you enter
between 6am and 10pm on the credit card information or other
dates you’ve selected, and you may personal data.
have to make one or more • Avoid online auctions. Sites that
stopovers. Tickets are nonrefund- auction airline tickets and fre-
able, and no frequent-flier miles quent-flier miles are the number-
are awarded. Not for the feint of one perpetrators of Internet fraud,
heart but worth a shot if you’re according to the National Con-
dead certain of your dates and sumers League.
have a simple itinerary. • Maintain a paper trail. If you
book an E-ticket, print out a con-
SMART E-SHOPPING firmation, or write down your
The savvy traveler is armed with confirmation number, and keep it
insider information. Here are a few safe and accessible—or your trip
tips to help you navigate the Internet could be a virtual one!
successfully and safely:
ONLINE TRAVELER’S world. Note: Temperatures are in

TOOLBOX Celsius for many international
Veteran travelers usually carry some destinations.
essential items to make their trips eas- • Cybercafes.com (www.cybercafes.
ier. Following is a selection of online com) or Net Café Guide (www.net
tools to bookmark and use: cafeguide.com/mapindex.htm).
• Visa ATM Locator (www.visa. Locate Internet cafes at hundreds
com) or MasterCard ATM Loca- of locations around the globe.
tor (www.mastercard.com). Find Catch up on your e-mail and log
ATMs in hundreds of cities in the on to the Web for a few dollars per
United States and around the hour.
world. • Universal Currency Converter
• Intellicast (www.intellicast.com). (www.xe.net/currency). See what
Find weather forecasts for all 50 your dollar or pound is worth in
states and for cities around the more than 100 other countries.
11 Getting Around
BY PLANE 3 hours; to Limerick, 21⁄4 hours; to
Because Ireland is such a small coun- Killarney, 4 hours; to Sligo, 31⁄4 hours;
try, it’s unlikely you’ll be flying from and to Waterford, 23⁄4 hours.
place to place. If you do require an air Iarnrod Eireann/Irish Rail also
transfer, however, Aer Lingus (& 01/ offers an enticing array of weekend-to-
705-3333; www.aerlingus.com) oper- weeklong holiday packages or Rail-
ates daily scheduled flights linking Breaks to practically every corner of
Dublin with Cork, Galway, Kerry, Ireland, north as well as south.
Knock, Shannon, Sligo, and Belfast. In addition to the Irish Rail service
Aer Arann (& 1890/462726 toll- between Dublin and Belfast, Northern
free; www.aerarann.ie) operates flights Ireland Railways (& 888/BRITRAIL
between Dublin and Belfast, Cork, or 028/9089-9411; www.nirailways.
Derry, Donegal, Galway, Kerry, co.uk) operates routes from Belfast
Knock, and Sligo, as well as from Gal- that include Coleraine and Derry; and
way to the Aran Islands. suburban routes from Belfast to Porta-
down, Bangor, and Larne.
BY TRAIN
Iarnrod Eireann (& 1850/366222 or BY BUS
01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie) oper- Bus Eireann (& 01/830-2222; www.
ates the train services in Ireland. With buseireann.ie) operates an extensive
the exception of flying, train travel is system of express bus service, as well
the fastest way to get around the coun- as local service to nearly every town in
try. Most lines radiate from Dublin to Ireland. Express routes include
other principal cities and towns. From Dublin to Donegal (41⁄4 hr.), Killarney
Dublin, the journey time to Cork is 3 to Limerick (21⁄2 hr.), Limerick to Gal-
hours; to Belfast, 2 hours; to Galway, way (2 hr.), and Limerick to Cork
Tips Ticket Talk

When buying travel tickets—air, ferry, or train—ask for either a “single”
(one-way) or a “return” (round-trip).
GETTING AROUND 49
Irish Rail Routes
North
Channel
Portrush
ATLANTIC Ballycastle
Coleraine
OCEAN Larne
Ballymoney Harbour
Derry
Larne
Whitehead
Carrickfergus
Antrim Bangor
Belfast York
Road
Lurgan BELFAST
Enniskillen Portadown
CENTRAL
Lisburn
Ballina Sligo
Collooney Newry
Boyle Carrick-on-
Ballymote Shannon Dundalk
Foxford
Dromod Irish
MANULLA
Castlebar
JUNCTION Sea
Ballyhaunis Longford
Westport Drogheda
Claremorris Mostrim Mosney
Castlerea
Balbriggan
Roscommon Skerries
Tuam Mullingar Enfield Malahide
Woodlawn Dublin
Athenry Athlone Connolly
Galway Clara Maynooth DUBLIN Dublin
Ballinasloe Kildare Dublin
Tullamore Heuston Pearse
Attymon Dun
PORTARLINGTON Bray Laoghaire
ARAN ISLANDS Portlaoise Newbridge
Ennistymon Roscrea Greystones
Athy
Cloughjordan Wicklow
Carlow
Ennis Nenagh Rathdrum
Temple- BALLYBROPHY Arklow
Birdhill more Muine
Castle- Kilkenny Bheag
connell Gorey
Limerick Thurles Thomastown
Mouth of the LIMERICK Enniscorthy
Shannon Listowel JUNCTION Clonmel
Tipperary Campile Wexford
Charleville
Tralee Cahir Rosslare Strand
Carrick-on-Suir
Rathmore
Farranfore MALLOW WATERFORD Rosslare
Killarney Harbour
Banteer Ballycullane
Millstreet Bridgetown
Fota
Cork Wellington
Bridge
Cobh
St. George’s
Channel
0 30 mi
N
0 30 km
Value Money-Saving Rail & Bus Passes
For extensive travel by public transport, you can save money by

purchasing a rail/bus pass or a rail-only pass. The options include the
following:
• Eurailpass: Of the dozens of different Eurailpasses available, some
are valid for unlimited rail travel in 17 European countries—but none
include Britain or Northern Ireland. Other passes let you save money
by selecting fewer countries. In the Irish Republic, the Eurailpass is
good for travel on trains, Expressway coaches, and the Irish Conti-
nental Lines ferries between France and Ireland. For passes that let
you travel throughout continental Europe and the Republic of Ire-
land, first-class passes begin at $588 for 15 consecutive days of travel;
youth passes (passengers must be under 26 years old) begin at $414
for 15 consecutive days of travel in second class. The pass must be
purchased 21 days before departure for Europe by a non–European
Union resident. For further details or for purchase, call Rail Pass
Express (& 800/722-7151; www.eurail.com). It’s also available from
STA Travel (& 800/781-4040; www.sta.com) and other travel agents.
You can also find more information online at www.eurail.com.
• BritRail Pass + Ireland: Includes all rail travel throughout the United
Kingdom and Ireland, including a round-trip ferry crossing on Stena
Line. A pass good for any 5 days of unlimited travel within a 30-day
period costs $479 first class, $359 second class; 10 days of unlimited
travel within a 30-day period costs $755 first class, $545 second class.
It must be purchased before departure for Ireland or the United
Kingdom. Available from BritRail (& 800/BRITRAIL or 800/555-2748
in Canada; www.britrail.net).
• Emerald Card: Valid for second-class rail and bus service throughout
Ireland and Northern Ireland, the pass costs $316 for 15 days of travel
within a 30-day period, or $182 for 8 days of travel within a 15-day
period. You must purchase a voucher 21 days before departure for Ire-
land, available from CIE Tours International (& 800/243-8687,
973/292-3438 in the U.S., or 800/387-2667 in Canada; www.cietours.
com). Once in Ireland, you then exchange the voucher for your pass.
• Irish Explorer: For use only in the Republic of Ireland, this pass is good
for either 8 days of combined rail and bus services for $158 or 5 days
of rail-only for $106. It’s available from CIE Tours International.
• Irish Rover: For use in the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland,
this pass entitles you to 5 days of rail travel within a 15-day period
for $132. It’s available from CIE Tours International.
(2 hr.). The Bus Eireann website pro- Ulsterbus (& 028/9033-3000;

vides the latest timetables and fares www.translink.co.uk) runs virtually all
for bus service throughout Ireland. bus service in and between 21 locali-
Bus travel is usually affordable, reli- ties in Northern Ireland. The same
able, and comfortable. organization runs the Belfast city serv-
ice, called Citybus.
GETTING AROUND 51
Major Irish Bus Routes
North
Channel
Portrush
ATLANTIC
Coleraine
OCEAN Magherafelt
Letterkenny DERRY
Larne
Ballybofey Strabane
Donegal Lough BELFAST

Cookstown
Derg Omagh
Ballyshannon Dungannon
Bundoran Portadown
Enniskillen
SLIGO Monaghan Armagh
Newry
BALLINA Ballinamore Clones C’Blayney
Dooagh Cavan Dundalk
Charlestown Boyle Carrick-on-
Knock Shannon Virginia Carrickmacross
Achill Castlebar
Kells Ardee
Westport Strokestown Mohill
Drogheda
Claremorris Ballyhaunis Navan
Leenane
LONGFORD Slane Irish
Roscommon Mullingar
Tuam Moylough Kinnegad
Sea
Clifden
ATHLONE
Roundstone Oughterard Ballinasloe Rhode DUBLIN
Moate Edenderry
GALWAY Bray
Loughrea Dr. Nua
Portumna Kildare Naas
Gort Birr Wicklow
Lahinch Portlaoise
ROSCREA
Miltown Malbay Ennis Athy
Shannon Airport Nenagh Durrow Arklow
Carlow Tullow
Kilkee Thurles Gorey
Mouth of the Kilrush LIMERICK Kilkenny
Shannon Adare Cashel Enniscorthy
Callan
Ballybunion Listowel
Tipperary Clonmel New Ross WEXFORD
Rathluirc Cahir Carrick-on-Suir Rosslare
Dingle Tralee Mitchelstown Harbour
WATERFORD
Killarney Mallow Cappoquin
Fermoy
Dungarvan
Kenmare Youghal
Bandon CORK
Glengarriff St. George’s
Bantry Clonakilty Channel
Skibbereen
0 30 mi
N
0 30 km
BY CAR Unless your stay in Ireland extends

Although Ireland offers an extensive beyond 6 months, your own valid
network of public transportation, U.S. or Canadian driver’s license (pro-
there are big advantages to having vided you’ve had it for at least 6
your own car. Mainly, you’ll be months) is all you need to drive in Ire-
unhampered by imposed schedules land. Rules and restrictions for car
and have the freedom to explore any- rental vary slightly and correspond
where serendipity leads you—a real roughly to those in the United States,
plus in a country like Ireland, where with two important distinctions. Most
small-town doings can be the high- rental-car agencies in the Republic
light of your day, or entire trip. In a won’t rent to you (1) if you’re under
nutshell, if you want to see the “real 23 or over 74 (there’s no upper age
Ireland” outside the major cities, you’ll limit in the North) or (2) if your
want a car. license has been valid for less than a
The disadvantages of having a car year.
begin with the cost of rental and Note: Double check your credit
continue with each refueling. In high card’s policy on picking up the insur-
season, weekly rental rates on a man- ance on rental cars. Almost none of
ual-transmission compact vehicle the American-issued cards—including
begin at around $245 (and that’s if gold cards—cover the collision dam-
you’ve shopped around) and ascend age waiver (CDW) on car rentals in
steeply—but it’s at the pump that Ireland anymore.
you’re likely to go into shock. Irish gas
DRIVING LAWS, TIPS
prices can be triple what you pay in
& CAUTIONS
the United States. The consolation is
Highway safety has become a critical
that Ireland is relatively small, so dis-
national issue in Ireland during the
tances are comparatively short.
past several years. The number of
Another potential pitfall is that
highway fatalities is shocking for such
rental cars in Ireland are almost always
a small nation, and Ireland is ranked
equipped with standard transmis-
as the second-most-dangerous country
sions—you can rent an automatic, but
in Europe in which to drive (second
it will cost substantially (about $200
only to Greece and twice as dangerous
per week) more. Driving on the left
as its next “competitor”). In the past
side of the road and shifting gears with
year, the Irish government has initi-
your left hand can take some getting
ated a penalty points system similar to
used to. Then consider that another
that in most U.S. states and in Britain.
fact of life in Ireland is cramped roads.
(While visitors won’t have points
Even the major Irish motorways are
added to their licenses, they may still
surprisingly narrow, with lanes made
be penalized with fines if they speed or
to order for what many Americans
commit driving infractions. And it’s
would regard as miniature cars—just
nice to know that the locals are moti-
the kind you’ll wish you had rented
vated to keep the speeds down.)
once you’re under way. Off the motor-
In light of Ireland’s unfortunate
ways, it’s rare to find a road with a
highway statistics, every possible pre-
hard shoulder—leaving precious little
caution is in order. Try to avoid driv-
maneuvering space when a bus or
ing late at night, after dark, and
truck is coming from the opposite
around pub closing time; get off the
direction. So think small when you
road when driving conditions are
pick out your rental car. The choice is
compromised by rain, fog, or excessive
yours: between room in the car and
holiday traffic; and don’t drive alone.
room on the road.
GETTING AROUND 53
Road Rules in a Nutshell

1. Drive on the left side of the road.
2. On motorways, the left lane is the traveling lane. The right lane is
for overtaking (though many drivers just use it as the “fast lane”).
3. Everyone must wear a seatbelt by law. Children must be in age-
appropriate child seats.
4. Children under age 12 are not allowed to sit in the front seat.
5. When entering a roundabout (traffic circle), give way to traffic
coming from the right.
6. The speed limits are 112kmph (70 mph) on motorways, 96kmph
(60 mph) on most other roads, and 48kmph (30 mph) in heavily-
congested or residential areas.
Getting used to left-side driving, left- Remember always to yield to traffic on

handed stick shift, narrow roads, and a the right as you approach a round-
new landscape are enough for the about and follow the traffic to the left.
driver to manage, not to mention hav- One signal that could be particu-
ing to find his or her way to a destina- larly misleading to U.S. drivers is a
tion. Consider driving only an hour or flashing yellow light at a pedestrian
two on the day you arrive, just far traffic light. This almost always fol-
enough to get to a nearby hotel or lows a red light and it means yield to
bed-and-breakfast and to get a feel for pedestrians, then proceed when the
the roads. crossing is clear.
Irish drivers tend to drive faster than There are relatively few types of
the speed limits of 112kmph (70 mph) roads in the Republic. National (N)
on the motorways and 100kmph (60 roads link major cities on the island.
mph) on open, nonurban roads. Though these are the equivalent of
Remember that in Ireland the left lane U.S. highways, they are rarely more
is for traveling and the right is for pass- than two lanes in each direction and
ing. Except for when you are overtak- many pass directly through towns,
ing another vehicle, you should remain making cross-country trips longer
in the left lane. than you’d expect. Regional (R) roads
Meanwhile, traffic in Dublin pro- have one lane of traffic traveling in
vides its own frustration. Don’t even each direction, and generally link
think about renting a car for your time smaller cities and towns. Lastly, there
in Dublin. The pace of traffic in the are the rural or unclassified roads,
capital’s city center is now officially often the most scenic back roads.
down to 8kmph (about 5 mph), These can be poorly signposted.
against an average of 15kmph (9 mph) In the North, there are two Major
in most other European capitals. Motorways (M), equivalent to inter-
When you figure in all the one-way states, as well as a network of lesser A-
streets and shameful lack of parking, and B-level roads. Speed limits are
you’re much better off on foot. posted. In general, the limit for urban
“Roundabouts” (what Americans areas is 46kmph (30 mph), for open
call traffic circles or rotaries) are found but undivided highways 95kmph (60
on all major and minor motorways mph), and for major motorways
and take a little getting used to. 112kmph (70 mph).
The enforcement of speed limits has U.S.; www.nationalcar.com), and Pay-

become increasingly stringent, and Irish less/Bunratty (& 800/729-5377 in
roads have some built-in enforcers. the U.S.; www.paylesscarrental.com).
Roads are often slick, with many bends It’s best to shop around, because it is
and rises, any one of which can present impossible to know who’ll be offering
a sheep or other four-legged pedestrian the best rate for your travel needs,
on very short notice. The low density of although Budget and Hertz seem con-
traffic on some of Ireland’s roads can sistently quite competitive.
promote the deadly fantasy that you Auto Europe (& 800/223-5555;
have the road to yourself. Don’t wait to fax 207/828-1177; www.autoeurope.
be contradicted. com) consistently offers excellent rates
Both the North and the Republic and service on overseas rentals and
have appropriately severe laws against long-term leases. Their agreements are
drunk driving, and they will gladly clear, straightforward, and all-inclu-
enforce them. Both countries also sive. Better yet, they can beat any bona
enforce the mandatory use of seat belts fide offer from another company; ask
in the front seat, and the North for the “Beat Rate Desk.” Another
extends that to rear-seat passengers. well-established firm offering good
Additionally, it is against the law in deals on long-term leases and rentals is
the Republic for any child under 12 to Europe by Car (& 800/223-1516;
sit in the front seat. www.europebycar.com).
In addition, a variety of Irish-based
R E N TA L S
companies have desks at the major air-
Try to make car-rental arrangements ports and full-service offices in city or
well in advance of your departure. town locations. The leader among the
Leaving such arrangements until the Irish-based firms is Dan Dooley/Ken-
last minute—or, worse, until your ning Rent-a-Car (& 800/331-9301
arrival in Ireland—can mean you wind in the U.S.; www.dan-dooley.ie).
up either walking or wishing you were. When comparing prices, always ask
Ireland is a small country, and in high if the quoted rate includes the 13.5%
season it can completely run out of government tax (VAT), the €15 ($18)
rental cars—but before it does, it runs airport pickup fee (assuming you pick
out of affordable rental cars. Discounts up your car right upon arrival), CDW
are common in the off season, of (collision damage waiver), or theft
course, but it’s also possible to negoti- insurance. If you have your own auto
ate a decent deal for July and August if insurance, you may be covered; check
you put in enough time and effort. your existing policy before you pay for
Major international car-rental firms additional coverage you may not need.
are represented at airports and cities If you rent a car in the Republic, it is
throughout Ireland and Northern Ire- best to return it to the Republic, and if
land. They include Alamo-Treaty you rent it in the North, return it in
(& 800/327-9633 in the U.S.; www. the North (most firms charge extra for
goalamo.com), Auto-Europe (& 800/ cross-border drop-offs).
223-5555 in the U.S.; www.auto A sticky—and expensive—caveat
europe.com), Avis (& 800/331-1084 about car rentals: If you rent with a
in the U.S.; www.avis.com), Budget credit card that claims to provide free
(& 800/472-3325 in the U.S.; www. protection, be sure to call your card’s
budget.com), Hertz (& 800/838- customer service line to make certain
0826 in the U.S.; www.hertz.com), there are no restrictions on that cover-
Murrays Europcar (& 800/800-6000 age in Ireland. Visa does not offer
in the U.S.; www.europcar.ie), insurance protection for car rentals in
National (& 800/227-7368 in the
GETTING AROUND 55
Ireland. And MasterCard and Ameri- Stephen’s Green West, among other
can Express—even gold cards—have locations.
limited their protection on Irish In Belfast and other large cities in
rentals. Be certain that your informa- the North, certain security measures
tion is current. Always confirm the are in place. Control zone signs indi-
details of your coverage when you cate that no unattended vehicle can be
charge your car rental to your credit left there at any time. That means if
card. If you are renting a car in the you are a single traveler, you cannot
Republic and taking it into the North leave your car; if you are a twosome,
(or vice versa), be sure to ask the car- one person must remain in the car
rental firm if the CDW and theft while it’s parked. Also, unlocked cars
insurance covers cross-border trans- anywhere in the North are subject to a
port. If not, you may be required to fine, for security reasons.
buy extra insurance.
B Y TA X I & H A C K N E Y
PA R K I N G Taxis and hackneys look very much
Rule Number 1: Not to beat a dead alike. Both drive you where you ask
horse, but you’re better off without a them to, and the drivers collect a fee at
car in Dublin. Traffic, a shortage of the end and are quite likely to entertain
parking places, and one-way streets you with stories. There are some signif-
conspire to make you regret having icant differences, however. Hackneys
wheels. Cork is nearly as bad. are not allowed to wait at taxi “ranks”
Rule Number 2: Never park in bus or display a sign atop their cars; they
lanes or next to a curb with double don’t use meters; and they are not reg-
yellow lines. Dublin, in particular, ulated by any municipal or state
cracks down hard on offenders by agency. In other words, they are private
clamping or towing delinquent cars. It individuals doing business as drivers for
will cost you €85 ($102) to have your hire. They agree with you on a fare,
car unclamped, or a whopping €165 which could be more or less than the
($199) to reclaim a towed car—so be regulated fee a taxi would charge. Both
extra vigilant. taxis and hackneys advertise in the clas-
Some small cities and most towns sifieds or “Golden Pages.”
still have free street parking, but in
BY CHAUFFERED CAR
larger cities such as Dublin and Cork,
you’re forced to buy a “parking disc” If cost is no concern, or if you can’t
or use a parking lot or garage. “Disc shake the fear of the left lane, you
parking” works like this: You buy a might want to consider being chauf-
paper disc (available in most news- feured in style. The fleets of such serv-
agents, many hotels, and in all the ices usually begin at ground level with
tourist offices) and display it on your a basic Mercedes sedan and stretch
windshield for the time you are parked from there. If you’re interested, con-
in a disc-appointed space. In Dublin a tact Carey Limousine International
five-pack of discs currently costs (& 800/336-4646; www.careyint.
€6.35 ($7.65); each disc has a maxi- com), whose 8-hour daily rate is cur-
mum of 3 hours of parking. rently around €525 ($633). We rec-
Multistory car parks in central ommend Bord Fáilte–approved Dave
Dublin average €2 ($2.40) per hour Sullivan Chauffeur Drive Limited
and €20 ($24) for 24 hours. Night (& 01/820-1076; fax 01/820-6333;
rates run €6 to €9 ($7.50–$11) per www.chauffeur.ie), with offices in
hour. In central Dublin, you’ll find car Dublin and Shannon. A typical 8-
parks on Kildare Street, Lower Abbey hour fee for two people in and around
Street, Marlborough Street, and St. Dublin will run about €420 ($506).
For larger parties, Chrysler Voyagers Additionally, because Ireland

are available. includes a number of must-see islands,
getting around includes getting on a
BY FERRY
boat now and then. Some boats,
The coast of Ireland is not so razor- including all major ferries, have official
straight as, say, the borders of Kansas. licenses and offer regular scheduled
A number of passenger and car ferries service. Sometimes, however, making a
cut across the wider bays, shaving crossing is a matter of staring out
hours off land-only driving times. Fer- across a body of water to where you
ries operate between Tarbert, County want to be and asking someone with a
Kerry, and Killimer, County Clare; boat to take you there. Both methods
Passage East, County Waterford, and work. To supplement the boat listings
Ballyhack, County Wexford; and in this guide, you might want to
Glenbrook, east of Cork City, and request a copy of Information Sheet
Carrigaloe, outside of Cobh. For 50C—Island Boat/Air Services—from
details, see chapter 10 (particularly the the Irish Tourist Board.
section on County Clare), chapter 6,
and chapter 7.
12 From Cottages to Castles: Putting a Roof over Your Head

In Ireland, a man’s (or woman’s) home ie) is a collection of upscale manor
is often quite literally a castle, and house hotels and castles.
some castles take in guests, becoming The governments of the Republic
homes away from homes for visitors. and of the North inspect and rate all
In fact, Ireland offers a remarkable approved hotels and guesthouses. In
array of accommodations, some quite the Republic, hotels can aspire to five
affordable and others outrageously stars, but guesthouses can reach no
lavish. There is something for every- higher than four. In the North, hotels
one, from families on a budget to receive one to four stars, and guest-
lovers on the splurge of a lifetime. houses are either grade A or grade B.
Here’s a sketch of what’s out there. In this guide, however, we use our
own system of zero to three stars for
HOTELS & GUESTHOUSES rating places to stay, based on quality
Be Our Guest, a comprehensive guide of amenities, atmosphere, and the
to the hotels, country houses, castles, most elusive, overall value for money.
and inns of Ireland, is published by Cost is only a factor in as much as it
the Irish Hotel Federation and is avail- affects value. For example, an expen-
able from the Irish Tourist Board. It’s sive hotel may rate only one star while
also online at www.irelandhotels. a moderately-priced guesthouse rates
com, which is a particularly handy, two stars if the guesthouse delivers an
searchable site. Hotels and guesthouses, exceptional experience for the money
depending on their size and scope, offer you’ll spend. See the “Where to Stay”
a good deal more than a bed and a sections throughout this book for rec-
meal—everything from nightclubs to ommendations.
children’s playrooms to golf courses.
Some were historic buildings in a for- BED & BREAKFASTS
mer life and others have been elegant Throughout Ireland, in cities and
hotels from birth, but there are plenty countryside, a huge number of private
that are nondescript. If you’re traveling homes are open to lodgers, by the
with a well-padded wallet, Ireland’s night or longer. A warm bed and a sub-
Blue Book (www.irelands-blue-book. stantial Irish breakfast can be expected,
P U T T I N G A R O O F OV E R YO U R H E A D 57
Spa Vacations
If healing, renewal, and healthful relaxation are a central goal of your
vacation, you might consider one of the centers, spas, or retreats
approved by the Health Farms of Ireland Association. For a brochure, con-
tact & 091/790606; fax 091/790837; www.healthfarmsofireland.com.
and other meals are negotiable. While NITB also sells a useful comprehen-
most B&Bs are regulated and inspected sive annual listing titled Where to Stay
by Tourism Quality Services (look for in Northern Ireland.
the shamrock seal of approval), approx-
imately 12,000 premises are under no THE HIDDEN IRELAND
external supervision. Regulated or not, The Hidden Ireland is essentially a
they are all different, as are your hosts. collection of very upscale B&Bs—
Note: Establishments without govern- think Town & Country with a brogue.
mental supervision or approval are not These are private houses offering visi-
necessarily inferior to those stamped tors the opportunity to sample Irish
with the green shamrock. Approval country life at its very best, in a style
involves an annual fee, as well as spe- not usually experienced by the ordi-
cific restrictions that some proprietors nary tourist. The properties include
prefer not to embrace. some of Ireland’s oldest and grandest
For a modest fee, the Irish Tourist buildings, many of particular architec-
Board will send you a detailed listing tural merit and character. A B&B for
of roughly 2,000 approved B&Bs, two people generally runs €120 to
complete with a color photo of each. €260 ($145–$313). To explore this
Or, you can follow the recommenda- option, contact The Hidden Ireland,
tions in this book. Needless to say, you P.O. Box 31, Westport, County Mayo
receive a personal touch when you stay (& 800/688-0299 in the U.S. or 01/
in someone’s home, and more often 662-7166; fax 01/662-7144; www.
than not, this is a real bonus. For any- hidden-ireland.com).
one on a budget who is touring the FARMHOUSE
country and spending only a night or ACCOMMODATIONS
two in each location, B&Bs are often Many of Ireland’s small, family-run
hard to beat. farms open their doors to visitors,
In high season it’s a good idea to offering an attractive alternative to
make your reservation at least 24 hotels, guesthouses, and more standard
hours in advance; your room will ordi- B&B homes, particularly for families
narily be held until 6pm. In a moder- with small children. The Irish Farm
ately priced B&B, the average cost for Holidays Association (www.irishfarm
a room with private bathroom is holidays.com) produces an annual
roughly €35 ($42) per person per guide to farmhouse accommodations
night. Obviously, some B&Bs charge throughout the country. It is available
less than this, and some charge more. from the Irish Tourist Board.
Note: More and more B&Bs accept Farm holidays can take various
credit cards, but some still do not. forms, from 1-night-at-a-time bed-
In the North, the Northern Ireland and-breakfasts to extended self-catering
Tourist Board inspects each of its rec- rentals. Many of the farmhouse accom-
ommended B&Bs annually. Its Infor- modations offer half board. That is, in
mation Guide to Bed & Breakfast is addition to breakfast, you can also have
available free from the NITB. The high tea or a full supper—but at an
extra cost. Some farmhouses are every- Several recommended self-catering

thing you could dream of—full work- companies offer especially attractive
ing family farms in untouched, often accommodations throughout Ireland,
spectacular surroundings—while oth- mostly along the coasts. One is Tri-
ers stretch the meaning of farm to dent Holiday Homes, 15 Irishtown
include country houses with a garden Rd., Irishtown, Dublin 4 (& 01/668-
and a dog nearby, or guesthouses that 3534; fax 01/660-6465; www.thh.ie).
are more “lodging with greenery” than For alluring seaside properties in west
“farm with lodging.” County Cork, try Cashelfean Holi-
day Houses, Durrus, County Cork
SELF-CATERING (& 027/62000; fax 027/62012; www.
If you want to stay a while and estab- cashelfean.com). In the west of Ire-
lish a base, you might want to con- land, from Kerry to Connemara, a
sider renting an apartment, town selection of traditional Irish cottages,
house, cottage, or castle. Self-catering fully equipped to meet modern expec-
is a huge business in Ireland, and the tations, is offered by Rent an Irish
range of available accommodations is Cottage PLC, 85 O’Connell St., Lim-
startling. The minimum rental period erick, County Limerick (& 061/
is usually 1 week, although shorter 411109; fax 061/314821; www.renta
periods are sometimes negotiable off cottage.ie). If you’re interested in sam-
season. For families or small groups, pling the rural lifestyle, there’s Irish
you can usually get the best bargains Country Holidays, Discovery Cen-
with self-catering options. tre, Rearcross, County Tipperary
In high season, in both the Repub- (& 062/79330; fax 062/79331; www.
lic and the North, a cottage sleeping country-holidays.ie), with properties
seven could cost anywhere from $250 all over Ireland.
to more than $2,000 per week. While Finally, for self-catering in any of
this guide does not focus on self-cater- Northern Ireland’s areas of outstanding
ing, you will find a scattering of spe- natural beauty, there is one surefire rec-
cific recommendations in the chapters ommendation: Rural Cottage Holi-
that follow. Both the Irish Tourist days Ltd., St. Anne’s Court, 59 North
Board and the Northern Ireland St., Belfast BT1 1NB (& 028/9024-
Tourist Board prepare helpful annual 1100; fax 028/9024-1100; www.rural
guides to self-catering. cottageholidays.com). Founded in
Moments Keys to the Castle

Dream of spending your vacation like a king or queen? Two companies
specialize in self-catering accommodations in Ireland’s historic and archi-
tecturally significant properties—including elegant Georgian manor
houses, stately country mansions, lighthouses, and castles. The Irish Land-
mark Trust, 25 Eustace St., Dublin 2 (& 01/670-4733; fax 01/670-4887;
www.irishlandmark.com), rescues historic but neglected properties all
over the island and restores them into fabulous hideaways, complete with
period furnishings. It’s a not-for-profit institution, so prices are hard to
beat. Elegant Ireland, 15 Harcourt St., Dublin 2 (& 01/475-1632; fax 01/
475-1012; www.elegant.ie), can put you up in anything from an upscale sea-
side bungalow to a medieval castle that sleeps 20. As most properties are
privately owned, they are priced according to what the market will bear.
Bargains are harder to come by, and deals are more likely in the off season.
P U T T I N G A R O O F OV E R YO U R H E A D 59
Tips Think Green

ECEAT, the European Centre for Eco Agro Tourism, was established in 1993
to foster small-scale, sustainable green tourism throughout Europe. Their
guides currently offer 1,200 select sites—farms, natural campsites, guest-
houses, and small hotels in 21 countries—committed to the preservation
of natural and cultural landscapes. Look for a copy of The Green Holiday
Guides: Great Britain and Ireland in bookstores, or contact the Ireland
coordinator, Margaret Hedge, Triskel Flower Farm, Cloonagh, Beltra,
County Sligo (& 071/66714).
1994 by the Northern Irish Tourist several hostels in particular offer pri-
Board, Rural Cottage Holidays has vate rooms for couples and families,
restored and refurbished more than 30 some with private bathrooms. Before
traditional homes of character and you dismiss this option, explore the
charm, and done so with remarkable website and see if you can believe the
care and style. Each of these gems is views and the prices.
in an area of special beauty and inter- The corresponding organization in
est and is hosted by a nearby local the North, whose hostels are main-
family. tained to a very high standard, is
YHANI (Youth Hostels Association of
YOUTH HOSTELS Northern Ireland), 22–32 Donegall
Ordinarily, youth hostels fall beyond Rd., Belfast BT12 5JN (& 028/9032-
the scope of what we recommend in 4733; fax 028/90439699; www.hini.
this book. You should be aware, how- org.uk). When you come across
ever, that some Irish hostels are broad- related references to HINI (Hostelling
ening their scope and redesigning International Northern Ireland), don’t
their accommodations to welcome be confused. It’s another name for the
travelers of all ages, as well as families. same organization.
Some of these, although they cost a
fraction of even a modest bed-and- BOTTOM LINE ON BEDS
breakfast, provide remarkably appeal- RATES Room charges quoted in
ing accommodations. In fact, with this guide include 13.5% government
sufficient notice, the Irish Youth Hos- tax (VAT) in the Republic of Ireland
tel Association is able to rent some and 17.5% VAT in Northern Ireland.
entire hostels to clubs or groups at They do not (unless otherwise noted)
remarkably reasonable rates. include service charges, which are usu-
An Óige, the Irish Youth Hostel ally between 10% and 15%. Most
Association, 61 Mountjoy St., Dublin hotels and guesthouses automatically
7 (& 01/830-4555; fax 01/830-5808; add the service charge onto your final
www.irelandyha.org), is the place to bill, although in recent years many
begin your planning. At one time, family-run or limited-service places
anyone showing up at an Irish Youth have begun the practice of not charg-
Hostel in a car was turned away. But ing for service, leaving it as an option
that was then. The net has widened for the guest. Home-style B&Bs do
considerably. These places are some- not ordinarily charge for service.
times hard to get to and very hard to The price categories used through-
leave. Most often located in drop- out this guide indicate the cost of a
dead-beautiful spots and housed in double room for two per night,
former residences of real character, including tax but not service charges:
Very Expensive: €250 ($301) lower than the toll-free rate. This
and up is a particularly good way to land
Expensive: €200 to €250 a luxury hotel room for less.
($240–$301) • Haggle. If you have a talent for
Moderate: €100 to €200 haggling, room prices in hotels—
($120–$240) especially privately owned hotels
Inexpensive: Under €100 ($120) in the off season—are often nego-
Note: Many accommodations span tiable. Your best bet is to politely
more than one of these categories, and ask, “Is that your best rate?” or,
in those cases, we’ve done our best to “Can you do a little bit better?”
assign each to the category that best • Use a consolidator. Just like with
represents its characteristic rates in airfares, you can often save money
high season. on hotel accommodations if you
Ordinarily, the Irish cite the per- go through a middleman. On the
person price of a double room—a pol- Web, try www.hotelsireland.net
icy not followed in this guide, which for savings of up to 50% on rack
for the sake of uniform comparison rates (published rates) for two- to
assumes double occupancy. Most five-star hotels across Ireland.
accommodations make adjustments TERMINOLOGY The Irish use
for children. Children staying in their the phrase “en suite” to indicate a
parent’s room are usually charged at room with private bathroom. A “dou-
20% to 50% of the adult rate. If you’re ble” has a double bed, and a “twin” has
traveling on your own, there is most two single beds. An “orthopedic” bed
often a supplemental charge for single has an extra-firm mattress. Queen-
occupancy of a double room. and king-size beds are not common
except in large, deluxe hotels.
F I V E W AY S T O S AV E
• Spend more than 1 night. Most RESERVATIONS It usually pays to
Irish hotels, and many B&Bs, book in advance before you leave
offer midweek and weekend home. Many hotels can be booked
breaks. A 2-day break typically through toll-free numbers in the
includes both nights bed and United States, and the quoted prices
breakfast plus one dinner; a 3-day offered can be appreciably (as much as
break typically includes 3 nights 40%) lower than those offered at the
bed and breakfast plus two din- door. For properties that do not have a
ners. The savings can be 25% to U.S. reservation number, the fastest
30% off the rack rate, and you get way to reserve is by telephone, fax, or
a free evening meal or two to e-mail. Fax and e-mail are advisable,
boot. You do the math. because they give you a written confir-
• Book from home. If your desired mation. You can then follow up by
hotel has a toll-free number in the sending a deposit check (usually the
United States, get a quote and equivalent of 1 night’s room rate) or
compare it to what the hotel’s by giving your credit card number.
front desk offers. Nine times out If you arrive in Ireland without a
of 10, the toll-free number’s rate reservation, the staff members at the
will be substantially lower than tourist offices throughout the Republic
that offered at the door. and Northern Ireland will gladly find
• Book online. Increasingly, hotels you a room using a computerized reser-
are offering unsold rooms at deep vation service known as Gulliver. In
discounts, particularly if you’re Ireland or Northern Ireland, you can
booking last minute. Nine times also call the Gulliver line directly
out of 10, the online rate will be (& 00800/668-668-66). This is a
T I P S O N R E S TA U R A N T S & P U B S 61
nationwide and cross-border “free- which can approach boarding-house

phone” facility for credit card bookings, standards even in a semiluxurious
operated daily 8am to 11pm. Gulliver hotel. Don’t be discouraged by this,
is also accessible from the United States but know what you’re getting into so
(& 011-800/668-668-66) and on the you’re not disappointed. If you have
Web at www.gulliver.ie. complaints, state them at once and
QUALITY & VALUE Despite the unambiguously—doing so may bring
various systems of approval, regula- an immediate resolution (perhaps a
tion, and rating, accommodations in lower rate or a better room).
Ireland are quite uneven in quality Note: Many lodgings close for a few
and cost. Often these variations are days or more on and around Christ-
due to location; a wonderful, budget mas, even when they announce that
B&B in an isolated area of country- they are open year-round. If you plan
side can be dirt cheap, whereas a to visit Ireland during the Christmas
mediocre guesthouse in Dublin or holidays, double-check that the hotels,
Cork can cost a comparative ransom. restaurants, and attractions you’re
If possible, always ask to see your counting on will be open. In this
room before committing yourself to a guide, what is true on Sundays is
stay. In any given lodging, the size and nearly always true on bank holidays.
quality of the rooms can vary consid- And be aware that only the most
erably, often without any correspon- expensive hotels have air-condition-
ding variation in cost. This is ing—but there are only a handful of
particularly true of single rooms, days a year when you would want it.
13 Tips on Restaurants & Pubs

RESTAURANTS Sun lunch) are often booked a week or
Ireland has an admirable range of more in advance, so have a few
restaurants in all price categories. The options in mind if you’re booking at
settings range from old-world hotel the last minute and want to try out the
dining rooms, country mansions, and hot spots in town.
castles to sky-lit terraces, shop-front Here’s a tip for those who don’t
bistros, riverside cottages, thatched- mind dining early: If you stop into or
roof pubs, and converted chapels. Best phone a restaurant and find that it is
of all, there is a new appreciation for booked from 8 or 8:30pm onward,
creative cooking in Ireland, with an ask if you can dine early (at 6:30 or
emphasis on ingredients that are fresh 7pm), with a promise to leave by 8pm.
(often organic), varied, and delicious. You will sometimes get a table. Quite
Before you book a table, here are a a few restaurants are experimenting
few things you should know: with lower-priced early-bird and
RESERVATIONS Except for self- pretheater menus to attract people for
service eateries, informal cafes, and early evening seating.
some popular seafood spots, most TABLE D’HOTE OR A LA CARTE
restaurants encourage reservations. It’s a growing trend for restaurants to
The more expensive restaurants offer two menus: table d’hôte, a fixed-
absolutely require reservations because price three- or four-course lunch or
there is little turnover—once a table is dinner with a variety of choices; and a
booked, it is yours for the whole lunch la carte, a menu offering a wide choice
period or for the evening until closing. of individually priced appetizers
In the most popular eateries, seatings (starters), soups, main courses, salads
for Friday and Saturday nights (and or vegetables, and desserts (sweets).
Value Dining Bargains

Restaurant prices in Ireland have gone up dramatically––in many cases by
20% to 25%––in recent years. Nobody is more aware of this than the Irish
themselves, who are furious. Some people blame the price hikes on the
changeover from the punt to the euro, some blame general inflation, and
still others cite bold-faced greed on the part of restaurateurs. But there
are some strategies you can use to keep your meal costs down:
If you want to try a top-rated restaurant but can’t afford dinner, have
your main meal there in the middle of the day by trying the table d’hôte
set-lunch menu. You’ll experience the same great cuisine at half the price
of a nighttime meal.
Some restaurants offer a fixed-price three-course tourist menu during
certain hours and days. These menus offer limited choices but are usually
lower in price than the restaurant’s regular table d’hôte menu. Look for a
tourist menu with a green Irish chef symbol in the window, listing the
choices and the hours when the prices are in effect.
As a final suggestion, try an inexpensive lunch of pub grub. Pub grub is
usually a lot better than its name suggests; the menu usually includes
sandwiches, stews, quiches, and salads. In recent years, many pubs have
converted or expanded into restaurants, serving excellent, unpretentious
meals at prices to which you can lift a pint.
With the former, you pay the set an appropriate amount that will total
price whether you take each course or 15% if service has been satisfactory.
not. If you do take each course, the The price categories used in this
total price offers very good value. With book are based on the price of a com-
the latter, you choose what you want plete dinner (or lunch, if dinner is not
and pay accordingly. If you are a salad- served) for one person, including tax
and-entree person, then a la carte will and tip, but not wine or alcoholic
probably work out to be less expensive; beverages:
if you want all the courses and the Very Expensive: €50 ($60) and up
trimmings, stick with the table d’hôte.
Expensive: €35 to €50 ($42–$60)
PRICES Meal prices at restaurants
include a 13.5% VAT in the Republic Moderate: €17 to €34 ($21–$42)
of Ireland and a 17.5% VAT in North- Inexpensive: Under €17 ($21)
ern Ireland, but the service charge is DINING TIPS Don’t be surprised
extra. In perhaps half of all restaurants, if you are not ushered to your table as
a set service charge is added automati- soon as you arrive at a restaurant. This
cally; it can range from 10% to 15%. In is not a delaying tactic—many of the
the remaining restaurants, it is now the better dining rooms carry on the old
custom not to add any service charge, custom of seating you in a lounge or
leaving the tip to your discretion. This bar area while you sip an aperitif and
can be confusing for a visitor, but each peruse the menu. Your waiter then
restaurant normally prints its policy on comes to discuss the choices and to
the menu. If it is not clear, ask. take your order. You are not called to
When no service charge is added, the table until the first course is about
tip up to 15% depending on the qual- to be served.
ity of the service. If 10% to 12.5% has Happily, for those fond of a beer
already been added to your bill, leave with a meal, Ireland recently relaxed its
TIPS ON SIGHTSEEING & SHOPING 63
liquor laws. Restaurants are now per- Nesbitt, or W. Ryan. A good percent-
mitted to serve beer with meals (previ- age of these have been in the same fam-
ously they could only serve wine). ily for generations. Although they
might have added televisions, pool
PUBS tables, dartboards, or nightly music
The pub continues to be a mainstay of sessions, their primary purpose is still
Irish social life. With more than to be a stage for conversation and a
10,000 specimens throughout the warm spot to down a pint.
country, there are pubs in every city,
town, and hamlet, on every street and PUB HOURS The Republic of Ire-
at every turn. Everyone has a “local”— land’s drinking hours were extended in
a favorite pub near home—where he the year 2000, a mere 2 centuries after
or she goes for a drink and some con- they were introduced. Hours are
versation. But there is a big distinction 10:30am to 11:30pm Monday to
between the way the Irish use their Wednesday, 10:30am to 12:30am
pubs and the way, say, the French use Thursday to Saturday, and 12:30 to
cafes. Whereas the French hang out in 11pm Sunday (pubs previously had to
cafes day or night, a recent study con- close between 2–4pm). After normal
ducted by the Vintners’ Federation of drinking hours, there are always night-
Ireland revealed that 80% of drinkers clubs and discos, which close at 3am.
do not go to the pub until after 9pm. You’ll notice that when the dreaded
The origin of pubs reaches back sev- “closing time” comes, nobody clears
eral centuries to a time when neighbors out of the pub. That’s because the
would gather in a kitchen to talk and term is a misnomer. The “closing
maybe sample some home brew. As a time” is actually the time when the
certain spot grew popular, word spread barmen must stop serving alcohol, so
and people came from all directions, expect to hear a shout for “Last
always assured of a warm welcome. orders!” Anyone who wants to order
Such places gradually became known his or her last drink does so, and the
as public houses—”pubs,” for short. In bars don’t actually shut their doors
time, the name of the person who until up to an hour later.
tended a public house was mounted In the North, pubs are open year-
over the doorway, and many pubs still round from 11:30am to 11pm Mon-
bear a family or proprietor’s name, day to Saturday, and 12:30 to 2pm
such as Davy Byrnes, Doheny and and 7 to 10pm on Sunday.
14 Tips on Sightseeing & Shopping

SIGHTSEEING DISCOUNTS family. There are three ways to get the
Sightseeing on a budget? You can card: You can buy it at any of the par-
stretch a dollar (or a euro) by saving on ticipating attractions; you can pur-
admission charges at major attractions. chase it by phone (& 1800-600601
In the Republic, a Heritage Card toll-free in Ireland or 01/647-2461)
entitles you to unlimited admission to with your Visa or MasterCard; or you
the more than 65 attractions all over can order it on the Web at www.
Ireland operated by Dúchas, the Her- heritageireland.ie. If you plan to do
itage Service. These include castles, serious sightseeing, this is a wise pur-
stately homes, historic monuments, chase. It’s far more pleasant to pick up
national parks, and more. The card one of these cards the first time you
costs €19 ($23) for adults, €13 ($16) visit a Heritage site than to realize a
for seniors, €7.60 ($9.15) for children week later how much you would have
and students, and €46 ($55) for a saved if you had.
Tips Closing Times

At many sights and attractions, new visitors are not admitted 30 minutes
prior to the stated closing time. So don’t plan to slip into a museum or cas-
tle at 4:40pm when it officially closes at 5pm.
Detailed information about Ireland. The VAT desk is in the

National Trust attractions in Northern departures hall at Dublin Airport
Ireland is available from the Northern and in the arrivals hall at Shannon
Ireland Tourist Board. airport. If you’re running late at
the airport, you can have the
VAT REFUNDS checks stamped by Customs and
First, the bad news: In Ireland, almost mail them to Global Refund in an
all consumer products are subject to international prepaid envelope.
value-added tax—better known as Finally, if you forget to get your
VAT—of 21% on the net price of checks stamped at Customs, all is
goods, which is roughly 17% of the not lost. Just get them stamped by
selling price. Now, the good news: If either a notary public, justice of
you’re not a citizen of an E.U. country, the peace, or a police officer (with
you are entitled to this money back. a badge number) in your home
The first thing you should know is country, and mail them back.
that VAT is a “hidden tax”—it’s
already added into the purchase price What if the shop isn’t part of the
of any items you see in shops. (The Global Refund network? For a store
two notable exceptions: no VAT on refund, get a full receipt at the time of
books and no VAT on children’s cloth- purchase that shows the shop’s name,
ing and footwear). address, and VAT paid. (Customs does
There are two ways to get your not accept generic cash-register tally
money back: slips.) Save your receipts until you’re
Global Refund (& 800/566-9828; ready to depart Ireland, then go to the
www.globalrefund.ie) is the world’s Customs Office at the airport or ferry
largest private company offering VAT port to have your receipts stamped
refunds, with more than 5,000 stores and your goods inspected. A passport
in Ireland displaying TAX FREE FOR and other forms of identification (a
TOURISTS stickers in their front win-
driver’s license, for example) may be
dows. Unlike all other E.U. countries, required. Then send your stamped
Ireland requires no minimum purchase receipts back to the store where you
in a single store. The system works like made the purchase, which will then
this: issue a VAT refund check to you by
mail to your home address. Most
Step 1: Collect refund checks at stores deduct a small handling fee for
every store where you make a pur- this service.
chase.
Step 2: Fill in the blanks (name, AV O I D I N G T H E VAT H A S S L E
address, passport number, and so Don’t want to fill out those forms? Hate
on) on the checks, noting whether the thought of lining up at the airport
you’d like your refund in cash or refund desk? There are three ways to
on a credit card. pay no VAT from the beginning.
Step 3: Hand in your completed • Mail your purchases home.
checks to the VAT-refund desk at Arrange for the store to ship your
the airport just before departing purchases home, and the VAT will
T R AC I N G YO U R I R I S H R O OT S 65
be subtracted at the point of sale. prices that are free of duty or tax.
You save having to fill out those There are no forms to fill out and
forms, and you don’t have to lug no lines to reclaim money. The
around your stuff. But you still main drawback is the very limited
have to pay shipping costs, which variety of goods compared to the
may outweigh any hassle you save. shops around Ireland.
• Buy at the airport. When return- • Support a good cause. Ireland’s
ing home from Ireland, non-E.U. nonprofit organizations that sell
citizens are entitled to shop in the goods operate as charitable trusts
duty-free shops at Shannon and and are not subject to VAT, so all
Dublin airports. If you’re flying on their prices are VAT-free. Check
Aer Lingus, you can also shop out Oxfam shops (www.oxfam
onboard at the airline’s “Duty- ireland.org) for pottery and other
Free Sky Shop.” These shops offer trendy housewares.
15 Tracing Your Irish Roots

Whether your name is Kelly or Klein, its U.K. and Ireland records collection,
you might have some ancestral ties which includes New York Port Arrival
with Ireland—about 40 million Records containing passenger lists
Americans do. If you are planning to from the great Irish immigration
visit Ireland to trace your roots, you’ll period between 1846 and 1851. The
enjoy the greatest success if you do collection also offers parish and pro-
some planning. The more information bate records from 1538 through 1837,
you can gather about your family as well as numerous U.S. immigration
before your visit, the easier it will be to and naturalization records. Finally,
find your ancestral home or even a dis- take a look at www.genealogy.com for
tant cousin once you arrive. more online help.
One of the best places to start is the Getting specific to Ireland, the
Church of Latter Day Saints, in Salt principal online resources for any
Lake City, Utah (& 801/240-2331; search should be the Irish National
fax 801/240-5551; www.familysearch. Archives (www.nationalarchives.ie),
org), keepers of the world’s largest which holds online searchable data-
family history library. For archives of bases of Ireland’s vital records. In addi-
ancestors who were born, died, or tion, the Irish Tourist Board publishes
were married in the United States, a book called Tracing Your Ancestors in
check out the searchable databases of Ireland, which outlines the range of
the National Archives and Records resources for genealogical research in
Administration (www.nara.gov). Dublin, as well as throughout the
Another excellent, searchable online island, and helps you get started. It’s
genealogy aid is www.ancestry.com for
Moments Planning an Irish Wedding

For those with Irish roots, getting married on the auld sod has become an
extremely popular, romantic way to kick off your new life together. The
basic requirements for getting married in Ireland can be found on the
Dublin info page on the U.S. Embassy website at http://dublin.usembassy.
gov/ireland/marriage.html. For help finding the perfect church, reception
hall, florist, and band, visit www.wedding-ireland.com or www.weddings
online.ie.
free of charge at any Irish Tourist includes trade directories, journals of

Board office. historical and archaeological societies,
A brand-new, excellent genealogy local histories, and newspapers. In
resource covering all 32 counties on addition, the library has a comprehen-
the island is the Irish Family History sive indexing system that enables you
Foundation’s new Internet site at to identify the material you need to
www.irishroots.net. Much of the consult.
archived information is free for your As mentioned above, The National
perusal, or you can hire researchers to Archives, Bishop Street, Dublin 8
do the work for you. Initial searches (& 01/407-2300; fax 01/407-2333;
cost €75 ($90) and comprehensive www.nationalarchives.ie), is a key
family searches cost €250 ($301). resource. Until 1988 it was known as
In Ireland, you can do the research the Public Record Office. A fire
and footwork yourself, or you can use severely damaged this facility in the
the services of a commercial agency. early 1920s, and many valuable source
One of the best firms is Hibernian documents were lost. However,
Research Co., P.O. Box 3097, Dublin numerous records rich in genealogical
6 (& 01/496-6522; fax 01/497- interest are still available. They
3011). The researchers, all trained by include Griffith’s Primary Valuation of
the Chief Herald of Ireland, have a Ireland, 1848–63, which records the
combined total of more than 100 names of all those owning or occupy-
years’ professional experience in working land or property in Ireland at the
ing on all aspects of family histories. time; the complete national census of
Among the cases that Hibernian 1901 to 1911; and tithe listings,
Research handled were U.S. president indexes to wills, administrations,
Ronald Reagan, Canadian prime min- licenses, and marriage bonds. In addi-
ister Brian Mulrooney, and Ireland’s tion, there is also an ever-expanding
former president, Mary Robinson. collection of Church of Ireland Parish
ENECLANN, Trinity College Enter- Registers on microfilm. You’ll also
prise Centre, Pearse St., Dublin 2 find partial surviving census returns
(& 01/671-0338; fax 01/671-0281; for the 19th century, reports and
www.eneclann.ie), is an award-win- records relating to the period of the
ning company specializing in histori- 1798 rebellion, crime and convict
cal and heritage records. Rates run records, and details of those sentenced
from €160 ($193) for an exploratory to transportation to Australia. There is
search, but the average search is €300 no fee for conducting personal
($362). searches for family history and geneal-
If you prefer to do the digging ogy in the archives, and an instruction
yourself, Dublin City is the location booklet is provided to get you started.
for all the Republic of Ireland’s cen- There is a fee for photocopies. The
tralized genealogical records, and National Archives reading room is
Belfast is the place to go for Ulster open Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm.
ancestral hunts. Here are the major The Genealogical Office, Kildare
sources of information: Street, Dublin (& 01/603-0311; fax
The Manuscripts Reading Room in 01/662-1062), attached to the
the National Library, Kildare Street, National Library, incorporates the
Dublin 2 (& 01/603-0200; fax 01/ office of the Chief Herald and oper-
676-6690; www.nli.ie), has an exten- ates a specialist consultation service on
sive collection of pre-1880 Catholic how to trace your ancestry. The library
records of baptisms, births, and mar- no longer offers an in-house
riages. Its other genealogical material researcher, but its Web page
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 67
(www.nli.ie/fr_offi.htm) lists dozens North of the border, The Public

of professional researchers who can be Record Office of Northern Ireland,
hired for a fee. 66 Balmoral Ave., Belfast BT9 6NY
The General Register Office, (& 028/9025-1318; fax 028/9025-
Joyce House, 8–11 Lombard St. E., 5999; http://proni.nics.gov.uk), has
Dublin 2 (& 01/635-4000; www.gro most of the surviving official records of
ireland.ie), is the central repository for Northern Ireland. They include tithe
records relating to births, deaths, and and valuation records from the 1820s
marriages in the Republic (Catholic and 1830s, copies of wills from 1858
marriages from Jan 1, 1864; all other for Ulster, the records of many landed
marriages from Apr 1, 1845). Full estates in Ulster, and copies of most
birth, death, or marriage certificates pre-1900 registers of baptisms, mar-
each cost €7 ($8.45). General riages, and burial papers for all denom-
searches cost €15 ($18). The office is inations in Ulster. The office is open
open weekdays from 9:30am to weekdays 9:15am to 4:45pm (until
12:30pm and 2:15 to 4:30pm. 8:45pm on Thurs; closed for 2 weeks
The Registry of Deeds, Kings Inns, in late Nov). The website has a useful
Henrietta Street, Dublin 1 (& 01/ section entitled “How to Trace Your
670-7500; fax 01/804-8406; www.irl Family Tree,” accessible through the
gov.ie/landreg), has records that date “Frequently Asked Questions” rubric.
from 1708 and relate to all the usual For post-1900 birth, marriage, and
transactions affecting property— death certificates, contact the General
notably leases, mortgages, and settle- Register Office Northern Ireland,
ments—and some wills. The fee of Oxford House, 49–55 Chichester St.,
€13 ($16) per day includes instruc- Belfast BT1 4HC (& 028/1232-
tions on how to handle the indexes. 251318).
16 Suggested Itineraries
To make the rounds of Ireland, north 1 Week—East Coast: Dublin (3),
and south, you’ll need at least 2 Wicklow Mountains (1), Kilkenny
weeks—or, better, 3 weeks. With even (1), Waterford (1), Wexford (1).
a week, however, you can convince 1 Week—West Coast: Sligo, Mayo,
yourself and others you’ve been there. and Connemara (2), Galway (2),
Here are a few recommended itin- Clare (1), Kerry (2).
eraries, with the number of days sug-
gested for each city or touring center 1 Week—The Northwest: Galway
indicated in parentheses. Each tour (2), Sligo, Mayo, and Connemara (2),
starts or finishes near Shannon or Donegal (2), Clare (1).
Dublin, the two main arrival and 1 Week—The North: Newcastle (1),
departure points. You can ask your Belfast (2), Antrim Coast (2), Derry
travel agent to design a trip based on (1), Enniskillen (1).
your interests or on the amount of 2 Weeks: The Coastal Circuit: Shan-
time you can spend. non (1), Kerry (2), West Cork (1),
1 Week—Southern Coast: Clare (1), Cork City (1), Dublin (2), Belfast (2),
Kerry (2), Cork (2), Wexford (1), Donegal (2), Sligo, Mayo, and Con-
Dublin (1). nemara (2), Galway (1).
1 Week—Main Highlights: Galway 3 Weeks—The Complete Tour:
(1), Clare (1), Kerry (1), Cork (1), Clare (1), Kerry (2), Cork (2),
Waterford (1), Dublin (2). Kilkenny (1), Waterford or Wexford
Tips Navigator Par Excellence

One nifty little travel aid is the “Route Planning” facility offered by Ire-
land’s AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie). You simply plug in your
starting point and destination, with as many places in between that you’d
like to visit. You can also avoid the rush or save money by specifying that
you’d like to “avoid motorways” or “avoid toll roads,” respectively. The
route planner then spits out a detailed itinerary that anyone can follow.
(1), Dublin (3), Belfast (2), Portrush trip. In fact, choosing one city and its
(1), Derry or Enniskillen (1), Donegal surrounding regions is probably the
(2), Sligo, Mayo, and Connemara (3), most enjoyable option, as it allows you
Galway (2). to take advantage of the city’s ameni-
All of the above itineraries describe ties and also spend time in the coun-
circles, which are not for everyone. tryside and seaside. Whether you
When time is scarce, many people pre- decide to tour or to stay put might
fer to settle into one place for a week depend on whether you’re primarily in
and reach out from there. This is the search of sights or a sense of place.
“hub” plan, a viable alternative to the You’ll see more sights while moving
7-day dash. If it’s your first time in Ire- around, but you’ll likely feel like you
land, Dublin, Cork, and Galway make got to know Ireland if you give your-
great hubs. Don’t feel like you have to self time to simply observe and reflect.
see all three of those cities in the same
17 Recommended Reading
FICTION An excellent companion for any
If you’re especially ambitious, you book-loving traveler is For the Love of
could bite off James Joyce’s Ulysses Ireland: A Literary Companion for
(Random House, 1986), a classic to be Readers and Travelers (Ballantine,
certain, but one that’s so dense with 2001), an anthology of more than 60
insider lexicon that you’d also better writings by over 40 top-notch authors
pack Cliffs Notes. Better yet, try Ulysses that’s chockablock with geographic,
Annotated (University of California sociological, literary, and cultural rich-
Press, 1989), which helps explain ness. Contributors include James
Joyce’s puns, foreign expressions, and Joyce, Roddy Doyle, Samuel Beckett,
Dublin vernacular. Or dive into the W. B. Yeats, Edna O’Brien, Seamus
plays of Brendan Behan with Behan Heaney, and Frank McCourt. The
Complete Plays (Methuen, 2001). book suggests excursions in 16 coun-
The current king of Irish contempo- ties and includes pertinent travel
rary writing is Roddy Doyle, and any details, such as the current schedule
of his novels makes for excellent enter- for the ferry that Sean O’Faolain
tainment. There’s The Barrytown Tril- described 50 years ago in An Irish
ogy, which includes The Commitments, Journey.
The Snapper, and The Van (Penguin,
1995); the Booker prize–winning
POETRY
If you like poetry, you’ve come to the
Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha (Penguin,
right country. In the past 2 centuries,
1995); and A Star Called Henry (Pen-
Ireland has produced arguably the best
guin, 2000).
FA S T FA C T S : I R E L A N D 69
stable of poets in the world. Start with of Discovery in the West of Ireland by
Collected Poems by Patrick Kavanagh BBC writer and performer Pete
(W.W. Norton, 1973), Nobel Prize– McCarthy (St. Martin’s, 2001).
winning Seamus Heaney’s Opened McCarthy’s knack for affectionately
Ground: Selected Poems 1966–1996 retelling a hearty, side-splitting yarn
(Farrar, Strauss & Giroux, 1999), and, rivals that of essayists like P. J.
of course, The Collected Poems of W. B. O’Rourke, Peter Mayle, and Bill
Yeats (Scribner, 1996), by the famous Bryson. Small wonder that it was a
honorary Irish poet. number-one bestseller in Ireland.
AUTOBIOGRAPHY HISTORY
Many are familiar with Angela’s Ashes How the Irish Saved Civilization
(Simon & Schuster, 1996), Frank (Anchor, 1996), by Thomas Cahill,
McCourt’s award-winning childhood tells of a crucial window in European
memoir of growing up in Limerick in history after the fall of the Roman
the 1940s and 1950s. It’s a poignant, Empire. When Europeans languished,
heartbreaking, but often hilarious Irish scholars were instrumental in
account of a family’s struggle through saving literature, especially the Gospel,
alcoholism and poverty in Ireland, and and became not only the conservators
one that will resonate with you long of civilization, but also the shapers
after you put it down. It was, however, of the medieval mind, putting their
received with mixed reaction by the unique stamp on Western culture.
citizens of Limerick because it por- Two excellent books by Tim Pat
trayed their hometown in a very unfa- Coogan, The Irish Civil War (Seven
vorable light. Rest assured that the Dials, 2001), and The Troubles: Ire-
Limerick of today is a far more pros- land’s Ordeal 1966–1996 and the
perous, hospitable place. Search for Peace (National Book Net-
For a humorous travelogue of one work, 1997), are essential reading for
man’s meanderings around Ireland, anyone wanting to understand the
don’t miss McCarthy’s Bar: A Journey complexities of 21st-century Ireland.
FAST FACTS: Ireland

American Express The only American Express offices in Ireland are in
Dublin at 41 Nassau St. (& 1890/205511) and Killarney on East Avenue
Road (& 066/35722). There are no longer offices in the North. In an
emergency, traveler’s checks can be reported lost or stolen by dialing col-
lect (to the U.S.) & 00-1-336-333-3211.
Business Hours Banks are open 10am to 4pm Monday to Wednesday and
Friday, and 10am to 5pm Thursday.
Post offices (known as An Post) in city centers are open from 9am to
5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1:30pm Saturday. The GPO on
O’Connell Street is open 8am to 8pm Monday to Saturday, and 10:30am
to 6:30pm Sunday (for stamps only). Post offices in small towns often
close for lunch from 1 to 2:30pm.
Museums and sights are generally open 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Sat-
urday, and 2 to 5pm Sunday.
Shops generally open 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, with late open-
ing on Thursday until 7 or 8pm. In Dublin’s city center, most department
stores and many shops are open noon to 6pm Sunday.
In Northern Ireland, bank hours are Monday to Friday 9:30am to
4.30pm. Post offices are open 9:30am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and
Saturday 9am to 1pm. Some in smaller towns close for an hour at
lunchtime. Shopping hours are much the same as in the Republic with
some smaller shops closing for an hour at lunchtime.
Currency Exchange Currency-exchange services, signposted as BUREAU DE
CHANGE, are in all banks and at many branches of the Irish post-office sys-
tem, known as An Post. A bureau de change operates daily during flight
arrival and departure times at Dublin Airport; a foreign currency note-
exchanger machine is also available on a 24-hour basis in the upstairs
level of the main arrivals hall. Many hotels and travel agencies offer cur-
rency exchange services, although the best rate of exchange is usually
given by ATMs and credit cards for purchases.
Dentists For listings, look under “Dental Surgeons” in the Golden Pages
(Yellow Pages) of the Irish telephone book or in the Yellow Pages of the
Northern Ireland telephone book—or better yet, ask your innkeeper for
advice. Expect to pay upfront. In Dublin the American Embassy (see
“Embassies & Consulates,” below) can provide a list of dentists in the city
and surrounding areas.
Doctors If you need to see a physician, most hotels and guesthouses will
contact a doctor for you. (You will also find referral services for the
greater Dublin area listed in “Fast Facts: Dublin” in chapter 4.) Otherwise,
consult the Golden Pages of the Irish telephone book or the Yellow Pages
of the Northern Ireland telephone book. As with dentists, expect to pay
for treatment upfront and then contact your insurance company when
you return home to see if you are eligible for reimbursement. In Dublin
the American Embassy (see “Embassies & Consulates,” below) can provide
a list of doctors in the city and surrounding areas.
Drugstores Drugstores are called “chemist shops” and are found in every
city, town, and village. Look under “Chemists—Pharmaceutical” in the
Golden Pages of the Irish telephone book or “Chemists—Dispensing” in
the Yellow Pages of the Northern Ireland telephone book.
Electricity The Irish electric system operates on 220 volts with a plug
bearing three rectangular prongs. The Northern Irish system operates on
250 volts. To use standard American 110-volt appliances, you’ll need both
a transformer and a plug adapter. Most new laptops have built-in trans-
formers, but some do not, so beware. Attempting to use only a plug
adapter is a sure way to fry your appliance or, worse, cause a fire.
Embassies & Consulates The American Embassy is at 42 Elgin Rd., Balls-
bridge, Dublin 4 (& 01/668-8777); the Canadian Embassy at 65–68 St.
Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 (& 01/678-1988); the British Embassy at 31
Merrion Rd., Dublin 2 (& 01/205-3700); and the Australian Embassy at
Fitzwilton House, Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2 (& 01/676-1517). In addition,
there is an American Consulate at 14 Queen St., Belfast BT1 6EQ (& 028/
9032-8239).
Emergencies For the Garda (police), fire, or other emergencies, dial

& 999.
Internet Access Public access terminals are no longer hard to find in Ire-
land; they’re now in shopping malls, hotels, and even hostels, especially
in the larger towns and more tourist-centered areas. Virtually every town
with a public library offers free Internet access, though you may have to
call ahead to reserve time on a PC. (For a list of public libraries in Ireland,
visit www.libdex.com/country/Ireland.html.) Additionally, there are an
increasing number of Internet cafes sprouting up across the island. We list
many of these in the chapters that follow.
Language See the “Language” section in Appendix A, “Ireland in
Depth.”
Liquor Laws Individuals must be age 18 or over to be served alcoholic
beverages in Ireland. For pub hours, see “Tips on Restaurants & Pubs,”
earlier in this chapter. Restaurants with liquor licenses are permitted to
serve alcohol during the hours when meals are served. Hotels and guest-
houses with licenses can serve during normal hours to the public;
overnight guests, referred to as “residents,” can be served after closing
hours. Alcoholic beverages by the bottle can be purchased at liquor
stores, at pubs displaying OFF-LICENSE signs, and at most supermarkets.
Ireland has very severe laws and penalties regarding driving while
intoxicated, so don’t even think about it.
Mail In Ireland, mailboxes are painted green with the word POST on top.
In Northern Ireland, they are painted red with a royal coat-of-arms sym-
bol. From the Republic, an airmail letter or postcard to the United States
or Canada, not exceeding 25 grams, costs €.65 (78¢) and takes 5 to 7 days
to arrive. Prestamped aerogrammes or air letters are also €.65. From
Northern Ireland to the United States or Canada, airmail letters cost 45p
(82¢) and postcards 35p (65¢). Delivery takes about 5 days to a week.
Police In the Republic of Ireland, a law enforcement officer is called a
Garda, a member of the Garda Siochana (guardian of the peace); in the
plural, it’s Gardai (pronounced Gar-dee) or simply “the Guards.” Dial
& 999 to reach the Gardai in an emergency. Except for special detach-
ments, Irish police are unarmed and wear dark blue uniforms. In North-
ern Ireland you can also reach the police by dialing & 999.
Restrooms Public restrooms are usually simply called “toilets” or are
marked with international symbols. In the Republic of Ireland, some of
the older ones still carry the Gaelic words Fir (Men) and Mna (Women).
Among the newest and best-kept restrooms are those found at shopping
malls and at multistory parking lots. Free restrooms are available to cus-
tomers of sightseeing attractions, museums, hotels, restaurants, pubs,
shops, theaters, and department stores. Most of the newer gas stations
have public toilets, and some even have baby-changing facilities.
Safety The Republic of Ireland has enjoyed a traditionally low crime rate,
particularly when it comes to violent crime. Those days do regrettably
seem to be passing, especially in the cities. By U.S. standards, Ireland is
still very safe but not safe enough to warrant carelessness. Travelers
should take normal precautions to protect their belongings from theft

and themselves from harm.
In recent years, the larger cities have been prey to pickpockets, purse-
snatchers, car thieves, and drug traffickers. Dublin’s busiest thorough-
fares by day have been the scene of brutal, mindless beatings at night. To
alert visitors to potential dangers, the Garda Siochana publishes a small
leaflet, A Short Guide to Tourist Security, which is available at tourist
offices and other public places. The booklet advises you not to carry large
amounts of money or important documents like your passport or airline
tickets when strolling around. Leave them in a safe-deposit box at your
hotel. Do not leave cars unlocked or cameras, binoculars, or other expen-
sive equipment unattended. Be alert and aware of your surroundings,
and do not wander in lonely areas alone at night. And take special care
if you’ll be out in Dublin when the pubs and nightclubs close for the
night. Ask at your hotel about which areas are safe and which are not,
and when. Take a taxi back to your hotel if you’re out after midnight.
In the north of Ireland, safety is a somewhat greater concern because
of the political unrest that has prevailed there for the past 30 years. Vio-
lence seems to have diminished somewhat since the Good Friday Agree-
ment was instituted, but short flare-ups are common. Before traveling to
Northern Ireland, contact the U.S. State Department and the Northern
Ireland Tourist Board to obtain the latest safety recommendations. The
U.S. Department of State 24-hour hot line (& 202/647-5225) provides
travel warnings and security recommendations, as well as emergency
assistance.
Taxes As in many European countries, sales tax is called VAT (value-
added tax) and is often already included in the price quoted to you or
shown on price tags. In the Republic, VAT rates vary—for hotels, restau-
rants, and car rentals, it is 13.5%; for souvenirs and gifts, it is 21%. In
Northern Ireland, the VAT is 17.5% across the board. VAT charged on
services such as hotel stays, meals, car rentals, and entertainment cannot
be refunded to visitors, but the VAT on products such as souvenirs is
refundable. For full details on VAT refunds for purchases, see “VAT
Refunds” under “Tips on Sightseeing & Shopping” earlier in this chapter.
Telephone In the Republic, the telephone system is known as Eircom; in
Northern Ireland, it’s British Telecom. Phone numbers in Ireland are cur-
rently in flux, as digits are added to accommodate expanded service.
Every effort has been made to ensure that the numbers and information
in this guide are accurate at the time of writing. If you have difficulty
reaching a party, the Irish toll-free number for directory assistance is
& 11811. From the United States, the (toll) number to call is & 00353-
91-770220.
Local calls from a phone booth require a Callcard (in the Republic) or
Phonecard (in the North). Both are prepaid computerized cards that you
insert into the phone instead of coins. They can be purchased in a range
of denominations at phone company offices, post offices, and many retail
outlets (such as newsstands). There’s a local and international phone cen-
ter at the General Post Office on O’Connell Street.
Overseas calls from Ireland can be quite costly, whether you use a local
Phonecard or your own calling card. If you think you will want to call
home regularly while in Ireland, you may want to open an account with
Vartec Telecom Ireland in Ireland & 1800/300067; www.vartec.ie). Its
rates represent a considerable savings, not only from Ireland to the
United States but vice versa (handy for planning your trip as well as keep-
ing in touch afterward). International WORLDLINK (& 800/864-8000 in
the U.S. or 1800/551514 in Ireland) offers an array of additional services
for overseas travelers—such as toll-free voice-mail boxes, fax mail, and
news services—which can be crucial for keeping in touch when you don’t
know where or when you can be reached.
To place a call from your home country to Ireland, dial the interna-
tional access code (011 in the U.S., 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New
Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus the country code (353 for the Republic, 44
for the North), and finally the number, remembering to omit the initial 0,
which is for use only within Ireland (for example, to call the County Kerry
number 066/00000 from the United States, you’d dial 011-353-66/00000).
To place a direct international call from Ireland, dial the international
access code (00) plus the country code (U.S. and Canada 1, the U.K. 44,
Australia 61, New Zealand 64), the area or city code, and the number. For
example, to call the U.S. number 212/000-0000 you’d dial & 00-1-212/
000-0000. The toll-free international access code for AT&T is & 1-800-
550-000; for Sprint it’s & 1-800-552-001; and for MCI it’s & 1-800-55-
1001. Note: To dial direct to Northern Ireland from the Republic, simply
replace the 028 prefix with 048.
Time Ireland follows Greenwich Mean Time (1 hr. earlier than Central
European Time) from November to March, and British Standard Time (the
same as Central European Time) from April to October. Ireland is 5 hours
ahead of the eastern United States (when it’s noon in New York, it’s 5pm
in Ireland).
Ireland’s latitude makes for longer days and shorter nights in the sum-
mer, and the reverse in the winter. In June there is bright sun until 11pm,
but in December, it is truly dark at 4pm.
Tipping Most hotels and guesthouses add a service charge to the bill,
usually 12.5% to 15%, although some smaller places add only 10% or
nothing at all. Always check to see what amount, if any, has been added
to your bill. If it is 12.5% to 15%, and you feel this is sufficient, then
there is no need for more gratuities. However, if a smaller amount has
been added or if staff members have provided exceptional service, it is
appropriate to give additional cash gratuities. For porters or bellhops,
tip €1 ($1.20) per piece of luggage. For taxi drivers, hairdressers, and
other providers of service, tip as you would at home, an average of 10%
to 15%.
For restaurants, the policy is usually printed on the menu—either a
gratuity of 10% to 15% is automatically added to your bill or it’s left up
to you. Always ask if you are in doubt. As a rule, bartenders do not expect
a tip, except when table service is provided.
Water Tap water throughout the island of Ireland is generally safe. If you
prefer bottled water, it is readily available at all hotels, guesthouses,
restaurants, and pubs.
Yellow Pages The classified section of telephone books in the Republic of
Ireland is called the Golden Pages (www.goldenpages.ie). In the North,
it’s called the Yellow Pages.
3
Ireland Outdoors
Eharesnvision an island where foxes and
are spotted within city limits,
very few demands on the environ-
ment. The result is remarkably intact
otters swim in city rivers, roadsides bird and wildlife habitats.
are speckled with Mediterranean, Every corner of Ireland is packed
Caribbean, and Arctic wildflowers, with opportunities for outdoor pur-
and sea lions are common sights on suits. Think of the Irish as the
suburban beaches. Imagine being able Mediterraneans of the north. Like the
to walk for hours along a coastal head- Greeks and southern Italians, they
land without meeting another human love the outdoors and spend as much
being. This is Ireland—a largely of their time in it as possible. So what
unspoiled utopia for nature and nature- if it rains—that doesn’t stop the Irish
lovers. About a third of Ireland’s 3.7 from doing anything they want when
million residents live in Dublin or the they want, from golfing to hiking
surrounding areas. Apart from a few (called hillwalking here) to fishing to
other cities, the rest of the population windsurfing to cycling. “But ’tis only
is thinly settled on the island, putting rain,” they say. And they’re right.
1 Bicycling
Bicycling is a wonderful way to see the Irish landscape in its many forms, from
barren bogland to crashing surf to inland lakes. The distances are quite manage-
able, and in a week or two on a bike, you can travel through several of the regions
described in this guide or explore one in greater detail. Accommodations in the
form of hostels, B&Bs, and hotels are abundantly available for touring cyclists
who don’t want to deal with the extra weight of a tent and sleeping bag. Even if
you’re not game to undertake a full-fledged bike tour, day trips on two wheels can
be a great way to stretch your legs after spending too much time in the car.
Roads in Ireland are categorized as M (Motorway), N (National), or R
(Regional); some still bear the older T (Trunk) and L (Link) designations. For
reasons of scenery as well as safety, you probably want to avoid motorways and
national roads. The R and L roads are always suitable for cycling, as are the N
roads in outlying areas where there isn’t too much traffic. The biggest disadvan-
tage of the smaller roads in remote areas is that they are often not signposted, so
you should have a good map and compass to be sure of your way. In some areas
of the west and northwest, only the N roads are consistently signposted.
If you’re going to hook up with a cycling outfitter (see below), you probably
won’t need to bring your own gear. But if you’re planning on going it alone, ask
your airline how much it will cost to stow your bike in the baggage hold. Be
forewarned that airlines are increasingly charging additional fees for “oddly”
shaped and bulky items such as golf bags and bicycles.
Even if you’ll be renting a bike, you’ll still want to consider bringing a few of
your own items. Helmets are only sporadically available, and your chances of
finding one that fits are poor; so, bring one if you care about your head. Rental
76 CHAPTER 3 . IRELAND OUTDOORS
panniers (saddlebags) are often on the flimsy side. If you have cycling shoes and
good pedals, you can easily attach them to the rental bike and make your trip
immeasurably more enjoyable. With advance notice, most rental shops can out-
fit a bike with toe clips, bar ends, and water-bottle cages; an advance booking
can also improve your chances of reserving the right size bike. Many rental out-
fits can also arrange a one-way rental over a short distance (up to 161km/100
miles or so). The national companies, such as Eurotrek Raleigh and Rent-A-Bike
Ireland (see below), are set up for one-way rentals throughout the country.
Anyone cycling in Ireland should be prepared for two inevitable obstacles to
progress: wind and hills. Outside the midlands, there are hills just about every-
where, and those on the back roads can have thigh-burning steep grades. Road
engineering is rather primitive—instead of having switchbacks on a steep slope,
roads often climb by the most direct route.
Cyclists have long favored the coastal roads of the southwest, west, and north-
west. The quiet roads and rugged scenery of the Beara Peninsula (see chapter 8)
make it perfect for a cycling tour, along with the nearby Dingle Peninsula (see
chapter 9). The spectacular Iveragh Peninsula (see chapter 9) is okay for cycling
if you don’t mind dodging tour buses on the renowned “Ring of Kerry” road.
Donegal (see chapter 13) is one of the hilliest regions and rewards the energetic
cyclist with some of the country’s most
spectacular coastal and mountain
Tips Biking Tip scenery.
If you’ll be biking in the west, Also ideal for cycling are Ireland’s
plan your route from south to many islands; you can bring your bike
north—the same direction as the on all passenger ferries, often for no
prevailing winds. extra charge, and discover roads with
little or no traffic. Some of the best
islands with accommodations are Cape
Clear, County Cork (see chapter 8); Great Blasket Island, County Kerry (see
chapter 9); the Aran Islands, County Galway (see chapter 11); and Achill and
Clare islands, County Mayo (see chapter 13).
BICYCLING OUTFITTERS & RESOURCES
If you’re booking from the United States, Backroads (& 800/GO-ACTIVE or
510/527-1555; www.backroads.com) and VBT (& 800/BIKE-TOUR; www.vbt.
com) are two well-regarded companies offering all-inclusive bicycle itineraries in
Ireland—bikes, gear, luggage transportation via a support van, good food, and
accommodations in local inns and hotels of character—everything bundled into
one price.
If you want to design your own itinerary and bike independently, several
rental agencies with depots nationwide permit one-way rental. They include
Eurotrek Raleigh (Ireland’s largest), Longmile Road, Dublin 12 (& 01/465-
9659; www.raleigh.ie); and Rent-A-Bike Ireland, 1 Patrick St., Limerick,
County Limerick (& 061/416983; www.irelandrentabike.com). Mountain and
cross-country bike rental rates average €20 ($24) per day, €80 ($96) per week,
and €100 ($120) for a one-way rental. You’ll also have to fork up a refundable
deposit of €80 ($96) per bike.
If you want your cycling trip to be orchestrated and outfitted by affable
experts on the ground, consider Irish Cycling Safaris (Belfield Bike Shop,
Belfield House, University College Dublin, Dublin 4; & 01/260-0749; fax 01/
716-1168; www.cyclingsafaris.com). It’s run by Marian Ryan and family, who
offer trips to practically every part of Ireland suitable for two wheels.
WALKING 77
Tips Biking Tip

Don’t wait until you arrive in Ireland to reserve your bike. Many outfitters
have gone out of business in the past few years due to skyrocketing insur-
ance costs. The only way to guarantee you’ll have a bike is to prebook.
For independent cycling adventures in the southeast of Ireland, contact Celtic

Cycling, Lorum Old Rectory, Bagenalstown, County Carlow (& 059/977-5282;
fax 059/977-5455; www.celticcycling.com). On the opposite side of the island,
Irish Cycling Tours (Derrynasliggaun, Leenane, Connemara, County Galway,
Ireland; & 095/42302; fax 095/42314; www.irishcyclingtours.com) offers guided
and self-guided tours in the west—specifically Kerry and Connemara—for every-
one from honeymooners to families to seniors to singles.
2 Walking
Hiking is a relatively new sport in Ireland but one that is growing incredibly
fast. Since 1982 the network of long-distance, marked trails have grown from
one to 25, covering some 2,414km (1,500 miles). The first to open was the
Wicklow Way, which begins just outside Dublin and proceeds through rugged
hills and serene pastures on its 132km (82-mile) course. Others include the
South Leinster Way, the Beara Peninsula (see chapter 8), the Kerry Way (see
chapter 9), the Dingle Way (see chapter 9), and the Ulster Way (see chapter
15). Most trails are routed so that meals and accommodations—whether in
B&Bs, hostels, or hotels—are never more than a day’s walk apart. The routes are
generally uncrowded, and you tend to meet a lot of locals walking just part of
the distance.
Though the long-distance routes are the best-marked trails in Ireland, the
signposting is surprisingly random and inadequate, and a map is an absolute
necessity. Markers are frequently miles apart and often seem to be lacking at
crucial crossroads. Because trees on Irish hillsides rarely impede visibility, a post
or cairn on each summit usually indicates the way between two peaks. A com-
pass becomes crucial when a fog blows in and all landmarks quickly disappear.
Be warned: This can happen quite unexpectedly, and the safest strategy when
you can’t see your way is to stay exactly where you are until the fog clears.
The walks listed in this guide are on clearly marked trails whenever possible,
and otherwise indicated if sections are without markings. We can’t give you all
the information you need for the walks, of course, so you should consult the
local tourist office for advice before setting out.
For inland hillwalking, try the Wicklow Way (see chapter 5), the Blackstairs
Mountains (see chapter 6), the Galtee Mountains (see chapter 6), or Glenveagh
National Park (see chapter 13). For coastal walks, the best-known kind in this
island country, try the Beara Peninsula (see chapter 8), the Iveragh Peninsula (see
chapter 9), the Dingle Peninsula (see chapter 9), the Western Way in Con-
nemara (see chapter 12), and the Donegal Bay Coast (see chapter 13).
WALKING RESOURCES
Start your research on the Web. Two excellent online resources with plenty of
recommended walks are www.gowalkingireland.com and www.walkingireland.
com. The Mountaineering Council of Ireland, which oversees hillwalking on
the island, can be visited at www.mountaineering.ie.
Before leaving home, you can order maps and guidebooks, including details
of available accommodations en route, from East West Mapping (&/fax 054/
77835; [email protected]; http://homepage.tinet.ie/~eastwest). In Ireland
you can buy maps and guidebooks in local bookshops and outdoor-gear shops.
Most guides can also be obtained from An Óige, the Irish Youth Hostel Associ-
ation, 61 Mountjoy St., Dublin 1 (& 01/830-4555), or in the North from
YHANI, Northern Ireland’s Youth Hostel Association, 22 Donegal Rd., Belfast
BT12 5JN (& 028/9031-5435).
Ordnance survey maps are available in several scales; the most helpful to the
walker is the 1:50,000, or 11⁄4-inches-to-1-mile, scale. This series is currently
available for all of Northern Ireland and a limited number of locations in the
Republic. The half-inch-to-1-mile series covers the whole country in 25 maps,
and local maps are available in most shops. They indicate roads, major trails, and
historic monuments in some detail. Although they are on too small a scale for
walkers, they are all that is available in many areas. For ordnance survey maps,
contact Ordnance Survey Service, Phoenix Park, Dublin 8 (& 01/802-5300),
or Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland, Colby House, Stranmillis Court,
Belfast BT9 5BJ (& 028/9025-5755; www.ordsvy.gov.uk/getamap). The Irish
Tourist Board’s booklet Walking Ireland and the Northern Ireland Tourist
Board’s An Information Guide to Walking are both very helpful. Other excellent
resources include Best Irish Walks, edited by Joss Lynam (Passport Books, 1995);
and Irish Long Distance Walks: A Guide to the Waymarked Trails, by Michael
Fewer (Gill and Macmillan, 1993).
Hidden Trails (& 888/9-TRAILS; www.hiddentrails.com) offers 7-day
guided and self-guided hiking tours of six regions in Ireland, including the
Wicklow Mountains, West Cork, the Burren, and Connemara. The tours are
graded “easy,” “moderate,” or “challenging,” and include lodging, meals (break-
fast, picnic lunch, and dinner), and luggage transport to and from the trail
heads. Rates average $563 per person, double occupancy, for a week.
In the west of Ireland, you have a wide selection of guided walks in the Bur-
ren, from 1 day to a week or more. Contact Burren Walking Holidays, with
the Carrigann Hotel (see chapter 10), Lisdoonvarna (& 065/707-4036; fax
065/707-4567). In the southwest, contact SouthWest Walks Ireland, 6 Church
St., Tralee, County Kerry (& 066/712-8733; fax 066/712-8762; www.south
westwalksireland.com). For a full walking holiday package to County Kerry or
County Clare and Connemara, consult BCT Scenic Walking, 227 North El
Camino Real, Encinitas, CA 92024 (& 800/473-1210; www.bctwalk.com).
On the Northern Ireland Tourist Board’s website (www.discovernorthern
ireland.com), click the “Activities” rubric to reach a walking and hiking page
that lists self-guided tours, 14 short hikes along the Ulster Way, and names and
addresses of organizations offering guided walks throughout the North.
Impressions
To know fully even one field or one lane is a lifetime’s experience. In the
world of poetic experience it is depth that counts and not width. A gap
in a hedge, a smooth rock surfacing a narrow lane, a view of a woody
meadow, the stream at the junction of four small fields—these are as
much as a man can fully experience.
—Patrick Kavanagh, poet (1904–67)
WALKING 79
Ireland’s National Parks

Ireland’s six national parks offer up some of most spectacular scenery
and best walking in the country, and all have free admission.
The Burren National Park, Mullaghmore, County Clare (http://homepage.
tinet.ie/~knp/burren), is one of the most fascinating regions in western
Europe—a series of limestone beds eroded during the Ice Age to form
a barren, lunarlike landscape. The Burren is of particular interest to
botanists, since it’s the only place in the world where Arctic, Mediter-
ranean, and Alpine species of wildflowers grow side-by-side in the fis-
sures of the rock.
Connemara National Park, Letterfrack, County Galway (http://homepage.
tinet.ie/~knp/connemara/index.htm), is a rugged, heather-clad land-
scape of blanket bog and wet heath, encompassing some of the Twelve
Ben mountain range. There are nature trails with accompanying map/
booklets (guided walks are available in summer) and a visitor center at
Letterfrack.
Glenveagh National Park, near Gweedore, County Donegal (http://
homepage.tinet.ie/~knp/glenveagh), is Ireland’s largest national park
and also its remotest wilderness—103,600 sq. km (40,000 sq. miles) of
mountains, lakes, and natural woodlands that are home to the largest
population of red deer in Ireland. From the visitor center, you can grab
a ride on a minibus along the shores of Lough Veagh to Glenveagh
Castle, notable for its outstanding gardens. There’s also a self-guided
nature trail and a summer program of guided walks.
Killarney National Park, Killarney, County Kerry (http://homepage.tinet.
ie/~knp/intro), contains nearly 64,750 sq. km (25,000 sq. miles) of spec-
tacular lake and mountain scenery. There are four self-guided trails, a
visitor center with a restaurant/coffee shop, and two small lodges with
tearooms.
Mayo National Park, Ballycroy, County Mayo (http://homepage.tinet.ie/
~knp/mayo/index.htm), is the newest of the parks, centered in the
Owenduff-Nephinbeg area. It features some of the best Atlantic bog
landscapes in Europe. Along with a visitor center in Ballycroy, there are
nature trails galore.
Wicklow Mountains National Park, Glendalough, County Wicklow
(http://homepage.tinet.ie/~knp/wicklow/index.htm), is the only park of
the six that’s not on the west coast. At over 129,500 sq. km (50,000 sq.
miles), it contains some of the most picturesque woodlands, moors,
and mountains in Ireland, and includes the Glendalough monastic site
and the Glenealo Valley. There is a park information office at the
Upper Lake, near the Glendalough car park.
In addition to national parks, there are 12 forest reserve parks, sev-
eral of which were former private estates. Among the most enchant-
ing is Lough Key Forest Park in County Roscommon, which features a
bog-garden, fairy bridge, old estate chapel, viewing tower and wish-
ing chair, and archaeological and historical monuments. Contact the
Irish Tourist Board for more information on Ireland’s park system.
3 Bird-Watching
Ireland is of great interest to birders primarily because of its position on the
migration routes of many passerines and seabirds, which find the isle a conven-
ient stopping point on their Atlantic journeys. Opportunities for birding
abound, particularly in the 71 National Nature Reserves. The network of
reserves covers woodlands, boglands, grasslands, sand dune systems, bird sanc-
tuaries, coastal heathlands, and marine areas.
Most of the important seabird nesting colonies are on the west coast, the west-
ernmost promontory of Europe; exceptions are Lambey Island, near Dublin,
and Great Saltee in County Wexford. Sandy beaches and tidal flats on the east
and west coasts are nesting grounds for large populations of winter waders and
smaller, isolated tern colonies. In the North the largest seabird colony is on
Rathlin Island, off the North Antrim coast.
Until recently, rural Ireland was home to large numbers of a small bird known
as the corncrake (Crex crex), whose unusual cry during breeding season was a
common feature of the early summer night. Sadly, the introduction of heavy
machinery for cutting silage has destroyed the protective high-grass environ-
ment in which the mother corncrake lays her eggs. (The period for cutting silage
coincides with the corncrake breeding period.) Ireland now has only a few areas
where the corncrake still breeds. One is the Shannon Callows , where the
bird’s cry can often be heard after night’s quiet replaces the noise of the day.
In the winter, Ireland’s lakes and wetlands serve as a wintering ground for
great numbers of wildfowl from the Arctic and northern Europe. From Green-
land, Iceland, and Canada come waders such as knot, golden plover, and black-
tailed godwit; flocks of brent, barnacle, and white-fronted geese; and thousands
of whooper swans. Every year, as many as 10,000 Greenland white-fronted geese
winter on the north shores of Wexford Harbor, making it a mecca for birders.
Flooded fields, or “callows,” provide habitats for wigeons, whooping swans, and
plover; the callows of the Shannon and the Blackwater are especially popular
with birders. One of the best winter bird-watching sites is the Wexford Wildfowl
Reserve (see chapter 6).
From March onwards, mild spring weather invites Irish birds to begin nesting
early, and their songs fill the woods and hedgerows. The arrival of migrants from
Africa can be observed in April and May all along the south coast. Rathlin Island
reserve (see chapter 15), home to Northern Ireland’s largest seabird colony, is best
visited in May and June.
Summer is the time to head to the west of Ireland, where seaside cliffs are an
ideal place for large seabird colonies such as puffins and gannets. Some of the best
summer birding sites are Great Saltee Island (see chapter 6), Cape Clear Island (see
chapter 8), the Skellig Islands (see chapter 9), and Loop Head (see chapter 10).
Autumn is a particularly attractive time for bird-watchers in Ireland, when
many rare American waders—mainly sandpipers and plovers—arrive when
blown across the Atlantic. A spectacular avian event is the annual fall migration
of brent geese. On the shores of Strangford Lough in County Down—Europe’s
premier brent-watching site—you might see as many as 3,000 on a single day.
BIRD-WATCHING RESOURCES
One of the best sources of information is the Irish Birding homepage
(www.irishbirding.com), which features links on birding events, sites, and news.
Another excellent resource is Birdwatch Ireland, Rockingham House, Newcastle,
County Wicklow (& 01/281-9878; www.birdwatchireland.ie), an organization
GOLF 81
devoted to bird conservation in the Republic of Ireland. An equivalent organi-

zation in Northern Ireland is The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds,
Belvoir Park Forest, Belfast BT8 7QT (& 048/9049-1547; www.rspb.org.uk/
nireland). The umbrella organization for birding in the North is Birdwatch
Northern Ireland, 12 Belvoir Close, Belfast BT8 7PL (& 01247/467408; www.
birdwatch-ni.co.uk).
Wexford Wildfowl Reserve, North Slob, Wexford (& 053/23129; fax 053/
24785), has a visitor center with information on local bird-watching sites. The
reserve’s full-time warden, Chris Wilson, can direct you to other places corre-
sponding to your areas of interest.
The Altamount Gardens, Tullow, County Wicklow (& 0503/59444), offers
weekend courses in ornithology. See chapter 5 for more information.
On Cape Clear Island, there is a bird observatory at the North Harbour,
with a warden in residence from March to November and accommodations for
bird-watchers. Ciarán O’Driscoll (& 028/39153), who operates a B&B on the
island, also runs boat trips for bird-watchers around the island and has a keen
eye for vagrants and rarities.
Northern Ireland has two first-class nature centers for bird enthusiasts, both
ideal for families. Castle Espie, Ballydrain Road, Comber, County Down BT23
6EA (& 048/9187-4146), is home to Ireland’s largest collection of ducks, geese,
and swans. The Lough Neagh Discovery Centre, Oxford Island, Craigavon,
County Armagh (& 028/3832-2205), is in the outstanding Oxford Island
National Nature Reserve. For all-inclusive bird-watching packages in the North,
contact Murphy’s Wildlife Tours, 12 Belvoir Close, Belfast BT8 7PL (& 048/
9069-3232; fax 028/9064-4681).
4 Golf
Golf is the single biggest sporting attraction in Ireland, with over 204,000 visitors
traveling to Ireland specifically to play golf. Boasting 384 courses—including
scores of championship courses—the island has devoted a greater percentage of
its soil to the game than any other country in the world. The Irish landscape and
climate, like those of Scotland, seem almost to have been custom-designed to
offer some of the most scenic links, the fairest fairways, the greenest greens, and
the most dramatic traps you’ll ever encounter. And there is never a shortage of
19th holes. In short, Ireland is for the golfer a place of pilgrimage.
Golfing in Ireland is not confined to those with an Olympian income. Mem-
bership fees do not require mortgages, and greens fees for walk-ins are often
quite modest, especially on weekdays and at off-peak hours.
See “Outdoor Pursuits” in the chapters that follow for a recommended selec-
tion of Ireland’s top courses.
Tips Save Money: Pay Less for Golf Balls

One of the best things about golfing in Ireland is the relatively inexpen-
sive greens fees. So don’t rack up extra costs by buying golf balls from pro
shops. You can save 50% by buying used golf balls from Golfballs.ie,
brand-name balls retrieved from some of America’s top golf courses and
perfect for play in competition. You can order by credit card a few days
before leaving on vacation, and have them sent to your hotel in Ireland.
Contact & 087/286-7166; fax 01/843-4213; www.golfballs.ie.
GOLF RESOURCES
The Irish Tourist Board has a dedicated golf website with numerous links and
contacts at www.golf.travel.ie.
Specialty Ireland, Castlemeadows, Murrintown, County Wexford (& 053/
39962; fax 053/39977; www.specialtyireland.com), can customize your itiner-
ary to include any of 27 championship clubs and more than 400 other courses
on the island. You can find out detailed information on 105 of Ireland’s courses
by searching the database at www.golfcourse.com.
A host of U.S. companies offer package golf tours. Among them are Atlantic-
golf (& 800/542-6224 or 203/363-1003; fax 203/363-1006; www.atlanticgolf.
com); Emerald Isle Golf Tours (& 800/446-8845 or 847/446-7885; in Ireland
& 065/708-1079; fax 847/446-2248); Golf International (& 800/833-1389 or
212/986-9176; www.golfinternational.com); and Wide World of Golf (& 800/
214-4653 or 831/625-9671; www.wideworldofgolf.com).
5 Horseback Riding
Ireland is a horse-loving country, with a plethora of stables and equestrian cen-
ters offering trail rides and instruction. The Association of Irish Riding Estab-
lishments (www.aire.ie) is the regulatory body that accredits stables, ensuring
adequate safety standards and instructor competence. Riding prices range from
€15 to €35 ($18–$42) per hour; expect to pay €20 ($24) on average. A list of
accredited stables throughout the country is available from the Irish Tourist
Board.
A great variety of riding options can be found to suit different interests and
levels of experience. Pony trekking caters primarily to beginners, and you don’t
need experience. Trail riding over longer distances requires the ability to trot for
extended periods, and can be quite exhausting for the novice. Riding establish-
ments also commonly offer such advanced options as jumping and dressage, and
some have enclosed arenas—an attractive option on rainy days. Several estab-
lishments have accommodations and offer packages that include meals, lodging,
and riding. Post-to-post trail riding allows a rider to stay at different lodgings
each night, riding on trails all day. Not all stables can accommodate young chil-
dren, but some make a point of being open to riders of all ages.
County Kildare is the epicenter of Irish horse country. The Irish National
Stud and the Curragh are hubs of thoroughbred breeding and racing, and there
are many fine stables nearby (see chapter 5). The hills and valleys of County
Wicklow (see chapter 5) have a number of fine riding establishments, as do
counties Wexford and Tipperary (see chapter 6), Galway (see chapter 12), and
the Northwest (see chapter 13).
RIDING RESOURCES
The Irish Tourist Board has a dedicated horseback-riding website with numer-
ous links and contacts at www.equestrian.travel.ie.
Equestrian Holidays Ireland (www.ehi.ie) is a collection of some 37 riding
centers, each registered with the Association of Irish Riding Establishments,
offering a wide variety of accommodations and riding holiday experiences. EHI
properties include Dingle Horse Riding, Ballinaboula, Dingle (& 066/915-
2199; www.dinglehorseriding.com); and Drumindoo Stud & Equestrian Cen-
tre, Knockranny, Westport, County Mayo (& 098/25616).
If you don’t want to dedicate your entire trip to riding, many equestrian cen-
ters let you ride for the day or just a few hours.
FISHING 83
Tips Horseback-Riding Tip

Always phone ahead to make sure any particular equestrian center is still
offering rides. Many have discontinued this service in the past few years
due to skyrocketing insurance costs.
6 Fishing
What makes Ireland such a great fishing destination? First, there’s lots of water:
a coastline of more than 5,603km (3,472 miles), a plethora of lakes and ponds,
and countless creeks, rills, streams, and rivers. Next, Ireland’s temperate climate
and low pollution encourage a high fish population. And finally, low human
density has put little pressure on that population. All in all, Ireland is perhaps
the best place to fish for salmon, sea trout, and brown trout in all of Europe.
The sport of catching those fish—referred to by the Irish as angling—has a
cherished tradition. Many festivals and competitions celebrating the many forms
of this sport are held between March and September; for dates and locations,
contact the Irish Tourist Board (you have to sign up well in advance to partici-
pate in most of the competitions). Among the festivals are Killybegs Interna-
tional Fishing Festival and the Baltimore Angling Festival in July, and the Cobh
Sea Angling Festival in September.
In the west and northwest, Killybegs (see chapter 13) is a center for sea angling,
while loughs Corrib, Conn, and Mask (see chapters 12 and 13) offer much to
entice the freshwater angler. The Killarney area (see chapter 9) is a popular
angling destination, as are the Blackwater River near Cork (see chapter 7) and
Kinsale (see chapter 8) for sea angling. Also consider the Shannon River and its
lakes, especially Lough Derg (see chapter 14).
FISHING RESOURCES
Fishing seasons are as follows: salmon, January 1 to September 30; brown trout,
February 15 to October 12; sea trout, June 1 to September 30; course fishing and
sea angling, all year. A license is only required for salmon and sea trout angling;
the cost is €15 ($18) for a day, €22 ($27) for 21 days, or €60 ($72) annually.
For all private salmon and sea trout fisheries, a permit is required in addition to
the license. Prices vary greatly, from €7 to €190 ($8.45–$229) per rod per day
(depending on the venue and provider), although most permits run €25 to €35
($30–$42).
The Irish Tourist Board has websites dedicated to fishing at www.angling.
travel.ie. A helpful brochure, Angling in Ireland, detailing what fish can be
caught where, is available from the Angling Information Office at the Central
Fisheries Board, Balnagowan House, Mobhi Boreen, Glasnevin, Dublin 9
(& 01/884-2600; fax 01/836-0060; www.cfb.ie). Another helpful resource,
The Angler’s Guide, is published by the Irish Tourist Board. Permits, licenses, and
specific information can be obtained from local outfitters or the Central Fish-
eries Board.
Many hotels have exclusive access to lakes and ponds, and will rent boats,
gear, and ghillies (fishing guides) to their guests. Nearly two dozen such hotels
have gotten together to form The Great Fishing Houses of Ireland (www.ireland
fishing.com). Examples include Adare Manor in Limerick (see chapter 10); Bal-
lynahinch Castle in County Galway (see chapter 12); and Newport House Hotel
and Enniscoe House, both in Mayo (see chapter 13).
Angling for Trout & Salmon

Yeats imagined his ideal fisherman “climbing up to a place / where
stone is dark under froth,” and vividly pictured “the down-turn of his
wrist / when the flies drop in the stream.” Anglers visiting Ireland are
free to do so because they don’t need a license to take brown trout
and many a small stream or mountain tarn offers free fishing. Gener-
ally, you do not need to ask permission to walk across a couple of fields
to reach a suitable fishing place. Ask locals where the best places to
fish are. Also, the better known lakes will have boats and guides avail-
able. Be sure to check with the local tourist office or tackle dealer
before dropping your line. Unless you’re staying at a fishing lodge that
provides gear, you’ll need to bring rods, reels, and waders with you.
Suitable flies can always be bought locally. Catch and release is not
widely practiced, but on most club waters an angler will be limited to
the amount and size of fish.
If your quest is for larger brown trout, head for the bigger lakes
where the underlying rock is limestone rather than granite. Oughter-
ard in County Galway, Ballinrobe in County Mayo, and Pontoon in
County Mayo are good centers for Lough Carrib, Lough Mask, and
Lough Conn, respectively. No permit is required, but you need to hire
a boat and an experienced boatman. May and June are the best
months to fish there, as they are for the great midland lakes that can
easily be reached from Mullingar in County Westmeath. The lakes
around Ennis in County Clare fish well in March or April. Excellent
brown-trout fishing can also be had in the rivers of County Cork and
County Tipperary, where you usually have to apply to the local angling
club for a visitor’s ticket.
Many rivers and lakes hold good stocks of salmon and sea trout. A
license (obtained locally) is required, and advance booking is a virtual
necessity for the more famous locations, such as the Salmon Weir pool
in Galway City and the Ridge pool in Ballina. Sea trout run from late
June to August. There are two main salmon runs: the spring run of
older, bigger fish and the “grilse” run in June and July. Opening and
closing dates vary from river to river, but most waters are open from
March to September. Serious anglers reserve accommodations by the
week in centers like Waterville in County Kerry and Newport in County
Mayo. If you are touring by car, it is always worth inquiring locally. Day
tickets are often available from hotels or angling clubs.
Two excellent books by Peter O’Reilly, Trout and Salmon Rivers of
Ireland (3rd edition, 1995) and Trout and Salmon Loughs of Ireland
(1987), give full coverage of the waters available.
—J. V. Luce, Royal Irish Academy and Trinity College, Dublin
Dr. Luce, an avid world-traveled angler, learned the art
from his father, A. A. Luce, former chaplain and professor
of philosophy at Trinity and author of a noted book on
Irish angling, titled Fishing and Thinking.
K AYA K I N G 85
In Northern Ireland, you must get a rod license from the Fisheries Conser-
vancy Board, 1 Mahon Rd., Portadown, Craigavon, County Armagh (& 028/
3833-4666), or in the Derry area from the Foyle Carlingford Irish Lights
Commission, 22 Victoria Rd., Derry BT47 2AB (& 028/7134-2100; www.
fcbni.com). A permit may also be required; information can be obtained from
local outfitters or the Department of Culture, Arts and Leisure, Interpoint
Centre, York Street, Belfast BT4 3PW (& 028/9052-3434; fax 028/9052-
3121). A rod license costs £3.50 to £23 ($6.40–$42), depending on the license
provider and duration of license; permits run £5 ($9.15) for 3 days or £15 ($28)
for 14 days. You can find a wealth of information and contacts in An Informa-
tion Guide to Game Fishing, available from any office of the Northern Ireland
Tourist Board.
7 Kayaking
Known as “canoeing” in Ireland, this sport has always been incredibly popular
with the natives—and no wonder, considering the island’s 4,830km (3,000
miles) of coastline, plus its numerous lakes and rivers.
In particular, the coastline provides year-round, superb sea-kayaking waters,
some of which are remote, with spectacular scenery. In a sea kayak, the wonders
of the Irish coast can be investigated at close hand. You’ll find caves and tiny
inlets, out-of-the-way cliffs and reefs inhabited by abundant seabirds, colorful
crustaceans, seals, and the occasional dolphin. Many islands are within easy
reach of the mainland, and with experience and good conditions, a sea kayaker
can reach any of Ireland’s island outposts.
A number of adventure centers offer kayaking lessons, and a few schools are
devoted solely to kayaking. Some of them will rent equipment as long as you can
demonstrate adequate proficiency—call ahead to make arrangements if that is
what you plan to do. For those new to the sport or unfamiliar with the Irish
coast, a guided excursion is the best option.
The deeply indented coast of West Cork (see chapter 8) and Kerry (see chap-
ter 9) is a sea kayaker’s paradise, with clear water, cliffs rising to dizzying heights,
and rocky shorelines so full of caves in some places that they seem hollow. The
west coast of Ireland (see chapters 10 and 13) offers many tiny islands and remote
spots to explore.
Kayaking can be enjoyed by the young and old, timid and daring. If you’re
looking for white water, visit in winter, when frequent rains fill the rivers enough
for good paddling. By early summer, most white-water streams are reduced to a
trickle. One exception is the Liffey, which is dam-controlled and has some
minor rapids upstream from Dublin that are sometimes passable during the
summer months.
KAYAKING RESOURCES
A rich source for the latest information on kayaking throughout Ireland can be
found on the Web, at the official website of the Irish Canoe Union: www.irish
canoeunion.com.
Kayaking vacations are also available at Delphi Adventure Centre, Leenane,
County Galway (& 095/42307; fax 095/42303; see chapter 12), and National
Mountain and Whitewater Centre, Tiglin, Ashford, County Wicklow (& 0404/
40169; www.tiglin.com; see chapter 5).
8 Sailing
Whether by cruising from port to port or dinghy sailing on the lakes, many
regions of Ireland can best be experienced from the water. The elaborately
indented coastline offers a plethora of safe havens for overnight stops—there are
more than 140 between Cork Harbor and the Dingle Peninsula alone. This
region of West Cork and Kerry is the most popular coastline for cruising, and
several companies offer yacht charters.
Some of the harbors in the southwest that are most popular with sailors
include Cork, Kinsale, Glandore, Baltimore, and Bantry. On the west coast,
Killary Harbour, Westport, and Sligo have sailing clubs and are in areas of great
beauty. There are also several sailing clubs and yacht-charter companies in the
Dublin area.
SAILING RESOURCES
Sailing schools hold courses for sailors at all levels of experience, and sometimes
offer day sailing as well. Ireland also has more than 120 yacht and sailing clubs
along the coast and lakes. The best sources for information are the Irish Tourist
Board; the Irish Sailing Association, 3 Park Rd., Dun Laoghaire, County
Dublin (& 01/280-0239; fax 01/280-7558; www.sailing.ie); and the Irish
Cruising Club Sailing Directions (Imray, Laurie, Norie & Wilson Ltd. of Wych
House) from the Irish Cruising Club (www.irishcruisingclub.com). The direc-
tion guide gives information on harbors, port facilities, tides, and other topics
of interest. It’s available in bookshops in Ireland or online at www.imray.com.
The International Sailing Association is an excellent resource for finding a
sailing school; you can find links to members at www.sailingschools.org/ireland.
htm. Sailing Holidays in Ireland (www.sailingireland.com) lists many sailing
schools and yacht-charter companies throughout the Republic. One of the best-
known schools, Glenans Irish Sailing Club, 5 Lower Mount St., Dublin 2
(& 01/661-1481; fax 01/676-4249; www.glenans-ireland.com), has two loca-
tions in West Cork and one in Mayo and offers classes at all levels (see chap-
ter 8). Day sailing is available during the summer at the West Cork location.
Sail Ireland Charters, Trident Hotel Marina, Kinsale, County Cork (& 021/
477-2927; fax 021/774170; www.sailireland.com; see chapter 8), is the largest
charter firm in Ireland and also offers sailing holidays. Yacht charters are also
available at Sporting Tours Ireland, 71 Main St., Kinsale, County Cork (&/fax
021/774727); Shannon Sailing Ltd., New Harbor, Dromineer, Nenagh, County
Tipperary (& 067/24499); and Dingle Sea Ventures, Dingle, County Kerry
(& 066/915-2244). Hobie Cat sailing can be arranged at the Little Killary
Adventure Centre, Leenane, County Galway (& 095/43411).
In addition, innumerable sailing trips are offered on Ireland’s coasts, rivers,
and lakes. For a selection of the best, see “Outdoor Pursuits” in the destination
chapters that follow.
9 Diving
With visibility averaging 15m (49 ft.) and occasionally reaching 29m (98 ft.),
and many wrecks to explore, the west coast of Ireland is a great place for divers—
in fact, it offers some of the best scuba diving in Europe.
The Irish dive season generally starts in March and ends in October, although
specific dates depend on your comfort zone. Outside these months, weather and
ocean conditions could make jumping into the sea unappealing for some. The
WINDSURFING 87
PADI open-water diver certification is the minimum requirement for all dives;
most schools also offer introductory dives for novices.
The rocky coast of West Cork and Kerry is great for diving, with centers in
Baltimore (see chapter 8) and Dingle (see chapter 9). On the west coast there are
many great locations, one of which is the deep, sheltered Killary Harbour.
Northern Ireland offers many interesting dives, with more than 400 named
wrecks off the coast and many in the Irish Sea and in Belfast Lough.
DIVING RESOURCES
The Irish Underwater Council (CFT, or Comhairle Fo-Thuinn), 78A Patrick
St., Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin (& 01/284-4601; fax 01/284-4602; www.
scubaireland.com), is an association of more than 70 Irish diving clubs. It oper-
ates under the aegis of the CMAS (Confederation Mondiale des Activites Sub-
aquatiques), the world diving federation. Its website lists information on diving
and snorkeling, dive centers, and dive hotels (no pun intended) throughout the
Republic and publishes the CFT Guide to Dive Sites and other information on
exploring the Emerald Isle’s emerald waters.
The UK Diving website, www.ukdiving.co.uk, features information on div-
ing in the North, including a wreck database you can access either through a
conventional listing or by pinpointing on a map. Wrecks are marked as red dots,
which can be clicked on to find more information.
Irish dive centers and schools include The National Diving School, Malahide
Marina Village, County Dublin (& 01/845-2000); Oceantec Adventures, Dun
Laoghaire, County Dublin (& 01/280-1083; http://indigo.ie/~oceantec); Bal-
timore Diving & Watersport Centre, Baltimore, County Cork (&/fax 028/
20300; www.baltimorediving.com); and Scubadive West, Renvyle, County Gal-
way (& 095/43922; fax 095/43923; www.scubadivewest.com).
10 Windsurfing
Windsurfing has become a very popular sport in Ireland, and some spots play
host to vast flotillas of colorful sails and wet-suited windsurfers when conditions
are good. Some of the best locations are in remote areas of the west coast, and
those spots are rarely crowded. Windsurfing schools with boards for rent can be
found in most regions of the country, with the greatest concentration on the
southeast and southwest coasts.
In Dublin the most popular spot is Dollymount Beach; Salthill, behind Dun
Laoghaire Harbour, is another good choice. In the southeast, try Brittas Bay
(County Wicklow), Cahore (County Wexford), and Rosslare (County Wexford).
Dunmore East (County Waterford), Dungarvan (County Waterford), and Cobh
(County Cork) are good in the south. The most challenging waves and winds
are in the west, at Brandon Bay on the Dingle Peninsula, Roundstone in Gal-
way, Achill Island in Mayo, and Magheroarty and Rossnowlagh in Donegal.
Because even skilled windsurfers spend a sizable portion of their time in the
water, the water quality is surely a concern. The good news is that nearly 90%
of Ireland’s beaches surpass E.U. voluntary guideline levels. Ireland has 27 des-
ignated European Union “Blue Flag” beaches and marinas, and Northern Ire-
land has 12. Keep your eyes peeled for a blue flag bearing a circular logo and
the current year to be assured of the highest standard in water quality. To find
a complete listing or to check out a particular beach in advance, go to www.
blueflag.org.
WINDSURFING RESOURCES
Equipment rental and lessons are widely available on Ireland’s coasts and lakes.
Try the following centers: the Surfdock Centre, Grand Canal Dock Yard,
Ringsend, Dublin 4 (& 01/668-3945; fax 01/668-1215; www.surfdock.ie); the
Dunmore East Adventure Centre, Dunmore East, County Waterford (& 051/
383783; fax 051/383786); Oysterhaven Windsurfing Centre, Oysterhaven,
Kinsale, County Cork (& 021/770738; fax 021/770776); Cappanalea Out-
door Education Centre, Oulagh West, Caragh Lake, County Kerry (& 066/
976-9244); and, in the North, Craigavon Watersports, 1 Lake Rd., County
Armagh (& 028/3834-2669; www.getrealcraigavon.com).
4
Dublin
Iitors
t’s nearly impossible for first-time vis-
to appreciate just how far Dublin
divided Dublin into north and south
for more than 1,000 years. Neither as
has come in a very short time. Native romantic as the Seine nor as mighty as
“Dubs,” however, who left years ago the Mississippi, the Liffey is just there,
and returned to the “Celtic Tiger” old and polluted, with walls to sit on
economy, can’t believe their eyes. or lean against when your legs give
Their beloved—if slightly down-at- out. Still, it always has been the center
the-heels—hometown has metamor- of things here, and it does make for a
phosed into a bastion of trendy coffee pretty picture on a good day. The Lif-
shops and juice bars, fusion-cuisine fey continues to divide the town as it
restaurants, minimalist interiors, once divided Viking from Celt and
designer boutiques, and Mercedes- Norman from Norse.
Benz and BMW dealerships. In the As long as anyone can remember,
late 1990s, Ireland had the fastest- the buzzing, prosperous hub of
growing economy in the European Dublin has lay mostly south of the
Union and continues to thrive eco- Liffey. The area containing most of
nomically. And Dublin, as Ireland’s the best hotels, restaurants, shops, and
capital, is at the epicenter of the boom. sights is a small, well-defined com-
Twenty years ago most visitors to Ire- pound that can be easily walked in an
land either bypassed “dirty aul’ Dublin” hour. It comprises a large part of
altogether or made a mad dash from Dublin 2 (the postal code for each
the ferry to the train station, deter- neighborhood is listed in “The Neigh-
mined to spend their first night beyond borhoods in Brief,” below), beginning
the pale. Now Dublin certainly gets the with the Georgian elegance of St.
glamour vote as one of Europe’s trendi- Stephen’s Green, moving toward the
est cities. Sightings of Julianne Moore, river via bustling Grafton Street, head-
Gwyneth Paltrow, Britney Spears, ing farther north and west through the
Robert DeNiro, and Cate Blanchett trendy cafe scene of Temple Bar.
have become so commonplace that That said, a visit confined to this
locals barely blink an eye. (The Irish small pocket of Dublin is not a true
polite indifference to celebrity is a slice visit to Dublin. An hour’s walk from
of nirvana for privacy-loving stars.) the top of Grafton Street, across the
Greater Dublin’s population has Liffey, up O’Connell Street, and far-
swollen to 1.5 million; more than a ther into north Dublin is a walk
third of the entire country lives here. through time and, simultaneously, a
The time has passed when aspiring glimpse of some of the pieces that
Irish artists owed it to themselves to must eventually fit together. Explore,
emigrate. Today they dig in. If Joyce get a haircut (in a barbershop, not a
and Beckett and Wilde could see salon), get lost and ask directions, and
Dublin today, they’d be back. you may uncover a time capsule from
Dublin, like most ancient cities, lies the Dublin of a century ago—or was it
sprawled along a river. The Liffey has only a generation?
90 CHAPTER 4 . DUBLIN
1 Orientation
Dublin is 222km (138 miles) NE of Shannon Airport, 258km (160 miles) NE of Cork, 167km (104 miles) S of
Belfast, 309km (192 miles) NE of Killarney, 219km (136 miles) E of Galway, 237km (147 miles) SE of Derry,
and 142km (88 miles) N of Wexford
ARRIVING
BY PLANE Aer Lingus, Ireland’s national airline, operates regularly sched-
uled flights into Dublin International Airport from Chicago, Boston, Los Ange-
les, Baltimore, and New York’s JFK. Delta Airlines flies to Dublin from Atlanta
and New York, and Continental Airlines flies to Dublin from Newark. Char-
ters also operate from a number of U.S. and Canadian cities. You can also fly
from the United States to London or other European cities and backtrack to
Dublin (see “Getting There” in chapter 2).
Dublin International Airport (& 01/814-1111; www.dublin-airport.com)
is 11km (7 miles) north of the city center. A Travel Information Desk located in
the Arrivals Concourse provides information on public bus and rail services
throughout the country.
An excellent airport-to-city bus service called AirCoach operates 24 hours a
day, making runs at 15-minute intervals. AirCoach runs direct from the airport
to Dublin’s city center and south side, servicing O’Connell Street, St. Stephen’s
Green, Fitzwilliam Square, Merrion Square, Ballsbridge, and Donnybrook—
that is, all the key hotel and business districts. The fare is €7 ($8.45) one-way
or €12 ($14) round-trip; you buy your ticket from the driver. Although Air-
Coach is slightly more expensive than the Dublin Bus (see below), it is faster
because it makes fewer intermediary stops and it brings you right into the hotel
districts. To confirm AirCoach departures and arrivals, call & 01/844-7118 or
find it on the Web at www.aircoach.ie.
If you need to connect with the Irish bus or rail service, the Airlink Express
Coach (& 01/873-4222) provides express coach service from the airport into
the city’s central bus station, Busaras, on Store Street, and on to the two main
rail stations, Connolly and Heuston. Service runs daily from 7am until 11pm
(Sun 7:30am–8:30pm), with departures every 20 to 30 minutes. One-way fare
is €5 ($6) for adults and €2 ($2.40) for children under age 12.
Finally, Dublin Bus (& 01/872-0000; www.dublinbus.ie) service runs
between the airport and the city center between 6am and 11:30pm. The one-
way trip takes about 30 minutes, and the fare is €5 ($6). Nos. 16a, 33, 41, 41a,
41b, 41c, 46x, 58x, 746, 747, and 748 all serve the city center from Dublin Air-
port. Consult the Travel Information Desk located in the Arrivals Concourse to
figure out which bus will bring you closest to your hotel.
Finds The Bird’s-Eye View

To start out with the big picture and to get your bearings once and for all,
make your way to The Old Jameson Distillery (see “Seeing the Sights,”
later in this chapter) and ascend, via glass elevator, to the observation
chamber atop “The Chimney Viewing Tower.” In a city without skyscrapers,
this is your best 360-degree vantage point on Greater (and smaller) Dublin.
The trip to the top costs €5 ($6) for adults, €3.50 ($4.20) for children, and
€15 ($18) for a family. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5:30pm, Sun-
day 11am to 5:30pm. Call & 01/817-3800 for more information.
O R I E N TAT I O N 91
For speed and ease—especially if you have a lot of luggage—a taxi is the best
way to get directly to your hotel or guesthouse. Depending on your destination
in Dublin, fares average between €18 and €25 ($22–$30). Surcharges include
€.50 (60¢) for each additional passenger and for each piece of luggage. Depend-
ing on traffic, a cab should take between 20 and 45 minutes to get into the city
center. A 10% tip is standard. Taxis are lined up at a first-come, first-served taxi
stand outside the arrivals terminal.
Major international and local car-rental companies operate desks at Dublin
Airport. For a list of companies, see “Getting Around,” below.
BY FERRY Passenger and car ferries from Britain arrive at the Dublin Ferry-
port (& 01/855-2222), on the eastern end of the North Docks, and at the Dun
Laoghaire Ferryport. Call Irish Ferries (& 01/661-0511; www.irishferries.ie)
for bookings and information. There is bus and taxi service from both ports.
BY TRAIN Irish Rail (& 01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie) operates daily train
service to Dublin from Belfast, Northern Ireland, and all major cities in the Irish
Republic, including Cork, Galway, Limerick, Killarney, Sligo, Wexford, and
Waterford. Trains from the south, west, and southwest arrive at Heuston Sta-
tion, Kingsbridge, off St. John’s Road; from the north and northwest at Con-
nolly Station, Amiens Street; and from the southeast at Pearse Station,
Westland Row, Tara Street.
BY BUS Bus Eireann (& 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily
express coach and local bus service from all major cities and towns in Ireland
into Dublin’s central bus station, Busaras, Store Street.
BY CAR If you are arriving by car from other parts of Ireland or on a car ferry
from Britain, all main roads lead into the heart of Dublin and are well sign-
posted to An Lar (City Centre). To bypass the city center, the East Link (toll
bridge €1.50/$1.80) and West Link are signposted, and M50 circuits the city
on three sides.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Dublin Tourism operates six walk-in visitor centers in greater Dublin that are
open every day except Christmas. The principal center is on Suffolk Street,
Dublin 2, open from June to August Monday to Saturday from 9am to 8:30pm,
Sunday and bank holidays 10:30am to 3pm, and the rest of the year Monday to
Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, Sunday and bank holidays 10:30am to 3pm. The Suf-
folk Street office includes a currency exchange counter, a car-rental counter, an
accommodations-reservations service, bus and rail information desks, a gift
shop, and a cafe. For accommodations reservations throughout Ireland by credit
card, contact Dublin Tourism at & 01/605-7700; www.visitdublin.com.
The five other centers are in the Arrivals Hall of Dublin Airport; Exclusively
Irish, O’Connell Street, Dublin 1; Baggot Street Bridge, Baggot Street, Dublin
2; The Square Towncentre, Tallaght, Dublin 24; and the ferry terminal at Dun
Laoghaire Harbor (all telephone inquiries should be directed to the number
listed above). All centers are open year-round with at least the following hours:
Monday to Friday 9am to 5:30pm and Saturday 9am to 5pm.
For information on Ireland outside of Dublin, call Bord Fáilte (& 1850/
230330 in Ireland; www.travel.ireland.ie).
At any of these centers you can pick up the free Tourism News; or the free
Event Guide, a biweekly entertainment guide, online at www.eventguide.ie. In
Dublin, a biweekly arts-and-entertainment magazine selling for €3 ($4.20), is
available at most newsstands.
Dublin Orientation
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92
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93
Fun Fact A Toll Tale

Built in 1816 as one of the earliest cast-iron bridges in Britain and Ireland,
the graceful pedestrians-only Ha’penny Bridge (pronounced Hay-penny)
is the most beloved of Dublin bridges. Though officially named the Liffey
Bridge, it’s far better known by the toll that was initially charged to cross
it: half a penny. The turnstiles were removed in 1919, when passage was
declared free to the public.
CITY LAYOUT
Compared to other European capitals, Dublin is a relatively small metropolis
and easily traversed. The city center—identified in Irish on bus destination signs
as AN LAR—is bisected by the River Liffey flowing west to east into Dublin Bay.
Canals ring the city center: The Royal Canal forms a skirt through the north
half, and the Grand Canal the south half. True Dubliners, it is said, live between
the two canals.
Northside suburbs include Drumcondra, Glasnevin, Howth, Clontarf, and
Malahide. Southside suburbs include Ballsbridge, Blackrock, Dun Laoghaire,
Dalkey, Killiney, Rathgar, and Rathmines.
MAIN ARTERIES, STREETS & SQUARES The focal point of Dublin is
the River Liffey, with 16 bridges connecting its north and south banks. The
most famous of these, O’Connell Bridge, was originally made of rope and
could only carry one man and a donkey at a time. It was replaced with a wooden
structure in 1801. The current concrete bridge was built in 1863 and is the only
traffic-carrying bridge in Europe that is wider than it is long. The newest bridge,
the Millennium Bridge, is a footbridge erected in 1999, linking Temple Bar
with the Northside.
On the north side of the river, the main thoroughfare is O’Connell Street, a
wide, two-way avenue that starts at the riverside quays and runs north to Par-
nell Square. Enhanced by statues, trees, and a modern fountain, the O’Connell
Street of earlier days was the glamorous shopping drag of the city. It is still
important today, although neither as fashionable nor as safe as it used to be.
Work is under way, however, to give the north side of the Liffey a mighty
makeover and make it once again a focus of attention.
On the south side of the Liffey, Grafton Street is Dublin’s main shopping
street. It is home to Ireland’s most exclusive department store, Brown Thomas,
and has clearly bent over backward in recent years to attract and please
tourists—though cynics point out, quite rightly, that much of its “Irishness” has
been displaced in recent years by British chain shops. Narrow and restricted to
pedestrians, Grafton Street is the center of Dublin’s commercial district, sur-
rounded by a maze of small streets and lanes that boast a terrific variety of shops,
restaurants, and hotels. At the south end of Grafton Street is St. Stephen’s
Green, the city’s most beloved park and an urban oasis ringed by rows of his-
toric Georgian town houses, fine hotels, and restaurants.
At the north end of Grafton Street, Nassau Street rims the south side of Trin-
ity College. The street is noted for its fine shops and because it leads to Mer-
rion Square, another fashionable Georgian park surrounded by historic
brick-front town houses. Merrion Square is also adjacent to Leinster House, the
Irish House of Parliament, the National Gallery, and the National Museum.
THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 95
In the older section of the city, High Street is the gateway to medieval and
Viking Dublin, from the city’s two medieval cathedrals to the old city walls and
nearby Dublin Castle. The other noteworthy street in the older part of the city
is Francis Street, Dublin’s antiques row.
THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF

Trinity College Area On the exempt from the local jurisdiction
south side of the River Liffey, the within the city walls. Although it
Trinity College complex is a 16.8- prospered in its early days, Liberties
hectare (42-acre) center of acade- fell on hard times in the 17th and
mia in the heart of the city, 18th centuries and is only now feel-
surrounded by fine bookstores and ing a touch of urban renewal. High-
shops. This area lies in the Dublin 2 lights range from the Guinness
postal code. Brewery and Royal Hospital to the
Temple Bar Wedged between original Cornmarket area. Most of
Trinity College and the Old City, this area lies in the Dublin 8 zone.
this section took off in the 1990s St. Stephen’s Green/Grafton Street
and was transformed into the city’s Area A magnet for visitors, this
cultural and entertainment hub. As district is home to some of the city’s
Dublin’s self-proclaimed Left Bank, finest hotels, restaurants, and shops.
Temple Bar offers a vibrant array of There are some stunning residential
cafes, unique shops, art galleries, town houses near the Green, but
recording studios, theaters, trendy this is primarily a business and
restaurants, and atmospheric pubs. shopping neighborhood. It is part
This is largely the stomping ground of the Dublin 2 zone.
of young tourists (it’s a huge stag- Fitzwilliam & Merrion Square
night destination on weekends), These two little square parks are sur-
and it’s easy to feel over the hill if rounded by fashionable brick-faced
you’re over 25. Still, it’s fun and Georgian town houses, each with a
buzzy. This area lies in the Dublin 2 distinctive and colorful doorway.
and Dublin 8 postal codes. Some of Dublin’s most famous citi-
Old City Dating from Viking and zens once resided here; today many
medieval times, the cobblestone of the houses are offices for doctors,
enclave of the historic Old City lawyers, government offices, and
includes Dublin Castle, the rem- other professionals. This area is part
nants of the city’s original walls, and of the Dublin 2 zone.
the city’s two main cathedrals, Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Imme-
Christ Church and St. Patrick’s. In diately south of the Grand Canal,
the past few years, Old City has this is Dublin’s most prestigious
rocketed on to the map as a hip suburb, yet it is within walking dis-
shopping destination, particularly tance of downtown. Although pri-
for fashion (designer boutiques, marily a residential area, it is also
eyewear) and stylish, craft-based the home of some leading hotels,
housewares. The area encompasses restaurants, and embassies, includ-
the Dublin 8 and 2 zones. ing that of the United States. There
Liberties The adjacent Liberties are plenty of upscale hotels in this
district, just west of High Street, part of town, as well as very good
takes its name from the fact that the B&Bs. This area is part of the
people who lived here long ago were Dublin 4 zone.
O’Connell Street (North of the Gresham Hotel. Within walking

Liffey) Once a fashionable and his- distance of O’Connell Street are
toric focal point, this area has lost four theaters, plus the Catholic Pro-
much of its charm and importance Cathedral, the Moore Street open
in recent years but could be poised markets, the Henry Street pedes-
to rebound with the arrival of the trian shopping area, the new Finan-
Northside’s first designer hotel, the cial Services Centre, the ILAC
Morrison. Shops, fast-food restau- Centre, the Jervis Shopping Centre,
rants, and movie theaters rim the and the Central Bus Station. Most
wide, sweeping thoroughfare, where of this area lies in the Dublin 1
you’ll find a few great landmarks postal code.
like the General Post Office and the
2 Getting Around
Getting around Dublin is not at all daunting. Public transportation is good and
getting better, taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced, and there are always your
own two feet. Central Dublin is quite walkable. In fact, with its current traffic
and parking problems, it’s a city where the foot is mightier than the wheel. If
you can avoid it, don’t rent a car while you’re in the city.
BY BUS Dublin Bus operates a fleet of green double-decker buses, single-deck
buses, and minibuses (called “imps”) throughout the city and its suburbs. Most
buses originate on or near O’Connell Street, Abbey Street, and Eden Quay on
the north side, and at Aston Quay, College Street, and Fleet Street on the south
side. Bus stops are located every 2 or 3 blocks. Destinations and bus numbers
are posted above the front windows; buses destined for the city center are
marked with the Irish Gaelic words AN LAR.
Bus service runs daily throughout the city, starting at 6am (10am on Sun),
with the last bus at 11:30pm. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights,
Nitelink service runs from the city center to the suburbs from midnight to 3am.
Buses operate every 10 to 15 minutes for most runs; schedules are posted on
revolving notice boards at each bus stop.
Inner-city fares are calculated based on distances traveled. The minimum fare
is €.80 (95¢); the maximum fare is €2 ($2.40). The Nitelink fare is a flat €4
($4.80). Buy your tickets from the driver as you enter the bus; exact change is
required, so have your loose change available. Notes of €5 or higher may not be
accepted. Discounted 1-day, 3-day, 5-day, and 7-day passes are available. The
1-day bus-only pass costs €5 ($6); The 3-day pass costs €10 ($12); the 5-day
pass goes for €15 ($18); and the 7-day pass costs €18 ($22). For more infor-
mation, contact Dublin Bus, 59 Upper O’Connell St., Dublin 1 (& 01/872-
0000; www.dublinbus.ie).
BY DART While Dublin has no subway in the strict sense, there is an electric
rapid-transit train, known as the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit). It travels
mostly at ground level or on elevated tracks, linking the city-center stations at
Connolly Station, Tara Street, and Pearse Street with suburbs and seaside
communities as far as Malahide to the north and Greystones to the south. Serv-
ice operates roughly every 10 to 20 minutes Monday to Saturday from 7am to
midnight and Sunday from 9:30am to 11pm. The minimum fare is €1 ($1.20).
One-day and 10-journey passes, as well as student and family tickets, are avail-
able at reduced rates. For further information, contact DART, Pearse Station,
Dublin 2 (& 1850/366222 in Ireland, or 01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie).
Dublin Area Rapid Transit (DART) Routes
Malahide
Portmarnock N
Dublin Airport
Bayside
Howth Jn.
Sutton
Finglas Howth
Raheny Kilbarrack
Harmonstown
Howth
Drumcondra
Glasnevin
Killester
Clontarf
Dublin City
Connolly
Center Stops
Tara St. Pearse Dublin

Bay
Lansdowne Rd. Dublin
REPUBLIC
Rathmines Sandymount OF IRELAND
Sydney Parade Booterstown

Terenure Blackrock
Seapoint
Dundrum Dun Laoghaire
Salthill/
Monkstown
Sandycove/Glasthule
Stillorgan
Glenageary
Dalkey
Killiney
DUBLIN
MOUNTAINS
Shankill
Greystone
(Terminus) Bray
97
Fun Fact How Slow is Dublin Traffic?
Minutes taken to transport a package 5km (3 miles):

Singapore 9
Johannesburg 12
London 13
Amsterdam 14
Paris 15
Tokyo 16
New York 17
Moscow 23
Cairo 29
Bombay 37
Frankfurt 53
Dublin 57
Calcutta 270
Source: Small Firms Association, 2002
BY TRAM The newest addition to Dublin’s public transportation network is

set to be the sleek light-rail tram known as LUAS, which opened in the summer
of 2004. Traveling at a maximum speed of 70kmph (45 mph) and departing
every 5 minutes in peak hours, LUAS has already appeased Dublin’s congestion
problems and brought the city’s transportation into the 21st century. Three lines
will eventually link the city center at Connolly Station and St. Stephen’s Green
with the suburbs of Tallaght in the southwest and Dundrum and Sandyford to
the south. For visitors, one of the handiest reasons to use the LUAS is to get
between Connolly and Heuston stations. The one-way fare within the city cen-
ter is €1 ($1.20); 1-day and multiple-day passes are also available. For further
information, contact LUAS (& 01/703-2029; www.luas.ie).
ON FOOT Small and compact, Dublin is ideal for walking, as long as you
remember to look right and then left (in the direction opposite your instincts)
for oncoming traffic before crossing the street, and to obey traffic signals. Each
traffic light has timed “walk–don’t walk” signals for pedestrians. Pedestrians have
the right of way at specially marked, zebra-striped crossings; as a warning, there
are usually two flashing lights at these intersections. For some walking-tour sug-
gestions, see “Seeing the Sights,” later in this chapter.
BY TAXI It’s very difficult to hail a taxi on the street; instead, they line up at
ranks. Ranks are located outside all of the leading hotels, at bus and train sta-
tions, and on prime thoroughfares such as Upper O’Connell Street, College
Green, and the north side of St. Stephen’s Green near the Shelbourne hotel.
You can also phone for a taxi. Some of the companies that operate a 24-hour
radio-call service are Co-Op (& 01/676-6666), Shamrock Radio Cabs (& 01/
855-5444), and VIP Taxis (& 01/478-3333). If you need a wake-up call, VIP
offers that service, along with especially courteous dependability.
Taxi rates are fixed by law and posted in each vehicle. The following are typi-
cal travel costs in the city center: A 3.25km (2-mile) journey costs €8 ($9.60) by
GETTING AROUND 99
day and €10 ($12) at night; an 8km (5-mile) journey runs €10 ($12) by day and
€12 ($14) at night; and a 16km (10-mile) journey costs €20 ($24) by day and
€22 ($26) at night. There’s an additional charge of €.50 (60¢) for each extra pas-
senger and for each suitcase. And it costs an extra €1.50 ($1.80) for a dispatched
pickup. Be warned: Some hotel staff members will tack on as much as €4
($4.80) for calling you a cab, although this practice violates city taxi regulations.
BY CAR Unless you plan to do a lot of driving from Dublin to neighboring
counties, it’s not practical or affordable to rent a car. In fact, getting around the
city and its environs is much easier without a car.
If you must drive in Dublin, remember to keep to the left-hand side of the
road, and don’t drive in bus lanes. The speed limit within the city is 46kmph
(30 mph), and seat belts must be worn at all times by driver and passengers.
Most major international car-rental firms are represented in Dublin, as are
many Irish-based companies. They have desks at the airport, full-service offices
downtown, or both. The rates vary greatly according to company, season, type
of car, and duration of rental. In high season, the average weekly cost of a car,
from subcompact standard to full-size automatic, ranges from €200 to €1,525
($240–$1,830); you’ll be much better off if you’ve made your car-rental arrange-
ments well in advance from home. (Also see “By Car” under “Getting Around”
in chapter 2.)
International firms represented in Dublin include Avis, 1 Hanover St. E.,
Dublin 1, and at Dublin Airport (& 01/605-7500; www.avis.ie); Budget, in
Dublin (& 01/662-7711; www.budget.ie), and at Dublin Airport (& 01/844-
5150); Hertz, 149 Upper Leeson St., Dublin 4 (& 01/660-2255; www.hertz.
ie), and at Dublin Airport (& 01/844-5466); and Murray’s Europcar, Baggot
Street Bridge, Dublin 4 (toll-free & 1850/403803; www.europcar.ie), and at
Dublin Airport (& 01/812-0410).
During normal business hours, free parking on Dublin streets is nonexistent.
Never park in bus lanes or along a curb with double yellow lines. City officials
will either clamp or tow errant vehicles. To get your car declamped, the fee is
€85 ($102); if your car is towed away, it costs €165 ($198) to reclaim it.
Throughout Dublin, you’ll find multibay meters and “pay and display” disc
parking. In Dublin, a five-pack of discs costs €6.35 ($7.60). Each ticket is good
for a maximum of 3 hours. The most reliable and safest places to park are sur-
face parking lots and multistory car parks in central locations such as Kildare
Street, Lower Abbey Street, Marlborough Street, and St. Stephen’s Green West.
Expect to pay €1.90 ($2.30) per hour and €19 ($23) for 24 hours. Night rates
run €6.35 to €9 ($7.65–$11) per hour. The bottom line here is that you’re bet-
ter off without a car in Dublin. The city is aggressively discouraging cars for
commuters, much less for tourists.
BY BICYCLE The steady flow of Dublin traffic rushing down one-way streets
may be a little intimidating for most cyclists, but there are many opportunities
for more relaxed pedaling in residential areas and suburbs, along the seafront,
and around Phoenix Park. The Dublin Tourism office can supply you with bicy-
cle touring information and suggested routes.
Bicycle rental averages €20 ($24) per day, €80 ($96) per week, with a €65
($78) deposit. The one-way rental fee is €100 ($120). In the downtown area,
bicycles can be rented from Raleigh Ireland, Kylemore Road, Dublin 10 (& 01/
626-1333).
FAST FACTS: Dublin

For countrywide information, see “Fast Facts: Ireland” in chapter 2.
Airport See “Orientation,” earlier in this chapter.
American Express American Express International, 41 Nassau St., Dublin
2 (toll-free & 1890/205511), is a full-service travel agency that also offers
currency exchange, traveler’s checks, and (for members) mail-holding. It is
opposite Trinity College, just off College Green, and is open Monday to
Saturday 9am to 5pm. American Express also has a desk at the Dublin
Tourism Office on Suffolk Street (& 01/605-7709). In an emergency, trav-
eler’s checks can be reported lost or stolen by dialing toll-free in Ireland
& 1890/706706.
Banks Nearly all banks are open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm (to 5pm
Thurs) and have ATMs that accept Cirrus network cards as well as Master-
Card and Visa. Convenient locations include the Bank of Ireland, at 1
Ormond Quay, Dublin 7, and 34 College Green, Dublin 2, and the Allied
Irish Bank, at 64 Grafton St., Dublin 2, and 37 O’Connell St., Dublin 1.
Business Hours Banks are open 10am to 4pm Monday to Wednesday and
Friday, and 10am to 5pm Thursday. Post Offices (known as An Post) are
open from 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and from
9am to 1:30pm Saturday. The GPO on O’Connell Street is open 8am to 8pm
Monday to Saturday, and 10:30am to 6:30pm Sunday (for stamps only).
Museums and Sights are generally open 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Saturday,
and 2 to 5pm Sunday. Shops generally open 9am to 6pm Monday to Fri-
day, with late opening on Thursday until 7 or 8pm. In the city center most
department stores and many shops are open noon to 6pm on Sunday.
Currency Exchange Currency-exchange services, signposted as BUREAU DE
CHANGE, are in all banks and at many branches of the Irish post office sys-
tem, known as An Post. A bureau de change operates daily during flight
arrival and departure times at Dublin airport; a foreign currency note-
exchanger machine is also available on a 24-hour basis in the main arrivals
hall. Some hotels and travel agencies offer bureau de change services,
although the best rate of exchange is usually when you use your bank
card at an ATM.
Dentists For dental emergencies, contact the Eastern Health Board
Headquarters, Dr. Steevens Hospital, Dublin 8 (& 01/679-0700), or try
Molesworth Clinic, 2 Molesworth Place, Dublin 2 (& 01/661-5544). See
also “Dental Surgeons” in the Golden Pages (Yellow Pages) of the tele-
phone book. The American Embassy (see “Embassies & Consulates,”
below) can provide a list of dentists in the city and surrounding areas.
Expect to be charged upfront for services.
Doctors If you need to see a physician, most hotels and guesthouses will
contact a house doctor for you. The American Embassy (see “Embassies &
Consulates,” below) can provide a list of doctors in the city and surround-
ing areas and you should contact them first. Otherwise, you can call either
the Eastern Health Board Headquarters, Dr. Steevens Hospital, Dublin 8
(& 01/679-0700), or the Irish Medical Organization, 10 Fitzwilliam Place,
Dublin 2 (& 01/676-7273). As with dentists, expect to pay for treatment
FA S T FA C T S : D U B L I N 101
upfront and when you return home, contact your insurance company to
see if you are eligible for reimbursement.
Embassies & Consulates The American Embassy is at 42 Elgin Rd., Balls-
bridge, Dublin 4 (& 01/668-8777); the Canadian Embassy at 65–68 St.
Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 (& 01/417-4100); the British Embassy at 31
Merrion Rd., Dublin 2 (& 01/205-3700); and the Australian Embassy at
Fitzwilton House, Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2 (& 01/664-5300). In addition,
there is an American Consulate at 14 Queen St., Belfast BT1 6EQ (& 028/
9032-8239).
Emergencies For police, fire, or other emergencies, dial & 999.
Gay & Lesbian Resources Contact the Gay Switchboard Dublin, Carmichael
House, North Brunswick Street, Dublin 7 (& 01/872-1055; fax 01/873-5737);
the National Lesbian and Gay Federation (NLGF), 6 S. William St., Dublin
2 (& 01/671-0939; fax 01/679-1603); or the LOT (Lesbians Organizing
Together), 5 Capel St., Dublin 1 (& 01/872-7770). For fuller listings, see
“Tips for Travelers with Special Needs” in chapter 2.
Hospitals For emergency care, two of the most modern are St. Vincent’s
University Hospital, Elm Park (& 01/269-4533), on the south side of the city,
and Beaumont Hospital, Beaumont (& 01/837-7755), on the north side.
Hot Lines In Ireland, hot lines are called “helplines.” For emergencies,
police, or fire, dial & 999; Aids Helpline (& 01/872-4277), Monday to Fri-
day from 7am to 9pm and Saturday from 3 to 5pm; Alcoholics Anonymous
(& 01/453-8998 and after hours 01/679-5967); Asthma Line (& 1850/445-
464); Narcotics Anonymous (& 01/672-8000); Rape Crisis Centre (& 01/
661-4911) and FreeFone (& 1800/778-888), after 5:30pm and weekends
(& 01/661-4564); and Samaritans (& 01/872-7700 and 1850/609-090).
Information For directory assistance, dial & 11811. For visitor informa-
tion offices, see “Orientation,” earlier in this chapter.
Internet Access In cybersavvy Dublin, public access terminals are no
longer hard to find, appearing in shopping malls, hotels, and hostels
throughout the city center. Like all of Dublin’s public libraries, the Central
Library, in the ILAC Centre, off Henry Street, Dublin 1 (& 01/873-4333),
has a bank of PCs with free Internet access. Three centrally located cyber-
cafes are the Central Cybercafe, 6 Grafton St., Dublin 2 (& 01/677-8298),
Planet Cyber Café, 13 St. Andrews St., Dublin 2 (& 01/670-5182), and The
Connect Point, 33 Dorset St. Lower, Dublin 1 (& 01/834-9821). A half-hour
online averages €3.50 ($4.20).
Magazines The leading magazines for upcoming events and happenings
are In Dublin (€3/$3.60), published every 2 weeks, and the free biweekly
Event Guide (www.eventguide.ie). The Event Guide, which contains up-
to-date listings of events throughout Ireland with a focus on Dublin, is
widely available. Where: Dublin, published bimonthly, is aimed specifically
at tourists and visitors and is a useful one-stop source for shopping, din-
ing, and entertainment. It’s free at the more exclusive hotels.
Pharmacies Centrally located drugstores, known locally as pharmacies
or chemist shops, include Dame Street Pharmacy, 16 Dame St., Dublin 2
(& 01/670-4523). A late-night chemist shop is Hamilton Long & Co., 5
Lower O’Connell St. (& 01/874-8456), and its sister branch at 4 Merrion
Rd., Dublin 4 (& 01/668-3287). Both branches close at 9pm on weeknights
and 6pm on Saturday.
Police Dial & 999 in an emergency. The metropolitan headquarters for
the Dublin Garda Siochana (Police) is in Phoenix Park, Dublin 8 (& 01/
666-0000).
Post Office The Irish post office is best known by its Gaelic name, An Post.
The General Post Office (GPO) is located on O’Connell Street, Dublin 1
(& 01/705-7000; www.anpost.ie). Hours are Monday to Saturday 8am to
8pm, Sunday and holidays 10:30am to 6:30pm. Branch offices, identified
by the sign OIFIG AN POST/POST OFFICE, are open Monday to Saturday only, 9am
to 5pm.
Weather Phone & 1550/122112, or check the Web at www.ireland.com/
weather.
Yellow Pages The classified section of the telephone book is called the
Golden Pages (www.goldenpages.ie).
3 Where to Stay
From legendary old-world landmarks to sleek high-rises, Dublin offers a great
diversity of places to stay. The good news is that we’ve noticed prices starting
to actually come down, especially in the luxury category. So travelers on a
moderate budget should be able to more easily find comfortable, attractive
accommodations.
The Irish Tourist Board implements a grading system consistent with those of
other European countries and international standards, ranking hotels with one
to five stars. While this system is helpful as a guideline of the comfort level you
can expect, it is based strictly on facilities and amenities and fails to take into
consideration atmosphere, decor, charm, friendly owners, or an especially
appealing breakfast. Moreover, some hotels are ungraded—usually because they
are brand-new or they simply choose to remain out of the system. For example,
The Clarence hotel, owned by members of the band U2, is ungraded (presum-
ably out of preference) but certainly falls into the luxury category.
In this guide, we give each hotel zero to three stars, based on overall value for
money. As a result, a fine but expensive hotel may get one star, while an excel-
lent budget choice may get two.
In general, rates for Dublin hotels do not vary as greatly with the seasons as
they do in the countryside. Some hotels charge slightly higher prices during spe-
cial events, such as the Dublin Horse Show. For the best deals, try to reserve a
room over a weekend, and ask if there is a reduction or a weekend package in
effect. Some Dublin hotels cut their rates by as much as 50% on Friday and Sat-
urday nights, when business traffic is low. Just to complicate matters, other
hotels, especially in the off season, offer midweek specials.
It usually pays to book hotels well in advance. Many hotels can be booked
through toll-free numbers in the United States, and the quoted prices offered
can be appreciably (as much as 40%) lower than those offered at the door. Even
better, book online. We’ve noticed that many hotels frequently offer the deepest
discounts to travelers who book through their websites.
W H E R E T O S TAY 103
If you arrive in Ireland without a reservation, don’t worry. One of the best
sources of last-minute rooms (usually at a big discount) is www.visitdublin.
com. The website has a handy icon that lets you view hotels and guesthouses
with immediate availability.
Another option is to arrive in person at the nearest tourist office. Staff mem-
bers throughout the Republic and Northern Ireland will gladly find you a room
using a computerized reservation service known as Gulliver. In Ireland or
Northern Ireland, you can also call the Gulliver line directly (& 00800/668-
668-66). This is a nationwide and cross-border “free-phone” facility for credit
card bookings, operated daily 8am to 11pm. Gulliver is also accessible from the
United States (& 011-800/668-668-66) and on the Web at www.gulliver.ie.
HISTORIC OLD CITY & TEMPLE BAR/TRINITY COLLEGE AREA
Temple Bar is the youngest, most vibrant niche in a young, vibrant town. Stay
here and you’ll be on the doorstep of practically anywhere you’d want to go.
That said, it can get woefully noisy at night, so request a room on a top floor if
you want some shut-eye.
If you’ve got more dash than cash, head just west of Temple Bar to Old City.
You’ll be in one of the up-and-coming pockets of town, but hoteliers haven’t yet
started jacking up their rates to reflect the area’s newfound popularity.
VERY EXPENSIVE
The Clarence So what if the place is partly owned by members of the
rock band U2? Don’t dismiss it as a glitzy, see-and-be-seen haunt for celebrities
(Robert DeNiro, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Mick Jagger are fans)—The Clarence
is one of the finest and truly stylish hotels in Dublin. Situated beside the Liffey
in Temple Bar, this mid-19th-century, Regency-style hotel was totally over-
hauled in 1996 to offer larger rooms and luxurious suites. In the process it
traded antique charm for contemporary elegance. Each room features a rich
color—crimson, royal blue, eggplant, chocolate, or gold—against cream walls
and light Shaker-style oak furniture, including exceptionally firm beds. Twin
rooms are available but most doubles feature king-size beds. Suites and deluxe
rooms have balconies, some overlooking the Liffey. The Clarence’s elegant Tea
Room restaurant (p. 119), in what was once the ballroom, is one of the best
places in town to dine on contemporary Irish cuisine. For drinks and lighter
fare, there’s the hip Octagon Bar or the Study, which has the feel of a gentlemen’s
club and is a relaxing hangout for guests. This hotel is at the cutting edge of
gadgetry, offering an interactive TV/DVD/broadband Internet system in every
room.
6–8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. & 01/670-9000. Fax 01/407-0820. www.theclarence.ie. 50 units. €315
($380) double; €640 ($771) 1-bedroom suite; €780 ($940) 2-bedroom suite. Full Irish breakfast €28 ($33).
AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking/service. Bus: 51B, 51C, 68, 69, or 79. Amenities: Restaurant (eclectic Continen-
tal); bar; concierge; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; foreign-
currency exchange; study. In room: A/C, interactive TV/DVD/broadband system, minibar, hair dryer, safe.
Tips A Parking Note

The majority of Dublin hotels do not offer parking; if you have a car, you’ll
have to find (and pay for) street parking. In this section, we’ve provided
parking information only for the few hotels that do offer parking
arrangements or discounts for guests.
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M O D E R AT E
Eliza Lodge This hotel opened a few years ago right beside the Liffey and
embodies all the exuberance and zest of Temple Bar. Rooms are very attractive,
done up in neutral creams and blond woods, with big floor-to-ceiling windows—
the better to take in the riverside vistas. At the top end, executive rooms have
Jacuzzi tubs and mod, round bay windows perched over the quay. But a better-
value splurge are the smaller penthouse doubles, which have balconies overlook-
ing the river for €190 ($229).
23 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. & 01/671-8044. Fax 01/671-8362. www.dublinlodge.com. 18 units. €130–
€152 ($157–$183) double. AE, MC, V. Bus: 51B, 51C, 68, 69, or 79. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; nonsmoking
rooms. In room: A/C, TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Jurys Inn Christchurch Value A good location in Old City, facing Christ
Church cathedral, makes this a solid choice in the budget category. Totally refur-
bished in 1998, the rooms are larger than you’d expect and bright, though the
decor has the same floral bedspreads and framed watercolors as every other chain
hotel you’ve ever visited. Make your reservations early and request a fifth-floor
room facing west for a memorable view of Christ Church. Tip: Room nos. 501,
507, and 419 are especially spacious.
Christ Church Place, Dublin 8. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 01/454-0000. Fax 01/454-0012. www.
jurys.com. 182 units. €108–€117 ($130–$141) double. Service charge included. Breakfast €9.50 ($12).
AE, MC, V. Discounted parking available at adjacent lot. Bus: 21A, 50, 50A, 78, 78A, or 78B. Amenities:
Restaurant (Continental); pub; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV, cof-
feemaker, hair dryer.
The Morgan If you love Temple Bar but can’t afford to stay at The
Clarence, this is a fabulous second choice. In just a few short years, this stylized
little boutique hotel has developed a
cult following among folks in fashion
Tips Service Charges and music. Rooms are airy and mini-
A reminder: Unless otherwise malist, featuring light beechwood fur-
noted, room rates don’t include nishings and crisp, white bedspreads
service charges (usually 10%– against creamy neutral tones, with a
15% of your bill). smattering of modern artworks adding
visual punch. The overall effect is
understated elegance, with a modern,
luxurious twist. But the attraction here goes beyond mere good looks. Every
detail—from the classy cutlery to the way the staff is unobtrusively attentive—
hits just the right note. Though it sounds like a contradiction in terms, this place
manages to be both trendy and a classic at the same time.
10 Fleet St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-3939. Fax 01/679-3946. www.themorgan.com. 66 units. €126–€209
($152–$252) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 78A or 78B. Amenities: Cafe; bar; fitness center; room service; aro-
matherapy/masseuse; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; video/CD library. In room: TV/VCR, dataport, tea/cof-
feemaker, iron, safe, CD player, garment press, voice mail.
Temple Bar Hotel It’s twice as big and half as stylish as the Morgan but
still a solid pick if the Morgan is sold out. The five-story hotel was developed
from a former bank building with great care taken to preserve the brick facade
and Victorian mansard roof. The Art Deco lobby features a cast-iron fireplace
and plenty of greenery. Guest rooms feature traditional mahogany furnishings
and an autumnal russet-and-green color palette, with a very comfortable level of
amenities. The double-size orthopedic beds are blissfully firm, though they
make the rooms fairly cramped. The hotel has a sky-lit, garden-style Terrace
Fun Fact What’s in a Name?

The “bar” in Temple Bar has nothing to do with a pub or the law. It is the
old Irish word for a riverside path.
Restaurant serving light fare (sandwiches and pasta) and an Old Dublin–theme
pub called Buskers.
Fleet St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 01/677-3333. Fax 01/677-3088. www.
towerhotelgroup.ie. 129 units. €99–€195 ($120–$235) double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC,
V. DART: Tara St. Bus: 78A or 78B. Amenities: Restaurant (light fare); bar; access to a nearby health club;
concierge; room service; foreign-currency exchange. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
S E L F - C AT E R I N G
25 Eustace Street Finds This wonderfully restored Georgian town house,
dating from 1720, has an enviable location smack in the heart of Temple Bar. It
is a showcase property for the Irish Landmark Trust, whose mission is to rescue
neglected historic buildings and restore them. And that it does with aplomb. 25
Eustace Street is the only property that the ILT lets out for fewer than 3 nights,
and it is truly a privilege to stay here for even 1 night. The house has been faith-
fully reinstated to the gracious, slightly sober atmosphere of a house of its
period, with a superb timber-paneled staircase, fireplaces in every room, mainly
mahogany furniture, and brass beds. You have the run of three entire floors of
the house, including a huge drawing room with a baby grand piano, dining
room, equipped galley kitchen, and three bedrooms (a double, a twin, and a
triple). There are two bathrooms, one of which is enormous with an extra-
roomy cast-iron claw-foot tub placed dead center. Bookshelves and deep win-
dowsills have been thoughtfully stocked with classics by Irish novelists. Like all
ILT properties, there is no TV. (To have it any other way would seem a callous
intrusion.) All this, and Temple Bar at your doorstep.
25 Eustace St., Dublin 2. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust & 01/670-4733. Fax 01/670-4887. landmark@
iol.ie. 1 apt. €285 ($343) per night or €1,340 ($1,615) per week. Payable by AE, MC, V at booking. Amenities:
Full kitchen. In room: No phone.
ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN/GRAFTON STREET AREA

Location, location, location: The area around St. Stephen’s Green is the epicen-
ter of the city’s shopping and sightseeing. So what’s not to love? Prepare to pay
more for less here.
VERY EXPENSIVE
The Fitzwilliam Hotel Take an unbeatable location with stunning
views over the Green, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant, and an ultracool,
contemporary design by Terence Conran, and you have the makings of The
Fitzwilliam. Conran has a knack for easygoing sophistication, using clean lines
and only a few neutral colors (white, beige, gray) throughout the public rooms
and guest rooms. Every detail echoes the theme of understated luxury—even the
staff uniforms are custom-made by Irish designers Marc O’Neill and Cuan
Hanly. Rooms are beautifully appointed and very relaxing. One of Dublin’s best
restaurants, the two-Michelin-starred Thornton’s, is downstairs, and you can
also have a meal at the more casual restaurant, Citron, or in the traditional Inn
on the Green bar. If staying somewhere designerish and trendy is important to
you, this gets the nod over The Shelbourne.
109 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. & 01/478-7000. Fax 01/478-7878. www.fitzwilliamhotel.com. 130 units.
€340 ($410) double. Breakfast €20 ($24). AE, DC, MC, V. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B. Ameni-
ties: 2 restaurants (French, International); bar; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning;
nonsmoking rooms; foreign-currency exchange; roof garden. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, fax, dataport, minibar,
tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, CD player, garment press, voice mail.
EXPENSIVE
Brooks Hotel If you love the neighborhood but can’t quite afford The
Shelbourne (see below) or The Fitzwilliam (see above), this 6-year-old hotel
offers excellent services and doesn’t scrimp on the in-room creature comforts.
Every room has a king-size orthopedic bed, handmade oak furniture from Gal-
way, and a bold but tasteful color scheme. The bathrooms have blissfully pow-
erful showers. Superior and executive rooms (still cheaper than a standard
double at the Shelbourne or Fitzwilliam) are extra-spacious and have VCRs and
antique radios. The oak-paneled drawing room is a restful oasis for tea or sherry
while you peruse the Irish Times.
59–62 Drury St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-4000. Fax 01/670-4455. www.sinnotthotels.com/brooks. 98 units.
€180–€265 ($217–$319) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Discounted overnight parking at adjacent car park. DART:
Tara St. or Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 20B, or 46A. Amenities: Restaurant (international);
bar; minigym; concierge; secretarial services; room service; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking
floors; foreign-currency exchange; video library. In room: A/C, TV, VCR (in superior rooms and up), fax, data-
port, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe, garment press.
Browne’s Townhouse If you love luxury but hate big chain hotels, look
no further than this sumptuously restored Georgian town house with an unbeat-
able location on St. Stephen’s Green. Originally a gentleman’s club, it was con-
verted in 2000 into one of the city’s best boutique hotels and has been chalking
up awards and accolades ever since. Downstairs is all Georgian splendor: comfy
wingback chairs, rich upholsteries, ornate ceiling plasterwork. The 11 guest
rooms come in all shapes and sizes, but all are sumptuously decorated with
period furnishings, four-poster king-size beds (some of them 2.5m/8 ft. wide!),
marble bathrooms, and unique architectural details. When you book, voice your
decor preferences; rooms vary drastically according to masculine, feminine, clas-
sic, or elaborate tastes. If you splurge on the Thomas Leighton suite, you’ll sleep
on a magnificent king-size mahogany Murphy bed that once belonged to Mar-
ilyn Monroe. Downstairs, the elegant brasserie serves up excellent traditional
French fare.
22 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. & 01/638-3939. Fax 01/638-3900. www.brownesdublin.com. 11 units.
€210–€240 ($253–$289) double. Breakfast €10–€17 ($12–$21). MC, V. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B,
13, or 20B. Amenities: Restaurant (French). In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
The Shelbourne While The Fitzwilliam is all about cutting-edge style,

The Shelbourne is all about tradition. This is Dublin’s answer to the Grand
Hotel, and nothing—not even getting swallowed up by the Meridien Group—
has changed its status. Founded in 1824, it has played a significant role in Irish
history—the constitution was drafted here in 1922, in room no. 112. The Shel-
bourne often plays host to international leaders, movie stars, and literary giants.
Guest rooms vary in size, but all offer up-to-date comforts and are beautifully
appointed with antiques and period pieces. Ask for one that overlooks bucolic
St. Stephen’s Green. The public areas, replete with glowing fireplaces, Waterford
chandeliers, and original artworks, are popular rendezvous spots for Dublin’s
movers and shakers. (Indeed, the Horseshoe Bar remains the preferred watering
hole for sealing deals over a pint of Guinness.) The fitness center is state-of-the-
art, and service is impeccable. Needless to say, you don’t stay here just for the
beds but for a slice of Irish heritage. Note: The Shelbourne is undergoing exten-
sive renovations throughout 2005, with only half of the rooms available for
guest stays.
27 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. & 800/225-5843 in the U.S. or 01/663-4500. Fax 01/661-6006. www.
shelbourne.ie. 190 units. €185–€200 ($223–$240) double. Breakfast €20–€26 ($24–$31). AE, DC, MC, V.
Limited free parking. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B. Amenities: 2 restaurants (Continental,
modern Irish); 2 bars; fitness center; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; barber shop;
beauty and spa treatments; foreign-currency exchange; safe-deposit boxes; tearoom; video library. In room:
A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, radio.
Stephen’s Hall Value How suite it is. Wonderfully situated on the south-
east corner of St. Stephen’s Green in a handsome Georgian town house, this
Clarion all-suite hotel offers great value for families, visitors who plan an
extended stay, or folks who want to entertain or do their own cooking. Each
suite is tastefully decorated and contains a sitting room, dining area, fully
equipped kitchenette, bathroom, and bedroom. The luxury penthouse suites, on
the upper floors, offer great views of the city. Ground-level town-house suites
have private entrances.
14–18 Lower Leeson St., Dublin 2. & 877/424-6423 in the U.S. or 01/638-1111. Fax 01/638-1122. www.
stephens-hall.com. 33 units. €160–€230 ($193–$277) 1-bedroom suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Free parking. DART: Pearse. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 13, 13A, or 13B. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental);
bar; access to nearby health club; concierge; babysitting; nonsmoking floor; safe-deposit boxes; video library.
In room: TV, fax, dataport, CD player.
M O D E R AT E
Central Hotel Between Grafton Street and Dublin Castle, this century-old
five-story hotel is now part of the Best Western chain. The public areas retain a
Victorian atmosphere, enhanced by an impressive collection of contemporary
Irish art. Guest rooms are high-ceilinged, with cheerful and colorful fabrics, and
sturdy, Irish-made furnishings. The tucked-away Library Bar is a cozy haven for
a drink and a moment’s calm.
1–5 Exchequer St. (at the corner of Great Georges St.), Dublin 2. & 800/780-1234 in the U.S. or 01/679-
7302. Fax 01/679-7303. www.centralhotel.ie. 70 units. €135–€175 ($163–$211) double. Rates include
service charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Discounted parking in nearby public lot. Bus: 22A.
Amenities: Restaurant (Irish/Continental); lounge; bar; room service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, mini-
bar, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, garment press, voice mail.
Molesworth Court Suites Hate hotels? Then consider an apartment.

Tucked away behind Mansion House, Molesworth Courts is no more than 5
minutes on foot to Stephen’s Green and yet is country quiet. These tastefully
decorated, comfortable apartments offer everything you need to set up your own
base in Dublin, whether for a night or a month. They all have small balconies,
and the bi-level penthouses have spacious verandas. The staff here goes the extra
mile to be helpful, and there’s daily maid service. The internal phone system
provides you with a private extension and your own voice mail. If, despite the
fact that you have your own kitchen, you want to let others do your cooking,
you can order out from any of the roughly 25 local restaurants listed in the
Restaurant Express menu booklet lying only an arm’s reach from the couch.
Schoolhouse Lane (off Molesworth St.), Dublin 2. & 01/676-4799. Fax 01/676-4982. www.molesworth
court.ie. 12 units. €160 ($193) 1-bedroom apt; €200 ($240) 2-bedroom apt. Nonrefundable booking
deposit of €100 ($120) due 4 weeks before arrival. AE, MC, V. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
Amenities: Laundry. In room: TV.
Number 31 A discreet plaque at an elegant gated entrance in the heart

of Georgian Dublin is your only clue that what lies beyond is an award-winning
town-house B&B. The house is actually two beautifully renovated architectural

show houses—it’s the former home of Sam Stephenson, Ireland’s best-known
modern architect—featuring a fabulous sunken fireside seating area with mosaic
tiles in the main lounge. In the main house, rooms vary from grand, high-
ceilinged affairs to cozier nests. The smaller coach house has lower ceilings, but
some rooms have their own patios. All the rooms are a triumph of quiet, good
taste, decorated with fine fabrics against a cream backdrop. Breakfast is truly
magnificent—think mushroom frittatas, cranberry bread, and scrumptious lit-
tle potato cakes.
31 Leeson Close, Lower Leeson St., Dublin 2. & 01/676-5011. Fax 01/676-2929. www.number31.ie. 20
units, all with bathroom. €175–€199 ($211–$239) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking.
Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 13, 13A, or 13B. Amenities: Bar; lounge. In room: TV, hair dryer.
INEXPENSIVE
Frankie’s Guesthouse Billed as Dublin’s only guesthouse exclusively for
lesbians and gays, Frankie’s is a charming, mews-style building with a wonder-
ful address in the heart of Georgian Dublin. Set on a quiet back street, the house
has a Mediterranean feel, with fresh whitewashed rooms and simple furnishings.
Book well in advance, especially for a weekend stay.
8 Camden Place, Dublin 2. &/fax 01/478-3087. www.frankiesguesthouse.com. 12 units, 5 with private
bathroom. €100 ($120) double with private bathroom; €82 ($99) double with shared bathroom. Rates
include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Bus: 16, 16A, 16C, 19A, 22, or 22A. Amenities: TV lounge; sauna; roof terrace.
In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
FITZWILLIAM SQUARE/MERRION SQUARE AREA

This Georgian neighborhood feels a lot like the nearby St. Stephen’s Green area,
but its streets are less busy and commercialized. Fitzwilliam Square and Merrion
Square are each little square parks surrounded by Georgian town houses with col-
orful doors. Some of Dublin’s most famous citizens once resided here; today many
of the houses are offices for doctors, lawyers, government officials, and other
professionals. This area is only a few minutes on foot from St. Stephen’s Green
and Grafton Street, but accommodations tend to be considerably less pricey.
EXPENSIVE
Longfield’s Created from two 18th-century Georgian town houses, this
award-winning hotel is a small, elegant alternative to the large upscale hotels in
this area. The hotel is named after Richard Longfield (also known as Viscount
Longueville), who originally owned this site and was a member of the Irish Par-
liament 2 centuries ago. Totally restored and recently refurbished, it combines
Georgian decor and reproduction-period furnishings of dark woods and brass
trim. The standard-size rooms are on the small side; the best doubles feature
four-poster beds. Like the eye of a storm, Longfield’s is centrally located yet
remarkably quiet, an elegant yet unpretentious getaway 5 minutes’ walk from St.
Stephen’s Green. The restaurant, simply known as Number 10, is beloved by
foodies.
10 Lower Fitzwilliam St., Dublin 2. & 01/676-1367. Fax 01/676-1542. www.longfields.ie. 26 units. €180–
€215 ($217–$259) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10. Amenities:
Restaurant (international); concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning. In room: TV, hair dryer,
clock radio.
M O D E R AT E
Kilronan House This extremely comfortable B&B is set on a peaceful,
leafy road just 5 minutes’ walk from St. Stephen’s Green. Much of the Georgian
character remains, such as the ceiling cornicing, hardwood parquet floors, and
the fine staircase. The sitting room on the ground floor is particularly intimate,
with a fire glowing through the cold months of the year. The rooms are brightly
inviting in white and yellow, and those facing the front have commodious bay
windows. There’s no elevator, so consider requesting a room on a lower floor.
The front rooms, facing Adelaide Street, are also preferable to those in back,
which face onto office buildings and a parking lot. Breakfast here is especially
good, featuring homemade breads.
70 Adelaide Rd., Dublin 2. & 01/475-5266. Fax 01/478-2841. www.dublinn.com. 15 units, 13 with private
bathroom (shower only). €90–€152 ($108–$183) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free pri-
vate parking. Bus: 14, 15, 19, 20, or 46A. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
BALLSBRIDGE/EMBASSY ROW AREA

Visitors want to stay here for the same reason Dubliners want to live here: qual-
ity of life. It’s the most prestigious part of town, known for its embassies, tree-
lined streets, and historic buildings. If you’re coming to Dublin specifically for
a conference at the RDS show grounds or a match at the Lansdowne Rugby
Ground, this neighborhood will put you right in the thick of things. The down-
side is that it’s a good 20- to 30-minute walk to get into the city’s best sightsee-
ing and shopping areas.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Four Seasons Kids If money is no object, the Four Seasons blows
Dublin’s other luxury hotels out of the water in terms of services and leisure
facilities. The health club is state-of-the-art, and the spa treatments top-flight
(some, like massage, are available in your room). The indoor pool and whirlpool
complex overlooks a sunken garden—just one small example of how beauty is
worked into the overall design of the hotel. The public rooms and guest rooms
share a smart and very plush look, thanks to liberal use of natural elements and
fine fabrics. This is an absolutely fabulous place for families. Not only are there
complimentary cribs, child-proof bedrooms, and a babysitting service, but there
is also a menu of children’s activities to keep the kids occupied while you have a
romantic meal, grab a massage, or just kick back for some quiet meditation (the
better to prepare yourself for the bill). Always check the website’s rates before
booking; online discounts can be fantastic.
Simmonscourt Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. & 800/819-5053 in the U.S. or 01/665-4000. Fax 01/665-4099.
www.fourseasons.com. 259 units. €395–€795 ($476–$958) double. Breakfast €25 ($30). AE, DC, MC, V.
Valet parking. DART: Sandymount (5-min. walk). Bus: 7, 7A, 7X, 8, or 45. Amenities: 2 restaurants (modern
Continental, cafe); lobby lounge; bar; indoor pool; health club/spa; whirlpool; children’s programs; concierge;
room service; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV/VCR, dataport, minibar, hair
dryer, safe, CD player available, radio, voice mail.
EXPENSIVE
Berkeley Court The first Irish member of Leading Hotels of the World,
the Berkeley Court (pronounced Bark-lay) has a distinguished address near the
American embassy. A favorite haunt of diplomats and international business
leaders, the hotel is known for its posh gold-and-blue lobby decorated with fine
antiques, original paintings, mirrored columns, and Irish-made carpets and fur-
nishings. The guest rooms aim to convey an air of elegance, but some visitors
might find them overly busy and fussy—think patterned wallpaper, patterned
bedspreads, and still more patterns on the carpet. Nevertheless, they are decked
out in designer fabrics, firm half-canopy beds, dark woods, and bathrooms fit-
ted with marble accouterments. The well-tended grounds were once part of the
Botanic Gardens of University College.
Lansdowne Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 01/660-1711. Fax 01/661-7238.
www.jurysdoyle.com. 188 units. €159–€700 ($192–$843) double. Breakfast €20–€26 ($24–$31). AE, DC,
MC, V. Free valet parking. DART: Lansdowne Rd. Bus: 7, 8, or 45. Amenities: 2 restaurants (Continental,
bistro); lounge; bar; concierge; salon; room service; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms; foreign-currency
exchange. In room: TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, safe, garment press, radio, voice mail.
The Hibernian Hotel This grand, restored Victorian hotel manages to

exude both the elegance of a graceful town house and the warmth of a fine coun-
try inn. The prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World named it Hotel of
the Year in 1997. Antiques, graceful pillars, and floral arrangements fill the pub-
lic areas. The guest rooms, of varying size and layout, are individually decorated
in keeping with the Victorian period, with quality furnishings, rich fabrics, and
specially commissioned paintings of Dublin and wildlife scenes. Unlike some
converted 19th-century buildings, it has an elevator.
Eastmoreland Place, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. & 800/525-4800 in the U.S. or 01/668-7666. Fax 01/660-2655.
www.hibernianhotel.com. 41 units. €220 ($265); €250 ($301) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Free valet parking. Bus: 10.
Amenities: Restaurant (Irish/Continental); bar; access to nearby health club (extra fee); concierge; room serv-
ice; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking floor. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Anglesea Town House Everyone who stays at this 1903 Edwardian-style
B&B raves on and on about the same thing: the extraordinary breakfasts served
by Helen Kirrane. Start with freshly squeezed orange juice. Then perhaps have
a bit of homemade fruit compote or fresh yogurt and baked fruit. Next it’s
Helen’s wonderful homemade baked cereals or porridge (“homemade” is a big
thing with Helen), then tuck into your main meal: Perhaps bacon, eggs, and
sausages? Or how about a smoked salmon omelet? And naturally there’s always
a dessert (the profiteroles are divine) and gallons of brewed coffee. The place is
full of old-world comforts—rocking chairs, settees, a sun deck, and lots of flow-
ering plants—and guest rooms are pretty and very comfortable. But it’s the
breakfasts that you’ll remember long after you leave Dublin.
63 Anglesea Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. & 01/668-3877. Fax 01/668-3461. 7 units. €130 ($157) double.
Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. DART: Lansdowne Rd. Bus: 10, 46A, 46B, 63, or 84. Amenities:
Babysitting. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Butlers Town House Value This beautifully restored and expanded Victo-
rian town-house B&B feels like a gracious family home into which you are lucky
enough to be welcomed. The atmosphere is semiformal yet invitingly elegant,
class without the starched collar. Rooms are richly furnished with four-poster or
half-tester beds, using top-quality fabrics and an eye for blending rich colors. It’s
hard to elude comfort here—the sheets are of two-fold Egyptian cotton, the
shower’s water pressure is heavenly, and the staff is especially solicitous. The gem
here, in our opinion, is the Glendalough Room, with its lovely bay window and
small library; it requires early booking. The hotel offers free tea and coffee all
day. Breakfast, afternoon tea, and high tea are served in the atrium dining room.
44 Lansdowne Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 01/667-4022. Fax 01/667-3960.
www.butlers-hotel.com. 20 units. €150–€190 ($181–$229) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC,
V. Closed Dec 23–Jan 10. DART: Lansdowne Rd. Bus: 7, 7A, 8, or 45. Amenities: Breakfast room; room serv-
ice; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, hair dryer.
Waterloo House Waterloo House (actually not one but two Georgian
town houses) is one of the most popular B&Bs in Dublin. Perhaps it’s because
Evelyn Corcoran and her staff take such good care of you, in a friendly but unob-
trusive way. The place is charming in an old-world kind of way, with classical
Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Area Accommodations
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music wafting through the lobby, and the elegant, high-ceilinged drawing room
looking like a parlor out of an Agatha Christie novel. Guest rooms are comfort-
able and large (some have two double beds), but it’s hard to decide whether the
decor, featuring red-patterned carpet and box-pleated bedspreads, is a look that’s
reassuringly traditional or merely dated. The varied breakfast menu is a high
point. This is a nonsmoking house.
8–10 Waterloo Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. & 01/660-1888. Fax 01/667-1955. www.waterloohouse.ie. 17
units. €78–€175 ($94–$211) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free car parking. Closed Christmas
week. DART: Lansdowne Rd. Bus: 5, 7, or 8. Amenities: Breakfast room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair
dryer, garment press.
INEXPENSIVE
Bewley’s Hotel Value Kudos to Bewley’s for managing to keep its rates
stagnant for several years running. The hotel occupies what was once a 19th-
century brick Masonic school building adjacent to the RDS show grounds and
next to the British Embassy. A new wing harmonizes well with the old structure,
and is indistinguishable on the interior. Public lounges and reception areas are spa-
cious and appointed with mahogany wainscoting, marble paneling, and polished
bronze. Rooms, too, are spacious and well furnished—each has a writing desk, an
armchair, and either one king-size bed or a double and a twin bed. The studios
have a bedroom with a double bed, plus an additional room with a foldout couch,
a table (seats six), a pull-out kitchenette/bar hidden in a cabinet, and an addi-
tional bathroom (shower only). The basement restaurant (O’Connell’s) is run by
the Allen family of Ballymaloe fame, and offers very good food at reasonable
prices; there’s also an informal Bewley’s tearoom. The hotel is an excellent value
for families and groups; the big downside is its location outside the city center.
Merrion Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. & 01/668-1111. Fax 01/668-1999. www.bewleyshotels.com. 304 units.
€99 ($119) double. Rates includes service charge and taxes. AE, DC, MC, V. DART: Sandymount (5-min. walk).
Bus: 7, 7A, 7X, 8, or 45. Amenities: Restaurant (Irish/Continental); tearoom. In room: TV, dataport, kitch-
enette, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, garment press.
O’CONNELL STREET AREA/NORTH OF THE LIFFEY

While not generally as chic or salubrious as the South of the Liffey, the North-
side is going through a spurt of rejuvenation, most visible through the arrival of
The Morrison hotel (see below) several years ago. The big upside to staying here
is that, while it’s very central and within walking distance of all the major sights
and shops, hotel rates tend to be lower than they are just across the bridge.
VERY EXPENSIVE
The Morrison Just when it seemed that everything chic and hip hap-
pened south of the Liffey, the Hong Kong–born, Irish designer John Rocha
opened The Morrison and suddenly the central Northside doesn’t look so
shabby after all. This stunning, contemporary hotel is located a 5-minute walk
from O’Connell Street and directly across the river from Temple Bar. Rocha’s
design uses clean lines and quality, natural elements to evoke a very sensuous,
luxurious feeling of space and relaxation. Guest rooms are minimalist but don’t
feel cold the way minimalism can, undoubtedly because Rocha has used a
palette of neutral colors such as cream, chocolate, and black. Halo, the atrium-
style main restaurant, is one of the most talked-about, exciting eateries in town.
The upshot: The Morrison is every bit as stylish as The Clarence (Temple Bar)
and The Fitzwilliam (St. Stephen’s Green), with the sky-high rates to prove it.
Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1. & 01/887-2400. Fax 01/878-3185. www.morrisonhotel.ie. 93 units. €270–
€445 ($325–$536) double. AE, DC, MC, V. DART: Connolly. Bus: 70 or 80. Amenities: 2 restaurants (fusion,
W H E R E TO D I N E 115
Asian); 2 bars; concierge; room service; babysitting; dry cleaning; video/CD library. In room: A/C, dataport,
minibar, hair dryer, safe, CD player, voice mail.
M O D E R AT E
Jurys Inn Custom House Value Ensconced in the grandiose new finan-
cial-services district and facing the quays, this Jurys Inn follows the successful
formula of affordable comfort without frills. Single rooms have a double bed
and a pullout sofa, while double rooms offer both a double and a twin bed.
Twenty-two especially spacious rooms, if available, cost nothing extra. Rooms
facing the quays also enjoy vistas of the Dublin hills, but those facing the finan-
cial district are quieter. As occupancy runs at 100% from May to September and
at roughly 95% for the rest of the year, be sure to book well in advance.
Custom House Quay, Dublin 1. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 01/607-5000. Fax 01/829-0400. www.jurys.
com. 239 units. €108–€117 ($130–$141) double. Rates include service charge. Full Irish breakfast €9.50
($11). AE, DC, MC, V. Discounted parking available at adjacent lot. DART: Tara St. Bus: 27A, 27B, or 53A.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, dataport,
tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Royal Dublin Hotel Romantically floodlit at night, this five-story hotel is

near Parnell Square at the north end of Dublin’s main thoroughfare, within
walking distance of all the main theaters and Northside attractions. The con-
temporary sky-lit lobby lies adjacent to lounge areas that were part of the origi-
nal 1752 building. These Georgian-style rooms are elegant, with high molded
ceilings, ornate cornices, crystal chandeliers, gilt-edged mirrors, and open fire-
places. Guest rooms are contemporary, featuring light woods, bold, checked
bedspreads, and bay windows that extend over the busy street below.
40 Upper O’Connell St., Dublin 1. & 800/528-1234 in the U.S. or 01/873-3666. Fax 01/873-3120. www.
royaldublin.com. 120 units. €120–€185 ($145–$223) double. Rates include service charge, full Irish break-
fast, and VAT. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. DART: Connolly. Bus: 36A, 40A, 40B, 40C, or 51A. Amenities:
Restaurant (brasserie); lounge; bar; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry; foreign-currency exchange.
In room: TV, radio, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
4 Where to Dine
You’re here. You’re famished. Where do you go? A formal, old-world hotel din-
ing room? Perhaps a casual bistro or wine bar? Ethnic cuisine, maybe? Dublin
has the goods, across a wide range of price categories. Expect generally higher
prices than you’d pay for comparable fare in a comparable U.S. city. (Hey,
Dublin’s hip—you always pay for hip.) As befits a European capital, there’s
plenty of Continental cuisine, with a particular leaning toward French and Ital-
ian influences. But there’s also a lot of exciting fusion cooking going on here
these days, and chefs make excellent use of the wondrous Irish produce available
at their doorsteps.
HISTORIC OLD CITY/LIBERTIES AREA
M O D E R AT E
Lord Edward SEAFOOD Established in 1890 and situated in the heart of
the Old City opposite Christ Church Cathedral, this cozy upstairs dining room
claims to be Dublin’s oldest seafood restaurant. A dozen preparations of sole,
including au gratin and Veronique, are served; there are many variations of
prawns, from thermidor to Provençal; and fresh lobster is prepared au naturel or
in sauces. Fresh fish—from salmon and sea trout to plaice and turbot—is served
grilled, fried, meunière, or poached. Vegetarian dishes are also available. At
lunch, light snacks and simpler fare are served in the bar.
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23 Christ Church Place, Dublin 8. & 01/454-2420. Reservations required. Main courses €15–€24 ($18–$29);
fixed-price dinner €35 ($42). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 6–10:30pm. Closed Dec 24–Jan
3. Bus: 50, 54A, 56A, 65, 65A, 77, 77A, 123, or 150.
INEXPENSIVE
Govinda’s VEGETARIAN The motto here is healthy square meals on square
plates for very good prices. The meals are generous, belly-warming concoctions
of vegetables, cheese, rice, and pasta. Every day, 10 main courses are offered cafe-
teria-style. Some are always East Indian, and the others a variety of simple, Euro-
pean staples such as lasagna or macaroni and cheese. Veggie burgers are also
prepared to order. All are accompanied by a choice of two salads and can be
enjoyed unaccompanied by smoke—the restaurant is nonsmoking throughout.
Desserts are healthy and huge, like a rich wedge of carrot cake with a dollop of
cream or homemade ice cream.
4 Aungier St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-0309. Main courses €8.45 ($10); soup and freshly baked bread €3.10
($3.70). MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–9pm. Closed Dec 24–Jan 2. Bus: 16, 16A, 19, or 22.
Leo Burdock’s FISH AND CHIPS Every visitor should go to a Dublin

takeout “chipper” at least once, and you might as well do it at the best in town.
Established in 1913 across from Christchurch, this quintessential Irish takeout
shop remains a cherished Dublin institution, despite a devastating fire in 1998.
Rebuilt from the ground up, Burdock’s is back. Cabinet ministers, university
students, and businesspeople alike can be found in the queue. They’re waiting
for fish bought fresh that morning and those good Irish potatoes, both cooked
in “drippings” (none of that modern cooking oil!). There’s no seating, but you
can sit on a nearby bench or stroll down to the park at St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
2 Werburgh St., Dublin 8. & 01/454-0306. Main courses €6–€7 ($7.20–$8.45). No credit cards. Mon–Sat
noon–midnight; Sun 4pm–midnight. Bus: 21A, 50, 50A, 78, 78A, or 78B.
Queen of Tarts TEA SHOP This tiny tearoom is David to the Goliath
of Irish tearooms (Bewley’s, see below). It’s earned a reputation for the best
cheap, home-cooked meals in town. Start with a gourmet sandwich, Greek
salad, or savory tart of ham and spinach or cheddar cheese and chives. Then fol-
low it up with the flaky sweetness of warm almond cranberry or blackberry pie.
The scones here are tender and light, dusted with powdered sugar and accom-
panied by a little pot of fruit jam. The restaurant is small, smoke-free, and full
of delicious aromas.
4 Corkhill, Dublin 2. & 01/670-7499. Soup and fresh bread €3 ($3.60); sandwiches and savory tarts
€5–€8 ($6–$9.60); baked goods and cakes €1.25–€4 ($1.50–$4.80). No credit cards. Mon–Fri 7:30am–
7pm; Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Bus: Any city-center bus.
TEMPLE BAR/TRINITY COLLEGE AREA

VERY EXPENSIVE
Les Frères Jacques FRENCH/SEAFOOD The business crowd loves
this friendly, upmarket French restaurant, which brings a touch of haute cuisine
to the lower edge of the trendy Temple Bar district. The dining room evokes old
Paris, with its dark-green-and-cream backdrop. Start with something quintes-
sentially French, such as the duck confit or ballotine of foie gras served with
toasted brioche. The menu offers such entrees as Barbary duck with honey and
red-wine sauce and a thyme-infused noisette of Wicklow lamb with gratin
dauphinois. Chef Richard Reau is extremely talented with seafood and shellfish
dishes, such as pan-fried Dover sole with lemon and parsley butter and grilled
lobster flamed in Irish whiskey.
74 Dame St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-4555. www.lesfreresjacques.com. Reservations recommended. Main

courses average €33 ($40); fixed-price 4-course dinner €35 ($42). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:15–2:30pm
and 7:15–10:30pm; Sat 7–10:30pm. Closed Dec 24–Jan 4. Bus: 50, 50A, 54, 56, or 77.
The Tea Room INTERNATIONAL This ultrasmart restaurant,

ensconced in the very hip Clarence hotel, is virtually guaranteed to deliver one
of your most memorable meals in Ireland. This gorgeous dining room’s soaring
yet understated lines are the perfect backdrop for Antony Ely’s complex but con-
trolled cooking. A classic such as beef filet with red-wine jus is downright zingy
when served with arugula on a Dijon-infused potato-and-onion mash. Likewise,
the saucisson of salmon becomes up-to-date and elegant astride teeny risoni pasta
and chive dressing. Desserts, such as the caramelized peach with rice pudding
pie, are heaven-sent. Bono and the Edge, of U2, are part-owners of the hotel, so
the celebrity-spotting quotient is always potentially high.
In The Clarence, 6–8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. & 01/670-9000. Reservations required. Fixed-price 1-course
dinner €31 ($37), 2-course dinner €41 ($49), 3-course dinner €53 ($64). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:30–2pm;
Mon–Sun 6:30–9:45pm. Bus: 51B, 51C, 68, 69, or 79.
EXPENSIVE
Eden INTERNATIONAL/MEDITERRANEAN This is one of Temple
Bar’s hippest eateries, a cool minimalist dining room with an open-plan kitchen
and a vista overlooking Meeting House Square. Eleanor Walsh and Michael
Dirkin are two of Ireland’s most exciting young chefs, and here they offers a deli-
cious menu of well-thought-out food at reasonable prices. The food is influ-
enced by the global village, but there’s a special penchant for Mediterranean
flavors—the fresh hake comes served with black olives, sun-dried tomatoes,
arugula (called rocket in Ireland), and pesto. On a cold day, opt for an updated
Irish favorite such as a paper-thin smoked loin of pork (called kassler here) laid
over an apple mash with port-infused gravy. Desserts are worth saving room for.
The fixed-price lunch is a particularly good value.
Meeting House Sq. (entrance on Sycamore St.), Dublin 2. & 01/670-5372. Main courses €18–€28
($22–$34); fixed-price lunch menu €19 ($23). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 6–10:30pm. Bus: 51B,
51C, 68, 69, or 79.
Jacob’s Ladder Value MODERN IRISH When a talented, confident

chef knows what to do with the exceptional quality of Irish produce, the results
can be superb. Inspired cooking by chef-owner Adrian Roche and a stylish dining
room with great views over Trinity College make this one of the most consistently
packed places in town. Roche’s forte is taking old Irish stalwarts and updating
them into sublime signature dishes. His Dublin Coddle is a soupy seafood stew
of onions, potatoes, mussels, clams, Dublin bay prawns, salmon, carrots, and
turnips. He serves his excellent braised wood pigeon with colcannon—an old
Irish favorite of potatoes and cabbage mashed together with plenty of butter—
that is fluffier and more refined here than perhaps anywhere else on the island.
Service is terrific and you get great value for your money, especially as this is one
of the few upscale restaurants that hasn’t upped its prices in the past year.
4–5 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-3865. www.jacobsladder.ie. Reservations required. Main courses €20–
€30 ($24–$36); fixed-price dinner €37 ($45). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 12:30–2:30pm; Tues–Fri 6–10pm; Sat
7–10pm. Closed Dec 24–Jan 4. DART: Pearse. Bus: 7, 8, 10, 11, or 46A.
Mermaid Café MODERN The Mermaid Café—known to locals as

simply the Mermaid—has attained cult status in Dublin. Like a certain mild-
mannered reporter for the Daily Planet, this could be something very ordinary.
But it’s not. Ben Gorman, who started the Mermaid back in 1996, now spends
less time behind the stove. Not to worry: Chef Temple Garner’s cooking is
downright terrific in its own right—think classic cooking with a fresh, eclectic
twist. As a starter, the orange, feta, and watercress salad with beetroot and mild
chile dressing offers a good launch without threatening your appetite, though
the Mermaid antipasti (especially when combined with the dangerously appeal-
ing assortment of freshly baked breads) may leave you with the will but not the
way for the generous entrees soon to emerge from the kitchen. The New Eng-
land crab cakes, grilled swordfish with mango relish, roast duck breast on cur-
ried noodles, and chargrilled monkfish are all flawlessly prepared and quite
memorable. On top of all that, the wine list is one of the best in Ireland and the
desserts—especially the pecan pie—are divine.
70 Dame St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-8236. www.mermaid.ie. Reservations required. Dinner main courses
€19–€30 ($23–$36); Sun brunch €9–€15 ($11–$18). MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm and 6–11pm; Sun
12:30–3:30pm (brunch) and 6–9pm. Bus: 50, 50A, 54, 56A, 77, 77A, or 77B.
M O D E R AT E
Elephant & Castle AMERICAN You’d be forgiven for thinking you
could find this kind of food—burgers, chicken wings, omelets—at any old Yan-
kee-style joint, but give it a chance and you won’t be disappointed. The chicken
wings are scrumptious, the burgers out of this world, the omelets “spot on,” as
the Irish would say. It’s a buzzing, immensely popular place for breakfast,
brunch, lunch, afternoon nibble, dinner, or late dinner.
18 Temple Bar, Dublin 2. & 01/679-3121. Main courses €8–€22 ($9.20–$25). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 8am–
11:30pm; Sat–Sun 10:30am–11:30pm. Bus: 51B, 51C, 68, 69, or 79.
Juice VEGETARIAN Uh-oh. The V word. Don’t worry, this place isn’t about
suffering for a higher principle. Truth is, if nobody told you that Juice was a veg-
etarian restaurant, you’d probably never notice. The menu is so interesting and
the food so downright fabulous, just think of it as a bonus that everything on
the menu is organic, healthy, and fresh. And what a hip room. Lofty, 30-foot
ceilings softened by a suspended sailcloth and muted lighting. One entire wall
is painted claret, with a net of tiny, white fairy lights twinkling in the distance.
Along with pancakes, huevos rancheros, and French toast, topped with both
fresh fruit and organic maple syrup, the menu takes you around the world. Sam-
ple the homemade dips—hummus, baba ghanouj, tapenade, roasted carrot pâté,
smoked pimento pâté—served tapas-style with crudités and warm pita-bread
strips. True to its name, there are about 30 kinds of juices and smoothies on
offer. Desserts are good, too. After all, V is for value, too.
Castle House, 73 S. Great Georges St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-7856. Reservations recommended Fri–Sat. Main
courses €7–€10 ($8.45–$12); early-bird fixed-price dinner €14 ($17) (Mon–Fri 5–7pm). AE, MC, V. Daily
11am–11pm. Bus: 50, 50A, 54, 56, or 77.
Yamamori Noodles JAPANESE If you’re still skeptical about Japanese

cuisine, Yamamori will make you an instant believer. In a pop, casual, and exu-
berant atmosphere, you may just be startled by how good the food is here. The
splendid menu is a who’s who of Japanese cuisine, and the prices range from
budget to splurge. Regardless of the bottom line, however, everyone goes away
feeling full and feted. On a raw, drizzly Dublin day, the chile chicken ramen is
a pot of bliss, while the yamamori yaki soba offers, in a mound of wok-fried
noodles, a well-rewarded treasure hunt for prawns, squid, chicken, and roast
pork. Vegetarians aren’t overlooked and the selective international wine list is
well priced and well chosen. The lunch specials are outstanding. Even at 9:30pm
on a Monday night, this place is jammed, not by tourists but by local Dubs,
which tells you how good the food is.
71–72 S. Great George’s St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-5001. Reservations only for parties of 4 or more persons.
Main courses €11–€18 ($13–$22). MC, V. Sun–Wed 12:30–11pm; Thurs–Sat 12:30–11:30pm. Bus: 50, 50A,
54, 56, or 77.
INEXPENSIVE
Café Gertrude Here’s an easygoing little oasis of calm amid boisterous
Temple Bar. The interior is hip in an artsy kind of way—buttercup yellow walls,
lilac trim on the doorjambs and window frames, simple pine floorboards, a folk
guitar playing on the stereo, and a few pieces of modern art hung on the other-
wise plain walls. The same menu runs all day—all simple stuff, executed with
care: toasted bagel with fresh smoked salmon, cream cheese, and onion; potato
cake grilled with herb and onion, topped with bacon, smoked cheese, and salsa;
panini of chicken breast, roasted sweet peppers, and mozzarella on focaccia,
grilled until it’s a gloppy treat.
3–4 Bedford Row, Dublin 2. & 01/677-9043. Main courses from €5 ($6). 2-course early-bird dinner €13
($16). MC, V. Daily 9am–5pm. Bus: 21A, 78A, or 78B.
Irish Film Centre Cafe Bar IRISH/INTERNATIONAL One of the most

popular drinking spots in Temple Bar, the hip Cafe Bar (in the lobby of the city’s
coolest place to grab a movie) features an excellent, affordable menu that
changes daily. A vegetarian and Middle Eastern menu is available for both lunch
and dinner. The weekend entertainment usually includes music or comedy.
6 Eustace St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2. & 01/677-8788. Lunch and dinner €6–€10 ($7.20–$12). MC, V.
Mon–Fri 12:30–3pm; Sat–Sun 1–3pm; daily 6–9pm. Bus: 21A, 78A, or 78B.
ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN/GRAFTON STREET AREA

VERY EXPENSIVE
One Pico MODERN EUROPEAN About a 5-minute walk from
Stephen’s Green, on a wee lane off Dawson Street, is the restaurant (still in its
infancy) that is launching an empire. Since opening One Pico, chef-owner
Eamonn O’Reilly has opened two other popular Dublin bistros, but this one
remains the most focused and best. (Let’s hope his peripheral ventures don’t dis-
tract him from the stove too often.) This is a sophisticated, grown-up, classy
place, with excellent service and fantastic food. Favorite dishes include a starter
of seared foie gras with pineapple tatin; memorable main dishes include scallops
with baby beetroot and lime, confit of duck with fig tatin, and beef with Roque-
fort ravioli. For dessert, a caramelized lemon tart is the end to a near-perfect meal.
5–6 Moleworth Place, Schoolhouse Lane, Dublin 2. & 01/676-0300. www.onepico.com. Reservations
required. Fixed-price 2-course lunch €25 ($30), 3-course lunch €30 ($36); dinner main courses €20–€30
($24–$36). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm and 6–11pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
EXPENSIVE
Cooke’s Café MODERN CLASSIC Named for owner and chef Johnny
Cooke, this shop-front restaurant is a longtime Dublin favorite. The food is all
about classic dishes executed with just the right amount of originality. Specialties
include a fabulous black-bean soup; grilled duck with pancetta, Marsala balsamic
sauce, and wilted endive; sautéed brill and Dover sole with capers and croutons;
and baked grouper with a ragout of mussels, clams, artichokes, and tomatoes.
The open kitchen and Mediterranean murals dominate the cafe, and on week-
end evenings they open the upstairs Rhino Room, where there’s a terrific New
York–grill atmosphere. In fine weather you can sit outside on the terrace.
14 S. William St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-0536. Reservations required. Fixed-price lunch menu €20 ($24); early-
bird menu (6–7pm) €20 ($24); dinner main courses €14–€26 ($17–$31). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm;
Mon–Sat 6–11pm; Sun 6–10pm. DART: Tara St. Bus: 16A, 19A, 22A, 55, or 83.
E X P E N S I V E / M O D E R AT E
Aya @ Brown Thomas JAPANESE This buzzy, fashionable annex to
Dublin’s poshest department store (actually, it’s just across the street on Claren-
don St.) is very much a good-time destination for chic Dubliners, with its
conveyor-belt sushi bar. The good news is that, beyond the trendiness, the food
here is damn good. Lunch offers all the classics—tempura, gyoza, toritatsuta,
and, of course, plenty of sushi—while the dinner menu expands to include yak-
itori, steaks, and noodle salads. Come for dinner Sunday through Tuesday for
the Sushi55 special: all you can eat, including one complimentary drink, for
€24 ($29).
49–52 Clarendon St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-1544. Reservations recommended for dinner. Lunch averages
€15 ($18); dinner averages €25 ($30). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10:30am–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. DART: Tara
St. Bus: 16A, 19A, 22A, 55, or 83.
La Mère Zou FRENCH Imagine a country house in Provence where you

could get superb Gallic cooking en famille. Chef Eric Tydgadt has created a
warm, comfortable basement-level bistro in which to savor his fresh French
country specialties. The emphasis is on perfectly cooked food accompanied by
persuasive but “unarmed” sauces served in an unpretentious manner. Mussels are
a house specialty, with an array of poultry, seafood, lamb, and game offerings.
The quality of ingredients and attention to enhancing the flavor of all dishes is
consistent from appetizers to dessert. The excellent wine list favors the French,
and includes several €14 ($17) house wines.
22 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. & 01/661-6669. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price lunch €20
($24); early-bird dinner menu €24 ($29); dinner main courses €20–€28 ($24–$34). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri
12:30–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 6–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm; Sun 6–9:30pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13,
or 20B.
M O D E R AT E
Café Mao ASIAN Dubliners have beaten a path to this place since it
opened a few years back, and it’s already become something of an icon. This is
where to go when you feel like Asian cooking laced with a fun and exhilarating
attitude. An exposed kitchen lines an entire wall, and the rest of the space is wide
open—fantastic for people-watching on weekends. The menu reads like a “best
of Asia”: Thai fish cakes, nasi goreng, chicken hoi sin, salmon ramen. Everything
is well prepared and delicious, so you can’t go wrong.
2 Chatham Row, Dublin 2. & 01/670-4899. Reservations recommended. Main courses €13–€18 ($16–$22).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed noon–10:30pm; Thurs–Sat noon–11:30pm; Sun 1–10pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A,
11B, 13, or 20B.
Fitzers Café INTERNATIONAL This is one branch of a chain of win-

ning cafes that serve up excellent, up-to-date, and reasonably priced food.
Nestled on a street known for its bookshops, this bright, airy Irish-style bistro
has a multiwindowed facade and modern decor. Choices range from chicken
breast with hot chile cream sauce or brochette of lamb tandoori with mild curry
sauce to gratin of smoked cod. There are also tempting vegetarian dishes made
from organic produce. Fitzers has two other Dublin locations: just a few blocks
away at the National Gallery, Merrion Square West (& 01/661-4496), and at
Temple Bar Square (& 01/679-0440). As with all chains, consistency is the
operative word—the same menu, the same decor theme, and the same good
service at each location.
51 Dawson St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-1155. Dinner main courses €17–€25 ($21–$30). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11:30am–10:30pm. Closed Dec 24–27 and Good Friday. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
INEXPENSIVE
Bewley’s Café Overrated TRADITIONAL CAFE/TEAROOM Bewley’s, a
three-story landmark on Grafton Street, has been around forever (more specifi-
cally, since 1840) and is so ingrained in the Irish identity that you have to won-
der whether people go out of habit rather than desire. Not that the place isn’t
busy. It’s always bustling with the clink of teapots and hum of customers, but
the atmosphere is somehow listless rather than buzzy. The interior is a tradi-
tional, mellow mix of dark wood, amber glass, and deep red velvet banquettes—
a look that would be deemed welcoming if the food was great. Unfortunately,
the scones, pies, and cakes are surprisingly mediocre, and the sandwiches, pasta
dishes, sausages, chips, and casseroles are no better.
Go once, because Bewley’s is a quintessential hit of real Dublin, and the people-
watching is good. But go only once, and stick to coffee and tea.
78–79 Grafton St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-4085. Homemade soup €3 ($3.60); lunch main courses €4–€9
($4.80–$11); lunch specials from €6.50 ($8.10); dinner main courses from €15 ($18). AE, DC, MC, V.
Mon–Sat 7:30am–7pm; Sun 8:30am–6pm (continuous service for breakfast, hot food, and snacks). Bus: Any
city-center bus.
Cafe Bell Value IRISH/SELF-SERVICE In the cobbled courtyard of early-

19th-century St. Teresa’s Church, this serene little place is one of a handful of
dining options springing up in historic or ecclesiastical surroundings. With high
ceilings and an old-world decor, Cafe Bell is a welcome contrast to the bustle of
Grafton Street a block away. The menu changes daily but usually includes very
good homemade soups, sandwiches, salads, quiches, lasagna, sausage rolls, hot
scones, and other baked goods.
St. Teresa’s Courtyard, Clarendon St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7645. All items €4–€8 ($4.80–$9.60). No credit
cards. Mon–Sat 9am–5:30pm. Bus: 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 22A, 55, or 83.
Caifé Trí-D Value SANDWICHES This unpretentious little eatery just

steps from the wrought-iron rails of the Trinity College campus is a great find
on a street known for its bookstores. This is a heart-on-its-sleeve Irish-language
hangout with a bilingual menu half-written as gaeilge (in Irish Gaelic). Ceapairí
and fillteáin (sandwiches and wraps) tempt with simple but interesting ingredi-
ents, like the winning combination of sharp Dubliner cheese, tomato relish, let-
tuce, and tomato. Try brie and cranberry sauce on toasted brown bread, and
you’ll be plotting a recreation in your own kitchen. The homemade soup of the
day—maybe mushroom and spinach or carrot and coriander—comes with a
chunky slab of homemade soda bread and butter.
3 Dawson St., Dublin 2. & 01/474-1054. Soups, sandwiches, and wraps under €5 ($6). No credit cards.
Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. Bus: Any city-center bus.
Cornucopia Wholefood Restaurant Value ORGANIC/VEGETARIAN

This little cafe just off Grafton Street is one of the best vegetarian restaurants in
the city, and also serves wholesome meals for people on various restricted diets
(vegan, nondairy, low sodium, low fat). Soups are particularly good here, as is
the baked lasagna made with eggplant. Predictably, the clientele is made up
mainly of Birkenstock-wearing, backpack-toting 20-somethings.
19 Wicklow St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7583. Main courses €4–€10 ($4.80–$12). MC, V. Mon–Thurs
8am–7pm; Fri–Sat 8am–10pm. Bus: Any city-center bus.
Tips Picnic, Anyone?
The parks of Dublin offer plenty of sylvan settings for a picnic lunch;
so feel free to park it on a bench, or pick a grassy patch and spread a
blanket. In particular, try St. Stephen’s Green at lunchtime (in the
summer there are open-air band concerts), the Phoenix Park, and Mer-
rion Square. You can also take a ride on the DART to the suburbs of
Dun Laoghaire, Dalkey, Killiney, and Bray (to the south) or Howth (to
the north) and picnic along a bayfront pier or promenade.
In recent years, some fine delicatessens and gourmet food shops—
ideal for picnic fare—have sprung up. For the best selection of fixings,
try any of the following. Gruel, 69 Dame St., Dublin 2 (& 01/670-7119),
has a cult following for its hot roasted gourmet sandwiches that
change daily. Garlic Kitchen, 49 Francis St., Dublin 8 (& 01/454-4912),
has gourmet prepared food to go, from salmon en croûte to pastries
filled with meats or vegetables, pâtés, quiches, sausage rolls, and
homemade pies, breads, and cakes. Magills Delicatessen, 14 Clarendon
St., Dublin 2 (& 01/671-3830), offers Asian and Continental delicacies,
meats, cheeses, spices, and salads. For a fine selection of Irish cheeses,
luncheon meat, and other delicacies, seek out Sheridan’s Cheesemon-
gers, 11 S. Anne St., Dublin 2 (& 01/679-3143), perhaps the best of
Dublin’s cheese emporiums, or the Big Cheese Company, St. Andrews
Lane, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1399).
Mimo Cafe Value MODERN CONTINENTAL Take a shopping break

at this chic little cafe in the tony Powerscourt Townhouse minimall. It’s a won-
derfully classy and surprisingly budget-minded place to stop for terrific salads,
pasta dishes, and inventive sandwiches. Plop down in one of the leather sofas or
armchairs, and order the tasty salad of marinated flat mushrooms, piled high
atop a bed of crisp green beans and Parmesan shavings with lemon-and-thyme
dressing, and served with toasted ciabatta (bread). Or go for the warm goat’s
cheese crostini with caramelized figs, wild honey, and beetroot dressing. Every-
thing is yummy and nicely presented. A piano player is a civilized touch on
Thursday and Friday afternoons.
Powerscourt Townhouse, Dublin 2. & 01/674-6712. Main courses €8–€10 ($9.60–$12). MC, V. Daily
noon–5:30pm. Bus: Any city-center bus.
FITZWILLIAM SQUARE/MERRION SQUARE AREA

VERY EXPENSIVE
L’Ecrivain FRENCH This is one of Dublin’s truly exceptional restau-
rants, from start to finish. The atmosphere is relaxed, welcoming, and unpre-
tentious, and chef Derry Clarke’s food is extraordinary. You can dine on the
garden terrace, weather permitting, or in the chic dining rooms. Each course
seems to receive the same devoted attention, and most consist of traditional
“best of Irish” ingredients, prepared without dense sauces. The pan-flared wild
sea bass with mango and red-pepper dressing and the entrecôte with caramelized
onion are perfectly prepared and elegantly presented. Clarke’s roast Barbary
duck, served with honey and thyme navet and smoked bacon-infused mashed
potatoes, is legendary. Of the out-of-this-world desserts, the crème brûlée here
may be the best outside of France. The two-course lunch menu presents a
particularly good opportunity to enjoy fabulous food without breaking your
budget.
109 Lower Baggot St., Dublin 2. & 01/661-1919. www.lecrivain.com. Reservations required. Fixed-price 2-
course lunch €30 ($36), 3-course lunch €40 ($48); fixed-price 4-course dinner €65 ($78); dinner main
courses €37–€42 ($45–$51). 10% service charge. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:30–2pm; Mon–Sat 7–10:30pm.
Bus: 10.
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud FRENCH Ireland’s most award-win-

ning restaurant (including two Michelin stars) is ensconced in elegant quarters
at the Merrion Hotel. The menu features such dishes as roasted West Cork tur-
bot, honey-roasted quail, wild sea bass with ragout of mussels, and pan-fried foie
gras with marinated red cabbage in a raspberry vinaigrette. If you’re undecided,
order the scrumptious ravioli of lobster with coconut cream, and finish with the
assiette gourmande au chocolat (five small hot and cold chocolate desserts).
In the Merrion Hotel, 21 Upper Merrion St., Dublin 2. & 01/676-4192. Reservations required. Fixed-price 2-
course lunch €30 ($36); fixed-price 3-course lunch €45 ($54); fixed-price dinner €110 ($133). Dinner main
courses €35–€50 ($42–$60). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 12:30–2:15pm and 7–10:15pm. DART: Westland Row.
Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
EXPENSIVE
Dobbins Wine Bistro BISTRO This is a foodie’s all-time favorite haunt.
Almost hidden in a lane between Upper and Lower Mount Streets, this hip,
friendly bistro is a haven for inventive Continental cuisine. The menu changes
often, but usually includes such items as duckling with orange and port sauce;
steamed paupiette of black sole with salmon, crab, and prawn filling; pan-fried
veal kidneys in pastry; and filet of beef topped with crispy herb bread crumbs
with shallot and Madeira sauce. You’ll have a choice of sitting in the bistro, with
checkered tablecloths and sawdust on the floor, or on the atrium patio.
15 Stephen’s Lane (off Upper Mount St.), Dublin 2. & 01/676-4679. Reservations recommended. Dinner
main courses €14–€23 ($17–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:30–2:30pm; Tues–Sat 7:30–10:30pm. DART:
Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 46, or 84.
Ely ORGANIC BISTRO This is one of our favorite new entries this year:
A cosmopolitan, clever place that does everything right. Erik Robson is origi-
nally from County Clare, and sources all its organic produce from his family
farm there. The food is simple but expertly prepared, the crowd enthusiastic, the
service attentive. Think fantastic “bangers and mash” (sausages and mashed
spuds), delicious Clare oysters, superb Irish stew, and a great selection of cheeses
from Sheridan’s. Factor in a smashing wine list and you’ve got a winner.
22 Ely Place (off Merrion Row), Dublin 2. & 01/676-8986. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
€14–€23 ($17–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–10:30pm. Bus: 7, 7A, 8, 10, 11, or 13.
INEXPENSIVE
National Museum Café CAFETERIA This is a great place to step out of
the rain, warm yourself, and then wander among the nation’s treasures. The cafe
is informal but has a certain elegance, thanks to an elaborate mosaic floor, enam-
eled fireplace, marble tabletops, chandelier, and tall windows that look across a
cobbled yard toward the National Library. Everything is made fresh: beef salad,
chicken salad, quiche, an abundance of pastries. The soup of the day is often
vegetarian, and quite good. Admission to the museum is free, so you can visit at
your own pace, as often as your curiosity (or appetite) demands.
National Museum of Ireland, Kildare St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7444. Soup €3 ($3.60); lunch main courses
under €8 ($9.60). MC, V. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. Bus: 7, 7A, 8, 10, 11, or 13.
BALLSBRIDGE/EMBASSY ROW AREA

EXPENSIVE
Roly’s Bistro IRISH/INTERNATIONAL Opened in 1992, this two-
story shop-front restaurant quickly became an institution. The recent departure
of Roly Saul, who pioneered the venture, spurred former head chef Colin
O’Daly to step up as owner. Even with the changes, the Roly’s magic is still pal-
pable. The head chef, Paul Cartwright, cooks the same kind of excellent,
tummy-warming food you never get tired of: confit of duck with garlic mash,
roasted venison, chicken-and-bean sprout spring roll, pan-fried Dublin Bay
prawns, game pie with chestnuts, wild-mushroom risotto. The main dining
room, with a bright and airy decor and lots of windows, can be noisy when the
house is full, but the nonsmoking section has a quiet enclave of booths laid out
in an Orient Express style for those who prefer a quiet tête-à-tête. There’s also
an excellent array of international wines offered.
7 Ballsbridge Terrace, Dublin 4. & 01/668-2611. Reservations required. Main courses €20–€27 ($24–$33).
Set-price lunch €19 ($23). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 6–10pm. DART to Lansdowne Rd. Station. Bus:
5, 6, 7, 8, 18, or 45.
M O D E R AT E
The French Paradox Value WINE BAR Just what tony Dublin 4
needed: A price-conscious, darling little bistro-cum–bar de vin that’s endeared
itself to everyone in the city. The wine’s the thing here, so relax with a bottle of
bordeaux or Côte du Rhone and whatever nibbles you like from the menu.
There’s a lovely cheese plate named for West Cork cheese maker Bill Hogan,
superb Iberico hams from Spain, or, if you’re more hungry, the delicious bistro
stalwart of confit of duck with vegetables. Simply delicious.
53 Shelbourne Rd., Dublin 4. & 01/660-4068. www.thefrenchparadox.com. Reservations recommended. All
items €10–€20 ($12–$24). Main dishes come with glass of wine. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 2
evening sittings at 6 and 9pm. DART: Lansdowne Rd. Bus: 5, 6, 7, 8, 18, or 45.
O’CONNELL STREET AREA/NORTH OF THE LIFFEY

EXPENSIVE
Halo FRENCH/FUSION This is easily one of the hippest, hottest,
coolest, most stylish places to eat in Dublin—so book your table before you
leave home. In the early days, this place attracted a clientele that was snobbish
and self-conscious, but thankfully the posers have disappeared. Now the room
is buzzy and stylish without any pretentiousness––the perfect backdrop for chef
Jean-Michel Poulot’s fabulous cooking. The food is all about French fusion—
snazzy, mind-blowing combinations of taste and texture that manage to be ele-
gant instead of just far-flung. Consider the curried king scallops with lime
potato, fennel, mizuna, and ginger vinaigrette. Or the baked goat’s cheese
wrapped in Parma ham with mizuna salad. Eating at Halo is an intense experi-
ence for all of your senses, and one that should be savored.
Morrison Hotel, Ormond Quay, Dublin 1. & 01/878-2999. Reservations required. Dinner main courses
€32–€45 ($39–$54). AE, MC, V. Daily 7–10:30pm; Sat–Sun noon–3:30pm. DART: Connolly. Bus: 70 or 80.
M O D E R AT E
101 Talbot INTERNATIONAL This modest, friendly, second-floor
eatery over a camping shop is a bright beacon of great cooking in a neighbor-
hood that’s otherwise culinarily challenged. The menu features light, healthy
foods, with a strong emphasis on vegetarian dishes. Main dishes include seared
filet of tuna with mango cardamom salsa, roast duck breast with plum-and-
ginger sauce, Halloumi cheese and mushroom brochette served with couscous
Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Area Dining
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and raita, and a blue cheese and pistachio cream sauce on pasta. The dinner
menu changes weekly. The dining room is bright and casually funky, with con-
temporary Irish art on display, big windows, yellow rag-rolled walls, ash-topped
tables, and newspapers to read. Espresso and cappuccino are always available,
and there is a full bar. The restaurant is convenient to the Abbey Theatre.
101 Talbot St. (at Talbot Lane near Marlborough St.), Dublin 1. & 01/874-5011. Reservations recommended.
Early-bird dinner €21 ($25); dinner main courses €14–€19 ($17–$23). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–11pm. DART:
Connolly. Bus: 27A, 31A, 31B, 32A, 32B, 42B, 42C, 43, or 44A.
INEXPENSIVE
Beshoffs FISH AND CHIPS The Beshoff name is synonymous with fresh
fish in Dublin. Ivan Beshoff emigrated here from Odessa, Russia, in 1913 and
started a fish business that developed into this top-notch fish-and-chips eatery.
Recently renovated in Victorian style, it has an informal atmosphere and a sim-
ple self-service menu. Crisp chips are served with a choice of fresh fish, from the
original recipe of cod to classier variations using salmon, shark, prawns, and other
local sea fare—some days as many as 20 varieties. The potatoes are grown on a
120-hectare (300-acre) farm in Tipperary and freshly cut each day. A second shop
is just south of the Liffey at 14 Westmoreland St., Dublin 2 (& 01/677-8026).
6 Upper O’Connell St., Dublin 1. & 01/872-4400. All items €3–€7 ($3.60–$8.45). No credit cards. Mon–Sat
10am–9pm; Sun noon–9pm. DART: Tara St. Bus: Any city-center bus.
Epicurean Food Hall GOURMET FOOD COURT This wonderful

food hall houses a wide variety of artisan produce, delicious local Irish delicacies,
and regional specialties. Favorites include: Caviston’s, Dublin’s premier deli, for
smoked salmon and seafood; Itsabagel, for its delicious bagels, imported from
H&H Bagels in New York City; Crème de la Crème, for its French-style pastries
and cakes; Missy and Mandy’s, for its American-style ice cream; Nectar, for its
plethora of healthy juice drinks; and Aroma Bistro for Italian paninis. There is
limited seating but this place gets uncomfortably jammed during lunchtime
midweek, so go midmorning or afternoon.
Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1. No phone. All items €2–€12 ($2.40–$14). No credit cards. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm.
Bus: 70 or 80.
Soup Dragon SOUPS Soup has become the healthy, hip alternative to
stodgy sandwiches and fast food, and the Soup Dragon leads the way for cheap
and cheerful chow-downs in Dublin. It’s a tiny place, with less than a dozen stools
alongside a bar, but big on drama. Think blue walls, black and red mirrors,
orange slices and spice sticks flowing out of giant jugs, and huge flower-filled
vases. The menu changes daily but usually features a few traditional choices
(potato and leek, carrot and coriander) as well as the more exotic (curried parsnip
and sag aloo, a spicy Indian spinach-and-potato concoction). It’s also a good place
for dessert. Try the bread-and-butter pudding or the yummy banana bread.
168 Capel St., Dublin 1. & 01/872-3277. All items €3–€8 ($3.60–$9.60). MC, V. Mon–Sat 8am–5:30pm;
Sun 1–6pm. Bus: 70 or 80.
The Winding Stair HEALTH Retreat from the bustle of the north side’s
busy quays into this darling bookshop’s self-service cafe, and indulge in a snack
while browsing for secondhand gems. There are three floors—one smoke-free,
and each chock-full of used books (from novels, plays, and poetry to history,
art, music, and sports) connected by a winding 18th-century staircase. (There’s
also an elevator available.) Tall, wide windows provide expansive views of the
SEEING THE SIGHTS 129
Ha’penny Bridge and River Liffey. The food is simple and healthy—sandwiches
made with additive-free meats or fruits (such as banana and honey), organic sal-
ads, homemade soups, and natural juices. Evening events include poetry read-
ings and recitals.
40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1. & 01/873-3292. All items €2–€8 ($2.40–$9.60). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat
9:30am–6pm; Sun 1–6pm. Bus: 70 or 80.
5 Seeing the Sights

Dublin is a city of many moods and landscapes. There are medieval churches
and imposing castles, graceful Georgian squares and lantern-lit lanes, broad
boulevards and crowded bridges, picturesque parks and pedestrian walkways,
intriguing museums and markets, gardens and galleries, and—if you have any
energy left after all that—electric nightlife. Enjoy!
THE TOP ATTRACTIONS
Áras an Uachtaráin (The Irish White House) Áras an Uachtaráin (Irish
for “House of the President”) was once the Viceregal Lodge, the summer retreat of
the British viceroy, whose ordinary digs were in Dublin Castle. From what were
never humble beginnings, the original 1751 country house was expanded sev-
eral times, gradually accumulating splendor. President Mary McAleese recently
opened her home to visitors; guided tours originate at the Phoenix Park Visitors
Centre every Saturday. After an introductory historical film, a bus brings visitors
to and from Áras an Uachtaráin. The focus of the tour is the state reception
rooms. The entire tour lasts 1 hour. Only 525 tickets are given out, first-come,
first-served; arrive before 1:30pm, especially in summer.
Note: For security reasons, no backpacks, travel bags, strollers, buggies, cam-
eras, or mobile phones are allowed on the tour. No smoking, eating, or drink-
ing are permitted, and no visitor toilets are available once the tour begins.
In Phoenix Park, Dublin 7. & 01/670-9155. Free admission. Sat 10:30am–4:30pm. Closed Dec 24–26. Same-
day tickets issued at Phoenix Park (see below). Bus: 10, 37, or 39.
The Book of Kells The jewel in Ireland’s tourism crown is the Book
of Kells, a magnificent manuscript of the four Gospels, from around A.D. 800,
with elaborate scripting and illumination. This famous treasure and other
early Christian manuscripts are on permanent public view at Trinity College,
in the Colonnades, an exhibition area on the ground floor of the Old Library.
Also housed in the Old Library is the Dublin Experience (see separate listing
under “More Attractions,” later in this chapter), an excellent multimedia intro-
duction to the history and people of Dublin. The oldest university in Ireland,
Trinity was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I. It occupies a beautiful
16-hectare (40-acre) site just south of the River Liffey, with cobbled squares, gar-
dens, a picturesque quadrangle, and buildings dating from the 17th to the 20th
centuries.
College Green, Dublin 2. & 01/608-2320. http://www.tcd.ie/Library/Visitors/kells.htm. Free admission to
college grounds. €7.20 ($9) adults, €6.50 ($7.85) seniors/students, €11 ($13) families, free for children
under 12. Combination tickets for the Library and Dublin Experience also available. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm;
Sun noon–4:30pm (opens at 9:30am June–Sept).
Christ Church Cathedral Standing on high ground in the oldest part of

the city, this cathedral is one of Dublin’s finest historic buildings. It dates from
1038, when Sitric, Danish king of Dublin, built the first wooden Christ Church
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Bank of Ireland/ Parliament House 34 Dublin Castle 29 Glasnevin Cemetery 11
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Boulevard Gallery 48 Dublin Experience 37 Heraldic Museum/
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Gallery of Oriental Art 30 Dublin Zoo 2 Hey! Doodle Doodle 20
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Irish Museum of Modern Art 3 National Photographic Archive 27 St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral 17
James Joyce Centre 14 Natural History Museum 47 St. Michan’s Church 9
Kilmainham Gaol Newman House 40 St. Patrick’s Cathedral 23
Historical Museum 5 Number Twenty Nine 50 St. Teresa’s Church 35
Leinster House 44 Old Jameson Distillery Shaw Birthplace 41
Mansion House 39 and The Chimney 8 Temple Bar Gallery
Marsh’s Library 24 Our Lady of Mount Carmel/ and Studios 33
National Gallery 43 Whitefriar Street War Memorial Gardens 4
National Library of Ireland 45 Carmelite Church 31 Waterways Visitor Centre 49
131
The Book of Kells

The Book of Kells is a large-format illuminated manuscript of the four
Gospels in Latin, dated on comparative grounds to about A.D. 800. It’s
impossible to be more precise about its date because some leaves from
the end of the book, where such information was normally recorded,
are missing. It is the most majestic work of art to survive from the early
centuries of Celtic Christianity, and has often been described as “the
most beautiful book in the world.” A team of talented scribes and
artists working in a monastic scriptorium produced the book.
Its fascination derives from the dignified but elusive character of its
main motifs, and the astonishing variety and complexity of the linear
ornamentation that adorns every one of its 680 pages. Its creators
managed to combine new artistic influences from Eastern Christen-
dom with the traditional interlace patterning of Celtic metalwork to
produce what Gerald of Wales, a 13th-century chronicler, called “the
work not of men, but of angels.” The message sometimes may not be
easy to read, but everyone can admire the elegant precision of the
standard script, the subtlety of the color harmonies, and the exuber-
ant vitality of the human and animal ornamentation.
The book was certainly in the possession of the Columban
monastery of Kells, a town in County Meath, during most of the Mid-
dle Ages. The Annals of Ulster record its theft from the western sacristy
of the stone-built monastic church in 1007, and relate that it was
recovered 2 to 3 months later from “under the sod,” without the
jewel-encrusted silver shrine in which such prestigious books were
kept. Whether it was originally created in Kells remains an unresolved
question. Some authorities think that it might have been begun, if not
completed, in the great monastery founded by St. Columba himself (in
about 561) on the island of Iona off the west coast of Scotland. Iona
had a famous scriptorium and remained the headquarters of the
Columban monastic system until the early years of the 9th century. It
then became an untenable location because of repeated Viking raids,
and in 807 a remnant of the monastic community retreated to the Irish
mainland to build a new headquarters at Kells. It has been suggested
that the great Gospel book that we call “of Kells” may have been
started on Iona, possibly to mark the bicentenary of St. Columba’s
death in 797, and later transferred to Kells for completion. But it is also
possible to argue that the work was entirely done in Kells, and that its
object was to equip the monastery with a great new book to stand on
the high altar of the new foundation.
In the medieval period, the book was (wrongly) regarded as the
work of St. Columba himself and was known as the “great Gospel book
of Colum Cille” (Colum of the Churches). The designation “Book of
Kells” seems to have originated with the famous biblical scholar James
Ussher, who made a study of its original Latin text in the 1620s. The
gift shop in the Colonnades of the Old Library in Trinity College stocks
a large selection of illustrative materials relating to the Book of Kells.
—J. V. Luce, Trinity College and the Royal Irish Academy
here. In 1171 the original simple foundation was extended into a cruciform and
rebuilt in stone by Strongbow. The present structure dates mainly from 1871 to
1878, when a huge restoration took place. Highlights of the interior include
magnificent stonework and graceful pointed arches, with delicately chiseled sup-
porting columns. This is the mother church for the diocese of Dublin and Glen-
dalough of the Church of Ireland. The Treasury in the crypt is open to the
public, and you can hear bells pealing in the belfry.
Christ Church Place, Dublin 8. & 01/677-8099. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €2.50 ($3) students and children
under 15. Daily 10am–5:30pm. Closed Dec 26. Bus: 21A, 50, 50A, 78, 78A, or 78B.
Collins Barracks Officially part of the National Museum, Collins Barracks is

the oldest military barracks in Europe. Even if it were empty, it would be well
worth a visit for the structure itself, a splendidly restored early-18th-century
masterwork by Colonel Thomas Burgh, Ireland’s chief engineer and surveyor
general under Queen Anne. The collection housed here focuses on the decora-
tive arts. Most notable is the extraordinary display of Irish silver and furniture.
Until the acquisition of this vast space, only a fraction of the National Museum’s
collection could be displayed, but that is changing, and more and more treasures
find their way here. It is a prime site for touring exhibitions, so consult the Event
Guide for details. There is also a cafe and gift shop on the premises.
Benburb St., Dublin 7. & 01/677-7444. Free admission. Tours (hours vary) €2 ($2.40) adults, free for sen-
iors and children. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. Bus: 34, 70, or 80.
Dublin Castle Built between 1208 and 1220, this complex represents
some of the oldest surviving architecture in the city. It was the center of British
power in Ireland for more than 7 centuries, until the new Irish government took
it over in 1922. Film buffs might recognize the castle’s courtyard as a setting in
the Neil Jordan film Michael Collins. Highlights include the 13th-century
Record Tower; the State Apartments, once the residence of English viceroys; and
the Chapel Royal, a 19th-century Gothic building with particularly fine plaster
decoration and carved oak gallery fronts and fittings. The newest developments
are the Undercroft, an excavated site on the grounds where an early Viking
fortress stood, and the Treasury, built between 1712 and 1715 and believed to
be the oldest surviving office building in Ireland. Also here are a craft shop, her-
itage center, and restaurant.
Palace St. (off Dame St.), Dublin 2. & 01/677-7129. Admission €4.50 ($5.40) adults, €3.25 ($3.90) seniors
and students, €2 ($2.40) children under 12. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun and holidays
2–5pm. Guided tours every 20–25 min. Bus: 50, 50A, 54, 56A, 77, 77A, or 77B.
Dublin Writers Museum Housed in a stunning 18th-century Geor-

gian mansion with splendid plasterwork and stained glass, the museum is itself
an impressive reminder of the grandeur of the Irish literary tradition. A fine col-
lection of personal manuscripts and mementos that belonged to Yeats, Joyce,
Beckett, Behan, Shaw, Wilde, Swift, and Sheridan are among the items that cel-
ebrate the written word. One of the museum’s rooms is devoted to children’s
literature.
18–19 Parnell Sq. N., Dublin 1. & 01/872-2077. Admission €6.25 ($7.55) adults, €2.25 ($2.70) seniors, stu-
dents and children, €18 ($21) families (2 adults and up to 4 children).AE, DC, MC,V. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm (until
6pm June–Aug); Sun and holidays 11am–5pm. DART to Connolly Station. Bus: 11, 13, 16, 16A, 22, or 22A.
Dublinia What was Dublin like in medieval times? This historically accu-
rate presentation of the Old City from 1170 to 1540 is re-created through a series
of theme exhibits, spectacles, and experiences. Highlights include an illuminated
Medieval Maze, complete with visual effects, background sounds, and aromas
that lead you on a journey through time from the arrival of the Anglo-Normans
in 1170 to the closure of the monasteries in the 1530s. Another segment depicts
everyday life in medieval Dublin with a diorama, as well as a prototype of a 13th-
century quay along the banks of the Liffey. The medieval Fayre displays the wares
of merchants from all over Europe. You can try on a flattering new robe, or, if
you’re feeling vulnerable, stop in at the armorer’s and be fitted for chain mail.
St. Michael’s Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8. & 01/679-4611. www.dublinia.ie. Admission €5.75 ($6.90)
adults, €4.50 ($5.40) seniors, students, and children, €15 ($18) families. AE, MC, V. Apr–Sept daily
10am–5pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 11am–4pm, Sun 10am–4:30pm. Bus: 50, 78A, or 123.
Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art Housed in a finely

restored 18th-century building known as Charlemont House, this gallery is sit-
uated next to the Dublin Writers Museum. It is named after Hugh Lane, an Irish
art connoisseur who was killed during the sinking of the Lusitania in 1915 and
who willed his collection (including works by Courbet, Manet, Monet, and
Corot) to be shared between the government of Ireland and the National Gallery
of London. With the Lane collection as its nucleus, this gallery also contains
paintings from the Impressionist and post-Impressionist traditions, sculptures
by Rodin, stained glass, and works by modern Irish artists. In 2001 the museum
opened the studio of Irish painter Francis Bacon; it was moved piece by piece
from Bacon’s original studio and reconstructed at the museum. The bookshop is
considered the best art bookshop in the city.
Parnell Sq. N., Dublin 1. & 01/874-1903. Fax 01/872-2182. www.hughlane.ie. Free admission to museum;
Francis Bacon studio €7 ($8.45) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) students. MC, V. Tues–Thurs 9:30am–6pm; Fri–Sat
9:30am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. DART to Connolly or Tara stations. Bus: 3, 10, 11, 13, 16, or 19.
Kilmainham Gaol Historical Museum This is a key sight for anyone

interested in Ireland’s struggle for independence from British rule. Within these
walls political prisoners were incarcerated, tortured, and killed from 1796 until
1924, when President Eamon de Valera left as its final prisoner. To walk along
these corridors, through the exercise yard, or into the main compound is a mov-
ing experience that lingers hauntingly in the memory. Note: The War Memo-
rial Gardens (& 01/677-0236), along the banks of the Liffey, are a 5-minute
walk from Kilmainham Gaol. The gardens were designed by the famous British
architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869–1944), who completed a number of com-
missions for Irish houses and gardens. The gardens are fairly well maintained,
and continue to present a moving testimony to Ireland’s war dead. They are
open weekdays 8am to dark, Saturday 10am to dark.
Kilmainham, Dublin 8. & 01/453-5984. www.heritageireland.ie. Guided tour €5 ($6) adults, €3.50 ($4.20)
seniors, €2 ($2.40) children, €11 ($13) families. AE, MC, V. Apr–Sept daily 9:30am–4:45pm; Oct–Mar
Mon–Fri 9:30am–4pm, Sun 10am–4:45pm. Bus: 51B, 78A, or 79 at O’Connell Bridge.
National Gallery of Ireland This museum houses Ireland’s national

art collection, as well as a superb European collection of art spanning from the
14th to the 20th centuries. Every major European school of painting is repre-
sented, including fine selections by Italian Renaissance artists (especially Car-
avaggio’s The Taking of Christ), French Impressionists, and Dutch 17th-century
masters. The highlight of the Irish collection is the room dedicated to the mes-
merizing works of Jack B. Yeats, brother of the poet W. B. Yeats. All public areas
are wheelchair accessible. The museum has a fine gallery shop and an excellent
self-service cafe run by Fitzers (see “Where to Dine,” earlier in this chapter).
Merrion Sq. W., Dublin 2. & 01/661-5133. Fax 01/661-5372. www.nationalgallery.ie. Free admission. Mon–
Sat 9:30am–5:30pm; Thurs 9:30am–8:30pm; Sun noon–5pm. Free guided tours (meet in the Shaw Room) Sat
3pm, Sun 2, 3, and 4pm. Closed Good Friday and Dec 24–26. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 6, 7, 7A, 8, 10, 44, 47, 47B,
48A, or 62.
National Museum Established in 1890, this museum is a reflection of

Ireland’s heritage from 2000 B.C. to the present. It is the home of many of the
country’s greatest historical finds, including the Treasury exhibit, which toured
the United States and Europe in the 1970s with the Ardagh Chalice, Tara
Brooch, and Cross of Cong. Other highlights range from the artifacts from the
Wood Quay excavations of the Old Dublin Settlements to “Or,” an extensive
exhibition of Irish Bronze Age gold ornaments dating from 2200 B.C. to 700 B.C.
The museum has a shop and a cafe. Note: The National Museum encompasses
two other attractions, Collins Barracks and the Natural History Museum; see
their separate listings.
Kildare St. and Merrion St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7444. Free admission. Tours (hours vary) €2 ($2.40) adults,
free for seniors and children. MC, V. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 7, 7A, 8, 10, 11, or 13.
Phoenix Park Kids Just 3.2km (2 miles) west of the city center, Phoenix
Park, the largest urban park in Europe, is the playground of Dublin. A network
of roads and quiet pedestrian walkways traverses its 704 hectares (1,760 acres),
which are informally landscaped with ornamental gardens and nature trails.
Avenues of trees, including oak, beech, pine, chestnut, and lime, separate broad
expanses of grassland. The homes of the Irish president (see above) and the U.S.
ambassador are on the grounds, as is the Dublin Zoo (see “Especially for Kids,”
later in this chapter). Livestock graze peacefully on pasturelands, deer roam the
forested areas, and horses romp on polo fields. The Phoenix Park Visitors
Centre, adjacent to Ashtown Castle, offers exhibitions and an audiovisual pres-
entation on the park’s history. The cafe/restaurant is open 10am to 5pm week-
days, 10am to 6pm weekends. Free car parking is adjacent to the center.
Phoenix Park, Dublin 8. & 01/677-0095. www.heritageireland.ie. Visitors Centre admission €2.75 ($3.30)
adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors and students, €1.25 ($1.50) children, €9 ($11) families. June–Sept 10am–6pm
(call for off-season hours). Bus: 37, 38, or 39.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral It is said that St. Patrick baptized converts on this
site, and consequently a church has stood here since A.D. 450, making it the old-
est Christian site in Dublin. The present cathedral dates from 1190, but because
of a fire and 14th-century rebuilding, not much of the original foundation
remains. It is mainly early English in style, with a square medieval tower that
houses the largest ringing peal bells in Ireland, and an 18th-century spire. The
90m-long (300-ft.) interior makes it the longest church in the country. St.
Patrick’s is closely associated with Jonathan Swift, who was dean from 1713 to
1745 and whose tomb lies in the south aisle. Others memorialized within the
cathedral include Turlough O’Carolan, a blind harpist and composer and the
last of the great Irish bards; Michael William Balfe, the composer; and Douglas
Hyde, the first president of Ireland. St. Patrick’s is the national cathedral of the
Church of Ireland.
21–50 Patrick’s Close, Patrick St., Dublin 8. & 01/475-4817. Fax 01/454-6374. www.stpatrickscathedral.ie.
Admission €4 ($4.80) adults, €3 ($3.60) students and seniors, €9 ($11) families. MC, V. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm
year-round; Nov–Feb Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–3pm. Closed except for services Dec 24–26 and Jan 1. Bus: 65,
65B, 50, 50A, 54, 54A, 56A, or 77.
MORE ATTRACTIONS
ART GALLERIES & ART MUSEUMS
Boulevard Gallery The fence around Merrion Square doubles as a display
railing on summer weekends for an outdoor display of local art similar to those
you’ll find in Greenwich Village or Montmartre. Permits are given to local artists
only for the sale of their own work, so this is a chance to meet an artist as well
as to browse or buy.
Merrion Sq. W., Dublin 2. Free admission. May–Sept Sat–Sun 10:30am–6pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 46,
or 62.
Irish Film Centre This art-house film institute is a hip hangout in

Dublin’s artsy Temple Bar district. The Irish Film Centre houses two cinemas,
the Irish Film Archive, a library, a bookshop and cafe, and eight film-related
organizations. Free screenings of Flashback, a history of Irish film since 1896,
start at noon Wednesday to Sunday from June to mid-September. Follow with
lunch in the cafe for a perfect midday outing.
6 Eustace St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-5744, or 01/679-3477 for cinema box office. www.irishfilm.ie. Free
admission; cinema tickets €8 ($9.60). Centre open daily 10am–11pm; cinemas daily 2–11pm; cinema box
office daily 1:30–9pm. Bus: 21A, 78A, or 78B.
Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA) Housed in the splendidly restored

17th-century edifice known as the Royal Hospital, IMMA is a showcase of Irish
and international art from the latter half of the 20th century. The buildings and
grounds also provide a venue for theatrical and musical events, overlapping the
visual and performing arts. The galleries contain the work of Irish and interna-
tional artists from the small but impressive permanent collection, with numer-
ous temporary exhibitions. There’s even a drawing room, where kids and parents
can record their impressions of the museum with the crayons provided. The
formal gardens, an important early feature of this magnificent structure, have
been restored and are open to the public during museum hours. In 2000 a series
of new galleries opened in the restored Deputy Master’s House, in the northeast
corner of the Royal Hospital site.
Military Rd., Kilmainham. & 01/612-9900. www.modernart.ie. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5:30pm;
Sun noon–5:30pm. Bus: 79 or 90.
Irish Music Hall of Fame The draw here is the exhaustive collection of
memorabilia—much of it exclusive—chronicling the history of Irish music,
from traditional and folk through pop, rock, and dance. There’s loads of great
stuff about U2, Van Morrison, Christy Moore, the Chieftains, the Dubliners,
Thin Lizzy, Bob Geldof, Enya, the Cranberries, and Sinéad O’Connor, right up
to BoyZone, Westlife, and Samantha Mumba.
57 Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1. & 01/878-3345. Free admission. Daily 10am–5:30pm. DART: Connolly. Bus:
25, 26, 34, 37, 38A, 39A, 39B, 66A, or 67A.
Temple Bar Gallery and Studios Founded in 1983 in the heart of Dublin’s
“Left Bank,” this is one of the largest studio and gallery complexes in Europe.
More than 30 Irish artists work here at a variety of contemporary visual arts,
including sculpture, painting, printing, and photography. Only the gallery sec-
tion is open to the public, but you can make an appointment in advance to view
individual artists at work.
5–9 Temple Bar, Dublin 2. & 01/671-0073. Fax 01/677-7527. Free admission. Tues–Wed 11am–6pm; Thurs
11am–7pm; Sun 2–6pm. Bus: 21A, 46A, 46B, 51B, 51C, 68, 69, or 86.
BREWERIES/DISTILLERIES
Guinness Storehouse Founded in 1759, the Guinness Brewery is one of
the world’s largest breweries, producing a distinctive dark stout, famous for its
thick, creamy head. Although tours of the brewery itself are no longer allowed,
visitors are welcome to explore the adjacent Guinness Hopstore, a converted
19th-century four-story building. It houses the World of Guinness Exhibition,
an audiovisual presentation showing how the stout is made; the Cooperage
Gallery, displaying one of the finest collections of tools in Europe; the Gilroy
Gallery, dedicated to the graphic design work of John Gilroy; and last but not
least a bar where visitors can sample a glass of the famous brew. The brewery
recently became home to the largest glass of stout in the world, roughly 60m
(200 ft.) tall, whose head is in fact an observatory restaurant offering spectacu-
lar views of the city.
St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8. & 01/408-4800. www.guinness-storehouse.com. Admission €14 ($16) adults,
€9 ($11) seniors and students, €5 ($6) children 6–12, €30 ($36) families. AE, MC, V. Daily 9:30am–5pm.
Guided tours every 1⁄2 hr. Bus: 51B, 78A, or 123.
The Old Jameson Distillery This museum illustrates the history of Irish
whiskey, known in Irish as uisce beatha (the water of life). Housed in a former
distillery warehouse, it consists of a short introductory audiovisual presentation,
an exhibition area, and a whiskey-making demonstration. At the end of the tour,
visitors can sample whiskey at an in-house pub, where an array of fixed-price
menus (for lunch, tea, or dinner) is available.
Note: A new added attraction here at Smithfield Village is “The Chimney”
(see “The Bird’s-Eye View,” p. 90), a ride to the top of a 56m (185-ft.) brick
chimney built in 1895 and converted to support an observation chamber from
which you’ll enjoy unparalleled views of the city.
Bow St., Smithfield Village, Dublin 7. & 01/807-2355. Admission €8 ($9.60) adults, €6.25 ($7.55) students
and seniors, €3.50 ($4.20) children, €20 ($24) families. Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm (last tour at 5pm); Sun
11am–7pm. Bus: 67, 67A, 68, 69, 79, or 90.
C AT H E D R A L S & C H U R C H E S
St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral are listed earlier in this
chapter, under “The Top Attractions.”
Our Lady of Mount Carmel/Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church One
of the city’s largest churches, this edifice was built between 1825 and 1827 on
the site of a pre-Reformation Carmelite priory (1539) and an earlier Carmelite
abbey (13th c.). It has since been extended, with an entrance from Aungier
Street. This is a favorite place of pilgrimage, especially on February 14, because
the body of St. Valentine is enshrined here (Pope Gregory XVI presented it to
the church in 1836). The other highlight is the 15th-century black oak
Madonna, Our Lady of Dublin.
56 Aungier St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-8821. Free admission. Mon and Wed–Fri 8am–6:30pm; Sat 8am–7pm;
Sun 8am–7:30pm; Tues 8am–9:30pm. Bus: 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 83, 122, or 155.
St. Audeon’s Church Situated next to the only remaining gate of the Old
City walls (dating from 1214), this church is said to be the only surviving
medieval parish in Dublin. Although it is partly in ruins, significant parts have
survived, including the west doorway, which dates from 1190, and the 13th-
century nave. In addition, the 17th-century bell tower houses three bells cast in
1423, making them the oldest in Ireland. It’s a Church of Ireland property, but
nearby is another St. Audeon’s Church, this one Catholic and dating from 1846.
It was in the latter church that Father Flash Kavanagh used to say the world’s
fastest mass so that his congregation was out in time for the football matches.
Since 1999, entrance to the ancient church is through the visitor center. The
center’s exhibition, relating the history of St. Audeon’s, is self-guided, while vis-
its to the church itself are by guided tour only.
Cornmarket (off High St.), Dublin 8. & 01/677-0088. Admission and tour €2 ($2.40) adults, €1.25 ($1.50)
seniors, €1 ($1.20) children and students, €5.50 ($6.60) families. June–Sept daily 9:30am–5:30pm. Last
admission 45 min. prior to closing. Bus: 21A, 78A, or 78B.
St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral Because Dublin’s two main cathedrals (Christ

Church and St. Patrick’s) belong to the Protestant Church of Ireland, St. Mary’s
is the closest the Catholics get to having their own. Tucked into a corner of a
rather-unimpressive back street, it is in the heart of the city’s north side and is
considered the main Catholic parish church of the city center. Built between
1815 and 1825, it is of the Greek Revival Doric style, providing a distinct con-
trast to the Gothic Revival look of most other churches of the period. The exte-
rior portico is modeled on the Temple of Theseus in Athens, with six Doric
columns, while the Renaissance-style interior is patterned after the Church of St.
Philip de Reule of Paris. The church is noted for its Palestrina Choir, which sings
a Latin Mass every Sunday at 11am.
Cathedral and Marlborough sts., Dublin 1. & 01/874-5441. Free admission. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat–Sun
8am–7pm. DART: Connolly. Bus: 28, 29A, 30, 31A, 31B, 32A, 32B, or 44A.
St. Michan’s Church Built on the site of an early Danish chapel (1095), this
17th-century edifice claims to be the only parish church on the north side of the
Liffey surviving from a Viking foundation. Now under the Church of Ireland
banner, it has some fine interior woodwork and an organ (dated 1724) on which
Handel is said to have played his Messiah. The church was completely and beau-
tifully restored in 1998. A unique (and, let it be noted, most macabre) feature
of this church is the underground burial vault. Because of the dry atmosphere,
bodies have lain for centuries without showing signs of decomposition. The
church is wheelchair accessible, but the vaults are not.
Church St., Dublin 7. & 01/872-4154. Free admission. Guided tour of church and vaults €3.50 ($4.20)
adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors and students, €2.50 ($3) children under 12. Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 12:30–2:30pm, Sat
10am–1pm; Mar–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–12:45pm and 2–4:45pm, Sat 10am–1pm. Bus: 134 (from Abbey St.).
St. Teresa’s Church The foundation stone was laid in 1793, and the church
was opened in 1810 by the Discalced Carmelite Fathers. After continuous
enlargement, it reached its present form in 1876. This was the first post–Penal
Law church to be legally and openly erected in Dublin, following the Catholic
Relief Act of 1793. Among the artistic highlights are John Hogan’s Dead Christ,
a sculpture displayed beneath the altar, and Phyllis Burke’s seven beautiful
stained-glass windows.
Clarendon St., Dublin 2. & 01/671-8466. Free admission; donations welcome. Daily 8am–8pm or longer.
Bus: 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 22, 22A, 55, or 83.
A CEMETERY
Glasnevin Cemetery Situated north of the city center, the Irish National
Cemetery was founded in 1832 and covers more than 50 hectares (124 acres).
Most people buried here were ordinary citizens (especially poignant are the sec-
tions dedicated to children who died young), but there are also many famous
names on the headstones. They range from former Irish presidents such as
Eamon de Valera and Sean T. O’Kelly to other political heroes such as Michael
Collins, Daniel O’Connell, Roger Casement, and Charles Stewart Parnell. Lit-
erary figures also have their place here, including poet Gerard Manley Hopkins
and writers Christy Brown and Brendan Behan. Though open to all, this is pri-
marily a Catholic burial ground, with many Celtic crosses. A heritage map, on
sale in the flower shop at the entrance, serves as a guide to who’s buried where,
or you can take a free 2-hour guided tour.
Finglas Rd., Dublin 11. & 01/830-1133. Free admission. Daily 8am–4pm. Free guided tours Wed and Fri
2:30pm from main gate. Map: €3.50 ($4.20). Bus: 19, 19A, 40, 40A, 40B, or 40C.
MORE HISTORIC BUILDINGS

Although it’s not open to the public, one building whose exterior is worth a look
is Mansion House, Dawson Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/676-1845). Built by
Joshua Dawson, the Queen Anne–style building has been the official residence
of Dublin’s lord mayors since 1715. Here the first Dáil Éireann (House of Rep-
resentatives) assembled, in 1919, to adopt Ireland’s Declaration of Independence
and ratify the Proclamation of the Irish Republic by the insurgents of 1916.
Ride the DART to Pearse, or take bus no. 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
Bank of Ireland Centre/Parliament House Although it’s now a busy
bank, this building was erected in 1729 to house the Irish Parliament. It became
superfluous when the British and Irish parliaments were merged in London. In
fact, the Irish Parliament voted itself out of existence, becoming the only
recorded parliament in history to do so. Highlights include the windowless front
portico, built to avoid distractions from the outside when Parliament was in ses-
sion, and the unique House of Lords chamber. The room is famed for its Irish
oak woodwork, 18th-century tapestries, golden mace, and a sparkling Irish crys-
tal chandelier of 1,233 pieces, dating from 1765.
This is also the home of the Bank of Ireland Arts Centre, which plays host
to an impressive program of art exhibitions, concerts, and poetry readings. Entry
to readings, lunchtime recitals, and exhibitions is free.
2 College Green, Dublin 2. & 01/661-5933, ext. 2265. Free admission. Mon–Wed and Fri 10am–4pm; Thurs
10am–5pm. Guided 45-min. tours of House of Lords chamber Tues 10:30am, 11:30am, and 1:45pm (except
holidays). DART: Tara St. Bus: Any city-center bus.
Custom House The Custom House, which sits prominently on the Liffey’s
north bank, is one of Dublin’s finest Georgian buildings. Designed by James
Gandon and completed in 1791, it is beautifully proportioned, with a long clas-
sical facade of graceful pavilions, arcades, and columns, and a central dome
topped by a 5m (16-ft.) statue of Commerce. The 14 keystones over the doors
and windows are known as the Riverine Heads, because they represent the
Atlantic Ocean and the 13 principal rivers of Ireland. Although burned to a shell
in 1921, the building has been masterfully restored and its bright Portland stone
recently cleaned. The visitor center’s exhibitions and audiovisual presentation
unfold the remarkable history of the structure from its creation by James Gan-
don to its reconstruction after the War of Independence.
Custom House Quay, Dublin 1. & 01/888-2538. €1.25 ($1.50) adults, €4 ($4.80) families. Mid-Mar to
Oct Mon–Fri 10am–12:30pm, Sat–Sun 2–5pm; Nov to mid-Mar Wed–Fri 10am–12:30pm, Sun 2–5pm. DART:
Tara St.
Four Courts Home to the Irish law courts since 1796, this fine 18th-century
building overlooks the north bank of the Liffey on Dublin’s west side. With a
sprawling 132m (440-ft.) facade, it was designed by James Gandon and is dis-
tinguished by its graceful Corinthian columns, massive dome (192m/64 ft. in
diameter), and exterior statues of Justice, Mercy, Wisdom, and Moses (sculpted
by Edward Smyth). The building was severely burned during the Irish Civil War
of 1922, but has been artfully restored. The public is admitted only when court
is in session, so phone in advance.
Inns Quay, Dublin 8. & 01/872-5555. Free admission. Mon–Fri 11am–1pm and 2–4pm, but only if court is
in session. Bus: 34, 70, or 80.
Fun Fact Monumental Humor
Dublin boasts countless public monuments, some modest, others

boldly evident. The Irish make a sport of naming them, giving their
irrepressible wit and ridicule yet another outlet. A sampler:
Sweet Molly Malone, a figment of Irish imagination—inspiring
poetry, song, and most recently sculpture—appears complete with her
flower cart, all larger than life, at the intersection of Nassau and
Grafton streets, across from the Trinity College Provost’s house. Ms.
Malone’s plunging neckline may explain why she is known as “the tart
with the cart.”
Just around the corner from Molly on Dame Street stands another
sculpture, a silent frenzy of trumpeters and streaming columns of
water, proclaiming “You’re a nation again”—popularly transliterated
as “urination again.”
Then there’s Dublin’s testimonial to arguably Ireland’s greatest
patriot and Dublin’s most eminent native son, Theobald Wolfe Tone.
Born at 44 Stafford St. in 1763 and graduated from Trinity College,
Tone went on to spark a revolutionary fervor among the Irish. His time-
less contribution to Ireland and the world is commemorated in a semi-
circular assemblage of rough-hewn columns on the north side of
Stephen’s Green—better known as “Tonehenge.”
Across the Liffey, on Dublin’s north side, are two theaters, the Gate
and the Abbey, that have set the standard for Irish theater in this cen-
tury. The Gate was founded by and flourished for decades under
Michael MacLiammoir and Hilton Edwards, a respected gay couple.
The Abbey, for its part, gained a reputation for stage-Irish productions
served up for overseas tourists. Their stature makes them not immune
from but prey to Irish irreverence—they were collectively known as
“Sodom and Begorrah.”
The city’s newest monument is the Millennium Spire, a 120m-high
(394-ft.) conical spire made of stainless steel, designed by London
architect Ian Ritchie. The new spire is hoped to reflect Dublin of the
21st century and replaces Nelson’s Pillar, which was erected by the
British during colonial times. Dubliners have had great fun coming up
with a suitable nickname for its latest monument. So far, the front run-
ner is simply “The Spike.”
Anna Livia, Joyce’s mythical personification of the River Liffey, used
to be found cast in bronze on O’Connell Street across from the General
Post Office. Reclining in a pool of streaming water, Anna had been nick-
named by locals “the floozie in the Jacuzzi.” But she was moved to
make room for the Millennium Spire and hasn’t found a new home yet.
General Post Office (GPO) With a facade of Ionic columns and Greco-
Roman pilasters 60m (200 ft.) long and 17m (56 ft.) high, this is more than a
post office; it is the symbol of Irish freedom. Built between 1815 and 1818, it
was the main stronghold of the Irish Volunteers in 1916. Set afire, the building
was gutted and abandoned after the surrender and execution of many of the
Irish rebel leaders. It reopened as a post office in 1929 after the formation of the
Irish Free State. In memory of the building’s dramatic role in Irish history, an
impressive bronze statue of Cuchulainn, the legendary Irish hero, is on display.
Look closely at the pillars outside—you can still see bullet holes from the siege.
O’Connell St., Dublin 1. & 01/705-8833. www.anpost.ie. Free admission. Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; Sun
10:30am–6:30pm. DART: Connolly. Bus: 25, 26, 34, 37, 38A, 39A, 39B, 66A, or 67A.
Leinster House Dating from 1745 and originally known as Kildare House,
this building is said to have been the model for Irish-born architect James
Hoban’s design for the White House in Washington, D.C. It was sold in 1815
to the Royal Dublin Society, which developed it as a cultural center. The
National Museum, Library, and Gallery all surround it. In 1924, however, it
took on a new role when the Irish Free State government acquired it as a parlia-
ment house. Since then, it has been the meeting place for the Dáil Éireann (Irish
House of Representatives) and Seanad Éireann (Irish Senate), which together
constitute the Oireachtas (National Parliament). Tickets for a guided tour when
the Dáil is in session (Oct–May, Tues–Thurs) must be arranged in advance from
the Public Relations Office (& 01/618-3066).
Kildare St. and Merrion Sq., Dublin 2. & 01/618-3000. Free admission. By appointment only, Oct–May Mon
and Fri 10am–4:30pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, or 8.
Newman House In the heart of Dublin on the south side of St. Stephen’s
Green, this is the historic seat of the Catholic University of Ireland. Named for
Cardinal John Henry Newman, the 19th-century writer and theologian and first
rector of the university, it consists of two of the finest Georgian town houses in
Dublin. They date from 1740 and are decorated with outstanding Palladian and
rococo plasterwork, marble tiled floors, and wainscot paneling. No. 85 has been
magnificently restored to its original splendor. Note: Every other Sunday, New-
man House hosts an antiques-and-collectibles fair, where dealers from through-
out Ireland sell a wide range of items, including silver, rare books, paintings and
prints, coins, stamps, and so forth.
85–86 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. & 01/706-7422. Fax 01/706-7211. Guided tours €5 ($6) adults, €4
($4.80) seniors, students, and children under 12. June–Aug Tues–Fri noon–5pm, Sat 2–5pm, Sun 11am–2pm;
Oct–May by appointment only. Bus: 10, 11, 13, 14, 14A, 15A, or 15B.
LIBRARIES
Chester Beatty Library and Gallery of Oriental Art Bequeathed to the
Irish nation in 1956 by Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, this extraordinary collection
contains approximately 22,000 manuscripts, rare books, miniature paintings, and
objects from Western, Middle Eastern, and Far Eastern cultures. There are more
than 270 copies of the Koran to be found here, and the library has especially
impressive biblical and early Christian manuscripts. There’s a gift shop on the
premises.
Clock Tower Building, Dublin Castle, Dublin 2. & 01/407-0750. Free admission. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat
11am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Free guided tours Wed and Sat 2:30pm. DART: Sandymount. Bus: 5, 6, 6A, 7A, 8, 10,
46, 46A, 46B, or 64.
Marsh’s Library This is Ireland’s oldest public library, founded in 1701 by

Narcissus Marsh, Archbishop of Dublin. It is a repository of more than 25,000
scholarly volumes, chiefly on theology, medicine, ancient history, maps, and

Hebrew, Syriac, Greek, Latin, and French literature. In his capacity as dean
of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Jonathan Swift was a governor of Marsh’s Library.
The interior—a magnificent example of a 17th-century scholar’s library—has
remained very much the same for 3 centuries. Special exhibits are designed and
mounted annually.
St. Patrick’s Close, Upper Kevin St., Dublin 8. & 01/454-3511. www.marshlibrary.ie. Donation of €1.25
($1.50) requested, free for children. Mon and Wed–Fri 10am–12:45pm and 2–5pm; Sat 10:30am–12:45pm.
Bus: 50, 54A, or 56A.
National Library of Ireland If you’re coming to Ireland to research your

roots, this library should be one of your first stops (along with the Heraldic
Museum; see below). It has thousands of volumes and records that yield ancestral
information. Opened at this location in 1890, this is the principal library of Irish
studies. It’s particularly noted for its collection of first editions and the papers of
Irish writers and political figures, such as W. B. Yeats, Daniel O’Connell, and
Patrick Pearse. It also has an unrivaled collection of maps of Ireland.
Kildare St., Dublin 2. & 01/603-0200. Fax 01/676-6690. www.nli.ie. Free admission. Mon–Wed 10am–9pm;
Thurs–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat 10am–1pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
National Photographic Archive The newest member of the Temple Bar

cultural complex, the National Photographic Archive houses the extensive (more
than 300,000 items) photo collection of the National Library, and serves as its
photo exhibition space. In addition to the exhibition area, there is a library and
a small gift shop. Admission to the reading room is by appointment.
Meeting House Sq., Temple Bar, Dublin 2. & 01/603-0200. www.nli.ie. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm.
DART: Tara St. Bus: 21A, 46A, 46B, 51B, 51C, 68, 69, or 86.
LITERARY LANDMARKS
See also “Libraries,” above, and the listing for the Dublin Writers Museum,
under “The Top Attractions,” earlier in this section. You might also be interested
in the James Joyce Museum, in nearby Sandycove; it’s described in section 10,
“Side Trips from Dublin.”
James Joyce Centre Near Parnell Square and the Dublin Writers Museum,
the Joyce Centre is in a restored 1784 Georgian town house, once the home of
Denis J. Maginni, a dancing instructor who appears briefly in Ulysses. The
Ulysses Portrait Gallery on the second floor has a fascinating collection of pho-
tographs and drawings of characters from Ulysses who had a life outside the
novel. The recently opened Paul Leon Exhibition Room holds the writing table
used by Joyce in Paris when he was working on Finnegan’s Wake. The room is
named after Paul Leon, an academic who aided Joyce in literary, business, and
domestic affairs and salvaged many of the author’s papers after Joyce and his
family left Paris. There are talks and audiovisual presentations daily. Guided
walking tours through the neighborhood streets of “Joyce Country” in Dublin’s
north inner city are offered daily.
35 N. Great George’s St., Dublin 1. & 01/878-8547. www.jamesjoyce.ie. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €4
($4.80) seniors, students, and children under 10, €13 ($15) families. Separate fees for walking tours and
events. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm; Sun 12:30–5pm. Closed Dec 24–26. DART: Connolly. Bus: 3, 10, 11,
11A, 13, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 22, or 22A.
Shaw Birthplace This simple two-story terraced house, built in 1838, was
the birthplace in 1856 of George Bernard Shaw, one of Dublin’s three winners
of the Nobel Prize for Literature. Recently restored, it has been furnished in
Victorian style to re-create the atmosphere of Shaw’s early days. Rooms on view
are the kitchen, the maid’s room, the nursery, the drawing room, and a couple
of bedrooms, including young Bernard’s. The house is off South Circular Road,
a 15-minute walk from St. Stephen’s Green.
33 Synge St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-0854. Admission €6 ($7.20) adults, €5 ($6) seniors and students, €3.50
($4.20) children, €17 ($20) families. Discounted combination ticket with Dublin Writers Museum and James
Joyce Museum available. May–Oct Mon–Tues and Thurs–Fri 10am–1pm and 2–5pm, Sat–Sun 2–5pm. Closed
Nov–Apr. Bus: 16, 19, or 22.
MORE MUSEUMS
See also “Art Galleries & Art Museums,” earlier in this chapter. The National
Gallery, the National Museum, the Dublin Writers Museum, and Kilmainham
Gaol Historical Museum are all listed earlier in this section, in “The Top
Attractions.”
Dublin Civic Museum In the old City Assembly House, a fine 18th-century
Georgian structure next to the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, this museum
focuses on the history of the Dublin area from medieval to modern times. In
addition to old street signs, maps, and prints, you can see Viking artifacts,
wooden water mains, coal covers—and even the head from the statue of Lord
Nelson, which stood in O’Connell Street until it was blown up in 1965.
Exhibits change three or four times a year.
58 S. William St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-4260. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–2pm. Bus: 10,
11, or 13.
GAA Museum On the grounds of Croke Park, principal stadium of the

Gaelic Athletic Association, this museum dramatically presents the athletic her-
itage of Ireland. The Gaelic Games (Gaelic football, hurling, handball, and
camogie) have long been contested on an annual basis between teams represent-
ing the various regions of Ireland. Test your skills with interactive exhibits, and
peruse the extensive video archive of football finals dating back to 1931. The
12-minute film A Sunday in September captures admirably the hysteria of the
final match. Note that the museum is open only to new stand ticket holders on
match days.
Croke Park, Dublin 3. & 01/855-8176. Fax 01/855-8104. www.gaa.ie. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €3.50
($4.20) students, €3 ($3.60) children, €13 ($16) families. May–Sept daily 9:30am–5pm; Oct–Apr Tues–Sat
10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Bus: 3, 11, 11A, 16, 16A, 51A, or 123.
Heraldic Museum/Genealogical Office The only one of its kind in the

world, this museum focuses on the uses of heraldry. Exhibits include shields,
banners, coins, paintings, porcelain, and stamps depicting coats of arms. In-
house searches by the office researcher are billed at the rate of €56 ($67) per
hour. This is the ideal place to start researching your roots.
2 Kildare St., Dublin 2. & 01/603-0200. Fax 01/662-1062. Free admission. Mon–Wed 10am–8:30pm;
Thurs–Fri 10am–4:30pm; Sat 10am–12:30pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 9, 10, 14, or 15.
Natural History Museum A division of the National Museum of Ireland,

the recently renovated Natural History Museum is considered one of the finest
traditional Victorian-style museums in the world. In addition to presenting the
zoological history of Ireland, it contains examples of major animal groups from
around the world, including many that are rare or extinct. The Blaschka glass
models of marine animals are a big attraction.
Merrion St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7444. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. DART: Pearse.
Bus: 7, 7A, 8, or 13A.
Number Twenty Nine This unique museum is in the heart of one of Dublin’s
fashionable Georgian streets. The restored four-story town house is designed to
reflect the lifestyle of a middle-class Georgian family during the heyday period
from 1790 to 1820. The exhibition ranges from artifacts and artwork of the time
to carpets, curtains, decorations, plasterwork, and bell pulls. The nursery holds
dolls and toys of the era.
29 Lower Fitzwilliam St., Dublin 2. & 01/702-6165. Admission €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €1.50 ($1.80) seniors,
students, and children under 16. MC, V. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. Closed 2 weeks before Christmas.
DART: Pearse. Bus: 7, 8, 10, or 45.
Waterways Visitor Centre Heading south from Dublin on the DART, you
may notice the tiny Waterways Visitor Centre, a brilliant white cube floating on
the Grand Canal Basin amidst massive derelict brick warehouses. This intriguing
modern building is home to a fascinating exhibit describing the history of Ireland’s
inland waterways, a network of canals connecting Dublin westward and north-
ward to the Shannon watershed. The center’s shiny white exterior gives way inside
to the subdued tones of Irish oak wall panels and a hardwood ship’s floor. A series
of exhibits describes aspects of canal design, and several interactive models attempt
to demonstrate dynamically the daily operations of the canals. No longer used
for transporting goods, the canals of Ireland are now popular with boaters and
hikers, and there’s some information here for those interested in these activities.
Grand Canal Quay, Ringsend Rd., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7510. Admission €2.50 ($3) adults, €1.90 ($2.30)
seniors, €1.20 ($1.45) students, €1.50 ($1.80) children, €6.35 ($7.85) families. No credit cards. June–Sept
daily 9:30am–5:30pm; Oct–May Wed–Sun 12:30–5pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 1 or 3.
A SIGHT & SOUND SHOW

Dublin Experience An ideal orientation for first-time visitors to the
Irish capital, this 45-minute multimedia sight-and-sound show traces the his-
tory of Dublin from the earliest times to the present. It takes place in the Davis
Theatre of Trinity College, on Nassau Street.
Trinity College, Davis Theatre, Dublin 2. & 01/608-1688. €4.20 ($5) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors and stu-
dents, €2.20 ($2.65) children, €8.40 ($10) families. Daily late May to early Oct, hourly shows 10am–5pm.
DART: Tara St. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 15A, 15B, 15C, 46, 55, 62, 63, 83, or 84.
ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS

The Ark: A Cultural Centre for Children Kids If you’ve got kids,
make this place a top priority on your itinerary. Every year more than 20,000
children visit this unique cultural center where they are the makers, thinkers,
doers, listeners, and watchers. Age-specific programs are geared to small groups
of kids from 4 to 14 years old. There are organized minicourses (1–2 hr. long)
designed around themes in music, visual arts, and theater, as well as workshops
in photography, instrument making, and the art of architecture. The custom-
designed arts center has three modern floors that house a theater, a gallery, and
a workshop for hands-on learning sessions. The wonderful semicircular theater
can be configured to open onto either of the other spaces, or outdoors onto
Meeting House Square. Weekdays are often booked for school groups, but Sat-
urdays (and sometimes Sun) are kept open for families. Check the current
themes and schedule, and book accordingly.
Eustace St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2. & 01/670-7788. Fax 01/670-7758. www.ark.ie. Individual activities €6.50
($7.85) per child. Daily 10am–4pm. Closed mid-Aug to mid-Sept. DART: Tara St. Bus: 37, 39, 51, or 51B.
Dublin’s Viking Adventure Kids Much like Colonial Williamsburg does,

this popular attraction brings you back in time with the help of actors playing
citizens of Viking-era Dublin. The “Vikings” who populate the village create a
lively, authentic atmosphere in their period houses and detailed costumes. The
townspeople engage in the activities of daily life in the Wood Quay area along
the Liffey, while you watch and interact with them.
Temple Bar (enter from Essex St.), Dublin 8. & 01/679-6040. Fax 01/679-6033. Admission €6 ($7.20)
adults, €5 ($6) seniors and students, €4 ($4.80) children, €18 ($22) families. AE, MC, V. Mar–Oct Tues–Sat
10am–4:30pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sat 10am–1pm and 2–4:30pm. DART: Tara St., then no. 90 bus. Bus: 51, 51B,
79, or 90.
Dublin Zoo Kids Established in 1830, this is the third-oldest zoo in the
world (after those in London and Paris), nestled in the city’s largest playground,
the Phoenix Park, about 3.2km (2 miles) west of the city center. In the past few
years, the zoo has doubled in size to about 24 hectares (60 acres) and provides a
naturally landscaped habitat for more than 235 species of wild animals and trop-
ical birds. Highlights for youngsters include the Children’s Pets’ Corner and a
train ride around the zoo. You can visit purpose-specific exhibits such as “African
Plains,” “Fringes of the Arctic,” the “World of Primates,” the “World of Cats,”
and the “City Farm and Pets Corner.” There are playgrounds interspersed
throughout the zoo, and there are also several gift shops. A downside: The
restaurants within the zoo serve fast food that’s nothing short of awful, but there
are plenty of picnic areas for folks who want to bring their own meals.
Phoenix Park, Dublin 8. & 01/677-1425. www.dublinzoo.ie. Admission €13 ($16) adults, €10 ($12) sen-
iors and children 3–16, free for children under 3, €29–€34 ($35–$41) families, depending on number of chil-
dren. V. Summer Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun 10:30am–6pm. Bus: 10, 25, or 26.
Hey! Doodle Doodle Kids Finds If your child likes arts and crafts, make
a point of stopping into Temple Bar’s paint-it-yourself ceramics studio. Kids of
all ages can choose from a wide range of white ready-to-paint pieces—including
mugs, plates, wine coolers, pasta dishes, cups, and dinnerware—and personalize
each with their own artwork. Paints, stencils, stamps, and inspiration are all pro-
vided along with a little instruction for novices. The finished pieces are kiln-fired
and ready to pick up a few days later (so it makes sense to visit on one of your
first days in town). All paints are nontoxic, and the pottery is all dishwasher
proof. Painting time is charged per hour with a minimum time of 1 hour. Items
start at €8 ($9.60). Discounts are available for groups.
14 Crown Alley, Dublin 2. & 01/672-7382. Mon–Sat 11am–6pm. DART: Tara St. Bus: 37, 39, 51, or 51B.
Lambert Puppet Theatre and Museum Kids Founded by master ventrilo-

quist Eugene Lambert, this 300-seat suburban theater presents puppet shows
designed to delight audiences both young and young at heart. During intermis-
sion you can browse in the puppet museum or look for a take-home puppet in
the shop.
5 Clifden Lane, Monkstown, County Dublin. & 01/280-0974. www.lambertpuppettheatre.com. No box
office; call for same-day reservations. Admission €9.50 ($11) adults, €8.50 ($10) children. Shows Sat–Sun
3:30pm. DART: Salthill. Bus: 7, 7A, or 8.
ORGANIZED TOURS
BUS TOURS
The city bus company, Dublin Bus (& 01/873-4222; www.dublinbus.ie), oper-
ates four different tours, all of which depart from the Dublin Bus office at 59
Upper O’Connell St., Dublin 1. Free pickup from many hotels is available for
morning tours. You can buy your ticket from the bus driver or book in advance
at the Dublin Bus office or at the Dublin Tourism ticket desk on Suffolk Street.
Kids Family Favorites
There is so much for families to see and do in Dublin that it’s hard to
know where to begin, but here are a few child- and parent-tested
favorites:
Dublin’s parks give families on the go a respite from the city’s
ruckus. In Merrion Square and St. Stephen’s Green, you will find lawns
for picnicking, ducks for feeding, playgrounds for swinging, and gar-
dens for viewing. Horse-loving youngsters will especially enjoy taking
a family carriage tour around the parks (see “Organized Tours,”
below).
West of Dublin’s city center, the vast Phoenix Park entices visitors
and locals alike (see “The Top Attractions,” earlier in this section).
Phoenix Park is home to the Dublin Zoo (see above), myriad trails,
amazing trees, sports fields, playgrounds, and herds of lovely free-
roaming deer. You will discover mansions, castles, and many secret
gardens. Ice-cream vendors and teahouses spring up in all the right
places to keep you going. Those weary of walking can take a trail ride
through the park thanks to the nearby Ashtown Riding Stables (see
section 6, “The Great Outdoors”).
If a day with Vikings appeals to your family, don’t miss Dublin’s
Viking Adventure (see below) or the lively Viking Splash Tour in a
reconditioned World War II amphibious “duck” vehicle. You’ll see
Dublin from land and water with a Viking tour guide who will keep the
whole family dry and well entertained (see “Organized Tours,” below).
Interactive creative activities for families can be found in the Tem-
ple Bar area. The Ark (see above) offers unique arts classes and cultural
experiences for children, while Hey! Doodle Doodle (see above) is a
paint-it-yourself pottery studio for the whole family.
Day excursions out of town are great fun, especially when there are
beaches to run on and treasures to discover. North of the city is the
Malahide Castle Demesne (see “Dublin’s Northern Suburbs” under
“Side Trips from Dublin,” later in this chapter). This great estate fea-
tures not only the beautiful Malahide Castle but also the fascinating
Fry Model Railway exhibit, a display of exquisite antique dollhouses
The 75-minute guided Dublin City Tour operates on a hop-on, hop-off

basis, connecting 10 major points of interest, including museums, art galleries,
churches and cathedrals, libraries, and historic sites. Rates are €13 ($15) for
adults, €6 ($7.20) for children under 14, and €17 ($21) for a family of four.
Tours operate daily from 9:30am to 6:30pm.
The 2-hour-15-minute Dublin Ghost Bus is an evening tour, departing
Tuesday to Friday at 8pm and Saturday and Sunday at 7 and 9:30pm. The tour
highlights Dublin’s troubled history of felons, fiends, and phantoms. You’ll see
haunted houses, learn of Dracula’s Dublin origins, and even get a crash course
in body snatching. Fares are €22 ($27) for adults only (not recommended for
under-14s).
and toys at Tara’s Palace, acres of parkland, playgrounds, and picnic

areas.
The towns south of Dublin are best explored by DART light rail from
the city center. You might stop in Monkstown to see a puppet show at
the famous Lambert Puppet Theatre and Museum (see above), or, if
the kids need a little seaside adventure, go on a few more stops to the
charming heritage village of Dalkey. The Ferryman of Coliemore Har-
bor (see “Dublin’s Southern Suburbs” under “Side Trips from Dublin,”
later in this chapter), just a 10-minute walk from the train, can take
the family out to explore Dalkey Island and return you to shore. After
your adventure, you can reward your daring with a creamy soft-serve
ice-cream cone in the village. The park at the top of Dalkey Hill offers
a memorable view of the town and bay beyond.
One stop after Dalkey on the DART lies the long pebbled beach of
Killiney. This is just the place to find the perfect stone for your family
collection or to take a beachcombing stroll along the strand. Farther
on down the line is the seaside resort town of Bray. Irish water crea-
tures, from starfish to sharks, can be found in the National Sea Life
Centre (see chapter 5, section 1, on County Wicklow, for a full listing).
Along with the aquarium, Bray also sports arcades, games, and other
family amusements along its boardwalk. If you get to Bray with
energy and daylight to spare, the hike up Bray Head will give you a
spectacular view of the Dublin coastline. In season the purple heather
and yellow gorse are stunning, and you might see rabbits inquiring
around the bushes.
Even with so much out there for families to do together, there may
be some events—a romantic dinner, perhaps—to which you’d rather
not bring the kids. So where do you turn for a babysitter? Dublin par-
ents swear by Minder Finders (www.minderfinders.ie), a clued-in
agency that uses only certified child minders (many are former nannies
or teachers) who arrive armed with a bag full of kid-friendly activities.
Each sitter is matched with your kids’ ages and interests in mind, to
alleviate any “new babysitter” jitters.
The 3-hour Coast and Castle Tour departs daily at 10am, traveling up the
north coast to Malahide and Howth. Fares, which include free admission to
Malahide Castle, are €20 ($24) for adults, €10 ($12) for children under 14.
The 3-hour-45-minute South Coast Tour departs daily at 11am and 2pm,
traveling south through the seaside town of Dun Laoghaire, through the upscale
“Irish Riviera” villages of Dalkey and Killiney, and farther south to visit the
Avoca Handweavers in County Wicklow. Fares are €20 ($24) for adults, €10
($12) for children under 14.
Gray Line (& 01/605-7705; www.guidefriday.com), the world’s largest
sightseeing organization, operates its own hop-on, hop-off city tour, covering all
the same major sights as the Dublin Bus’s Dublin City Tour. The tours are iden-
tical, so there’s no reason to pay more for Gray Line.
Kids Horse-Drawn-Carriage Tours

You can tour Dublin in style in a handsomely outfitted horse-drawn car-
riage with a driver who will comment on the sights as you travel the city’s
streets and squares. To arrange a ride, consult one of the drivers stationed
with carriages at the Grafton Street side of St. Stephen’s Green. Rides
range from a short swing around the green to an extensive half-hour
Georgian tour or an hour-long Old City tour. It’s slightly touristy, but kids
(and romantics) love it.
Rides are available on a first-come, first-served basis from approxi-
mately April to October (weather permitting) and will run you between
€15 and €50 ($18–$60) for one to four passengers, depending on the
duration of the ride.
The first tours leave at 10am from 14 Upper O’Connell St., and at 10am from
the Dublin Tourism Center on Suffolk Street, Dublin 2, and run every 10 to 15
minutes thereafter. The last departures are 4pm from Suffolk Street, 4:30pm
from O’Connell Street. You can also join the tour at any of a number of pickup
points along the route and buy your ticket from the driver. Gray Line’s Dublin
city tour costs €14 ($17) for adults, €12 ($14) for seniors and students, €5
($6) for children, and €32 ($39) for families.
Gray Line also offers a range of full-day excursions from Dublin to such
nearby sights as Glendalough, Newgrange, and Powerscourt. Adult fares for
their other tours range from €20 to €30 ($24–$36).
HELICOPTER TOURS
Want a bird’s-eye view of Dublin’s fair city? First Flight Aviation Ltd., Dublin,
Helicopter Centre NSC, Cloghran, County Dublin (& 1800/471147 toll-free
or 01/890-0222; www.firstflight.ie), offers 20-minute helicopter tours over the
center city, with more distant views of Dublin Bay and the north and south
coastlines. The cost is from €150 ($181) per person.
L A N D & W AT E R T O U R S
The immensely popular Viking Splash Tour (& 01/707-6000; www.
vikingsplashtours.com) is an especially fun way to see Dublin. Aboard a recon-
ditioned World War II amphibious landing craft, or “duck,” this tour starts on
land (from Bull Alley St. beside St. Patrick’s Cathedral) and eventually splashes
into the Grand Canal. Passengers wear horned Viking helmets (a reference to the
original settlers of the Dublin area) and are encouraged to issue war cries at
appropriate moments. One of the ducks even has bullet holes as evidence of its
military service. Tours depart roughly every half-hour every day 9:30am to 5pm
and last an hour and 15 minutes. It costs €14 ($17) for adults, €8 ($9.60) for
children under 12, and €47 ($57) for a family of five.
WALKING TOURS
Small and compact, Dublin lends itself to walking tours. If you prefer to set off
on your own, the Dublin Tourism Office, St. Andrew’s Church, Suffolk Street,
Dublin 2, has been stellar in the development of self-guided walking tours
around Dublin. To date, four tourist trails have been mapped out and sign-
posted throughout the city: Old City, Georgian Heritage, Cultural Heritage,
and Rock ’n Stroll/Music Theme. For each trail, the tourist office has produced
a handy booklet that maps out the route and provides commentary about each
place along the trail.
If you’d like some guidance, some historical background, or just some com-
pany, you might want to consider one of the following options.
Historical Walking Tours of Dublin Value This award-winning outfit
has recently expanded its repertoire to include six terrific introductory walks, all
2-hour primers on Dublin’s historic landmarks, from medieval walls and Viking
remains around Wood Quay to Christ Church, to the architectural splendors of
Georgian Dublin, to highlights of Irish history. All guides are history graduates
of Trinity College, and participants are encouraged to ask questions. Tours
assemble just inside the front gate of Trinity College; no reservations are needed.
From Trinity College. & 01/878-0227. www.historicalinsights.ie. Tickets €10 ($12) adults, €8 ($9.60) sen-
iors and students. May–Sept Mon–Fri 11am and 3pm, Sun 11am, noon, and 3pm; Oct–Apr Fri–Sun noon.
Literary Pub Crawl Walking in the footsteps of Joyce, Behan, Beckett, Shaw,
Kavanagh, and other Irish literary greats, this guided tour, winner of the “Liv-
ing Dublin Award,” visits a number of Dublin’s most famous pubs with literary
connections. Actors provide humorous performances and commentary between
stops. Throughout the night there is a Literary Quiz with prizes for the winners.
The tour assembles nightly at 7:30pm and Sunday at noon, upstairs at the Duke
Pub on Duke Street (off Grafton St.).
37 Exchequer St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-5602. www.dublinpubcrawl.com. Tickets €11 ($13) per person.
Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl This tour explores and samples the
traditional music scene, and the price includes a songbook. Two professional
musicians, who sing as you make your way from one famous pub to another in
Temple Bar, lead the tour. The evening is touristy, but the music is good and
thankfully free from clichés. It lasts 21⁄2 hours. The “crawl” better describes the
way back to your hotel.
Leaves from Oliver St. John Gogarty pub and restaurant, 57–58 Fleet St. (at Anglesea St.), Temple Bar.
& 01/478-0193. Tickets €10 ($12) adults, €8 ($9.60) students and seniors. Mid-May to Oct daily 7:30pm;
Nov and Feb to mid-May Fri–Sat 7:30pm. Tickets on sale at 7pm or in advance from Dublin Tourist Office.
Walk Macabre The Trapeze Theatre Company offers this 90-minute walk
past the homes of famous writers around Merrion Square, St. Stephen’s Green,
and Merrion Row, while reconstructing old scenes of murder and intrigue. The
tour includes reenactments from some of the darker pages of Yeats, Joyce, Bram
Stoker, and Oscar Wilde. This one would be rated “R” for violent imagery, so
it’s not for children or light sleepers. Advance booking is essential. Tours leave
from the main gates of St. Stephen’s Green.
& 087/677-1512 or 087/271-1346. Tickets €12 ($14) adults, €10 ($12) students. Daily 7:30pm.
The Zosimus Experience This is the latest rage on the walking-tour cir-
cuit. Its creators call it a “cocktail mix” of ghosts, murderous tales, horror sto-
ries, humor, circus, history, street theater, and whatever’s left, all within the
precincts of medieval Dublin. With the blind and aging Zosimus as your story-
teller, you help guide him down the ascetic alleyways. It’s essential to book in
advance, when you’ll receive the where (outside the pedestrian gate of Dublin
Castle, opposite the Olympia Theatre) and the when (time varies according to
nightfall). The experience lasts approximately 11⁄2 hours.
28 Fitzwilliam Lane, Dublin 2. & 01/661-8646. www.zozimus.com. €10 ($12) per person. Daily at nightfall,
by appointment.
6 The Great Outdoors

BEACHES Dublin has a good selection of fine beaches accessible by either city
bus or DART, since the tramway follows the coast from Howth, north of the city,
to Bray, south of the city in County Wicklow. Some popular beaches include
Dollymount, 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) away; Sutton, 11km (7 miles) away; Howth,
15km (9 miles) away; and Portmarnock and Malahide, each 11km (7 miles)
away. In addition, the southern suburb of Dun Laoghaire, 11km (7 miles) away,
offers a beach (at Sandycove) and a long bayfront promenade that’s ideal for
strolling in the sea air. For more details, inquire at the Dublin Tourism Office.
BIRD-WATCHING The many estuaries, salt marshes, sand flats, and islands
near Dublin Bay provide a varied habitat for a number of species. Rockabill
Island, off the coast at Skerries, is home to an important colony of roseate terns;
there is no public access to the island, but the birds can be seen from the shore.
Rogerstown and Malahide estuaries, on the north side of Dublin, are winter-
ing grounds for large numbers of brent geese, ducks, and waders. Sandymount
Strand, on Dublin’s south side, has a vast intertidal zone; around dusk in July
and August, you can often see large numbers of terns, including visiting roseate
terns from Rockabill Island.
But for top birding and convenient location, your all-around best bet is a bird
sanctuary called Bull Island, also known as the North Bull, which lies just north
of Dublin city harbor. Actually, it’s a misnomer—not an island, but rather a
3km (2-mile) spit of land connected to the mainland by a bridge. It comprises
dunes, a salt marsh, and extensive intertidal flats on the side facing the main-
land. Because of this unique environment, the North Bull attracts thousands of
seabirds—nearly 200 different species have been recorded, and up to 40,000
birds shelter and nest here. In winter these figures are boosted by tens of thou-
sands of visiting migrants from the Arctic Circle, as well as North American
spoonbills, little egrets, and sandpipers. Together, they all make a delightfully
deafening racket. A visitor center is open daily 10:15am to 4:30pm.
FISHING The greater Dublin area offers a wide range of opportunities for
freshwater angling on local rivers, reservoirs, and fisheries. A day’s catch might
include perch, rudd, pike, salmon, sea trout, brown trout, or freshwater eel. The
Irish Tourist Board operates a good website dedicated to fishing (www.angling.
travel.ie); just run the search engine for County Dublin and out will pop pos-
sibilities ranging from angling for brown trout with the River Dodder Anglers’
Club (& 01/298-2112) in southwest County Dublin to sea fishing on Charles
Weston’s 11m (35-ft.) ketch (& 01/843-6239) off the shores of Malahide, just
north of the city. In addition, the Dublin Angling Initiative, Balnagowan,
Mobhi Boreen, Glasnevin, Dublin 9 (& 01/837-9209), offers a guide—the
Dublin Freshwater Angling Guide, available for €2 ($2.40)—to tell you every-
thing you’ll need to know about local fishing.
GOLF Dublin is one of the world’s great golfing capitals. A quarter of Ire-
land’s courses—including five of the top 10—lie within an hour’s drive of the
city. Visitors are welcome, but be sure to phone ahead and make a reservation.
The following four courses—two parkland and two links—are among the best
18-hole courses in the Dublin area.
Elm Park Golf Club , Nutley Lane, Donnybrook, Dublin 4 (& 01/269-
3438), is in the residential, privileged south side of Dublin. The beautifully
manicured parkland par-69 course is especially popular with visitors because it
T H E G R E AT O U T D O O R S 151
is within 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) of the city center and close to the Jurys, Berkeley
Court, and Four Seasons hotels. Greens fees are €80 ($96) on weekdays, €100
($120) on weekends.
Portmarnock Golf Club , Portmarnock, County Dublin (& 01/846-
2968; www.portmarnockgolfclub.ie), is one of the finest links courses in
Europe, not to mention Ireland. The course is located 16km (10 miles) from the
city center on Dublin’s north side, on a spit of land between the Irish Sea and a
tidal inlet. Opened in 1894, the par-72 championship course has been the scene
of leading tournaments, including the Dunlop Masters (1959, 1965), Canada
Cup (1960), Alcan (1970), St. Andrews Trophy (1968), and many an Irish
Open. Greens fees are €165 ($199) on weekdays, €190 ($229) on weekends.
Royal Dublin Golf Club , Bull Island, Dollymount, Dublin 3 (& 01/
833-6346; www.theroyaldublingolfclub.com), is often compared to St. Andrews.
The century-old par-73 championship seaside links is on an island in Dublin
Bay, 4.8km (3 miles) northeast of the city center. Like Portmarnock, it has been
rated among the world’s top courses and has played host to several Irish Opens.
The home base of Ireland’s legendary champion Christy O’Connor, Sr., the
Royal Dublin is well known for its fine bunkers, close lies, and subtle trappings.
Greens fees are €120 ($145) daily.
St. Margaret’s Golf Club , Skephubble, St. Margaret’s, County Dublin
(& 01/864-0400; www.st-margarets.net), is a stunning, par-72 parkland course
4.8km (3 miles) west of Dublin Airport. Though one of Dublin’s newest cham-
pionship golf venues, St. Margaret’s has already hosted three international tour-
naments, including the Irish Open in 2004. Greens fees are €75 ($90) Monday
to Thursday, €90 ($108) Friday to Sunday.
Tips These Boots Are Made for Hiking . . .
Does Dublin leave you yearning for the great outdoors? Then get out
of town with Dirty Boots Treks (& 01/623-6785; www.dirtyboots
treks.com), a fantastic, brand-new outfit offering full-day excursions
into the mountains south of Dublin. Dirty Boots has thought of every-
thing. After a 9am pickup at the gates of Trinity College, your group
(maximum eight people) will be transported in a 4×4 Land Rover into
Wicklow Mountains National Park, deep in “the Garden of Ireland.”
Highlights of the easy-to-moderate hike might include spotting a herd
of wild deer or taking a dip in a mountain stream. Treks are typically 4
to 5 hours of trail walking, with plenty of stops for conversation,
photo opportunities, admiring the scenery, and a homemade picnic
lunch. The day is capped off with a drink in a local country pub before
returning to Dublin around 6pm. Later on, you can download photos
from your trek from the Dirty Boots website and send them to friends
back home. A full-day trek, including round-trip transportation and
lunch (but not after-trek pub stop) costs €45 ($54) for adults, €39 ($47)
for students. Didn’t pack your hiking gear? No worries. For €9 ($11),
Dirty Boots will provide a trekking backpack with hiking boots, gaiters,
and waterproofs—all in your size. It’s essential to book ahead, either
by phone or online.
HORSEBACK RIDING For equestrian enthusiasts of any experience level,

almost a dozen riding stables are within easy reach. Prices average about €25
($30) an hour, with or without instruction. Many stables offer guided trail rid-
ing, as well as courses in show jumping, dressage, prehunting, eventing, and
cross-country riding. For trail riding through Phoenix Park, Ashtown Riding
Stables (& 01/838-3807) is ideal. They’re located in the village of Ashtown,
adjoining the park and only 10 minutes by car or bus (no. 37, 38, 39, or 70)
from the city center. Among the other riding centers within easy reach of down-
town Dublin are Calliaghstown Riding Centre, Calliaghstown, Rathcoole,
County Dublin (& 01/458-8322), and Carrickmines Equestrian Centre,
Glenamuck Road, Foxrock, Dublin 18 (& 01/295-5990).
WALKING For casual walking, the Royal Canal and Grand Canal, which
skirt the north and south city centers, respectively, are ideal for seeing both the
city and neighboring areas. Both have been restored as marked trails for serious
walkers, so you can’t get lost. And because they stick to the towpaths of the
canals, they are flat and easy. Moreover, both routes pass through a range of
small towns and villages that can be used as starting or stopping points. For
more information, contact the Waterways Service at Duchas the Heritage Serv-
ice (& 01/647-6000).
The walk from Bray (the southern terminus of the DART) to Greystones
along the rocky promontory of Bray Head is a great excursion, with beautiful
views back toward Killiney Bay, Dalkey Island, and Bray. It’s readily accessible
from Dublin. Follow the beachside promenade south through town; at the out-
skirts of town, the promenade turns left and up, beginning the ascent of Bray
Head. Shortly after the ascent begins, a trail branches to the left—this is the
cliff-side walk, which continues another 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) along the coast to
Greystones. From the center of Greystones, a train will take you back to Bray.
This is an easy walk, about 2 hours each way.
Dalkey Hill and Killiney Hill drop steeply into the sea and command great
views of Killiney Bay, Bray Head, and Sugarloaf Mountain. To get there, leave
the Dalkey DART station, head into the center of Dalkey and then south on
Dalkey Avenue (at the post office). About .8km (half a mile) from the post
office, you’ll pass a road ascending through fields on your left—this is the
entrance to the Dalkey Hill Park. From the parking lot, climb a series of steps
to the top of Dalkey Hill; from here you can see the expanse of the bay, the
Wicklow Hills in the distance, and the obelisk topping nearby Killiney Hill. If
you continue on to the obelisk, there is a trail leading from there down on the
seaward side to Vico Road, another lovely place for a seaside walk. It’s about
.8km (half a mile) from the parking lot to Killiney Hill.
WATERSPORTS Certified level-one and level-two instruction and equip-
ment rental for three watersports—kayaking, sailing, and windsurfing—are
available at the Surfdock Centre, Grand Canal Dock Yard, Ringsend, Dublin 4
(& 01/668-3945; fax 01/668-1215; www.surfdock.ie). The center has 17
hectares (42 acres) of enclosed fresh water for its courses. It’s open from June to
September.
7 Spectator Sports
GAELIC SPORTS If your schedule permits, try to get to a Gaelic football or
hurling match—the only indigenously Irish games and two of the fastest-mov-
ing sports in the world. Gaelic football is vaguely a cross between soccer and
SHOPPING 153
American football; you can move the ball with either your hands or feet. Hurl-
ing is a lightning-speed game in which 30 men use heavy sticks to fling a hard
leather ball called a sliotar—think field hockey meets lacrosse. Both amateur
sports are played every weekend throughout the summer at various local fields,
culminating in September with the All-Ireland Finals, the Irish version of the
Super Bowl. For schedules and admission fees, phone the Gaelic Athletic Asso-
ciation, Croke Park, Jones Road, Dublin 3 (& 01/836-3222; www.gaa.ie).
GREYHOUND RACING Watching these lean, swift canines is one of the
leading spectator sports in the Dublin area. Races are held throughout the year
at Shelbourne Park Greyhound Stadium, Southlotts Road, Dublin 4 (& 01/
668-3502), and Harold’s Cross Stadium, 151 Harold’s Cross Rd., Dublin 6
(& 01/497-1081). For a complete schedule and details for races throughout
Ireland, contact Bord na gCon (the Greyhound Board), Limerick (& 061/
315788; www.igb.ie).
HORSE RACING The closest racecourse to the city center is the Leopard-
stown Race Course, off the Stillorgan road (N11), Foxrock, Dublin 18 (& 01/
289-2888; www.leopardstown.com). This modern facility with all-weather glass-
enclosed spectator stands is 9.7km (6 miles) south of the city center. Racing
meets—mainly steeplechases, but also a few flats—are scheduled throughout the
year, two or three times a month.
POLO With the Dublin Mountains as a backdrop, polo is played from May
to mid-September on the green fields of Phoenix Park, on Dublin’s west side.
Matches take place on Wednesday evenings and Saturday and Sunday after-
noons. Admission is free. For full details, contact the All Ireland Polo Club,
Phoenix Park, Dublin 8 (& 01/677-6248), or check the sports pages of the
newspapers.
8 Shopping
Ireland is known the world over for its handmade products and fine craftsman-
ship, and Dublin is a one-stop source for the country’s best wares. Also, due to
Ireland’s wholehearted membership in the European Union, Irish shops are
brimming with imported goods from the Continent. In broad terms (though,
obviously, there are exceptions) most of the trendy shops and upscale designer
stores are located south of the Liffey, while north of the Liffey is a bit more
downscale and serviceable.
Generally, Dublin shops are open from 9am to 6pm Monday to Saturday, and
Thursday until 9pm. Many of the larger shops also have Sunday hours from
noon to 6pm.
The hub of shopping south of the Liffey is Grafton Street, crowned by the
city’s most fashionable department store, Brown Thomas (known simply as BT),
and most exclusive jeweler, Weirs. Sadly, many Irish specialty shops on Grafton
Street have been displaced over the years by British chain shops (Principles,
Jigsaw, Monsoon, Oasis, A–Wear, Next, Boots, Mothercare) so that it now
resembles the average High Street in England. Since it’s pedestrianized, Grafton
Street tends to have a festive atmosphere thanks to street performers and side-
walk artists. But you’ll find better shopping on the smaller streets radiating out
from Grafton—Duke, Dawson, Nassau, and Wicklow—which have more Irish
shops that specialize in small books, handcrafts, jewelry, gifts, and clothing.
A 2-minute walk toward the river brings you to Temple Bar, the hub of
Dublin’s colorful bohemian district and the setting for art and music shops,
vintage-clothing stores, and a host of other increasingly fine and interesting bou-
tiques, cafes, and restaurants.
Major department stores include Arnotts, 12 Henry St., Dublin 1 (& 01/
805-0400); the most exclusive of them all, Brown Thomas, 15–20 Grafton St.,
Dublin 2 (& 01/605-6666); and Clerys, Lower O’Connell Street, Dublin 1
(& 01/878-6000).
Dublin also has several clusters of shops in multistory malls or ground-level
arcades, ideal for indoor shopping on rainy days. These include the ILAC Cen-
tre, off Henry Street, Dublin 1; the Jervis Shopping Centre, off Henry Street,
Dublin 1; and Royal Hibernian Way, 49–50 Dawson St., Dublin 2. Our
favorite of these is the Powerscourt Townhouse, where Grafton Street meets St.
Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, and the St. Stephen’s Green Centre, at the top of
Grafton Street, Dublin 2. You’ll find an American-style cafe on the second floor
that offers free refills of coffee.
ART
Combridge Fine Arts In business for more than 100 years, this shop features
works by modern Irish artists as well as quality reproductions of classic Irish art.
17 S. William St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-4652. www.cfa.ie. DART: Pearse. Bus: 15A, 15B, 15C, 55,
or 83.
Davis Gallery One block north of the Liffey, this shop offers a wide selection
of Irish watercolors and oil paintings, with emphasis on Dublin scenes, wildlife,
and flora. 11 Capel St., Dublin 1. & 01/872-6969. www.liviaarts.com. Bus: 34, 70, or 80.
M. Kennedy and Sons Ltd If you are looking for a souvenir that reflects
Irish art, try this interesting shop, established more than 100 years ago. It’s a
treasure trove of books on Irish artists and works, and it stocks a lovely selection
of fine-art greeting cards, postcards, and bookmarks. There are all types of
artists’ supplies as well, and an excellent art gallery on the upstairs level. 12 Har-
court St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-1740. Bus: 62.
BOOKS
Greene’s Bookshop Ltd. Established in 1843, this shop near Trinity College
is one of Dublin’s treasures for scholarly bibliophiles. It’s chock-full of new and
secondhand books on every topic from religion to the modern novel. The cata-
log of Irish-interest books is issued five to six times a year. 16 Clare St., Dublin 2.
& 01/676-2554. www.greenesbookshop.com. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, or 62.
CERAMICS
Louis Mulcahy The ceramic creations of Louis Mulcahy are internationally
renowned. For years he has been exporting his work throughout Ireland and the
rest of the world from his studio on the Dingle Peninsula. This modest shop
across from the Shelbourne hotel gives him a base in Dublin. In addition to
pottery, he designs furniture, lighting, and hand-painted silk and cotton lamp-
shades. 46 Dawson St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-9311. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
CHINA & CRYSTAL
If you’re specifically looking for Waterford Crystal, don’t bother shopping
around because it has fixed pricing. You’ll find the best selections at Brown
Thomas (Grafton St., Dublin 2), Weirs (Grafton St., Dublin 2), and House of
Ireland (Nassau St., Dublin 2). If brand names aren’t important, check out
other native crystal makers, including Galway, Tipperary, Cavan, and Tyrone.
Don’t forget to get your cash-back forms if you want to reclaim the VAT (see
SHOPPING 155
“Tips on Sightseeing & Shopping,” in chapter 2 for more information on VAT

reclamation).
The China Showrooms Established in 1939, this is Ireland’s oldest china-
and-crystal shop in continuous operation. It’s a one-stop source for fine china
such as Belleek, Aynsley, Royal Doulton, and Rosenthal; hand-cut crystal from
Waterford, Tipperary, and Tyrone; and handmade Irish pottery. Worldwide
shipping is available. 32–33 Abbey St., Dublin 1. & 01/878-6211. www.chinashowrooms.ie.
DART: Connolly. Bus: 27B or 53A.
Dublin Crystal Glass Company This is Dublin’s own distinctive hand-cut-
crystal business, founded in 1764 and revived in 1968. Visitors are welcome to
browse in the factory shop and see the glass being made and engraved. Brookfield
Terrace, Carysfort Ave., Blackrock, County Dublin. & 01/288-7932. www.dublincrystal.ie. DART:
Blackrock. Bus: 114.
CRAFT EMPORIUMS
Craft Centre of Ireland Perched on the top floor of a popular shopping mall,
this place offers an exquisite collection of ceramics, wood turning, glassware, and
more—all by top Irish artisans. Unit 214 (top floor), St. Stephen’s Green Centre, Dublin 2.
& 01/475-4526. Bus: All cross-city buses.
Powerscourt Townhouse Centre Housed in a restored 1774 town house,
this four-story complex consists of a central sky-lit courtyard and more than 60
boutiques, craft shops, art galleries, snack bars, wine bars, and restaurants. The
wares include all kinds of crafts, antiques, paintings, prints, ceramics, leather
work, jewelry, clothing, hand-dipped chocolates, and farmhouse cheeses. 59 S.
William St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-4144. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, 16A, 19A, 20B, 22A, 55, or 83.
Tower Craft Design Centre Alongside the Grand Canal, this beautifully
restored 1862 sugar refinery now houses a nest of craft workshops where you can
watch the artisans at work. The merchandise ranges from fine-art greeting cards
and hand-marbled stationery to pewter, ceramics, pottery, knitwear, hand-
painted silks, copper-plate etchings, all-wool wall hangings, silver and gold
Celtic jewelry, and heraldic gifts. Pearse St. (off Grand Canal Quay), Dublin 2. & 01/677-
5655. Limited free parking. DART: Pearse. Bus: 2 or 3.
Whichcraft If you’re serious about taking home quality, contemporary Irish
crafts, this is an essential stop for finding out what the best contemporary arti-
sans from all over Ireland are doing. All kinds of crafts are represented, from
wooden bowls to basketry to rocking horses to pottery to jewelry to ironmon-
gery to batiks. There’s a second Whichcraft shop on Cow’s Lane in the bur-
geoning Old City. 5 Castlegate, Lord Edward St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-9371. Bus: 50, 54A,
56A, 65, 65A, 77, 77A, 123, or 150.
FASHION
See also “Knitwear,” below.
M E N ’ S FA S H I O N
Alias Tom This was Dublin’s best small, men’s designer shop until BT2
opened. The emphasis is Italian (Gucci, Prada, Armani), but the range covers
other chic designers from the rest of Europe and America. Prices are exorbitant.
Duke House, Duke St., Dublin 2 & 01/671 5443. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
BT2 This offshoot of Brown Thomas, located across the street on Grafton, is
the best shop in Dublin for the hippest designer labels for both men and
women. The look is sportier, more casual, and geared to the younger, hopelessly
cool set. The prices are nearly as crazy as in BT. Grafton St., Dublin 2 & 01/605-6666.
Bus: All cross-city buses.
Kevin & Howlin Open for more than a half-century, this is the best place in
town for hand-woven Donegal tweed garments. The selection includes suits,
overcoats, jackets, scarves, vests, and myriad hats—everything from Patch caps
and Gatsby fedoras to Sherlock Holmes–style deerstalkers and the ubiquitous
Paddy hats. 31 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-0257. DART: Pearse. Bus: 7, 8, 10, 11, or 46A.
Louis Copeland and Sons Behind a distinctive old-world shop front, this is
where well-dressed insiders, from Pierce Brosnan to Prime Minister Bertie
Ahern, buy their suits. Louis Copeland is a tailor known for high-quality work
in made-to-measure suits, but also carries ready-to-wear men’s suits, coats, and
shirts. The look here is conservative and classic, not trendy. 39–41 Capel St., Dublin 1.
& 01/872-1600. Bus: 34, 70, or 80. Branches at 30 Pembroke St., Dublin 2 (& 01/661-0110);
18 Wicklow St., Dublin 2 (& 01/677-7038).
W O M E N ’ S FA S H I O N
BT2 Brown Thomas’s sister shop, located right across the street, is the best
place in town for A-list designer labels. BT2 targets a younger but no less label-
conscious crowd than BT—think style-obsessed Trustifarians and yuppies and
you’ve got the clientele in a nutshell. Grafton St., Dublin 2. & 01/605-6666. Bus: All
cross-city buses.
Claire Garvey The brightest luminary in Old City is a 34-year-old Dublin
native with a talent for creating romantic, dramatic, and feminine clothing with
Celtic flair. A favorite designer of Irish divas Enya and Sinéad O’Connor, Gar-
vey transforms hand-dyed velvet and silk into sumptuous garments that beg to
be worn on special occasions. Her one-of-a-kind bijou handbags are a white-hot
fashion accessory. 6 Cow’s Lane, Old City, Dublin 8. & 01/671-7287. Bus: 50, 54A, 56A, 65,
65A, 77, 77A, 123, or 150.
Design Centre This is the city’s best one-stop shop if you want to find all of
Ireland’s hottest contemporary designers—including Louise Kennedy, Mary
Gregory, Karen Millen, Mary Grant, and Sharon Hoey—under one roof. Prices
are generally high, but there are good bargains to be had during sale seasons and
on the seconds rack. Powerscourt Townhouse, Dublin 2. & 01/679-5863. DART: Pearse. Bus:
10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
Jenny Vander This is where actresses and supermodels come to find extraor-
dinary and stylish antique clothing. There’s plenty of jeweled frocks, vintage day
wear, and stunning costume jewelry filling the clothing racks and display cases.
Overall, it’s a fabulous place to shop for one-of-a-kind pieces. 20 Georges St. Arcade,
S. Great Georges St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-0406. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
Louise Kennedy This glamorous and sophisticated designer is a longtime
favorite of Meryl Streep, British first lady Cherie Blair, and Carol Vorderman,
and recently Dublin native and popstress/actress/model Samantha Mumba has
signed on to be the body and face of Kennedy’s sumptuous collection. Her ele-
gant showroom carries her clothing, accessories, and home collections, as well as
Philip Treacy hats, Lulu Guinness handbags, Lindley furniture, and other items
of perfect taste. 56 Merrion Sq., Dublin 2. & 01/662-0056. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, or 8.
GIFTS & IRISH KEEPSAKES
House of Ireland This shop opposite Trinity College is a happy blend of
European and Irish products, from Waterford and Belleek to Wedgwood and
SHOPPING 157
Lladró. It also carries high-quality tweeds, linens, knitwear, Celtic jewelry,

mohair capes, shawls, kilts, blankets, and dolls. 37–38 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-
1111. www.houseofireland.com. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 15A, 15B, 46, 55, 62, 63, 83, or 84.
Kilkenny Design Centre A sister operation of the Blarney Woollen Mills
(see “Knitwear,” below), this modern multilevel shop is also a showplace for
original Irish designs and quality products, including pottery, glass, candles,
woolens, pipes, knitwear, jewelry, books, and prints. The pleasant cafe is ideal
for coffee and pastries or a light lunch. 6–10 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7066.
DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 15A, 15B, 46, 55, 62, 63, 83, or 84.
HERALDRY
Heraldic Artists For more than 20 years, this shop has been known for help-
ing visitors locate their family roots. In addition to tracing surnames, it sells all
the usual heraldic items, from family crest parchments, scrolls, and mahogany
wall plaques to books on researching ancestry. 3 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-7020.
www.heraldicartists.com. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 15A, 15B, 46, 55, 62, 63, 83, or 84.
House of Names As its name implies, this company offers a wide selection
of Irish, British, and European family names affixed—along with their attendant
crests and mottoes—to plaques, shields, parchments, jewelry, glassware, and
sweaters. 26 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-7287. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 15A, 15B, 46,
55, 62, 63, 83, or 84.
JEWELRY
DESIGNyard The ground-floor studio of this beautiful emporium showcases
exquisite, often affordable work from the very best contemporary Irish jewelry
designers. Upstairs in the same building, the Crafts Council Gallery displays and
sells Irish-made crafts, including furniture, ceramics, glass, lighting, and textiles.
All exhibited pieces are for sale, and you may also make an appointment to com-
mission an original work of Irish applied art and design. 12 E. Essex St., Temple Bar,
Dublin 2. & 01/677-8453. DART: Tara St. Bus: 21A, 46A, 46B, 51B, 51C, 68, 69, or 86.
Weir and Sons Established in 1869, this is the granddaddy of Dublin’s fine
jewelry shops. It sells new and antique jewelry as well as silver, china, and crys-
tal. There is a second branch at the ILAC Centre, Henry Street (& 01/872-
9588). 96 Grafton St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-9678. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
KNITWEAR
Blarney Woollen Mills This branch of the highly successful Cork-based
enterprise stands opposite the south side of Trinity College. Known for its com-
petitive prices, it stocks a wide range of woolen knitwear made at the home base
in Blarney, as well as Irish-made crystal, china, pottery, and souvenirs. Always
check the label or ask a sales assistant to verify whether a sweater is hand-knit or
made by machine. 21–23 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/671-0068. www.blarney.ie. DART:
Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 15A, 15B, 46, 55, 62, 63, 83, or 84.
Brown Thomas This is the only place in town to find Dubliner Lainey
Keogh’s creative and sensuous knitwear—a far cry from the chunky Aran
sweaters you see everywhere else. The creator of what Vogue magazine calls
“amazingly organic knitwear” had her first, rapturously received show in 1997,
and has been a staple in the closets of Hollywood celebrities such as Demi
Moore and Isabella Rosselini ever since. She works mostly with cashmere and
her pieces are predominantly made by expert hand-knitters, so prices are high.
Grafton St., Dublin 2. & 01/605-6666. Bus: All cross-city buses.
Tips New Kid on the Block: The Old City
Shoppers take note: Dublin’s latest “it” shopping district is Old City,
located just west of Temple Bar and roughly comprising the area
between Castle Street and Fishamble Street. Though still under devel-
opment, there’s already a good mix of hip fashion, modern interior
design, crafts, and leisure shops, as well as a bakery, Internet cafe, and
a hair salon. The center of the action is a cobbled, pedestrianized street
called Cow’s Lane, which links Lord Edward Street with Essex Street
West. Granted, the name may not immediately conjure up a cool
image, but it’s become a destination in itself for style mongers who
like to get their retail therapy away from the crush of Grafton and
Henry streets. On Cow’s Lane, don’t miss Whichcraft (see “Craft Empo-
riums,” above), contemporary pieces for the home at 2cooldesign,
postwar home accessories from 20th Century Furniture, and the latest
looks in glasses at the swish London eyewear outlet Kirk Originals.
North of the Liffey, the O’Connell Street area is the main inner-city
shopping nucleus, along with its nearby offshoots—Abbey Street for
crafts, Moore Street for its open-air market, and most notably, Henry
Street, a pedestrian-only strip of chain stores, department stores, and
indoor malls such as the ILAC Centre and the Jervis Shopping Centre.
Roches Store, on Henry Street, is a great place to find Irish linens at
lower prices.
Dublin Woollen Mills Since 1888, this shop has been a leading source of
Aran sweaters, vests, hats, jackets, and scarves, as well as lamb’s-wool sweaters,
kilts, ponchos, and tweeds at competitive prices. As at Blarney Woollen Mills,
always verify whether a sweater is hand-knit. The shop is on the north side of
the River Liffey next to the Ha’penny Bridge. There is a 5% discount for those
with current international student cards. 41–42 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1. & 01/
677-5014. www.woollenmills.com. Bus: 70 or 80.
Monaghan’s Established in 1960 and operated by two generations of the
Monaghan family, this store is a prime source of cashmere sweaters for men and
women. It boasts the best selection of colors, sizes, and styles anywhere in Ire-
land. Other items include traditional Aran knits, lamb’s wool, crochet, and Shet-
land wool products. There’s another store at 4–5 Royal Hibernian Way, off
Dawson Street (& 01/679-4451). 15–17 Grafton Arcade, Grafton St., Dublin 2. & 01/
677-0823. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
MARKETS
Blackrock Market More than 60 vendors run stalls that offer everything
from gourmet cheese to vintage clothing in an indoor/outdoor setting. As at
most markets, prices range from very reasonable to highway robbery. Open Sat-
urday from 11am to 5:30pm and Sunday from noon to 5:30pm, including hol-
idays. 19a Main St., Blackrock. & 01/283-3522. DART: Blackrock. Bus: 5, 7, 7A, 8, 17, 45, or 114.
Book Market Temple Bar This weekend market has enough of everything
to make for excellent browsing—old and new titles, classics and contemporary
novels, science fiction and mysteries, serious biographies, and pulp fiction.
DUBLIN AFTER DARK 159
Open Saturday and Sunday only, from 11am to 4pm. Temple Bar Sq., Dublin 2. No
phone. Bus: 50, 50A, 54, 56, or 77.
Food Market Temple Bar Like Moore Street, this is another great picnic
shopping spot. Everything here is organic, from fruits and veggies to a delicious
selection of homemade cheeses, chutneys, breads, and jams. Open Saturday and
Sunday only, from 10am to 5pm. Meeting House Sq., Dublin 2. No phone. Bus: 50, 50A,
54, 56, or 77.
Moore Street Market For a walk into the past, the Moore Street Market is
full of street-side barrow vendors plus plenty of local color and chatter. It’s the
city’s principal open-air fruit, flower, fish, and vegetable market and a great stop
for stocking up on picnic provisions. Open daily from 10am to 4pm. Moore St.,
Dublin 1. No phone. DART: Connolly. Bus: 25, 34, 37, 38A, 66A, or 67A.
Mother Red Caps Market In the heart of Old Dublin, this enclosed mar-
ket calls itself the “mother of all markets.” The stalls offer the usual garage-sale
junk mixed in with the occasional treasure (some more in hiding than others),
including antiques, used books, coins, silver, handcrafts, leather products,
knitwear, music tapes, and furniture. There’s even a fortuneteller! The pickings
can be hit-or-miss, but do make a point of popping by the Ryefield Foods stall
(farm-made cheeses, baked goods, marmalades, and jams). Open Friday to Sun-
day only, from 10am to 5:30pm. Back Lane (off High St.), Dublin 8. & 01/453-8306. Bus:
21A, 78A, or 78B.
TRADITIONAL IRISH MUSIC

The Celtic Note Second only to Claddagh Records, this is a terrific source of
recorded Irish music in Dublin. The staff is experienced and helpful, and you
can listen to a CD before purchasing it. You’ll pay full price here, but you’re
likely to find what you’re looking for. 14–15 Nassau St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-4157.
www.celticnote.ie. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 15A, 15B, 46, 55, 62, 63, 83, or 84.
Claddagh Records Renowned among insiders in traditional Irish music cir-
cles, this is where to find “the genuine article” in traditional music and perhaps
discover a new favorite. Not only is the staff knowledgeable and enthusiastic
about turning you on to new artists, but they’re able to tell you which venues
and pubs are hosting the best sessions of live traditional music that week. Dame
St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-3664. www.claddaghrecords.com. Bus: 50, 50A, 54, 56, or 77.
9 Dublin After Dark

A more appropriate title for this section might be “Dublin Almost Dark,”
because during high season, Dublin’s nightlife takes place mostly in daylight.
Situated roughly 53 degrees north of the equator, Dublin in June gets really dark
only as the pubs are closing. Night, then, is just a state of mind.
One general fact to keep in mind concerning Dublin’s nightlife is that there
are very few fixed points. Apart from a handful of established institutions, ven-
ues come and go, change character, open their doors to ballet one night and
cabaret the next. In Dublin and the Event Guide offer the most thorough and
up-to-date listings. They can be found on almost any magazine stand.
The award-winning website of the Irish Times (www.ireland.com) offers a
“what’s on” daily guide to cinema, theater, music, and whatever else you’re up
for. The Dublin Events Guide, at www.dublinevents.com, also provides a com-
prehensive listing of the week’s entertainment possibilities. Time Out now cov-
ers Dublin as well; check their website at www.timeout.com/dublin.
Advance bookings for most large concerts, plays, and so forth can be made
through Ticketmaster Ireland (& 01/886-0996; www.ticketmaster.ie), with
ticket centers in most HMV stores, as well as at the Dublin Tourism Centre, Suf-
folk Street, Dublin 2.
THE PUB SCENE
The mainstay of Dublin social life is unquestionably the pub. More than 1,000
specimens spread throughout the city, on every street, at every turn. In Ulysses,
James Joyce referred to the puzzle of trying to cross Dublin without passing a
pub; his characters quickly abandoned the quest as fruitless, preferring to sam-
ple a few in their path. You will need no assistance finding a pub, but here are
recommendations of some of the city’s most distinctive.
P U B S F O R C O N V E R S AT I O N & AT M O S P H E R E
Ba Mizu This new bar draws the young, glamorous set. The clientele includes
a regular smattering of models (both male and female) and trendy urbanites.
Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, S. William St., Dublin 2. & 01/674-6712.
Davy Byrnes Referred to as a “moral pub” by James Joyce in Ulysses, this
imbibers’ landmark has drawn poets, writers, and literature lovers ever since. It
dates from 1873, when Davy Byrnes first opened the doors. He presided for
more than 50 years, and visitors can still see his likeness on one of the turn-of-
the-20th-century murals hanging over the bar. 21 Duke St. (off Grafton St.), Dublin 2.
& 01/677-5217. www.davybyrnes.com.
Doheny and Nesbitt The locals call this Victorian-style pub simply “Nes-
bitt’s.” The place houses two fine old “snugs”—small rooms behind the main bar
where women could have a drink out of the sight of men in days of old—and a
restaurant. 5 Lower Baggot St., Dublin 2. & 01/676-2945.
The Long Hall This is one of the city’s most photographed pubs, with a beau-
tiful Victorian decor of filigree-edged mirrors, polished dark woods, and tradi-
tional snugs. The hand-carved bar is said to be the longest counter in the city.
51 S. Great George’s St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-1590.
The Mercantile Try for one of the comfy booths in the back of this ultra-
trendy watering hole, which draws a mixed crowd of locals and in-the-know
out-of-towners. Despite being very big, it’s always buzzing and tends to get over-
jammed on weekends, so midweek nights are best. U2 members The Edge and
Larry Mullen are regulars. Dame St., Dublin 2. & 01/679-0522.
Neary’s Adjacent to the back door of the Gaiety Theatre, this celebrated
enclave is a favorite with stage folk and theatergoers. Its trademarks are the pink-
and-gray marble bar and the brass hands that support the globe lanterns adorn-
ing the entrance. 1 Chatham St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7371 or 01/677-8596.
Palace Bar This old charmer is decorated with local memorabilia, cartoons,
and paintings that tell the story of Dublin through the years. 21 Fleet St., Dublin 2.
& 01/677-9290.
River Club Converted from an old merchant’s warehouse, this wine bar–
cum–supper club combines soaring ceilings, an enviable position overlooking
the river, and contemporary furnishings for an overall feeling of easygoing
sophistication. It’s a favorite of Ireland’s film glitterati for a late drink, so don’t
be surprised to spy author-screenwriter Roddy Doyle, Pierce Brosnan, or direc-
tor Jim Sheridan. Ha’penny Theatre, 48 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. & 01/677-2382. www.
riverclub.ie.
Warning Late-Night Crime

Crime in Dublin––and most specifically late-night crime––has been on the
ascent in recent years. What’s most alarming about these aggressions are
the random, senseless acts of violence that can occur on any street in
Dublin after dark. These attacks are often booze-fueled and happen on
streets that are perfectly safe during the day. Be especially on your guard
in the areas around O’Connell Street and Grafton Street after pubs’ clos-
ing time. Never walk back to your hotel alone after this hour.
Ryan’s of Parkgate Street This Victorian gem also houses a fine gourmet
restaurant. You’ll see some of Dublin’s best traditional pub features, including a
metal ceiling, a domed skylight, beveled mirrors, etched glass, brass lamp hold-
ers, a mahogany bar, and four old-style snugs. It’s on the north side of the Lif-
fey, near Phoenix Park. 28 Parkgate St., Dublin 7. & 01/677-6097.
Searson’s This formerly down-at-its-heels rugby pub underwent a face-lift
and has a new lease on life, thanks to hordes of Ballsbridge yupsters who pack
the place every evening after work. The weekday crowd is wall-to-wall suits; Sat-
urdays are more relaxed. Actor Gabriel Byrne is a regular. 42 Upper Baggot St., Dublin
4. & 01/660-0330.
Stag’s Head Mounted stags’ heads and eight stag-themed stained-glass win-
dows dominate the decor, and there are wrought-iron chandeliers, polished
Aberdeen granite, old barrels, skylights, and ceiling-high mirrors. Look for the
stag sign inlaid into the sidewalk. This place is a classic. 1 Dame Court (off Dame St.),
Dublin 2. & 01/679-3701.
PUBS FOR TRADITIONAL & FOLK MUSIC

Brazen Head Sure it’s touristy, but it’s an institution. This brass-filled,
lantern-lit pub claims to be the city’s oldest, and it might very well be, consid-
ering that it was licensed in 1661 and occupies the site of an even earlier tavern
dating from 1198. Nestled on the south bank of the River Liffey, it is at the end
of a cobblestone courtyard and was once the meeting place of Irish freedom
fighters such as Robert Emmet and Wolfe Tone. A full a la carte menu is offered
and traditional music sessions start at 9:30pm nightly. 20 Lower Bridge St., Dublin 8.
& 01/677-9549.
The Castle Inn Situated between Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathe-
dral, this recently rejuvenated bi-level pub exudes an “old city” atmosphere. It
has stone walls, flagstone steps, suits of armor, big stone fireplaces, beamed ceil-
ings, and lots of early Dublin memorabilia. From May to September it is also
the setting for an Irish ceili (traditional music and dance session) and banquet.
5 Lord Edward St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-1122.
Chief O’Neill’s One of the city’s best haunts for gimmick-free traditional
music, in the hotel of the same name. Smithfield Village, Dublin 7. & 01/817-3838.
www.chiefoneills.com. Bus: 25, 25A, 66, 67, or 90.
Mother Red Caps Tavern A former shoe factory in the heart of the Liber-
ties section of the city, this large two-story pub exudes Old Dublin atmosphere.
It has eclectic mahogany and stripped pine furnishings, antiques and curios on
the shelves, and walls lined with old paintings and 19th-century newspaper clip-
pings. On Sunday there is usually a midday session of traditional Irish music;
everyone is invited to bring an instrument and join in. On many nights there is
traditional music on an informal basis or in a concert setting upstairs. Back Lane,
Dublin 8. & 01/453-8306. No cover except for concerts.
O’Donoghue’s Overrated Tucked between St. Stephen’s Green and Merrion
Street, this much-touristed, smoke-filled enclave is widely heralded as the grand-
daddy of traditional music pubs. A spontaneous session is likely to erupt at
almost any time of the day or night. 15 Merrion Row, Dublin 2. & 01/676-2807.
Oliver St. John Gogarty Situated in the heart of Temple Bar and named for
one of Ireland’s literary greats, this pub has an inviting old-world atmosphere,
with shelves of empty bottles, stacks of dusty books, a horseshoe-shaped bar, and
old barrels for seats. There are traditional-music sessions most every night from
9 to 11pm, as well as Saturday at 4:30pm, and Sunday from noon to 2pm. 57–58
Fleet St., Dublin 2. & 01/671-1822.
L AT E - N I G H T P U B S
If you’re still going strong when the pubs shut down (11pm in winter, 11:30pm
in summer), you might want to crawl to a “late-night pub”—one with a loop-
hole allowing it to remain open after hours, perhaps 3am or thereabouts. Late-
nighters for the 18-to-25 set include The Capital, 2 Aungier St., Dublin 2
(& 01/475-7166), Hogans, 35 S. Great George’s St., Dublin 2 (& 01/677-
5904), and the Club Mono (see “Smaller Concert Venues,” later in this chap-
ter). After-hours pubs that attract the young and hip but are still congenial for
those over 25 include Whelans, 25 Wexford St., Dublin 2 (& 01/478-0766),
and the second-oldest pub in Dublin, the Bleeding Horse, 24–25 Camden St.,
Dublin 2 (& 01/475-2705). For the over-30 late crowd, try Break for the
Border, Lower Stephen’s Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/478-0300), Bad Bob’s Back-
stage Bar, East Essex Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/677-0945), Major Tom’s, South
King Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/478-3266), or Sinnotts, South King Street,
Dublin 2 (& 01/478-4698).
THE CLUB & MUSIC SCENE
Dublin’s club and music scene is confoundingly complex and volatile. Jazz,
blues, folk, country, traditional, rock, and comedy move from venue to venue,
night by night. The same club could be a gay fetish scene one night and a
techno-pop dance hall the next, so you have to stay on your toes to find what
you want. The first rule is to get the very latest listings and see what’s on and
where (see the introduction to “Dublin After Dark” for a couple of suggested
resources). Keeping all this in mind, a few low-risk generalizations might prove
helpful to give you a sense of what to expect.
One fact unlikely to change is that the after-hours scene in Dublin is definitively
young, averaging about 25. The hottest clubs have a “strict” (read unfriendly)
Tips Late-Night Bites

Although Dublin is keeping later and later hours, it is still nearly impossi-
ble to find anything approaching 24-hour dining. Another night-owl
haunt is the Coffee Dock at Jurys Hotel, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (& 01/660-
5000). It’s open Monday 7am to 4:30am, Tuesday to Saturday 6am to
4:30am, and Sunday 6am to 10:30pm. Bewley’s, 78–79 Grafton St., Dublin
2 (& 01/677-6761), is open until 1am on Friday and Saturday.
door policy of admitting only “regulars.” It helps if you’re a celebrity or a super-

model—or just look like one. But barring that, your chances of getting past the
door increase if you go in smallish groups and wear your hippest clothes and
your coolest attitude.
Most trendy clubs have DJs or live music, with the current genre of choice
being “rave.” Cover charges tend to fluctuate not only from place to place but
from night to night and from person to person (some people can’t buy their way
in, while others glide in gratis). Cover charges range from nominal to €15
($18).
HIPPER THAN THOU
Wear your designer duds and a big attitude to these cutting-edge clubs, where
Europe’s best DJs are the prime entertainers:
Lillie’s Bordello Open more than a decade and still the hippest of them all,
Lillie’s breaks the rule that you’ve got to be new to be hot. Paintings of nudes
hanging on whorehouse-red walls is the look that’s made Lillie’s a surprisingly
unraunchy icon of kitsch. There’s a well-deserved reputation for posers and boy-
band celebrities, and the door policy can best be described as callous, except on
Sundays. If you don’t feel like dancing, head for “The Library,” whose floor-to-
ceiling bookcases and well-worn leather Chesterfields evoke a Victorian gentle-
men’s club. Open daily from 11pm to 3am. Adam Court, off Grafton St., Dublin 2. & 01/
679-9204.
Renards This quasi–jazz club is the see-and-be-seen choice of the highlife set.
Regulars include Bono of U2, actors Colin Farrell and Gabriel Byrne, and the
Corrs, while out-of-towners like Mick Jagger pop in when they’re in town. The
look is modern (think glass and chrome) on all three floors: the upstairs piano
bar with its small tables and comfy armchairs; the bustling ground-floor cafe-
bar; and the basement Plus club, which pulls in the crowd with live music—
everything from acid jazz to Latin beats—Sunday to Thursday. Renards is open
nightly from 11pm to 3am. 23–25 Frederick St. S., Dublin 2. & 01/648-1099.
Rí-Rá The name means “uproar” in Irish. Though trendy, Rí-Rá has a friend-
lier door policy than most of its competition, so this may be the place to try first.
Open nightly from 11:30pm to 4am or later. 1 Exchequer St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-4835.
Spy Club Fashionable 30-somethings love this lounge bar, where the empha-
sis is off dance and firmly on socializing. The look begins with a classical, 18th-
century town house with mile-high, corniced ceilings. Next, add Greco-Roman
friezes and pared-down, contemporary furnishings. Need more drama? The VIP
room’s focal point is a photo of a woman in the buff riding a tiger pelt—an in-
your-face wink at the Celtic tiger. Saturday is electric pop night; Sunday is gay
night. Open nightly from 7pm to 3am. Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, S. William St.,
Dublin 2. No phone.
Traffic Located opposite Arnott’s department store, this urban-cool bar and
club covers three floors. Music is provided by a mix of Dublin DJs and interna-
tional talent. By day, the mood is fresh and funky; after hours things get hotter.
54 Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1. & 01/873-4800.
KINDER & GENTLER CLUBS

These established clubs, while they attract young singles and couples, have
friendly door policies and are places where people of almost any age and ilk are
likely to feel comfortable.
Annabel’s Just south of the Lower Leeson Street nightclub strip, this club is
one of the longest-lasting in town. It welcomes a mix of tourists and locals of all
ages with a disco party atmosphere. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10pm to
2am. Burlington hotel, Upper Leeson St., Dublin 4. & 01/660-5222.
Club M In the basement of Blooms hotel, in the trendy Temple Bar district
close to Trinity College, this club boasts Ireland’s largest laser-lighting system. It
offers DJ-driven dance or live music for the over-23 age bracket. Open Tuesday
to Sunday from 11pm to 2am. Blooms hotel, Anglesea St., Dublin 2. & 01/671-5622.
COMEDY CLUBS
The Irish comedy circuit is relatively new and quite popular. The timing, wit,
and twist of mind required for comedy seems to me so native to the Irish that
it’s difficult to draw a line between those who practice comedy for a living and
those who practice it as a way of life. You’ll find both in the flourishing Dublin
comedy clubs. Besides the favorite clubs listed below, Vicar Street (see “Smaller
Concert Venues,” below) tends to get many of the international comics who
happen to be in town. As always, check the latest listings magazines for details.
Admission ranges from €5 to €20 ($6–$24) depending on the act and the
night.
Comedy Club A very small, packed venue, full of enthusiastic exchange. This
is up-close, in-your-face improv, with nowhere to hide, so stake out your turf
early. International Bar, 23 Wicklow St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-9250.
Ha’Penny Laugh Comedy Club Ha’Penny plays host to some of Ireland’s
funniest people, many of whom are in theater. The Battle of the Axe is a weekly
show in which comedians, singers, songwriters, musicians, actors, and whoever
storm the open mic in pursuit of the Lucky Duck Award. Ha’penny Bridge Inn, Mer-
chant’s Arch, Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. & 01/677-0616.
Murphy’s Laughter Lounge This 400-seat comedy venue is the current
prime-time king of the Irish comedy circuit. It attracts the most popular stand-
ups on the Irish scene as well as top international acts. Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1.
& 1-800/COMEDY.
DINNER SHOWS & TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT
These shows are outside the city center and aimed at tourists, although locals
also attend and enjoy them.
Abbey Tavern After you’ve ordered an a la carte dinner, the show—authentic
Irish ballad music, with its blend of fiddles, pipes, tin whistles, and spoons—
costs an extra €4.50 ($5.40). The price of a full dinner and show is €50 ($60).
The box office is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm. Dinner is at
7pm, and shows start at 9pm. There are shows nightly in the summer; in the off
season, call ahead to find out which nights shows will be offered. Abbey Rd., Howth,
County Dublin. & 01/839-0307.
Cultúrlann na hÉireann This is the home of Comhaltas Ceoltoiri Éireann,
an Irish cultural organization that has been the prime mover in encouraging a
renewed appreciation of and interest in Irish traditional music. The year-round
entertainment programs include old-fashioned ceili dances (Fri 9pm–midnight)
and informal music sessions (Fri–Sat 9:30–11:30pm). From mid-June to early
September, there’s an authentic fully costumed show featuring traditional music,
song, and dance (Mon–Thurs 9–10:30pm). No reservations are necessary for
any of the events. 32 Belgrave Sq., Monkstown, County Dublin. & 01/280-0295. www.
comhaltas.com. Tickets for ceilis €7 ($8.45); informal music €2 ($2.40); stage show €15 ($18).
DART: Monkstown. Bus: 7, 7A, or 8.
Jurys Irish Cabaret Ireland’s longest-running show (more than 30 years)
offers a unique mix. You’ll see and hear traditional Irish and international music,
rousing ballads and Broadway classics, toe-tapping set dancing and graceful bal-
let, humorous monologues and telling recitations, plus audience participation.
The show takes place May through October, Tuesday to Sunday. Dinner is
served at 7:15pm; the show starts at 8pm. In Jurys Hotel and Towers, Pembroke Rd., Balls-
bridge, Dublin 4. & 01/660-5000. Tickets €50 ($60). AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. DART: Lans-
downe Rd. Bus: 5, 7, 7A, or 8.
THE GAY & LESBIAN SCENE

New gay and lesbian bars, clubs, and venues appear monthly, it seems, and many
clubs and organizations, such as the Irish Film Centre, have special gay events or
evenings once a week to once a month. The social scene ranges from quiet pub
conversation and dancing to fetish nights and hilarious contests. Cover charges
range from €5 to €15 ($5.75–$18), depending on the club or venue, with dis-
counts for students and seniors.
Check the Gay Community News, In Dublin, or the Event Guide to find
out what’s going on in town. The most comprehensive websites for gay organi-
zations, events, issues, and information are Gay Ireland Online (www.gay-
ireland.com), Outhouse (www.outhouse.ie; click on the “Ireland’s Pink Pages”
link), and Dublin’s Queer Guide (www.dublinqueer.com). Folks on the help
lines Lesbians Organizing Together (& 01/872-7770) and Gay Switchboard
Dublin (& 01/872-1055) are also extremely helpful in directing you to activi-
ties of particular interest. (See “Tips for Travelers with Special Needs,” in chap-
ter 2, for details on many of these resources.)
The Front Lounge This Temple Bar hangout is one of the coolest, chicest
pubs in Dublin, with every drink under the sun, and great big loungey couches
to chill in. Go early, get a nice seat, and relax with a G and T. The crowd is
mixed, but definitely more gay than straight. Every Tuesday night there’s a
cabaret hosted by a drag queen—one of the most popular gay nights out in
Dublin. 32 Parliament St., Dublin 2. & 01/670-4112. Bus: 54 or 65.
The George The George is Dublin’s largest gay bar, covering two floors where
both the decor and clientele can be described as camp. Theme nights include
“Carwash,” a 1970s disco night every Thursday, and bingo in the bar Sundays
at 5pm. 89 S. Great George’s St., Dublin 2. & 01/478-2983. Admission for theme nights, usu-
ally 10pm–2am, €7 ($8.05). DART: Tara St. Bus: 22A.
Out on the Liffey This relaxed, friendly pub caters to a balance of gays and
lesbians (except for Sat, which is men only) and serves up pub food with good
conversation. In 1998, “Out” expanded to include a happening late-night
venue, Oscar’s, where you can dance (or drink) until you drop. 27 Upper Ormond
Quay, Dublin 1. & 01/872-2480. DART: Tara St. Walk up the Liffey and cross at Parliament Bridge.
Bus: 34, 70, or 80.
THE PERFORMING ARTS

T H E AT E R
Dublin has a venerable and vital theatrical tradition, in which imagination and
talent have consistently outstripped funding. Apart from some mammoth
shows at the Point, production budgets and ticket prices remain modest, even
minuscule, compared with those in New York or any other major U.S. city.
With the exception of a handful of houses that offer a more-or-less uninter-
rupted flow of productions, most theaters mount shows only as they find the
funds and opportunity to do so. A few venerable (or at least well-established)
theaters offer serious drama more-or-less regularly.
The online booking site Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.ie) is an excellent
place to get a quick look at what’s playing where and also to buy tickets. In addi-
tion to the major theaters listed below, other venues present fewer, although on
occasion quite impressive, productions. They also book music and dance per-
formances. They include the Focus Theatre, 12 Fade St., Dublin 2 (& 01/671-
2417), the Gaiety Theatre, South King Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/677-1717), the
Olympia, 72 Dame St., Dublin 2 (& 01/679-3323), Project: Dublin, 39 E.
Essex St., Dublin 2 (& 01/679-6622), and the Tivoli, 135–138 Francis St.,
opposite Iveagh Market, Dublin 8 (& 01/454-4472).
Abbey Theatre For more than 90 years, the Abbey has been the national the-
ater of Ireland. The original theater, destroyed by fire in 1951, was replaced in
1966 by the current functional, although uninspired, 600-seat house. The
Abbey’s artistic reputation in Ireland has risen and fallen many times, but is rea-
sonably strong at present. Lower Abbey St., Dublin 1. & 01/878-7222. www.abbeytheatre.
ie. Tickets €15–€26 ($18–$31). Senior, student, and children’s discounts available Mon–Thurs
evening and Sat matinee.
Andrews Lane Theatre This relatively new venue has an ascending reputation
for fine theater. It consists of a 220-seat main theater where contemporary work
from home and abroad is presented, and a 76-seat studio geared for experimental
productions. 9–17 St. Andrews Lane, Dublin 2. & 01/679-5720. Tickets €13–€20 ($16–$24).
The City Arts Centre The City Arts Centre is an affiliate of Trans Europe
Halles, the European network of independent arts centers. It presents a varied
program, from dramatic productions, theatrical discussions, and readings by
local writers to shows by touring companies from abroad. In May 2000 it was
home to the World Stories Festival. 23–25 Moss St., at City Quay. & 01/677-0643. Tick-
ets €10–€12 ($12–$14).
The Gate Just north of O’Connell Street off Parnell Square, this recently
restored 370-seat theater was founded in 1928 by Hilton Edwards and Michael
MacLiammoir to provide a venue for a broad range of plays. That policy prevails
today, with a program that includes a blend of modern works and the classics.
Although less known by visitors, The Gate is easily as distinguished as the
Abbey. 1 Cavendish Row, Dublin 1. & 01/874-4368. Tickets €21–€25 ($25–$30) or €15 ($18)
for previews. AE, DC, MC, V.
The Peacock In the same building as the Abbey, this 150-seat theater features
contemporary plays and experimental works. It books poetry readings and one-
person shows, as well as plays in the Irish language. Lower Abbey St., Dublin 1. & 01/
878-7222. www.abbeytheatre.ie. Tickets €10–€20 ($12–$24).
CONCERTS
Dublin is a great town for live music. On a given night, you can find almost
anything—rock, pop, jazz, blues, traditional Irish, country, or folk—so check
listings magazines to find out what’s on and where. Music and dance concerts
take place in a range of Dublin venues—theaters, churches, clubs, museums,
sports stadiums, castles, parks, and universities. Again, the online booking site
SIDE TRIPS FROM DUBLIN 167
Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.ie) is an excellent place to get a quick look at

who’s playing where and buy your tickets. While you’re probably more likely to
choose your entertainment based on the performer rather than the venue, these
institutions stand out as venues where most international performers play.
The Helix This massive auditorium at University College Dublin hosts many
concerts throughout the year. The box office is open Monday to Saturday 10am
to 6pm. Collins Ave., Glasnevin, Dublin 9. & 01/700-7077. www.helix.ie. Tickets €13–€60
($16–$75). AE, MC, V.
National Concert Hall This magnificent 1,200-seat hall is home to the
National Symphony Orchestra and Concert Orchestra, and host to an array of
international orchestras and performing artists. In addition to classical music,
there are evenings of Gilbert and Sullivan, opera, jazz, and recitals. The box
office is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 3pm and from 6pm to close of
concert. Open weekends 1 hour before concerts. Parking is available on the
street. Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2. & 01/417-0000. www.nch.ie. Tickets €10–€32 ($12–$39).
Lunchtime concerts €5 ($6). DC, MC, V.
The Point Depot With a seating capacity of 3,000, The Point is one of
Dublin’s larger indoor theater/concert venues, attracting top Broadway-caliber
shows and international stars such as Justin Timberlake and Tom Jones. The box
office is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm. Parking is €4 ($4.80) per car.
East Link Bridge, North Wall Quay. & 01/836-3633. Tickets €13–€65 ($16–$78). AE, DC, MC, V.
Royal Dublin Society (RDS) Although best known as the venue for the
Dublin Horse Show, this huge indoor arena also hosts major concerts (Bruce
Springsteen, Paul McCartney, and The Eagles were recent performers), with
seating and standing room for more than 6,000 people. Merrion Rd., Ballsbridge,
Dublin 2. & 01/668-0866. www.rds.ie. Most tickets €13–€40 ($16–$48).
SMALLER CONCERT VENUES

If you prefer smaller, more intimate settings, check out the listings magazines for
who’s performing at these favorite venues:
Temple Bar Music Centre, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 (& 01/670-9202)
Vicar Street, 99 Vicar St., Dublin 8 (& 01/454-5533; www.vicar
street.com)
Whelans, 25 Wexford St., Dublin 2 (& 01/478-0766)
Eamonn Doran’s, 3A Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 (& 01/679-
9114)
Club Mono, 26 Wexford St., Dublin 2 (& 01/475-8555)
Midnight at the Olympia, 74 Dame St., Dublin 2 (& 01/677-7744)
10 Side Trips from Dublin

Fanning out a little over 19km (12 miles) in each direction, Dublin’s southern
and northern suburbs offer a variety of interesting sights and experiences. All are
easy to reach by public transportation or rental car.
DUBLIN’S SOUTHERN SUBURBS
Stretching southward along Dublin Bay from Ballsbridge is the harbor town of
Dun Laoghaire, followed by Dublin’s poshest suburbs, the seaside towns of
Dalkey and Killiney—nicknamed “Bel Eire” for their beauty and density
of celebrity residents. All three towns offer lovely seaside views and walks. Dun
Laoghaire has a long promenade and a bucolic park, Killiney has a stunning,
cliff-backed expanse of beach. The prettiest is Dalkey, a heritage town with a

lovely medieval streetscape and something for just about everyone.
Thanks to DART service, these towns are easily accessible from downtown
Dublin. They offer a good selection of restaurants and fine places to stay. A
hillside overlooking Dublin Bay outside the village of Killiney is the setting for
the Dublin area’s only authentic deluxe castle hotel, Fitzpatrick Castle (see
“Where to Stay,” below).
If you’re traveling to Ireland by ferry from Holyhead, Wales, your first glimpse
of Ireland will be the port of Dun Laoghaire. Many people decide to base them-
selves here and commute into downtown Dublin each day. As a base, it is less
expensive than Dalkey, but less attractive, too.
AT T R A C T I O N S
Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre Housed in a 16th-century tower house,
the center and its fascinating exhibitions unfold this venerable town’s remarkable
history. After taking in the exhibit, you can visit the battlements to put it all in
place and enjoy vistas of the Dublin area coastline. Adjoining the center is a
medieval graveyard and the Church of St. Begnet, Dalkey’s patron saint, whose
foundations may be traced to Ireland’s Early Christian period. Booklets sketch-
ing the history of the town, the church, and the graveyard are available at the
Heritage Centre. You’ll see and appreciate more of this landmark town if you
purchase these and take them next door to the Queens Bar for a pint and quick
scan. “Those who are patient,” wrote the playwright Hugh Leonard, “and will
sit, wait and listen or will linger along the tree-shaded roads running down to
the sea, can hear the centuries pass.”
Castle St., Dalkey, County Dublin. & 01/285-8366. Admission €6 ($7.20) adults, €5 ($6) seniors and stu-
dents, €4 ($4.80) children, €16 ($19) families. Apr–Oct Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–5pm;
Nov–Mar Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. DART: Dalkey. Bus: 8.
The Ferryman Kids Young Aidan Fennel heads the third generation of Fen-
nels to ferry visitors to nearby Dalkey Island, whose only current inhabitants are
a small herd of wild goats and the occasional seal. Aidan is a boat builder, and
his brightly painted fleet comes mostly from his hand. The island, settled about
6000 B.C., offers three modest ruins: a church that’s over 1,000 years old, ram-
parts dating from the 15th century, and a Martello tower constructed in 1804
to make Napoleon think twice. Now the island is little more than a lovely pic-
nic spot. If you want to build up an appetite and delight your children or sweet-
heart, row out in one of Aidan’s handmade boats.
Coliemore Rd. (at stone wharf, adjacent to a seaside apt complex). & 01/283-4298. Island ferry round-trip
€10 ($12) adults, €5 ($6) children; rowboat rental €15 ($18)/hr. June–Aug, weather permitting.
James Joyce Museum Sitting on the edge of Dublin Bay about 9.7km
(6 miles) south of the city center, this 12m (40-ft.) granite monument is one of
a series of Martello towers built in 1804 to withstand an invasion threatened by
Napoleon. The tower’s great claim to fame is that James Joyce lived here in 1904.
He was the guest of Oliver Gogarty, who rented the tower from the Army for an
annual fee of IR£8 (€10/$12). Joyce, in turn, made the tower the setting for the
first chapter of Ulysses, and it has been known as Joyce’s Tower ever since. Its col-
lection of Joycean memorabilia includes letters, documents, first and rare edi-
tions, personal possessions, and photographs.
Sandycove, County Dublin. & 01/280-9265. Admission €6 ($7.20) adults, €5 ($6) seniors and students,
€3.75 ($4.95) children, €18 ($21) families. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–1pm and 2–5pm; Sun 2–6pm. Closed
Nov–Mar. DART: Sandycove. Bus: 8.
Side Trips from Dublin
Balbriggan Bernagearagh Bay 0 2 1/2 mi
6 N
7 0 2.5 km
R127 St. Patrick’s Island
8
Skerries
9
Shenick’s Island
Area
N1 of Detail
R127 Dublin
R128
REPUBLIC
OF IRELAND
R108
R126
Lambay Island
10 Donabate
11
Swords
R106 Malahide
12 13
Irish Sea
R122 R106
N1
Dublin
Airport M1 Portmarnock
Ireland’s Eye
R107 15
R104 Sutton Howth 16
N2 3 4 14
Ben of
2 R103 5 Howth
R105
1 North Bull ATTRACTIONS
N3 Clontarf Island Ardgillan Castle 6
N4
DUBLIN Dublin Bay
Casino Marino 5
fey Dalkey Castle Heritage
Lif
N7
na
l
R119
Centre 25
Ca
yal The Ferryman 22
Ro
N11 The Fry Model Railway 12
17 18
R117 Howth Castle Rhododendron
Dun 19 20
R112 Laoghaire 21 Gardens 14
Sandycove James Joyce Museum 20
22 Dalkey Island
Dalkey Malahide Castle 13
23
Dalkey Hill National Botanic Gardens 2
R113
Killiney Hill 25 24
26 Newbridge House
To Shankill Killiney and Park 10
27 Skerries Mills 7
ACCOMMODATIONS DINING
Clontarf Castle Hotel 1 Abbey Tavern 15
The Court Hotel 27 Brasserie na Mara 18
Egan’s House 3 Caviston’s 19
Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel 26 Dee Gee’s Wine and Steak Bar 16
Forte Travelodge 11 Munkberrys 24
The Gresham Royal Marine 17 Nosh 23
Iona House 4 P.D.’s Woodhouse 21
Red Bank House 9 The Red Bank 9
169
W H E R E T O S TAY
Expensive
The Court Hotel Situated on 1.6 hectares (4 acres) of gardens and lawns, this
three-story Victorian hotel enjoys a splendid location overlooking Killiney Bay
and convenient access to Dublin with the nearby DART. The hotel’s multiple
lounges and popular restaurants show off their Victorian origins with corniced
ceilings and old wood, and are bright and welcoming. The guest rooms are com-
fortably, though unremarkably, furnished, so it pays to request a room with a
view of the bay. The real draw of this hotel is its lovely setting, which is con-
venient for excursions to Dublin as well as evening strolls on one of the most
beautiful beaches on Ireland’s east coast.
Killiney Bay Rd., Killiney, County Dublin. & 800/221-2222 in the U.S. or 01/285-1622. Fax 01/285-2085. 86
units. €175–€230 ($211–$277) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
DART: Killiney. Bus: 59. Amenities: 2 restaurants (Continental, grill); lounge; bar; concierge; room service;
laundry service. In room: TV, hair dryer, radio.
Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel With a fanciful Victorian facade of turrets, tow-

ers, and battlements, this restored 1741 gem is an ideal choice for those who want
to live it up a bit. A 15-minute drive from the center of the city, it is between the
villages of Dalkey and Killiney, on 3.6 hectares (9 acres) of gardens and hilltop
grounds with romantic vistas of Dublin Bay. Two generations of the Fitzpatrick
family pamper guests with 21st-century comforts in a regal setting of medieval
suits of armor, Louis XIV–style furnishings, Irish antiques, original oil paintings,
and specially woven shamrock-pattern green carpets. Most of the guest rooms
have four-poster or canopy beds, and many have balconies with sweeping views
of Dublin and the surrounding countryside. In spite of its size and exacting stan-
dards, the castle never fails to exude a friendly, family-run atmosphere.
Killiney Hill Rd., Killiney, County Dublin. & 01/230-5400. Fax 01/230-5430. www.fitzpatrickcastle.ie. 113
units. €210 ($253) double. Breakfast €17 ($20). AE, DC, MC, V. DART: Dalkey. Bus: 59. Amenities: 2 restau-
rants (Continental, grill); 2 bars; indoor swimming pool; guest privileges at nearby 18-hole golf course; gym;
saunas; concierge; salon; room service; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair
Moderate
The Gresham Royal Marine A landmark since 1870, this five-story hotel
sits on a hill overlooking the harbor, 11km (7 miles) south of Dublin City. It’s a
good place to stay for ready access to the ferry across the Irish Sea to and from
Wales. Basically a Georgian building with a wing of modern rooms, the Royal
Marine has public areas that have been beautifully restored and recently refur-
bished, with original molded ceilings and elaborate cornices, crystal chandeliers,
marble-mantled fireplaces, and antique furnishings. The older rooms, many of
which offer wide-windowed views of the bay, carry through the Georgian theme,
with dark woods, traditional floral fabrics, and four-poster or canopy beds.
Newer rooms are less atmospheric, with more contemporary light woods and
pastel tones.
Marine Rd., Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 01/280-1911. Fax 01/280-1089.
www.ryan-hotels.com. 103 units. €150 ($181) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. DART: Dun Laoghaire. Bus: 7, 7A, or 8. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; concierge; room serv-
ice; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press, radio, voice mail.
WHERE TO DINE
Expensive
Brasserie na Mara SEAFOOD Award-winning chef Adrian Spelman
keeps this fine seafood restaurant high on the charts, despite ever-steepening
competition. Set squarely in the bustle of Dun Laoghaire’s busy seafront, this
restaurant, elegantly converted from the old Kingstown terminal building, has
been a benchmark for South Dublin cuisine since 1971. In addition to a wide
selection of fish and shellfish, you can count on an array of poultry and meat
dishes, from guinea fowl to Irish beef, as well as vegetarian options. Flaming
desserts—another specialty—provide both high drama and suitable closure to a
memorable meal.
1 Harbour Rd., Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin. & 01/280-6767. Reservations required. 4-course fixed-price
lunch €25 ($30); 4-course fixed-price dinner €35 ($42); main courses €17–€27 ($21–$32). Mon–Fri
12:30–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 6:30–10pm. DART: Dun Laoghaire. Bus: 7, 7A, 8, or 46A.
Moderate
Caviston’s SEAFOOD Fresh, fresh fish is the hallmark of this tiny lunch
spot in Sandycove, run by the Caviston family, whose neighboring delicatessen
and fish shop is legendary. There’s no doubt that having the inside track on fresh
produce transfers to the preparation of fish in the restaurant itself; chef Noel
Cusack checks out the daily catch before creating the menu of simply prepared
dishes, relying on just one or two well-chosen ingredients to bring out the
seafood’s delicate flavors. The daily menu might include roast monkfish with
pasta in a saffron-and-basil sauce, chargrilled salmon with béarnaise, or mari-
nated red mullet with roasted red peppers. Unfortunately, the three lunchtime
sittings can make for frantic service, so your best bet is to arrive at noon sharp
before things get too hectic, or else aim for the last sitting and enjoy your meal
without feeling like your table has been earmarked for somebody else.
59 Glasthule Rd., Sandycove, County Dublin. & 01/280-9120. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€13–€28 ($16–$34). DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 3 sittings: noon, 1:30pm, 3pm; Sat: noon, 1:45pm, and 3:15pm.
Munkberrys MODERN CONTINENTAL Crisp linens, candlelight, and

tasteful contemporary art lend an immediate calm to this intimate restaurant on
Dalkey’s most animated street. The excitement here lies in the food, which pro-
vokes both the eye and the palate. The crostini of goat’s cheese with fresh figs
and spicy tomato chutney arrives on a swirl of delicious and mysterious sauces.
The spinach ricotta tortellini with a Stilton, pistachio, and cognac sauce is per-
fectly prepared and elegant to behold. It’s a struggle to decide between desserts:
The lemon crème brûlée with hazelnut biscuit? Or perhaps the steamed date
pudding with butterscotch? Or—sigh—the Italian ice cream. While the service
is especially attentive, there is no true separation of smokers and nonsmokers,
who are potentially at arm’s length from each other.
Castle St., Dalkey, County Dublin. & 01/284-7185. Reservations recommended. 4-course fixed-price dinner
€30 ($36); main courses €13–€23 ($16–$28); early-bird fixed-price dinner (Mon–Sat 5:30–7pm) €20 ($24).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm and 5:30–10pm; Sat 5:30–10:30pm; Sun noon–6pm. DART: Dalkey.
Nosh INTERNATIONAL Call it a rich man’s diner or a poor man’s

bistro, if you must, but Nosh delivers the sort of hit-the-spot food that you wish
you could get in your own neighborhood. The point is: It ain’t what they do, it’s
the way that they do it. French toast with bacon, bananas, and maple syrup is
terrifically satisfying; there are wonderful soups, and big, well-constructed club
sandwiches. If you’re in the mood for something more elitist, go for one of the
fish dishes, such as the sautéed brill with ratatouille, and choose one of the wines
from the short-but-sweet list. The place is friendly, the food is top-notch, and
brunch on weekends is simply fabulous.
111 Coliemore Rd., Dalkey, County Dublin. & 01/284-0666. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€17–€25 ($21–$30). MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–4pm and 6–10pm. DART: Dalkey.
P. D.’s Woodhouse IRISH/MEDITERRANEAN The first and only oak-

wood barbecue bistro in Ireland, P. D.’s Woodhouse cooks everything over chips
from oaks ripped up by Hurricane Charlie, the worst tropical storm to hit Ire-
land in recent memory. The wild Irish salmon in caper-and-herb butter is fabu-
lous, as is the white sole. And whatever you do, don’t miss the Halumi cheese
kabobs—conversation-stopping grilled Greek goat cheese. On the other hand,
the nut kabobs, one of several vegetarian entrees, are unnecessarily austere.
1 Coliemore Rd., Dalkey center, County Dublin. & 01/284-9399. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€10–€23 ($12–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–11pm; Sun 4–9:30pm. DART: Dalkey.
PUBS
P. McCormack and Sons This popular pub offers three distinctive atmos-
pheres. The main bar has an old-world feel, with globe lamps, stained-glass win-
dows, books and jugs on the shelves, and lots of nooks and crannies for a quiet
drink. In the sky-lit, plant-filled conservatory area, classical music fills the air,
and outdoors you’ll find a festive courtyard beer garden. The pub grub here is
top-notch, with a varied buffet table of lunchtime salads and meats. 67 Lower
Mounttown Rd. (off York Rd.), Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin. & 01/280-5519.
The Purty Kitchen Housed in a building that dates from 1728, this old pub
has a homey atmosphere, with an open brick fireplace, cozy alcoves, a large fish
mural, and pub poster art on the walls. There’s always something going on—be
it a session of Irish traditional music in the main bar area, blues upstairs in the
Loft, or a DJ spinning dance music. Call ahead for entertainment details. Old
Dunleary Rd., Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin. & 01/284-3576. No cover for traditional music;
cover €6–€8 ($7.20–$9.60) for blues in the Loft.
DUBLIN’S NORTHERN SUBURBS

Dublin’s northern suburbs make a convenient base to Dublin International
Airport, and they’re also home to a delightful assortment of castles, historic
buildings, gardens, and other attractions. In addition, the residential suburbs of
Drumcondra and Glasnevin offer many good lodgings.
Just north of Dublin, the picturesque suburbs of Howth and Malahide offer
panoramic views of Dublin Bay, beautiful hillside gardens, and many fine
seafood restaurants. Best of all, they are easily reached on the DART. Farther
north along the coast, but only 20 minutes from Dublin Airport, lies the
bustling and attractive harbor town of Skerries . Skerries is a convenient and
appealing spot to spend your first or last night in Ireland; or stay longer and
explore all this area has to offer, including a resident colony of gray seals and the
lowest annual rainfall in Ireland.
Ardgillan Castle and Park Between Balbriggan and Skerries, this exquis-
itely restored 18th-century castellated country house sits right on the coastline
on sumptuously manicured lawns. The house was built in 1738 and contains
some fine period furnishings and antiques. But the real draw is the setting, right
on the edge of the Irish Sea, with miles of walking paths and coastal views as well
as a rose garden and an herb garden. Behind the lavish rose garden, there’s also
a nice cafe for grabbing a quick bite or some ice cream.
Balbriggan, County Dublin. & 01/849-2212. Admission to house €5 ($6) adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors and
students, €10 ($12) families. Castle Oct–Dec and Feb–Mar Tues–Sun 11am–4:30pm; Apr–June and Sept
Tues–Sun 11am–6pm; July–Aug daily 11am–6pm. Park daily dawn to dusk. Closed Jan. Free parking year-
round. Signposted off N1. Bus: 33.
Casino Marino Standing on a gentle rise 4.8km (3 miles) north of the city
center, this 18th-century building is considered one of the finest garden temples
in Europe. Designed in the Franco-Roman neoclassical style by Scottish archi-
tect Sir William Chambers, it was constructed in the garden of Lord
Charlemont’s house by the English sculptor Simon Vierpyl. Work commenced
in 1762 and was completed 15 years later. It is particularly noteworthy for its
elaborate stone carvings and compact structure, which make it appear to be a
single story tall (it is actually two stories tall).
Malahide Rd., Marino, Dublin 3. & 01/833-1618. Admission €3 ($3.60) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors and
group members, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. Feb–Apr and Nov Sun and Thurs
noon–4pm; May and Oct daily noon–5pm; June–Sept daily 10am–6pm. Closed Dec–Jan. Bus: 20A, 20B, 27,
27A, 27B, 42, 42B, or 42C.
The Fry Model Railway Kids On the grounds of Malahide Castle (see listing
below), this is an exhibit of rare handmade models of more than 300 Irish trains,
from the introduction of rail to the present. The trains were built in the 1920s
and 1930s by Cyril Fry, a railway engineer and draftsman. The complex includes
items of Irish railway history dating from 1834, and models of stations, bridges,
trams, buses, barges, boats, the River Liffey, and the Hill of Howth.
Malahide, County Dublin. & 01/846-3779. Admission €6 ($7.20) adults, €5.25 ($6.30) seniors and stu-
dents, €3.50 ($4.20) children, €18 ($21) families. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–6pm; Nov–Mar Sun
2–5pm. Closed for tours 1–2pm year-round. Suburban Rail to Malahide. Bus: 42.
Howth Castle Rhododendron Gardens On a steep slope about 13km

(8 miles) north of downtown, this 12-hectare (30-acre) garden was first planted
in 1875 and is best known for its 2,000 varieties of rhododendrons. Peak bloom
time is in May and June. Note: The castle and its private gardens are not open
to the public.
Howth, County Dublin. & 01/832-2624. Free admission. Apr–June daily 8am–sunset. DART: Howth. Bus: 31.
Malahide Castle Kids About 13km (8 miles) north of Dublin, Malahide

is one of Ireland’s most historic castles. Founded in the 12th century by Richard
Talbot, it was occupied by his descendants until 1973. The fully restored inte-
rior is the setting for a comprehensive collection of Irish furniture dating from
the 17th to the 19th centuries. One-of-a-kind Irish historical portraits and
tableaux on loan from the National Gallery line the walls. The furnishings and
art reflect life in and near the house over the past 8 centuries. After touring the
house, you can explore the 100-hectare (250-acre) estate, which includes 8
hectares (20 acres) of prized gardens with more than 5,000 species of plants and
flowers, and a children’s playground. The Malahide grounds also contain the Fry
Model Railway museum (see above) and Tara’s Palace, an antique dollhouse
and toy collection.
Malahide, County Dublin. & 01/846-2184. [email protected]. Admission €6 ($7.20) adults,
€5 ($6) students and seniors, €3.50 ($4.20) children under 12, €17 ($21) families; gardens free. AE, MC, V.
Combination tickets with Fry Model Railway and Newbridge House available. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm,
Sun 11am–6pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 2–5pm; gardens May–Sept daily 2–5pm. Closed for
tours 12:45–2pm (restaurant remains open). DART: Malahide. Bus: 42.
National Botanic Gardens Established by the Royal Dublin Society in 1795

on a rolling 20-hectare (50-acre) expanse of land north of the city center, this is
Dublin’s horticultural showcase. The attractions include more than 20,000 dif-
ferent plants and cultivars, a Great Yew Walk, a bog garden, a water garden, a rose
garden, and an herb garden. A variety of Victorian-style glass houses are filled
with tropical plants and exotic species. Remember this spot when you suddenly
crave refuge from the bustle of the city. It’s a quiet, lovely haven, within a short
walk of Glasnevin Cemetery. All but the rose garden is wheelchair accessible.
There’s free roadside parking outside the garden gates.
Botanic Rd., Glasnevin, Dublin 9. & 01/837-7596. Free admission. Guided tour €2 ($2.40).Apr–Oct Mon–Sat
9am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 10am–4:30pm, Sun 11am–4:30pm. Bus: 13, 19, or 134.
Newbridge House and Park Kids This country mansion 19km (12
miles) north of Dublin dates from 1740 and was once the home of Dr. Charles
Cobbe, an archbishop of Dublin. Occupied by the Cobbe family until 1984, the
house is a showcase of family memorabilia such as hand-carved furniture, por-
traits, daybooks, and dolls, as well as a museum of objects collected on world
travels. The Great Drawing Room, in its original state, is one of the finest Geor-
gian interiors in Ireland. The house sits on 140 hectares (350 acres), laid out
with picnic areas and walking trails. The grounds also include an 8-hectare (20-
acre) working Victorian farm stocked with animals, as well as a craft shop and a
coffee shop. There’s also a terrific, up-to-the-minute playground for children to
let off some energy. The coffee shop remains open during the lunch hour
(1–2pm).
Donabate, County Dublin. & 01/843-6534. Admission €2.50 ($3) adults, €1.50 ($1.80) seniors and stu-
dents, €1 ($1.20) children, €6 ($7.20) families. Apr–Sept Tues–Sat 10am–1pm and 2–5pm, Sun 2–6pm;
Oct–Mar Sat–Sun 2–5pm. Suburban rail to Donabate. Bus: 33B.
Skerries Mills This fascinating 18-hectare (45-acre) historical complex has

been open for only a few years and is already a major attraction. Why? Well,
bread, for one thing. This site has provided it on and off since the 12th century.
Originally part of an Augustinian Priory, the mill has had many lives (and
deaths). Last known as the Old Mill Bakery, providing loaves to the local north
coast, it suffered a devastating fire in 1986 and lay in ruins until it was reborn
as Skerries Mills in 1999. An ambitious restoration project brought two restored
windmills and a water mill—complete with grinding, winnowing, and thresh-
ing wheels—back into operation. And there’s even an adjoining field of grains—
barley, oats, and wheat, all that’s needed for the traditional brown loaf—sown,
harvested, and threshed using traditional implements and machinery. The result
is not only the sweet smell of fresh bread but an intriguing glimpse into the past,
brought to life not only by guided tours but also by the opportunity to put your
own hand to the stone and to grind your own flour on rotary or saddle querns.
Then, if you’ve worked up an appetite, there’s a lovely tearoom, often hosting
live music, Irish dancing, and other events. Besides all this, there are rotating
special exhibits and a fine gift shop of Irish crafts.
Skerries, County Dublin. & 01/849-5208. Admission €5.50 ($6.60) adults, €4 ($4.80) seniors, students, and
children, €12 ($14) families. Apr–Sept daily 10:30am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10:30am–4:30pm. Closed Dec
20–Jan 1. Suburban Rail. Bus: 33. Skerries town and the Mills signposted north of Dublin off the N1.
W H E R E T O S TAY
Very Expensive
Clontarf Castle Hotel If you want to be within striking distance of
Dublin airport (8km/5 miles away), you can’t beat this luxurious castle hotel in
Clontarf, a pretty seaside suburb served by both the DART and several bus
routes. But if you’ll be spending most of your time in the city center, this hotel
will probably feel too remote. The castle was built in 1172 by Normans and
retains its impressive castellated exterior. Much later, in the 1600s, it was given
to one of Oliver Cromwell’s loyal servants, whose family retained ownership for
the next 300 years. There’s a regal quality about the magnificent entrance hall
and the guest rooms, some of which boast four-poster beds. The place was
completely refurbished in 1998, blending the medieval elements of the castle
with bang-up-to-date facilities. Clontarf Castle is also a leading entertainment
venue, welcoming a variety of musical and comedic guests throughout the year.
Castle Ave., Clontarf, Dublin 3. & 01/833-2321. Fax 01/833-0418. www.clontarfcastle.ie. 111 units. €285
($343) double. Breakfast €19 ($23). AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 130. Amenities: Restaurant (interna-
tional); 2 bars; gym; room service; babysitting; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport,
tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press, radio, voice mail.
Inexpensive
Egan’s House This two-story redbrick Victorian guesthouse is in the center
of a pleasant residential neighborhood that’s within easy access of the city cen-
ter. It’s within walking distance of the Botanic Gardens and a variety of sports
facilities, including tennis, swimming, and a gym. Operated by Pat and Monica
Finn, it offers newly redecorated rooms in a variety of sizes and styles, including
ground-floor rooms. The comfortable public rooms feature traditional dark
woods, brass fixtures, and antiques.
7/9 Iona Park (between Botanic and Lower Drumcondra roads), Glasnevin, Dublin 9. & 800/937-9767 in
the U.S. or 01/830-3611. Fax 01/830-3312. 23 units. €90–€110 ($108–$133) double. Rates include full
breakfast. MC, V. Limited free parking available. Bus: 3, 11, 13, 13A, 16, 19, 19A, 41, 41A, or 41B. Amenities:
Dining room; lounge; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Forte Travelodge About 13km (8 miles) north of downtown and 2.4km (11⁄2
miles) north of Dublin airport, this recently expanded two-story motel offers
adequate, no-frills accommodations at reasonable prices. Each of the basic
rooms, with a double bed and sofa bed, can sleep up to four people. The hotel
is located alongside the N1 motorway, and the interior is clean and modern.
Public areas are limited to a modest reception area, public pay phone, and adja-
cent budget-priced Little Chef Irish chain restaurant and lounge.
N1 Dublin-Belfast road, Swords, County Dublin. & 800/CALL-THF in the U.S. or 1800/709-709 in Ireland.
Fax 01/840-9235. 100 units. €75–€95 ($90–$114) double. Breakfast €5 ($6). AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 41 or 43.
In room: TV, hair dryer.
Iona House A sitting room with a glowing open fireplace, chiming clocks,
brass fixtures, and dark-wood furnishings sets a welcoming tone for guests at this
two-story redbrick Victorian home. Built around the turn of the 20th century,
it has been operated as a guesthouse by Jack Shouldice since 1963. Iona House
is in a residential neighborhood 15 minutes from the city center, within walk-
ing distance of the Botanic Gardens. Guest rooms offer modern hotel-style
appointments, orthopedic beds, and contemporary Irish-made furnishings.
5 Iona Park, Glasnevin, Dublin 9. & 01/830-6217. Fax 01/830-6732. 10 units. €96 ($116) double. Rates
include full breakfast. MC, V. Parking available on street. Closed Dec–Jan. Bus: 19 or 19A. Amenities: Lounge;
nonsmoking rooms; patio. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Red Bank House Value This comfortable nook in the heart of Skerries
town is only 20 to 30 minutes by car from Dublin Airport, so it can provide a
convenient first or last night’s lodging for your Ireland holiday. Better yet, it vir-
tually abuts the award-winning Red Bank restaurant (see “Where to Dine,”
below), so you are guaranteed a memorable introductory or farewell meal in the
country. There’s an invitingly simply country style to the guest rooms—cream
walls, dark woods, crisp white bedspreads, and floral drapes. The power showers
are just the ticket after or before a long journey.
7 Church St. and Convent Lane, Skerries, County Dublin. & 01/849-1005 or 01/849-0439. Fax 01/849-1598.
www.redbank.ie. 18 units (several with shower only). €140 ($168) double. Rates include service and full Irish
breakfast. Half-board (B&B and dinner) for 2 €180 ($216). AE, DC, MC, V. Parking on street and lane. Subur-
ban rail. Bus: 33. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood). In room: TV, dataport, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
Expensive
Abbey Tavern SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL Well known for its nightly
traditional-music ballad sessions, this 16th-century tavern also has a full-service
restaurant upstairs. Although the menu changes by season, entrees often include
scallops Ty Ar Mor (with mushrooms, prawns, and cream sauce), crepes fruits de
mer (seafood crepes), poached salmon, duck with orange and Curaçao sauce,
and veal a la crème. After a meal, you might want to join the audience down-
stairs for some lively Irish traditional music.
Abbey St., Howth, County Dublin. & 01/839-0307. www.abbeytavern.ie. Reservations necessary. Fixed-
price dinner €35 ($42). MC, V. Mon–Sat 7–11pm. DART: Howth. Bus: 31.
The Red Bank SEAFOOD The hugely popular Red Bank restaurant has
been winning friends, influencing people, and garnering awards for nearly 20
years. A bank in a former life, the restaurant uses the old vault as its wine cellar.
The mood here is charmingly old-fashioned and classy. Your waiter takes your
order in the cozy lounge, where you wait with a drink until your meal is ready
and you’re brought to your table. Chef Terry McCoy is an exuberant and
inspired chef, who gets his exceptional fresh seafood from local waters. His
Paddy Attley is a platter of three fish of the day landed in the Skerries Harbor,
each served in a uniquely enhancing sauce. McCoy is at his best with timeless
icons such as scallops in a sauce of butter, cream, and white wine, or a truly
divine lobster thermidor. A dinner here is a both a spectacle and a feast. Service
is correct and respectfully old-school, highlighted when the dessert trolley is
wheeled in, laden with a mouthwatering selection of confections.
7 Church St., Skerries, County Dublin. & 01/849-1005. www.redbank.ie. Reservations required. Dinner main
courses €16–€30 ($20–$36); fixed-price dinners €45–€48 ($54–$57). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7–9:30pm;
Sun 12:30–4pm. Suburban rail. Bus: 33.
Inexpensive
Dee Gee’s Wine and Steak Bar INTERNATIONAL Facing Howth Har-
bour and Dublin Bay, this informal seaside spot opposite the DART station is
ideal for a cup of coffee, a snack, or a full meal. A self-service snackery by day
and a more formal, table-service restaurant at night, it offers indoor and outdoor
seating. Dinner entrees range from steaks and burgers to shrimp scampi and veg-
etable lasagna. At lunchtime, soups, salads, and sandwiches are featured. Sit,
relax, and watch all the activities of Howth from a front-row seat.
Harbour Rd., Howth, County Dublin. & 01/839-2641. Dinner main courses €6–€10 ($7.20–$12). MC, V.
Year-round daily 7am–6pm. DART: Howth. Bus: 31.
5
Out from Dublin
T he distinguished Trinity College
geographer J. H. Andrews once
of the Viking city-states; and the Pale,
the English colonial fist, holding the
labeled “the eastern triangle”—a rest of Ireland in its grip. Here, too,
wedge of Ireland’s east coast, extend- are Newgrange and Knowth, marking
ing north to south from County one of the most profound prehistoric
Wicklow to County Louth, and west sites in the world; Kells, where Ire-
to County Westmeath. Like a stage, land’s greatest treasure was fished from
compact and prominent, this rela- a bog; Mellifont, where the Irish Cis-
tively small space has witnessed and tercian movement made its beginning;
preserved more of the Irish drama and the Valley of the Boyne, where the
than perhaps any other comparable Irish finally lost their country to the
part of the country. And, while the English.
region doesn’t deliver the west’s spell- Rimmed by the Irish Sea, this east-
binding landscapes, you won’t get a ern triangle—every point of which is
bigger bang of Irish history and cul- an easy distance from Dublin City—
ture for your buck. has less rain, less bog, and more
The stretch of level coast from Dun- history than any other region of com-
dalk to the Wicklow Mountains marks parable concentration on the island.
the greatest breach in Ireland’s natural To the south, County Wicklow pres-
defenses, made worse by the inviting ents a panorama of gardens, lakes,
estuaries of the Liffey and the Boyne. mountains, and seascapes. To the east
These “opportunities” were not lost sit the flat plains of County Kildare,
on explorers, settlers, and invaders Ireland’s prime horse country. In the
across the millennia. Once taken, north are the counties of Meath and
whether by Celts, Danes, Normans, or Louth, packed with historic sites. In a
English, this area’s strategic impor- nutshell, this is an area that is both a
tance was soon recognized as the most great hub from which to explore and a
likely command and control center for historical and geographic microcosm
the whole of Ireland. Here lay Tara, for those who don’t have time to hit
the hill of kings; Dublin, the greatest the four corners of the land.
1 County Wicklow & County Carlow

County Wicklow extends from Bray, 19km (12 miles) S of Dublin, to Arklow, 64km (40 miles) S of Dublin
The borders of County Wicklow, nicknamed the “Garden of Ireland,” start just
a dozen or so miles south of downtown Dublin. Within this county, you’ll find
some of Ireland’s best rural scenery. If you’re based in Dublin, you can easily
spend a day or afternoon in Wicklow and return to the city for dinner and the
theater, but you’ll probably want to linger overnight at one of the many fine
country inns.
One accessible, charming gateway to County Wicklow is the small harbor
town of Greystones , which you may not want to tell your friends back
178 CHAPTER 5 . OUT FROM DUBLIN
home about for fear of spoiling the secret. It is hands-down one of the most
unspoiled and attractive harbor towns on Ireland’s east coast. It has no special
attractions except itself, and that’s enough.
In general, though, Wicklow’s most stunning scenery and most interesting
towns and attractions are inland, between Enniskerry and Glendalough. A raised
granite ridge runs through the county, containing two of the highest mountain
passes in the country—the Sally Gap and the Wicklow Gap. The best way to
see the Wicklow Mountains is on foot, following the Wicklow Way past
mountain tarns and secluded glens. In this region, don’t miss the picturesque vil-
lages of Roundwood, Laragh, and Aughrim.
In the southernmost corner of Wicklow, the mountains become hills and
share with the villages they shelter an unassuming beauty, a sleepy tranquillity
that can be a welcome respite from the bustle of Wicklow’s main tourist attrac-
tions. Near Shillelagh village are lovely forests and the curious edifice of Hunt-
ington Castle.
Just over the border of County Wicklow lies less-frequented County Carlow,
home to many a delightful surprise. Carlow, one of Ireland’s smallest counties,
is bordered by the scenic Blackstairs Mountains to the east. The fertile lime-
stone land of the Barrow Valley and the Killeshin Hills lie in the west of Carlow.
The county’s most prominent feature is the 5,000-year-old granite formation
known as Browne’s Hill Dolmen. It’s believed to have the largest capstone in
Europe, weighing a colossal 100 tons.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Irish Rail (& 01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie) provides
daily train service between Dublin and Bray and Wicklow.
Bus Eireann (& 01/836-6111) operates daily express bus service to Arklow,
Bray, and Wicklow towns. Both Bus Eireann and Gray Line Tours (& 01/605-
7705) offer seasonal sightseeing tours to Glendalough, Wicklow, and Power-
scourt Gardens.
But the best way to see Wicklow is by car, so that you can stop where you like
and let serendipity guide your way. Take the N11 south from Dublin City and
follow turnoff signs for major attractions. Or, as noted in chapter 2, “Planning
Your Trip to Ireland,” you can try out the “Route Planning” facility offered by
Ireland’s AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie). Simply plug in your starting
point and destination, with as many places in between that you’d like to visit. It
lets you avoid the rush or save money with nifty options like “avoid motorways”
and “avoid toll roads.”
VISITOR INFORMATION The Wicklow Tourist Office, Fitzwilliam
Square, Wicklow Town, County Wicklow (& 0404/69117; www.wicklow.ie), is
open Monday to Friday year-round, Saturday during peak season. The Carlow
Tourist Office, Presentation Buildings, Tullow Street, Carlow Town, County
Carlow (& 059/913-1554; www.countycarlow.com), is open Monday to Friday
year-round, 10am to 1pm and 2 to 6pm.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Altamount Gardens The lush, colorful extravagance of Altamount is the
result of 55 years of nurturing by the late Corona North. A shadowy avenue of
venerable beech trees leads to bright lawns and the splash of flowers growing
beneath ancient yew trees. Graveled walks weave around a large lake, constructed
as a famine-relief project, and the delights of this garden lie not only in its aes-
thetic and botanical diversity but also in the many birds that find sanctuary here.
The East Coast
Castleblayney Counties Louth & Meath
Carlingford
N1
Lough
Butterstream Gardens 10
1 Kilkeel
N2 Carrickmacross Lace Co-op 2
Greenore Hill of Tara 12
CAVAN 2 Dundalk
Holy Trinity Heritage
Carrickmacross L O U T H
Bailieborough
Dundalk Bay Centre 1
Knowth 6
Kingscourt Ardee Loughcrew 8
Dunleer
Virginia Millmount Museum 5
3 Clogher C l og
o g her
her Monasterboice 3
Collon Head H ea
e a d
Lough MEATH Newgrange 7
Ramor Baltray
4 Newgrange Farm 7
8 9 Kells 5 Drogheda
Old Mellifont Abbey 4
6
Crossakiel 7
N2
St. Colmcille’s House 9
N1
Duleek Balbriggan Trim Castle 11
N51
Delvin Skerries County Kildare
Athboy 10 11 12 Garristown The Curragh 31
N3 Castletown 13
Trim Rush
Swords Irish National Stud 33
Summerhill Malahide Irish Pewtermill 29
Kinnegad
Enfield Japanese Gardens 32
DUBLIN
N4 Kilcock Moone High Cross 28
Howth
Leixlip Newbridge Cutlery 30
Lucan DUBLIN
13
Steam Museum 14
Dun
Prosperous 14 Laoghaire 0 5 mi
Dalkey N
River Li f fey Bray 0 5 km
16 18
Edenderry
Newbridge Blessington 17 Enniskerry
30 15
32
33
Monasterevan N7
Kildare
31
Newtownmountkennedy
Irish
34
Emo KILDARE Roundwood Sea
NS
Portalaoise T A I Laragh Rathnew
35
Ardscull 29
27 UN 26 Wicklow
28
O 20 19
Wicklow Head
Stradbally N81 M Glenealy
Rathdrum
W
21 Brittas Bay
LO
CARLOW WICKLOW 22
Avoca
CK
23
WI
36 Aughrim
Carlow Woodenbridge
25 Tinahely Area of Detail
Tullow Arklow
N9 Shillelagh N11
Castlecomer N80 Dublin
24
Carnew
Bunclody
Gorey REPUBLIC
37
OF IRELAND
Kilkenny WEXFORD

County Laois Huntington Castle 24

Rock of Dunamase 35 Kilruddery House & Gardens 16
Slieve Bloom Environment Park 34 Mount Usher Gardens 20
National Sea Life Centre 18
Counties Wicklow & Carlow Powerscourt Gardens, House & Waterfall 17
Altamont Gardens 25 Russborough House 15
Avoca Handweavers 22 St. Mullins Monastery 37
Avondale 21 Vale of Avoca 23
Browne's Hill Dolmen 36 Wicklow Mountains National Park 27
Glendalough 26 Wicklow’s Historic Gaol 19
179
In early June, spectacular drifts of bluebells fill the forest floor on slopes
overlooking the River Slaney. The moss-green depths of the Ice Age Glen, a
rock-strewn cleft leading to the river, are currently closed to the public, but the
walk through the Glen can sometimes be made with a guide, by request—and
it’s a beautiful walk, concluding with an ascent up 100 hand-cut granite steps
through the bluebell wood, and past a small temple with fine views of the south-
ern Wicklow Mountains.
Tullow, County Carlow. & 0503/59444. www.heritageireland.ie. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2
($2.40) seniors and students, €1.25 ($1.50) children under 12, €7 ($8.45) families. Apr–Oct Mon–Thurs
9am–5pm, Fri 9am–3:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed weekends Nov–Mar.
Avondale House & Forest Park Kids In a fertile valley between Glen-
dalough and the Vale of Avoca, this is the former home of Charles Stewart Par-
nell (1846–91), one of Ireland’s great political leaders. Built in 1779, the house
is now a museum dedicated to his memory. Set in the surrounding 209-hectare
(523-acre) estate and boasting signposted nature trails alongside the Avondale
River, Avondale Forest Park is considered the cradle of modern Irish forestry. A
new exhibition area commemorates the American side of the Parnell family,
most notably Admiral Charles Stewart of the U.S.S. Constitution. The coffee
shop serves teas and light lunches, featuring homemade breads and pastries.
There’s also a children’s playground.
Off R752, Rathdrum, County Wicklow. & 0404/46111. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €4.50 ($5.40) seniors and
children under 12, €15 ($18) families. Mid-Mar to Oct 31 daily 11am–6pm. Parking €5 ($6).
Browne’s Hill Dolmen A field monument of huge proportions, the 5,000-

year-old capstone, also known as the Druid’s Altar, is believed to be the largest
in Europe. The purpose of this megalithic structure has been the subject of con-
jecture for centuries. Most likely it marks the burial place of a local king of long
ago, but it has been invested with a rich overlay of myth and legend.
Off Rathvilly Rd., Carlow, County Carlow. Admission free. Daily year-round. Access via car park and enclosed
pedestrian pathway.
Glendalough This is Wicklow’s top sight. In the 6th century, St. Kevin
chose this idyllically secluded setting—whose name derived from the Irish phrase
Gleann Da Locha, meaning “The Glen of the Two Lakes”—for a monastery.
Over the centuries, it became a leading center of learning, with thousands of stu-
dents from Ireland, Britain, and all over Europe, including St. Lawrence
O’Toole, who visited in the 12th century. But like so many early Irish religious
sites, Glendalough fell into the hands of plundering Anglo-Norman invaders,
and its glories came to an end by the 15th century.
Today, visitors can stroll from the upper lake to the lower lake and walk
through the remains of the monastery complex, long since converted to a burial
Tips Getting to Glendalough

If you plan on driving a car from Dublin to Glendalough, consider taking
R155. The trip may take a little longer, and the signage may not be the
best, but the spectacular vistas and awe-inspiring scenery are well worth
seeing. If you don’t have a car, Gray Line offers a bus tour from Dublin to
Glendalough. For information, contact Gray Line Desk, Dublin Tourism
Centre, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/605-7705; [email protected]).
COUNTY WICKLOW & COUNTY CARLOW 181
place. Although much of the monastic city is in ruins, the remains do include a
nearly perfect round tower, 31m (103 ft.) high and 16m (52 ft.) around the
base, as well as hundreds of timeworn Celtic crosses and a variety of churches.
One of these is St. Kevin’s chapel, often called St. Kevin’s Kitchen, a fine speci-
men of an early Irish barrel-vaulted oratory with a miniature round belfry rising
from a stone roof. A striking visitor center at the entrance to the site provides
helpful orientation, with exhibits on the archaeology, history, folklore, and
wildlife of the area. Unfortunately, the main entrance to the monastic complex
has been spoiled by a sprawling hotel and hawkers of various sorts, so you may
want to cross the river at the visitor center and walk along the banks. You can
cross back again at the monastic site, bypassing the trappings of commerce that
St. Kevin once fled.
County Wicklow (11km/7 miles east of Wicklow on T7 via Rathdrum). & 0404/45325 or 0404/45352.
Admission free; exhibits and audiovisual presentation €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25
($1.50) students and children under 12, €7 ($8.45) families. Mid-Oct to mid-Mar daily 9:30am–5pm; mid-
Mar to mid-Oct daily 9am–6pm.
Huntington Castle Movie buffs might recall that Stanley Kubrick used
this castle, with its famed lime-tree avenue, for the setting of his film Barry Lyn-
don. Another interesting bit of trivia: The castle is said to be the most haunted
building in Ireland, with at least 10 resident ghosts. You might find it unsur-
prising, then, that it has a lived-in feel, despite a magnificent decrepitude
derived in part from the sometimes-overwhelming assortment of debris left by
previous generations. The house has many stories to tell, and young Alexander
Durdin-Robertson, whose ancestors built the place, gives an anecdote-rich tour.
At the confluence of the rivers Derry and Slaney, this castle was of great strate-
gic importance from the time it was built, in the early 17th century. It was at the
center of conflicts in the area until the early 20th century, when the IRA briefly
used it as a headquarters. Nowadays the castle’s basement is home to a temple of
the Fellowship of Isis, a religion founded here in 1976.
Clonegal, County Carlow (off N80, 6.5km/4 miles from Bunclody). & 054/77552. Guided tour €6 ($7.50)
adults, €4 ($4.80) seniors and children 7 and older, free for children under 7. June–Aug daily 2–6pm; May
and Sept Sun 2–6pm; other times by appointment.
Kilruddery House & Gardens This estate has been the seat of the earl
of Meath since 1618. The original part of its mansion, dating from 1820, fea-
tures a Victorian conservatory modeled on the Crystal Palace in London. The
gardens are a highlight, with a lime avenue, a sylvan theater, foreign trees, exotic
shrubs, twin canals, and a fountain-filled, round pond edged with beech hedges.
They are the only surviving 17th-century French-style gardens in Ireland.
Kilruddery, Bray, County Wicklow (off the N11). & 01/286-3405. House and garden tour €8 ($9.65) adults,
€6 ($7.50) seniors and students, €3 ($3.60) children; gardens only €5 ($6) adults, €4 ($4.80) seniors and
students, €2 ($2.40) children. House May–June and Sept daily 1–5pm; gardens Apr weekends 1–5pm,
May–Aug daily 1–5pm.
Mount Usher Gardens Encompassing 8 hectares (20 acres) along the

River Vartry, this sylvan site was once home to an ancient lake and more recently
laid out in the informal, free-range “Robinsonian” style. It contains more than
5,000 tree and plant species from all parts of the world, including spindle trees
from China, North American swamp cypresses, and Burmese juniper trees. Fiery
rhododendrons, fragrant eucalyptus trees, giant Tibetan lilies, and snowy camel-
lias also compete for your attention. Informal and responsive to their natural set-
ting, these gardens have an almost untended feel—a floral woodland, without
pretense yet with considerable charm. A spacious tearoom overlooks the river
and gardens. The courtyard at the entrance to the gardens contains an interest-
ing assortment of shops, which are open year-round.
Ashford, County Wicklow (off the N11). & 0404/40116. http://homepage.eircom.net/~gardens. Admission
€6 ($7.50) adults, €5 ($6) seniors, students, and children 5–12, €22 ($27) families. Guided tours €10 ($12);
call for appointment. Mar 17–Oct 31 daily 10:30am–6pm.
National Sea Life Centre Overrated Kids Admittedly, the national aquarium
and sea park offers good family fun, but it’s woefully overpriced considering its
small size. Situated at water’s edge, the center provides a child-focused intro-
duction to the denizens of the deep. The labyrinthine path through the aquar-
ium begins with a rock tunnel carved by a winding freshwater stream; from
there, you follow the water’s course toward the open sea, from freshwater river
to tidal estuary to storm-pounded harbor and finally to the briny deep. Along
the way, kids are quizzed on what they’re learning, as they use “magic” glasses to
read coded questions and find the answers on special scratchpads they’ve been
given. One remarkable feature here is the close access visitors have to the sea life.
When you bend over and eyeball the fish, they as often as not return the favor,
surfacing and staring back only inches from your face. Once you reach “the
Deep,” the emphasis is on scary critters, like sharks (of course) and the blue-
ringed octopus. Count on spending about an hour or so here—which works out
to a pricey €.45 (55¢) a minute for a family.
Strand Rd., Bray, County Wicklow. & 01/286-6939. www.sealife.ie. Admission €8.50 ($10) adults, €6.50
($7.85) seniors and students, €5.50 ($6.60) children, €27 ($33) families. Year-round Mon–Fri 11am–5pm,
Sat–Sun 10am–6pm.
Powerscourt Gardens, House Exhibition, and Waterfall If you

only have time to visit one of Wicklow’s fabulous gardens, then let this be the
one. On a 400-hectare (1,000-acre) estate less than 19km (12 miles) south of
Dublin city, Powerscourt is one of the finest gardens in Europe, designed and
laid out by Daniel Robertson between 1745 and 1767. This property is filled
with splendid Greek- and Italian-inspired statuary, decorative ironwork, a petri-
fied-moss grotto, lovely herbaceous borders, a Japanese garden, a circular pond
and fountain with statues of winged horses, and the occasional herd of deer. Sto-
ries have it that Robertson, afflicted with gout, was pushed around the grounds
in a wheelbarrow to oversee the work. An 18th-century manor house designed
by Richard Cassels, the architect of Russborough House (see below) and the
man credited with the design of Dublin’s Parliament house, stood proudly on
the site until it was gutted by fire in 1974. The real reason to come is for the gar-
dens. Don’t opt for the additional entrance fee to “the house,” as the exhibition
consists primarily of a mediocre video on the history of Powerscourt. The cafe-
teria serves up delicious, reasonably priced lunches and a view that’s not to be
believed. The adjacent garden center is staffed with highly knowledgeable green
thumbs who can answer all your horticultural questions. If you’ve brought the
kids, they can occupy themselves at a nearby playground. The waterfall is the
highest in Ireland, at 121m (398 ft.), and is a favorite picnic spot.
Enniskerry, County Wicklow (off the N11). & 01/204-6000. Gardens and house exhibition €8 ($9.65)
adults, €7 ($8.45) seniors and students, €4.50 ($5.40) children, free for kids under 5; gardens only €6
($7.50) adults, €5.50 ($6.60) seniors and students, €3.50 ($4.20) children, free for kids under 5; waterfall
€4 ($4.80) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors and students, €3 ($3.60) children, free for kids under 5. AE, MC, V.
Gardens and house exhibition Mar–Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm, Nov–Feb daily 9:30am–dusk; waterfall
Mar–Oct daily 9:30am–7pm, Nov–Feb daily 10:30am–dusk.
Russborough House Ensconced in this 18th-century Palladian house is

the world-famous Beit Art Collection, with paintings by Vernet, Guardi, Bel-
lotto, Gainsborough, Rubens, and Reynolds. Art lovers adore the place. Trou-
ble is, thieves love it, too. Since 1974, Russborough has suffered four art
burglaries. In September 2002, thieves made away with masterpieces worth €10
million ($12 million). Most of the artworks were eventually recovered. The
house is furnished with European pieces and decorated with bronzes, tapestries,
and some fine Francini plasterwork. On the premises are a restaurant, shop, and
playground.
Blessington, County Wicklow (off N81). & 045/865239. Admission to main rooms €6 ($7.50) adults, €4.50
($5.40) seniors and students, €3 ($3.60) children under 12. Apr–Sept daily 10am–5pm. Tours given on the
hour. Closed Oct–Mar.
St. Mullin’s Monastery Finds This little gem is a well-kept secret. On a sunny
day its idyllic setting—in a sleepy hamlet beside the River Barrow, ringed by soft
carpeted hills—is reason enough for a visit. Besides that, this is a fascinating
spot, an outdoor minimuseum of sorts, spanning Irish history from the early
Christian period to the present, all in no more than several acres. There are the
ruins of a monastery founded here by St. Moling (Mullin) in roughly A.D. 614.
Plundered again and again by the Vikings in the 9th and 10 centuries, it was
annexed in the 12th century by a nearby Augustinian abbey. Here, too, is a steep
grassy motte (grove) and the outline of a bailey (the outer wall or court of a cas-
tle) constructed by the Normans in the 12th century. In the Middle Ages, the
monastery ruins were a popular destination, especially during the height of the
Black Death in 1348, when pilgrims would cross the river barefoot, circle the
burial spot of St. Mullin nine times in prayer, adding small stones to the cairn
marking the spot, and drink from the healing waters of the saint’s well. These
ruins and waters are still the site of an annual pilgrimage near or on July 25.
Adjoining the monastery buildings is an ancient cemetery still in use, where,
contrary to common practice, Protestants and Catholics have long lain side by
side. You’ll also find the graves of 20 heroes from the 1798 Rebellion, including
that of General Thomas Cloney. Even if the Heritage Centre is closed (it opens
at the discretion of the caretaker, Seamus Fitzgerald), there’s a helpful site map
and history mounted at the entrance to the cemetery. Remarkably, the ferry
across the River Barrow, instituted by St. Mullin in the 7th century, remained in
use until the 20th century, and the bell in the founder’s chapel still rings for
burials in the abbey cemetery.
On the scenic Barrow Dr., 12km (71⁄2 miles) north of New Ross, St. Mullins, County Carlow. Admission to site
free at any time.
Vale of Avoca Basically a peaceful riverbank, the Vale of Avoca was

immortalized in the writings of 19th-century poet Thomas Moore. It’s here at
the “Meeting of the Waters” that the Avonmore and Avonbeg rivers join to form
the Avoca River. It’s said that the poet sat under “Tom Moore’s Tree” looking for
inspiration and penned the lines, “There is not in the wide world a valley so
sweet / as the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet . . .” The tree itself is
a sorry sight—it’s been picked almost bare by souvenir hunters—but the place
is still worth a visit.
Rte. 755, Avoca, County Wicklow.
Wicklow Mountains National Park Nearly 20,000 hectares (50,000

acres) of County Wicklow make up this new national park. The core area
surrounds Glendalough, including the Glendalough Valley and Glendalough

Wood Nature Reserves. Hikers note: The most mountainous stretch of the
Wicklow Way cuts through this park (www.irishwaymarkedways.ie). You’ll
find an information station at the Upper Lake at Glendalough. Information is
available here on hiking in the Glendalough Valley and surrounding hills,
including maps and descriptions of routes. (See “Sports & Outdoor Pursuits,”
below, for suggestions.) Free guided nature walks—mainly through rolling
woodland—begin from the center on Tuesdays (departing 11am and returning
1:30pm) and Thursdays (departing 3pm and returning 4pm). The closest park-
ing is at Upper Lake, where you’ll pay €2 ($2.40) per car; instead, just walk up
from the Glendalough Visitor Centre, where the parking’s free.
Glendalough, County Wicklow. & 0404/45425. Visitor center admission free. Park admission €2.75 ($3.30)
adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. May–Aug daily
10am–6pm; Apr and Sept weekends only 10am–6pm. Closed Oct–Mar.
Wicklow’s Historic Gaol It’s hard to believe that Wicklow Gaol ceased
operation as a prison only as recently as 1924, after more than 2 centuries of ter-
ror. After passing under the hanging beam, visitors are lined up against the wall
of the “day room” and confronted with some dark facts of prison life in 1799,
when more than 400 prisoners, most of them rebels, occupied the jail’s 42 cells.
After being fed once every 4 days and allowed to walk in the prison yard for just
15 minutes a month, prisoners must have warmed to the idea of facing the hang-
man’s noose. Within the main cellblock, you can roam the jail’s individual cells
and visit a series of exhibitions and audiovisual presentations. The impact of
these stories is immediate and powerful for children as well as for adults, because
this jail held both. Because many prisoners were sent off to penal colonies in
Australia and Tasmania, that story, too, is told here, with the help of a stage-set
wharf and prison ship. There’s an in-house cafe, but your appetite might have
been killed off by the time you’ve finished your tour. Overall, it’s very informa-
tive and moving.
Kilmantin Hill, Wicklow Town, County Wicklow. & 0404/61599. www.wicklowshistoricgaol.com. Tour
€6.50 ($7.85) adults, €4.70 ($5.65) seniors and students, €3.75 ($4.50) children, €18 ($21) families with
up to 3 children. Apr 17–Sept daily 10am–6pm (last admission at 5pm).
SHOPPING
Wicklow and Carlow offer a wide array of wonderful craft centers and work-
shops. Here is a small sampling:
Avoca Handweavers Dating from 1723, this cluster of whitewashed stone
buildings and a mill houses the oldest surviving hand-weaving company in Ire-
land. It produces a wide range of tweed clothing, knitwear, and accessories. The
dominant tones of mauve, aqua, teal, and heather reflect the local landscape.
You’re welcome to watch as craftspeople weave strands of yarn spun from the
wool of local sheep. The weaving shed is open daily May to October from
9:30am to 5:30pm. The complex has a retail outlet and a tea shop (see “Where
to Dine,” later in this chapter). There are other branches throughout Ireland,
including one on the N11 at Kilmacanogue, Bray, County Wicklow (& 01/286-
7466), open daily 9am to 6pm. Avoca, County Wicklow. & 0402/35105. www.avoca.ie.
Bergin Clarke Studio In this little workshop, Brian Clarke hand-fashions
silver jewelry and giftware, and Yvonne Bergin knits stylish, colorful apparel
using yarns from County Wicklow. Open May to September daily 10am to
8pm; October to April Monday to Saturday 10am to 5:30pm. The Old Schoolhouse,
Ballinaclash, Rathdrum, County Wicklow. & 0404/46385.
Fisher’s of Newtownmountkennedy This shop, in a converted school-

house, stocks a wide array of men’s and women’s sporting clothes—quilted jack-
ets, raincoats, footwear, blazers, and accessories. There’s also a new tearoom.
Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 5:30pm, Sunday 2 to 6pm. The Old School-
house, Newtownmountkennedy, County Wicklow. & 01/281-9404.
The Woolen Mills Glendalough This long-established crafts shop in a con-
verted farmhouse offers handcrafts from all over Ireland, such as Bantry Pottery
and Penrose Glass from Waterford. Books, jewelry, and a large selection of hand-
knits from the area are also sold. Open daily 9:30am to 6:30pm. Laragh, County
Wicklow. & 0404/45156.
SPORTS & OUTDOOR PURSUITS

CYCLING The Lorum Old Rectory (see below, under “Where to Stay”) is also
the base for Celtic Cycling (& 059/977-5282; www.celticcycling.com; see chap-
ter 3, “Ireland Outdoors”), which offers an array of 1- and 2-week cycling tours,
or simply the gear you need to go it alone, with or without accommodations.
The “sunny south” (not always, but offering better odds than most), with its
rolling hills and gentle breezes, is great cycling country, and this outfit will help
you make the most of it. In addition, Cycling Safaris (& 01/260-0749; fax
01/716-1168; www.cyclingsafaris.com) offers a 4-day/3-night tour of Wicklow
for €345 ($416), including accommodations, dinners, and luggage transfers.
FISHING During brown-trout season (Mar 15–Sept 30), you’ll find lots of
angling opportunities on the Aughrim River (contact Arie Van Derwel; & 0402/
36753 or 087/920-2751) and on the Avonmore River (contact Peter Driver in
Rathdrum; & 0404/46304 or 087/978-7040). The Dargle River flows from
Enniskerry to the sea at Bray and offers great sea-trout fishing in season from
February 1 to October 12 (contact Hugh Duff in Enniskerry; & 01/286-8652).
Unfortunately, the Avoca River south of the Meeting of the Waters is polluted
due to old copper mines and is unsuitable for fishing. Shore angling is hugely
popular from beaches along the coast; contact the Irish Federation of Sea
Anglers (& 01/280-6873) for information on how to obtain permits.
GOLF County Wicklow’s verdant hills and dales offer ample opportunity for
golfing. If you’re looking for cachet, head to the championship Druids Glen
Golf Club, Newtonmountkennedy (& 01/287-3600; www.druidsglen.ie), an
inland beauty of a course that bears more than a fleeting resemblance to Augusta
and was European Golf Course of the Year in 2000. Greens fees are €150
($181) daily if you arrive after 9am; early-bird greens fees, from 7:30 to 8:50am,
are €105 ($126). Nearby, the seaside European Club, Brittas Bay (& 0404/
47415), is a championship links (ranked 24th in the world) with daily greens
fees of €125 ($151) year-round. For a more affordable day out, try the parkland
Glenmalure Golf Club, Greenane, Rathdrum (& 0404/46679; www.
glenmalure.com), where greens fees are €25 ($30) weekdays and €35 ($42)
weekends. The Arklow Golf Club (& 0402/32492), a seaside par-68 course,
charges greens fees of €40 ($48).
HORSEBACK RIDING With its valleys, glens, secluded paths, and nature
trails, County Wicklow is a dream for horseback riding. More than a dozen sta-
bles and equestrian centers offer horses for hire and instructional programs.
Rates for horse hire average €25 ($30) per hour. Among the leading venues
are Broomfield Riding School, Broomfield, Tinahely (& 0402/38117), and
Brennanstown Riding School, Hollybrook, Kilmacanogue (& 01/286-3778).
At the Paulbeg Riding School, Shillelagh (& 055/29100), experienced riders

can explore the beautiful surrounding hills, and beginners can receive expert
instruction from Sally Duffy, a friendly woman who gives an enthusiastic intro-
duction to the sport.
Devil’s Glen Holiday and Equestrian Village, Ashford, County Wicklow
(& 0404/40637; www.devilsglen.ie), splendidly situated at the edge of Devil’s
Glen, offers a full range of equestrian opportunities, from lessons to jumping to
trekking to cross-country. Accommodations are offered in spotless, spacious,
fully equipped, self-catering two-bedroom apartments, two-bedroom bunga-
lows, and three-bedroom cottages. This makes a great base from which to
explore the Wicklow Mountains and coastline, whether or not you ever climb
into a saddle. Weekly rates run from €355 to €875 ($428–$1,054), depending
on season and size of unit. Weekend (Fri–Sun) and midweek (Mon–Thurs) rates
are also available. Most lessons and rides cost €25 ($30) per hour. Both the
equestrian center and the self-catering village are open year-round.
HUNTING The Broomfield Riding School, Broomfield, Tinahely (& 0402/
38117), offers access to the hunt for those who can demonstrate adequate
equestrian skills, including jumping. The riding school is open year-round for
lessons and trail rides.
WALKING The Wicklow Way is a 132km (82-mile) signposted walking
path that follows forest trails, sheep paths, and country roads from the suburbs
south of Dublin, up into the Wicklow Mountains, and down through country
farmland to the trail’s terminus in Clonegal. It takes about 5 to 7 days to walk
its entirety, with overnight stops at B&Bs and hostels along the route. Most peo-
ple choose to walk sections as day trips.
You can pick up information and maps at the Wicklow National Park center
in Glendalough and at any local tourist office. Information on less strenuous
walks can be found in the Wicklow Trail Sheets, which provides a map and
route description for several short walks and is available at tourist offices.
The most spectacular walks in Wicklow are in the north and central parts of
the county, an area traversed by the Wicklow Way and numerous short trails.
One lovely walk on the Way begins at the Deerpark parking lot near the Dar-
gle River and continues to Luggala, passing Djouce Mountain; the next section,
between Luggala and Laragh, traverses some wild country around Lough Dan.
St. Kevin’s Way, one of the oldest pilgrim routes in Ireland, for a period
stretching back more than 1,000 years, has recently been restored. The path runs
for 30km (18 miles) through scenic countryside from Hollywood to Glen-
dalough, following the route taken by pilgrims visiting the ancient monastic city
of Glendalough, and winds its way through a combination of roads, forest paths,
and open mountainside. It takes in many of the historical sites associated with
St. Kevin, who traveled the route in search of a mountain hermitage, as well as
areas of geological interest and scenic beauty.
For folks who prefer less strenuous walking, a wonderful option is the south-
ern section of the Wicklow Way, through Tinahely, Shillelagh, and Clonegal.
Although not as rugged as the terrain in central Wicklow, the hills here are
voluptuously round, with delightful woods and glens hidden in their folds.
Through much of this section, the path follows country roads that have been
chosen for their lack of vehicular traffic. Consider treating yourself to a night at
Park Lodge B&B, Clonegal, Shillelagh (& 055/29140; parklodge@hotmail.
com), near the trail’s terminus; double rooms run €70 ($84) per night. For
longer stays, there’s a new self-catering apartment available for €200 to €350
($240–$422) per week. If you’re on foot, the hospitable Osborne family can
arrange to pick you up at one of several points along the trail between Shillelagh
and Clonegal.
WATERSPORTS & ADVENTURE SPORTS Serenely set in the foothills of
the Wicklow Mountains, the Blessington Lakes, created by a dam completed in
1940 for the Electricity Supply Board, are a 2,000-hectare (5,000-acre) play-
ground of tranquil, clean, speedboat-free water. Less than an hour’s drive from
Dublin center, and signposted on N81, the Blessington Adventure Centre,
Blessington, County Wicklow (& 045/865800), offers water-based activities
such as canoeing, kayaking, sailing, and windsurfing. On land, there’s archery,
orienteering, tennis, pony trekking, and riding lessons for all levels. Some rep-
resentative prices per hour for adults are €15 ($18) for canoeing and kayaking,
€20 ($24) for sailing, windsurfing, and pony trekking. Full- and half-day multi-
activity prices are also available, and lower children’s prices are available. Open
daily 10am to 5pm.
For the more adventurous, the National Mountain and Whitewater Centre,
The Devil’s Glen Forest, Ashford, County Wicklow (& 0404/40169; www.
tiglin.com), is an innovative state-funded facility that offers weekend courses in
white-water kayaking, mountaineering, and rock climbing in locations around
Ireland. Basic equipment is provided; fees for 1- to 5-day courses range from
€80 to €450 ($96–$542). The center attracts a young clientele, and lodging is
in hostels unless you arrange otherwise.
WHERE TO STAY
EXPENSIVE
Rathsallagh House Hotel & Golf Club It’s only an hour’s drive from
Dublin, but any trace of city tension or travel fatigue evaporates as soon as you
cross the threshold of Rathsallagh House. A recent recipient of the American
Express Best-Loved Hotels of the World award, this country-house hotel has a
particularly warm, welcoming, unpretentious feel to it; it’s a splendid place to
relax and recharge. Converted from Queen Anne stables in 1798, the rambling,
ivy-covered country house sits amid
212 hectares (530 acres) of parkland
with its own walled garden and is sur- Tips Service Charges
rounded by Rathsallagh Golf Course. A reminder: Unless otherwise
The general mood here is cheerful and noted, room rates don’t include
easygoing, with log or turf fires roaring service charges (usually 10%–
in the public lounge areas. Return 15% of your bill).
guests request their favorite rooms by
name—the Buttercup, the Romantic,
the Over Arch, or the Yellow Room, whose bathtub is set in an alcove. Rooms
are priced according to size, starting with standard rooms, which are rather
cramped. A superior room costs €40 ($48) more but offers considerably more
space. Most rooms have a sitting area, a huge walk-in closet, and window seats,
and some have Jacuzzis. There are good reading lamps over the beds and antique
furnishings throughout the hotel. Note that Rathsallagh does not cater to chil-
dren under 12.
Dunlavin, County Wicklow. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 045/403112. Fax 045/403343. www.rathsallagh
househotel.com. 29 units. €250 ($301) double. Rates include full breakfast. Fixed 5-course dinner €60 ($75).
Greens fees: €50–€60 ($60–$75). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Dec 23–31. No children under 12 accepted. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant (modern Continental); lounge/bar; small indoor pool; 18-hole championship golf course;
tennis court; sauna; archery; billiards; croquet; steam room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Moments A Gourmet Garden Party
On the first Sunday of each month (weather permitting), the Brook

Lodge Hotel (see below) hosts a gourmet market on its grounds, sell-
ing everything you need to put together a delicious picnic and join Ire-
land’s chicest garden party. Grab one of the tables or lay your blanket
on the grass, then kick back and enjoy the live music, open-air art exhi-
bitions, and bevy of farmyard animals roaming around for children to
play with. There are stalls selling wonderful homemade breads, delec-
table farmhouse cheeses, champagne and smoothies, frittatas, tape-
nades and chutneys, organic ice cream, and many other epicurean
delights. It’s a fabulous way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
Tinakilly Country House & Restaurant Tinakilly is one of Ireland’s

most relaxing, sought-after small hotels—the kind of place the Irish come to cel-
ebrate an anniversary or special event, and the kind of place that remains in your
memory long after you’ve departed. Everything conspires to spoil you: luxurious
accommodations, attentive service, and an award-winning restaurant. Dating
from the 1870s, this was the home of Capt. Robert Charles Halpin, commander
of the Great Eastern, who laid the first successful cable connecting Europe with
America. With a sweeping central staircase said to be the twin of the one on the
ship, Tinakilly is full of seafaring memorabilia, paintings, and Victorian
antiques. Every room is unique and in keeping with the Victorian style; most
have either four-poster or half-tester canopy beds. The best have views of the
Irish Sea. Don’t be daunted by the wide selection of rooms here, from doubles
to junior suites to Captain’s Suites, because you really can’t go wrong. The Cap-
tain’s Suites are quite grand (with enormous bathrooms), but even the standard
doubles are cozy and charming in the true sense of the word. The restaurant,
Brunel (p. 193), is duly famous for ennobling the “Irish country house” style of
cooking—think modern, French-influenced dishes that use the freshest Irish
produce available. Since opening in the 1980s, Tinakilly House has garnered a
wall of prestigious awards, including being ranked no. 75 in the “Top 100
Hotels of the World” by the London Times several years ago.
On R750, off the Dublin-Wexford rd. (N11), Rathnew, County Wicklow. & 800/525-4800 in the U.S. or
0404/69274. Fax 0404/67806. www.tinakilly.ie. 51 units. €208–€256 ($251–$308) double; €258–€326
($311–$393) junior suite; €346–€436 ($417–$525) Captain’s Suite with sea view. Rates include full break-
fast and VAT. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (modern country house); lounge. In room: TV, hair dryer,
radio.
Brook Lodge Hotel & Wells Spa Value This place just gets better and
better. There may be no more luxurious place to stay in Ireland in this price
range. Brook Lodge is a revolutionary idea in Ireland—not so much a hotel as a
planned village built from scratch to include accommodations, fine dining, good
pubs (nearby Acton’s is a microbrewery), a chapel, a bakery, landscaped gardens,
and a half dozen or so shops selling homemade wines, jams, crafts, and the like.
The hotel itself is luxurious, modern, and comfortable, done up in warm,
energized colors. Rooms have firm king-size four-poster beds, wood-paneled
window seats, deep tubs, quality linens, and contemporary furnishings of natu-
ral elements. The chic mezzanine suites have king-size beds, plasma TV screens,
and contemporary furnishings to rival any New York boutique hotel. Service is
excellent and the personal touch extends to a decidedly Irish nightly turndown:
chocolates on your pillow and a hot-water bottle between the sheets. The hotel’s
flagship is The Strawberry Tree restaurant—a gourmet, all-organic restaurant
transplanted from Killarney, County Kerry (see “Where to Dine,” below). The
latest addition to this holistic oasis is The Wells, a €6-million ($7.5-million) spa
that boasts Finnish baths, mud baths, hot tubs, Jacuzzis, indoor and outdoor
pools, a Hammam, a flotation room, and all sorts of massage therapies and skin
treatments. From Rathdrum, follow signs for Aughrim and then 3km (2 miles)
to Macreddin Village and the Brook Lodge Hotel. You can often get fantastic
discounts by booking online.
Macreddin Village (between Aughrim and Aghavannagh), County Wicklow. & 0402/36444. Fax 0402/
36580. www.brooklodge.com. 54 units. €170–€240 ($205–$289) double; €360 ($434) suite. Rates include
service charge and full Irish breakfast. Fixed-price 4-course dinner €55 ($66); 3-course Sun lunch €35 ($42).
AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (organic, cafe); 2 pubs; full-service spa; laundry service. In room: TV,
hair dryer.
M O D E R AT E
Clone House Clone House was built in the 1600s, then burned down in
the 1798 Revolution, and rebuilt in 1805. The house has changed hands several
times since then, but today Jeff and Carla Watson run the place with panache.
Carla was raised in Tuscany and has given the house a Mediterranean elegance.
The guest rooms have a salubrious, Italianate feel, featuring king-size beds, tra-
ditional wood floors, and richly colored fabrics on the curtains and bed
canopies. Small luxuries like thick cotton towels, chocolates, and fresh fruit
make you feel pampered. The best room, the Vale of Avoca, has a skylight above
the bed and a working fireplace. As luck would have it, Carla is a superb cook,
treating her guests to five-course gourmet meals that may include stuffed quails
wrapped in pancetta, osso buco, and an irresistible focaccia bread.
Aughrim, County Wicklow. & 0402/36121. Fax 0402/36029. www.clonehouse.com. 7 units, all with private
bathroom. €130–€180 ($157–$217) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €45–€55 ($54–$66). MC,
V. Amenities: Bar; small gym; sauna. In room: Tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Glendalough Hotel Without spending the night in a round tower, you can’t
get any closer to St. Kevin’s digs than this seasoned, veteran inn situated in a
wooded glen at the very entrance to Glendalough, beside the Glendasan River
and within the Wicklow Mountains National Park. Dating from the 1800s, it
was refurbished and updated in the mid-1990s with traditional Irish furnishings
and standard modern comforts. This was once a sleepy and idyllic spot, but it is
now rather overrun with tourists, their buses, and all that caters to them.
Glendalough, County Wicklow. & 800/365-3346 in the U.S. or 0404/45135. Fax 0404/45142. 44 units.
€130–€170 ($157–$205) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Jan. Amenities: Restau-
rant (Irish/Continental); pub. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Tips Phoning around in Wicklow

Many phone numbers in Wicklow have changed in the past year and more
changes are in the pipeline. If you have trouble getting through to one of
the numbers listed, call directory assistance at & 11811.
Kilgraney Country House Pass through the Georgian front door, and
the eclectic tastes of the proprietors, Martin Marley and Bryan Leech, take over.
High ceilings and ocher walls complement the bold lines of 20th-century draw-
ings and hammered metal furniture of Asian influence. Rooms are soothing and
simple and demonstrate a careful consideration of the tactile as well as the visual,
but even here the unexpected slips in: Perhaps the light pull is a horn-headed
cane, or a Thai puppet waves from a bedside table. Such attention to detail
invites a slow, lingering sojourn. Dinner, served communal-style on a long table
of Kilkenny black marble, is also a fusion of old and new, of the exotic and the
traditionally Irish—wild salmon is wrapped with a band of Japanese seaweed,
and a creamy potato soup is laced with curry. The ritual of dinner and the con-
versation it inspires means that the meal can last well into the night. Breakfasts
are equally satisfying—perhaps raisin-and-orange pancakes as a first course,
a truly superlative soda bread, and more standard second-course offerings of
scrambled eggs with salmon or bacon and sausage.
Just off the R705 (L18), 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) from Bagenalstown on the Borris rd., Bagenalstown, County Car-
low. & 059/977-5283. Fax 059/977-5595. www.kilgraneyhouse.com. 6 units, all with private bathroom (4
with shower only). €90–€130 ($108–$157) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €40 ($48). AE, MC,
V. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Lounge; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, hair dryer.
The Lord Bagenal Inn This storybook country inn has heaps of real
charm—an old stone entrance archway, a lovely location alongside the Barrow
River, and prices that won’t break the bank. It’s difficult to imagine two more
courteous and hospitable innkeepers than James and Mary Kehoe, who offer a
dozen adorably prim rooms featuring half-tester beds and chic country fabrics.
The multi-award-winning restaurant delivers exceptionally good, modern
country fare—French-influenced classics created with fresh local produce—and
offers a particularly good value. Overall, this is a great address to know about
when you want to unwind and be comforted. And, if you’ve got the kids along,
the outdoor playground is a perfect antidote for those sick-of-the-car blues.
Main St., Leighlinbridge, County Carlow. & 059/972-1668. Fax 059/972-2629. www.lordbagenal.com. 12
units. €110–€125 ($133–$151) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (modern
country); pub; boat hire. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Lorum Old Rectory Set well back from the road and surrounded by cul-
tivated fields, rolling pastures, and casual gardens in the serene Barrow Valley,
the Old Rectory stands weathered and welcoming. Its hallmarks are hospitality
and cuisine, both unforgettable. There is something contagious about the con-
geniality of this house. Bobbie Smith and her daughters are the consummate
hostesses, perhaps because they love doing what they do. Bobbie is a standout
chef and the meals here are memorable. The individual bedrooms, like siblings,
are all of a piece, even as each holds its own. All are spacious, clean, comfortable,
and peaceful, with half- or full-canopy beds, and are gifted with lovely views of
the sensuous Carlow countryside. Smoking is not permitted in bedrooms or in
the dining room, but smokers have their own cozy snug, complete with fire-
place. There’s a small gift shop just for guests, displaying the work of local arti-
sans, including Bobbie. This is a place to which you will find yourself returning,
either in happy memory or in fact.
Just off the R705 (L18), 7km (41⁄3 miles) from Bagenalstown on the Borris rd., Bagenalstown, County Carlow.
& 059/977-5282. Fax 059/977-5455. www.lorum.com. 5 units, all with private bathroom (with shower
only). €120–€150 ($145–$181) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €38 ($46). AE, MC, V. Closed
Dec–Feb. Amenities: Drawing room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
INEXPENSIVE
Derrybawn Mountain Lodge This elegant, comfortable fieldstone manor
house in an idyllic parkland setting looks out over the surrounding hills. The
rooms are spacious, bright, tastefully furnished, and outfitted with orthopedic
beds. Located just outside Laragh village, the place is convenient to fishing
streams and hiking trails (including the Wicklow Way), and a great place from
which to explore Wicklow’s natural wonders.
Laragh, County Wicklow. & 0404/45644. Fax 0404/45645. 8 units. €80–€90 ($96–$108) double. Rates
include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Recreation/billiards room; nonsmoking rooms; sitting room.
In room: TV.
Sherwood Park House An 18th-century Georgian country house and

working farm, Sherwood Park is a place of green fields, distant mountains, the
promise of hot tea, and real sheep to count from the warmth of a canopy bed
piled high with pillows. There are only four guest rooms. All are comfortably
large, and the two on the second floor have smaller, adjoining rooms with twin
beds that are perfect for children. Guests are invited to use the sitting room,
where peat fills the fireplace and an old piano sits in the corner, ready to com-
mand center stage when played by guests. Patrick and Maureen Owens are the
genial hosts, and they help create a festive occasion of even the rainiest evening.
Maureen prepares the dinner, served in a high-ceilinged dining room. Conver-
sation is encouraged as everyone is seated together at a long polished table,
although it’s difficult to get beyond contented murmurs over soup made from
vegetables grown on the estate or delighted exclamations about the flavor of
homemade strawberry ice cream.
Kilbride, Ballon, County Carlow (off the N80, 3km/1.8 miles south of Ballon). & 059/915-9117. Fax 059/
915-9355. 4 units. €90 ($108) double. Discount for children. Dinner €35 ($42). AE, MC, V. Amenities: Sitting
room. In room: TV.
Slievemore This mid-19th-century harbor house offers white-glove cleanli-

ness, spacious comfort, and (if you book early and request a seafront room) a
commanding view of Greystones Harbor, Bray Head, and the Irish Sea. Propri-
etor Pippins Parkinson says that “people stumble on Greystones, find it by acci-
dent.” But forget relying on serendipity.
The Harbour, Greystones (signposted on N11), County Wicklow. & 01/287-4724. www.slievemorehouse.
com. 8 units (all with shower only). €65–€70 ($78–$84) double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. No credit
cards. Bus: 84. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV.
Tudor Lodge This B&B, set on the slopes of the Wicklow Mountains,
makes an especially attractive base from which to see the area. The whitewashed
walls are fresh and inviting, with wooden ceiling beams recalling the rusticity of
a country cottage. Bedrooms are spacious, and each has a small desk as well as
both a double and a single bed. The dining room and living room are equally
hospitable, with large windows opening onto views of green meadows and
mountains. A brick fireplace and beamed ceilings make the living room a cozy
retreat. In the summer, you can relax on the generous stone terrace or riverside
patio overlooking the Avonmore River. There is an appetizing array of breakfast
choices, and they will also prepare dinner for larger groups. Otherwise, the
restaurants and pubs of Laragh are a short and scenic walk away.
Laragh, County Wicklow. &/fax 0404/45554. www.tudorlodgeireland.com. 6 units, all with private bath-
room (shower only). €70–€75 ($84–$90) double. MC, V. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms; living room; sun-
room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Fortgranite Fortgranite is—and has been for centuries—a working farm in the
rolling foothills of the Wicklow Mountains. Its meadows and stately trees create a
sublime retreat. Its unique stone cottages, formerly occupied by the estate’s work-
ers, are being restored and refurbished with appreciable care and charm by M. P.
Dennis. Three are available to rent for a week or longer. The gate lodges—Doyle’s
and Lennon’s—each have one double bedroom fully equipped with all essentials.
The third, Stewards’s House, sleeps four and is furnished with lovely antiques. All
have open fireplaces, and each has its own grounds and garden. Tranquillity,
charm, and warmth are the operative concepts at Fortgranite, so those in search of
something grand and luxurious will be disappointed. Think “cottage” and “char-
acter” and you will be delighted. Also, it’s best to plan ahead because word is out,
and availability is at a premium. Golf, fishing, hiking, horse racing and riding, and
clay-pigeon shooting can all be found nearby. Smoking is discouraged.
Baltinglass, County Wicklow. (4.8km/3 miles southeast of Baltinglass on R747). & 059/648-1396. Fax 059/
647-3510. 3 cottages. €300–€600 ($360–$750) per week. No credit cards. In room: TV, kitchen, no telephone.
Manor Kilbride Gracefully situated amid 16 hectares (40 acres) of mature

gardens and wooded walks in the Wicklow Mountain foothills, just 29km (18
miles) from Dublin, Margaret Cully’s manor is a haven of charm and cordiality.
The grounds include two small lakes and a stretch of the River Brittas. Four
lovely stone self-catering cottages are available. The two courtyard cottages and
the river lodge each sleep four; the gate lodge is better suited to a couple. These
are chic cottages, with original beams, exposed stone walls, and every amenity.
The Cullys are rather lavish in their welcome baskets, so there’s no need for an
immediate trip to the market.
N. Blessington, County Wicklow (on N81 6.5km/4 miles north of Blessington, take Kilbride/Sally Gap turn,
then left at sign for Sally Gap). & 01/458-2105. Fax 01/458-2607. 4 cottages. Cottages €400–€650
($480–$783) per week year-round. AE, MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen, microwave, washing machine.
Tynte House Kids Dunlavin is a sleepy three-pub town in western Wick-

low, 48km (30 miles) southwest of Dublin. It’s as convenient as it is peaceful.
Tynte House, a lovingly preserved 19th-century family farm complex with new
apartment units and holiday cottages, offers an attractive array of options for
overnight and longer-term guests. The driving force is Mrs. Caroline Lawler,
“brought up in the business” of divining visitors’ needs and surpassing their
expectations. In 2000 she was named one of the top 20 “landladies” in the
United Kingdom and Ireland.
The self-catering mews (renovated stables) houses have one to three bed-
rooms; the apartments hold one or two bedrooms; and the four new cottages
range from two to four bedrooms and have working fireplaces. All are brilliantly
designed and furnished with one eye on casual efficiency and the other on good
taste. They have bold, bright color schemes, light pine furniture, and spacious
tiled bathrooms. The no. 3 mews house and the open-plan apartment are
favorites, but none will disappoint. This makes a great home base for families,
with a grassy play area and treehouse, an outdoor barbecue and picnic tables, a
tennis court, and a game room with Ping-Pong and pool tables. Exact prices
depend on the season and the size of the unit. Shorter stays and weekend dis-
counts are available in the off season.
Dunlavin center, County Wicklow. & 045/401561. Fax 045/401586. www.tyntehouse.com. 7 units, 4 homes,
4 apts, 4 cottages. Self-catering units €230–€520 ($277–$627) per week. Dinner €25 ($30). AE, MC, V. In
room: TV, kitchen, dishwasher, microwave, washer/dryer.
Wicklow Head Lighthouse Finds This 18th-century octagonal light-

house, situated on Wicklow Head just 3.2km (2 miles) from Wicklow Town,
makes for a very unique getaway. The lighthouse was established in 1781, then
struck by lightning and subsequently gutted by fire in 1836. It remained a neg-
lected shell until the Irish Landmark Trust (ILT), whose mission is to rescue neg-
lected historic buildings, transformed it into a wonderful place to get away from
it all. The interior is chic rustic with whitewashed walls, pine furnishings, brass
beds, and nautical memorabilia. There are five floors, each of which is an octag-
onal room: two double bedrooms, one bathroom, one sitting room, and the
kitchen. The ground floor also has a sitting area and a small bathroom. Every
window has a view to make even the most cynical jaw drop, and the sitting room
is equipped with a telescope (great for watching seals frolicking below, or fish-
ing trawlers returning home in the evening). Like all ILT properties, there is no
TV. One caveat: The spiral staircase that corkscrews up the tower is not suitable
for folks with hampered mobility or children under age 5.
Wicklow, County Wicklow. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust & 01/670-4733. Fax 01/670-4887. www.irish
landmark.com. €440 ($530) for 4 nights in low season, sliding up to €1,175 ($1,416) per week in high sea-
son. Amenities: Kitchen.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
Brunel Restaurant MODERN COUNTRY This excellent restaurant,
which Bon Appétit magazine once called “a beacon to restore hope to the traveller’s
heart,” has won as many accolades as the Tinakilly Country House hotel, to which
it belongs (see above). The table d’hôte menu changes daily and is confidently
balanced—sophisticated without being fussy; elegant without acrobatics. The
service, too, is precise and intuitive, letting the ritual follow its own course. All
this makes for a meal you remember, like the chargrilled tiger prawns and lemon
grass with fennel oil, the cream of roast chestnut and celery soup, the caramelized
scallops on saffron potato mash, and the loin of Wicklow lamb. The wine list is
vast and, while international, focuses on France. If dinner here is out of your
budget, consider coming for a light lunch (1–3pm) or afternoon tea (3–5pm).
In Tinakilly Country House. Rathnew, County Wicklow (on R750, off the N11). & 0404/69274. Dinner main
courses €24–€29 ($29–$35). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 7:30–9pm; Sun 1–8pm.
The Strawberry Tree GOURMET ORGANIC Winner of the Irish

Food & Wine’s Best Restaurant award in 2003, this place has gone from innovative
to iconic in a few short years. Only wild and organic foods are used to prepare
memorable meals and then served up in a swish, dramatic dining room. Starters
make for interesting reading—and eating—and might include grilled asparagus,
confit tomato, and blue cheese cream or the unlikely sounding but delectable
combination of goat’s cheese, focaccia, roast pears, and red wine. Then try the
beef filet with buttered beetroot, served in a balsamic jus, or the wild guinea fowl
served alongside dried fruit compote. From Rathdrum, follow signs for Augh-
rim and then 3km (2 miles) to Macreddin Village and the Brook Lodge Hotel.
Macreddin Village (between Aughrim and Aghavannagh), County Wicklow. & 0402/36444. Fax 0402/
36580. www.brooklodge.com. Reservations required. Fixed-price dinner €55 ($66); Sun lunch €35 ($42).
MC, V. Wed–Sat 7–9:30pm; Sun 1–2:30pm.
The Tree of Idleness GREEK/CYPRIOT Chef Susan Courtellas comes

from a Greek Cypriot background—a fact she gleefully celebrates with ingredi-
ents you don’t run across often on Irish menus. All the noble peasant classics are
here—moussaka, taramasalata, roast suckling pig—each executed perfectly and
with flair. This is a fun dining room, and it fills with a buzzy, energized clientele
each evening. Leave room for one of the meltaway desserts.
Seafront, Bray, County Wicklow. & 01/286-3498. Dinner main courses €19–€24 ($23–$29). AE, MC, V.
Tues–Sun 7:30–11pm.
M O D E R AT E
Hungry Monk Wine Bar INTERNATIONAL This place has been
around for a long time, but it continues to pull new fans because of its no-non-
sense approach to good food and wine. If you’re in the mood for a nice, three-
course meal, then head upstairs to the upscale restaurant. Downstairs, at the
wine bar, is where you come for a one-plate dinner and a bottle of nice wine. No
wildly complicated or sophisticated dishes here, just good, honest, middle-of-
the-road food at middle-of-the-road prices—something that is, sadly, becoming
harder to find in Ireland. Think seafood chowder, vegetarian spring rolls, Bom-
bay chicken curry, goujons of plaice, and scampi. Everything is good, but the
Monk Burger, served with onion rings and extra cheese, is especially recom-
mendable. The wines are well chosen and affordable, the service unobtrusive and
correct, the crowd cheerful and enthusiastic.
Church Rd., Greystones, County Wicklow. & 01/287-5759. Main courses €13–€18 ($16–$22). MC, V.
Wed–Sat 7–11pm; Sun 12:30–8pm.
Roundwood Inn IRISH/CONTINENTAL Dating from 1750, this old

coaching inn is the one of the best reasons to head to Roundwood, a place of
unspoiled mountain beauty. It has an old-world atmosphere, with open log fire-
places and antique furnishings. Nearly everything is home-baked or locally
grown or raised—from steaks and sandwiches to traditional Irish stew, fresh lob-
ster and salmon from Greystones, and seafood pancakes. In good weather there’s
a lovely, secluded garden to sit in, and in the bar between meal times, there’s out-
standing pub grub.
Main St. (R755), Roundwood, County Wicklow. & 01/281-8107. Reservations recommended for dinner.
Main courses €20–€30 ($24–$36). MC, V. Wed–Fri 7–9:30pm; Sat–Sun 1–2:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Avoca Handweavers Tea Shop BISTRO/VEGETARIAN Forget for a
moment that this is an informal cafeteria—at a tourist magnet, no less. It is a
great place to eat, virtually guaranteed to deliver one of the better meals on your
trip. The menu changes frequently, but starters might include a delicate pea-
and-mint soup or the terrific Caesar salad. Main courses might offer sesame-
glazed chicken, honey-roasted ham, Mediterranean sweet frittata, or smoked
Wicklow trout. The tea shop attracts a loyal local clientele, in addition to the
busloads of visitors who come to shop.
Avoca, County Wicklow. & 0402/35105. Lunch €4–€10 ($4.80–$12). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9am–5pm.
Poppies Country Cooking IRISH HOME-STYLE This 12-table self-serv-

ice eatery opposite the main square is justifiably popular for light meals and
snacks all day. With the warm, familiar feel of a neighbor’s kitchen—that is, a
neighbor who can really cook—this is a local hangout. From fist-size whole-
grain scones to vegetarian nut roast, the portions are generous. The menu ranges
from homemade soups and salads to hominy pie, nut roast, baked salmon, veg-
etarian quiche, and lasagna. A new management team has recently brought in a
good range of coffees and herbal teas. You’ll find a second branch of Poppies on
Trafalgar Road, in Greystones (& 01/287-4228).
Enniskerry, County Wicklow. & 01/282-8869. Lunch €4–€9 ($4.80–$11). MC, V. Daily 8:30am–6pm.
C O U N T Y K I L DA R E : I R E L A N D ’ S H O R S E C O U N T RY 195
PUBS
Cartoon Inn With walls displaying the work of many famous cartoonists, this
cottagelike pub claims to be the country’s only cartoon-themed pub. It’s the
headquarters for Ireland’s Cartoon Festival, held in late May or early June each
year. Pub grub is available at lunchtime. Main St., Rathdrum, County Wicklow. & 0404/
46774.
The Coach House Adorned with lots of colorful hanging flowerpots, this
Tudor-style inn sits in the mountains, in the heart of Ireland’s highest village.
Dating from 1790, it is full of local memorabilia, from old photos and agricul-
tural posters to antique jugs and plates. It’s well worth a visit, whether to learn
about the area or to get some light refreshment. Main St., Roundwood, County Wick-
low. & 01/281-8157. www.thecoachhouse.ie.
The Meetings This Tudor-style country-cottage pub stands idyllically at the
“Meeting of the Waters” associated with poet Thomas Moore. An 1889 edition
of Moore’s book of poems is on display. Good pub grub is served daily, with tra-
ditional Irish music April to October every Sunday afternoon (4–6pm), and
weekend nights all year. Avoca, County Wicklow. & 0402/35557.
2 County Kildare: Ireland’s Horse Country

County Kildare is 24 to 48km (15–30 miles) W of Dublin
A TV quiz show host once asked a Kildare man if he knew who wrote Gone With
the Wind. “No, but I can tell you who trained him,” came the reply. Old jokes
aside, Kildare is synonymous with horse racing. It’s home of the Curragh (pro-
nounced Ker-ah), the racetrack where the Irish Derby is held in late June, and
smaller tracks at Naas and Punchestown. County Kildare is also the heartland of
Ireland’s flourishing bloodstock industry and the National Stud. In this
panorama of open grasslands and limestone-enriched soil, you’ll find many of
Ireland’s 300 stud farms.
Once the stronghold of the Fitzgerald Clan, Kildare got its name from Cill
Dara, which means Church of the Oak Tree, a reference to St. Brigid’s monastery,
which sat beneath an oak tree. Brigid was a bit ahead of her time as an early
exponent for women’s equality—she founded her coed monastery in the 5th or
6th century.
Kildare’s rolling countryside is very pretty but also less diverse than nearby
Wicklow.
ESSENTIALS
daily train service to Kildare.
Bus Eireann (& 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily express
bus service to Kildare.
By car, take the main Dublin-Limerick road (N7) west of Dublin from Kil-
dare, or the main Dublin-Galway road (N4) to Celbridge, turning off on local
road R403.
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Wicklow Tourist Office, Wicklow
Town (& 0404/69117). It’s open year-round Monday to Friday, and Saturday
during peak season. There is also a seasonal (mid-May to Sept) information
office on The Square, Kildare Town, County Kildare (& 045/522696).
SEEING THE SIGHTS

Castletown Castletown—designed by Italian architect Alessandro Galilei
for William Connolly (1662–1729), then speaker of the Irish House of Com-
mons—is the grandest Palladian-style mansion in Ireland. In a 1722 letter to
Bishop Berkeley, this architectural gem was touted as a “magnificent pile of a
building . . . [destined to be] the finest Ireland ever saw.”
R403, off main Dublin-Galway rd. (N4), Celbridge, County Kildare. & 01/628-8252. Admission (including
guided tour) €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors, €1.25 ($1.51) students and children, €8.25 ($9.95)
families. Easter day to Sept Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 1–6pm; Oct Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; Nov
Sun 1–5pm. Closed Dec–Easter.
The Curragh Sometimes called the Churchill Downs of Ireland, this is

the country’s best-known racetrack, just 48km (30 miles) west of Dublin. Majes-
tically placed at the edge of Ireland’s central plain, it’s home to the Irish Derby,
held in late June. Horses race at least 1 Saturday a month from March to Octo-
ber. A couple of years ago, the main stand was extensively renovated, a new bet-
ting hall added, and dining facilities (bars, restaurants, and a food court) greatly
expanded.
The track has rail links with all major towns. Irish Rail runs directly to the
racetrack from Dublin (Heuston Station) for €15 ($18), including courtesy
coach to the main entrance. There’s also a “Racing Bus” leaving Dublin
(Busaras) each race day. Call Bus Eireann for details (& 01/836-6111;
www.buseireann.ie).
Dublin-Limerick rd. (N7), Curragh, County Kildare. & 045/441205. www.curragh.ie. Admission €15 ($18)
for most days of racing; €20–€50 ($24–$60) on Derby days. AE, DC, MC, V. Hours vary; 1st race usually 2pm
but check newspaper sports pages.
Irish National Stud with Japanese Gardens & St. Fiachra’s Garden
Some of Ireland’s most famous horses have been bred on the grounds of this gov-
ernment-sponsored stud farm. A prototype for other Irish horse farms, it has
288 stalls to accommodate mares, stallions, and foals. Visitors are welcome to
walk around the 383-hectare (958-acre) grounds and see the noble steeds being
exercised and groomed. A converted groom’s house has exhibits on racing,
steeplechasing, hunting, and show jumping, plus the skeleton of Arkle, one of
Ireland’s most famous horses.
The Japanese garden is among the finest Asian gardens in Europe. Laid out
between 1906 and 1910, it’s designed to symbolize the journey of the soul from
oblivion to eternity. The Japanese-style visitor center has a restaurant and craft
shop. The Commemorative Garden of St. Fiachra, in a natural setting of woods,
wetlands, lakes, and islands, opened in 1999. The reconstructed hermitage
houses a Waterford crystal garden of rocks, ferns, and delicate glass orchids.
Off the Dublin-Limerick rd. (N7), Tully, Kildare, County Kildare. & 045/522963. www.irish-national-stud.ie.
Admission €8.50 ($10) adults, €6.50 ($78) seniors and students, €4.50 ($5.40) children under 12, €18 ($22)
families. MC, V. Jan–Nov 12 daily 9:30am–6pm. Bus: From Busaras, Dublin, each morning, returning each
evening.
Tips Phoning Around in Kildare

Many phone numbers in Kildare have changed in the past year and more
The Irish Pewtermill Ensconced in an 11th-century mill constructed for the

nunnery of St. Moling—after whom the village of Timolin (“House of Moling”)
is named—Ireland’s oldest pewter mill makes for a nice diversion. Six skilled
craftsmen cast traditional Irish, silver-bright pewter in antique molds, some 300
years old. Casting takes place just about every day, usually in the morning. The
showroom displays and sells a wide selection of high-quality hand-cast pewter
gifts, from bowls to brooches. Prices are very reasonable. Custom-made gifts,
such as tankards engraved with family crests, may be commissioned. An addi-
tional attraction here is a set of excellent reproductions of the principal panels
from Moone High Cross (see the listing below), with explanatory plaques.
They’re helpful in further understanding and appreciating the nearby treasure.
If he is about, be sure to meet Sean Cleary, a veritable font of information on
pewter casting, local history, and all things Irish, and a formidable storyteller
to boot.
Timolin-Moone (signposted off N9 in Moone), County Kildare. & 059/862-4164. www.kildare.ie/timolin-
pewter. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun 11am–4pm.
Larchill Arcadian Garden Kids One of Ireland’s most important redis-

covered gardens, Larchill is the only surviving “ornamental farm” of its type in
Europe. During the 18th century’s Romantic Movement, ornamental farms
were popular throughout Europe. Designed around a working farm, the natural
landscape was embellished with ornamental buildings, statuary, water features,
and picturesque walls. Larchill has a lake dotted with Gothic castle follies; miles
of wooded nature trails; meadows stocked with rare breeds of animals, includ-
ing emus and llamas; a walled garden filled with pigs, goats, geese, and peacocks;
and even a resident ghost haunting a medieval tower covered in cockle shells.
Especially for kids, there is a wooden adventure trail with traditional games, a
playground, a sand pit, and a pet’s corner with guinea pigs and rabbits. A tea-
room serves snacks and ice cream. Larchill was saved from dereliction in 1994,
restored, then opened to the public in 1999.
Kilcock, County Kildare. Signposted off N4 near Maynooth. & 01/628-7354. www.larchill.ie. Admission €7
($8.45) adults, €5 ($6) children, €25 ($30) families. May and Sept Sat–Sun noon–6pm; June–Aug Tues–Sun
noon–6pm.
Moone High Cross This renowned high cross, recently restored on-site,
stands in the ruins of Moone Abbey, the southernmost monastic settlement
established by St. Columba in the 6th century. The ruins and grounds are given
a curious formula of neglect and care; for instance, the path to the site is over-
grown, but lined with bright annuals. The high cross, nearly 1,200 years old, is
quite magnificent. A splendid example of Celtic stone carving, it contains finely
crafted Celtic designs as well as numerous biblical scenes, such as the temptation
of Adam and Eve, the sacrifice of Isaac, and Daniel in the lions’ den. The cross
also holds several surprises, such as representations of a dolphin and a species of
Near Eastern fish that reproduces when the male feeds the female her own eggs,
which eventually hatch from her mouth. If you’re in the vicinity, it’s well worth
a look.
Moone, County Kildare. Signposted off N9 on southern edge of Moone village.
Newbridge Cutlery Look closely at the silverware when you sit down to eat
at one of Ireland’s fine hotels or restaurants—there’s a good chance it was made
by Newbridge, which for some 60 years has been Ireland’s leading manufacturer
of fine silverware. In the visitor center, you can see a display of place settings,
bowls, candelabras, trays, frames, and one-of-a-kind items. A video on silver

making is also shown. Silver pieces are sold here, including “sale” items.
Off Dublin-Limerick rd. (N7), Newbridge, County Kildare. & 045/431301. Free admission. Mon–Fri
9am–5:15pm; Sat 11am–5:15pm; Sun 11am–5pm.
Steam Museum Housed in a converted church, this museum is a must for

train-spotters and steam-engine buffs. It contains two collections: The Richard
Guinness Hall has more than 20 prototypical locomotive engines dating from
the 18th century, and the Power Hall has rare industrial stationary engines. The
shop stocks a variety of recent books and videos on the Irish Railway, and serves
as the sole outlet for National Trust Enterprises gifts, which can be excellent val-
ues. The 18th-century walled garden is comprised of several verdant “rooms,”
extending to a delightful rose garden. Call ahead for information on when the
engines will be in operation.
Straffan, County Kildare. Signposted off N7 at Kill Village. & 01/627-3155. Admission €4 ($4.60) adults,
€3 ($3.45) seniors, children, and students, €13 ($15) families. Garden €4 ($4.60). Museum Apr–May and
Sept Sun 2:30–5:30pm; June–Aug Wed–Sun 2–6pm. Garden June–July Wed–Sun 2–6pm; Aug Tues–Fri
2:30–5:30pm.

CYCLING Kildare’s mainly flat-to-rolling landscape makes it perfect for
cyclists who aren’t looking for anything strenuous. Unfortunately, most organ-
ized tours bypass Kildare for regions with more scenic diversity, but you can
always plan your own route if you don’t mind traveling light.
GOLF The flat plains of Kildare offer some lovely settings for parkland layouts,
including two 18-hole championship courses. If your wallet is padded, the
Arnold Palmer–designed, par-72 Kildare Hotel & Country Club (aka The K
Club), Straffan (& 01/601-7300), charges greens fees of €265 ($319) for non-
residents. For a less costly game, the par-70 Kilkea Castle Golf Club, Castle-
dermot (& 059/914-5555), charges €38 ($46) weekdays, €45 ($54) weekends.
Or try the par-72 championship course at the Curragh Golf Club, Curragh
(& 045/441896), with greens fees of €32 ($39) weekdays, €40 ($48) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING Visitors can expect to pay an average of €20 ($24)
per hour for trekking or trail riding in the Kildare countryside. To arrange a ride,
contact the Kill International Equestrian Centre, Kill (& 045/877208), or
the Abbeylands Equestrian Centre, Clane (& 045/868188).
WALKING One of Ireland’s marked long-distance trails, the Grand Canal
Way cuts through part of Kildare and is ideal for beginners because it is flat. The
canal passes through many towns, such as Sallins, Robertstown, and Edenderry,
where you can find accommodations and stock up on provisions. For more
information, contact the tourist office.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Kildare Hotel & Country Club The K Club, as it is best known, is one
of Ireland’s most expensive and exclusive hotels. The darling of the affluent,
sporty set, it’s perhaps most famous for its 18-hole Arnold Palmer–designed golf
course, which will host the Ryder Cup in 2006. Located a 45-minute drive from
Dublin, this 132-hectare (330-acre), no-expense-spared resort makes a luxurious
base from which to visit both Dublin and the sights of Kildare. The surround-
ings are gorgeous and the service excellent, but the atmosphere here is less per-
sonal and relaxed than at many of Ireland’s other manor hotels.
Finds Beyond the Pale in County Laois
A couple hours southwest of Dublin in the midlands of County Laois

(pronounced Leash), Portlaoise makes a convenient stopover between
the capital and Cork or Kerry. Book a room in the award-winning
Ivyleigh House , Bank Place, Portlaoise, County Laois (& 0502/
22081; fax 0502/63343; www.ivyleigh.com). This historic Georgian home,
a stone’s throw from the heart of the town, has been lavishly restored
and furnished with opulent antiques. The breakfast here is a gourmet
feast and the €115 ($139) for a double room is a terrific value.
If you want some outdoor recreation, the nearby Slieve Bloom Envi-
ronmental Park is a magnificently unspoiled mecca for walkers and
cyclists. Before setting out, pack a picnic provisioned at Jim’s Country
Kitchen, 27 Church St. (& 0502/62061). Archaeology buffs can head to
the ancient Rock of Dunamase (6.4km/4 miles outside of Portlaoise,
signposted southeast off N80) to explore an open site under excava-
tion, of a captivatingly ruined 12th-century castle. After some modest
climbing, you’ll be rewarded with stunning, panoramic views of the
sensuously molded Laois landscape, all soft hillocks and quilted fields.
Straffan House, a Georgian mansion, serves as the core of the hotel, with two
wings that replicate the original building. Throughout the hotel, hand-painted
wall coverings and murals enhance the Georgian high ceilings, bow windows,
wide staircases, antiques, and period pieces. The guest rooms are spread out
among the main hotel, courtyard suites, and a private lodge. Each room is
sumptuously appointed with period antiques and upholsteries, the best Egypt-
ian cotton linens, and marble bathrooms with thick bathrobes and heated towel
racks. Prices reflect only room size, but the level of luxury is consistent through-
out the hotel. The house overlooks a 1.6km (1-mile) stretch of the River Liffey.
The main restaurant, the Byerley Turk, is formal (and a tad snooty) and features
French food. Do adjourn for drinks to the library, one of the most wonderful
rooms in the house and the showcase for a sumptuous collection of Jack B. Yeats
paintings.
Straffan, County Kildare. & 800/221-1074 in the U.S. or 01/601-7200. Fax 01/601-7299. www.kclub.ie. 95
units. €295–€310 ($355–$374) double; €475–€575 ($572–$693) 1-bedroom suite; €550–€700 ($663–
$843) 2-bedroom suite; €3,100–€3,810 ($3,735–$4,591) Viceroy Suite or Penthouse Suite. Greens fees for
residents €75–€110 ($90–$133). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (French, bistro); pub; indoor
swimming pool; 18-hole golf course; 2 indoor and 2 outdoor tennis courts; gym; sauna; concierge; room serv-
ice; massage; babysitting; laundry; beauty treatments; library; private access to salmon and trout fishing;
solarium; squash courts. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, minibar, hair dryer.
Kilkea Castle Hotel & Golf Club Nestled beside the River Greese and
surrounded by lovely formal gardens, this striking multiturreted hotel is the old-
est inhabited castle in Ireland, built around 1180 for Walter de Riddlesford, a
great warrior. It is supposedly haunted by the 11th earl of Kildare, who is said
to gallop around the castle walls every 7 years. The hotel really delivers a
medieval feel, thanks to displayed suits of armor and medieval banners, as well
as a mix of Irish antiques and Asian tables, chests, and urns. About a third of the
guest rooms are in the original castle building, with the rest in a newer court-
yard addition. The decor in the guest rooms continues the Middle Ages theme,
with plenty of dark woods, half-tester beds, armoires, chandeliers, brass fixtures,
gilt-framed paintings and mirrors, and floral designer fabrics. The Geraldine Bar
owes its 12th-century atmosphere to original stone walls, stained-glass windows,
and a huge fireplace crowned by a copper flue. Local outdoor pursuits include
fishing for brown trout, tennis, clay-pigeon shooting, and archery.
Castledermot, County Kildare. & 059/914-5156. Fax 059/914-5187. www.kilkeacastle.ie. 40 units. €230–
€360 ($277–$438) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant (Continental); bar; indoor swimming pool; 18-hole golf course; exercise room; spa pool; sauna;
concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry. In room: TV, hair dryer.
EXPENSIVE
Barberstown Castle Within easy reach of Dublin, this is a perfect
country getaway with more than a touch of class. This exquisite hotel spans 750
years of Irish history within its walls. Its five segments—constructed in the 13th,
16th, 18th, 20th, and 21st centuries—somehow form a coherent and pleasing
whole. Each luxurious guest room is named after one of the castle’s former lords
or proprietors. They begin with Nicholas Barby, who constructed the battle-
mented rectangular keep in the late 13th century, and include Eric Clapton,
who sold it to the penultimate owners. The latest extension to this magnificent
castle added 36 luxurious new bedrooms and was completed in summer 2004.
The Barberstown story—from fortress to elegant guesthouse—is a long one,
with a happy ending for anyone deciding to stay here. The rooms are warm and
cosseting, with sitting areas, four-poster beds, antique desks, chandeliers, and
spacious bathrooms. Two-bedroom family accommodations are available, as is a
room designed for guests with disabilities.
Straffan, County Kildare. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 01/628-8157. Fax 01/627-7027. www.barberstown
castle.ie. 58 units. €210 ($253) double; €280 ($337) suite. Service charge 10%. Rates include full Irish break-
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Jan–Feb. From Dublin, drive south on N7, take turn for Straffan at Kill; from west
on N4, then turn for Straffan at Maynooth. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); lounge; laundry service;
nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Tonlegee House Marjorie Molloy’s wonderful B&B has a cult following
of in-the-know Dubliners who come down for a few days of the three Rs (in
Kildare, that’s rest, relaxation, and racing). What sets it apart from other mod-
erately priced places to stay is the wonderful home-style meals served here—in
fact, the restaurant is a destination of its own in the county. The house is an ele-
gant 18th-century manor that exudes warmth and hospitality with roaring fires
and antique furnishings. Guest rooms are nicely appointed in an inviting coun-
try style, with very large bathrooms (some furnished with old-style claw-foot
tubs). Athy is an attractive town on the Grand Canal, which is used today for
recreation and pleasure boating, and makes for lovely walks.
Athy, County Kildare (leave Athy by Barrow Bridge and Canal Bridge, then pass Tergal and take next left).
&/fax 059/863-1473. www.tonlegeehouse.com. 12 units. €130 ($157) double. Dinner Mon–Sat €35 ($42).
Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (country style); drawing room.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
Moyglare Manor FRENCH A half-hour’s drive on the Dublin-Galway
road (N4) delivers you to this grand Georgian mansion and inn, whose restau-
rant is surprisingly intimate. Elegance is the operative word here. Roast quail,
baked plaice stuffed with shrimp, grilled sea trout, and steaks, all with fresh
C O U N T I E S M E AT H & L O U T H / T H E B OY N E R I V E R VA L L E Y 201
vegetables from the manor’s own garden, are all memorable. Service is excellent,
and the desserts are worth saving room for.
Maynooth, County Kildare. & 01/628-6351. www.moyglaremanor.ie. Reservations required. Fixed-price
lunch €32 ($39); fixed-price dinner €55 ($66). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7–9pm. Closed Good Fri-
day and Dec 25–27.
M O D E R AT E
Ballymore Inn INTERNATIONAL Don’t judge this book by its cover.
It may look like a modest country pub, but Georgina O’Sullivan’s inspired cook-
ing raises each simple dish to a thing of beauty. Her menu is like a hit list of all-
time favorite casual foods, each made with the freshest ingredients and plenty of
flair—chic pizzas topped with oven-dried tomatoes and loads of cheese, linguini
with mussels, garlicky stir-fried veggies and black beans, sautéed beef with
mushrooms and paprika-laced sour cream. An excellent address to know about
if you’re heading to or from Dublin on the N81.
Ballymore Eustace, County Kildare (off the N81, southeast of Blessington). & 045/864585. Reservations
required. Main courses €23–€27 ($28–$33). MC, V. Mon–Thurs 12:30–3pm; Tues–Thurs 6–9pm; Sat
12:30–9:30pm; Sun 12:30–7pm.
M O D E R AT E / I N E X P E N S I V E
Silken Thomas GRILL Formerly known as Leinster Lodge, this historic
inn offers an old-world pub and restaurant with an open fire. The menu offers
a good selection of soups, sandwiches, burgers, and salads, as well as steaks,
roasts, mixed grills, and fresh seafood platters. The inn is named after a famous
member of the Norman Fitzgerald family, whose stronghold was in Kildare and
who led an unsuccessful rebellion against Henry VIII.
The Square, Kildare, County Kildare. & 045/521264. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses
€14–€28 ($17–$34). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm and 6–10pm; Sun 12:30–3pm and 6–9pm.
PUBS
The George Inn The back room of this pub is what makes it special. It was
more than likely the kitchen of the original cottage, which has seen more than
a few additions. The focal point is a lovely, large fireplace with warm inglenooks
and a brass-and-leather horse harness hanging over the mantel. The walls have
wainscoting and there’s a random hodgepodge of cozy pine tables and chairs,
kettles and pots, and a kitchen cupboard filled with crockery. Prosperous, County Kil-
dare. & 045/861041.
The Moone High Cross Inn Run by a granny named Bridget Clynch who
“won’t see 80 again,” this rambling 18th-century pub is ideal for a road stop.
There’s genuine hospitality and excellent pub grub—toasted sandwiches, shep-
herd’s pie, all the classics—not to mention an open fire, finely pulled pints, and
convivial conversation. Moone, County Kildare. No phone.
3 Counties Meath & Louth/The Boyne River Valley

48 to 80km (30–50 miles) N and W of Dublin
Less than 48km (30 miles) north of Dublin along Ireland’s east coast runs the
River Boyne, surrounded by the rich, fertile countryside of counties Meath and
Louth. More than any other river in the country, this meandering body of water
has been at the center of Irish history.
The banks of the Boyne hold reminders of almost every phase of Ireland’s
past, from the prehistoric passage tombs of Newgrange to the storied Hill of
Tara, seat of the High Kings, to early Christian sites. This land was also the set-
ting for the infamous Battle of the Boyne, when on July 1, 1690 (July 12 on
modern calendars), King William III defeated the exiled King James II for the
crown of England.
ESSENTIALS
daily train service between Dublin and Drogheda.
Bus Eireann (& 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily express
bus service to Slane and Navan in County Meath, and Collon and Drogheda in
County Louth. Bus Eireann and Gray Line Tours (& 01/605-7705; www.guide
friday.com) offer seasonal sightseeing tours to Newgrange and the Boyne Valley.
By car, take N1 north from Dublin City to Drogheda, then N51 west to
Boyne Valley; N2 northwest to Slane and east on N51 to Boyne Valley; or N3
northwest via Hill of Tara to Navan, and then east on N51 to Boyne Valley.
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Dundalk Tourist Office, Jocelyn
Street, County Louth (& 042/933-5484); the Drogheda Tourist Office,
Headfort Place (behind the town hall), Drogheda, County Meath (& 041/984-
5684); or the Bru na Boinne Center, Newgrange, Donore, County Meath
(& 041/988-0300).
COUNTY MEATH: THE ROYAL COUNTY
The best reason to come to Meath is to learn about Ireland’s pagan and early
Christian history. Meath is known as Ireland’s spiritual capital and is the richest
treasure trove of Ireland’s past, from the megalithic passage tomb at Newgrange
to the Hill of Tara, seat of the High Kings, to early Christian sites. Meath con-
sists almost entirely of a rich limestone plain, with verdant pasturelands and
occasional low hills. Once a separate province that included neighboring
County Westmeath, Meath was usually referred to as the “Royal County
Meath,” because it was ruled by the kings of Ireland, from the Hill of Tara near
Navan. Centuries later, however, Ireland fell under Anglo-Norman clout, and
Trim Castle was constructed in the 12th and 13th centuries to make certain
that the fact of British rule was not lost on anyone.
The chief town of County Meath is Navan, but nearby Kells is better known
to the traveler because of its association with the famous Book of Kells, the
hand-illustrated gospel manuscript on display at Trinity College in Dublin (see
chapter 4). The town of Kells, known in Gaelic as Ceanannus Mor (“Great Res-
idence”), was originally the site of an important 6th-century monastic settle-
ment founded by St. Columcille. Monks driven from Iona in the 9th century by
the Vikings occupied it for a time. The monks may have brought with them at
least an incomplete Book of Kells. The book was stolen in 1007 and recovered
months later from a bog. The monastery was dissolved in 1551, and today only
ruins and a number of crosses survive.
Less than 40km (25 miles) southeast of Kells, beside the River Boyne, stand
the alluring ruins of Bective Abbey, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1147
and fortified in the 15th century. Today the fortress aspect of the abbey prevails,
and it feels more like a castle than a monastery. It is a great climbing ruin, with
myriad staircases, passageways, and chambers—a favorite hide-and-seek venue
for local children, and perfect for a family picnic.
A focal point of County Meath is Slane, a small crossroads village and gateway
to prehistoric Newgrange. Nearby is the Hill of Slane, a lofty 150m (500-ft.)
mound overlooking one of the loveliest parts of the Boyne Valley. On this hill,
tradition has it, Patrick lit the Christian paschal fire in direct defiance of the
Irish King Laoghaire, throwing down the gauntlet for a confrontation between
Ireland’s old and new religious orders.
Even though Meath is primarily an inland county, it is also blessed with a
9.7km (6-mile) stretch of coastline and two fine sandy beaches, Bettystown and
Laytown. History pops up everywhere in County Meath, even on the beach:
The Tara Brooch was found at Bettystown in 1850. Often copied in modern
jewelry designs, the brooch is one of Ireland’s finest pieces of early Christian
gold-filigree work, embellished with amber and glass. It’s on view at the National
Museum in Dublin.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Hill of Tara This glorious hill is best remembered as the royal seat of the
high kings in the early centuries of the millennium before Christianity came to
Ireland. Every 3 years a feis (a banquet reaching the proportions of a great
national assembly) was held. It’s said that more than 1,000 people—princes,
poets, athletes, priests, druids, musicians, and jesters—celebrated for a week in
a single immense hall. The poet Thomas Moore wrote, “The harp that once
through Tara’s halls / the soul of music shed . . .” A feis wasn’t all fun and games,
though: Laws were passed, tribal disputes settled, and matters of peace and
defense decided. The last feis was held in A.D. 560, and thereafter, Tara went into
a decline associated with the rise of Christianity. Admittedly, the remains are not
as impressive today as they were centuries ago. All that remains of Tara’s former
glories are grassy mounds, some ancient pillar stones, and depressions where the
Iron Age ring forts stood. There’s no access to the interior. All the wooden halls
rotted long ago, so you’ll have to rely on your imagination. But it’s still a mag-
nificent spot, with the hill rising 90m (300 ft.) above the surrounding country-
side, and the views surely as awesome as they were 1,500 years ago. A visitor
center, with exhibits and a stirring audiovisual presentation, is in the old church
beside the entrance to the archaeological area. There’s no picnicking, but there
is a coffee shop/tearoom.
Off the main Dublin rd. (N3), Navan, County Meath. & 046/902-5903. Admission €2 ($2.40) adults, €1.25
($1.50) seniors, €1 ($1.20) students and children, €5.50 ($6.65) families. Mid-May to mid-Sept daily 10am–
6pm. Closed mid-Sept to mid-May.
Knowth Dating from the Stone Age and under seemingly perpetual
excavation, this great mound is believed to have been a burial site for the high
kings of Ireland. In historical importance, it’s second only to Newgrange (see
below). Archaeological evidence points to occupation from 3000 B.C. to A.D.
1200. Knowth is more complex than Newgrange, with two passage tombs sur-
rounded by 17 smaller satellite tombs. The site has the greatest collection of pas-
sage-tomb art ever uncovered in western Europe. There is no access to the
interior of the tombs at this time. All tickets are issued at the visitor center.
Combined tickets with Newgrange are available.
Tips Phoning Around in Meath

Many phone numbers in Meath have changed in the past year and more
Drogheda, County Meath (1.6km/1 mile northwest of Newgrange, between Drogheda and Slane). & 041/
988-0300. www.knowth.com. Admission to Knowth and Bru na Boinne Centre €4.25 ($5.10) adults, €2.75
($3.30) seniors, €1.50 ($1.80) students and children over 6, €10 ($12) families. MC, V. Nov–Feb daily
9:30am–5pm; Mar–Apr and Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm; May daily 9am–6:30pm; June to mid-Sept daily
9am–7pm; mid- to late Sept daily 9am–6:30pm.
Loughcrew The 30 passage tombs of Loughcrew, also known as Slieve na

Calliaghe or “the hill of the witch,” crown three hilltops in western Meath. From
their summits, the views of the plains of Meath and of the lake lands of Cavan
are spectacular on a clear day. Two of the cairns—ornamented with Neolithic
carvings—can be entered with a key. Guided tours of the eastern cairn are
offered from mid-June to mid-September, and a key is available at the office for
the western tomb (in many ways the more interesting of the two). A €25 ($30)
deposit is required for the key. From October to May the keys to both cairns are
available from Mrs. Basil Balfe (& 049/854-1256), whose home is the first
house on your right after turning into the Loughcrew drive.
Outside Oldcastle, County Meath. Admission €1.50 ($1.80) adults, €1 ($1.20) seniors, €.50 (60¢) children
and students, €5 ($6) families. Mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10am–6pm. Other times: key is available (see
above). From N3, take R195 through Oldcastle toward Mullingar. 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) out of Oldcastle, look for
a signposted left turn. The next left turn into Loughcrew is also signposted.
Newgrange Ireland’s best-known prehistoric monument is one of the

archaeological wonders of western Europe. It’s classified as a World Heritage Site
by UNESCO. Built as a burial mound more than 5,000 years ago—long before
the Great Pyramids and Stonehenge—it sits atop a hill near the Boyne, massive
and impressive. The huge mound—11m (36 ft.) tall and approximately 78m
(260 ft.) in diameter—consists of 200,000 tons of stone, a 6-ton capstone, and
other stones weighing up to 16 tons each, many of which were hauled from as
far away as County Wicklow and the Mountains of Mourne. Each stone fits per-
fectly in the overall pattern, and the result is a watertight structure, an amazing
feat of engineering. Carved into the stones are myriad spirals, diamonds, and
concentric circles. Inside, a passage 18m (60 ft.) long leads to a central burial
chamber with a 5.7m (19-ft.) ceiling.
Fascination with Newgrange reaches a peak at the winter solstice, when sun-
light pierces the inner chamber with an orange-toned glow for about 17 minutes
at dawn from December 19 to December 23. This occurrence is so remarkable
that, as of this writing, the waiting list for viewing extends through the year
2005. Admission to Newgrange is by guided tour only. It’s 3.2km (2 miles) east
of Slane.
Logistical tips: Get there early. All tickets are issued at the visitor center, Bru
na Boinne. Combined tickets with Knowth, another nearby megalithic passage
tomb, are available. Because of the great numbers of visitors, especially in the
summer, expect delays; access is not guaranteed. The last tour is given at 4:30pm.
Off N51, Slane, County Meath. & 041/988-0300. Fax 041/982-3071. www.knowth.com/newgrange.htm.
Guided tour and admission to Bru na Boinne Centre €5.50 ($6.60) adults, €4.25 ($5.10) seniors, €2.75
($3.30) students and children over 6, €14 ($17) families. MC, V. Nov–Feb daily 9:30am–5pm; Mar–Apr and
Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm; May daily 9am–6:30pm; June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm; mid- to late Sept daily
9am–6:30pm.
Newgrange Farm Kids In contrast to all the surrounding antiquity in the

Boyne Valley, this busy 133-hectare (333-acre) farm is very much a 21st-century
attraction. Farmer Willie Redhouse and his family invite visitors on a 11⁄2-hour
tour of their farm, which grows wheat, oats, barley, rapeseed oil, corn, and
linseed (flax). You can throw feed to the ducks, groom a calf, or bottle-feed the
baby lambs or kid goats. Children can hold a newborn chick, pet a pony, or play
with the pigs. In the aviaries are pheasants and rare birds. Horses, donkeys, and
rare Jacob sheep romp in the fields. The high point of the week occurs at roughly
3pm every Sunday when the sheep take to the track with Teddy Bear jockeys for
the weekly derby. This is especially engaging for children, who are given “part-
owner” badges for the sheep of their choice so that they can shout their own ball
of wool to victory. There is also a go-carting and toy-tractor play area for children.
Demonstrations of sheepdogs working, threshing, and horseshoeing are
given. The Redhouses spin and dye their own wool and have put together an
exhibit of the fibers produced and the natural dyes used to color them. At the
herb garden, visitors receive a lesson on picking edible plants and herbs. Many
of the farm buildings are from the 17th century. There is a coffee shop and
indoor and outdoor picnic areas.
Off N51, 3.2km (2 miles) east of Slane (signposted off N51 and directly west of Newgrange monument),
County Meath. & 041/982-4119. Admission €6 ($7.50) per person, €20 ($24) families. Daily 10am–5pm.
Closed Sept–Easter.
St. Colmcille’s House St. Colmcille’s Oratory, whose oldest parts date from
the 9th century, sits in ancient glory amidst a row of modern terraced housing.
Once an ancient church holding relics of St. Colmcille, the first-floor room still
contains the traces of an ancient fireplace and entryway. But this isn’t all: A nar-
row metal staircase ascends 4.5m (15 ft.) to a dark vault just under the roof. The
small two-chambered space has both a structural and a mythical dimension. It
is thought to help reinforce the stone arch of the oratory roof and—though this
is more conjectural—is also said to be the place where the Book of Kells was
completed.
About 180m (about 590 ft.) northwest of St. Columba’s Church, Church Lane, Kells, County Meath. Free
admission. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Ask for key from caretaker Mrs. B. Carpenter, next door to the oratory on
Church Lane.
Trim Castle This is the most massive and important Anglo-Norman cas-
tle in Ireland, and a magnificent sight for anyone still rapt by knights in armor
and all things medieval. After years of being closed due to restoration, Trim Cas-
tle (aka King John’s Castle, and best known today as a central set for the film
Braveheart) reopened to the public in 2000. Norman lord Hugh de Lacy occu-
pied the site in 1172 and completed the enclosed cruciform keep or great tower
before the end of the century. In the 13th century, his son Walter enlarged the
keep, circled it with a many-towered curtain wall, and added a great hall as an
upgraded venue for courts, parliaments, and feasts.
The decision of the Heritage Service to restore it as a “preserved ruin” is a wise
and effective one. What stands revealed now is the grand skeleton of the once-
grand symbol of Anglo-Norman clout, just enough for visitors to reconstruct the
flourishing whole in their imaginations.
Take the guided tour of the keep, but get there early. It’s usually a sellout and
can’t be booked in advance. Note that this tour is unsuitable for small unruly
children and anyone unable to tolerate steep climbs and formidable heights. It’s
perfectly safe, but it involves narrow, steep steps in places and calls for obedience
to the guide’s restrictions.
Trim, County Meath. & 046/943-8619. Admission to grounds and tour of keep €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €2.50
($3) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €8.25 ($9.95) families. Admission to grounds only €1.50
($1.80) adults, €1 ($1.20) seniors, €.75 (90¢) children and students, €4.25 ($5.10) families. Easter–Oct daily
10am–5pm (last admission at 4:15pm). Tours every 30 min.: 1st tour at 10:15am and last tour at 4:15pm.
Closed Nov–Easter.

GOLF The rolling hills of Meath set the stage for some lovely parkland lay-
outs. The Headfort Golf Club, Kells (& 046/40146), charges greens fees of
€55 ($66) weekdays, €60 ($75) weekends. Even more reasonably priced is the
par-73 County Meath Golf Club, Trim (& 046/31463), with greens fees of
€30 ($36) weekdays, €35 ($42) weekends. If you prefer links courses, the Lay-
town and Bettystown Golf Club, Bettystown (& 041/982-8793), charges
greens fees of €45 ($54) weekdays, €55 ($66) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING Visitors can expect to pay an average of €20 ($24)
per hour for trekking or trail riding in the Meath countryside. To arrange a ride,
contact the Kells Equestrian Centre, Kells (& 046/924-6998).
SHOPPING
Mary McDonnell Craft Studio Textile artist Mary McDonnell welcomes vis-
itors to watch as she creates beautiful leather items, ceramics, jewelry, quilts, cush-
ions, and wall hangings. Her shop also stocks the work of other local artisans,
with a wide selection of crafts inspired by ancient Celtic designs uncovered in the
Boyne Valley. The studio also incorporates Slane Antiques, operated by Mark
McKeever. It’s worth a detour. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30am to 6pm,
Sunday from 3 to 6pm. Newgrange Mall Studio, Slane, County Meath. & 041/982-4722.
WHERE TO STAY
M O D E R AT E
Conyngham Arms Hotel On the main drag of one of the Boyne Valley’s
loveliest villages, this three-story stone-faced inn dates from 1850 and has been
run by the same family for more than 60 years. The current proprietor, Michelle
Matthews, works hard to blend old-world charm and personal attention with
21st-century efficiency and innovative innkeeping. The guest rooms offer tradi-
tional dark-wood furnishings, some with four poster beds, rich primary-color
fabrics, and good reading lights. Other features include writing desks and towel
warmers—but, in keeping with the building’s character, there’s no elevator.
Exceptionally good bar food is available all day in the lounge. Dinner is served
in the adjacent Flemings restaurant.
Main St., Slane, County Meath. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 041/988-4444. Fax 041/982-4205. www.
cmvhotels.com. 15 units. €130 ($157) double. Rates include full breakfast. DC, MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities: Bar/lounge; babysitting. In room: TV, hair dryer.
INEXPENSIVE
Lennoxbrook Country House A dense arch of ancient rhododendrons
marks the entry to Lennoxbrook, the Mullan family home for five generations.
Pauline Mullan and her three daughters offer a quartet of beautifully furnished
guest rooms—antique chairs are positioned beside bay windows, and high, old-
fashioned beds have firm, new mattresses. Two guest rooms have private bath-
rooms that are bright, pine-paneled, and quite large. For those who prefer
character to convenience, the two rooms without their own bathrooms are par-
ticularly charming, and one of the two common bathrooms holds an enormous,
old claw-foot tub. The Mullans provide for guests’ needs in a way that is not
done in more generic B&Bs. For example, laundry can be done for a reasonable
fee, and Pauline and her daughters will spend extra time at breakfast in helping
guests plan the day’s itinerary. For those who want a longer stay, one of the
upstairs rooms can be used as a self-catering apartment, with its own kitchen
and sitting room on the ground floor.
Kells, County Meath. &/fax 046/45902. 4 units, 2 with private bathroom (shower only). €60 ($75) double
without bathroom; €70 ($84) double with bathroom. 20% reduction for children. V.
WHERE TO DINE
M O D E R AT E
Hudson’s Bistro INTERNATIONAL This snappy little bistro, decked
out with sunny colors and bright pottery, is a treat for travelers passing through
the Navan area, especially couples or small groups of friends who enjoy quiet
talk, wine, and terrific food. Try the tender Greek lamb kabobs with saffron rice,
ratatouille chutney, and crisp salad, or authentic, delicious spicy Thai curry with
vegetables, or saffron fettuccine with prawns. The desserts are worth waiting for.
The staff is friendly and the chefs gladly accommodate vegetarian requests.
Railway St., Navan, County Meath. & 046/29231. Reservations required Fri–Sat. Main courses €19–€23
($23–$28). Early-bird (before 6pm) dinner €20 ($24). Service charge 10%. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–11pm; Sun
6–9pm.
COUNTY LOUTH/CUCHULAINN COUNTRY

To the north and east of Meath is Louth, the smallest of Ireland’s counties at
only 824 sq. km (318 sq. miles). The two largest towns are Drogheda and Dun-
dalk (the hometown of the Corrs), but both pale in comparison with Carling-
ford , one of Ireland’s heritage towns and easily the prettiest town in Louth.
It is wonderfully situated on a spur of the Cooley Mountains, overlooking Car-
lingford Lough and the Irish Sea at the northernmost point of Ireland’s east
coast, south of Northern Ireland. Established by the Vikings, it is very much a
medieval town dominated by a massive 13th-century castle. Legend has it that
long before the Vikings came, Carlingford was part of the warriors’ hunting
grounds. On the heights above the town, folk hero Cuchulainn is said to have
single-handedly defeated the armies of Ulster in an epic battle.
Louth is not a place of outstanding scenic beauty, and most visitors move on
after exploring a few sites of historic interest.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Holy Trinity Heritage Centre In a beautifully restored medieval church,
this center has exhibits that detail the town’s history from its Norman origins. If
you book ahead, a visit can include a free guided walking tour of the town and
a look at King John’s Castle, the Mint, the Tholsel (the sole surviving, though
altered, gate to the old medieval town), and a Dominican friary. The center over-
looks the south shore of Carlington Lough, at the foot of Sliabh Foy, the high-
est peak of the Cooley Mountains.
Carlingford, County Louth. & 042/9373454. Admission €2 ($2.40) adults, €1 ($1.20) seniors, students, and
children. Sept–May Sat–Sun noon–5pm; June–Aug daily 10am–4:30pm.
Millmount Museum and Martello Tower In the courtyard of 18th-cen-

tury Millmount Fort, this museum offers exhibits on the history of Drogheda
and the Boyne Valley area. A Bronze Age oracle, medieval tiles, and a collection
of 18th-century guild banners are on display. Also on display are domestic items,
such as spinning, weaving, and brewing equipment; antique gramophones;
mousetraps; and hot-water jars. A geological exhibit contains specimens of stone
from every county in Ireland, every country in Europe, and beyond. The tower
houses an exhibition on the military history of Drogheda.
Duleek St., off the main Dublin rd. (N1), Drogheda, County Louth. & 041/983-3097. Admission museum and
tower €5.50 ($6.60) adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors, students, and children, €12 ($14) families; tower only €3.50
($4.20) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors, students, and children, €8 ($9.65) families. Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm.
Monasterboice Once a great monastery and now little more than a peace-
ful cemetery, this site is dominated by Muiredeach’s High Cross. At 5m (17 ft.)
tall, it’s one of the most perfect crosses in Ireland. Dating from the year 922, the
cross is ornamented with sculptured panels of scenes from the Old and New Tes-
taments. On the monastery grounds are the remains of a round tower, two
churches, two early grave slabs, and a sundial.
Off the main Dublin rd. (N1), 9.7km (6 miles) northwest of Drogheda, near Collon, County Louth. Free admis-
sion. Daily dawn–dusk.
Old Mellifont Abbey ”Old Mellifont” (distinct from “New Mellifont,” a

Cistercian monastery several miles away) was established in 1142 by St. Malachy
of Armagh. Although little more than foundations survive, this tranquil spot is
worth a visit for a few moments of quiet. Remnants of a 14th-century chapter
house, an octagonal lavabo dating from around 1200, and several Romanesque
arches remain. A visitor center contains sculpted stones from the excavations.
On the banks of the Mattock River, 9.7km (6 miles) west of Drogheda, off T25, Collon, County Louth.
& 041/982-6459. Admission €1.90 ($2.30) adults, €1.20 ($1.45) seniors, €.70 (85¢) students and chil-
dren, €5 ($6) families. May–Oct daily 10am–6pm.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE

Ballymascanlon House Hotel A few years back, Best Western took over
this stone-faced Victorian mansion dating from the early 1800s, formerly the
home of Baron Plunkett. The house has been enlarged several times, including
a new wing completed in the summer of 2003. The hotel stands on 52 hectares
(130 acres) of award-winning gardens and grounds, a peaceful oasis just 4.8km
(3 miles) south of the Northern Ireland border. Rooms vary in size but are dec-
orated in traditional style with antiques and rich fabrics. The Cellar Bar offers
traditional Irish music on weekends.
Off the Dublin-Belfast rd. (N1), Dundalk, County Louth. & 800/780-7234 in the U.S. or 042/935-8200. Fax
042/937-1598. www.bestwestern.com or www.ballymascanlon.com. 90 units. €155 ($185) double; €250
($301) suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); pub; swimming
pool; golf course; tennis courts; gym; sauna; solarium. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Ghan House Paul Carroll’s impeccable 18th-century Georgian house is

a wonderful retreat, nestled at the foot of Slieve Foy and within spitting distance
of Carlingford Lough. Rooms are spacious and elegantly furnished with antique
half-tester beds, pretty wingback chairs, and window seats. Don’t miss dinner
downstairs in the acclaimed, very elegant restaurant; what a treat it is to just flop
back upstairs to your room afterward. This is a terrific place to relax and kick
back while you discover lovely Carlingford. Little touches—guest bathrobes,
homemade cookies, bottled water—bring a real sense of luxury.
Coast Rd., Carlingford, County Louth. & 042/937-3682. Fax 042/937-3772. www.ghanhouse.com. 12 units.
€160–€180 ($193–$217) double. Rates include full breakfast. 5-course fixed-price dinner €47 ($57).
AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental). In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Jordan’s Townhouse & Restaurant Here is a place of many incarna-

tions: In the 16th century, it was a row of small fishermen’s cottages; later it was
a coal store, then a shop selling mineral water. Today it’s a gem of a town-house
hotel in the heart of a lovely medieval village, with a bistro that’s a culinary
destination in itself. Harry and Marian Jordan don’t follow fads—they just do
things right. Their five guest rooms are very popular with Dubliners traveling
north and northerners traveling south, who take a couple of nights in Carling-
ford as a break from the road. Both the decor and the food are comfortably time-
less and elegant, and the service is terrific.
Newry St., Carlingford, County Louth. & 042/937-3223. Fax 042/937-3827. 5 units. €115 ($139) double.
Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (bistro/seafood). In room: TV, hair dryer.
McKevitts Village Inn This is a great hotel for unwinding and taking long
walks along the shores of Carlingford Lough. It’s a vintage two-story property
that has been updated and refurbished in recent years. Guest rooms vary in size
and shape, but all have standard Irish furnishings and are very comfortable, with
nice views of the town.
Market Sq., Carlingford, County Louth. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 042/9373116. Fax 042/9373144.
www.mckevittshotel.com. 17 units. €120–€150 ($145–$181) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood); bar. In room: TV.
SHOPPING
Celtic Clays This little pottery shop sells the exquisite wares of Ciaran
O’Conboirne, whose work has developed an international following since he
opened his shop in 1995. O’Conboirne uses Celtic motifs and rich, earthy tones
to create pieces that look and feel sturdy and decidedly Irish. Every item is hand-
made and truly individual, making a superb souvenir. Open Monday to Friday
9am to 5:30pm, Sunday noon to 6pm. 2 Riverlane, Carlingford, County Louth. & 042/
938-3996. [email protected].
AN EASY EXCURSION FROM COUNTY LOUTH

Eight kilometers (5 miles) from County Louth’s northwest border, the town of
Carrickmacross in County Monaghan has been famous for its tradition of lace-
making for more than 150 years.
Seeing the Sights
Carrickmacross Lace Co-op Since the 1820s, lace has been made in the
surrounding countryside, with the tradition being passed through many hands
to the present accomplished lace makers, who now display their works in this
gallery. On view are the beautiful, intricate handmade laces produced locally;
some are for sale. Demonstrations are given every once in a while; call to inquire.
Market Sq., Carrickmacross. & 042/966-2506. Apr–Oct Wed and Sat 9:30am–12:30pm, Mon–Tues and
Thurs–Fri 9:30am–1pm and 2–5pm.
Where to Stay & Dine
Nuremore Hotel In a town famous for its lace, this modern three-story hotel
is equally well known for its hospitality and high standards. Set amid 40 hectares
(100 acres) of parkland and woods (including three lakes), it has been totally refur-
bished and expanded in recent years. The decor is traditional, with dark woods,
marble fireplaces, and antique framed prints of the area. Most of the guest rooms
feature bright colors, reproduction furniture, and half-tester beds; some have light
woods and more contemporary styling. All afford lake or garden views. Guests
have access to a nearby leisure center with a squash court, two tennis courts,
sauna, steam room, gym, and whirlpool, and to trout fishing on the privately
stocked lake. Ask about midweek and weekend deals, which can save you big.
Ashbourne-Slane-Ardee rd. (N2), Carrickmacross, County Monaghan. & 042/966-1438. Fax 042/966-1853.
www.nuremore-hotel.ie. 72 units. €220–€230 ($269–$277) double. Rates include breakfast. Greens fees:
€45–€65 ($54–$78). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor swimming pool; 18-
hole championship golf course; beauty salon. In room: TV, minibar, hair dryer.
6
The Southeast
W exford, Waterford, South Tipper-
ary, and Kilkenny are often referred to
Waterford Crystal Factory to the
Viking streets of Wexford, and from
as Ireland’s “sunny southeast” because the majestic Rock of Cashel to
these counties usually enjoy more Kilkenny’s medieval splendor.
hours of sunshine than the rest of the The website for all Southeast
country. No matter what the weather, Tourism is www.southeastireland.
they also provide a varied touring travel.ie.
experience, from the world-famous
1 County Wexford
Wexford Town is 142km (88 miles) S of Dublin, 63km (39 miles) E of Waterford, 90km (56 miles) S of Wick-
low, 187km (116 miles) E of Cork, and 214km (133 miles) SE of Shannon Airport
County Wexford is most remarkable for the long stretches of pristine beach that
line its coast, and for the evocative historic monuments in Wexford Town and
on the Hook Peninsula. The Blackstairs Mountains dominate the western bor-
der of the county and provide excellent hillwalking. Bird-watchers can find an
abundance of great sites, including Wexford Wildfowl Reserve and Great Saltee
Island.
The modern English name of Wexford evolved from Waesfjord, which is what
the Viking sea-rovers called it when they settled here in the 9th century. It means
“the harbor of the mud flats.” Like the rest of Ireland, Wexford was under Nor-
man control by the 12th century, and some stone reminders of their dominance
in this region survive.
With a population of about 10,000, Wexford is a hard-working Irish harbor
town with a surprisingly sophisticated social calendar, highlighted by the opera
festival in late October.
WEXFORD TOWN ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Irish Rail provides daily train service to Wexford and
Rosslare Pier. It serves O’Hanrahan Station, Redmond Square, Wexford (& 053/
33162; www.irishrail.ie).
Bus Eireann operates daily bus service to Wexford and Rosslare, into O’Han-
rahan Station and Bus Depot, Redmond Square, Wexford (& 053/33114;
www.buseireann.ie).
If you’re driving from Dublin and points north, take the N11 or N80 to Wex-
ford; if you’re coming from the west, take the N25 or N8. Two bridges lead into
Wexford from the north—the Ferrycarrig Bridge from the main Dublin road
(N11) and the Wexford Bridge from R741. The Ferrycarrig Bridge takes you
into town from the west. The Wexford Bridge leads right to the heart of town
along the quays.
Ferries from Britain run to Rosslare Harbour, 19km (12 miles) south of Wex-
ford Town. Stena Line (& 053/61597; www.stenaline.com) handles service
COUNTY WEXFORD 211
from Fishguard, Wales. Irish Ferries (& 053/33158; www.irishferries.com) has

a route between Rosslare and Pembroke, Wales. (Irish Ferries also provides serv-
ice from Le Havre and Cherbourg, France.)
If you’re traveling between County Wexford and County Waterford, there’s a
waterborne shortcut. The Passage East Car Ferry Ltd., Barrack Street, Passage
East, County Waterford (& 051/382488), operates a car-ferry service across
Waterford Harbour. It links Passage East, about 16km (10 miles) east of Water-
ford, with Ballyhack, about 32km (20 miles) southwest of Wexford. The short-
cut saves about an hour’s driving time between the cities. Crossing time averages
10 minutes. It offers continuous drive-on, drive-off service, with no reservations
required. Fares are €6.50 ($7.85) one-way and €9.50 ($11) round-trip for car
and passengers; €1.50 ($1.80) single trip for foot passengers and €2 ($2.40)
round-trip; €2.50 ($3) one-way and €3.50 ($4.20) round-trip for cyclists. It
operates April to September, Monday to Saturday 7am to 10pm, Sunday
9:30am to 10pm; October to March, Monday to Saturday 7am to 8pm, Sunday
9:30am to 8pm.
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Wexford Tourist Office, Crescent
Quay, Wexford (& 053/23111); the Gorey Tourist Office, Town Centre, Gorey
(& 055/21248); and the Rosslare Harbour Tourist Office, Ferry Terminal,
Rosslare Harbour (& 053/33232), or visit the website at www.wexfordtourism.
com. The Wexford and Gorey Town offices are open year-round Monday to Sat-
urday 9am to 6pm. The Rosslare Harbour office opens daily to coincide with
ferry arrivals. Seasonal offices, open June to August, are at Enniscorthy Town
Centre (& 054/37596), and at New Ross Town Centre (& 051/421857).
TOWN LAYOUT Rimmed by the River Slaney, Wexford is a compact and
congested town with many narrow streets—successors of the 9th-century market
trails—lined with 18th-century houses and shop fronts. You’ll want to explore it
on foot, not behind the wheel. Four quays (Custom House, Commercial, Paul,
and the semicircular Crescent) run beside the water. Crescent Quay marks the
center of town. One block inland is Main Street, a long, narrow thoroughfare
that you can easily walk. Wexford’s shops and businesses are on North and South
Main Street and the many smaller streets that fan out from it.
GETTING AROUND There is no town bus transport, but Bus Eireann
(& 01/703-3232; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily service between Wexford
and Rosslare. Other local services operate on certain days only to Kilmore Quay,
Carne, and Gorey.
The best way to see Wexford Town is to walk it. Park your car along the
quays; parking operates according to the disc system, at €.40 (50¢) per hour.
Discs are on sale at the tourist office and many shops. There is free parking off
Redmond Square, beside the train and bus station. You’ll need a car to reach
County Wexford attractions outside of town.
If you need to rent a car, contact Budget at the Quay, New Ross (& 051/
421670), Rosslare Harbour, Wexford (& 053/33318), or Waterford Airport,
Waterford (& 051/421670); Murrays Europcar, Rosslare Ferryport, Rosslare
(& 053/33634); or Hertz, Ferrybank, Wexford (& 053/23511), or Rosslare
Harbour, Wexford (& 053/33238).
If you want a cab, call Wexford Cabs (& 053/23123) or Wexford Taxi
(& 053/53999).
FAST FACTS If you need a drugstore, try John Fehily/The Pharmacy, 28 S.
Main St., Wexford (& 053/23163); Sherwood Chemist, 2 N. Main St.,
The Southeast
Nenagh
N7 Rathdowney
LA
L A OI
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Templemore Castlecomer
Templetuohy
Ballyragget
N7 Silvermines
Johnstown N78
Borrisoleigh Freshford 16
Urlingford
Thurles N8
Kilkenny City
Milestone
Holycross N700
Cappamore
Ballingarry Bennettsbridge
Caherconlish Cappawhite Killenaule
Rock of Cashel Stoneyford
N24 1 N76 14
N10
Herbertstown
Cashel TII P P ER
T ERARY Callan
2 15
Tipperary Town N74 3 Knocktophet
4 Fethard on Windgap
am n
N688 v en ntai R697 N9
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Knocklong Sli Mou Ahenny
Glen of Aherlow 13
Cahir N24
Galty Mountains 6 5
Clonmel 11
Kilfinane Ballylanders N8
Carrick-on-Suir
12
N24
L IM
I M ER
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R678 Portlaw
R671
R665 Clogheen
R.
R676
Su
N73 Ballyporeen
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Mitchelstown R677
Kildorrery R626
W A TE
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10 Kilmacthomas
N8 Knockmealdown Mountains N25
Lemybrien Bunmahon
R672 R675
N72 Ballyduff
R666 Cappoquin
N72 7 Annestown
Fermoy 8
N72 Dungarvan Clonea Strand
R628 Lismore
Rathcormac
Tallow
Ballyknock R671 Ring

R614 Watergrasshill R634
N25
N8 R626
R627 9
Ardmore NORTHERN
N20
Cork Midleton Youghal IRELAND
N25
N22
REPUBLIC OF
N71
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Ballycotton Area of Detail Dublin

COR
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0 10 mi
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0 10 km
212
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Carlow Town Woodenbridge
R726
Tullow
W IC
I C KL
K L OW
OW Arklow
Leighlinbridge Shillelagh
Old Leighlin
ow
Muine Bheag
R. Barr
30
(Bagenalstown) Gorey
N10 Bunclody
R705 C A R LOW
LOW St. George’s
N9
Borris Ferns Channel
17
Graiguenamanagh
Thomastown
18 R729 29
Enniscorthy
R. 19
R. Slaney
N St. Mullins
or N11 Blackwater
e
New Clonroche
N79 Oylgate
20 Ross
K IL
I L KENNY
KENNY 21 W E X FOR
FORD 28
John F.
N25 Kennedy Park N25 Wexford
22 Town Wexford
Dunganstown R738 Harbour
Mullinavat
Wellington Bridge 27
Cheekpoint Ballyhack Rosslare Rosslare
23 R733 Harbor
Duncannon Duncormick 26
R736
Waterford Passage 24 To Fishguard & Pembroke
City East Tomhaggard
Fethard-on-Sea Lady’s Island
Tramore
rb ord
Baginlown
Fornlorn Pt. Kilmore Quay
r
To R
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o sc
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off
HOOK
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PENINSULA
h er
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C e l t i c S e a
Ahenny High Crosses 13 Kells Priory 14
Ardmore Round Tower 9 Kilfane Glen and Waterfall 18
Athassel Priory 4 Lismore Castle 8
Ballyhack Castle 23 Lismore Heritage Centre 7
Ballylane Farm 21 Mahon Falls 10
Bolton Library 3 Mount Leinster 30
Bru Boru 2 National 1798 Visitor Centre 29
Cahir Castle 5 Ormond Castle 12
Duiske Abbey 17 Raven Nature Reserve 28
Dunmore Cave 16 The Rock of Cashel 1
Enniscorthy Castle/ St. Mullin's Monastery 19
Wexford County Museum 29 Saltee Islands 25
Jerpoint Abbey 15 Swiss Cottage 6
John F. Kennedy Arboretum 22 Tintern Abbey 24
Johnstown Castle Gardens & Tipperary Crystal 11
Irish Agricultural Museum 27
Yola Farmstead 26
J.F.K. Trust “Dunbrody” 20
213
214 CHAPTER 6 . THE SOUTHEAST
Wexford (& 053/22875); or Fortune’s Pharmacy, 82 N. Main St., Wexford

(& 053/42354).
In an emergency, dial & 999. The Garda Station (police) is on Roches Road,
Wexford (& 053/22333). Wexford General Hospital is on Richmond Terrace,
Wexford (& 053/42233).
Like most towns in Ireland today, Wexford offers free Internet access in its
Public Library (& 053/21637), which is in Selskar House, off Redmond
Square just in from Commercial Quay. Its hours are Tuesday 1 to 5:30pm,
Wednesday 10am to 4:30pm and 6 to 8pm, Thursday and Friday 10am to
5:30pm, and Saturday 10am to 1pm. The demand is so great, however, that it’s
usually necessary to call in advance to reserve time on a PC. Otherwise, Mon-
day to Saturday between 9am and 5pm, you can go to the Westgate Computer
Centre, Westgate (& 053/46291), next to the Heritage Tower. The center offers
Internet access for €2.50 ($3) per 30 minutes online.
The weekly Wexford People covers town and county events and entertainment.
The General Post Office on Anne Street, Wexford (& 053/22587), is open
Monday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm.
EXPLORING WEXFORD TOWN
The best way to see the town is by walking the entire length of North and South
Main Street, taking time to detour up and down the alleys and lanes that cross
the street. The tourist office can supply you with a free map. You may want to
start out by visiting the Westgate Heritage Tower (see below), which will provide
you with valuable context and background information before you explore the
rest of the city.
The Bull Ring In 1798 the first declaration of an Irish Republic was made
here, and a statue memorializes the Irish pikemen who fought for the cause. Ear-
lier, in the 17th century, the town square was a venue for bull baiting, a sport
introduced by the butcher’s guild. Tradition has it that, after a match, the hide
of the ill-fated bull was presented to the mayor and the meat used to feed the
poor. Today, activity at the ring is much tamer: a weekly outdoor market, open
Friday and Saturday from 10am to 4:30pm.
Off N. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. Free admission.
Cornmarket Until a century ago, this central marketplace buzzed with the
activity of cobblers, publicans, and more than 20 other businesses. Today it’s just
a wide street. The Wexford Arts Centre, in a structure dating from 1775, dom-
inates the street.
Off Upper George’s St., Wexford, County Wexford.
Irish National Heritage Park This 14-hectare (36-acre) living-history

park on the banks of the River Slaney provides an ideal introduction for visitors
of all ages to life in ancient Ireland, from the Stone Age to the Norman invasion.
Each reconstructed glimpse into Irish history is beautifully crafted and has its
own natural setting and wildlife. The 20-minute orientation video is engaging
and informative, but can’t hold a candle to a guided tour by head guide Jimmy
O’Rourke. He is a master in bringing each site to life, captivating children and
intriguing adults. There’s also a nature trail and interpretive center, complete
with gift shop and cafe. Plan to spend several hours in the park.
Off Dublin-Wexford rd. (N11), Ferrycarrig, County Wexford. & 053/20733. www.inhp.com. Admission €7
($8.45) adults, €5.50 ($6.60) seniors and students, €4 ($4.80) youths 13–16, €3.50 ($4.20) children 4–12,
€18 ($21) families. Mar–Oct daily 9:30am–6:30pm. Last admission 5pm.
Wexford Town
13

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Arts Centre, at Cornmarket 7 St. Iberius Church 8

Bull Ring 6 Selskar Abbey 4
Commodore John Barry Theatre Royal 11
Dublin Statue 12 Twin Churches:
REPUBLIC Irish National Heritage Park 2 Assumption 14
OF IRELAND Franciscan Friary 10 Immaculate Conception 9
Public Library 5 Westgate Heritage Tower 3
Wexford
Railway Station 1 Wexford Wildfowl Reserve 13
John Barry Monument This bronze statue, a gift from the American people
in 1956, faces out to the sea as a tribute to John Barry, a favorite son who became
the father of the American navy. Born at Ballysampson, Tacumshane, 16km
(10 miles) southeast of Wexford Town, Barry emigrated to the colonies while in
his teens and volunteered to fight in the American Revolution. One of the U.S.
Navy’s first commissioned officers, he became captain of the Lexington. In 1797
George Washington appointed him commander-in-chief of the U.S. Navy.
Crescent Quay, Wexford, County Wexford.
St. Iberius Church Erected in 1660, St. Iberius was built on hallowed
ground—the land has been used for houses of worship since Norse times. The
church has a lovely Georgian facade and an interior known for its superb
acoustics. Free guided tours are given according to demand.
N. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/43013. Free admission; donations welcome. May–Sept daily
10am–5pm; Oct–Apr Tues–Sat 10am–3pm.
Selskar Abbey Said to be one of the oldest sites of religious worship in Wex-
ford, this abbey dates from at least the 12th century. It was often the scene of
synods and parliaments. The first Anglo-Irish treaty was signed here in 1169,
and it’s said that Henry II spent the Lent of 1172 at the abbey doing penance
for having Thomas à Becket beheaded. Although the abbey is mostly in ruins,
its choir is part of a Church of Ireland edifice, and a portion of the original tower
is a vesting room. The adjoining graveyard has suffered a disturbing amount of
vandalism over the years. The entrance most likely to be open is to the left of
Westgate.
Off Temperance Row at Westgate St., Wexford, County Wexford. Open site (except when it’s locked).
The Twin Churches: Church of the Assumption and Church of the

Immaculate Conception These twin Gothic structures (1851–58) were
designed by architect Robert Pierce, a pupil of Augustus Pugin. Their 69m
(230-ft.) spires dominate Wexford’s skyline. Mosaics on the main door of both
churches list relevant names and dates.
Bride and Rowe sts., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/22055. Free admission; donations welcome. Daily
8am–6pm.
Westgate Heritage Tower Westgate once guarded the western entrance of

Wexford Town. Sir Stephen Devereux built it in the 13th century on instruc-
tions from King Henry. Like other town gates, it consisted of a toll-taking area,
cells for offenders, and accommodations for guards. Fully restored and reopened
in 1992 as a heritage center, it presents artifacts, displays, and a 27-minute
audiovisual display, titled In Selskar’s Shadow, which provides an informative
introduction to Wexford’s complex and turbulent history. If you see this presen-
tation prior to exploring the city, your ambles will likely be a good deal more
meaningful to you.
Westgate St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/46506. Audiovisual show €3 ($3.60) adults, €1.50 ($1.80)
children and students. May–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun noon–6pm; Sept–Apr Mon–Fri 10am–5pm.
Wexford Wildfowl Reserve This national nature reserve is part of the

unfortunately named North Slob, adjacent to Wexford Harbour, 4.8km (3 miles)
east of Wexford Town. About 10,000 Greenland white-fronted geese—more
than one-third of the world’s population—spend the winter here, as do brent
geese, Bewick’s swans, and wigeons. The area is immensely attractive to other
wildfowl and birds as well; more than 240 species have been seen here. The
reserve has a visitor center, an audiovisual program, a new exhibition hall, and
an observation tower and blinds.
North Slob, Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/23129. Free admission. Apr 16–Sept daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Apr
15 daily 10am–5pm.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
Walking Tours of Wexford Proud of their town’s ancient streets and vintage
buildings, the people of Wexford spontaneously started to give tours to visitors
more than 30 years ago. Eventually organized as the Old Wexford Society, the
local folk have developed a real expertise over the years, and continue to give
tours on a regular basis. All tours depart from Westgate Heritage Tower.
c/o Seamus Molloy, “Carmeleen,” William St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/22663. €2 ($2.40) adults,
free for children. Individual tours arranged when you call.
SHOPPING
Shops in Wexford are open Monday to Thursday 9am to 5:30pm, Friday and
Saturday 9am to 6pm; some shops stay open until 8pm on Friday.
Barkers Established in 1848, this shop has long been a mainstay in Wexford.
It stocks a large selection of Waterford crystal, Belleek china, and Royal Irish Tara
china, as well as Irish linens and bronze and international products such as Ayns-
ley, Wedgwood, and Lladró. 36–40 S. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/23159.
Byrne’s Wexford Bookshop This extensive and bustling emporium—spread
out on three levels—offers much more than books. There’s a long wall full of
COUNTY WEXFORD 217
magazines and newspapers, a selection of stationery, arts and crafts and supplies,
and a slew of toys. 31 N. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/22223.
Wexford Silver Pat Dolan, one of Ireland’s leading silversmiths, plies his
craft at this shop. He and his sons create gold, silver, and bronze pieces by hand
using traditional tools and techniques. They are members of a long line of
Dolans who trace their silversmithing connections back to 1647. Open 10am to
5:30pm. A second workshop is in Kinsale (see Kinsale Silver listing in chap-
ter 8). 115 N. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/21933.
The Wool Shop In the heart of the town’s main thoroughfare, this is Wex-
ford’s long-established best source for hand-knit items. The selection runs from
caps and tams to sweaters and jackets, as well as tweeds, linens, mohairs, and
knitting yarns. 39 S. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/22247.
ATTRACTIONS FARTHER AFIELD IN COUNTY WEXFORD
The rounded granite form of Mount Leinster, the highest in Wexford, is a land-
mark throughout the region. One of the most popular hang-gliding spots in Ire-
land, the summit is always windy, and often shrouded in clouds. If you can get
to the top on a clear day, however, it will be an experience you won’t soon for-
get. To get there, follow signs for the Mount Leinster Scenic Drive from the
sleepy town of Kiltealy on the eastern slopes of the mountain. Soon you will
begin climbing the exposed slopes; don’t get too distracted by the dazzling views,
because the road is twisting and quite narrow in places. There’s a parking area at
the highest point of the auto road, and a paved access road (closed to cars) con-
tinues approximately 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) to the summit. From the top you can
scramble along the ridge to the east, known as Black Rock Mountain. To return,
continue along the Scenic Drive, which ends a few miles outside the town of
Bunclody.
Ballyhack Castle On a steep slope overlooking the Waterford estuary, about
32km (20 miles) west of Wexford, this large tower house is considered a Crusader
castle. It’s thought to have been built around 1450 by the Knights Hospitallers
Fun Fact The Simpson’s Fascination: Ireland
• Homer catches a leprechaun to beat a gypsy curse.

• Homer blags into a U2 concert by wearing a green vest, yelling,
“Potato Man!” and delivering a bag of spuds.
• Flanders’s Vegas wife wants him to “Irish up the coffee.” Flanders
says they do not use the “I-word” in their house.
• One of Bart’s chalk lines is “I did not invent Irish dancing.”
• Bart discovers that Springfield’s “Whacking Day” was dreamed up
“as an excuse to beat up the Irish.” An Irishman responds: “But
’twas all in good fun.”
• Apu and his backup dancers do Riverdance at a disco.
• St. Patrick’s Day Parade floats include “The Drunken Irish Novelists
of Springfield” and “2,000 Years of Irish Cops.”
• Grandpa Simpson says he chased the Irish out in 1904. An Irishman
responds: “And a fine job you did, too.”
Compiled by: That’s Ireland! A Miscellany
of St. John, one of the two great military orders founded at the beginning of the
12th century during the Crusades. The castle has been recently restored and
turned into a heritage information center, with displays on the Crusader
knights, medieval monks, and Norman nobles.
Off R733, Ballyhack, County Wexford. & 051/389468. Admission €1.50 ($1.80) adults, €1 ($1.20) seniors,
€.75 (90¢) students and children, €4.25 ($5.10) families. June–Sept daily 9am–6pm. Closed Oct–May.
Enniscorthy Castle/Wexford County Museum Overlooking the River

Slaney at Enniscorthy, 24km (15 miles) north of Wexford Town, this castle was
built by the Prendergast family in the 13th century. It’s said that the poet
Edmund Spenser once owned it briefly. Remarkably well preserved and restored,
it’s now home to the Wexford County Museum, which focuses on the area’s
ecclesiastical, maritime, folk, agricultural, industrial, and military traditions.
Displays include an old Irish farm kitchen, early modes of travel, nautical mem-
orabilia, and items connected with Wexford’s role in Ireland’s struggle for inde-
pendence, especially the 1798 and 1916 risings.
Castle Hill, Enniscorthy, County Wexford. & 054/35926. Admission €4.50 ($5.40) adults, €3.50 ($4.20)
seniors and students, €1 ($1.20) children, €11 ($13) families. June–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct–Nov and
Feb–May daily 2–5:30pm; Dec–Jan Sun 2–5pm.
Irish Agricultural Museum and Famine Exhibition The importance of

farming in Wexford’s history is the focus of this museum, on the Johnstown Cas-
tle Demesne 6.5km (4 miles) southwest of Wexford Town. In historic farm
buildings, the museum contains exhibits on rural transport, planting, and the
diverse activities of the farm household. There are also extensive displays on
dairying, crafts, and Irish country furniture. Large-scale replicas illustrate the
workshops of the blacksmith, cooper, wheelwright, harness maker, and basket
maker. The 19th-century Gothic Revival castle on the grounds is not open to
the public except for its entrance hall, where tourist information is available. Vis-
itors can enjoy the 20 hectares (50 acres) of ornamental gardens, which contain
more than 200 kinds of trees and shrubs, three lakes, a tower house, hothouses,
a statue walk, and a picnic area.
Johnstown Castle. Bridgetown Rd., off Wexford-Rosslare rd. (N25), Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/
42888. Admission to museum €5 ($6) adults, €3 ($3.60) students and children, €15 ($18) families; gardens
€2 ($2.40) adults, €.50 (60¢) children and students, or €4 ($4.80) by the car. No credit cards. Museum
June–Aug Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–5pm; Apr–May and Sept–Nov Mon–Fri 9am–12:30pm and
1:30–5pm, Sat–Sun 2–5pm; Dec–Mar Mon–Fri 9am–12:30pm and 1:30–5pm. Gardens year-round daily
9am–5:30pm.
John F. Kennedy Arboretum Dedicated to the memory of the 35th

U.S. president, this 240-hectare (600-acre) arboretum is near a hill known as
Slieve Coilte, about 32km (20 miles) west of Wexford. The arboretum overlooks
the simple thatched cottage where JFK’s great-grandfather was born. Opened in
1968, the arboretum was initiated with financial help from a group of Irish
Americans; the Irish government funds its development and maintenance. More
than 4,500 species of plants and trees from five continents grow here. There are
an information center, play and picnic areas, and a small miniature railway. A
hilltop observation point (at 266m/888 ft.) presents a sweeping view of County
Wexford and five neighboring counties, the Saltee Islands, the Comeragh
Mountains, and parts of the rivers Suir, Nore, and Barrow.
Off Duncannon rd. (R733), New Ross, County Wexford. & 051/388171. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2
($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. Apr and Sept daily 10am–6:30pm;
May–Aug daily 10am–8pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–5pm.
COUNTY WEXFORD 219
J.F.K. Trust Dunbrody Housed in twin 18th-century grain mills, the center
tells the story of the Irish Diaspora: their lives and achievements abroad, begin-
ning with the monks who went to Europe in the 6th century and continuing to
the present day. A computerized data bank for tracing County Wexford roots is
being developed with the Ellis Island Immigration Museum in New York and
other immigration centers as far away as Australia and Argentina, and will con-
tain more than four million names. A section of the center is devoted to John F.
Kennedy, who was descended from a County Wexford family.
The Dunbrody, the largest tall ship ever built in the Republic of Ireland—
458 tons and 53m (176 ft.) long—was opened to visitors in May 2001. It is
moored on the New Ross quays as a floating exhibition center.
The Quay, New Ross, County Wexford. & 051/425239. Fax 051/425240. www.dunbrody.com. Admission
€6.50 ($7.85) adults, €4.50 ($5.40) seniors, €4 ($4.80) students and children, €18 ($22) families. Sept–June
Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun noon–5pm; July–Aug daily 9am–6pm.
The National 1798 Visitor Centre Just south of Enniscorthy Castle, this
visitor center, dedicated to the 1798 Rebellion and its aftermath, gives visitors
insight into the birth of modern democracy in Ireland. Interactive computers,
an audiovisual presentation, and an array of artifacts are on display to help
dramatize the events in an interesting and exciting way. The center also incor-
porates a pleasant tearoom and gift shop.
Millpark Rd., Enniscorthy, County Wexford. & 054/37596. Admission €6 ($7.50) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) sen-
iors and students, €16 ($19) families. Mon–Fri 9:30am–6pm; Sat–Sun 11am–6pm.
Tintern Abbey In a lovely rural setting overlooking Bannow Bay, Tintern

Abbey was founded under the patronage of William, the Earl of Marshall, by the
Cistercian monks of Tintern in South Wales. The parts that remain—nave,
chancel, tower, chapel, and cloister—date from the early 13th century, though
they have been much altered since then. The grounds are quite beautiful and
include a restored stone bridge spanning a narrow sea inlet. There’s also a coffee
shop on the premises.
Saltmills, New Ross, County Wexford. & 051/562650. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €1.25 ($1.50) seniors, €1
($1.20) students and children, €5.50 ($6.60) families. Mid-May to mid-Oct daily 10am–6pm. Signposted
19km (12 miles) south of New Ross off of R733.
Yola Farmstead A voluntary community project, this theme park depicts a

Wexford farming community as it would have been 200 or more years ago.
Thatched-roof buildings have been constructed, including barns housing farm
animals. Bread and butter making are demonstrated, and craftspeople can be
seen at work blowing and hand-cutting crystal at Wexford Heritage Crystal, a
glass-production enterprise. It’s touristy but not hokey. The Genealogy Center
(& 053/31177; fax 053/32612) is open daily 9am to 5pm. Consultation or one
name search costs €25 ($30).
16km (10 miles) south of Wexford Town, 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) from Rosslare Ferryport, Wexford-Rosslare rd.
(N25), Tagoat, County Wexford. & 053/32610. Admission €6 ($7.50) adults, €4.50 ($5.40) seniors and stu-
dents, €3 ($3.60) children, €15 ($18) families. June–Sept daily 10am–5pm; Mar–Apr and Nov Mon–Fri
9:30am–4:30pm. Closed other months.

BEACHES County Wexford’s beaches at Courtown, Curracloe, Duncan-
non, and Rosslare are ideal for walking, jogging, and swimming.
BICYCLING You can rent mountain bikes at the Raleigh Rent-a-Bike loca-
tion in Wexford Town: Hayes Cycle Shop, 108 S. Main St. (& 053/22462).
A Trip Through History: Exploring the Ring of Hook

The Hook Peninsula in southwest County Wexford is a place of rocky
headlands and secluded beaches. It sits between Bannow Bay and
Waterford Harbour, two of the most significant inlets in medieval times
for travelers from Britain to Ireland, and the abundance of archaeolog-
ical remains reflects the area’s strategic importance. The end of the
peninsula is popular with birders as a site for watching the spring and
fall passerine migration, and holds a lighthouse reputed to be one of
the oldest in Europe. The route described below will guide you through
a driving or biking tour, and hikers can see most of the places listed
from the Wexford Coastal Pathway.
Start your exploration of the peninsula at the town of Wellington
Bridge. Just west of town on R733 is a roadside stop on the left by a
cemetery; from here you can look across Bannow Bay to the ruins of
Clonmines, a Norman village established in the 13th century. This is one
of the finest examples of a walled medieval settlement in Ireland, with
remains of two churches, three tower houses, and an Augustinian pri-
ory. You can drive to the ruins—just follow R733 another mile west to a
left turn posted for the Wicklow Coastal Pathway, and continue straight
on this road where the Coastal Pathway turns right. The ruins are on
private land, so you should ask permission at the farmhouse at the end
of the road.
Continuing west on R733, turn left on R734 at the sign for the Ring
of Hook, and turn right at the sign for Tintern Abbey (see above). The
abbey was founded by the monks of Tintern in South Wales in the 13th
century, and it has been much altered. The grounds are beautiful and
contain a restored stone bridge that spans a narrow sea inlet.
From Wexford, the road north up the coast through Curracloe to Blackwater is
a scenic day trip. For complete 1- or 2-week cycling holidays in the Southeast,
contact Don Smith at Celtic Cycling, Lorum Old Rectory, Bagenalstown
(& 059/977-5282).
BIRD-WATCHING A good starting place for bird-watching in the region is
the Wexford Wildfowl Reserve (see above); warden Chris Wilson can direct
you to other places of interest.
The Great Saltee Island is one of the best places in Ireland to watch seabirds,
especially during May, June, and July, when the place is mobbed with nesting
parents and their young. Like something out of a Hitchcock feature, the cliffs
on the island’s southernmost point are packed to overflowing with raucous avian
residents, and the combined sound of their screeching, squawking, and
chortling is nearly deafening at times. This is a place to get up close and personal
with puffins, which nest in underground burrows, or graceful guillemots. Other
species include cormorants, kittiwakes, gannets, and Manx shearwaters. The
island is privately owned, but visitors are welcome on the condition that they do
nothing to disturb the bird habitat and the island’s natural beauty. From April
to September, weather permitting, Declan Bates (& 053/29684) provides boat
rides to the island and back from the town of Kilmore Quay (about 16km/
COUNTY WEXFORD 221
At Baginbun Head is a fine beach nestled against the cliffs, from

which you can see the outline of the Norman earthwork fortifications on
the head. Here the Norman presence in Ireland was first established with
the victory of Norman forces over the Irish at the Battle of Baginbun.
The tip of the peninsula, with its line of low cliffs, eroded in places to
form blowholes, has been famous for shipwrecks since Norman times.
There has long been a lighthouse on this site; the present structure con-
sists of a massive base, built in the early 13th century, and a narrower
top dating from the 19th century.
The Ring of Hook road returns along the western side of the penin-
sula, passing the beaches at Booley Bay and Dollar Bay. On a promon-
tory overlooking the town of Duncannon is a fort built in 1588 to
protect Waterford Harbour from the threat of attack by the Spanish
Armada. Just north of Duncannon, along the coast, is the village of Bal-
lyhack, where a ferry operates to Passage East in County Waterford,
and a Knights Hospitallers castle (see Ballyhack Castle, above) stands on
a hill over the harbor.
A visit to the Hook Peninsula wouldn’t be complete without a stop at
Dunbrody Abbey, in a field beside the road about 6.5km (4 miles) north
of Duncannon. The abbey, founded in 1170, is a magnificent ruin and
one of the largest Cistercian abbeys in Ireland. Despite its grand size, it
bears remarkably little ornamentation. Tours are sometimes available;
inquire at the visitor center across the road.
At the eastern end of Enniscorthy is Vinegar Hill (117m/390 ft.),
where the Wexford men of 1798 made their last stand. Now a scenic
viewing point, it offers panoramas of Wexford from its summit.
10 miles south of Wexford Town). He charges €100 ($120) minimum for the
boat, or €20 ($24) per person for groups of at least five people.
Hook Head is a good spot for watching the spring and autumn passerine
migration—the lack of sizable cliffs means that it isn’t popular with summer
nesting seabirds. In addition to swallows, swifts, and warblers, look out for the
less common cuckoos, turtle doves, redstarts, and blackcaps.
While driving south from Gorey toward Ballycanew on R741, keep an eye
out for a reddish cliff on the left, about 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) out of Gorey; this is
a well-known peregrine aerie, with birds nesting until the early summer. The
land is private, but it is possible to watch the birds from the roadside.
Other places of interest are Lady’s Island Lake near Carnsore Point, an
important tern colony, and neighboring Tacumshin Lake.
DIVING The Kilmore Quay area, south of Wexford Town, offers some of the
most spectacular diving in Ireland, especially around the Saltee Islands and Con-
ningbeg rocks. For all your diving needs, consult the Pier House Diving Cen-
tre (& 053/29703).
FISHING One center for sea angling in Wexford is the town of Kilmore
Quay, south of Wexford Town on R739. Several people offer boats for hire, with
all the necessary equipment; Dick Hayes runs Kilmore Quay Boat Charters
(& 053/29704) and is skipper of the Cottage Lady. The most popular rivers for
fishing are the Barrow and the Slaney, where the sea trout travel upstream from
mid-June to the end of August.
GOLF In recent years, Wexford has blossomed as a golfing venue. One of the
newest developments is an 18-hole championship seaside par-72 course at St.
Helens Bay Golf Club, Kilrane (& 053/33234). Greens fees in high season are
€40 ($48) on weekdays and €47 ($57) on weekends. Tennis courts and luxury
cottages are available. The Enniscorthy Golf Club, Knockmarshall, Enniscor-
thy (& 054/33191), an inland par-70 course with greens fees of €25 ($30) on
weekdays, €35 ($42) on weekends, also welcomes visitors.
HORSEBACK RIDING Horetown House , Foulksmills (& 051/
565771), offers riding lessons by the hour or in a variety of packages that
include meals and lodging. One of the better residential equestrian centers in
Ireland, it caters particularly to families and children. For more experienced rid-
ers, lessons in jumping and dressage are available, as is a game called polocross,
which combines polo and lacrosse. Training in hunting and admission to the
hunt can also be arranged. Riding is €25 ($30) per hour; accommodations cost
€100 ($120) for a double room, including an all-organic breakfast.
WALKING Along the entire coastline, you’ll see brown signs with a picture of
a hiker on them. The signs mark the Wexford Coastal Path, which theoretically
allows you to walk the whole coast on beaches and country roads. In reality, the
roads are often too full of traffic to make it a good idea to walk the whole
route—especially on the bypass around Wexford Town. The markers are handy,
however, for shorter walks along and between Wexford’s beaches.
In the northern part of the county, the section of beach from Clogga Head
(County Wicklow) to Tara Hill is especially lovely, as is the walk to the top of
Tara Hill, which offers many viewpoints over sloping pastures to the sea. Farther
south, the path veers off the roads and sticks to the beach from Cahore Point
south to Raven Point and from Rosslare Harbour to Kilmore Quay.
There’s a lovely coastal walk near the town of Wexford in the Raven Nature
Reserve, an area of forested dunes and uncrowded beaches. To get there, take
R741 north out of Wexford, turn right on R742 to Curracloe just out of town,
and in the village of Curracloe, turn right and continue 1.6km (1 mile) to the
beach parking lot. The nature reserve is to your right. You can get there by car,
driving another .8km (half-mile) south, or walk the distance along the beach.
The beach extends another 4.8km (3 miles) to Raven Point, where at low tide
you can see the remains of a shipwreck, half-buried in the sand. The point is also
a great place to watch migratory birds in winter and spring—the flight of the
white-fronted geese at dusk is an experience you shouldn’t miss.
On the border between counties Wexford and Carlow is a long, rounded ridge
of peaks known as the Blackstairs Mountains, which offer a number of beau-
tiful walks in an area remarkably unspoiled by tourism. A good guide is Walk-
ing the Blackstairs, by Joss Lynam, which includes trail descriptions and
information on local plants and wildlife. It’s available at Wexford tourist offices.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Marlfield House Formerly the principal residence of the earl of Cour-
town, this splendid Regency manor home, 65km (40 miles) north of Wexford
Town in the northernmost part of the county, was built around 1850. Thanks
to the current owners, Ray and Mary Bowe, it has been masterfully transformed
COUNTY WEXFORD 223
Tips Service Charges

A reminder: Unless otherwise noted, room rates don’t include service
charges (usually 10%–15% of your bill).
into a top-notch country house and restaurant with award-winning gardens.

Although the individually decorated rooms have every modern convenience and
comfort, they haven’t sacrificed their old-world charm. Most have four-poster or
canopied beds, hand-carved armoires, sumptuous fabrics, and one-of-a-kind,
period antiques. Bathrooms tend to be quite large, stocked with thick towels and
bathrobes and plenty of upscale toiletries. The public rooms and lounge are also
quite posh, with gilt-edge mirrors, crystal chandeliers, and marble fireplaces.
Marlfield is rightly celebrated for its cuisine, which incorporates organically
grown fruits and vegetables from the garden. It’s served in the main dining area
or in a fanciful sky-lit Victorian-style conservatory room.
Courtown Rd., Gorey, County Wexford. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 055/21124. Fax 055/21572.
www.marlfieldhouse.com. 20 units. €235–€255 ($283–$307) double; state rooms from €425 ($512). Din-
ner from €55 ($66). Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Dec 15–Jan. Amenities: Restaurant
(local/French/Mediterranean); lounge; tennis court; nonsmoking rooms; croquet lawn. In room: TV, hair dryer,
iron, CD player, garment press.
Kelly’s Resort Hotel Value Kids Four generations of the Kelly family have
turned this hotel into one of Ireland’s best-loved family resorts. Over the years it’s
proved an honest-to-goodness pioneer in the country’s hotel industry, being the
first true resort hotel; prices are all-inclusive for multiple-night stays, so you don’t
have to worry about paying extra for meals and access to leisure facilities. It was
also the first Irish hotel to introduce an indoor swimming pool, sauna baths,
squash courts, and indoor tennis courts. And in the best resort tradition, there’s
excellent dining at La Marine restaurant and nighttime entertainment. Rooms
aren’t luxurious, but they are bright, well kept, and very comfortable. Before you
balk at the price (don’t forget to divide by the number of nights), consider what
it might cost you to feed your family three meals a day at another hotel.
Wexford–Rosslare Harbour rd. (N25), about 16km (10 miles) south of Wexford Town, Rosslare, County Wex-
ford. & 053/32114. Fax 053/32222. www.kellys.ie. 116 units. €572–€627 ($689–$755) double for 2 nights
to €1,936 ($2,333) double for 7 nights. Children’s discounts available. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants
(Continental, bistro); bar; 2 indoor swimming pools; indoor tennis; gym; Jacuzzi; outdoor hot tub; sauna;
steam room; children’s playground; beauty/spa treatments; billiard room; miniature golf; squash. In room: TV,
tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, radio.
M O D E R AT E
Ballinkeele House This grand Irish manor B&B, built in 1840 and in the
Maher family for four generations now, is a wonderful place to appreciate Irish
country-house living. As soon as you enter into the majestic entrance hall with its
Corinthian columns and fireplace, John and Margaret Maher see to it that you feel
immediately at home. And you will: With only five guest rooms, there’s the
impression that you’re a guest of the family. Rooms are old-fashioned in the grand-
est sort of way, with four-poster or half-tester beds, and period touches every-
where. Dinner (book before noon) is served by candlelight in a chandeliered
dining room. The food is excellent: Starters might include avocado pâté or carrot-
and-parsnip soup, while main courses range from trout with fennel to steak with
whiskey sauce to pheasant in cream-and-brandy sauce; vegetarian options are also
available. Some 140 hectares (350 acres) of fields and woodlands surround the
house, with gardens created around a pond. Strolling the grounds, you may well
encounter pheasants, foxes, black rabbits, all manner of birds, and, if you’re lucky,
the resident hedgehog.
Signposted off the N11 north of Wexford at Oylgate, Ballymurn, Enniscorthy, County Wexford. & 053/
38105. Fax 053/38468. www.ballinkeele.com. 5 units. €140–€180 ($165–$217) double. Dinner €40 ($48).
MC, V. Rates include full breakfast. Closed Dec–Jan. Amenities: Dining room; lounge. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Riverside Park Hotel Set on the green banks of the River Suir, the River-
side Park Hotel is a striking addition to the bustling market town of Enniscor-
thy. The contemporary design of the hotel attracts the eye with a rich terra-cotta
and blue facade, lots of glass, and a bold stone tower centerpiece, which houses
a circular atrium lobby. A flower-fringed terrace allows for dining and relaxing
with a view of the River Slaney and its promenade. Guest rooms have a warm,
bright feel to them, with bold print fabrics. They are thoughtfully designed, pro-
viding all the cubbies and counter space travelers need. Front-facing rooms
enjoy a fine view of the river from their own small balconies. The Riverside Park
Hotel makes a great base from which to explore the Blackstairs Mountains, Wex-
ford Town, the Wexford coast, and local attractions; and it’s only a short walk
from the town center of Enniscorthy.
At the junction of N11 and N30 on the south edge of town, The Promenade, Enniscorthy, County Wexford.
& 054/37800. Fax 054/37900. www.riversideparkhotel.com. 60 units. €160 ($193) double; €155–€200
($187–$240) suite. Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international,
Mexican); 2 bars; discounts at nearby leisure center and golf course; babysitting. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker,
hair dryer.
Rosslare Great Southern Kids If you’re taking the ferry to or from Britain
or France, or if you’ve brought the kids, this modern three-story hotel is an
appealing overnight stop in Rosslare. The Great Southern is a branch of a pop-
ular, good-value chain that specializes in family-friendly accommodations. The
Rosslare version is on a cliff top overlooking the harbor, less than a mile from
the ferry terminals. The decor is bright and airy, with lots of wide floor-to-ceil-
ing windows and colorful contemporary furnishings in the guest rooms and
public areas. Families are well taken care of, with special kids’ meals, recreation
areas, and even swimming lessons in the summertime.
Wexford–Rosslare Harbour rd. (N25), about 19km (12 miles) south of Wexford Town, Rosslare Harbour,
County Wexford. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 053/33233. Fax 053/33543. www.gsh.ie. 100 units.
€140–€150 ($165–$181) double. Breakfast €15 ($18). Fixed-price dinner €35 ($42). AE, DC, MC, V. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant (international); bar; lounge; leisure center with indoor pool, tennis; gym; sauna; children’s
playground and indoor supervised playroom; salon; room service; babysitting; nonsmoking rooms; conserva-
tory. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press, radio.
White’s This much-loved vintage hotel will reopen in May 2005 after
extensive renovations, so check the website for special deals in spring and sum-
mer. Dating from 1779, this charmer is right in the middle of town, with its
older section facing North Main Street. Some guest rooms have four-poster or
canopy beds, others a more contemporary feel with blond-wood furnishings.
The public rooms reflect the aura of an old coaching inn, complete with two
lively bars: the Shelmalier, where jazz and folk music often play on weekends,
and Speakers, a popular lounge-style watering hole.
George and Main sts., Wexford, County Wexford. & 800/528-1234 in the U.S. or 053/22311. Fax 053/45000.
www.whiteshotel.ie. 82 units. €140 ($165) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities:
2 restaurants (international, brasserie); 2 bars; minigym; sauna; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry
service; solarium. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
COUNTY WEXFORD 225
INEXPENSIVE
Clone House You’re sure to receive a gracious welcome at this 120-hectare
(300-acre) working farm, the home of Tom and Betty Breen. The five guest
rooms are furnished with handsome antiques, as is the rest of the 250-year-old
farmhouse. A courtyard opens onto a garden in back, and you can walk through
the fields to the bank of the River Bann. Tom prides himself on his knowledge
of the area (both the local region and Ireland as a whole), and will be glad to
assist you in making plans for touring or outdoor activities.
Ferns, Enniscorthy, County Wexford. & 054/66113. Fax 054/66225. 5 units, 4 with bathroom. €80–€90
($96–$108) double. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Nov–Apr. Amenities: Nonsmoking
rooms. In room: TV in 3 rooms.
McMenamin’s Townhouse This feel-good B&B has a well-deserved

reputation for taking good care of its guests, and subsequently does a huge
amount of repeat business. At the western end of town, opposite the railroad sta-
tion, this lovely Victorian-style town house offers warm, hospitable accommo-
dations at an affordable price. Guest rooms are individually furnished with local
antiques, including brass beds and caned chairs. All the guest rooms are non-
smoking and have orthopedic beds. Not all of them have televisions, so if this is
important to you, ask. McMenamin’s is run by Seamus and Kay McMenamin,
who formerly ran the Bohemian Girl pub and restaurant, so your stomach is in
luck: Kay puts her culinary skills to work by providing copious, gourmet break-
fasts (homemade breads and cereals, juice, eggs any which way, and plenty of
coffee or tea) for guests in the nonsmoking dining room.
3 Auburn Terrace, Redmond Rd., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/46442. Fax 053/46442. www.wexford-
bedandbreakfast.com. 6 units. €90 ($108) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Babysit-
ting; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV in some rooms, tea/coffeemaker.
WHERE TO DINE
Forde’s Restaurant BISTRO It’s one of this year’s success stories of
the southeast. Finally, after working for other people for years, Liam Forde
finally opened up his own place right on Wexford’s lovely waterfront, and it
quickly became the “it” destination in the city. There’s much here to evoke a
quintessential bistro experience: the pared-down, yet elegant dining room, the
(too) long menu, and the classic bistro offerings. And like all great bistro cook-
ing, Forde’s delivers just the right amount of punch: Dublin Bay prawns with
garlic, beignets of fresh crabmeat with ginger and basil, and an excellent sirloin
with garlic butter. The wine list is well chosen and affordable (house wine costs
€19/$22 a bottle), the crowd happy, the service professional. Ink it into your
itinerary.
The Crescent, Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/23832. Reservations recommended. Main courses €17–
€22 ($20–$27). AE, MC, V. Daily 6–10:30pm.
M O D E R AT E
Mange2 FRENCH FUSION This is French cooking with global flair—
inventive without any wild antics, and quite eclectic, while retaining the subtlety
and attention to detail that seem to be part of the French genetic code. The
roasted red pepper and fennel samosa with baby beets and yogurt dressing is del-
icately crisp, as is the pine-nut fritter that accompanies the filets of sole. The
roast breast of chicken comes with thin strips of pan-fried chorizo and savory
cabbage. Veggie side dishes begin with ingredients at the peak of freshness and
arrive crisp and steaming, wrapped in parchment packets. The wine list is mod-
est and judicious, with a quite decent house wine for roughly €14 ($17). The
dessert menu features a devastating baked passion-fruit ricotta cake with orange
ice cream. Portions are generous, so you may want to pace yourself, sharing
starters and desserts. If you’re sensitive to smoke, this isn’t the place for you;
there’s no designated nonsmoking section.
100 S. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/44033. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
€17–€24 ($20–$29). AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri and Sun 12:30pm–2:30pm; daily 6–10:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
The Bohemian Girl PUB GRUB Named for an opera written by one-time
Wexford resident William Balfe, this is a Tudor-style pub, with lantern lights,
barrel-shaped tables, and matchbook covers on the ceiling. Its excellent pub
lunches include fresh oysters, pâtés, sandwiches, and homemade soups.
2 Selskar St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/24419. All items €2.50–€10 ($2.90–$12). MC, V. June–Aug
daily 10:30am–11:30pm; Sept–May daily 10:30am–11pm; pub lunches year-round daily 12:30–3pm.
WEXFORD AFTER DARK

THE PERFORMING ARTS
Famed for the Wexford Festival Opera each October, Wexford is a town with
a fine tradition of music and the arts. Year-round performances are given at the
Theatre Royal, High Street, Wexford (& 053/22144), a beautiful theater dat-
ing from 1832. Booking for the opera festival (www.wexfordopera.com) opens
in June for the following October. Tickets range from €10 to €85 ($12–$102).
There’s always something interesting going on at the Wexford Arts Centre,
Cornmarket, Wexford (& 053/23764). Built as the market house in 1775, this
building has served as a dance venue, concert hall, and municipal office. It has
provided a focal point for all the arts in Wexford since 1974, and now houses
three exhibition rooms and showcases a range of theatrical and artistic events.
Open year-round from 10am to 6pm daily.
To see traditional Irish music and dancing, head 16km (10 miles) south of
Wexford to the Yola Farmstead, Wexford-Rosslare road (N25), Tagoat, County
Wexford (& 053/32610). For groups, by prior arrangement, the Farmstead
stages traditional Irish banquets and ceili evenings of Irish music, song, dance,
and recitations. If you’re not traveling with a group and a banquet is planned,
you might be able to join in. The average cost is €32 ($39) per person.
PUBS
Antique Tavern It’s worth a 24km (15-mile) trip from Wexford City to
Enniscorthy to see this unique Tudor-style pub, located off the main Dublin-
Wexford road (N11). True to the name, the walls are lined with memorabilia
from the Wexford area—old daggers, pikes, farming implements, lanterns, pic-
tures, and prints. You’ll also see mounted elk heads, an antique wooden bird-
cage, and a glass case full of paper money from around the world. 14 Slaney St.,
Enniscorthy, County Wexford. & 054/33428.
Con Macken’s, The Cape of Good Hope Long a favorite with photogra-
phers, this pub is unique for the trio of services it offers, aptly described by the sign
outside the door: BAR-UNDERTAKER-GROCERIES. Hardly any visitor passes by with-
out a second look at the windows; one displays beer and spirit bottles, the other
plastic funeral wreaths. An alehouse for centuries, the Cape has always been at the
center of Wexford political events, and rebel souvenirs, old weapons, and plaques
line the bar walls. The Bull Ring, off N. Main St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/22949.
C O U N T Y WAT E R F O R D 227
The Crown Bar Once a stagecoach inn, this tiny pub in the center of town
has been in the Kelly family since 1841. Besides its historical overtones, it is well
known for its museum-like collection of antique weapons. You’ll see 18th-cen-
tury dueling pistols, pikes from the 1798 Rebellion, powder horns, and blun-
derbusses, as well as vintage prints, military artifacts, and swords. Unlike most
pubs, it’s not always open during the day, so it’s best to visit in the evening. Monck
St., Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/21133.
Oak Tavern Dating back over 150 years, this pub—originally a tollhouse—
is 3.2km (2 miles) north of town, overlooking the River Slaney near the Fer-
rycarrig Bridge. Bar lunch choices are of the beef and vegetable hot pot and
shepherd’s pie variety. There is a riverside patio for outside seating on fine days,
and traditional music sessions are held most evenings in the front bar. Wexford-
Enniscorthy rd. (N11), Ferrycarrig, County Wexford. & 053/20922.
The Wren’s Nest Near the John Barry Memorial on the harbor, 5 minutes
from the bus and train station, this pub has redesigned its front bar to include
an old-style wood floor and ceiling, and attractive pine tables and chairs. The
varied pub grub includes Wexford mussel platters, house pâtés, soups, salads,
and vegetarian entrees. There is free traditional Irish music on Tuesday and
Thursday nights. Custom House Quay, Wexford, County Wexford. & 053/22359.
2 County Waterford
Waterford City is 65km (40 miles) W of Wexford, 53km (33 miles) W of Rosslare Harbour, 158km (98 miles)
SW of Dublin, 126km (78 miles) E of Cork, and 153km (95 miles) SE of Shannon Airport
Waterford City (pop. 42,500) is the main seaport of southeast Ireland. Only
11km (7 miles) from the Atlantic, it is one of Ireland’s windiest cities, boasting
gale-force winds an average of 180 days every year. More significantly, this is Ire-
land’s oldest city, founded by Viking invaders in the 9th century. In fact, Water-
ford is older than any of the major Nordic capitals of modern Europe, including
Oslo, Stockholm, and Copenhagen. In recent years, a major archaeological
endeavor has excavated nearly a fourth of the ancient Viking city, and some of
the more striking finds from these excavations can be seen in the new Waterford
Treasures at the Granary Museum.
Although the historic district around Reginald’s Tower is quite intriguing, the
city is primarily a commercial center, dominated by its busy port. Because the
rest of County Waterford is so beautiful, many travelers don’t linger long in the
capital city, though it is currently enjoying a fresh wave of renewal and develop-
ment, some of which is aimed directly at visitors. Truth is, there’s a good deal to
see and do here.
Coastal highlights south of Waterford include Dunmore East, a picturesque
fishing village; Dungarvan, a major town with a fine harbor; Ardmore, an idyl-
lic beach resort; and Passage East, a tiny seaport from which you can catch a
ferry across the harbor and cut your driving time from Waterford to Wexford in
half. Of all the coastal towns in County Waterford, Ardmore stands out as the
perfect getaway. It has a beautiful and important early Christian site, a pristine
Blue Flag beach, a stunning cliff walk, a fine craft shop, an excellent restaurant,
comfortable seaside accommodations, and a quaint town recently named Ire-
land’s tidiest. Portally Cove, near Dunmore East, is the home of Ireland’s only
Amish-Mennonite community.
In northwest County Waterford, the Comeragh Mountains provide many
opportunities for beautiful walks, including the short trek to Mahon Falls. These
mountains also have highly scenic roads for biking. Farther west, there’s great
fishing and bird-watching on the Blackwater estuary.
WATERFORD CITY ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Air service from Britain operates into Waterford Air-
port, off R675, Waterford (& 051/875589). Carriers include Aeracron Air-
lines from Luton, and British Airways (operated by British Regional) from
London (Stansted) and Manchester.
Irish Rail offers daily service from Dublin and other points into Plunkett Sta-
tion, at Ignatius Rice Bridge, Waterford (& 051/873401; www.irishrail.ie).
Bus Eireann operates daily service into Plunkett Station Depot, Waterford
(& 051/879000; www.buseireann.ie), from Dublin, Limerick, and other major
cities throughout Ireland.
Four major roads lead into Waterford: N25 from Cork and the south, N24
from the west, N19 from Kilkenny and points north, and N25 from Wexford.
The Passage East Car Ferry Ltd., Barrack Street, Passage East, County
Waterford (& 051/382480 or 051/382488), operates car-ferry service across
Waterford Harbour. It links Passage East, about 16km (10 miles) east of Water-
ford, with Ballyhack, about 32km (20 miles) southwest of Wexford. This short-
cut saves about an hour’s driving time. The crossing time averages 10 minutes.
It’s continuous drive-on, drive-off service, with no reservations required. See
p. 210, “Wexford Town Essentials,” for fare and schedule information.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Waterford Tourist Office is at 41 The
Quay, Waterford (& 051/875788; www.waterfordtourism.com). It’s open April
to September, Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm; October, Monday to Saturday
9am to 5pm; November to March, Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. The year-
round office in The Courthouse, off the Square in Dungarvan (& 058/41741),
keeps comparable hours. The seasonal tourist office on the Square at Tramore
(& 051/381572) is open from mid-June to August, Monday to Saturday 10am
to 6pm. Additionally, here is a website that will keep you up on Waterford
goings-on: www.waterford-today.ie.
CITY LAYOUT Rimmed by the River Suir, Waterford is a commercial city
focused from the start on its quays. The city center sits on the south bank of the
Suir. Traffic from the north, west, and east enters from the north bank over the
Ignatius Rice Bridge and onto a series of four quays (Grattan, Merchants,
Meagher, and Parade), but most addresses simply say “The Quay.” Most shops
and attractions are concentrated near the quay area or on two thoroughfares that
intersect the quays: The Mall and Barronstrand Street (changing their names to
Broad, Michael, and John sts.). Both of these streets were once rivers flowing
into the Suir; and, in fact, the original waterways continue to flow roughly 15m
(50 ft.) beneath today’s pavement.
GETTING AROUND Bus Eireann operates daily bus service within Water-
ford and its environs. The flat fare is €1.10 ($1.35). Taxi ranks are outside
Plunkett Rail Station and along the Quay opposite the Granville Hotel. If
you need to call a taxi, try Rapid Cabs (& 051/858585), Metro Cabs (& 051/
857157), or Waterford Taxi Co-op (& 051/877778).
To see most of Waterford’s sights (except the Waterford Crystal factory), it’s
best to walk. Park along the quays; parking is operated by machines or by the
disc system. Discs are on sale at the tourist office and in many shops. It will cost
you €1.40 ($1.65) for 3 hours, or €6 ($7.50) for a full day. You’ll need a car to
reach the Waterford Crystal and County Waterford attractions outside of town.
Waterford City
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REPUBLIC Irish National Heritage Park 2 Assumption 14
OF IRELAND Franciscan Friary 10 Immaculate Conception 9
Public Library 5 Westgate Heritage Tower 3
Wexford
Railway Station 1 Wexford Wildfowl Reserve 13
To rent a car, contact Budget Rent A Car, Waterford Airport (& 051/
421670).
FAST FACTS If you need a drugstore, try Gallagher’s Pharmacy, 29 Bar-
ronstrand St. (& 051/878103); or Mulligan’s Chemists, 40–41 Barronstrand
St. (& 051/875211), and City Square Shopping Centre, Unit 12A (& 051/
853247).
In an emergency, dial & 999. Garda Headquarters (& 051/305300) is the
local police station. Holy Ghost Hospital is on Cork Road (& 051/374397),
and Waterford Regional Hospital is on Dunmore Road (& 051/848000).
Among the resources for gay travelers is the Gay and Lesbian Line South-
east (& 051/879907). The Waterford Gay and Lesbian Resource Centre is at
the Youth Resources Centre, St. John’s Park (& 087/638-7931).
The Voyager Internet Cafe, Parnell Court, off Parnell Street (& 051/
843843), isn’t actually a cafe, but it does provide high-speed access with all the
peripherals for €1.80 ($2.15) per 15 minutes. Open Monday to Saturday 11am
to 11pm.
The General Post Office on Parade Quay (& 051/317312) is open Monday
to Friday 9am to 5:30pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm.
EXPLORING WATERFORD CITY
The best way to see the city is by walking along the quays and taking a right at
Reginald’s Tower on the Mall (which becomes Parnell St.). Turn right onto John
Street (which becomes Michael, Broad, and Barronstrand sts.), which brings you
back to the quays. The tourist office can supply you with a free map.
City Hall Headquarters of the local city government, this late-18th-century
building houses local memorabilia, including information on the city’s charter,
which was granted in 1205. In addition, a display is dedicated to Thomas Fran-
cis Meagher, a leader in an 1848 Irish insurrection. Meagher was sentenced to
death but eventually escaped to America, where he fought in the Civil War,
earned the rank of brigadier general, and was appointed acting governor of
Montana. City Hall’s other treasures include an 18th-century Waterford glass
chandelier, a complete dinner service of priceless antique Waterford glasses, and
a painting of Waterford City in 1736 by the Flemish master William Van der
Hagen.
The Mall, Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/73501. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–1pm and 2–5pm.
Garter Lane Arts Centre One of Ireland’s largest arts centers, the Garter
Lane occupies two buildings on O’Connell Street. No. 5, the site of the former
Waterford Library, holds exhibition rooms and artists’ studios, and no. 22a, the
former Friends Meeting House, is home of the Garter Lane Theatre, with an art
gallery and outdoor courtyard. The gallery showcases works by contemporary
and local artists.
5 and 22a O’Connell St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/855038. Free admission to exhibitions.
Gallery Tues–Sat noon–6pm.
Holy Trinity Cathedrals Waterford has two impressive cathedrals, one

Catholic and the other Protestant, both built by the same architect, John
Roberts. Roberts lived 82 years (1714–96), fathered 22 children with the same
beloved partner (in business and in bed), and built nearly every significant 18th-
century building in and around Waterford. Holy Trinity on Barronstrand is the
oldest Catholic and the only baroque cathedral in Ireland and boasts 10 unique
Waterford Crystal chandeliers. It’s open daily 7:30am to 7pm. The Anglican or
Church of Ireland Holy Trinity Cathedral (conveniently nicknamed Christ
Church) on Henrietta Street has a most peculiar spire and only clear glass,
because its first bishop and rector disliked stained glass.
Barronstrand and Henrietta sts., Waterford, County Waterford.
Reginald’s Tower Circular, topped with a conical roof, and with walls 3m
(10 ft.) thick, this mighty tower stands at the eastern end of the Quay beside the
river. It’s said to have been built in 1003 by a Viking governor named Reginald
and has never fallen into ruin, which makes it Ireland’s oldest standing building
in continuous use. Still dominating the Waterford skyline, it’s particularly strik-
ing at night when fully floodlit. Over the centuries, it’s been a fortress, a prison,
a military depot, a mint, an air-raid shelter, and now a museum.
The Quay, Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/73501. Admission €2 ($2.40) adults, €1.20 ($1.45) seniors,
€1 ($1.20) children, €5.50 ($6.60) families. Combined ticket with Waterford Treasures available. June–Aug
daily 9:30am–9pm; May and Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; Oct–Apr daily 10am–5pm.
Waterford Crystal Factory and Gallery This is Waterford’s num-

ber-one attraction. Since the glasswork’s founding in 1783, Waterford has been
a byword for the crystal of connoisseurs. The devastating effects of the Irish
famine forced the factory to close in 1851. Happily, it was revived in 1947, and
Waterford has since regained its prominence among prized glassware. With
more than 2,000 employees, Waterford is the largest crystal factory in the world
and the major industry in Waterford.
The bi-level Waterford Crystal Gallery contains the most comprehensive dis-
play of Waterford Crystal in the world, from all the glassware patterns to elabo-
rate pieces like trophies, globes, and chandeliers. Crystal is on sale in the gallery.
(But don’t look for any discounts at the factory—there are no seconds to be had.
The main advantage in shopping here is simply the wide selection.)
There is a free 17-minute audiovisual presentation on the glassmaking process
and an excellent, 35-minute tour of the factory to see it firsthand, from mouth-
blowing and shaping of molten glass to delicate hand-cutting. Note: Children
under 10 are not permitted on the factory tour. Reservations are not required.
Cork Rd., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/373311. Tour €7.50 ($9.05) adults, €6.50 ($7.85), €3.50
($4.20) students, free for children under 12. Free admission to audiovisual presentation and gallery. Tours
Mar–Oct daily 8:30am–4:15pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 9am–3:15pm. Showrooms Mar–Oct daily 8:30am–6pm;
Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 9am–5pm.
Waterford Heritage Genealogical Centre Did your ancestors come from

Waterford? If so, follow the small lane between George’s and Patrick streets to
this historic building adjoining St. Patrick’s, one of Ireland’s oldest churches.
The center specializes in tracing County Waterford ancestry. Church registers
dating from 1655 and other surveys, rolls, and census lists are used as resources.
An audiovisual presentation examines the heritage of the local people.
St. Patrick’s Church, Jenkins Lane, Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/876123. Fax 051/850645.
www.waterford-heritage.ie. Free admission; basic search fee €80 ($96) by appointment only. Mon–Thurs
9am–5pm; Fri 9am–2pm.
Waterford Pottery and the Dyehouse Gallery Liz McCay is both the
resident potter and the gallery director of this combined venue, where you’ll find
not only her own unique “Waterford Ware,” inspired by a black ceramic style
discovered in local Viking excavations, but also contemporary paintings and
prints by many of Ireland’s leading visual artists. The gallery hosts seven or eight
exhibitions per year.
Dyehouse Lane, Waterford, County Waterford. Pottery & 051/878166; www.waterfordpottery.com. Gallery
& 051/850399; www.dyehouse-gallery.com. Free admission to exhibitions. Shop and gallery open Mon–Sat
11am–6pm, or phone for appointment.
Waterford Treasures at the Granary Museum This impressive her-

itage center and museum, housed in a converted granary, unfolds Waterford’s
history from its earliest Viking origins to the present. An exceptional collection
of Viking and medieval artifacts recovered from Waterford’s lower levels is on
display. The Granary, however, is no ordinary museum of artifacts under glass
and walls of small print. It’s also an ambitious state-of-the-art multimedia expe-
rience aimed at all ages, and launched with a three-dimensional audiovisual sea
Tips Walking Your Way Through Waterford

The very best way to begin your exploration of Waterford is to take a
Waterford City Walking Tour . Jack Burtchaell, well versed in the history,
folklore, and witty anecdotes of the city, conducts an engaging hour-long
tour of the old city, leaving daily from the reception area of the Granville
Hotel on the Quay. Tours are offered daily at noon and 2pm from March
through October and cost €6 ($6.90) for adults, free for accompanied
small children. For more information, call Waterford Tourist Services at
& 051/873711.
voyage viewed from the hull of a Viking boat actually rolling with the waves
you’re watching. But despite its ambitions, the museum’s myriad exhibitions can
seem like a circus with too many rings, more chaotic than enticing. (Still, the
Granary was named the Irish Museum of the Year in 1999–2000.) If you move
along at your own pace, however, there’s a lot to see and learn here; and the
building and conversion itself is truly beautiful. There’s also a gift shop and cafe.
Merchant’s Quay, Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/304500. www.waterfordtreasures.com. Admission
€6 ($7.50) adults, €4.50 ($5.40) seniors and students, €3.20 ($3.85) children, €12–€19 ($14–$23) fami-
lies. Combined ticket with Reginald’s Tower available. June–Aug daily 9:30am–9pm; Apr–May and Sept daily
9:30am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–5pm.
SHOPPING
Most people come to Waterford for the crystal, but there are many other fine
products in the shops and in the three multilevel enclosed shopping centers:
George’s Court, off Barronstrand Street, Broad Street Centre, on Broad Street,
and City Square, off Broad Street. Hours are usually Monday to Saturday from
9 or 9:30am to 6 or 6:30pm. Some shops are open until 9pm on Thursday and
Friday.
Aisling Beside the Granville Hotel, this interesting shop (pronounced Ash-
ling, the name means “dream” or “vision” in Gaelic) offers an assortment of
handmade crafts, from quilts, tartans, and kilts to floral art, miniature paintings,
and watercolors of Irish scenes and subjects. 61 The Quay, Waterford, County Waterford.
& 051/873262.
The Book Centre This huge, four-level bookstore sells all types of books,
newspapers, and magazines, as well as posters, maps, and music tapes and CDs.
You can also make a photocopy or zap off a fax. Barronstrand St., Waterford, County
Waterford. & 051/873823.
Joseph Knox For visitors, this store has long been a magnet for its large selec-
tion of Waterford crystal, particularly specialty items like chandeliers. 3 Bar-
ronstrand St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/875307.
Kelly’s Dating from 1847, this store offers a wide selection of Waterford crys-
tal, Aran knitwear, Belleek and Royal Tara china, Irish linens, and other sou-
venirs. 75–76 The Quay, Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/873557.
Penrose Crystal Established in 1786 and revived in 1978, this is Waterford’s
other glass company, which turns out delicate hand-cut and engraved glassware.
The craftspeople practice the stipple engraving process, the highest art form in
glass. A retail sales outlet is at Unit 8 of the City Square Shopping Centre. Both
are open the usual hours, but the factory is also open Sunday from June to
August, 2 to 5:30pm. 32A Johns St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/876537.
ATTRACTIONS FARTHER AFIELD IN COUNTY WATERFORD
Ardmore High Cross Ardmore (Irish for “the great height”) may well be
the oldest Christian settlement in Ireland. St. Declan, its founder, is said to have
been a bishop in Munster as early as the mid–4th century, well before Patrick
came to Ireland. Tradition has it that the small stone oratory, situated in a ceme-
tery high above the town, marks his burial site. St. Declan’s Oratory is one of
several stone structures here composing the ancient monastic settlement, which
you can explore freely on your own. The most striking is the perfectly intact
30m (97-ft.) high round tower, arguably the finest of all round towers in Ireland.
There are also the ruins of a medieval cathedral and, nearby, St. Declan’s well
and church. For more in-depth explorations, pick up a copy of The Pilgrim’s
Finds A Walk to Mahon Falls

Mahon Falls is located in the Comeragh Mountains, on R676 between Car-
rick-on-Suir and Dungarvan. At the tiny village of Mahon Bridge, 26km (16
miles) south of Carrick-on-Suir, turn west on the road marked for Mahon
Falls, then continue to follow signs for the falls and the “Comeragh
Drive.” In about 4.8km (3 miles), you reach a parking lot along the Mahon
River (in fact, just a tiny stream). The trail, indicated by two boulders,
begins across the road from the parking lot. Follow the stream along the
floor of the valley to the base of the falls. From here you can see the fields
of Waterford spread out below you, and the sea a glittering mirror
beyond. Walking time is about 30 minutes round-trip.
Round of Ardmore, County Waterford, at the local newsdealer for €2.85 ($3.30),
or join the local walking tour of ancient Ardmore led by Mary Murray, which
leaves twice daily (11am and 3pm) Monday to Saturday from the Tourist Infor-
mation Office in the harbor.
Ardmore, County Waterford. Open site.
Lismore Castle Perched high on a cliff above the River Blackwater, this
turreted castle dates to 1185, when Prince John of England built a similar
fortress on this site. Local lore says that Lismore Castle was once granted to Sir
Walter Raleigh for IR£12 (€15/$16) a year, although he never occupied it. One
man who did live here was Richard Boyle, the first earl of Cork. He rebuilt the
castle, including the thick defensive walls that still surround the garden, in 1626.
Richard’s son Robert, who was born at the castle in 1627, was the celebrated
chemist whose name lives on in Boyle’s Law. Most of the present castle was
added in the mid–19th century. Today the 3,200-hectare (8,000-acre) estate of
gardens, forests, and farmland is the Irish seat of the duke and duchess of
Devonshire, whose primary home is in England. Although the castle itself is not
open for tours, the public is welcome in the splendid walled and woodland
gardens.
The castle can be rented, complete with the duke’s personal staff, to private
groups for a minimum of €3,500 ($4,200) per day for 4 nights (up to 12 peo-
ple) or €24,300 ($29,280), which includes dinner, afternoon tea, breakfast, and
staff. Contact Elegant Ireland (& 01/475-1632; www.elegant.ie).
Lismore, County Waterford. & 058/54424. Admission to gardens €4 ($4.80) adults, €2 ($2.40) children
under 16. Mid-Apr to mid-Oct daily 1:45–4:45pm. From Cappoquin, take N72 6.5km (4 miles) west.
Lismore Heritage Centre This interpretative center, in the town’s Old

Courthouse, tells the history of Lismore, a charming town founded by St.
Carthage in the year 636. “The Lismore Experience” is an exceptional award-
winning multimedia presentation on the town’s unique treasures, including the
Book of Lismore, which dates back 1,000 years, and the Lismore Crozier
(1116). Both were discovered hidden in the walls of Lismore Castle in 1814.
The presentation also provides an excellent introduction to the surrounding area
and its attractions. In addition, the center offers tours of the Lismore town and
cathedral. There’s a souvenir/gift shop adjacent to the heritage center.
Lismore, County Waterford. & 058/54975. www.lismore-ireland.com/heritage/index.htm. Admission €4
($4.80) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors, students, and children, €10 ($12) families. Apr–Oct daily 10am–5:30pm.
Closed Nov–Mar.

BEACHES For walking, jogging, or swimming, visit one of County Water-
ford’s wide sandy beaches at Tramore, Ardmore, Clonea, or Dunmore East.
BICYCLING From Waterford City, you can ride 13km (8 miles) to Passage
East and take the ferry (€3/$3.60 with a bicycle) to Wexford and the beautiful
Hook Peninsula. Or continue on from Passage East to Dunmore East, a pictur-
esque seaside village with a small beach hemmed in by cliffs. The road from
there to Tramore and Dungarvan is quite scenic. For a complete 1- or 2-week
biking vacation in the Southeast, contact Don Smith at Celtic Cycling, Lorum
Old Rectory, Bagenalstown, County Carlow (&/fax 059/977-5282; www.celtic
cycling.com).
FISHING The Colligan River is excellent for both sea trout and salmon. For
permit information, contact Baumann’s Jewellers, 6 St. Mary St., Dungarvan
(& 058/41395). For sea angling, there are a number of licensed charter-boat
companies operating out of Kilmore Quay, roughly 24km (15 miles) southwest
of Wexford. One such operation is Kilmore Quay Boat Charters; contact Dick
Hayes (& 053/29704). For landlubbers, the River Slaney, brimming with
salmon and sea trout, can be fished from the old bridge in Enniscorthy.
GOLF County Waterford’s golf venues include three 18-hole championship
courses. Waterford Castle Golf and Country Club, The Island, Ballinakill,
Waterford (& 051/871633), is a par-72 parkland course; greens fees are €49
($59) on weekdays, €59 ($71) on weekends. Faithlegg Golf Club, Faithlegg
House (& 051/382241), a par-72 parkland course beside the River Suir,
charges greens fees of €35 ($42) Monday to Thursday, €45 ($54) Friday
to Sunday. Dungarvan Golf Club, Knocknagranagh, Dungarvan (& 058/
43310), a par-72 parkland course, has greens fees of €31 ($37) on weekdays,
€42 ($51) on weekends. In addition, the 18-hole par-71 inland course at
Waterford Golf Club, Newrath, Waterford (& 051/876748), is 1.6km (a mile)
from the center of the city. Its greens fees are €35 ($42) on weekdays, €45
($54) on weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING County Waterford is filled with trails. You can
arrange to ride at Killotteran Equitation Centre, Killotteran, Waterford
(& 051/384158). Fees average €25 ($30) per hour.
SAILING, WINDSURFING & SEA KAYAKING From May to September,
the Dunmore East Adventure Centre, Dunmore East (& 051/383783), offers
courses of 1 to 4 days that cost €30 to €45 ($36–$54) per day, including equip-
ment rental. Summer programs for children are also available. This is a great
spot for an introductory experience, but there isn’t much wave action for thrill-
seeking windsurfers.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Waterford Castle There’s something simply magical about taking a
boat back to your room for the night. Islands are natural oases, and Waterford
Castle is no exception. Dating back 800 years, this is the most secluded of Ire-
land’s castles, on a private 124-hectare (310-acre) island in the River Suir, sur-
rounded by woodland and an 18-hole championship golf course. It’s only 3.2km
(2 miles) south of Waterford and yet accessible only by the castle’s private car
ferry. Comprising an original Norman keep and two Elizabethan-style wings, it is
built entirely of stone, with leaded roofs, mullioned windows, granite archways,
ancient gargoyles, and fairy-tale turrets, towers, and battlements. The castle’s
interior is full of oak-paneled walls, ornate plaster ceilings, colorful tapestries,
spacious sitting areas with huge stone fireplaces, original paintings, and elegant
antiques. Four of the five suites are furnished with four-poster or canopied beds,
and all have hand-carved armoires, designer fabrics, and other regal accessories.
All of the castle’s 19 rooms have big, firm beds, huge claw-foot bathtubs, and
splendid views. The atmosphere is warm and graciously informal; the staff is
excellent and members work together as a congenial team. They can help make
arrangements for horseback riding, fishing, watersports, and other local activities.
The Island, Ballinakill, Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/878203. Fax 051/879316. www.waterford
castle.com. 19 units. €220–€330 ($265–$398) double; €375–€560 ($452–$675) suite. Breakfast €16
($19). AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; 18-hole championship golf course; tennis courts;
concierge; room service; laundry and valet service. In room: TV, hair dryer, CD player, radio.
M O D E R AT E
The Bridge Taking its name from its location on the waterfront at the foot of
the Ignatius Rice Bridge, this attractive, red, vintage hotel is one of the city’s old-
est. The public rooms have retained their warm, old-world character, but the
guest rooms have been renovated, trading old character for contemporary con-
venience. The rooms have blond-wood furnishings, firm beds, and bright floral
fabrics; they are surprisingly quiet, despite the hotel’s harried location.
1 The Quay, Waterford, County Waterford. & 800/221-2222 in the U.S. or 051/877222. Fax 051/877229.
www.bridgehotelwaterford.com. 134 units. €98–€138 ($118–$166) double. Rates include service charge
and full Irish breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (Continental, cafe); 2 bars; room service; babysitting.
In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Buggy’s Glencairn Inn Finds Ken and Cathleen Buggy are semicelebri-
ties among Ireland’s B&B aficionados, having run the beloved Old Presbytery in
Kinsale, County Cork, for years before moving to Waterford. Their latest ven-
ture, a lovely honey-yellow farmhouse with an extraordinary restaurant and bar,
is another testimony to their incredible talent for getting the details right. The
guest rooms are chock-full of covetable auction finds: Victorian desks, steamer
trunks above beefy, country armoires, and darling iron-and-brass beds. A bed at
Buggy’s is like something out of a fairy tale—a decadent effect created with a
firm mattress, a small mountain of pillows, a feather-down duvet, and miles of
crisp, billowy sheets of Irish linen. The restaurant (see below) is a foodie’s desti-
nation in itself, with the red-and-white-checked bistro tablecloths and country
pine furniture the perfect backdrop to Ken’s traditional, mouthwatering cook-
ing. The adjoining bar was described by one Irish newspaper as “a dream of a
local pub.” Waking up in one of those fabulous beds, with the sunlight softly
tickling your face and Ken’s delectable breakfast (his homemade soda bread is
legendary) awaiting downstairs, is as good as it gets.
Glencairn, County Waterford (4.8km/3 miles from Lismore). & 058/56232. www.buggys.com. 5 units.
€100–€120 ($120–$145) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed week of Christmas. Amenities:
Restaurant (Irish); bar. In room: TV.
Granville Along the quay-side strip of Waterford’s main business district, this
historic hotel looks out onto the south side of the River Suir. The Granville was
originally a coaching inn, and an adjacent section was the home of Irish patriot
Thomas Francis Meagher and a meeting place for Irish freedom fighters. The
Cusack family bought it in 1980 and totally restored and enlarged it. Today the
Granville is a member of Best Western International. The chain’s refurbishment
of the hotel has preserved its architectural blend while providing handsome
individually styled rooms with orthopedic beds, as well as a new floor of pent-
house suites. Many of the front rooms look out onto the river.
Meagher Quay, Waterford, County Waterford. & 800/538-1234 in the U.S. or 051/305555. Fax 051/305566.
www.bestwestern.com or www.granville-hotel.ie. 98 units. €160–€190 ($193–$229) double. Rates include
full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec 24–27. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; concierge; room serv-
ice; laundry. In room: TV, dataport, hair dryer, ironing board, garment press, radio.
INEXPENSIVE
Aglish House This corner of the Waterford countryside possesses a mix of
sleepy pastoral charm and wild beauty, and Aglish House is an ideal base from
which to explore the area. The B&B is set in a 17th-century manor home,
alongside a working dairy farm. Tom and Teresa Moore are generous hosts, and
breakfast is especially good; dinner is served with advance reservation. All the
guest rooms are comfortably furnished, and the orthopedic beds ensure a good
night’s sleep. As numerous photos and trophies attest, this is a family of avid
cyclists, and they are well versed in the local bicycling routes. A short walk from
the house are the Kiltera Ogham stones, inscribed pillars dating from pre-Chris-
tian times; also nearby is the lovely Blackwater estuary. A short drive brings you
to the coast or the Knockmealdown Mountains.
Aglish, Cappoquin, County Waterford. & 024/96191. Fax 024/96482. www.aglishhouse.com. 4 units, 3 with
private bathroom. €80 ($96) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. In room: TV.
An Bohreen Value Jim and Ann’s little B&B is deceptively modest. Per-
haps it’s the name, which means “the small lane.” As you approach, there’s little
to suggest the gem that lies inside. View the gracious sitting room with its roar-
ing fire, take a look at the impeccable, antiques-furnished guest rooms, and
then—brace yourself—sample the nothing-short-of-amazing cooking. What-
ever you do, don’t miss dinner. You’ll feast on Dungarvan Bay fish soup, prawns
and crab on brown bread with homemade mayonnaise, mushrooms stuffed with
crabmeat and cheese, rack of lamb with fresh herb crust and mint chutney, and
a selection of fabulous homemade breads and desserts. We can’t think of another
B&B in these parts—or anywhere—that offers such value for the money.
Killineen W., Dungarvan, County Waterford. & 051/291010. www.anbohreen.com. 4 units, all with pri-
vate bathroom. €68–€72 ($82–$87) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €32 ($39). AE, MC, V.
Amenities: Sitting room. In room: Tea/coffeemaker.
Brown’s Townhouse Value This delightful Victorian town-house B&B is

the most comfortable place to stay in Waterford town in this price range. Leslie
and Barbara Brown are keen collectors of Irish modern art, and their colorful
paintings hang in every room. Bedrooms are spacious, with big sash windows
and old-fashioned Victorian decor. The best has a roof garden terrace. Brown’s
is on a quiet residential street within walking distance of the city center and
waterfront. Breakfast is a grand affair, with pancakes, homemade breads and pre-
serves, fruit salad, and a “full Irish” fry with eggs, sausages, toast, and bacon.
29 S. Parade, Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/870594. Fax 051/871923. www.brownstownhouse.com.
6 units. €90–€100 ($108–$120) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Dec 25–Jan. Amenities:
Nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV.
Foxmount Country House This elegant, secluded, 17th-century coun-

try home is the perfect place to relax and collect yourself after a busy day of
sightseeing. Margaret and David Kent are superlative hosts who, for more than
3 decades, have been doing all they can to ensure that every guest has a memo-
rable stay. Two adjacent guest rooms share a separate alcove, perfect for a family,
and four double rooms have private bathrooms. All have views of the fields
around the house. Margaret’s breakfasts are bountiful affairs and have won
national awards. A guide to walks in the area is available. The terrific Jack Meade
pub (see listing below) is within walking distance.
Passage E. Rd., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/874308. Fax 051/854906. www.foxmountcountry
house.com. 5 units. €110 ($133) double. 25% discount for children under 12. Rates include full breakfast.
No credit cards. Closed Nov–Feb. In room: TV, hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
Coast INTERNATIONAL Tramore has always been the sleepy, sort of
old-fashioned seaside resort that’s endearing for the way it still exudes the inno-
cence of holiday postcards from days gone by. A charming place, perhaps, but
certainly not the epicenter of hip. So when supergroovy Coast opened in 2002,
it injected a blast-your-socks-off WOW in foodie circles that resonated to
Dublin and back in a nanosecond. Jennifer McNally and Turlough McNamara
have created a dining room that is as chic and understated as you’d hope to find
in Dublin (or New York or London for that matter). Yet it’s the modern, classy
food that really makes you take notice: seared salmon with tabbouleh and sweet-
pepper dressing; chargrilled Asian chicken with garlicky potato salad and
arugula; pan-fried Barbary duck with a honey-and-sherry sauce. Desserts are
dreamy, and from start to finish, the meal delivers just the right balance of zing
and restraint. Food lovers, this is the great address to know about in Waterford.
If you feel like drifting from the dinner table to your bed, there are also four
smartly turned-out, truly luxurious double guest rooms upstairs, available for
€100 to €160 ($120–$193) per night.
Upper Branch Rd., Tramore, County Waterford. & 051/393646. www.coast.ie. Reservations recommended.
Dinner main courses €19–€26 ($23–$31). MC, V. Tues–Sun 6:30–10:30pm; Sun 1–2:30pm; also July–Aug,
Sun 6:30–10:30pm. Closed Dec 24–Jan 1.
The Strand Seafood Restaurant SEAFOOD This intimate restaurant,

attached to two pubs, has an independent reputation for outstanding cuisine. If
you manage to look up from your plate, the views of Waterford Harbour and
the Celtic Sea are stunning. Four or five daily seafood specials augment the
excellent menu. Grilled wild salmon with green gooseberry sauce sounds risky
but generously rewards all takers, and fresh lemon sole stuffed with seafood
mousse is gorgeous. A vegetarian choice is provided each evening; and plates of
crisp sautéed vegetables are liable to appear all by themselves, so be forewarned.
An alluring dessert cart lies in wait at the end of your meal.
In the Strand Inn, Dunmore East, County Waterford. & 051/383174. Reservations recommended. Main
courses €20–€28 ($24–$34). AE, MC, V. Mar–Oct daily 6:30–10pm; Nov–Dec and Feb Wed–Sun 6:30–10pm.
Closed Jan.
The Tannery ECLECTIC EUROPEAN Until 1995 this impressive

stone monument of a building on the quays was an operating tannery; then it
reappeared as a stylish contemporary restaurant that took off like a rocket. The
reason for its success is Paul Flynn, one of the most innovative and iconoclastic
chefs working in Ireland today. He takes every dish—be it an Irish stalwart such
as bacon and colcannon (mashed potatoes and onions) or a Provençal specialty
such as bouillabaisse—and puts his stamp on it to make it his own. His forte is
blending unlikely ingredients to create interesting, creative dishes that seem
impossible on paper but really work—a perfect plum tomato soup; sea bream
with pepperoni and saffron-laced potatoes; French toast with baked apples and
Chantilly cream. There is great discipline and artistry here.
Quay St., Dungarvan, County Waterford (beside the library). & 058/545420. Reservations recommended.
Main courses €20–€26 ($24–$31). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri and Sun 12:30–2:30pm; Tues–Sun 6:30–9:30pm
M O D E R AT E
Bodega! CONTINENTAL If you’re looking for the party place in Waterford,
you just found it. This place screams fun, and draws a young (20-something)
crowd that comes for the great food, loud noise, and convivial atmosphere.
Choose from the specials chalked onto the blackboard menu, which tends to be
heavy on the fish and seafood. Everything’s tasty, so just go for what you like:
Sea bass with string beans and ratatouille? Or how about a fish medley of cod,
salmon, crab ravioli, and mussels? The coffee and desserts are excellent, too, so
leave room to relax at the end of the meal with something sweet.
54 John St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/844177. Lunch main courses €5–€10 ($6–$12); dinner
main courses €14–€21 ($17–$25). MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Wed 6–10pm; Thurs–Sat
6–10:30pm.
Buggy’s Glencairn Inn COUNTRY IRISH Ken Buggy is the best sort
of chef to run across: utterly talented but without a pretentious bone in his body.
He writes out his menu on a chalkboard, focusing on simple food that people
like to eat. Then he cooks everything to perfection. His grilled steak is wonder-
fully grilled, his smoked salmon expertly smoked. He’s particularly gifted with
seafood, sourcing the best local catch and dressing it with just what’s needed to
let the natural flavors shine through. Prices are more than reasonable for this
quality of cooking. The inn itself is reviewed in the previous section.
Glencairn, County Waterford (4.8km/3 miles from Lismore). & 058/56232. www.buggys.com. Reservations
recommended. Main courses €15–€22 ($18–$27). MC, V. Wed–Mon 7:30–9pm.
The Wine Vault WINE BISTRO Waterford’s famed wine merchants

have been popping corks for 800 years, and Fergal Phealon is the city’s current
wine master. The food here is great, the wines are great, but the real magic of
this place is that the room is so welcoming and clubby—red bricks and wood
paneling, just like in your favorite trattoria. Chef Paul Brady features several
daily specials, often focused on the most alluring catch of the day. His herb-
crusted salmon with peppered cucumber and cabernet sauvignon dressing is dis-
armingly simple and perfect, the marinated squid with garlic and ginger a
memorable delicacy. Dennison thinks about how to best match foods to wines
and wines to foods, and he never misses. Desserts, such as the Chocolate Neme-
sis and homemade lemon-curd ice cream, provide the perfect finish to a won-
derful meal. The service here is exceptional—attentiveness without fuss,
sophistication with warmth and humor. Smoking is permitted on the main
floor; nonsmokers have the romantic wine vault to themselves.
High St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/853444. www.waterfordwinevault.com. Reservations rec-
ommended. Main courses €10–€18 ($12–$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm and 5:30–10:30pm.
WATERFORD AFTER DARK

Waterford has two main entertainment centers. Housed in one of Ireland’s largest
arts centers, the Garter Lane Theatre, 22a O’Connell St. (& 051/855038),
presents the work of local production companies such as the Red Kettle and
Waterford Youth Drama. Visiting troupes from all over Ireland also perform
contemporary and traditional works at the 170-seat theater. Performances are
usually Tuesday to Saturday, and tickets average €10 to €13 ($12–$16) for
most events. The box office is open Tuesday to Saturday noon to 6pm, and
accepts MasterCard and Visa.
When big-name Irish or international talents come to Waterford, they usually

perform at the Forum Theatre at the Glen (& 051/871111), a 1,000-seat
house off Bridge Street. Tickets average €13 to €20 ($16–$24), depending on
the event. The box office is open Monday to Friday 11am to 1pm and 2 to 4pm.
The Forum opens a late-night bar, Deja Vu, every Friday and Saturday. There’s
no cover, and the patrons are mostly in their mid- to late 30s.
From May to September, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings at
8:45pm, the historic Waterford City Hall is home to the Waterford Show, a fes-
tive evening of music, storytelling, song, and dance. In summertime be sure to
reserve a place in advance. Credit card bookings (& 051/358397 or
051/381020 after 5pm) are accepted. Admission is €10 ($12), which includes
a preshow drink and a glass of wine during the show.
Otherwise, Waterford’s nightlife is centered in the hotel lounges and in the
city’s interesting assortment of pubs.
PUBS
Jack Meade Waterford’s most unusual pub is not in the city but nestled
beneath an old stone bridge in an area known as Halfway House, 6.5km (4
miles) south of town. Dating from 1705, the pub is widely known by the locals
as Meades Under the Bridge, or “Ireland’s only fly-over pub.” As a public house
with a forge, it was a stopping-off point for travelers between Waterford and Pas-
sage East in the old days. The facade and interior—wooden beams, historical
paintings, antiques, and open, crackling fireplaces—haven’t changed much in
the intervening years. When the weather’s fine, children can take advantage of a
playground area and feed the ducks. In July and August there’s music with sin-
galong sessions on Wednesday nights, and all year impromptu evening sessions
can occur. The grounds include an icehouse, a corn mill, lime kilns, a viaduct,
and a beer garden and barbecue area. On Sundays in summer, barbecues with
outdoor music start at 2pm and run until roughly 7:30pm. From May to
September, bar food is served daily. Cheekpoint Rd., Halfway House, County Waterford.
& 051/850950.
The Kings This pub just off the Mall dates from 1776, when it was called the
Packet Hotel because of its proximity to the Waterford docks and the packet
ships sailing to England. It was often a send-off point for emigrants from Ire-
land. Today it retains its original Georgian-style facade, and the interior reflects
old-world charm, particularly in the cozy 20-seat front bar. Check out the mid-
19th-century bar counter—it has panels that used to hold sandpaper for cus-
tomers to strike a match. 8 Lombard St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/874495.
The Munster The flavor of old Waterford prevails in this 300-year-old build-
ing, which also can be entered from the Mall. Often referred to as Fitzgerald’s
(the name of the family that owns it), this pub is rich in etched mirrors, antique
Waterford glass sconces, and dark-wood walls, some of which are fashioned out
of timber from the old Waterford Toll Bridge. Among the many rooms are an
original “Men’s Bar” and a lively modern lounge, which often features tradi-
tional Irish music on weekends. Bailey’s New St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/
874656.
T. & H. Doolan Once a stagecoach stop, this 170-year-old pub in the center
of town claims to be Waterford’s oldest public house. It is a favorite venue for
evening sessions of ballad, folk, and traditional music. Lanterns light the white-
washed stone walls and a collection of old farm implements, crocks, mugs, and
jugs. 32 George’s St., Waterford, County Waterford. & 051/841504.
3 South Tipperary
Clonmel is 174km (108 miles) SW of Dublin, 182km (113 miles) SE of Galway, 79km (49 miles) SE of Limer-
ick, 103km (64 miles) SE of Shannon Airport, 48km (30 miles) NW of Waterford, and 145km (90 miles) E of
Killarney
South Tipperary is one of Ireland’s best-kept secrets. Here, far from the tour
buses and the clicking of camera shutters, you may just find the Ireland every-
one is looking for: lush, welcoming, unspoiled, and splendidly beautiful.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Clonmel Tourist Office is on Sarsfield
Street, Clonmel (& 052/22960). It’s open year-round Monday to Saturday
9:30am to 5:30pm. Seasonal offices, open June to August, Monday to Satur-
day 9:30am to 6pm, are at Castle Street, Cahir (& 052/41453), and at the
Town Hall, Cashel (& 062/61333). The website for all Southeast tourism is
www.southeastireland.travel.ie. To get the latest on news, listings, and events
in Clonmel and the surrounding area, buy a copy of the local Nationalist,
which hits the stands every Saturday. Among other things, it will tell you what’s
on at the Regal Theatre or the White Memorial Theatre, Clonmel’s principal
venues for the arts.
EXPLORING THE AREA
Clonmel, the capital of Tipperary and the largest inland town in Ireland, is the
unassuming gateway to the region. A working town, as yet undistorted or dis-
tracted by massive tourism, Clonmel has everything you need to establish a
strategic, pleasant base of operations in the Southeast. Poised on the banks of the
Suir, Clonmel once had the distinction of withstanding a Cromwellian siege for
3 months. More recently, the town has successfully resisted the lure of rapid,
unplanned tourism, preserving its own landscape and character and so making
itself all the more attractive to visitors. Its 8km (5-mile) riverfront walkway,
bustling vitality, and prime location all make it a perfect base for exploring one
of the most pristine and stunningly beautiful regions of Ireland.
Whether you’re staying in Clonmel or just passing through, several mar-
velously scenic drives converge here: the Comeragh or Nire Valley Drive deep
into the Comeragh Mountains, which rise from the south banks of the Suir; the
Knockmealdown Drive, through the historic village of Ardfinnan and the Vee
(see below); and the Suir Scenic Drive. All are signposted from Clonmel.
North of Clonmel and deep in the Tipperary countryside, Cashel is not to be
missed. Because it’s on the main N8 road, most people pass through en route
from Dublin to Cork. If your travels don’t take you to Cashel, a side trip from
Waterford is worth the drive. In particular, two scenic routes are well worth a
detour:
At Cahir, head north through the Galtee Mountains , Ireland’s highest
inland mountain range, to the Glen of Aherlow. Often called “Ireland’s Green-
est Valley,” the 11km (7-mile) Glen of Aherlow is a secluded and scenic area that
was an important pass between the plains of counties Tipperary and Limerick.
If you’re driving south into Waterford, head for the “Vee.” This 18km-long
(11-mile) road winds through the Knockmealdown Mountains from Clogheen
to Lismore and Cappoquin in County Waterford. It’s one of the most dramatic
drives in the Southeast or, for that matter, anywhere in Ireland. The high point
of the Vee is at the Tipperary-Waterford border, where the two slopes of the pass
converge to frame the patchwork fields of the Galtee Valley far below. At this
S O U T H T I P P E R A RY 241
point, numerous walking trails lead to the nearby peaks and down to the moun-
tain lake of Petticoat Loose—named after a, shall we say, less-than-exemplary
lady. A more edifying local character was Samuel Grubb, of Castle Grace, who
so loved these slopes that he left instructions that he should be buried upright
overlooking them. And so he is. The rounded stone cairn you might notice off
the road between Clogheen and the Vee is where he stands in place, entombed,
facing the Golden Vale of Tipperary.
Ahenny High Crosses You’re likely to have this little-known and rarely vis-
ited site to yourself, except for the cows whose pasture you will cross to reach it.
The setting is idyllic and, on a bright day, gorgeous. The remarkably well pre-
served Ahenny high crosses are among the oldest in Ireland, dating from the 8th
or 9th century. Tradition associates them with seven saintly bishops, all broth-
ers, who are said to have been waylaid and murdered. Their unusual stone
“caps,” thought by some to be bishops’ miters, more likely suggest the transition
from wood crosses, which would have had small roofs to shelter them from the
rain. Note, too, their intricate spiral and cable ornamentation in remarkably
high relief, which may well have been inspired by earlier Celtic metalwork. Irish
high crosses compose some of the most striking monuments of early Christian-
ity in Ireland, and these are among the finest and most important examples of
the form.
Kil Crispeen Churchyard, Ahenny, County Tipperary. 8km (5 miles) north of Carrick-on-Suir, signposted off
R697. Open site. Box for donations.
Athassel Priory This is the largest medieval priory in Ireland, spread out
over 1.6 hectares (4 acres), and although it is in ruins, many delightful details
from the original structure remain. This was an Augustinian priory, founded in
the late 12th century; the remaining structures date from that time until the
mid–15th century. The main approach is over a low stone bridge and through a
gatehouse that was the focal point of the outer fortifications. The church
entrance is a beautifully carved doorway at its west end. To the south of the
church is the cloister, whose graceful arches have been largely eroded by time.
Don’t miss the carved face protruding from the southwest corner of the chapel
tower, about 9m (30 ft.) above ground level.
3.2km (2 miles) south of Golden, County Tipperary. Take signposted road from Golden, on the N74; the priory
is in a field just east of the road. Open site.
The Bolton Library In this library, you’ll see the smallest book in the world,
as well as other rare, antiquarian, and unusual books dating from the 12th cen-
tury. Ensconced here are works by Dante, Swift, Calvin, Newton, Erasmus, and
Machiavelli. Also on display are some silver altar pieces from the original cathe-
dral on the Rock of Cashel.
On the grounds of St. John the Baptist Church, John St., Cashel, County Tipperary. & 062/61944. Admission
€2 ($2.40) adults, €1.30 ($1.55) seniors and students, €.70 (85¢) children. Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm; Sun
2:30–5:30pm. Closed Mon Mar–Sept.
Brú Ború Heritage Centre At the foot of the Rock of Cashel, this mod-
ern complex adds a musical element to the historic Cashel area. Operated by
Comhaltas Ceoltoiri Eireann, Ireland’s foremost traditional-music organization,
Brú Ború presents daily performances of authentic Irish traditional music at an
indoor theater. Many summer evenings feature concerts in the open-air
amphitheater. A gift shop, restaurant, and self-service snack bar are also on hand.
Rock Lane, Cashel, County Tipperary. & 062/61122. Free admission to center; show €15 ($18); 7pm dinner
and show €40 ($48) adults, €20 ($24) children. Oct–Apr daily 9am–5:30pm; May–Sept daily 9am–5pm.
Shows mid-June to mid-Sept Tues–Sat 9pm.
Cahir Castle On a rock in the middle of the River Suir, this is one of Ire-
land’s largest medieval fortresses. Its origins can be traced from the 3rd century,
when a fort was built on the rock—hence the town’s original name, City of the
Fishing Fort. The present structure, which belonged to the Butler family from
1375 to 1961, is Norman and dates to the 13th and 15th centuries. It has a mas-
sive keep, high walls, spacious courtyards, and a great hall, all fully restored. The
interpretive center offers an engaging 20-minute video introduction to the
region’s major historic sites, as well as guided tours of the castle grounds. Be sure
to walk through the castle buildings, which are not included in the tour.
Cahir, County Tipperary. & 052/41011. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50)
students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. Mid-Mar to mid-June and mid-Sept to mid-Oct daily 9:30am–
5:30pm; mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm; mid-Oct to mid-Mar daily 9:30am–4:30pm.
Ormond Castle The mid-15th-century castle built by Sir Edward

MacRichard Butler on this strategic bend of the River Suir has lain in ruins for
centuries. What still stands, attached to the ancient battlements, is the last sur-
viving Tudor manor house in Ireland. Trusting that “if he built it, she would
come,” Thomas Butler constructed an extensive manor in honor of his most suc-
cessful relation, Queen Elizabeth I—whose mother, Anne Boleyn, is rumored to
have been born in Ormond Castle. She never came, but many others have, espe-
cially since the Heritage Service partially restored this impressive piece of Irish
history. Current plans include an elaborate furnishing of the Earl’s Room in
period style. The manor’s plasterwork, carvings, period furniture, and startling
collection of original 17th- and 18th-century royal charters will make you glad
you bothered to visit and wonder why Queen Elizabeth didn’t.
Signposted from the center of Carrick-on-Suir, Carrick-on-Suir, County Tipperary. & 051/640787. Admission
€2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. June–
Sept daily 9:30am–6:30pm. Closed Oct–May.
The Rock of Cashel When you reach the town of Cashel, look for signs
to the Rock of Cashel, which dominates the Tipperary countryside for miles. An
outcrop of limestone reaching 60m (200 ft.) into the sky, “the Rock” tells the
tales of 16 centuries. It was the castled seat of the kings of Munster at least as far
back as A.D. 360, and it remained a royal fortress until 1101, when King
Murtagh O’Brien granted it to the church. Among Cashel’s many great
moments was the legendary baptism of King Aengus by St. Patrick in 448.
Remaining on the rock are the ruins of a two-towered chapel, a cruciform cathe-
dral, a 28m (92-ft.) round tower, and a cluster of other medieval monuments.
The views of and from the Rock are spectacular. Forty-five-minute guided tours
are available on request.
Cashel, County Tipperary. & 062/61437. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors, €2 ($2.40) stu-
dents and children, €11 ($13) families. Mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm; mid-Sept to mid-Mar daily
9am–4:45pm; mid-Mar to mid-June daily 9am–5:30pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing.
Swiss Cottage The earls of Glengall used the Swiss Cottage as a hunting and
fishing lodge as far back as 1812. It’s a superb example of “cottage orné”: a rus-
tic house embodying the ideal of simplicity that so appealed to the Romantics
of the early 19th century. The thatched-roof cottage has extensive timberwork,
usually not seen in Ireland, and is believed to have been designed by John Nash,
a royal architect. The interior has some of the first wallpaper commercially pro-
duced in Paris. The guided tour (the only way to see the building) lasts approx-
imately 40 minutes.
Off Dublin-Cork rd. (N8), Cahir, County Tipperary. & 052/41144. Guided tour €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2
($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, 7 ($8.45) families. Late Mar and mid-Oct to Nov
Tues–Sun 10am–1pm and 2–4:30pm; Apr Tues–Sun 10am–1pm and 2–6pm; May to mid-Oct daily
10am–6pm. Closed Dec to late Mar.
Tipperary Crystal This crystal factory, one of Ireland’s top producers, is

laid out in the style of traditional Irish cottages, complete with a thatched roof.
Visitors are welcome to watch master craftspeople as they mouth-blow and hand-
cut crystal. Unlike other crystal factories, Tipperary imposes no restriction on pho-
tographs and video recorders. The facility includes a showroom and restaurant.
Waterford-Limerick rd. (N24), Ballynoran, Carrick-on-Suir, County Tipperary. & 051/641188. Free admission.
Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm; Sun 11am–5pm.

BIRD-WATCHING As many as 15 species of Irish water birds—including
mute swans, coots, wigeons, gadwalls, teals, grey herons, and moorhens—can be
seen at the Marlfield Lake Wildfowl Refuge, several miles west of Clonmel in
Marlfield. This is a little lake with an astonishing number of birds. On your way,
you will likely pass signposts for St. Patrick’s Well, less than a mile away, a tran-
quil spot with an effervescent pool of reputedly healing crystalline water. In the
middle of the pool rises a seriously ancient Celtic cross. The legend that Patrick
visited here seems more solidly rooted than most such claims. Even saints get
thirsty.
BICYCLING For complete 1- or 2-week cycling holidays in the Southeast,
contact Don Smith at Celtic Cycling, Lorum Old Rectory, Bagenalstown,
County Carlow (&/fax 059/977-5282).
FISHING The River Suir, from Carrick-on-Suir to Thurles, was once one of
the finest salmon rivers in Europe, but recent excessive trawling at its mouth has
threatened its stock. It’s still a decent salmon river, especially in the February run
and from June to September. Trout (brown and rainbow) are in abundance here
in the summer. Here you’ll find some of the least expensive game fishing in Ire-
land; single weekday permits cost €20 to €32 ($24–$39) for salmon, €7
($8.45) for trout. They are available from Kavanagh Sports, Westgate, Clon-
mel, County Tipperary (&/fax 052/21279), as is everything else you’ll need.
Manager Declan Byrne can outfit you with all of the essentials and more. To ori-
ent yourself and to consider your options, pick up a copy of Angling on the Suir,
a quite helpful pamphlet available at the Tourist Office. The River Nore and the
nearby River Barrow are also known for good salmon and trout fishing.
For sea fishing, picturesque Dunmore East, 13km (8 miles) south of Water-
ford, is a good bet. Contact John O’Connor (& 051/383397) to charter a boat
for reef, wreck, and shark fishing. Boat charter rates are €350 to €400 ($422–
$482) per day; rod and reel can also be rented. The species you’re likely to
encounter in this area during the summer include blue shark, cod, bass, whit-
ing, conger, and ling.
HORSEBACK RIDING For trekking and trail riding on the slopes of the
Comeragh Mountains, you can’t do better than Melodys Nire Valley Eques-
trian Centre, Nire View, Ballycarbry, Clonmel (& 052/36147).
SWIMMING If you’re staying in the area, you’re welcome to swim at the
Clonmel Civic Swimming Pool (& 052/21972), near the Market Place. It’s
open Monday to Friday 9am to 9:45pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 7:45pm.
Call for specific public swimming hours.
TENNIS The courts of the Hillview Sports Club, Mountain Road, Clonmel
(& 052/21805), may be used by visitors.
WALKING R668 between Clogheen and Lismore is one of the most scenic
stretches of road in the Southeast, and some great walks begin at the Vee Gap,
a dramatic notch in the Knockmealdown Mountains. About 2.4km (11⁄2 miles)
north of R669 and R668, you reach the highest point in the gap; there is a park-
ing lot, as well as a dirt road continuing down to a lake nestled into the slope
below. This is Bay Lough, and the dirt road used to be the main thoroughfare
over the gap; it now offers a fine walk to the shores of the lake, with outstand-
ing views of the valley to the north. For a panoramic perspective of the region,
start walking due east from the gap parking lot to the summit of Sugarloaf Hill;
the hike is extremely steep, but well worth the effort—the views from the ridge
are superb.
In the Clonmel area, there are a number of excellent river and hill walks, some
more challenging than others. The most spectacular is the ascent of famed
Slievenamon, a mountain rich in myth and lore. Inexpensive, detailed trail
maps for at least a half-dozen walks are available at the Clonmel Tourist Office
on Sarsfield Street, Clonmel. Also available is a free leaflet guide to the birds,
butterflies, and flora of nearby Wilderness Gorge.
The Galtee Mountains, northwest of the Knockmealdowns, offer some great
long and short walks. One beautiful route on a well-defined trail is the circuit of
Lake Muskry, on the north side of the range. To get there, take R663 west out
of Bansha, and follow signs for the town of Rossadrehid. To get to the trail, ask
for directions in Rossadrehid; there are several turns, and the landmarks change
frequently because of logging in the region. The trail leads you up a glaciated
valley to the base of a ring of cliffs, where the crystalline waters of Lake Muskry
lie; from here you can walk around the lake, take in the tremendous views of the
valley, and return the way you came. Walking time to the lake and back is
3 hours.
Another option on this walk is to continue up past the lake to the top of the
ridge, and from there along the ridge top to Galtymore, a prominent dome-
shaped peak about 4.8km (3 miles) west of Lake Muskry. It is a beautiful but
extremely demanding walk, about 6 hours to Galtymore and back. This is only
one of many extraordinary walks in the Glen of Aherlow. Trail maps and all the
information and assistance you could think of asking for are available at the
Glen of Aherlow Failte Centre, Coach Road, Newtown (& 062/56331), ably
directed by Helen Morrissey. It’s open daily June to October from 9:30am to
5:30pm.
WHERE TO STAY
EXPENSIVE
Cashel Palace Hotel Originally built in 1730 as a residence for Church
of Ireland archbishops, this mammoth redbrick Palladian mansion has been a
hotel for over 30 years. It has an ideal location, right in the middle of Cashel
town yet within its own walled grounds, and recent owners have thoroughly
updated the property and filled it with antiques and designer-coordinated fab-
rics. The house itself is a proud display of lofty, corniced ceilings, Corinthian pil-
lars, mantelpieces of Kilkenny marble, and a paneled early Georgian staircase of
red pine. Guest rooms in the main house are beautifully appointed to reflect the
taste of the 18th-century upper crust, and have big four-poster or mahogany
beds and spacious bathrooms. The 10 rooms in the charming Mews House give
visitors a cozy nook next to the hotel. The Bishop’s Buttery restaurant offers
splendid views of the revered Rock, especially at night when it is floodlit. The
well-tended back garden holds mulberry bushes planted in 1702 to commemo-
rate the coronation of Queen Anne, and a private pathway known as the
Bishop’s Walk that runs up a hill to the Rock of Cashel.
Main St., Cashel, County Tipperary. & 800/221-1074, 800/223-6510 in the U.S., or 062/62707. Fax 062/
61521. www.cashel-palace.ie. 23 units. €185–€305 ($223–$366) double. Rates include service charge and
full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, cafe); bar; babysitting; drawing
room. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Hotel Minella The attractive centerpiece of this sprawling hotel com-
plex along the River Suir was built in 1863. Its many additions have made it not
only a haven for tourists but also a haunt for locals, whether they’re celebrating
a wedding or merely a Friday night out. Its riverbank location and attractive
landscaping give it an appeal beyond its somewhat-incongruous mix of archi-
tectural styles. Once you’re inside, its warm, welcoming, and utterly comfortable
atmosphere take over. The standard guest rooms are furnished traditionally in
dark woods and paisley prints. The Jacuzzi suites have Jacuzzi tubs, while the
steam room suites are especially spacious and luxuriant, with rich colors, four-
poster canopy beds, and private steam rooms with showers. All the rooms have
views either of the river or of the nearby mountains. Perhaps the chief appeal of
this hotel is its new, fully equipped, state-of-the-art health-and-fitness club to
which guests have unlimited free access. You could easily spend several days
making use of the facilities.
1.6km (1 mile) east of Clonmel center on the south bank of the River Suir, Coleville Rd., Clonmel, County Tip-
perary. & 052/22388. Fax 052/24381. www.hotelminella.ie. 70 units. €180 ($217) double; €200–€230
($240–$277) suite. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant
(international); bar; 2 lounges; indoor swimming pool; outdoor hot tub; all-season tennis court; gym; indoor
Jacuzzi; sauna; aromatherapy steam room; room service; massage; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; non-
smoking rooms; currency exchange; therapy rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, iron, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Dundrum House Hotel Located 9.7km (6 miles) northwest of Cashel, this
impressive Georgian country manor is nestled in the fertile Tipperary country-
side, surrounded by 40 hectares (100 acres) of grounds and gardens. The River
Multeen runs through the property. Originally built as a residence in 1730 by
the earl of Montalt, it was used as a convent school, then transformed into a
hotel in 1978 by local residents Austin and Mary Crowe. It is furnished with
assorted heirlooms, vintage curios, Victorian pieces, and reproductions. Each
room is individually decorated in a traditional and slightly dated, feminine feel,
some with four-poster beds or hand-carved headboards, armoires, vanities, and
other traditional furnishings. Look for exceptional weekend specials on offer all
year, such as €230 ($277) double for 2 nights B&B plus one dinner from May
to September. The hotel’s bar is especially appealing, set in a former chapel with
stained-glass windows.
Dundrum, County Tipperary. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 062/71116. Fax 062/71366. www.dundrum
househotel.com. 86 units. €160 ($193) double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. Weekend discounts avail-
able. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Irish/Continental); bar; indoor pool; 18-hole championship golf
course; gym; sauna; horseback riding; trout fishing privileges. In room: TV, hair dryer, radio.
Kilcoran Lodge Hotel A former hunting lodge nestled on 8 hectares (20 acres)
of wooded grounds, this old Victorian treasure is on a hillside set back from the
main road a few miles west of Cahir. It was totally renovated and refurbished in
1998. The public areas retain their old-world charm, with open fireplaces,
grandfather clocks, antique tables and chairs, brass fixtures, and tall windows
that frame expansive views of the Suir Valley and Knockmealdown Mountains.
Guest rooms are basically but comfortably appointed and have modern bath-
rooms. The bar is noted for its excellent daytime pub grub, which includes Irish
stew, traditional boiled bacon and cabbage, homemade soups, and hot scones.
Dublin-Cork rd. (N8), Cahir, County Tipperary. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 052/41288. Fax 052/41994. 25
units. €110 ($133) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant
(international); bar; lounge; indoor swimming pool; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna; solarium. In room: TV, tea/cof-
feemaker, hair dryer, garment press, radio.
Legends Guesthouse & The Kiln Finds What sets this guesthouse apart
from the pack is its fabulous Kiln restaurant and the fact that, after dinner, you
can climb upstairs and into bed and enjoy an unobstructed view of the floodlit
Rock of Cashel. Downstairs in The Kiln’s kitchen, Michael O’Neill is celebrated
for his simple but wonderful cooking. As a starter, try the twice-baked cheese
soufflé roasted in cream with spring onion and tomato, before moving on to a
fish dish, perhaps pan-fried brill with chive butter and tomato fondue. Desserts,
like the star-anise crème brûlée with poached pear, are models of understated
elegance. The dining room has a terrific placement, looking onto the Rock of
Cashel. Guest rooms are modest but homey, with pine furniture and modern
bathrooms. Breakfasts are wonderful.
The Kiln, Cashel, County Tipperary. & 062/61292. Fax 062/62876. 7 units. €110–€128 ($133–$154) dou-
ble. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental). In room: TV.
Mobarnane House This elegant, splendidly restored 18th-century farm-

house was opened in 2000 as a B&B and immediately became popular with dis-
cerning travelers in search of a period setting, tranquil surroundings, and warm
hospitality. Richard Craik-White is a terrific chef, and his wife, Sandra, is a warm
hostess. Dinner is served at 8pm at a communal table for all the guests. Guest
rooms are pretty in cream or blue, furnished with mahogany pieces and antiques.
The best two rooms have mountain views and their own sitting rooms; the other
two face the lake and are equally pretty but not as large. The 24-hectare (60-acre)
estate of woodlands, meadows, and gardens—complete with a 1.2-hectare (3-acre)
lake—makes this a particularly wonderful base for walkers.
Fethard, County Tipperary. &/fax 052/31962. www.mobarnanehouse.com. 4 units. €150–€200 ($181–
$240) double. 4-course dinner €45 ($54). Rates include service charge and full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities:
Drawing room. In room: TV.
INEXPENSIVE
Bansha House Mary and John Marnane have won many well-deserved
awards during 25 years of offering accommodations in their elegant, comfort-
able Georgian manor farmhouse. The guest rooms are nicely appointed with
sturdy country furniture and have a feminine feel, but unfortunately the largest
rooms lack private bathrooms. The self-catering Primrose Cottage, which sleeps
five, is perfect for families and folks who want to do their own cooking. The
town of Bansha sits at the base of the magnificent Galtee Mountains, which
dominate the skyline on a clear day and make this house a great base for walk-
ing and bicycling or just taking in the scenery. The adjacent Bansha House Sta-
bles is one of the area’s top professional breeding stables.
Bansha, County Tipperary. & 062/54194. Fax 062/54215. www.tipp.ie/banshahs.htm. 8 units, 5 with private
bathroom. €70–€90 ($84–$108) double. Rates include full breakfast. Cottage €300–€450 ($360–$540) per
week. MC, V. Closed Dec 20–28. Amenities: Sitting room.
Kilmaneen Farmhouse Value This small gem of a B&B has recently been
winning both national and regional accommodations and landscaping awards.
The guest rooms are spotless and beautifully appointed. Better yet, the mountain
location is breathtaking and there is great fishing available on the farm. You can
cast for trout here, into either the Suir or the Tar, without any permit required,
and you will be provided with a fisherman’s hut for tying flies, storing equip-
ment, and drying waders. If the mountains hold more allure for you, your host,
Kevin O’Donnell, is trained in mountaineering and leads trekking and walking
tours into the nearby Knockmealdowns, Comeraghs, or Galtee mountains.
If you decide you want to stay a week and not a night, you may want to con-
sider the O’Donnells’ fully equipped guest cottage, cozy enough for two and
spacious enough for five. It rents for anywhere from €150 to €350
($181–$422), depending on the season and the number of occupants. Finding
your way here can be tricky, so call ahead and ask for detailed directions.
Newcastle, County Tipperary. &/fax 052/36231. www.kilmaneen.com. 3 units (2 with shower only). €75
($90) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €23 ($28). MC, V. Open year-round. In room: Tea/cof-
feemaker.
Mr. Bumbles Value Located above Declan Gavigan’s Mr. Bumbles restaurant
(see “Where to Dine,” below), with their own exterior staircase, these four
rooms are basic but bright and simple. They are meticulously clean and have
firm beds. The family room sleeps three. If you crave a night off from the social
rituals of the standard B&B and want an excellent breakfast, this is the place.
Better yet, it’s possible to negotiate a B&B-and-dinner combination, which all
but guarantees sweet dreams.
Richmond House, Kickham St., Clonmel, County Tipperary (top of Clonmel Market Place). & 052/29380. Fax
052/29007. 4 units (all with shower only). €70 ($84) double; €80 ($96) family room. Rates include full break-
fast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international). In room: TV.
Coopers Cottage This adorable Victorian cottage is perfect for a family
wanting to explore the southeastern counties of Tipperary, Waterford, and
Kilkenny. Stella and Eamonn Long have lovingly restored and renovated this
19th-century cooper’s cottage, once Eamonn’s family home, into an extraordi-
narily comfortable and tasteful country hideaway. While retaining the original
cozy proportions and traditional lines, the Longs have created a house full of
light, with generous skylights and windows opening to spectacular views of the
Galtee Mountains. The furnishings have a bright, contemporary feel. The house,
which has three bedrooms and sleeps six, comes with absolutely everything, and
there’s even a barbecue and a lovely modest fenced-in garden, with a patio area
for sunny days.
1.6km (1 mile) off N24 at Bansha, Raheen, Bansha, County Tipperary. & 062/54027. Fax 062/54027. www.
dirl.com/tipperary/coopers.htm. 1 cottage. €320–€450 ($386–$542) per week. No credit cards. Amenities:
Patio. In room: TV, kitchen, dishwasher, dryer, microwave, washing machine.
WHERE TO DINE
Chez Hans CONTINENTAL/SEAFOOD It’s not surprising that the
Rock of Cashel, a landmark in Irish royal and ecclesiastical history, would
inspire a great restaurant. The dining room is one of the prettiest places to eat
in Ireland—a former Gothic chapel in the shadow of the mighty rock. The
cathedral-style ceiling, original stone walls, lyrical background music, and can-
dlelight atmosphere create the perfect setting for the cooking of Jason Matthaie,
son of owner Peter Hans Matthaie, who started his restaurant in 1968. His
repertoire includes such dishes as Dublin Bay prawn bisque, cassoulet of
seafood, roast sea scallops, succulent herb-crusted roast Tipperary lamb, and
free-range duckling with honey and thyme. The flavors are luxurious, the por-
tions generous, the crowd appreciative.
Rockside, Cashel, County Tipperary. & 062/61177. Reservations required. Main courses €26–€32 ($31–$39).
MC, V. Tues–Sat 6:30–10pm. Closed last 2 weeks in Jan and last 2 weeks in Sept.
Knocklofty House Restaurant CONTINENTAL A special spot fre-

quented by locals as well as visitors, this restaurant boasts excellent cuisine served
in a warm oak-paneled dining room overlooking the Suir River. It’s a ritual to
peruse the menu over drinks in the library; you are called when your meal is
ready. The fixed-price lunch menu offers a range of international dishes, from
chicken with mozzarella and sweet jalapeño chile to roast beef with Yorkshire
pudding. At dinner we found the tender rack of lamb with sun-dried tomato
and basil-scented jus and the whole pan-fried back sole meunière truly delicious.
Fresh ingredients, inventive sauces, and generous portions are the hallmarks of
this most pleasant restaurant. The menu changes weekly to take advantage of
what’s available at local markets.
In Knocklofty Country House, 4.8km (3 miles) west of Clonmel (signposted from R665), Clonmel, County Tip-
perary. Hotel & 052/38222. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price lunch €23 ($27); fixed-price dinner
€35 ($42); dinner main courses €15–€23 ($18–$28). AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30–10:30am and 12:30–2:30pm;
Mon–Sat 7:30–9:30pm; Sun 6:30–8pm.
Mr. Bumbles INTERNATIONAL With its natural woods, bright colors,

and bistro feel, this split-level restaurant is very inviting and the food simply
first-rate. Many dishes are grilled or pan-seared with a Mediterranean slant to
the spicing, and all are brilliantly fresh. Wild sea trout, Tipperary sirloin, and
Mediterranean vegetables are representative entrees. The presentation is gor-
geous, and portions are generous. The French house wines are quite fine and rea-
sonable at roughly €14 ($17), and the French and Australian entries on the
international wine list are particularly strong.
Richmond House, Kickham St., Clonmel, County Tipperary. & 052/29188. www.tipp.ie/mrbumbles.htm.
Reservations recommended. Fixed-price 2-course dinner €24 ($29); 3-course dinner €27 ($33); main courses
€18–€26 ($22–$31). MC, V. Thurs–Fri and Sun noon–2:30pm; Mon–Fri 5–9:30pm; Sat 6–10pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Angela’s Wholefood Restaurant Value CAFETERIA Angela’s offers
scrumptious, substantial fare at remarkable value. The blackboard menu might
include custom-made breakfast omelets, spicy Moroccan lamb stew, savory
tomato-and-spinach flan Provençal, homemade soups, sandwiches made to
COUNTY KILKENNY 249
order, and an array of delicious salads. The food is vibrant, fresh, and appreci-
ated by the bustling patrons who line up with trays in hand, from barristers (in
garb) to babysitters.
14 Abbey St., Clonmel, County Tipperary. & 052/26899. Breakfast menu €2.50–€5 ($3–$6); lunch menu
€2.50–€9 ($3–$11). No credit cards. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm; Sat noon–5pm.
PUBS
Gerry Chawkes Chawkes is a Clonmel landmark, a shrine not so much to
stout as to sport. A fanatic of hurling and racing (dogs and horses), Gerry
Chawke has made his pub a cult place, lined with fascinating sports memora-
bilia. Athletic clubs from throughout Ireland make a point of stopping here, as
do local politicians in recovery from council meetings. You, too, will quickly be
at home—Gerry will see to that. 3 Gladstone St. Upper, Clonmel, County Tipperary. & 052/
21149.
Railway Bar Finds You’ll need on-the-ground directions to find Kitty’s, which
is what locals call this pub. Roughly, it’s in a cul-de-sac behind the train station.
Any effort you make to find your way will not be wasted, especially on week-
ends, when a traditional-music session is likely to break out at any time. This is
the mother of all Irish music pubs in Clonmel. No one is paid or even invited
to play here; they just do. Often, there are so many musicians and so many
wanting to hear them that the music spills outside, down the lane. No frills
here—just the best Irish music around, and a pub out of the who-knows-when
past. Sadly, Kitty has now passed away, but her two daughters and son are car-
rying on admirably in her name and tradition. Clonmel, County Tipperary. No phone.
The Ronald Reagan Yes, there really is a pub named after the former U.S.
president, right in the middle of the town that was home to his great-grandfa-
ther, Michael Reagan. Filled with pictures and mementos of the president’s June
3, 1984, visit to Ballyporeen, with a mural of the original Reagan homestead
cottage on the back wall, the bar is part of the pub and gift-shop complex of
local entrepreneur John O’Farrell. Partisan politics aside, it’s worth a stop for a
toast or at least a picture. Main St., Ballyporeen, County Tipperary. & 052/67133.
Tierney’s This is truly a show pub, with all of the ribbons to prove it. In 8 of
the past 12 years, it was named Tipperary Pub of the Year and twice the Mun-
ster Pub of the Year. First of all, it’s remarkably classy, with lots of dark carved
wood, shiny brass railings and fitments, and stained glass. It goes on and on
from one level to another, with all manner of separate lounges, dining rooms,
nooks, and snugs. Upstairs, there is a full-service restaurant with several distinct
dining rooms, each with its own character, and a walled floral beer garden for
outside drinks and meals when the weather is gracious. 13 O’Connell St., Clonmel,
County Tipperary. & 052/24467.
4 County Kilkenny
Kilkenny City is 48km (30 miles) N of Waterford, 81km (50 miles) NW of Wexford, 121km (75 miles) SW of
Dublin, 137km (85 miles) SE of Shannon Airport, 148km (92 miles) NE of Cork, and 61km (38 miles) NE of
Cashel
Kilkenny City , the centerpiece of County Kilkenny and the Southeast’s
prime inland city, is considered the medieval capital of Ireland because of its
remarkable collection of well-preserved castles, churches, public buildings,
streets, and lanes. But, perhaps more interestingly for shoppers, it’s also the
national center for crafts and design, with perhaps the country’s best selection of
pottery, woodwork, jewelry, and other handmade items. Its lively pub and enter-
tainment circuit (including several comedy festivals throughout the year) also
make Kilkenny a top weekend getaway destination for Dubliners and Corkoni-
ans. The bad news is that this newfound popularity comes at a price, and we’ve
witnessed soaring hotel rates in Kilkenny in recent years.
Situated along the banks of the River Nore, Kilkenny (pop. 11,000) takes its
name from a church founded in the 6th century by St. Canice. In the Irish lan-
guage, Cill Choinnigh means “Canice’s Church.”
Like most Irish cities, Kilkenny had fallen into Norman hands by the 12th
century. Thanks to its central location, it became a prosperous walled city and
served as the venue for many parliaments during the 14th century. Fortunately,
much of Kilkenny’s great medieval architecture has been preserved and restored,
and the basic town plan has not changed much with the passing of the centuries.
It’s still a very walkable community of narrow streets and arched lanes.
The oldest house in town is purported to be Kyteler’s Inn on St. Kieran
Street. It was once the home of Dame Alice Kyteler, a lady of great wealth who
was accused of witchcraft in 1324. She escaped and forever disappeared, but her
maid, Petronilla, was burned at the stake. Now restored, the inn is currently used
as a pub and restaurant, but it retains an eerie air, with appropriately placed effi-
gies of witches and other memorabilia and decorations.
One building that stands out on the streetscape is the Tholsel, on High
Street, with its curious clock tower and front arcade. Otherwise known as the
city hall, it was erected in 1761 as the tollhouse or exchange. Milk and sugar
candy were sold here, and dances, bazaars, and political meetings were also held
here. Today, completely restored after a fire in 1987, it houses the city’s munic-
ipal archives.
Primarily a farming area, the surrounding County Kilkenny countryside is
dotted with rich river valleys, rolling pasturelands, gentle mountains, and pic-
ture-postcard towns. Don’t miss Jerpoint Abbey, on the River Nore just south-
west of Thomaston on N9, one of the finest of Ireland’s Cistercian ruins. Also
on the Nore is the village of Inistioge , about 24km (15 miles) southeast of
Kilkenny City. Inistioge has an attractive tree-lined square and a much-pho-
tographed 18th-century bridge of nine arches spanning the river.
The town of Graiguenamanagh—its name means “village of the monks”—is
home to Duiske Abbey. Surrounded by vistas of Brandon Hill and the Black-
stairs Mountains, Graiguenamanagh is at a bend of the River Barrow, about
32km (20 miles) southeast of Kilkenny City.
Kells, about 9.7km (6 miles) south of Kilkenny City (not to be confused with
Kells in County Meath), is the only completely walled medieval town in Ireland.
The extensive curtain walls, seven towers, and some of the monastic buildings
have been well preserved.
KILKENNY CITY ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Irish Rail provides daily service from Dublin into the
Irish Rail McDonagh Station, Dublin Road, Kilkenny (& 056/772-2024; www.
irishrail.ie).
Bus Eireann, McDonagh Station, Dublin Road, Kilkenny (& 056/776-4933;
www.buseireann.ie), operates daily service from Dublin and all parts of Ireland.
COUNTY KILKENNY 251
Many roads pass through Kilkenny, including the N9/N10 from Waterford
and Wexford, the N8 and N76 from Cork and the southwest, the N7 and N77
from Limerick and the west, and the N9 and N78 from Dublin and points
north and east.
VISITOR INFORMATION For information, maps, and brochures about
Kilkenny and the surrounding area, contact the Kilkenny Tourist Office, Shee
Alms House, Rose Inn Street, Kilkenny (& 056/775-1500; www.southeastire-
land.travel.ie). It’s open April to October, Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm;
November to March, Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm.
CITY LAYOUT The main business district sits on the west bank of the River
Nore. A 1.6km-long (1 mile) north-south thoroughfare, High Street, runs the
length of the city, changing its name to Parliament Street at midpoint. It starts
at the Parade, on the south end near Kilkenny Castle, and continues through the
city to St. Canice’s Cathedral at the northern end. Most of the city’s attractions
are along this route or on offshoot streets such as Patrick, Rose Inn, Kieran, and
John. The tourist office can supply you with a good street map.
GETTING AROUND There is no downtown bus service in Kilkenny. Local
buses run to nearby towns on a limited basis, departing from the Parade. Check
with Bus Eireann (& 056/776-4933; www.buseireann.ie) for details.
If you need a taxi, call Nicky Power Taxi (& 056/776-3000), Billy Delaney
Cabs (& 056/772-2457), or Kilkenny Taxi Service (& 056/776-3017).
Don’t even try to drive in town—Kilkenny’s narrow medieval streets make for
extremely slow-moving traffic, and you’ll almost certainly get stuck. If you have
a car, park it at one of the designated parking areas at the Parade, the rail station,
or one of the shopping centers. Some parking is free, and other spaces have coin-
operated machines, usually for €.50 (60¢) per hour. There’s also a central mul-
tistory car park on Ormonde Street, which costs €1 ($1.20) per hour until you
reach €8 ($9.65), which will last you for 24 hours. If you need to rent a car to
see the surrounding countryside, call Barry Pender, Dublin Road, Kilkenny
(& 056/776-5777 or 056/776-3839).
The best way to see Kilkenny City is on foot. Plot your own route or join a
guided walking tour (see below).
FAST FACTS If you need a drugstore, try John Street Pharmacy, 47 John St.
(& 056/776-5971); John O’Connell, 4 Rose Inn St. (& 056/772-1033); or
White’s Chemist, 5 High St. (& 056/772-1328).
In an emergency, dial & 999. The local Garda Station is on Dominic Street
(& 056/772-2222).
If you need to access the Internet, try the Kilkenny Library at 6 John’s Quay
(& 056/772-2021), open Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am to 1pm, Tuesday to
Friday 2 to 5pm, and Tuesday and Wednesday 7 to 9pm. Web-Talk, Rose Inn
Street (no phone), is an Internet cafe with ISDN Internet access; open Monday
to Saturday 10am to 10pm and Sunday 2 to 8pm, for €1.50 ($1.80) every 10
minutes and €6.50 ($7.85) an hour.
For information on upcoming events and festivals, visit www.kilkenny.ie or
www.kilkennycityonline.com. When you’re in town, check out the weekly
Kilkenny People (www.kilkennypeople.ie), which also covers local happenings.
Tips Phoning around in Kilkenny

Many phone numbers in Kilkenny have changed in the past year and more
The Kilkenny District Post Office, 73 High St. (& 056/772-1813), is open
Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm, Saturday 9:30am to 1pm.
EXPLORING KILKENNY CITY
Black Abbey Nobody is sure why this Dominican church, founded in 1225,
is named Black Abbey. It may be because the Dominicans wore black capes over
their white habits, or perhaps because the Black Plague claimed the lives of eight
priests in 1348. The Black Abbey’s darkest days came in 1650, when Oliver
Cromwell used it as a courthouse; by the time he left, all that remained were the
walls. The abbey reopened in 1816 for public worship, a new nave was completed
in 1866, and the entire building was fully restored in 1979. Among the elements
remaining from the original abbey are an alabaster sculpture of the Holy Trinity
that was carved about 1400, and a pre-Reformation statue of St. Dominic carved
in Irish oak, which is believed to be the oldest such piece in the world. The huge
Rosary Window, a stained-glass work of nearly 45 sq. m (500 sq. ft.) that repre-
sents the 15 mysteries of the rosary, was created in 1892 by Mayers of Munich.
Abbey St. (off Parliament St.), Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-1279. Free admission; donations wel-
come. Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 7:30am–7pm, Sun 9am–7pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 7:30am–5:30pm. No visits during
worship.
Kilkenny Castle Majestically standing beside the River Nore on the

south side of the city, this landmark medieval castle—built in the 12th century
and remodeled in Victorian times—was the principal seat of the Butler family,
who were the earls, marquesses, and dukes of Ormonde. In 1967 the castle was
given to the Irish government to be restored to period splendor as an enduring
national monument. From its sturdy corner towers to its battlements, Kilkenny
Castle retains the imposing lines of an authentic fortress and sets the tone for the
entire city. The exquisitely restored interior includes a fine collection of Butler
family portraits, some from as far back as the 14th century. The old castle
kitchen operates as a Tea Room in the summer. The 20-hectare (50-acre)
grounds include a riverside walk, extensive gardens and parkland, and a well-
equipped children’s playground. Access to the main body of the castle is by
guided tour only, prefaced by an informative video introduction to the rise,
demise, and restoration of the splendid structure. This is a very busy site, so get
there early to avoid waiting.
The Parade, Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-1450. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors,
€2 ($2.40) children and students, €11 ($13) families. Apr–May daily 10:30am–5pm; June–Sept daily
10am–7pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sat 10:30am–12:45pm and 2–5pm, Sun 10am–7pm.
Rothe House This is a typical middle-class house from the Tudor period.
Originally a merchant’s home, built in 1594, it consists of three stone buildings
divided by three cobbled courtyards. It has an arcaded shop front and a remark-
able timber ceiling. Purchased in 1961 by the Kilkenny Archeological Society, it
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Dublin
REPUBLIC Kilkenny Castle 9
OF IRELAND Kilkenny Design Centre 10
Kilkenny Rothe House 6
City St. Canice Cathedral 1
St. Francis Abbey/Smithwick’s Brewery 3
Watergate Theatre 2
253
was restored and opened to the public in 1966. Inside are a museum of Kilkenny
artifacts and a collection of period costumes. A family history research service
for Kilkenny city and county has its offices here.
Parliament St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-2893. Admission €3 ($3.60) adults, €2 ($2.40) sen-
iors and students, €1 ($1.20) children. Jan–Mar and Nov–Dec Mon–Sat 1–5pm; Apr–June and Sept–Oct
Mon–Sat 10:30am–5pm, Sun 3–5pm; July–Aug Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 3–5pm.
St. Canice Cathedral At the northern end of the city, this is the church
that gave Kilkenny its name. The St. Canice’s Cathedral that stands today is a
relative newcomer, built in the 13th century on the site of the 6th-century
church of St. Canice. The cathedral has benefited from much restoration work
in recent years. It is noteworthy for its rich interior timber and stone carvings,
its colorful glasswork, and the structure itself. Its roof dates from 1863; its mar-
ble floor is composed of the four marbles of Ireland; and its massive round
tower, 30m (100 ft.) high and 14m (46 ft.) in circumference, is believed to be a
relic of the ancient church (although its original conical top has been replaced
by a slightly domed roof ). If you want to climb to the tip of the tower, it will
cost you €1.30 ($1.55) and more calories than you can count. The steps that
lead to the cathedral were constructed in 1614. The library contains 3,000 vol-
umes from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Coach Rd., Irishtown, Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-4971. Free admission; suggested donation
€1.30 ($1.55) adults, €1 ($1.20) students. Easter–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–1pm, daily 2–6pm; Oct–Easter
Mon–Sat 10am–1pm, daily 2–4pm.
St. Francis Abbey Brewery Established in 1710 by John Smithwick, the

brewery occupies a site that originally belonged to the 12th-century Abbey of St.
Francis. A popular local beer called Smithwick’s (pronounced Smit-icks) is pro-
duced here, as are Budweiser and Land Kilkenny Irish beer. A video presentation
and free samples are offered in the summer.
Parliament St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-1014. Free admission. June–Aug Mon–Fri at 3pm.
ORGANIZED TOURS
Kilkenny Panoramic This open-top, double-decker bus tour hits the high-
lights of medieval Kilkenny. It runs all day in a loop; so when you see something
you want to explore, you just hop off. Or you can just stay on to get a feel for
how the city is laid out. Further details are available from the Kilkenny Tourist
Office.
Grayline Irish City Tours, Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 01/676-5377. €9 ($11) adults, €8 ($9.65) seniors,
€4 ($4.80) children, €22 ($27) families. May–Sept daily (hours change seasonally according to demand).
Tynan’s Walking Tours Local historian Pat Tynan leads you through the
streets and lanes of medieval Kilkenny, providing historical facts and anecdotes
along the way. Tours depart from the tourist office, Rose Inn Street.
10 Maple Dr., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-5929. Tickets €4.50 ($5.40) adults, €3.80 ($4.60) sen-
iors and students. Mar–Oct Mon–Sat 9:15 and 10:30am, 12:15, 1:30, 3, and 4:30pm; Sun 11am, 12:15, 3, and
4:30pm; Nov–Feb Tues–Sat 10:30am, 12:15, and 3pm.
SHOPPING
If you’re an enthusiast of Irish crafts, Kilkenny City is perhaps the best shopping
destination in Ireland. To assist visitors in discovering smaller workshops,
the local tourist office provides a free Craft Trail map and information on local
artisans.
COUNTY KILKENNY 255
Kilkenny shopping hours are normally Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm;

many shops stay open until 9pm on Thursday and Friday.
The newest major addition to the shopping scene is Market Cross, a new
shopping center off High/Parliament Street (& 056/776-5534), with its own
multistory parking lot.
The Book Centre This shop offers a fine selection of books about Kilkenny
and the area, as well as books of Irish interest. Current bestsellers, maps, sta-
tionery, cards, and posters are sold. You can grab a quick daytime snack at the
Pennefeather Cafe, upstairs. 10 High St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-2117.
Fallers Sweater Shop As its name implies, this shop specializes in Aran hand-
knit sweaters (of which it carries a large selection) and mohair, cotton, and linen
knits. To warm and accessorize other parts of your body, you’ll also find ties, scarves,
wool socks, and tweed caps. 75 High St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/777-0599.
Kilkenny Crystal Established in 1969, this is the retail shop for Kilkenny’s
hand-cut crystal enterprise. It specializes in footed vases, rose bowls, bells, ring
holders, wineglasses, carafes, and decanters. The factory is on Callan Road
(& 056/772-5132), 16km (10 miles) outside of town, and also welcomes visi-
tors. 19 Rose Inn St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-1090.
Kilkenny Design Centre This classy emporium is the shopper’s reason for
visiting Kilkenny. The 18th-century coach house and stables of Kilkenny Castle,
with its arched gateway and a copper-domed clock tower, have been wonderfully
converted into an assembly of shops and workshops for craftspeople from all over
Ireland. The center and the smaller shops collected nearby provide a showcase for
many of the country’s top handcrafted products—jewelry, glassware, pottery,
clothing, candles, linens, books, leather work, and furniture. An excellent coffee
shop and restaurant is on the upstairs level of the Design Centre. Open year-
round Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and summer Sundays from 11am
to 5pm. Castle Yard, The Parade, Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-2118.
Liam Costigan This alumnus of the Kilkenny Design Centre produces fine
handcrafted jewelry in gold and silver in this tiny studio-cum-shop. You can
watch him work as you browse. Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm. Colliers
Lane, off High St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-2408.
P. T. Murphy The sign above the entrance says it all: WATCHMAKER, JEWELER,
OPTICIAN, AND SILVERSMITH. This is Kilkenny’s master jeweler. The shop is a
very good source for Irish Claddagh and heraldic jewelry. 85 High St., Kilkenny,
County Kilkenny. & 056/772-1127.
ATTRACTIONS FARTHER AFIELD IN COUNTY KILKENNY

Duiske Abbey Duiske Abbey (1204) is a fine example of an early Cister-
cian abbey. It was suppressed in 1536, but its monks continued to occupy the site
for many years. In 1774 the tower of the ruined abbey church collapsed. In 1813
the roof was replaced and religious services returned to the church, but the abbey
didn’t approach its former glory until the 1970s, when a group of local people
mounted a major reconstruction effort. Now, with its fine lancet windows and
a large effigy of a Norman knight, the abbey is the pride of Graiguenamanagh.
The adjacent visitor center has an exhibit of Christian art and artifacts.
Graiguenamanagh, County Kilkenny. & 0503/24238. Free admission; donations welcome. Daily
8am–7:30pm.
Dunmore Cave Known as one of the darkest places in Ireland, this series of
chambers, formed over millions of years, contains some of the finest calcite for-
mations found in any Irish cave. Known to humans for many centuries, the cave
may have been the site of a Viking massacre in A.D. 928. Exhibits at the visitor
center tell the story of the cave. It’s about 11km (7 miles) from Kilkenny City.
Off Castlecomer rd. (N78), Ballyfoyle, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-7726. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults,
€2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. Mid-Mar to mid-June and mid-
Sept to Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm; mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9:30am–6:30pm; winter Fri–Sun and holidays
9:30am–5:30pm.
Jerpoint Abbey About 18km (11 miles) southeast of Kilkenny, this is

an outstanding Cistercian monastery, founded in the latter half of the 12th cen-
tury. Preserved in a peaceful country setting, one of the abbey’s highlights is a
sculptured cloister arcade. There is also a splendid array of artifacts from
medieval times—from unique stone carvings on 16th-century tombs and
Romanesque architecture in the north nave of the abbey church. A tasteful inter-
pretive center with an adjoining picnic garden makes this a perfect midday stop.
Ms. Sheila Walsh is quite knowledgeable and articulate about the abbey, its art,
and its history.
On the N9, 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) south of Thomastown, Thomastown, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-4623.
Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) children, €7 ($8.45) families. Mar–May
and mid-Sept to mid-Nov daily 9:30am–5pm; June to mid-Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; late Nov daily 10am–4pm.
Kells Priory With its encompassing fortification walls and towers, as

well as complex monastic ruins, enfolded into the sloping south bank of the
King’s River in unspoiled countryside, Kells is the largest and one of the most
spectacular monastic ruins complexes in Ireland. It’s a wonderful oxymoron, an
intact ruin, a feast for the eyes and the imagination. In 1193 Baron Geoffrey
FitzRobert founded the priory and established a Norman-style town beside it.
The current ruins date from the 13th to 15th centuries, while the burgess, where
the livestock was kept, dates from the 15th to 16th centuries.
The priory is less than a half-mile from the village of Kells. Be sure to find the
new footbridge behind the priory, which takes you across the river and intersects
a riverside walk leading to an old mill.
Kells, County Kilkenny. Off N76 or N10. From N76 south of Kilkenny, follow signs for R699/Callan and stay on
R699 until you see signs for Kells.
Kilfane Glen and Waterfall The main place of interest in this small garden
is the glen, created in true picturesque style, with an artificial waterfall and a rus-
tic cottage. The paths have been strategically placed to enhance one’s sense of the
place’s grandeur. Views of the cottage and waterfall have been carefully com-
posed, and the sound of water creates a counterpoint to the visual delights of the
garden. An installation by the American artist James Turrell, Air Mass, is open
to visitors, although the time of day when it was intended to be seen—dusk—
unfortunately doesn’t correspond with the garden’s hours in summer.
Thomastown, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-4558. Admission €4 ($4.80) adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors, €2.50
($3) students and children. Apr–June and Sept Sun 2–6pm; July–Aug daily 11am–6pm. Closed Oct–Mar. Other
times by appointment.
SHOPPING
The Bridge Pottery The studio of Mary O’Gorman and Mark Campden is
perhaps the brightest and most cheerful pottery workshop in Ireland. The place
is a dazzling kaleidoscope of Mediterranean colors and warm, earthen tones. Jugs,
COUNTY KILKENNY 257
Fun Fact The City of Marble

The Irish often refer to Kilkenny as Marble City. Fine black marble used to
be quarried on the outskirts of town and up until 1929, some of the
town’s streets were paved in marble.
mugs, bowls, tiles, plates, even drawer handles—there’s something here for every
taste and budget, with prices from €4 to €400 ($4.80–$482). Open year-round
Monday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Chapel St., Bennettsbridge, County Kilkenny.
& 056/772-7077. www.bridgepottery.com.
Jerpoint Glass Studio Last stop on the “Craft Trail” from Kilkenny to
Stoneyford, here you can witness the creation of Jerpoint Glass, which you’ve
probably been admiring in shops all across Ireland. The lines of their goblets,
candlesticks, pitchers, vases, and much more are simple and fluid, often high-
lighted or infused with swirls of color. You can watch the glass being blown and
then gladly blow your own budget next door at the factory shop, which includes
an entire room of discounted seconds. Open Monday to Friday from 9am to
6pm and Saturday from 11am to 5pm. Signposted from the N9 just south of Jerpoint
Abbey, Stoneyford, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-4350.
Nicholas Mosse Pottery In a former flour mill on the banks of the River
Nore, this is the studio of Nicholas Mosse, a potter since age 7. Using
hydropower from the river to fire the kilns, he produces colorful country-style
earthenware from Irish clay, including jugs, mugs, bowls, vases, and plates. All
are hand-slipped and hand-turned, then decorated by hand with cut sponges
and brushes. An on-site museum displays antique Irish earthenware made with
this process. Pottery firsts and seconds are available. The shop expanded greatly
in 1999 to included tasteful housewares. Open year-round Monday to Saturday
from 9am to 6pm, July and August also Sunday from noon to 5pm. The Mill, Ben-
nettsbridge, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-7105. www.nicholasmosse.com.
Stoneware Jackson Here’s yet another fine pottery studio located in Ben-
nettsbridge, fast becoming a one-stop village for some of Ireland’s most beauti-
ful earthenware. All the pieces are hand-thrown and unique, featuring lovely
two-color glazing and Celtic motifs. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to
6pm. Bennettsbridge, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-7175. www.stonewarejackson.com.
BICYCLING For complete 1- or 2-week cycling holidays in the Southeast,
contact Don Smith at Celtic Cycling, Lorum Old Rectory, Bagenalstown,
County Carlow (&/fax 059/977-5282; www.celticcycling.com).
FISHING The River Nore, southeast of Kilkenny, is known for salmon and
trout. For advice, permits, and supplies, visit the Sports Shop, 82 High St.,
Kilkenny (& 056/772-1517).
GOLF The most prestigious course in the county is the Mount Juliet Golf
and Country Club, Thomastown, County Kilkenny (& 056/777-3000),
16km (10 miles) south of Kilkenny City. The 18-hole, par-72 championship
course, designed by Jack Nicklaus, charges greens fees of €140 ($165) on week-
days, and €155 ($185) on weekends. The price drops for Mount Juliet guests,
and reduced early-bird and “sunsetter” rates are also available. Alternatively, try
the 18-hole championship course at the Kilkenny Golf Club, Glendine,

County Kilkenny (& 056/776-5400), an inland par-71 layout 1.6km (1 mile)
from the city. Greens fees are €35 ($42) on weekdays, €40 ($48) on weekends.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Mount Juliet Estate A private 3.2km (2-mile) lane wends its way
beside the pastures of the Ballylinch Stud Farm to this exclusive hotel, an 18th-
century manor house set on a hillside overlooking the River Nore and sur-
rounded by 600 walled hectares (1,500 acres) of formal gardens, lawns,
woodlands, and parkland. Built in the 1760s, the house was named after the
wife of the eighth Viscount Ikerrin, the first earl of Carrick. The McCalmont
family, leaders in the Irish horse-breeding industry, later owned it. Mount Juliet
is most famous for its Jack Nicklaus–designed golf course, and is also the home
of Ireland’s oldest cricket club. Unsurprisingly, Mount Juliet is hugely popular
with the affluent sporting set, who appreciate the combination of luxurious
accommodations and extensive leisure possibilities. Guests can choose between
the manor house, the Hunters Yard, and the Rose Garden lodges. Rooms are
individually and sumptuously decorated with mahogany antiques and designer
fabrics, and public areas are full of period pieces and original art.
The Paddocks, a cluster of 12 self-catering luxury lodges lying between the
10th and 16th fairways, are also available. Each has a fully equipped kitchen, an
elegantly furnished lounge/dining room, and en suite bedrooms. Weekly rentals
start at €2,400 ($2,880) for a two-bedroom lodge.
Thomastown, County Kilkenny. & 800/525-4800 in the U.S. or 056/777-3000. Fax 056/777-3019. www.
mountjuliet.ie. 60 units. €235–€325 ($283–$392) double; €470–€595 ($566–$717) suite; €450–€590
($542–$711) 2-bedroom garden lodge. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants (international, bistro, Alpine);
bar; indoor swimming pool; 18-hole golf course; tennis courts; gym; sauna; Jacuzzi; concierge; beauty and spa
treatments; room service; valet and laundry service; badminton; fox hunting; pheasant shooting; riding sta-
bles; salmon and trout fishing on exclusive 2.4km (11⁄2-mile) stretch of River Nore; squash. In room: A/C, TV,
minibar, hair dryer, garment press.
Butler House Built in 1770 by the 16th earl of Ormonde as an integral
part of Kilkenny Castle, this elegant building with a series of conical rooftops
has a front door facing busy Patrick Street and a backyard overlooking lovely,
secluded 17th-century-style gardens, the Kilkenny Castle stables, and the
Kilkenny Design Centre. Converted into a guesthouse in the late 1980s, it has
a sweeping staircase, marble fireplaces, and guest rooms of various sizes with an
eclectic mix of contemporary and period furnishings.
16 Patrick St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-5707. Fax 056/776-5626. www.butler.ie. 13 units.
€170–€200 ($205–$240) double; €255 ($307) suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant (international); bar; babysitting. In room: TV/VCR, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Hotel Kilkenny Kids In a residential neighborhood on the southwest

edge of the city, this contemporary hotel is one of the most comfortable in the
city. The whole place has been recently refurbished, and even the standard dou-
ble rooms are huge. Guest rooms are decked out in a smart chocolate-and-cream
palette and are close to the excellent leisure center.
College Rd., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/7762000. Fax 056/7765984. www.griffingroup.ie. 103 units.
€150–€225 ($181–$271) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (interna-
tional); bar; indoor swimming pool; 2 tennis courts; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna; children’s playroom/activities;
babysitting; solarium. In room: TV, hair dryer.
COUNTY KILKENNY 259
Kilkenny Ormonde Hotel Kids When this chic new hotel opened in
the heart of Kilkenny town a couple of years ago, it immediately became the city’s
premier guest address. Its dead-center location leaves it without scenic views, but
its exceptional design and decor provide some striking scenery of their own. The
emphasis is on bright open spaces with insightful use of natural materials—
woods, stone, glass, metals, and quality textiles—to create tones and textures.
The halls are wide and full of light from windows and light shafts. Kilkenny is
a particularly hectic town, and the soft, restful color palate of the guest rooms
provides a welcome antidote to the day. More stress relief lies next door at the
state-of-the-art leisure club, connected by an underground walkway to the hotel.
Deluxe rooms are smartly done up in a warm, contemporary decor and are quite
spacious, with a queen-size bed and a single bed as well as every expected com-
fort and amenity, including plush bathrobes. The ascending order of executive
rooms, superior rooms, and suites extends the size of the beds and of the guest
quarters, culminating in the five-room presidential suite. Of all the options, the
superior rooms offer the best value for money.
Ormonde St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-3900. Fax 056/772-3977. www.kilkennyormonde.com.
118 units. €134–€210 ($161–$253) double; €310–€360 ($374–$434) suite. Service charge at the discre-
tion of guests. Rates include full breakfast and VAT. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants (international,
cafe, bistro); 2 bars; indoor pool; kiddie pool; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; children’s playroom; concierge;
room service; massage; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms; currency exchange; tanning bed. In room: TV,
minibar, hair dryer, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Abbey House This attractive period B&B alongside the Little Argile River
was once part of the Jerpoint Abbey’s estate. The front garden with sitting area
is a perfect spot to relax, and the house’s spacious sitting room, complete with
piano and stacks of books, suits both quiet reading and a round of songs. Mrs.
Helen Blanchfield has done a fine job of maintaining the period character of her
Georgian (ca. 1750) home. She serves guests complimentary tea and scones on
arrival. The comfortable, pleasant rooms vary in size; all have firm, orthopedic
beds. The nearby town of Thomastown and the grand abbey across the way are
well worth a good look, and the area is known for its crafts.
Thomastown, County Kilkenny. On the N9, directly across from Jerpoint Abbey. & 056/7724166. Fax
056/7724192. 6 units. €90–€160 ($108–$193) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast.
AE, MC, V. Closed Dec 21–30. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV on request, tea/coffeemaker.
Lacken House Restaurant and Guesthouse Value Here’s a great-value

haven for foodies. A husband and wife duo, Trevor Toner and Jackie Kennedy,
has made this handsome yellow Victorian home into one of the area’s best places
to stay and eat. The real pull here is the award-winning restaurant (see listing
below), and the chance to just flop upstairs to bed after a great meal and,
perhaps, an after-dinner drink in the bar. The guest rooms are small but com-
fortable and brightly furnished—and all have firm, orthopedic beds. In the
morning, breakfasts are copious and delicious. Lacken is on its own grounds
with gardens, in the northeast corner of the city, about 10 minutes’ walking dis-
tance from High Street and within a long block of the rail and bus station.
Dublin Rd., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-1085. Fax 056/776-2435. www.lackenhouse.ie. 9 units.
€138 ($166) double, including full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; limited room
service. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
The Newpark Hotel This lovely hotel about a mile north of the city cen-
ter is part of the Best Western chain. Set amid 20 hectares (50 acres) of gardens
and parkland, it was opened as a small Victorian-style country hotel more than
35 years ago, and it has grown in size and gained in reputation ever since. The
rooms are done up in light woods with colorful Irish textiles, and the recently
refurbished public areas have a stylish, contemporary flair. Watch for off-season
special rates, available through the website.
Castlecomer Rd., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 800/528-1234 in the U.S. or 056/7722122. Fax 056/7761111.
www.bestwestern.com or www.newparkhotel.com. 111 units. €160–€200 ($193–$240) double. DC, MC, V.
Amenities: Indoor swimming pool; 2 tennis courts; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; solarium. In room: TV,
hair dryer.
INEXPENSIVE
Cullintra House A slightly bohemian atmosphere is tangible at this quaint
country farmhouse, presided over by Patricia Cantlon, an accomplished artist
and cook, and her several cats. The 92-hectare (230-acre) farm is a sanctuary for
birds and all sorts of animals. As you would expect in a 200-year-old, ivy-clad
farmhouse, each rustic guest room is charming and unique. Patricia’s lovely art
studio and conservatory has tea-making facilities and a piano. Morning brings a
relaxed breakfast schedule (served 9:30am–noon) and perhaps a walk to Mount
Brandon or the nearby cairn (prehistoric burial mound); a trail departs from the
back gate. Dinner—costing €30 ($36)—begins around 9pm, announced by the
sound of a gong, and guests sometimes don’t depart from the candlelit dining
room until the wee hours. Mrs. Cantlon is an enthusiastic hostess, and clearly
enjoys entertaining her guests and making them feel at home. This is a good bet
if you like good food, candlelight, and cats.
The Rower, Inistioge, County Kilkenny. On R700, 9.7km (6 miles) from New Ross. & 051/423614. http://
indigo.ie/~cullhse. 6 units, 3 with bathroom. €60–€80 ($75–$96) double. Rates include full breakfast. No
credit cards. Amenities: Conservatory.
Danville House Just on the outer fringe of historic Kilkenny, this old
Georgian (ca. 1735) farmhouse is an affordable, rural haven within easy striking
distance of the city center. You’ll find it tucked down an oak-lined lane, and
there’s a walled garden, paddock, and apple orchard out back. Kitty Stallard is
an engaging, thoroughly unpretentious hostess with a flair for creating old-
world comfort. Her quartet of guest rooms are stylish and bright, appointed
with an assortment of interesting antiques and homey conversation pieces. Con-
sider splurging for the largest room, which has a mahogany half-tester bed and
windows on both sides.
New Ross Rd., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. On R700, 1.6km (1 mile) from Kilkenny. & 056/77772-1512. 5
units. €56–€65 ($67–$78) double. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Nov to mid-Mar. In
room: Hair dryer.
Clomantagh Castle Finds Yet another one-of-a-kind rental property
from the nonprofit Irish Landmark Trust, this huge, rambling farmhouse sleeps
10 and is ideal for a large family or group. The complex of buildings at Clo-
mantagh includes the ruins of a 12th-century church and an early-15th-century
crenellated tower house, which is attached to an 18th-century farmhouse. There
are four large double bedrooms in the farmhouse, with a connecting staircase
leading to a fifth wonderfully medieval double bedroom in the tower itself. The
decor throughout the house is pleasingly old-fashioned and rustic, with many
COUNTY KILKENNY 261
fine period pieces and brass beds. There are several reception rooms, but the
house’s beating heart is the enormous, old-fashioned country kitchen with a
flagstone floor, timbered ceiling, and Stanley range. Like all Irish Landmark
Trust properties, Clomantagh Castle has no TV, but there is a well-equipped
kitchen with a dishwasher and laundry facilities. Although the setting is rural,
Kilkenny City is only about 20 minutes away by car.
Freshford, County Kilkenny. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust & 01/670-4733. Fax 01/670-4887. www.irish
landmark.com. €580 ($699) for 4 nights in low season, sliding up to €1,360 ($1,639) per week in high sea-
son. In room: Kitchen, dishwasher, washing machine.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
Lacken House INTERNATIONAL A stately Victorian house is the set-
ting for this restaurant, on the northeast edge of the city. Chef Barry Foley runs
the show, creating wonderful meals with local produce. The menu changes daily
but starters might include spring-onion-and-red-cheddar soup or a delicious
ballotine of salmon on a bed of cucumber ribbons with homemade chive dress-
ing. For your main course, consider the roast leg of lamb in tangy jus; breast of
chicken with blue cheese and bacon wrapped in phyllo pastry; or the Oriental
pan-fried salmon in tomato vinaigrette. Roast crispy duckling in orange-and-
star-anise sauce is a house specialty.
Dublin Rd., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-1085. Reservations required. Fixed-price 4-course dinner
€39 ($47); 5-course dinner €49 ($59). MC, V. Tues–Sat 7–10:30pm.
Zuni MODERN INTERNATIONAL Kilkenny City has taken off as a

trendy getaway for Dubliners, and Zuni has hitched a ride on that fashionable-
ness. It opened in the heart of medieval Kilkenny at just the right time, and has
emerged as the hot spot in this very hot town. It’s all thanks to Maria Raftery’s
superb, cutting-edge cooking, which seems to just keep getting better. The menu
is jet-setting and fun, featuring zingy dishes such as Moroccan lamb, Caesar
salad with garlicky chicken, tempura king prawns with sesame toast, and roast
cod with puy lentils. Everything hits the right spot, including desserts. Go and
see what the fuss is all about. Upstairs, there are 13 very chic guest rooms avail-
able for €140 to €200 ($165–$240) for a double. Ask about midweek and
weekend good-value specials bundling 2 nights B&B with one dinner.
26 Patrick St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-3999. www.zuni.ie. Reservations required. Dinner
main courses €16–€21 ($19–$25). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 12:30–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 6–9:30pm; Sun 6–9pm.
M O D E R AT E
Café Sol SOUTHERN AMERICAN/MEDITERRANEAN The Café
Sol is just what the name implies: A friendly cafe of bright colors with light
streaming in through its floor-to-ceiling windows, with dishes that evoke the
feeling of warm sunshine. Its diminutive size and unassuming informality are,
however, largely a ruse—chef Liam O’Hanlon runs one of the most appealing
eateries in Ireland. It’s open all day, starting with homemade scones and biscuits
at breakfast time. A few hours later, the lunch menu consists of staple comfort
foods for busy Kilkenny shoppers and business folk—mainly homemade soups,
salads, sandwiches, and hot plates. But the place really comes into its own at din-
nertime, when the menu comes alive with zingier, zestier options, like Louisiana
crab cakes with tomato salsa; chicken and mozzarella wrapped in phyllo; salade
Savoyarde; fresh pasta with sun-dried tomatoes, chile peppers, and olives; and
steamed mussels with wine and garlic.
6 William St. (opposite the Town Hall), Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-4987. Reservations recom-
mended for dinner. Lunch main courses €4–€10 ($4.80–$12); dinner main courses €9–€21 ($11–$25). MC,
V. Mon–Fri 10am–9pm; Sat 10am–5pm.
The Motte MODERN CONTINENTAL In both cuisine and ambience,

The Motte is fresh and exuberant. The intimate dining room simmers with gilt
and candlelight, with each table crowned by a bouquet of Irish field flowers.
Clearly, the chef loves experimenting with the cornucopia of local ingredients
like fresh trout and farmhouse cheeses. Some of the most unlikely combinations
of flavors really work beautifully. Though it looks like a stretch on paper, the
profiteroles filled with Cashel Blue cheese and laced with chile-chocolate sauce
are airy pastry pockets that melt away into a sharp bite of cheese chased by a
smooth thread of slightly bitter chocolate—simply delicious.
Main courses range from sirloin in burgundy butter sauce to a selection of
fish. Filets of plaice arrive with a delicately flavored lemon butter, cooked to
tongue-tantalizing perfection. Sorbet precedes an excellent choice of diet-bust-
ing desserts, like the velvety-rich chocolate cardamom truffle cake, which is
served with custard and a drizzle of raspberry sauce. Final orders are taken at
9:30pm, although diners often remain until late in the evening; just book a table
well in advance and surrender your evening to conversation and good food.
Plas Newydd Lodge, Inistioge, County Kilkenny. & 056/775-8655. Reservations recommended. 3-course set
menu €33 ($40). MC, V. Wed–Sat 7–9:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Kilkenny Design Restaurant CAFETERIA Above the Kilkenny Design
shop, this spacious self-service restaurant is a classy place to eat, with white-
washed walls, circular windows, beamed ceilings, framed art prints, and fresh,
delicious food. The ever-changing menu often includes local salmon, chicken-
and-ham platters, salads, and homemade soups. The pastries and breads offer
some unique choices, such as cheese and garlic scones.
The Parade, Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-2118. Reservations not accepted. All items €3–€11
($3.60–$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Year-round Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; May–Dec Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Sun Jan–Apr.
The Water Garden TEAROOM Just outside Thomastown on the road to

Kilkenny, you’ll find this tearoom and small garden, operated by a local Cam-
phill community for mentally and physically handicapped children and adults.
The cafe serves lunch, tea, and baked goods; meals are prepared with organic
vegetables and meats raised on the community farm. Lunches include sand-
wiches made with home-baked bread, soups, and a vegetable or meat pâté. The
garden (admission €2.50/$3) takes the form of a stroll along a small stream,
with numerous aquatic plants on display; there’s also a garden shop.
Thomastown, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-4690. Garden admission €1.50 ($1.80). Lunch €4–€7
($4.80–$8.45). No credit cards. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sun 12:30–5pm. Closed Sun Christmas–Easter.
KILKENNY AFTER DARK

To find out what’s going on around town, visit www.kilkennycraic.com or pick
up a copy of the local weekly paper Kilkenny People. Kilkenny is home to one of
Ireland’s newest theaters (opened in 1993), the Watergate Theatre, Parliament
Street (& 056/776-1674). The 328-seat showplace presents both local talent
COUNTY KILKENNY 263
and visiting professional troupes performing a variety of classic and contempo-

rary plays, concerts, opera, ballet, one-person shows, and choral evenings. Ticket
prices average €10 to €20 ($12–$24). Most evening shows start at 8 or
8:30pm, matinees at 2 or 3pm.
Across the street is John Cleere’s, 28 Parliament St. (& 056/776-2573), a
small pub theater that presents a variety of local productions, including the Cat
Laughs comedy fest. It is also a venue for the Kilkenny Arts Week, but for most
of the year, it hosts local bands. Tickets average €6 to €10 ($7.50–$12), and
most shows start at 8:15 or 9:30pm.
PUBS
Caislean Ui Cuain (The Castle Inn) A striking facade with a mural of old
Kilkenny welcomes guests to this pub, founded in 1734 as a stagecoach inn. The
interior is a pub-lover’s dream, with dark-wood furnishings, globe-style lights, a
paneled ceiling, and local memorabilia. Traditional music sessions—both sched-
uled and spontaneous—often start up, and many patrons and staff speak Irish.
The Parade, Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-5406.
Eamon Langton’s No self-respecting Irishman—or anyone, for that mat-
ter—would pass through Kilkenny without stopping for a pint in this frequent
“Pub of the Year” winner. In fact, rival publicans joke that Eamon (pronounced
Ay-mun) Langton has won so many awards that he should close shop just to give
someone else a chance. The place has everything you look for in a pub: low ceil-
ings so you don’t feel like you’re conversing in a warehouse, a lovely fireplace
with a carved wooden mantelpiece, the smell of polished wood everywhere,
etched mirrors, stained-glass windows, brass globe lamps, and burgundy leather
banquettes. On summer days, everyone heads to “the back room”—actually a
lush, plant-filled conservatory with Gothic-style windows and a garden area
backed by the old city walls. Langton’s has won plaudits for its pub grub, too, so
bring your appetite. 69 John St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-5133.
Kyteler’s Inn This inn has served up spirits for over 650 years. The ground-
floor restaurant and bar is done up in cozy, contemporary pine. But if you are
in a medieval mood, head downstairs to the cellar, where a deep-set window
overlooks Kieran’s Well, which predates the inn itself, and the original stone pil-
lars still reach from floor to ceiling. This was once the home of Dame Alice
Kyteler, a colorful character who made the tavern into a den of merrymaking.
Between all the joviality, however, she laid four husbands to rest in the Kilkenny
graveyard. She was tried for being a witch and condemned to burn at the stake.
Alice escaped and was never heard from again, but her maid wasn’t so lucky and
was burned. You may feel Alice’s presence in the cellar, thanks to a life-size doll
of her overseeing the proceedings. St. Kieran St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-
1064.
Marble City Bar One of the best shop-front facades in Ireland belongs to this
pub in the middle of the city. Its exterior is a showcase of carved wood, wrought
iron, polished brass, and globe lamps, with flower boxes overhead—and the
interior is equally inviting. Even if you don’t stop for a drink here, you’ll cer-
tainly want to take a picture. 66 High St., Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/776-2091.
Tynan’s Bridge House Finds Ask anyone who knows Kilkenny to tell you
about his or her all-time favorite pub, and you’re guaranteed to hear a lot of votes
for this one. It stands along the River Nore next to St. John’s Bridge. Before a
man named Tynan turned it into a pub in 1919, this 225-year-old building was
used to house a pharmacy and a grocery shop. Behind the horseshoe-shaped
marble-top bar, side drawers marked CLOVES, ALMONDS, MACE, CITRON, and
SAGO are vestiges from these earlier incarnations, as is the 200-year-old scale with
its little set of cup weights. The place is lit by nostalgic globe gas lamps, and
adorned everywhere with shiny brass fixtures, silver tankards, shelves holding
shaving mugs, old teapots, and even a tattered copy of Chaucer’s Canterbury
Tales for rainy days. An intricate old clock chimes the hour. 2 Horseleap Slip, St.
John’s Bridge, Kilkenny, County Kilkenny. & 056/772-1291.
7
Cork: The Rebel City
T his year, Cork City is the place to
be. As European Capital of Culture
hamlet possesses a wonderful little
place to dine; and East Cork boasts
for 2005, the Rebel City offers a jam- the internationally acclaimed Bally-
packed calendar of contemporary art maloe House cooking school.)
installations, cutting-edge theater, In the Rebel City, check out the
every kind of music and dance imagi- covered Old English Market and
nable, a vibrant children’s program, sample the fare, but leave room for a
craft exhibitions and fairs, and partying superb meal in one of the city’s many
the way only Corkonians can—there top-flight restaurants. Though you
truly is something for everyone. And can find Guinness drinkers every-
Cork has never looked better, thanks to where in Ireland, many would argue
spruced up shop fronts, abundant that a true Corkonian will only drink
flower boxes, and brand-new facilities Murphy’s or Beamish, the two locally
to welcome the tens of thousands of brewed stouts. (Walk into any pub
estimated visitors who will come to and order a “home and away” and
take part in the festivities. Naturally, you’ll be presented with a pint of Mur-
with all the excitement comes the phy’s and one of Guinness.)
advice to book your hotel or B&B early The city was founded by St. Finbarr
to avoid getting shut out of all the fun. in the 6th century on a swampy estu-
Cork City (pop. 183,000, includ- ary of the River Lee. He called it Cor-
ing environs) may be far smaller than caigh, which means “marsh” in Irish.
Dublin, but to a Corkman there isn’t The Lee is near and dear to every
even the remotest possibility for com- Corkonian’s heart. If you’re in a pub at
parison; Cork is simply superior. Any closing time, you might hear some-
native will tell you that his beloved one’s rendition of the Cork anthem,
Cork provides all the conveniences of “The Banks of My Own Lovely Lee,”
a city but retains its small-town, also known as “Da Banks.” (For the
leisurely pace of life. And don’t let the full lyrics, search Celtic Lyrics at
size mislead you. There’s a thriving http://celtic-lyrics.com.)
arts culture in Cork, where you’ll find The city is often called “Rebel
the Crawford Art Gallery, the most Cork” because it was a center of the
important gallery outside the capital, 19th-century Fenian movement and
and the refurbished Cork Opera played an active part in the Irish strug-
House, packing sell-out seasons. gle for independence. But today, Cork
But Cork’s real draw is its fabulous is a busy commercial hub for the south
dining scene. It is a foodie’s paradise, of Ireland. Be warned that the traffic
with more good restaurants per capita moves fast, and the locals talk even
than anywhere else in Ireland. (Now faster in their lovely singsong accent.
that we mention it, that’s true for the They are also known for their particu-
entire county of Cork. Nearby Kinsale larly dry sense of humor. Cork slang is
has its own gourmet-food festival; in so rich, and so particular to Cork, that
West Cork, seemingly every little it makes even other Irish feel out of
266 CHAPTER 7 . CORK: THE REBEL CITY
the loop. If you want to keep up with nearby Blarney Castle) gives Corko-
the locals, pick up A Dictionary of nians their gift of the gab, in truth,
Cork Slang, by Sean Beecher, available most Corkonians have never kissed it.
in all Cork bookshops. While it’s said So, yes, it’s touristy. But sometimes
that kissing the Blarney Stone (at you just gotta do those touristy things.
1 Orientation
Cork is 258km (160 miles) SW of Dublin, 206km (128 miles) SE of Galway, 101km (63 miles) S of Limerick,
122km (76 miles) S of Shannon Airport, 126km (78 miles) W of Waterford, and 87km (54 miles) E of Killarney
ARRIVING
GETTING THERE Aer Lingus (& 021/432-7155; www.aerlingus.ie)
flights from Dublin regularly serve Cork Airport, Kinsale Road (& 021/
413131; www.cork-airport.com), 13km (8 miles) south of the city. In addition,
there are direct flights from Amsterdam, Bristol, Exeter, Glasgow, Guernsey, Isle
of Mann, London, Manchester, Paris, Plymouth, and Rennes. Cork Airport is
in the process of dramatically expanding its services, and it may eventually han-
dle transatlantic flights.
There are taxi ranks outside the arrivals hall of the airport. A journey to the
city center should cost from €10 to €13 ($12–$16).
Bus Eireann (& 021/450-8188; www.buseireann.ie) provides bus service
from the airport to Parnell Place Bus Station in the city center; the fare is €3.50
($4.20) one-way, €5.70 ($6.85) round-trip. The trip takes between 18 and 24
minutes, depending on time of day. Buses from all parts of Ireland arrive at Bus
Eireann’s Passenger Depot, Parnell Place, in the downtown area, 3 blocks from
Patrick Street.
Iarnrod Eireann/Irish Rail (toll-free & 1850/366222 or 01/836-6222;
www.irishrail.ie) operates the train services in Ireland. Trains from Dublin, Lim-
erick, and other parts of Ireland arrive at Kent Station, Lower Glanmire Road,
Cork (& 021/450-4777), on the city’s eastern edge.
Car-ferry routes into Cork from Britain include service from Swansea on
Swansea/Cork Ferries (& 021/427-1166; www.swansea-cork.ie), and from
Roscoff on Brittany Ferries (& 021/427-7801; www.brittany-ferries.com). All
ferries arrive at Cork’s Ringaskiddy Ferryport.
If you’re approaching Cork from the east, take the Carrigaloe-Glenbrook ferry
from Cobh across Cork Harbour. This ferry can save you an hour’s driving time
on the rim of Cork Harbour, and you’ll bypass Cork City traffic. The ferry runs
from 7:15am to 12:30am. Cars cost €3.50 ($4.20) one-way, €5.50 ($6.60)
round-trip, plus €.65 (80¢) for each additional passenger. For cyclists, the fare
is €.75 (90¢) one-way, €1.30 ($1.55) round-trip. The trip lasts less than 5 min-
utes. For more information, contact Cross River Ferries Ltd., Westland House,
Rushbrooke, Cobh (& 021/481-1485).
Many main national roads lead into Cork, including N8 from Dublin, N25 from
Waterford, N20 from Limerick, N22 from Killarney, and N71 from West Cork.
VISITOR INFORMATION
For brochures, maps, and other information, visit the Cork Tourist Office,
Tourist House, 42 Grand Parade, Cork (& 021/427-3251; www.corkkerry.ie). Its
hours are Monday to Saturday 9:15am to 5:30pm all year. For online information,
consult the Cork Guide (www.cork-guide.ie). For accommodations in Cork, con-
sult our recommendations (below), then try www.book-a-hotel-in-cork.com.
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Cork City
Tips European Culture Capital 2005: Be There!

For everything you need to know about the multitude of events taking
place during Cork’s reign as European Capital of Culture, visit Cork 2005
online at www.cork2005.ie.
CITY LAYOUT
There are an amazing number of bridges in Cork, which can be quite confus-
ing. Before you start thinking you’re going around in circles, realize that central
Cork is actually on an island, which lies between two limbs of the River Lee. The
city is divided into three sections:
SOUTH BANK South of the River Lee, South Bank encompasses the
grounds of St. Finbarr’s Cathedral, the site of St. Finbarr’s 6th-century
monastery, and also includes 17th-century city walls, the remains of Elizabeth
Fort, City Hall, built in 1936, and Cork’s chief administrative center.
FLAT OF THE CITY This is the downtown core, surrounded on the north
and south by channels of the River Lee. This area includes the South Mall, a
wide tree-lined street with mostly Georgian architecture and a row of banks,
insurance companies, and legal offices; the Grand Parade, a spacious thor-
oughfare that blends 18th-century bow-fronted houses and the remains of the
old city walls with modern offices and shops; and a welcome patch of greenery,
the Bishop Lucey Park, a fairly new (1986) addition to the cityscape.
Extending from the northern tip of the Grand Parade is the city’s main thor-
oughfare, St. Patrick Street. Referred to simply as Patrick Street by Corkonians,
this broad avenue was formed in 1789 by filling in an open channel in the river.
It is primarily a street for shopping, but it is also a place for folks to stroll, be
seen, and greet friends. (In Cork slang, hanging out on Patrick St. is “doing a
Pana”). Patrick Street is also the site of one of the city’s best-known meeting
places: the statue of 19th-century priest Fr. Theobald Matthew, a crusader
against drink who is fondly called the “apostle of temperance.” The statue stands
at the point where Patrick Street reaches St. Patrick’s Bridge and is the city’s cen-
tral point of reference.
NORTH BANK St. Patrick’s Bridge (or Patrick’s Bridge), opened in 1859,
leads over the river to the north side of the city, a hilly, terraced section where
Patrick Street becomes St. Patrick’s Hill. And is it ever a hill, with an incline so
steep that it is nearly San Franciscan. If you climb the stepped sidewalks of St.
Patrick’s Hill, you will be rewarded with a sweeping view of the Cork skyline.
East of St. Patrick’s Hill is MacCurtain Street, a commercial thoroughfare
that runs east, leading to Summerhill Road and up into the Cork hills to the res-
idential districts of St. Luke’s and Montenotte. West of St. Patrick’s Hill is one
of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, St. Ann’s Shandon Church, and the city’s
original Butter Market building.
2 Getting Around
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Bus Eireann operates bus service from
Parnell Place Bus Station (& 021/450-8188; www.buseireann.ie) to all parts of
the city and its suburbs, including Blarney and Kinsale. The flat fare is €1.10
FA S T FA C T S : C O R K C I T Y 269
($1.30). Buses run frequently from 7am to 11pm Monday to Saturday, with
slightly shorter hours on Sunday.
BY TAXI Taxis are readily available throughout Cork. The main taxi ranks are
along St. Patrick’s Street, along the South Mall, and outside major hotels. To call
for a taxi, try ABC Cabs (& 021/496-1961), Cork Taxi Co-Op (& 021/
427-2222), or Shandon Cabs (& 021/450-2255).
BY CAR It’s best to park and explore the city on foot or by public transport.
Unless your hotel has a parking lot, it can be a hassle finding street parking. If
you have to park in public areas, it costs €1.80 ($2.15) per hour, whether you
park in one of the city’s two multistory parking lots, at Lavitt’s Quay and
Merchant’s Quay, or on the street, where the disc system is in use. Parking discs,
sold singly or in books of five for €9 ($11), are available at many shops and
newsstands. There are also at least a dozen ground-level parking lots throughout
the city.
Many international car-rental firms maintain rental desks at Cork Airport,
including Alamo (& 021/431-8636), Budget (& 021/431-4000), Hertz
(& 021/496-5849), and Murray’s Europcar (& 021/491-7300). Avis also has
a large depot in Cork City at Emmet Place (& 021/428-1111).
ON FOOT Because of the problem finding street parking, the best way to see
Cork is on foot, but don’t try to do it all in a single day. The South Bank and
the central part, or flat, of the city can easily take a day to explore; save the Cork
Hills and the North Bank for another day. You might want to follow the sign-
posted Tourist Trail to guide you to all the major sights.
FAST FACTS: Cork City

Drugstores Try Ryan’s Pharmacy, 96 Patrick St. (& 021/427-2566), or Mur-
phy’s Pharmacy, 48 N. Main St. (& 021/427-4121).
Emergencies For emergencies, dial & 999.
Gay & Lesbian Resources For information and aid, call the Southern Gay
Men’s Health Project, 8 S. Main St. (& 021/427-8470). The Gay Information
line (& 021/427-1087) is open Wednesday 7 to 9pm and Saturday 3 to
5pm. The Lesbian Line (also & 021/427-1087) is open Thursday 8 to 10pm.
Hospitals Try Cork University Hospital, Wilton Road (& 021/454-6400), or
Bon Secours Hospital, College Road (& 021/454-2807).
Information See “Visitor Information,” under “Orientation,” above.
Internet Access Cork City Library, 57 Grand Parade (& 021/427-7110), has
a bank of public Internet workstations available. You can also log on
at Wired to the World, 12A Washington St. (& 021/427-8584; www.
wiredtotheworld.ie).
Library Cork City Library, 57 Grand Parade (& 021/427-7110), is the best-
stocked public library in Cork.
Police The local Garda Headquarters is on Anglesea Street (& 021/
452-2000).
Post Office The General Post Office, on Oliver Plunkett Street (& 021/
485-1012), is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm.
3 Where to Stay
VERY EXPENSIVE
Hayfield Manor Hotel This is Cork’s only true luxury hotel, with sky-
high tariffs to prove it. Spend just one night and you’ll note how its designers
thought of everything. Despite its period appearance and feel, Hayfield Manor
was built in 1996 and expanded in 1999. The entire hotel is done with a warm
palette of apricots and ochers, including the magnificent foyer with marble
columns and grand mahogany staircase. Guest rooms are especially spacious and
evoke an elegant private manor home, with large windows, exquisite furnishings,
and bright marble bathrooms. This place provides the level of comfort and atten-
tion to detail you expect from one of Ireland’s great manor home hotels.
Although less than a mile from the city center and beside Cork’s University Col-
lege, Hayfield Manor is genuinely secluded. Its modest 1.2 hectares (3 acres) of
mature trees, orchard, and formal garden give the feeling of a grand estate, pro-
viding lovely views from virtually every window. The fully equipped conservatory/
leisure center—reserved exclusively for hotel guests—is singularly inviting.
Perrott Ave., College Rd., Cork, County Cork. & 021/431-5600 or 800/525-4800 for U.S. reservations
through Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Fax 021/431-6839. www.hayfieldmanor.ie. 88 units. €365 ($440)
double; €420 ($506) junior suite; €565 ($681) executive suite; €990 ($1,193) master suite. Rates include
service charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar;
indoor swimming pool; health club; Jacuzzi; steam room; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry serv-
ice; drawing room; health and beauty treatments. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, garment press.
EXPENSIVE/MODERATE
Jurys Cork Hotel On the western edge of town, Jurys is well positioned,
next to University College of Cork and along the banks of the River Lee, yet just
a 5-minute walk from the city center. The modern two-story multiwinged struc-
ture was refurbished just a few years ago. The light-filled public areas include a
sky-lit atrium, and there’s a wall-length mural of Cork characters in the lobby.
Guest rooms are furnished in traditional dark woods with designer fabrics and
have views of either the central courtyard gardens or the river and city. Like most
Jurys hotels, this one has the look and feel of a business person’s hotel—nothing
offensive, but no wow factor either.
Western rd. (N22), Cork, County Cork. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 021/427-6622. Fax 021/427-4477.
www.jurys.com. 188 units. €140– €210 ($169–$253) double. Breakfast €15 ($18). AE, DC, MC, V. Free park-
ing. Amenities: Restaurant (international); 2 bars; indoor-outdoor swimming pool; exercise room; sauna;
concierge; room service, laundry and dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; squash court. In room: TV, hair dryer,
garment press, radio.
MODERATE
The Imperial Hotel For more than a century, this vintage four-story
hotel was Cork’s best hotel and is still the sentimental favorite in Cork. Since
opening in 1845, the hotel has played host to a number of renowned figures
including Sir Walter Scott, William Makepeace Thackeray, Charles Dickens,
and the composer Franz Liszt. Michael Collins, who negotiated the Free
State Treaty in 1921, spent his last night in the hotel. With Waterford crystal

chandeliers, marble floors, and brass fittings, the reception area and public
rooms exude an aura of 19th-century grandeur. The guest rooms recently
received an injection of much-needed attention, and are extremely attractive
with a warm, golden backdrop to complement dark woods, antique fixtures, and
half-tester beds. The executive bedrooms have DVD players, dataports, mini-
bars, and fax machines. Of the three hotels in this price range, the Imperial has
the best location, right in the city center of Cork.
South Mall, Cork, County Cork. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 021/427-4040. Fax 021/427-5375.
www.imperialhotelcork.ie. 88 units. €125 ($151) double. Breakfast €12 ($14). AE, MC, V. Discounted park-
ing €6 ($7.50) per day. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, brasserie); 2 bars; concierge; room service;
laundry service. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, iron, garment press, radio, voice mail.
Lotamore House Value Wow. Following a fabulous makeover, one of our

most trusted old stand-bys has gone from endearingly old-fashioned to elegantly
chic. Overlooking the River Lee on 1.6 hectares (4 acres) of wooded grounds
and gardens, 3.2km (2 miles) east of Cork City, this Georgian manor is still one
of the county’s best guesthouses. But where it used to have a certain grand-
motherly charm—sweeping staircase, ornate plasterwork, crystal chandeliers,
and a fireplace dating from 1791—it now has been smartened up with rich col-
ors, half-tester mahogany beds, and up-to-the-minute linens. Breakfast is excep-
tional, with freshly squeezed juices, fresh fruit, and homemade scones, along
with the traditional Irish fry.
Dublin-Waterford rd. (N8/N25), Tivoli, County Cork. & 021/482-2344. Fax 021/482-2219. www.lotamore
house.com. 20 units. €130– €150 ($155–$180) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec
20–Jan 7. Free parking. Amenities: Lounge; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/cof-
feemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
Silver Springs Hotel On a hillside overlooking the River Lee from 3.2km
(2 miles) out of the city, this modern seven-story hotel is a popular choice for
the wedding receptions of Corkonians. Surrounded by 17 hectares (42 acres) of
gardens and grounds, the Silver Springs features an exterior glass elevator that
offers great views of the surrounding countryside. Each room, outfitted with
handcrafted Irish furniture and designer fabrics, has lovely views of the river,
city, or gardens.
Dublin Rd., Tivoli, Cork, County Cork. & 021/450-7533. Fax 021/450-7641. 109 units. €125 ($151) double.
Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants (inter-
national, bistro); 2 bars; indoor swimming pool; tennis courts; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; steam room;
concierge; room service; laundry service; squash court. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
INEXPENSIVE
Garnish House Finds This is the very best B&B on the Western Road
and, since B&Bs are absolutely chockablock along the entire thoroughfare, that’s
saying a helluva lot. Hansi Lucey is a simply wonderful innkeeper, the kind who
makes a fuss for you as if you were a much-cherished friend or relative instead
of a paying customer. Her breakfasts are legendary and her rooms exceedingly
comfortable. Never content to rest on her laurels, a few years ago she added fam-
ily suites and champagne breakfasts.
Western Rd., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-5111. Fax 021/427-3872. www.garnish.ie. 14 units.
€70– €110 ($84–$133) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Lounge; nonsmoking rooms. In
room: TV, hair dryer.
Jurys Cork Inn Kids This comfortable but functional hotel overlooking the
River Lee is an excellent choice for families traveling on a budget. The flat-rate
room price covers up to three adults or two adults and two children—exceptional
value for a city-center location. The brick facade and mansard-style roof blend in
with Cork’s older architecture, yet the interior is bright and modern, with con-
temporary light-wood furnishings.
Anderson’s Quay, Cork, County Cork. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 021/427-6444. Fax 021/427-6144.
www.jurys.com. 133 units. €79– €95 ($95–$114) per room. Breakfast €9.50 ($11). AE, DC, MC, V. Limited
free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV,
Maranatha Country House Finds Olwen Venn is the energetic hostess at

this 19th-century manor house, situated on 11 hectares (27 acres) of fine wood-
land. Each room is astonishing, offering a unique and sumptuous experience.
One room is fit for a princess, with a regal-style canopy of velvet and florals;
another evokes a cool forest; yet another uses over 365m (1,197 ft.) of material
in its draperies. Traditional rules of decorating have been discarded in favor of
thoughtful (and often whimsical) effusiveness. The most luxurious quarters are
in the ground-floor suite, which contains a canopy bed and a large Jacuzzi
within its ample floor plan. The breakfast conservatory houses an abundance of
fresh blossoms, and the breakfast itself is plentiful and delicious.
Tower, Blarney, County Cork. &/fax 021/438-5102. www.maranathacountryhouse.com. 6 units, all with pri-
vate bathroom (5 with shower only, 1 with Jacuzzi). €58– €100 ($70–$120) double. 50% reduction for chil-
dren under 12. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Feb. Free parking. Amenities:
Babysitting; nonsmoking rooms; TV lounge. In room: Hair dryer.
4 Where to Dine
VERY EXPENSIVE
The Ivory Tower MODERN CONTINENTAL American-born Sea-
mus O’Connell has made a name as one of the most innovative chefs in the
British Isles, and once told Bon Appétit magazine that he likes to “challenge the
customer with complexity in flavors and textures.” And so he does. He uses the
freshest ingredients from local markets, and concentrates on adding layers of
ingredients, much like a composer does with music. His style is intense and
iconoclastic, and his menu reads like a roster of unlikely flavors. Who else would
try swordfish on banana ketchup with mango salsa? Hot smoked salmon with
lemon geranium sauce? Kumquats in Rioja wine? Not for the faint of heart, but
this is food you experience with every sense of your being. While you’re visiting,
you might catch O’Connell’s terrific cooking program on Irish TV.
The Exchange Buildings, 35 Princes St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-4665. Fixed 5-course dinner €50
($60). Main courses average €30 ($36). MC, V. Wed–Sat 6:30–11pm.
EXPENSIVE
Café Paradiso VEGETARIAN This is not only the best vegetarian
restaurant in Ireland, but one of the best restaurants of any kind. Devotees
include vegans and carnivores alike, because the fact that meat doesn’t appear on
the menu simply isn’t an issue when the food is this good. Denis Cotter elevates
vegetables to a higher plain, always pushing the envelope. The menu features
organic local produce whenever possible, complemented by the finest Irish
farmhouse cheeses. At lunchtime, there’s light fare such as understated-but-tasty
sandwiches and cleverly combined soups. For dinner, you might begin your
meal with balsamic-roasted beets with organic salad leaves and sugar snaps, pesto
dressing, and Knoackalara sheep’s cheese. Then move on to mange-tout, rocket
and red-onion risotto with Parmesan shavings and balsamic-roasted cherry
tomatoes. Dark-chocolate tart or strawberry baked Alaska make an ideal finish
for a fine meal. The well-selected wine list offers a number of choices by the glass
or half-bottle. Cotter and his partner, Bridget Healy, have spilled their secrets in
their very popular Café Paradiso Cookbook, on sale here and in bookstores for
€25 ($29).
16 Lancaster Quay, Western Rd., Cork, County Cork (across from Jurys hotel). & 021/427-7939. Reserva-
tions recommended. Dinner main courses average €22 ($27). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 12:30–3pm and
6:30–10:30pm. Closed Christmas week.
Jacques INTERNATIONAL Amazingly, after nearly 20 years in busi-

ness, this stylish bistro still generates the buzz of a hot new kid on the block. All
of Cork adores the creations of sisters Eithne and Jacqueline Barry, which seem
to effortlessly stay contemporary and give people what they want. Lately, the
menu is highly influenced by Mediterranean and Asian ingredients, as seen in
main dishes like roast swordfish with couscous and lemon; roast brace of quail
served on Oriental thread noodles; Tuscan chicken with polenta and Parmesan
cheese with roast vegetables; and tagliatelle with wild mushroom in a garlic
cream sauce. There are also perennial classics like beef Bordelaise and their
deservedly famous roast duck with potato and apricot stuffing, which has been
a staple on the menu for 2 decades. The small dining room, whose cheery
lemon, tangerine, and green walls are lined with modern artwork, is the perfect
backdrop for the buzzy, fresh, and dynamic experience of eating here.
9 Phoenix St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-7387. Reservations recommended. Early-bird dinner (6–7pm)
€20 ($24); dinner main courses €20– €26 ($24–$31). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and 6–10:30pm; Sat
6–10:30pm; Sun 4:30–9pm.
MODERATE
Crawford Gallery Cafe COUNTRY HOUSE In a ground-floor room at
the Crawford Art Gallery, this popular bistro, decorated with oil paintings and
statuary, is run by the Allen family of Ballymaloe House fame (see “East Cork”
in chapter 8). The menu includes such traditional dishes as lamb braised with
vegetables and rosemary and served with champ (a traditional dish of buttery
mashed potatoes with chopped green onions, made here with parsley, chives,
and young nettle tops), and more contemporary open-faced sandwiches such as
a wonderful smoked salmon, cheese, and pickle combination. All fish are
brought in fresh daily from Ballycotton Bay, and breads and baked goods are
from Ballymaloe kitchens.
Emmet Place, Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-4415. Reservations recommended for parties of 6 or more.
Main courses €13– €24 ($16–$29). MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat 10am–4:30pm.
Fenn’s Quay Restaurant INTERNATIONAL Eilish and Pat O’Leary’s

superbly restored 18th-century terrace house attracts a well-heeled clientele and
looks set to be a long-distance runner among Cork’s many excellent restaurants.
The secret to the cooking is an utter lack of pretension and a talent for making
the most of potent ingredients. Flavors are paired to complement and contrast,
and the palate is never, ever bored. A spinach-and-cream-cheese strudel might
be served with a sauce of roasted red pepper and black olives. Lamb kabobs
come with Mediterranean couscous, while Spicy Toulouse sausages get paired
with sauerkraut, mashed spuds, and herb jus. The place gets jammed at the
good-value lunchtime, so be prepared to wait for a table or, better yet, go for a
more leisurely dinner.
5 Fenn’s Quay, Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-9527. Reservations recommended. Early-bird dinners
(6–7pm): 2-course €20 ($24), 3-course €25 ($30); dinner main courses €16– €24 ($19–$29). AE, MC, V.
Mon–Sat 10am–10pm.
Isaacs INTERNATIONAL Isaacs is so integral to the fabric of Cork’s

dining scene that we can hardly imagine the city without it. The dining room
itself is quite beautiful and contemporary, with soaring warehouse-style ceilings,
exposed brick walls, and that intangible feel-good factor that comes from eating
in a place where everyone is having a grand old time. Chef Canice Sharkey’s sig-
nature is modern, understated cuisine, with absolutely no showing off. Think
simple, fresh pasta dishes, hearty stews, mouthwatering grilled meats, and inter-
esting salads. Every dish is perfectly prepared, be it a classic Caesar salad, a char-
grilled burger, or the prawn tempura with soy and ginger dip. Daily blackboard
specials add to the variety. The best-value deal is at lunchtime, when you can eas-
ily get out of here for €15 ($18) a head, but there can be a lackluster atmos-
phere. Dinner time is far more buzzy and convivial.
48 MacCurtain St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/450-3805. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
€14– €25 ($18–$30). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–10:30pm; Sun 6:30–9pm.
Jacob’s On the Mall INTERNATIONAL Housed in what was once

the city’s old Turkish bathhouse, this eatery, showcasing Mercy Fenton’s confi-
dent, harmonious cooking, is the talk of the town. She doesn’t so much cook as
compose meals using fresh ingredients and side dishes to heighten the taste of
her main dishes. Her grilled mackerel comes with buttery new potatoes and the
licoricey hint of fennel, her crispy salmon is served with Chinese greens and
noodles, and her breast of chicken comes with a dollop of lemon aioli. The place
is truly lovely, with tall windows flooding the dining room with light.
30A South Mall, Cork, County Cork. & 021/425-1530. Main courses €16– €30 ($19–$36). AE, MC, V.
Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm and 6:30–10pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Idaho Cafe INTERNATIONAL This little place will make you want to
sell your house, quit your job, and move to Cork City. Every hometown should
have a darling, perfect little cafe like this. It’s tiny, with patrons squeezing in
together like sardines, and the pretension quotient is zero. Needless to say, the
food is to die for. Lunchtime specials often feature Ummero bacon with minty
new potatoes and cashews or crabmeat and tuna quesadillas. Everything is
made from fresh ingredients by people who obviously understand that a bit of
care in preparing even an inexpensive meal goes much appreciated. To find this
wee place, turn off Patrick Street, directly behind the Brown Thomas depart-
ment store.
19 Caroline St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-6376. Breakfast and lunch main courses €4– €8
($4.80–$9.65). No credit cards. Mon–Fri 9am–9pm; Sat–Sun 9am–6pm.
Quay Co-op VEGETARIAN/CAFETERIA The ground floor of this

insider establishment is a whole-foods store that also sells delicious breads and
cakes. The main attraction, however, is on the second floor. Reached by a nar-
row, steep, winding staircase, the self-service restaurant far surpasses its rather
inauspicious first impression. An array of delicious hot and cold dishes spread
out before you, including spinach and sun-dried tomato roulade, spanakopita,
and lentil and coconut soup. Homemade breads and cakes are especially good
here. Although some vegan offerings may seem bland if you’re not used to
this diet, don’t let that deter you; they make up a small portion of the menu.
The clientele includes much of Cork’s countercultural community, both young
and old.
24 Sullivan’s Quay, Cork, County Cork. & 021/431-7026. Dinner main courses €7– €9 ($8.45–$11). MC, V.
Mon–Fri 9am–9pm; Sat–Sun 9am–6pm.
AT T R AC T I O N S 275
5 Attractions
IN TOWN
Coal Quay Market Overrated This is Cork’s open-air flea market, a trove of
secondhand clothes, old china, used books, memorabilia, and—well, to be
truthful—plenty of junk. It all happens on a street, now a little ragged, that was
once Cork’s original outdoor market.
Cornmarket St., Cork, County Cork. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.
Cork Butter Museum Started in 1770, Cork’s butter exchange became

the largest exporter of salted butter in the world, exporting around 500,000
casks of butter a year by 1892. Although the exchange closed in 1924, it’s
become a popular museum in this city of good food. Situated opposite the
famous Shandon Bells, the exchange now houses the Shandon Craft Centre and
the Firkin Crane Centre, a hot venue for contemporary dance performances.
John Redmond St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/430-0600. Admission €3 ($3.45) adults, €2.50 ($2.90) sen-
iors and students. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm.
Cork City Gaol About 1.6km (a mile) west of the city center, this restored
prison was infamous in the 19th century, when it housed many of Ireland’s great
patriots. Sound effects and lifelike characters inhabiting the cells re-create the
social history of Cork. The “Radio Museum Experience,” an exhibition drawn
from the RTE Museum Collection, depicts a restored 6CK Radio Studio and an
array of antique radio equipment and memorabilia.
Convent Ave., Sunday’s Well, Cork, County Cork. & 021/430-5022. Admission to gaol or exhibition €6
($7.50) adults, €5 ($6) seniors and students, €3.50 ($4.20) children, €15 ($18) families. Mar–Oct daily
9:30am–5pm; Nov–Feb Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing.
Cork Heritage Park About 3.2 km (2 miles) south of the city center, this
newish park is in a 19th-century courtyard on lovely grounds beside an estuary of
Cork Harbour. The site was originally part of the estate of the Pike family, Quak-
ers who were prominent in banking and shipping in Cork in the 1800s. The
exhibits trace the maritime and shipping routes of Cork as well as the history of the
Pike family, in a series of colorful tableaux. There is also an environmental center,
an archaeology room, a small museum dedicated to the history of Cork firefighting
from 1450 to 1945, and stables that house models of a saddler and blacksmith.
Bessboro Rd., Blackrock, Cork, County Cork. & 021/435-8854. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €3 ($3.60) sen-
iors and students, €2 ($2.40) children, €10 ($12) families. May–Sept daily 1–5pm. Closed Oct–Apr.
Cork Public Museum This museum occupies a magnificent Georgian

building in a park on the western edge of the city. Exhibits include models
depicting early medieval times; artifacts recovered from excavations in the city,
some dating as far back as 4,000 years; and a working model of an early flour
mill with an unusual horizontal water wheel. There’s an archive of photographs
and documents relating to Cork-born Irish patriots Terence McSwiney, Thomas
MacCurtain, and Michael Collins. Antique Cork silver, glass, and lace are on
display. An extension to the museum has recently been completed.
Fitzgerald Park, Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-0679. Admission Sun €1.50 ($1.80), €3 ($3.60) families;
free Mon–Fri. Mon–Fri 11am–1pm and 2:15–5pm; Sun 3–5pm (until 6pm July–Aug). Bus: 8.
Crawford Municipal Art Gallery Works by such well-known Irish

painters as Jack B. Yeats, Nathaniel Grogan, William Orpen, Sir John Lavery, James
Barry, and Daniel Maclise are the focal point of this excellent gallery in Cork’s 18th-
century former customs house. Also on display are sculptures and handcrafted
silver and glass pieces. A fine restaurant and bookstore are on the premises. In 2000
the gallery received a dramatic face-lift, with a major futuristic extension.
Emmet Place, Cork, County Cork. & 021/4273377. www.crawfordartgallery.com. Free admission. Mon–Sat
9am–5pm.
Lavitts Quay Gallery Operated by the Cork Arts Society, this gallery pro-
motes the area’s contemporary visual arts. It’s in an early-18th-century Georgian
house that overlooks the River Lee. The ground floor presents a variety of works
by established artists, and the upper floor showcases up-and-coming talent.
5 Father Matthew St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-7749. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10:30am–6pm.
Old English Market Ireland’s best food market dates from a charter of
James I in 1610. The present building, finished in 1786, was damaged by fire in
1980 and was refurbished by Cork Corporation to an award-winning design by
T. F. MacNamara, the city architect. Foodstuffs peculiar to Cork may be pur-
chased here. Stands brim with meats, fish, vegetables, and fruit, and you’ll also
see such traditional Cork foods as hot buttered eggs, tripe (animal stomach),
crubeens (pigs’ feet), and drisheens (local blood sausage). The market’s name is a
holdover from the days of English rule.
Grand Parade; enter from Patrick St., Grand Parade, Oliver Plunkett St., or Princes St., Cork, County Cork. Free
admission. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm.
St. Anne’s Church Cork’s prime landmark, also known as Shandon

Church, is famous for its giant pepper-pot steeple and its eight melodious bells.
Virtually no matter where you stand in the downtown area, you can see the
stone tower, crowned with a gilt ball and a unique fish weather vane. Seen on
TV as the background to a Murphy’s Stout ad, up until recently it was known
as “the four-faced liar” because each of its four clock faces used to show a dif-
ferent time, except on the hour, when they all managed to synchronize. Some-
what sadly, that charming quirk was fixed a few years ago. Built in 1722, the
steeple has red sandstone (south) and limestone (west) walls, from which the col-
ors of the Cork hurling and football teams are taken. A climb to the belfry
rewards with the chance to play a tune on the famous Shandon Bells, immor-
talized in the poem by Francis Mahony called “The Bells of Shandon.” Conse-
quently, you might hear the bells of Shandon ringing at all times of the day.
Continue on a sometimes-precarious climb up past the bells and you’ll be fur-
ther rewarded with a spectacular view of Cork city and the Lee Valley.
Church St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/450-4906. Admission €3 ($3.60) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors and stu-
dents, €8 ($9.65) families. Mon–Sat 8:30am–6pm.
St. Finbarr’s Cathedral This Church of Ireland cathedral sits on the spot
St. Finbarr chose in A.D. 600 for his church and school. The current building
dates from 1880 and is a fine example of early French Gothic style; its three
giant spires dominate the skyline. The interior is highly ornamented with
unique mosaic work. The bells were inherited from the 1735 church that previ-
ously stood on this site.
Bishop St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/496-8744. Admission €3 ($3.60) adults, €1.50 ($1.80) seniors and
students. Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 2–5:30pm.
University College, Cork (U.C.C.) A component of Ireland’s National Uni-

versity, with about 7,000 students, this center of learning is housed in a pretty
quadrangle of Gothic Revival–style buildings. Lovely gardens and wooded
grounds grace the campus. Tours include the Crawford Observatory, the lovely
S P E C TATO R S P O R T S & O U T D O O R P U R S U I T S 277
Harry Clarke stained-glass windows in the Honan Chapel, and the Stone Corri-
dor, a collection of stones inscribed with the ancient Irish Ogham style of writing.
Western Rd., Cork, County Cork. & 021/490-2371. Tours by arrangement.
BUS TOURS
In July and August, Bus Eireann, Parnell Place Bus Station (& 021/450-8188),
offers narrated tours to Cork’s major landmarks and buildings, including nearby
Blarney. Fares start at €9 ($11).
Cork Panoramic These open-top buses let you hop on and hop off to explore
the sights of Ireland’s second city. They run all day in a loop, so when you see
something you want to explore, just get off and rejoin the tour later. Or you can
stay on the bus and use the tour to get oriented. Tour highlights include the
Cork City Gaol, St. Ann’s Church, and U.C.C. (University College, Cork). Fur-
ther details are available from the Cork Tourist Office.
Grayline Tours, Cork, County Cork. & 021/430-9090. Apr–Oct daily, with hours and number of tours reflect-
ing seasonal demand. Admission €12 ($14) adults, €10 ($12) seniors and students, €4 ($4.80) children.
NEARBY: BLARNEY CASTLE & MORE

Ballincollig Gunpowder Mills This industrial complex beside the River Lee
was a hub for the manufacture of gunpowder from 1794 to 1903, a time of wars
between Britain and France. In its heyday as Cork’s prime industry, it employed
about 500 men as coopers, millwrights, and carpenters. You can tour the
restored buildings, and there are exhibits and an audiovisual presentation that
tell the story of gunpowder production in the Cork area.
About 8km (5 miles) west of Cork City on the main Cork-Killarney rd. (N22), Ballincollig, County Cork.
& 021/487-4430. Admission €3 ($3.60) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors and students, €1.80 ($2.15) children,
€8 ($9.65) families. Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm.
Blarney Castle and Stone While aspects of Blarney Castle are very
touristy, it is still one of the most haunting and striking castles in Ireland. What
remains of this impressive castle is a massive square tower with a parapet rising
25m (83 ft.). The infamous Blarney Stone is wedged far enough underneath the
battlements to make it uncomfortable to reach, but not far enough that count-
less tourists don’t literally bend over backwards, hang upside down in a parapet,
and kiss it. It’s customary to tip the attendant who holds your legs (you might
want to do it before he hangs you over the edge).
After bypassing the stone, take a stroll through the gardens and a nearby dell
beside Blarney Lake. The Badger Cave and adjacent dungeons, penetrating the
rock at the base of the castle, can be explored by all but the claustrophobic with
the aid of a flashlight.
R617, 8km (5 miles) northwest of Cork City, Blarney, County Cork. & 021/438-5252. Admission €7 ($8.45)
adults, €5 ($6) seniors and students, €2 ($2.40) children, €16 ($19) families (2 adults and 2 children 8–14).
May and Sept Mon–Sat 9am–6:30pm, Sun 9:30am–5:30pm; June–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun
9:30am–5:30pm; Oct–Apr Mon–Sat 9am–sundown, Sun 9:30am–5:30pm. Bus: Marked BLARNEY or TOWER from
bus station on Parnell Place, Cork City.
6 Spectator Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

SPECTATOR SPORTS
GAELIC GAMES Hurling and Gaelic football are both played on summer
Sunday afternoons at Cork’s Pairc Ui Chaoimh Stadium, Marina Walk
(& 021/496-3311). Check the local newspapers for details or log on to the
Gaelic Athletics Association’s site at www.gaa.ie.
GREYHOUND RACING Go to the dogs, as they say in Cork, at Cork

Greyhound Track, Western Road, Cork (& 021/454-3013), on Wednesday,
Thursday, and Saturday at 8pm. Admission is €7 ($8.45).
HORSE RACING The nearest racetrack is Mallow Race Track, Killarney
Road, Mallow (& 022/50207), approximately 32km (20 miles) north of Cork.
Races are scheduled in mid-May, early August, and early October.
OUTDOOR PURSUITS
BICYCLING Although walking is probably the ideal way to get around Cork,
you can rent a bike at Cyclescene, 396 Blarney St. (& 021/430-1183). It costs
€15 ($18) per day or €80 ($96) per week. Open Monday to Saturday 8:30am
to 5:45pm.
FISHING The River Lee, which runs through Cork, the nearby Blackwater
River, and the many area lakes present fine opportunities. Salmon licenses, lake
fishing permits, tackle, and equipment can be obtained from T. W. Murray,
87 Patrick St. (& 021/427-1089), and the Tackle Shop, Lavitt’s Quay (& 021/
427-2842).
GOLF Local clubs that welcome visitors are the Cork Golf Club, Little Island
(& 021/435-3451), 8km (5 miles) east of Cork, with greens fees of €80 ($96)
weekdays, €90 ($108) weekends; Douglas Golf Club, Maryboro Hill, Douglas
(& 021/489-5297), 4.8km (3 miles) south of Cork, with greens fees of €50
($60) weekdays, €60 ($75) weekends; and Harbour Point, Little Island
(& 021/435-3094), 6.5km (4 miles) east of Cork, with greens fees of €33
($40) weekdays, €38 ($46) weekends.
WALKING The Old Railway Line is a dismantled train route running from
Cork to the old maritime town of Passage West. It is from here that Captain
Roberts set out and crossed the Atlantic in the first passenger steamship, The
Sirius. Following along the rails, a scenic walk affords the visitor excellent views
of the inner harbor.
7 Shopping
Patrick Street is the main shopping thoroughfare, and many stores are scattered
throughout the city on side streets and in lanes. In general, shops are open Mon-
day to Saturday 9:30am to 6pm, unless indicated otherwise. In the summer
many shops remain open until 9:30pm on Thursday and Friday, and some are
open on Sunday.
The city’s antiques row is Paul’s Lane, an offshoot of Paul Street, between
Patrick Street and the Quays in the Huguenot Quarter. There are three shops
along this lane, each brimming with old Cork memorabilia and furnishings:
Anne McCarthy, 2 Paul’s Lane (& 021/427-3755), Mills Antiques, 3 Paul’s
Lane (& 021/427-3528), and O’Regan’s, 4 Paul’s Lane (& 021/427-2902).
All are open Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm.
The main mall is Merchant’s Quay Shopping Centre, Merchant’s Quay and
Patrick Street. This enclosed complex houses large department stores, such as
Marks and Spencer (& 021/427-5555), as well as small specialty shops, such
as Laura Ashley (& 021/427-4070).
Cork’s best department store is Brown Thomas, 18 St. Patrick St. (& 021/
480-5555). It offers three floors of the upscale items found in its sister shop in
Dublin.
SHOPPING 279
BOOKS & MUSIC

The Living Tradition This small shop on the North Bank specializes in Irish
folk and traditional music—CDs, cassettes, books, videos, sheet music, and
songbooks—as well as instruments such as bodhrans (Irish frame drums) and tin
whistles. Here’s where to buy the real thing, the kind of music you actually hear
in Ireland at a pub session or a Fleadh Ceoil (Irish music festival). In addition,
it stocks a good selection of recordings of musicians from around the world,
along with handcrafted goods. 40 MacCurtain St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/450-2564.
www.ossian.ie.
Mainly Murder Tucked between French Church and Academy streets, this
tiny bookshop is a huge treasure trove of whodunits for amateur sleuths or any-
one looking for a good read. It stocks volumes on murder, mystery, and mayhem
from Ireland, England, and many other English-speaking lands. It’s well worth
a visit to stock up for a rainy day. 2A Paul St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-2413.
Mercier Press and Bookshop Long a part of Cork’s literary tradition, this
shop stocks a variety of books, including those published by Cork-based Mercier
Press, founded in 1944 and now Ireland’s oldest independent publishing house.
It has an extensive Irish-interest section, including volumes on history, literature,
folklore, music, art, humor, drama, politics, current affairs, law, and religion.
5 French Church St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-5040.
Waterstone’s Booksellers With entrances on two streets, this large branch
of the British-owned chain is always busy. It has a good selection of books about
Cork and of Irish interest, as well as sections on art, antiques, biography, reli-
gion, and travel. 69 Patrick St. and 12 Paul St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-6522.
CRAFTS
Crafts of Ireland Just a block off Patrick Street, this well-stocked shop pres-
ents an array of local crafts, including weavings, wrought iron, batik hangings,
candles, glass, graphics, leather work, pottery, toys, Irish wildlife mobiles, and
Irish floral stationery. Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 5:30pm. 11 Winthrop
St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-5864.
Meadows & Byrne This shop, with branches in many of Ireland’s larger
towns, claims the finest Irish home store and unquestionably offers a wide and
attractive array of contemporary furniture, furnishings, and household items. In
this multilevel center, you’ll find some of the best contemporary Irish design and
crafts, including Jerpoint glass, Shanagarry and Jack O’Patsy pottery, and
wrought-iron works by John Forkin. Academy St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-2324.
Shandon Craft Centre Inside the Cork Butter Museum (see “Attractions,”
above), this enclosed emporium showcases the workshops of artisans, who prac-
tice a range of traditional trades and display their wares for sale. The crafts
include porcelain dolls, jewelry, clothing, crystal, pottery, and handmade violins,
cellos, and violas. From June to August, folk, traditional, jazz, and classical musi-
cians offer free concerts from 1 to 2pm. Cork Butter Museum, John Redmond St., Cork,
County Cork. & 021/430-0600.
TWEEDS & WOOLENS

Blarney Woollen Mills About 9.7km (6 miles) northwest of Cork City,
on the same grounds as the famous castle of the same name, this huge store
is housed in an 1824 mill. It’s a one-stop source for Irish products, from cash-
meres to crystal glassware, hats to heraldry, and tweeds to T-shirts, as well as the
distinctive Kelly green Blarney Castle–design wool sweaters, made on the prem-
ises. Best of all, it’s open until 10pm every night in summer. Blarney, County Cork.
& 021/438-5280.
House of Donegal “Tailoring to please” is the theme of this showroom and
workshop. You can buy ready-made or specially tailored raincoats, classic trench
coats, jackets, suits, and sportswear for men and women. The handsome rain-
wear, with Donegal tweed linings, is a special souvenir to bring home from Ire-
land. 6 Paul St. (off the Grand Parade), Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-2447.
Quills For tweeds, woolens, and knits at the best prices, don’t miss this fam-
ily-run enterprise on Cork’s busy main thoroughfare. It’s a branch of a shop that
started small more than 20 years ago at Ballingeary, in the heart of the West
Cork Gaeltacht. It now has similar shops in Killarney, Kenmare, and Sneem. 107
Patrick St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-1717.
8 Cork After Dark

PUBS
An Bodhran There’s Irish traditional music at this friendly pub every night
starting at 9:30pm. The old-world decor includes stone walls, dark woods, and
a huge stained-glass window with Book of Kells–inspired designs depicting Irish
monks playing traditional Irish instruments. 42 Oliver Plunkett St., Cork, County Cork.
& 021/427-4544.
An Spailpin Fanac (The Migrant Worker) Located opposite the Beamish
Brewery, this is another of the city’s choice spots for traditional Irish music Sun-
day to Thursday, starting at 9:30pm. It dates from 1779, making it one of Cork’s
oldest pubs. It is a lovely, soothing place—as all the best pubs are—with low
ceilings, exposed brick walls, flagstone floors, open fireplaces, a simple wooden
bar, and woven rush seats. Oh, and there’s a darling, authentic snug. 28–29 S. Main
The Hibernian This is a real insider’s place, which everyone calls by its nick-
name, “the Hi-B.” Located up a linoleum-covered flight of stairs (the entrance is
beside the Minahan Chemist shop), this is as quintessential an old-style lounge pub
as you’re likely to find. It looks like a living room gone astray, with a mishmash of
slightly threadbare upholstered armchairs and sofas strewn about at odd angles. The
one-room bar is always crammed with a wonderful cross-section of Cork—blue-
collar types, students, artists, writers, eccentrics, and the beautiful, well-heeled set.
108 Oliver Plunkett St. (corner of Winthrop St.), Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-2758.
John Henchy & Sons It’s worth a walk up steep Summerhill Road, a north-
east continuation of busy MacCurtain Street, to reach this classic pub near the
Arbutus Lodge hotel. Established by John Henchy in 1884, it looks much the
same as it did then, with lots of polished brass fittings, leaded-glass windows, sil-
ver tankards, thick red curtains, and a small snug. The original Henchy family
grocery store still operates adjacent to the pub. 40 St. Luke’s, Cork, County Cork.
& 021/450-7833.
The Long Valley Finds This is one of those exceptional, family-run, old-
fashioned bars that you fall in love with as soon as you enter—or, rather, even
before you enter. To the left of the entrance hallway is a snug with etched glass
doors and chased silver doorknobs. Those doors came from the Celtic, a White
Star ocean liner (of Titanic fame) which ran aground in Cork Harbour—just one
example of the craftsmanship of a pub that’s been seducing Cork folk since 1842.
CORK AFTER DARK 281
And this is before you even step into the bar itself. For anyone who knows and
loves Cork, this is a place of pilgrimage. It could be called The Long Bar: one end-
less, low-slung room with the bar running its full length. Along the opposite wall
are small wooden tables, chairs, and benches, with historic photos on the wall
above. The barmen wear white butchers coats, Victorian-style, and provide a con-
stant supply of pints to the laid-back, predominantly 30-something crowd. If
you’re hungry, order one of the excellent sandwiches at the bar, served deli-style
on home-baked bread. Winthrop St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-2144.
Maguire’s Warehouse Bar Just off Patrick Street in the heart of town, this
Edwardian-style pub has a conversation-piece interior, with vintage bicycles,
unicycles, and lots of old brass fixtures. Daunt Sq., Grand Parade, Cork, County Cork.
& 021/427-7825.
Mutton Lane Inn Old Cork is alive and well at this tiny pub down an alley
that was first trod as a pathway for sheep going to market. It was opened in 1787
as a public house by the Ring family, who used to make their own moonshine
whiskey. It’s now the domain of Maeve and Vincent McLoughlin, who have pre-
served the old-world aura, which incorporates lantern lights, dark-wood-paneled
walls, exposed-beam ceilings, and an antique cash register. 3 Mutton Lane, off Patrick
The Vineyard If cocktails are your thing, this is the current cool spot for
late-night lounging with a martini. Market Lane, off Patrick St., Cork, County Cork.
& 021/427-4793.
CLUBS: COMEDY, DANCE & MUSIC
You’re likely to have the last laugh every Friday and Saturday night at The Com-
edy Club, 2 Coburg St. (& 021/450-1206; www.thecomedyclub.ie).
Club FX Starting at 11pm on Friday nights, there’s “Planet of Sound” with
four rooms of “delicious noise.” In other words, you can expect retro, hip-hop,
and two live bands. You’ll find it down the lane opposite Jurys Hotel on Wash-
ington Street. Lynch’s St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-1120. Cover €5 ($6).
Half Moon After the main stage empties, the Cork Opera House Bar, the
Half Moon, swings into action. It schedules an ever-changing program of con-
temporary music, from blues and ragtime to pop and rock, with comedy gigs on
occasion. Open Thursday to Sunday from 11:30pm to 3am. Cork Opera House,
Emmet Place, Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-0022. Cover €8– €10 ($9.65–$12).
The Lobby Bar This bar opposite City Hall presents a variety of musical
entertainment, from folk, traditional, bluegrass, and blues to jazz, gypsy, rock,
classical, and New Age. Most performances start at 9pm. 1 Union Quay, Cork, County
Cork. & 021/431-1113. www.lobby.ie. Cover €6– €15 ($7.50–$18).
The Red Room The DJs in this popular nightclub spin everything from hip-
hop to techno. 17 Liberty St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/425-1855. Free admission before
10:30pm, then €4– €7 ($4.80–$8.45).
THE PERFORMING ARTS

Cork Opera House Just off Lavitt’s Quay along the River Lee, this is south-
west Ireland’s major venue for opera, drama, musicals, comedies, dance, con-
certs, and variety nights. The original century-old opera house was completely
gutted by a fire in 1955; this 1,000-seat replacement opened a decade later.
Emmet Place, Cork, County Cork. & 021/427-0022. www.corkoperahouse.ie. Tickets €17– €45
($20–$54); average €20 ($24).
Firkin Crane Cultural Centre Dating from the 1840s, this unique rotunda
was part of Cork’s original Butter Exchange, and the building’s name derives
from Danish words pertaining to measures of butter. Although destroyed by fire
in 1980, the site was completely rebuilt and opened as a cultural center in 1992.
Today, Firkin Crane is singularly dedicated to the understanding and develop-
ment of contemporary dance throughout Ireland. It serves as both a producing
venue for new dance works and a presenting venue for touring national and
international dance companies. John Redmond St., Shandon, Cork, County Cork. & 021/
450-7487. Tickets €12– €15 ($14–$18).
Triskel Arts Centre This ever-growing arts center just goes from strength to
strength. Its program presents a variety of entertainment, including drama,
poetry readings, musical recitals, opera, and popular Irish and traditional music
concerts. There is also a full curriculum of daytime art workshops and gallery
talks. The restaurant with bar is open for day and evening events, and is a styl-
ish place to have a light meal or a cappuccino. Tobin St., off S. Main St., Cork, County
Cork. & 021/427-2022. Tickets €2– €10 ($2.40–$12).
THEATERS
Cork Arts Theatre Across the river from the Opera House, this busy theater
presents a wide variety of contemporary dramas, comedies, and musical comedies,
almost always to full houses. A multistory parking garage and the city-center
main street are a 10-minute walk away. Shows are Tuesday through Sunday at
8pm. Knapp’s Sq., Cork, County Cork. & 021/450-8398. Tickets €11 ($13) adults, €7 ($8.45)
seniors and students.
Everyman Palace This lovely, refurbished historic theater 2 minutes from the
bus and train station is well known as a showcase for new plays, both Irish and
international. The Irish National Ballet also performs here regularly. 17 MacCurtain
St., Cork, County Cork. & 021/450-1673. Tickets €7– €11 ($8.45–$13).
8
Out from Cork
O nce the haunt of outlaws, Cork
long had a reputation as an inaccessi-
forests, old walled villages, deserted
mining towns, colorful spinnakers of
ble and unruly corner of the country. racing yachts, and plenty of seafaring
Cork is often called “The Rebel folklore about shipwrecks. After all, it
County” for the independent spirit of was in the harbor town of Cobh (pro-
those that reside here, both past and nounced Cove), once known as
present. Queenstown in honor of a visit by
It is the largest of the 32 Irish coun- Queen Victoria, that the Titanic made
ties, and one of the most diverse. The her last port of call.
landscape has hardly been tamed, Little bays and harbors are indented
either, and West Cork holds some of all along the county’s 1,095km-long
Ireland’s most beautifully remote and (680-mile) coastline (one-fifth of the
wild coastal regions, with long sandy national coastline), making Cork an
beaches (called “strands” in Ireland), ideal location for sailing. The oldest
high rugged cliffs, and a scattering of yacht club in the world is based at
offshore islands. The rivers Blackwa- Crosshaven and dates from 1720, and
ter, Lee, and Bandon flow west to east Ireland’s only cable-car service links
along the fertile valleys between these Dursey Island with the mainland at
limestone ridges, each turning sharply Beara Peninsula.
southwards to empty into the sea. There’s no better place to start a
There are rocky, heather-clad moun- tour of County Cork than in Kinsale,
tains, subtropical gardens (thanks to a small harbor town directly south of
the congenial Gulf Stream), and still, Cork City.
dark corrie lakes. You can find dark
1 Kinsale ¡
Kinsale is 29km (18 miles) S of Cork, 87km (54 miles) SE of Killarney, 156km (97 miles) SE of Shannon Air-
port, 285km (177 miles) SW of Dublin, and 32km (20 miles) E of Clonakilty
Only 29km (18 miles) south of Cork City, Kinsale is a small fishing village with
a sheltered semicircular harbor rimmed by hilly terrain. It is one of the most dar-
ling harbor towns in Europe. Considered the gateway to the western Cork sea-
coast, this compact town of 2,000 residents has also made a big name for itself
as the “gourmet capital of Ireland.” Home to more than a dozen award-winning
restaurants and pubs, Kinsale draws food lovers year-round, particularly in
October during the 4-day Gourmet Festival, when the atmosphere in town is
especially convivial.
Kinsale fits the picture-postcard image of what a charming Irish seaport
should look like—narrow, winding streets; well-kept 18th-century houses;
imaginatively painted shop fronts; window boxes and street stanchions brim-
ming with colorful flowers; and a harbor full of sailboats. The downside of all
284 CHAPTER 8 . OUT FROM CORK
this is that the secret is out: Kinsale is a tourist mecca, so add parking problems
and tour buses to the list of the city’s sights.
In 1601 the town was the scene of the Battle of Kinsale, a turning point in
Irish history. The defeat of the Irish helped to establish English domination.
After the battle, a new governor representing the British crown was appointed.
His name was William Penn. Ring any bells? For a time, Penn’s son William
served in Kinsale as clerk of the admiralty court, but Penn, Jr. did not stay long;
he was soon off to the New World to found the state of Pennsylvania.
Just off the coast of the Old Head of Kinsale—about 8km (5 miles) west of
the town—a German submarine sank the Lusitania in 1915. More than 1,500
people were killed, and many are buried in a local cemetery.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Bus Eireann (& 021/450-8188; www.buseireann.ie)
operates regular daily service from Cork City to Kinsale. The arrival and depar-
ture point is the Esso gas station on Pier Road, opposite the tourist office.
Kinsale is 29km (18 miles) south of Cork City on the Airport Road; if you’re
coming by car from the west, use N71. From East Cork, Cross River Ferries Ltd.
provides regular service across Cork Harbour (see “East Cork,” later in this
chapter).
VISITOR INFORMATION The Kinsale Tourist Office, Pier Road, Kinsale
(& 021/477-2234; www.kinsale.ie), is open March through November.
GETTING AROUND Kinsale’s streets are so narrow that walking is the best
way to get around. There is no local transport; if you need a taxi to outlying areas,
call Kinsale Cabs (& 021/477-2642), O’Dea & Sons (& 021/477-4900), or
Allied Cabs (& 021/477-3600).
EXPLORING THE TOWN
Charles Fort Southeast of Kinsale, at the head of the harbor, this coastal
landmark dates from the late 17th century. A classic star-shaped fort, it was con-
structed to prevent foreign naval forces from entering the harbor of Kinsale,
then an important trading town. Additions and improvements were made
throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, and the fort remained garrisoned until
1921. Across the river is James Fort (1602). The complex includes an exhibition
center and cafe.
Off the Scilly Rd., Summer Cove, County Cork. & 021/477-2263. Admission €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €2.50
($3) seniors and students, €1.25 ($1.50) children, €8.25 ($9.95) families. Tours available on request. Mid-
Apr to mid-Oct daily 10am–6pm; mid-Oct to mid-Mar weekends 10am–5pm; last admission 45 min. before
closing.
Desmond Castle The castle is now the home of the International

Museum of Wine, celebrating the “wine geese”—the Irish emigrants who colo-
nized the wine trade throughout the world after being forced to leave their own
shores. Built around 1500 as a customhouse by the earl of Desmond, this tower
house has a colorful history. The Spanish occupied it in 1601, and the British
used it as a prison for captured American sailors during the War of Indepen-
dence. Locally, it’s known as “French Prison” because 54 French prisoners died
here in a 1747 fire. During the Great Famine the castle became a workhouse for
the starving populace.
Cork St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-4855. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors and
students, €1.25 ($1.50) children, €7 ($8.45) families. Mid-Apr to mid-June Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; mid-June
to Oct daily 10am–6pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing. Closed Nov to mid-Apr.
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Kinsale Regional Museum This museum tells the town’s story from its
earliest days, with exhibits, photos, and memorabilia highlighting such events as
the Battle of Kinsale in 1601 and the sinking of the Lusitania in 1915, and fea-
turing extensive traditional craft exhibits. It’s in the Market House (1600),
which gained an arched facade in 1706. An extensive renovation and extension,
doubling its exhibition space, was completed in July 2000.
Market Sq., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2044. Admission €2.50 ($3) adults, €1.50 ($1.80) seniors and
students, free for children. Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Fri 11am–1pm and 3–5pm. Closed Jan.
SHOPPING
Boland’s Irish Craft Shop This is a good spot to buy exclusively Irish-made
crafts—such as traditional Kinsale smocks, Aran sweaters, pottery, Ogham plaques,
woolly and ceramic sheep, quilts, Irish leather belts, and miniature paintings by
Irish artists. Pearse St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2161. www.bolandkinsale.com.
Granny’s Bottom Drawer Traditional Irish linens and lace are the ticket
here. It’s well stocked with tablecloths, pillowcases, Victorian table runners, and
hand-crocheted place mats. 53 Main St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-4839.
Jagoes Mill Pottery Just over 3.2km (2 miles) from Kinsale, Irene Gahan
Ryle runs a small pottery workshop in an old mill dating from the 17th century.
She makes individual pieces that appeal to lovers of studio pottery because of the
work’s distinctive, practical, and beautiful forms. Included in many private col-
lections around the world, the work is only sold from the studio workshop and
selected galleries. Jagoes Mill, Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2771.
Kinsale Crystal Started in 1991 by a former Waterford Crystal master
craftsman, this small workshop produces traditional full-lead, mouth-blown,
and hand-cut crystal, with personalized engraving. Visitors are welcome to
watch the entire fascinating process and admire the sparkling results, which are
only sold in this shop; you’ll find it nowhere else in Ireland. Market St., Kinsale,
County Cork. & 021/477-4493. www.kinsalecrystal.ie.
Kinsale Silver Kinsale silver traces its origins back more than 300 years. The
Dolan family runs this silversmith workshop (see the section on Wexford shop-
ping in chapter 6, “The Southeast”). You can watch as each piece is wrought and
forged by hand, using tools of yesteryear. Pearse St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/
477-4359. www.iol.ie/~dolan.
Yello Gallery The London Times named this spacious shop one of the two
standout galleries in Kinsale’s flourishing fine-arts scene. Oliver Sears, the pro-
prietor, first came to Ireland from London as a chef. Since switching careers, he
has assembled the largest selection of original Irish prints in the country. If you
can’t find something you love here, you might as well stop looking. The shop is
closed from mid-January to mid-February. 20–21 Main St., Kinsale, County Cork.
& 021/477-2565 or 087/261-9154; www.yellogallery.net.
BICYCLING Biking along Kinsale Harbour is an exhilarating experience. To
rent a bike, contact The Hire Shop, 18 Main St. (& 021/477-4884). Rentals
average €10 ($12) a day, €59 ($71) per week, depending on equipment. The
shop is open weekdays from 8:30am to 6pm. In summertime it’s also open Sat-
urday from 9am to 6pm and Sunday from 10:30am to 5:30pm.
FISHING Kinsale is one of the southern Irish coast’s sea-angling centers.
There are numerous shipwrecks in the area for wreck fishing, including the
KINSALE 287
Lusitania, near the Old Head of Kinsale. As many as 22 species of fish have been
caught off Kinsale in a single day. Sporting Tours Ireland, 71 Main St. (&/fax
021/477-4727), arranges sea fishing from Kinsale Harbor or game fishing for
salmon and trout in nearby rivers. The fee for sea fishing averages €150 ($181)
per day with a six-person maximum. It’s open year-round Monday to Friday
9am to 5:30pm.
For fishing tackle or to rent a rod and other equipment, try The Hire Shop
(see above). They offer a bicycle/fishing-tackle rental package of €10 ($12) for
the day.
GOLF Embraced by the sea on three sides, the nothing-short-of-spectacular
Old Head Golf Links (& 021/477-8444; www.oldheadgolflinks.com) is Tiger
Woods’s favorite Irish course. Named one of Golf Magazine’s “Top 100 Courses
in the World,” it is hauntingly beautiful, rain or shine. Old Head has long been
home to many species of wildlife, including rare migratory birds. The course
retains a resident environmentalist to ensure that crucial habitats are not dis-
turbed. But golfing here costs big money: Greens fees are currently a whopping
€250 ($301) for one 18-hole round. Caddy fees run €30 ($36) for a junior
caddy, €40 ($48) for a senior caddy.
There is a fine par-72 championship course at the Fota Island Golf Club,
Carrigtwohill (& 021/488-3700), with greens fees of €70 ($84) on Monday,
€83 ($100) Tuesday to Thursday, and €98 ($118) on Friday and weekends.
Less expensive is the Kinsale Golf Club, Kinsale (& 021/477-4722), which has
an 18-hole, par-71 course at Farrangalway, 4.8km (3 miles) north of town.
Greens fees are €35 ($42) on weekdays, €50 ($60) on weekends.
SAILING Yacht charters are available from Sail Ireland Charters, Trident
Hotel, County Cork (& 021/477-2927; www.sailireland.com). From Kinsale it
is possible to sail to Bantry Bay and back on a 1-week charter, or to the Dingle
Peninsula on a 2-week charter. Prices for a six-berth, 11m (35-ft.) yacht run
€2,325 to €3,275 ($2,801–$3,946) per week, not including outboard or skip-
per. A 10-berth, 15m (51-ft.) yacht runs €2,115 to €2,975 ($2,548–$3,585)
per week.
TENNIS Court time can be had at the Oysterhaven Activity Centre
(& 021/477-0738), 8km (5 miles) from Kinsale, for €10 ($12) per hour.
Racket rental is an additional €2 ($2.40). It’s open Monday to Thursday 10am
to 9pm, Friday and Saturday 10am to 6pm, and Sunday 1 to 6pm.
WALKING The Scilly Walk is a signposted pedestrian path along the sea that
runs from Scilly, the community across the harbor from Kinsale, all the way to
Charles Fort. If you continue to walk south along the sea from Charles Fort,
you’ll find another path that follows the headland to the tip of Frower Point,
which offers great views across the harbor to the Old Head of Kinsale. The com-
plete walk from Kinsale to Frower Point is 8km (5 miles) each way, and every
part of it is quite rewarding.
WATERSPORTS At Sporting Tours Ireland, 71 Main St. (&/fax 021/
477-4727; www.sportingtoursireland.ie), prices for scuba start at €40 ($48) per
dive, minimum three persons. Canoeing, windsurfing, and dinghy sailing cost
at least €15 ($18) per hour. Pleasure yacht hire prices are at a minimum of
€200 ($240) per half-day. Hours are daily 9am to 5:30pm. The Oysterhaven
Activity Centre (& 021/477-0738), 8km (5 miles) from Kinsale, rents Wind-
surfers, dinghies, and kayaks. It’s open Monday to Thursday 10am to 9pm, Fri-
day and Saturday 10am to 6pm, and Sunday 1 to 6pm.
WHERE TO STAY
EXPENSIVE
The Old Bank House This is a vital address in Kinsale: A splendidly
restored, waterside Georgian town-house-turned-B&B that is a soothing oasis in
this bustling, vibrant town. The place breathes unobtrusive luxury, from the
period furnishings to the plush Egyptian cotton towels and bathrobes. A tip
when booking: Rooms at the front of the house overlook the sailboat-dotted
harbor, and the views get significantly better the higher you go. The largest (and
priciest) room is the Postmaster’s Suite, with a lovely sitting room and a fire-
place. The owner, Michael Riese, is a terrific chef and breakfasts are exceptional.
11 Pearse St. (next to Post Office), Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-4075. Fax 021/477-4296. www.old
bankhousekinsale.com. 17 units. €195–€260 ($234–$313) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V.
Amenities: Concierge. In room: TV.
The Blue Haven In the heart of town on the old Fish Market, The Blue
Haven is everything a small, old-world inn should be: inviting, convivial, and
possessing both an excellent restaurant (see “Where to Dine” below) and a fine
pub. All the rooms are individually furnished in bright, contemporary style,
with local crafts and artwork, and views of either the town or the back gardens.
Request one of the rooms in the new wing, which are named for the so-called
“wine geese”—Irish exiles who established wineries in France with names like
Château McCarthy and Château Dillon. These newer rooms have traditional
decor, with canopy beds, window seats, armoires, and brass fixtures.
3 Pearse St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2209. Fax 021/477-4268. www.bluehavenkinsale.com. 17
units. €140–€220 ($169–$265) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant
(seafood); cafe; bar. In room: TV.
M O D E R AT E
Blindgate House Value Last year we added this fabulous new entry: the
immensely stylish, inarguably luxurious, and decidedly low-stress Blindgate
House. Owner Maeve Coakley and designer Beatrice Blake have combined con-
temporary dark-wood furnishings, natural fabrics, wood flooring, and serene
lighting to achieve an effect that feels wonderfully indulgent and calming. Guest
rooms are spacious and elegantly simple, while providing modern conveniences
such as satellite TV and modem connections. All in all, you don’t normally
expect to find this level of designer savvy at this price level. It’s a Zen haven amid
the bustle of Kinsale town.
Blindgate, Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-7858. Fax 021/477-78868. www.blindgatehouse.com. 11 units.
€115–€145 ($140–$175) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Mar. Free
parking. Amenities: Residents’ lounge; babysitting; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, dataport, tea/cof-
feemaker, hair dryer, radio.
The Harbour Lodge Beautifully situated overlooking the harbor and

marina, Raul de Gendre’s wonderfully appointed guesthouse has a bright, con-
temporary decor with lots of wide-windowed views of the water. All the rooms
are nonsmoking and are individually furnished with brass beds, pastel-colored
quilts, and modern art. The best five rooms have balconies facing the harbor—
you could nearly swan dive right into the water—while the rest overlook the gar-
den. Guests enjoy use of a cozy, traditional parlor and a large sunlit conservatory
with panoramic maritime views. Scilly, this part of Kinsale, is a 10-minute walk
along the harbor from the bustling town center. Consequently, it’s a much qui-
eter alternative than The Blue Haven, but also further from the action.
KINSALE 289
Scilly, Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2376. Fax 021/477-2675. 9 units. €130–€198 ($157–$239) dou-
ble. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Conservatory; sitting room. In room:
TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
O’Connor’s Des O’Connor’s popular B&B offers a fabulous standard of com-

fort and attention to detail for the price. Perched in Scilly above Kinsale Har-
bor, with uncompromised views of the town and seascape below, this spacious
Georgian brick house offers a quartet of lovely guest rooms. Each is decorated
in a peaceful shade of fern green or rose, each has terrific views of the harbor,
and each is priced exactly the same. The best rooms are the two suites, which
have semicircular sunrooms (where breakfast is served) and spa bathtubs. The
other two rooms are large doubles with huge picture windows and smaller bath-
rooms with shower stalls. The several-course breakfast can be served in your
room, a copious affair that includes fresh-fruit salad, fresh-squeezed juices in
chilled goblets, smoked salmon, bacon, eggs, sausages, fried tomatoes, toast, and
so on. This place is in the quieter Scilly district of Kinsale.
Scilly, Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-3222. Fax 021/477-3224. www.kinsale.ie/oconnor.htm. 4 units (2
with shower only). €90–€130 ($108–$157) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. AE,
MC, V. Free parking. In room: TV, hair dryer.
The Old Presbytery Value Noreen McEvoy runs this downright darling
little guesthouse with an eye for detail and a passion for hospitality. Set on a
calm street away from the bustling part of town, the house is a charming
labyrinth of half-staircases and landings, giving each room a private feel (though
it can be tricky to trace your way back down to breakfast in the morning). Guest
rooms are winningly decorated with brass and cast-iron beds, old armoires, and
other auction finds. Breakfasts are especially fabulous.
43 Cork St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2027. Fax 021/477-2166. www.oldpres.com. 10 units.
€90–€150 ($108–$181) double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. In room: Hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
The Vintage SEAFOOD/CONTINENTAL In an elegant 200-year-old
house in the heart of Kinsale, this landmark restaurant offers truly wonderful
food in a charming setting. House specialties include Irish salmon baked in a
pastry crust, whole black sole meunière, oven-roasted Barbary duck, and grilled
whole lobster. The gourmet daily-specials menu is enhanced by the expanded
new wine list of more than 160 vintages.
50–51 Main St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2502. www.vintagerestaurant.ie. Reservations recom-
mended. Main courses €28–€33 ($32–$40). AE, MC, V. Mid-Feb to Apr and mid-Oct to Dec Tues–Sat
6:30–10pm; May to mid-Oct daily 6:30–10:30pm. Closed Jan to mid-Feb.
EXPENSIVE
The Blue Haven SEAFOOD Of all the restaurants in Kinsale, this has the
hugest following because there’s something to suit every budget and appetite.
There are really two places to eat: the atmospheric bar for first-rate pub grub or
the lovely, sky-lit restaurant for a full a la carte menu. The bar menu tends
toward smoked seafood quiches, seafood pancakes, oak-smoked salmon, steaks,
pastas, and a lamb stew that’s to die for. The restaurant offers a wide array of
fresh seafood, including a house special of salmon slowly cooked over oak
chips. Other specialties include brill and scallop bake, farmyard duck with sage-
and-onion stuffing, and local venison (in season). The wines have Irish connec-
tions; they come from many of the French wineries that were started by Irish
exiles—the châteaux Dillon, McCarthy, Barton, Kirwan, Lynch, and Phelan.

The wines are also on sale in The Blue Haven’s wine-and-cheese shop.
3 Pearse St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2209. Reservations recommended. Main courses at the bar
€10–€20 ($12–$24); fixed 3-course dinner €35 ($42); dinner main courses €20–€37 ($24–$45). AE, MC,
V. Bar daily 12:15–3pm and 6:30–10pm; restaurant daily 7–10pm.
Max’s Wine Bar Restaurant INTERNATIONAL For more than 20

years, this old-world town house with an outdoor patio has been a local favorite
for a light snack or a full meal. Although Max is long gone and the place is now
in the hands of Anne Marie Galvin, the place now turns out even better fare.
Grilled mussels remain a specialty. Other dishes include goat-cheese pastas, fresh
soups, and roast lamb with lavender sauce. There’s additional seating in the
pleasant conservatory.
Main St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2443. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price early-bird 3-
course dinner €19 ($23); dinner main courses €18–€29 ($22–$35). MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and
6:30–10:30pm. Closed Nov–Feb.
M O D E R AT E
Jim Edwards CONTINENTAL This classy, nautical-inspired pub is
known for its exceptionally refined pub grub. Dishes include boneless duck with
cassis and red-currant sauce, rack of lamb, king prawns in light basil-cream
sauce, medallions of monkfish with fresh herbs, a variety of steaks, and a range
of vegetarian dishes.
Market Quay, off Emmet Place, Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2541. Reservations recommended for din-
ner. Dinner main courses €15–€29 ($18–$35). AE, MC, V. Daily 12:30–11pm for bar food; lunch 12:30–3pm;
dinner 6–10:30pm.
Kinsale Gourmet Store & Fishy Fishy Café SEAFOOD/DELI/

BISTRO This is the “it” lunch spot in Kinsale—exactly the sort of hip, relaxed
place you wish you had in your hometown. The food is outstanding, prices are
fair, and the only apparent drawback is that it’s not open for dinner. There’s
nothing complicated about its success: fresh seafood from the very best local
sources (the owner and chef, Martin Shanahan, is up at 5am to handpick the
best fish off the boats), perfectly prepared fresh vegetables, yummy farmhouse
cheeses, imaginative salads, and homemade breads. The cold dishes at the
counter are wonderful, but Shanahan’s culinary talents really shine through with
his hot dishes. Start with a bowl of his exceptional seafood chowder, then move
on to grilled John Dory with a tomato-and-coriander salsa, or tiger prawns with
chick peas and bacon. Be forewarned that the dozen-ish tables are so very much
in demand that a typical lunchtime wait is 30 minutes. So go for an early or late
lunch to avoid the rush.
Guardwell (next to St. Multoge Church in center of town), Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-4453. No reser-
vations. Lunch average €16–€20 ($19–$24). MC, V. Year-round daily noon–3:45pm.
The Little Skillet IRISH This popular place is no secret––Richard and

Anne Ennos have been here for a dozen or so years––but it still manages to make
you feel that you stumbled upon a terrific little find. For starters, it’s got a feel-
good atmosphere, with a big open hearth and rough stone walls. The kitchen
serves up some of the tastiest Irish food you’ll find anywhere––stews, shepherd’s
pies, champ (mashed potatoes and onions), fresh steamed vegetables, but not a
french fry in sight. When they’re busy, you wait in the bar across the street and
KINSALE 291
they call you when your table is ready. (You can bring your pint back with you).
A great place on a chilly, windy day.
Main St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-4202. Reservations recommended. Main courses €18–€20
($22–$24). MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm.
PUBS
The Bulman About a mile along the quay in the direction of Fort Charles,
The Bulman draws a sweater-and-Wellington-boot contingent made up of both
fishermen and the yachtsmen. There’s also a smattering of artists, students, and
foreign expatriates, all of whom come for the good pints and lovely location.
Twilight is a special time, when you can take your pint outside, listen to the
waves lap up against the wharf, and watch the gulls turn a shimmery orange as
the sun sets. Summercove, Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2131.
The Greyhound Photographers are enchanted with the exterior of this pub,
with its neat flower boxes, rows of stout barrels, and handmade signs depicting
its namesake, the swift Irish racing dog. The interior rooms are cozy and known
for hearty pub grub, such as farmhouse soups, seafood pancakes, shepherd’s pie,
and Irish stew. Market Sq., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2889.
Lord Kingsale A touch of elegance prevails at this handsome pub, decorated
with lots of polished horse brass and black-and-white Tudor-style trappings. It
takes its name (and ancient spelling) from the first Anglo-Norman baron who
took charge of this Irish port in 1223. You’ll often find evening singalongs here,
and the soup-and-sandwich pub grub is very good. There is nightly live enter-
tainment in the summer. Main St. and Market Quay, Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-2371.
The Shanakee With an Anglicized name (derived from the Irish word
seanachie, meaning “storyteller”), this vintage pub is known for its music—
traditional tunes and ballads nightly—and recently added a full restaurant. 6 Mar-
ket St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/477-7077.
1601 Named after the year of the Battle of Kinsale, this vintage pub is popu-
lar with locals and visitors alike. There are three sections: pub, restaurant, and
coffeehouse. If you’ve come to have a pint, head into the intimate back room,
where there’s a fireplace and seating for only about 50 people. Pearse St., Kinsale,
County Cork. & 021/477-2529.
The Spaniard Finds Set high on Compass Hill overlooking the harbor, this is
perhaps Kinsale’s most atmospheric pub. Its exterior, with its whitewashed walls
and thatched roof, is much photographed, and you can have your pint outside
at a table while watching the sun set. Inside, low ceilings and seafaring memo-
rabilia create an intimate feel, and there’s a fireplace in the main room. Named
for Don Juan de Aguila, who rallied his fleet with the Irish in a historic but
unsuccessful attempt to defeat the British in 1601, this old pub draws large
crowds for live music nightly in the summer, and on weekends at other times of
the year. On Sunday year-round, there is a jazz-blues session at 5pm. Scilly, Kin-
sale, County Cork. & 021/477-2436.
The White House With its Georgian facade and distinctive name over the
front entrance, this is yet another pub that tempts many a visitor to take a pho-
tograph. Inside, you will find a popular new bistro, the Antibes Room, with
bright decor and a comfortable bar. End of Pearse St., Kinsale, County Cork. & 021/
477-2125.
2 East Cork
County Cork east of Cork City is notably more tame than West Cork. What the
region lacks in rugged splendor, it makes up in sophisticated amenities: Bally-
maloe House, run by Darina Allen, Ireland’s answer to Julia Child, is famed for
its cooking school and gourmet cuisine, while Crosshaven holds the world’s
most venerable yacht club.
Lying 24km (15 miles) east of Cork City is the harbor town of Cobh (pro-
nounced Cove, meaning “haven” in Irish). In the days before airline travel, Cobh
was Ireland’s chief port of entry and exit, with three or four transatlantic liners
calling each week. For thousands of Irish emigrants, particularly during the
famine years and in the early part of the 20th century, Cobh was the last sight
of Ireland they ever saw. Tragically, it was also the last port of call for the RMS
Titanic before it sank in April 1912. Cobh is still an important, heavily indus-
trialized port. The new visitor attraction, Cobh: The Queenstown Story (see
below), tells the city’s history, which includes the construction of a magnificent
Gothic Revival cathedral, completed in 1915.
The county’s major coastal town is Youghal (pronounced Yawl ), 48km (30
miles) east of Cork City, near the Waterford border. A leading beach resort and
fishing port, Youghal is loosely associated with Sir Walter Raleigh, who was once
the mayor and is said to have planted Ireland’s first potatoes here. From a
tourist’s-eye view, present-day Youghal is a moderately attractive, congested
town with a grand stretch of beach just beyond the center.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE If you’re driving from Cork City, take the main Water-
ford road (N25) east. Exit at R624 for Fota and Cobh, or R632 for Shanagarry
and Ballycotton. Midleton and Youghal have their own signposted exits. If
you’re coming from West Cork and want to bypass Cork City (a good idea dur-
ing rush hour), take the car ferry operated by Cross River Ferries Ltd., Atlantic
Quay, Cobh (& 021/481-1485). It links Carrigaloe, near Cobh, with Glen-
brook, south of Cork City. Ferries run daily from 7:15am to 12:45am; average
crossing time is 5 minutes. No reservations are necessary. Fares are payable on
the ferry. Cars cost €3 ($3.60) one-way, €5 ($6) round-trip.
Irish Rail (& 021/450-64777; www.irishrail.ie) operates daily train service
between Cork City and Cobh via Fota Island. Bus Eireann (& 021/450-8188;
www.buseireann.ie) also provides daily service from Cork City to Cobh and
other points in East Cork.
VISITOR INFORMATION The tourist office is open daily 9:30am to
5:30pm weekdays, 1 to 5pm weekends, at the Old Yacht Club in the lower har-
bor at Cobh (& 021/481-3301). Seasonal tourist offices operate at 4 Main
St., Midleton (& 021/461-3702), and Market Square, Youghal (& 024/
92390), from May or June through September. Hours are 9:30am to 5:30pm.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Ballymaloe Cookery School Professional and amateur cooks from all
over the world flock here to learn from Darina Allen, the Irish answer to Julia
Child. It all started with Darina’s mother-in-law, Myrtle, whose evangelization
of Ireland’s bounty of fresh produce at Ballymaloe House restaurant (see “Where
to Stay & Dine,” below) elevated Irish “country house” cooking to gourmet sta-
tus. The Allen family’s success then led to various other ventures, including the
founding of this cooking school and a line of epicurean foods (look for Darina
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Allen ice cream in Irish supermarkets). The cooking school offers more than 35
different courses a year, which range in length from a half-day to 12 weeks. Top-
ics include bread making, weekend entertaining, tapas, sushi, vegetarian cuisine,
family food, barbecue, mushrooms, and Christmas cooking. There are also
courses for absolute beginners, on new trends in cooking, and for chef certifi-
cates. The beautiful, extensive gardens on the grounds are open to visitors
from April to October. Admission to the gardens is €5 ($6) adults; family dis-
counts available. The Garden Café, open Wednesday to Sunday 11am to 6pm,
serves memorable morning coffee, light lunches, and afternoon tea.
Kinoith, Shanagarry, County Cork. tel] 021/464-6785. Fax 021/464-6909. www.ballymaloe-cookery-
school.ie. Half-day courses €95 ($114); 1- to 5-day courses €185–€695 ($223–$837). Accommodations for
students €25 ($30) per night extra. Open year-round; schedule varies.
Cobh: The Queenstown Story If there’s one thing you learn here, it’s
that you really don’t want to sail from Cobh. Because more than 2.5 million peo-
ple from all over Ireland departed from Cobh in the mid-1800s (it was then
known as Queenstown) for new lives in the United States, Canada, and Aus-
tralia, the city became synonymous with farewells. This heritage center com-
memorates Cobh’s identity as the last port of call for emigrants: convict ships to
Australia, coffin ships to America, and finally transatlantic liners like the Titanic
and Lusitania, both of which sank after leaving Cobh. In a beautifully restored
Victorian railway station, the center tells the story of the city, its harbor, and the
Irish exodus in a series of displays, with an audiovisual presentation and exhibits
that re-create the sinkings of the Titanic and the Lusitania. The center also has
a restaurant, a shop, and a new genealogical referral service.
Cobh Railway Station, Cobh, County Cork. & 021/481-3591. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €4 ($4.80) seniors
and students, €2.50 ($3) children 8–12, free for children under 8, €16 ($19) families. Feb–Dec daily
10am–6pm. Last admission 5pm. Closed Jan.
Fota Island Wildlife Park & Arboretum Kids Fota Wildlife Park is no
ordinary zoo. Wherever possible the animals roam free with no obvious barriers,
while mixed with other species and with us human visitors. It’s home to rare and
endangered types of giraffes, zebras, ostriches, antelopes, cheetahs, flamingos,
penguins, and peafowl. Monkeys swing through the trees, and kangaroos,
macaws, and lemurs have the run of 16 hectares (40 acres) of grassland. Only the
cheetahs are behind conventional fencing. Admission includes entrance to the
adjacent Fota Arboretum. First planted in the 1820s, it contains trees and shrubs
from the world’s temperate and subtropical regions, from China to South Amer-
ica and the Himalayas. A coffee shop, a small amusement park for young chil-
dren, a tour train, picnic tables, and a gift shop are on the grounds.
Fota Island, Carrigtwohill (16km/10 miles east of Cork on Cobh Rd.), County Cork. & 021/481-2678.
www.fotawildlife.ie. Admission €9.50 ($11) adults, €6 ($7.50) seniors, students, and children, €38 ($46)
families. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–6pm. Rail: Cork-Cobh line from Cork City to Fota station. Closed
Dec 25–26.
The Old Midleton Distillery/Jameson Heritage Centre If you’ve

always wanted to know what makes Irish whiskey different from Scotch, you’ve
come to the right place. At the production center for Jameson Whiskey and
other leading Irish brands, you find the largest pot still in the world (with a
capacity of more than 30,000 gal.) and many of the original 1825 structures,
which have been meticulously preserved. They include the mill building, malt-
ings, corn stores, still houses, warehouses, kilns, water wheel, and last copper
stills manufactured in Ireland. The modern distillery uses high-tech methods,
but the production areas are closed to visitors. The center offers an audiovisual
presentation, photographs, working models, and a demonstration, followed by
a tasting after the tour. The restaurant at the center serves country Irish fare for
lunch only.
Distillery Rd., off Main St., Midleton, County Cork. & 021/461-3594. Admission €7.95 ($9.60) adults,
€6.25 ($7.55) seniors and students, €3.50 ($4.20) children, €20 ($23) families. Daily 10am–6pm. Tours on
request; last tour at 5pm.
SHOPPING
Stephen Pearce Pottery One of Ireland’s most successful potters, Stephen
Pearce creates his popular terra-cotta-and-white earthenware pieces in this huge,
sky-lit studio showroom. Downstairs is the workshop and upstairs is the shop
that stocks a selection of glass, jewelry, linens, and the entire range of Stephen
Pearce pottery. You are welcome to watch the team of potters perform this
ancient craft and, whenever possible, children get a piece of clay to make their
own masterpieces. The workshop is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 5pm,
Saturday from 10am to 6pm, and Sunday from noon to 6pm. Shanagarry, County
Cork. & 021/464-6807.
Youghal Pottery This workshop offers a very good selection of pottery and
ceramics in stoneware, earthenware, porcelain, and smoke-fired raku, all hand-
made on the premises. The shop also offers a selection of crafts, woolens, and
textiles. On N25 to Waterford, 1km ( ⁄ mile) from Youghal. & 024/91222.
1
2

EXPENSIVE
Ballymaloe House Combining a Georgian farmhouse facade with the
tower of a 14th-century castle, this ivy-covered enclave of hospitality run by the
Allen family is on a 160-hectare (400-acre) farm, complete with grazing sheep
and cows. Ballymaloe is about 23km (14 miles) southeast of Cork City, less than
3.2km (2 miles) from Ballycotton Bay. The only road sign you’ll see is one that
alerts you to the importance of four-legged traffic: DRIVE SLOW—LAMBS CROSS-
ING. The guest rooms are furnished in informal, comfortable, rather rustic style.
Make no mistake—the high cost of a room here reflects the celebrity of Bally-
maloe House, to which you may want to assign your own value. The biggest rea-
son for coming is the dining room, a pioneer of Ireland’s “country house”
culinary school. It is French-inspired and relies on local seafood and produce,
accompanied by fresh vegetables from the garden. The kitchen’s success has
spawned an acclaimed cooking school (see “Seeing the Sights,” above) and a
shelf of Allen family cookbooks. If you’re interested in Ballymaloe only for the
food, consider staying at the more stylish Barnabrow Country House, nearby
(see below), and popping over here for dinner.
Shanagarry, Midleton, County Cork. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 021/465-2531. Fax 021/465-2021.
www.ballymaloe.ie. 33 units. €192–€280 ($231–$337) double. Dinner averages €55 ($66). Rates include
full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Country House); outdoor swimming pool; 9-hole golf
course; tennis courts; sitting room. In room: Hair dryer.
M O D E R AT E
Aherne’s Seafood Restaurant & Luxury Hotel In the heart of a busy
seaside resort, this cozy restaurant with rooms has been penned into many trav-
elers’ journals because of its first-rate seafood. The Fitzgibbon family has made
Aherne’s into an icon in Irish hospitality, and after three generations they con-
tinue to get the details right. Along with being very comfortably and stylishly
EAST CORK 295
furnished, the guest rooms are all quite large by Irish standards. The best five are
more like hotel suites than rooms—each with an enormous, king-plus bed and
a sea of antiques and designer fabrics. There are two bars and a library-style sit-
ting room, but the main reason to stay here is to be near the superb, classic
seafood restaurant. David Fitzgibbon’s French-influenced cooking makes the
most of the local catch—any fresher and it would still be swimming—including
Blackwater salmon, giant prawn tails, rock oysters, and lobsters from the tank.
Even the bar food is worth a detour—seafood pies, chowders, crab sandwiches,
and crisp salads. Breakfasts here are a real indulgence, served in front of the fire.
163 N. Main St., Youghal, County Cork. & 800/223-6510 in the U.S. or 024/92424. Fax 024/93633.
www.ahernes.com. 12 units. €140–€180 ($169–$217) double. Bar lunch from €10 ($12); dinner main
courses €24–€30 ($29–$36). Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood);
2 bars; nonsmoking rooms; library. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
Barnabrow Country House Kids Who in his right mind would open a
country-house hotel and restaurant within spitting distance of the celebrated
Ballymaloe House? But it’s not fair to compare this handsome, historic house to
Ballymaloe, since they are like apples and oranges. Barnabrow is a terrific place
to stay in its own right. Geraldine O’Brien eschews clichés and has created a
completely original, highly romantic, and incredibly stylish place to stay in the
rolling hills of East Cork. Guest rooms, which are located both in the main
house and in stone buildings off the courtyard, are bathed in warm hues of terra
cottas, apricots, and ochers, and decorated with polished hardwood floors, brass
beds, and a wonderful collection of African furniture and crafts. Some of the
bathrooms boast old-fashioned claw-foot tubs. For families, this is that elusive
(no, make that near-impossible) find: the truly family-friendly-style hotel. There
are cots, cribs, babysitters, and special children’s menus. Kids are safe to roam
freely, and there are plenty of tame animals to meet and pet—donkeys, ducks,
hens, geese, sheep, goats—plus a playground for letting off steam.
Cloyne, Midleton, County Cork. & 021/465-2534. www.barnabrowhouse.ie. 19 units. €120–€170
($145–$205) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); lounge;
babysitting. In room: TV, hair dryer.
The Cross of Cloyne Finds CONTINENTAL Midleton is a funny kind of

place. Ballymaloe is such a big name in East Cork that it tends to dominate the
culinary scene here. But the truth is, there are wonderful establishments in the
vicinity not affiliated in any way with the Allen family––and this is one of them.
In the little medieval village of Cloyne, this unfussy, whitewashed eatery is one
of the best little restaurants you could ever hope to happen upon for breakfast,
lunch, or dinner. Owner/chef Eamon Harty’s food is as straightforward as it
comes. Think chargrilled steaks on champ (onion-laced mashed spuds), wild
salmon with a cool, cucumbery hollandaise sauce, and pan-fried fishcakes with
lemon-and-coriander sauce. As is true with all great chefs, Harty’s success comes
from choosing the freshest vegetables, ripest fruits, and highest-quality meats
and fish, then knowing what to do with them. His homemade breads are heav-
enly, too. All in all, a divine place to know about.
Cloyne, near Midleton, County Cork. & 021/465-2401. Dinner main courses €15–€19 ($18–$23). MC, V.
Daily 10:30am–9pm.
Grapefruit Moon INTERNATIONAL This restaurant generated a lot

of buzz when it opened several years ago and continues to be a darling of food-
ies. So who’s surprised? This is the latest culinary effort from the Allen family (of
Ballymaloe fame; see above) and the man behind the stove is Ivan Whelan, son
of Wendy Allen (who runs the shop at Ballymaloe). Grapefruit Moon is an
elegant, pared-down little place in the middle of Ballycotton, an appealing little
village in East Cork. As in all Allen establishments, the key to everything is using
only the freshest ingredients obtainable. When filets of John Dory are served
cleverly with watermelon salsa, you get the feeling that the John Dory jumped
from the water and on to the plate. Mr. Whelan is an old hand at the stalwarts
of lamb shanks, beef, fish, and poultry (including a divine duck breast served
with caramelized pears and pink peppercorns), but he’s equally talented with
trendier fare like Cantonese noodles served with duck and red peppers or Thai
fish cakes infused with coriander, chile, and lime. Booking ahead is essential,
especially for Friday or Saturday evening.
Main St., Ballycotton, County Cork. & 021/464-6646. Reservations necessary. Dinner main courses
€18–€28 ($22–$34). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 7–9:30pm.
Glenally House Here’s a great new entry for this year’s guide: A won-
derful Georgian country house, set amid 2.8 hectares (7 acres) of gardens and
paddocks, and one of the most stylish places we have seen in East Cork. Take
the beds, for instance. Not just any beds. An antique French bed here, a Span-
ish canopied bed there, some big, contemporary beds with trendy high padded
headboards in another room. And they’ve gotten the details right: Crisp, white
cotton linens, fresh flowers in every room, fabulous cooking, roaring log fires.
Everywhere is a brilliant juxtaposition of antique with up-to-the-minute style,
and it works wonderfully. You’ll be sorry to leave this place.
Youghal, County Cork. & 024/91623. www.glenally.com. 4 units. €90–€120 ($108–$145) double. Rates
include full breakfast. Dinner €40 ($48). MC, V. Amenities: Drawing room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair
dryer.
Myrtleville Oceanside Retreat This timbered ocean-side retreat—a
curiosity in Ireland, where most cottages are built of stone—offers a touch of
Cape Cod and a lot more. It’s right on the sea, with stunning views from the
wraparound deck and living room. Convenient to Cork City, Kinsale, golfing,
yachting, deep-sea fishing, and a sandy beach, it’s on a small country road, fac-
ing the Atlantic at precisely the spot where Victor Hugo worked on Les Mis-
érables. Although the house is 80 years old, its kitchen appliances are new, its
decor graciously inviting. It sleeps six people comfortably.
Contact Elegant Ireland & 01/475-1632. Fax 01/475-1012. www.elegant.ie. 3 double bedrooms (1 w/king-
size bed, 2 w/queens). €1,500–€2,362 ($1,810–$2,823) per week, including utilities. MC, V. Amenities:
Babysitting (by prior arrangement). In room: Full kitchen, washer/dryer.
3 West Cork
For many, West Cork is Ireland’s ultimate destination—not as tourist-heavy as
Kerry, yet every bit as alluring. It shares with Kerry the craggy topography and
jagged coastline that create many hidden corners and seldom-explored byways.
It’s impossible to make good time on the roads here, as they tend to be narrower
and more sinuous than in other parts of the country, twisting along rivers,
through valleys, around mountains, and passing through small town after small
town. But those willing to slow down and go with the flow are amply rewarded.
You’ll probably come across at least one country intersection that’s completely
unsignposted, and have to slow for a herd of sheep slowly making its way down
a country lane. In places, the public route that hugs the coast narrows to just one
WEST CORK 297
lane and delivers some of the most heart-stopping views you’ll ever experience. You
may even come to think of the roads here as one of West Cork’s great pleasures.
West Cork’s most and least favorite son was Michael Collins, who was immor-
talized in an eponymous film starring Liam Neeson, Aidan Quinn, and Julia
Roberts. Collins was both born and murdered in West Cork, and everyone here
has an opinion on him. A hero to some, a traitor to others, the “Big Fella” was
unquestionably a larger-than-life, utterly charismatic man. The memory of
Collins, often referred to as “the man who made Ireland,” is preserved, in partic-
ular, at the Michael Collins Memorial Centre and the ambush site near Macroom.
Some of the most beautiful coastal scenery (and severe weather) is on the
islands. Cape Clear , home to a bird-watching observatory, is also a well-
known Gaeltacht: Many schoolchildren and adults come to work on their Irish
language skills each summer. Dursey Island, off the tip of the Beara Peninsula,
is accessible by a rickety cable car. Garinish Island in Glengarriff is the site of
Ilnacullen, an elaborate Italianate garden.
West Cork is known for its enticing and colorful towns. A cluster of artists
gives Ballydehob a creative flair. At the local butcher, colorful drawings of cat-
tle, pigs, and chickens indicate what’s available, and a mural on the outside wall
of a pub depicts a traditional-music session. Other notable enclaves include the
buzzy, seaside town of Skibbereen (meaning “little boat harbor”), where live,
impromptu traditional-music sessions are commonplace in its 22 pubs; the
immaculate, flower-box-on-every-sill town of Clonakilty; the yachting town
Schull; and Barleycove, a remote, wind-swept resort that’s the last stop before
Mizen Head and the sheer cliffs at the island’s southernmost tip.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE N71 is the main road into West Cork from north and
south; from Cork and points east, N22 also leads to West Cork.
Bus Eireann (& 021/450-8188; www.buseireann.ie) provides daily bus serv-
ice to the principal towns in West Cork.
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Skibbereen Tourist Office, North
Street, Skibbereen, County Cork (& 028/21766). It is open year-round Mon-
day to Friday 9:15am to 5:30pm, with weekend and extended hours May
through September. There are seasonal tourist offices in the Square, Bantry
(& 027/50229), and Rossa Street, Clonakilty (& 023/33226), operating from
May or June through August or September. The Beara Tourism & Develop-
ment Association, the Square, Castletownbere (& 027/70054; www.beara
tourism.com), is also open during the summer.
EXPLORING THE REGION
A number of local historians offer personalized and group tours of archaeo-
logical and historical sites in West Cork. Each tour has its own specific focus. A
range of tours is offered by Don Healy, Ardagh, Rosscarbery, West Cork
(& 023/48726 or mobile 086/353-6596), who charges €130 ($157) per day
for groups of up to 12 people. The Healys also offer very comfortable B&B
accommodation for €70 to €80 ($84–$96) per double. Dolores and Tim
Crowley (& 023/46107) also run tours whose prices begin around €5 ($6) per
person. Currently, on Saturday mornings at 11am in summer, there’s a Michael
Collins Tour at the ambush site (Béal na mBláth, near Macroom), focused on
the assassination of Michael Collins. This tour costs €10 ($12) and is conducted
and booked by Fachtna O’Callaghan, Barley Hill, Rosscarbery (& 028/33223
or mobile 086/235-7343).
There is a magnificent Sheep’s Head Loop drive that begins outside Bantry
along the Goat’s Path to Kilcrohane, then back through Ahakista, and on to
Durrus. The north side is all sheer cliffs and stark beauty (the sunsets are incred-
ible) while the more lush south side road runs right alongside the wondrous
Dunmanus Bay.
You may also want to explore Dursey Island, a barren promontory extend-
ing into the sea at the tip of the Beara Peninsula. It offers no amenities for
tourists, but the adventuresome will find great seaside walks and a memorable
passage from the mainland on Ireland’s only operating cable car. To get there,
take R571 past Cahermore to its terminus. As you sway wildly in the rickety
wooden cable car, reading the text of Psalm 91 (which has kindly been posted
to comfort the nervous), you might wonder whether a ferry might not have been
a wiser option. It wouldn’t. Apparently the channel between island and main-
land is often too treacherous to permit regular crossing by boat. There is no
lodging on the island, so be sure you know when the last cable car departs for
the mainland; for schedule information, call & 027/73017.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Bantry House On the edge of the town of Bantry, this house was built
around 1750 for the earls of Bantry. It has a mostly Georgian facade with Vic-
torian additions. Its interior contains many items of furniture and objets d’art
from all over Europe, including four Aubusson and Gobelin tapestries said to
have been made for Marie Antoinette. Bantry House has been in the White fam-
ily, descendants of the third earl of Bantry, since 1739. The gardens, with origi-
nal statuary, are beautifully kept and well worth a stroll. Climb the steps behind
the building for a panoramic view of the house, gardens, and Bantry Bay.
Bantry, County Cork. & 027/50047. www.bantryhouse.ie. Admission €10 ($12) adults, €8 ($9.65) students
and seniors, free for children under 14. Mar 17–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.
Derreen Gardens The benign climate of West Cork and Kerry has made
this subtropical informal garden a site of great natural beauty, blessedly situated
on a hilly promontory on the breathtaking north coast of the Beara Peninsula.
In the late 19th century, the garden was planted with American species of
conifer, many of which have become venerable giants. One path follows the
sweep of the shoreline through tunnels of rhododendron, while others wind
through the dense foliage of the promontory, opening occasionally to a view of
the mountains or an entrancing rocky glen. The garden is home to several rari-
ties, most notably the New Zealand tree ferns that flourish in a small glade,
among giant blue gum and bamboo.
Signposted 1.6km (1 mile) off R571 in Lauragh, County Kerry. & 064/83588. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €2
($2.40) seniors, students, and children. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm.
Drombeg Stone Circle This ring of 17 standing stones is the finest

example of a megalithic stone circle in County Cork. Hills slope gently toward
the sea nearby, and the builders could hardly have chosen a more picturesque
spot. The circle dates from sometime between 153 B.C. and A.D. 127, but little
is known about its ritual purpose. Just west of the circle are the remains of two
huts and a cooking place; it is thought that heated stones were placed in a water
trough (which can be seen adjacent to the huts), and the hot water was used for
cooking. The cooking place dates from between A.D. 368 and 608.
Off R597 between Rosscarbery and Glandore, County Cork.
WEST CORK 299
Ilnacullin (Garinish Island) Officially known as Ilnacullin but usually

referred to as Garinish, this balmy island was once barren. In 1919 it was trans-
formed into an elaborately planned Italianate garden, with classical pavilions
and myriad unusual plants and flowers from many continents. It’s said that
George Bernard Shaw wrote parts of St. Joan under the shade of its palm trees.
The island can be reached for a round-trip fee of €10 ($12) per person on a cov-
ered ferry operated by Blue Pool Ferry, the Blue Pool, Glengarriff (& 027/
63333). Harbour Queen Ferries, the Harbour, Glengarriff (& 027/63116),
also operate on this route and charge €10 ($12) for a round-trip. Boats operate
every 30 minutes during the island’s visiting hours.
Glengarriff, County Cork. & 027/63040. Admission €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50)
students and children, €8.25 ($9.95) families. Mar and Oct Mon–Sat 10am–4:30pm, Sun 1–5pm; Apr–June
and Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6:30pm, Sun 1–7pm; July–Aug Mon–Sat 9:30am–6:30pm, Sun 11am–6:30pm.
Closed Nov–Feb. Last landing 1 hr. before closing.
Michael Collins Memorial Centre The truth is, there is very little to see
here. More a shrine than an “attraction,” this is a place for those who revere
Collins rather than those who want to learn more about him. The stone farm-
house in which Collins and all his siblings were born was later turned into out-
buildings, which survive. The new, larger farmhouse into which his family
moved when Michael was 10 was burned to the ground in 1921 by the Black
and Tans. Only the foundation remains. Equally shrinelike is the ambush site at
Béal na mBláth, near Macroom, where he was assassinated. For better insight
into Michael Collins and his childhood, read the excellent biographies by Frank
O’Connor and Tim Pat Coogan, available at all good Irish bookshops.
Signposted off N71, 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) west of Clonakilty, Woodfield, County Cork.
Mizen Vision At Mizen Head, the southernmost point in Ireland, the

land falls precipitously into the Atlantic breakers in a procession of spectacular
700-foot sea cliffs. A suspension bridge permits access to the old signal station,
now a visitor center, on a small rock promontory, the southernmost point on the
Irish mainland. It affords pinch-yourself-it-can’t-be-real views of the surround-
ing cliffs, open sea, and nearby Three Castle Head. Whales, seals, dolphins, por-
poises, and daredevil seabirds contribute to the spectacle. No matter what the
weather, it’s worth a trip. On wild days, tremendous Atlantic waves assault the
cliffs. On a clear day, seals bask on the rocks and gannets wheel over the sea and
dive into the tranquil waters.
On the way out to Mizen Head, you’ll pass Barleycove Beach, one of the most
beautiful beaches in southwest Ireland, and a great place to explore.
Mizen Head, County Cork. & 028/35115. Fax 028/35603. Admission €4.50 ($5.40) adults, €3.50 ($4.20)
seniors and students, €2.50 ($3) children, free for children under 5, €14 ($17) families. Apr–May and Oct
daily 10:30am–5pm; June–Sept daily 10am–6:30pm; Nov–Mar Sat–Sun noon–6pm. Closed weekdays
Nov–Mar. Take R591 to Goleen, and follow signs for Mizen Head.
1796 Bantry French Armada Exhibition Centre This center commemo-

rates Bantry Bay’s role in the battle of 1796, when a formidable French
armada—inspired by Theobold Wolfe Tone and the United Irishmen—sailed
from France to expel the British. Almost 50 warships carried nearly 15,000 sol-
diers to this corner of southwest Ireland. Thwarted by storms and a breakdown
in communications, the invasion never came to pass. Ten ships were lost. Too
storm-damaged to return to France, the frigate Surveillante was scuttled off
Moments Southern Exposure: An Excursion

to Cape Clear Island
Cape Clear Island, 13km (8 miles) off the mainland, is the southernmost
inhabited point in Ireland. It is a Gaeltacht, or Irish-speaking area,
which welcomes nearly 200 students every year who come to perfect
their Irish. The country’s islands are part of its last frontier, the last bits
of rugged untamed splendor. Even Cape Clear is struggling to preserve
the balance of beauty and livelihood that allows remote settlements
to remain both remote and settled. This place can be bleak, with a
craggy coastline and no trees to break the rush of sea wind, but that
very barrenness appeals to many for its stark beauty, rough and irreg-
ular, but not without solace and grace. In early summer, wildflowers
brighten the landscape, and in October, passerine migrants, some on
their way from North America and Siberia, fill the air. Seabirds are
present in abundance during the nesting season, especially from July
to September. At any time, Cape Clear is unforgettable.
The first step to enjoying the island is reaching it. The Naomh Cia-
rán II offers passenger-only ferry service year-round, seas permitting. In
the highest season (July–Aug), the Naomh Ciarán II leaves Baltimore
Monday to Saturday at 11am, 2:15pm, 5pm, and 7pm, and Sunday at
noon, 2:15, 5, and 7pm; return service from Cape Clear departs Mon-
day to Saturday at 9am and 6pm, and Sunday at 11am, 1pm, 4pm, and
6pm. Service is always subject to the seas and is more limited off sea-
son. The passage takes 45 minutes, and a round-trip ticket costs €12
($14) for adults, €6.50 ($7.85) for children, and €28 ($34) for families.
For inquiries, contact Captain Conchúr O’Driscoll (& 028/39135 or
086/266-2197; www.capeclearferry.com).
Summer service is also available aboard Karycraft, departing Schull
daily in June, July, and August at 10:30am, 2:30pm, and 4:30pm; and
departing Cape Clear at 11:30am, 3:30pm, and 5:30pm. In September,
service is limited to one crossing daily, departing Schull at 2:30pm and
Cape Clear at 5:30pm. The round-trip fare is €12 ($14) for adults, €5
($6) for children, and €29 ($35) for a family. The passage takes 45 min-
utes. For inquiries, contact & 028/28278.
Whiddy Island and lay undisturbed for almost 200 years. The centerpiece of this
exhibition is a giant scale (1:6) model of the ship in cross section, illustrating life
in the French navy 200 years ago and various activities as they happened
onboard.
East Stables, Bantry House, Bantry, County Cork. & 027/51796. Admission €4 ($4.80) adults, €2.50 ($3)
seniors and students. Mid-Apr to mid-Oct daily 10am–4pm.
SHOPPING
Bandon Pottery Shop Right in the town center, this attractive shop pro-
duces a colorful line of hand-thrown tableware, vases, bowls, and other acces-
sories. Paintings, sculpture, and other works of art are on display and for sale. St.
Finbarr’s Place, Bandon, County Cork. & 023/47843.
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Once you’re on Cape Clear, there are a number of things to see,

including birds galore, seals, dolphins, the occasional whale, ancient
“marriage stones,” and a goat farm offering courses on everything
you ever wanted to know (about goats). Don’t miss the hauntingly
spectacular castle ruins on the island’s western shore.
There’s also a lot to do apart from hiking and sightseeing. Cléire
Lasmuigh, Cape Clear Island Adventure Centre (& 028/39198), offers
an array of outdoor programs, from snorkeling and sea kayaking to
hillwalking and orienteering. Instruction or accompanied sessions are
available by the hour, day, or week. For example, prices for a 5-day
sea-kayaking package (including meals, housing, instruction, and
equipment rental) start at €250 ($301). Coastal cruises—for sea
angling, scuba diving, or bird-watching—are the specialty of Ciarán
O’Driscoll (&/fax 028/39153). There are no plans for a shopping mall,
but you will enjoy the local art and crafts and books in Harpercraft
and the Back Room in Cotter’s Yard, North Harbour, as well as the
nearby pottery shop. While you’re at it, pick up a copy of Chuck
Kruger’s Cape Clear Island Magic. There’s no better introduction to
the wonder of this place.
Modest hostel, B&B, and self-catering accommodations are avail-
able by the day, week, or month. The island’s An Óige Youth Hostel
(& 028/39198) at the Cape Clear Adventure Centre is open March
through October. Most B&Bs are open year-round. They include Fáilte
(contact Eleanór Uí Drisceoil, & 028/39135) and Ard na Gaoith (con-
tact Eileen Leonard, & 028/39160). For self-catering cottages by the
day or week, contact Ciarán O’Driscoll (& 028/39135). To drop anchor,
The Southernmost House (see “Self-Catering,” later in this section) is
without parallel. You can’t miss the town’s three pubs and two restau-
rants, which will keep you well fortified. (Also, the fruit scones baked
and served at Cistin Chléire on North Harbour are the among the best
in Ireland.)
Cape Clear has a helpful website at www.oilean-chleire.ie.
Courtmacsherry Ceramics Overlooking the sea, this studio and shop offers an
array of porcelain animals, birds, butterflies, and tableware, all inspired by the flora
and fauna of West Cork. Visitors are welcome to watch potter Peter Wolstenholme
at work on new creations. Main St., Courtmacsherry, County Cork. & 023/46239.
Prince August Ltd. Prince August is Ireland’s only toy-soldier factory. The
shop produces and displays a huge collection of metal miniatures based on J. R.
R. Tolkien’s classic books The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings. Factory tours are
available. Kilnamartyra, Macroom, County Cork. & 026/40222. Off the N22, northwest of Kinsale.
Quills Woollen Market This family-run enterprise is headquartered in a
small village deep in the heart of West Cork’s Gaelic-speaking region. You’ll find
wonderful handmade sweaters, knitwear, and garments made from wool and
goatskins. Main St., Macroom, County Cork. & 026-43910.
Rossmore Country Pottery This family-run studio produces a lovely range

of practical domestic stoneware and a colorful collection of earthenware deco-
rated flower pots. Rossmore, County Cork (11km/7 miles from Clonakilty on Bandon-Bantry
Rd.). & 023/38875.

BEACHES Barleycove Beach is a vast expanse of pristine sand and a fine
view out toward the Mizen Head cliffs; despite the trailer park and holiday
homes on the far side of the dunes, large parts of the beach never seem to get
crowded. Take R591 to Goleen, and follow signs for Mizen Head. There is a
public parking lot at the Barleycove Hotel.
Inchydoney Beach, on Clonakilty Bay, is famous for both its gorgeous,
extrawide beach and the salubrious Inchydoney Lodge & Spa (& 023/33143),
which specializes in thalasso (seawater) treatments. For more information, visit
www.inchydoneyisland.com.
BICYCLING The Mizen Head, Sheep’s Head, and Beara peninsulas offer
fine roads for cycling, with great scenery and few cars. The Beara Peninsula is
the most spectacular; the other two are less likely to be crowded with tourists
during peak season. The loop around Mizen Head, starting in Skibbereen, is a
good 2- to 3-day trip, and a loop around the Beara Peninsula from Bantry, Glen-
garriff, or Kenmare is at least 3 days at a casual pace.
In Skibbereen, 18- and 21-speed bicycles can be rented from Roycroft’s
Stores (& 028/21235; [email protected]); prices run €60 to €85 ($75–$102) per
week, depending on the season. If you call ahead, you can reserve a lightweight
mountain bike with toe clips at no extra cost—an enormous advantage over the
leaden, battleship-like bicycles rented at most stores. One-way riding from Skib-
bereen to Killarney or Kenmare can be arranged for an additional €24 to €36
($31–$43).
BIRD-WATCHING Cape Clear Island is the prime birding spot in West
Cork, and one of the best places in Europe to watch seabirds and passerine
migrants (see the box “Southern Exposure: An Excursion to Cape Clear Island,”
above). The best time for seabirds is July to September, and October is the
busiest month for passerines (and for bird-watchers, who flock to the island).
There is a bird observatory at the North Harbour, with a warden in residence
from March to November, and accommodations for bird-watchers; to arrange a
stay, write to Kieran Grace, 84 Dorney Court, Shankhill, County Dublin. Cia-
rán O’Driscoll (& 028/39153), who operates a B&B on the island, also runs
boat trips for bird-watchers and has a keen eye for vagrants and rarities.
DIVING The Baltimore Diving & Watersports Centre, Baltimore, County
Cork (& 028/20300), provides equipment and boats to certified divers for
exploring the many shipwrecks, reefs, and caves in this region. The cost is €40
($48) per dive with equipment. Various 2-hour to 15-day certified PADI courses
are available for all levels of experience. For example, beginners can take a 2-hour
snorkeling course for €30 ($36), or a scuba-diving course for €45 to €450
($54–$542), depending on duration; experienced divers can take the 2-week
PADI instructor course.
FISHING The West Cork Coast is known for its many shipwrecks, which are
quickly taken over by all manner of marine life after they hit the ocean floor.
Wreck fishing is popular all along the Irish coast, and this is one of the best
places for it. Mark and Patricia Gannon of Woodpoint House, Courtmac-
sherry (& 023/46427), offer packages that include bed-and-breakfast in their
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idyllic stone farmhouse and a day’s sea angling aboard one of their two new
Aquastar purpose-built fishing boats. A day’s fishing costs €50 ($60) per person.
Boats holding up to 12 people can be chartered for €400 to €450 ($480–$542)
per day, including a qualified skipper.
KAYAKING With hundreds of islands, numerous inviting inlets, and a
plethora of sea caves, the coast of West Cork is a sea kayaker’s paradise. Lough
Ine offers warm, still waters for beginners, a tidal rapid for the intrepid, and
access to a nearby headland riddled with caves that demand exploration. In
Castletownbere on the dramatic and rugged Beara Peninsula, Beara Outdoor
Pursuits (& 027/70682; www.seakayakingwestcork.com), specializes in accom-
panied trips out and around Bere Island and as far as Glengariff. Frank Conroy
is a terrific guide and can lead you to waters that are as protected or as rough as
you want them.
SAILING The Glenans Irish Sailing Club (www.glenans-ireland.com) was
founded in France and has two centers in Ireland, one of which is in Baltimore
Harbour. The centers provide weeklong courses at all levels, using dinghies,
cruisers, catamarans, or windsurfers; prices are €329 to €559 ($396–$674).
The living facilities are spartan, with dorm-style accommodations, and you cook
for yourself. The clientele is mostly middle-aged and younger, from Ireland and
the Continent. Two-day weekend sailing courses are available in Baltimore in
May, June, September, and October for €190 ($229) per person; call & 01/
661-1481 or fax 01/676-4249 for advance booking.
WALKING One of the most beautiful coastal walks in West Cork begins
along the banks of Lough Ine, the largest saltwater lake in Europe. Connected
to the sea by a narrow isthmus, the lake is in a lush valley of exceptional beauty.
To get there, follow signs for Lough Ine along R595 between Skibbereen and
Baltimore; there is a parking lot at the northwest corner of the lake. The wide
trail proceeds gradually upward from the parking lot through the woods on the
west slope of the valley, with several viewpoints toward the lake and the sea
beyond. Once you reach the hilltop, there is a sweeping view of the coast from
Mizen Head to Galley Head. Walking time to the top and back is about 11⁄2
hours.
At the vertigo-inducing high cliffs of Mizen Head, it was once possible for
the sure of foot and steady of spirit to explore the surrounding heights. No
more. Access to the cliffs is limited to the suspension bridge leading to the
“Mizen Vision” lighthouse. No ticket or admission is required for access to the
bridge.
Near Lauragh on the Beara Peninsula is the abandoned town of Cum-
mingeera, at the base of a cliff in a wild, remote valley. The walk to the village
gives you a taste for the rough beauty of the Caha Mountains, and a sense for
the lengths to which people in pre-famine Ireland would go to find a patch of
arable land. To get to the start of the walk, take the road posted for Glanmore
Lake south from R571; the road is 1.3km (3⁄4 miles) west of the turnoff for Healy
Pass. Follow the Glanmore Lake road 1km (2⁄3 miles), then turn right at the road
posted for “stone circle”; continue 2.1km (11⁄3 miles) to the point at which the
road becomes dirt, and park on the roadside. From here, there is no trail—sim-
ply walk up the valley to its terminus, about 2km (11⁄4 miles) away, where the
ruins of a village hug the cliff ’s base. Where the valley is blocked by a headland,
take the route around to the left, which is less steep. Return the way you came;
the whole walk—4km (21⁄2 miles)—is moderately difficult and takes about 2
hours.
An easy seaside walk on the Beara Peninsula begins at Dunboy Castle, just
over a mile west of Castletownbere on R572; this stretch of trail is part of the
O’Sullivan Beara trail, which may eventually extend from Castletownbere to
Leitrim. You can park your car along the road, by the castellated gatehouse, or
drive up to the castle. The castle is a ruined 19th-century manor house over-
looking the bay, with some graceful marble arches spanning the grand central
hall. Just down the road are the sparse ruins of a medieval fortress. Beyond, the
trail continues to the tip of Fair Head through overarching rhododendrons, with
fine views across to Bere Island. A walk from the gatehouse parking lot to the tip
of Fair Head and back takes about 2 hours.
The Sheep’s Head Way, voted “Best Walk in Ireland,” by Country Walking
magazine, makes an 89km (55-mile) loop and incorporates numerous smaller
day loops. The Guide to the Sheep’s Head Way, available in most local stores and
tourist offices, combines history, poetry, and topography in a fantastic intro-
duction to the region. In the 17th century, the Sheep’s Head Peninsula was
described as “being all rocky and frequented only by eagles and birds—never to
be inhabited by reason of the rough incommodities.” It still is a rough place, and
you won’t find many tourists in its more remote reaches. There are treasures to
be found, but you might have to work a little harder to unearth them here than
in regions long since “discovered.”
One of Ireland’s most beautiful spots, Gougane Barra (which means “St. Fin-
bar’s Cleft”) is a still, dark, romantic lake a little northeast of the Pass of
Keimaneigh, 24km (15 miles) northeast of Bantry off T64 (also well signposted
on the Macroom-Glengarriff rd.). This is the source of the River Lee, where St.
Finbar founded a monastery in these deeply wooded mountains, supposedly on
the small island connected by a causeway to the mainland. Though nothing
remains of the saint’s 6th-century community, the setting is idyllic, with rhodo-
dendrons spilling into the still waters where swans glide by. The island now
holds an elfin chapel and eight small circular cells, dating from the early 1700s,
as well as a modern chapel. Today Gougane Barra is a national forest park, and
there are signposted walks and drives through the wooded hills. There’s a small
admission charge per car to enter the park.
WINDSURFING Weeklong courses and equipment rental are available at the
Glenans Irish Sailing Club (see “Sailing,” above) in Baltimore. There is a shel-
tered beach in Courtmacsherry where beginners can get started and another
beach that’s good for wave jumping nearby.
WHERE TO STAY
EXPENSIVE
Ballylickey Manor House Could any setting be more romantic? Bal-
lylickey Manor is hidden in rugged inlets with a stunning view of Bantry Bay,
nestled on 4 hectares (10 acres) of award-winning lawns and gardens, with a
backdrop of mountains and moorlands. The 300-year-old manor house, built as
a shooting lodge for Lord Kenmare, has five large suites, and there are an addi-
tional seven more rustic, modern wood cottages clustered around the swimming
pool. Every room is decorated with country-style furnishings. This inn has an
international ambience, thanks to the influence of its owners, the Franco-Irish
Graves family, and a largely European clientele.
Bantry-Glengarriff rd. (N71), Ballylickey, County Cork. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 027/50071. Fax
027/50124. www.ballylickeymanorhouse.com. 14 units. €160–€320 ($193–$386) double. Rates include full
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); outdoor swimming pool; 3
drawing rooms. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
WEST CORK 305

Longueville House Hotel This is one of those rare places that is

refined enough to please the most sophisticated traveler and yet one that remains
charmingly rural, without a hint of pretense. The house itself is a white palatial
affair built about 1720 and situated on a 200-hectare (500-acre) farmland estate
with its own winery. All this grandness is saved from pomposity by the down-
to-earth, laid-back manner of the O’Callaghan family. Guest rooms are sump-
tuous without going overboard, furnished in old-world style, with family
heirlooms and period pieces, and most have bucolic views of the gardens, graz-
ing pastures, or vineyards. The beacon of Longueville is the Presidents’ Room,
an award-winning restaurant where William O’Callaghan continues to demon-
strate why he is one of Ireland’s most gifted chefs. He sources produce and veg-
etables from the hotel’s farm and gardens and from local markets, and
transforms them into something memorable. In the summer, meals are also
served in a gorgeous, sky-lit Victorian conservatory.
Killarney rd. (N72), Mallow, County Cork. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 022/47156. Fax 022/47459.
www.longuevillehouse.ie. 20 units. €180–€360 ($217–$434) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner
€55 ($66). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Feb to early Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (modern Continental); non-
smoking rooms; drawing rooms. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Baltimore Harbour Hotel Kids Nearly every room in this strategically
placed harbor hotel has a lovely view. The public rooms—bar, garden room, and
Clipper Restaurant—are fresh, bright, and inviting, with a contemporary nauti-
cal feel. The guest rooms are quite comfortable, with extraordinary views of the
harbor and mountainous coastline. Room nos. 216 and 217 are especially spa-
cious, at no extra cost. A host of weekend, multiple-night, and B&B-and-din-
ner packages offers special rates. The hotel also features 18 suites, which are ideal
for families, as is the kids’ club (for ages 4 and older) that offers activity pro-
grams in the summer and on bank-holiday weekends.
Signposted off R595 in Baltimore, County Cork. & 028/20361. Fax 028/20466. www.baltimoreharbour
hotel.ie. 64 units. €120–€168 ($145–$202) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast.
Packages available. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor swimming pool; gym;
Jacuzzi; steam room; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Sea View House This handsome, seaside hotel is homey and full of inter-
esting heirlooms, fine antiques, and an utter disregard for fads and trends. Instead,
Kathleen O’Sullivan and her staff just stick to the old-fashioned principles of good
service and make sure that every guest is taken care of. The cheerily decorated
rooms are individually furnished in a manner Grandma would like, with dark
woods, busy fabrics, and mattresses firm enough to bounce a penny off of. Request
a room in the front of the house for peek-a-boo views of Bantry Bay through the
leafy trees. The establishment is best known for Kathleen’s award-winning cuisine,
the sort of hearty comfort food that’s reassuringly still devoted to using politically
incorrect dollops of fresh cream, real butter, a slug of booze, and salt.
Bantry-Glengarriff rd. (N71), Ballylickey, County Cork. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 027/50073. Fax
027/51555. 25 units. €140–€175 ($169–$211) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed mid-
Nov to mid-Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; outdoor patio. In room: TV, hair dryer.
West Cork Hotel Finds The name to know here is John Murphy, one of
the most congenial, hospitable, and hardworking innkeepers in Ireland. His is
the sort of comfy, old-style hotel that is stylish in spite of itself. Everything is
designed to induce contentment and familiarity, and it’s a testimony to its suc-
cess that the public areas—particularly the buzzy pub—always draw a big local
crowd. Murphy is the kind of host who can work the crowd, juggle a dozen tasks
at once, and still make you feel like you’re his one and only personal guest. Guest
rooms are very relaxing in the old-fashioned Irish way, with lots of traditional
dark woods and mismatched patterns. The handsome, yellow building at the
Kennedy bridge is the first thing you see if you enter Skibbereen from the west
on N71, or the last as you leave town if you’re heading in the opposite direction.
Ilen St., Skibbereen, County Cork. & 028/21277. Fax 028/22333. 30 units. €104–€160 ($125–$193) dou-
ble. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec 22–28. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar. In
room: TV.
Westlodge Hotel Kids Though more than a tad generic-looking from the
outside, this modern three-story hotel is ideal for budget-conscious families. What
separates it from the ho-hum pack is its spanking-new leisure center and wide
array of child-friendly amenities. The public areas and guest rooms are bright and
airy, enhanced by wide windows, blond-wood furnishings, and bright Irish fabrics.
Westlodge specializes in family holidays and offers organized activities for children
June through August. For even better value, ask about the multiple-day packages.
Off Bantry-Glengarriff rd. (N71), Bantry, County Cork. & 027/50360. Fax 027/50438. www.westlodge
hotel.ie. 95 units. €130–€160 ($157–$193) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor swimming pool; tennis; gym; Jacuzzi; steam room;
kids’ playroom; babysitting; nonsmoking rooms; squash. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
INEXPENSIVE
Ballinatona Farm Finds Like the region that surrounds it, this working
dairy farm is a little-known treasure, just far enough off the beaten track to be
spared the crowds that congest much of the southwest during the summer.
While the landscape isn’t wild and rugged like that of the West Cork coast, its
gentler beauty is still magnificent. The energetic hosts, Jytte Storm and Tim
Lane, know the region well and their excitement over its hidden delights is truly
infectious. Just a 15-minute walk brings you to the stunning valley that holds
Coomeenatrush waterfall at its head, while longer walks take you along the
ridgeline of the surrounding hills. The house is tucked high onto the hillside at
240m (800 ft.) above sea level and commands magnificent views. A modern
addition has been designed to take full advantage of the site, and all but one
room command striking vistas. The second-floor front room, reached by a spi-
ral staircase, offers a breathtaking view, with glass walls on three sides.
4.8km (3 miles) out of Millstreet on the Macroom rd., Millstreet, County Cork. & 029/70213. Fax
029/70940. www.irishfarmholidays.com/ballinatona-farm.html. 6 units. €62 ($75) double. Rates include full
breakfast. Discount for children under 12 sharing B&B with parent. MC, V. Closed Dec 15–Jan 1. In room: TV,
Fortview House This former winner of the Irish Agritourism Award for
“best B&B in the South” boasts pristine country-style rooms, with antique pine
furniture, wood floors, iron and brass beds, and crisp Irish linens. Beamed ceil-
ings and a warm color palette add to the comfortable feeling, and the spacious,
inviting sitting room, equipped with tea and coffee facilities and an honor-system
bar, completes the welcome. Violet Connell’s copious breakfasts are legendary,
with seven varieties of fresh-squeezed juices jostling for space on a menu that
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includes hot potato cakes, pancakes, kippers, smoked salmon, and eggs prepared
however you’d like.
If you prefer self-catering, there are also two three-bedroom cottages (each
sleeps six) on the Fortview grounds that rent for €320 ($386) per week in low
season and €650 ($783) per week in the summer.
On R591 from Durrus toward Goleen, Gurtyowen, Toormore, Goleen, County Cork. & 028/35324. 5 units.
€80 ($96) double. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Sitting room. In
room: TV.
Glebe Country House Built in 1690 as a rectory, Glebe House is now the
gracious home of Jill Goode. The charming guest rooms, each comfortable and
individually decorated, enjoy views of the rose and herb gardens that wreath the
house. A fireplace and piano accent the peaceful living room. The enticing
breakfast menu includes waffles, scrambled eggs with rosemary shortbread,
“cheesy French toast” (a Glebe House invention), and homemade brown and
soda breads. The spacious dining room provides a lovely setting for candlelit
five-course dinners partly drawn from the house’s garden. Dinners cost €30
($36); book before noon and bring your own wine.
The Coach House apartments behind the main house offer comfortable self-
catering accommodations. The ground-floor, two-bedroom garden apartment
sleeps five, with a double and single bed in one room and twin beds in the other.
Equipped with all the essentials, it has an open living-dining-kitchen area decorated
in simple country-cottage style. The ideal choice for families is the one-bedroom
loft apartment that sleeps five, with a double and single bed in one room and a pull-
out sofa in the living room. A compact kitchen is equipped with all you need to
prepare substantial meals. Both apartments have linens, and each has a private
patio-garden. A chalet in the garden, Beech Lodge, is available for up to six guests.
Balinadee (off Balinadee center), Bandon, County Cork. & 021/4778294. Fax 021/4778456.
http://indigo.ie/~glebehse. 4 units and 2 self-catering units. €80–€90 ($96–$108) double (rates include serv-
ice charge and full Irish breakfast); €325–€572 ($392–$689) per week for self-catering units. MC, V. Ameni-
ties: Living room. In room: Tea/coffeemaker.
Heron’s Cove Locals on the Mizen Head peninsula know The Heron’s
Cove as a terrific seafood restaurant (see below), but it’s really what the Irish call
a restaurant with rooms and a very inviting place to stay. Its three sea-view
rooms, with balconies overlooking a beautiful, sheltered cove, are tremendously
appealing. The rooms are comfortably furnished, and the atmosphere of the
entire B&B is so friendly it’s almost familial. Enjoying a wonderful dinner with
wine over sunset and then scampering upstairs to your room for a moonlit view
of the harbor is paradise found.
Signposted in the center of Goleen, County Cork. & 028/35225. Fax 028/35422. www.heronscove.com. 5
units. €70 ($84) double; €90 ($108) triple. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. In room: TV, tea/cof-
Rock Cottage This new B&B offers a wonderfully secluded, relaxing

retreat in what was once Lord Bandon’s hunting lodge. The spacious guest
rooms, in the tastefully restored Georgian building, combine ample shares of
elegance and comfort. Here’s the best news: Your hostess, Barbara Klötzer, used
to be the head chef at Blair’s Cove and is now able to focus her culinary wizardry
on a handful of lucky guests.
Barnatonicane (11km/7 miles from Durrus on R591), Schull, County Cork. & 028/35538. www.rock
cottage.ie. 3 units. €100 ($120) double. Rates include full breakfast. 3-course dinner €35 ($42). MC, V. Free
parking. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Rolf’s Holiday Hostel Rolf ’s is a long-established, award-winning, fam-

ily-run hostel beautifully situated on Baltimore Hill overlooking the harbor and
the Mizen peninsula. This appealing cut-stone complex of buildings—somehow
alpine, with steep lofts and wide beams—offers an array of lodging and dining
options. All guests have access to the open self-catering kitchen, which is
unlikely to compete with Rolf ’s Cafe Art and Restaurant. The art here refers to
the rotating exhibits of contemporary Irish painting and sculpture selected by
Frederika Haffner, Rolf ’s daughter, a fine sculptor. Both cafe and restaurant are
open daily from 8am to 9:30pm, providing excellent value across their impres-
sive menus and wine lists. Johannes Haffner, Rolf ’s son, grew up here and takes
great pride in offering the finest in hostel hospitality.
.5km (1⁄3 mile) off R595, signposted just outside Baltimore center, Baltimore, County Cork. &/fax 028/20289.
€60 ($75) double room; €15 ($18) per person in 4-bed dorm; €55 ($66) family room. MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant (international). In room: Full kitchen, washing machine.
Ahakista Simplicity, charm, and an alluring location on the Sheep’s Head
Peninsula (the least touristy of Cork’s three peninsulas) make this recently
restored stone cottage a magnificent getaway. It’s a short walk to the two-pub
farming and fishing village of Ahakista. The old-fashioned cottage, whose low-
slung ceilings and traditional, narrow staircase lend intimacy, enjoys fine views
of Dunmanus Bay and is surrounded by 97km (60 miles) of marked walking
paths along the wild coastline, which the Nobel Prize–winning poet Seamus
Heaney has described as “water and ground in their extremity.” The two-bed-
room cottage has one double and one twin.
Contact Elegant Ireland & 01/475-1632. Fax 01/475-1012. www.elegant.ie. 1 cottage. From €920 ($1,109)
per week. MC, V. In room: TV, full kitchen, dishwasher, dryer, washing machine.
Anne’s Grove Medieval Miniature Castle Finds What could be more

romantic than a tiny, Gothic castle just big enough for two? Designed by the dis-
tinguished architect Benjamin Woodward in 1853, this gate lodge of Anne’s
Grove Gardens was conceived as a medieval castle in miniature. It had been
vacant and neglected from the 1940s to the 1990s, when the Irish Landmark
Trust turned it into something immensely cozy and enchanting. There is a liv-
ing room with a fireplace, a well-equipped kitchen, one double bedroom, and a
bathroom. There are hardwood floors throughout the lodge and the furnishings
are rustic and inviting. The architectural lines of the rooms—leaded windows,
doorways, and ceilings—all echo the classic Gothic arch. There is perhaps no
more dreamy base from which to explore northwest Cork, and the price is
downright unbeatable.
Castleownroach, County Cork. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust & 01/670-4733. Fax 01/670-4887.
www.irishlandmark.com. 1 unit. €205 ($247) for 4 nights in low season, sliding up to €465 ($560) per week
in high season. Payable by AE, MC, V at booking. In room: Kitchen, microwave.
Galley Head Lightkeeper’s House Finds A recent addition to the won-

derful stable of Irish Landmark Trust properties, this light-keeper’s house stands
next to the lighthouse on the tip of breathtaking Galley Head, just south of
Clonakilty. It’s actually two connecting houses, which can be rented separately
or together. In the first house, downstairs comprises a fully equipped kitchen,
sitting room, and lounge/bedroom with bathroom. Upstairs, there are two bed-
rooms (one double, one twin) and a bathroom. The second house has the same
basic floor plan, minus the downstairs lounge and bathroom. Both houses are
chockablock with old-world charms—sturdy mahogany furnishings, oversize
WEST CORK 309
sofas and armchairs, quality Irish linens, a fireplace in every room, wide plank
floors, and deep windowsills with wooden interior shutters. It’s location is idyl-
lic: As remote as you’d hope for from a lighthouse, and still only a 20-minute
drive to bustling Clonakilty, a little jewel in West Cork. As with all ILT proper-
ties, there is no TV. One of the property’s best assets is its caretaker, Gerald But-
ler, a third-generation light keeper (on both sides of his family!) who actually
grew up in this house. He’s a marvelous storyteller and history buff and can give
you a private tour of the lighthouse.
Galley Head, County Cork. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust & 01/670-4733. Fax 01/670-4887. www.irish
landmark.com. 2 units. €310 ($374) for 4 nights in low season, sliding up to €840 ($1,102) per week in high
season. Payable by AE, MC, V at booking. In room: Kitchen, dishwasher, washing machine.
The Southernmost House This exquisitely situated cottage is the south-

ernmost dwelling on the southernmost inhabited Irish island, Cape Clear. Quite
simply, it redefines the word “getaway.” Five years were devoted to the restora-
tion of this centuries-old traditional island cottage, and everything was done to
perfection. The exposed stone walls, pine ceilings and floors, multiple skylights,
and simple, tasteful furnishings make it a most pleasing and comfortable nook,
and the views from virtually every window are stunning. It’s cozy enough for a
love nest, and spacious enough for a family of six (it has three bedrooms). If it
rains—and this has been known to happen on the “Cape”—the massive stone
fireplace is the perfect antidote. The one downside: This place is so popular that
you’ll need to book up to 9 months in advance.
Glen West, Cape Clear, County Cork. &/fax 028/39157. http://indigo.ie/~ckstory. 1 cottage. €300–€575
($360–$693) per week. No credit cards. Discounts for longer-term rentals. In room: TV, kitchen, washing
machine.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
Blair’s Cove INTERNATIONAL This restaurant boasts one of the
most romantic, captivating dining rooms in Ireland: a stone-walled, high-
ceilinged affair with open fireplaces overlooking majestic Dunmanus Bay. Own-
ers Philip and Sabine de Mey have converted a stone barn with a 250-year-old
Georgian courtyard and terrace into one of the best dining experiences in south-
west Ireland. You begin with the hors d’oeuvre buffet of cold starters (perhaps
salmon fumé, prawns, oysters, or mousse), a display large enough to satisfy some
dinner appetites. Moving on to your main course, the menu is particularly
strong on grilled meats—rack of lamb, grilled rib of beef—and fresh fish, such
as monkfish filet flambéed in Pernod. For dessert, step up to the grand piano
that doubles as a sweets trolley. Naturally, the cheese course includes plenty of
Irish farmhouse varieties, including the local specialty, Durrus. Don’t look for
cutting-edge, break-the-mold fusion; this place is all about classic dishes done in
a familiar way, only better than you’ve likely had them elsewhere. There are also
a small number of rooms available for nightly B&B, costing €170 to €200
($205–$240) for a double room. For longer stays, there are also four duplex
apartments and two cottages available for rent, for €440 to €1,100
($530–$1,325) per week.
Barley Cove Rd., Durrus, County Cork. & 027/61127. Fax 027/61487. Reservations required. Dinner with
starter buffet €50 ($60); buffet and dessert €39 ($47). MC, V. Tues–Sat 7:15–9:30pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
Casino House INTERNATIONAL Kerrin and Michael Relja’s enchant-

ing little restaurant is yet another West Cork eatery with a fabulous setting and
terrific ambience. The views of Courtmacsherry Bay will make you gasp, and the
interior is Nantucket meets Provence. Michael’s cooking is invariably inventive

and eclectic, yet thankfully focused on bringing out the flavors of the main ingre-
dient. His menu changes according to what’s fresh at the market, but starters
might include ricotta, vegetables and tofu in phyllo pastry, cream of carrot soup
served with caramelized walnuts, or terrine of quail with pistachio nuts and shi-
itake mushrooms. Main dishes might include roast duck with Madeira, or
Michael’s melt-in-your-mouth sole with spring onions and wild rice. The globe-
trotting wine list includes many good-value options from Germany and Italy.
16km (10 miles) from Kinsale on coast rd. (R600), Coulmain Bay, Kilbrittain, County Cork. & 023/49944.
Reservations recommended. Main courses €19–€25 ($23–$30). MC, V. Tues–Sun 7–9pm; Sun 1–3pm. Closed
Jan to mid-Mar.
Chez Youen SEAFOOD Overlooking the marina of this picturesque

harbor town, Frenchman Youen Jacob’s restaurant has been wooing West Cork
since 1978. The decor evokes Jacob’s native Brittany and is tremendously relax-
ing, with beamed ceilings, candlelight, colorful pottery, and an open copper fire-
place. Lobster is the specialty, fresh from local waters, but the steaks, poached
wild salmon in fennel, and leg of lamb are also very good. The chef ’s signature
dish—the one that commands the €40 ($48) price tag—is a mountainous gour-
met shellfish platter, which includes Galley Head prawns, Baltimore shrimp, and
velvet crab, as well as local lobster and oysters, all served in the shell. The own-
ers also run the neighboring Baltimore Bay Guesthouse and the lower-priced
bistro, La Jolie Brise.
The Pier, Baltimore, County Cork. & 028/20136. Reservations required. Fixed-price dinner €30 ($36); din-
ner main courses €22–€40 ($27–$48). AE, DC, MC, V. Mar–Oct daily 6pm–midnight, Sun noon–4pm.
The Heron’s Cove SEAFOOD This is a regular port of call for locals, who
know they can count on The Heron’s Cove for excellent dining free of formal-
ity and risk. The casual, modest dining room enjoys a splendid view of a
secluded cove. The menu, while focused on local seafood, has selections for veg-
etarians and carnivores alike. The fisherman’s broth is exceptional, as are monk-
fish in red-pepper cream sauce and Dunmanus Bay scallops pan-fried with leek
and smoked bacon cream sauce. For dessert, indulge in the Russian cheesecake.
Do visit the open-for-browsing cellar of 50 to 60 international wines. Study the
labels, discuss them with other diners, and make your selection. Sue Hill, your
host, is a knowledgeable oenophile and will help out if you find yourself dead-
locked in indecision.
Signposted in the center of Goleen, County Cork. & 028/35225. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€20–€25 ($24–$30). AE, DC, MC, V. May–Oct daily noon–10pm.
M O D E R AT E
The Customs House Finds SEAFOOD This just may be the best fish
restaurant in Ireland and is certainly in the top three. Susan Holland is a truly tal-
ented chef (not to mention artist—check out her paintings on the walls) who finds
inspiration in Mediterranean ingredients but is restrained enough to heighten the
fish’s flavors without overpowering them. The blackboard menu lists mouthwater-
ing choices such as red mullet with tapenade, grilled squid with hot salsa, and John
Dory with spinach, soy, and ginger. Duck also appears on the menu (both as con-
fit and roast), though it would be a pity to dine here on anything other than fish.
Desserts, like the poached pear with roasted almond ice cream, are elegant and
simple. The dress code is smart casual, with the emphasis on smart. Children
under 12 would most likely feel like a fish out of . . . well, you know.
WEST CORK 311
50m (164 ft.) from the pier (beside the Garda Station), Baltimore, County Cork. & 028/20200. Reservations
recommended. Fixed-price 3-course dinner €25 ($30); fixed-price 4-course dinner €35 ($42). No credit cards.
Wed–Sat 7–10pm. Closed Oct to mid-Mar.
Good Things Cafe Finds CAFE Still not convinced West Cork is foodie
heaven? Check out one of our favorite new restaurant entries in this year’s guide.
Carmel Somer’s tiny, unpretentious, bare-bones bistro is all about keeping it
simple by using the freshest local produce and artisan cheeses, breads, and food-
stuffs. The result is truly amazing meals. You’ll be startled at how a humble
omelet or salmon in puff pastry manages to be the best you’ve ever tasted. For
dessert, don’t pass up on Murphy’s Ice Cream, trucked in all the way from Din-
gle, County Kerry. The perfect end to a perfect meal.
Ahakista Rd., Durrus, County Cork. & 027/61426. Lunch main courses €9–€13 ($11–$16); fixed dinner
€39 ($47). MC, V. Wed–Mon 10:30am–5pm and 6:30–8:30pm.
Mary Ann’s PUB GRUB Here is one of those darling little places for
which you’ll thank yourself for making the effort to stop by. Dating from 1844,
this rustic pub perched halfway up a hill is decorated with ships’ wheels,
lanterns, and bells—but you don’t go to Mary Ann’s for the cute decor. You go
for the superlative inspiring pub grub. The menu offers seafood salads and West
Cork cheese plates, as well as more ambitious dishes, such as scallops meunière,
sirloin steak with garlic butter, chicken Kiev, and deep-fried prawns. Weather
permitting, you can sit outside in the attractive courtyard.
Castletownshend, Skibbereen, County Cork. & 028/36146. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main
dishes €15–€20 ($18–$24). MC, V. Daily 12:30–2pm and 6–9pm. Closed holidays.
Wine Vaults INTERNATIONAL Established in 1854, this is Skibbereen’s

oldest pub and one of its most popular. The look is classic Irish rural pub, with
plenty of nooks and crannies, soft lighting, brick, woodwork, and open fires. It
is a handy place for lunch or a light meal in transit. The menu includes soups,
sandwiches on pita bread, and pizzas (the house special is topped with mush-
rooms, peppers, onions, ham, and salami). There is live traditional music or jazz
and blues nightly.
73 Bridge St., Skibbereen, County Cork. & 028/23112. All items €8–€18 ($9.65–$22). No credit cards.
Food served daily noon–9pm; music and drinks until 12:30am.
INEXPENSIVE
Adele’s Value SEAFOOD/PASTA By day, this tiny establishment is a hip
tearoom, serving up delicious baked goods, teas, and excellent sandwiches (the
ciabatta with tomato and slabs of local Gubbeen cheese is a real treat). But the
place really takes off in the evening, when the upstairs dining room opens and
Adele Connor prepares meals with his creative use of basic, local ingredients.
The menu changes daily and each dish is so enticing that it’s always a challenge
to choose: perhaps fresh mussels with angel-hair pasta and leeks, or tagliatelle
with rosemary and parsley pesto. Panzanella, a marinated salad with red peppers,
capers, and soaked bread crumbs, is a delicious summer appetizer. The atmos-
phere is casual, and families are welcome. There’s a separate nonsmoking dining
room. This place is one of the few good restaurants in Cork that won’t take a big
bite out of your budget. B&B is also available, at budget rates.
Main St., Schull, County Cork. & 028/28459. Reservations recommended. Lunch and baked goods
€10–€18 ($12–$22); dinner main courses €14–€20 ($17–$24). MC, V. Easter–June and Sept–Nov Wed–Sun
9:30am–6pm; July–Aug daily 9:30am–6pm. Closed Nov–Easter.
9
County Kerry: The Kingdom
F or many first-time travelers to this
island, Kerry is the Ireland they’ve
the famous and much-trafficked Ring
of Kerry, which traces the shores of the
imagined in their mind’s eye. To start Iveragh Peninsula—make one little
with, it’s picture-postcard gorgeous, detour from the main road, and be in
with three jagged peninsulas chock- true wilderness. The transition can be
ablock with spectacular coastal vistas startling.
and vibrant towns. Spend a bit of time Like many of Ireland’s western
here, and you’ll also see that Kerry is a counties, County Kerry has always
place of disorienting contrasts, where been an outpost of Gaelic culture.
the crassest tourist attractions coexist Poetry and music are intrinsic to the
with some of Ireland’s most spectacu- lifestyle, as is a love of the outdoors
lar scenic wonders. It’s a rugged place and sports. Gaelic football is an obses-
for the most part, some of it so rugged sion in this county, and “The King-
that it’s seldom visited and remains dom” wins more than their share of
quite pristine; Ireland’s two highest national championships. You’ll also
mountains, Carrantuohill and Mount find some of Ireland’s best golf
Brandon, are examples of such places. courses, and the fishing for salmon
You could be driving along—say, on and trout is equally hard to resist.
1 The Iveragh Peninsula

For the majority of the literally millions of annual tourists to County Kerry,
whose explorations follow the turn of a bus driver’s wheel, the Iveragh Peninsula
is synonymous with the Ring of Kerry. It’s important to realize, however, that
the Ring is a two-lane strip of road measuring roughly 178km (110 miles), trac-
ing the peninsula’s shores and missing its tip altogether, while the Iveragh Penin-
sula itself is nearly 1,813 sq. km (700 sq. miles) of wild splendor, which you’ll
notice once you get off the tourist strip. Admittedly, almost everyone who gets
this far feels compelled to “do” the Ring of Kerry; so, once it’s done, why not
take an unplanned turn, get truly lost, and let serendipity lead you to the unex-
pected and the unspoiled?
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Bus Eireann (& 064/34777; www.buseireann.ie) pro-
vides limited daily service from Killarney to Caherciveen, Waterville, Kenmare,
and other towns on the Ring of Kerry. The best way to get to the Ring is by car,
on N70 and N71. Some Killarney-based companies offer daily sightseeing tours
of the Ring (see section 2, “Killarney,” later in this chapter).
VISITOR INFORMATION Stop in at the Killarney Tourist Office, Aras
Fáilte, at the Town Centre Car Park, Beech Road, Killarney (& 064/31633;
www.killarney.ie), before you explore the area. For hours, see section 2, later in this
County Kerry
Shannon Airport
CL
C L AR
ARE

Kilrush
Limerick
River Shan n o n Tarbert
ATLANTIC Ferryport
R551
OCEAN Ballybunion
Tarbert
Mouth of the R552

Shannon
Kerry Head Listowel LII M
L MERI
E R I CK
CK
Ballyheige
N69
Ballyheige Bay R551
N21
Tralee Fenit Spa

Bay Tralee KER
K E R RY
RY
Mt Brandon Blennerville 1
R560
s
as
P Camp 2 3 ntains 8
or
nn GL E eM i s h M ou
Sliev Castlemaine N23
Ballyferriter 4
Co D I N S U L A
IN Annascaul
Dunquin Ventry
PEN R561 Farranfore Airport
6 Dingle Inch Farranfore
5 R559 Killorglin
7 ay N22
gle B
R563
Slea Head
Gt. Blasket Din 9
Caragh R562 Killarney N72
Glenbeigh Lough
rr
y
Island
Ring of K e Lough 15
Leane
Killarney National Park
N70 Carrauntoohil
Velentia Island Lough N22
H
Cahirciveen R AG LA N71 Guitane
IVE NSU R569
10 N I Kilgarvan
P E Gillycuddy's Reekys
R565 N567 Macroom
Portmagee Lough a c e r r Kenmare
R566
Currane
M
Sneem ing
of K
11 R N571
Ballinskelligs
Waterville 14
B ay Parknasilla 13
igs ive
r
Skellig ell 12
Rock s k Caherdaniel re R Lauragh
lin ma CO
C O RK
RK
l e n n tains
Ba K
a Mo u
Ca h
Bantry
Clonakilty
Skibbereen
NORTHERN
IRELAND
Dublin
REPUBLIC OF
IRELAND ATLANTIC OCEAN
COUNTY 0 10 mi
KERRY
N
0 10 km
Blennerville Windmill 2 Ionad An Bhlascaoid Mhoir

Ceardlann Craft Village 7 (The Blasket Centre) 5
Crag Cave 8 Kenmare Druid Circle 14
Derrynane House National Kenmare Heritage Centre 13
Historic Park 12 Kerry Bog Village Museum 9
Dingle Oceanworld 7 Kerry the Kingdom 1
Eask Tower 6 Skellig Experience 10
Gallarus Oratory 4 Staigue Fort 11
Gap of Dunloe 15 Tralee Steam Railway 3
313
314 C H A P T E R 9 . C O U N T RY K E R RY: T H E K I N G D O M
chapter. The Kenmare Tourist Office, Market Square, Kenmare (& 064/41233),
is open daily Easter through September from 9:15am to 5:30pm, with extended
hours in July and August. The rest of the year (Oct–Easter), it’s open Monday to
Saturday. More information is available online at www.kerrytourist.com.
THE RING OF KERRY
Undoubtedly Ireland’s most popular scenic drive, the Ring of Kerry is a 178km
(110-mile) route around the Iveragh Peninsula, a panorama of seacoast, moun-
tain, and lake-land vistas. Bicyclists usually avoid this route because the scores of
tour buses that thunder through every day in the summer aren’t always generous
about sharing the road. For the most part, the Ring follows N70 and circles the
Iveragh Peninsula; most people start and finish at the largest hub, Killarney, but
Kenmare makes for a more charming, more peaceful, and classier base. The drive
runs in either direction, but we strongly recommend a counterclockwise route
for the most spectacular views.
Although it’s possible to circle the peninsula in as little as 4 hours, the only
way to get a feel for the area and the people is to leave the main road, get out of
your car, and explore some of the inland and coastal towns. Portmagee is a
lovely seaside town, connected by a bridge to Valentia Island, which houses the
informative Skellig Heritage Centre. Caherdaniel has a museum devoted to
Daniel O’Connell, one of Ireland’s great historical figures.
The most memorable and magical site to visit on the Iveragh Peninsula is
Skellig Michael, a rocky pinnacle towering over the sea, where medieval monks
built their monastery in ascetic isolation. The crossing to the island can be
rough, so you’ll want to visit on as clear and calm a day as possible. Seabirds nest
here in abundance, and more than 20,000 pairs of gannets inhabit neighboring
Little Skellig during the summer nesting season.
Kenmare is by far the most enchanting town on the Ring of Kerry route.
Originally called Neidin (pronounced Nay-deen, meaning “little nest” in Irish),
Kenmare is indeed a little nest of verdant foliage nestled between the River
Roughty and Kenmare Bay. It’s an ideal base for Kerry sightseeing because it is
well laid out and immaculately maintained—flower boxes in the windows, lit-
ter-free sidewalks—and full of excellent restaurants and places to stay.
From Kenmare to Killarney, the Ring road takes you through a scenic moun-
tain stretch known as Moll’s Gap. Killarney is best known for the scenic beauty
surrounding the town, and in particular for the spectacular, 10,000-hectare
(25,000-acre) Killarney National Park, which includes the famous Killarney
Lakes and the scenic Gap of Dunloe. The town itself, while colorful and
bustling, has become a victim of its own success in recent years. Tourism is more
in-your-face here than perhaps anywhere else in Ireland, with generic souvenir
shops and overpriced restaurants chockablock.
Departing Killarney, follow the signs for Killorglin. When you reach this lit-
tle town, you’re on N70. You might want to stop and walk around Killorglin, a
spot that’s widely known for its annual mid-August horse, sheep, and cattle fair.
It’s officially called the Puck Fair, because local residents capture a wild goat
(symbolizing the puka or puki, a mischievous sprite) from the mountains and
enthrone it in the center of town as a sign of unrestricted merrymaking.
Continue on N70, and vistas of Dingle Bay will soon appear on your right.
Carrantuohill, at 1,041m (3,414 ft.) Ireland’s tallest mountain, is to your left.
The open bog land constantly comes into view. From it, the local residents dig
pieces of peat, or turf, to burn in their fireplaces. Formed thousands of years ago,
THE IVERAGH PENINSULA 315
Impressions of Kenmare
As I leave behind Neidin it’s like purple splashed on green
My soul is strangely fed through the winding hills ahead
She plays a melody on wind and streams for me
Won’t you remember, won’t you remember, won’t you remember me?
And we wind and climb and fall like the greatest waltz of all
Float across the floor, her sweet breath outside the door
And it’s time that I was gone across the silver tear
Won’t you remember, won’t you remember, won’t you remember me?
—Jimmy MacCarthy, Irish songwriter
the bog lands are mainly composed of decayed trees. They tend to be bumpy if
you attempt to drive over them too speedily, so do be cautious.
The Ring winds around cliffs and the edges of mountains, with nothing but
the sea below—another reason you will probably average only 48kmph (30
mph), at best. As you go along, you’ll notice the remains of many abandoned
cottages. They date from the famine years, in the mid-1840s, when the Irish
potato crop failed and millions of people starved to death or were forced to emi-
grate. This peninsula alone lost three-fourths of its population.
The next town on the Ring is Glenbeigh, a palm-tree-lined fishing resort
with a lovely duned beach called Rossbeigh Strand. You might want to stop here
or continue the sweep through the mountains and along the sea’s edge to Cahir-
civeen. From Cahirciveen, you can make a slight detour to see Valentia (which
you may also see spelled “Valencia”). The offshore island is 11km (7 miles) long
and one of Europe’s westernmost points. Connected to the mainland by a bridge
at Portmagee, this was the site from which the first telegraph cable was laid
across the Atlantic in 1866. In the 18th century, the Valentia harbor was famous
as a refuge for smugglers and privateers; it’s said that John Paul Jones, the Scot-
tish-born American naval officer in the War of Independence, also anchored
here quite often.
Head next for Waterville, an idyllic spot wedged between Lough Currane and
Ballinskelligs Bay off the Atlantic. For years it was known as the favorite retreat
of Charlie Chaplin; today it’s the home of the only Irish branch of Club Med.
If you follow the sea road north of town out to the Irish-speaking village of
Ballinskelligs, at the mouth of the bay, you can also catch a glimpse of the two
Skellig Rocks. Continuing on N70, the next point of interest is Derrynane, at
Caherdaniel, the home of Daniel O’Connell, remembered as “the Liberator” who
freed Irish Catholics from the last of the English Penal Laws in 1829. Derrynane
is now a national monument and park and a major center of Gaelic culture.
Watch for signs to Staigue Fort, about 3.2km (2 miles) off the main road.
One of the best preserved of all ancient Irish structures, this circular fort is con-
structed of rough stones without mortar of any kind. The walls are 4m (13 ft.)
thick at the base, and the diameter is about 27m (90 ft.). Not much is known
of its history, but experts think it probably dates from around 1000 B.C.
Sneem, the next village on the circuit, is a colorful little hamlet with twin
parklets. Its houses are painted in vibrant shades of blue, pink, yellow, purple,
and orange, like a little touch of the Mediterranean plunked down in Ireland.
As you continue on the Ring, the foliage becomes lusher, thanks to the warm-
ing waters and winds of the Gulf Stream. When you begin to see lots of palm
trees and other subtropical vegetation, you’ll know you are in Parknasilla, once
a favorite haunt of George Bernard Shaw.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Derrynane House National Historic Park On a 128-hectare (320-acre)
site along the Ring of Kerry coast between Waterville and Caherdaniel, this is
where Ireland’s Great Liberator, Daniel O’Connell, lived for most of his life. The
Irish government maintains the house as a museum. It’s filled with documents,
illustrations, and memorabilia related to O’Connell’s life, including a 25-minute
audiovisual display about him titled Be You Perfectly Peaceable.
Caherdaniel, County Kerry. & 066/947-5113. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25
($1.50) students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. Nov–Mar Sat–Sun 1–5pm; Apr and Oct Tues–Sun 1–5pm;
May–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 11am–7pm.
Kenmare Druid Circle On a small hill near the center of town, this large
Bronze Age druid stone circle is magnificently intact, with 15 standing stones
surrounding a dolmen tomb.
Kenmare, County Kerry.
Kenmare Heritage Centre To learn more about the delightful town of

Kenmare, the Ring of Kerry’s “little nest,” step inside this visitor center. Exhibits
recount Kenmare’s history as a planned estate town that grew up around the
mine works founded in 1670 by Sir William Petty, ancestor of the Lansdownes,
the local landlords. The center also displays locally made lace and tells the story
of the woman who originated the craft.
The Square, Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41491. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, with extended
summer hours.
Kerry Bog Village Museum This little cluster of thatched-roof cottages

shows what life was like in Kerry in the early 1800s. The museum village has a
blacksmith’s forge and house, turf-cutter’s house, laborer’s cottage, thatcher’s
dwelling, tradesman’s house, and stable and dairy house. Stacks of newly cut turf
sit piled high beside the road. There are also a football pitch and other recre-
ational facilities. The interiors are furnished with authentic pieces gathered from
all parts of Kerry.
Ring of Kerry rd. (N71), Ballycleave, Glenbeigh, County Kerry. & 066/976-9184. Admission €4.50 ($5.40)
adults, €3 ($3.60) children. AE, DC, MC, V. Mar–Nov daily 9am–6pm; Dec–Feb by appointment.
Seafari Eco-nature Cruises and Seal-Watching Trips This is the

very best way to see the sights and splendors of Kenmare Bay: onboard a 15m
(50-ft.) covered boat. The 2-hour cruises cover 16km (10 miles) and are narrated
by well-versed guides who provide information on local history, geography, and
geology. The guides frequently point out dolphins, sea otters, gray seals, herons,
oystercatchers, and kingfishers. Boats depart from the pier next to the Kenmare
suspension bridge. Reservations are recommended.
Kenmare Pier, Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/83171. www.seafariireland.com. Tickets €20 ($24) adults,
€15 ($18) students, €10 ($12) children under 12, €50 ($60) families. May–Oct 4 cruises daily.
The Skellig Experience Eleven kilometers (7 miles) off the mainland

Ring of Kerry route (R765) on Valentia Island, this fantastic attraction blends
right into the terrain, with a stark stone facade framed by grassy mounds. Inside,
through a series of displays and audiovisual presentations, the center offers a
detailed look at the area’s birds and plant life. In particular, it tells the story of
the Skellig Rocks, Skellig Michael, and Little Skellig. The experience isn’t com-
plete without the sea cruise, which circuits the islands.
Skellig Heritage Centre, Valentia Island, County Kerry. & 066/947-6306. Exhibition and audiovisual €4.40
($5.30) adults, €3.80 ($4.60) seniors and students, €2.20 ($2.65) children under 12, €10 ($12) families
(2 adults and up to 4 children); exhibition, audiovisual, and sea cruise €22 ($26) adults, €19 ($24) seniors
and students, €11 ($13) children under 12, €57 ($69) families. AE, MC, V. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Closed
Nov–Mar.
THE SKELLIG ISLANDS

A visit to these two crags rising precipitously from the sea, about 14km (8 miles)
off the coast of the Iveragh Peninsula, is sure to be one of your more memorable
experiences in Ireland. Seen from the mainland, the islands have a fantastic
aspect, seeming impossibly steep and sharp-angled. Yet it was on the highest pin-
nacle of the larger island, Skellig Michael, that a community of monks chose
to build a monastery in the 6th or 7th century. They carved steps out of the rock
to provide access from the stormy waters below. Rough seas make it inaccessible
for much of the year, but records surviving from this remote community include
the kidnap of one of the monks by the Vikings and the death of the abbot in
A.D. 823. The island later became a marriage destination for 16th-century cou-
ples after the change to the Gregorian calendar meant that they were forbidden
to get married during lent on the mainland.
You’ll start off by taking a 45-minute boat passage from the mainland. Upon
disembarking, you’ll begin a long ascent of the island using the same steps trod-
den by the monks for 6 centuries, until the monastery was abandoned in the
12th or 13th century. The monastic enclosure consists of six beehive-shaped
huts of mortarless stone construction, two oratories, and a church; there is also
a collection of carved stones that have been found on the island. The smaller of
the Skellig Islands has no space for human habitation but is home during nest-
ing season to more than 20,000 pairs of gannets.
Ferries from Valentia Island are run by Des Lavelle (& 066/947-6124),
while those from Portmagee are run by O’Keefe’s (& 066/947-7103). The
average cost is €35 ($42) per person.
SHOPPING
Many good craft and souvenir shops lie along the Ring of Kerry, but those in
Kenmare offer the most in terms of variety and quality. Kenmare shops are open
year-round, usually Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm. From May to September,
many shops remain open till 9 or 10pm, and some open on Sunday from noon
to 5 or 6pm.
Avoca Handweavers at Moll’s Gap In one of the most scenic settings, this
shop is on a high mountain pass (288m/960 ft. above sea level) between Killarney
Fun Fact Scrabble with an Irish Accent
Six Irish counties are allowable Scrabble words:

1. Cork 4. Kerry
2. Derry 5. Limerick
3. Down 6. Mayo
Source: Official Scrabble Words, International Edition
and Kenmare. It’s a branch of the famous tweed makers of Avoca, County Wick-
low, dating from 1723. The wares range from colorful hand-woven capes, jackets,
throws, and knitwear to pottery and jewelry. Chefs trained at the Ballymaloe
Cookery School staff the excellent coffee shop. Closed from November to mid-
March. Ring of Kerry rd. (N71), Moll’s Gap, County Kerry. & 064/34720.
Cleo A branch of the long-established Dublin store of the same name, this
newly expanded trendy women’s-wear shop is known for its beautiful, vibrantly
colorful tweed and linen fashions, as well as specialty items such as Kinsale
cloaks. 2 Shelbourne St., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41410.
Kenmare Bookshop This shop specializes in books on Ireland, particularly
biographies and books by Irish writers, as well as maps and guides to the sur-
rounding area. Offerings include ordinance survey maps, walking and specialist
guides, and marine charts. There are also art cards and craft items relating to the
Book of Kells. Shelbourne St., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41578.
Nostalgia In a town known for its lace, it’s a natural to stop into this shop.
It carries new and antique lace, table and bed linens, traditional teddy bears, and
accessories. Closed from January to mid-March. 27 Henry St., Kenmare, County Kerry.
& 064/41389.
Quills Woolen Market These are branches of the store of the same name in
Killarney. They’re known for Aran hand knits, Donegal tweed jackets, Irish
linen, Celtic jewelry, and hand-loomed knitwear. Market Sq. and Main St., Kenmare,
County Kerry. & 064/32277. South Sq., Sneem, County Kerry. & 064/45277.

GOLF Home to a myriad of seascapes and sand dunes, the Ring of Kerry is
known for its great golf courses, particularly Waterville Golf Links, Waterville
(& 066/947-4102; www.watervillegolflinks.ie), on the edge of the Atlantic. On
huge sand dunes, bounded on three sides by the sea, the 18-hole championship
course is one of the longest in Ireland (6,569m/7,184 yd.). Visitors are welcome.
Greens fees are €150 ($181) daily.
Other challenging 18-hole courses on the Ring include Dooks Golf Club,
Glenbeigh (& 066/976-8205; www.dooks.com), a links par-70 course on the
Ring of Kerry road, with greens fees of €48 ($58). The expanded Kenmare
Golf Club, Kenmare (& 064/41291; www.kenmaregolfclub.com), is a park-
land par-71 course; greens fees run €42 ($51) weekdays and Saturdays, and
€50 ($60) on Sundays.
WALKING Ireland’s longest low-level, long-distance path, the Kerry Way,
traverses the Ring of Kerry. The first stage, from Killarney National Park to
Glenbeigh, is inland, through wide and scenic countryside. The second stage is
a circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula, linking Cahirciveen, Waterville, Caherdaniel,
Sneem, and Kenmare with a farther inland walk along the old Kenmare Road
back to Killarney, for a total of 202km (125 miles). The route consists primarily
of paths and “green” (unsurfaced) roads, such as old driving paths, butter roads,
and routes between early Christian settlements. A leaflet outlining the route is
available from the Killarney and Kenmare tourist offices.
W H E R E T O S TAY
Very Expensive
The Park Hotel Kenmare Ensconced in palm-tree-lined garden
beside Kenmare Bay, this imposing limestone building was built at the end of
the 19th century by the Great Southern Railway as a hotel for train travelers. It
was totally restored and refurbished about 20 years ago under the masterful
ownership and management of Francis Brennan. The interior is rich in high-
ceilinged sitting rooms and lounges, crackling open fireplaces, original oil paint-
ings, tapestries, plush furnishings, and museum-worthy antiques (including an
eye-catching cistern decorated with mythological figures and supported by
gilded sea horses and dolphins).
The individually decorated guest rooms are decked out in a mix of Georgian
and Victorian furnishings and rich upholsteries. Many have four-poster or
canopy beds, hand-carved armoires, china lamps, curios, and little extra touches
like telephones in the bathroom and heated towel rails. Most rooms offer river
and mountain vistas. Amid all the elegance, this hotel exudes an intrinsically
welcoming atmosphere and service is top-notch without being stuffy. The ele-
gant dining room, with romantic views of the water and gardens, is one of the
most acclaimed hotel restaurants in Ireland, meriting a Michelin star.
Kenmare, County Kerry. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 064/41200. Fax 064/41402. www.parkkenmare.com.
46 units. €280–€410 ($337–$494) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov 30–Dec
22 and Jan 4–Feb 12. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; 18-hole golf course; tennis court; concierge;
spa and beauty treatments; room service; babysitting; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms; croquet lawn;
drawing room; joggers’ trail; salmon fishing. In room: TV, minibar, hair dryer, CD player, garment press.
Sheen Falls Lodge Everything at Sheen Falls conspires to make you

feel stress-free and pampered—the fabulous service, the faultless attention to
detail—whether you stay a night or a week. No wonder it’s a favorite getaway
for Irish and Hollywood celebrities, and no wonder Condé Nast Traveler maga-
zine voted it the number-three hotel in Europe. Originally the 18th-century
home of the Earl of Kerry, this salubrious resort sits beside a natural waterfall on
120 hectares (300 acres) of lawns and semitropical gardens where the River
Sheen meets the Kenmare Bay estuary. The public areas are graceful, with pillars
and columns, polished woodwork, open fireplaces, traditional furnishings, and
original oil paintings. The staff addresses guests by name, the bar feels like a
drawing room, and the 1,000-volume library, with its green leather sofas and
floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, feels like a fine gentlemen’s club. The guest rooms
are spacious, decorated in elegant contemporary style; each overlooks the falls
(stunning when floodlit at night) or the bay. The hotel also maintains a vintage
1922 Buick to provide local excursions for guests. It comes at a price, but this is
the perfect Irish country-house atmosphere: elegant and yet relaxed.
Kenmare, County Kerry. & 800/537-8483 in the U.S. or 064/41600. Fax 064/41386. www.sheenfallslodge.ie.
66 units. €260–€460 ($313–$554) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Jan 2–Feb 1.
Amenities: 2 restaurants (French, bistro); bar; indoor swimming pool; tennis; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam
room; concierge; room service; laundry/dry cleaning; billiard room; croquet; library; health and beauty treat-
ments; helicopter pad; horseback riding; library; private salmon fishing. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, minibar, hair
dryer, garment press, radio.
Moderate
Derrynane Hotel Perched on a precipice between the mountainous coast
and the open waters of the Atlantic, this contemporary hotel boasts one of the
Ring’s most dramatic and remote locations, next to the Derrynane National
Park and midway between Waterville and Sneem. The guest rooms are standard
but greatly enhanced by superb views from every huge window. A local guide is
available to take guests on weekend walking trips.
Off Ring of Kerry rd. (N71), Caherdaniel, County Kerry. & 800/528-1234 or 066/947-5136. Fax
066/947-5160. www.derrynane.com. 70 units. €150–€190 ($181–$229) double. Rates include service
charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed early Oct to mid-Apr. Amenities: Restaurant (interna-
tional); lounge; outdoor swimming pool; tennis court; gym; sauna/steam room; seaweed baths. In room: TV.
Iskeroon Value This is as good as it gets for this price. David and Geral-
dine Hare’s wonderfully light B&B has an arrestingly beautiful setting in a 1.8-
hectare (41⁄2-acre) tropical garden overlooking the sailboats of Derrynane
Harbour and the Skelligs beyond. And if the views don’t convince you, just step
inside. The Hares have renovated their villa (ca. 1930s) in a modern, fresh, Cape
Cod style: Think stone floors, a sea-blue-and-sand palette, baskets and assorted
objets d’art. It’s got the best of both worlds: tranquil and yet just short walk from
the beach or a lovely pub or the pier for island cruises. Breakfasts are excellent,
here, too. With only three rooms, this place gets sold out long in advance, so
book early.
Bunavalla (near pier), Caherdaniel, County Kerry. & 066/947-5119. Fax 066/947-5488. www.iskeroon.com.
3 units, all with private bathroom. €120 ($145) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast.
MC, V. Closed Oct–Apr. Amenities: Lounge. In room: TV.
Kenmare Bay Here’s a place that offers good value for money, so long as
you prioritize a good view over outstanding decor. On a hillside at the edge of
town, just off the main road that winds around the Ring of Kerry, this modern
hotel was recently expanded and upgraded. The guest rooms are furnished com-
fortably, if generically, with blond-wood furnishings and tweedy or quilted
upholsteries, and nearly all of their large windows afford good views of the
mountainous landscape.
Sneem Rd., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41300. Fax 064/41541. 136 units. €100–€140 ($127–$150)
double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: Restau-
rant (international); 2 bars. In room: TV.
Sallyport House This wonderful country-house B&B won the Irish

Automobile Association’s “Guest Accommodation of the Year” award in 2000.
It’s got a great location, just 2 minutes on foot into Kenmare, yet set on exten-
sive, well-kept grounds that run down to the Kenmare River. The brother-and-
sister team of John and Helen Arthur run this handsome manor, which has a
sophisticated, uncluttered, and luxurious feel. The spacious, individually deco-
rated guest rooms are furnished with well-chosen antiques, including very large
beds and exceptionally grand bathrooms. Each room has a striking feature—
extradeep window seats that beg you to take in mountain views, an enormous
king-size four-poster bed, or perhaps a lovely river view.
Glengarriff Rd., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/42066. Fax 0646/42067. www.sallyporthouse.com. 5 units.
€150 ($181) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Nov–Mar.
Amenities: Lounge; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Shelburne Lodge Yet another fabulous, reasonably priced place to ink

into your travel journal. This time it’s a Georgian farmhouse that the owners
Maura and Tom Foley have transformed into one of the most original, stylish,
and comfortable B&Bs on the island. Every room in the house has polished
wood parquet floors, truly beautiful (and beautifully arranged) antique furnish-
ings, contemporary artwork, and boldly colored walls that go pow. The guest
rooms are all large and gorgeously appointed, with particularly sumptuous bath-
rooms (heated towel rails and handmade mirrors). The breakfasts are nothing
short of decadent, and Maura and Tom really take care of you throughout your
stay.
Killowen, Cork Rd., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41013. Fax 0646/42135. 9 units. €100–€150
($120–$181) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Dec to mid-Mar. Ameni-
ties: Tennis court; drawing room. In room: TV.
Inexpensive
Hawthorn House Value On a quiet side street in Kenmare, this excellent-
value town-house B&B has attracted a huge following over the years. Mary
O’Brien is a congenial, gifted hostess, and her hospitality sets the tone for your
stay. Her guest rooms all have a pretty, feminine feel, with floral bedspreads and
pastel walls. Rooms here may be slightly smaller than you’d find at rural B&Bs
that were built for this purpose, but they are certainly comfortable. Breakfasts
are bountiful and delicious.
Shelbourne St., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41035. Fax 064/41932. www.hawthornhousekenmare.com.
8 units. €80–€90 ($96–$108) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Christ-
mas. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Hillcrest The guest rooms of this Georgian-style bungalow are spacious and
cheerful, with pastel walls offset by bright contemporary floral fabrics, painted
white furniture, and dark-stained window frames. Ask for one of the front rooms,
which enjoy views of the nearby hills. This is a pleasant bargain on the Ring.
Killarney Rd., .5km (1⁄3 mile) outside of Killorglin town, County Kerry. & 066/976-1552. Fax 066/976-1996.
5 units. €53 ($64) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Jan–Mar. In room:
WHERE TO DINE
Expensive
d’Arcy’s CONTINENTAL In a two-story stone house at the top end of
Kenmare, this restaurant has a homey atmosphere with a big open fireplace. The
owner, Pat Gath, and head chef, Brendan Byrne, make a great team, and this
place is a standout even in this restaurant-rich town. Using fresh local ingredi-
ents, the menu includes classics such as peppered filet of beef with crispy onions
and baked salmon with rosemary butter. Byrne’s penchant for experimenting
with global flavors is evident in dishes like pan-fried John Dory served with salsa
or the Kenmare Bay mussels that come swimming in a coconut-and-lime broth.
The homemade breads and desserts are also excellent.
Main St., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41589. Reservations recommended. 2-course fixed dinner €26
($31); 3-course fixed-price dinner €31 ($37); main courses €20–€28 ($24–$34). MC, V. Daily 6:30–10pm.
Closed Jan to mid-Mar.
Lime Tree MODERN CONTINENTAL Innovative cuisine is the focus at

this restaurant, in an 1821 landmark renovated schoolhouse next to the Park
Hotel. Paintings by local artists line the stone walls, and the menu offers such
dishes as goat’s-cheese potato cake with balsamic glaze, oak-planked wild
salmon, filet of Irish beef with colcannon (mashed potatoes with spring onions),
and oven-roasted Kerry lamb.
Shelbourne Rd., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41225. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€16–€25 ($19–$30). MC, V. Apr–Nov daily 6:30–10pm.
Mulcahy’s MODERN/FUSION This place is a wonderful example

of why Kenmare has become one of Ireland’s premier foodie towns. Bruce
Mulcahy’s restaurant is an out-of-the-box experience, from the moment you
walk into the postmodern, avant-garde interior through the meal itself, a cel-
ebration of imaginative, but serious, fusion cooking. This is that rare combi-
nation of style and substance, folks. Starters might include anything from pea
soup to sushi. Zingy Asian influences may come to bear on European classics,
but everything is done with just the right amount of restraint. For dessert, try
the lemon tart with Amaretto cream. Good service, buzzy clientele, fabulous
dining experience.
16 Henry St., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/42383. Reservations recommended. Main courses €17–€28
($20–$34). MC, V. June–Sept daily 6–10pm, Sun noon–3pm; Oct–May Thurs–Mon 6:15–10pm. Closed 2
weeks in Nov.
The Vestry MODERN IRISH Here’s one of the most atmospheric restau-
rants we know. As its name implies, this building is an 18th-century Church of
Ireland that’s been wonderfully restored. In 1993 it was tastefully converted into
a restaurant, retaining much of its original decor, including many fixtures, and
then renovated a decade later by its current owners, David and Carol Hillier.
David has expanded the modern Irish menu, highlighting fresh local seafood
and produce, to include more exotic items such as kangaroo, ostrich, and wild
boar.
Ring of Kerry rd. (N71), on Kenmare Bay about 6.5km (4 miles) west of Kenmare, Templenoe, Kenmare, County
Kerry. & 064/41958. www.neidin.net/vestry. Reservations recommended. Main courses €19–€22
($23–$27). MC, V. June–Aug daily 12:30–9pm; mid-Mar to May and Sept to mid-Oct daily 6–9pm. Closed
mid-Oct to mid-Mar.
Moderate
The Blue Bull TRADITIONAL IRISH Sneem is so small that if you blink
as you pass through it, you’d miss it completely. Yet it has five good pubs, and
this one, in particular, serves excellent food. With a blue straw bull’s head rest-
ing over the doorway, this old place has long been a favorite on the Ring of Kerry
route. Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber even called it the best bar restaurant in the
world. There are three small rooms, each with an open fireplace and walls lined
with old prints of County Kerry scenes and people, plus a sky-lit conservatory
room in the back. Traditional Irish fare, like smoked salmon and Irish stew,
shares the menu with such dishes as salmon stuffed with spinach, Valencia scal-
lops in brandy, and chicken Kiev. There’s traditional Irish entertainment most
evenings.
South Sq., Ring of Kerry rd. (N70), Sneem, County Kerry. & 064/45382. Reservations recommended. Main
courses €10–€20 ($12–$24). AE, MC, V. Bar food daily year-round 11am–8pm. Restaurant Mar–Oct daily
6–10pm.
Packie’s BISTRO If you’re looking for a stylish place to have a great meal
that won’t break the bank, this little place is it. There’s always a buzz here, and
the smart crowd fits in perfectly with the bistro look—colorful window boxes,
slate floor, stone walls filled with contemporary art, and dark-oak tables and
chairs. Everyone comes for the food, and chef-owner Martin Hallissey is known
for never serving a bad meal (having seamlessly taken up the reigns from the pre-
vious owner). His menu includes tried-and-true favorites such as Irish lamb stew
with thyme and parsley, delicious potato pancakes, seafood sausages in beurre
blanc, and crab claws in garlic butter. Desserts are terrific, too.
Henry St., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41508. Reservations recommended. Main courses €12–€30
($14–$36). MC, V. Mid-Mar to Dec Tues–Sat 6–10pm (also Mon 6–10pm in summer). Closed Jan to mid-Mar.
Inexpensive
Purple Heather Finds IRISH This lovely little eatery is the place to lunch
in Kenmare. The food is all about tearoom classics with a gourmet twist—wild
smoked salmon or prawn salad, smoked trout pâté, vegetarian omelets, and Irish
cheese platters, as well as homemade soups.
Henry St., Kenmare, County Kerry. & 064/41016. All items €4–€17 ($4.60–$21). No credit cards. Mon–Sat
11am–7pm. Closed Sun and bank holidays.
KILLARNEY 323
2 Killarney
Killarney is 135km (84 miles) SW of Shannon, 309km (192 miles) SW of Dublin, 87km (54 miles) W of Cork,
111km (69 miles) SW of Limerick, and 193km (120 miles) SW of Galway
Killarney is the busiest beehive of tourism in Ireland—the Grand Central Sta-
tion of the southwest, with all the positive and negative connotations that this
implies. The town becomes one giant traffic jam of battling tour buses every
summer, and a mecca for pushy jaunting-car (horse-and-buggy) drivers. The
locals are well practiced at dispensing a professional brand of Irish charm, and
accommodations and restaurant prices are hiked up to capitalize on the hordes
descending from the motor coaches. If that’s not your scene, it’s easy enough to
resist Killarney’s gravitational pull and instead explore the incredibly picturesque
hinterlands that border the town on all sides. You might sneak into town at some
point to sample the best of what this tourist megalopolis has to offer.
It’s important to remember that the reason Killarney draws millions of visi-
tors a year has nothing to do with the town. It’s all about the valley in which the
town is nestled, a landscape of lakes and mountains that’s so truly spectacular
that Brendan Behan once said, “even an ad man would be ashamed to eulogize
it.” And entering these wonders is ever so easy. Walk from the town car park
toward the cathedral, and turn left into the national park. In a matter of min-
utes, you’ll see the reason for all the fuss. During the summer, the evenings are
long, the twilight is often indescribable, and you needn’t share the lanes. Apart
from deer and locals, the park is all yours until dark.
The park’s three lakes are Killarney’s main attraction. The first, the Lower
Lake, is sometimes called “Lough Leane” or “Lough Lein,” which means “the
lake of learning.” It’s the largest, more than 6.5km (4 miles) long, and is dotted
with 30 small islands. The second lake is aptly called the “Middle Lake” or
“Muckross Lake,” and the third simply “Upper Lake.” Upper Lake, the smallest,
is full of storybook islands covered with a variety of trees—evergreens, cedars of
Lebanon, juniper, holly, and mountain ash.
The lakes and the surrounding woodlands are part of the 65-sq.-km (25-
sq.-mile) Killarney National Park. The ground is a soft carpet of moss and the
air fragrant with wildflowers. Cars are banned from most of the ferny trails, so
take a hike or hire a “jarvey,” an old-fashioned horse-and-buggy that’s a holdover
from the days when the Victorians waxed poetic about Killarney and brought it
to the attention of the world. Found within the park’s limits are two major
estates, Muckross and Knockreer, and the remains of major medieval abbeys
and castles. A profusion of foliage, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias,
camellias, hydrangeas, and tropical ferns, blossoms in season. At almost every
turn, you’ll see Killarney’s own botanical wonder, the arbutus, or strawberry tree,
plus eucalyptus, redwoods, and native oak.
The most noteworthy of Killarney’s islands is Innisfallen, or “Fallen’s Island,”
which seems to float peacefully in the Lower Lake. You can reach it by rowboat,
available for rental at Ross Castle. St. Fallen founded a monastery here in the 7th
century, and it flourished for 1,000 years. It’s said that Brian Boru, the great Irish
chieftain, and St. Brendan the Navigator were educated here. From 950 to 1320,
the “Annals of Innisfallen,” a chronicle of early Irish history, was written at the
monastery; it’s now in the Bodleian Library at Oxford University. Traces of an
11th-century church and a 12th-century priory can still be seen today.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Aer Lingus offers flights from Dublin into Kerry
County Airport, Farranfore, County Kerry (& 066/976-4644; www.kerry
airport.ie), about 16km (10 miles) north of Killarney. Ryanair
(www.ryanair.com) flies direct from London (Stansted) to Kerry, and Aer Arann
(www.aerarann.com) flies to Kerry from Luton and Manchester.
Irish Rail trains from Dublin, Limerick, Cork, and Galway arrive daily at the
Killarney Railway Station (& 064/31067; www.irishrail.ie), Railway Road, off
East Avenue Road.
Bus Eireann operates regularly scheduled service into Killarney from all parts
of Ireland. The bus depot (& 064/34777; www.buseireann.ie) is adjacent to the
train station at Railway Road, off East Avenue Road.
Kerry folk like to say that all roads lead to Killarney, and at least a half-dozen
major national roads do. They include N21 and N23 from Limerick, N22 from
Tralee, N22 from Cork, N72 from Mallow, and N70 from the Ring of Kerry
and West Cork.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Killarney Tourist Office, Aras Fáilte, is at
the Town Centre Car Park, Beech Road (& 064/31633). It’s open October to
May, Monday to Saturday 9:15am to 5:15pm; June and September daily 9am
to 6pm; July to August daily 9am to 8pm. During low season, the office occa-
sionally closes for lunch from 1 to 2pm. It offers many helpful booklets, includ-
ing the Tourist Trail walking-tour guide and the Killarney Area Guide, with
maps.
Useful local publications include Where: Killarney, a quarterly magazine dis-
tributed free at hotels and guesthouses. It is packed with current information on
tours, activities, events, and entertainment.
TOWN LAYOUT Killarney is small, with a full-time population of approxi-
mately 7,000. The town is built around one central thoroughfare, Main Street,
which changes its name to High Street at midpoint. The principal offshoots of
Main Street are Plunkett Street, which becomes College Street, and New Street,
which, as its name implies, is still growing. The Deenagh River edges the west-
ern side of town, and East Avenue Road rims the eastern side. It’s all very walk-
able in an hour or two.
The busiest section of town is at the southern tip of Main Street, where it
meets East Avenue Road. Here the road curves and heads southward out to the
Muckross road and the entrance to Killarney National Park.
GETTING AROUND Killarney Town is so small and compact that there is
no local bus service; the best way to get around is on foot. To see the best of
Killarney Town, follow the signposted “Tourist Trail,” encompassing the high-
lights of the main streets and attractions. It takes about 2 hours to complete the
walk. A booklet outlining the trail is available at the tourist office.
Taxi cabs line up at the rank on College Square (& 064/31331). You can
also phone for a taxi from Killarney Taxi (& 064/30444), Dero’s Taxi Service
(& 064/31251), or O’Connell Taxi (& 064/31654).
In Killarney Town it’s best to park your car and walk. Most hotels and guest-
houses offer free guest parking. If you must park on the street, buy a parking disc
and display it on your car; parking costs €1 ($1.15) per hour, and hotels and
shops sell discs. You’ll need a car to drive from town to Killarney National Park
on the Muckross and Kenmare road (N71).
Killarney

1 2 Information i N

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Killa
Tralee R
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Byp
ass
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Rock Rd.
St. Mar
New Rd. St. Anne’

s Rd.
Deenagh
High St.
Lewis Rd.
Port Rd.
Bishop’s Pa
10
ill Park Rd.
River
Fair H
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Colle
Main St
4
New St. Station Station

3 ral
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Ca lace Shopping Plunke 9
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Woodla
Muckro
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Ross R
5
Lower 7
Mill Rd.
8
Lake

Loreto Rd.
Crag Cave 1
Kennedy’s Animal, Bird and Pet Farm 9
NORTHERN
IRELAND Killarney National Park 6
Knockreer Estate 2
Dublin Muckross House, Gardens, and Farms 7
REPUBLIC Museum of IrishTransport 8
OF IRELAND
Ross Castle 4
St. Mary’s Cathedral 3
Killarney
St. Mary’s Church of Ireland 5
If you need to rent a car in Killarney, contact Avis, the Glebe Arcade (& 064/
35544; www.avis.ie), Budget, c/o International Hotel, Kenmare Place (& 064/
34341; www.budget.ie), Hertz, 28 Plunkett St. (& 064/34126; www.hertz.ie),
or Randles Bros., Muckross Road (& 066/64666).
Horse-drawn jaunting cars (light, two-wheeled vehicles), also known as “jar-
veys,” line up at Kenmare Place in Killarney Town. They offer rides to Killarney
National Park sites and other scenic areas. Depending on the time and distance,
prices range from €16 to €40 ($18–$46) per jaunting car (up to four persons).
(For details, see “Organized Tours,” below.)
FAST FACTS If you need a drugstore, try O’Sullivans Pharmacy, 81 New St.
(& 064/35866), or Donal Sheahan, 34 Main St. (& 064/31113).
In an emergency, dial & 999. The Killarney District Hospital is on St.
Margaret’s Road (& 064/31076). The Killarney Garda Station is on New
Road (& 064/31222).
The Killarney Public Library, on Rock Road (& 064/32972), provides

Internet access from its bank of computers.
If you need to do your laundry, head for the Gleeson Launderette, Brewery
Lane, off College Square (& 064/33877).
Where: Killarney, a quarterly magazine, is chock-full of helpful, up-to-date
information for visitors; it is distributed free at top hotels and guesthouses.
The Killarney Post Office, New Street (& 064/31051), is open Monday
and Wednesday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, Tuesday 9:30am to 5:30pm.
WHAT TO SEE & DO IN KILLARNEY
T H E T O P AT T R A C T I O N S
The town of Killarney sits right on the doorstep of Killarney National Park ,
out Kenmare road (N71), 10,000 hectares (25,000 acres) of natural beauty.
You’ll find three storied lakes—the Lower Lake (or Lough Leane), the Middle
Lake (or Muckross Lake), and the Upper Lake—myriad waterfalls, rivers,
islands, valleys, mountains, bogs, woodlands, and lush foliage and trees, includ-
ing oak, arbutus, holly, and mountain ash. Large areas of the park are infested
with rhododendron bushes, which have grown rampantly to the delight of visi-
tors but the dismay of park rangers, because these runaway rhododendrons
thwart the growth of indigenous plant life. There’s also a large variety of wildlife,
including a rare herd of red deer. You can’t explore the park by car, so plan on
hiking, biking, or hiring a horse-drawn jaunting car. The park offers four nature
trails along the lakeshore.
There’s access from several points along the Kenmare road (N71). The main
entrance is at Muckross House, where a visitor center features a restaurant and
background exhibits on the park and a film titled Mountain, Wood, Water. Call
& 064/31440 for more information on the park. Admission is free, and it’s
open in all daylight hours year-round.
Amid mountains and lake lands, the winding, rocky, incredibly scenic Gap of
Dunloe is about 9.7km (6 miles) west of Killarney. The route through the
gap passes a kaleidoscope of craggy rocks, massive cliffs, meandering streams, and
deep gullies. The road ends at Upper Lake. One of the best ways to explore the
gap is by bicycle (see “Bicycling,” under “Sports & Outdoor Pursuits,” later in this
chapter). Horse fanciers may want to take one of the excursions offered by
Castlelough Tours, 7 High St. (& 064/31115), Corcoran’s Tours, Kilcummin
(& 064/36666), Dero’s Tours, 22 Main St. (& 064/31251 or 064/31567), or
Tangney Tours, Kinvara House, Muckross Road (& 064/3358). Combination
horse/boat tours cost €20 ($24) per person. If you’d rather have someone else han-
dle the horse, you can take an 11km (7-mile) jaunting-car tour. Excursions go
from Kate Kearney’s Cottage through the Gap of Dunloe to Lord Brandon’s Cot-
tage and back.
Knockreer Estate The house isn’t open to the public, but the gardens
offer lovely views of the Lower Lake. Once the home of Lord Kenmare, the
estate has a turn-of-the-20th-century house, a pathway along the River
Deenagh, and gardens that mix 200-year-old trees with flowering cherries, mag-
nolias, and azaleas. Main access to Knockreer is through Deenagh Lodge Gate,
opposite the cathedral, in town.
Cathedral Place, off New St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31440. Free admission to gardens. Daily dur-
ing daylight hours.
KILLARNEY 327
Muckross House & Gardens The focal point of the Middle Lake
and, in many ways, of the entire national park, is the Muckross Estate, often
called “the jewel of Killarney.” It consists of a gracious ivy-covered Victorian
mansion, Muckross House, and its elegant surrounding gardens. Dating from
1843, the 20-room Muckross House has been converted into a museum of
County Kerry folk life, showcasing locally carved furniture, prints, maps, paint-
ings, and needlework. Imported treasures like Oriental screens, Venetian mir-
rors, Chippendale chairs, Turkish carpets, and curtains woven in Brussels are on
display. Also on-site are a restaurant and craft workshops, where local artisans
demonstrate traditional trades such as bookbinding, weaving, and pottery. The
adjacent mature gardens, known for their fine collection of rhododendrons and
azaleas, are also worth exploring.
The ruin of the 15th-century Muckross Abbey, founded about 1448 and
burned by Cromwell’s troops in 1652, is also near the house. The abbey’s cen-
tral feature is a vaulted cloister around a courtyard that contains a huge yew tree,
said to be as old as the abbey itself.
Kenmare rd. (N71), Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31440. www.muckross-house.ie. Admission €5.50
($6.60) adults, €4.25 ($5.10) seniors, €2.25 ($2.70) students and children, €14 ($17) families. July–Aug
daily 9am–7pm; mid-Mar to June and Sept–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov to mid-Mar daily 9am–6pm.
Muckross Traditional Farms Kids Located near the Muckross House

estate, this 28 hectare (70-acre) park is home to displays of traditional farm life
and artisans’ shops. The farmhouses and buildings are so authentically detailed
that visitors feel they are dropping in on working farms and lived-in houses. The
animals and household environments are equally fascinating for children and
adults, making for a great family outing.
You’ll be able to watch sowing and harvesting or potato picking and hay mak-
ing, depending on the season. Farmhands work in the fields and tend the animals,
while the blacksmith, carpenter, and wheelwright ply their trades in the old man-
ner. Women draw water from the wells and cook meals in traditional kitchens with
authentic utensils, crockery, and household items. Note: The combination ticket
allows you to visit Muckross House for €2.50 ($2.90) extra per person.
Kenmare rd. (N71), Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31440. www.muckross-house.ie. Admission €5.50
($6.60) adults, €4.25 ($5.10) seniors, €2.25 ($2.70) students and children, €14 ($17) families. Combination
ticket with Muckross House €8.25 ($9.95) adults, €6.25 ($7.55) seniors, €3.75 ($4.50) students and chil-
dren, €21 ($25) families. Mid-Mar to Apr and Oct Sat–Sun 1–6pm; May daily 1–6pm; June–Sept daily
10am–7pm. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.
Ross Castle Newly restored, this 15th-century fortress sits on the edge of
the Lower Lake, 3.2km (2 miles) outside Killarney Town. Built by the
O’Donoghue chieftains, the castle distinguished itself in 1652 as the last strong-
hold in Munster to surrender to Cromwell’s forces. All that remains today is a
tower house, surrounded by a fortified bawn (walled garden) with rounded tur-
rets. The tower has been furnished in the style of the late 16th and early 17th
centuries, and offers a magnificent view of the lakes and islands from its top.
Access is by guided tour only. A lovely lakeshore walk stretches for 3.2km (2
miles) between Killarney and the castle. Lake cruises are run from the castle (see
“Boat Tours,” below), including boats to Innisfallen Island , home to the
ruins of a 7th-century monastery and a 12th-century oratory.
Ross Rd., off Kenmare rd. (N71), Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/35851. Admission €5 ($5.75) adults, €3.50
($4) seniors, €2 ($2.30) students and children, €11 ($13) families. Mar–May daily 9:30am–4:45pm;
June–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing. Closed
Nov–Feb.
St. Mary’s Cathedral Officially known as the Catholic Church of St. Mary
of the Assumption, this limestone cathedral is the town’s most impressive build-
ing. Designed in the Gothic Revival style by Augustus Pugin, it’s cruciform in
shape. Construction began in 1842, was interrupted by the famine years, and
concluded in 1855. The magnificent central spire was added in 1912. The entire
edifice was extensively renovated in 1972–73. It’s at the edge of town, on the far
end of New Street.
Cathedral Place, off Port Rd., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31014. Free admission; donations welcome.
Daily 10:30am–6pm.
M O R E AT T R A C T I O N S
Crag Cave Believed to be more than a million years old, these limestone
caves were discovered and first explored in 1983. Guides accompany you
3,753m (12,510 ft.) into the passage on a well-lit tour revealing some of the
largest stalactites in Europe. Exhibits, a craft shop, a children’s play area, and a
restaurant are on the premises, 24km (15 miles) north of Killarney.
Off Limerick rd. (N21), Castleisland, County Kerry. & 066/7141244. www.cragcave.com. Admission €6.50
($7.85) adults, €5.50 ($6.60) seniors and students, €4 ($4.80) children over 6, €20 ($24) families (up to 4
children). Mid-Mar to June and Sept–Oct daily 10am–6pm; July–Aug 10am–7pm.
Kennedy’s Animal, Bird and Pet Farm Kids At this 30-hectare (75-acre)
dairy and sheep farm surrounded by mountain vistas, you’ll see cows being
milked, piglets being fed, and peacocks strutting their stuff. Horse-drawn
machinery is on display.
9.7km (6 miles) east of Killarney, off the main Cork rd. (N22), Glenflesk, Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/54054.
Admission €6 ($7.50). Price includes pony ride for children. May–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Closed Nov–Apr.
Museum of Irish Transport This museum presents a unique collection of

vintage and classic cars, motorcycles, bicycles, carriages, and fire engines. It
includes an 1825 hobby-horse bicycle; a 1907 Silver Stream, the only model ever
built; a 1904 Germain, one of four remaining in the world; a 1910 Wolseley
Siddeley once driven by William Butler Yeats; and an ill-fated De Lorean, a
futuristic, stainless-steel car manufactured during its short life at a plant in Ire-
land. Lining the walls are early motoring and cycling periodicals, and license
plates from all over the world.
E. Avenue Rd., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34677. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors and
students, €2 ($2.40) children, €12 ($14) families. Apr–May and Sept–Oct daily 11am–5pm; June–Aug daily
10am–6pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
St. Mary’s Church It’s commonly believed that St. Mary’s, an 1870 neo-
Gothic church, stands on the site of the original “Church of the Sloe Woods”
(in Irish, Cill Airne—the Anglicization of which is Killarney). It’s in the heart of
town, across from the tourist office.
Church Place, Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31832. Free admission; donations welcome. Daily
9:30am–5pm.
ORGANIZED TOURS
In addition to Killarney’s main sights, some bus tours also venture into the two
prime scenic areas nearby: the Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula. From May to
September, tours are offered daily; prices range from €18 to €23 ($22–$28) per
person. The following companies offer tours outside Killarney: Bus Eireann, Bus
Depot, Railway Road, off East Avenue Road (& 064/34777; www.buseireann.ie),
Castlelough Tours, 7 High St. (& 064/363499), Corcoran’s Chauffeur Tours,
KILLARNEY 329
8 College St. (& 064/36666; www.corcorantours.com), and Dero’s Tours,

22 Main St. (& 064/31251 or 064/31567; www.derostours.com).
Bus Tours
To get your bearings of the Killarney environs, consider one of these sightseeing
tours:
Dero’s Tours Besides showing off Killarney’s lakes from the best vantage
points, this 3-hour tour takes you to Aghadoe, the Gap of Dunloe, Ross Castle,
Muckross House and Gardens, and Torc Waterfall.
7 Main St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31251 or 064/31567. Tour €15 ($18). May–Sept daily at
10:30am; schedules vary.
Gap of Dunloe This tour takes you through the spectacularly scenic Gap of
Dunloe and includes a boat tour of the Killarney lakes.
Gap of Dunloe Tours, 7 High St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/30200. www.gapofdunloetours.com. Tour
€25 ($30). May–Sept; call for hours and reservations.
Jaunting-Car Tours
If you enjoy walking or bicycling, just say no to the numerous drivers who will
inevitably offer their services as you make your way around the Killarney lakes.
The quaint horse-driven buggies are one of the main features of the landscape. If
you decide to give them a try, keep in mind that jaunting-car rates are set and care-
fully monitored by the Killarney Urban District Council. Current rates, all based
on four persons to a jaunting car, run roughly from €20 ($24) per person. The
price depends on the destinations, which include Ross Castle, Muckross House
and Gardens, Torc Waterfall, Muckross Abbey, Dinis Island, and Kate Kearney’s
Cottage, gateway to the Gap of Dunloe. To arrange a tour in advance, contact
Tangney Tours, Kinvara House, Muckross Road, Killarney (& 064/33358).
Boat Tours
There is nothing quite like seeing the sights from a boat on the lakes of Killar-
ney. Two companies operate regular boating excursions, with full commentary.
M.V. Lily of Killarney Tours Departing from the pier at Ross Castle, this
enclosed water bus cruises the lakes for just over an hour. Make reservations.
Old Weir Lodge, Muckross Rd., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31068. Tour €8 ($9.65) adults, €4 ($4.80)
children, €20 ($24) families. Apr–Oct 10:30am, noon, 1:45, 3:15, and 4:30pm.
M.V. Pride of the Lakes Tours This enclosed boat offers daily sailings from the
pier at Ross Castle. The trip lasts just over an hour, and reservations are suggested.
Scotts Gardens, Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/32638. Tour €8 ($9.65) adults, €4 ($4.80) children, €20
($24) families. Apr–Oct 11am, 12:30, 2:30, 4, and 5:15pm.
SHOPPING
Shopping hours are usually Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, but from May
through September or October, most stores are open every day until 9 or 10pm.
Almost all stores carry Kerry Glass products, a unique Killarney-made souvenir.
Although there are more souvenir and craft shops in Killarney than you can
shake a shillelagh at, here are a few of the best:
Anu Design This little shop specializes in jewelry, stationery, and clothing
with Celtic design imprints and engravings inspired by the original art of New-
grange, the Book of Kells, and other historic symbols. The items range from T-
shirts and art cards to stone, brass, ceramics, bronze, and silver jewelry. 8 Main St.,
Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34799.
Brian De Staic Considered by many to be Ireland’s leading gold- and silver-

smith, Brian de Staic specializes in Celtic jewelry, handcrafted and engraved with
ancient Celtic symbols or the letters of the Ogham alphabet, an ancient Irish
form of writing dating from the 3rd century. His collection includes pendants,
bracelets, earrings, cuff links, brooches, and tie clips. Hours are Monday to Sat-
urday from 9am to 6pm. 18 High St., Killarney. & 064/33822. www.briandestaic.ie.
Christy’s Irish Stores A branch of the highly successful County Cork–based
enterprise, this large store occupies a beautiful shop front on the corner of Plun-
kett Street in the center of town. The wares range from hand-knit or hand-
loomed sweaters to tweeds, crystal, china, pottery, and souvenirs of all sizes,
shapes, and prices. 10 Main St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/33222.
Frank Lewis Gallery This gallery shows and sells a variety of contemporary
and traditional paintings, sculptures, and photographic work—much of it with
a Kerry theme—by some of Ireland’s most acclaimed emerging artists. It’s on
one of Killarney’s enchanting lanes, in a restored artisan’s dwelling near the post
office. 6 Bridewell Lane, Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34843.
Killarney Art Gallery This shop-front gallery features original paintings by
leading Irish artists, from the Killarney area and elsewhere, as well as art supplies,
Irish prints, and engravings. 4 Plunkett St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34628.
Killarney Bookshop Stop at this shop for books and maps on the history,
legends, and lore of Killarney and Kerry. It also stocks good maps of the area and
other books of Irish and international interest. The mail-order catalog is avail-
able on request. 32 Main St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34108.
Mucros Craft Centre Located on the grounds of the famous Muckross
House, this studio-cum-shop carries on many County Kerry craft traditions
and features an on-premises weaver’s workshop as well as a working pottery.
There is also a wide selection of quality crafts from all over Ireland and a sky-lit
cafeteria overlooking the walled garden area. Muckross House, Muckross Rd., Killarney
& 064/31440.
Quill’s Woollen Market This is one of the best spots in town for hand-knit
sweaters of all colors, sizes, and types, plus tweeds, mohair, and sheepskins.
There are also branches in Sneem and Kenmare on the Ring of Kerry, in Cork
City, and at Ballingeary, County Cork (the original shop). 1 High St., Killarney,
County Kerry. & 064/32277.
Serendipity The shelves of this tidy shop feature a wide range of unusual
crafts from local artisans, such as hand-thrown pottery from the likes of
Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce, Jerpoint glass, and handcrafted jewelry. 15
College St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31056.

BICYCLING Killarney National Park, with its many lakeside and forest
pathways, trails, and byways, is a paradise for bikers. Various vehicles are avail-
able for rent, from 21-speed touring bikes and mountain bikes to tandems.
Rental charges average €13 ($16) per day, €70 ($84) per week. Bicycles can be
rented from David O’Sullivan’s Cycles, Bishop Lane, New Street (& 064/
31282). Most shops are open year-round daily 9am to 6pm, until 8 or 9pm in
the summer.
One great ride beginning in Killarney takes you through the Gap of Dunloe
along a dirt forest road, where you’ll see some of the best mountain scenery in
the area. It can be made into a 56km (35-mile) loop if you return on N71.
KILLARNEY 331
FISHING Fishing for salmon and brown trout in Killarney’s unpolluted lakes
and rivers is a big attraction. Brown-trout fishing is free on the lakes, but a per-
mit is necessary for the rivers Flesk and Laune. A trout permit costs €4 to €14
($4.80–$17) per day.
Salmon fishing anywhere in Ireland requires a license; the cost is €10 ($12) per
day, €20 ($24) for 21 days. In addition, some rivers also require a salmon permit,
which costs €10 to €14 ($12–$17) per day. Permits and licenses can be obtained
at the Fishery Office at the Knockreer Estate Office, New Street (& 064/31246).
For fishing tackle, bait, rod rental, and other fishing gear, as well as permits
and licenses, try O’Neill’s, 6 Plunkett St. (& 064/31970). The shop also
arranges the hire of boats and ghillies (fishing guides) for €80 ($96) per day on
the Killarney Lakes, leaving from Ross Castle.
GOLF Visitors are always welcome at the twin 18-hole championship courses
of the Killarney Golf & Fishing Club, Killorglin Road, Fossa (& 064/31034;
www.killarney-golf.com), 4.8km (3 miles) west of the town center. Widely
praised as one of the most scenic golf settings in the world, these courses, known
as “Killeen” and “Mahony’s Point,” are surrounded by lake and mountain vistas.
Greens fees are €80 ($96) weekdays and €85 ($102) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING Many trails in the Killarney area are suitable for
horseback riding. Hiring a horse costs about €20 ($24) per hour at Killarney
Riding Stables, N72, Ballydowney (& 064/31686), and Rocklands Stables,
Rockfield, Tralee Road (& 064/32592). Lessons and weeklong trail rides can
also be arranged.
WALKING Killarney is ideal for hiking. On the outskirts of town, the Kil-
larney National Park offers four signposted nature trails. The Mossy Woods
Nature Trail starts near Muckross House, by Muckross Lake, and rambles
2.4km (1.5 miles) through yew woods along low cliffs. Old Boat House Nature
Trail begins at the 19th-century boathouse below Muckross Gardens and leads
.8km (half a mile) around a small peninsula by Muckross Lake. Arthur Young’s
Walk (4.8km/3 miles) starts on the road to Dinis, traverses natural yew woods,
and then follows a 200-year-old road on the Muckross Peninsula. The Blue Pool
Nature Trail (2.4km/1.5 miles) goes from Muckross village through woodlands
and past a small lake known as the Blue Pool. Leaflets with maps of the four
trails are available at the park visitor center.
Rising steeply from the south shore of Muckross Lake, Torc Mountain pro-
vides spectacular views of the Killarney Lakes and nearby MacGillycuddy’s
Reeks, a moody mountain range. Start at the Torc Waterfall parking lot, about
6.5km (4 miles) south of Killarney, and follow the trail to the top of the falls. At
a T-intersection, turn left toward the top parking lot, and almost immediately
turn right on the Old Kenmare Road, which follows a small stream along the
south slopes of Torc Mountain. After leaving the woods, you will see Torc
Mountain on your right. Look for a crescent-shaped gouge in the side of the
road, about 9m (30 ft.) across, with a small cairn at its far edge. This is the
beginning of the path to the ridge top, marked somewhat erratically by cairns
along the way. Return the way you came; the whole trip is 9.7km (6 miles), takes
about 4 hours, and is moderate in difficulty.
In addition to walking independently, visitors to the Killarney area can use a
range of guided walks varying in grade and duration (from 1 day to a weekend
to a full week). These walks and full guided walking holidays are offered by
SouthWest Walks Ireland Ltd., 40 Ashe St., Tralee, County Kerry (& 066/
712-8733; www.southwestwalksireland.com). Or you can arrange in advance to
meet up with the Wayfarers, an international organization of passionate pedes-

trians, who schedule 5-week-long footloose circuits of the Ring of Kerry each
spring, summer, and fall. To receive a schedule and reserve your place, contact
the Wayfarers, 172 Bellevue Ave., Newport, RI 02840 (& 800/249-4620;
www.thewayfarers.com).
For long-distance walkers, the 202km (125-mile) Kerry Way is a signposted
walking route that extends from Killarney around the Ring of Kerry (see “Sports
& Outdoor Pursuits,” in section 1, earlier in this chapter).
S P E C TAT O R S P O R T S
GAELIC GAMES The people of Killarney are passionately devoted to the
national sports of hurling and Gaelic football. Games are played almost every
Sunday afternoon during the summer at Fitzgerald Stadium, Lewis Road
(& 064/31700; www.gaa.ie). For complete details, consult the local Kerryman
newspaper or the Killarney Tourist Office.
HORSE RACING Killarney has two annual horse-racing meets, in early May
and mid-July. Each event lasts for 3 or 4 days and draws large crowds. For more
information, contact the Killarney Racecourse, Ross Road (& 064/31125), or
the tourist office.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE/EXPENSIVE
Killarney Park Hotel With a handsome yellow neo-Georgian facade,
this elegant four-story property is on the eastern edge of town, between the rail-
way station and the tourist office. Public rooms are posh and spacious and evoke
a distinguished Victorian country house, with brass fixtures, oil paintings, wain-
scot paneling, deep-cushioned seating, open fireplaces, and a sunlit conserva-
tory-style lounge overlooking the gardens. The guest rooms have a traditional,
conservative style, with quality provincial furnishings, quilted designer fabrics,
and marble-finished bathrooms.
Kenmare Place, Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/35555. Fax 064/35266. www.killarneyparkhotel.ie. 72 units.
€250–€370 ($301–$446) double; €350–€720 ($422–$868) suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC,
V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor swimming pool; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; concierge; room serv-
ice; massage; babysitting; laundry service; library. In room: TV, minibar, hair dryer, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Castlerosse Hotel and Leisure Centre Set on its own parklands
between the Lower Lake and surrounding mountains, this modern, rambling,
ranch-style inn is 3.2km (2 miles) from the heart of town and next to Killarney’s
two golf courses. The recently refurbished rooms offer bright, contemporary fur-
nishings and views of the lake. If you’re interested in longer-term rentals, there
are also 27 well-equipped two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartments available for
€260 to €850 ($299–$978) per week, depending on the season. Special rates
are often exclusively available on the hotel’s website.
Killorglin Rd., Killarney, County Kerry. & 800/528-1234 in the U.S. or 064/31144. Fax 064/31031.
www.castlerossehotelkillarney.com. 110 units. €130 ($150) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov to early Mar. Street parking only. Amenities: Restaurant (international);
bar; lounge; indoor pool; 9-hole golf course; tennis courts; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; babysitting; laun-
dry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV.
Earl’s Court House Award-winning Earl’s Court, a 5-minute walk from

the town center, is among Killarney’s most attractive quality guesthouses. On
arrival, guests are greeted with tea and scones in a lovely, old-fashioned lounge.
KILLARNEY 333
The rooms are spacious and furnished with good taste and a range of Irish
antiques. They are immaculately clean and immediately peaceful and pleasing,
with a distinct Victorian flair. Some have half-tester beds, others have king-size
beds and sitting areas, and nearly all have balconies. The second-floor rooms, in
particular, have clear views of the mountains. The breakfast menu offers a range
of selections, from apple crepes to kippers and tomatoes; you can eat in the gra-
cious, formal dining room or, by request, in your room.
Signposted off N71, Woodlawn Junction, Muckross rd., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34009. Fax
064/34366. www.killarney-earlscourt.ie. 24 units (1 single with shower only). €98–€136 ($118–$164) dou-
ble. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. MC, V. Closed Nov 6–Feb 5. Free parking. Ameni-
ties: Room service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, dataport, hair dryer, radio.
Hotel Europe Part of the same group as the Dunloe Castle, this modern,
five-story hotel has the edge because it enjoys one of the most picturesque settings
in Killarney. It sits right on the shores of the Lower Lake, 4.8km (3 miles) west
of town, adjacent to Killarney’s two 18-hole championship golf courses, and sur-
rounded by dozens of mountain peaks. The hotel’s public areas are spacious,
open, and filled with antiques, while guest rooms offer contemporary furnish-
ings. You pay about €70 ($81) more for a lakeside view, but it’s spectacular and
well worth it. Most rooms have private balconies.
Off Killorglin Rd., Fossa, Killarney, County Kerry. & 800/221-1074 in the U.S. or 064/31900. Fax 064/32118.
www.killarneyhotels.ie. 206 units. €180–€190 ($217–$229) double. Rates include full breakfast. V. Free
parking. Closed Nov to mid-Mar. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, cafe); bar; lounge; indoor pool; ten-
nis; gym; saunas; salon; babysitting; boating; fishing; horseback riding. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Kathleen’s Country House Of the many guesthouses in the area, this

one stands out. About 1.6km (1 mile) north of town on 1.2 hectares (3 acres) of
gardens next to a dairy farm, it’s a two-story contemporary stone house with a
modern mansard-style roof and many picture windows. Enthusiastic, efficient
hostess Kathleen O’Regan-Sheppard offers totally refurbished guest rooms with
antique pine furniture and light floral paisley fabrics, complemented by Kath-
leen’s collection of contemporary pastels and paintings.
Madam’s Height, Tralee rd. (N22), Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/32810. Fax 064/32340.
www.kathleens.net. 17 units. €110–€140 ($133–$169) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V.
Closed mid-Nov to mid-Mar. Free parking. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms; drawing room; sun room. In room:
TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
Killarney Great Southern Value You’ll have a hard time finding

another four-star hotel in this price bracket. Set amid 14 hectares (36 acres) of
gardens and lush foliage on the eastern edge of town, this four-story, ivy-covered
landmark is the grande dame of Killarney hotels. Dating from 1854, it was built
around the time of Queen Victoria’s visit to Killarney and has since hosted pres-
idents, princes, and personalities from all over the world, as well as many a mod-
ern-day tour group. The entire hotel got a top-to-toe refurbishment in 2002 and
managed to keep prices down, cementing it as one of the best values around.
The public areas retain the charm of yesteryear, with high ceilings rimmed by
ornate plasterwork, tall windows looking onto nearby mountain vistas, glowing

fireplaces, and Waterford crystal chandeliers. The guest rooms also have a tradi-
tional decor, and are quite spacious and comfortable. Train and bus terminals are
opposite the hotel, so it’s convenient, too.
Railway Rd., off E. Avenue Rd., Killarney, County Kerry. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 064/31262. Fax
064/31642. www.gsh.ie. 180 units. €150–€200 ($181–$240) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, bistro); bar; lounge; indoor heated swimming
pool; 2 tennis courts; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; concierge; salon; room service; laundry; dry cleaning;
beauty treatments. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
Killeen House Hotel Dating from 1838 and set on high ground over-
looking Killarney’s lakes and golf courses, this rambling Edwardian country
manor house is surrounded by mature gardens in a quiet residential area about
3.2km (2 miles) northwest of town. It has a relaxed, homey feel, with many of
the comforts of a hotel. The guest rooms, which vary in size and decor, feature
orthopedic beds and standard furniture. The golf-themed bar is probably the
only pub in the world that accepts golf balls as legal tender.
Aghadoe, Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31711. Fax 064/31811. www.killeenhousehotel.com. 23 units.
€140–€200 ($169–$240) double. Rates include full breakfast. Fixed dinner €45 ($54). AE, DC, MC, V. Free
parking. Closed Nov to mid-Apr. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; lounge. In room: TV, radio.
Muckross Park Hotel This charming hotel sits across the road from
Muckross House in the heart of Killarney National Park. Although it was built
recently, it incorporates parts of the oldest hotel in Killarney, dating from 1795.
It’s furnished in country-house style, with paneled walls, open fireplaces, and
equestrian-theme oil paintings. The rooms, which vary in size and decor, have
period furniture, including some half-tester beds, quilted fabrics, frilly draperies,
and Victorian-style ceiling fixtures. Molly Darcy’s, the house watering hole, is a
traditional thatched-roof pub (see “Pubs,” below).
Muckross rd. (N71), Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/31938. Fax 064/31965. www.muckrosspark.com. 70
units. €170–€260 ($205–$313) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed
Nov–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; lounge. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
Randles Court A former rectory dating from the turn of the 20th cen-
tury, this attractive yellow gabled four-story house sits on a raised site off the main
road outside Killarney Town on the road to Muckross House. Totally restored,
enlarged, and refurbished, it opened as a hotel in 1992. Since then, the Randle
family has worked together to enhance their new hotel venture with much suc-
cess. The public areas of Randles Court harken back to earlier days, with marble
floors, fireplaces, chandeliers, gilt mirrors, tapestries, and old prints. Three of the
guest rooms are in the original building and the rest are in a new wing. All have
distinctive furnishings, including armoires, antique desks, or vanities.
Muckross rd. (N71), Killarney, County Kerry. & 800/4-CHOICE in the U.S. or 064/35333. Fax 064/35206.
www.randleshotels.com. 55 units. €140–€190 ($169–$229) double. Rates include service charge and full
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; swimming pool; fitness
center; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Gleann Fia Country House Although it’s just a mile from town, this
modern, Victorian-style guesthouse feels pleasantly secluded, tucked away in
several acres of lawns and woodlands. Bridget and Conor O’Connell are
thoughtful hosts whose presence makes it a highly personable place. The house
has an airy conservatory with tea-making facilities, a guest lounge, and an
unusually extensive breakfast menu. Although the entire house is modern, it has
been thoughtfully and tastefully constructed to invoke old-world charm, and
KILLARNEY 335
definitely isn’t your average purpose-built guesthouse. There is a nature walk

along the stream by one side of the house.
Deerpark, Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/35035. Fax 064/35000. www.gleannfia.com. 19 units. €70–€126
($84–$152) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Lounge; nonsmoking
rooms; conservatory. In room: TV.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
Gaby’s Seafood Restaurant SEAFOOD One of Killarney’s longest-
established restaurants, this nautically themed place is a mecca for seafood lovers.
Its walls are adorned with commendations and awards, which could be a tacky
turnoff if the food weren’t so good. Gaby’s is known for its succulent lobster, served
grilled or in a house sauce of cognac, wine, cream, and spices. Other choices
include haddock in wine, a delectable tempura of prawns, and a giant Kerry shell-
fish platter—a veritable feast of prawns, scallops, mussels, lobster, and oysters.
27 High St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/32519. Reservations recommended. Main courses €23–€40
($28–$48). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–10pm. Closed late Feb to mid-Mar and Christmas week.
M O D E R AT E
Bricín TRADITIONAL IRISH Old-time Kerry boxty dishes (potato pan-
cakes with various fillings, such as chicken, seafood, curried lamb, or vegetables)
are the trademark of this restaurant above a very good craft-and-book shop. The
menu also offers a variety of fresh seafood, pastas, and Irish stew. Specials might
include filet of pork with sage and apricot stuffing, and chicken Bricín (breast
of chicken in red-currant and raspberry sauce). Bricín is in one of Killarney’s
oldest buildings, dating from the 1830s. It sports original stone walls, pine fur-
niture, and turf fireplaces. Snacks and light fare are served during the day. In
addition to the shop downstairs, the building houses the Bricín Art Gallery,
which displays oils and watercolors by local artists.
26 High St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34902. Reservations recommended for dinner. Fixed-price 2-
course dinner €23 ($28); dinner main courses €15–€23 ($18–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Year-round Tues–Sat
10am–4:30pm; Easter–Oct Mon–Sat 6–9:30pm.
Coopers Café and Restaurant MODERN CONTINENTAL Coop-

ers has broken the mold here in Killarney, with its chic, urban, nightclub decor,
making the most of glass, stone, aluminum, and sharp black-and-white contrasts.
Overhead, the many-tendrilled wire-sculpture chandeliers with flower-cup lights
cast a magical fairylike illumination. The total effect is as captivating as the inven-
tive and varied menu, which focuses on local Irish seafood and wild game. Menu
options include wild pheasant cooked in Irish cream liqueur, escallop of venison,
filet of wild pigeon, grilled swordfish and salmon, wild filet of sea trout, and
baked cod Provençal. For vegetarians, the warm goat-cheese salad with two pestos
is but one tasty selection. The alluring array of desserts includes crumbles, tarts,
homemade ice creams, meringues, and crème brûlées, although it requires rare
strength of character to get past the duo of dark chocolate and pistachio mousse.
Old Market Lane, off High St. (at New St.), Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/37716. Reservations recom-
mended. Main courses €14–€22 ($17–$27). MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm; Mon–Thurs 6:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat
6:30–10pm; Sun 4–9:30pm.
KILLARNEY AFTER DARK

There are a number of places in Killarney were you can watch a live “singalong”
cabaret (expect Irish folk ballads aplenty) for free. One of the most popular is
the Gleneagle Hotel, Muckross Road (& 064/36000), which puts on a show
every night in July and August starting at 8:30pm. Outside of the summer
months, the Killarney Great Southern, Railway Road (& 064/31262), hosts
its singalong Friday to Sunday year-round at 9pm.
Dero’s Tours, 22 Main St. (& 064/31251), offers a special bus and theater
ticket to Siamsa Tire, the National Folk Theatre of Ireland, at Town Park,
Tralee, 32km (20 miles) northwest of Killarney. (See “Tralee After Dark,” in sec-
tion 4, later in this chapter.)
PUBS
Dunloe Lodge This simple pub in the heart of town has a friendly, comfort-
able atmosphere. Don’t be surprised if a local patron spontaneously pulls out a
harmonica, an accordion, a banjo, or a fiddle and starts to play. Most nights
you’ll hear anything from Irish ballads to folk or rock music. It can be touristy,
but it’s fun. Plunkett St., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/33503.
Kate Kearney’s Cottage This is a place of pilgrimage in Killarney, and it’s
worth a stop if only for tradition’s sake. Almost everyone who ventures through
the famous Gap visits this former coaching inn, and it’s been that way for more
than a century. Elegantly attired Victorians were served illegal poteen (potato
moonshine) by Kate herself, who was believed by some to be a witch. From this
point on, all cars are left behind and it’s into the Gap on foot, horseback, bike,
or horse-and-buggy. Today this outpost 15km (9 miles) west of town is more
than a little touristy—a glorified refreshment stop with souvenirs for sale. But
from May through September, very good traditional music is performed on
Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday from 9 to 11:30pm. Gap of Dunloe, Killarney,
County Kerry. & 064/44146.
The Laurels One of the more popular “singsong” pubs in town, this place
rings to the rafters with the lilt of Irish ditties. Ballad singers are booked nightly
from April through October, starting at 9pm. Main St., Killarney, County Kerry.
& 064/31149.
Molly Darcy’s Across from Muckross House, this is one of Killarney’s best
traditional pubs, with a thatched roof, stone walls, an oak-beamed ceiling, open
fireplaces, alcoves, snugs, public phones in what were confession boxes salvaged
from a monastery, and lots of Killarney memorabilia. There’s dancing on Sun-
day evenings. Muckross Village, Muckross Rd., Killarney, County Kerry. & 064/34973.
Tatler Jack This traditional pub is a favorite gathering place for followers of
Gaelic football and hurling. Traditional music or ballads are scheduled from
June through September nightly from 9:30pm. Plunkett St., Killarney, County Kerry.
& 064/32361.
3 The Dingle Peninsula

Dingle Town is 48km (30 miles) W of Tralee and 80km (50 miles) NW of Killarney
Like the Iveragh Peninsula, Dingle has a spectacularly scenic peripheral road,
and a tourist trade has blossomed along it. But as soon as you veer off the main
roads, or penetrate to such hinterlands of the peninsula as the Blasket Islands or
Brandon Head, you’ll discover extraordinary desolate beauty, seemingly worlds
away from the tour buses and shamrock-filled shops. Dingle Town itself is defi-
nitely touristy, but it’s smaller and less congested than Killarney and retains more
traces of being a real, year-round town with an identity beyond the tourist trade.
THE DINGLE PENINSULA 337
Impressions
I walked up this morning along the slope from the east to the top of
Sybil Head, where one comes out suddenly on the brow of a cliff with a
straight fall of many hundreds of feet into the sea. It is a place of inde-
scribable grandeur, where one can see Carrantuohill and the Skelligs
and Loop Head and the full sweep of the Atlantic, and over all, the
wonderfully tender and searching light that is seen only in Kerry. One
wonders in these places why there is anyone left in Dublin, or London,
or Paris, when it would be better, one would think, to live in a tent or
hut with this magnificent sea and sky, and to breathe this wonderful air,
which is like wine in one’s teeth.
—John Millington Synge (1871–1909), Irish playwright
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Bus Eireann (& 066/712-3566; www.buseireann.ie)
provides daily coach service to Dingle from all parts of Ireland. The boarding
and drop-off point is on Upper Main Street.
If you’re driving from Tralee to Dingle, follow R559, or take R561 from
Castlemaine.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Dingle Tourist Office is on Main Street,
Dingle (& 066/915-1188). It is open seasonally, usually mid-April through
October. Regular hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm (extended and Sun
hours in peak summer season).
For extensive, detailed tourist information on the Dingle Peninsula, see
www.kerry-tourism.com, www.dodingle.com, or www.dingle-peninsula.ie.
GETTING AROUND Dingle Town has no local bus service. Bus Eireann
(& 066/712-3566) provides service from Dingle to other towns on the
peninsula. For local taxi or minibus service, contact John Sheehy (& 066/
915-1301). The best way to get around Dingle Town, with its narrow, winding,
hilly streets, is to walk. The town is small, compact, and easy to get to know.
To see the sights beyond the town, drive west along R559 or take one of the
sightseeing tours suggested below.
FAST FACTS In an emergency, dial & 999. The Dingle Hospital is on
Upper Main Street (& 066/915-1455 or 066/915-1172). The local Garda Sta-
tion is at Holy Ground, Dingle (& 066/915-1522).
The Niallann and Daingean (Dingle Laundry) is on Green Street (& 066/
915-1837).
The Dingle District Library is on Green Street, Dingle (& 066/915-1499).
In & About Dingle Peninsula is a newspaper-style publication distributed free
at hotels, restaurants, shops, and the tourist office. It lists events, attractions,
activities, and more.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Don’t miss Slea Head, at the southwestern extremity of the peninsula. It’s a place
of pristine beaches, great walks, and fascinating archaeological remains. The vil-
lage of Dunquin, stunningly situated between Slea Head and Clogher Head, is
home to the Blasket Centre. Dunbeg Fort sits on a rocky promontory just south
of Slea Head, its walls rising from the cliff edge. Although much of the fort has
fallen into the sea, the place is well worth a visit at the bargain-basement rate of
€2 ($2.40) per person. From Slea Head, the Dingle Way continues east to Din-
gle Town (24km/15 miles) or north along the coast toward Ballyferriter.
Just offshore from Dunquin are the seven Blasket Islands; a ferry (& 066/
915-6455) connects Great Blasket with the mainland when the weather per-
mits. The islands were abandoned by the last permanent residents in 1953 and
now are inhabited only by a few summer visitors who share the place with the
seals and seabirds. A magnificent 13km (8-mile) walk goes to the west end of
Great Blasket and back, passing sea cliffs and ivory beaches; you can stop along
the way at the only cafe on the island, which serves lunch and dinner.
East of Ballyferriter is Gallarus Oratory, one of the best-preserved early
Christian church buildings in Ireland. With a shape much like an overturned
boat, it’s constructed of unmortared stone, yet is still completely watertight after
more than 1,000 years.
Dingle’s Oceanworld Aquarium Kids Despite the big-sounding name, this
is a relatively small aquarium with little to see to justify the ticket price. There
are various sea critters behind glass in the aquarium’s 29 tanks, and members of
the young staff carry around live lobsters, crabs, starfish, and other “inner space”
creatures, and introduce them up-close to visitors. During feeding times, chil-
dren are allowed to hand out the grub. In addition, there are exhibits on Bren-
dan the Navigator and the Spanish Armada, a cafe, and a gift shop. This is a
compact, hands-on, interactive place that gets bonus points for effort, but in the
end doesn’t provide the wow factor of many other aquariums.
Dingle Harbour, Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-2111. www.dingle-oceanworld.ie. Admission €8.50 ($10)
adults, €6.50 ($7.85) seniors and students, €5.50 ($6.60) children, €23 ($28) families. MC,V. Daily 10am–6pm.
Eask Tower Built in 1847 as a signal for Dingle Harbour, Eask Tower was a
famine-relief project. It is a remarkable edifice, a 12m (40-ft.) tower built of solid
stone some 4.5m (15 ft.) thick, with a wooden arrow pointing to the mouth of the
harbor. The main reason for making the 1.6km (1-mile) climb to the summit of
Carhoo Hill is not the tower but the incredible panoramic views of Dingle Har-
bour, Connor Pass, Slea Head, and, on the far side of Dingle Bay, the high peaks of
the Iveragh Peninsula. This is a great place to get your bearings in the region—you
can see most of the southern part of the Dingle Peninsula. Save this for a clear day.
Carhoo Hill, Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1850. Admission €2 ($2.40). Daily 8am–10pm. From Dingle,
follow Slea Head Rd. 3.2km (2 miles), turn left at road signposted for Colâiste Ide, and continue another
3.2km (2 miles).
Ionad An Bhlascaoid Mhoir/The Blasket Centre This relatively new

heritage center is perched on the westerly tip of the Dingle Peninsula, overlook-
ing the Atlantic and the distant vistas of the remote Blasket Islands. The Great
Blasket was once an outpost of Irish civilization and a nurturing ground for a
small group of great Irish-language writers, but its inhabitants abandoned the
island in 1953. Through a series of displays, exhibits, and a video presentation,
this center celebrates the cultural and literary traditions of the Blaskets and the
history of Corca Dhuibhne, the Gaeltacht area. The center also has a research
room, a bookshop specializing in local literature, and a wide-windowed restau-
rant with views of the Blaskets.
Dunquin, County Kerry. & 066/915-6444. www.heritageireland.ie. Admission €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €2.50
($3) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) children and students, €8.25 ($9.95) families. Apr–June and Sept–Oct daily
10am–6pm; July–Aug daily 10am–7pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
Fungie the Dolphin Tours Kids Forget Flipper. In Dingle the name to
know is Fungie the Dolphin. Every day, fishing boats ferry visitors out into the
nearby waters to see the famous village mascot. Trips last about 1 hour and
depart regularly, roughly every 2 hours off season and as frequently as every half-
hour in high season. Fungie really does swim up to the boat, and the boatmen
stay out long enough for ample sightings—and long, wonderful eyefuls of the
gorgeous bay. If you want to get up close and personal with Fungie, you can also
arrange an early-morning dolphin swim (see “Swimming with a Dolphin,”
below).
The Pier, Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1967 or 066/915-2626. Tour €12 ($14) adults, €6 ($7.50) chil-
dren under 12. Year-round daily 10am–6pm, weather permitting.
Sciuird Archaeological Adventures A local expert leads these archaeolog-

ical tours, which last 21⁄2 hours and involve a short bus journey and some easy
walking. Four or five monuments, from the Stone Age to medieval times, are on
the route. All tours, limited to 8 to 10 people, start from the top of the pier.
Reservations are required.
Holy Ground, Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1937. Tour €15 ($18) per person. May–Sept daily 10:30am
and 2pm.
SHOPPING
Ceardlann Craft Village Just west of the Dingle Marina, this cluster of tra-
ditional cottages is a circular craft village, set on a hillside above the town and
harbor. A local craft worker who produces and sells his or her craft staffs each
workshop. Handmade felts, fun jewelry and mosaics, and traditional Irish musi-
cal instruments are offered, as well as silver jewelry and ceramic pictures. A cafe
on the premises serves excellent homemade soups, salads, and hot dishes. Open
daily from 10am to 6pm. The Wood, Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1778.
Greenlane Gallery This gallery and shop offers a wide selection of contem-
porary Irish paintings, watercolors, sculpture, and ceramics. Works by leading
Irish artists are always available, and private viewings can be arranged. Images
are also available by e-mail upon request. In summer the shop is open from
10am to 9pm; in winter hours are 11am to 5pm. Green St., Dingle, County Kerry.
& 066/915-2018. www.greenlanegallery.com.
Holden Leathergoods Conor Holden is one of Ireland’s most talented
leather craftsmen. Here, in his schoolhouse-turned-studio, he offers beautiful
handcrafted suede and silk-lined leather handbags, suede and leather pouches,
and duffel and travel bags, as well as briefcases, belts, wallets, and key cases.
Open Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to 6:30pm and Sunday 10:30am to
5pm (in low season, open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm). The Old School House, signposted
4.8km (3 miles) west of town on the Ventry rd. (R559), off the Slea Head Dr., Burnham, Dingle,
County Kerry. & 066/915-1796.
Louis Mulcahy Pottery Located north of Dunquin, this is the studio of
master craftsman Louis Mulcahy. He produces a stunning, sophisticated range
of pottery made from local clay and glazes devised at the shop. The finished
products include everything from tableware to giant vases, teapots, platters, and
huge lamps. Complementary furniture and hand-decorated silk and cotton
lampshades are available, as is a selection of Lisbeth Mulcahy’s tapestries and
weavings. The Mulcahys have opened a new shop and cafe in Ballyferriter
Village, just down the road. The shop specializes in distinctive painted lamp-
shades and housewares. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. Clogher, Ballyferriter, County
Kerry. & 066/915-6229. www.louismulcahy.com.
The Weavers’ Shop One of Ireland’s leading weavers, Lisbeth Mulcahy cre-
ates fabrics and tapestries inspired by seasonal changes in the landscape and
seascape. She uses pure wool, Irish linen, cotton, and alpaca in weaving scarves,
shawls, knee rugs, wall hangings, tapestries, table mats, and napkins. Everything
is gorgeous but expensive. From October to May, open Monday to Saturday
from 9am to 6pm; June to September, open Monday to Saturday from 9am to
9pm, Sunday from 10am to 6pm. Green St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1688.
BEACHES The Dingle Peninsula has some of the most dramatic beaches in
Ireland. The most famous is Inch Strand, which plays a cameo in County Kerry
Tourism’s TV ad with the tag line, “Where an inch is a mile.” Actually, it’s a
4.8km-long (3-mile) dune-covered sandy spit—one of the largest dune fields in
Ireland. To walk eastward from the crashing waves of the Atlantic surf of Din-
gle Bay through the large, active dunes to the quiet lagoons and mud flats
behind in Cromane Bay is to witness nature caught in a dynamic dance of wind,
sea, and sand. It is also steeped in history, archaeology, and wildlife. Part of
Ryan’s Daughter, the 1969 David Lean production with Robert Mitchum and
Sarah Miles, was filmed here.
If you’ve never seen a boulder beach, then Kilmurray Bay at Minard is
a Lilliputian dream come to life. Here in the shadow of Minard Castle, giant
sausage-shaped sandstone boulders form a beach unlike anything you have ever
seen. Definitely not a place for swimming, but a wonderful place for a surreal-
istic picnic lunch.
Like Minard, Trabeg Beach confronts the southwest storms of the Atlantic
head on. Here, on an ebbing tide, you will find exquisite wave-sculptured
maroon sandstone forms marching seaward from sheer rock cliffs and small sea
caves lined with veins of crystalline quartz. The beauty of the rock sculptures
combined with the roar of the surf is magical.
Some of the calmest beaches in this area for swimming are east of Castle-
gregory, on the west side of Tralee Bay. The beach at Maherabeg has a coveted
European Blue Flag (a symbol of high environmental and safety standards), and
the beaches of Brandon Bay are exceptionally scenic, and good for walking and
swimming.
BICYCLING Mountain bikes can be rented at the Mountain Man, Strand
Street, Dingle (& 066/915-2400), for €10 ($12) per day or €50 ($60) per
week. Adrian Currant knows the area well, and can suggest a number of 1-day
or overnight touring options on the Dingle Peninsula. A great day trip is the
road out to the tip of the peninsula past Slea Head and Clogher Head, which is
outrageously beautiful and not too hilly. Touring and mountain bikes are also
available year-round from Foxy John Moriarty, Main Street, Dingle (& 066/
915-1316), for €10 ($12) per day or €50 ($60) per week.
BIRD-WATCHING Great Blasket Island is of some interest for the fall
passerine migration. In summer the small, uninhabited islands surrounding
Great Blasket attract an abundance of nesting seabirds, including more than
20,000 pairs of storm petrels. From Clogher Head north of Dunquin at the
western extremity of the Dingle Peninsula, rare autumn migrants can sometimes
be seen. Inch Peninsula, extending into Castlemaine Harbour south of Inch
town, is a wintering ground for brent geese, which arrive in late August and
move on in April; there is also a large wigeon population during the fall.
DIVING The Dingle Dive Centre, on the marina, Dingle (& 066/
915-2422; www.divedingle.com), offers a full range of PADI lessons and certi-
fication courses for beginners and experienced divers, as well as day-trip dives. A
1-hour lesson followed by an ocean dive is €90 ($108). A day trip to the Blas-
ket Islands, including two dives, gear hire, and tanks, costs €105 ($126). On
the North Dingle Peninsula, Harbour House, The Maharees, Castlegregory,
County Kerry (& 066/713-9292; www.waterworld.ie), is a diving center that
offers packages including diving, room, and board at remarkable rates. The
house is yards from the Scraggane Pier, and a 5- to 15-minute boat ride from
most of the diving sites. All members of the Fitzgibbon family are active divers,
and they offer a great vacation for people who share their passion. Classes for
beginners are also available.
GOLF Sixteen kilometers (10 miles) west of Dingle Town, on the western edge
of the Dingle Peninsula, overlooking the Atlantic, the Dingle Golf Club (Ceann
Sibéal), Ballyferriter (& 066/915-6255; www.dinglelinks.com), welcomes visi-
tors to play its 18-hole, par-72 course. Greens fees are €45 to €60 ($54–$75) on
weekdays and €55 to €70 ($66–$84) on weekends, depending on the season.
HORSEBACK RIDING At Dingle Horse Riding, Ballinaboula House, Din-
gle (& 066/915-2199), rides are available along nearby beaches or through the
mountains. A 11⁄2-hour mountain ride costs €25 ($30). Half-day, full-day, and 3-
to 5-day packages including accommodations, meals, and riding can be arranged.
SAILING The Dingle Sailing Club, c/o The Wood, Dingle (& 066/
915-1984), offers an array of courses taught by experienced, certified instruc-
tors. Summer courses run €130 to €150 ($150–$173).
SEA ANGLING For packages and day trips, contact Nicholas O’Connor at
Angler’s Rest, Ventry (& 066/915-9947); or Seán O’Conchúir (& 066/
915-5429), representing the Kerry Angling Association.
Moments Swimming with a Dolphin
A unique watersport in Dingle Bay is swimming with the resident dol-

phin, Fungie. Although Fungie can swim about 40kmph (25 mph), he
enjoys human company and is usually willing to slow down and swim
with his new acquaintances, often playfully jumping clear over their
heads. He’s free and lives in the wild, but regularly comes by to inter-
act with people. To arrange a dolphin encounter, contact John Brosnan
(& 066/915-1967), almost any day from 8am to 8pm. You book a swim
the day before, when you rent your gear (semidry suit, mask, snorkel,
boots, and fins, all in one duffel). The full overnight outfitting cost is
€20 ($24) per person. Then you show up in your gear early the next
morning to be brought out by boat to your aquatic rendezvous. The 2-
hour escorted swim costs an additional €25 ($30). If you prefer, you
can use your rented outfit and swim out on your own; Fungie also wel-
comes drop-ins. This outing is for teenagers on up, although smaller
children will certainly enjoy watching.
WALKING The Dingle Way begins in Tralee and circles the peninsula, cov-
ering 153km (95 miles) of gorgeous mountain and coastal landscape. The most
rugged section is along Brandon Head, where the trail passes between Mount
Brandon and the ocean. The views are tremendous, but the walk is long (about
24km/15 miles, averaging 9 hr.) and strenuous, and should be attempted only
when the sky is clear. The section between Dunquin and Ballyferriter (also
24km/15 miles) follows an especially lovely stretch of coast. For more informa-
tion, see The Dingle Way Map Guide, available in local tourist offices and shops.
The best walk in the region, and one of the best in Ireland, is the ascent to
Brandon’s summit . The approach from the west is a more gradual climb,
but the walk from the eastern, Cloghane side is far more interesting and includes
the beautiful Paternoster Lakes. The road to the trail head is signposted just past
Cloghane on the road to Brandon town; drive about 4.8km (3 miles) on this
road to a small parking lot and the Lopsided Tea House. Be sure to bring plenty
of water and food, gear for wind and rain, and a good map. The trail climbs
through fields, past an elaborate grotto, and along the slope of an open hillside
where flashy red-and-white poles mark the way. As you round the corner of the
high open hillside, the Paternoster Lakes and Brandon come into view. The walk
through this glacial valley toward the base of the mountain is the most beauti-
ful part of the trail; when the weather’s bad, you won’t have wasted your time if
you turn around before reaching the summit. The only seriously strenuous leg
of the journey is the climb out of this valley to the ridge, a short but intense
scramble over boulders and around ledges. Once you reach the ridge top, turn
left and follow the trail another .4km (quarter-mile) or so to the summit. You
can return the way you came or continue south along the ridge, returning to
Cloghane on the Pilgrim’s Route, an old track that circumnavigates the Dingle
Peninsula. Although this is a day hike (about 4 hr. to the summit and back), and
very well marked, it shouldn’t be taken too lightly—bring all necessary supplies,
and let someone know when you expect to return. Information on climbing
routes and weather conditions is available at the Cloghane visitor center.
Hidden Ireland Tours, Dingle (& 888/246-9026 in the U.S. or 087/
221-4002; www.hiddenirelandtours.com), offers a week of easy to moderate guided
hiking through some of Ireland’s most beautiful scenery. It takes in parts of the
Kerry Way, Killarney National Park, the Beara Peninsula in County Cork, Skellig
Michael, and the Dingle Peninsula. The cost, including luggage transfers and
accommodations, runs €2,250 ($2,711) per person. Available April to September.
WINDSURFING The beaches around Castlegregory offer a variety of condi-
tions for windsurfing. Those on the eastern side of the peninsula are generally
calmer than those to the west. Equipment can be hired from Jamie Knox
Watersports, Maharees, Castlegregory, County Kerry (& 066/713-9411;
www.jamieknox.com), on the road between Castlegregory and Fahamore.
Kayaks can also be rented for €25 ($30) per hour.
WHERE TO STAY
Dingle Skellig Hotel Named for the fabled Sceilig (or Skellig) Rocks off
the coast, this three-story hotel enjoys an idyllic location next to Dingle Bay on
the eastern edge of town. Expanded and upgraded in recent years by Thomas
Garvey, the public areas are decorated with Irish pine and brass touches. The
guest rooms can feel dated, with busy fabrics and nondescript furnishings, but
they have fabulous views of the sea.
Throughout the summer season, the Dingle Bay Cabaret puts on a 3-hour
spectacle, including audience participation in Irish dancing. A range of chil-
dren’s entertainment is also available.
Annascaul Rd., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/9151144. Fax 066/9151501. www.dingleskellig.com. 116 units.
€120–€220 ($145–$265) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Jan–Feb
Mon–Thurs (open weekends). Amenities: Restaurant (seafood); bar; lounge; indoor pool; gym; Jacuzzi; steam
room; children’s playroom; room service; health treatments. In room: TV, radio, hair dryer.
M O D E R AT E
Benners Hotel Value One of the few hotels out here that stay open year-
round, Benners is a good-value choice with character that’s right in the heart of
town. The lovely Georgian doorway with a fanlight at the front entrance sets the
tone. Dating from more than 250 years ago, the hotel blends old-world charm
and modern comforts, thanks to a recent refurbishment and expansion. It’s fur-
nished with Irish antique pine furniture, including four-poster beds and
armoires in the guest rooms. Special 2- and 3-night rates are available on the
hotel’s website.
Main St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1638. Fax 066/915-1412. www.dinglebenners.com. 52 units.
€120–€250 ($145–$301) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); 2 bars. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Doyle’s Townhouse Sister to the successful Doyle’s Seafood Restaurant

next door, this three-story guesthouse is a favorite Dingle hideaway. It has a lovely
Victorian fireplace in the drawing-room area, and many of the antique fixtures
date from 250 years ago or more. Period pieces and country pine predominate in
the guest rooms, although they’re totally up-to-date with firm beds and good-size
Italian marble bathrooms with towel warmers. Most are so spacious that they
have a pullout couch that can accommodate a third person. Front rooms look out
onto the town, and back rooms have a balcony or patio and face a garden, with
mountain vistas in the background. Two ground-floor rooms are perfect for folks
who have difficulty with stairs. In addition, just down the road, off a little court-
yard, there are four little town houses—each with its own entrance and a sitting
room downstairs, with a bedroom and bathroom on the upper level.
5 John St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 800/223-6510 in the U.S. or 066/915-1174. Fax 066/915-1816.
www.doylesofdingle.com. 12 units. €90–€136 ($108–$164) double. Rates include full breakfast. DC, MC, V.
Closed Christmas and mid-Jan to mid-Feb. Amenities: Drawing room. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Milltown House You couldn’t wish for a more picturesque setting than
this bayside haven. Tucked away on the bank of a tidal inlet, Milltown House
enjoys a privileged location just minutes from Dingle Town, providing both easy
access and serene remove. The simple white-and-black 19th-century exterior
conceals the exceptional class and comfort of a fine family-run guesthouse. It
incorporates the amenities of a hotel with the informal warmth of a B&B. The
spacious guest rooms—each uniquely designed—have sitting areas and firm,
orthopedic beds. Half of them have sea views and the other half have garden
views with patios. Two rooms are wheelchair accessible. The nonsmoking sitting
room—all easy chairs and open fires—is elegant and comfortable, while the
conservatory breakfast room (where you’ll enjoy a lavish breakfast menu) looks
out on Dingle Bay. Film buffs might want to request room no. 2, where Robert
Mitchum stayed while filming Ryan’s Daughter.
Milltown (off Ventry Rd.), Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1372. Fax 066/915-1095. www.milltownhouse
dingle.com. 10 units. €120–€150 ($145–$181) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities:
Conservatory; sitting room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
INEXPENSIVE
The Captain’s House Value You won’t get better value for money in Din-
gle. Jim and Mary Milhench own and run this friendly, dapper little B&B right
smack in the middle of Dingle. The name is inspired more by the location (the
house is landlocked, except for a river that runs through the well-manicured yard)
than by Jim’s former life as a sea captain. Everything here is done with an eye for
orderly, shipshape detail. When you arrive, you’re offered tea with scones or a slice
of rich porter cake (don’t decline—it’s wonderful) and made to feel genuinely
welcome. As in many town houses, rooms were built to a smallish scale, but the
whole place is done up so delightfully that the overall effect is cozy rather than
cramped. Returning guests often ask specifically to stay in room no. 10, which is
tucked under the gables and has a sloping ceiling. Mary’s breakfasts are excel-
lent—homemade muesli, baked ham, local cheeses, and homemade honey and
marmalade, along with the usual eggs any which way with sausages and bacon.
The Mall, Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1531. Fax 066/915-1079. 8 units. €90–€100 ($108–$120)
double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec–Jan. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV.
Greenmount House Perched on a hill overlooking Dingle Bay and the

town, this modern bungalow-style bed-and-breakfast home is a standout in its
category. It was named RAC (Royal Automobile Club—the British equivalent
of AAA) 1997 “Small Hotel of the Year” for Ireland. It has all the comforts of a
hotel at bargain prices, including spacious guest rooms, each with its own sitting
area and large bathroom. The “superior rooms” are newer and have sea views.
Breakfasts, ranging from smoked salmon omelets to ham-and-pineapple toasties,
have won awards for proprietors Mary and John Curran.
John St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1414. Fax 066/915-1974. www.greenmount-house.com. 12 units.
€75–€100 ($90–$120) double; €100–€150 ($120–$181) superior double. Rates include full breakfast. MC,
V. Closed Dec 20–26. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms; conservatory; sitting room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
Beginish SEAFOOD If you’re looking for the best seafood in Dingle,
you’ve come to the right place. Owner/chef Mrs. Pat Moore runs this delightful
small restaurant, and she’s managed to achieve an atmosphere of quiet elegance,
unassuming and comfortable. There’s a lovely conservatory overlooking the gar-
den in back, with room for outdoor tables in summer. Although there are lamb
and beef dishes and a vegetarian special each night, the emphasis is on fish—the
cooking is simple, traditional, and always delightful. Among the starters, the
smoked salmon with shallots, capers, and horseradish cream is exquisite—noth-
ing fancy, just excellent ingredients combined in the perfect proportions. Also
delicious is the tomato and goat’s-cheese mousse with fennel. You can’t go wrong
with any of the fish courses, such as the old-fashioned fish chowder as a starter,
or main courses like monkfish with Provençal sauce or cod on thyme-scented
potatoes and sweet red peppers. For dessert, Pat’s hot rhubarb soufflé tart is leg-
endary in these parts.
Green St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1588. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
€16–€28 ($19–$34). MC, V. Tues–Sun 12:30–2:15pm and 6–10pm. Closed Dec–Feb.
EXPENSIVE
Doyle’s Seafood Bar SEAFOOD It’s been almost 25 years since John
and Stella Doyle left Dublin to open the town’s first seafood bar, and by now it’s
part of Dingle history. These days the place is run by Sean and Charlotte
Clouskey. The atmosphere is homey, with stone walls and floors, sugan (a kind
of straw) chairs, tweedy place mats, and old Dingle sketches. All the ingredients
come from the sea, the gardens, or nearby farms—and the place even smokes its
own salmon. Specialties include baked filet of lemon sole with prawn sauce,
salmon filet in puff pastry with sorrel sauce, rack of lamb, and a signature plat-
ter of seafood (sole, salmon, lobster, oysters, and crab claws).
4 John St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1174. www.doylesofdingle.com. Reservations required. Main
courses €20–€29 ($24–$35). MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–9:30pm. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Feb.
M O D E R AT E
The Chart House MODERN COUNTRY This is the hottest table in
Dingle—in fact, it’s a destination restaurant that draws folks from outside
Kerry—so book ahead and prepare to enjoy. As the Sunday Tribune food critic
gushed, “The food, the service, and the buzz all conspire to set this place apart.”
There’s the ubiquitously inviting bistrolike atmosphere—cue the country half-
door and chunky pine furniture—but everyone comes for owner/chef Jim
McCarthy’s confident, simple cooking. Think wonderful comfort food with a
flair—filet of beef with garlicky mashed spuds or peppered filet of pork served
with brandied apricots and garlicky blue cheese. It’s the kind of food you never
tire of. And the service is, as the Irish would say, “spot on.”
The Mall, Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-2255. www.charthousedingle.com. Reservations required. Din-
ner main courses €15–€25 ($18–$30). MC, V. Wed–Mon 6:30–10pm. Closed Jan 8–Feb 12.
Lord Bakers SEAFOOD/PUB GRUB Named after a 19th-century Din-

gle poet, politician, and publican, this restaurant is part of a building that is
reputedly the oldest pub in Dingle. The decor blends an old-world stone fire-
place and cozy alcoves with a sunlit conservatory and Art Deco touches. The
menu offers standard bar food, as well as crab claws or prawns in garlic butter,
fried scampi, Kerry oysters, seafood Mornay, and steaks. Dinner specialties
include sole stuffed with smoked salmon and spinach in cheese sauce, lobster
thermidor, and rack of lamb.
Main St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1277. Reservations recommended for dinner. Bar food
€10–€13 ($12–$17); dinner main courses €16–€28 ($19–$35). AE, MC, V. Fri–Wed 12:30–2pm and
6–9:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
An Cafe Liteartha CAFE/TEAROOM “The Literary Cafe” is a self-
service tearoom and a fabulous bookstore with books and maps of Irish interest,
and a focus on life in this corner of County Kerry. The cafe section features
soups, sandwiches, salads, seafood, and freshly baked scones and cakes. It’s an
ideal spot to browse and to enjoy a quick lunch or snack in the middle of town.
Dykegate St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-2204. All items €3–€5 ($3.60–$6). No credit cards.
Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, later in summer.
PUBS
An Driochead Beag/The Small Bridge Built on a bridge, with a stone floor
and a rustic interior and a friendly atmosphere, this pub in the heart of town
draws crowds throughout the year for sessions of traditional Irish music, usually
starting at 9:30pm. Be sure to arrive early if you want even standing room! Lower
Main St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1723.
Dick Mack’s Although one of Dingle’s most famous old characters, Richard
“Dick” Mack, died a few years ago, his family carries on his traditions. In his day,
Dick ran the place as a pub and shoeshine shop all in one. The small leather shop
is still on the left, opposite a tiny bar. Old pictures, books, and mugs, all part of
the Dick Mack legend, line the walls. It’s a favorite among locals, as it has been
for celebrities such as Robert Mitchum, Timothy Dalton, and Paul Simon,
whose names are commemorated with stars on the sidewalk just outside. Green
St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1960.
O’Flaherty’s This big, barnlike, rustic pub reflects the true flavor of the Din-
gle Peninsula. Old posters, prints, clippings, and photos of Irish literary figures
line the walls. You’ll also see poems on the Dingle area by local authors, and
favorite Gaelic phrases. In the evenings, you’ll usually find excellent traditional-
music sessions. Bridge St., Dingle, County Kerry. & 066/915-1983.
4 Tralee
Tralee is 32km (20 miles) NW of Killarney
Tralee is the commercial center of County Kerry, and with a population of
22,000, it’s three times the size of Killarney. This is more a functioning town
than a tourist center, and locals outnumber visitors, except during the ever-pop-
ular Rose of Tralee festival in August. The town is the permanent home of the
National Folk Theatre of Ireland, Siamsa Tire, which operates year-round but is
most active during July and August.
The harbor of Tralee is 6.5km (4 miles) northwest of the town, at Fenit. A
major sailing center, Fenit is where St. Brendan the Navigator was born in 484,
or so it’s said. Brendan is credited with sailing the Atlantic in a small leather boat
known as a coracle and arriving in America long before Columbus.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Aer Lingus operates daily nonstop flights from Dublin
into Kerry County Airport, Farranfore, County Kerry (& 066/976-4644;
www.kerryairport.ie), about 24km (15 miles) south of Tralee.
Buses from all parts of Ireland arrive daily at the Bus Eireann Depot, John
Joe Sheehy Road (& 066/712-3566; www.buseireann.ie).
Trains from major cities arrive at the Irish Rail Station, John Joe Sheehy
Road (& 066/712-3522; www.irishrail.ie).
Four major national roads converge on Tralee: N69 and N21 from Limerick
and the north, N70 from the Ring of Kerry and points south, and N22 from
Killarney, Cork, and the east.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Tralee Tourist Office, Ashe Memorial
Hall, Denny Street (& 066/712-1288), offers information on Tralee and the
Dingle Peninsula. It is open weekdays 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm, with week-
end and extended hours in the spring and summer. There is also a first-rate cafe
on the premises. For Tralee tourist information online, explore www.tralee.ie
and www.tralee-insight.com.
GETTING AROUND The best way to get around Tralee’s downtown area is
to walk. If you prefer to take a taxi, call Kingdom Cabs, Boherbee (& 066/
712-7828), or Tralee Radio Cabs, Monavelley (& 066/712-5451).
FAST FACTS If you need a drugstore, try Kelly’s Pharmacy, 9 The Mall
(& 066/712-1302), or Cahill Sharon Chemist, 37 Upper Castle St. (& 066/
712-1205).
In an emergency, dial & 999. Bon Secours Hospital is on Strand Street
(& 066/712-1966). Tralee General Hospital is on Killarney road (N22;
& 066/712-6222). The local Garda Station is off High Street (& 066/
712-2022).
TRALEE 347
SEEING THE SIGHTS

During July and August, the Tralee Tourist Office (see above) sponsors guided
walks that take in the local churches, the Square, Market Lane, Ashe Hall,
Siamsa Tire, the Town Park, and principal streets. Departures are at 10am and
4 and 9pm. After the 9pm walks, participants are taken to the local pubs to
enjoy folk and traditional music. Prices start at €8 ($9.60).
Blennerville Windmill Just 4.8km (3 miles) west of Tralee and reaching 20m
(65 ft.) into the sky, this landmark is the largest working windmill in Ireland or
Britain. Built in 1800 by Sir Rowland Blennerhasset, it flourished until 1850.
After decades of neglect, it was restored in the early 1990s and is now fully oper-
ational, producing 5 tons of ground whole-meal flour per week. The visitor
complex has an emigration exhibition center, an audiovisual theater, craft work-
shops, and a cafe.
R559, Blennerville, County Kerry. & 066/712-1064. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €4 ($4.80) seniors and stu-
dents, €3 ($3.60) children over 5, €13 ($16) families. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
Kerry the Kingdom One of Ireland’s largest indoor heritage centers, the
Kingdom offers three attractions that give an in-depth look at 7,000 years of life
in County Kerry. A 10-minute video, Kerry in Colour, presents seascapes and land-
scapes; the Kerry County Museum chronologically examines the county’s music,
history, legends, and archaeology through interactive and hands-on exhibits; and
a unique exhibit explores Gaelic football. Many items of local origin that were pre-
viously on view at the National Museum in Dublin are now here. Complete with
lighting effects and aromas, a theme-park-style ride, “Geraldine Tralee,” takes you
through a re-creation of Tralee’s streets and houses during the Middle Ages. The
gift shop was recently expanded to include many unique items.
Ashe Memorial Hall, Denny St., Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/712-7777. Admission €8 ($9.65) adults, €6.50
($7.85) students, €5 ($6) children, €22 ($27) families. Jan–Mar Tues–Fri 10am–4:30pm; Apr–May and
Sept–Dec Tues–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm; June–Aug daily 9:30am–5:30pm.
Tralee-Blennerville Steam Train Europe’s westernmost railway, this

restored steam train offers narrated, scenic 3.2km (2-mile) trips from Tralee’s
Ballyard Station to Blennerville. It uses equipment that was once part of the
Tralee and Dingle Light Railway (1891–1953), one of the world’s most famous
narrow-gauge railways.
Ballyard, Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/712-1064. Round-trip fare €5 ($5.75) adults, €3.50 ($4) students and
seniors, €2.50 ($2.90) children, €12 ($14) families. Daily May–Oct. Trains depart Blennerville on the 1⁄2 hr.
(1st departure 10:30am) and depart Tralee on the hour (last departure 5pm). Note: Near the end of every
month, the trains are off-track and serviced for a day or 2; call before you visit.
SPECTATOR SPORTS
DOG RACING Greyhounds race year-round on Tuesday and Friday starting
at 8pm at the Kingdom Greyhound Racing Track, Oakview, Brewery Road
(& 066/712-4033). Admission is €6 ($7.50) per person, including program.
HORSE RACING Horse racing takes place twice a year (in early June and late
Aug) at Tralee Racecourse, Ballybeggan Park (& 066/713-6148 or on race days
066/712-6188). Post time is usually 2:30pm. Admission starts at €11 ($13) for
adults, €6 ($7.50) for seniors and students, and is free for children under 14.
GOLF Like its neighbor Killarney, Tralee is great golfing turf. The Tralee Golf
Club, Fenit/Churchill Road, West Barrow, Ardfert (& 066/713-6379;
www.traleegolfclub.com), overlooking the Atlantic 13km (8 miles) northwest of
town, was the first Arnold Palmer–designed course in Europe. One of Ireland’s
newer courses, it’s expected in time to rank among the best in the world. Greens
fees are €150 ($181).
About 40km (25 miles) north of Tralee in the northwest corner of County Kerry
is Bill Clinton’s favorite Irish course, the fabulous Ballybunion Golf Club ,
Ballybunion, County Kerry (& 068/27146; www.ballybuniongolfclub.ie). This
facility offers visitors a relatively new clubhouse and the chance to play on two chal-
lenging 18-hole seaside links, both on the cliffs overlooking the Shannon River
estuary and the Atlantic. Tom Watson has rated the Old Course one of the finest
in the world; the Cashen Course was designed by Robert Trent Jones. Greens fees
are €125 ($151) for the Old Course, €80 ($96) for the Cashen Course, and €160
($193) for golf on both courses in the same day.
HORSEBACK RIDING If you’d like to see the Tralee sights from horseback,
you can’t do better than to hire a horse from Eagle Lodge Equestrian Centre,
Gortatlea (& 066/37266). Prices start at €20 ($24) per hour for 1- or 2-hour
rides on the Slieve Mish Mountains and Queen Scotia’s Glen.
WHERE TO STAY
M O D E R AT E
Abbey Gate Hotel This new three-story hotel brings much-needed qual-
ity lodging and a broader dimension of social activity to the center of Tralee
town. The hotel is ideally located within walking distance of Tralee’s prime
attractions, shops, and pubs. Guest rooms, like the public areas, are furnished
with new reproductions, and fabrics, art, and accessories convey an air of Geor-
gian and Victorian Tralee.
Maine St., Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/712-9888. Fax 066/712-9821. www.abbeygate-hotel.com. 100 units.
€130–€170 ($157–$205) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international,
bistro); bar; room service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Ballygarry House Hotel About 1.6km (1 mile) south of town, this country
inn is on the edge of a residential neighborhood, surrounded by well-tended gar-
dens and sheltering trees. The guest rooms vary in size; each is individually dec-
orated and named after different aspects of County Kerry, such as Arbutus,
Muckross, Valentia, and Slea Head. The public areas have a horsey theme, with
pictures of prize-winning thoroughbreds, brass accessories, and other equestrian
touches. The Monarchs restaurant and lounge bar are in the hotel.
Tralee-Killarney rd., Leebrook, Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/712-1233. Fax 066/712-7630. 46 units.
€150–€190 ($181–$229) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec
20–28. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar. In room: TV.
Ballyseede Castle Hotel Ballyseede Castle, a 15th-century castle com-

plete with live-in ghost, was once the chief garrison of the legendary Fitzgeralds,
the earls of Desmond. The Blennerhassett family occupied it until 1966 and, in
1985, turned it into a hotel. The lobby has Doric columns and a hand-carved
oak staircase. Two drawing rooms are decorated with cornices of ornamental
plasterwork and warmed by marble fireplaces. Guest rooms are spacious and ele-
gantly appointed with period furnishings. The castle is 3.2km (2 miles) east of
Tralee, on 12 hectares (30 acres) of parkland.
Tralee-Killarney rd., Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/712-5799. Fax 066/712-5287. www.ballyseedecastle.com.
12 units. €150–€210 ($181–$253) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); piano lounge;
library. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
TRALEE 349
Brandon Hotel Named for nearby Mount Brandon, this is a modern,

dependable five-story hotel at the west edge of town, with vistas of the Dingle
Peninsula in the distance. The rooms are functional and well maintained, but it’s
the amenities and leisure center that make this hotel a very good value. The con-
venient location is another plus—just a block from the National Folk Theatre
and tourist office, and within easy strolling distance of shops and downtown
restaurants.
Princes St., Tralee, County Kerry. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 066/712-3333. Fax 066/712-5019.
www.brandonhotel.ie. 182 units. €110–€170 ($133–$205) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC,
V. Closed Dec 24–28. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, cafe); 2 bars; indoor pool; gym; sauna/steam
room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
INEXPENSIVE
Barnagh Bridge Country Guesthouse Perched on a hillside overlook-
ing Tralee Bay, this stunning two-story contemporary house was built as a guest-
house by the Williams family. It is located on the quieter, north side of the
peninsula and makes an ideal touring base for those who prefer a country set-
ting to a town. Each guest room takes its theme from a flower in the surround-
ing gardens, such as Fuchsia, Bluebell, and Rose. The rooms have light pine
furnishings and orthopedic beds, and most have views of the mountains and sea.
Smoking is limited to the guest lounge.
Cappalough, Camp, County Kerry. & 066/713-0145. Fax 066/713-0299. 5 units. €50–€80 ($60–$96) dou-
ble. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar 15. Amenities: Lounge; nonsmoking rooms. In
room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
The Shores Value This is a modern house, tastefully extended in 1999,

on the south side of Brandon Bay. It commands wonderful views of Tralee Bay
and Mount Brandon. Annette O’Mahoney is an avid interior decorator and has
extended a Victorian theme and a feeling of luxury throughout the house. Fur-
nishings are lavish, with a canopy bed in one room and writing desks in three
rooms. A downstairs room has a private entrance and a fireplace. All rooms have
orthopedic beds, with crisp white cotton and cream lace linen. There’s a sun
deck and a beach for when the heavens are kind, and a guest library and video
rentals for when they are not. Breakfast options are particularly extensive, with
smoked salmon and waffles as alternatives to the standard fry. The latest addi-
tion is a new self-catering cottage.
.8km (1⁄2 mile) west of Stradbally on the Conor Pass Rd., Cappatigue, Castlegregory, County Kerry.
& 066/713-9196. 6 units. €60–€80 ($75–$96) double. Rates include full breakfast. Fixed-price dinner
€25–€30 ($30–$36). MC, V. Closed Dec–Jan. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
Illauntannig Island Cottage For those who really want to get away from it
all, in a stunningly beautiful place, this cottage presents a unique opportunity.
Illauntannig is one of the seven Maharees Islands, about 1.6km (1 mile) offshore
from Scraggane Bay, on the north shore of the Dingle Peninsula. The island cov-
ers an area of about 14 hectares (36 acres) and has been inhabited at least since
the 6th century, when St. Seanach founded a monastery here. The remains of
this monastic site, now a national monument, are a short walk from the house;
perched on the water’s edge are several beehive huts, an oratory, some beautiful
stone crosses, and an enclosing wall. There is only one cottage on the island. The
small stone structure has four bedrooms (sleeps eight), one bathroom, a sitting
room with fireplace, and a sunny kitchen with dining alcove.
Make no mistake—you’re roughing it, with oil lamps substituting for electric,
and precious drinking water brought over from the mainland. Still, the basic
necessities are provided, with gas-powered refrigeration, a hot-water heater, and
a bathroom with shower. Your only companions for the week will be seabirds
(many species nest on the island) and cows, the island’s only year-round resi-
dents. Bob Goodwin, a venerable seaman with a wealth of knowledge on local
birds and history, will check in on you every day by two-way radio, and can take
you to the mainland as often as necessary for supplies. Although some might
balk at the isolation or the austerity, for the right person, this place is a getaway
dream come true.
Contact Bob Goodwin, Maharees, Castlegregory, County Kerry. &/fax 066/713-9443. 1 cottage. Apr–May
and Sept–Oct €450 ($540) per week; June–Aug €500 ($602) per week. Rates include transport to and from
the island, bedding, and all utilities. No credit cards. Closed Nov–Mar. In room: Kitchen.
Kerry Cottages Kids If you want to be on the coveted Dingle Peninsula

but away from the crowds, look no further. These 10 cottages are off a quiet
back road, just a few minutes on foot to the beach and another 20 minutes or
so to Castlegregory village on the north side of the peninsula. All the cottages
are furnished in a charming country Irish style, with pine furnishings, terra-cotta
floors (carpeting upstairs), and whitewashed walls. The smallest cottage is a cozy
two-bedroom retreat with a small private garden; six cottages have three bed-
rooms and semiprivate backyards. “The Sands” is the largest house, with five
bedrooms, each with a private bathroom. In another five-bedroom house, three
bedrooms have private bathrooms. Second-story bedrooms in the larger cottages
have great sea views. Each place is equipped with a washer-dryer and dishwasher,
and the kitchens are well equipped with everything you need to prepare most
meals. A small playground area for kids, with swing set and slide, is part of the
complex. Rates vary seasonally; the cottages are an especially good value outside
the summer season.
Castlegregory, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry (1.6km/1 mile from Castlegregory). & 01/284-4000. Fax
01/284-4333. www.kerrycottages.com. Book through Kerry Cottages, 3 Royal Terrace W., Dun Laoghaire,
County Dublin. 10 cottages. €269–€1,045 ($324–$1,259) per week for a 2- or 3-bedroom cottage;
€795–€1,945 ($958–$2,344) per week for a 5-bedroom cottage. MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen, dishwasher,
dryer, microwave, washing machine, no phone.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
The Tankard SEAFOOD This is one of the few restaurants in the area that
capitalizes on sweeping views of Tralee Bay. Situated on the water’s edge, it has
wide picture windows and a sleek, contemporary decor. The straightforward
menu primarily features local shellfish and seafood, such as lobster, scallops,
prawns, and black sole. It also includes rack of lamb, duck, quail, and a variety
of steaks. Bar food is available all day, but this restaurant is at its best in the early
evening, especially at sunset.
9.7km (6 miles) northwest of Tralee, Kilfenora, Fenit, County Kerry. & 066/713-6164. Reservations recom-
mended. Main courses €15–€30 ($18–$36). AE, DC, MC, V. Bar food daily 12:30–10pm; restaurant daily
6–9:30pm.
M O D E R AT E
Restaurant David Norris MODERN CONTINENTAL One of the
best things to have happened to Tralee in the past few years is the return of
David Norris to his hometown. Set in the pretty upstairs of Ivy House in the
TRALEE 351
middle of Tralee, his restaurant has caused quite a stir in foodie circles since it
opened. Come here for the kind of modern comfort food of which you never
tire: homemade fettuccine with wild mushrooms, chile-roasted pineapple and
duck confit, and a luscious slab of Kerry beef with colcannon. Everything is
made with precision and care, and there’s nary a careless note. Service is good,
desserts worth saving room for––in short, this is the destination restaurant Tralee
needed all those years.
Ivy House, Ivy Terrace, Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/718-5654. Reservations necessary. Main courses
€15–€25 ($18–$30). AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri 5–9:30pm; Sat 7–9:30pm.
TRALEE AFTER DARK

Siamsa Tire, the National Folk Theatre of Ireland, is at Town Park (& 066/
712-3055; www.siamsatire.com). Founded in 1974, Siamsa (pronounced
Sheem-sha) offers a mixture of music, dance, and mime. Its programs focus on
three themes: Fado Fado/The Long Ago; Sean Agus Nua/Myth and Motion; and
Ding Dong Dedero/Forging the Dance. The scenes depict old folk tales and
farmyard activities, such as thatching a cottage roof, flailing sheaves of corn, and
twisting a sugan (straw) rope.
In addition to folk theater entertainment, Siamsa presents a full program of
drama and musical concerts (from traditional to classical) performed by visiting
amateur and professional companies. Admission averages €18 ($22) for adults,
€14 ($17) for seniors, students, and children. Performances take place Monday,
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday in May and from September to mid-October;
Monday to Thursday and Saturday in June; and Monday to Saturday in July and
August. Curtain time is 8:30pm. Call ahead for reservations.
PUBS
An Blascaod (The Blasket Inn) Named for the Blasket Islands, this pub has
a lovely modern facade and interior, and a stark red-and-black color scheme.
Inside, there’s a two-story atrium with an open fireplace, plus shelves lined with
old books and plates. Castle St., Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/712-3313.
Harty’s Lounge Bar This pub is celebrated as the original meeting house
where the Rose of Tralee festival was born. It is also known for its traditional pub
grub, such as steak and kidney pie, shepherd’s pie, and Irish stew. 30 Lower Castle
St., Tralee, County Kerry. & 066/712-5385.
Kirby’s Olde Brogue Inn This pub has a barnlike layout, with an interior
that incorporates agricultural instruments, farming memorabilia, and rush-work
tables and chairs. There’s excellent pub grub, specializing in steaks, as well as tra-
ditional music and folk ballads when the right people show up. Rock St., Tralee,
County Kerry. & 066/712-3221.
Oyster Tavern The nicest location of any pub in the Tralee area belongs to
this tavern, just 4.8km (3 miles) west of downtown, overlooking Tralee Bay. The
pub grub available includes seafood soups and platters. Fenit Rd., The Spa, Tralee,
County Kerry. & 066/713-6102.
10
The Mouth of the Shannon:
Limerick & Clare
I f you’re one of the millions of visitors
arriving at Shannon Airport, you’ll be
with a constant stream of tourists to
prove it, while the Burren, also in
at the doorstep of three counties: Lim- County Clare, is a unique spectacle,
erick, Clare, and Galway. Unlike Gal- with seldom a tour bus in sight.
way (the county and the town), We’ll leave Galway aside for now
Limerick and Clare, for all that they (we’ll get to it in chapters 11, “Galway
have to offer, are not principal tourist City,” and 12, “Out from Galway”).
destinations—but neither are they This chapter focuses on its surprising
well-kept secrets. For instance, the western neighbors in the hope of
Cliffs of Moher in County Clare are encouraging you to explore beyond
one of the natural wonders of Europe the bus-beaten track.
1 Limerick City & Environs

Limerick is 24km (15 miles) E of Shannon Airport, 198km (123 miles) SW of Dublin, 105km (65 miles) N of
Cork, 111km (69 miles) NE of Killarney, and 105km (65 miles) S of Galway
Situated along the midwest coast of Ireland, Limerick is the third-largest city in
the Republic, with a population approaching 80,000. As a port on the River
Shannon, Limerick has been a city of strategic and commercial importance since
its beginnings as a Viking settlement in the 10th century.
If you’ve read Frank McCourt’s best-selling novel, Angela’s Ashes, you may
envision Limerick as a sprawling, struggling, hard-working city with limited
resources. But that’s only part of the picture. In recent years, it’s been shaking off
its reputation for high unemployment and general neglect and is reemerging as
a city revitalized by new industries and impressive renovation projects. In par-
ticular, Limerick’s recently developed riverside cultural and historic area, the
Medieval Heritage Precinct on King’s Island, has considerable appeal both by
day and by night, when the 13th-century King John’s Castle is floodlit. Don’t
miss the excellent Hunt Museum, which houses the best collection of Bronze
Age, Celtic, and medieval treasures outside Dublin. The Limerick City Gallery
of Art is well worth a visit for its excellent permanent collection, which includes
works by Jack B. Yeats. Limerick has also seen a resurgence in the number of
stylish cafes and fine restaurants serving a range of different cuisines. After dark,
you can head for one of the city’s lively pubs or take in a play at the well-known
Belltable Arts Centre. This is a time of renaissance for this proud city, which
has known such a turbulent past.
The countryside around Limerick has a number of interesting sights. South-
west of Limerick, the village of Adare is worth a visit, as are Glin Castle, Lough
Gur, and Rathkeale. See “Side Trips from Limerick City,” at the end of this sec-
tion, for suggestions.

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ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From the United States, Aer Lingus, Continental, and
Delta Airlines operate regularly scheduled flights into Shannon Airport, off the
Limerick-Ennis road (N18), County Clare (& 061/712000; www.shannon
airport.com), 24km (15 miles) west of Limerick. Domestic flights from Dublin
and overseas flights from Britain and the Continent are available from a range of
carriers. (See “Getting There,” in chapter 2, for all the airlines’ toll-free numbers
and websites.) A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about €20 ($24).
Bus Eireann (& 061/313333; www.buseireann.ie) provides bus service from
Shannon Airport to Limerick’s Railway Station. The fare is €5.20 ($6.25). Bus
services from all parts of Ireland come into Limerick’s Colbert Station, Parnell
Street.
Irish Rail operates direct trains from Dublin, Cork, and Killarney, with con-
nections from other parts of Ireland. They arrive at Limerick’s Colbert Station,
Parnell Street (& 061/315555; www.irishrail.ie).
Limerick City can be reached on N7 from the east and north; N20, N21,
N24, and N69 from the south; and N18 from the west and north.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Limerick Tourism Centre is on Arthur’s
Quay, Limerick (& 061/317522). It is open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm,
Saturday 9:30am to 1pm, with expanded and weekend hours in summer. Ask for a
free copy of the Shannon Region Visitors Guide, which is packed with helpful infor-
mation about activities and events in Limerick and the surrounding areas.
354 CHAPTER 10 . THE MOUTH OF THE SHANNON: LIMERICK & CLARE
A seasonal tourist office is open March to November in the Adare Heritage

Centre, Main Street, Adare (& 061/396666).
For good all-around visitor information on the Web, see www.visitlimerick.
com or www.limerick.com.
GETTING AROUND Bus Eireann (& 061/313333) operates local bus
service around Limerick and its environs; the flat fare is €1 ($1.20). Buses
depart from Colbert Station, Parnell Street.
Taxis line up outside Colbert Station, at hotels, and along Thomas and Cecil
streets, off O’Connell Street. To reserve a taxi, call Economy Taxis (& 061/
411422), Fixed Price Taxis (& 061/417777), or Top Cabs (& 061/417417).
Driving around Limerick can be a little confusing because of the profusion of
one-way streets—it’s best to park your car and walk to see the sights. You might
want to drive to King’s Island for the Medieval Heritage Project, which includes
King John’s Castle and the other historic sights (there’s a free parking lot oppo-
site the castle). If you must park downtown, head for the lot at Arthur’s Quay,
which is convenient to sightseeing and shopping, and well signposted. Parking
is €1.30 ($1.55) per hour.
If you need to rent a car in Limerick, contact Alamo/Treaty Rent-A-Car
(& 061/363663; www.carhire.ie) or Irish Car Rental (& 061/328328;
www.irishcarrentals.com). Most major international car-rental firms maintain
desks at Shannon Airport (see the “County Clare” section, later in this chapter).
The best way to get around Limerick is to walk. Follow the signposted
“Tourist Trail” to see most of the city’s main attractions; a booklet outlining the
trail is available at the tourist office and in bookshops.
FAST FACTS If you need a drugstore, try Hogan’s Pharmacy, 45 Upper
William St. (& 061/415195). After-hours service is available by calling
& 088/526800.
In an emergency, dial & 999. St. John’s Hospital is on St. John’s Square
(& 061/415822). The local Garda Headquarters is on Henry Street (& 061/
212400).
The General Post Office is at 39 Upper William St. (& 061/409805).
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Hunt Museum The Hunt Museum is housed in the tastefully restored
Old Custom House, the finest 18th-century building in Limerick. The facade is
a reduced copy of the Petit Trianon at Versailles. The museum’s 2,000-work col-
lection of ancient, medieval, and modern treasures—the finest in Ireland outside
of Dublin’s National Museum—includes antiquities and art objects from
Europe and Ireland; ancient Irish metalwork; and medieval bronzes, ivories, and
enamels. The late John and Gertrude Hunt, antiquarians and art historians, pre-
sented the collection to the Irish nation. The museum has a shop and an attrac-
tive restaurant that serves snacks and full meals.
The Custom House, Rutland St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/312833. www.ul.ie/~hunt. Admission
€6.50 ($7.85) adults, €5.25 ($6.30) students and seniors, €3.20 ($3.85) children, €15 ($18) families.
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 2–5pm.
King John’s Castle Strategically built on the banks of the Shannon

River, this royal fortress is the centerpiece of Limerick’s historic area. It is said to
date from 1210, when King John of England visited and was so taken with the
site that he ordered a “strong castle” to be built here. It survives today as one of
the oldest examples of medieval architecture in Ireland, with rounded gate tow-
ers and curtain walls. Thanks to a recent $7-million restoration, the interior
LIMERICK CITY & ENVIRONS 355
includes an authentic archaeological excavation dating from Hiberno-Norse

times, as well as gallery displays and an audiovisual presentation portraying Lim-
erick’s 800 years of history. On the outside, the impressive facade has battlement
walkways along the castle’s walls and towers, offering sweeping views of the city.
It is floodlit at night.
Nicholas St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/411201. Admission €7.50 ($9.05) adults, €5.95 ($7.15)
seniors and students, €4.50 ($5.40) children, €18 ($21) families. Apr–Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm (last admis-
sion 4:30pm).
Limerick City Gallery of Art Expanded and renovated in 1998 to

occupy the whole neo-Romanesque Carnegie Building (1903), this gallery is in
the People’s Park, on the corner of Mallow Street. It houses a permanent collec-
tion of 18th-, 19th-, and 20th-century art, including some fine paintings by Ire-
land’s most celebrated artist, Jack B. Yeats. It also plays host to a wide range of
traveling contemporary-art exhibitions, including touring exhibitions from the
Irish Museum of Modern Art. On some evenings the gallery holds literary read-
ings or traditional- or classical-music concerts at 8pm.
Pery Sq., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/310633. Free admission. Mon–Wed and Fri 10am–6pm; Thurs
10am–7pm; Sat 11am–6pm; Sun 2–6pm.
Limerick Museum This museum provides an insight into the history of

Limerick. It contains displays on Limerick’s archaeology, natural history, civic
treasures, and traditional crafts of lace, silver, furniture, and printing. Also on
view are historical paintings, maps, prints, and photographs. Of particular inter-
est are the city’s original charters from Oliver Cromwell and King Charles II and
the civic sword presented by Queen Elizabeth I.
Castle Lane, at Nicholas St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/417826. Free admission. Tues–Sat
10am–1pm and 2:15–5pm.
St. Mary’s Cathedral Founded in the 12th century on a hill on King’s

Island, this site was originally home to a palace belonging to one of the kings of
Munster, Donal Mor O’Brien. In 1172 he donated it for use as a church. The
building contains many fine antiquities, including a Romanesque doorway, a
pre-Reformation stone altar, and a huge stone coffin lid said to be that of Donal
Mor O’Brien himself. Features added in later years include 15th-century mis-
ericords (supports for standing worshippers) with carvings in black oak, and a
reredos (ornamental partition) on the high altar carved by the father of Irish
patriot Patrick Pearse. St. Mary’s is now a Church of Ireland property.
Bridge St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/310293. Donation €1.30 ($1.50). June–Sept Mon–Sat
9am–5pm; Oct–May Mon–Sat 9am–1pm.
SHOPPING
Shopping hours in Limerick are Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 5:30pm. Many
stores also stay open until 9pm on Thursday and Friday.
At the corner of Ellen and Wickham streets, in the heart of Limerick’s old
Irishtown, you’ll find the Milk Market, a venue that hosts a memorable
Farmer’s Market every Saturday morning from 8am to noon or 1pm. On Fri-
days, from roughly 11am to 4pm, this becomes an Arts and Crafts Market.
Monday to Saturday in the Milk Market you’ll find an informal bazaar of booths
and stands selling everything from pottery to potato chips.
Arthur’s Quay Centre With a striking four-story brick facade, this shopping
complex overlooks Arthur’s Quay Park and the Shannon River. It houses more
than three dozen shops and services, ranging from Irish handcrafts to fashions,
casual wear, shoes, music recordings, and books. Open Monday to Wednesday
9am to 7pm, Thursday and Friday 9am to 9pm, Saturday 9am to 6pm. Arthur’s
Quay, Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/419888.
Brown Thomas This is the Limerick branch of Ireland’s poshest department
store. It sells an array of Waterford crystal, Aran knitwear, Donegal tweeds, and
ready-to-wear clothing. O’Connell St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/417222.
Cruises Street Shopping Centre This is the centerpiece of Limerick’s
downtown shopping district. Taking an original city street, the developers spent
€22.9 million ($26 million) and turned it into an old-world village-style mall,
with a total of 55 retail outlets and 20 residential apartments and offices. Cruises
St. (off Patrick St.), Limerick, County Limerick. No phone.
Heirlooms Long established in downtown Limerick, this shop moved to a
larger space in the new Cruises Street Shopping Centre. Come here for a vast
stock of local collectibles, including old books and maps, dolls, puppets, and bis-
cuit tins, as well as frames, wood carvings, pottery, clocks, sculptures, jewelry,
and candles. 32A Cruises St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/419111.
Irish Handcrafts Dating back more than 100 years, this family-run business
specializes in products made by people from the Limerick area. The particular
emphasis is on women’s hand-knit and -loomed sweaters of all types, colors, and
styles. There are also linen and lace garments. 26 Patrick St., Limerick, County Limerick.
& 061/415504.
White Gold Irish Dresden figurines, the delicate porcelain pieces made at
nearby Drumcollogher, are the special attraction of this chic gift shop. Other
wares include fanciful European Christmas ornaments, intricate wind chimes,
and Hummels. 34 O’Connell St. (at Roches St.), Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/419977.
SPECTATOR SPORTS & OUTDOOR PURSUITS
FISHING Visitors are welcome to cast a line in the River Shannon for trout
and other freshwater fish. For information, licenses, permits, and equipment,
contact Steve’s Fishing and Shooting Store, 7 Denmark St. (& 061/413484).
Celtic Angling, in nearby Ballingarry, Adare (& 069/68202; www.celtic
angling.com), can provide daylong salmon-fishing excursions on the Shannon,
including pickup from Limerick City, equipment, licenses, and everything else
you need. A day tour costs €140 ($169) for one person or €160 ($193) for
groups of two to four people, plus €65 ($78) per person for tackle, licenses, per-
mits, and lunch.
GOLF The Limerick area has three 18-hole golf courses, including a champi-
onship par-72 parkland layout at the Limerick County Golf & Country Club,
Ballyneety (& 061/351881; www.limerickcounty.com), 8km (5 miles) east of
Limerick. It charges greens fees of €40 ($48) Monday to Thursday, €60 ($75)
Friday to Sunday. The par-70 inland course at the Limerick Golf Club, Bally-
clough (& 061/415146; www.limerickgolfclub.com), 4.8km (3 miles) south of
Limerick, has greens fees of €50 ($60) Monday to Thursday, €60 ($75) Friday
to Sunday. The par-71 inland course at Castletroy Golf Club, Castletroy,
County Limerick (& 061/335753), 4.8km (3 miles) east of Limerick, charges
greens fees of €40 ($48) weekdays, €50 ($60) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING County Limerick’s fertile fields provide good turf
for horseback riding. Rates run about €22 ($27) per hour. The Clonshire
Equestrian Centre, Adare, County Limerick (& 061/396770; www.
clonshire.com), offers riding for all levels of ability, horsemanship classes, and
instruction for cross-country riding, dressage, and jumping. Clonshire is also

home to the Limerick Foxhounds; in the winter it’s a center for hunting in the
area. Per-hour rates average €20 ($24) for adults, €17 ($21) for students and
children. Riding and board packages are available.
WHERE TO STAY
M O D E R AT E
Castle Oaks House Set on 10 hectares (26 acres) of mature oak wood-
lands along the Shannon River, this two-story Georgian manor house is more
than 150 years old. In former lives, it has been a private residence and a convent.
Among the original fittings are classic bay windows, a decorative staircase, and
a sky-lit central dome. Vestiges from its convent days include stained-glass win-
dows and a chapel (now used as a banquet room). The comfortable guest rooms
are furnished with crown-canopy beds, soft pastel fabrics, and choice antiques
from the area. The suites are grand, with king-size beds and Jacuzzi tubs. If you
prefer self-catering, there’s a new three-bedroom house on the grounds available
for €400 to €850 ($380–$1,024) per week, depending on the season.
9.7km (6 miles) east of Limerick City, off Dublin rd. (N7), Castleconnell, County Limerick. & 800/223-6510
in the U.S. or 061/377666. Fax 061/377717. www.castleoaks.ie. 20 units. €140–€160 ($169–$193) double;
€180–€220 ($217–$265) suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Conti-
nental); bar; indoor pool; tennis court; gym. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
Limerick Ryan Value Smart decor and amenities combine to make this
place a particularly good value for the money. The hotel combines one of Lim-
erick’s oldest buildings, the 1780 Ardhu House, with a modern wing of guest
rooms. The public areas, part of the original house, are decorated in classic
Georgian style. Guest rooms are conservatively decorated but very comfortable
and well appointed.
Ardhu House, Ennis rd. (N18), Limerick, County Limerick. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 061/453922. Fax
061/326333. www.gresham-hotels.com. 181 units. €100–€120 ($120–$145) double. Rates include full
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); 2 bars; room service; laundry service; non-
smoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press, radio.
INEXPENSIVE
Jurys Inn Limerick Value The budget arm of the Jurys chain has a knack
for providing centrally situated, attractive, affordable accommodations in Ire-
land’s major cities. This property’s riverfront location is particularly appealing.
The river-facing rooms, especially on the upper floors, have splendid views of
the Shannon and the city’s historic area. If you can get a corner room, you’ll feel
positively spoiled. Rooms are tastefully contemporary and eminently functional,
with firm beds, large bathtubs, desks, and ample shelf and wardrobe space—
everything you need and very little you don’t. All rooms accommodate up to
three adults or two adults and two children.
Lower Mallow St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 800/843-3311 in the U.S. or 061/207000. Fax 061/400966.
www.jurys.com. 151 units. €80 ($96) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Discounted parking available at adjoining car
park. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, dataport,

Sarsfield Bridge Hotel Value On the leafy banks of the Shannon across
the Sarsfield Bridge, this contemporary-style, business traveler’s hotel is just a 3-
minute walk from O’Connell Street in the thick of the action. The up-to-date
guest rooms are spacious and practical, with conservative, mahogany-like furni-
ture and brass fixtures, and wide-windowed views of the gardens and river. The
hotel’s bar is a popular place to watch live sporting fixtures on enormous plasma
screens. Like so many business hotels, this one does everything right but lacks a
certain individuality.
Sarsfield Bridge Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/317179. Fax 061/317182. 55 units. €80–€90
($96–$108) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurants (interna-
tional); bar; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
Shannon Grove In a quiet residential area a mile north of the city center,
this modern two-story guesthouse, surrounded by lovely gardens, is just a .4km
(quarter-mile) walk from a curve of the Shannon River. The guest rooms have
contemporary furnishings and firm beds. There are two cheery breakfast rooms
and outdoor seating in fine weather. Proprietor Noreen Marsh provides a par-
ticularly warm welcome and can help you plan an insider’s tour of Limerick. If
you don’t have a car, you can take the local bus service that stops nearby.
Athlunkard, Killaloe Rd. (R463), Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/345756. Fax 061/343838. 9 units. €75
($90) double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. MC, V. Closed Dec 15–Jan 6. Amenities: TV lounge. In room:
Tea/coffeemaker.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
Green Onion Caffé MODERN CONTINENTAL There are two
don’t-miss stops on any foodie’s visit to the Limerick area: The first is The Wild
Geese (see “Where to Dine Around County Limerick,” later in this chapter),
and this is the second. This is a restaurant of the moment in Limerick City, and
a shining light in the still-working-on-it renaissance of this culinary landscape.
Jeff Gloux is an extremely talented chef and his down-to-earth cooking is all
about letting the wonderful flavors of natural ingredients shine through. His
wild-mushroom-and-garlic soup packs a tremendous punch of flavor—but
then, nothing is bland here. For a main course, go for comfort food—perhaps
beef-and-Guinness stew (again with loads of mushrooms) or a perfect pasta with
pesto. Add a great wine list, a terrific staff, fun background music, and you’ll see
why Limerick folks just can’t get enough of the Green Onion. Come for lunch
before or after visiting the Hunt Museum, just across the street. Or better yet,
book for dinner, when the place is buzzing.
Old Town Hall Building, Rutland St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/400710. Reservations recommended
for dinner. Main courses €12–€23 ($14–$28). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–10pm.
M O D E R AT E
Copper and Spice INDIAN/THAI This is the best Indian restaurant in
Ireland. The mod dining room sets a brilliant backdrop for Seema Conroy’s
superb cooking: terrific breads, tantalizing curries, wonderful veggie pakoras.
Whatever your favorite Indian dish, she does it better than you’ve ever had it. A
fabulous addition to Limerick’s food scene, with excellent service and a friendly
staff to boot.
2 Cornmarket Row, Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/313620. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€9–€16 ($11–$19). AE, MC, V. Wed–Fri 12:30–2pm; daily 5–10:30pm.
Piccola Italia ITALIAN Its name means “Little Italy,” and this basement
ristorante brings a touch of the Mediterranean to the heart of Limerick. The
tables have traditional trattoria red-and-white checked tablecloths, and Chianti
baskets hang from the ceiling. The menu reads like the “best of Italy,” from
mushroom soup, cannelloni, lasagna, and fettuccine to scampi, salmon alla
griglia, and steak pizzaiola.
55 O’Connell St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/315844. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€10–€21 ($12–$25). Mon–Sat 6–11pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Patrick Punch’s INTERNATIONAL This popular pub-restaurant is on
the main road on the southern edge of town, surrounded by gardens, ancient
trees, and lots of parking. It has a three-tier lounge area, a glass-enclosed con-
servatory overlooking the gardens, and a clubby main room decorated with
Tiffany-style lamps, dark woods, an open turf fireplace, and old photos of movie
stars. The menu is equally varied, with dishes such as filet of beef Wellington,
chicken Cleopatra (with lemon and prawn sauce), and vegetable lasagna.
O’Connell Ave. (N20), Punchs Cross, Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/229588. Reservations recommended
for dinner. Main courses €9–€11 ($11–$13). MC, V. Daily 10:30am–11:30pm.
LIMERICK CITY AFTER DARK

PUBS
The Locke Established in 1724, this is one of Limerick’s oldest and most pop-
ular pubs, situated beside the east bank of the Shannon, just off Bridge Street.
It’s what’s known in Ireland as a “black-and-white” pub—meaning a white
facade with black trim. It’s a lovely, rambling sort of place, with lots open fires
roaring, and nooks and crannies for quiet conversations over a pint. Although it
started as a haven for sea captains visiting the port, today it’s known for its tra-
ditional Irish music—played on Sunday and Tuesday year-round. It’s a particu-
larly good place to come on a summer’s evening, when there is outdoor riverside
seating and little Japanese lanterns strung along a cobbled walkway to lend a
romantic, festive air. The pub has recently added a comfortable restaurant that
offers seafood specialties. 2A–3 Georges Quay, Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/413733.
Nancy Blake’s Nancy’s hasn’t changed for years—flock wallpaper and lit-
tle to hide that the room was once someone’s drawing room. Nancy is still here,
reigning over the place with a gentle hand, as it’s been since anyone can remem-
ber. It’s a cozy, old-world pub known for its free traditional-music sessions, year-
round Sunday to Wednesday at 9pm. An added attraction, weather permitting,
is the outdoor beer garden. 19 Upper Denmark St., just off Patrick St., Limerick, County Lim-
erick. & 061/416443.
Vintage Club In one of Limerick’s older sections near the quays, this pub
used to be a wine cellar, and the decor reflects it: barrel seats and tables, oak
casks, and dark-paneled walls. A new attractive feature is the indoor/outdoor
beer garden. 9 Ellen St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/410694.
W.M. South’s This timeless old pub has a black-and-white checkerboard
floor, a high, white marble bar, and a succession of Victorian mahogany arches
behind the bar that frames bottles, mirrors, and curios. The snug, off to the side,
is lined with milk glass, and there’s a sky-lit back room with hunting tapestries
on the wall. Oh, and one other little thing: It also has a reputation for pouring
the best Guinness in town. Top of O’Connell St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/318850.
THE PERFORMING ARTS

Belltable Arts Centre A fine program of dramas, musicals, and concerts are
staged year-round at this midcity theater and entertainment center. The summer
program includes weeks of professional Irish theater. By day, the building is
open for gallery exhibits, showing the works of modern Irish artists as well as
local crafts. There is a bar and a coffee shop. It’s a 5-minute walk from the bus
and train station. Most shows run Monday to Saturday at 8pm, but call ahead
to confirm show times. 69 O’Connell St., Limerick, County Limerick. & 061/319709. Tickets
€15–€20 ($18–$24).
University Concert Hall On the grounds of the University of Limerick, just
northeast of the city, this 1,000-seat hall offers a broad program of national and
international solo stars, variety shows, and ballet. It also books the Irish Cham-
ber Orchestra, RTE Concert Orchestra, University of Limerick Chamber
Orchestra, Limerick Singers, and European Community Orchestra. The
monthly list of events is available from the tourist office. Most performances
start at 8pm, but call ahead for details. University of Limerick, Plassey, County Limerick.
& 061/331549. www.uch.ie. Tickets €20–€25 ($24–$30).
SIDE TRIPS FROM LIMERICK CITY
Dotted about the County Limerick countryside, within a 40km (25-mile) radius
of Limerick City, are many historic and cultural attractions. A particularly nice
excursion is to the lovely village of Adare , one of Ireland’s most beautiful
places. It’s full of thatched-roof and Tudor-style houses, beautiful gardens, and
ivy-covered medieval churches that occupy wooded surroundings on both sides
of the street beside the River Maigue. Here are a few suggestions of things to do
and see around the county:
Adare Heritage Centre Those who want to linger and learn more about
Adare can drop in on this heritage center. Housed in a stone building with a tra-
ditional courtyard, it offers a walk-through display on Adare’s colorful history,
along with a model of the town as it looked in medieval times. There is also a
20-minute audiovisual presentation illustrating the many facets of Adare today.
The center also houses a cafe, craft shop, knitwear shop, and library.
Main St., Adare, County Limerick. & 061/396666. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) children, €15
($18) families. Daily 9am–6pm.
Foynes Flying Boat Museum For aviation buffs, this museum is a must.
This is the “first” Shannon Airport, the predecessor to the modern runways of
Shannon Airport in County Clare, restored and reopened as an attraction. It
commemorates an era begun on July 9, 1939, when Pan Am’s luxury flying boat
Yankee Clipper landed at Foynes, marking the first commercial passenger flight
on the direct route between the United States and Europe. On June 22, 1942,
Foynes was the departure point for the first nonstop commercial flight from
Europe to New York. This is also where bartender Joe Sheridan invented Irish
coffee in 1942. (At a festival each Aug, there’s a contest to select the world Irish-
coffee-making champion.) The complex includes a 1940s-style cinema and cafe,
the original terminal building, and the radio and weather rooms with original
transmitters, receivers, and Morse code equipment.
Foynes, County Limerick. & 069/65416. www.flyingboatmuseum.com. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €4
($4.80) seniors and students, €3 ($3.60) children, €14 ($17) families. MC, V. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm.
Closed Nov–Mar. 37km (23 miles) east of Limerick on N69.
Glin Castle Lilies of the valley and ivy-covered ash, oak, and beech trees
line the driveway leading to this gleaming-white castle, home to the knights of
Glin for the past 700 years. On the south bank of the Shannon Estuary, the
sprawling estate contains 160 hectares (400 acres) of gardens, farmlands, and
forests. Although there were earlier residences on the site, the present home was
built in 1785. It is more of a Georgian house than a castle, with added crenella-
tions and Gothic details. The current (29th) knight of Glin, Desmond FitzGer-
ald, a noted historian and preservationist, maintains a fine collection of
18th-century Irish furniture and memorabilia. The house features elaborate plas-
terwork, Corinthian columns, and a unique double-ramp flying staircase. It’s pro-
tected by three sets of toy fort lodges, one of which houses a craft shop and cafe.
In addition, quite royal accommodations can be arranged for €280 to €440
($337–$530) double, with an additional €48 ($58) per person for dinner.
Limerick-Tarbert rd. (N69), County Limerick. & 068/34173. www.glincastle.com. Admission (for nonguests)
to house and gardens €7 ($8.45) adults, €3.50 ($4.20) children. Tours daily 11am–2pm. Approximately 40km
(25 miles) east of Limerick City.
Irish Palatine Heritage Centre Ireland’s unique links with Germany are
the focus of this museum, 29km (18 miles) south of Limerick off the main road.
Reflecting on the history of the several hundred Palatine families who emigrated
from Germany and settled in this part of Ireland in 1709, it includes an exten-
sive display of artifacts, photographs, and graphics. In addition, the museum
seeks to illustrate the Palatines’ innovative contributions to Irish farming life and
their formative role in the development of world Methodism.
Limerick-Killarney rd. (N21), Rathkeale, County Limerick. & 069/63511. www.irishpalatines.org. Admission
€3 ($3.60) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors, €1.50 ($1.80) students, €7 ($8.45) families. June–Aug Mon–Sat
10am–noon, daily 2–5pm, and by appointment.
Lough Gur Visitor Centre Lough Gur is one of Ireland’s principal

archaeological sites. The area was occupied continuously from the Neolithic
period to late medieval times, and the site includes the foundations of a small
farmstead built about A.D. 900, a lake island dwelling built between A.D. 500
and 1000, a wedge-shaped tomb that was a communal grave around 2500 B.C.,
and the Grange Stone Circle, the largest and finest of its kind in Ireland. There’s
free access to its lake and shores, which make a great place to explore and have
a picnic.
The museum and audiovisual program, however, are worth neither the time
nor the fee. It’s better to explore on your own and use your imagination.
11km (7 miles) SE of Limerick City on R512, Lough Gur, County Limerick. & 061/361511. Museum and
audiovisual presentation €4.50 ($5.40) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors and students, €2.95 ($3.60) children, €12
($14) families. Visitor Centre mid-May to Sept daily 10am–6pm (last admission 5:30pm); site open year-
round.
W H E R E T O S TAY A R O U N D C O U N T Y L I M E R I C K
Very Expensive
Adare Manor Conde Nast Traveler magazine’s readers voted this the
“Number One European Resort” in 2002. John Travolta may well agree, for he
hosted 24 of his family and friends for a golf holiday here last year. Most people
wouldn’t expect to find such a salubrious hotel in a village as tiny and secluded
as Adare, 16km (10 miles) south of Limerick, but Ireland is surprising, with lit-
tle gems tucked in all corners. This one is a 19th-century Tudor Gothic man-
sion, nestled on the banks of the River Maigue on an 336-hectare (840-acre)
estate. It recently added a full-service spa to its already impressive list of ameni-
ties. The former home of the earls of Dunraven, it has been masterfully restored
and refurbished as a deluxe resort, with original barrel-vaulted ceilings, 15th-
century carved doors, Waterford crystal chandeliers, ornate fireplaces, and
antiques-filled guest rooms (all nonsmoking). New two- to four-bedroom gar-
den town houses for families and larger groups are also available.
Adare, County Limerick. & 800/462-3273 in the U.S. or 061/396566. Fax 061/396124 or 201/425-0332 in
the U.S. www.adaremanor.com. 63 units. €215–€445 ($259–$536) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant (Continental); bar; indoor swimming pool; 18-hole Robert Trent Jones golf course; gym; sauna; spa
treatments; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry service; clay-pigeon shooting; fox hunting; nature
trails; riding stables; salmon and trout fishing. In room: TV, minibar, hair dryer, garment press.
Moderate
Dunraven Arms Value Lolling on the banks of the River Maigue, this
18th-century inn is a charming country retreat just 16km (10 miles) south of
Limerick City. The public areas have an old-world ambience, with open fire-
places and antiques. Half of the rooms are in the original house, half in a new
wing, and all are furnished in traditional style, with Victorian accents and period
pieces such as four-poster and half-tester beds, and big, beefy armoires. Gwyneth
Paltrow stayed here a few years ago while in Ireland for a friend’s wedding.
Warning: The pub here—all woody and sink-into-your-chair comfortable—is
habit-forming.
Main St. (N21), Adare, County Limerick. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 061/396633. Fax 061/396541.
www.dunravenhotel.com. 74 units. €150–€190 ($181–$229) double; €260 ($313) suite. Breakfast
€14–€16 ($17–$19). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor pool; gym; steam
room; massage; room service; beauty treatments. In room: TV, radio, hair dryer.
The Mustard Seed at Echo Lodge Finds Built in 1884 as a parochial

house, then later turned into a convent, this is now one of the best places to stay
and eat in Ireland. Every element of Daniel Mullane’s stylish restaurant-with-
rooms hits a delightfully whimsical aesthetic note, be it the color schemes and
carefully chosen artworks for each guest room or the perfect pieces of fruit hand-
picked and placed on a small silver plate. Mullane is a world traveler, and it
shows in the furnishings, colors, and fabrics, which all manage to come together
in harmony here, making the Mustard Seed a very relaxing place to stay. The
restaurant is a destination in itself, with a menu that presents a creative mix of
dishes, such as roulade of spinach encasing a pepper-and-tomato filling on warm
salad of tomato and spinach, or maybe chicken coated in honey, garlic, and
green peppercorns with scallion cream sauce. Organic produce and cheeses are
included in the food preparation, and the atmosphere is peaceful and lovely.
13km (8 miles) from Adare, off the Newcastle West rd. from the center of Ballingarry, County Limerick.
& 069/68508. www.mustardseed.ie. 18 units. €172 ($207) double. Fixed-price 4-course dinner €50 ($60).
AE, MC, V. Daily 7–9:30pm. Closed Feb 1–15. Amenities: Restaurant (modern Continental). In room: TV, hair
dryer.
Inexpensive
Abbey Villa Value Mrs. Elizabeth Jordan’s home is a modern bungalow in
a scenic setting, and she greets each guest warmly. Like the best of hosts, she will
invite you to sit and chat while working out the best travel routes, yet she also
recognizes the need to retire to your own room. The comfortable rooms are
tastefully decorated, and all have satellite TV and electric blankets.
Kildimo Rd., Adare, County Limerick. & 061/396113. Fax 061/396969. 6 units. €64 ($77) double. 50% dis-
count for children. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV, hair dryer.
COUNTY CLARE 363
WHERE TO DINE AROUND COUNTY LIMERICK

Expensive
The Wild Geese MODERN INTERNATIONAL This is Limerick’s
most exciting restaurant. After spending years making other people’s restaurants
absolutely fabulous, owner-chef David Foley struck out on his own and created
a gem in what many believe to be the prettiest town in Ireland. His trick? He
starts with superb local ingredients and puts his indelible stamp on them. His
cooking is complex, flavorful, and refined, yet always controlled and deliberate.
His duck confit, which comes served on won tons with sesame dressing, is
absolutely superb, as is his Clare crabmeat soufflé or grilled salmon with tem-
pura of vegetables. In season, he does a fabulous wild pheasant stuffed with rose-
mary and currants. Desserts are to die for, service is impeccable, and the
atmosphere is always alive with the clink of glasses and the buzz of conversation.
What else could anyone want?
Rose Cottage, Adare, County Limerick. & 061/396451. Reservations required. Fixed-price dinners: 2-course
€30 ($36), 3-course €36 ($43). Main courses €25–€30 ($30–$36). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6:30–10pm.
Moderate
Inn Between INTERNATIONAL Tucked in a row of houses and shops,
this thatched-roof brasserie-style restaurant has a surprisingly airy sky-lit interior
dominated by warm red and yellow tones, and a back courtyard for outdoor
seating. Choices range from homemade soups and traditional dishes to more
innovative concoctions, such as medallions of beef filet with green-peppercorn
sauce, wild salmon on leek fondue with tomato-and-chive butter sauce, and the
classic Inn Between Burger, with homemade relish and french fries.
Main St., Adare, County Limerick. & 061/396633. Reservations recommended. Main courses €13–€22
($16–$27). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6:30–10:30pm; summer also 12:30–2:30pm.
Pubs Around County Limerick
Matt the Thrasher About 24km (15 miles) northeast of Limerick—and well
worth the drive—this roadside tavern is a replica of a 19th-century farmers’ pub.
A rustic, cottagelike atmosphere prevails, with antique furnishings, agricultural
memorabilia, traditional snugs (private rooms), and lots of cozy alcoves. A new
patio and small restaurant have been added recently, and there’s music on many
evenings. Dublin rd. (N7), Birdhill, County Tipperary. & 061/379227.
M. J. Finnegan’s Dating from 1776, this wonderfully restored and newly
renovated alehouse takes its name from James Joyce’s Finnegan’s Wake, and the
decor reflects a Joycean theme, albeit with appropriate Limerick overtones. Spe-
cial features include Irish ceili music on weekends, picnic tables for sitting by the
rose garden on warm summer days, and excellent fare. A recent winner of many
prestigious awards—including Black and White Pub of the Year, the Interna-
tional Dining Club Gold Award, and 1998 Pub of Distinction—Finnegan’s has
expanded into a full-service inn and restaurant. Dublin rd. (N7), about 8km (5 miles)
east of Limerick City, Annacotty, County Limerick. & 061/337338.
2 County Clare
Clare’s chief town (Ennis) is 67km (42 miles) S of Galway, 27km (17miles) NW of Shannon Airport, 37km (23
miles) NW of Limerick, 235km (147 miles) SW of Dublin, and 133km (83 miles) NW of Cork
After stepping off the plane at Shannon, your first sight of Ireland will be the
vistas of County Clare: rich green fields and rolling hills joined by the mean-
dering Shannon River. If you turn left off the main road, the barren, rocky
Atlantic coast awaits you; if you continue north, you’ll be heading into the his-
toric market town of Ennis and then to the Burren —rocky plains of
karst limestone.
Among the counties of Ireland, Clare is not a major celebrity on the tourist
trail. This isn’t just a pity, it’s a mystery. (The Irish, for their part, have always
been smitten.) Though less dramatic and less touristy than its neighbors, Kerry
and Galway, Clare boasts a dazzling coast, including the take-your-breath-away
Cliffs of Moher and the darling seaside summer resorts of Lahinch and Kilkee.
The county is a hotbed for traditional music, especially in the charming villages
of Doolin, Miltown Malby, Fanore, and Ennistymon. It’s the proud heir to a
number of impressive ancient sites and monuments, from the Poulnabrone
Dolmen to Bunratty Castle, with its better-than-you-would-think folk park.
The Burren’s magnificent lunarlike landscape, with its turloughs (limestone-
bedded lakes that take on water after rainfall, then dry up again), wildflowers,
and butterflies, and the birds of the cliffs from Hag’s Head to Loop Head all
contribute to Clare’s appeal.
COUNTY CLARE ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From the United States, Aer Lingus, Aeroflot, Conti-
nental, and Delta Airlines operate regularly scheduled flights into Shannon Air-
port, off the Limerick-Ennis road (N18), County Clare (& 061/471444;
www.shannonairport.com), 24km (15 miles) west of Limerick. Domestic flights
from Dublin and overseas flights from Britain and the Continent are available
from a range of carriers. See “Getting There” in chapter 2, “Planning Your Trip
to Ireland,” for the airlines’ phone numbers and websites.
Irish Rail provides service to Ennis Rail Station, Station Road (& 065/
684-0444; www.irishrail.ie), and Limerick’s Colbert Station, Parnell Street
(& 061/315555), 24km (15 miles) from Shannon.
Bus Eireann provides bus services from all parts of Ireland into Ennis Bus
Station, Station Road (& 065/682-4177; www.buseireann.ie), and other towns
in County Clare.
By car, County Clare can be reached on N18. Shannon Airport has offices of
the following international firms: Alamo (& 061/472342; www.carhire.ie),
Avis (& 061/715600; www.avis.ie), Budget (& 061/471361; www.budget.ie),
and Hertz (& 061/471739; www.hertz.ie). Several local firms also maintain
desks at the airport; among the most reliable is Dan Dooley Rent-A-Car
(& 061/471098; www.dan-dooley.ie).
From points south, County Clare can be reached directly, bypassing Limer-
ick, on the Tarbert-Killimer Car Ferry. It crosses the Shannon River from
Tarbert, County Kerry, to Killimer, County Clare. Trip time for the drive-
on/drive-off service is 20 minutes; no reservations are needed. Crossings from
Tarbert are on the half-hour; from Killimer, on the hour. Ferries operate April
to September, Monday to Saturday 7 or 7:30am to 9 or 9:30pm, Sunday 9 or
9:30am to 9 or 9:30pm; October to March, Monday to Saturday 7 or 7:30am
to 7 or 7:30pm, Sunday 10 or 10:30am to 7 or 7:30pm. Summer fares for cars
with passengers are €14 ($17) one-way, €22 ($27) round-trip. For more infor-
mation, contact Shannon Ferry Ltd., Killimer/Kilrush, County Clare (& 065/
905-3124; www.shannonferries.com). The Killimer Ferry terminal has a gift
shop and restaurant. Open daily 9am to 9pm.
VISITOR INFORMATION A tourist office is in the Arrivals Hall of Shannon
Airport (& 061/471644). Hours coincide with flight arrivals and departures.

Aillwee Cave 2 Galway 0 10 mi
Airport
Ballycasey Craft N
Ferry Route Galway Bay 0 10 km
& Design Centre 16 Black
Head
Sli
Bunratty Castle ev GALWAY
e
1
A
& Folk Park 18 AR
ug
AN Ballyvaughan
Bunratty Winery 19 3
ht
2
y
ISL
AN R477 BURREN
South
M
Burren Centre 4 DS R480 NATIONAL
Sound 6 5
ou
Burren College of Art 3 NORTHERN Doolin Lisdoonvarna PARK R352
R478
Burren Exposure 1 IRELAND Point 4 R460
Lough nta
Graney
ins
R481 Kilfenora
Burren Smokehouse 5 7 9 N18
Clare Heritage Centre 9 Dublin 8 Ennistymon Corofin Mountshannon

h
Liscannor Lahinch g
COUNTY
Bay 10 CL
C L AR
ARE er
Cliffs of Moher 7
ag
Lough D
CLARE Miltown
rn
Craggaunowen Bronze- 11
e
REPUBLIC OF Malbay 12 Ennis

Mal B
Age Project 14 IRELAND Bay 14 e
Mutton Slieve Callan
Cratloe Woods House 20 13 Quin i ev
Island Killaloe N7
Sl
de Valera Library N67 Newmarket-on-
R473
Fergus
& Museum 13 17 TIPPERARY
Shannon 16 Sixmilebridge
N68
Doolin Ferry 6 Airport
R463
Kilkee Shannon 18
Dysert O’Dea Castle 10 20
Killimer Bunratty 19
Ennis Friary 12 Kilrush Ferryport nno
n
15 Sha
R iver Limerick
Kilrush Heritage Centre 15 Scattery Killimer
Knappogue Castle 17 Island
N24
Lahinch Seaworld Tarbert
Loop
& Leisure Centre 8 Head Mouth
Shannon Crystal 11 of the L IME
IMERICK
Shannon N20
Spa Wells Centre 4
KERRY
KERRY N21
Tipperary
365
County Clare
Tralee
The Ennis Tourist Office, Authors Row, Ennis, County Clare (& 065/
682-8366), is about 1.6km (1 mile) south of town on the main N18 road.
Open year-round Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm, with
weekend and extended hours April to October.
Seasonal tourist offices in County Clare are at the Cliffs of Moher (& 065/
708-1171); O’Connell Street, Kilkee (& 065/905-6112); and Town Hall, Kil-
rush (& 065/905-1577). These offices are usually open May or June to early
September.
You can also find visitor information at www.county-clare.com.
FROM SHANNON AIRPORT TO ENNIS
The 24km (15-mile) road from Shannon Airport to Ennis, a well-signposted
section of the main Limerick-Galway road (N18), is one of the most traveled
routes in Ireland. It has the feel of a superhighway—a feel you won’t often
encounter in Ireland, and a misleading introduction to the land of boreens
(country, single-lane roads). The whole point in Ireland, unless you know
exactly where you must arrive in a hurry, is to turn off the straight-and-wide and
get lost.
Now that you’re on N18, turn right and proceed for 8km (5 miles). The vil-
lage of Bunratty is before you, with its 15th-century medieval castle and theme
park. Turn left, heading toward Ennis, and you pass through the charming river
town of Newmarket-on-Fergus, home of Dromoland Castle.
The main town of County Clare, Ennis (pop. 19,000) is a compact enclave
of winding, narrow streets on the banks of the River Fergus. The original site
was an island on the river—hence the name Ennis, an Anglicized form of the
Gaelic word inis, meaning “island.” Easily explored on foot, Ennis offers a walk-
ing trail developed by the Ennis Urban District Council. A leaflet outlining the
route is available free throughout the town.
ATTRACTIONS
Ballycasey Craft & Design Centre Signposted within the airport com-
plex, 4.8km (3 miles) from the main terminal, en route to the main road, this
craft center is located in the courtyard of a restored Georgian manor house. The
workshops feature handcrafted items ranging from pottery, jewelry, and metal-
work to knitwear and fashions. You can watch the artisans as they work and
learn more about their trades.
Airport rd. (N19), Shannon Airport, County Clare. & 061/362105. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm.
Bunratty Castle and Folk Park Long before you reach the village of
Bunratty, vistas of this striking 15th-century fortress will stand out along the
main road from the airport. Nestled beside the O’Garney River, Bunratty Cas-
tle (1425) is Ireland’s most complete medieval castle. The ancient stronghold has
been carefully restored, with authentic furniture, armorial stained glass, tapes-
tries, and works of art. By day, the building’s inner chambers and grounds are
open for public tours; at night, the castle’s Great Hall serves as a candlelit setting
for medieval banquets and entertainment (see “Where to Dine,” later in this sec-
tion).
Bunratty Castle is the focal point of an 8-hectare (20-acre) theme park, Bun-
ratty Folk Park. Don’t just write it off as a giant cliché; it’s actually done very
well. The re-creation of a typical 19th-century Irish village includes thatched
cottages, farmhouses, and an entire village street, with school, post office, pub,
COUNTY CLARE 367
grocery store, print shop, and hotel—all open for browsing and shopping. Fresh
scones are baked in the cottages, and craftspeople ply such trades as knitting,
weaving, candle making, pottery, and photography.
Limerick-Ennis rd. (N18), Bunratty, County Clare. & 061/360788. Admission €11 ($13) adults, €8.50 ($10)
students and seniors, €5.95 ($7.50) children, €26 ($31) families. Daily 9:30am–5:30pm.
Bunratty Winery Housed in a coach house dating from 1816, this winery
produces mead, a medieval drink made from honey, fermented grape juice, water,
matured spirits, and a selection of herbs. Long ago, it was served by the jugful at
regal gatherings and weddings. In fact, custom required that a bride and groom
continue to drink mead for one full moon to increase the probability of a happy
marriage. (Some speculate that this is where the term honeymoon came from.)
Today the Bunratty Winery produces mead primarily for consumption at Bun-
ratty Castle’s medieval-style banquets. Visitors are welcome to stop by the work-
ing winery, watch the production in progress, and taste the brew. Also available
is traditional Irish poteen, the first of this heady potato moonshine to be legally
made and bottled in Ireland since it was banned in 1661.
Bunratty, County Clare. & 061/362222. Free admission. Daily 9:30am–5:30pm.
Craggaunowen Bronze-Age Project Overrated Making use of an actual castle,

crannóg (fortified island), and ring fort, the Craggaunowen Project has attempted
to reconstruct and present glimpses of Ireland’s ancient past, from the Neolithic
period to the Christian Middle Ages. A special glass house has been created to
exhibit Tim Severin’s sea-proven replica of the curragh in which Brendan and his
brother monks may have sailed to America in the 5th century. This project must
have been launched with great vision and enthusiasm, but much of the original
wind seems to have left its sails. As a “living history” project, it is currently on life
support. The possibilities here are exciting, but the reality is disappointing.
About 16km (10 miles) from Ennis, signposted off R469, Quin, County Clare. & 061/367178. Admission €7
($8.45) adults, €5.60 ($67) seniors, students, and children, €17 ($20) families. AE, DC, MC, V. Mid-Mar to Oct
Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Last admission 5pm.
Cratloe Woods House This 17th-century house is a fine example of a long-

house, a type of Irish architecture that’s almost obsolete. Steeped in history and
long associated with the O’Brien clan, who trace their ancestry back to Brian
Boru, the house is still lived in. It’s filled with family portraits, works of art, and
curios, and the grounds feature a collection of horse-drawn farming machinery.
The primeval Garranon Oak Wood, which provided timbers for the Westmin-
ster Hall in London, is also part of the estate. Note: Admissions are by appoint-
ment only, so call ahead.
Cratloe, County Clare. & 061/327028. Admission €3.20 ($3.85) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors and students,
€1.30 ($1.55) children. Mon–Sat 2–6pm. Closed mid-Sept to May.
de Valera Library & Museum This museum and library, housed in a ren-
ovated 19th-century Presbyterian church, pays tribute to Ireland’s American-born
freedom fighter and president, Eamon de Valera (1882–1975). It contains many
of de Valera’s personal possessions, including his car. There is also an art collec-
tion and interesting area relics, such as a door from a Spanish Armada galleon that
sank off the Clare coast in 1588 at a place now known as Spanish Point. A bronze
statue of de Valera stands several blocks away at the Ennis Courthouse.
Harmony Row, off Abbey St., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/684-6353. Free admission. Mon and Wed–Thurs
10am–5pm; Tues and Fri 10am–8pm; Sat 10am–2pm.
Knowing Your Castles

Ireland, as even the most casual visitor will notice, has no shortage of
stones. When the first Irish farmers began to turn over the soil, the
stones merely got in their way. Eventually, they put the stones to use,
to build walls.
The earliest stone fortifications in Ireland—round forts, often on
hilltops—date from the Iron Age, sometime after 500 B.C. Dún Aengus
on the Aran Islands, Staigue Fort in County Kerry, and the newly
restored Lisnagun Ring Fort are among the survivors of as many as
30,000 stone forts that once protected the Irish from each other.
Later, in the early Christian period, the centers of Irish civilization—
the monastic communities—came under attack from Vikings. Round
towers that climbed up to 30m (100 ft.) were constructed to lift life,
limb, and everything else precious out of harm’s reach. The flaw with
this strategy was that it depended on the enemy’s going away, like a
dog that tires of waiting for a treed cat to come down. Vikings, how-
ever, had patience. They tended to stay and burn or starve the monks
down from their towers.
Next came the Normans, who constructed their castles with massive
rectangular keeps. Trim Castle in County Meath and Carrickfergus Cas-
tle in County Antrim are impressive reminders of Norman clout. Cahir
Castle in County Tipperary—with eight towers in its encircling battle-
ments—has no equal in Ireland for sheer scale. Then came the tower
house, a fortified residence. Bunratty Castle in County Clare and Dun-
guaire Castle in County Galway are splendidly restored examples of
this kind of “safe house,” which remained in vogue for several cen-
turies. Wealthy merchants and others with less to protect built semi-
fortified mansions, of which a well-preserved example is Rothe House
in Kilkenny.
Nearly all of the above might loosely be called “castles.” Even today
we say that a man’s home is his castle—a point now made with dead-
bolts, motion detectors, and alarm systems.
Ennis Friary Founded in 1241, this Franciscan abbey, a famous seat of

learning in medieval times, made Ennis a focal point of western Europe for
many years. Records show that in 1375 it buzzed with the activity of no fewer
than 350 friars and 600 students. Although it was finally forced to close in 1692
and thereafter fell into ruin, the abbey still contains many interesting sculpted
tombs, decorative fragments, and carvings, including the famous McMahon
tomb. The nave and chancel are the oldest parts of the friary, but other struc-
tures, such as the 15th-century tower, transept, and sacristy, are also rich in
architectural detail.
Abbey St., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/682-9100. Admission €1.50 ($1.80) adults, €1 ($1.20) seniors, €.75
(90¢) children and students, €4.25 ($4.85) families. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm. Closed Nov to mid-May.
Knappogue Castle Midway between Bunratty and Ennis, this castle was
built in 1467 and was the home of the McNamara clan, who dominated the area
COUNTY CLARE 369
for more than 1,000 years. The original Norman structure includes elaborate
late-Georgian and Regency wings that were added in the mid–19th century.
Now fully restored, it is furnished with authentic 15th-century pieces. Like Bun-
ratty Castle, it serves as a venue for nightly medieval banquets in the summer
(see “Where to Dine,” below). We feel the admission price is too steep for what
is delivered.
Quin, County Clare. & 061/360788. Admission €11 ($13) adults, €8.50 ($10) seniors and students, €5.95
($7.50) children, €26 ($31) families. Daily 9:30am–5:30pm. Last admission 4:30pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
Shannon Crystal In the north end of town (on the way to Galway rd.), this
is the Shannon area’s own crystal-making enterprise, producing original hand-
cut glassware on the premises. The showroom is open to visitors, who can watch
demonstrations by the master cutter.
Sandfield Rd., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/682-1250. Free admission. Daily 9am–6pm.
SHOPPING
Avoca This pink, thatched-roof cottage shop is a branch of the legendary
County Wicklow–based Avoca Handweavers, the oldest company of its kind in
Ireland, dating from 1723. Like its sister shops, this one carries the colorful
tweeds and mohairs that have made the Avoca line famous, plus linen-cotton
fashions, stylish sweaters, tweed totes, and a wide array of hats. A coffee shop,
serving lunch and snacks, is on the premises. Limerick-Ennis rd. (N18), Bunratty, County
Clare. & 061/364029.
Belleek Shop In the heart of Ennis, overlooking the 16th-century Franciscan
Abbey, this newly expanded shop is more than 90 years old. It was the first
Belleek china outlet in southern Ireland. The shop is renowned for its extensive
range of Waterford, Galway, and Tipperary crystals, fine china, tableware, and
figurines. In recent years, it has expanded to include other Irish products, such
as handmade character dolls, turf crafts, pewter, jewelry, and fashionable tweeds.
36 Abbey St., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/682-9607. www.belleekshop.com.
Bunratty Village Mills On the grounds of the Bunratty Castle Hotel, there
are a dozen fine shops laid out like a 19th-century village. This includes a branch
of Tipperary Crystal; the wonderful housewares shop, Meadows & Byrne; Linen
Shop; Aran Shop, for knitwear; Celtic Sounds Music & Book Shop; Patio &
Garden Shop; Bargain Loft; and Bunratty Cottage, for clothing, gifts, and jew-
elry. Main St., Bunratty, Co. Clare. & 061/364321.
Custy’s Traditional Music Shop If you’d like to bring back the melodious
sounds of County Clare, this is the place to shop. The selection includes a full
range of traditional- and folk-music tapes and CDs, as well as books, photos,
paintings, and crafts pertaining to traditional music. You can also buy a fiddle,
a tin whistle, a banjo, a concertina, an accordion, or a flute. 2 Francis St., Ennis,
County Clare. & 065/682-1727.
Shannon Duty Free Shops Founded in 1947, this airport complex offers
one of the world’s best duty-free shops. It offers tax-free bargains to shoppers
passing through the airport. Most of the products are Irish, such as Waterford
crystal, Belleek china, Donegal tweeds, Aran knitwear, Connemara marble,
ceramic leprechauns, shillelaghs, and smoked salmon. You’ll also find such
names as Wedgwood, Bing and Grondahl, Lladró, Anri, Limoges, Orrefors, and
Pringle. Shannon Airport, County Clare. & 061/712000 or 061/712356.
HITTING THE LINKS

Where else but in Ireland can you step off a plane and right up to the first tee?
The 18-hole, par-72 championship course at the Shannon Golf Club, Shannon
Airport (& 061/471020; www.shannongolf.com), welcomes visitors. Greens
fees are €40 to €50 ($48–$60). Within .8km (a half-mile) of the main termi-
nal, it is surrounded by scenic vistas of County Clare, the Shannon River, and
the busy runways.
Other choices in the area include the par-71 Dromoland Golf Club, New-
market-on-Fergus, County Clare (& 061/368444; www.dromoland.ie), with
greens fees of €100 ($120), or €80 ($96) for guests at the castle hotel. The par-
71 parkland course at the Ennis Golf Club, Drumbiggle, Ennis, County Clare
(& 065/682-4074; www.ennisgolfclub.com), charges greens fees of €25 to
€35 ($30–$42).
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Dromoland Castle In 2004 this impressive castle hotel hosted U.S.
President George W. Bush on his 18-hour visit to Ireland for the E.U.–U.S.
Summit. Just 13km (8 miles) from Shannon Airport, this vision of turrets and
towers (and every 20th-century luxury) makes for a fairy-tale first or last night
in Ireland. The castle was built in 1686 by the O’Brien clan, the high kings of
Ireland, and was restored and refurbished 30 years ago as a hotel. It’s nestled
beside the River Rine, amid 160 hectares (400 acres) of parklands and gardens
that are home to various species of wildlife, including a deer herd. As befits its
royal exterior, the castle’s drawing rooms and stately halls are full of splendid
wood and stone carvings, medieval suits of armor, rich oak paneling, and origi-
nal oil paintings. The guest rooms are individually and lavishly decorated with
designer fabrics and reproduction furniture; many look out onto the water or
the romantic walled gardens. Service is excellent, if a bit stiff and self-conscious.
Limerick-Ennis rd. (N18), Newmarket-on-Fergus, County Clare. & 800/346-7007 in the U.S. or 061/368144.
Fax 061/363355. www.dromoland.ie. 100 units. €291–€397 ($351–$478) double; €390–€1,186
($470–$1,429) suite. Full Irish breakfast €22 ($27). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (French, coun-
try club); bar; 18-hole golf course; tennis courts; fishing and boating equipment; concierge; room service;
babysitting; laundry service; walking/jogging trails. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
Bunratty Castle Hotel The newly refurbished, greatly expanded Bun-
ratty Castle Hotel, which adjoins Bunratty Castle, opened in 1998. The hotel
itself isn’t a castle, nor does it pretend to be one, with its sunny yellow facade.
But it is heir to a long tradition of hospitality, beginning with a wooden fortress
700 years back, later an inn and nightclub housed in an 18th-century stone
structure. Add a tasteful extension, and you have a gracious hotel offering every
comfort and convenience with a touch of elegance. The public rooms are both
interesting and appealing, with an antique marble altar as a reception desk and
a number of other fine antiques. The spacious guest rooms are furnished in the
traditional style of dark woods, floral fabrics, and brass fixtures. Double rooms
have orthopedic king-size beds.
Bunratty, County Clare. & 061/478700 or 364116. Fax 061/364891. www.bunrattycastlehotel.com. 80
units. €180–€365 ($217–$440) double. Executive suites also available. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Irish); bar; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
COUNTY CLARE 371
M O D E R AT E
Old Ground Hotel Long a focal point in the busy market town of Ennis,
this ivy-covered hotel dates from 1749. According to a citation at the front
entrance, it has been known variously as the Great Inn of Jayl Street and the
Kings Arms; part of the hotel was once used as the Town Hall and the Town Jail.
Many of the furnishings are antiques—you’ll find vintage tea chests in the halls,
and there’s even a 1553 fireplace that once warmed the interior of nearby
Lemaneagh Castle. The guest rooms are done up in rich, restful tones and are
truly beautiful. They are furnished with antiques and some have lovely canopied
beds. On many summer evenings, cabaret-style entertainment is offered in the
pub.
O’Connell St., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/682-8127. Fax 065/682-8112. www.flynnhotels.com. 114 units.
€105–€140 ($126–$169) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants
(international, grill); bar; lounge. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
INEXPENSIVE
Bunratty Woods Value A 10-minute walk from Bunratty Folk Park and
only 9.7km (6 miles) from Shannon Airport, Bunratty Woods is an ideal spot to
spend your first or last night in Ireland, or both. Just beyond the tourist thicket,
you’ll enjoy both convenience and tranquillity in this especially tasteful guest-
house, furnished in antique pine, with bare wood floors and handmade patch-
work quilts. Most rooms have lovely views of the rolling Clare countryside.
Smoking is permitted in the guest rooms, but not in the lounge or breakfast
room. Be sure to ask the delightful hostess, Maureen O’Donovan, about local
lore—she has some startling stories ready for the sharing.
Low Rd., Bunratty, County Clare. & 061/369689. Fax 061/369454. www.iol.ie/~bunratty. 14 units.
€65–€90 ($78–$108) double. Rates include full breakfast. DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Nov to Feb. Amenities:
Lounge. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Cill Eoin House Just off the main N18 road at the Killadysert Cross, .8km
(1⁄2 mile) south of Ennis, this two-story yellow guesthouse is a real find. It offers
bright, comfortable rooms with hotel-quality furnishings and firm beds at a very
affordable price, capped by attentive service from the Lucey family. Although it’s
within walking distance of Ennis, the rooms offer lovely views of the country-
side. The house is named after the nearby medieval Killone Abbey (“Killone” is
the Anglicization of Cill Eoin).
Killadysert Cross, Clare Rd., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/6841668. Fax 065/6841669. www.euroka.
com/cilleoin. 14 units. €70 ($85) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec 24–Jan 8. Ameni-
ties: Sun room; TV lounge. In room: TV.
Clare Inn Resort Hotel Kids Panoramic views of the River Shannon and
the Clare hills are part of the scene at this contemporary Tudor-style hotel. Sit-
uated 13km (8 miles) from Shannon Airport, it’s surrounded by the Dromoland
Castle golf course and thousands of acres of woodland. The public areas are
bright and airy with large picture windows. The guest rooms are well appointed
and very comfortable, and the roster of leisure facilities is excellent for this price
bracket.
Limerick-Ennis rd. (N18), Newmarket-on-Fergus, County Clare. & 800/473-8954 in the U.S. or
065/682-3000. Fax 065/682-3759. www.lynchotels.com. 183 units. €96 ($116) double. Rates include full
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, cafe); bar; indoor swimming pool; 18-hole
golf course; 2 tennis courts; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna; supervised children’s facilities; jogging track; miniature golf;
solarium. In room: TV, hair dryer, radio.
WHERE TO DINE
M O D E R AT E
The Cloister MODERN CONTINENTAL Built right into the remains
of a 13th-century Franciscan friary, with windows overlooking what was the fri-
ary garden, this old-world pub offers innovative cuisine. The decor is warmly
elegant, with open turf fireplaces and stoves, beamed ceilings, and reproductions
from the Book of Kells adorning the walls. The menu includes poached monk-
fish with red-pepper sauce, wild venison with juniper-and-Armagnac sauce, and
supreme of chicken layered with Carrigline cheese and Irish Mist. A house spe-
cialty starter is Inagh goat cheese laced with port-wine sauce. Pub-style lunches
are served in the sky-lit Friary Bar, adjacent to the old abbey walls.
Club Bridge, Abbey St., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/682-9262. Reservations recommended. Bar food
€5–€14 ($6–$17); dinner main courses €14–€23 ($17–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Restaurant daily 12:30–3pm
and 6–9:30pm; bar daily 12:30pm–midnight.
Cruise’s Pub Restaurant GRILL Housed in a 1658 building, this restaurant

has low beamed ceilings, timber fixtures and fittings, crackling fires in open
hearths, lantern lighting, a rough flagstone floor strewn with sawdust, memora-
bilia from crockery to books, and a snug appropriately dubbed “The Safe
Haven.” On warm days, seating extends into an outdoor courtyard overlooking
the friary. The menu offers a good selection of pub grub, including Irish stew,
along with seafood, steaks, and vegetarian stir-fry. There are often impromptu
music sessions.
Abbey St., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/684-1800. Reservations recommended. Main courses €10–€24
($12–$29). MC, V. Daily 12:30–10pm.
M E D I E VA L B A N Q U E T S & T R A D I T I O N A L M E A L S
WITH MUSIC
The medieval banquets at Bunratty and Knappogue castles and the traditional
evening at Bunratty Folk Park can be booked in the United States through a
travel agent or by calling & 800/CIE-TOUR. They’re all very touristy but fun
nevertheless, and even the locals have been known to attend once in a while.
Bunratty Castle IRISH Built in 1425, this splendid structure is the
most complete and authentic example of a medieval castle in Ireland. Every
evening a full medieval banquet is re-created with music, song, and merriment.
Seated at long tables in the castle’s magnificent baronial hall, you’ll feast on
ancient recipes using modern Irish ingredients, all served in strictly medieval
use-your-fingers style. For refreshment, there’s mulled wine, claret, and mugs of
mead (the traditional honey-based drink). To add to the fun, at each banquet a
“lord and lady” are chosen from the participants to reign over the 3-hour pro-
ceedings, and someone else is thrown into the dungeon.
Castle Limerick-Ennis rd. (N18), Bunratty, County Clare. & 061/360788. Reservations required. Dinner and
entertainment €48 ($57). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily year-round 5:30 and 8:45pm.
Knappogue Castle IRISH Once the stronghold of the McNamara clan,

this castle was built in 1467. Now fully restored, it’s the setting for authentic
medieval banquets. This castle is smaller and more intimate than Bunratty, but
you’ll still feast on a medieval meal, followed by a colorful pageant of Irish his-
tory celebrating the influential role of women in Celtic Ireland. The program
includes rhyme and mime, song, and dance.
Quin, County Clare. & 061/360788. Reservations required. Dinner and entertainment €48 ($57). AE, DC,
MC, V. May–Oct daily 5:30 and 8:45pm.
COUNTY CLARE 373
Traditional Irish Night IRISH Irish country life of yesteryear is the focus
of this “at home” evening in a thatched farmhouse cottage. You’ll have a tradi-
tional meal of Irish stew, homemade bread, and apple pie and fresh cream. Then
the music begins: the flute and fiddle, accordion, bodhran, and spoons—all at a
spirited, foot-tapping pace.
Bunratty Folk Park, off the Limerick-Ennis rd. (N18), Bunratty, County Clare. & 061/360788. Reservations
required. Dinner and entertainment €40 ($48). AE, DC, MC, V. May–Sept daily 7pm.
AFTER-DARK FUN
In addition to the medieval banquets and traditional ceili evenings synonymous
with this area, County Clare offers much to delight the visitor. A number of
hotels present music or shows, particularly in the high season.
Cois na hAbhna For pure traditional entertainment, try Cois na hAbhna
(pronounced Cush-na How-na). This center stages sessions of music, song, and
dance, followed by ceili dancing with audience participation. Tea and brown
bread are served. Traditional dance sessions are run seasonally on Wednesday
from 8:30 to 11:30pm. Call for the most current schedule of ceilis and other
events. Gort Rd., Ennis, County Clare. & 065/682-0996. Admission €8 ($9.65), depending on
the event.
Durty Nellie’s Established in 1620 next door to Bunratty Castle, this ram-
shackle, thatched-roof cottage was originally a watering hole for the castle
guards. Now, with a mustard-colored facade and palm trees at its entrance, it’s a
favorite before-and-after haunt of locals and of tourists who join the nightly
medieval banquets at the castle. That the place is now commercialized is no
matter—it’s still sheer fun. The decor—mounted elk heads and old lanterns on
the walls, sawdust on the floors, and open turf fireplaces—hasn’t changed much
over the centuries. It’s a warren of little nooks, crannies, snugs, and “courtin’
corners.” The walls are covered in old photos, manifestos, and historical docu-
ments, and make a good primer in Irish history. This is also a good spot for a
substantial pub lunch or a full dinner in one of the two restaurants. Spontaneous
Irish music sessions erupt here on most evenings. Limerick-Ennis rd. (N18), Bunratty,
County Clare. & 061/364861.
THE BURREN
Moving west from Ennis into the heart of County Clare, you’ll come to an
amazing district of 259 sq. km (100 sq. miles) called the Burren. The word bur-
ren derives from the Irish word boirreann, which means “a rocky place.”
It is a strange, lunarlike region of bare carboniferous limestone, bordered by
the towns of Corofin, Ennistymon, Lahinch, Lisdoonvarna, and Bally-
vaughan. Massive sheets of rock, jagged boulders, caves, and potholes are visi-
ble for miles in a moonscape pattern, yet this is also a setting of little lakes and
streams and an amazing assemblage of flora. There is always something in
bloom, even in winter, from fern and moss to orchids, rock roses, milkwort, wild
thyme, geraniums, violets, and fuchsia. The Burren is also famous for its but-
terflies, which thrive on the rare flora. The pine marten, stoat, and badger, rare
in the rest of Ireland, are common here.
The story of the Burren began more than 300 million years ago when layers
of shells and sediment were deposited under a tropical sea. Many millions of
years later, they were thrust above the surface and left open to the erosive power
of Irish rain and weather, producing the limestone landscape that appears today.
As early as 7,000 years ago, humans began to leave their mark on this landscape
in the form of Stone Age burial monuments, such as the famed Poulnabrone
Dolmen and Gleninsheen wedge tomb.
In addition to rock, the area has other unique attractions. Lisdoonvarna, on
the western edge, is a town known for its spa of natural mineral springs. Each
summer it draws thousands of people to bathe in its therapeutic waters of sul-
fur, chalybeate (iron), and iodine. Lisdoon, as the natives call it, is also known
worldwide for playing host to an annual matchmaking festival (see “Ireland Cal-
endar of Events” in chapter 2, “Planning Your Trip to Ireland,” for details).
One of the most scenic Burren drives is along R480. The corkscrew-shaped
road leads from Corofin to Ballyvaughan, a delightful little village overlooking
Galway Bay.
Burren National Park presently encompasses 1,653 hectares (4,133 acres)
but will acquire more land as it becomes available. It’s a remarkable limestone
plateau dotted with ruined castles, cliffs, rivers, lakes, valleys, green road walks,
barren rock mountains, and plant life that defies all of nature’s conventional
rules. The area is particularly rich in archaeological remains from the Neolithic
through the medieval periods—dolmens and wedge tombs (approximately 120),
ring forts (500), round towers, ancient churches, high crosses, monasteries, and
holy wells. The park is centered at Mullaghmore Mountain but there is as of yet
no official entrance point and no admission charges or restrictions to access.
With its unique terrain and pathways, the Burren lends itself to walking. Vis-
itors who want to amble through the hills, turloughs, limestone pavements and
terraces, shale uplands, and inland lakes should follow the Burren Way. The
42km (26-mile) signposted route stretches from Ballyvaughan to Liscannor. An
information sheet outlining the route is available from any tourist office. Bur-
ren Walking Holidays, in conjunction with the Carrigann Hotel (see “Where
to Stay,” below), Lisdoonvarna (& 065/707-4036), offers a wide selection of
guided and self-guided walks, from 1 day to a week or more.
Aillwee Cave One of Ireland’s oldest underground sites, Aillwee was
formed millions of years ago but remained hidden until a local farmer discovered it
less than 50 years ago. The cave has more than 1,020m (3,400 ft.) of passages and
hollows running straight into the heart of a mountain. Its highlights are bridged
chasms, deep caverns, a frozen waterfall, and the Bear Pits—hollows scraped out by
the brown bear, one of the cave’s original inhabitants. Guided tours, which last
approximately half an hour, are conducted continuously. The site has a cafe and a
craft-rock shop; a unique farmhouse cheese-making enterprise called Burren Gold
Cheese, near the cave’s entrance; and an apiary where honey is produced.
Ballyvaughan, County Clare. & 065/707-7036. www.aillweecave.ie. Admission €8 ($9.65) adults, €6.50
($7.85) seniors and students, €4.50 ($5.40) children, €22 ($27) families. V. Daily 10am–5:30pm. Closed mid-
Nov to Feb.
The Burren Centre Established in 1975 in the heart of the Burren as a com-
munity-development cooperative, this is a fine place to acquaint yourself with
all facets of the area. The facility includes a new 25-minute audiovisual presen-
tation, plus landscape models and interpretive displays that highlight the unique
features of the region’s geology, geography, flora, and fauna. Also here are tea-
rooms, a shop stocked with locally made crafts and products, and picnic tables.
R476 to Kilfenora, County Clare. & 065/708-8030. Admission €5.50 ($6.60) adults, €4.50 ($5.40) seniors
and students, €3.50 ($4.20) children, €15 ($18) families. MC, V. Oct and Mar–May daily 10am–5pm;
June–Sept daily 9:30am–6pm. Closed Nov–Feb.
COUNTY CLARE 375
Burren College of Art If ever there were a great place for an artist to paint
or a photographer to snap a picture, it’s the Burren. Bearing that in mind, this
new center of artistic learning has sprung up in the midst of the dramatic land-
scapes. On the grounds of a 16th-century castle, the newly constructed college
opened in 1993. Although geared to 15-week semester programs and to grant-
ing full 4-year bachelor of fine arts degrees, it also offers a range of weekend and
1-week courses that are ideal for visitors. Fees vary according to the specifics of
the course. The facilities include bright studios for sculpture, painting, photog-
raphy, and drawing, plus a lecture theater, an exhibition area, a library, a cafete-
ria, and a shop. The restored castle and grounds are open to the public.
N67 to Ballyvaughan, Newtown Castle, Ballyvaughan, County Clare. & 065/707-7200. www.burren
college.com. Admission to castle or nature trail €3 ($3.60) adults, €2 ($2.40) children, €8 ($9.65) families;
to both €4 ($4.80) adults, €2.50 ($3) children, €16 ($19) families.
Burren Exposure This compact multimedia exhibition center provides

an exciting and essential introduction to the extraordinary natural wonders and
the rich historical legacy of the Burren. If you intend to explore the area at all,
the 35 minutes you spend here will be worthwhile—the center’s beautifully
crafted visuals and narratives bring out the salient points quickly and intelli-
gently. Side by side with Burren Exposure is the Whitethorn Restaurant, one of
the most tasteful, tastiest cafes in County Clare. It offers excellent seaside snacks
and full lunches, as well as dazzling seascapes through slanted, floor-to-ceiling
glass panels. Last but not least, the third component is a fine gift shop, contain-
ing a discerning selection of Irish clothing, crafts, jewelry, and books.
Galway rd. (N67), .4km (1⁄4 mile) north of Ballyvaughan, County Clare. & 065/707-7277. Admission €5 ($6)
adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors and students, €14 ($17) families. 1 week before Easter to Oct daily 10am–6pm
(last admission 5:20pm).
The Burren Smokehouse Ltd. Aficionados of smoked salmon flock here

to see the fish-smoking process firsthand and to buy right from the source. Vis-
itors are welcome to watch as fresh Atlantic salmon is sorted, hand-treated,
salted, and then slowly smoked over Irish oak chips in the traditional way. Each
side of salmon is then vacuum-sealed and chilled. Tours are given throughout
the day. Smoked mackerel, eels, and trout are also produced here. The smoke-
house provides a worldwide mail-order service. Yum.
Kincora Rd., Lisdoonvarna, County Clare. & 065/707-4432. www.burrensmokehouse.ie. Free admission.
Daily 9am–7pm. Closed Dec–Feb.
Clare Heritage Centre If you have Clare family roots, you’ll be especially
fascinated by this heritage museum and genealogical research center. Even if you
don’t, this center is worth a visit to learn about Irish history and emigration.
Housed in a former Church of Ireland edifice built by a first cousin of Queen
Anne in 1718, it has exhibits on Clare farming, industry, commerce, education,
forestry, language, and music. All are designed to reflect life in County Clare
during the past 300 years. There is also a tearoom and gift shop. The genealog-
ical research facility is open year-round.
R476 to Corofin, County Clare. & 065/683-7955. Admission €4 ($4.80) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, stu-
dents, and children. Daily 10am–6pm. Closed Nov–Apr.
Dysert O’Dea Castle and Archaeology Centre Built in 1480 by

Diarmaid O’Dea on a rocky outcrop of land, this castle was badly damaged dur-
ing the Cromwellian years. It was restored and opened to the public in 1986 as
an archaeology center and museum. Today the castle offers exhibitions and an
audiovisual show on the history of the area. It is also the starting point for a sign-
posted trail that leads to 25 sites of historical and archaeological interest within
a 3.2km (2-mile) radius. They include a church founded by St. Tola in the 8th
century that contains a unique Romanesque doorway surrounded by a border of
12 heads carved in stone. The O’Deas, who were chieftains of the area, are
buried under the church. Also at the center are a round tower from the 10th or
12th century, a 12th-century high cross, a holy well, a 14th-century battlefield,
and a stone fort believed to date to the Iron Age.
R476 to Corofin, County Clare. & 065/683-7401. Admission €4 ($4.80) adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors and stu-
dents, €2 ($2.40) children, €9 ($11) families. Daily 10am–6pm. Closed mid-Oct to Apr.
Spa Wells Centre Nestled in a shady park on the edge of town, this is Lis-
doonvarna’s famous Victorian-style spa complex, dating from the 18th century. The
stinky-but-healthy sulfur-laced mineral waters are served hot or cold in the pump
room, drawn from an illuminated well. Sulfur baths can also be arranged. Videos
of the Burren and the Shannon area are shown continuously in the visitor center.
Kincora Rd., Lisdoonvarna, County Clare. & 065/707-4023. Free admission. Daily 10am–6pm. Closed Nov–May.
W H E R E T O S TAY
Moderate
Clifden House This handsome, romantic Georgian mansion has a splen-
did location at the southern tip of the Burren, at the foot of a wooded hill on
the shores of Lough Inchiquin, with the River Fergus flowing through the sta-
ble yard. The house was abandoned for many years, but Jim and Bernadette
Robson are coaxing it back into use with some modern updates. Most of the
house is as elegant as a luxury hotel but restoration work is ongoing, so there’s a
real opportunity to witness the thoughtful rejuvenation of a historic home in
progress. The resulting effect is epicurean comfort meets gentle ruin, which
somehow sidesteps time. The guest rooms are finished—each one elegant and
beautiful in its own right. Bernadette is a passionate cook and breakfasts are
wonderful. Just 32km (20 miles) from Shannon Airport, this makes for a won-
derfully idiosyncratic entrance into Ireland.
Corofin, County Clare. & 065/683-7692. 5 units. €130–€140 ($155–$169) double. Rates include full break-
fast. Fixed-price dinner €35 ($42). MC, V. Closed Oct–Mar. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Gregans Castle Hotel If you want to spoil yourself utterly in tranquil-

lity on your first night in Ireland as you recover from jet lag, this elegant haven
is the place. Only an hour’s drive from Shannon, just over 4.8km (3 miles) out-
side Ballyvaughan, it’s nestled in the exotic floral moonscape of the Burren. The
mid-19th-century, ivy-clad, stone country house is full of light and color, and
offers lovely views of the Burren or Galway Bay from every window. Although
not strictly a castle, it is on the site of the ancient family estates of the Martyn
family and the O’Loughlens, princes of the Burren. Owned and managed by the
Hayden family, Gregans embodies decades of attention to detail and gracious
hospitality. The public areas contain heirlooms and period pieces, antique
books, and Raymond Piper’s mural paintings of Burren flora. Each guest room
is individually decorated with designer fabrics, dark woods, and brass accents;
some have four-poster or canopied beds. The suites and superior rooms are espe-
cially spacious and luxuriant, but none of the rooms will disappoint.
Ballyvaughan-Lisdoonvarna rd. (N67), Ballyvaughan, County Clare. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or
065/707-7005. Fax 065/707-7111. www.gregans.ie. 22 units. €160–€198 ($193–$240) double. Suites avail-
able. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood); bar; draw-
ing room; library. In room: TV, hair dryer.
COUNTY CLARE 377
Inexpensive
Carrigann Hotel Rose bushes and flower-filled gardens surround this
country-house hotel, on a hillside on the outskirts of town. Most of the guest
rooms, which are cheerfully decorated with standard furnishings and firm beds,
enjoy garden views. The Carrigann offers guided and self-guided walks in the
Burren (see “Exploring the Region,” above). Horse riding, cycling, and fishing
can also be arranged on request.
Lisdoonvarna, County Clare. & 065/707-4036. Fax 065/707-4567. www.gateway-to-the-burren.com. 20
units. €98–€120 ($120–$145) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner main courses €17–€21
($20–$25). MC, V. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; lounge. In room: TV, tea/cof-
feemaker, hair dryer, radio.
Fergus View Here’s the quintessential does-everything-right B&B: Spot-

less housekeeping; warm welcome; roaring fire in the parlor; superb home-style
food; and some of the prettiest, homiest (if smallish) guest rooms. Mary Kelle-
her’s lovely stone house with pine window frames—formerly a 19th-century
teacher’s residence—is a terrific, eminently affordable place to spend your first or
last few nights in Ireland. Mary goes out of her way to make guests feel at home,
and has compiled one of the best local guides to the region that we’ve seen.
Kilnaboy, Corofin, County Clare. 3.2km (2 miles) north of Corofin on road to Kilfenora. & 065/683-7606.
Fax 065/683-7192. www.fergusview.com. 6 units. €68 ($82) double. Rates include full breakfast. Fixed-price
dinner €25 ($30). No credit cards. Closed Oct 14–Easter. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms. In room: Tea/cof-
feemaker.
Rusheen Lodge On the main road just south of Ballyvaughan village,

this award-winning, bungalow-style guesthouse is completely surrounded by
flowers. The innkeeper is Karen McGann, whose grandfather, Jacko McGann,
discovered the nearby Aillwee Caves, one of the area’s most remarkable natural
attractions. Rooms are decorated in blond woods and have firm, half-tester beds
and floral fabrics. Breakfast, served in a cheery pastel-toned room overlooking
the gardens, includes freshly caught local fish as an option. Burren flowers
enhance the decor throughout the house.
Knocknagrough, Ballyvaughan, County Clare. & 065/707-7092. Fax 065/707-7152. www.rusheen
lodge.com. 9 units. €76–€90 ($92–$108) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec–Feb.
Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
Bofey Quinn’s SEAFOOD/GRILL An informal atmosphere prevails at this
pub-restaurant in the center of Corofin. Dinner specialties include lobster, fresh
wild salmon, and cod, as well as a variety of steaks, chops, mixed grills, and
also pizza. Pub-grub lunches are available throughout the day. From May to
mid-September, Mondays to Thursdays from 7:30 to 9:30pm, there’s a harpist
to serenade you.
Main St., Corofin, County Clare. & 065/683-7321. Main courses €9–€18 ($11–$22); lobster €35 ($42).
MC, V. Daily noon–9:30pm.
Tri na Cheile IRISH BISTRO This homey, intimate restaurant in the mid-
dle of Ballyvaughan village is now the common venture of Adele Laffan and
Barry Richards, committed to offering meals made with the freshest Irish ingre-
dients at reasonable prices. The menu includes sirloin; mussels and linguini;
whole crab; beef curry; filet of salmon; roast lamb with anchovies, garlic, and
rosemary; and roast chicken. Vegetarian options are also available.
Main St., Ballyvaughan, County Clare. & 065/707-7029. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€10–€16 ($12–$19). MC, V. Daily Mon–Sat noon–10pm. Closed Oct–Feb.
THE CLARE COAST

One of Ireland’s most photographed scenes, the Cliffs of Moher , draw
busloads and carloads of visitors to Clare’s remote reaches every day of the year.
Rising to vertigo-inducing heights over 210m (700 ft.) above the Atlantic and
extending about 8km (5 miles) along the coast, the cliffs are County Clare’s
foremost natural wonder.
The Cliffs are only the beginning, however. Another highlight of the Clare
Coast includes Lahinch, the old-fashioned seaside resort, with its wide beach
and long promenade along the horseshoe bay. Lahinch is also world-renowned
for its golf course. Dubbed by golfers the “St. Andrews of Ireland,” it is the par-
adigm of Irish links golf and is ranked among the 50 best courses in the world
by Golf magazine.
Farther up the coast is the secluded fishing village of Doolin, which is also
the unofficial capital of Irish traditional music. Doolin, like Galway to the
north, is also a departure point for the short boat trip to the Aran Islands.
The Clare Coast is dotted with a variety of seaside resorts, such as Kilrush,
Kilkee, Miltown Malbay, and Ennistymon, that are particularly popular with
Irish families. As you drive around this craggy coastline, you’ll find many off-
the-beaten-path delights with intriguing names, like Pink Cave, Puffing Hole,
Intrinsic Bay, Chimney Hill, Elephant’s Teeth, Mutton Island, Loop Head, and
Lover’s Leap.
Cliffs of Moher One of Ireland’s natural wonders, these 228m (760-ft.)
cliffs stretch for over 8km (5 miles) along Clare’s Atlantic coast. They offer
spirit-raising, panoramic views, especially from the 19th-century O’Brien’s
Tower at the northern end. It’s a very dramatic place, with the roar of the waves
crashing below and the call of circling seagulls. On a clear day you can see the
Aran Islands in Galway Bay. It’s also a very touristy place, with a constant throng
of coaches and cars clogging the parking lot below, and tacky souvenir stalls set
up along the footpath to the cliffs. No bother. Just walk on past and enjoy the
view. The visitor center houses a tearoom, an information desk, and a craft-and-
souvenir shop.
R478, 11km (7 miles) north of Lahinch, County Clare. & 065/708-1171. Free admission to cliffs. Admission
to O’Brien’s Tower €1.50 ($1.80) adults, €.80 (95¢) children. Cliffs visitor center daily 9:30am–5:30pm;
O’Brien’s Tower May–Sept daily 9:30am–5:30pm (weather permitting).
Kilrush Heritage Centre Housed in the town’s historic Market House, this
center provides historic and cultural background on Kilrush—the “capital of
West Clare”—and the south Clare coast. An audiovisual presentation, Kilrush in
Landlord Times, tells of the struggles of the area’s tenant farmers during the 18th
and 19th centuries, particularly during the Great Famine. The museum is also
the focal point of a signposted heritage walk around the town. The building,
erected in 1808 by the Vandeleur family, the area’s chief landlords, was burned
to the ground in 1892 and rebuilt in its original style in 1931.
Town Hall, Martyrs Sq., off Henry St., Kilrush, County Clare. & 065/9051047. Admission €4 ($4.80) adults,
€1.50 ($1.80) children, €7 ($8.45) families. May–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm.
Lahinch Seaworld and Leisure Centre After stretching your legs along
the vast strand and exploring its countless tide pools, you can get a closer look
at the aquatic denizens of the Clare Coast by visiting this compact, well-
designed local aquarium. Among the sea creatures in residence are conger eels,
COUNTY CLARE 379
sharks, and rays. In the “touch pool,” you can tickle a starfish or surprise an
anemone. If you are then inspired to take to the water yourself, the leisure cen-
ter next door charges very reasonable rates. For extra savings, combination tick-
ets are available.
The Promenade, Lahinch, County Clare. & 065/708-1900. www.lahinchseaworld.com. Admission to aquar-
ium €7 ($8.45) adults, €5 ($6) children, €23 ($28) families. Daily 10am–9pm.
Scattery Island Scattery, a small, unspoiled island in the Shannon Estuary

near Kilrush, is the site of a group of monastic ruins dating from the 6th century.
A high round tower and several churches are all that remain of what was once an
extensive settlement, founded by St. Senan. Legends tell of a massive sea monster
defeated by the saint on the island, from which the place derives its name in
Gaelic. To visit the island, contact one of the boatmen who arrange the 20-minute
ferry rides—frequency depends on demand, and even in summer there may be
only one trip per day. Or ask at the Information Center on the mainland—in the
village of Kilrush, just past the pier—when the next ferry departs. The Informa-
tion Center also houses exhibits on the history and folklore of the island.
Information Center, Merchants Quay, Kilrush, County Clare. & 065/905-2139. Free admission. Ferry €15
($18) round-trip. Mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10:30am–6:30pm.
TRIPS TO THE ARAN ISLANDS

Doolin Ferry Co. Although most people come to Doolin to enjoy the music,
many also come to board this ferry to the Aran Islands. The three fabled
islands—Inishmore, Inishmaan, and Inisheer—sitting out in the Atlantic, are
closer to Doolin than they are to Galway (roughly 8km/5 miles, or 30 min.).
Ferries operate at least daily during the season, with expanded service in the
summer. (For more information about excursions to the Aran Islands, see “Side
Trips from Galway City” in chapter 11.)
The Pier, Doolin, County Clare. & 065/707-4455. www.doolinferries.com. Inisheer €20 ($24) round-trip,
Inishmaan €25 ($30) round-trip, Inishmore €27 ($33) round-trip. Student, child, and family discounts avail-
able. Mid-Apr to Sept. Call for current schedule.
SHOPPING
Doolin Crafts Gallery Since 1982, this has been an oasis of fine craftsman-
ship in the heart of the Clare coast. Surrounded by gardens and next to the
churchyard, this shop is the brainchild of two artisans: Matthew O’Connell,
who creates batik work with Celtic designs on wall hangings, cushion covers,
ties, and scarves; and Mary Gray, who hand-fashions contemporary gold and sil-
ver jewelry, inspired by the Burren’s rocks, flora, and wildflowers. There are also
products by other Irish craftspeople. There is a good coffee shop on the prem-
ises. Ballyvoe, Doolin, County Clare. & 065/707-4309.
Traditional Music Shop In this town known for its traditional music, this
small shop is a center of attention. It offers all types of Irish traditional music on
cassette tape and compact disc, as well as books and instruments, including tin
whistles and bodhrans. Ballyreen, Doolin, County Clare. & 065/707-4407.
BIRD-WATCHING The Bridges of Ross, on the north side of Loop Head,
is one of the prime autumn bird-watching sites in Ireland, especially during
northwest gales, when several rare species have been seen with some consistency.
The lighthouse at the tip of the Head is also a popular spot for watching
seabirds.
DOLPHIN-WATCHING The Shannon Estuary is home to about 70 bot-

tlenose dolphins, one of four such resident groups of dolphins in Europe.
Cruises run by Dolphinwatch leave daily May to September from Carrigaholt.
Advance booking is essential. During July and August, call & 065/9058156; or
visit www.dolphinwatch.ie. Fees are €18 ($22) for adults, €9 ($11) for children
under 14.
GOLF “I tell everybody about this course. I tell them that I have got the best
site in the world and it’s in Doonbeg in Ireland,” gushes Greg Norman about
Doonbeg Golf Club, Doonbeg (& 065/905-5246; www.doonbeggolfclub.
com), whose opening in 2002 was a highlight in the Irish golf calendar. The
Norman-designed links course has a breathtaking setting and a magnificent
15th hole, which ends in a funnel-shaped green surrounded by sky-high dunes.
With a nearby helipad and a complex that includes a country club, hotel, and
deluxe cottages in the works, Doonbeg has quickly become a haunt for the mon-
eyed set. Greens fees are a hefty €185 ($223) daily.
Also famous, but far less pricey, is Lahinch Golf Club, Lahinch (& 065/
708-1003; www.lahinchgolf.com). Lahinch is a treat for any golfer. There are
two 18-hole links courses, but “Old Course,” the longer championship links
course, is the one that has given Lahinch its far-reaching reputation. This
course’s elevations, such as those at the 9th and 13th holes, reveal open vistas of
sky, land, and sea; they also make the winds an integral part of the scoring.
Watch out for the goats, Lahinch’s legendary weather forecasters. If they huddle
by the clubhouse, it means a storm is approaching. Visitors are welcome to play,
especially on weekdays; greens fees range from €125 ($150) daily for the Old
Course, and €50 ($60) for the newer Castle Course.
W H E R E T O S TAY
Expensive
Moy House This marvelous house overlooking Lahinch Bay was built
around 1820 and is an architectural trove. The house is run by a woman named
Mrs. Merry (no joke), and she lives up to her name by making sure you’ve got
everything you could ever need. These rooms are sumptuous, with huge, com-
fortable beds (some half-testers), crisp Irish linens, original artwork, period
antiques, fantastic bathrooms (a glass panel in one lets you look down an old
well), and TVs that pop out of cabinets. It’s worth requesting one of the best
rooms––on the first floor with the sea views––so you can watch the sun set
behind the horizon. After dinner, you’ll find bathrobes and chocolates waiting
for you on your bed. Breakfasts are classy and a notch better than at most B&Bs.
At about an hour’s drive from Shannon Airport, this makes a good first or last
night’s stop. Note: Ask about the special offers during the off season, November
through May.
Miltown Malbay Rd., Lahinch, County Clare. & 065/708-2800. Fax 065/708-2500. www.moyhouse.com. 9
units. €200–€229 ($240–$277) double. 4-course dinner €45 ($54). Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V.
Amenities: Drawing room. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Moderate
Aran View House Value Dating from 1736, this three-story, yellow Geor-
gian-style stone house stands on a hill on the main road and sits on 40 hectares
(100 acres) of farmland just north of town. It offers panoramic views of the Clare
coastline and, on a clear day, of the Aran Islands. The house is furnished in tra-
ditional Irish style, and the guest rooms are surprisingly luxurious for this price
bracket. They are spacious and appointed with mahogany furnishings, some with
COUNTY CLARE 381
four-poster beds and armoires. The ambience here is convivial, the staff is effi-
cient and friendly, and there is traditional music in the pub three times a week.
Doolin, County Clare. & 065/707-4061. Fax 065/707-4540. 19 units. €100-€140 ($120–$169) double.
Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar. In
Ballinalacken Castle Country House The first delight of Balli-

nalacken is its location: Situated just below the crest of a hill overlooking the
Aran Islands, all rooms but three command fine sea views. The hotel itself, run
by the O’Callaghan family for over 40 years, was built in the 1840s. Most of the
guest rooms are in a new wing, but it’s worthwhile to request a room in the old
house, where you’ll find high ceilings, marble fireplaces, and, in room no. 16, a
sweeping panorama of hill and sea. All rooms are traditionally furnished and are
quite spacious. Bathrooms are compact, white tiled, and modern, with strong
showers (two of the rooms have showers only, no tubs). An added bonus: The
exceptional ruined 15th-century castle tower of the O’Brien clan just behind the
hotel is open only to guests. Before you leave, be sure to climb its worn stairs to
its dizzy top to scan the sea from crumbling battlements.
Doolin, County Clare. &/fax 065/707-4025. www.ballinalackencastle.com. 12 units. €120–€176
($145–$212) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov–Apr 15. Amenities: Restaurant
(Continental). In room: TV, hair dryer.
Inexpensive
Doonmacfelim Guest House Value On the main street a few hundred feet
from the famous Gus O’Connor’s Pub (see below), this modern two-story guest-
house is a great value in the heart of Doolin. Although it’s close to the center of
everything, the house is also surrounded by a dairy farm. Guest rooms have stan-
dard furnishings and nice views of the neighboring countryside and town.
Doolin, County Clare. & 065/707-4503. Fax 065/707-4129. www.doonmacfelim.com. 8 units. €70 ($84)
double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Tennis court; sitting room. In room: Tea/coffeemaker,
hair dryer.
Knockerra House Kids The Troy family house is set in the shelter of a
beautiful grove of old trees, which is rare on Ireland’s wind-swept west coast. The
place defines serenity, with gardens tucked into a hillside and views of the neigh-
boring fields. The house (built ca. 1875) has aged well, and bears the marks of
time on its ivy-covered facade and the antiques that populate the spacious
rooms. This is a good place for families—each room has a double and a twin
bed, and the extensive grounds offer many places to explore. Fishing is free at
Knockerra Lake, a 10-minute walk from the house.
Ennis Rd, 6.5km (4 miles) north of Kilrush, County Clare. & 065/905-1054. 3 units, 2 with private bathroom.
€60 ($75) double with bathroom. Rates include full breakfast. 50% discount for children under 12. No credit
cards.
Self-Catering
Loop Head Lightkeeper’s House Finds Here is yet another of the
splendid new properties run by the Irish Landmark Trust (ILT), an organization
that has gone from strength to strength. This light-keeper’s house stands next to
the lighthouse on the tip of remote Loop Head, just southwest of Kilkee. The
downstairs contains a fully equipped kitchen, sitting room, two bathrooms, and
a double bedroom. Upstairs, there are two bedrooms (one double, one twin) and
a small sitting room. The house is brimming with old-world charms—sturdy
mahogany furnishings, brass beds, oversize sofas and armchairs, quality Irish
linens, a fireplace in every room, wide plank floors, and deep windowsills with
wooden interior shutters. Its location is perfect for a get-away-from-it-all vaca-

tion: as remote as you’d hope for from a lighthouse, and still only a 20-minute
drive to bustling Kilkee, a little seaside resort with old-fashioned appeal. As with
all ILT properties, there is no TV, but there is a radio.
Loop Head, County Clare. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust & 01/670-4733. Fax 01/670-4887. www.irish
landmark.com. €260 ($313) for 4 nights in low season, sliding up to €685 ($825) per week in high season.
Payable by AE, MC, V at booking. In room: Kitchen.
WHERE TO DINE
Expensive/Moderate
Barrtrá Seafood Restaurant SEAFOOD On the ground floor of a
country house overlooking Liscannor Bay, this intimately scaled, wide-windowed
restaurant is a great place to tuck into fabulous fish and take in some smashing
views of the Atlantic. It’s a simple, family-run place where the menu changes
daily but always pairs tried-and-true fish with interesting flavors: baked hake
with orange and ginger, turbot with parsley pesto, shark steak with sun-dried
tomatoes, haddock with lime and ginger sauce, salmon with Dijon mustard
sauce, or John Dory with Thai spices. The menu also features such local Clare
cheeses as Kilshanny (in five flavors: garlic, pepper, herb, cumin, and plain), Pool-
coin (Burren goat cheese), and Cratloe Hills Gold (sheep’s cheese). There’s a fun,
interesting wine list and good desserts, too.
Barrtrá, Lahinch, County Clare. & 065/708-1280. www.barrtra.com. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price
dinner €35 ($42); early-bird 5–6:30pm €22 ($27); main courses €17–€23 ($20–$28); Sun menu €28 ($34).
AE, MC,V. Feb–Apr and Oct Thurs–Sun 5–10pm; May–June and Sept Tues–Sun 5–10pm; July–Aug daily 5–10pm.
Seafarer’s Restaurant SEAFOOD/CONTINENTAL This mom-and-

pop place is an institution in Lahinch (formerly called Mr. Eamon’s Restaurant)
and one of those places you wish would move to your hometown. Eamon and
Rita Vaughan’s secret of success is knowing what they do best and running with
it. In the kitchen, Eamon knows how to choose accent ingredients to make the
most of simple fish: pan-fried turbot with a rosti crust, scallops in vermouth
sauce, or perhaps fried monkfish fingers with tartar sauce. Starters, such as the
warm St. Tola goat cheese with sesame seeds, are some of the most appetizing
items on the menu, and desserts are mouthwatering, too. The atmosphere is
bubbly, the service is great, and the crowd is content.
Kettle St., Lahinch, County Clare. & 065/708-1050. Reservations recommended. Main courses €12–€24
($14–$29). AE, DC, MC, V. Apr–Oct daily 7–9:30pm.
Doolin’s Traditional Music Pubs
Gus O’Connor’s Pub No discussion of Doolin is complete without mention
of Gus O’Connor’s. Situated in a row of thatched fishermen’s cottages less than
a mile from the roaring waters of the Atlantic, this simple pub beckons people
from many miles around each evening. Besides its historic charm (it dates from
1832), its big draw is music, with an international reputation for Irish tradi-
tional-music sessions. If your hunger extends beyond music, the pub serves
meals, specializing in seafood. Doolin, County Clare. & 065/707-4168.
McGann’s Finds Sure, Gus O’Connor’s has the farthest-reaching reputation, but
it pays the price by being jammed with tourists. On many nights, you couldn’t
find a local inside here if your life depended on it. That’s because the Irish are
all just up the road, downing pints of Guinness and listening to just-as-wonderful
traditional music at McGann’s. Join them. Doolin, County Clare. & 065/707-4133.
11
Galway City
A sk an Irishman to recommend his
favorite Irish city, and you’re likely to
Like most ancient cities, Galway
was founded because of its strategic
hear, “Without a doubt, Galway.” As access to water. It began as a fishing
one of Europe’s fastest-growing cities, village, but after an invasion by the
with a population of 68,600, Galway Anglo-Norman forces of Richard de
is a major city by Irish standards, yet it Burgo in the early 13th century, Gal-
still manages to retain much of the way developed into a walled town.
friendliness and congeniality of a Elevation to city status followed with
small town. Galway is perhaps the the granting of a royal charter by
most prosperous city in Ireland and Richard III in 1484. Around this
arguably the most immediately time, 14 wealthy merchant families
appealing. ruled the city, giving Galway the nick-
As home to many artists, writers, name it still bears today—“City of
and artisans, and because it has a pro- Tribes.” These families, mostly of
liferation of art galleries and is the Welsh and Norman origin, ruled the
home to a lively arts scene, Galway has town as an oligarchy, and you still see
earned the reputation of the unofficial storefronts and businesses bearing
arts capital of Ireland. The excellent these names today: Athy, Blake, Bod-
Galway Arts Festival, held every sum- kin, Browne, Darcy, Deane, Font,
mer, is perhaps the most accessible Ffrench, Joyce, Kirwan, Lynch, Mar-
culture fest in Europe. But while Gal- tin, Morris, and Skerret. By far the
way attracts droves of outsiders, it most important name in medieval
does so without alienating its long- times was Lynch, whose clan gave the
standing population. The result is a city not only its first mayor, in 1484,
city that feels lived-in—a real place but 83 other mayors during the next
that, at the same time, accommodates 169 years.
(and charms) masses of visitors. In the center of town, on Shop
Galway City is billed as the “Gate- Street, is Lynch’s Castle, dating from
way to the west,” and that’s exactly 1490 and renovated in the 19th cen-
what it is—a welcoming, colorful tury. It’s the oldest Irish medieval
doorway through which you pass on town house used daily for commercial
your way to the gigantic, melancholy purposes (it’s now a branch of the
solitude of Connemara and the west- Allied Irish Bank). The exterior is full
ern Gaeltacht. The city has a blessed of carved gargoyles, impressive coats
location, tucked between the Atlantic of arms, and other decorative
and the grand expanse of Lough Cor- stonework. Walk northwest 1 block to
rib, which spreads out over 176 sq. km Market Street and you’ll see the Lynch
(68 sq. miles) and holds some of the Memorial Window embedded in a
world’s best fishing. The lake is said to wall above a built-up Gothic doorway.
have an island for every day of the It commemorates the 16th-century
year. mayor James Lynch FitzStephen, who
384 C H A P T E R 1 1 . G A LW AY C I T Y
Fun Fact Souvenir Stories: The Claddagh Ring
One of the most popular souvenirs to take home from Ireland is a

Claddagh ring. Its story began in Galway, or more precisely, just over
the Father Griffin Bridge, on the west bank of the River Corrib, in
Claddagh. Claddagh is now a residential satellite to Galway, but in
ancient times it was a kingdom with its own royalty, laws, fleet, and
customs. The people of Claddagh were descendants of early Gaelic
families and spoke only Irish. The earliest known Claddagh ring was
made in the 17th century.
The ring depicts two hands holding a heart topped by a crown. The
hands represented friendship, the crown stood for loyalty, and the
heart for love—the three ingredients, it was said, of a perfect mar-
riage. Originally, the ring was a wedding band worn facing out for
engagement and facing in for marriage. Though no longer widely
worn as a wedding band, it is still frequently worn in Ireland by men
and women as a friendship ring and makes a lovely memento of your
trip to Ireland.
condemned his son to death for the before his assassination. A bust of JFK
murder of a Spanish merchant. After shares space in the park with a statue of
finding no one to carry out the deed, a man sitting on a limestone wall—a
he acted as executioner. He later depiction of Galway-born local hero
retreated into seclusion, broken- Padraig O’Conaire, a pioneer in the
hearted. During the 170-year heyday Irish literary revival of the early 20th
of the tribes, Galway grew wealthy and century and the epitome of a Galway
cosmopolitan, with particularly strong Renaissance man.
trade links to Spain. Close to the city From Eyre Square, it’s a minute’s
docks, you can still see the area where walk to the medieval quarter and its
Spanish merchants unloaded cargo festive, Left Bank atmosphere. What
from their galleons. The Spanish Arch makes Galway particularly engaging is
was one of four arches built in 1594, that this bohemian facet coexists so
and the Spanish Parade is a small open infectiously with the city’s history.
square where visitors strolled in the Despite Galway’s population boom,
evening. Local legend has it that the city core remains astonishingly sim-
Christopher Columbus attended mass ilar to how it was in the Middle Ages.
at Galway’s St. Nicholas Collegiate In fact, a street map from the 1700s
Church before setting sail for the New would still get you around today.
World in 1477. Originally built in All in all, Galway is a city bursting
1320, the church has been enlarged, with life. Music is everywhere—waft-
rebuilt, and embellished over the years. ing from pub entryways, lilting from
It has also changed denominations at the street musicians on seemingly
least four times. every corner, and humming from
The hub of the city is a pedestrian milkmen on their rounds (yes, bottled
park at Eyre Square (pronounced Air milk is still delivered door-to-door
Square), officially called the John F. here). Chances are that your only
Kennedy Park in commemoration of regret in visiting Galway will be not
his visit here in June 1963, just months being able to stay longer.
Galway City
Church
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NORTHERN
IRELAND Corrib Princess 1 Lynch’s Castle 8
Druid Theatre 12 Nora Barnacle House 3
Galway Eyre Square Royal Tara China 5
City Dublin
Shopping Centre 9 St. Nicholas’ Church 6
REPUBLIC Ferry to Aran Islands 17 Siamsa
OF IRELAND Galway Arts Centre 10 (Galway Folk Theatre) 16
Galway Cathedral 2 Spanish Arch 15
Galway City Museum 14 Taibhdhearc Theatre 13
Galway Irish Crystal 4
385
1 Orientation
Galway is 92km (57 miles) N of Shannon Airport, 219km (136 miles) W of Dublin, 105km (65 miles) NW of
Limerick, 209km (130 miles) NW of Cork, and 193km (120 miles) N of Killarney
ARRIVING Aer Lingus operates twice-daily service from Dublin into Gal-
way Airport, Carnmore (& 091/755569; www.galwayairport.com), about
16km (10 miles) east of the city. A taxi to the city center costs about €16 ($19);
the occasional bus, if it coincides with your arrival, costs €4 ($4.80) and drops
you off at Galway Rail Station.
Irish Rail trains from Dublin and other points arrive daily at Ceannt Station
(& 091/561444; www.irishrail.ie), off Eyre Square, Galway.
Buses from all parts of Ireland arrive daily at Bus Eireann Travel Centre,
Ceannt Station, Galway (& 091/562000; www.buseireann.ie).
As the gateway to west Ireland, Galway is the terminus for many national
roads. They lead in from all parts of Ireland, including N84 and N17 from the
north points, N63 and N6 from the east, and N67 and N18 from the south.
VISITOR INFORMATION For information about Galway and the sur-
rounding areas, contact or visit Ireland West Tourism (Aras Fáilte), Foster
Street (& 091/537700; www.westireland.travel.ie). Hours are May, June, and
September daily 9am to 5:45pm; July and August daily 9am to 7:45pm; Octo-
ber to April Monday to Friday 9am to 5:45pm, Saturday 9am to 12:45pm. For
further detailed information on events in Galway, consult www.galway.net.
CITY LAYOUT The core of downtown Galway lies between Eyre Square on
the east and the River Corrib on the west. The main thoroughfare begins west
of Eyre Square. Its name changes—from William to Shop, Main Guard, and
Bridge—before it crosses the River Corrib and changes again. If that sounds
confusing, don’t worry. The streets are all short, well marked, and, with a map
in hand, easy to follow.
GETTING AROUND Galway has excellent local bus service. Buses run from
the Bus Eireann Travel Centre (& 091/562000) or Eyre Square to various
suburbs, including Salthill and the Galway Bay coastline. The flat fare is €1.20
($1.45).
There are taxi ranks at Eyre Square and all the major hotels in the city. If you
need to call a cab, try Abbey Cabs (& 091/569369), Cara Cabs (& 091/
563939), or Galway Taxis (& 091/561112).
A town of medieval arches, alleyways, and cobblestone lanes, Galway is best
explored on foot (wear comfortable shoes). Once you check in at your hotel or
guesthouse, it’s best to leave your car and tour by walking. (To see the highlights,
follow the signposts on the Tourist Trail of Old Galway. A handy 32-page book-
let, available at the tourist office and at most bookshops, explains the tour.) If you
must bring your car into the center of town, park it and then walk. There is free
parking in front of Galway Cathedral, but most street parking uses the disc sys-
tem. It costs €.60 (75¢) for 1 hour; a book of 10 discs costs €5 ($6). Multistory
parking garages average €1.50 ($1.80) per hour or €11 ($13) per day.
To rent a car, contact one of the following firms: Avis Rent-A-Car, Higgins
Garage, Headford Road (& 091/568886; www.avis.ie); Budget Rent-A-Car,
Galway Airport (& 091/556376; www.budget.ie); or Murrays Rent-A-Car,
Headford Road (& 091/562222; www.europcar.ie).
FAST FACTS If you need a drugstore, try Flanagan’s Pharmacy, 32 Shop St.
(& 091/562924), Matt O’Flaherty Chemist, 16 William St. (& 091/561442
or after hours 091/525426), or Whelan’s Chemist, Williamsgate Street

(& 091/562291).
In an emergency, dial & 999. University College Hospital is on Newcastle
Road (& 091/580580). There’s also Merlin Park Regional Hospital (& 091/
757631). The local Garda Station is on Mill Street (& 091/563161).
For information, gay and lesbian travelers might contact the Galway Gay
Help Line (& 091/566134), Tuesday and Thursday 8 to 10pm; or Galway
Lesbian Line (& 091/566134), Wednesday 8 to 10pm.
For Internet access in Galway, try Net Access, in the heart of the city in The
Olde Malte Arcade, High Street (& 091/569772; www.netaccess.ie). Hotlines,
4 High St. (& 091/562838), offers Net access and low-cost international phone
calls and is open 7 days a week. The Galway Library/An Leabhar, in the Hynes
Building, Augustine Street (& 091/561666), is open Monday 2 to 5pm, Tues-
day to Thursday 11am to 8pm, Friday 11am to 5pm, and Saturday 11am to
1pm and 2 to 5pm.
The Post Office, Eglinton Street (& 091/562051), is open Monday to Sat-
urday 9am to 5:30pm.
2 Where to Stay
VERY EXPENSIVE
Corrib Great Southern Hotel Set on high ground 3.2km (2 miles) east
of the city, this contemporary five-story hotel offers panoramic views of Galway
Bay, from its sky-lit atrium-style lobby to the wraparound windows in the pub-
lic areas. Guest rooms are equally bright and airy, with lovely bay views, and are
decked out in traditional furnishings and warm colors. This property is newer
and more functional than its elegant sister hotel, the Galway Great Southern
(see below), and attracts largely a business crowd.
Dublin rd. (N6), Galway, County Galway. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 091/755281. Fax 091/751390.
www.gshotels.com. 175 units. €240–€270 ($289–$325) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor swimming pool;
Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; children’s program (school holidays); concierge; room service; babysitting; laun-
dry service; table tennis. In room: TV, dataport, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
Galway Great Southern Hotel Dating from 1845 and built as a rest-
ing place for train travelers, this handsome five-story hotel is the grande dame
of the Galway area. In the heart of the city, overlooking Eyre Square, its location
couldn’t be more central—next to the bus and rail station and within walking
distance of all the major sights. The spacious public areas have high ceilings,
elaborate plasterwork, crystal chandeliers, and original Connemara marble fire-
places. The guest rooms are elegant, with mahogany furnishings, half-tester
beds, designer fabrics, and brass touches. Request a room overlooking Eyre
Square for views of the whole city. The public areas are a favorite meeting place
for Galwegians, and the hotel is always buzzing.
15 Eyre Sq., Galway, County Galway. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 091/564041. Fax 091/566704.
www.gshotels.com. 99 units. €230–€250 ($277–$301) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Street parking only. Amenities: 2 restaurants (seafood, Continental); bar;
sauna/steam room; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry service. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair
dryer, garment press, radio.
Glenlo Abbey Hotel About 3.2km (2 miles) outside of Galway on the

main Clifden road, this secluded, sprawling stone hotel overlooks Lough Corrib
in a tranquil, sylvan setting, surrounded by a 9-hole golf course. Dating from
1740, it was originally the ancestral home of the Ffrench and Blake families, 2
of the 14 tribes that ruled the city for centuries. It’s been totally restored and has
retained its grandeur in the public areas, which feature hand-carved wood fur-
nishings, hand-loomed carpets, ornate plasterwork, and an extensive collection
of Irish art and antiques. The guest rooms, which have lovely views of Lough
Corrib and the countryside, are luxuriously decorated with traditional furnish-
ings as well as marbled bathrooms.
Bushy Park, Galway, County Galway. & 091/526666. Fax 091/527800. www.glenlo.com. 46 units.
€195–€310 ($235–$374) double. Suites also available. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free park-
ing. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, Continental); 2 bars; 9-hole golf course; concierge; room serv-
ice; laundry service; drawing room; fishing in Lough Corrib. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press, safe.
EXPENSIVE/MODERATE
Ardilaun House Hotel This Georgian-style country-house hotel takes its
name from the Irish Ard Oilean, meaning “high island” and referring to a pic-
turesque island nearby in Lough Corrib. Built in 1840 as a town house for a
prominent Galway family, it has extensive gardens with ancient trees, set within
a hilly residential section about 1.6km (1 mile) west of the downtown area. It
has been expanded and updated in recent years, and most of the rooms are now
housed in a modern three-story addition. They are very comfortably appointed
with traditional furnishings and floral fabrics.
Taylor’s Hill, Galway, County Galway. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 091/521433. Fax 091/521546.
www.ardilaunhousehotel.ie. 90 units. €160–€220 ($193–$265) double. Rates include service charge and full
Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Dec 22–28. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar;
indoor swimming pool; gym; massage and beauty treatments; solarium. In room: TV.
MODERATE
Brennans Yard Hotel Value If being in the center of Galway’s vibrant
nightlife and shopping is important to you, this makes a good second choice
after the Galway Harbour Hotel (below). One of the most clever restorations in
Galway’s historic area, right next to the Spanish Arch, this four-story stone
building was formerly a warehouse. It has compact, sky-lit public areas enhanced
by modern Irish art. Guest rooms overlook the city’s Spanish Arch area and are
decorated in a hip, contemporary style, with Irish pine furnishings, designer fab-
rics, and locally made pottery.
Lower Merchant’s Rd., Galway, County Galway. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 091/568166. Fax
091/568262. www.brennansyardhotel.com. 45 units. €105–€145 ($127–$175) double. Rates include full
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Discounted parking at nearby car park (€6.80/$8.20 for 24 hr.). Amenities: Restau-
rant (modern Continental); bar. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Galway Harbour Hotel Value Our new favorite base in town, the Har-
bour Hotel is Galway’s best moderately priced place to stay. It’s an unpreten-
tiously chic haven with clean lines that lend a maritime, slightly Scandinavian
(dare we say “Ikea”?) feel. Furniture is contemporary, in mainly blond woods,
and the neutral palette is warm and inviting. The restaurant and bar are con-
vivial, and in fine weather there’s an outdoor terrace restaurant where you can
take your meals alfresco. Overall, this place has a more stylish, luxurious feel
than prices suggest—note the CD player in each room—and it’s well located on
the water. Ask for a room with a harbor view and you won’t be disappointed.
Note: We’ve seen rooms offered for as little as €99 ($120) if you book online.
New Dock Rd., Galway, County Galway. & 091/569466. Fax 091/569455. www.galwayharbourhotel.com.
96 units. €118–€158 ($142–$190) double. No service charge. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free
parking at nearby car park. Amenities: Restaurant (modern Continental); bar; nonsmoking rooms. In room:
TV, dataport, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, CD player, trouser press, voice mail.

Killeen House Value Here’s a truly lovely, elegant place to stay just out of
town. Catherine Doyle has always loved antiques, and in her handsome manor
(ca. 1840) she has themed her guest rooms according to period: Art Deco, Vic-
torian, Georgian, Edwardian, and Regency. Everything harmonizes very well,
and there are no false notes—just a lot of design fun and a sense of quiet luxury.
The decor in the rest of the house is equally aesthetic, with lots of grand, look-
at-me pieces of furniture and high-backed chairs in the sitting room. Overall,
this gorgeous house offers better value than you’d normally find at this price.
On N59, 6km (4 miles) from Galway, Bushy Park, Galway, County Galway. & 091/524179. Fax 091/528065.
www.killeenhousegalway.com. 6 units. €140–€160 ($169–$193) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE,
MC, V. Free parking. Closed Christmas. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV.
MODERATE/INEXPENSIVE
Eyre Square Hotel Just a block from the Galway Great Southern Hotel
on Eyre Square (see above) is this great little find: a gently priced hotel with a
convenient address, spacious rooms, an accommodating staff, and a terrific tra-
ditional Irish breakfast. The decor is traditional Irish, with lots of dark wood and
patterned carpet, but the place is kept in good condition with frequent refur-
bishments, and feels well tended. This hotel and Jurys Inn (see below) have the
most central locations of the recommended less-expensive hotels.
Forster St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/5696333. www.byrne-hotels-ireland.com/eyresquare-hotel.htm.
60 units. €80–€150 ($96–$181) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Street parking only. Amenities:
Restaurant (Irish); bar; nightclub. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
INEXPENSIVE
Devondell Value You’d be hard-pressed to find a better B&B in Galway
than Berna Kelly’s much-lauded house in the Lower Salthill residential area,
about 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) from Galway’s city center. It’s a modern house, but guest
rooms are spacious and done up with period furnishings and brass beds covered
in superb, crisp Irish linens. The award-winning breakfasts are truly exceptional,
offering everything from cereals and fresh fruit to yogurt and cheese to hash
browns and kippers to eggs and French toast. Devondell is within walking dis-
tance of the seafront. The only drawback: With just four rooms, you need to
book well in advance.
47 Devon Park, Lower Salthill, County Galway. & 091/528306. www.devondell.com. 4 units. €80 ($96) dou-
ble. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV.
Jurys Inn Galway Value This relatively new four-story hotel opposite the
Spanish Arch was designed in keeping with the area’s historic character. Geared
to the cost-conscious traveler, it was the first of its kind in downtown Galway,
providing quality hotel lodgings at guesthouse prices. The real draw is the cen-
tral location, right in the heart of things yet bounded on one side by an almost-
lulling canal. The guest rooms, with expansive views of the river or nearby
Galway Bay, are rather functionally decorated in contemporary “motel” style,
with light-wood furniture and prints of Old Galway and Connemara.
Quay St., Galway, County Galway. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 091/566444. Fax 091/568415.
www.jurysinn.com. 130 units. €72–€115 ($87–$140) double. Prices may be higher at New Year’s and in
mid-July during the Arts Festival and Galway Races. DC, MC, V. Discounted parking at nearby car park
(€9/$11 for 24 hr.). Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room:
Knockrea Guest House In operation since the 1960s, Knockrea is situ-

ated on a commercial street in Salthill, a 15-minute walk from Galway’s city cen-
ter and 5 minutes from the waters of Galway Bay. Eileen and Padraic Storan
purchased the place in 1995, and since then they’ve completely transformed the
interior, bringing this cozy guesthouse up-to-date. The guest rooms are fur-
nished in simple pine furniture with pine floors. There are two family rooms,
which offer more space and two twin beds in addition to the double bed found
in most rooms. Bathrooms are about the size of your average closet. Eileen
Storan is an able and sympathetic host—she knows the area well and helps her
guests make the most of their time in Galway.
55 Lower Salthill, Galway, County Galway. & 091/520145. Fax 091/529985. www.knockrea.com. 6 units, 4
with private bathrooms. €60 ($75) double with shared bathroom; €90 ($108) double with private bathroom.
25% reduction for children. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms;
3 sitting rooms; use of kitchen. In room: TV.
3 Where to Dine
EXPENSIVE
Kirwan’s Lane CONTINENTAL Chef-owner Michael O’Grady’s styl-
ish, inviting restaurant is one of the most acclaimed in Galway. The dining room
is rustic chic, with pine furnishings, a terra-cotta floor, and walls painted alter-
natively warm ocher and vivid red. It’s a particularly good value at lunchtime,
when the menu includes a nice starter of Irish brie crostini and marinated
salmon roulade. The dinner menu features mille-feuille of fresh crab, stuffed
breast of guinea fowl, and sautéed fresh monkfish.
Kirwan’s Lane, Galway, County Galway. & 091/568266. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€18–€29 ($22–$35). AE, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm. Closed Sun Sept–June.
The Malt House MODERN IRISH Barry and Therese Cunningham’s

cozy place, tucked into a courtyard off one of Galway’s main drags, has long
been a big hit with the locals. The draw is excellent stalwarts, infused with mod-
ern, international influences. Start with the deep-fried mushrooms stuffed with
bacon and blue cheese or the crab claws in garlic butter. The menu is divided
into “Land” and “Sea,” and both tempt equally. The honey-glazed roast duck-
ling has an Asian flair, served with soy-and-ginger sauce and plum-and-orange
stuffing, while the escalope of veal is served with wild mushrooms and a Parme-
san crust, then drizzled with a heady Calvados sauce. On the seafood side, there’s
fried scampi, prawns Newberg, and a luscious tartlet of monkfish and scallops
served with a tasty balsamic tomato-and-onion compote. To finish, try the prof-
iteroles with hot chocolate sauce for a classy end to a fine meal. Come for the
early-bird menu and save a bundle.
High St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/567866. Reservations recommended. 2-course early-bird dinner
6–7:30pm €20 ($24); main courses €16–€25 ($19–$30). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm and
6:30–10:30pm.
Park Room Restaurant SEAFOOD/CONTINENTAL Just half a block

east of Eyre Square, at the back of the Park House Hotel, this fine restaurant—
sporting many awards, including the Galway Oyster Festival Best Seafood Award—
has an old-world decor of stained glass, dark woods, oil paintings, and plants.
Entrees include sirloin steak au poivre, roast duckling with peach-and-brandy
sauce, fresh Carna scallops Mornay, and Dublin Bay prawns thermidor. As the
awards testify, the seafood is particularly good here.
Forster St., Eyre Sq., Galway, County Galway. & 091/564924. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€18–€27 ($22–$33). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 6–10pm.
MODERATE
G.B.C. (Galway Bakery Company) BISTRO With a distinctive Old Gal-
way shop-front facade, this building is two eateries in one: a ground-level self-
service coffee shop and a full-service bistro upstairs. The restaurant menu lists a
variety of dishes, priced to suit every budget, from steaks and seafood dishes to
chicken Kiev or cordon bleu, as well as quiches, omelets, salads, and stir-fried
vegetable platters. Baked goods, particularly the homemade brown bread, are an
added attraction.
7 Williamsgate St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/563087. Coffee-shop items under €7 ($8.45); dinner
main courses €10–€20 ($12–$24). AE, DC, MC, V. Coffee shop daily 8am–10pm; restaurant daily
noon–10pm.
Nimmo’s WINE BAR/CONTINENTAL This is one of Galway’s

coolest, smartest tables—a place to see and be seen that manages to serve up fan-
tastic food and still be fun. It’s ideal for a festive, buzzy meal out. Pass the stone
facade, climb a winding stairway, and you’ll find yourself in one of the most
romantic dining rooms in Galway, particularly on a starry night when you can
see through the skylights. The menu changes according to season and tends to
feature seafood in the summer and game during the winter. Start with the zesty
fish soup or the smoked-salmon salad, then move on to the delicious Parmesan
chicken or beef bourguignon with a pile of fluffy mashed spuds. Save room for
dessert, which is brought in by Goya’s, the best bakery in Galway (see below).
The wines are terrific, too.
Long Walk, Spanish Arch, Galway, County Galway. & 091/561114. Reservations recommended. Main
courses €12–€24 ($14–$29). MC, V. Tues–Sun 12:30–3pm and 7–10pm.
MODERATE/INEXPENSIVE
Conlon SEAFOOD If you love seafood, this is a good address to know.
Conlon boasts approximately 20 varieties of fresh fish and shellfish at any given
time. The house specialties are wild salmon and oysters. Entrees include grilled
wild salmon, steamed Galway Bay mussels, and fishermen’s platters (smoked
salmon, mussels, prawns, smoked mackerel, oysters, and crab claws).
Eglinton Court, Galway, County Galway. & 091/562268. Seafood bar items €4–€8 ($4.60–$9.20); main
courses €7–€25 ($8.45–$29); lobster thermidor €35 ($42). DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun
5pm–midnight.
Finds Picnic Fare Beyond Compare

Sheridans Cheesemongers, 1 Kirwan’s Lane (& 091/564829), is the head-
quarters for putting together a gourmet movable feast. Myriad vats of
gorgeous olives, mounds of fine Irish cheeses, baskets of crisp fresh
loaves, savory arrays of sausages and sliced meats, and shelves of gour-
met mustards, quince paste, eggplant caviar, and other delicacies all con-
spire to endanger the high chefs of Ireland. Open Monday to Saturday
9:30am to 6pm. If you’re in town on Saturday morning, look for a Sheri-
dans stand at the Galway Street Market, which forms around the walls of
Saint Nicholas’ Collegiate Church, a short walk away.
Da Tang Noodle House CHINESE The noodles at Da Tang are superla-

tive. Bowls of homemade soup noodles are large and result in more than a few
appreciative slurps. The broth, seasoned with fresh coriander and chiles, has a
pleasant bite. Vegetables abound: carrot, mushroom, bamboo shoots, and shreds
of Chinese cabbage are all cooked to crunchy perfection. Go for a midafternoon
meal, when the service is admirably fast, making this a great place to nourish
your noodle along with a steady stream of Galwegians looking for a quick,
healthy lunch.
Middle St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/561443. Main courses €8.50–€19 ($10–$22). MC, V. Daily
noon–3pm and 6–10:30pm.
McDonagh’s FISH AND CHIPS/SEAFOOD For seafood straight off

the boats, served up in an authentic maritime atmosphere, this is Galway’s best
choice. The place is divided into three parts: a traditional “chipper” for fish and
chips, a smart restaurant in the back, and a fish market where you can buy raw
fish. The McDonaghs, fishmongers for more than four generations, buy direct
from local fishermen every day—and it shows; crowds line up every night to get
in. The menu includes salmon, trout, lemon or black sole (or both), turbot, and
silver hake, all cooked to order. In the back restaurant, you can crack your own
prawns’ tails and crab claws in the shell, or tackle a whole lobster.
22 Quay St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/565001. Reservations not accepted June–Aug. Main courses
€8–€34 ($9.65–$41). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–10pm.
The River God Cafe Value IRISH/CONTINENTAL This is a rewarding

destination for those with hearty appetites and modest budgets. The byword
here is rib-sticking comfort food in a rustic setting. The casserole of cod and
potatoes Connemara style, served in a wide, deep tureen, will put the color
back into any hungry face. An equally lavish portion of wild-mushroom tart
with paprika potatoes will restore the vegetarian visitor. Other offerings
include sheep-cheese Gouda with pesto and loin of pork with Guinness mus-
tard sauce. The fixed three-course dinner for €16 ($19) is one of this town’s
best bargains.
Quay St. (at Cross St.), Galway, County Galway. & 091/565811. Reservations not accepted. Fixed-price
3-course dinner €16 ($19); dinner main courses €10–€18 ($12–$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5–10:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
The Cobblestone VEGETARIAN This is one of Galway’s brightest fix-
tures on the cuisine scene, located on Galway’s oldest medieval lane. Proprietor
Kate Wright serves up excellent fresh salads, vegetarian soups, quiches, pastas,
and innovations on classic dishes such as “beanie shepherd pie” and vegetable-
and-walnut bake. Seafood and meats are also available as is a wide array of
freshly baked croissants, breads, muffins, cakes, and cookies. This is a good place
to know about when you’re in the mood for a light meal or snack.
Kirwan’s Lane, Galway, County Galway. & 091/567227. Main courses €6–€15 ($7.50–$18). MC, V. Daily
9am–7pm.
Goya’s TEAROOM/BAKED GOODS Many of this city’s best restau-

rants get their bread from Goya’s, which is perhaps the best advertisement for
this Galwegian icon. Goya’s recently moved from its tiny spot on Quay Street
to this bright, much more spacious venue. Its reputation for seductive pastries
has followed, and the new cafe is every bit as crowded as the old, with Galwe-
gians lining up for Emer Murray’s pastries and desserts. The emphasis is on
simplicity. You probably won’t find anything unexpected, but everything is
AT T R AC T I O N S 393
delightful. Stop in for tea and a scone, or buy a loaf of exceptional soda bread
for lunch.
Kirwan’s Lane, Galway, County Galway. & 091/567010. All items under €8 ($9.65). No credit cards.
Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm.
4 Attractions
Some of Galway’s top attractions are outdoors and free of charge. Leading the list
is Galway Bay. Additionally, no one should miss a stroll around the Spanish Arch
and Spanish Parade, through Eyre Square and the John F. Kennedy Park, or along
the banks of the River Corrib. Here are some of the top indoor attractions:
Galway Arts Centre Originally the town house of W. B. Yeats’s patron,
Lady Augusta Gregory, this building was for many years the offices of the Gal-
way Corporation (Galway City’s government offices). Now it’s an arts center,
offering an excellent program of concerts, readings, and exhibitions by Irish and
international artists.
47 Dominick St. and 23 Nuns Island, Galway, County Galway. & 091/565886. Free admission to exhibits.
Mon–Sat 10am–6pm.
Galway Cathedral Dominating the city’s skyline, Galway Cathedral is

officially known by the more unwieldy name of Cathedral of Our Lady
Assumed into Heaven and St. Nicholas. Mainly in the Renaissance style, it’s
constructed of fine-cut limestone from local quarries, with Connemara marble
floors. It was completed in 1965, after 8 years of building. Contemporary Irish
artisans designed the statues, stained-glass windows, and mosaics. It’s beside the
Salmon Weir Bridge on the west bank of the River Corrib.
University and Gaol roads, Galway, County Galway. & 091/563577. Free admission; donations welcome.
Daily 8am–6pm.
Galway City Museum This little museum offers a fine collection of local
documents, photographs, city memorabilia, examples of medieval stonework,
and revolving exhibits.
Off Spanish Arch, Galway, County Galway. & 091/567641. Admission €1.30 ($1.55) adults, €.70 (85¢) stu-
dents and children. Apr–Sept daily 10am–1pm and 2–5pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Thurs 10am–1pm and 2–5pm.
Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre Visitors to this distinctive crys-

tal manufacturer are welcome to watch the craftsmen at work—blowing, shap-
ing, and hand-cutting the glassware—as part of a great tour through the heritage
center. Demonstrations are continuous on weekdays. The shop and restaurant
are open daily.
East of the city on the main Dublin rd. (N6), Merlin Park, Galway, County Galway. & 091/757311. www.
galwaycrystal.ie. Free admission. Guided tour €4 ($4.80) adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors and students, €2 ($2.40)
children, €10 ($12) families. Year-round Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat 10am–5:30pm, Sun 11am–5pm.
Nora Barnacle House Opposite the St. Nicholas church clock tower, this
restored 19th-century terrace house was once the home of Nora Barnacle, wife
of James Joyce. It contains letters, photographs, and other exhibits on the lives
of the Joyces and their connections with Galway.
Bowling Green, Galway, County Galway. & 091/564743. Admission €1.50 ($1.80). Mid-May to mid-Sept
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm (closed for lunch), and by appointment.
St. Nicholas’ Collegiate Church It’s said that Christopher Columbus

prayed here in 1477 before setting out for the New World. Established about
1320, it has changed from Roman Catholic to Church of Ireland (Episcopal)
and back again at least four times and is currently under the aegis of the latter
denomination. Highlights include an authentic crusader’s tomb dating from the
12th or 13th century, with a rare Norman inscription on the grave slab. In addi-
tion, there is a freestanding benitier (a holy-water bowl) that’s unique in Ireland,
as well as a carved font from the 16th or 17th century and a stone lectern with
barley-sugar twist columns from the 15th or 16th century. The belfry contains
10 bells, some of which date from 1590. Guided tours, conducted by Declan O
Mordha, a knowledgeable and enthusiastic church representative, depart from
the south porch according to demand, except on Sunday morning.
Lombard St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/564648. Free admission to church; donations of €2 ($2.40)
adults, €1.30 ($1.55) seniors and students requested. Tours €3 ($3.60); reservations required. Mid-Apr to
Sept Mon–Sat 9am–5:45pm, Sun 1–5:45pm; Oct to mid-Apr Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 1–5pm.
CRUISES & TOURS

Corrib Princess This 157-passenger, two-deck boat cruises along the
River Corrib, with commentary on all points of interest. The trip lasts 90 min-
utes, passing castles, sites of historical interest, and assorted wildlife. There is full
bar and snack service. You can buy tickets at the dock or at the Corrib Princess
desk at the tourist office.
Woodquay, Galway, County Galway. & 091/592447. Cruise €10 ($12) adults, €9 ($11) seniors and stu-
dents, €5 ($6) children, €25 ($30) families. May–June and Sept daily 2:30 and 4:30pm; July–Aug daily 12:30,
2:30, and 4:30pm.
Galway Panoramic These open-top buses are a great way to explore the
highlights of Galway and its spectacular environs. They run all day in a loop,
and when you see something you want to explore, you just hop off and hop back
on when you want to. Or just stay on all day and get a feel for the way the city
is laid out. The tour includes vistas of the western coast of Ireland, Galway Bay,
and distant views of the Aran Islands (p. 399). Further details are available from
the Galway Tourist Office.
Grayline/Guide Friday Irish City Tours, Galway, County Galway. & 01/670-8822. www.kasbah.com. €10
($12) adults, €9 ($11) students, €5 ($6) children. Apr–Oct daily, with schedule varying according to demand.
5 Spectator Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

SPECTATOR SPORTS
GREYHOUND RACING The hounds race year-round every Tuesday and
Friday at 8:15pm at the Galway Greyhound Track, College Road, off Eyre
Square (& 091/562273). Admission is €5 ($6) and includes a racing card.
HORSE RACING For 6 days at the end of July, thoroughbreds ply the track
at the Galway Racecourse, Ballybrit (& 091/753870), less than 3.2km (2 miles)
east of town. Two-day race meetings are scheduled in early September and late
October. Admission is €10 to €15 ($12–$18), depending on the event and the
day of the week.
OUTDOOR PURSUITS
BICYCLING To rent a bike, contact Celtic Cycles, Queen Street (& 091/
566606), or Richard Walsh Cycles, Headford Road, Woodquay (& 091/
565710).
FISHING Dotted beside the River Corrib, Galway City and nearby Connemara
are popular fishing centers for salmon and sea trout. For the latest information on
requirements for licenses and local permits, check with the Western Regional
Fisheries Board (WRFB), Weir Lodge, Earl’s Island, Galway (& 091/563118;
SHOPPING 395
www.wrfb.ie). The extraordinarily accessible WRFB also provides free consultation

for overseas anglers on where to go at different times of the season for salmon or
trout, where to find the best ghillies (guides), and which flies and gear to use.
Maps and brochures are available on request. For gear and equipment, try Duffys
Fishing, 5 Main Guard St. (& 091/562367), Freeney Sport Shop, 19 High St.
(& 091/568794), or Great Outdoors Sports Centre, Eglinton Street (& 091/
562869).
GOLF Less than 8km (5 miles) east of Galway is the 18-hole, par-72 cham-
pionship Galway Bay Golf & Country Club, Renville, Oranmore, County
Galway (& 091/790503). It charges greens fees of €55 ($66) weekdays, €70
($84) weekends. Less than 3.2km (2 miles) west of the city is the 18-hole, par-
69 seaside course at Galway Golf Club, Blackrock, Galway (& 091/522033),
with greens fees of €50 ($60) weekdays, €60 ($75) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING Riding enthusiasts head to Aille Cross Equestrian
Centre, Aille Cross, Loughrea, County Galway (& 091/841216; www.aille-
cross.com), about 32km (20 miles) east of Galway. Run by personable Willy
Leahy (who has appeared often on American television), this facility is one of the
largest in Ireland, with 50 horses and 20 Connemara ponies. For about €25 to
€30 ($29–$36) an hour, you can ride through nearby farmlands, woodlands,
forest trails, and mountain lands. Weeklong trail rides in the scenic Connemara
region are another specialty, as is hunting with the Galway Blazers in the winter.
For information on trail tours, call & 800/757-1667 in the United States, or
check out www.connemara-trails.com.
6 Shopping
Galway offers malls of small shops clustered in some of the city’s well-preserved
and restored historic buildings. They include the Cornstore on Middle Street,
the Grainstore on Lower Abbeygate Street, and the Bridge Mills, a 430-year-
old mill building beside the River Corrib. Eyre Square Centre, the downtown
area’s largest shopping mall, with 50 shops, has incorporated a major section of
Galway’s medieval town wall into its complex.
Most shops are open Monday to Saturday 9 or 10am to 5:30 or 6pm. In July
and August, many shops stay open late, usually until 9pm on weekdays, and
some also open on Sunday from noon to 5pm.
Here’s a sampling of some of Galway’s best shops.
ANTIQUES & CURIOS
Cobwebs Established almost 25 years ago, this little shop is across from the
Spanish Arch. It offers unique jewelry, antique toys, curios, and rarities from all
parts of Ireland and beyond. 7 Quay Lane, Galway, County Galway. & 091/564388.
The Winding Stair Three floors crammed with antiques—just the place to
pick up an Art Nouveau lamp, painted wooden chest, or church pew. 4 Mainguard
St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/561682.
BOOKS
Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop Prices are good in this mostly secondhand-book
shop, specializing in paperback fiction and Irish-interest books. There are also
some surprising finds to be had, with a fair selection of titles in archaeology,
art history, the cinema, and music. The Cornstore, Middle St., Galway, County Galway.
& 091/561766. www.charliebyrne.com.
Kenny’s Book Shop and Galleries Ltd. A Galway fixture for more than 50
years, this shop is an attraction unto itself. You’ll find old maps, prints, engrav-
ings, and books on all topics—many on local history, as well as whole sections
on Yeats and Joyce—wedged on shelves and window ledges and piled in crates
and turf baskets. Lining the walls are signed photos of more than 200 writers
who have visited the shop over the years. In addition, Kenny’s is famous for its
antiquarian department, its bookbinding workshop, and an ever-changing
gallery of local watercolors, oils, and sculptures. Enough goes on here to keep
eight members of the Kenny family busy. Middle and High sts., Galway, County Galway.
& 091/534760. www.kennys.ie.
CRYSTAL, CHINA & SOUVENIRS
Moons This is Galway’s long-established midcity department store, with crys-
tal, china, linens, and gifts, as well as clothing and household items. William St. (at
Eglinton St.), Galway, County Galway. & 091/565254.
Treasure Chest For more than 25 years, this attractive shop with a Wedgwood-
style exterior has been a treasure trove of top-quality crafts, fashions, and gifts.
You’ll find everything from Waterford crystal chandeliers to Royal Tara and Royal
Doulton china, Irish Dresden figurines, Lladró figures, and Belleek china. It also
carries Irish designer clothing, Aran knitwear, lingerie, and swimwear, not to men-
tion touristy souvenirs such as hand-carved wooden leprechauns and Irish whiskey
marmalade. 31–33 William St. and Castle St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/567237.
HANDCRAFTS
Kevin McGuire & Son Housed in a whitewashed cottage and a gray stone
building 1 block from Eyre Square, this specialty leather shop offers Celtic and
modern handbags, briefcases, music cases, wallets, watch straps, belts, pendants,
and sheepskin rugs. 3 Lyndon Court, Rosemary Ave., Galway, County Galway. & 091/568733.
Meadows & Byrne The Galway branch of this excellent housewares shop
(with other branches in Dublin and Cork) features crafts from the most popu-
lar artisans in the country. You’ll find earthenware pottery, handblown glass,
woodenware, kitchen utensils and gadgets, textiles, tableware, scented beeswax
candles, and Irish preserves and honey. Lower Abbeygate St., Galway, County Galway.
& 091/567776.
Twice As Nice This charming, small shop is filled with fine white linens and
cottons for the bedroom and dining room, as well as antique linens, Victorian
nighties, and sumptuous christening gowns. Owner Deirdre Grundy started up
this shop 19 years ago and has earned a cult following since. 5 Quay St., Galway,
County Galway. & 091/566332.
JEWELRY
Fallers of Galway Dating from 1879, Fallers has long been a prime source
of Claddagh rings, many of which are made on the premises. It also sells Celtic
crosses, some inlaid with Connemara marble, as well as gold and silver jewelry
and crystal. Williamsgate St., Galway, County Galway. & 800/229-3892 in the U.S. (for cata-
logs) or 091/561226. www.fallers.com.
Hartmann & Son Ltd. The Hartmann family, which began in the jewelry
business in the late 1800s in Germany, brought their skills and wares to Ireland
in 1895, and opened this shop in 1942. They enjoy a far-reaching reputation as
watchmakers, goldsmiths, and makers of Claddagh rings. The store also stocks
G A LW AY C I T Y A F T E R D A R K 397
Celtic crosses, writing instruments, crystal, silverware, and unusual clocks. It’s
in the heart of town, just off Eyre Square. 29 William St., Galway, County Galway.
& 091/562063. www.hartmanns.ie.
MUSIC & MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
Mulligan Mulligan boasts that it has the largest stock of Irish and Scottish
traditional records, CDs, and cassettes in Ireland. There is also a good selection
of folk music from all over the world, including Cajun, Latin American, and
African, as well as country music, blues, and jazz. 5 Middle St. Court, Middle St., Gal-
way, County Galway. & 091/564961.
P. Powell & Sons/The Music Shop Opposite Lynch’s Castle, where William
Street meets Abbeygate Street, this shop is known for Irish traditional music. In
addition to cassettes and CDs, it sells tin whistles, flutes, bodhrans, accordions,
and violins, as well as sheet music and a full range of music books. The Four Cor-
ners, William St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/562295.
TWEEDS, WOOLENS & CLOTHING

Mac Eocagain/Galway Woollen Market This shop brims with traditional
Aran hand-knits and colorful hand-loomed sweaters and capes, as well as linens,
lace, sheepskins, jewelry, and woolen accessories. Each item has two prices, one
including value-added tax (VAT) and one tax-free for non–European Union
(E.U.) residents. 21 High St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/562491.
O’Máille (O’Malley) Established in 1938, this shop became famous in the
1950s for outfitting the entire cast of The Quiet Man, starring John Wayne and
Maureen O’Hara, and has done a fabulous business ever since. It’s synonymous
with quality Irish tweeds, Irish-designed knitwear, and traditional Aran knits.
There is always a good selection of sweaters, jackets, coats, suits, capes, kilts,
caps, and ties. 16 High St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/562696. www.omaille.com.
7 Galway City After Dark

PUBS
An Pucan A block east of Eyre Square, this old-fashioned nautical-theme pub
is a great place to find some of the best Irish traditional music in Galway (daily
from 9pm). It’s also an Irish-language pub, where most of the patrons are native
Irish speakers. 11 Forster St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/561528.
Busker Browne’s This relatively new pub and bistro has an Old Galway
ambience, with alcoves and nooks and crannies, and offers a choice of bars. This
is one of Galway’s most mobbed spots, so secure your space early. Traditional
music is performed throughout the week, and the place swings to Dixieland jazz
on Sunday afternoons. Cross St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/563377.
Crane Bar In the southwestern part of Galway, at the corner of an open mar-
ket area called “the Small Crane,” this rustic pub is known for its nightly musi-
cal entertainment. It gives special rates to fiddlers, pipers, singers, and banjo and
accordion players who pass the “efficiency” test. From 9pm every night, there is
country and western downstairs and traditional Irish tunes upstairs. 2 Sea Rd., Gal-
way, County Galway. & 091/567419.
Hole in the Wall Topped with a thatched roof, this sports pub stands out on
a busy shopping street 1 block from Eyre Square. It has a low-beamed ceiling,
open fireplaces, old sporting prints, and an old-fashioned jukebox. Cable TV
screens show major sports events in this regular gathering spot for fans of Gaelic
football and horse racing. Between the sports talk, traditional Irish music starts
nightly in the summer at 9:30pm. 9 Eyre St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/565593.
O’Malley’s Claiming to be Galway’s oldest music pub, this informal watering
hole has traditional Irish and folk music sessions with special guests on Fridays
from October to March, and music with dancing in the summer. 30 Prospect Hill,
Galway, County Galway. & 091/564595.
The Quays With an interior imported from a French medieval church, the
Quays (pronounced Keys) is a little treasure in the heart of the city, a half-block
from the Druid Theatre. It’s full of tinted glass, carved wood, Gothic arches, and
even pews. Evening music ranges from traditional Irish to ’70s retro to Dixieland,
and usually starts at 9pm. Quay St. and Chapel Lane, Galway, County Galway. & 091/568347.
Rabbitt’s Dating from 1872, this pub is much the way it was a century ago.
Old lanterns hang in the corners, skylights brighten the bar area, and pictures of
Galway in horse-and-carriage days line the walls. Run by the fourth generation
of the Rabbitt family, it’s a block east of Eyre Square. 23–25 Forster St., Galway, County
Galway. & 091/566490.
Tigh Neachtain (Naughton’s) Finds Voted one of the top-six pubs in Ireland
by Himself magazine, this pub is what the Irish call “the genuine article.” It is
housed in one of the last buildings in Galway that date from the Middle Ages
and is the only one with an intact oriel window. Inside, the place positively
breathes atmosphere. The labyrinth of tiny snugs are over a century old, and the
interior has scarcely been changed since 1894. A piece of local trivia: This was
once the home of Richard Martin, a Galway politician and animal-rights activist
known as “Humanity Dick.” Today it’s known for its theatrical and literary
clientele and for its superb sessions of traditional Irish music. 17 Cross St., Galway,
County Galway. & 091/568820.
CLUBS
Like a late relay, the clubs take up at 11:30pm when the pubs leave off. The
places to see and be seen are Central Park, 36 Upper Abbeygate St. (& 091/
565976); Cuba, Eyre Square (& 091/565991), for seriously cool Latin jazz
funk Saturday nights; and the GPO, Eglinton Street (& 091/563073). In
nearby Salthill, new dance clubs with hot guest DJs are popping up all the time.
Two of the best are Bogarts (& 091/582357), with its big dance floor and giant
video screen, and the smaller, award-winning Liquid (& 091/522715).
Zulu’s Bar, Raven’s Terrace (near Jury’s Inn; & 091/581204), is Galway’s first
exclusively gay bar. Fridays and Saturdays are gay nights at The Attic @ Liquid,
Liquid, Salthill (& 091/522715).
A MEDIEVAL BANQUET
On the shores of Galway Bay, Dunguaire is a splendid 16th-century castle that
features a medieval banquet with a literary-themed show. In south County Gal-
way on Ballyvaughan road (N67), Kinvara, the castle is a nightlife option for
people staying in Galway City, just a half-hour’s drive away (see “Side Trips from
Galway City,” below). The show features the work of Synge, Yeats, Gogarty, and
other Irish writers who knew and loved this area. Banquets are staged in the
summer months in keeping with demand and cost €45 ($54) per person. Reser-
vations can be made at & 061/361511.
S I D E T R I P S F R O M G A LW AY C I T Y 399
THEATERS
Druid Theatre Irish folk dramas, modern international dramas, and Anglo-
Irish classics are the focus at this professional theater in the heart of Galway.
Founded in 1975, the theater is located in a converted grain warehouse and con-
figured with 65 to 115 seats, depending on the production. Lunchtime perform-
ances are often staged during the summer. The Druid Theatre Company, of
international repute, is much in demand and frequently on tour, so make your
plans well in advance. Box-office hours are Monday to Saturday from noon to
8pm; evening shows start at 8pm. Chapel Lane, Galway, County Galway. & 091/568617.
www.druidtheatre.com. Evening tickets €11–€20 ($13–$24).
Siamsa, The Galway Folk Theatre This delightful blend of traditional Irish
music, dance, and folk drama will definitely put you in the Celtic mood. If you
wished that Riverdance would never end, here you’ll discover that it hasn’t. It’s
just over the Wolfe Tone Bridge in Claddagh, a 10-minute walk at most from
Jurys. Box-office hours are June through August weekdays 10am to 5pm. Shows
take place June through August, Monday to Friday at 8:45pm. Additional week-
end shows are added depending on demand. Claddagh Hall, Nimmos Pier, Galway,
County Galway. & 091/755479. http://homepage.tinet.ie/~siamsa. Tickets €20 ($24).
Taibhdhearc Theatre Pronounced Thive-yark and officially known as An
Taibhdhearc na Gaillimhe (the Theatre of Galway), this is Ireland’s national stage
of the Irish language. Founded in 1928, it is a 108-seat, year-round venue for
Irish plays and visiting troupes (such as ballet). In the summer the theater pres-
ents Spraci, a program of traditional music, song, dance, and folk drama. The box
office is open Monday to Saturday from 1 to 6pm (until 8pm on show nights);
most shows start at 8pm. The Spraci program is performed July to August Mon-
day to Friday at 8:45pm. Middle St., Galway, County Galway. & 091/563600. [email protected].
Tickets €10–€12 ($12–$14).
8 Side Trips from Galway City

THE ARAN ISLANDS
West from the mouth of Galway Bay, 48km (30 miles) out at sea, the storied
Aran Islands —Inis Mór (Inishmore), Inis Meain (Inishmaan), and Inis
Oirr (Inisheer)—are outposts of Gaelic culture and language. Here the rugged
islanders, immortalized in John Millington Synge’s play Riders to the Sea and
Robert Flaherty’s film Man of Aran, maintain their hardscrabble traditional life,
clinging like moss to the islands’ harsh rocks and fishing from currachs, small
craft made of tarred canvas stretched over a timber frame.
The island’s 1,500 inhabitants live in stone cottages, often rely on pony-
drawn transport, and speak Irish among themselves, breaking into English when
necessary to converse with nonislanders. Inevitably, booming tourism has altered
things somewhat, and many distinctively Aran traditions hang on more as curios
than as everyday elements of life. Among them are crios—finger-braided belts
made of colored wool that traditionally held up the islanders’ heavy wool
trousers but are now more commonly made for the tourist trade. The classic
hand-knit bainin sweaters that originated here are still worn, as there’s nothing
better for keeping out the chill. You’ll see plenty of them, both on people’s backs
and in the islands’ many woolen and craft shops.
Most visitors debark from the ferries at Kilronan, Inishmore’s main town and
possibly the easiest place in the world in which to arrange or rent transportation.
Impressions
Some time ago, before the introduction of police, all the people of the
islands were as innocent as the people here remain to this day. I have
heard that at that time the ruling proprietor and magistrate of the north
island used to give any man who had done wrong a letter to a jailer in
Galway, and send him off by himself to serve a term of imprisonment.
—J. M. Synge (1871–1909), The Aran Islands
The mode is up to you: Jaunting cars can be hailed like taxis as you step off the
boat, minivans stand at the ready, and bicycle rentals are within sight.
The chief attraction on the Arans is Dún Aengus , a stone cliff fortress
on Inishmore that extends over more than 4.4 hectares (11 acres). Dating back
2,000 years, the fort is believed to have been of great significance. Less certain is
what that significance was. Some think it was not a military structure at all but
rather a vast ceremonial theater. It’s on the edge of a cliff that drops 90m (300
ft.) to the sea, and offers a spectacular view of Galway Bay, the Burren,
Connemara, and (with sharp eyes and clear skies) the Blasket Islands. A Dún
Aengus Interpretive Centre opened in 1999.
The new heritage center, Ionad Arann, Kilronan, Inishmore (& 099/
61355), explores the history and culture of the islands. Exhibits examine the
harsh yet beautiful landscape, the Iron Age forts, and the churches of the first
Christians. In addition, the 1932 film Man of Aran, directed by Robert Flaherty,
is shown six times daily. The center is open March to May and October daily
10am to 5pm, and from June to September daily 10am to 7pm. Admission to
the center is €4 ($4.80) for adults, €2.50 ($3) for students, €2 ($2.40) for sen-
iors and children, and €8 ($9.65) for families. Discounted combination tickets
to the center and film are available. The cafe serves soups, sandwiches, and pas-
tries throughout the day.
Here are the best ways to arrange an excursion to the Aran Islands:
Aer Arann The fastest way to get from the mainland to the Aran Islands is on
this local airline, which departs from Connemara Airport, approximately 29km
(18 miles) west of Galway City. Flight time is 10 minutes, and bus service
between Galway City and the airport is available. You can book your flight at the
Galway Tourist Office or at Aer Arann Reservations. A range of specials is usually
on offer, combining flights with bus/ferry/accommodations, and so forth.
Connemara Airport, Inverin, County Galway. & 091/593034. Fax 091/593238. www.aerarann.ie. Fare €44
($53) adult round-trip, €25 ($30) child round-trip. MC, V. Apr–Sept daily 9am, 10:30am, 4, and 5pm; Oct–Mar
daily 9am, 10:30am, and 3pm.
Aran Island Ferries This company, with a number of offices in Galway cen-
ter, offers extensive year-round daily service to all three Aran Islands. Most boats
leave from Rossaveal in Connemara, 37km (23 miles) west of the city, for the 40-
minute trip. Island Ferries provides coach connection service from its Victoria
Place office 90 minutes before sailing time. During peak summer season, there are
daily excursions from Galway Dock, which cost up to €6.50 ($7.85) more than
tickets from Rossaveal. Inquire about times for the newest fast ferry in the fleet.
Victoria Place, off Eyre Sq., Galway, County Galway. & 091/568903. Fax 091/568538. www.aranisland
ferries.com. Round-trip fare €19 ($23) adults, €15 ($18) seniors and students, €10 ($12) children; family and
group rates on request. From Rossaveal Nov–Mar daily 10:30am and 6pm; Apr–Oct daily 10:30am, 1pm, and
6pm. Additional sailings July–Aug according to demand.
W H E R E T O S TAY O N T H E A R A N I S L A N D S
Kilmurvey House This has been the place to stay on Inishmore since
Dún Aengus fell into ruin. The 18th-century stone family home of the “Fero-
cious O’Flahertys” forms the core of this most hospitable and pleasant guest-
house, expanded to offer 12 diverse rooms, all quite comfortable and impeccably
clean. Despite its origins, the spirit of the house could not be more gracious,
thanks to Teresa Joyce’s hospitality. An array of delights awaits you at breakfast,
and an optional four-course dinner is served at 7pm with advance reservation.
Kilmurvey House lies just below Dún Aengus, Inishmore’s prime attraction. A
handful of shops, cafes, and restaurants, as well as a “blue flag” (that is, pristine)
white-sand beach, are within a short stroll.
8km (5 miles) from the ferry on the coast rd., Kilmurvey, Kilronan, Inis Mór, Aran Islands, County Galway.
& 099/61218. Fax 099/61397. 12 units. €80 ($96) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed
Nov–Easter. Amenities: Sitting room.
Radharc An Chlair Finds Leaving the ferry and trodding onto tiny Inisheer,
you’re met by Peadar Poil and given a lift up to the house—wait for it—on his
tractor. Peadar’s wife, Brigid, runs a spit-and-polish B&B operation and the
guest rooms are all very comfortable and cozy. She is also a superb cook and a
terrific baker, so even a scone and a cup of tea is a real pleasure. For those who
find Inishmore a bit too busy and touristy (as it can be in the summer), think
about hopping over here for the ideal of Aran.
Inis Oirr, Aran Islands, County Galway. & 099/75019. 6 units. €60 ($75) double. Rates include full break-
fast. MC, V. Closed Christmas. Amenities: Sitting room.
WHERE TO DINE ON THE ARAN ISLANDS

Man of Aran CONTINENTAL If the Man of Aran restaurant looks
familiar, it may be because you just saw it in the film at the Heritage Centre. It
is the traditional thatched seaside cottage constructed in 1934 for the filming of
Man of Aran. The resemblance stops there, however—the Man himself never for
one day ate as well as you will here. After years of culinary training and experi-
ence in London, Maura Wolfe returned to Aran with her husband, Joe, and cre-
ated one of the island’s great surprises. It’s a first-class restaurant drawing upon
the organic vegetables and herbs grown with great toil in their garden. Maura
conjures each day’s menu on the spot, inspired by what is fresh and available
from the sea and from the soil just beyond her front door. The result is exqui-
site home cooking, perfect, simple, and without pretense. Tables are limited,
especially in the separate nonsmoking room. If you can’t stay for dinner, at least
stop by for lunch. B&B accommodations are also available for €70 to €74
($84–$89) double. Though the cottage remains rustic and true to the film, the
three guest rooms are quite comfortable and homey, with whitewashed walls,
simple pine furnishings, and character galore.
Kilmurvey, Kilronan, Aran Islands, County Galway. & 099/61301. Reservations required for dinner. Fixed-
price dinner €30 ($36). No credit cards. Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm and 7:30–10pm.
OYSTER COUNTRY
On the main road south (N18) of Galway are two small fishing villages, Claren-
bridge and Kilcolgan. Each year at the end of September, the villages host the
annual Galway Oyster Festival. Launched in 1954, the 5-day festival is packed
with traditional music, song, dancing, sports, art exhibits, and, above all, oyster-
tasting events and oyster-opening competitions. A Galway beauty is crowned
“Oyster Pearl,” and she reigns over the festival. Even if you can’t be there for the
festival, you can enjoy some of Ireland’s best oysters during any month with an
“r” in it—that is, September through April.
If you continue south on N18 for another 16km (10 miles), you’ll see signs
to Coole Park (& 091/631804). Irish red deer, pine martens, red squirrels, and
badgers inhabit this national forest. Coole House was once the home of Lady
Augusta Gregory, dramatist and folklorist. With W. B. Yeats and Edward Mar-
tyn, she founded the Abbey Theatre. Her house no longer stands, but an “auto-
graph tree” bears initials carved by George Bernard Shaw, Sean O’Casey, John
Masefield, Oliver St. John Gogarty, W. B. Yeats, and Douglas Hyde, the first
president of Ireland. The restored courtyard has a visitor center, tearooms, pic-
nic tables, and a garden with nature trails that run to the lake. Admission is
€2.75 ($3.30) for adults, €2 ($2.40) for seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) for students
and children, and €12 ($14) for families. It’s open mid-April to mid-June, Tues-
day to Sunday 10am to 5pm; mid-June to August daily 9:30am to 6:30pm; and
September daily 10am to 5pm. Last admission 1 hour before closing.
In Gort, also on the N18, is Thoor Ballylee (& 091/631436). This restored
16th-century Norman tower house was the summer home of the Nobel
Prize–winning poet William Butler Yeats. Yeats described the house as “a tower
set by a stream’s edge”; it served as the inspiration for his poems “The Winding
Stair” and “The Tower.” In the interpretive center, an audiovisual presentation
examines the poet’s life. Also on the grounds are the original Ballylee Mill, par-
tially restored, and a bookshop specializing in Anglo-Irish literature. Admission
is €6 ($7.50) for adults, €5.50 ($6.60) for seniors and students, and €1.50
($1.80) for children. It’s open from May to September daily 10am to 6pm.
There’s a seasonal Tourist Information Office (& 091/631436) located here,
open May to September daily 10am to 6pm.
West off the main road, between Gort and Kilcolgan, is Dunguaire Castle,
Kinvara (& 061/360788). On N67 just east of Kinvara, this tower house and
bawn (fortified enclosure) sits on the south shore of Galway Bay. It was erected
in the 16th century by the O’Heynes family at the royal seat of the 7th-century
King Guaire of Connaught. The castle was later the country retreat of Oliver St.
John Gogarty, Irish surgeon, author, poet, and wit. The castle’s greatest appeal is
the view from its battlements of the nearby Burren and Galway Bay. Admission
is €4.50 ($5.40) for adults, €2.95 ($3.55) for seniors and students, €2.50 ($3)
for children, and €12 ($14) for families. It’s open daily from mid-April through
September 9:30am to 5:30pm. Medieval banquets also take place here on sum-
mer evenings (p. 398).
W H E R E T O E AT OY S T E R S
Moran’s Oyster Cottage SEAFOOD Presidents, prime ministers,
movie stars, and locals who know their fish make a point of finding their way
here. The food is simply legendary. For six generations, the Morans have been
catching salmon and shucking oysters and preparing them to perfection here on
the weir. In 1960 Willie Moran caught 105 wild salmon in a single day on the
Dun Killen River in front of the family pub, and went on to win the world title
in oyster opening. Two of his staff members, Vincent Graham and Gerry Greal-
ish, are also world champions. The wild smoked salmon is exquisite—sheer vel-
vet. Willie Moran believes in a small menu, fresh and wild and with nothing in
the way. Ambience? It’s a thatched cottage with 36 swans and a blue heron out-
side the front door. It’s rustic but a helluva nice place to eat oysters.
The Weir, Kilcolgan, County Galway. & 091/796113. Main courses €12–€20 ($14–$24). AE, MC, V.
Mon–Sat 10:30am–11:30pm; Sun noon–11:30pm.
Paddy Burke’s SEAFOOD Platters of local oysters and mussels are served
throughout the day at this homey tavern, with its lemon color and thatched roof.
You can pick your favorite spot to relax in the half-dozen rooms and alcoves with
original stone walls, open fireplaces, potbellied stoves, fishing nets on the walls,
and traditional sugan chairs (wood chairs with twisted straw rope seats). In good
weather, there is seating in a back garden. Lunch and snack items range from
seafood soups and chowders to sandwiches, salads, and omelets. In the evening,
you can also order full meals, with choices such as Atlantic plaice and crab with
prawn sauce, honey roast duck with mead sauce, and medallions of beef with
whiskey and mustard. The tavern is on the main road, 16km (10 miles) south of
Galway City.
Ennis-Galway rd. (N18), Clarenbridge, County Galway. & 091/796226. Reservations recommended for din-
ner. Main courses €14–€25 ($17–$30). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10:30am–10:30pm; Sun noon–9:30pm.
SHOPPING
Clarenbridge Crystal and Fashion Shop This shop features all types and
styles of Clarenbridge crystal, a local glass product hand-cut, engraved, and deco-
rated at a factory 1.6km (1 mile) away. You’ll also find a beautiful range of classic
quality ladies’ fashions and men’s country clothing, framed prints, watercolors, and
jewelry. Open Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 6pm, Sunday from noon to
6pm. N18, Clarenbridge, County Galway. & 091/796178. 16km (10 miles) south of Galway City.
12
Out from Galway
A long the rocky western coast of Ire-
land, Galway is the country’s second-
death sentence. While English land-
lords divvied up Ireland’s most fertile
largest county, forming (with Mayo; lands, Connaught was so barren, so
see chapter 13) the heart of the uncultivable, so desolate, that nobody
province of Connaught. The area could hope for better than to eke out
northwest of Galway City is one of an impoverished existence on minute,
Ireland’s most spellbinding land- rock-infested farms. It was also here,
scapes—a combination of bog land, where it seemed people had little left
heather-clad moors, rocky hillocks, to lose, that the Great Famine of 1845
and everywhere the most fantastic to 1849 took its largest toll. Masses of
light you may ever witness in your people either starved or took off on
travels. In the heyday of the “Island of ships sailing west, never to return.
Saints and Scholars,” the remote and Haunting reminders can still be found
rugged Connemara region was favored in the many deserted farms and vil-
by early Christian monks for their lages that are scattered throughout
awe-inspiring beauty and isolation. Connemara.
Important monasteries were founded History aside, this moody, melan-
on islands like Inishbofin, Inishshark, choly, magical outpost is stunningly
High Island, and Omey Island. Today beautiful—a fact you can appreciate if
no fewer than 17 islands off the Con- you don’t have to eat the scenery to
nemara coast have monastic remains. survive. It is indeed a feast of eye
Yet, ironically, for a landscape that candy, and, as it happens, the feast
inspires so much serenity, medieval provides for everyone, because
history was particularly unkind to this tourism is bringing prosperity to the
part of Ireland. In the 17th century, west that the potato never did. If
after the merciless Oliver Cromwell you’re concerned that there might be
and his armies ravaged everything in too much tourism here, well, you
their path, he famously told the native shouldn’t be. It’s a destination that
Irish to go “to hell or to Connaught.” seems to swallow people; no matter
It was effectively a condemnation to how many visitors come, the solitude
destitution, and for many it was a is always vast and healing.
1 The Galway Bay Coast

It’s certainly a pleasure to drive up the majestic, spectacular Galway Bay coast,
with the Aran Islands sitting 48km (30 miles) out at sea to your left like three
giant whales at rest, and the heather-clad stony foothills of Connemara to your
right. Departing Galway, and certainly once you pass Spiddal, you have the
sense of passing through a gateway into Ireland’s wild west, a land strikingly
remote, melancholy, and moody in contrast to the exuberance of Galway. Count
on it taking about 40 minutes from Galway to Rossaveal, and another 40 min-
utes to Carna, at the northernmost tip of the bay.
County Galway
M A Y O Claremorris Ballyhaunis
i ns
ills
nta
R395
yH
ffre Lough
ou
She N59
Lough Cara
yM
Inishbofin Killary
Mask
rtr
Harbour
Pa
Renvyle Ballinrobe Dunmore
Inishark Lough
Cleggan 1 Fee MaaLeenane
mtur
k Mo Cong
Letterfrack CONNEMARA 2 unt
NATIONAL PARK ains
Omey Island Tuam
Clifden 5 Maam Lough
Corrib
Ballyconneely 3 Recess Cross Headford
N59
R342 4 Oughterard
N17
Roundstone Screeb 7
R340 6
Lettermore GALWAY
Carna
NORTHERN Athenry
Costelloe GALWAY
IRELAND Lettermore
Rossaveel 8 Bearna
R336
Dublin Inverin Spiddal Salthill N6
COUNTY Galway
GALWAY Inishmore Bay
REPUBLIC OF 9 N18
IRELAND AR Inishmaan
A NI
SLA Inisheer Kinvarra 10
ND
S Doolin Gort
0 10 mi
N CLARE
0 10 km Ferry Route
Aughnanure Castle 7 Lough Inagh 5

Connemara National Park 2 Padraic Pearse Cottage 6
Coole Park 10 Roundstone Musical Instruments 4
Dan O’Hara’s Homestead Farm 3 Spiddal Craft Village
Dunguaire Castle 9 (Ceardlann an Spideil) 8
Kylemore Abbey 1
GALWAY BAY COAST ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND The best way to see the sights
along the Galway Bay coast is to drive. From Galway City, follow the coast road
(R336). From Galway City to Inverin, it’s about 32km (20 miles).
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact or visit Ireland West Tourism, Aras
Fáilte, Foster Street, Galway, County Galway (& 091/563081; www.west
ireland.travel.ie). It’s open year-round; see p. 408 for hours. Seasonal offices,
open from late April through September, are at Clifden (& 095/21163) and
Salthill (& 091/520500).
EXPLORING THE COAST
Head west from Galway, following signs for the coast road (R336). Within
3.2km (2 miles), you’ll be in Salthill, a modern beach resort that is a summer
mecca for Irish families and that is somewhat reminiscent of the New Jersey
shore in the United States. It has a boardwalk and a fine beach, plus lots of bars,
fast food, amusement rides, and game arcades. You will likely prefer to continue
on this scenic road to little towns like Barna and Spiddal, both of which are
Irish-language towns. Spiddal, 19km (12 miles) west of Galway City, is also an
ideal spot to shop for locally made Aran knit sweaters and other handcrafts pro-
duced by the people in the surrounding cottages.
The road continues as far as Inverin, then turns northward, with signposts
for Rossaveal. From Rossaveal, you can make the shortest sea crossing from the
406 C H A P T E R 1 2 . O U T F R O M G A LW AY
Galway mainland to the Aran Islands (see “Side Trips from Galway City” in
chapter 11). You might want to combine this coastal drive with a trip to the
islands.
If you continue on R336, you’ll leave the Galway Bay coast and travel past the
rocky and remote scenery approaching the center of Connemara. Casla (Costel-
loe) is the home of Raidio na Gaeltachta, the Irish-language radio station, and
Rosmuc is the site of the Padraic Pearse Cottage. This simple thatched-roof
structure served as a retreat for Dublin-based Pearse (1879–1916), who was one
of the leaders of Ireland’s 1916 Rising. He used his time here to improve his
knowledge of the Irish language. Now a national monument, the cottage con-
tains documents, photographs, and other memorabilia. Admission is €1.30
($1.55) for adults, €.90 ($1.10) for seniors, €.50 (60¢) for students and chil-
dren, and €4 ($4.80) for families. It’s open from mid-June to mid-September
daily 9:30am to 6:30pm (last admission 45 min. before closing).
At this point, you can continue north into the heartland of Connemara or
retrace your route back to Galway, setting out afresh the next day for Connemara.
SHOPPING
Ceardlann an Spideil/Spiddal Craft Village Overlooking Galway Bay,
this is a cluster of cottage shops where craftspeople ply their trades. You’re wel-
come to browse around and watch crafts being made. The selection includes
pottery, weaving, knitwear, silk-screen printing and design, jewelry, and wood
turning. The art galleries feature original hand-carved stone crafts, sculpture,
paintings, prints, posters, and cards, and there’s a very good coffee shop on the
premises. For a snack, lunch, or light meal, Jackie’s Bistro, in a rustic cottage at
the Craft Village, offers highly recommended fare. The shops are open Monday
to Saturday from 9:30am to 6:30pm and Sunday from 2 to 5:30pm in July and
August; and Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 5:30pm September through
June. Coast Rd., Spiddal, County Galway. & 091/553041.
Standun A fixture on the Connemara coast since 1946, this shop has long
been known as a good source for authentic bainin sweaters, handcrafted by local
women from the nearby Aran Islands and the surrounding Connemara coun-
tryside. Recently enlarged, it also offers colorful knits, tweeds, sheepskins,
linens, glassware, china, pottery, jewelry, books, and maps. In addition, there’s a
wide-windowed cafe that faces Galway Bay and the Aran Islands. Open from
March to December, Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 6:30pm. Coast Rd.,
Spiddal, County Galway. & 091/553108.

FISHING Rimmed by the waters of Galway Bay and the Atlantic, this area is
prime territory for sea fishing, especially for mackerel, pollock, cod, turbot, and
shark. To locate a boat-hire service in the area where you plan to stay, contact
the Western Regional Fisheries Board, the Weir Lodge, Earl’s Island, Galway
(& 091/563118; fax 091/566335; www.wrfb.ie), for recommendations. A fish-
ing license costs €15 ($18) per day or €22 ($27) for 3 weeks. Rental of rods,
reels, and bait is likely to run a further €35 to €50 ($42–$60) per day.
For those who prefer trout fishing, there’s Crumlin Lodge Fisheries, Inverin,
County Galway (& 091/593105). This fishery has a lake stocked with sea-
reared rainbow trout and allows two fish per person to be taken per day. Prices
range from €14 ($17) for fishing from the bank to €34 ($41) for fishing with
a boat; ghillies (guides) are available for €35 ($42) extra. Fishing starts at 9am
daily; reservations must be made at least a day in advance.
T H E G A LW AY B AY C O A S T 407

SWIMMING The Silver Strand at Barna and the beach at Spiddal are clean,
sandy, and ideal for swimming.
WHERE TO STAY
Connemara Coast Hotel Only 9.7km (6 miles) west of Galway City
and with Galway Bay at it’s back door, this place has a lot going for it. Recently
refurbished and expanded, the guest rooms are decorated in bold, tweedy
plaids—that look smart, not frumpy—and each has a picture-window view of the
water. Most have views of the Aran Islands or Clare hills, and some have turf-
burning fireplaces and private verandas. The pub, Sin Sceal Eile (meaning “That’s
Another Story”), was named the 1998 Irish hotel bar of the year and offers tra-
ditional entertainment nightly in summer and on weekends the rest of the year.
Coast Rd., Furbo, County Galway. & 091/592108. Fax 091/592065. www.sinnotthotels.com/connemara.
112 units. €140–€210 ($169–$253) double. Suites also available. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; indoor swimming pool; 2 tennis courts; gym; Jacuzzi; steam bath;
nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
INEXPENSIVE
Cloch na Scíth, Kellough Thatched Cottage If you want more than a
touch of charm and authenticity on the shores of Galway Bay, this place is right
up your alley. The trio of guest rooms in Nancy Hopkins Naughton’s centuries-
old thatched farmhouse are warm and welcoming, with antique pine furniture,
polished wood floors, and patterned quilts. The whole house is open to guests
and is full of antiques and keepsakes from many generations of Naughtons.
Tomas Naughton, Nancy’s husband, is both a talented painter and an all-Ireland
sean-nos (traditional a cappella Gaelic) singer; guests are often treated to tradi-
tional Irish sessions around the fire in the evening. As an afternoon snack, Nancy
bakes a fresh corn cake in the open hearth each day and leaves it out for her
guests, who have included an appreciative Julie Christie. A small sandy beach is
minutes away by foot.
In addition, there is an inviting self-catering thatched stone cottage, built
by Tomas’s great-grandfather. It rents for €300 to €585 ($361–$705) per week,
depending on the season. It has two bedrooms, a kitchen-dining-living room
with a woodstove, a spacious sunroom, and 11⁄2 bathrooms.
15km (9 miles) from Galway center, just east of Spiddal, Coast Rd., Kellough, Spiddal, County Galway.
& 091/553364. 3 units. €68 ($82) double. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Non-
smoking rooms. In room: No phone.
WHERE TO DINE
An Crúiscín Lán CONTINENTAL The name of this family-run restau-
rant is Irish Gaelic for “The Full Jug.” The draw here is delicious local pro-
duce—especially lamb, seafood, and beef—cooked to perfection by the Foye
family team. It’s a great place to come in, relax, and enjoy good, honest cooking
and the stunning views of Galway Bay.
Coast Rd., Spiddal, County Galway. & 091/553286. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
€10–€25 ($12–$30). AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm.
Impressions
I have a total irreverence for anything connected with society except
that which makes the roads safer, the beer stronger, the food cheaper,
the old men and old women warmer in the winter and happier in the
summer.
—Brendan Behan (1923–64)
Twelve Pins SEAFOOD Named for the famous mountain range of Con-
nemara, this old-world roadside inn is a good place to come for fresh oysters or
a seafood platter (oysters, mussels, smoked salmon, and prawns). Other cre-
atively prepared seafood choices include scallops en croûte and trout Oisin
(stuffed with almonds and seafood). For non–fish eaters, the menu offers a tra-
ditional roast of the day, plus steaks, rack of lamb, duckling, vegetarian stir-fry,
and lasagna.
Coast Rd., Barna, County Galway. & 091/592368. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
€8–€35 ($9.65–$42). AE, MC, V. Daily 8am–9pm.
2 Connemara
If you look at an average map or road sign, you won’t see a marking or directions
for Connemara, because it’s not a city or town or county, but rather an area or
region, like the Burren in County Clare. In general, Connemara constitutes the
section west of Galway City, starting at Oughterard and continuing toward the
Atlantic. It is an area of astounding barrenness and beauty.
Connemara is the Anglicization of Conmaicne mara, the “descendants of
Conmac by the sea.” One could say that there are two Connemaras. South of
the Galway-Clifden road, you’ll find a vast bog-mantled, granite moorland sown
with innumerable lakes, and with a low indented coastline that is a labyrinth of
land and sea. North of the Galway-Clifden road, the tall quartzite domes and
cones of the Maum Turks and the Twelve Bens rise steeply, while other moun-
tains, formed of schist and gneiss, continue the highlands northward to the
beautiful Killary fjord—the only fjord in the British Isles—where Mayo replaces
Galway. “Connemara is a savage beauty,” Oscar Wilde once remarked. And he
was right.
CONNEMARA AREA ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND From Galway City, Bus Eire-
ann (& 091/562000; www.buseireann.ie) provides daily service to Clifden and
other small towns en route. The best way to get around Connemara is to drive,
following N59 from Moycullen and Oughterard. Or you can take a guided tour
(see “Sightseeing Tours,” below). Clifden is 65km (40 miles) west of Galway City.
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact or visit Ireland West Tourism, Aras
Fáilte, Foster Street, Galway, County Galway (& 091/537700; www.west
ireland.travel.ie). Open May, June, and September daily 9am to 5:45pm; July
and August daily 9am to 7:45pm; October to April Monday to Friday 9am to
5:45pm, Saturday 9am to 12:45pm. The Oughterard Tourist Office, Main
Street, Oughterard (& 091/552808), is open year-round Monday to Friday
from 9am to 5pm, with extended hours in the summer season. In addition, a
seasonal office, open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm between March and
October, is maintained at Clifden (& 095/21163).
CONNEMARA 409
EXPLORING THE AREA

The “capital,” or largest town in Connemara, is Clifden. The road marked N59
takes you around the heart of Connemara and then to County Mayo. You can
also follow many of the smaller roads and wander around Connemara for days.
Many people stay in this region for a week or so, usually basing themselves in
one or more of the fine resorts and inns that dot the countryside, especially in
places like Cashel, Ballynahinch, Renvyle, and Clifden.
In recent years, Clifden has exploded into a major tourist center, and it shows.
B&Bs, pubs, and shops arm-wrestle for space in the town center, which for the
first time in its history is experiencing gridlock. Even so, it remains an attractive
town, whose past and present can be seen on the two sides of its buildings—
their backs gray and worn, their fronts bright and alluring.
Better yet, for a slower, more intact taste of Connemara town life, give the
small, active fishing port of Roundstone a try. Roundstone is definitely on
the move and already has all of the essentials: glorious, pristine beaches; com-
fortable guesthouses; good restaurants; quality galleries and shops; and more
than its share of natural charm. It’s not exactly a secret, but for the time being it
is blessedly just off the well-beaten track.
Another untrammeled Connemara treasure lies 11km (7 miles) offshore. A
day spent on the island of Inishbofin—provided the weather is on your side—
is one you’ll not soon forget. (See “An Excursion to Inishbofin,” below.)
Little bays and inlets, small harbors, and beaches dot the coastline. At almost
every turn are lakes, waterfalls, rivers, and creeks, while a dozen glorious moun-
tains, known as the Twelve Bens (sometimes called the Twelve Pins), rise at the
center. All of this is interspersed with rock-strewn land and flat fields of open
bog, rimmed with gorse and heather, rhododendrons, and wildflowers. The
tableau presents a dramatic panorama of sea and sky, land and bog.
Connemara’s bog lands began forming 2,500 years ago. During the Iron Age,
the Celts preserved their butter in the bog. Today, with one-third of Connemara
classified as bog, the turf (or peat) that’s cut from the bog remains an important
source of fuel. Cutting and drying turf is an integral part of the rhythm of the
seasons in Connemara. Cutting requires a special tool, a spade called a slane,
which slices the turf into bricks about 46 centimeters (18 in.) long. The bricks
are spread out to dry and stiffen so that they can be stacked in pyramids to per-
mit air circulation for further drying. Finally, they’re piled up along the roadside
for transport. You can always tell when a family is burning turf in a fireplace—
the smoke coming out of the chimney is blue and sweet-scented.
As you drive around Connemara, you’re sure to notice the absence of trees,
felled and dragged off long ago for building English ships, houses, and furniture.
(More of Cromwell’s handiwork.) In recent years, however, the Irish government
has undertaken an aggressive reforestation program, and vast areas of land have
been set aside for planting trees, mostly pines, as a crop.
A trademark of this region is the donkey, still a worker on the farms. In some
places, you’ll see a sturdy little horse known as the Connemara pony, the only
Impressions
Constantly the heart releases
Wild geese to the past
Look, how they circle poignant places.
—Thomas Kinsella (b. 1928): “A Lady of Quality”
horse breed native to Ireland (although it’s had an infusion of Spanish blood
over the centuries). Often raised in tiny fields with limestone pastures, these ani-
mals have great stamina and are invaluable for farming and pulling equipment.
The Connemara pony is also noted for its gentle temperament, which makes it
ideal for children’s riding.
A major part of Connemara is designated as a Gaeltacht, or Irish-speaking
area, so you may hear many of the people conversing in their native tongue. Tra-
ditional music thrives in this part of the countryside, as do handcrafts and cot-
tage industries.
The much-imitated Aran knit sweaters are synonymous with this region.
Made of oatmeal-colored wool from the native sheep, these semiwaterproof
sweaters were first knit by the women of the nearby Aran Islands for their fish-
ermen husbands and sons, and each family had a different stitch or pattern.
Years ago, the patterns were not only a matter of aesthetics, they served as the
chief way to identify men who had drowned in the treacherous waters off
the coast. Today these sweaters are hand-knit in the homes of Connemara and the
nearby Aran Islands, then sold in the many craft shops throughout the region.
T H E T O P AT T R A C T I O N S
Aughnanure Castle Standing on a rocky island close to the shores of
Lough Corrib, this castle is a well-preserved example of a six-story Irish tower
house, with an unusual double bawn (a fortified enclosure) and a watchtower. It
was built around A.D. 1500 as a stronghold of the O’Flaherty clan.
32km (20 miles) west of Galway City, signposted off N59, Clifden rd., Oughterard, County Galway.
& 091/552214. Admission €2.50 ($3) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.30 ($1.55) students and children,
€6.50 ($7.85) families. Mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9:30am–6:30pm.
Connemara National Park Kids This stunning national park incor-

porates nearly 2,000 hectares (5,000 acres) of Connemara’s mountains, bogs,
heaths, and grasslands. The grounds are home to herds of Connemara ponies
and Irish red deer, as well as a variety of birds and smaller mammals. To orient
and acquaint visitors with all the aspects of the park, the handsome exhibition
center offers a series of displays and an informative 20-minute audiovisual pres-
entation. Tea, coffee, soup, sandwiches, and freshly baked goods are on hand in
the tearoom. If you’re up to it, test your willpower against the cheesecake. Dur-
ing July and August, Tuesday and Thursday are “nature days” for children; on
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, there are guided walks for the whole family.
Call the center for information on these and other special programs.
Clifden-Westport rd. (N59), Letterfrack, County Galway. & 095/41054. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2
($2.40) groups and seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) children and students, €7 ($8.45) families. Park open year-round.
Visitor center open daily Apr–May and Sept to mid-Oct 10am–5:30pm; June 10am–6:30pm; July–Aug
9:30am–6:30pm. Visitor center closed late Oct to Mar.
Dan O’Hara’s Homestead Farm We feel admission to this attraction is

quite pricey (especially since rates went up last year), considering what it deliv-
ers. Still, for insight into how Connemara farmers find soil to till on this rocky
land, you may want to head to this small farm. It was once owned by Dan O’Hara,
but the harsh conditions and high taxes of the time forced him to emigrate to the
United States. Today the expanded center incorporates a 3.2-hectare (8-acre)
prefamine farm and reflects daily life in the 1840s, with local people using
traditional tilling and farming methods. The land also contains a reconstructed
CONNEMARA 411
Moments An Excursion to Inishbofin
It has been said that Ireland’s last unspoiled frontiers are its islands,
and Inishbofin, on its own, makes a strong contribution to that claim.
This small emerald-green gem lies 11km (7 miles) off the northwest
coast of Connemara and offers not only seclusion but spectacular
beauty, provided the skies are clear enough to deliver the not-to-be-
believed views of and from its shores. Once the domain of monks, then
the lair of pirate queen Grace O’Malley, later Cromwell’s infamous
priest-prison, and currently home to a mere 180 year-round residents,
Inishbofin is both steeped in history and oozing with charm. It’s well
worth a day’s expedition or a 1- or 2-day stay.
Numerous ferries to the island leave from and return to the sleepy
port of Cleggan (13km/8 miles northwest of Clifden off N59) daily April
through October. Inishbofin Island Tours, Kings of Cleggan, Cleggan,
County Galway (& 095/44878), operates the largest, newest, and
fastest boat, the Island Discovery. Tickets cost €16 ($19) per adult and
€8 ($9.65) per child, round-trip, and are available at the company
office in Cleggan. Note: It’s important, even necessary, to book in
advance. The other option, which we prefer, is to ride with Paddy
O’Halloran (& 095/45806) on the Dun Aengus, the island’s worn and
worthy mail boat. The Dun Aengus remains the vessel of choice for
most locals. It has both more charm and more roll than its newer rival,
and skipper O’Halloran, after a half-century at the wheel, definitely
knows the way. Tickets (€15/$18 per person, round-trip) for the Dun
Aengus are available at the Spar Foodstore in Cleggan (& 095/44750).
crannóg (fortified lake dwelling), an authentic megalithic tomb, and a dolmen.

Attached to the farm and heritage center, farmhouse accommodations and some
self-catering cottages are available.
About 6.5km (4 miles) east of Clifden off the main N59 rd., Lettershea, Clifden, County Galway.
& 095/21246. Admission €7 ($8.45) adults, €6 ($7.50) seniors and students, €3.50 ($4.20) children, €17
($20) families. Daily 10am–6pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
Kylemore Abbey Originally a private residence (ca. 1868), this castel-

lated house overlooking Kylemore Lake is a splendid example of neo-Gothic
architecture. In 1920 it was turned over to the Benedictine nuns, who have since
opened the grounds and part of the house to the public. The highlight is the
recently restored Gothic chapel, considered a miniature cathedral. The complex
also includes a cafe, which serves produce grown on the nuns’ farm; a shop with
a working pottery studio; and a visitor center where a video presentation gives
you an overview of life at Kylemore, both past and present. The abbey is most
atmospheric when the bells are rung for midday office or for vespers at 6pm.
Though increasingly commercialized in recent years, it is still a truly lovely site.
Kylemore, County Galway. & 095/41146. www.kylemoreabbey.com. Admission €10 ($12) adults, €6.50
($7.85) seniors and students. Abbey year-round daily 9am–5:30pm. Garden Easter–Sept daily
10:30am–4:30pm.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
Several companies offer sightseeing tours of Connemara from Galway or Clifden.
Bus Eireann Departing from the bus station in Galway, this 8-hour tour of
Connemara takes in Maam Cross, Recess, Roundstone, and Clifden, as well as
Kylemore Abbey, Leenane, and Oughterard. It’s available in the summertime only.
Ceannt Station, Galway, County Galway. & 091/562000. www.buseireann.ie. Tour €22 ($27) adults, €16
($19) seniors, students, and children, €55 ($66) families with up to 3 children. June–Aug Sun–Fri 10am.
Connemara Walking Centre This company’s expert local guides lead walk-
ing tours of Connemara, with an emphasis on history and archaeology as well as
scenery. The walks cover different sections—from the Renvyle Peninsula and
Roundstone Bog to the Kylemore Valley, the Maumturk Mountains, and Sky
Road. The tour to Inishbofin Island includes a 45-minute boat trip. Weeklong
walking trips are based at Dun Gibbons, a center dedicated to exploring Con-
nemara’s countryside. All walks assemble at Island House in Clifden and include
bus transportation to the walking site. Advance reservations are required.
The Island House, Market St., Clifden, County Galway. & 095/21379. www.walkingireland.com. Tours €20
($24). Tours offered Mar–Oct; call for times and a detailed price list.
Corrib Cruises Departing from the pier at Oughterard, this company’s sight-
seeing boat cruises across Lough Corrib, Ireland’s largest lake, measuring 176 sq.
km (68 sq. miles) with 365 islands. The cruise stops at Inchagoill Island, home
of a 12th-century monastery that was inhabited until the 1940s. One trip visits
the island only, and the other goes to the island and to Cong in County Mayo,
site of Ashford Castle (p. 430) and the area where the movie The Quiet Man was
filmed. The Cong-Oughterard round-trip cruise can start at either place. In fact,
there are currently four different day cruises on offer, as well as an evening Irish
Hour (happy hour) cruise.
Oughterard, County Galway. & 092/46029 or 092/46292. www.corribcruises.com. 90-min. round-trip cruise
to island €12 ($14) adults, €6 ($7.50) children, €25 ($30) families; Cong-Oughterard round-trip day cruise
€16 ($19) adults, €7 ($8.45) children, €32 ($39) families. May–Sept daily. Be sure to book ahead and to
confirm times.
SHOPPING
Avoca Handweavers This is the Connemara branch of the famous Wicklow
weavers. About 9.7km (6 miles) north of Clifden on an inlet of the bay, sur-
rounded by colorful flower gardens, this shop has one of the loveliest and most
photographed locations in Ireland. It features colorful tweeds, as well as all sorts
of Connemara-made marble souvenirs, candles, jewelry, books, music, wood
carvings, pottery, and knits. A snack shop is on the premises. Open April
through October daily from 9:30am until at least 6pm. Clifden–Leenane rd. (N59),
Dooneen Haven, Letterfrack, County Galway. & 095/41058.
Celtic Shop This shop offers a wide array of arts and crafts, including gold
and silver Celtic jewelry, hand-woven Irish rugs, knitwear, hats, ceramics, and
crystal. You’ll also find a good selection of Irish and Celtic books. Open daily
9am to 6pm from September through June; daily from 9am to 9pm in July and
August. Main St., Clifden, County Galway. & 095/21064.
Connemara Marble Visitor Centre Connemara’s unique green marble—
diverse in color, marking, and veining—is quarried, cut, shaped, and polished
here. Estimated by geologists to be about 500 million years old, the marble
shows twists and interlocking bands of serpentine in various shades, ranging
from light lime green to dark emerald. On weekdays you’ll see craftspeople at
CONNEMARA 413
work hand-fashioning marble jewelry, paperweights, ashtrays, Celtic crosses,

and other giftware. Open daily from 9am to 5:30pm. 13km (8 miles) west of Galway
City on Galway-Clifden rd. (N59), Moycullen, County Galway. & 091/555102.
Fuchsia Craft Wedged in the center of Oughterard’s main thoroughfare, this
small shop is a treasure trove of unusual, hard-to-find crafts, produced by more
than 100 craftspeople throughout Ireland. The items include handmade fishing
flies, products made from pressed Irish peat, bronze sculptures, recycled art cards
of Connemara scenes, decorative metal figurines fashioned from nails, and lith-
ographs of early Ireland—as well as pottery, crystal, jewelry, knitwear, and much
more. Open daily 9am to 10pm from June through September; daily 9am to
7pm in April, May, and October; and Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm from
November through March. The Square, Oughterard, County Galway. & 091/552644.
Millars Connemara Tweed Ltd. This is the home of the colorful Con-
nemara tweeds, an industry started in 1900 by Robert Millar as a small mill to
process wool from local mountain sheep. Although most people travel to Clif-
den just to buy Millar’s skeins of wool or hand-woven materials—plus ready-
made ties, hats, caps, scarves, blankets, and bedspreads—today’s shop is more
than just an outlet for wool. You’ll also find Irish patchwork, rush baskets, Aran
crios belts, embroidery work, handmade miniature currachs, tin whistles, and
blackthorn pipes, plus an art gallery of regional paintings. Open Monday to Sat-
urday from 9am to 6pm, with extended summer hours. Main St., Clifden, County Gal-
way. & 095/21038.
Roundstone Musical Instruments A master craftsman, Malachy Kearn is
one of the only full-time bodhran (an ancient one-sided frame drum) makers in
the world, and one of Ireland’s most beloved celebrities. His contributions to
Irish music recently earned him a place on a postage stamp. For the most reso-
nant results on a bodhran, it is vital to have one of the quality goatskins Malachy
seeks out from his various far-flung suppliers. Many of Ireland’s most renowned
musicians, including those who created the sounds of Riverdance, play Malachy
Kearns’s instruments. While you wait, his artist wife, Anne, can decorate the
skin with Celtic designs, initials, family crests, or any design you request in old
Gaelic script. Malachy’s workshop also makes wooden flutes (ebony), tin whis-
tles, and Irish harps, and he has an excellent mail-order service. Open daily 9am
to 6pm from May through October; Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 6pm
November through April. The Monastery, Michael Killeen Park, Roundstone, County Galway.
& 095/35875. www.bodhran.com.
Sheepchandler Gallery Ensconced in an attractive location in the center of
Roundstone, Katherine Parisot’s fine gallery is a true delight. Her thoughtful selec-
tion of works by many of the finest contemporary artists in Ireland provides a
focused glimpse into the country’s art scene as well as many temptations to bring
home more than a sweater or a cap. Open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to
5pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm. Roundstone Harbour, County Galway. & 095/35040.
Síla Mag Aoide Designs (Sheila Magee) Sheila Magee is one of Ire-
land’s most noteworthy artisans. Although inspired by ancient Celtic images and
designs, her work is original and contemporary. In addition to a wide selection
of her handmade silver jewelry, the shop offers a range of works, including
watercolor prints and art cards of Connemara scenes, baskets, handmade
wooden pencils, and miniature frames. Open daily from 9am to 9pm May to
September, with shorter off-season hours. The Monastery, Michael Killeen Park, Round-
stone, County Galway. & 095/35912. www.thehouseofmagaoide.com.
Malachy Kearns, the Bodhran Maker

I remember the first time I saw a bodhran. I remember the first time I
heard one. I was about 8 years old. I can remember the hair standing up
on the back of my neck!
My father brought me to a family funeral in Donegal. It was away up
in the north of Donegal somewhere near Crolly, and this would have
been in the late Fifties.
We buried the man. I remember it was a cold afternoon too and
afterwards the men adjourned to a pub in the village and, like a million
boys of my age before and since, I was stuffed to the tonsils with
orange squash and lemonade while the grown-ups drank fiery glasses
of whiskey and big black pints of porter. There was a fireplace with an
open fire and I remember sitting beside it, late in the evening, bored
and stupefied with fizzy drinks and adult talking.
Then there was a bit of excitement at the door of the bar and who
came in but the legendary fiddle player called Johnny Doherty, a man
whose name is still spoken with near reverence by Irish musicians every-
where. He was thin and hardy and he had his fiddle, I think, in a green
velvet sack instead of a timber case. He had small quick hands and a very
quiet way about him. There was another man with him and he had a
sack with him, too, a jute one this time, and when he left it down on the
floor beside me, carefully, I heard it make a boomy kind of noise.
Johnny Doherty, still regarded as the prince of Donegal fiddlers, was
a master musician who was also a semi-traveller. He moved all around
Donegal at different times of the year staying and playing in selected

For location, facilities, and quality of instruction, Delphi Adventure Centre ,
Leenane, County Galway (& 095/42307; www.delphiadventureholidays.ie), is
one of the best of the many adventure centers in Ireland. Courses are available
in a wide range of watersports, as well as in mountaineering, pony trekking, ten-
nis, and archery. Accommodations are in bright, simply furnished single or
dorm-style rooms. The food in the dining room is good and plentiful, and veg-
etarian meals can be arranged. Residential adventure holidays for children are
offered. Weekend prices for room, full board, and activities begin at €185
($223) for an adult. The nonresidential activities fee for 1 full day is €45 ($54).
Water-skiing and horseback riding are available at additional cost. This place
caters primarily to people in their 20s and 30s.
BICYCLING Bicycles can be hired year-round from John Mannion & Son,
Bridge Street, Clifden, County Galway (& 095/21160). The rate for a regular
touring bike in high season is €9 ($11) per day. Mountain bikes can be hired
from May through October at the Little Killary Adventure Company,
Leenane, County Galway (& 095/43411; www.killary.com). They go for €20
($24) per day, and road bikes for €14 ($17) per day. If you’d like to plan a hol-
iday around cycling in this part of the country, Irish Cycling Tours (& 095/
42302; www.irishcyclingtours.com) offers guided and self-guided bike tours of
Connemara.
CONNEMARA 415
houses for weeks and months at a time. It was a great honour to have
him stay in your house and make his music under your roof. People
came from everywhere just to hear him play.
Even as a child I knew there was something special about him when
he began to play in that pub. He was sitting in the chair opposite me,
swaying a bit in the gale of his own jigs and reels, his eyes empty and
full in his face at the same time, as if they were seeing the music, in
some strange way, and nothing else. The men that were standing lis-
tening, and sitting listening, were silent, except to say, “Good man,
Johnny” now and again, and they even forgot that they had drinks in
their hands. It was beautiful stuff.
But after a while it was even better because the other man that
was with Johnny Doherty . . . and somebody told me he was a real
traveller . . . he eventually took the first bodhran I ever saw out of the
jute bag. He warmed it to the fire, rubbing it now and again so that it
muttered and grumbled almost, and then, without any beater, just like
I am now this minute, he began to play.
And it was absolutely mighty.
I’m telling ye that the hair stood up on the back of my neck. I was
mesmerized. That was certainly the occasion that determined, later in
life, that I would become a bodhran maker.
—From Wallup! by Malachy Kearns.
Printed with permission of the author. Available at bookstores
and from Roundstone Musical Instruments (www.bodhran.com).
DIVING You can rent equipment and receive instruction at Scubadive West,
Renvyle, County Galway (& 095/43922; fax 095/43923; www.scubadive
west.com).
FISHING Lough Corrib is renowned for brown-trout and salmon fishing.
Brown-trout fishing is usually good from the middle of February, and salmon is
best from the end of May. The mayfly fishing begins around the middle of May
and continues for up to 3 weeks.
Angling on Lough Corrib is free, but a state license is required for salmon. For
expert advice and rental equipment, contact the Cloonnabinnia Angling Cen-
tre, Moycullen, County Galway (& 091/555555).
For salmon and sea trout, the Ballynahinch Castle Fishery at Ballynahinch,
Recess (& 095/31006), is an angler’s paradise. State fishing licenses, tackle hire
and sales, maps, and great advice are available at the hotel.
At Portarra Lodge, Tullykyne, Moycullen, County Galway (& 091/555-
051; fax 091/555-052; www.portarralodge.com), packages are available, includ-
ing B&B accommodations in a modern guesthouse on the shores of Lough
Corrib, dinners, and boats and tackle. Michael Canney is an avid angler and a
great guide to this part of Galway. A double room with full breakfast is €60
($75) per night. Weekly packages that include half-board, boat, and ghillie
(guide) are also available.
Lough Inagh & the Walk to Maum Ean Oratory

Lough Inagh, nestled between the Maumturk and The Twelve Ben
Mountains in the heart of Connemara, is situated in one of the most
spectacularly beautiful valleys in Ireland. The mountain slopes rise pre-
cipitously from the valley floor, and many small streams cascade into
the lake in a series of sparkling waterfalls. The R344 cuts through the
valley, linking Recess to the south and Kylemore Lake to the north.
The Western Way, a walking route that traverses the high country
of Galway and Mayo, follows a quiet country road above the R344
through the Lough Inagh Valley. To reach the beginning of the walk,
drive north on the R344, turning right on a side road—sign for Maum
Ean—about 200m (656 ft.) before the Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel. Con-
tinue on this side road for 6.5km (4 miles) to a large gravel parking lot
on the left. Park here, and follow the well-worn trail 2km (1.3 miles)
to the top of the pass, through glorious mountain scenery.
This short (4km/2.5-mile) walk follows the Western Way to the top
of a mountain pass that has long been associated with St. Patrick, and
that is now the site of a small oratory, a hollow in the rock known as
Patrick’s Bed, a life-size statue of the saint, and a series of cairns mark-
ing the Stations of the Cross. Together, these monuments make a strik-
ing ensemble, strangely eerie when the mists descend and conceal the
far slopes in their shifting haze. On a clear day there are great views
from here, with the Atlantic Ocean and Bertraghboy Bay to the south-
west and another range of mountains to the northeast. The round-trip
walking time is about 1 hour.
GOLF Visitors are welcome at the 18-hole, par-72 championship seaside

course of the Connemara Golf Club, Ballyconneely, Clifden (& 095/23502),
nestled in the heart of Connemara and overlooking the Atlantic. Greens fees
from May to September are €50 ($60) weekdays, €55 ($66) weekends; Octo-
ber to April, €40 ($48) weekdays, €45 ($54) weekends.
The Oughterard Golf Club, Oughterard, County Galway (& 091/552131),
is an 18-hole, par-70 inland course. Greens fees are €35 ($42).
HORSEBACK RIDING Explore the stunningly beautiful Connemara Coast
from May to September with Connemara and Coast Trails, Loughrea, County
Galway (& 091/841216; www.connemara-trails.com). Rides are for experi-
enced and beginning riders alike. Riding is €20 ($24) per person per hour.
WALKING Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord, rimmed by mountains on
both sides, is remote and wild at its western, seaward end. The green road, now
a sheep track for much of its length, was once the primary route from the Rin-
vyle Peninsula to Leenane. The famine devastated this area; you’ll pass an aban-
doned prefamine village on the far side of the harbor, the fields rising at a
devilishly steep slope from the ruined cottages, clustered at the water’s edge. This
is a walk into Ireland’s recent past, when many lived by subsistence farming and
fishing, always perilously close to disaster.
CONNEMARA 417
WATERSPORTS Hobie Cat sailing and sailboarding can be arranged at the

Little Killary Adventure Company, Leenane, County Galway (& 095/43411;
www.killary.com). Rates are €61 ($74) per day (two sessions), which entitles
you to use the watersports equipment and participate in all the center’s super-
vised sporting activities, including kayaking, water-skiing, hill and coastal walk-
ing, rock climbing, archery, and more.
WHERE TO STAY
EXPENSIVE
Cashel House Hotel Set on 20 hectares (50 acres) of exotic gardens and
woodlands, this 150-year-old country house is nestled deep in the mountains
and lake lands of Connemara. Run since 1968 by Dermot and Kay McEvilly, it
has attracted a range of discerning guests over the years, including President and
Madame de Gaulle, who spent 2 weeks here in 1969 and put Cashel House on
the map. Guest rooms, which have wide-windowed views of the bay or the gar-
dens, are decorated with Irish floral fabrics, European antiques, sheepskin rugs,
rattan pieces, vintage paintings, and local heirlooms. The hotel has a private
beach on the bay, a tennis court, fishing, and signposted walking paths. The pri-
vate stables offer riding lessons, dressage, and mountain trekking.
Cashel Bay, Cashel, County Galway. & 800/323-5463 or 800/735-2478 in the U.S. or 095/31001. Fax
095/31077. www.cashel-house-hotel.com. 32 units. €220–€240 ($265–$289) double. Rates include full
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Jan. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; tennis court; nonsmoking
rooms; library; private beach. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Abbeyglen Castle On a hilltop overlooking Clifden and the bay, this
property dates from the 1820s, although it gained its castlelike facade only
within the past 20 years. Happily, the turrets and battlements blend in well with
the Connemara countryside. Abbeyglen is a splendidly informal Irish hotel—the
kind of place where a parrot in reception confuses staff by mimicking the tele-
phone, and the piano bar brings guests together in a house party atmosphere.
The recently refurbished public areas have brass candelabra chandeliers, arched
windows, and vintage settees. Guest rooms are large and comfortable and have
crown canopies. Personable manager Brian Hughes can arrange fishing trips,
packed lunches, and a host of other local activities. Note: Rates are half-board
and comprise bed, breakfast, and dinner.
Sky Rd., Clifden, County Galway. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 095/21201. Fax 095/21797. www.abbey
glen.ie. 45 units. €200–€280 ($241–$337) double. Half-board rates include full breakfast and dinner. AE,
MC, V. Closed early Jan to Feb. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; outdoor swimming pool; tennis
court; Jacuzzi; sauna; miniature golf; solarium. In room: TV.
Ballynahinch Castle Set on an enchanting 140-hectare (350-acre)

estate at the base of Ben Lettery, one of the Twelve Ben mountains, this turreted,
gabled manor house overlooks the Owenmore River. Dating from the 16th cen-
tury, it has served over the years as a base for the O’Flaherty chieftains and the sea
pirate Grace O’Malley. It was also the sporting residence of the Maharajah Jans
Sahib Newanagar, better known as Ranjitsinhgi, the famous cricketer. The ambi-
ence can be best described as country-house casual; the place feels luxurious and
your every need will be satisfied by the efficient staff, yet there’s absolutely no
stuffiness or pretentiousness here. The guest rooms are individually decorated, and
many have fireplaces and four-poster or canopy beds (all are orthopedic). Most of
all, however, this is a sportsman’s lodge, one that is particularly renowned for top-
notch sea trout and salmon fishing. Each evening, the day’s catch is weighed in and
recorded at the Fishermen’s Bar, usually creating a cause for celebration.
Recess, County Galway. & 095/31006. Fax 095/31085. www.ballynahinch-castle.com. 40 units.
€170–€400 ($205–$482) double. Suites also available. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed
Feb. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; tennis courts; limited room service; babysitting; library; private
fishing. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Lough Inagh Lodge This handsome fishing-and-sporting lodge has one

of the most enviable locations in Connemara, standing alone on the shore of the
tranquil Lough Inagh. Without another building in sight, you truly feel like
you’re swallowed up in the region’s stunning solitude, with only the splashing of
fish in Lough Inagh to disturb the silence. It is an infinitely relaxing place.
Inside, the public rooms strike a note of warm hospitality, with open log fires in
the library and the oak-paneled bar. Guest rooms are beautifully appointed with
period furnishings and are quite spacious for this price range; most include a
separate dressing room. Request a room in the front of the house, overlooking
the lake and the Twelve Bens.
Recess, County Galway. & 800/323-5463 or 800/735-2478 in the U.S. or 095/34706. Fax 095/34708.
www.loughinaghlodgehotel.ie. 12 units. €178–€212 ($214–$255) double. Rates include service charge and full
breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Jan–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; library. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Renvyle House Originally the residence of the Blake family, this grand
old house sits on a 80-hectare (200-acre) estate along the Atlantic shoreline in the
wilds of Connemara. It was purchased in 1917 by Oliver St. John Gogarty, a lead-
ing Irish poet, wit, surgeon, and politician, who fondly called this secluded
seascape and mountain setting “the world’s end.” That’s putting it mildly: It really
is off the beaten track, not ideal for a quick overnight, but perfect for a stay of a
few days or longer. In his day, Gogarty invited his many friends to visit; W. B.
Yeats honeymooned here, and Churchill was a frequent guest. Updated and
refurbished in recent years by current owner Hugh Coyle, it retains a turn-of-the-
20th-century ambience, particularly in its public areas. Guest rooms vary in size
and decor, from grand rooms with balconies to cozy attic rooms with dormer
windows. Along with a long list of sporting amenities, the hotel also hosts a range
of events, such as murder-mystery weekends, fly-fishing clinics, and painting
weekends. Note: Rates are half-board and comprise bed, breakfast, and dinner.
Renvyle, County Galway. & 095/43511. Fax 095/43515. www.renvyle.com. 65 units. €180–€300
($217–$361) double. Half-board rate includes service charge, full Irish breakfast, and dinner. AE, DC, MC, V.
Closed Jan–Feb 15. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; outdoor swimming pool; 9-hole golf course; 2
tennis courts; boating; horseback riding. In room: TV.
Zetland Country House Hotel Here’s yet another fine fishing lodge in
Connemara, and the staff is extraordinarily accommodating to anglers. Built in
1850 as a sporting lodge, this three-story manor house was named for the earl
of Zetland, a frequent visitor during the 19th century. Surrounded by lush gar-
dens and ancient trees, Zetland is run by John Prendergast, a Paris-trained hote-
lier. The guest rooms, many of which look out onto the bay, have antique or
reproduction furnishings. The dining room is known for its local seafood and
lamb dishes, and its vegetables and fruit come from the inn’s kitchen garden.
The Zetland owns the Gowla Fishery, one of the best private sea-trout fisheries
in Ireland, encompassing 14 lakes and 6.5km (4 miles) of river.
Cashel Bay, Cashel, County Galway. & 800/448-8355 in the U.S. or 095/31111. Fax 095/31117. www.
zetland.com. 19 units. €160–€230 ($193–$277) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed
Nov–Mar. Amenities: Tennis court; billiards room; croquet. In room: TV, hair dryer.
CONNEMARA 419
M O D E R AT E
Connemara Gateway Less than 1.6km (1 mile) from the village of
Oughterard and 26km (16 miles) west of Galway City, this contemporary two-
story inn is well positioned. It sits on its own grounds, near the upper shores of
Lough Corrib and across the road from an 18-hole golf course. Although it has
a rambling modern exterior, a hearth-side ambience permeates the interior, with
leafy plants and homey bric-a-brac in the corridors. Guest rooms have a smart
look, with local tweed fabrics and hangings, oak dressers and headboards, and
scenes of Connemara.
Galway-Clifden rd. (N59), Oughterard, County Galway. & 091/552328. Fax 091/552332. www.sinnott
hotels.com/gateway/default.asp. 62 units. €110–€190 ($133–$229) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE,
DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor swimming pool; tennis court; sauna; nonsmok-
ing rooms; croquet; solarium; walking trails. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
Delphi Lodge Finds Ranked among the top-20 fishing lodges in Ireland,
Delphi Lodge is a gorgeous private country house in a breathtaking, wild, unde-
filed setting. Built in the early 19th century as a sportsman’s hideaway for the mar-
quis of Sligo, it occupies a landscape of crystalline lakes and rivers, hardwood
forests, unspoiled ocean beaches, and luminous mountain slopes. All that, plus
salmon and sea trout outside the front door, just waiting to be caught. The rooms
are spacious and fashionably simple, furnished in antiques with an informally ele-
gant touch. Owner and fly fisherman Peter Mantle can supply you with everything
you need to go fishing—permits, licenses, and equipment rental. The kitchen staff
can prepare your own catch of the day, or send it to you at home, smoked, after
you return. Special 3-day weekend packages, including courses in fly tying, water-
colors, wine appreciation, and other diversions, are also available in the off season.
The Delphi Estate and Fishery, Leenane, County Galway. & 095/42222. Fax 095/42296. www.delphilodge.ie.
12 units, 5 cottages. €130–€190 ($157–$229) double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. 2- and 3-bedroom
self-catering cottages €400–€1,000 ($482–$1,205) per week. AE, MC, V. Closed Christmas and New Year’s
holidays. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV.
Dolphin Beach House Originally a homestead in the early 19th century,

Dolphin Beach House is a stylish, restful place to base yourself in Connemara.
The main house has been restored, and bedrooms have been added—spacious
bedrooms with soaring ceilings, underfloor heating, antique furnishings, pristine
bed linens, spellbinding views, and the beach just a stone’s throw away. It all com-
bines for a feeling of homespun luxury. Meals are fashioned mainly from ingre-
dients produced on the 5.6-hectare (14-acre) estate; you can even collect your
own eggs for breakfast if you wish. This is a truly special destination in itself.
Lower Sky Rd., Clifden, County Galway. & 095/21204. Fax 095/22935. www.connemara.net/Dolphin
BeachHouse. 8 units. €120–€150 ($145–$181) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Nov–Feb.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental). In room: TV.
Rock Glen Country House Hotel Originally an 18th-century hunting

lodge, this rambling country house sits amid lovely gardens about 2.4km (11⁄2
miles) south of Clifden. Expanded over the years and now in the hands of John
and Evangeline Roche, Rock Glen is set back from the road, with views of Ard-
bear Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a restful spot, with tastefully furnished
rooms and public areas. Most rooms, including the restaurant, face the sea, and
half the guest rooms are on the ground floor.
Ballyconneely Rd., Clifden, County Galway. & 095/21035. Fax 095/21737. 27 units. €140–€170
($169–$205) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); tennis court; fishing privileges; putting green. In room: TV, hair dryer,
garment press, radio.
Sweeney’s Oughterard House A favorite with anglers, this ivy-covered,

200-year-old Georgian house has been run by the Sweeney-Higgins family since
1913. Across the road from the rushing, salmon-filled waters of the Owenriff
River, the inn is surrounded by flowering gardens and ancient trees on the quiet
western end of the village. The public rooms have an old-world charm, thanks
to multipaned bow windows, a fine selection of Victorian, Edwardian, and
Georgian furnishings, and original artworks by 20th-century Irish artists. The
guest rooms vary in size and decor, from antiques-filled to modern light-wood
styles, some with four-poster or king-size beds. It’s a great spot for fishing, tak-
ing long country walks, or catching up on your reading. There’s a good dining
room (book ahead) with an extensive wine cellar (more than 300 wines).
Galway-Clifden rd. (N59), Oughterard, County Galway. & 091/552207. Fax 091/552161. www.sweeneys-
hotel.com. 20 units. €110–€200 ($133–$241) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed
Nov–Feb. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Doonmore Hotel Kids This seasoned waterfront hotel enjoys a prime loca-
tion on Inishbofin, with stunning views of the open sea and of nearby Inishshark
and High Island. Small boats dot the bay and there is even a seal colony just
beyond the hotel’s front doors. A range of room options is available, including
spacious family units with children’s bunk beds. The appealing, unpretentious
rooms in the newish expansion are clean, full of light, and tastefully furnished
with simple pine furniture. The older rooms in the original hotel building are
somewhat worn but comfortable; some enjoy the hotel’s finest sea views. All
rooms have firm beds. The hotel offers facilities for sea angling and scuba div-
ing. Inishbofin is well known for both. The Doonmore is a short walk from the
ferry and provides van service to and from the main harbor on request.
Inishbofin Island, County Galway. &/fax 095/45804. www.doonmorehotel.com. 25 units. €72–€110
($87–$133) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (Conti-
nental); bar; sitting room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
INEXPENSIVE
Errisbeg Lodge Conveniently proximate to Roundstone yet blessedly
ensconced between mountainside and sea, Errisbeg Lodge is a place where you
may plan to spend a night and wind up lingering for days. Jackie and Shirley
King’s family land, reaching high onto the slopes of Errisbeg Mountain and
sloping down to the sea, is a sublime haven for innumerable rare species of wild-
flowers and birds, and Jackie loves nothing more than sharing these wonders
with his guests. The Atlantic is spread out before you, with two glorious white-
sand beaches a few hundred yards away on foot. Guest rooms are rustic and
serenely spare, with stucco walls, light pine furniture, and pastel floral com-
forters, with either mountain or ocean views. It’s all about tranquillity here and
warm, gracious hospitality.
Just over 1.6km (1 mile) outside of Roundstone on Clifden Rd., Roundstone, County Galway. &/fax
095/35807. www.connemara.net/errisbeg-lodge. 5 units. €70–€80 ($84–$96) double. Rates include full
breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Dec–Jan. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms.
Glen Valley House and Stables At the base of a remote glaciated valley, this
award-winning B&B redefines “secluded.” The entrance drive follows the base
of the valley for over a mile before you arrive at the house, which has great views
across to the far line of hills. The O’Neills are helpful yet unobtrusive hosts, and
their home attracts people looking for a serene, restful setting. Don’t miss the
spectacular section of the Western Way walking trail that passes near the house
CONNEMARA 421
and follows the hills rimming Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord, with unfor-
gettable views of the harbor mouth—this is a great place to watch the sun set.
Signposted 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) west of Leenane on the Clifden rd., Glencroff, Leenane, County Galway. & 095/
42269. Fax 095/42365. 4 units, 2 with private bathroom. €60 ($75) double with shared bathroom; €70 ($84)
double with private bathroom. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: Tea/coffeemaker.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
The Signal MODERN CONTINENTAL A stream of foodies flock to
this restaurant, hidden off the courtyard at the rear of the Clifden Station House
Hotel. The draw is the imaginative cooking of Stefan Matz, who manages to
infuse even the simplest dish with zest and originality. There seems to be no dish
he can’t pull off successfully, no matter how unlikely. He loves to chargrill and
smoke, which heightens the taste of the rich flavors he favors. For instance, don’t
miss his blackened turbot, served with smoked oysters and grilled mushrooms.
Delectable desserts, too. A meal here is a culinary event, so bring your appetite.
At the rear of the Station House Hotel, on the N59, Clifden, Connemara, County Galway. & 095/22946.
Reservations recommended. Main courses €18–€26 ($22–$32). AE, MC, V. Wed–Sun 6:30–9:30pm. Closed
Oct–Apr.
M O D E R AT E
High Moors Finds MODERN CONTINENTAL Less than 1.6km (1 mile)
from Clifden, a narrow country road leads to this modern bungalow-style
restaurant, set high on a hill with panoramic views of the Atlantic and the wild
countryside. A homey ambience prevails—and well it should, because this is the
home of Hugh and Eileen Griffin, host and chef, respectively. The food and
menu appear quite simple, based on what is fresh at the markets and what veg-
etables and herbs are in season in Hugh’s organic gardens. Eileen’s specialties
include such classics as breast of chicken with basil and tomato; filet of pork
with three spices; wild salmon with sorrel butter sauce; and roast leg of Con-
nemara lamb with red currant and rosemary. Just when things seem a bit too
routine, the menu throws you some innovative zingers: monkfish with Thai
green curry or perhaps prawn-and-dill tartlet with saffron. Try to book a table
for sunset—if you can tear your attention away from the food, the views are
incredible. The views, the wonderful service, the attention that goes into each
dish—everything conspires to give a truly intimate experience.
Off the Ballyconeely rd., Dooneen, Clifden, County Galway. & 095/21342. Reservations recommended.
Main courses €14–€20 ($17–$24). AE, MC, V. Wed–Sun 6:30–10pm. Closed Nov–Easter.
O’Dowd’s Seafood Restaurant SEAFOOD This homey, traditional

restaurant overlooking the harbor has been serving up meals since 1840 and
delivers perhaps the best seafood in Roundstone at near-budget prices. The decor
is rather rustic, but everyone comes for the food. If you’re a seafood lover, all the
favorites are here: seafood chowder, crab claws in garlic butter, fresh oysters,
steamed mussels, lobster served in the shell, and piled-high fishermen’s platters.
With the harbor view and a roaring fire in the fireplace, it’s habit forming.
Roundstone Harbour, Connemara, County Galway. & 095/35809. www.odowdsrestaurant.com. Reserva-
tions recommended. Main courses €8–€20 ($9.65–$24). AE, DC, MC, V. Easter to mid-Oct daily noon–10pm.
O’Grady’s SEAFOOD Since the mid-1960s, this restaurant has been

drawing seekers of great seafood to Clifden. The menu features all that is fresh-
est from the sea, with choices such as Clifden lobster with lemon or garlic but-
ter and filet of Cleggan brill. For non–fish eaters, there’s filet of beef with radish
sauce, pork with peach stuffing in peppercorn-cream sauce, and lamb with
rosemary sauce.
Market St., Clifden, County Galway. & 095/21450. Reservations recommended for dinner. Dinner main
courses €15–€25 ($18–$30). AE, MC, V. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm and 6:30–10pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Two Dog Café MEDITERRANEAN This bright, smoke-free cafe is a
great place to relax and enjoy an array of homemade soups, Mediterranean sand-
wiches (constructed on baguettes, tortillas, and ciabatta), salads, fresh pastries,
tea, and Italian coffee. The baguette with goat’s cheese and grilled red peppers is
particularly enticing. Wine is served by the glass or bottle.
There is also an Internet cafe on the second floor, where Dell PCs and Apple
iMacs, loaded with the latest browsing software, are at the ready. You pay €2
($2.40) for the first 15 minutes, €.65 (80¢) for each additional 5 minutes, or
€8 ($9.65) per hour, with discounts for students.
Church St., Clifden, Connemara, County Galway. & 095/22186. www.twodogcafe.ie. All items €3–€7
($3.60–$8.45). MC, V. June–Sept daily 9:30am–10pm; Oct–May Tues–Sun 10:30am–6:30pm.
13
The Northwest: Mayo,
Sligo & Donegal
N orth of County Galway on the
Atlantic coast are counties Mayo,
and splendor, Donegal is definitely the
place to go. While it’s true that Done-
Sligo, Leitrim, and Donegal. gal’s austere beauty can be rather bleak
Southern Mayo is a continuation of when the weather turns gray and
stunning Connemara (see chapter 12), rainy, there’s nothing like warming
with Westport being one of the most yourself by a peat fire while Mother
popular resort towns in Ireland. Nature wreaks havoc outside. Donegal
Traveling northward, the next is particularly loved by the outdoorsy,
county is Sligo. The main appeal here sporty crowd. Several of Ireland’s
is not in its towns, which tend to be greatest natural wonders are here, such
functional rather than colorful and as the Slieve League cliffs and Horn
vibrant, but out in the countryside. Head. And the most remote, pristine,
This is Yeats Country, the landscape and beautiful beaches in the country
that soothed W. B. Yeats’s soul and are tucked into the bays and inlets of
inspired his poetry. A century later, Donegal’s sharply indented coast.
Sligo’s unspoiled marvels are still a The towns of Donegal are less
healing tonic for the workaday developed for tourism than pretty
lifestyle. The county possesses a wealth much everywhere else on the island.
of historic sites, and fans of Yeats can While buildings in many Irish towns
plot a course of pilgrimages to the tend to be prettified with vibrant
plethora of places associated with the shades of paint and adorned with
poet and his writings. flower boxes, Donegal’s towns tend to
For most visitors (and, if truth be remain the gray color of the natural
told, for most Irish, too), Leitrim is stone. Make no mistake: This is what
simply somewhere you pass through all of Ireland looked like before
on your way to and from Donegal. tourism took over, so there’s a real feel-
There are a few sites in Leitrim— ing of authenticity here. Sure, fewer
Glencar Waterfall, Dromahair, and tourists mean fewer amenities. It
Parke’s Castle—that can most easily be might be harder to ferret out a gour-
visited from Sligo town, and for this met restaurant or upscale guesthouse
reason, we’ve included them in this in a tiny seaside hamlet. In addition,
chapter. You’ll find more details on you’ll have to contend with the road
Leitrim in chapter 14, “The Mid- signs, which are cryptic or nonexistent
lands: Along the River Shannon.” on all but the national roads. But for
If you’re looking for the least-inhab- those willing to venture to Ireland’s
ited, least-touristed, and most liberat- last outpost, the thrill of discovery is
ing landscape of majestic wilderness its own reward.
424 C H A P T E R 1 3 . T H E N O R T H W E S T: M AYO, S L I G O & D O N E G A L
1 County Mayo
Mayo’s chief town (Ballina) is 101km (63 miles) N of Galway, 193km (120 miles) N of Shannon Airport, 246km
(153 miles) NW of Dublin, and 311km (193 miles) NW of Cork
Rimmed by Clew Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, County Mayo boasts many
diverse attractions, although it has been widely identified as The Quiet Man
country since the classic John Wayne movie was filmed here in 1951. The set-
ting for the film was Cong, a no-longer-so-quiet village wedged between Lough
Mask and Lough Corrib and backed up against the County Galway border.
Most of Mayo, however, has resisted the pull of Hollywood, and still has remote
bogs, beaches, cliffs, and crags where quiet splendor prevails.
Among Mayo’s other attractions are the 5,000-year-old farmstead settlement
at Ceide Fields, the Marian shrine at Knock, and some of Europe’s best fishing
waters at Lough Conn, Lough Mask, and the River Moy. Ballina, Mayo’s largest
town, calls itself the home of the Irish salmon. And Westport is a little resort
town guaranteed to steal your heart.
COUNTY MAYO ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Aer Lingus provides daily service from Dublin into
Knock International Airport, Charlestown, County Mayo (& 094/906-7222;
www.knockairport.com). Charter flights from the United States operate in the
summer. From Britain, there’s service to Knock on Aer Lingus from Birming-
ham, British Regional Airlines from Manchester, and Ryanair from London’s
Stansted. See “Getting There,” in chapter 2, “Planning Your Trip to Ireland,” for
the airlines’ phone numbers and websites.
Irish Rail and Bus Eireann (& 096/21011; www.buseireann.ie) provide
daily service from Dublin and other cities into Ballina, Westport, and Castlebar,
with bus connections into smaller towns. There is also express service from Gal-
way into most Mayo towns.
From Dublin and points east, the main N5 road leads to many points in
County Mayo; from Galway, take N84 or N17. From Sligo and points north, take
N17 or N59. To get around County Mayo, it’s best to rent a car. Three firms with
outlets at Knock International Airport are Casey Auto Rentals, Ltd. (& 094/
932-4618; www.caseycar.com), Europcar (& 094/936-7221; www.europcar.ie),
and National Car Rental (& 094/936-7252; www.carhire.ie).
VISITOR INFORMATION For year-round information, visit or contact the
Westport Tourist Office, The Mall, Westport (& 098/25711; http://west
port.mayo-ireland.ie). It’s open September through May, Monday to Saturday
from 9am to 5:45pm, and June through August, Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm.
The Knock Airport Tourist Office (& 094/936-7247) is open June to Sep-
tember at times coinciding with flight arrivals.
Seasonal tourist offices, open from May or June to September or October, are
the Ballina Tourist Office, Cathedral Road, Ballina, County Mayo (& 096/
70848); Castlebar Tourist Office, Linenhall Street, Castlebar, County Mayo
(& 094/902-1207); Knock Village Tourist Office, Knock (& 094/938-8193);
Cong Village Tourist Office (& 094/954-6542); Achill Tourist Office, Achill
Sound (& 098/45384); and Newport Tourist Office (& 098/41895).
EXPLORING THE COUNTY
Unlike many other counties, County Mayo does not have one central city
(although Westport is rapidly approaching that stature). It’s a county of many
towns, from large market and commercial centers, such as Castlebar, Claremorris,
County Mayo
0 10 mi
N E nnis
n n i s H ea
ead Airport
0 10 km Belderg 1 Ballycastle Ferry Route
Corclogh
Killala
Belmullet Bay
2
Inishkea North Killala
Bangor 3 S L I GO
SLI GO
N59 Ballina
Inishkea South
Blacksod Corssmolina Lough
N59 4 N17
Bay Conn
M A Y O N57
Doogort N E PHIN
P H I N B EG
E G RA
R A N GE
GE 5
Dooagh 6 Charlestown
A c hi
h i ll
ll Lough Foxford
I s land
land Feeagh Lough
NORTHERN Newport Cullin
IRELAND N5
Swinford
7
Newport Bay
COUNTY Clare Island N17
Castlebar
MAYO Clew Bay
Dublin
Westport N60 Knock 11
9 10 12
s
Louisburgh
REPUBLIC OF 8 Crr o agh
C a g h P a tr
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ick ain
nt
Claremorris Ballyhaunis
ills
ou
IRELAND R395 H
r e y N59 Lough
y M
eff Lough
Inishbofin Killary Sh Cara
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Mask
Harbour
Pa
Dunmore
Inishark Renvyle Lough Ballinrobe
Fee M aLeenane
amt
Cleggan Letterfrack urk Cong G ALWA
ALWAY
M oun
CONNEMARA t a in
Clifden NATIONAL PARK s Tuam
Maam Lough
Ballintubber Abbey 10
Ballyconneely Knock Folk Museum
Cross 11 Corrib Rosserk Abbey 3
Headford
Ceide Fields 1 Mayo North Heritage Centre 4 Salmon World 7
Errew Abbey 5 Moyne Abbey 2 Westport House 9
Foxford Woollen Mills 6 National Shrine of
Granuaile Centre 8 Our Lady of Knock 12
and Ballinrobe in the southern part of the county, to Ballina in the northern
reaches. Most of the attractions of interest to visitors lie in the hinterlands, in
smaller communities like Knock, Foxford, Ballycastle, Louisburgh, and Newport.
County Mayo’s loveliest town, Westport , is nestled on the shores of Clew
Bay. Once a major port, it is one of the country’s few planned towns, designed
by Richard Castle with a tree-lined mall, rows of Georgian buildings, and an
octagonal central mall, where a wonderful Thursday market is held.
Southeast of Westport is Croagh Patrick, a 750m (2,500-ft.) mountain dom-
inating the vistas of western Mayo for many miles. St. Patrick is said to have
prayed and spent the 40 days of Lent here in A.D. 441. To commemorate this
belief, each year on the last Sunday of July, thousands of Irish people make a pil-
grimage to the site, which has become known as St. Patrick’s Holy Mountain.
The rugged, bog-filled, thinly populated coast of Mayo provides little indus-
try for the locals but offers scenic drives and secluded outposts to intrigue visi-
tors. Leading the list is Achill Island, a heather-filled bog land with sandy
beaches and cliffs dropping into the Atlantic. A bridge links it to the mainland.
Clare Island, once the home of Mayo’s amazing pirate queen, Grace O’Malley,
sits south of Achill in Clew Bay.
The drive from Ballina along the edge of the northern coast to Downpatrick
Head is particularly scenic. It includes a visit to Killala, a small, secluded har-
bor village that came close to changing the course of Ireland’s history. In August
1798, France’s General Humbert landed at Killala in an abortive attempt to lead
the Irish in a full-scale rebellion against the British. For this reason, the phrase
“The Year of the French” is part of the folk memory of Mayo. Novelist Thomas
Flanagan used the incident as the basis for his best-selling novel of the same name.
You’ll find two extraordinary, ruined, 15th-century Franciscan friaries sign-
posted off the R314 between Killala and Ballina. Moyne and Rosserk are located
about 3.2km (2 miles) apart, and both are dramatically situated on the shores of
Killala Bay. The last friar at Moyne Abbey probably died in the 1800s, but pro-
cessions of brown robed monks are easily imagined in the beautiful stone clois-
ter. Rosserk Abbey is particularly fascinating: Not only are its chapel windows
well preserved but visitors can climb a winding stone stair to see the domestic
rooms of the friary and look out across the bay. The piscina of the church
(a place for washing altar vessels) is carved with angels, and on its lower-left-hand
column is a delightful detail: a tiny, elegant carving of a Round tower that recalls
its 23m-tall (75-ft.) counterpart in nearby Killala.
Ballintubber Abbey This is known as the abbey that refused to die,
because it is one of the few Irish churches that’s been in continuous use for
almost 800 years. Founded in 1216 by Cathal O’Connor, king of Connaught,
it has survived fires and other tragedies. Although the forces of Oliver Cromwell
took off the church’s roof in 1653 and attempted to suppress services, clerics per-
sisted in discreetly conducting religious rites. Completely restored in 1966, the
interior includes a video display and an interpretive center, and the grounds are
landscaped to portray spiritual themes.
Off the main Galway-Castlebar rd. (N84), about 32km (20 miles) west of Knock, Ballintubber, County Mayo.
& 094/903-0934. Free admission; €2.50 ($3) donation requested. Daily 9am–midnight.
Ceide Fields Here, in a dramatic sea-edge setting, lies the most extensive
Stone Age site in the world, revealing a pattern of once-tilled farm fields as they
were laid out 5,000 years ago (that’s older than the Egyptian Pyramids). Preserved
for millennia beneath the bog to which it had been lost, this Neolithic farming
settlement, home to the builders of the nearby megalithic tombs, was discovered
in the early 1980s. Admittedly, it’s a nearly inscrutable face, requiring all the
resources of the interpretive center to make a visit meaningful. The visitor center,
open since 1993, offers a 20-minute video presentation and tours of the site.
On R314, the coastal road north of Ballina, between Ballycastle and Belderrig, Ballycastle, County Mayo.
& 096/43325. Admission €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children,
€8.25 ($9.95) families. Mid-Mar to May and Oct daily 10am–5pm; June–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Nov daily
10am–4:30pm.
Errew Abbey This ruined 13th-century Augustinian church sits on a tiny

peninsula in Lough Conn and has great views of the lake. The cloister is well pre-
served, as is the chancel with altar and piscina. An oratory with massive stone
walls is in the field adjacent to the abbey—on the site of a church founded in the
6th century, and known locally as Templenagalliaghdoo, or “Church of the Black
Nun.” The site of the abbey is a remarkably tranquil place, and great for a picnic.
Signposted about 3.2km (2 miles) south of Crossmolina on the Castlebar road, then 5km (3 miles) down a
side road, County Mayo. No phone. Free admission.
Foxford Woollen Mills Visitor Centre Founded in 1892 by a local

nun to provide work for a community ravaged by the effects of the Irish famine,
Foxford Woollen Mills brought prosperity to the area through the worldwide
sales of beautiful tweeds, rugs, and blankets. Using a multimedia presentation,
the center tells the story of this local industry, then offers an on-site tour of the
C O U N T Y M AYO 427
Moments A Trip to Clare Island
Floating a mere 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) off the Mayo coast, just beyond Clew
Bay, Clare Island is roughly 104 sq. km (40 sq. miles) of unspoiled splen-
dor. Inhabited for 5,000 years and once quite populous—with 1,700 pre-
famine residents—Clare is now home to 150 year-round islanders, plus
perhaps as many sheep. But the island is best known as the haunt of
Grace O’Malley, the pirate queen, who controlled the coastal waters 400
years ago. O’Malley’s modest castle, and the partially restored Cistercian
Abbey where she is buried, are among the island’s few attractions. The
rest is a matter of remote natural beauty, in which Clare abounds. The
sea cliffs on the north side of the island are truly spectacular. Two ferry
services, operating out of Roonagh Harbour, 29km (18 miles) south of
Westport, charge €15 ($18) each way for the 15-minute journey: O’Mal-
ley’s Ferry Service, aboard the Island Princess (& 098/25045); and Clare
Island Ferries, aboard the Pirate Queen (& 098/26307).
Once you arrive on Clare, if you want the grand tour, look for Lud-
wig Timmerman’s 1974 Land Rover. Ludwig offers cordial, informative
tours from June to August. Otherwise, your transport options are
mountain bikes or your own legs.
working mills, which produce the famous Foxford woolen products. Tours run
every 20 minutes and last approximately 45 minutes. A restaurant, a shop, an
exhibition center, an art gallery, a heritage room, and other craft units (includ-
ing a doll-making and -restoration workshop and a jewelry designer) are also
part of the visit.
Off the Foxford-Ballina rd. (N57), 16km (10 miles) south of Ballina, St. Joseph’s Place, Foxford, County Mayo.
& 094/925-6488. Admission €8 ($9.65) adults, €6.50 ($7.85) seniors, students, and children, €20 ($24)
families. May–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm; Nov–Apr Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 2–6pm. Last
tour at 4:45pm.
Granuaile Centre Using an audiovisual display and graphic exhibits, this

center tells the story of one of Ireland’s great female heroes, Granuaile (Grace)
O’Malley (1530–1600). Known as the “pirate queen,” Grace led battles against
the English and ruled the baronies of Burrishoole and Murrisk, around Clew
Bay. Her extraordinary exploits are recounted in Elizabethan state papers. The
center also includes a craft shop and coffee shop.
Louisburgh, County Mayo. & 098/66341. Admission €4 ($4.80) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors and students,
€1.60 ($1.90) children. June to mid-Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm.
Mayo North Heritage Centre If your ancestors came from Mayo, this cen-
ter will help you trace your family tree. The data bank includes indexes to
church registers of all denominations, plus school roll books, leases, and wills.
Even if you have no connections in Mayo, you’ll enjoy the adjacent museum,
with its displays of rural household items, farm machinery, and farm imple-
ments, including the gowl-gob, a spadelike implement exclusive to this locality.
The center also offers a new 5- to 10-day blacksmithing course. The lovely
Enniscoe Gardens adjoin the center; combined tickets to the center and gardens
are available. There is also a tearoom on the premises.
Note: If your ancestors were from the southern part of Ireland, try the South
Mayo Family Research Centre, Town Hall, Neale Road, Ballinrobe, County
Mayo (& 094/954-1214). It’s open Monday to Friday 10am to noon and 2 to
4pm.
On Lough Conn, about 3.2km (2 miles) south of Crossmolina, off R315, Enniscoe, Castlehill, Ballina, County
Mayo. & 096/31809. Fax 096/31885. www.mayoroots.com. Admission to museum €4 ($4.80) adults, €2
($2.40) children, €8 ($9.65) families. Oct–May Mon–Fri 9am–4pm; June–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat–Sun
2–6pm.
National Shrine of Our Lady of Knock For Catholics, and particularly

for Irish Catholics, this is a place of pilgrimage. It’s said that here, in 1879, local
townspeople witnessed an appearance of Mary, the mother of Jesus. Considered
the Lourdes or Fatima of Ireland, Knock came to the world’s attention in 1979,
when Pope John Paul II visited the shrine. Knock’s centerpiece is a huge circu-
lar basilica seating 7,000 people and containing artifacts or furnishings from
every county in Ireland. The grounds also hold a folk museum and a religious
bookshop.
On the N17 Galway rd., Knock, County Mayo. & 094/938-8100. Free admission to shrine; museum €4
($4.80) adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors and children age 5 and over, free for children under 5. Shrine and grounds
year-round daily 8am–6pm or later; museum May–Oct daily 10am–6pm.
Westport House Kids At the edge of town you can visit Westport House,
a late-18th-century residence that’s the home of Lord Altamont, the marquis of
Sligo, who is in residence with his family. The work of Richard Cassels and
James Wyatt, the house is graced with a staircase of ornate white Sicilian mar-
ble, unusual Art Nouveau glass and carvings, family heirlooms, and silver. The
grandeur of the residence is admittedly compromised by the commercial enter-
prises on its grounds, including a small children’s zoo.
Westport, County Mayo. & 098/25430. www.westporthouse.ie. Admission to house and children’s animal
and bird park €16 ($19) adults, €11 ($13) students, €9 ($11) seniors, €6.50 ($7.85) children; to house only,
€8 ($9.65) adults, €5 ($6) seniors and students, €4.50 ($5.40) children. Westport House only: Mar–May Sun
2–5pm; July–Sept daily 11am–5pm. Westport House and children’s zoo: Apr–June Sat–Sun 11am–5pm.

FISHING The waters of the River Moy and loughs Carrowmore and Conn
offer some of the best fishing in Europe and are some of Ireland’s premier
sources for salmon and trout. For general information about fishing in County
Mayo, contact the North Western Regional Fisheries Board, Ardnaree House,
Abbey Street, Ballina (& 096/22788; www.cfb.ie).
To arrange a day’s fishing, contact Cloonamoyne Fishery , Castlehill, near
Crossmolina, Ballina (& 096/31851). Managed by an Irish-born former New
Yorker, Barry Segrave, this professional angling service will advise and equip you
to fish the local waters—for brown trout on loughs Conn and Cullin; for
salmon on loughs Beltra, Furnace, and Feeagh; and for salmon and sea trout on
the rivers Moy and Deel. The fishery rents fully equipped boats and tackle,
teaches fly-casting, and provides transport to and from all fishing. Daily rates
average €30 ($36) for a rowboat, €45 ($54) for a boat with engine, and €75
($90) for a boat with engine and ghillie (guide).
County Mayo is also home to the Pontoon Bridge Fly Fishing School, Pon-
toon, County Mayo (& 094/925-6120; http://pontoon.mayo-ireland.ie/Fly-
Schl/FlySchl.htm). Daily rates average €40 ($48) for a rowboat, €55 ($66) for
a boat with engine, and €100 ($120) for a boat with engine and ghillie. This
Local Hero: Grace O’Malley

Grace O’Malley, the “Pirate Queen,” was born in 1530 in Clare Island.
She was, by all accounts, a larger-than-life heroine, adventurer, pirate,
gambler, mercenary, traitor, chieftain, and noblewoman. Even at a
young age, Grace was an independent woman. When her mother
refused to let her sail with her father, she cut off her hair and dressed
in boys’ clothing. Her father called her “Grainne Mhaol,” or “Bald
Grace,” which later was shortened to Granuaile, a nickname she’d
carry her whole life.
When she was just 16 years old, Grace married Donal O’Flaherty, sec-
ond in line to the O’Flaherty clan chieftain, who ruled all of Connacht.
Her reputation as a pirate began when the city of Galway, one of the
largest trade centers in the British Isles, refused to trade with the
O’Flahertys. Grace used her fleet of fast galleys to waylay slower ves-
sels on their way into Galway Harbour. She then offered safe passage
in return for not pillaging the ships.
Grace O’Malley is fondly remembered for refusing to trade her
lands in return for an English title, a common practice of the day. At
the age of 56, she was captured by the English, who planned to hang
her. But before the execution took place, Grace was released on the
condition that she would stop all piracy. She was stripped of her cattle
and most of her lands and forced into poverty. Still, she defied author-
ity and continued to sail into her 60s. The Irish remember her as a
revered defender of Gaelic life.
school offers a 1-day course in the art of fly-casting, as well as fly tying, tackle
design, and other information necessary for successful game fishing. Fees run
€75 ($90) per person. Courses run daily year-round if there is demand. The
newly expanded Pontoon Bridge Hotel also runs painting and cooking classes.
Permits and state fishing licenses can be obtained at the North Mayo Angling
Advice Centre (Tiernan Bros.), Upper Main Street, Foxford, County Mayo
(& 094/925-6731). It also offers a wide range of services, including boat hire
and ghillies.
For fishing tackle, try Jones Ltd., General Merchants, Main Street, Foxford,
County Mayo (& 094/925-6121), or Walkins Fishing Tackle, Tone Street,
Ballina, County Mayo (& 096/22442).
GOLF County Mayo’s 18-hole golf courses include a par-72 links course at
Belmullet Golf Course, Carne, Belmullet, County Mayo (& 097/82292;
www.belmulletgolfclub.ie), with greens fees of €50 ($60) daily. The par-71
inland course at Castlebar Golf Club, Rocklands, Castlebar, County Mayo
(& 094/902-1649), has greens fees of €25 ($30) weekdays and €32 ($39)
weekends. The par-73 championship course at Westport Golf Club, County
Mayo (& 098/28262; www.golfwestport.com), charges greens fees of €40
($48) weekdays, €50 ($60) weekends. Set on the shores of Clew Bay, the course
winds around the precipitous slopes of Croagh Patrick Mountain. It’s one of
western Ireland’s most challenging and scenic courses.
KAYAKING Courses for adults and children are offered at the Atlantic Adven-
ture Centre, in Lecanvey, just outside of Westport, County Mayo (& 098/
64806). Most of the kayaking is done at Old Head, Bertra, and Carramore. Very
reasonable accommodations rates are available for campers.
WALKING The region to the east of the Mullet peninsula offers a spectacu-
lar array of sheer sea cliffs and craggy islands. The small, secluded beach at Por-
tacloy, 14km (81⁄2 miles) north of Glenamoy on the R314, is a good starting
point for a dramatic walk. On a sunny day, its aquamarine waters and fine-
grained white sand recall the Mediterranean more than the North Atlantic. At
its western edge, there is a concrete quay. From here, head north up the steep
green slopes of the nearest hill. Don’t be too distracted by the fantastic view or
adorable little sheep: The unassuming boggy slopes on which you are walking
end precipitously at an unmarked cliff edge—the walk is not recommended for
children. Exercise caution and resist the urge to try to get a better view of mys-
terious sea caves or to reach the outermost extents of the coast’s promontories.
Instead, use a farmer’s fence as a guide and head west toward the striking profile
of Benwee Head, about 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) away. Return the same way to have a
swim in the chilly, tranquil waters of Portacloy.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Ashford Castle From turrets and towers to drawbridge and battle-
ments, this sprawling castle is indeed a fairy-tale resort. It dates from the 13th
century, when it was first the home of the De Burgo (Burke) family and later the
country residence of the Guinnesses. A hotel since 1939, it has been enlarged and
updated over the years. It drew worldwide media attention in 1984 when Presi-
dent Ronald Reagan stayed here during his visit to Ireland, and in 2001 when
007 himself, Pierce Brosnan, held his wedding here. On the shores of Lough Cor-
rib amid 140 forested, flowering hectares (350 acres), it sits in the heart of the
scenic territory that was the setting for the film classic The Quiet Man.
The interior is rich in baronial furniture, medieval armor, carved oak paneling
and stairways, objets d’art, and masterpiece oil paintings. Guest rooms are deco-
rated with designer fabrics and traditional furnishings, some with canopied or
four-poster beds. Jacket and tie are required for men in the restaurant after 7pm.
Cong, County Mayo. & 800/346-7007 in the U.S. or 092/954-6003. Fax 092/954-6260. www.ashford.ie. 83
units. €215–€995 ($259–$1,199) double. Suites also available. Rates include service charge. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental, French); bar; 9-hole golf course; tennis court; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna; boat-
ing (salmon and trout fishing); concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry service. In room: TV, minibar, hair
EXPENSIVE
Newport House Hotel Finds Everybody gushes in superlatives about
Newport House, perhaps the most magnificent—and magnificently unself-
conscious—country-house hotel in Ireland. Close to the Clew Bay coast, this ivy-
covered Georgian mansion sits at the edge of town along the Newport River,
making it a favorite base for salmon anglers. It was originally part of the estate of
the O’Donnell family, ancient Irish chieftains. There’s fine, ornate plasterwork on
the soaring ceilings, and a dramatic, sky-lit dome crowns the cascading central
staircase. The public areas make you feel like you have a bit part in
lavish period film—all antique furnishings, oil paintings, and cases of fishing tro-
phies. The guest rooms are spread among the main house and two smaller court-
yard buildings. They’re quite spacious and elegant, with Georgian sash windows,
high ceilings, antique furnishings, and original paintings and prints. Then there’s
the restaurant, a destination in itself and a place of pilgrimage for any food lover.
If you want to experience the Irish country house at its best, you really won’t find
anything better than the Newport House.
Newport, County Mayo. & 800/223-6510 in the U.S. or 098/41222. Fax 098/41613. www.newporthouse.ie.
18 units. €230–€320 ($277–$386) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Oct to mid-
Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; drawing room; private salmon and sea-trout fishing. In room:
TV, hair dryer.
M O D E R AT E
Breaffy House If you’ve always wanted to stay in one of those trumpets-
blaring, grand castle hotels but didn’t think you could afford it, here’s your
chance. A long paved driveway leads to this sprawling baronial mansion, pic-
turesquely ensconced amid 40 hectares (100 acres) of gardens and woodlands.
The public areas are furnished with traditional and period pieces. Guest rooms
aren’t as luxurious as those in many other (more expensive) castle hotels, and
they vary in size and shape. Yet each is attractive and comfortable, if a bit func-
tional. Breaffy House is part of the Best Western chain.
Claremorris Rd., Castlebar, County Mayo. & 800/528-1234 in the U.S. or 094/902-2033. Fax 094/902-2276.
www.bestwestern.com. 120 units. €110–€160 ($133–$193) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities:
Restaurant (Continental); bar; spa; babysitting; drawing room; leisure center. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker,
hair dryer, garment press.
Enniscoe House This is a terrific place for unwinding and escaping the
real world. Overlooking Lough Conn and surrounded by a wooded estate with
more than 4.8km (3 miles) of nature walks, this two-story Georgian country inn
has been described as “the last great house of North Mayo.” It is owned and run
by Susan Kellett, a descendant of the original family that settled on the lands in
the 1660s. Enniscoe’s interior is truly magnificent, with delicate plasterwork,
lovely fireplaces, and a fabulous staircase. The place abounds with family por-
traits, antique furniture, early drawings, and pictures of the house and sur-
rounding area. Guest rooms are individually furnished; those at the front of the
house are particularly impressive, with huge hand-carved armoires and canopied
or four-poster beds with firm mattresses. All rooms have views of parkland or
the lake. Meals here feature fish from local rivers, produce from the house’s farm,
and vegetables and herbs from the adjacent garden. Enniscoe also has its own
fishery (see Cloonamoyne Fishery under “Fishing” in “Sports & Outdoor Pur-
suits,” above). Self-catering apartments are also available.
3.2km (2 miles) south of Crossmolina, off R315, next to the North Mayo Heritage Centre, Castlehill, near
Crossmolina, Ballina, County Mayo. & 800/223-6510 in the U.S. or 096/31112. Fax 096/31773. www.
enniscoe.com. 6 units. €160–€196 ($193–$236) double. Dinner from €38 ($46). Rates include full break-
fast. AE, MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms; drawing room. In room: TV.
Mount Falcon Castle If you love fishing, this award-winning, ivy-clad

country house is nirvana—complete with dogs, Wellington boots, and many a
tale about the one that got away. A stay here entitles you to salmon and trout
fishing on Lough Conn and to fishing in a salmon preserve on the River Moy.

Built in 1876 by the same man who did much of the exterior work at Ashford
Castle in Cong (see above), this handsome, gabled, Victorian-style manor is set
in a 40-hectare (100-acre) wooded estate 6.5km (4 miles) south of Ballina. The
decor in both the public areas and the guest rooms is an eclectic blend of com-
fort pieces—fluffy throw pillows, carved chests, and gilded mirrors. The
Aldridge family enthusiastically caters to anglers’ needs and will prepare and
serve you your day’s catch for dinner.
Foxford rd. (N57), Ballina, County Mayo. & 800/223-6510 in the U.S. or 096/71172. Fax 096/71517. 9 units.
€100–€160 ($120–$193) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €32 ($39). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed
Feb–Mar and Christmas week. Amenities: Tennis court; private salmon and trout fishing; drawing room.
The Olde Railway Hotel William Thackeray’s description of this hotel in

1834—“one of the prettiest, comfortablest inns in Ireland”—remains true. The
Olde Railway Hotel, built in 1780 by Lord Sligo to accommodate his “overflow”
houseguests, has been tastefully restored by the Rosenkranz family. Its bright yel-
low facade is warm and welcoming; inside, it exudes charm and a touch of ele-
gance. No two rooms are alike; each has been given a distinctive character.
Twenty-two rooms face the tree-lined Carrowbeg River. The superior rooms are
more spacious and include a sitting area with sofa. Bicycles are also available for
guests who wish to take a pedal through town.
The Mall, Westport, County Mayo. & 098/25166. Fax 098/25090. www.anu.ie/railwayhotel. 27 units.
€120–€150 ($145–$181) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In
room: TV.
INEXPENSIVE
Drom Caoin Kids The view of Blacksod Bay is terrific from Mairin
Maguire-Murphy’s comfortable home, a short walk from the center of
Belmullet. Two of the guest rooms have recently been renovated into self-
catering apartments that can be rented by the night or by the week, with or
without breakfast. It’s a great concept—you can actually settle in, cook some
of your own meals, and enjoy the extra space of a suite for a little more money
than an average B&B room. The ground-floor apartment faces a parking lot
at the back of the house—not a great view, but there’s plenty of room for a
family with a pullout couch in the sitting room, a bedroom with a double
bed, and a loft-nook, which is just the right size for a small child. The other
apartment is on the upper floor of the house, and is very comfortable for a
couple—the kitchen adjoins a small dining room/sitting room with a sloping
ceiling and a skylight view of the bay. It’s not spacious, but it is very com-
fortable. The other two bedrooms are small, with compact bathrooms. Break-
fast is something to look forward to here—omelets, fresh fish, and toasted
cheese are offered periodically as alternatives to the standard fry, and the fresh
scones are delicious.
Belmullet, County Mayo. &/fax 097/81195. 4 units (2 with shower only, no tub). €60 ($75) double; €290
($349) apt by the week (without breakfast). 33% reduction for children. MC, V. In room: TV.
Rosturk Woods This lovely, cheerfully decorated house is well-located

on the road between Newport and Achill Island on Clew Bay. You won’t realize
how beautifully set it is––or how close it is to the sea––until you reach the end
of the long driveway. The place is wonderfully run by Louisa Stoney, who also
happens to be a terrific cook and a great insider with many recommendations
about what you should do and see in the area. Rooms are spacious, very pretty,
and comfortable, with big king-size beds and power showers in the bathrooms.
There are also two very attractive self-catering cottages (two-bedroom and four-
bedroom) that can be rented for €625 to €950 ($753–$1,145) per week.
Mulranny, Westport, County Mayo. &/fax 098/36264. 3 units. €90 ($108) double. 3-course dinner €45
($54). No credit cards. Closed Dec–Feb. In room: Tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
The Quay Cottage SEAFOOD This place is known for the best seafood
in Westport. In an old stone building overlooking the harbor, Quay Cottage is
done up from top to bottom with nautical bric-a-brac. The menu presents fresh,
beautifully prepared seafood, such as lemon sole beurre blanc or wild local
salmon, with an array of daily specials that often includes steaks. You can take a
waterside stroll after your meal.
The Quay, Westport, County Mayo. & 098/26412. Reservations recommended. Main courses €18–€27
($22–$33). AE, MC, V. May–Oct daily 6–10pm; Nov–Apr Tues–Sat 6–10pm. Closed Christmas.
M O D E R AT E
Echoes Finds CONTINENTAL Look out for the lilac-colored, two-story
building in the middle of Main Street in Cong, for it’s one of the most likeable
eateries in western Ireland. Tom Ryan, Jr., gets his meats from his dad’s butcher
shop, right next door, and the quality of the produce is exceptional. He does all
the classics—lamb with rosemary sauce, steak with peppercorns—only better
than almost everybody else, and always with very punchy, distinct flavors. Tom’s
fish dishes are likewise fresh and flavorful, be it dreamy scallops with bacon in
garlic butter or his prawn scampi with tomato-and-basil sauce. Starters and
desserts are also impressive (the homemade ice creams have attained near-legend
status in these parts), and it’s hard to find a downside to this happy, fun place.
Main St., Cong, County Mayo. & 094/954-6059. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
€13–€19 ($16–$23). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sun 6:30–10pm.
The Lemon Peel MODERN IRISH This is arguably Westport’s best

table, thanks to great food from chef/owner Robbie McMenamin, who just may
arrive tableside to tell you about the specials himself. The dress code is smart
casual, and the bistro surroundings are stylish and buzzy. McMenamin uses only
local produce to concoct tasty “modern Irish” fare (code for traditional Irish
dishes updated with the chef ’s personal flair). His pan-fried loin of pork in
black-bean sauce comes on a bed of Chinese noodles, and he has clearly got a
way with fish—Cajun crusted salmon, or cod served on crab mash (mixed in
with spuds) with a sweet basil sauce. Everything comes with a medley of fresh
vegetables on the side, and the cheese sauce on the broccoli is a state secret. Por-
tions are generous, so you may not be inclined for dessert.
The Octagon, Westport, County Mayo. & 098/26929. www.lemonpeel.ie. Reservations required on week-
ends. Early-bird menu 5–7pm €18 ($22). Main courses €13–€19 ($16–$23). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 5–11pm.
INEXPENSIVE
La Bella Vita ITALIAN Its name means “The Beautiful Life” and this
relaxed feel-good Italian wine-bar-cum-restaurant delivers good pasta, risotto,
veal, poultry, and game in an exceptionally cozy atmosphere, thanks to excep-
tionally friendly service, open fires, and candlelight. Start with the antipasti or
bruschetta, and leave room for one of the wonderful homemade desserts. There’s
a great wine list here, so enjoy. You wind up feeling fed and feted.
High St.,Westport, County Mayo. & 098/29771. Main courses €7–€12 ($8.45–$14). MC,V.Tues–Sun 6–10pm.
The Old Mill CAFE/TEAROOM On the grounds of the historic Foxford

Woollen Mills (see the “Exploring the County” section, earlier in this chapter),
this is a nice place to grab a bite in a setting that’s bright and airy. On the menu:
soups, salads, sandwiches, and cold meat plates, as well as quiche, lasagna, sausage
rolls, scones, muffins, and desserts. There are also daily hot meal specials.
Foxford Woollen Mills, Foxford, County Mayo. & 094/56756. All items €3–€10 ($3.60–$12). MC, V.
Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm; Sun noon–5:30pm.
2 Sligo & Yeats Country

Sligo Town is 219km (136 miles) NE of Shannon Airport, 217km (135 miles) NW of Dublin, 76km (47 miles)
NE of Knock, 60km (37 miles) NE of Ballina, 140km (87 miles) NE of Galway, 118km (73 miles) N of Athlone,
and 337km (209 miles) N of Cork
Sligo Town (pop. 18,000) is northwest Ireland’s most important town, a thriv-
ing merchants’ hub that sits mostly on the south side of the River Garavogue
and is surrounded on three sides by mountains, the most famous of which are
Ben Bulben to the north and Knocknarea to the south. More importantly, it’s at
the epicenter of Yeats Country. Though born in Dublin, W. B. Yeats spent so
much time in County Sligo that it became a part of him, and he a part of it.
Sligo Town is in the midst of a major renaissance. Roughly half to two-thirds
of the town center has been refurbished in the past 9 years. From a visitor’s per-
spective, the focus of this radical rejuvenation has been Sligo’s new “Left Bank,”
where cafes and restaurants spill onto the waterfront promenade whenever
weather permits.
When you plan your itinerary, give yourself plenty of time to explore the sur-
rounding countryside. As you’ll quickly discover in Yeats Country, every hill, rill,
cottage, vale, and lake seems to bear a plaque indicating its relation to the poet
or his works.
SLIGO TOWN ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Aer Arann (& 01/814-5240; www.aerarann.ie) operates
daily flights into Sligo Airport, Strandhill, County Sligo (& 071/916-8280;
www.sligoairport.com), 8km (5 miles) southwest of Sligo Town. The bus to
Sligo town from the airport will cost you under €3 ($3.60), while you can
expect a taxi to cost around €14 ($17).
Irish Rail, with its station on Lord Edward Street (& 071/916-9888;
www.irishrail.ie), operates daily service into Sligo from Dublin and other points.
Bus Eireann, also pulling into Lord Edward Street (& 071/916-0066;
www.buseireann.ie), operates daily bus service to Sligo from Dublin, Galway,
and other points, including Derry in Northern Ireland.
Four major roads lead to Sligo: N4 from Dublin and the east, N17 from Gal-
way and the south, N15 from Donegal to the north, and N16 from County Fer-
managh in Northern Ireland.
VISITOR INFORMATION For information about Sligo and the surround-
ing area, contact the North West Regional Tourism Office, Aras Reddan, Tem-
ple Street, Sligo (& 071/916-1201; www.northwestireland.travel.ie). It’s open
year-round, weekdays 9am to 5pm, with weekend and extended hours April to
August. The most comprehensive local Internet source for Sligo can be found at
www.sligotourism.ie.
TOWN LAYOUT Edged by Sligo Bay to the west, Sligo Town sits beside the
Garavogue River. Most of the city’s commercial district lies on the south bank
DO
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1 Lake Kiltyclogher Macnean
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4
Manorhamilton Glenfarne Blacklion
Easkey Strandhill
5
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6 Gill
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Carrowkeel Cemetery 9 Dromore N59
7 Dromahair
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Glencar Lake & Ballintogher
Enniscrone Coolaney
Waterfall 2 S L I G O Collooney Drumkeeran
CAVAN
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Lough Allen
Lissadell House 1 N17
Lough
Ballymote N4 Geevagh
Arrow Slieve Anieran
Lough Gill Cruises 6 Cloonacool
Castlebaldwin Ballinamore
Lough Gill Drive 7 9
Keshcarrigan
Parke's Castle 4 Lough Talt Tubbercurry Drumshanbo Fenagh
Curlew Mountains Lough Key R209 Carrigallen
Yeats' Grave 3 Aclare Ballinafad
Leitrim R201
L E I T R I M
Gorteen
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Charlestown Lough Drumsna
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of the river. O’Connell Street is the main north-south artery of the downtown
district. The main east-west thoroughfare is Stephen Street, which becomes
Wine Street and then Lord Edward Street. The Tourist Office is in the south-
west corner of the town on Temple Street, 2 blocks south of O’Connell Street.
Three bridges span the river; the Douglas Hyde Bridge, named for Ireland’s
first president, is the main link between the two sides.
GETTING AROUND There is no public transport in the town of Sligo.
During July and August, Bus Eireann (& 071/916-0066) runs from Sligo
Town to Strandhill and Rosses Point.
Taxis line up at the taxi rank on Quay Street. If you prefer to call for a taxi,
try A Cabs (& 071/914-5777), ACE Cabs (& 071/914-4444), Greenline
Hackney Cabs (& 071/916-9000), or Sligo Cabs (& 071/917-1888).
You’ll need a car to see the sights outside Sligo Town. If you need to hire a
vehicle locally, contact Avis, Sligo Airport (& 1890/405060), or Hertz, Wine
Street, Sligo (& 071/914-4068).
The best way to see Sligo Town itself is on foot. Follow the signposted route
of the Tourist Trail. The walk takes approximately 90 minutes. From mid-June
to September, the Tourist Office, Temple Street, Sligo (& 071/916-1201),
offers guided tours; contact the office for details and reservations.
FAST FACTS In an emergency, dial & 999. St. John’s Hospital is at Ballyti-
van, Sligo (& 071/914-2606), or you can try Sligo County Hospital, The Mall
(& 071/914-2620). The local Garda Station is on Pearse Road (& 071/
914-2031).
Need to check your e-mail? Three minutes’ walk from the center of Sligo
Town, you’ll find the Galaxy Cyber Cafe, Millbrook Riverside (& 071/
914-0441; www.cisl.ie). There are also Internet-accessible PCs at the County
Sligo Library, on Stephen Street (& 071/914-2212), which is open Tuesday to
Friday 10am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm.
The Sligo General Post Office, Wine Street (& 071/914-2646), is open
Monday through Saturday 9am to 5:30pm.
SEEING THE SIGHTS IN SLIGO TOWN
Model Arts Centre Although this is a relatively new development in Sligo
(it opened in 1991), it carries on the Yeatsean literary and artistic traditions.
Housed in an 1850 Romanesque-style stone building that was originally a
school, it offers nine rooms for touring shows and local exhibits by artists, sculp-
tors, writers, and musicians. In the summer there are often poetry readings and
arts lectures.
The Mall, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-1405. Free admission. Readings and lectures free–€7 ($8.45),
depending on artist. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm; evening events 8pm.
Sligo Abbey Founded as a Dominican house in 1252 by Maurice

Fitzgerald, earl of Kildare, Sligo Abbey was destroyed by fire in 1414 and rebuilt
2 years later. It flourished in medieval times and was the burial place of the kings
and princes of Sligo. After many raids and sackings, the abbey was closed in
1641. Much restoration work has been done in recent years, and the cloisters are
considered outstanding examples of stone carving; the 15th-century altar is one
of the few intact medieval altars in Ireland.
Abbey St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-6406. Admission €2 ($2.40) adults, €1.25 ($1.50) seniors, €1
($1.20) students and children, €5 ($6) families. No credit cards. Daily 10am–6:30pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
Sligo Town
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of the mid–19th century, this museum exhibits material of national and local
interest dating to pre-Christian times. One section, devoted to the Yeats family,
includes a display of William Butler Yeats’s complete works in first editions,
poems on broadsheets, letters, and his Nobel Prize for literature (1923). This
same section contains the Niland Gallery, a collection of oils, watercolors, and
drawings by Jack B. Yeats (W. B. Yeats’s brother) and John B. Yeats (William and
Jack’s father). There is also a permanent collection of 20th-century Irish art,
including works by Paul Henry and Evie Hone.
Stephen St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-2212. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–noon and 2–4:50pm.
Closed Oct–May.
Yeats Memorial Building In a 19th-century redbrick Victorian building,

this memorial contains an extensive library with items of special interest to Yeats
scholars. The building is also headquarters of the Yeats International Summer
School and the Sligo Art Gallery, which exhibits works by local, national, and
international artists. The latest addition to the memorial is a full cafe.
Douglas Hyde Bridge, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-2693. www.yeats-sligo.com. Free admission. Year-
round Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS & CRUISES

JH Transport This fine family-operated company offers narrated minibus
tours of the Sligo area, departing daily from the Sligo Tourist Office. Depend-
ing on passengers’ interest, the tour follows either the Lough Gill Drive or sights
associated with W. B. Yeats––Yeats’s grave, Lissadell House (though this is for
sale at press time), Glencar Lake and Waterfall, and Carrowmore (see below).
Phone ahead to confirm schedules and booking. With the Lough Gill tour, you
have the option of returning to Sligo on a water bus via Innisfree Island.
57 Mountain Close, Carton View, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-2747 or 086/193-5045 (mobile). Bus tours
€14 ($17) adults, €10 ($12) children 6–16. Water bus return option €4.50 ($5.40) extra.
Lough Gill Cruises On this tour, you cruise on Lough Gill and the Gar-
avogue River aboard the 72-passenger Wild Rose water bus while listening to the
poetry of Yeats. Trips to the Lake Isle of Innisfree are also scheduled. An onboard
bar serves refreshments.
Blue Lagoon, Riverside, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/916-4266. Lough Gill cruise €10 ($12) adults, €5 ($6)
children over 10; Innisfree cruise €12 ($14) adults, €6 ($7.50) children over 10. June–Sept Lough Gill cruise
daily 2:30 and 4:30pm; Innisfree tour daily 12:30, 3:30, and 6:30pm. Apr–May and Oct (Sun only) cruise and
tour schedule subject to demand; call ahead.
SHOPPING IN SLIGO TOWN

Most Sligo shops are open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, and some may
have extended hours during July and August.
The Cat & the Moon This shop offers uniquely designed crafts from
throughout Ireland, ranging from beeswax candles and baskets to modern art,
metal and ceramic work, wood turning, hand weaving, Celtic jewelry, and fur-
niture. An expanded gallery displays a large variety of paintings, limited-edition
prints, and occasionally sculpture. 4 Castle St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-3686.
Kates Kitchen/Hopper & Pettit Kates has an outstanding delicatessen section,
with gourmet meats, cheeses, salads, pâtés, and breads baked on the premises, all
ideal makings for a picnic by Lough Gill. Don’t miss the handmade Irish chocolates
and preserves. Hopper & Pettit stocks potpourri, soaps, and natural oils as well as
Crabtree & Evelyn products. 24 Market St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-3022.
M. Quirke Michael Quirke started out as a butcher, but a few years ago he
traded his cleaver for woodcarving tools and transformed his butcher shop into
a craft studio. Step inside and watch as he transforms chunks of native timbers
into Ireland’s heroes of mythology, from Sligo’s Queen Maeve to Cu Chulainn,
Oisin, and other folklore characters. He also carves chess sets and other Irish-
themed wood items. The price of an individual carving averages €85 ($102).
Wine St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-2624.
Music Room Just off O’Connell Street, this small cottagelike store draws you
to it with the sounds of Irish music. This is a great spot to purchase Irish musi-
cal instruments and accessories. A sister shop, the Record Room, a half a block
away on Grattan Street (& 071/914-3748), offers cassettes, CDs, videos, and
records. Grattan St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-4765.
S L I G O & Y E AT S C O U N T RY 439
Sligo Craft Pottery This shop features the work of one of Ireland’s foremost
ceramic artists, Michael Kennedy, who produces pottery and porcelain with lay-
ers of textured markings and drawings that form a maze of intricate patterns. He
then applies glazes that reflect the strong tones and shades of the Irish country-
side. The result is one-of-a-kind vases, jars, dishes, figurines, buttons, jewelry,
and other pieces. Market Yard, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-2586.
Sligo Crystal & Giftware Ltd. This workshop, in new premises in Sligo
Town, is noted for its personalized engraving of such items as family crests on
mirrors or glassware. The craftspeople also produce hand-cut crystal candlesticks,
glasses, and curio items like crystal bells and scent bottles. Crystal pieces can be
cut to a pattern of your creation or choice. On weekdays, you’ll see the crafts-
people at work. 2 Hyde Bridge House, Hyde Bridge, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-3440.
Wehrly Bros. Ltd Established in 1875, this is one of Sligo’s oldest shops,
noted for a fine selection of jewelry and watches, as well as cold-cast bronze
sculptures of Irish figures, silverware, Claddagh rings, Waterford crystal, Belleek
china, and Galway crystal. 3 O’Connell St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-2252.
EXPLORING THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE
Sligo’s great antiquity can be counted in the seemingly numberless grave
mounds, standing stones, ring circles, and dolmens still marking its starkly stun-
ning landscape. The county contains the greatest concentration of megalithic
sites in all of Ireland.
A fitting place to begin exploring ancient Sligo is at Carrowmore (see listing
below), a vast Neolithic cemetery that once contained perhaps as many as 200
passage tombs, some of which predate Newgrange by 500 years. From Carrow-
more, the Neolithic mountaintop cemetery of Carrowkeel is visible in the dis-
tant south. Less than an hour’s drive away (ask for detailed directions at the
Carrowmore Visitors Centre), it offers an experience beyond any account: After
a breathtaking ascent on foot, you’ll find yourself alone with the past. The
tombs, facing Carrowmore below and aligned with the summer solstice, are
rarely visited.
To the west is Knocknarea (323m/1,078 ft.), on whose summit sits a gigan-
tic unexcavated cairn (grave mound). It’s known as Miscaun Meadhbh (Maeve’s
Mound), even though it predates Maeve—an early Celtic warrior queen who
plays a central role in the Taín Bó Cuilnge, the Celtic epic—by millennia. Leg-
end has it that she’s buried standing, in full battle gear, spear in hand, facing her
Ulster enemies even in death. This extraordinary tomb is 189m (630 ft.) around
at its base, 24m (80 ft.) high, 30m (100 ft.) in diameter, and visible for miles.
At the foot of Knocknarea is Strandhill, 8km (5 miles) from Sligo Town. This
delightful resort area stretches into Sligo Bay, with a sand-duned beach and a
patch of land nearby called Coney Island, which is usually credited with lend-
ing its name to the New York beach amusement area. Across the bay, about
6.5km (4 miles) north of Sligo Town, is another beach resort, Rosses Point.
Northwest of Sligo Bay, 6.5km (4 miles) offshore, lies the uninhabited island
of Inishmurray , which contains the haunting ruins of one of Ireland’s earliest
monastic settlements. Founded in the 6th century and destroyed by the Vikings
in 807, the monastery of St. Molaise contains in its circular walls the remains of
several churches, beehive cells, altars, and an assemblage of “cursing stones” once
used to bring ruin on those who presumably deserved it. For transportation
to the island, call Joe McGowan (& 071/916-6267) or Brendan Merrifield

(& 071/914-1874).
Most of Sligo’s attractions are associated in some way with the poet William
Butler Yeats, as you’ll note below.
Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery Here, at the dead center of the
Coolera Peninsula, sits the giant’s tomb, a massive passage grave that once had a
stone circle of its own. Circling it, and in nearly every instance facing it, were as
many as 100 to 200 passage graves, each circled in stone. Tomb 52A, excavated
in August 1998, is estimated to be 7,400 years old, making it the earliest known
piece of freestanding stone architecture in the world. Circles within circles
within circles describe a stone-and-spirit world of the dead whose power touches
every visitor who stops to see and consider it—it’s one of the great sacred land-
scapes of the ancient world. The cemetery’s interpretive center offers informative
exhibits and tours.
Carrowmore Visitors Centre (signposted on N4 and N15), County Sligo. & 071/916-1534. Admission €2
($2.40) adults, €1.50 ($1.80) seniors, €1 ($1.20) students and children, €5.50 ($6.60) families. No credit
cards. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm. Both visitor center and site closed Oct–Apr.
Glencar Lake This Yeats Country attraction is just over the border in
County Leitrim. Lovely Glencar Lake stretches east for 3.2km (2 miles) along a
verdant valley, highlighted by two waterfalls, one of which rushes downward for
15m (50 ft.). Yeats’s “The Stolen Child” speaks wondrously of this lake.
Off N16, Glencar, County Leitrim.
Lissadell House On the shores of Sligo Bay, this large neoclassical build-
ing was another of Yeats’s favorite haunts. Dating from 1830, it has long been
the home of the Gore-Booth family, including Yeats’s friends Eva Gore-Booth, a
fellow poet, and her sister Constance, who became the Countess Markievicz
after marrying a Polish count. She took part in the 1916 Irish Rising and was
the first woman elected to the British House of Commons and the first woman
cabinet member in the Irish Dáil. The house is full of such family memorabilia
as the travel diaries of Sir Robert Gore-Booth, who mortgaged the estate to help
the poor during the famine. At the core of the house is a dramatic two-story hall-
way lined with Doric columns leading to a double staircase of Kilkenny marble.
Note: This house was sold in 2003 and it is still closed to the public as of press
time; future accessibility and fees are still unknown.
Off N15, 13km (8 miles) north of Sligo, Drumcliffe, County Sligo.
The Lough Gill Drive This 42km (26-mile) drive-yourself tour

around Lough Gill is well signposted. Head 1.6km (1 mile) south of town and
follow the signs for Lough Gill, the beautiful lake that figured so prominently
in Yeats’s writings. Within 3.2km (2 miles) you’ll be on the lower edge of the
shoreline. Among the sites are Dooney Rock, with its own nature trail and lake-
side walk (inspiration for the poem “Fiddler of Dooney”); the Lake Isle of Inn-
isfree, made famous in Yeats’s poetry and in song; and the Hazelwood
Sculpture Trail, a unique forest walk along the shores of Lough Gill, with 13
wood sculptures.
The storied Innisfree is only one of 22 islands in Lough Gill. You can drive
the whole lakeside circuit in less than an hour, or you can stop at the east end
and visit Dromahair , a delightful village on the River Bonet, in County
Leitrim. The road along Lough Gill’s upper shore brings you back to the north-
ern end of Sligo Town. Continue north on the main road (N15), and you’ll see
the graceful profile of Ben Bulben (519m/1,730 ft.), one of the Dartry Moun-
tains, rising to the right.
County Sligo and County Leitrim.
Parke’s Castle On the north side of the Lough Gill Drive, on the
County Leitrim side of the border, Parke’s Castle stands out as a lone outpost
amid the natural tableau of lake view and woodland scenery. Named after an
English family that gained possession of it during the 1620 plantation of Leitrim
(when land was confiscated from the Irish and given to favored English fami-
lies), this castle was originally the stronghold of the O’Rourke clan, rulers of the
kingdom of Breffni. Beautifully restored using Irish oak and traditional crafts-
manship, it exemplifies the 17th-century, fortified manor house. In the visitor
center, informative exhibits and a splendid audiovisual show illustrate the his-
tory of the castle and introduce visitors to the rich, diverse sites of interest in the
surrounding area. This is an ideal place from which to launch your own local
explorations. The tearoom offers fresh and exceptionally enticing pastries.
Lough Gill Dr., County Leitrim. & 071/916-4149. Admission €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors,
€1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €7 ($8.45) families. St. Patrick’s weekend 10am–5pm; Apr–May
Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; June–Sept daily 9:30am–6:30pm; Oct daily 10am–5pm.
Yeats’s Grave Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of Sligo Town is Drum-

cliffe, site of the Church of Ireland cemetery where W. B. Yeats is buried. It’s well
signposted, so you can easily find the poet’s grave with the simple headstone
bearing the dramatic epitaph he composed: “Cast a cold eye on life, on death;
Horseman, pass by.” This cemetery also contains the ruins of an early Christian
monastery founded by St. Columba in A.D. 745.
Drumcliffe Churchyard, Drumcliffe (off N15), County Sligo.

BEACHES For walking, jogging, or swimming, there are safe sandy beaches
with promenades at Strandhill, Rosses Point, and Enniscrone on the Sligo Bay
coast.
BICYCLING With its lakes and woodlands, Yeats Country is particularly
good biking territory. To rent a bike, contact Gary’s Cycles Shop, Quay Street,
Sligo (& 071/914-5418).
FISHING For fishing gear and tackle, see Barton Smith, Hyde Bridge, Sligo
(& 071/914-6111). For boat rental, see Kingfisher Bates, Pier Road, Ennis-
crone (& 096/36733).
GOLF With its seascapes, mountain valleys, and lakesides, County Sligo is
known for challenging golf courses. Leading the list is County Sligo Golf
Club , Rosses Point Road, Rosses Point (& 071/917-7134; www.county
sligogolfclub.ie), overlooking Sligo Bay under the shadow of Ben Bulben moun-
tain. It’s an 18-hole, par-71 championship seaside links famed for its wild, nat-
ural terrain and constant winds. Greens fees are €65 ($78) weekdays, €80 ($96)
weekends.
Eight kilometers (5 miles) west of Sligo Town is Strandhill Golf Club,
Strandhill (& 071/916-8188; www.strandhillgc.com), a seaside par-69 course
In the southwestern corner of the county, about 40km (25 miles) from Sligo
Town and overlooking Sligo Bay, the Enniscrone Golf Club, Enniscrone
(& 096/36297; www.enniscronegolf.com), is a seaside par-72 course. Greens
fees are €50 ($60) weekdays, €63 ($76) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING An hour’s or a day’s riding on the beach, in the

countryside, or over mountain trails can be arranged at Sligo Riding Centre,
Carrowmore (& 071/916-1353), or at Woodlands Equestrian Centre,
Loughill, Lavagh, Tubbercurry, County Sligo (& 071/918-4207). Rates average
€18 ($22) per hour.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE/EXPENSIVE
Cromleach Lodge Thirty-two kilometers (20 miles) south of Sligo
Town, this lovely, modern sprawling hotel, nestled in the quiet hills above Lough
Arrow, is run by Moira and Christy Tighe. Though not a period house, it’s dec-
orated to feel like one. Views from the restaurant, lounges, and most guest
rooms deliver a stunning panorama of lake land and mountain scenery. Guest
rooms are extralarge by Irish standards and feature sitting areas, oversize ortho-
pedic beds, designer fabrics, and original oil paintings. Each room is named after
a different part of the Sligo countryside (from Ben Bulben and Knocknarea to
Moytura and Carrowkeel) and is decorated with colors reflecting its namesake.
Half the rooms are nonsmoking, and there are separate smoking and nonsmok-
ing lounges. The place is beautiful, the setting divine, but the best reason of all
to come is for the award-winning restaurant and Moira’s fabulous cooking (see
“Where to Dine,” below).
Ballindoon, Castlebaldwin, County Sligo. & 071/916-5155. Fax 071/916-5455. www.cromleach.com.
10 units. €240–€376 ($289–$453) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov–Jan.
Amenities: Restaurant (modern Continental); 2 lounges; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker,
minibar, safe.
EXPENSIVE
Markree Castle Finds If you are hoping to spend at least a night in an
Irish castle, this one—four stories high, with a forbidding entrance, a monu-
mental stone staircase, and a sea of turrets—packs all the drama you could wish
for. This is one of the county’s oldest inhabited castles, and the current owner,
Charles Cooper, is the 10th generation of his family to live at Markree. Even the
approach to the castle is impressive—a 1.6km-long (1-mile) driveway, along pas-
turelands grazed by sheep and horses and past lovely gardens that stretch down
to the Unsin River. The interior is equally regal, with a hand-carved oak stair-
case, ornate plasterwork, and a stained-glass window that traces the Cooper fam-
ily tree back to the time of King John of England. The guest rooms, restored and
equipped with modern facilities, have lovely views of the gardens, and the
restaurant, formerly known as Knockmuldowney (see “Where to Dine,” below),
draws customers from far and wide. If you like horseback riding, there’s an excel-
lent stable attached to the castle that can organize rides through County Sligo
(from an afternoon to a week).
Collooney (13 km/8 miles south of Sligo Town), County Sligo. & 800/223-6510 or 800/44-UTELL in the U.S.
or 071/916-7800. Fax 071/916-7840. www.markreecastle.ie. 30 units. €190–€213 ($229–$257) double.
Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed several days at Christmas. Amenities: Restaurant (Continen-
tal); horseback riding; salmon fishing. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Impressions
Every St. Patrick’s Day every Irishman goes out to find another Irishman
to make a speech to.
—Shane Leslie, American Wonderland, 1936
Yeats Country Hotel Golf and Leisure Club Located between an 18-
hole golf course and Rosses Point, this hilltop property has great views of Ben
Bulben and the sandy beaches of Sligo Bay. Slightly reminiscent of the Edwar-
dian period, the public rooms are elegant while guest rooms are blandly tradi-
tional in dark woods and floral bedspreads. The Sligo Park Hotel (see below)
offers better value for a similar standard of accommodations, but this place has
a more spectacular location.
Rosses Point Rd. (8km/5 miles northwest of Sligo Town), Rosses Point, County Sligo. & 800/44-UTELL in the
U.S. or 071/917-7211. Fax 071/917-7203. 79 units. €150–€200 ($181–$240) double. Rates include service
charge and full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Jan. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor
swimming pool; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; babysitting. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
M O D E R AT E
Sligo Park Hotel Value With a glass-fronted facade and sky-lit atrium
lobby, this is Sligo’s most contemporary hotel. It’s so popular that it just added
30 rooms last year. It’s set back from the road on 2.8 hectares (7 acres) of park-
land, and surrounded by lovely gardens, with distant views of Ben Bulben to the
north. The interior is like that of a zillion other hotels—modern and attractive
but completely lacking in distinction. The decor in the guest rooms is also
generic but inoffensive, with light woods, pastel-toned floral fabrics, quilted
headboards, orthopedic beds, and framed scenes of the Sligo area. Still, it’s hard
to beat this price if you’re looking for a place with a leisure center.
Pearse Rd. (just over 1.6km/1 mile south of Sligo on the Dublin rd./N4), Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/
916-0291. Fax 071/916-9556. www.leehotels.ie. 140 units. €130–€170 ($157–$205) double. Rates include
service charge and full breakfast. DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, cafe); bar; indoor
swimming pool; tennis court; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/
coffeemaker, hair dryer, radio.
Temple House This vast Georgian mansion is beautifully situated in

400 hectares (1,000 acres) of woods and parkland, overlooking a lake and the
ruins of a Knights Templar castle, for which the place is named. The house has
seen better days and is a bit frayed at the edges, but impresses with the sheer
magnitude of its spaces and the antiquity of its eclectic furnishings. The grand,
sweeping staircase in the foyer is magnificent. The Percevals have lived here since
1665, and Sandy and Deb Perceval run the place with a sense of casual elegance
and affable unpretentiousness. The two double rooms in the front of the house
are particularly stately and have canopied beds; book them well in advance. The
walled garden is a short walk from the house and supplies vegetables for the
excellent evening meals.
Two caveats: The atmosphere is more intimate than you might want, much
like a house party; guests meet for drinks in the drawing room and dine together
at a communal table. Also, Sandy has an acute chemical sensitivity and asks
guests to avoid the use of cosmetic products in the house, such as perfume, after-
shave, scented lotions, or hair spray.
Ballymote, County Sligo. & 071/918-3329. Fax 071/918-3808. www.templehouse.ie. 5 units. €130 ($157)
double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €32 ($39). AE, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Dec–Easter. Ameni-
ties: Nonsmoking rooms.
INEXPENSIVE
Dunfore Farmhouse Ita Leyden, winner of two recent tourism awards, is
an outgoing and energetic host who has done a great job of making this recently
renovated farmhouse a pleasant base for exploring Sligo. Guest rooms have firm
beds and fine views of the surrounding countryside (some across the bay to
Rosses Point, others to Ben Bulben or the nearby Lissadell Wood). Breakfast is
often enlivened by Ita’s ardent recitation of her favorite Irish poetry, and you’ll
find literary touches throughout the house, from portraits of Irish writers to a
painting by Yeats’s daughter Ann. If you’d like to rent the entire house by the
week or month, inquire well in advance.
Ballinful (turn off N15 at Drumcliffe), County Sligo. & 071/916-3137. Fax 071/9163574. 4 units. €60 ($75)
double. Rates include full breakfast. 50% discount for children under 12. MC, V. Closed Nov–Feb. In room: TV,
tea/coffeemaker.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
Cromleach Lodge MODERN CONTINENTAL It’s worth the drive
32km (20 miles) south of Sligo Town to dine at this lovely country house over-
looking Lough Arrow. The panoramic views are secondary, however, to chef
Moira Tighe’s culinary creations, which have won a fistful of prestigious awards.
The menu changes nightly, depending on what is freshest and best from the sea
and garden. It may include such dishes as boned stuffed roast quail with a vin-
tage port sauce, halibut with Parmesan crust, and loin of lamb scented with gar-
lic and Irish Mist. For dessert, the white chocolate mousse can be counted on
for perfect closure. The nonsmoking dining room is a delight, with decorated
plaster moldings and chair rails, curio cabinets with figurines and crystal, ruffled
valances, potted palms, and place settings of Rosenthal china and fine Irish
linens and silver.
Ballindoon, Castlebaldwin, County Sligo. & 071/916-5155. Reservations required. Fixed-price 7-course
tasting menu €60 ($75). AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30–9pm. Closed Nov–Jan.
EXPENSIVE
Markree Castle Hotel and Restaurant INTERNATIONAL Long
before Charles and Mary Cooper took over Markree Castle (see “Where to Stay,”
above), they were winning culinary plaudits for Knockmuldowney restaurant,
then in a small house at the base of Knocknarea Mountain on the shores of Bal-
lisodare Bay. When they inherited the castle, they brought the restaurant’s name
with them and have now changed it to match the castle. Even though it’s now
in a more regal and spacious 60-seat setting, under 19th-century Louis
Philippe–style plasterwork, the spotlight is still on the food. It includes such
entrees as supreme of chicken with Cashel blue cheese, escallops of pork with
Morvandelle cream sauce, and roast farmyard duckling with black-cherry-and-
port sauce.
Collooney, County Sligo. & 071/916-7800. Reservations required. Fixed-price dinner €38 ($46). AE, DC,
MC, V. Daily 7–9pm; Sun 1–3pm. Closed several days at Christmas.
M O D E R AT E
Austie’s/The Elsinore SEAFOOD Set on a hill with lovely views of Sligo
Bay, this pub-restaurant boasts nautical knickknacks and fishnets, periscopes
and corks, and paintings of sailing ships. Substantial pub grub is available dur-
ing the day—open-faced “sandbank” sandwiches of crab, salmon, or smoked
mackerel; crab claw or mixed-seafood salads; and hearty soups and chowders.
The dinner menu offers such fresh seafood choices as pan-fried Dover sole and
crab au gratin, as well as steaks and chicken curry. Lobster is also available, at
market prices. Outdoor seating on picnic tables is available in good weather.
Rosses Point Rd. (6.5km/4 miles northwest of Sligo), Rosses Point, County Sligo. & 071/917-7111. Reser-
vations recommended. Main courses €9–€25 ($11–$30). MC, V. Daily 5:30–9:30pm; Sun 12:30–3:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Crazy Jane’s CAFE For breakfast or brunch, try this casual little place
along Sligo’s waterside “Left Bank” You can grab just a coffee and a snack or
indulge in comfort foods like homemade lasagnas, quiches, pasta bakes, or
chicken supreme. A big crowd pleaser is the all-day breakfasts, featuring eggs any
which way, rashers (bacon), bangers (sausages), and fried tomatoes.
Rockwood Parade, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-1976. All items €3–€7 ($3.60–$8.45). No credit cards.
June–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–9pm; Sept–May Mon–Sat 9am–6pm.
The Winding Stair IRISH The sister shop of the Winding Stair in Dublin
offers both food and food for thought. There’s a wide selection of new, second-
hand, and antiquarian books, along with self-service food that is simple and
healthy—sandwiches made with additive-free meats or fruits (such as banana
and honey), organic salads, homemade soups, confections, and natural juices.
Hyde Bridge House, Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/914-1244. All items €3–€8 ($3.60–$9.65). MC, V. Mon–Sat
10am–6pm.
SLIGO AFTER DARK

PUBS
The Crossbar In the heart of Sligo’s rich traditional music scene, this bright
yellow pub stands at the center of the little village of Gurteen. There’s always a
lively buzz from the local crowd, who are drawn by the congeniality of owners
Adrian Tansey and Pauline Walsh and the warmth of the open fireplace. This is
the preferred hangout of the Sligo Gaelic Football team, with the requisite big-
screen television to air major sporting events. Gurteen, County Sligo. & 071/918-2203.
Hargadon Brothers This pub is legendary. More than a century old, this is
the most atmospheric bar in the center of the downtown area. Although it is
strictly a pub now, it also used to be a grocery shop, as you’ll see when you enter
if you glance at the shelves on the right. The decor is a mélange of dark-wood
walls, mahogany counters, stone floors, colored glass, old barrels and bottles, a
potbellied stove, and alcoves lined with early prints of Sligo. There are four
snugs, each with its own special features. Strung together, they are reminiscent
of an old-fashioned railway carriage—a bit cramped but extremely conducive to
conversation. 4 O’Connell St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/917-0933.
Stanford’s Village Inn Five generations of the McGowan family have run
this old tavern, and thankfully not much about its appearance has changed over
the years. There are several comfortable bars with open fires, and there’s a
delightful blend of old stone walls, vintage pictures and posters, oil lamps, and
tweed-covered furnishings. If you’re driving around Lough Gill from Sligo, this
160-year-old pub is a great midway stop for a drink or a snack. Main St., Droma-
hair, County Leitrim. & 071/916-4140.
The Thatch Established in 1638 as a coaching inn, this pub is about 8km (5
miles) south of Sligo on the main road. Before you enter, stand outside for a
moment and admire its thatched roof and whitewashed exterior, a look that has
withstood modernization without loosing a smidgen of charm. Inside, there’s a
country-cottage motif with plenty of photos showing Irish life from the turn of
the 20th century. Irish traditional music usually starts at 9pm on Thursday and
Sunday year-round and Tuesday through Sunday in August. Dublin-Sligo rd. (N4),
Ballisodare, County Sligo. & 071/916-7288.
Yeats Tavern Some 6.5km (4 miles) north of Sligo, across the road from the
famous churchyard where William Butler Yeats is buried, this pub honors the
poet’s memory with quotations from his works, photos, prints, and murals. A
modern tavern and restaurant with a copper-and-wood decor, it is a convenient
place to stop for a snack or a full meal when touring Yeats Country. Donegal rd.
(N15), Drumcliffe, County Sligo. & 071/916-3117.
THE PERFORMING ARTS

Blue Raincoat Theatre This is Sligo’s award-winning theater company. It is
one of only three professional Irish acting companies (the Abbey in Dublin and
the Druid in Galway are the others) that own their own theaters. During July
and August, the Blue Raincoat often presents lunchtime performances of Yeats’s
plays as well as other Sligo-related productions. Evening shows usually start at
8pm. Lower Quay St., Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/917-0431. Tickets cost €10–€12 ($12–$14).
Hawk’s Well Theatre The premier stage of Ireland’s northwest region, this
modern 350-seat theater presents a varied program of drama, comedy, ballet,
opera, and concerts of modern and traditional music. It derives its name from
At the Hawk’s Well, a one-act play by Yeats. The theater occasionally produces
shows, but mostly books visiting professional and local companies. Johnston Court,
Sligo, County Sligo. & 071/916-1526. Tickets average €10 ($12). Mon–Sat box office
10am–6pm; most shows at 8pm.
3 Donegal Town
Donegal Town is 222km (138 miles) NW of Dublin, 283km (176 miles) NE of Shannon Airport, 66km (41 miles)
NE of Sligo, 69km (43 miles) SW of Derry, 180km (112 miles) W of Belfast, 205km (127 miles) NE of Galway,
403km (250 miles) N of Cork, and 407km (253 miles) NE of Killarney
Situated on the estuary of the River Eske on Donegal Bay, Donegal Town (pop.
3,200) is a small, pedestrian-friendly metropolis that’s a pivotal gateway to tour-
ing the county. As recently as the 1940s, the town’s central mall (called “the Dia-
mond”) was used as a market for trading livestock and goods. Today the
marketing is more in the form of tweeds and tourist goods.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Aer Arann (& 01/814-5240; www.aerarann.ie) and Aer
Lingus (& 01/886-8888; www.aerlingus.ie) operate regularly scheduled flights
from Dublin to Donegal Airport, Carrickfinn, Kincasslagh, County Donegal
(& 074/954-8284; www.donegalairport.ie), about 65km (40 miles) northwest
of Donegal Town on the Atlantic coast.
Bus Eireann (& 074/912-1309; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily bus serv-
ice to Donegal Town from Dublin, Derry, Sligo, Galway, and other points. All
tickets are issued on the bus. The pickup and boarding point is in front of the
Abbey Hotel on The Diamond.
There are also a small number of private bus companies serving the northwest
region. For example, McGeehan’s Coaches (& 074/954-6150; www.mgbus.
com) operates multiple daily buses between Donegal and Dublin. They leave from
the Garda Station opposite the Donegal Tourist Office. Between Galway and
Donegal (via Ballyshannon, Bundoran, and Sligo), Feda O’Donnell (& 074/954)
operates at least one daily private coach. Other routes are also available.
If you’re driving from the south, Donegal is reached on N15 from Sligo or
A46 or A47 from Northern Ireland; from the east and north, it’s N15 and N56;
from the west, N56 leads to Donegal Town.
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VISITOR INFORMATION The Donegal Tourist Office, Quay Street

(& 074/972-1148), is open Easter through September, Monday to Friday 9am
to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 6pm, and Sunday noon to 4pm, with extended hours
in July and August. For a wealth of online tourist information, the best websites
are www.goireland.com/donegal and www.donegaltown.ie.
TOWN LAYOUT Donegal Town, which sits to the east of the River Eske, is
laid out around a triangular central mall or market area called “The Diamond,”
where the roads from Killybegs, Ballyshannon, and Ballybofey converge. Main
Street and Upper Main Street, which form the prime commercial strip, extend
northeast from The Diamond.
GETTING AROUND Easily walked, Donegal has no local bus service
within the town. If you need a taxi, call Jim Johnston (& 074/972-1349) or
Brendan McBrearty (& 074/913-3420).
There is free parking along the quay beside the tourist office and off of Main
Street.
A booklet outlining the signposted walking tour of Donegal Town is available

at the tourist office and most bookshops.
FAST FACTS In an emergency, dial & 999. Donegal District Hospital is on
Upper Main Street (& 074/972-1019). The local Garda Station is on Quay
Street (& 074/972-1021).
Donegal County Library, Mountcharles Road (& 074/972-1705), is open
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 3 to 6pm, Saturday 11am to 1pm and 2 to
6pm. Internet access is free (for the time being), but there is a limit of 1 hour
per session. Book ahead.
The Donegal Post Office on Tirconnail Street (& 074/972-1024) is open
Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, Wednesday
9:30am to 5:30pm.
EXPLORING DONEGAL TOWN
The greatest attraction of Donegal Town is the town’s layout itself, a happy mix
of medieval and modern buildings. Most of the structures of interest are there
for you to enjoy at will, with no admission charges, no audiovisuals, no inter-
pretive exhibits, and no crowds.
The Diamond is the triangular market area of town. It’s dominated by a
7.5m-high (25-ft.) obelisk erected as a memorial to four early-7th-century Irish
clerics from the local abbey who wrote The Annals of Ireland, the first recorded
history of Gaelic Ireland.
Lough Derg, filled with many islands, lies about 16km (10 miles) east of
Donegal. Legend has it that St. Patrick spent 40 days and 40 nights fasting in a
cavern at this secluded spot, and since then it has been revered as a place of
penance and pilgrimage. From June 1 to August 15, thousands of Irish people
take turns coming to Lough Derg to do penance for 3 days at a time, remaining
awake and eating nothing but tea and toast. It’s considered one of the most rig-
orous pilgrimages in all of Christendom. To reach the lake, take R232 to Pet-
tigo, then R233 for 8km (5 miles).
Donegal Castle Built in the 15th century beside the River Eske, this
magnificent castle was once the chief stronghold for the O’Donnells, a power-
ful Donegal clan. In the 17th century, during the Plantation period, it came
into the possession of Sir Basil Brook, who added an extension with 10 gables,
a large bay window, and smaller mullioned windows in Jacobean style. Much
of the building has survived the centuries, and both the interior and exterior of
the castle were beautifully restored in 1996. Free 25-minute guided tours are
available.
Castle St., Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-2405. Admission €3.50 ($4.20) adults, €2.50 ($3) sen-
iors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €8.50 ($10) families. Daily 10am–5:15pm. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.
Old Abbey This old Franciscan monastery was founded in 1474 by the
first Red Hugh O’Donnell and his wife, Nuala O’Brien of Munster. Sitting in a
peaceful spot where the River Eske meets Donegal Bay, it was generously
endowed by the O’Donnell family and became an important center of religion
and learning. Great gatherings of clergy and lay leaders assembled here in 1539.
It was from this friary that some of the scholars undertook to salvage old Gaelic
manuscripts and compile The Annals of the Four Masters (1632–36). Enough
remains of its glory days—some impressive ruins of a church and a cloister—for
you to imagine what once was.
The Quay, Donegal, County Donegal. Free admission.
D O N E G A L TOW N 449
SIGHTSEEING CRUISES
Donegal Bay Waterbus The 60-seat, enclosed Waterbus makes daily
tours into Donegal Bay, allowing you to see the bay and the surrounding
scenery. The tour lasts about 90 minutes and passes many local points of inter-
est, including the Old Abbey and Seal Island (where a colony of about 200 seals
lives). Sailing times are usually morning and afternoon or evening, but are
dependent upon weather and the tides. Tickets can be obtained from the ticket
office on the pier. There is a detailed commentary on the sights during the trip.
The Pier, Donegal Town, Donegal. & 074/972-3666. €8 ($9.65) adults, €4.50 ($5.40) seniors and children
under 12. Closed Oct–Apr.
SHOPPING
Most Donegal shops are open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm, with
extended hours in summer and slightly shorter hours in winter.
Donegal Craft Village This cluster of artisans’ shops lies in a rural setting
about a mile south of town. This project provides a creative environment for an
ever-changing group of craftspeople who practice a range of ancient and mod-
ern trades: porcelain, ceramics, hand weaving, batik, jewelry, metalwork, visual
art, and Irish-musical-instrument making. You can buy some one-of-a-kind
treasures or just browse from shop to shop and watch the craftspeople at work.
The coffee shop serves baked goods, snacks, and lunch in the summer only, and
the grounds are a great place for a picnic. The craft studios are open year-round
Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm and Sunday noon to 6pm. Ballyshannon Rd.,
Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-2015.
Forget-Me-Not/The Craft Shop This shop features a wide selection of gifts
both usual and unusual. Items include handmade jewelry, Celtic art cards,
Donegal county banners and hangings, woolly sheep mobiles, Irish traditional
music figures, tweed paintings, bog oak sculptures, and beaten-copper art. The
Diamond, Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-1168.
The Four Masters Bookshop Facing the monument commemorating the
Four Masters, this shop specializes in books of Irish and Donegal interest, plus
Waterford crystal, Celtic-design watches, Masons ironstone figures, and sou-
venir jewelry. The Diamond, Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-1526.
Magee of Donegal Ltd. Established in 1866, this shop is the name for fine
Donegal hand-woven tweeds, including beautiful suits, jackets, overcoats, hats, ties,
and even material on the bolt. The Diamond, Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-2660.
www.mageeshop.com.
Melody Maker Music Shop If you’re enchanted by the traditional and folk
music of Donegal, stop in here for tapes, recordings, and posters. This is also the
main ticket agency for the southwestern section of County Donegal, handling
tickets for most concerts and sports nationwide. Castle St., Donegal, County Donegal.
& 074/972-2326.
Wards Music Shop If you’d like to take home a harp, bodhran, bagpipe,
flute, or tin whistle, this is the shop for you. It specializes in the sale of Irish
musical instruments and instructional books. The stock also includes violins,
mandolins, and accordions. Castle St., Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-1313.
William Britton & Sons Established in 1874, this shop stocks antique jewelry,
silver, crystal, clocks, sports-related sculptures, pens, and watches. W. J. Britton is
a registered appraiser and a fellow of the National Association of Goldsmiths of
Great Britain and Ireland. Main St., Donegal, County Donegal. & 071/912-1131.

BICYCLING The north side of Donegal Bay offers great cycling roads—
tremendously scenic and very hilly. One good but arduous route from Donegal
Town follows the coast roads west to Glencolumbkille (day 1), continues north
to Ardara and Dawros Head (day 2), and then returns to Donegal (day 3). It
takes in some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Ireland along the way.
Rental bikes are available from Pat Boyle (& 074/972-2515). The cost is
roughly €10 ($12) a day, €60 ($75) a week.
FISHING For advice and equipment for fishing in Lough Eske and other local
waters, contact Doherty’s Fishing Tackle, Main Street (& 074/972-1119). The
shop stocks a wide selection of flies, reels, bait, and fishing poles. It’s open Mon-
day to Saturday 9am to 6pm.
WALKING Crossing Boyce’s Bridge on the Killybegs road will bring you to
the beginning of the Bank Walk to your left. This 2.5km (11⁄2-mile) walk is
delightful, following the west bank of the River Eske as it empties into Donegal
Bay. It offers a stunning view of the Old Abbey, Green Island, and Donegal Bay.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
St. Ernan’s House Hotel This is one of the area’s most unusual lodg-
ings—an 1826 country house that is the only structure on a small island in
Donegal Bay that is connected to the mainland by its own causeway. The island,
named for a 7th-century Irish monk, is planted with hawthorn and holly bushes
that have been blooming for almost 3 centuries. The public areas and the Geor-
gian-theme dining room, which is acclaimed for its cuisine, have all been mag-
nificently restored. They hold delicate plasterwork, high ceilings, crystal
chandeliers, gilt-framed oil paintings, heirloom silver, antiques, and open log
fireplaces. The guest rooms, all individually decorated by proprietors Brian and
Carmel O’Dowd, have traditional furnishings, with dark woods, designer fab-
rics, floral art, and period pieces; most have views of the water. It’s a delightful
spot, almost like a kingdom unto itself, yet less than 3.2km (2 miles) south of
Donegal Town.
St. Ernan’s Island, Donegal, County Donegal. & 800/323-5463 in the U.S. or 074/972-1065. Fax
074/972-2098. www.sainternans.com. 12 units. €260–€280 ($313–$337) double. Suites also available.
Rates include full breakfast. 2-course dinner €52 ($63). MC, V. Closed Nov–Easter. Amenities: Drawing
room. In room: TV.
M O D E R AT E
The Abbey In the heart of town, with The Diamond at its front door and
the River Eske at its back, this vintage three-story hotel has been updated and
refurbished in recent years. The guest rooms, about half of which are in a newish
wing overlooking the river, have standard furnishings and bright floral fabrics.
The pub has views of the River Eske, and an outdoor beer garden and patio also
offer great waterside views.
The Diamond, Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-1014. Fax 074/972-3660. www.whites-hotels
ireland.com. 112 units. €140–€160 ($169–$193) double. Rates include service charge and full breakfast. AE,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; lounge. In room: TV, hair dryer, garment press.
Ardnamona House Finds Ardnamona, on Lough Eske under the Blue

Stack Mountains, was described in the Topographical Dictionary of Ireland 1837
as “one of the most picturesque domains in rural Ireland.” The writer Violet
D O N E G A L TOW N 451
French was equally captivated: “I first saw Ardnamona from the lake on a fine
August evening, romantic and picturesque with an appealing beauty which
clings around the heart as if it belonged to a dream world.”
A few miles west of town on the shores of the lake, this gorgeous, idiosyn-
cratic house on 16 hectares (40 acres) of lovely grounds is like a breath of fresh
air when compared to Donegal Town’s mainly run-of-the-mill accommodations.
Run by Amabel and Kieran Clarke, it’s that perfect cross between a grand manor
and an intimate country house. Guest rooms are beautifully done with just the
right combination of color, flair, and restraint. The gardens are a highlight here;
the ideal time to visit is April and May, when the rhododendrons and azaleas are
in full fury. The house is also musically inclined, with a Steinway upon which
Paderewski once played and a small musical theater where concerts are held. Try
to book here first, and use the more conventional Harvey’s Point (see below) as
your backup.
Lough Eske, Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-2650. Fax 074/972-2819. www.ardnamona.com.
6 units. €130–€150 ($157–$181) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner (Fri–Sat only) €35 ($42).
AE, MC, V. Closed Dec 22–Jan 2. Amenities: Sitting room. In room: TV.
The Central Hotel Value Owned and operated by the Hyland family since
1941, this four-story hotel faces Donegal’s main thoroughfare; in back, a mod-
ern extension overlooks Lough Eske—so request a view of the water. Guest
rooms are outfitted with traditional furnishings of dark woods, light florals, and
quilted fabrics. The leisure center pushes this place into the value-for-the-money
category.
The Diamond, Donegal, County Donegal. & 800/528-1234 in the U.S. or 074/972-1027. Fax 074/972-2295.
www.whites-hotelsireland.com. 112 units. €120–€140 ($145–$169) double. Service charge 10%. Rates
include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Dec 24–27. Amenities: Restaurant (bistro); pub; indoor swim-
ming pool; gym; Jacuzzi; steam room; solarium. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, garment press.
Harvey’s Point Country Hotel About 6.5km (4 miles) northwest of

town, this modern, rambling, Swiss-style lodge occupies a 5.2-hectare (13-acre)
woodland setting on the shores of Lough Eske at the foot of the Blue Stack
Mountains. The guest rooms, most of which feature views of Lough Eske and
the hills of Donegal, have traditional mahogany furnishings—some with four-
poster beds. The excellent restaurant was recently expanded down to the edge of
the Lough, so ask for a table by the window and enjoy the sunset on the water.
Lough Eske, Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-2208. Fax 074/972-2352. www.harveyspoint.com. 20
units. €180 ($217) double. Rates include service charge, tax, and full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed week-
days Nov–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (French); bar; lounge; bicycle hire; boat hire. In room: TV, minibar,
INEXPENSIVE
Rhu-Gorse Value This has to be one of the most simply satisfying B&Bs
in Ireland. It’s a little out of the way (8km/5 miles outside Donegal), but wind-
ing your way here is an effort well rewarded. A modern home of stature and
character, Rhu-Gorse has a North Woods feel, with an ample stone fireplace,
open beams, duvets, and lots of custom-fitted pine. Best of all are the panoramic
views of Lough Eske and the encircling Blue Stack Mountains. Beds are firm,
and smoking is not permitted in the rooms.
Lough Eske Dr. (8km/5 miles outside of Donegal), Lough Eske, Donegal, County Donegal. &/fax
074/972-1685. 3 units. €70–€80 ($84–$96) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar.
Free parking. In room: TV.
WHERE TO DINE
Like many towns in northwest Ireland, the best restaurants are the dining rooms
in the hotels. Nevertheless, the following is a good place for a snack or light
meal:
The Weaver’s Loft CAFETERIA Upstairs from Magee’s tweed shop, this 60-
seat self-service restaurant with its huge mural of Donegal on the wall conveys
an aura of times past. The menu changes daily, but usually includes prawn,
cheese, and fruit salads as well as tasty sandwiches, soups, cakes, and tarts.
Magee Shop, The Diamond, Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-2660. Main courses €5–€8 ($6–$9.65).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9:45am–5pm.
DONEGAL AFTER DARK

If you’re in Donegal during July and August, try to take in a performance of the
Donegal Drama Circle at the Donegal Town Summer Theatre, O’Cleary Hall,
Tirconnaill Street (no phone). Performances are held on Tuesday, Wednesday,
and Thursday at 9pm and feature works by Donegal-based playwrights. No
reservations are necessary; admission prices start at €5 ($6) for adults, €2.50
($3) for students.
PUBS
Biddy O’Barnes Finds It’s worth a detour into the Blue Stack Mountains and
the scenic Barnesmore Gap, 11km (7 miles) northeast of Donegal Town, to visit
this pub, which has been in the same family for four generations. Passing
through the front door—with its etched glass window and iron latch—is like
entering a country cottage, with blazing turf fires, stone floors, wooden stools
and benches, and old hutches full of plates and bric-a-brac. A commanding por-
trait of Biddy, who once owned the house, hangs over the main fireplace. On
most evenings there’s a spontaneous music session. Donegal-Ballybofey rd. (N15), Bar-
nesmore, County Donegal. & 074/972-1402.
The Olde Castle Bar There is an old-Donegal aura at this little pub, which
has a welcoming open fireplace, etched glass, whitewashed walls, and old jars
and crocks. Castle St., Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-1062.
The Schooner Inn Model ships and seafaring memorabilia decorate this pub.
There is music on most summer evenings, with traditional Irish music on Mon-
day and Saturday, folk on Wednesday, and singing acts on Thursday, Friday, and
Sunday. Upper Main St., Donegal, County Donegal. & 074/972-1671.
4 The Donegal Bay Coast

The Donegal Bay coast extends for 80km (50 miles): from Bundoran, 32km (20 miles) S of Donegal Town, to
Glencolumbkille, 48km (30 miles) W of Donegal Town
The Donegal Bay coast is composed of two almost equal parts: the area from
Ballyshannon north to Donegal Town (Southern Donegal Bay) and the area
west of Donegal Town, stretching to Glencolumbkille (Northern Donegal Bay).
On a map, the coast looks like a lobster claw reaching out from Donegal Town
to grasp the bay’s beautiful waters. Beaches, watersports, and coastal scenery are
definitely the main drawing cards, but the Donegal Bay coast holds many other
attractions, from bustling seaport towns to folk museums and craft centers.
For scenic beauty, the two sides of the coast are far from equal. The southern
side tends more toward the tourist (read tacky) seaside resort, with Bundoran as
Ardara Heritage Center 10 0 10 mi
Tory Island N
Doe Castle 2 0 10 km
Fort Dunree 5 Tory Sound Horn
Franciscan Friary Museum 9 Inishbofin Head
Glebe House & Gallery 4 Rosguill Pollan Bay
Bloody Foreland
Glencolumbkille Folk Village 11 Dunfanaghy
Gola Island Ballyliffin
1 Fanad Malin
Glenveagh National Park 3 Owey Island Culdaff Bay
N56 ARDS FOREST
Greencastle Maritime Museum 7 Rosses Bay Bunbeg Clonmany
Lou
PARK Carrigart
Grianan of Aileach 6 R247
gh S
Burtonport Creeslough Carrowkeel 5 INISHOWEN PENINSULA Kinnagoe Bay
Gweedore
Lough Derg 8 Mount 2
willy
Aranmore Errigal
The Workhouse 1 Island R259 Lough Beagh N56 Buncrana Moville
Dunglow Millford Rathmullan 7
3 Greencastle
Derryveagh Mountains GLENVEAGH R238
Slieve NATIONAL PARK Inch Fahan
Gweebarra Doocharry Snacht Gartan Rathmelton Island Lough Foyle
N56 4 6
Bay Lough A2
Muff
A37
Lougnros More Bay Fintown Grianan Of Aileach
N13
R250
(Stone Fort)
Letterkenny A2 Limavady
Lough FinnD Derry
Glencolumbkille Ardara Glenties DONEGAL
ONEGAL
N14
Glen Bay N56
11 10 Raphoe DERRY
A5 ( N O R T HE
H E R N I R E LAN
LAND)
Malin Bay
A6
Slieve League Blue Stack Mountains
R263
Lough Eske Ballybofey N15 Lifford COUNTY
DONEGAL
N56
Strabane
ATLANTIC Killybegs N15
NORTHERN
Inver Bay IRELAND
OCEAN Mountcharles DONEGAL
Lough Dublin
9
Rossnowlagh Derg Cranaugh
Donegal Bay 8
REPUBLIC OF
N15
5 TYR
T Y R O NE
NE IRELAND
Bundoran Ballyshannon ((NORT
N O R T HERN
H E R N I RELAND)
RELAND)
Pettigo
453
County Donegal
F E R M A N A G H (NORTHERN IRELAND)
the litmus; Rossnowlagh is somewhat more appealing, however, and does have
one of the finest beaches in the region. The northern Donegal Bay coast, on the
other hand, is nothing short of spectacular. Once you travel west of Killybegs,
the mountains reach right to the sea, creating the beautifully indented coastline
around Kilcar and the incomparable Slieve League cliffs.
AREA ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Aer Arann (& 01/
814-5240; www.aerarann.ie) operates regularly scheduled flights from Dublin to
Donegal Airport, Carrickfinn, Kincasslagh, County Donegal (& 074/954-8284),
about 65km (40 miles) north of Killybegs.
ice to Killybegs and Glencolumbkille, on the northern half of the bay, and to
Ballyshannon and Bundoran, on the southern half of the bay.
The best way to get to and around Donegal Bay is by car. Follow the N15
route on the southern half of the bay, the N56 route on the northern half of the
bay.
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the North West Tourism Office, Aras
Reddan, Temple Street, Sligo (& 071/916-1201; www.northwestireland.travel.ie);
the Letterkenny Tourist Office, Derry Road, Letterkenny (& 074/912-1160); or
Bundoran Tourist Office, Main Street, Bundoran, County Donegal (& 071/
984-1350). The first two are open year-round; the third is open daily from June
through August and Thursday to Sunday in September.
SOUTHERN DONEGAL BAY
To reach the southern section of Donegal Bay from Sligo, take the N15 road up
the Atlantic coast, and at about 32km (20 miles) north, you’ll come to Bundo-
ran, the southern tip of County Donegal and a major beach resort.
Continuing up the coast, you’ll pass Ballyshannon, dating from the 15th
century and one of the oldest inhabited towns in Ireland; it’s another favorite
with beachgoers, and it boasts some 21 lively pubs, many offering traditional
music in the evenings. In late July or early August, there’s the Ballyshannon
Folk Festival, when music rings through the streets day and night.
Two kilometers (just over a mile) northwest of town, the once-famous Cis-
tercian Assaroe Abbey, founded in 1184, now lies in ruins, although its mill
wheel has been restored and is driven by water from the Abbey River just as in
ancient days. Some 50m (164 ft.) away, at the edge of the Abbey River, Catsby
Cave is a grottolike setting where a rough-hewn altar reminds you that Mass was
celebrated here during the Penal years, when the ritual was prohibited by law.
At this point, leave the main road and head for the coastal resort of Ross-
nowlagh, one of the loveliest beaches in this part of Ireland. At over 3.2km (2
miles) long and as wide as the tides allow, it’s a flat sandy stretch shielded by
flower-filled hills and ideal for walking. You’ll see horses racing on it occasion-
ally. This spot is a splendid vantage point for watching sunsets over the churn-
ing foam-rimmed waters of the Atlantic.
Overlooking the beach from a hilltop is the Franciscan Friary, Rossnow-
lagh (& 071/985-1342), which houses a small museum of local Donegal
history. The complex also contains beautiful gardens and walks overlooking
the sea, a tearoom with outdoor seating, and a shop with religious objects. It’s
open daily from 10am to 8pm. There’s no admission charge, but donations are
welcome.
T H E D O N E G A L B AY C O A S T 455
From Rossnowlagh, return to the main road via the Donegal Golf Club (see
“Sports & Outdoor Pursuits,” below) at Murvagh, a spectacular setting nestled
on a rugged sandy peninsula of primeval dune land, surrounded by a wall of
dense woodlands. From here, the road curves inland and it’s less than 16km (10
miles) to Donegal Town.
SHOPPING
Britton and Daughters In a cottage opposite the Sand House Hotel, this
workshop is a source of unusual artistic crafts. Its wares include mirrors or glass
hand-etched with local scenes and Celtic, nautical, floral, and wildlife designs;
prints of traditional musicians; carved rocks (heads, Celtic designs, dolphins,
and so on); posters; and pottery with surfing and Irish music themes. Off the
Ballyshannon-Donegal rd., Rossnowlagh, County Donegal. & 071/985-2220.
Donegal Parian China Established in 1985, this pottery works produces
wafer-thin Parian china gift items and tableware in patterns of the shamrock,
rose, hawthorn, and other Irish flora. Free guided tours (every 20 min.) enable
visitors to watch as vases, bells, spoons, thimbles, wall plaques, lamps, and
eggshell coffee and tea sets are shaped, decorated, fired, and polished. There is
also an audiovisual room, an art gallery, a tearoom, and a showroom and shop
here. Bundoran rd. (N15), Ballyshannon, County Donegal. & 071/985-1826.
BEACHES Donegal Bay’s beaches are wide, sandy, clean, and flat—ideal for
walking. The best are Rossnowlagh and Bundoran.
GOLF The Donegal Bay coast is home to two outstanding 18-hole champi-
onship seaside golf courses. Donegal Golf Club, Murvagh, Ballintra, County
Donegal (& 074/973-4054; www.donegalgolfclub.ie), is 4.8km (3 miles) north
of Rossnowlagh and 11km (7 miles) south of Donegal Town. It’s a par-73 course
The Bundoran Golf Club, off the Sligo-Ballyshannon road (N15), Bundo-
ran, County Donegal (& 071/984-1302; www.golfeurope.com/clubs/
bundoran), is a par-69 course designed by the great Harry Vardon. The greens
fees are €40 ($48) weekdays, €50 ($60) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING Stracomer Riding School Ltd., off the Sligo-
Ballyshannon road (N15), Bundoran, County Donegal (& 071/984-1787),
specializes in trail riding on the surrounding farmlands, beaches, dunes, and
mountain trails. An hour’s ride averages €18 ($22).
SURFING Bundoran has hosted the European Surfing Championships. Ross-
nowlagh is also a surfer’s mecca. When the surf is up, you can rent boards and
wet suits locally for roughly €4 ($4.80) per hour per item.
W H E R E T O S TAY
Great Northern Hotel Set on 52 hectares (130 acres) of grounds that
include parkland, sand dunes, and an 18-hole golf course, this sprawling multi-
winged hotel is right on Donegal Bay. The hotel’s interior was recently refur-
bished with a bright modern Irish motif, and the rooms were spruced up with a
new, contemporary look; most rooms have views of the sea or the golf course. A
favorite with Irish families, it’s on the northern edge of Bundoran.
Sligo-Donegal rd. (N15), Bundoran, County Donegal. & 071/9841204. Fax 071/9841114. www.great
northernhotel.com. 111 units. €190–€220 ($229–$265) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish
breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec 24–Jan 2. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, grill); bar; indoor swim-
ming pool; gym; children’s playroom; room service. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Sand House Hotel On a crescent of beach overlooking the Atlantic

coast, this award-winning three-story hotel is a standout in County Donegal. It
is reminiscent of those old-fashioned beach resort hotels where people strolled
on the beach in crisp linen trousers and then returned to the hotel for martinis
before dinner. The Sand House began as a fishing lodge in 1886. In 1949 Vin-
cent and Mary Britton moved in and began their quest to create a top-notch
hotel. With open log and turf fireplaces, the public rooms are decorated with
antiques and local artwork, and a sunlit, plant-filled conservatory offers great
views of the sea. Guest rooms vary in size but all are decorated with designer fab-
rics, antiques, and such period pieces as hand-carved armoires and vanities; a few
have canopied or four-poster beds. The best rooms have wide picture windows
with vistas of the Atlantic. The dining room—which, surprisingly, does not
overlook the sea—is presided over by a creative chef who specializes in locally
harvested Donegal Bay lobster, oysters, scallops, mussels, and other seafood. In
keeping with the vintage resort aura, there’s a marine spa offering beauty treat-
ments. There’s also a midweek cabaret as well as weekend entertainment.
Off the Ballyshannon-Donegal rd. (N15), Rossnowlagh, County Donegal. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or
071/985-1777. Fax 071/985-2100. www.sandhouse-hotel.ie. 64 units. €170–€300 ($205–$361) double.
Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed late Dec to Jan. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood); bar;
lounge; tennis court; marine spa; Jacuzzi; steam room; conservatory; croquet; private 3.2km (2-mile) beach.
WHERE TO DINE
Smuggler’s Creek SEAFOOD For great food and grand sunset views,
head to this little gem perched on a cliff overlooking Donegal Bay. It’s in an
1845 stone building that has been restored and enlarged to include a conserva-
tory-style dining area with open fireplaces, beamed ceilings, stone walls, wooden
stools, porthole windows, crab traps, and lobster pots. Seafood is the star attrac-
tion, and proprietor Conor Britton pulls his own oysters and mussels from local
beds. The bar menu ranges from soups, salads, and sandwiches to buttered gar-
lic mussels or fresh pâté. Dinner entrees include Smugglers sea casserole (scal-
lops, salmon, and prawns with Mornay sauce), deep-fried squid with Provençal
sauce, tiger prawns in garlic butter, wild Irish salmon hollandaise, steaks with
whiskey sauce, and vegetarian pasta or stir-fry dishes. The restaurant is non-
smoking; the bar is not. More than a dozen B&B rooms with private bathroom
are available for €80 ($96) double.
Rossnowlagh, County Donegal. & 071/985-2366. Reservations required for dinner. Dinner main courses
€12–€24 ($14–$29). DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–8:30pm. Closed Mon–Tues Oct–Easter.
S O U T H E R N D O N E G A L B AY A F T E R D A R K
In summer Rossnowlagh is a hub of social activity. People flock to the Sand House
Hotel, on Rossnowlagh beach, Rossnowlagh, County Donegal (& 071/985-1777;
www.sandhouse-hotel.ie), for the nautical atmosphere of the Surfers Bar.
Farther south, Dorrian’s Thatch Bar, Main Street, Ballyshannon, County
Donegal (& 071/985-1147), holds nightly sessions of Irish traditional music in
summer.
NORTHERN DONEGAL BAY
From Donegal Town, follow the main road (N56) for a slow, spectacularly sce-
nic drive along the northern coast of Donegal Bay. You’ll encounter narrow,
winding roads, sheer cliffs, craggy rocks, bog lands, panoramic mountain and
sea views, and more than a few sheep. You’ll also see the distinctive thatched-roof
cottages that are typical of this area—with rounded roofs, because a network of
ropes (sugans) ties down the thatch and fastens it to pins beneath the eaves, to
protect it from the prevailing winds off the sea. It’s only 48km (30 miles) to
Glencolumbkille, but plan on it taking over an hour.
Your first stop could be at Killybegs—where, if you arrive around sundown,
you can watch the fishing boats unloading the day’s catch—or at Studio Done-
gal in Kilcar if you’re casting for tweed (see “Shopping,” below). A must-stop is
Slieve League , the highest sea cliffs in Europe. The turnoff for the Bunglas
viewing point is at Carrick. Once at the cliffs, you must decide whether you
want to merely gaze at their 300m (1,000-ft.) splendor or to experience them in-
your-face close and personal on the wind-buffeted walk along the ridge. This
walk should only be for the fearless and fit. Including the climb up and then
back down, the hike is about 10km (6 miles) and takes 4 or 5 hours.
Just before you come to Killybegs, the N56 road swings inland and north-
ward. Continue on the coastal road west to Glencolumbkille , an Atlantic
outpost dating back 5,000 years. It’s what the Irish would call “the back of
beyond.” The rest of us would call it a dead end; the road literally stops here
right before the sea. It is said that St. Columba established a monastery here in
the 6th century and gave his name to the glen. In the 1950s this area was endan-
gered by a 75% emigration rate, until the parish priest, James McDyer, focused
the energies of the town not only on ensuring the community’s future but also
on preserving its past. He helped accomplish both by founding the Glen-
columbkille Folk Park (& 074/973-0017). Built by the people of Glen-
columbkille in the form of a tiny village, or clachan, this modest theme park of
thatched cottages—each outfitted with period furniture and artifacts—reflects
life in this remote corner of Ireland over the past several centuries. Two minia-
ture playhouses are on hand for children. The tearoom serves a simple menu of
traditional Irish dishes, such as stews and brútin, composed mainly of hot milk
and potatoes. Don’t miss the Guinness cake, a house specialty. In the sheebeen, a
shop of traditional products, don’t dismiss the admittedly bizarre-flavored local
wines—fuchsia, heather, seaweed, and tea and raisin—until you’ve tried them
all. They’re surprisingly good. Recent additions to the folk park include a visi-
tors reception hall and an interpretive center, housing a range of engaging
exhibits. Admission and tour are €2.75 ($3.30) for adults, €2 ($2.40) for sen-
iors and children, and €9.50 ($11) for families. It’s open from Easter through
September, Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm, Sunday noon to 6pm.
To continue touring from Glencolumbkille, follow the signs for Ardara over
a mountainous inland road. Soon you’ll come to one of the most breathtaking
drives in Ireland, through Glengesh Pass, a narrow, sinuous, scenic roadway
that rises to a height of 270m (900 ft.) before plunging, in a zigzag pattern, into
the valley below. The road leads eventually to Ardara, known for its tweed and
woolen craft centers (see section 5, “The Atlantic Highlands,” below).
SHOPPING
Folk Village Shop Part of Glencolumbkille’s folk park mentioned above, this
is well worth a visit in its own right for smart shopping. The well-stocked shelves
of this whitewashed cottage feature the arts and crafts of members of the local
community—hand-knit sweaters and other woolen items, turf-craft art, books,
jewelry, and assorted cottage industry souvenirs. Since the Folk Village operates
as a charitable trust, purchases are not subject to VAT (sales tax), so you save some
money and help a good cause by shopping here. Glencolumbkille, County Donegal.
& 074/973-0017.
Studio Donegal Started in 1979, this hand-weaving enterprise is distinguished

by its knobby tweed, subtly colored in tones of beige, oat, and ash. You can walk
around both the craft shop and the mill and see the chunky-weave stoles, caps,
jackets, and cloaks in the making. Other products fashioned of this unique tweed
include tote bags, cushion covers, table mats, tapestries, and wall hangings. Kilcar
is on the R263 between Killybegs and Glencolumbkille, about 32km (20 miles)
west of Donegal Town. Glebe Mill, Kilcar. & 074/973-8194. www.studiodonegal.ie.
Taipeis Gael The name says it all. “Gaelic Tapestry” refers to a group of
artists who create fabulously unique, quintessentially Irish tapestries. They have
learned the traditional skills of natural dyeing, carding, spinning, and weaving
from others in Donegal, handed down from generation to generation. Their tap-
estries are strongly influenced by Gaelic culture, music, archaeology, folklore,
and social history. The group hosts weeklong courses during the summer
months. Considering the work and skill involved, these works of art are a bar-
gain. Malin Beg, Glencolumbkille, County Donegal. & 074/973-0325.
BEACHES Glencolumbkille has two fine beaches: One is the flat, broad,
sandy beach at the end of Glencolumbkille village, where the R263 swings left;
the lesser-known gem is a tiny beach surrounded by a horseshoe of cliffs, acces-
sible from the small road signposted to Malin More (off the R263) about a mile
southwest of town.
BICYCLING If you’re very fit, the north side of Donegal Bay offers great
cycling roads—tremendously scenic though very hilly. One good but arduous
route from Donegal Town follows the coast roads west to Glencolumbkille (day
1), continues north to Ardara and Dawros Head via Glengesh Pass (day 2), and
then returns to Donegal (day 3). It takes in some of the most spectacular coastal
scenery in Ireland along the way. Rental bikes are available in Donegal from Pat
Boyle (& 074/972-2515) at The Bike Shop, Waterloo Place, Donegal, for
roughly €10 ($12) per day and €60 ($75) per week.
FISHING Surrounded by waters that hold shark, skate, pollock, conger, cod,
and mackerel, Killybegs is one of the most active centers on the northwest coast
for commercial and sport sea fishing. Brian McGilloway (& 074/973-2444)
operates full-day fishing expeditions on the 12m (40-ft.) MV Meridian, from
Blackrock Pier. Prices average €50 ($60) per person per day, plus €10 ($12) for
rods and tackle, or €350 ($422) for a party of eight to 10 (eight is preferable for
comfort). The daily schedule and departure times vary according to demand;
reservations are required.
WALKING The peninsula that extends westward from Killybegs boasts some
of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Ireland, and much of it is accessible
only from the sea or on foot. The grandeur of the Slieve League cliffs is not to
be missed, but only if you have good hiking boots and basic provisions. The best
way to visit this natural monument is to hike from the Bunglass lookout point
to Trabane Strand in Malin Beg, a few miles southwest of Glencolumbkille. This
walk involves crossing the renowned “One Man’s Pass,” a vertigo-inducing nar-
row ridge with steep drops on both sides. The distance from Bunglass to Trabane
Strand is 15km (9 miles), and you will have to arrange a pickup at the end. The
summits of the Slieve League, rising almost 600m (2,000 ft.) above the sea, are
often capped in clouds, and you should think twice about undertaking the walk
if there is danger of losing visibility along the way.
Another lesser-known walk that is just as spectacular is the coastal walk

between Glencolumbkille and the town of Maghera (not so much a town as a
small cluster of houses). Glen Head, topped by a Martello tower, overlooks
Glencolumbkille to the north. This walk begins with a climb to the tower and
continues along the cliff face for 24km (15 miles), passing only one remote
outpost of human habitation along the way, the tiny town of Port. For isolated
sea splendor, this is one of the finest walks in Ireland, but only experienced
walkers with adequate provisions should undertake the walk, and only in fine
weather.
W H E R E T O S TAY
Bay View Hotel Right on the harbor in the middle of Killybegs, this four-
story hotel is as close to the water as you can get without getting wet. Guest
rooms are decorated in contemporary style with light pine furnishings, bright
quilted fabrics, and brass accessories, all enhanced by wide-windowed views of
the marina and fishing boats. Ask about special deals for multinight stays.
1–2 Main St., Killybegs, County Donegal. & 074/9731950. Fax 074/973-1856. www.bayviewhotel.ie. 40
units. €120–€152 ($145–$183) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant
(international); 2 bars; indoor swimming pool; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room. In room: TV.
Bruckless House Clive and Joan Evans have restored their mid-18th-cen-
tury farmhouse with such care and taste that every room is a pleasure to enter
and enjoy. Furniture and art they brought back from their years in Hong Kong
add a special elegance. All the guest rooms are smoke-free, spacious, and bright.
Joan’s gardens have taken first prize in County Donegal’s country garden com-
petition at least twice in recent years. Inside and out, Bruckless House is a gem.
Be sure to ask Clive to introduce you to his fine Connemara ponies, which he
raises and treasures.
Signposted on N56, 19km (12 miles) west of Donegal, Bruckless, County Donegal. & 074/973-7071. Fax
074/973-7070. 4 units, 1 with private bathroom. €100 ($120) double with bathroom; €85 ($102) double
with shared bathroom. Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Oct–Mar. Amenities: Sitting room;
nonsmoking rooms. In room: No phone.
Dún Ulún House Value Dún Ulún House, one of the best bargains in this
part of the world, caters to a remarkably diverse clientele. First there’s the B&B,
in a modern, purpose-built guesthouse. The building is unremarkable, but
remains in the memory long after you’ve left, thanks to the graciousness of the
Lyons family and the extraordinary beauty of the seaside scene it overlooks. The
rooms (with orthopedic beds) are pleasant and comfortable. Then there’s the
cottage, also overlooking the sea, with an open fire in the kitchen and basic,
functional furnishings in the bedrooms; rates are €25 to €27 ($30–$33) per
person per night. There’s also a separate self-catering cottage across the street,
which rents by the week for €250 to €400 ($301–$480) plus electricity. Finally,
there’s an in-house, eponymous band made up of five college-age girls—the
Lyons’s daughter, two nieces, and two friends—who play some of the best tra-
ditional music you’ll hear anywhere. During school holidays, they often play
locally in the Piper’s Rest (see below) and also for guests at the B&B. Denis
Lyons is a great source of information on the archaeology of the Kilcar region
and can direct you to many fascinating and little-known sites.
R263 (1.6km/1 mile west of Kilcar), Kilcar, County Donegal. & 074/973-8137. 10 units, 9 with private bath-
room. €50–€54 ($60–$65) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Sitting
room. In room: TV.
The Glencolumbkille Hotel If you want to get away from it all, this hotel
is the westernmost outpost in Donegal. Edged by Malin Bay and the Atlantic
Ocean, encircled by craggy mountains that are populated mostly by meandering
woolly sheep, it’s a lovely spot, with turf fireplaces to warm you and a cottage
atmosphere to cheer you. There’s also a good dining room, with panoramic
views of the countryside. A renovation of the entire hotel was completed in
2000. Most rooms have views of the sea or the valley.
Glencolumbkille, County Donegal. & 074/973-0003. Fax 074/973-0222. 37 units. €98–€108 ($118–$130)
double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar. In room: TV.
WHERE TO DINE
The Blue Haven CONTINENTAL On a broad, open sweep of Donegal
Bay between Killybegs and Kilcar, this modern sky-lit restaurant offers 180-
degree views of the bay from a semicircular bank of windows. It’s an ideal stop
for a meal or light refreshment while touring. The bar-food menu, available
throughout the day, offers soups, sandwiches, and omelets with unusual fillings.
The dinner menu includes filet of rainbow trout, T-bone and sirloin steaks, and
savory mushroom pancakes. You can stay the night in one of 15 rooms, with
views of Donegal Bay and bed and breakfast for €80 ($96).
Largymore, Kilcar, County Donegal. & 074/973-8090. Reservations recommended for dinner. Dinner main
courses €9–€16 ($11–$19). MC, V. May–Oct daily 11am–11pm; Nov–Apr weekends only.
Kitty Kelly’s Value SEAFOOD/CONTINENTAL This 200-year-old con-

verted farmhouse is one of the most popular eateries in Killybegs. You can’t miss
it on the coast road out of Killybegs—just look for a bright fuchsia house with
a green door next to Fentra Beach. The exterior may be funky and trendy, but
inside the place is still packed with old-world charm, from the old cutlery side-
board to the wood stairs and cosseting rooms (small, intimate parlors). Seafood
is a specialty, but there is also a wide array of pasta dishes as well as traditional
Irish fare, such as stew and shepherd’s pie.
Largy, Killybegs, County Donegal (5km/3 miles west of Killybegs on coast road). & 074/973-1925. Dinner
main courses €8–€15 ($9.65–$18). AE, MC, V. Daily 7–9:30pm.
PUBS
Harbour Bar This popular meeting place holds an Irish-music night on Tues-
days during July and August. Main St., Killybegs, County Donegal. & 074/973-1049.
Piper’s Rest This thatched-roof pub has a country half-door, original stone
walls, arches, flagged floors, an open turf fire, and a unique stained-glass win-
dow depicting a piper. Music may erupt at any time, and usually does on sum-
mer nights; the pub also features a fine collection of pipes, many of which are
likely to be in use. Watch out for a local band called Dún Ulún, five college girls
whose traditional music brings down the house when they’re home on school
breaks. Kilcar, County Donegal. & 074/973-8205.
5 The Atlantic Highlands

The Atlantic Highlands start at Ardara, 40km (25 miles) NW of Donegal Town, 16km (10 miles) N of Killybegs
Scenery is the keynote to the Atlantic Highlands of Donegal—vast stretches of
coastal and mountain scenery, beaches and bays, rocks and ruins. It’s sometimes
lonely but always breathtaking. Set far off the beaten track and deep amid the
coastal scenery is Mount Errigal, the highest mountain in Donegal (740m/2,466
ft.). It gently slopes down to one of Ireland’s greatest visitor attractions, the
Glenveagh National Park.
T H E AT L A N T I C H I G H L A N D S 461
The best place to start a tour of Donegal’s Atlantic Highlands is at Ardara ,

an adorable small town on the coast about 40km (25 miles) northwest of Done-
gal Town. From here, it’s easy to weave your way up the coast. This drive can
take 4 hours or 4 days, depending on your schedule and interests.
The deeper you get into this countryside, the more you’ll be immersed in a
section known as the Gaeltacht, or Irish-speaking area. This should present no
problems, except that most of the road signs are only in Irish. If you keep to the
main road (N56), you should have no difficulties. If you follow little roads off
to the seashore or down country paths, you might have a problem figuring out
where you’re going (unless you can read Irish). In many cases, the Irish word for
a place bears no resemblance to the English equivalent (An Clochan Liath in Irish
is Dungloe in English), so our best advice is to buy a map with place names in
both languages or stick to the main road.
ATLANTIC HIGHLANDS ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Aer Arann (& 01/814-
5240; www.aerarann.ie) operates regularly scheduled flights from Dublin to
Donegal Airport, Carrickfinn, Kincasslagh, County Donegal (& 074/
954-8284), in the heart of the Atlantic coast.
ice to Ardara and Glenties.
The best way to get to and around Donegal’s Atlantic Highlands is by car, fol-
lowing the main N56 route.
Reddan, Temple Street, Sligo (& 071/916-1201; www.northwestireland.
travel.ie); the Letterkenny Tourist Office, Derry Road, Letterkenny (& 074/
912-1160); or the Donegal Tourist Office, Quay Street, Donegal (& 074/
972-1148). The first two are open year-round; the third is open from May
through September.
Ardara, known for its local tweed and sweater industries, is one of the north-
west’s most charming little towns. It’s particularly worth a stop for shoppers (see
the listings below, under “Shopping”). North of Ardara, the route travels inland
near Gweebarra Bay and passes through Dungloe to an area known as the
Rosses, extending from Gweebarra Bridge as far north as Crolly. This stretch
presents a wealth of rock-strewn land, with many mountains, rivers, lakes, and
beaches. Here you can visit Burtonport (otherwise known as Ailt an Chorrain),
one of the country’s premier fishing ports; it’s said that more salmon and lobster
are landed here than at any other port in Ireland or Britain.
North of the Rosses, between Derrybeg and Gortahork, is an area known as
the Bloody Foreland, a stretch of land that derives its name from the fact that
its rocks take on a warm ruddy color when lit by the setting sun. This is a sight
that should not be missed.
Next you’ll approach the top rim of Donegal, which is dominated by a series
of small peninsulas or fingers of land jutting out into the sea. Chief among these
scenic areas are Horn Head and Ards. The latter contains a forested park with
a wide diversity of terrain: woodlands, a salt marsh, sand dunes, seashore, fresh-
water lakes, and fenland.
In Tory Sound, 15km (9 miles) north of the mainland, the treeless Tory
Island lies desolate and seemingly uninhabitable. The truth is that Tory Island,
all of 4km (21⁄2 miles) long and less than 1.6km (1 mile) wide, has been settled
for thousands of years and currently boasts nearly 200 year-round inhabitants.
Known for its painters and pirates, ruins and bird cliffs, Tory makes for a great
adventure. The crossing can be made daily, weather permitting, from Bunbeg or
Magheraroarty with Donegal Coastal Cruises, Strand Road, Middletown, Der-
rybeg, County Donegal (& 074/933-1320 or 074/953-1340). There are four
daily sailings June through September, five sailings per week the rest of the year.
Round-trip fares are €25 ($30) for adults, €16 ($19) for seniors and students,
€10 ($12) for children under 15, and free for children under 5.
After Horn Head, the next spit of land to the east is Rosguill. The 16km (10-
mile) route around this peninsula is called the Atlantic Drive. This leads you to yet
another peninsula, the Fanad, with a 73km (45-mile) circuit between Mulroy Bay
and Lough Swilly. The resort of Rathmullan is a favorite stopping point here.
After you drive to all these scenic peninsulas, it might come as a surprise that
many of the greatest visitor attractions of the Atlantic Highlands are not along
the coast, but inland, a few miles off the main N56 road near Kilmacrennan.
Ardara Heritage Centre Ardara has long been a center for weaving, and
varied displays represent the history of tweed production in the region. The weaver
in residence is sometimes present to demonstrate techniques. A video provides an
outline of nearby places of interest. The center opened in 1995 and is building its
collections and exhibits. A cafe serves inexpensive teas, soups, and simple meals.
On N56 in the center of Ardara, County Donegal. & 074/954-1704. Admission €2.50 ($3) adults, €1.30
($1.55) seniors and students, €1 ($1.20) children under 14. Easter–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 2–6pm.
Doe Castle This tower house is surrounded on three sides by the waters
of Sheep Haven Bay and on the fourth by a moat carved into the bedrock that
forms its foundation. A battlement wall with round towers at the corners
encloses the central tower; the view from the battlements across the bay is
superb. Built in the early 16th century, the castle was extensively restored in the
18th century and inhabited until 1843. If the entrance is locked, you can get the
key from the caretaker in the house nearest the castle. With its remote seaside
location and sweeping views of the nearby hills, this is one of the most beauti-
fully situated castles in Ireland.
5.6km (31⁄2 miles) off N56; turnoff signposted just south of Creeslough, County Donegal. Free admission.
Glebe House and Gallery Finds Sitting in woodland gardens on the

shores of Lough Gartan, about 6.5km (4 miles) southwest of Glenveagh, this
Regency-style house was built as a rectory in the 1820s. It was owned until
recently by English artist Derek Hill, who donated the house and his art collec-
tion to the Irish government for public use and as an enhancement to the area
he loves. The house is decorated with Donegal folk art, Japanese and Islamic art,
Victoriana, and William Morris papers and textiles. The adjacent stables have
been converted into an art gallery housing the 300-item Hill Collection of
works by Picasso, Bonnard, Kokoschka, Yeats, Annigoni, Pasmore, and Hill. It’s
more than surprising to find this first-rate 20th-century art collection in a
remote part of Donegal, but then, this is a surprising place.
18km (11 miles) northwest of Letterkenny on the Churchill rd. (R251), Church Hill, County Donegal.
& 074/913-7071. Admission €3 ($3.60) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children,
€7 ($8.45) families. Mid-May to Sept Sat–Thurs 11am–6:30pm; last tour at 5:30pm.
Glenveagh National Park Deep in the heart of County Donegal, far

off the coastal path, this 14,000-hectare (35,000-acre) estate is considered by
many to be Ireland’s finest national park. The core of the park is the Glenveagh
Estate, originally the home of the notorious landlord John George Adair, much
despised for his eviction of Irish tenant farmers in 1861. He built the castle in
the 1870s. From 1937 to 1983, the estate prospered under the stewardship of
Henry McIlhenny, a distinguished Philadelphia art historian who restored the
baronial castle and planted gardens full of exotic species of flowers and shrubs.
McIlhenny subsequently gave Glenveagh to the Irish nation for use as a public
park, and today the fairy-tale setting includes woodlands, herds of red deer,
alpine gardens, a sylvan lake, and the highest mountain in Donegal, Mount Erri-
gal. Visitors can tour the castle and gardens and explore the park on foot. The
complex includes a visitor center with a continuous audiovisual show; displays
on the history, flora, and fauna of the area; and nature trails. There is a restau-
rant in the visitor center, and a tearoom in the castle.
Main entrance on R251, Church Hill, County Donegal. & 074/913-7090. www.heritageireland.ie. Park
admission and castle tour €2.75 ($3.30) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors, €1.25 ($1.50) students and children, €7
($8.45) families. No credit cards. Mid-Mar to 1st Sun in Nov daily 10am–6:30pm. Closed Fri in Oct.
The Workhouse This imposing stone structure was constructed in 1844,

just before the height of the famine, and it provided meals and a roof for more
than 300 local people. Life in a workhouse was miserable, and they were places
of last resort: Families were separated, inmates were subjected to harsh physical
labor on a minimal food allowance, and once you entered, you were forbidden
to leave. Still, by 1846 most of the 100,000 places in workhouses throughout
Ireland were filled. The exhibits portray the life of workhouse inmates and relate
local famine history. There is also an exhibit on the history of Dunfanaghy and
an audiovisual presentation on the natural history of the region. Occasionally,
evening music, poetry, or drama events are offered. A cozy tea-and-gift shop
with an open fire serves baked goods.
Just west of Dunfanaghy on N56, County Donegal. & 074/913-6540. Admission €4 ($4.80) adults, €2.75
($3.30) seniors and students, €2 ($2.40) children, €10 ($12) families. Mid-Mar to mid-Oct Mon–Fri
10am–5pm, Sat–Sun noon–5pm.
SHOPPING
Ardara is a hub of tweed and woolen production. Most shops are open Monday
to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, with extended hours in summer. Unless otherwise
noted, shops are on the main street of the town (N56).
C. Bonner & Son With 500 hand-knitters throughout County Donegal and
50 weavers in its factory, C. Bonner & Son produces a wide selection of hand-
knit and hand-loomed knitwear, including linen-cotton and colorful sheep-pat-
terned lamb’s-wool sweaters, all for sale here in its factory outlet. Also for sale is
a broad selection of crafts and gifts, including sheepskins, pottery, wildlife water-
colors, wool hangings, linens, crystal, and china. Closed January and February.
Glenties Rd., Ardara, County Donegal & 074/954-1196. Front St., Ardara, County Donegal.
& 074/954-1303.
C. Kennedy & Sons Ltd Established in 1904, this family-owned knitwear
company employs about 500 home workers who hand-knit or hand-loom bainin
sweaters, hats, scarves, and jackets in native Donegal patterns and colors. The
shop also sells turf crafts, pottery, and dolls. Ardara, County Donegal. & 074/954-1106.
Eddie Doherty A hand-weaver with over 40 years experience, Eddie pro-
duces hand-woven material throws, scarves, caps, and shawls in a variety of col-
ors and designs, some of which reflect the colors of the Donegal landscape. The
loom is on display and the weaving is demonstrated to visitors. Ardara, County
Donegal. & 074/954-1304.
John Molloy In the heart of wool and weaving country, this factory shop is
well stocked with hand-knits, homespun fashions, sports jackets, tweed scarves
and rugs, and all types of caps, from kingfisher to ghillie styles. There’s even a
bargain bin. Factory tours and a shop weaving demonstration are available.
Ardara, County Donegal. & 074/954-1133.

BEACHES Some of the most pristine and secluded beaches in Ireland are
along the northern and western coasts of Donegal. There are few such places
anywhere else where you can be so alone on such magnificent expanses of sand.
The only problem is hitting the good weather. There are several popular beaches
on Dawros Head, including Traighmore Strand in Rossbeg, and extensive
beaches in Portnoo and Navan. Magheroarty, near Falcarragh on the northern
coast, has a breathtaking beach, unspoiled by crowds or commercial develop-
ment. The same goes for Tramore beach on the western side of Horn Head near
Dunfanaghy; you have to hike a short distance, but the rewards are miles of
white sand and seclusion. Other secluded and sandy beaches ideal for walking
and jogging include Carrigart, Downings, Marble Hill, and Port na Blagh.
BIRD-WATCHING Horn Head, a nesting site for many species of seabirds,
has the largest nesting population of razorbills in Ireland. Malin Head, at the
end of the Inishowen Peninsula, is the northernmost point on the Irish main-
land and once was the site of a bird observatory; it’s a good site for watching
migrants in late autumn.
FISHING The rivers and lakes in this area produce good catches of salmon,
sea trout, and brown trout, and the coastal waters yield flounder, pollock, and
cod. Fishing expeditions are offered by charter boats, fishing boats, and trawlers.
For details, contact the North Western Regional Fisheries Board, Abbey
Street, Ballina, County Mayo (& 096/22788; fax 096/70543; www.northwest
fisheries.ie or www.cfb.ie).
GOLF One of Ireland’s most challenging golf courses is the Rosapenna Golf
Club, Atlantic Drive, Downings, County Donegal (& 074/915-5301), an 18-
hole championship seaside par-70 links course that was laid out in 1983 by Tom
Morris of St. Andrews. Greens fees are €45 ($54) weekdays, €50 ($60) weekends.
Other 18-hole courses in this part of Donegal are Dunfanaghy Golf Club,
Dunfanaghy, County Donegal (& 074/913-6335), a seaside par-68 course with
greens fees of €28 ($34) weekdays, €33 ($40) weekends; Narin & Portnoo
Golf Club, Narin-Portnoo, County Donegal (& 074/954-5107), a par-69 sea-
side course with greens fees of €30 ($36) weekdays, €35 ($42) weekends; and
Portsalon Golf Club, Portsalon, County Donegal (& 074/915-9459), a seaside
par-69 course with greens fees of €35 ($42) weekdays, €40 ($48) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING Dunfanaghy Stables, Arnold’s Hotel, Dunfanaghy,
County Donegal (& 074/913-6208), specializes in trail riding on the surround-
ing beaches, dunes, and mountain trails. An hour’s ride averages €20 ($24).
WALKING A section of the Ulster Way passes through Donegal between the
towns of Falcarragh to the north and Pettigo to the south, on the border with Fer-
managh. This trail traverses some remote and wild terrain, passing Errigal Moun-
tain and Glenveagh Park before heading south into the Blue Stack Mountains.
There are some incredible walks on Hook Head, signposted off N56 just west
of Dunfanaghy. Follow Hook Head Drive to the concrete lookout point. From
here you can walk out to a ruined castle on the headland and continue south
along a line of impressive quartzite sea cliffs that glitter in the sun as though cov-
ered with a sheet of ice. This is a moderately difficult walk.
The Ards Forest Park is on a peninsula jutting out into Sheep Haven Bay,
about 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) south of Dunfanaghy on N56. The park is mostly
forested and includes an area of dunes along the water. There are signposted
nature trails, and you can buy a guidebook as you enter the park.
WHERE TO STAY
Rathmullan House This is one of the most pleasurable places to stay
in northern Donegal. On the western shores of Lough Swilly, Donegal’s great sea
lake, about .8km (1⁄2 mile) north of town, this secluded, sprawling, white coun-
try mansion is surrounded by colorful rose gardens and mature trees. The mostly
Georgian (ca. 1760) interior features intricate plastered ceilings, crystal chande-
liers, oil paintings, white marble log-burning fireplaces, and an assortment of
antiques and heirlooms collected over the years by owners Bob and Robin
Wheeler. Rooms vary in size, but all are comfortably and attractively furnished.
The most expensive are luxurious, with sitting areas and views of the lake, while
the least expensive are more compact with a garden view. All have orthopedic
beds, and two are wheelchair accessible. The award-winning breakfast buffet is
copious and imaginative. Rathmullan House is more luxurious overall than its
neighbor, the Fort Royal (see below), so try here first.
Lough Swilly, Rathmullan, County Donegal. & 800/223-6510 in the U.S. or 074/915-8188. Fax
074/915-8200. www.rathmullanhouse.com. 32 units. €160–€230 ($193–$277) double. Rates include full
Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (modern country); bar; indoor swimming pool; 2 tennis
courts; steam room; massage treatments; drawing room; library; private beach. In room: TV, hair dryer.
M O D E R AT E
Arnold’s Hotel Right on Sheephaven Bay, this family-run place offers
warm hospitality and great views of the Atlantic and Horn Head. Continuing
the three generations Arnold family tradition, brothers Derek and William act
as desk clerks, porters, waiters, and whatever else needs doing. Rooms are com-
fortable and attractive, if slightly bland. Arnold’s is an ideal base for touring
northwest Donegal and for exploring Glenveagh National Park. Golf, fishing,
and pony trekking can be arranged at the front desk.
Dunfanaghy, County Donegal. & 800/44-UTELL in the U.S. or 074/913-6208. Fax 074/913-6352.
www.arnoldshotel.com. 30 units. €110–€160 ($133–$193) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V.
Closed Nov–Mar 15. Amenities: Restaurant (international). In room: TV.
Fort Royal Hotel Built in 1819, this rambling, three-story country

house owned by the Fletcher family has been a hotel since 1948. It’s set on 7.2
hectares (18 acres) of gardens and woodlands, with a small sandy beach over-
looking the water on the western shore of Lough Swilly, 1.6km (1 mile) north
of the village. Both the public areas and the recently refurbished guest rooms are
decorated in an upscale country style, with traditional furnishings, period pieces,
and oil paintings showing scenes of Donegal. Though not as luxurious as Rath-
mullan House (see above), Fort Royal delivers an extremely comfortable coun-
try-house experience. All but three guest rooms have lake views.
Rathmullan, County Donegal. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 074/915-8100. Fax 074/915-8103.
www.fortroyalhotel.com. 15 units. €150–€180 ($181–$217) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, V.
Closed Nov–Easter. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; lounge; golf course; tennis court. In room: TV.
Ostán Na Rosann/Hotel of the Rosses Value On a hill overlooking the

Atlantic, this modern ranch-style hotel sits in a scenic Gaelic-speaking area in
the heart of the Rosses overlooking Dungloe Bay. The guest rooms have wide-
windowed sea views and comfortable, standard furnishings. Quite frankly, the
public rooms and guest rooms are nothing special, but the leisure center and sea
views make it very good value. A popular hotel with Irish families, it has a very
lively bar in the evenings.
Dungloe, County Donegal. & 074/952-2444. Fax 074/952-2400. 48 units. €114–€126 ($137–$152) dou-
ble. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); lounge; indoor swimming
pool; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Rosapenna Golf Hotel Surrounded by Sheephaven Bay and the hills of

Donegal, this contemporary two-story hotel is a favorite with golfers, who flock
here to enjoy the hotel’s 18-hole links course. Nongolfers come for the scenery,
the seclusion (280 hectares’/700 acres’ worth), and the hotel’s proximity to
northern Donegal attractions. The guest rooms, dining area, and lounges enjoy
panoramic views of land and sea.
Atlantic Dr., Downings, County Donegal. & 074/915-5301. Fax 074/915-5128. www.rosapenna.ie. 53 units.
€160–€180 ($193–$217) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed late Oct to mid-Mar. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant (international); bar; indoor swimming pool; 18-hole golf course; 2 tennis courts. In room: TV.
Croaghross This terrific house, set on a hill overlooking Lough Swilly, has
been penned into many a budget traveler’s journal. It’s the kind of modest place
that strikes an endearing, nostalgic chord, for everything is done here with the
attention and care of a doting grandmother. Guest rooms are very comfortable, the
setting divine, and breakfasts legendary. Kay Deane’s sophisticated dinnertime
meals are a fabulous, soulful, perfect end to a windblown Donegal day. There’s also
a three-bedroom cottage available for €475 to €650 ($572–$783) per week.
Portsalon, Letterkenny, County Donegal. &/fax 074/915-9548. www.croaghross.com. 5 units. €100 ($120)
double. Rates include full breakfast and tax. Mon–Thurs 2-course dinner €20 ($24); Fri–Sat 4-course dinner
€28 ($33). AE, MC, V. Closed Oct–Mar 18. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms; sitting room. In room: No phone.
Donegal Thatched Cottages This cluster of cottages has a spectacular
situation on Cruit Island, an enchanting landscape of rock and sand just off the
Donegal coast near Dungloe. Accessible by a small bridge, Cruit is a narrow spit
of land reaching into the Atlantic, dwarfed by its nearby neighbors Aranmore
and Owey islands. The cottages are on the Atlantic side, which alternates rocky
headlands with unspoiled beaches; on the lee side is a lovely quiet beach that
extends for miles. The view west toward Owey Island is captivating, and sunsets
are notoriously glorious. There’s a great seaside walk along the western side of
the island, which takes in a series of lovely half-moon beaches.
Each cottage is built according to a traditional plan, resembling many of the
rural homes you’re sure to have seen while exploring the region. The interiors are
simple and appealing, with wooden and tiled floors, high ceilings in the living/
dining rooms, and a great loft bedroom on the second floor. The kitchen comes
equipped with a dishwasher and a washer and dryer for your laundry, and there’s
a master bedroom with its own private bathroom. Each cottage has three bed-
rooms and can sleep up to seven guests. Although the location is somewhat
remote, there are a number of pubs and restaurants within a short driving distance.
Cruit Island, c/o Conor and Mary Ward, Rosses Point, County Sligo. Signposted opposite Viking House Hotel
on Kincasslagh Rd., 9.5km (6 miles) north of Dungloe, Cruit Island. & 071/917-7197. Fax 071/917-7500.
www.donegalthatchedcottages.com. 10 cottages. €325–€950 ($392–$1,145) per cottage per week. Week-

end discounts available. MC, V. Amenities: Washer/dryer. In room: TV, kitchen with dishwasher, no phone.
Termon House Finds This wonderfully remote seaside property has a

somewhat sad former life as a land agent’s home during the Great Famine of the
1800s. The setting is spectacular, directly on a beach, and within walking dis-
tance of a small shop and fine pub in the wee village of Maghery. It’s run by the
Irish Landmark Trust, a nonprofit organization that restores neglected, historic
properties and then rents them out to holidaymakers at a modest rate. The
house sleeps seven people upstairs in three handsome bedrooms (two doubles,
one triple); downstairs there is a sitting room (with a sofa bed), a parlor, and a
wonderful country-style kitchen with a Stanley range, painted sideboards, and a
big farmhouse table that seats eight people. The entire house is full of bygone
treasures—sturdy mahogany furnishings, brass beds, oversize sofas and arm-
chairs, stone fireplaces, wide-plank floors, and deep windowsills with cushioned
seats that are perfect for relaxing with a book. As is true in all ILT properties,
there’s no TV.
Termon House, Maghery (near Dungloe), County Donegal. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust & 01/670-4733.
Fax 01/670-4887. www.irishlandmark.com. €350 ($422) for 4 nights in low season, sliding up to €925
($1,115) per week in high season. In room: Kitchen, dishwasher, washing machine.
WHERE TO DINE
The Mill Restaurant INTERNATIONAL This buzzy place is
deservedly one of the hottest destination restaurants in this part of Donegal. The
draw is Derek Alcorn’s cooking, which confidently manages to simultaneously
be both adventurous and restrained. It’s all about pairing ingredients to achieve
disarming results. The Doe Castle mussels with Smithwick ale and sage is sur-
prising and terrific, as is the lime-and-coriander couscous paired with mush-
room-and-eggplant moussaka. Desserts are simple and elegant, and the wine list
is well chosen.
Figart (.8km/1⁄2 mile past village of Dunfanaghy, beside lake), County Donegal. & 074/913-6985. Reserva-
tions recommended for dinner. Fixed-price dinner €34 ($41). Dinner main courses €18–€26 ($22–$32). MC,
V. Tues–Sat 7–9pm; Sun 12:30–2pm and 7–9pm.
Water’s Edge INTERNATIONAL As its name implies, this restaurant is

on the edge of picturesque Lough Swilly, on the south end of town. Although a
glassy facade on three sides gives the 70-seat dining area a modern look, the inte-
rior is quite traditional, with beamed ceilings, an open fireplace, nautical bric-a-
brac, and watercolors of Donegal landscapes. The menu blends Irish dishes with
such international favorites as wild salmon in brandy-bisque sauce, chicken
Kiev, prawns Provençal, and steaks. Bar food, served all day, ranges from soups
and sandwiches to pâtés, scampi, and fish and chips. Rooms with a view and
breakfast are available for €60 ($75) double.
The Ballyboe, Rathmullan, County Donegal. & 074/915-8182. Reservations recommended for dinner. Din-
ner main courses €16–€25 ($19–$30). MC, V. Easter–Sept daily noon–10pm; Oct–Easter daily 6:30–10pm.
PUBS
Almost all the pubs in this Irish-speaking area provide spontaneous sessions of
Irish traditional music in summer. Two places especially renowned for music are
the Lakeside Centre, Dunlewey (& 074/953-1699), and Leo’s Tavern ,
Meenaleck, Crolly (& 074/954-8143). The highly successful Irish group Clan-
nad and the vocalist Enya (all part of the talented Brennan family) got their
starts at Leo’s.
The don’t-miss pub in Ardara is Nancy’s (& 074/954-1187) on Front

Street, which has to be one of the smallest pubs in Ireland. It’s an old Victorian
house with the pub in the sitting room. As the crowd pours in, other rooms
open up in hospitality.
6 The Inishowen Peninsula

Buncrana, the peninsula’s chief town, is 113km (70 miles) NE of Donegal Airport, 84km (52 miles) NE of
Donegal Town, 19km (12 miles) NW of Derry, 145km (90 miles) NE of Sligo, 359km (223 miles) NE of Shan-
non, and 259km (161 miles) NW of Dublin
This long, broad finger of land stretching north to the Atlantic between Lough
Swilly to the west and Lough Foyle to the east is Ireland’s northernmost point.
It is arguably the most beautiful area in all of Ireland. Along the shores of both
loughs and the Atlantic Ocean, long stretches of sandy beaches are backed by
sheer cliffs. Inland are some of Ireland’s most impressive mountains, with the
615m (2,019-ft.) Slieve Snacht dominating the center of the peninsula. Its her-
itage reaches back beyond recorded history, with relics of those distant days scat-
tered across its face.
The Inishowen gets its name from Eoghain, a son of King Niall of the Nine
Hostages, who lived at the time of St. Patrick in the 5th century. The king
named this amazing finger of land for his son—Inis Eoghain means “the island
of Owen.”
To drive around the Inishowen is to traverse a ring of seascapes, mountains,
valleys, and woodlands. It’s been said that Donegal is a miniature Ireland; Done-
gal folk claim that Inishowen is a miniature Donegal.
Relatively undiscovered by most visitors to Ireland, Inishowen is a world
apart, where present-day residents revere their ancient heritage, treasure the leg-
ends and antiquities of this remote region, and still observe many traditions of
their ancestors. Traditional music and dance thrive here, and it’s unlikely you’ll
face an evening when there’s not a music session in a nearby pub. No place this
spectacularly beautiful and unspoiled goes unappreciated for its splendors for-
ever; just go before everyone else discovers it.
INISHOWEN PENINSULA ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND North West Busways
(& 074/918-2619) offers service between Letterkenny and Moville, via Car-
donagh and Buncrana, and there’s daily Dublin-Inishowen service on offer by
John McGinley (& 074/913-5201).
The best way to get to and around the Inishowen Peninsula is by car, follow-
ing the signposted 161km (100-mile) Inishowen route.
Reddan, Temple Street, Sligo (& 071/916-1201; www.northwestireland.
travel.ie); the Letterkenny Tourist Office, Derry Road, Letterkenny (& 074/
912-1173); or the Inishowen Tourism Society, Chapel Street, Cardonagh,
County Donegal (& 074/937-4933; www.visitinishowen.com). All three are open
year-round Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm, with extended summer hours.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
In spite of its remote location, the Inishowen Peninsula circuit is one of the best-
marked roads in Ireland, with all directions clearly printed in English and Irish,
miles and kilometers. Among the many features of this 161km (100-mile) route
(which runs from Letterkenny to Moville) is a string of beach resorts like
THE INISHOWEN PENINSULA 469
Ballyliffin, Buncrana, Greencastle, and Moville. Natural wonders include the

Gap of Mamore, 8km (5 miles) north of Buncrana, a pass rising to 240m (800
ft.) and then slowly descending on a corkscrew path to sea level, and Slieve
Snacht, a 606m (2,019-ft.) mountain.
The peninsula’s most impressive historic monument is the hilltop fort known
as Grianan of Aileach, 16km (10 miles) south of Buncrana. One of the best
examples of a ring fort in Ireland, it was built as a temple of the sun around 1700
B.C. From the mid–5th century to the early 12th, it was the royal residence of
the O’Neills, the kings of this area.
After you’ve toured the Inishowen, or perhaps stayed a few days, head south
through Letterkenny (pop. 5,000). The largest town in the county, it’s on a hill-
side overlooking the River Swilly. There you can pick up N56, the main road,
and drive to the twin towns of Ballybofey and Stranorlar. Change here to N15,
which takes you to yet another scenic Donegal drive, the Barnesmore Gap, a
vast open stretch through the Blue Stack Mountains, which leads you into
Donegal Town and points south.
Fort Dunree Military Museum Perched on a cliff overlooking Lough
Swilly, Fort Dunree is a military and naval museum incorporating a Napoleonic
Martello tower at the site of World War I defenses on the north Irish coast. It
features a wide range of exhibitions, an audiovisual center, and a cafeteria housed
in a restored forge. Even if you have no interest in military history, it’s worth a
trip for the view. Dunree has one of Donegal’s best vantage points for observing
unencumbered seascapes and broad mountain vistas.
Signposted on the coast road north of Buncrana, County Donegal. & 074/936-1817 or 074/932-1173.
Admission €4 ($4.60) adults, €2 ($2.30) seniors and children. June–Sept Tues–Sat 10:30am–6pm, Sun
12:30–8pm; Oct–May Tues–Sat 10:30am–4:30pm.
Greencastle Maritime Museum and Planetarium This compact mari-

time museum, in the harbor home of one of the busiest fishing fleets in Ireland,
is housed in the old 1857 coast-guard station. Before you go in, be sure to take
in the grand views of Lough Foyle, as well as the monument to those lost in
nearby waters. The museum’s modest, intriguing exhibits focus on the everyday
struggles as well as the historic events beyond Greencastle Harbour, from
Armada wrecks to famine-period emigration to the heroism of the Irish lifeboat-
rescue teams. In addition, there’s a Mesolithic exhibit with local 8,000-year-old
finds. A small coffee, craft, and souvenir shop is also at hand. Best of all, Maire
McCann’s stories bring the museum’s exhibits to life. A planetarium, built in
2000, has three shows daily: Call ahead to confirm times.
Harbour, Greencastle, County Donegal. & 074/938-1363. Admission to museum €4 ($4.80) adults, €2
($2.40) seniors and students, €10 ($12) families. Admission to planetarium €4 ($4.80) adults, €2 ($2.40)
seniors and students, €10 ($12) families. Easter–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun noon–6pm; Nov–Easter
Mon–Fri 10am–5pm.

BEACHES Ballyliffin, Buncrana, Greencastle, and Moville have safe, sandy
beaches that are ideal for swimming or walking.
GOLF Donegal’s northern coast is believed to be one of the first places where
golf was played in Ireland, and it’s been played on the Inishowen Peninsula for
more than 100 years.
The Inishowen has four 18-hole golf courses. Two are at the Ballyliffin Golf
Club, Ballyliffin, County Donegal (& 074/937-6119; www.ballyliffingolfclub.
com), the northernmost golf club in Ireland. The first, the “Old Links” is a
par-71 course with greens fees of €45 ($54) weekdays, €50 ($60) weekends. The
“New Links” course costs €60 ($75) weekdays, €70 ($85) weekends. The North
West Golf Club, Fahan, Buncrana, County Donegal (& 074/936-1027),
founded in 1890, is a par-69 seaside course with greens fees of €25 ($30) week-
days, €30 ($36) weekends. Greencastle Golf Course, Greencastle, County
Donegal (& 074/938-1013), is a par-69 parkland course with greens fees of €25
($30) weekdays, €35 ($42) weekends.
WATERSPORTS The Inishowen’s long coastline, sandy beaches, and combina-
tion of open ocean and sheltered coves offer great opportunities for watersports.
The northwest coast presents some of the most challenging surfing conditions in
the world. For advice and specific information, contact the Irish Surfing Associ-
ation, Tirchonaill Street, Donegal (& 074/972-1053; www.isasurf.ie).
WHERE TO STAY
Redcastle Hotel Right on the shores of Lough Foyle on the Inishowen’s
eastern coast, this country-inn-style hotel recently underwent a major renova-
tion that doubled the number of rooms and gave the place a more luxurious feel.
But it still offers a combination of old-world charm and modern comforts. The
guest rooms are done up in designer fabrics, and each has a view of the lake or
the adjacent golf course. If you’re interested in using the Redcastle as a base, ask
about their multiple-night deals.
Redcastle, Moville, County Donegal. & 074/938-2073. Fax 074/938-2214. www.redcastlehotel.com. 71
units. €150–€200 ($181–$240) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants
(international, cafe); bar; 9-hole golf course; tennis court; gym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room. In room: TV,
M O D E R AT E
Mount Errigal South of Lough Swilly and less than .8km (1 mile) east of
Letterkenny, this contemporary two-story hotel is a handy place to stay. It’s
midway between the Inishowen Peninsula and Donegal Town, within 32km (20
miles) of Glenveagh National Park. Although it has a rather ordinary gray
facade, the inside is bright and airy, with skylights, light woods, hanging plants,
colored and etched glass, and brass fixtures. The guest rooms are outfitted in
contemporary style, with cheerful colors and modern art, and good reading
lights over the beds.
Derry Rd., Ballyraine, Letterkenny, County Donegal. & 074/9122700. Fax 074/9125085. www.mount
errigal.com. 82 units. €130 ($157) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restau-
rants (international, cafe); bar; indoor swimming pool; gym; sauna/steam room; massage treatments. In room:
INEXPENSIVE
Brooklyn Cottage Value You’re not going to find a nicer lakeside B&B
for this price. Only tall panes of glass separate the living room of Brooklyn Cot-
tage from the lapping waves. This modern bungalow is right on the brink of the
Inishowen peninsula, and guests eat breakfast in a conservatory that takes advan-
tage of a spectacular sea view (as do the living room and two of the guest rooms).
A small coastal path skirts the rocky shore in front of the house, and it’s possi-
ble to follow it to the neighboring town of Moville, about 3.2km (2 miles) away.
The guest rooms are small, but each is meticulously kept. Peter Smith, who
serves as host along with his wife, Gladys, is involved with the nearby Maritime
museum and shares his knowledge of the area with guests. Brooklyn Cottage is
THE INISHOWEN PENINSULA 471
within walking distance of the center of Greencastle, yet occupies a seemingly

remote site just beyond the port.
Greencastle, Inishowen, County Donegal. & 074/938-1087. 3 units (2 with shower only, no tub). €60 ($75)
double. Rates include breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Jan–Feb. Amenities: Living room. In room: Tea/cof-
feemaker, no phone.
The Strand On a hillside overlooking Pollen Strand, with views of nearby

Malin Head, this small family-run hotel is on the edge of town, set apart in its
own palm-tree-lined rose gardens. The decor throughout the hotel is contem-
porary Irish, with wide windows and traditional touches. Guest rooms are
attractively, though not imaginatively, appointed with beech furnishings, pat-
terned carpeting, and neutral fabrics. Bathrooms are modern but smallish. Still,
if you’re looking for a slightly old-style family hotel, it’s hard to beat the price.
The bar is known for its local entertainment.
Ballyliffin, Clonmany, County Donegal. & 074/937-6107. Fax 074/937-6486. www.ballyliffin.com/
strand/location.htm. 21 units. €65–€85 ($78–$102) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant (international); bar. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Ballyliffin Self Catering Ballyliffin is a tiny seaside village on the west
coast of Inishowen, with two golf courses in close proximity. This group of cot-
tages is situated along the main road through town, a 10-minute walk from the
fine sand and clear waters of Pollan Bay. The six connected cottages are all built in
stone and pine, with lofty vaulted ceilings in the living rooms and massive central
fireplaces, which the stairs circle on their way to the second floor. Each cottage has
three bedrooms and two bathrooms—two of the bedrooms have a double bed and
an attached bathroom, while the third bedroom has three single beds. In some cot-
tages, second-floor bedrooms overlook the living room, where a foldout couch
provides yet more sleeping space. The well-equipped kitchen includes a
microwave, an electric stove, a dishwasher, and a washing machine and dryer.
Rossaor House, Ballyliffin, County Donegal. &/fax 074/937-6498. 6 cottages. €475–€695 ($572–$837)
per week. Rates include oil-fired heat and electricity. MC, V. Amenities: Washer/dryer. In room: TV, kitchen
w/dishwasher and microwave, no phone.
WHERE TO DINE
The Corncrake MODERN CONTINENTAL A restaurant like the
Corncrake is as rare as the endangered bird from which it takes its name. The
setup is “dead simple,” as the Irish like to say—just one room and two talented
women at the helm. The freshest of ingredients are sought out by Brid McCart-
ney and Noreen Lynch and then transformed using a selection of herbs grown
in their own gardens in a way that is nothing short of sublime. Starters include
a prawn chowder where lemon and fresh coriander bring out the flavor of locally
caught fish, and a cheese soufflé whose golden crown topples to reveal a velvet-
textured filling of egg, cream, and sharp cheddar. Meat and fish dishes are cou-
pled with sauces and seasonings so masterful that they seem to give lamb a new
tenderness and monkfish an unanticipated delicacy. Vegetarians need to book a
day in advance but will be rewarded by something downright delectable, such as
goat cheese wrapped in red peppers. Desserts range from a wholesome goose-
berry fool to a blissful orange and Grand Marnier panna cotta (an Italian dessert
made with cream and eggs).
Malin St., Carndonagh, County Donegal. & 074/937-4534. Reservations recommended. Dinner main
courses €17–€21 ($20–$24). No credit cards. Mar–June Sat–Sun 6–9pm; June–Sept daily 6–9pm; Oct–Dec
Sat–Sun 6–9pm. Closed Jan–Feb and St. Patrick’s Day.
Kealy’s Seafood Bar SEAFOOD Right across the road from the pier
in Greencastle, Tricia Kealy’s always-buzzing little fish house is a terrific place to
know about. Tricia knows what to pair with just-off-the-boat fish—poached
hake in saffron sauce, plaice in anchovy butter, cod with Stilton—which makes
dining here a surprisingly refined experience. If you prefer, sidle up to the bar
for an afternoon bite, and you can have a simple bowl of chowder or smoked
salmon on brown bread. Locals claim the fish is so fresh, it’s reeled onto your
plate. This is food of the people, by the people, and for the people, and you can
taste the difference.
Greencastle, County Donegal. & 074/938-1010. Reservations recommended for dinner. Fixed-price dinner
€35 ($42); dinner main courses €23–€50 ($28–$60). MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7–9:30pm; bar snacks
3–5pm. Closed Mon–Wed in off season (usually Oct–Easter).
St. John’s Country House and Restaurant CONTINENTAL On its

own grounds overlooking Lough Swilly, this lovely Georgian house has two
cozily elegant dining rooms. Open turf fireplaces, Waterford crystal, embroi-
dered linens, and richly textured wallpaper add to the ambience. Importantly,
the food is dependably good—baked Swilly salmon with lemon sauce, roast
duck with port-and-orange sauce, spiced lamb en croûte with gooseberry-and-
mint sauce, and John Dory with fennel. B&B is available for €110 to €190
($133–$229) double.
Fahan, County Donegal. & 074/936-0289. Fax 074/936-0612. Reservations required. Fixed-price 6-course
dinner €38 ($46). AE, DC, MC, V. Mar–Sept Tues–Sat 6–10pm.
14
The Midlands: Along
the River Shannon
N o matter where in the midlands
you find yourself, you’re never far
commerce, Ireland’s most ancient
highway; more recently, it’s chiefly
from the River Shannon. It is Ireland’s been a source of enjoyment and recre-
fluid, winding spine, dividing east ation.
from west, flowing through lowland The river can be divided into three
fields and bogs, and communing with segments: the Lower Shannon and
countless lakes and lesser rivers. The Lough Derg, stretching from Kil-
Shannon is the constant by which you laloe, County Clare, to Portumna,
should take your bearings in Ireland’s County Galway; the Middle Shan-
heartland. non, a narrow passage from the
At 371km (230 miles), the Shan- Birr/Banagher area in County Offaly
non is the longest river in Ireland and to Athlone, Westmeath; and the
Great Britain. It influences and Upper Shannon, from Westmeath’s
defines more of the Irish landscape Lough Ree to Leitrim’s Lough Allen
than any other body of water. Rising and on to the river’s source in County
in County Cavan, it flows south Cavan. In this chapter, we’ll explore
through the heartland of Ireland, the river from south to north. This is
touching nine other counties— not to imply that the river flows in
Leitrim, Roscommon, Longford, that direction; rather, it’s to help you
Westmeath, Offaly, Galway, Tipper- start touring in the area that has the
ary, Clare, and Limerick—before most to do and see.
reaching its mouth and separating While it’s unlikely that you will fol-
counties Kerry and Clare as the Shan- low the Shannon for all of its 345 nav-
non estuary waters meet the Atlantic. igable kilometers (214 miles), you’ll
The Shannon takes many shapes encounter it in almost every cross-
and forms as it flows. At some points, country route you take. So, whether
it’s almost 16km (10 miles) across; at you trace or cross its path, it makes
others, it narrows to a few hundred sense here to point out some of the
yards. For centuries, the river was pri- many delights to be found along and
marily a means of transportation and near the Shannon’s shores.
1 Lower Shannon: The Lough Derg Drive

Killaloe is 26km (16 miles) NE of Limerick and 40km (25 miles) E of Ennis; Portumna is 65km (40 miles) SE of
Galway and 44km (27 miles) E of Gort
The Lower Shannon, stretching from Killaloe, County Clare, north to Por-
tumna, County Galway, encompasses one huge lake, Lough Derg. Often called
an inland sea, Lough Derg was the main inland waterway trading route between
Dublin and Limerick when canal and river commercial traffic was at its height
474 CHAPTER 14 . THE MIDLANDS: ALONG THE RIVER SHANNON
in Ireland in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is the Shannon River’s largest lake
and widest point: 40km (25 miles) long and almost 16km (10 miles) wide, with
more than 10,000 hectares (25,000 acres) of water. Today Lough Derg can be
described as Ireland’s premier pleasure lake because of all the recreational and
sporting opportunities it provides.
AREA ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND The best way to get to the
Lough Derg area is by car or boat. Although there is limited public transporta-
tion in the area, you will need a car to get around the lake. Major roads that lead
to Lough Derg are the main Limerick-Dublin road (N7) from points east and
south, N6 and N65 from Galway and the west, and N52 from the north. The
Lough Derg Drive, which is well signposted, is a combination of R352 on the
west bank of the lake and R493, R494, and R495 on the east bank.
VISITOR INFORMATION Because Lough Derg unites three counties
(Clare, Galway, and Tipperary), there are several sources of information about
the area. They include the Shannon Development Tourism Group, Shannon,
County Clare (& 061/361555; www.shannonregiontourism.ie); Ireland West
Tourism, Foster Street, Galway (& 091/537700; www.westireland.travel.ie);
and Tipperary Lake Side & Development, The Old Church, Mill Street, Bor-
risokane, County Tipperary (& 067/27155). Seasonal information offices
include the Nenagh Tourist Office, Connolly Street, Nenagh, County Tipper-
ary (& 067/31610), open early May to early September; and the Killaloe
Tourist Office, The Lough House, Killaloe, County Clare (& 061/376866),
open May to September.
EXPLORING THE AREA
The road that rims the lake for 153km (95 miles), the Lough Derg Drive, is
one of the most scenic routes in Ireland. It’s a continuous natural setting where
panoramas of hilly farmlands, gentle mountains, bucolic forests, and glistening
waters are unspoiled by commercialization. Most of all, the drive is a collage of
colorful shoreline towns, starting with Killaloe , County Clare, and Ballina,
County Tipperary, on the south banks of the lake. They’re called “twin towns”
because they’re usually treated as one community—only a splendid 13-arch
bridge over the Shannon separates them.
Killaloe is a darling little village and home to Ireland’s largest inland marina
and a host of watersports centers. Of historical note is a 9th-century oratory, said
to have been founded by St. Lua—hence the name Killaloe, which comes from
the Irish Cill (“church”) of Lua.
Nearby is another oratory and cathedral, built in the 12th century and named
for 6th-century St. Flannan; it boasts an exquisite Romanesque doorway. Kin-
cora, on the highest ground at Killaloe, was the royal settlement of Brian Boru
and the other O’Brien kings, but no trace of any building remains. Killaloe is a
lovely town with lakeside views at almost every turn and many fine restaurants
and pubs offering outdoor seating on the shore.
Eight kilometers (5 miles) inland from Lough Derg’s lower southeast shores
is Nenagh, the chief town of north Tipperary. It lies in a fertile valley between
the Silvermine and Arra mountains.
On the north shore of the lake is Portumna, which means “the landing place
of the oak tree.” A major point of traffic across the Shannon, Portumna has a
lovely forest park and a remarkable castle that’s currently being restored.
The River Shannon’s Shores
Sligo Bay 0 10 mi
Lough N
0 10 km
NORTHERN Gill
Area of Detail IRELAND
Ir Swanlinbar
CAVAN
CAVAN
Dublin
on
Lough R200
Ballyconnell
M
S L IGO
SL IGO Allen R207
ou
nta
REPUBLIC OF Butler’s Bridge
ins
IRELAND Lough Drumshanbo
Key
1 E I TR
L EI T R IM
IM 4
Lough 2 Carrick-on- Cavan
Gara Boyle Shannon
Mohill
N5 3
I T R IM
L E IT IM
N55
N61
N4
AYO
M AY
Castlerea Tulsk Strokestown O N G FORD
L ONG FORD
8 R367 7 6 N5
Longford
ROS
R O S C OM
O M MO
MON R395
N60
N63
Castlepollard
Roscommon N55 5
Lough
Ree
Tuam Mullingar
WE
W E STM
S T M E ATH
ATH
Athlone
11
9 Kilbeggan
G A L W AY
GAL AY Ballinasloe
N6 N80
12
Aughrim
Shannonbridge Tullamore
15 10
S li e 13 R357
ve
Au
g Cloghan
Banagher F F ALY
O FF ALY
non N52
ht
an
yM
h
er S
ou
Portumna
Riv
nt
R489
Birr
a in
16 17
s
Lough 14
Woodford Derg Terryglass
R352
Mountshannon R493
Scarriff 20 A
rra
n M Puckane
N7
East Clare
Bodyke 18 tn
19 R494 s. Heritage Centre 18
CLA
C L A RE
RE R495
Nenagh
R463 Holy Island 20
Ballina
Killaloe Athlone Castle 11 Irish Famine Museum 7
Shannon Slievekimalta or Battle of Aughrim Locke’s Distillery 9
Airport Keeper Hill Interpretive
Mouth of the Lough Key Forest Park 2
Shannon
TIPP
T I P P ER
E R AR
ARY Centre 15 Lough Rynn House
Birr Castle 14 & Gardens 3
Limerick Bog Tours 13 Portumna Castle 16
N69
Boyle Abbey 1 Portumna Forest Park 17
Cavan Crystal 4 Raheen Woods 19
Charleville Forest Strokestown
L IM
I M ER
E R ICK
ICK
Castle 10 Park House 6
Clonalis House 8 Tullynally Castle
Clonmacnois 12 & Gardens 5
475
Memorable little towns and harborside villages like Mountshannon and

Dromineer dot the rest of the Lough Derg Drive. Some towns, like Terryglass
and Woodford, are known for atmospheric old pubs where spontaneous ses-
sions of traditional Irish music are likely to occur. Others, like Puckane and
Ballinderry, offer unique crafts or locally made products.
The Lough Derg Drive is the Shannon River at its best.
East Clare Heritage Centre/Holy Island Tours Housed in the restored
10th-century church of St. Cronan (Ireland’s oldest church in continuous use),
this center provides genealogical research and explains the heritage and history of
the East Clare area through a series of exhibits and an audiovisual presentation. A
pier across the road is the starting point for a 15-minute excursion in an eight-seat
boat on Lough Derg to nearby Inishcealtra (Holy Island), one of the most famous
monastic sites in Ireland. Like all monasteries, it was a target of Viking attacks, the
first occurring in A.D. 836. Brian Boru rebuilt the monastery and his brother Mar-
can was abbot there. The trip includes a 30-minute guided tour of the island.
Off the Portumna-Ennis rd. (R352), Tuamgraney, County Clare. Center & 061/921615. Island tours
& 061/921351. www.eastclareheritage.com. Admission to the center €4 ($4.80) adults, €2 ($2.40) seniors
and students, €1.50 ($1.80) children, €10 ($12) families; Holy Island Tours €8 ($9.65) adults, €4 ($4.80)
seniors and children. Center June–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Holy Island Tours June–Sept daily 10am–5pm,
weather permitting.
Portumna Castle Built in 1609 by Earl Richard Burke, this castle on

the northern shores of Lough Derg is said to have been one of the finest 17th-
century manor houses in Ireland. A fire gutted the castle in 1826 but spared its
Dutch-style decorative gables and rows of stone mullioned windows. The castle
is in the process of being restored, with limited access to the public. The gardens
are open and worth a visit as well.
Off N65, Portumna, County Galway. No phone. Admission to castle €2.50 ($3) adults, €1 ($1.20) seniors and
children under 12. Free admission to gardens. Daily 8am–4pm.
Portumna Forest Park On the shores of Lough Derg, this 560-hectare

(1,400-acre) park is east of the town, off the main road. It offers trails and sign-
posted walks, plus viewing points and picnic areas.
Off N65, Portumna, County Galway. & 0905/42365. Free admission. Daily dawn–9pm.
SIGHTSEEING CRUISES
R&B Marine Services Ltd Enjoy a cruise of Lough Derg onboard the 48-seat
Derg Princess, a covered river bus. Departing from Killaloe Marina, the 1-hour
cruise travels past the fort of Brian Boru and into Lough Derg.
Killaloe Marina, Killaloe, County Clare. & 061/375011. Cruise €8 ($9.65) adults, €5 ($6) children, €22
($27) families. May–Sept Sunday 3:15pm or by arrangement.
Shannon Sailing Ltd. This company operates a covered 53-seat water bus
called the Ku-ee-tu. It sails from the southeastern shore of Lough Derg at Drom-
ineer on a 11⁄2-hour cruise with full commentary on local sights.
New Harbour, Dromineer, Nenagh, County Tipperary. & 067/24499. Cruise €8 ($9.65) adults, €5 ($6) chil-
dren, €22 ($27) families. May–Sept daily; schedule varies.
SHOPPING
Eugene & Anke McKernan A husband-and-wife team, Eugene and Anke
offer a colorful array of distinctive tweed scarves, jackets, vests, and blankets.
The couple hand-weaves all items on the premises, which were formerly police
barracks. Visitors are welcome to visit the workshop and observe the weaving
LOWER SHANNON: THE LOUGH DERG DRIVE 477
process. Open daily 10am to 7pm from May through September; hours vary
October to April. Handweavers, Main St., Tuamgraney, County Clare. & 061/921527.
Old Church Craft Shop & Gallery Built on the site of the original abbey of
St. Columba (A.D. 549), this stone-faced building dates from 1838. Transformed
into a craft shop in 1984, it is a treasure trove of locally produced crafts and
products. You might see Terryglass pottery, Rathbone traditional beeswax can-
dles, Irish bonsai plants, bog oak pendants, wildlife mobiles, boxwood products
from Birr Castle, Jerpoint glass, decorated horseshoes, miniature watercolors of
Shannon River scenes, and books about the Shannon. The gallery has water-
colors by artist-owner Jenny Boelens on permanent display. Open Easter to
October Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm, and Sunday from noon
to 6pm. The Old Church, R493, Terryglass, County Tipperary. & 067/22209.
Puckane Crafts A rustic thatched-roof cottage, complete with a traditional
half-door (the top and bottom open and close separately), serves as the shop of
Adele Starr. Her artisanal wares depict Ireland past and present, with Celtic and
rural scenes and pieces with heraldic and religious themes. She stocks Jerpoint
glass as well a works by potter Nicholas Mosse, designs by Louise Kennedy, and
the wood-turner Paddy Mulholland. The crafts are ingenious and truly Irish,
and they make great souvenirs. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm.
R493, Puckane, Nenagh, County Tipperary. & 067/24229. www.puckanecrafts.com.
BOATING & OTHER WATERSPORTS

Watersports are the pièce de résistance of a visit to Lough Derg. If you enjoy
boating, tubing, water-skiing, windsurfing, canoeing, or other watersports, this
is the place for you.
Below we’ve listed a few of the businesses that specialize in these activities. In
addition, the following companies also rent cabin cruisers along this section
of the Shannon: Emerald Star Line, The Marina, Portumna, County Galway
(& 090/974-1120; www.emeraldstar.ie); Shannon Castle Line, The Marina,
Williamstown, County Clare (& 061/927042; www.shannoncastleline.com);
and Shannon Sailing, New Harbour, County Tipperary (& 067/24499;
www.shannonsailing.com). The crafts range from two to eight berths; rates aver-
age €180 to €330 ($217–$398) per person per week.
Lough Derg Sailing With its still waters and numerous bays, islands, and har-
bors, Lough Derg is ideal for sailing. This company offers daily sailing trips on the
8.7m (29-ft.) yacht Sangazure, with instruction and training onboard. The activi-
ties are especially geared toward beginners who want to learn the basics of sailing.
Mountshannon Harbour, Mountshannon, County Clare. & 061/927131. Cruise €50 ($60) per day; hourly
rates available. May–Sept daily by appointment.
Whelan’s Boat Hire Whelan’s rents 5.7m (19-ft.) lake boats with outboard
engines for sightseeing or fishing in the waters of Lough Derg. Prices include
fuel, fishing gear, life jackets, and rainwear. In the summer, Whelan’s offers an
hourly river tour that provides lots of local history and lore.
At the bridge, Killaloe, County Clare. & 061/376159. Boat rental €15 ($18) 1st hr., €10 ($12) each addi-
tional hr.; €40–€50 ($48–$60) per day. Daily 10am–9pm.
OTHER SPORTS & OUTDOOR PURSUITS

FISHING An angler’s paradise, Lough Derg has good stocks of brown trout,
pike, bream, and perch. Fish weighing 36 to 90 pounds have been caught here.
Brown trout average 1 to 6 pounds. For tackle and guidance on local fishing,
visit Whelan’s, Summerhill, Nenagh, County Tipperary (& 067/31301).
GOLF Lovely parkland and woodland golfing in the Lough Derg area is
offered at 18-hole clubs such as Portumna Golf Club, Portumna, County Gal-
way (& 090/974-1059), with greens fees of €25 ($30) weekdays, €30 ($36)
weekends; and Nenagh Golf Club, Beechwood, Nenagh (& 067/31476), with
greens fees of €25 ($30) weekdays, €30 ($36) weekends. The East Clare Golf
Club, Scariff/Killaloe Road, Bodyke, County Clare (& 061/921322), is an 18-
hole championship course. Greens fees are €25 ($30) weekdays, €30 ($36)
weekends.
SWIMMING Lough Derg is known for clear, unpolluted water that’s ideal
for swimming, particularly at Castle Lough, Dromineer, and Portumna Bay.
Portumna Bay has changing rooms and showers.
WALKING There are some excellent walks in Portumna Forest Park, in
Raheen Woods, and along the shoreline of Lough Derg. For a touch of scenic
wilderness, walk a portion of the Slieve Bloom Way, a circular 34km (21-mile)
signposted trail that begins and ends in Glenbarrow, County Laois.
WHERE TO STAY
M O D E R AT E
Dromineer Bay Hotel Tucked along the shores of Lough Derg beside the
Dromineer Yacht Club, this recently expanded two-story hotel, long a favorite
with anglers, now also appeals to anyone looking for an informal riverside
retreat. More than 100 years old, it was originally a coast-guard inn. The rooms
are small and simply furnished, although some have four-poster beds and
antiques. For a little local color and history, look at the bar walls; they’re deco-
rated with photographs of the hotel and the village.
Dromineer Bay, Nenagh, County Tipperary. & 067/24114. Fax 067/24444. 24 units. €100–€120
($120–$145) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar. In
Lakeside Hotel Perched on the southern banks of Lough Derg and shaded
by ancient trees, this two-story country-house-style hotel has one of the loveliest
settings of any property in the area. The guest rooms have standard furnishings
but are greatly enhanced by wide-windowed views of the lake or gardens. The
hotel is on the Ballina side of the bridge, on the edge of town next to the marina.
Killaloe, County Clare. & 800/447-7462 in the U.S. or 061/376122. Fax 061/376431. 46 units. €140 ($169)
double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; indoor swimming
pool; tennis court; gym; Jacuzzi; steam room; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV.
Roundwood House Finds Roundwood House offers a put-up-your-feet

casual elegance equaled by few other guesthouses. The Kennan family’s warmth
and taste pervade the splendid, perfectly proportioned 18th-century Palladian
country villa, set in 7.2 hectares (18 acres) of secluded woods, pasture, and gar-
dens. Roundwood breathes relaxation and leisure, although more active pursuits
are close at hand—particularly the Slieve Bloom Way, a 50km (31-mile) hill
walk through Ireland’s most untrammeled range. The six double guest rooms in

the main house are spacious and decorated with a gifted eye for charm and sim-
plicity. The two on the second floor share a large central play area that’s ideal for
families with children. The “Yellow House,” across the herb garden and court-
yard from the main building, dates from the 17th century and has been taste-
fully restored to offer four delightful double rooms. Roundwood’s soft couches,
firm beds, lovely views, myriad good books, large bathtubs, and exquisite meals
may not inspire an active holiday, but they go a long way toward calming the
soul. FYI: The nearest TV is a good walk away.
4.8km (3 miles) northwest of Mountrath, on R440 toward the Slieve Bloom Mountains, Mountrath, County
Laois. & 0502/32120. Fax 0502/32711. 10 units. €150 ($181) double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. Din-
ner (book by 2pm) €45 ($54). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Croquet; drawing room.
INEXPENSIVE
Lantern House This pleasant, unpretentious guesthouse enjoys wide vis-
tas of Lough Derg. Palm trees grow on the well-tended hilltop grounds. All the
public rooms overlook the Shannon, as do some of the guest rooms. Furnishings
are homey and comfortable. The cozy lounge has a fireplace, and residents can
enjoy a drink at a small bar. The restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” below) is quite
popular among locals. One caveat: Some of the beds are soft enough to prove
challenging for the dorsally afflicted.
9.7km (6 miles) north of Killaloe on the main road, Ogonnelloe, Tuamgraney, County Clare. & 061/923034.
Fax 061/923139. 6 units. €72 ($87) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov–Feb.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); lounge; bar; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV.
S E L F - C AT E R I N G : R E N T- A - C O T TA G E
For an area of such amazing beauty and wide-open spaces, the Lough Derg region
has surprisingly few hotels. In many ways, that’s part of its allure—natural lake
lands and forests unspoiled by condos, hotels, motels, and fast-food joints.
When the “Rent an Irish Cottage” program was pioneered here almost 30
years ago, the idea was simple: Build small rental cottages designed in traditional
style, with exteriors of white stucco, thatched roofs, and half doors. But aside
from the turf fireplaces, all of the interior’s furnishings, plumbing, heating, and
kitchen appliances inside are totally up-to-date. The cottages, built in groups of
eight to 12, are on picturesque sites in remote villages such as Puckane, Terry-
glass, and Whitegate, overlooking or close to Lough Derg’s shores. As there are
no restaurants or bars on-site, you shop in local grocery stores, cook your own
meals, and mix with locals in the area’s pubs at night. In other words, it’s a
chance to become part of the community. Rates range from €230 to €1,300
($277–$1,566) per cottage per week, depending on the size (one to six bed-
rooms) and time of year. Rental rates include bed linens and color TV; towels
and metered electricity are extra.
In recent years, individual owners have built modern cottages with slate or tile
roofs. One of the loveliest cottage settings belongs to Mountshannon, County
Clare, a cluster of 12 pastel-toned one- and two-story cottages on the shores of
Lough Derg at Mountshannon Harbour. Grouped like a private village around
a garden courtyard, the three-bedroom cottages cost €230 to €610
($277–$735) per week, depending on the time of year. Also on the shores of
Lough Derg are 12 cottages in a country village setting in Puckane, County
Tipperary. Rates for two- and three-bedroom cottages cost €230 to €610
($277–$735) per week, depending on season and number of bedrooms.
For more information, contact Rent an Irish Cottage, 51 O’Connell St., Lim-
erick, County Limerick (& 061/411109; fax 061/314821; www.rentacottage.ie).
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
Brocka-on-the-Water INTERNATIONAL A small country lane, sign-
posted off the Lough Derg Drive, leads to this country-house restaurant in a gar-
den setting near the shores of Lough Derg. Rather than seeking waterside views,
people flock here for the Byrne family’s innovative cuisine and warm hospitality.
The atmosphere is one of an intimate family house, and the food is akin to the
best home cooking you’ve ever had. Each table is set with Waterford crystal
lamps, Newbridge silver, hand-embroidered linens, and fresh flowers. The menu
changes nightly, but specialties often include breaded pork with gooseberry-herb
sauce, baked stuffed sole with a sauce of dill and lemon cream, pan-fried sirloin
steak Gaelic-style (flamed in whiskey), and ribbons of chicken breast with gin-
ger root and honey. Many of the dishes are decorated with or incorporate fresh
edible flowers from the garden. To finish, don’t miss the carragin mousse or
farmhouse cheeses from local farms. Service is attentive but unobtrusive.
Kilgarvan Quay, Nenagh, County Tipperary. & 067/22038. Reservations required. Fixed-price dinner €40
($48); main courses €20–€27 ($24–$33). No credit cards. May–Oct Mon–Sat 7–9:30pm.
The Cherry Tree Restaurant Finds MODERN CONTINENTAL

This lovely waterside restaurant in enchanting Killaloe is the destination restau-
rant of the midlands, having scooped a number of prestigious European awards
in the past few years. The dining room is colorful and inviting, and Mark Ander-
son’s cooking is sophisticated, precise, and smart. Everything on the menu
begins with fine local ingredients: Tipperary beef, Comeragh lamb, Castletown-
bere sea mullet, Dinish Island scallops, and so on. Then what’s added––every
hint of cream, every garnish, every side dish––is a well-thought-out complement
to the meal. Seafood is a strong suit: Think hake with crab crust and turbot with
truffle butter sauce. But when influences from afar appear from time to
time––as in the Malaysian Laksa noodles with stir-fried bok-soi, shiitake mush-
rooms, and Thai red-curry sauce––they’re executed with confidence and zeal. A
fabulous treat at the end of a day on the water.
Lakeside, Ballina, Killaloe, County Clare. & 061/375688. Reservations recommended. Main courses
€22–€30 ($27–$36). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 6–10pm.
Goosers SEAFOOD With a thatched roof and bright mustard-colored

exterior, this very popular pub and restaurant sits on the Ballina side of the Shan-
non, looking out at the river and the broad vista of Killaloe. Its two informal
rooms have open fireplaces, stone walls and floors, and beamed ceilings, and its
pub area contains window seats, sugan chairs (traditional wood chairs with twisted
straw rope seats), and lots of nautical and fishing memorabilia. The restaurant has
booth seating and windows that overlook an adjacent garden, and there’s picnic-
table seating outside in good weather. The bar-food menu lists the usual standards,
including such traditional dishes as bacon and cabbage and Irish stew. The restau-
rant menu focuses on seafood—lobster, salmon, sole, and monkfish.
Ballina, County Clare. & 061/376791. Reservations recommended for dinner. Bar food €5–€20 ($6–$24);
dinner main courses €22–€32 ($27–$39). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.
M O D E R AT E
Galloping Hogan’s Restaurant CONTINENTAL In a restored old rail-
way station, this newly renovated restaurant sits beside Lough Derg, overlooking
the water on the Ballina side of the Killaloe bridge. The plant-filled conservatory-
style room has a patio-terrace for fair-weather dining. The menu here includes
rack of lamb and a variety of steaks. Seafood choices might be grilled or poached
scallop of salmon with chive butter sauce; pan-fried black sole on the bone with
nut-brown butter and chopped parsley; or baked cod with roasted peppers, toma-
toes, fresh spinach, and chile oil. Bar food is also available from noon to 10pm.
Ballina, County Clare. & 061/376162. Reservations recommended. Main courses €14–€25 ($17–$27). AE,
MC, V. Daily 6:30–10pm.
Lantern House CONTINENTAL Perched high on a hillside amid palm-

tree-lined gardens just north of Killaloe, this country-house restaurant enjoys
panoramic views of Lough Derg and the verdant hills of the surrounding coun-
tryside. Host Phil Hogan extends a warm welcome, and the candlelit dining
room exudes old-world charm, with a beamed ceiling, wall lanterns, and lace
tablecloths. Menu choices might include poached fresh local salmon, pan-fried
sole, scallops Mornay, or sirloin steak.
Ogonnelloe, County Clare. & 061/923034. Reservations recommended. Main courses €10–€24
($12–$29). AE, MC, V. Mid-Feb to Oct daily 6–9pm. Closed Mon off season.
INEXPENSIVE
Country Choice CAFE Country Choice is just that: Its shelves are brim-
ming with the finest of Irish foodstuffs, from an acclaimed local marmalade to
farmhouse cheeses. Floury loaves of bread are heaped on the counter, and on the
floor, baskets glisten with the clear, green orbs of local gooseberries. This is the
best place to fill up on picnic fixings before heading out to the shores of Lough
Derg. A cafe at the back of the shop is the place to sit with a cup of good coffee
and find out what’s happening locally—it’s a popular gathering place for locals
and visitors. There’s an inexpensive lunch menu, and freshly baked goods are
served in the morning.
25 Kenyon St., Nenagh, County Tipperary. & 067/32596. Lunch main courses €4–€10 ($4.80–$12).
Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; lunch served noon–6pm.
Molly’s Bar and Restaurant CONTINENTAL Next to the Killaloe

bridge, this brightly colored pub and restaurant offers views of Killaloe Harbour
from most of its windows. The informal interior is like that of a comfortable cot-
tage, with beamed ceilings, wall shelves lined with old plates, vintage clocks,
pine and mahogany furnishings, period pictures and prints of the Shannon area,
and a stove fireplace. The menu offers both light fare and full dinner selections,
such as baked Limerick ham with Madeira sauce, Atlantic salmon Hibernian,
and chargrilled steaks. The open-faced fresh crab sandwich on brown bread is
especially delicious. Outdoor seating is available on picnic-style tables. There’s
live music, traditional and modern, Thursday to Sunday evenings, as well as a
disco and sports bar in the basement.
Killaloe/Ballina, County Clare. & 061/376632. Reservations recommended for dinner. All items €6–€20
($7.50–$24). AE, MC, V. Daily 12:30–11:30pm.
PUBS
There are public houses in every town around the Lough Derg route. The pubs
of Terryglass, County Tipperary, on the east shore, and of Woodford, County
Galway, on the west shore, are particularly well known for their lively sessions of
Irish traditional music.
The Derg Inn With three cozy rooms and a beer garden in the courtyard, this
is one of the lake’s best watering holes. It’s worth a visit just to see this pub’s
decor of Tipperary horse pictures, old plates, books, beer posters, vintage
bottles, hanging tankards, and lanterns. However, most people come for the free
traditional music on Wednesday and Sunday evenings. Terryglass, County Tipperary.
& 067/22037.
J. Walsh’s Forest Bar If you’re lucky enough to be here when there’s a tradi-
tional-music session, then sit back and enjoy. One hometown favorite is fiddler
and tin-whistle player Anthony Coen, who is often accompanied by his talented
daughters, Dearbhla, on the flute and tin whistle, and Eimer, on the concertina
and bodhran. Sessions are totally informal and usually unscheduled; if you want
to catch one, you can try asking the barmen or calling the pub in advance. Wood-
ford, County Galway. & 090/974-9012.
Moran’s Overlooking the Woodford River, this place (correct pronunciation
is Mor-ins) is a curiosity—it’s probably the only pub in Ireland where you’ll find
two clerics serving drinks at the bar during the summer. Both Carmelite Order
priests, they are the owner’s sons and spend their vacation time helping out in
the family business—only in Ireland! Woodford, County Galway. & 090/974-9063.
Paddy’s Pub From the harbor, it’s a short walk up a winding lane to this small,
dark pub. A fine display of antiques and nightly traditional music in summer
make it a jewel among Lake Derg’s pubs. Terryglass, County Tipperary. & 067/22147.
2 Middle Shannon: From Birr to Athlone

Birr is 24km (15 miles) E of Portumna; Athlone is 97km (60 miles) E of Galway
The middle section of the Shannon River is where you’ll find one of Ireland’s
greatest historic sites: the early Christian settlement of Clonmacnois, a spot that
has been drawing visitors since the 6th century. This region also includes vast
stretches of bog lands; the inland town of Birr, known for its magnificent and
historic gardens; and Banagher, a river town with a picturesque harbor. In addi-
tion, this stretch of the river curves into Athlone, the largest town on the Shan-
non and a leading inland marina for mooring and hiring boats. Athlone’s other
claim to fame is that it produced Ireland’s most famous operatic tenor, the great
John McCormack.
AREA ESSENTIALS
Middle Shannon area is by car or boat. Although there’s public transportation,
you’ll need a car to get around the riverbanks. Major roads that lead to this area
are the main Galway-Dublin road (N6) from points east and west, N62 from
the south, and N55 and N61 from the north.
VISITOR INFORMATION Information on this area can be obtained from
the Ireland West Tourism Office, Foster Street, Galway (& 091/537700;
www.westireland.travel.ie), and the East Coast & Midlands Tourism Office,
Clonard House, Dublin Road, Mullingar, County Westmeath (& 044/48650).
Both are open Monday to Friday 9am to 5:45pm, plus Saturday during peak
season.
Seasonal tourist information points are open from May or June to September at
signposted sites in Athlone (& 090/649-4630), Ballinasloe (& 090/964-2131),
Birr (& 090/972-0110), and Clonmacnois (& 090/967-4134).
EXPLORING THE AREA
Athlone Castle Built in 1210 for King John of England, this mighty stone
fortress sits on the edge of the Shannon. It played an important part in Athlone’s
M I D D L E S H A N N O N : F R O M B I R R TO AT H L O N E 483
history, first as the seat of the presidents of Connaught and later as the head-
quarters of the governor of Athlone during the first Siege of Athlone in 1690
and the second in 1691. Declared a national monument in 1970, it was recently
restored and adapted for use as a visitor center, museum, gallery, and tearoom.
The exhibition area offers an audiovisual presentation on the Siege of Athlone.
It also contains displays on the castle, the town, the flora and fauna of the Shan-
non region, and the great Irish tenor John McCormack, Athlone’s most honored
son. The castle’s original medieval walls have been preserved, as have two large
cannons dating from the reign of George II and a pair of 10-inch mortars that
were cast in 1856.
Athlone, County Westmeath. & 090/649-2912. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €3 ($3.60) seniors and students,
€1.50 ($1.80) children, €12 ($14) families. May to mid-Oct daily 9:30am–5pm. On the riverbank, signposted
from all directions.
Battle of Aughrim Interpretative Centre Using a high-tech three-

dimensional audiovisual presentation, this center invites visitors to relive the
Battle of Aughrim, on July 12, 1691. On that day, the army of James II of Eng-
land confronted the forces of his son-in-law, William of Orange, and staged the
bloodiest battle in Irish history. The confrontation involved 45,000 soldiers
from eight European countries and cost 9,000 lives, changing the course of Irish
and European history. (For more on the conflict between William and James, see
“Irish History” in Appendix A.) The center, which also houses a bookshop, craft
shop, and cafe, is in Aughrim village, adjacent to the actual Aughrim battlefield,
which is signposted for visitors. Aughrim is on the main Dublin-Galway road,
about 19km (12 miles) west of the Shannonbridge/Clonmacnois area.
Galway-Dublin rd. (N6), Aughrim, near Ballinasloe, County Galway. & 090/967-3939. Admission €3.50
($4.20) adults, €2.50 ($3) seniors and students, €7 ($8.45) families. June–Aug Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun
2–6pm.
Birr Castle Demesne The main attraction of this inland estate 19km
(12 miles) east of the river is its 40-hectare (100-acre) garden. The demesne (or
estate) of the Parsons family, now the earls of Rosse, it’s laid out around a lake
and along the banks of the two adjacent rivers. It contains more than 1,000
species of trees and shrubs, including magnolias, cherry trees, chestnut, and
weeping beech. The box hedges are featured in the Guinness Book of Records as
the tallest in the world, and the hornbeam cloisters are a unique feature. Farther
along the path you may combine a bit of stargazing with the garden stroll—the
grounds also contain an astronomical exhibit, including an 1845 1.8m (6-ft.)
reflecting telescope, then the largest in the world, built by the third earl of Rosse
and recently restored to form as part of the Historic Science Centre. The tele-
scope operates twice daily, at noon and 3pm. During the summer, you can usu-
ally find additional rotating exhibits dealing with the history of Birr Castle and
its residents. The 17th-century castle and residence is not open to the public.
Birr, County Offaly. & 0509/20336. www.birrcastle.com. Admission €12 ($14) adults, €8.50 ($10) students
and seniors, €4.50 ($5.40) children over 5, free for children under 5, €24 ($29) families. V. Daily 9am–6pm.
Take N52 37km (23 miles) southwest of Tullamore.
Bog Train Tours Bog-land discoveries are the focus of this tour in the heart
of the Irish midlands, on the east bank of the Shannon. Visitors board the nar-
row-gauge Clonmacnois and West Offaly Railway for an 8km (5-mile) circular
ride around the Blackwater bog. The commentary explains how the bog land
was formed and became a vital source of fuel. The route includes a firsthand
look at turf cutting, stacking, drying, and close-up views of bog plants and
wildlife. Participants can even take a turn at digging the turf or picking some
bog cotton. The ride lasts approximately 45 minutes. The visitor center also
offers an audiovisual story about the bog. For groups who make advance
arrangements, a 2- to 4-hour nature trail and field-study tour is available.
Bord na Mona/The Irish Peat Board, Blackwater Works, Shannonbridge, County Offaly. & 090/967-4114.
Tours €6 ($7.50) adults, €5 ($6) seniors and students, €4 ($4.80) children, €19 ($23) families. Apr–Oct daily
10am–5pm; tours on the hour. Signposted from Shannonbridge.
Charleville Forest Castle Designed in 1798 by Francis Johnston, one

of Ireland’s foremost architects, this castle took 12 years to build and was the
first of the great Gothic houses. Today it’s considered one of the best of the early-
19th-century castles still standing in Ireland. The castle has a fine limestone
exterior, with fanciful towers, turrets, and battlements. The rooms have spectac-
ular ceilings and plasterwork and great hand-carved stairways, as well as secret
passageways and dungeons. Admission includes a guided tour.
Off N52/Birr rd., Tullamore, County Offaly. & 0506/41581. Guided tour €4.50 ($5.40) adults, €2.50 ($3)
children. Apr–May Sat–Sun 2–5pm; June–Sept Tues–Sun 11am–5pm.
Clonmacnois Resting silently on the east bank of the Shannon, this is

one of Ireland’s most profound ancient sites. St. Ciaran founded the monastic
community of Clonmacnois in 548 at the crucial intersection of the Shannon
and the Dublin-Galway land route, and it soon became one of Europe’s great
centers of learning and culture. For nearly 1,000 years, Clonmacnois flourished
under the patronage of numerous Irish kings. The last high king, Rory O’Conor,
was buried here in 1198. In the course of time, Clonmacnois was raided repeat-
edly by native chiefs, Danes, and Anglo-Normans, until it was finally abandoned
in 1552. Today you can see the remains of a cathedral, a castle, eight churches,
two round towers, three sculpted high crosses, and more than 200 monumental
slabs. The site includes an exemplary visitor center with a beautifully designed
exhibition, a first-rate audiovisual program, and pleasant tearooms.
On R357, 6.5km (4 miles) north of Shannonbridge, County Offaly. & 090/967-4195. Admission €5 ($6)
adults, €3.50 ($4.20) seniors, €2 ($2.40) students and children over 7, free for children under 7, €11 ($13)
families. Nov to mid-Mar daily 10am–5:30pm; mid-Mar to mid-May and mid-Sept to Oct daily 10am–6pm;
mid-May to early Sept daily 9am–7pm.
Locke’s Distillery Museum Established in 1757, this 18th- and 19th-

century enterprise was one of the oldest licensed pot-still whiskey distilleries in
the world. After producing whiskey for almost 200 years, it closed in 1953; over
the past 15 years, a local group has restored it as a museum. In 1998 a major
exhibition space opened in the restored front grain loft to display a host of dis-
tilling artifacts. A 35-minute tour will not only tell you how whiskey was distilled
using old techniques and machinery, but also inform you about the area’s social
history. It’s almost midway between Dublin and Galway, making it a good stop-
off point while you’re on a cross-country journey or touring in the area. On the
premises, you’ll find a restaurant, coffee shop, and craft shop.
On N6, east of Athlone, Kilbeggan, County Westmeath. & 0506/32134. Admission €5 ($6) adults, €4
($4.80) seniors and students, €11 ($13) families. Apr–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–4pm.
SIGHTSEEING CRUISES
Rosanna Cruises This is the cruise to take if you only have time for one,
since it offers live commentary and more enthusiasm than the other somewhat
canned deliveries. This company offers cruises of the inner lakes of Lough Ree or
M I D D L E S H A N N O N : F R O M B I R R TO AT H L O N E 485
to Clonmacnois onboard the 71-passenger Viking I. Patrons hear live commen-

tary on the 300-year Viking history on the Shannon and Lough Ree. The Lough
Ree trip takes 11⁄2 hours; the 41⁄2-hour Clonmacnois trip includes a 1-hour stopover
at the monastic site, with limited refreshments for sale on board. The company
furnishes children with Viking helmets, costumes, and plastic swords for the
duration of the trip to add a touch of berserk authenticity. Buy tickets at the
Strand Fishing Tackle Shop (& 090/647-9277), from where you’ll also depart.
15 Church St., Athlone, County Westmeath (office address). & 090/647-3383. Lough Ree trip €9 ($11) adults,
€6 ($7.50) seniors and children, €29 ($35) families; Clonmacnois trip €15 ($18) adults, €9 ($11) seniors and
children, €47 ($57) families. May–Sept Lough Ree trip daily 2:30 and 4:30pm; Clonmacnois trip daily 9am.
Silverline Cruisers Ltd. This company operates 90-minute cruises on the

River Queen, a 54-seat enclosed river bus. The trip starts out by passing under
the seven-arched Banagher Stone Bridge, then passes Martello towers and
fortresses on its way downstream to Victoria Lock, the largest lock on the Shan-
non system. The taped commentary covers all the historical aspects of the route,
but it lacks the spontaneity of the live commentary you get on the Rosanna
Cruises. There’s a bar onboard.
The Marina, Banagher, County Offaly. & 090/975-1112. www.silverlinecruisers.com. Cruise €8 ($9.65)
adults, €6 ($7.50) children, €22 ($27) families. June–Sept, times vary.
OUTDOOR PURSUITS & SPECTATOR SPORTS

BICYCLING Bikes can be rented from D.B. Cycles, 23 Connaught St.,
Athlone, County Westmeath (& 090/649-2280), for €12 ($14) per day or
€70 ($84) per week.
BOATING The following companies rent cabin cruisers, usually for a mini-
mum of 1 week, along this section of the Shannon: Athlone Cruisers, Jolly
Mariner Marina, Athlone, County Westmeath (& 090/647-2892; www.acl.ie);
Silverline Cruisers, The Marina, Banagher, County Offaly (& 090/975-1112);
and Tara Cruiser Ltd., Kilfaughna, Knockvicar, County Roscommon (& 071/
966-7777). Crafts range from four to six berths; rates average €1,000 to
€1,700 ($1,205–$2,048) per week in high season.
GOLF Birr Golf Club, Birr, County Offaly (& 0509/20082), is an 18-hole
course on 45 hectares (112 acres) of parkland countryside; the greens fees are
€25 ($30) weekdays, €35 ($42) weekends.
In the Athlone area are the 18-hole Athlone Golf Club, Hodson Bay,
Athlone, County Westmeath (& 090/649-2073), with greens fees of €30 ($36)
weekdays, €35 ($42) weekends; and the 18-hole championship Mount Temple
Golf Club, Moate, County Westmeath (& 090/648-1841), 8km (5 miles) east
of Athlone, with greens fees of €30 ($36) weekdays, €35 ($42) weekends.
HORSE RACING Horse racing takes place in July, August, and September
at the Kilbeggan Racecourse, Loughnagore, Kilbeggan, County Westmeath
(& 0506/32176), off the main Mullingar road (N52), 1.6km (1 mile) from
town. Admission is €12 ($14) for adults, €7 ($8.45) for students.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Temple Country House & Spa This is something of a cult address in
Ireland. Temple Country House is a 250-year-old manor that operates as a
B&B-cum-health-spa—a wonderful place to truly chill out for a couple of days,
at a price that’s reasonable when you consider the rates include spa treatments
and all meals. If you’re willing to “lose” a day or two of vacation time, you
can indulge in some pampering treatments and in Bernadette Fagan’s low-fat
cooking—nothing chaste and depriving here, just rich, tasty food without the
animal fat. The health and spa facilities are all spanking modern, but otherwise
there’s a real old-world feel to the place that’s incredibly restorative for the body
and soul. Rooms are comfortably and attractively appointed, if not overtly lux-
urious. The spa is closed Sunday afternoons and all day Monday. Weekends at
Temple Country House tend to be booked solid about 8 weeks in advance;
figure on booking 3 weeks ahead for a midweek stay.
Horseleap, Moate, County Westmeath. & 0506/35118. Fax 0506/35008. www.templespa.ie. 8 units. Spa
stays from €430 ($518) double for 24-hr. stay, including all meals. €790–€1,100 ($952–$1,325) double for
2- to 3-day spa stays, including all meals. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Sauna/steam room; salon; aro-
matherapy; bicycle rental; hydrotherapy bath; massage and reflexology treatments; sitting room. In room: TV.
Wineport Lodge Yet another cult favorite for salubrious getaways in

the midlands. On weekends, this contemporary cedar lodge on Lough Ree is a
haven for stressed-out Dubliners, who travel just an hour and are rewarded with
utter peace and quiet. Every room is named for a wine or wine region (Bollinger,
Loire Valley, Tuscany) and has fabulous views of the lake. The minimalist design
(sleek walnut furnishings, cream upholstery, animal prints on cushions) and
extralarge bathrooms (with underfloor heating—sweet!) go a long way to make
you feel cosseted and cared for. An array of beauty and massage treatments in
association with the Bliss Therapy spa in Dublin are available in your room.
Glasson, Athlone, County Westmeath. & 090/643-9010. Fax 090/648-5471. www.wineport.ie. 10 units.
€220–€275 ($265–$331). AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (modern European). In room: TV,
tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, trouser press.
EXPENSIVE
Left Bank Bistro MODERN This smart little bistro is as sassy and
bright as they come. The menu dabbles in some honest-to-goodness French
comfort food––perhaps filet of beef with mustard butter or sirloin with parsley-
and-garlic butter––but its focus is on Asia and Italy. Starters include tiger prawns
in won-ton wrap with sweet-chile dip on a Thai salad; focaccia bread; and grilled
Parmesan polenta with arugula and sun-dried tomato salad in an olive-oil-and-
lemon dressing. Main courses are equally globetrotting, featuring white-bean
cassoulet and a delicious Thai-spiced chicken breast on egg noodles with chile
lime, coriander, and coconut milk. The food is delicious, the service cheerful
and professional, the crowd happy and buzzing.
Fry Place, Athlone, County Westmeath. & 090/649-4446. www.leftbankbistro.com. Reservations required.
Main courses €19–€27 ($23–$33). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 10am–9:30pm.
M O D E R AT E
Crookedwood House This excellent country restaurant with rooms
makes a terrific base for touring around this part of the midlands. Originally the
house was an old parish rectory, but it’s now known for its basement restaurant.
Noel Kenny is one of those terrifically talented chefs who delights in giving
earthy flavors a bit of a kick. Think baked crabmeat with chardonnay over tagli-
atelle, rib of beef with horseradish, and venison and wild duck with juniper
berries. The guest rooms are spacious and nicely furnished, and best of all, they
allow you to just fall into bed after one of Noel’s fabulous meals.
Crookedwood, Mullingar, County Westmeath. & 044/72165. Fax 044/72166. www.crookedwoodhouse.
com. 8 units. €150 ($181) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner €37 ($45). MC, V. Free parking. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant (Country House). In room: TV.
U P P E R S H A N N O N : F R O M L O U G H R E E TO L O U G H A L L E N 487
Dooly’s Hotel Dating from 1747, this three-story Georgian hotel is in the
center of Birr. Although one of Ireland’s oldest former coaching inns, it’s been
thoroughly restored and refurbished in recent years. The public areas retain their
Georgian charm, while the guest rooms are comfortably modern with views of
the town or back garden.
Emmet Sq., Birr, County Offaly. & 0509/20032. Fax 0509/21332. www.doolyshotel.com. 18 units. €110
($133) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free public parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants
(international, cafe); bar; nightclub. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
INEXPENSIVE
Brosna Lodge Hotel Value Although it sits on the main thoroughfare in
Banagher, a busy river town near Clonmacnois, this two-story hotel has a warm
country atmosphere, thanks to a beautiful flower-filled front garden and enthusi-
astic innkeeper-owners Pat and Della Horan. The public areas are furnished with
traditional period pieces and local antiques. The rooms are bright and airy and
overlook the gardens or the town. Best of all, it’s just a short walk to the riverfront.
Main St., Banagher, County Offaly. & 0509/51350. Fax 0509/51521. 14 units. €80 ($96) double. Rates
include full breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; lounge. In room: TV.
PUBS
Of all the river towns in this section of the Shannon, Banagher, in County
Offaly, is particularly well known for lively Irish-traditional-music sessions at
two of its pubs. At J. J. Hough’s, Main Street (no phone), there’s music every
night during the summer, and Friday to Sunday the rest of the year. The Vine
House, West End (& 0509/51463), offers music every night during the sum-
mer. Here are two more pubs with considerable character:
Killeen’s Just 6.4km (4 miles) south of Clonmacnois, tucked into the little vil-
lage of Shannonbridge—so named for the graceful bridge of 16 arches that spans
the river—here’s yet another great watering hole that outgrew its pub-cum-grocery
origins with tremendous style and grace. There are turf fires, excellent pints of
Guinness, and faultless Irish coffees. Shannonbridge, County Offaly. & 090/967-4112.
Sean’s Finds This is a classic old-time pub—long and narrow with small,
scarred wooden tables, low ceilings, and a fireplace to warm your hands by. In
fine weather, you can sit in the large beer garden on banks of the Shannon.
There’s live music (mainly traditional) here practically all the time, which only
adds to the appeal. 13 Main St., Athlone, County Westmeath. & 090/649-2358.
3 Upper Shannon: From Lough Ree to Lough Allen

Roscommon is 82km (51 miles) NE of Galway, 147km (91 miles) NW of Dublin; Longford is 129km (80 miles)
NW of Dublin, 44km (27 miles) NE of Athlone; Carrick-on-Shannon is 56km (35 miles) SE of Sligo; Cavan is
105km (65 miles) NW of Dublin
The Upper Shannon River region is home to a remarkable assortment of castles,
great houses, and museums. One of Ireland’s newest and most significant col-
lections, the Irish Famine Museum, Strokestown, County Roscommon, is of
special importance as Ireland commemorates the 150th anniversary of the Great
Hunger. This museum chronicles the great tragedy that changed the course of
history in Ireland and the world, sending forth the Irish diaspora to England,
the United States, Canada, and Australia.
In addition, the shores of the Upper Shannon encompass Lough Ree, the sec-
ond-largest of Shannon’s lakes. Considered almost an inland sea, it’s distinguished
by long, flat vistas across the farming countryside of counties Roscommon, West-
meath, and Longford.
County Longford gives the river its literary associations. This eastern bank of the
Shannon is often referred to as “Goldsmith country,” because 18th-century drama-
tist, novelist, and poet Oliver Goldsmith was born at Pallas, near Ballymahon.
Although Goldsmith did much of his writing in London, it’s said that he drew on
many of his Irish experiences for his works, including She Stoops to Conquer.
Above Lough Ree, the river is relatively narrow until it reaches the town of
Carrick-on-Shannon, County Leitrim. It’s situated on one of the great ancient
crossing places of the Shannon. The town is particularly known as a center for
boating, with a vast marina in the middle of the town where many companies
rent cabin cruisers.
The whole county of Leitrim is uniquely affected by the Shannon’s waters.
It’s divided into two parts, almost wholly separated by Lough Allen. A storage
reservoir for a nearby hydroelectric plant, Lough Allen is the Shannon’s third-
largest lake, 11km (7 miles) long and 4.8km (3 miles) wide. North of Lough
Allen, in County Cavan, is the source of the river: the Shannon Pot, on the
southern slopes of the Cuilcagh Mountain.
The scope of the Shannon has been broadened in recent years, so it’s now pos-
sible to travel from the Shannon River to Lough Erne, using a stretch of water
known as the Ballinamore-Ballyconnell Canal. Following a painstaking restora-
tion, it was reopened in spring 1994, after a lapse of 125 years. Because it pro-
vides a clear path from the Shannon in the Republic of Ireland to Lough Erne
in Northern Ireland, the new passage is officially designated the Shannon-Erne
Waterway. It’s a symbol of cross-border cooperation and a touchstone in a new
golden age of Irish waterway travel.
AREA ESSENTIALS
Upper Shannon area is by car or boat. Although there is public transportation,
you will need a car to get around the riverbanks and to the various attractions.
Among major roads that lead to this area are the main Dublin-Sligo road (N4),
the main Dublin-Cavan road (N3), N5 and N63 from Castlebar and the west,
and N61 and N55 from the south.
VISITOR INFORMATION Information on County Roscommon is avail-
able from the Ireland West Tourism Office, Foster Street, Galway (& 091/
537700; www.westireland.travel.ie). Hours are May, June, and September daily
9am to 5:45pm; July and August daily 9am to 7:45pm; October to April, Mon-
day to Friday 9am to 5:45pm and Saturday 9am to 12:45pm. Information on
County Longford is available from the East Coast & Midlands Tourism
Office, Clonard House, Dublin Road, Mullingar, County Westmeath (& 044/
48761), open Easter through September, Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm,
with extended hours in July and August; on County Cavan from the Cavan
Tourist Office, Farnham Street, Cavan, County Cavan (& 049/4331942),
open May through September, Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 10am
to 2pm; on County Leitrim from the North-West Tourism Office, Aras Red-
dan, Temple Street, Sligo (& 071/916-1201), open Easter through September,
Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 9am to 5pm, and Sunday 9am to
3pm, with extended hours in July and August; and from the tourist office at
Carrick-on-Shannon (& 071/962-0170), open May through September,
Monday to Saturday 9:15am to 5:30pm, Sunday 10am to 2pm.
Seasonal information points, operating from June to August, are signposted
in Boyle (& 071/966-2145), Longford (& 043/46566), and Roscommon
(& 090/662-6342).
EXPLORING THE AREA

Boyle Abbey Boyle Abbey was founded in 1161 as a daughter house of the
Cistercian Abbey at Mellifont. Today it is the most impressive survivor of the early
Irish Cistercian settlements of the late 12th and early 13th centuries. The Cister-
cian Order was founded in 11th-century France as a return to the uncompromis-
ing simplicity and tranquil austerity of the monastic calling. The abbey was to be
a haven of otherworldliness, and yet the world’s savagery descended on Boyle
Abbey more than once. Its walls were torn down in the mid-1600s, when the Eng-
lish murdered the resident monks and used the monastery as a military garrison.
What remains is a complex fossil clearly imprinted with both the serene and vio-
lent aspects of the abbey’s history. The ruins of Boyle Abbey evoke in visitors a
sense of what this place has seen, suffered, and enjoyed. The interpretive center,
housed in the restored gatehouse, is informative and thoughtfully designed.
N4, Boyle, County Roscommon. & 071/966-2604. Admission €2 ($2.40) adults, €1.50 ($1.80) seniors, €1
($1.20) students and children, €5.50 ($6.60) families. Early Apr to Oct daily 9:30am–6:30pm.
Cavan Crystal Craft & Design Centre One of the country’s top three
crystal companies, this establishment is known for its delicate glassware, mouth-
blown and hand-cut by skilled craftspeople. Visitors are invited to watch as
skilled master blowers fashion the molten crystal into intricate shapes and
designs, followed by the precision work of the master cutters. The glassware is
sold in the extended craft-and-factory shop. The center also includes a restaurant.
Dublin rd. (N3), Cavan, County Cavan. & 049/433-1800. www.cavancrystaldesign.com. Free admission.
Mon–Fri 9:30am–6pm; Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–6pm.
Clonalis House Standing on land that has belonged to the O’Conors for
more than 1,500 years, this is one of Ireland’s great houses. It’s the ancestral home
of the O’Conors, kings of Connaught, and the home of the O’Conor Don, the
direct descendant of the last high king of Ireland. The house, built in 1880, is a
combination of Victorian, Italianate, and Queen Anne architecture, with mostly
Louis XV–style furnishings, plus antique lace, horse-drawn farm machinery, and
other memorabilia. It’s primarily a museum of the O’Conor (O’Connor) family,
with portraits, documents, and genealogical tracts dating back 2,000 years. Dis-
plays also include a rare ancient harp that’s said to have belonged to Turlough
O’Carolan (1670–1738), the blind Irish bard who composed tunes that are still
played today. The grounds, with terraced and woodland gardens, also hold the
O’Conor inauguration stone, similar to the Stone of Scone at Westminster Abbey.
On the N60 west of Castlerea, County Roscommon. & 094/962-0014. Admission €6 ($7.50) adults, €5
($6) students and seniors, €3 ($3.60) children up to age 12. June–Aug Mon–Sat 11am–5pm.
Lough Key Forest Park Kids If you’re driving cross-country and want to
stop for a picnic and a walk, or if you’re traveling with children and are in search
of a perfect place to let them loose, look no further. Spanning 336 hectares (840
acres) along the shores of Lough Key and made up of mixed woodlands, a lake,
and more than a dozen islands, this is one of Ireland’s foremost lakeside parks.
The grounds include nature walks, ancient monuments, ring forts, a central view-
ing tower, picnic grounds, a cafe, and a shop. In addition to cypress groves and
other diverse foliage, you’ll find a unique display of bog gardens, where a wide
selection of peat-loving plants and shrubs flourishes. Deer, otters, hedgehogs,
birds, pheasants, and many other forms of wildlife roam the park. The lake is nav-
igable from the Shannon on the Boyle River. Powerboats and rowboats are avail-
able to rent, and there are pony and cart rides through the park.
Enter from the main Dublin-Sligo rd. (N4), 3.2km (2 miles) east of Boyle, County Roscommon. & 071/
966-2363. Admission to park €5 ($6) per car (charged Apr–Sept only). Year-round daily dawn–dusk.
Lough Rynn House & Gardens Seat of the Clements, the earls of Leitrim,
this estate comprises 40 hectares (100 acres) of woodland, ornamental gardens,
open pastures, and lakes. Of particular interest is the 1.2-hectare (3-acre)
terraced walled garden dating from 1859. It’s one of the largest of its kind in the
country, laid out in the manner of a Victorian pleasure garden. The arboretum con-
tains specimens of the tulip tree, California redwood, and other exotic species,
including the oldest monkey-puzzle tree in Ireland. Four thousand years of history
can be seen at the rear of the house in one 180-degree sweep of the eye. The
Neolithic burial tomb atop Druids Hill was constructed about 2000 B.C.; Reynolds
Castle, a lonely sentinel by the lakeshore, dates from the 16th century; and Lough
Rynn House (which you can see the inside of as well) was built in 1832.
South of Carrick-on-Shannon, on the outskirts of Mohill, 5.2km (31⁄4 miles) from the main Dublin-Sligo rd. (N4),
County Leitrim. & 071/963-1427. Admission €5 ($6) per car. Guided tour €2 ($2.40) adults, €1 ($1.20)
children. May–Aug daily 10am–7pm.
Strokestown Park House, Gardens & Famine Museum One of the

defining events of Ireland’s history, the Great Potato Famine of the 1840s is the
focus of this museum. Housed in the stable yards of Strokestown Park House, this
museum illustrates how and why the famine started, how English colonial officials
failed to prevent its spread, and how it reduced the Irish population of 8.1 million
by nearly 3 million through death and mass emigration. This museum is particu-
larly interesting for Irish Americans, tens of millions of whom trace their ancestry
to those who left the country during and after the famine. The museum also seeks
to relate the events of the Irish famine to contemporary world hunger and poverty.
Strokestown Park House was the seat of the Pakenham-Mahon family from
1600 to 1979. The 45-room Palladian house, designed for Thomas Mahon by Ger-
man architect Richard Castle in the 1730s, incorporates parts of an earlier tower
house. The north wing houses Ireland’s last existing galleried kitchen (where the
lady of the house could observe the culinary activity without being part of it). The
south wing is an elaborate vaulted stable, often described as an equine cathedral.
On the main Dublin-Castlebar rd. (N5), Strokestown Park, Strokestown, County Roscommon. & 071/
963-3013. www.strokestownpark.ie. Admission to house or gardens or museum €5.50 ($6.60) adults, €4.50
($5.40) seniors and students, €2.20 ($2.65) children, €13 ($15) families. Admission to any 2 of 3 (house, gar-
dens, museum) €9.50 ($11) adults, €8 ($9.65) seniors and students, €4 ($4.80) children, €24 ($28) fami-
lies. Admission to all 3 attractions €14 ($16) adults, €11 ($13) seniors and students, €5.50 ($6.60) children,
€28 ($34) families. Mar–Oct daily 10am–5:30pm.
Tullynally Castle and Gardens A turreted and towered Gothic Revival

manor, this house has been the home of the Pakenham family, the earls of Long-
ford, since 1655. The highlights include a great hall that rises two stories, with
a ceiling of plaster Gothic vaulting, and a collection of family portraits, china,
and furniture. There’s also a collection of 19th-century gadgets. The 12-hectare
(30-acre) grounds are an attraction in themselves, with woodland walks, a linear
water garden, a Victorian grotto, and an avenue of 200-year-old Irish yew trees.
Tullynally is near Lough Derravaragh, an idyllic spot featured in the legendary
Irish tale The Children of Lir. The tearoom is open daily May to August.
About 32km (20 miles) east of Longford and 21km (13 miles) north of Mullingar, off the main Dublin-Sligo
rd. (N4), Castlepollard, County Westmeath. & 044/61159. www.tullynallycastle.com. Admission to gardens
€5 ($6) adults, €2 ($2.40) children; admission to both castle and gardens €8 ($9.65) adults, €4 ($4.80) chil-
dren. Castle mid-June to July daily 2:30–6pm; gardens May–Aug daily 2–6pm. Closed Sept–Apr.

BOATING The following companies rent cabin cruisers along this part of the
Shannon: Athlone Cruisers, Jolly Mariner Marina, Athlone, County West-
meath (& 090/647-2892); Carrick Craft, The Marina, Carrick-on-Shannon,
County Leitrim (& 071/962-1248); Crown Blue Line, The Marina, Carrick-
on-Shannon, County Leitrim (& 44-1603-630513 headquartered in Britain;
www.crown-blueline.com); and Emerald Star Line, The Marina, Carrick-on-
Shannon, County Leitrim (& 071/962-0234).
GOLF There are two 18-hole championship golf courses in the area that
should not be missed. The Glasson Golf Hotel and Country Club, Glasson,
County Westmeath (& 090/648-5120; www.glassongolf.ie), is on the shores of
Lough Ree, 9.7km (6 miles) north of Athlone. Greens fees are €55 ($66) Mon-
day to Thursday, €60 ($75) Friday and Sunday, and €70 ($84) Saturday. The
Slieve Russell Hotel Golf Club, Cranaghan, Ballyconnell, County Cavan
(& 049/26444; www.quinnhotels.com), charges greens fees of €55 ($66) week-
days and €70 ($84) weekends for nonguests of the hotel. Guests (see review
below) pay €38 ($46) weekdays and €48 ($58) weekends.
Two other 18-hole courses in the area are County Cavan Golf Club, Arn-
more House, Drumellis, County Cavan (& 049/433-1283; www.cavangolf.ie),
with greens fees of €25 ($30) weekdays, €30 ($36) weekends; and County
Longford Golf Club, Dublin Road, Longford (& 043/46310), with greens fees
of €18 ($22) weekdays, €24 ($29) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING Moorlands Equestrian & Leisure Centre,
Drumshanbo, County Leitrim (& 071/964-1500), offers lessons, as well as trail
rides along Lough Allen and the nearby hills. Children are welcome. During the
off season, courses in equestrian science are offered. Book lessons or trail rides at
least a day in advance. Mountain walking, watersports, and accommodations are
also offered.
EXPENSIVE
Slieve Russell Hotel Kids Set on 160 hectares (400 acres) of parklands
and gardens, including 20 hectares (50 acres) of lakes and ponds, this impressive
resort hotel is a popular destination among the Irish looking for quality down
time. (The easy, 2-hr. drive from the capital makes it particularly big with Dublin-
ers.) In fact, it’s so popular that 50 spanking-new guest rooms have been added in
the last year. Although barely a decade old, the hotel captures the opulence and
charm of a bygone era, with public areas that boast marbled colonnades, huge
open fireplaces, plush carpets, marble staircases, and wrought-iron trim. The con-
servatory-style Fountain Room exudes an Italianate garden atmosphere, with its
sky-lit glass dome, Corinthian columns, stone fountain, and array of leafy plants.
Guest rooms are modern and large, with traditional furnishings, quality period
fabrics, and brass accessories. For families, there is an excellent, supervised play-
room, children’s menus at meal times, and a general child-friendly atmosphere.
Situated near the Shannon-Erne Waterway, this hotel is a good base for touring
not only the upper Shannon area but also the attractions of Enniskillen and
Northern Ireland. Excellent 2- and 3-day packages are available year-round.
Ballyconnell, County Cavan. & 049/952-6444. Fax 049/952-6474. www.quinnhotels.com. 211 units. €240
($289) double. Rates include full breakfast. DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international,
brasserie); 2 bars; indoor swimming pool; 18-hole championship golf course; 4 tennis courts; exercise room;
Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room; children’s playroom; concierge; salon; room service; babysitting; laundry and dry
cleaning; 2 squash courts; walking trails. In room: TV, minibar, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Hotel Kilmore Located 3.2km (2 miles) south of Cavan Town, this mod-
ern hotel (built in the 1980s) was totally refurbished and redecorated a few years
ago to provide a new level of comfort. The public areas are airy and bright, done
up in warm rusts and golds, and overlook the garden with its trio of fountains.
Guest rooms are comfortable and well appointed.
Dublin rd. (N3), Cavan, County Cavan. & 049/433-2288. Fax 049/4332458. www.quinnhotels.com. 39 units.
€125 ($151) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood, game); bar;
babysitting; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
The Park Hotel Set on 40 hectares (100 acres) of woodlands and gardens
beside Lough Ramor, this old-style hotel dates from 1751. Originally known as
Deer Park Lodge, a sporting and summer residence of the Marquis of Headfort,
it became a hotel in the 1930s. It has since undergone a number of renovations
and extensions, making for lots of connecting corridors and varying standards of
guest rooms. The public areas retain a definite 18th-century charm, with high
ceilings, elaborate chandeliers, period furnishings, and original oil paintings.
The hotel and its kitchen are used as the Irish campus for the Baltimore Inter-
national (Culinary) College in the off season.
Deer Park Lodge, Cavan-Dublin rd. (N3), Virginia, County Cavan. & 049/854-6100. Fax 049/854-7203.
www.bichotels.com. 19 units, 16 with bathroom. €130 ($157) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; 9-hole golf course; tennis court; fishing privileges; walking trails. In
room: TV.
INEXPENSIVE
Ross Castle and House Value This 160-hectare (400-acre) family-run
horse, cattle, and sheep farm on Lough Sheelin offers appealing options for
accommodations and activities. Owners Benita and Sam Walker have turned this
into a unique place, and one of the nicest hideaways in this very affordable cor-
ner of Ireland. Ross Castle is a 16th-century fortified tower that’s said to be
haunted by a lovesick bride-to-be named Sabrina, whose lover, Orwin, drowned
in Lough Sheelin en route to their elopement. They’re buried together in a nearby
field. Today the place is restored, with central heating throughout (even in the
tower rooms). It contains four guest rooms, including one family room. Rooms
aren’t quite as luxurious as at pricier castles, but they’re comfortable and quite
atmospheric. Nearby Ross House is a spacious, comfortable manor house with
seven guest rooms. The oldest portions of the building date from the mid–17th
century. Fishing is a particularly popular pastime here—the place is noted for its
brown trout and is stocked with pike and perch. On request, three-course din-
ners are served, with an excellent small selection of wines, modestly priced.
Whether you fish or not, for trout or ghosts, this is a most congenial spot.
Mount Nugent, County Cavan. Ross Castle. & 043/81286. Ross House &/fax 049/854-0218. www.ross-
castle.com. 16 units. €96–€105 ($116–$127) double. MC, V. Closed Dec–Feb. Amenities: Tennis court;
Jacuzzi; sauna; massage treatments; babysitting; drawing room; horseback riding. In room: TV (house only).
A PUB
Although there are many good pubs in the area, don’t miss the Derragarra Inn,
Butlersbridge, County Cavan (& 049/433-1003), for a drink or a meal. More
than 200 years old, it’s full of local farm implements and crafts, as well as exotic
souvenirs collected by former owner John Clancy during his travels around the
world. Relax by the old turf fireplace or on the garden patio. It’s 6.5km (4 miles)
north of Cavan Town.
15
Northern Ireland
T echnically, the province of Ulster
comprises the six counties of Northern
government was represented by
Michael Collins, it was decided that
Ireland and Donegal. But the terms the border would be drawn to divide
Ulster, Northern Ireland, “the Six the island in two. Twenty-six Irish
Counties,” and “the North” are used counties would form an independent,
interchangeably by everyone in Ire- free state (later the Republic of Ire-
land. And each is a byword for a his- land), while six counties in the Ulster
torically troubled land. John Hume, province would become Northern Ire-
one of Northern Ireland’s most distin- land and remain a part of the United
guished statesmen and a Nobel-win- Kingdom. Why these six counties?
ning peacemaker, once said, “Anyone Because their populations were mainly
who isn’t confused in Northern Ire- Protestant—and as such were presum-
land doesn’t really understand what is ably more loyal to Britain—while the
going on.” These are sobering words vast majority of the island’s other 26
for anyone about to sketch, in a few counties was, and still is, Catholic. A
paragraphs, this unique place, its provision in the agreement stated that
remarkable people, and fraught his- Northern Ireland could later join the
tory. But here it is in a nutshell. other 26 counties if it was the will of
The strife in Northern Ireland can the people—that is, if the Northern
be traced back to a point over 800 Irish people voted for reunification in
years ago when Britain decided to take a referendum.
control of its neighboring island. Over When the Six Counties were
the past 8 centuries there have been detached from the rest of the island,
various unsuccessful attempts by the two conflicting ideological bodies
Irish to eject the British. And in that emerged in the North: Unionists,
same time period, the British have associated with the Protestant major-
made concerted efforts to make Ire- ity, who want to remain a part of the
land, and the Irish, more British. Tac- United Kingdom, and Nationalists,
tics have included outlawing the associated with the Catholic minority,
Gaelic language, banning the practice who want the whole of Ireland united
of Catholicism, barring Catholics as one independent nation. It’s impor-
from land ownership, and relocating tant to realize that being a Unionist or
Britons to Ireland—often enticing a Nationalist doesn’t by itself imply
them with land. The descendants of the approval of violence as a means to
these British settlers, generally speak- an end. In fact, the overwhelming
ing, make up the modern-day Protes- majority of Northern Irish people,
tant population of Ireland. regardless of whether they want
Ireland finally won its independ- British rule or Irish rule, don’t belong
ence from Britain in 1921, in the to any paramilitary group.
aftermath of the 1916 rebellion. Dur- By all accounts, there was consider-
ing negotiations, in which the Irish able unfairness in how Catholics were
Northern Ireland
Andrew Jackson Centre 29
Malin Head
Ards Peninsula 37
Armagh Astronomy Centre 42 Malin
Armagh County Museum 43 Fanad Head
Tory Island Inishowen
Beaghmore Stone Circles 6 Culdaff Head
Carndonagh
Belleek Pottery 10
Horn Head
Benburb Valley Park 38
Moville
Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge 25
Carrickfergus Castle 27
Castle Coole 18 Carrowkeel
Castle Espie 35 Rathmullen
Castle Ward 45Creeslough B201
Muff Lough Foyle
Castlewellan Forest Park 47 Limavady
Crom Estate 19 Milford B66
Devenish Island 14 Ramelton N13

Dundrum Castle 48 N56 Derry DE
D E RRY
R RY
Dunluce Castle 21 Letterkenny
Dunluce Centre 22
A6
Drum Manor Forest Park 9
DO
D O NEN E GAL
GAL Dungiven
Drumena Cashel 49 Claudy A6
Enniskillen Castle 17
Lifford
Explor Erne 11 1 3
Exploris 40 Strabane Sperrin Mountains
Castlefin 2
Sion Mills
Glenties Ballybofey 4
Blue Stack Mountains

N15
Newtownstewart 5
6
7 A505 Cookstown
N56 8
9
Pomeroy
Donegal Omagh
Bay
N15 A29
A32
T Y RON
RO N E
Kesh
A47 Dungannon
13
10 Dromore Fintona
White Island A32
12
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11 Lower Lough Ballygawley
A46 B122
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Lough Melvin
B46 Clogher Augher Aughnacloy
L EIT
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A N AG H B80
Florence Court 15 14 Fivemiletown

Giant’s Causeway Enniskillen 18 A4
& Visitor Centre 23 17
Lisbellaw
Giant’s Ring 32
The Glens of Antrim 26 15 16 Lisnaskea
Rosslea
Gortin Glen Forest Park 5 A32 Upper Lough
Grant Ancestral Home 12 Erne
Newtownbutler N2
Gray’s Printers’ Museum 1
19
MO
M O NAG
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Greencastle Fort 55
Grey Abbey 36
Irish Linen Centre 39 Ferry Route
N54
Knight Ride 28 CAVA
C AVA N N3 0 10 mi
Legananny Dolmen 44
N
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Discovery Centre 31
494
Marble Arch Caves 16
Mount Stewart House 34
20RATHLIN ISLAND bell
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Silent Valley Mountain Park 53
B15 Cushendall Red Bay
A44
Sperrin Heritage Centre 3
Ballymoney Glenariff St. Patrick’s Centre/Down
A26
26
Heritage Museum 46
Carnlough Bay Tollymore Forest Park 51
Garvagh Carnlough Tyrone Crystal 13
A54
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LO UTH
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495
496 CHAPTER 15 . NORTHERN IRELAND
treated by the police and British gov- Ireland to take charge of their political
ernment in Northern Ireland. Things destiny. As a consequence, the govern-
came to a head in the late 1960s, when ment was devolved from London to
the minority Catholic population Belfast. Yes, there have been teething
began a civil rights campaign to pains. But the people of Northern Ire-
protest their treatment as second-class land, it is to be hoped, will unite to
citizens. When their demonstrations nurture their fascinatingly diverse
and marches were squelched forcefully island, unique in its history, which
by the police, the stage was set for the they all have made and shared. Even
Irish Republican Army, a violent para- the Troubles have been shared, and
military Nationalist group, to emerge. held painfully in common, and will
The break-out of the so-called “Trou- make their own contribution to the
bles” in 1969 was the beginning of future.
violence as an everyday fact of life for As this book goes to press, the
the people of Northern Ireland. This mood is cautiously optimistic. For the
isn’t to say that every Northern Irish- past 6 years (1998–2004) since the
man has encountered violence in his Good Friday Agreement was signed,
lifetime, but it certainly has been a the new government of the North has
pervasively stressful environment in had a turbulent time. After finally
which to live. Since 1969 the North appointing its legislative body, the
has seen the emergence of a half-dozen new Northern Ireland Assembly
other paramilitary groups on both encountered obstacle after hurdle after
sides of the fence. stumbling block as all sides began fin-
To many outsiders, the “Troubles” ger-pointing and failed to reach an
are as incomprehensible and distant as agreement on how and when the
the Middle East conflict. Other peo- peace process should proceed. A most
ple’s prejudices and quarrels usually are. crucial breakthrough came, in August
Yet from a visitor’s perspective, the vio- 2001, when the Irish Republic Army
lence has been remarkably contained. finally put forward a plan to decom-
Like diplomats, foreigners have enjoyed mission its weapons. Decommission-
a certain immunity. Derry and Belfast ing had been a prickly point since
at their worst have been as safe for visi- negotiations began.
tors as almost any comparable Ameri- For many visitors to Ireland, the
can city, and the Ulster countryside has North offers a new, uncharted, and
been as idyllic and serene as Vermont. exciting destination. While tourism to
For the outsider, driving through the Republic has soared, the North has
Northern Ireland was and is no more been less visited. Even the majority of
cause for fear than driving to work. Not the Irish people in the Republic have
so for the people of Northern Ireland, never set foot in the North. All of this
whose wounds and grief run deep. is bound to change, and none too
Fortunately, their resilience and soon. The truth is that Northern Ire-
resolve for peace run even deeper. On land is as welcoming and gracious as
May 22, 1998, Northerners and their the Republic, and surely as beautiful.
fellow islanders in the Republic voted Furthermore, because tourism has
for a fresh future, one that would not taken much shorter and more careful
be rutted or wrecked by the past. The steps in the North, the countryside is
Belfast Agreement, aka the “Good Fri- all the more unspoiled. Much of
day Agreement,” dismantled the Northern Ireland is just waiting to be
claims of both Ireland and Britain to discovered.
the North and acknowledged the sov- The first thing that strikes you once
ereign right of the people of Northern you cross the border and take your
NORTHERN IRELAND ESSENTIALS 497
Tips Keeping Your Irish Up

If you want to brush up on your knowledge of Northern Ireland, New-
shound (www.nuzhound.com) is an indispensable resource. Run by Amer-
ican expat John Fay, this is an extremely well organized catalog of news
articles culled from international newspapers, covering everything from
a history of “the Troubles” to stories on dining and shopping in Belfast.
The vast array of articles about the Republic (click “News of the Irish”)
includes culture, travel, and even dining reviews from Dublin to Donegal.
The site is intelligent, user-friendly, and searchable.
bearings is how small Northern Ire- Antrim, the Mourne Mountains, the
land is. The next thing is how much Sperrin Mountains, and the Fer-
there is to see and do. As the Tourist managh Lakelands.
Board puts it, Northern Ireland is a One other selling point for spend-
nation that only pretends to be small. ing time up North in 2005: Prices in
This said, there are really only two Northern Ireland have barely risen at
cities in the North likely to serve as all since we went to press last year,
major destinations in themselves and compared to the high inflation we
bases for exploration: Belfast and have witnessed in the Irish Republic
Derry City, and their environs. After over the same period. Blame the fact
these, the major destinations in the that your dollar goes less far in North-
North lie in its magnificent country- ern Ireland nowadays on the worsened
side, in regions officially designated as dollar/pound exchange rate, rather
areas of outstanding natural beauty: than on hiked prices.
the Causeway Coast and the Glens of
1 Northern Ireland Essentials

VISITOR INFORMATION
The Northern Ireland Tourist Board headquarters is at 59 North St., Belfast
BT1 1NB (& 028/9023-1221; fax 028/9024-0960; www.discovernorthern
ireland.com). In addition, there are more than 30 tourist information centers
(TICs) scattered around the province, most of which are open year-round. The
obliging, friendly personnel are eager to help with any problem and to make sure
you see the highlights of their area. Local accommodations may be booked in
any TIC, and most are hooked up to online reservations systems that can secure
reservations throughout all of Ireland and the United Kingdom. To make your
own reservations anywhere in Ireland using a credit card, you can call the Cen-
tral Accommodations free-phone number (& 0800/6686-6866).
GETTING TO THE NORTH
BY AIR Aer Lingus (& 800/474-7424; www.aerlingus.com) offers scheduled
flights from Boston and New York via Shannon to Belfast International Airport
(& 028/9448-4848; www.belfastairport.com; [email protected]). Other
major carriers offer connecting flights from the United States and Canada via
London/Heathrow, Glasgow, or Manchester. Charter service to Shannon,
Dublin, and Belfast is offered by a range of operators, such as Sceptre Charters
(& 800/221-0924) and Irish Charters (& 888/431-6688) in the United States,
and World of Vacations (& 800/263-8776; www.worldofvacations.com) in
Canada.
Direct flights into Belfast International Airport include service by British

Airways (& 800/403-0882; www.britishairways.com) from Birmingham,
Edinburgh, and London/Heathrow. In addition, there is service into Belfast
City Airport (& 028/9093-9093; www.belfastcityairport.com) by a range of
carriers, including British Airways flights from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds,
Liverpool, and Manchester, and by low-cost carriers EasyJet (& 0871/
750-0100 from the U.K.; www.easyjet.com), Ryanair (& 0871/246-0000 in
Britain; www.ryanair.com), bmibaby (& 08702/642229 in Britain; www.bmibaby.
com), and MyTravelLite (& 08701/564567 in Britain; www.mytravellite.com)
from a wide range of U.K. airports. Service to City of Derry Airport (& 028/
7181-0784; www.cityofderryairport.com) is provided by British Airways from
Glasgow and Manchester, and by Ryanair (& 0871/246-0000 in Britain;
www.ryanair.com) from London Stansted.
Most international flights into Ireland land in Dublin, with connecting flights
to Belfast.
BY FERRY The quickest sea crossing from Britain to Northern Ireland is the
21⁄2-hour SeaCat (& 08705/523523; www.seacat.co.uk), a catamaran service
from Troon, Scotland, to Belfast. Other ferry services into Belfast include Norse
Merchant Ferries (& 0870/6004321 in Britain or 01/819-2904 in Ireland;
www.norsemerchant.com), which takes 8 hours from Liverpool, and the Isle of
Man Steam Packet Co. (& 0162/466-1661), which takes 2 hours and 45 min-
utes from Douglas, on the Isle of Man (summer service only). In addition, Stena
Sealink (& 08705/707070; www.stenaline.com) operates both fast craft (105
min.) and ferry service (3 hr., 15 min.) from Stranraer, Scotland, to Belfast;
P&O European Ferries (& 0870/242-4777; www.poferries.com) from the
Scottish ports of Fleetwood, Troon, and Cairnryan to Larne; and, in July and
August, SeaCat from Campbell, Scotland, to Ballycastle, County Antrim. The
shortest of the routes is from Cairnryan, aboard a fast craft (60 min.) or a super-
ferry (105 min.).
BY CRUISE SHIP Derry City is rapidly becoming a premier international
cruise destination, with a reputation for friendliness and charm. Every year more
cruise ships, including six-star luxury liners, call at the deep-water facilities at
Lisahally or at the city center’s refurbished Queen’s Quay. For the latest infor-
mation on cruises to Derry Port, contact the Cruise Development Officer,
Derry City Council, 98 Strand Rd., Derry BT48 7NN (& 028/7136-5151; fax
028/7126-4858).
BY TRAIN Trains on the Irish Rail (& 1850/366222; www.irishrail.ie) and
Northern Ireland Railways (& 888/BRITRAIL or 028/9024-6485) systems
travel into Northern Ireland from Dublin’s Connolly Station daily. They arrive
at Belfast’s Central Station, East Bridge Street (& 028/9089-9411). Monday to
Saturday, eight trains a day connect Dublin and Belfast; on Sunday, five. The
trip takes about 2 hours.
BY BUS Ulsterbus (& 028/9033-3000; www.translink.co.uk) runs buses
from the Republic to Belfast and virtually all bus service in and between 21
localities in Northern Ireland. To purchase or reserve a ticket, call & 028/
9032-0011. The express bus from Dublin to Belfast takes 3 hours and runs
seven times daily Monday to Saturday, three times on Sunday.
BY CAR Northern Ireland is directly accessible from the Republic of Ireland
on many main roads and secondary roads. It is possible, but unlikely, that you
NORTHERN IRELAND ESSENTIALS 499
will encounter checkpoints when crossing the border. Main roads leading to
Northern Ireland from the Republic include N1 from Dublin, N2 from Mon-
aghan, N3 from Cavan, N14 and N15 from Donegal, and N16 from Sligo.
Important note: If you are renting a car and taking it across the border, make
certain that all your insurance coverage is equally valid in the North and in the
Republic. Don’t forget to check any coverage provided by your credit card as
well.
GETTING AROUND IN THE NORTH
Northern Ireland has recently launched a major initiative called Translink
(www.translink.co.uk) to coordinate rail, bus, and auto travel in the North,
which will expand and enhance transportation services.
BY TRAIN The hub of Northern Ireland Railways, also known as Translink
(& 028/9066-6630), is Belfast, with two principal rail stations: Great Victoria
St. Station, across from the Europa Bus Centre; and Belfast Central Station,
on East Bridge Street. Trains from Larne arrive at Yorkgate Station; otherwise,
trains to and from all destinations depart from and arrive at Belfast Central.
The three main routes in the North’s rail system are north and west from
Belfast to Derry via Ballymena; east to Bangor, tracing the shores of Belfast
Lough; and south to Dublin via Newry. Be sure to refer to the box called
“Money-Saving Rail & Bus Passes” in the “Getting Around” section of chap-
ter 2. For example, the Irish Rover pass is for use both in the Republic of Ire-
land and in the North.
BY BUS Ulsterbus (& 028/9033-3000; www.translink.co.uk) runs daily
scheduled service from Belfast to major cities and towns throughout Northern
Ireland. From the Laganside Bus Centre, Donegall Quay, Belfast (& 028/
9032-0011), buses leave for destinations in the North, including Belfast Inter-
national Airport and the Larne ferries, as well as the Republic. Bus service in the
North is remarkably thorough and will get you to the most unlikely and remote
destinations. For extra savings, be sure to investigate the bus and rail passes out-
lined in the above-mentioned box in the “Getting Around” section of chapter 2.
BY SIGHTSEEING TOUR From June to August, Ulsterbus operates a wide
variety of full- and half-day coach tours from the Europa Bus Centre, Glengall
Street, Belfast. They run to places such as the Glens of Antrim, Causeway
Coast, Fermanagh Lakelands, Sperrin Mountains, the Mountains of Mourne,
and Armagh. There are also tours designed to take you to specific attractions,
such as the Giant’s Causeway, Old Bushmills Distillery in Bushmills, Navan
Centre in Armagh, Ulster-American Folk Park in Omagh, and Tyrone Crystal
Factory in Dungannon. For full information on the day tours and holiday
packages, visit or phone the Ulsterbus/Translink tourism office at the Europa
Bus Centre, Glengall Street (& 028/9066-6630). To consider in advance the
range of tours available, take a look at www.tourulster.com and click the
“Guided Tours” link.
BY CAR The best way to travel around the Northern Ireland countryside is
by car. The roads are in extremely good condition and are well signposted.
Distances between major cities and towns are short. If you want to rent a car,
Avis (& 028/9024-0404), Budget (& 028/9023-0700), Europcar (& 028/
9031-3500), and Hertz (& 028/9073-2451) have offices in Belfast city, in at
least one of the Belfast airports, or both. If you rent a car in the Republic, you
can drive it in the North as long as you arrange the proper insurance.
FAST FACTS: Northern Ireland

Area Code The area code for all of Northern Ireland is 028. Drop the “0”
when dialing from within Northern Ireland.
Business Hours Banks are generally open Monday to Friday 10am to
12:30pm and 1:30 to 3 or 4pm; they’re closed on bank holidays. In Belfast
and Derry City, banks tend not to close for lunch. Most shops are open
Monday to Saturday 9 or 9:30am to 5 or 5:30pm, with one early-closing
day a week, usually Wednesday or Thursday. Shops in tourist areas are
likely to be open Sunday and to have extended hours, especially in the
summer months.
Currency Since Northern Ireland is a part of the United Kingdom, it uses
the pound sterling and not the euro.
Electricity The electrical current (220 volts/AC) and outlets (requiring
three-pin flat, fused plugs) are the same in the North as in the Republic.
Note that they are not the two-pin round plugs standard throughout
Europe.
Embassies & Consulates The U.S. Consulate General is at Queen’s House,
14 Queen’s St., Belfast BT1 6EQ (& 028/9032-8239). Other foreign offices
include the Australian High Commission, Australia House, Strand, London
WC2 B4L (& 020/7379-4334); Canadian High Commission, Macdonald
House, Grosvenor Square, London W1X 0AB (& 020/7499-9000); New
Zealand High Commission, New Zealand House, 80 Haymarket Sq., Lon-
don SW1Y 4TQ (& 020/7930-8422).
Emergencies Dial & 999 for fire, police, and ambulance.
Mail United Kingdom postal rates apply, and mailboxes are painted red.
Most post offices are open weekdays 9am to 5pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm.
Newspapers & Magazines For listings of upcoming cultural events
throughout Northern Ireland, check the free bimonthly Arts Link
brochure, published by the Arts Council of Northern Ireland and available
at any Northern Ireland Tourist Board office.
Parking Because of long-standing security concerns, parking regulations
are more restrictive and more relentlessly enforced in the North than in
the Republic.
Petrol (Gas) Filling up the tank is far cheaper in the Republic, so do it before
you cross the border. In the North, the approximate price of 1 liter of
unleaded gas is 80p sterling ($1.20). There are 4 liters to the U.S. gallon,
which makes the price of a gallon of unleaded gas a whopping £3.10 ($4.90).
Police The Northern Ireland police is now known as the Police Service of
Northern Ireland (PSNI). Following the Good Friday Agreement, the name
was changed from the Royal Ulster Constabulary (RUC) to reflect the
British devolvement. Dial & 999 in an emergency.
Safety Contrary to the media image, the North has one of the lowest lev-
els of crime in western Europe. Historically, the high rate of serious crime,
such as homicide and robbery, have been almost exclusively associated with
terrorism and the “Troubles.” Yet common sense dictates using care to
avoid pickpockets in crowded areas and to follow other basic rules of safety.
B E L FA S T 501
Taxes You pay a VAT (value-added tax) of 17.5% on almost everything,

except B&B accommodations. The percentages vary with the category of
the services and purchases. It is usually already included in the prices
you’re quoted by hotels and the prices you see marked on merchandise
tags. VAT is already included in the hotel prices we’ve quoted in this
guide. Many shops offer tax-free shopping schemes, such as “Cashback,”
and are pleased to explain the details. The refund procedure is essentially
the same as for the Republic, outlined in “VAT Refunds” in chapter 2.
Vouchers from the North can be presented at the Dublin or Shannon air-
ports before departure from Ireland. For further information, contact HM
Customs and Excise, Belfast International Airport (& 028/9441-3439 or
028/9442-3439; www.hmce.gov.uk).
Telephone To reach Northern Ireland from anywhere but the Republic of
Ireland or Great Britain, dial the country code (44) and then 28 (the area
code minus the initial 0) and finally the local eight-digit number. From the
Republic of Ireland, omit the country code; dial 048 and then the local
eight-digit number. From Great Britain, dial 028 and the eight-digit num-
ber. For local calls within Northern Ireland, simply dial the eight-digit local
number.
2 Belfast
Belfast is 166km (103 miles) N of Dublin, 340km (211 miles) NE of Shannon, 201km (125 miles) E of Sligo,
and 422km (262 miles) NE of Cork
Now is a great time to visit Belfast because it’s a vibrant place that’s on the way
up. It’s got three Michelin-starred restaurants, a boutique hotel favored by pop
stars, fabulous nightlife, and as Bono of U2 recently put it, “Belfast is really hap-
pening at the minute. I’m looking around and the people are looking good, and
the place is looking good.” Moreover, it’s a city that’s putting its troubled history
behind it, with big plans for what has been dubbed the “Titanic quarter,” the
area around the dry dock where Titanic was built.
Nestled beside the River Lagan and Belfast Lough and ringed by gentle hills,
Belfast occupies a lovely setting, often called “the Hibernian Rio.” First-time vis-
itors are in for a number of pleasant surprises. To begin with, Belfast is a vibrant,
fast-moving place with great sightseeing and shopping, as well as wonderful
places to eat, drink, and stay. Secondly, it is an arts hub with an outstanding pro-
gram of year-round events. And finally, Belfast is a pleasingly walkable city laid
out on a human scale. You could cross the city in an hour on foot or, as the locals
say, “just take a wee dander” to admire exquisite examples of Georgian, Victo-
rian, and Edwardian architecture, dominated by the magnificently domed City
Hall.
The core of downtown Belfast sits beside the west bank of the River Lagan.
The city revolves around a central point, Donegall Square, which holds the city
hall; all roads radiate out from there. Donegall Place, which extends north from
the square, leads to Royal Avenue, a prime shopping district. Bedford Street,
which extends south from the square, becomes Dublin Road, which, in turn,
leads to the Queen’s University area. Nearly half a million people, a third of
Northern Ireland’s population, reside within Belfast city limits.
With its large port, Belfast is an industrialized city, often referred to as the
engine room that drove the whirring wheels of the industrial revolution in
Ulster. Major industries range from linen production to shipbuilding to aircraft
manufacturing. The Titanic was built in Belfast port, and today the world’s
largest dry dock is here.
The city’s architecture is particularly rich in Victorian and Edwardian build-
ings with elaborate sculptures over the doors and windows. Busts of gods, poets,
scientists, kings, and queens peer down from the high ledges of banks and old
linen warehouses. Some of Belfast’s grandest buildings are on the banks of War-
ing Street. The Ulster Bank, dating from 1860, has an interior like a Venetian
palace, and the Northern Bank, dating from 1769, was originally a market
house.
The Queen’s University, with its Tudor cloister, dominates the southern sec-
tor of the city. The original edifice was built in 1849 by Charles Lanyon, who
designed more of Belfast’s buildings than anyone else. The university was named
for Queen Victoria, who visited Belfast in that year and had just about every-
thing named in her honor for the occasion—dozens of streets, a hospital, a park,
a man-made island, and the harbor’s deepwater channel are all named after her.
Today the university enrolls 12,000 students and is the setting for the Belfast
Festival at Queen’s, one of Europe’s major annual arts events.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE For details, see “Getting to the North,” in section 1, ear-
lier in this chapter. Belfast has two airports—Belfast International and Belfast
City—and gets considerable sea traffic at Belfast Harbour and at Larne (30 min.
from Belfast by train, bus, or car).
From Belfast International Airport, nearly 31km (19 miles) north of the city,
your best option is the Airbus coach into the city center. It operates daily, leaves
every half-hour, and costs £5 ($9.15) per person for a one-way ticket and £8
($15) for a round-trip. A taxi will run closer to £25 to £30 ($46–$55).
From Belfast City Airport, less than 6.4km (4 miles) from the city center,
there are several options. The most convenient is a taxi, which costs roughly £6
($11) to get into the city. You can also take Citybus no. 21 from the airport ter-
minal or the Sydenham Halt train from the station directly across from the air-
port, both for £1 ($1.85).
In Northern Ireland all roads really do lead to Belfast. It’s the point of origin
for the country’s principal motorways and also the rail hub of the North.
VISITOR INFORMATION Brochures, maps, and other data about Belfast
and the North are available from the Belfast Welcome Centre, at 47 Donegall
Place (& 028/9024-6609; www.gotobelfast.com). It’s open June through Sep-
tember, Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm and Sunday noon to 5pm; October
through May, Monday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm. The tourist information
desk at Belfast City Airport (& 028/9045-7745) is open year-round Monday
to Friday 5:30am to 10pm, Saturday 5:30am to 9pm, and Sunday 5:30am to
10pm. The desk at Belfast International Airport (& 028/9442-2888) is open
March to September daily 24 hours, October to February daily 6:30am to
11pm. If you’re wired, www.belfast.net is a comprehensive guide to the city, fea-
turing tourism, news, accommodations, events, and nightlife rubrics.
GETTING AROUND Citybus, Donegall Square West, Belfast (& 028/
9066-6630; www.citybus.co.uk), provides local bus service within the city.
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Departures are from Donegall Square East, West, and North, plus Upper Queen
Street, Wellington Place, Chichester Street, and Castle Street. There is an infor-
mation kiosk on Donegall Square West. Fares are determined by the number of
zones traversed. The maximum fare for city-center travel is £1.10 ($2). Multi-
ple-trip tickets, day tickets, and 7-day passes offer significant savings.
If you’ve brought a car into Belfast, it’s best to leave it parked at your hotel
and take public transportation or walk around the city. If you must drive and
want to park your car downtown, look for a blue P sign that shows a parking lot
or a parking area. Belfast has a number of “control zones,” indicated by a pink-
and-yellow sign, where no parking is permitted. In general, on-street parking is
limited to an area behind City Hall (south side), St. Anne’s Cathedral (north
side), and around Queen’s University and Ulster Museum.
Taxis are available at all main rail stations, ports, and airports, and in front of
City Hall. Most metered taxis are London-type black cabs with a yellow disc on
the window. Other taxis may not have meters, so you should ask the fare to your
destination in advance. Except for reasonably inexpensive service down the
Shankill Road and the Falls Road, Belfast taxi fares are on the high side, with a
£2 ($3.65) minimum and an additional £1 ($1.85) per mile.
Belfast is a good city for walking. To guide visitors on the best and safest areas
for a stroll, the Belfast City Council has produced five self-guided walking-tour
leaflets. They are city center south to Shaftesbury Square, city center north to
the Irish News office, Shaftesbury Square south to the university area, city cen-
ter northeast to the port area, and Donegall Square south to Donegall Pass. Each
walk is about a mile and lasts an hour. Ask for a leaflet for the walk or walks that
interest you at the Belfast Welcome Centre.
FAST FACTS The U.S. consulate general is at Queen’s House, 14 Queen’s
St., Belfast BT1 (& 028/9032-8239). For other embassies and consulates, see
“Fast Facts: Northern Ireland,” above.
In an emergency, dial & 999 for fire, police, and ambulance. The most cen-
tral hospital is Shaftesbury Square Hospital, 116–120 Great Victoria St. (& 028/
9032-9808). Farther south, on Lisburn Road, is Belfast City Hospital (& 028/
9032-9241). West of the city center on Grosvenor Road is the Royal Victoria
Hospital (& 028/9024-0503).
For surfing the Net, head to the ITxp Centre, 175–177 Ormeau Rd. (& 028/
9022-8111) where connections cost £2 ($3.65) per hour.
The main post office, the Belfast GPO (General Post Office) is at Castle
Place, at the intersection of Royal Avenue and Donegall Place. It’s open Mon-
day to Friday 9am to 5:30pm, Saturday 9am to 7pm.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Citybus Tours (& 028/9045-8484; www.citybus.co.uk) offers a 11⁄2-hour
Belfast City Tour that gives you a good overview of the city. It departs at 11am
Monday to Saturday from Castle Place, beside the GPO (post office), late June
to September. It costs £5 ($9.15) for adults, £4 ($7.35) for seniors and children,
and £13 ($24) for families. The 2-hour Black Taxi Tour is also very popular,
and disturbing—it encompasses local sites and stories of the barely historical
Troubles. The fare is £20 ($37) for the first two passengers, or £7.50 ($14) per
head for three or more passengers. If you’re interested in this tour, call Michael
at & 0800/052-3914 (toll-free in Britain) or 07860/127207 (mobile), or find
all the details at www.belfasttours.com.
B E L FA S T 505
Tips Meet the Locals

Brand-new and making a huge splash on the local tour scene is Belfast
Safaris (&028/9022-2925; www.belfastsafaris.com), an organization that
offers walking tours designed and led by locals for the ultimate authentic
Belfast experience. Tours are designed around visitors’ interests. Visitors
have three options: (a) standard guided walking tour of Belfast with a local,
£8 ($15) per person; (b) customized self-guided walking tour to include visit
at local greeter’s home, £15 ($27) per person; (c) customized guided walking
tour to include visit at local greeter’s home, £21 ($38) per person.
Historical Pub Tours of Belfast (& 028/9268-3665) departs twice a week

from the Crown Liquor Saloon on Great Victoria Street to pay visits to six pubs.
Tours begin Thursday at 7pm and Saturday at 4pm, take 2 hours, and cost £6
($11), not including drinks.
Belfast Botanic Gardens & Palm House Dating from 1828, these gar-
dens were established by the Belfast Botanic and Horticultural Society. Ten years
later they gained a glass house, or conservatory, designed by noted Belfast archi-
tect Charles Lanyon. Now known as the Palm House, this unique building is one
of the earliest examples of curvilinear cast-iron glass-house construction. It con-
tains many rare plant specimens, including such tropical plants as sugar cane, cof-
fee, cinnamon, banana, aloe, ivory nut, rubber, bamboo, guava, and the striking
bird-of-paradise flower. The Tropical Ravine, also known as the fernery, provides
a setting for plants to grow in a sunken glen. Take time to stroll in the surround-
ing outdoor gardens of roses and herbaceous borders, established in 1927.
Signposted from M1/M2 (Balmoral exit), Stranmillis Rd., County Antrim. & 028/9032-4902. Free admission.
Palm House and Tropical Ravine Apr–Sept Mon–Fri 10am–noon, daily 1–5pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Fri 10am–noon,
daily 1–4pm. Gardens daily 8am–sunset. Bus: 61, 71, 84, or 85.
Belfast Castle Northwest of downtown and 120m (400 ft.) above sea
level stands Belfast Castle, whose 80-hectare (200-acre) estate spreads down the
slopes of Cave Hill. The castle, which affords panoramic views of Belfast Lough
and the city, was completed in 1870. It was the family residence of the third
marquis of Donegall, and was presented to the city of Belfast in 1934 and used
for private functions. After extensive restoration, the castle reopened to the pub-
lic in 1988; 2 years later its cellars were transformed into a Victorian arcade,
including an antiques and craft shop, a bar, and a bistro restaurant. The exten-
sive grounds include a public park, which is ideal for walking, jogging, picnick-
ing, and enjoying extraordinary views of the city.
Signposted off the Antrim Rd., 4km (21⁄2 miles) north of the city center, County Antrim. & 028/9077-6925.
Free admission and parking. Castle Mon–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 9am–6pm.
Belfast Zoo Kids In a picturesque mountain park on the slopes of Cave

Hill overlooking the city, this zoo was founded in 1920 as Bellevue Gardens. A
completely new, modern zoo was built in recent years. It emphasizes conserva-
tion, education, and breeding rare species, including Hawaiian geese, Indian
lions, red lechwe, and golden lion tamarinds.
8km (5 miles) north of the city on A6, Antrim Rd., County Antrim. & 028/9077-6277. www.belfastzoo.co.uk.
Admission £6.40 ($12) adults, £3.20 ($5.85) children 4–18, £18 ($32) families. Free for seniors and children
under 4. Apr–Sept daily 10am–7pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–4:30pm. Bus: 9, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, or 51.
Tips Tracing Your Roots

Contact the Ulster Historical Foundation, Balmoral Buildings, 12 College
Sq. E., Belfast BTI 6DD (& 028/9033-2288; fax 028/9023-9885; www.
uhf.org.uk), for help in tracking down Irish ancestors, particularly in
Belfast, County Antrim, and County Down. The staff will furnish a list of
helpful publications and help you find the appropriate genealogical
source. A brand-new, excellent genealogy resource covering all 32 coun-
ties on the island is the Irish Family History Foundation’s Internet site at
www.irishroots.net. Much of the archived information is free for your
perusal, and you can also avail of researchers to do the work for you. Ini-
tial searches cost from €75 ($93) and comprehensive family searches cost
from €250 ($310). See also “Tracing Your Irish Roots” in chapter 2.
Two private organizations that can also help are Irish Genealogical Serv-
ices, 56 Bradbury Place, Belfast B17 1RU (& 028/9024-1412; fax 028/
9023-9972); and Historical Research Associates, Glen Cottage, Glenmachan
Road, Belfast BT4 2NP (& 028/9076-1490). For a list of members and details
of services for the Association of Ulster Genealogists and Record Agents,
write AUGRA, Glen Cottage, Glenmachan Road, Belfast BT4 2NP.
Cave Hill Country Park Kids This lovely park atop a 360m (1,200-ft.)
basalt cliff, said to resemble the profile of Napoleon (a Gallic Mount Rushmore
in Ireland?), offers panoramic views, walking trails, and a number of interesting
archaeological and historical sights. There are the Neolithic caves that gave the
hill its name, and MacArt’s Fort, an ancient earthwork built against the Vikings.
In this fort, in 1795, Wolfe Tone and fellow United Irishmen planned the 1798
rebellion. On a lighter note, there’s an adventure playground for the kids.
Off the Antrim Rd., 6.5km (4 miles) north of city center, County Antrim. Parking at Belfast Castle or Belfast
Zoo (above).
City Hall Completed in 1906, this magnificent public building is the

core of Belfast, the axis around which the city radiates. It was built of Portland
stone after Queen Victoria granted Belfast the status of a city in 1888. Similar
to an American state capitol (except for the big statue of Queen Victoria at the
front), it dominates the main shopping area.
Donegall Sq., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9027-0456. Free admission. Guided tours June–Sept Mon–Fri
11am, 2pm, and 3pm, Sat 2:30pm; Oct–May Mon–Sat 11am and 2:30pm. Otherwise by arrangement. Reser-
vations required.
Ormeau Baths Gallery Occupying the site of, and partly incorporating,
the old Victorian swimming baths designed by Robert Watt, Ormeau Baths
Gallery opened in 1995 as the city’s principal exhibition space for contemporary
visual art. This striking and versatile facility can program multiple simultaneous
exhibitions in a variety of media, and has become the premier showcase for the
best of Northern Irish contemporary art.
18A Ormeau Ave., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9032-1402. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm.
Ulster Museum Built in the grand Classical Renaissance style, with an

Italian marble interior, this museum summarizes 9,000 years of Irish history with
exhibits on art, furniture, ceramics, costume, industrial heritage, and a perma-
nent display of products “Made in Belfast.” One of the best-known exhibits is the
B E L FA S T 507
collection of gold and silver jewelry recovered by divers in 1968 off the Antrim
coast from the 1588 wreckage of the Armada treasure ship Girona. Other per-
manent collections focus on water wheels and steam engines, linen making, the
post office, coins and medals, early Ireland, flora and fauna, and the living sea.
Signposted from M1/M2 (Balmoral exit); next to the Botanic Gardens, Stranmillis Rd., County Antrim.
& 028/9038-3000. Free admission, except to major special exhibitions. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat 1–5pm;
Sun 2–5pm. Bus: 61, 71, 84, or 85.
SHOPPING
Shops in Belfast city center are generally open Monday to Saturday 9am to
5:30pm, with many shops remaining open until 8 or 9pm on Thursday.
A great place to start your spree is Craftworks Gallery, Bedford House, Bed-
ford Street (& 028/9024-4465), a one-stop showcase and shop for the work of
individual craftspeople from all over Northern Ireland. The gallery can supply a
free copy of the brochure “Crafts in Northern Ireland,” detailing local crafts and
where to find them. It is just behind Belfast City Hall.
The main shopping street is Royal Avenue, home of well-known names such
as Waterstone’s, Jaeger, and Virgin Megastore. The Castlecourt Shopping Cen-
tre on Royal Avenue is Belfast’s main downtown multistory shopping mall and
the largest in Northern Ireland, with more than 70 boutiques and shops.
Belfast’s leading department stores are Anderson & McAuley and Marks &
Spencer, both on Donegall Place, and Debenham’s in the Castlecourt Shopping
Centre on Royal Avenue. Other shops to look for include the following:
St. George’s Market This is Belfast’s original “Variety Market,” dating from
the 19th century and now standing across from the new Waterfront Hall. The
market was completely restored in 1999, and is a colorful outlet for fresh fruit,
flowers, fish, vegetables, clothing, crafts, and lots more. Open Tuesday and Fri-
day starting at 8am. May St. at Oxford St., Belfast & 028/9043-5704.
Smyth’s Irish Linens If you want to stock up on fine Irish linen damask
tablecloths, napkins, and handkerchiefs, head for this shop in the heart of the
city’s prime shopping thoroughfare. It also stocks other traditional gift items and
souvenirs, and offers VAT-free export. 65 Royal Ave., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/
9024-2232.
The Steensons This is the main showroom of Bill and Christina Steenson,
two of the most celebrated goldsmiths in Ireland. On display and for sale is the
widest collection anywhere of the Steensons’ unique gold and silver jewelry, as
well as work by a select number of top designers from afar. Bedford St. (behind Belfast
City Hall), Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9024-8269.
Tom Caldwell Gallery Come here for a selection of paintings, sculptures,
and ceramics by living artists, as well as handcrafted furnishings, rugs, and cast-
iron candelabras. Open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 5pm, Saturday from
10am to 1pm. 40 Bradbury Place, Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9032-3226.
FISHING The 8.9km (51⁄2-mile) stretch of the Lagan River from Stranmillis
weir to Shaw’s Bridge offers decent coarse fishing, especially on summer
evenings. From May to July, Lough Neagh has good shore and boat fishing.
Contact Paddy Prunty at the Kinnego Marina, Oxford Island, Craigavon
(& 028/3832-7573). For info, tackle, and bait, try the Village Tackle Shop,
55a Newtownbreda Rd., Belfast (& 028/9049-1916).
GOLF The Belfast area offers four 18-hole courses within 6.5km (4 miles) of
the city center. Some 4.8km (3 miles) southwest of the city, there’s the Balmoral
Golf Club, 518 Lisburn Rd., Belfast (& 028/9038-1514), with greens fees of
£20 ($37) weekdays (except Wed), £24 ($44) Wednesday, and £30 ($55) week-
ends. About 6.5km (4 miles) southwest of the city center is the Dunmurry Golf
Club, 91 Dunmurry Lane, Dunmurry, Belfast (& 028/9061-0834; www.
dunmurrygolfclub.co.uk), £27 ($49) weekdays, £37 ($68) weekends. About
4.8km (3 miles) south of the city center is the Belvoir Park Golf Club, 73
Church Rd., Newtownbreda, Belfast (& 028/9049-1693), £45 ($82) week-
days, £55 ($101) weekends; and 4.8km (3 miles) north, the Fortwilliam Golf
Club, Downview Avenue, Belfast (& 028/9037-0770; www.fortwilliam.co.uk),
£22 ($40) weekdays, £29 ($53) weekends. Weekdays are usually better for visi-
tors, and each club has preferred weekdays. Phone ahead. Club pros offer les-
sons, usually for about £25 ($46) per hour; book at least 2 days ahead.
HORSEBACK RIDING Saddle up at the Drumgooland House Equestrian
Centre, 29 Dunnanew Rd., Seaforde, Downpatrick, County Down (& 028/
4481-1956; www.activityholidaysireland.com). It offers half- and full-day forest
treks and beach rides. Full equestrian holidays are available.
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Culloden Hotel The Belfast area’s finest hotel is not in the city itself,
but 8km (5 miles) east on the shore of Belfast Lough, in County Down. Set on
4.8 hectares (12 acres) of secluded gardens and woodlands, this hotel was origi-
nally built as a palace for the bishops of Down. Later, it was sold and remained
a private home until it opened as a hotel in 1963. The place is overflowing with
luxurious—no, make that palatial—style, complete with many fine antiques and
paintings, plasterwork ceilings, Louis XV chandeliers, and exceptional service.
Guest rooms offer contemporary furnishings with lovely designer upholsteries,
and many enjoy views of Belfast Lough.
142 Bangor Rd., County Down. & 028/9042-1066. Fax 028/9042-6777. www.hastingshotels.com. 79 units.
£200–£220 ($367–$403) double. Continental breakfast £9 ($17); full breakfast £12 ($22). AE, DC, MC, V. Free
valet parking. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; indoor swimming pool; tennis court; gym; Jacuzzi;
steam room; bicycle rental; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry service; beauty treatments. In room:
TV, hair dryer, garment press.
Europa Hotel In the heart of the city beside the Grand Opera House
and the start of Belfast’s “Golden Mile,” this is the city’s largest and most mod-
ern hotel. Total renovation of this landmark hotel was completed in 1995, after
it was damaged in a 1993 bombing. The Europa was host to Bill Clinton, the
first U.S. president to visit Northern Ireland, during his stay in Belfast. The
guest rooms, though modern, are luxuriously appointed in a traditional style
with mahogany furnishings, opulent fabrics, and marble bathrooms. A recent
extension added 56 new guest rooms, bringing the total to 240.
Great Victoria St., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9027-1066. Fax 028/9032-7800. www.hastingshotels.
com. 240 units. £170–£190 ($312–$348) double. Luxury suites available. Continental breakfast £9 ($17); full
breakfast £12 ($22). AE, DC, MC, V. Free valet parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants (Continental, brasserie); bar;
access to nearby health club; concierge; room service; babysitting; laundry service. In room: TV, tea/
coffeemaker, hair dryer.
TENsq This funky boutique hotel is Belfast’s swingingest, hippest place

to stay, with a celebrity clientele that includes the Corrs. TENsq (pronounced
ten square) aims to emulate this Asian luxury of Shanghai’s Pudong district.
B E L FA S T 509

Low-level beds with white comforters and dark headboards lie on cream coir
carpet. Armoires, shutters, and double doors are all inlaid with white opal
glass. The overall feel is one of luxurious, elegant minimalism. Downstairs,
there’s a quartet of restaurants and bars that have become buzzy meeting places
for hip Belfasters: A cutting-edge, excellent Asian fusion restaurant called
Porcelain; a gourmet sandwich bar; a sleek city bar called BARred that’s one of
the city’s top nightspots; and the China Club, an exclusive member’s bar (open
to guests).
10 Donegall Sq., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9024-1001. Fax 028/9024-3210. www.ten-sq.com. 23
units. £160–£240 ($293–$440) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Street parking only. Amenities: 2
restaurants (fusion, deli); 2 bars; concierge. In room: TV, hair dryer.
The McCausland Hotel Whereas the Europa is huge and modern, the
McCausland is the more intimate, boutique option in a historic setting. Both
hotels are luxurious, but the McCausland feels more personal and exclusive
(there’s even butler service). The hotel was magnificently created from two clas-
sically ornate Italianate warehouses designed by William Hastings in the mid-
1850s, and many stunning architectural details remain. Already listed among
the “Small Luxury Hotels of the World,” the McCausland offers sophistication
and comfort. The guest rooms are spacious and beautifully decorated in warm,
Mediterranean tones, with oak furnishings and quality fabrics. Note: As we go
to press, the rumor mill has it that the upscale boutique hotel group Malmaison
is on the verge of taking over the McCausland.
34–38 Victoria St., Belfast, County Antrim. & 800/525-4800 in the U.S. or 028/9022-0200. Fax
028/9022-0220. 59 units. £140 ($257) double; £180 ($330) junior suite. Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE,
DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (Continental, cafe); access to health club; concierge; 24-hr. room serv-
ice; nonsmoking rooms; foreign currency exchange; twice-daily maid service. In room: TV, dataport, tea/cof-
feemaker, minibar, hair dryer, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Ash Rowan On a quiet, tree-lined street in a residential neighborhood,
this four-story Victorian house sits near Queen’s University. The proprietors,
the Hazletts, recently determined that this was once the home of Thomas
Andrews, a designer of the Titanic, who went down with the ship on her
maiden voyage. Evelyn Hazlett has outfitted it with country-style furnishings,
family heirlooms, and antiques, along with bouquets of fresh flowers from the
garden. Beds are exceptionally firm and dressed in fine Irish linens. The mood
here is relaxed and old-style, with morning papers and late breakfasts. The rates
include a choice of 12 traditional breakfasts, including the “Ulster fry” (scram-
bled eggs, smoked salmon, kippers), or several vegetarian options which
include the likes of flambéed mushrooms. The location is ideal, just a short
stroll into the city center.
12 Windsor Ave. (between Lisburn and Malone roads), Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9066-1758. Fax
028/9066-3227. 5 units. £66–£96 ($121–$176) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Private park-
ing. In room: TV.
Tips Your Own Private Hideaway

Hoping to stay somewhere off the beaten path? The Irish Landmark Trust
(in the Republic & 01/670-4733; www.irishlandmark.com), our favorite
source of unique rental accommodations on the Emerald Isle, has just the
ticket. The irrepressibly charming Ballealy Cottage sits just 8km (5 miles)
from Belfast International Airport in Ballealy, in County Antrim. It was
originally built as the lodge for the castle’s games keeper, and is tucked
deep into the Randalstown Forest on the magnificent Shanes Castle
Estate. The house has an endearingly irregular architectural style in the
high Victorian folly tradition, with octagonal chimneypots, hipped
rooflines, mullioned transom windows, and countless gables. Inside, there
is a hodgepodge of half-landings, shuttered windows, mahogany
antiques, and enough books and interesting objets d’art to keep even the
most curious guest engaged for weeks. The house sleeps five to seven peo-
ple in three bedrooms with lovely old brass beds, and is surrounded by the
forest and its wildlife (deer regularly visit the cottage yards). The dining
room features a wonderful Stanley range that heats the entire house
(there’s also a modern electric oven range in the galley kitchen, along with
a washing machine). But the best room in the house is the enormous bath-
room where a giant claw-foot tub commands center stage. Rates are £290
to £420 ($532–$770) per week, depending on season.
INEXPENSIVE
Ashberry Cottage Value “Cozy” is the word for Hilary and Sam Mitchell’s
modern bungalow, and you’ll be completely spoiled from the moment they greet
you with a welcome tray of tea and goodies. Not only do they both know the
Belfast area well, but Hilary works for the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and
is well qualified to help you plan your travels throughout the province. Guest
rooms are attractive and very comfortable. Sam is the morning cook, and his
breakfasts are legendary. Evening meals also draw raves from guests. Sam will
meet you at the airport or railway station with advance notice.
19 Rosepark Central, Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9028-6300. 3 units, 1 with bathroom. £40 ($73) dou-
ble. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. Take A20 to Rosepark, the 2nd turn on the right
past the Stormont Hotel. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
Alden’s FUSION Alden’s is one of the most consistently good, exciting
places to eat out in Ireland. Chef Cathy Gradwell’s cooking is full of punch and
yet thoughtfully restrained, not half-cocked as so many fusion pretenders can be.
Start with something suitably complex to put you in the right frame of mind—
perhaps the terrific grilled squid with black-bean dressing and bok choy. Then
follow with something slightly more subtle, such as the pan-fried scallops with
noodle salad and chile dressing—one of those dishes you keep returning to each
time you visit. Desserts are wonderful, the wine list intelligent, the staff eager to
please.
229 Upper Newtownards Rd., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9065-0079. Reservations recommended. Din-
ner main courses £12–£16 ($22–$29). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat
6–11pm.
B E L FA S T 511
Cayenne FUSION Prepare for culinary liftoff. Chef-owner Paul Rankin

is one of this island’s cleverest, most imaginative chefs and is famous for pairing
the best of Ulster produce with exotic combinations of ingredients. His book,
Hot Food, is full of fun, wildly enticing fusion recipes and the resulting dishes
appear on the extremely extensive menu here—starters, soups, pastas, risottos,
main courses, and desserts. Stellar main courses include chargrilled calamari
with chorizo and arugula; duck confit with cucumber-and-lemon-grass salad;
and miso-glazed salmon with spinach and soy-lime vinaigrette. If possible, save
room for the lovingly prepared vanilla panna cotta (Italian pastry) or the honey-
comb ice cream.
7 Lesley House, Shaftesbury Sq., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9033-1532. www.cayennerestaurant.com.
Reservations required. Main courses £11–£18 ($20–$33). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:15pm; Mon–Thurs
6–10pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm; Sun 5–8:45pm.
James Street South MODERN IRISH This is the table of the

moment. There’s an elegant, minimalist interior, with a smattering of modern
artworks and narrow mirrors on the cream walls, and enormous floor-to-ceiling
arched windows overlooking James Street South. This place is a hit because of
the terrific cooking, which delivers modern classics with an Irish twist. Try the
sea bass with seared scallops or spring lamb drizzled with rosemary and mint jus.
And whatever you do, don’t pass on a side order of champ—mashed spuds with
spring onions laced through it, Irish style. Portions are generous, the wine list
excellent, the crowd rapturous.
21 James St. S., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9043-4310. www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk. Reservations
required. Main courses £12–£20 ($22–$37). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:45pm; Mon–Sat 5:45–10:45pm.
Restaurant Michael Deane FUSION There are actually two separate

establishments at Michael Deane’s: the brasserie, where the cooking has been
inconsistent in recent times, and the baroque restaurant where the Michelin-
star-winning chef himself, Michael Deane, presides over the stove for dinner
from Wednesday to Sunday. This place is more formal than most Irish estab-
lishments; to some this is a welcome change, to others, it’s off-putting. But come
for the food, for there’s no arguing that Deane’s cooking is modern and sublime,
a hip pairing of Asian ingredients with classic French methods. Deane’s signa-
ture dishes include a carpaccio of salmon with grilled scallops, sticky rice, and
cucumber; confit of eggplant with goat’s cheese that’s melt-in-your-mouth delec-
table; roasted scallops with a velouté of Jerusalem artichokes; and a filet of beef
with lemon-grass-infused mashed spuds and (gulp) haggis.
38–40 Howard Place, Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9033-1134. Reservations required. www.deanes
belfast.com. 2-course dinner menu: £33 ($60). Dinner main courses £14–£20 ($26–$37). AE, DC, MC, V.
Wed–Sun 7–9:30pm.
Nick’s Warehouse INTERNATIONAL In an old warehouse between
St. Anne’s Cathedral and the tourist office, this extremely popular place offers a
worldview of rib-sticking, soulful, hearty food. Nick Price gets his influence
from everywhere—you might see Scandinavian dishes on the menu alongside
Mediterranean ones—but he is clear-headed enough to be true to each individ-
ual dish. There’s a wine bar setting downstairs and a classy dining room upstairs,
with brick walls and an open kitchen. Appetizers run from gazpacho to curly
kale soup to a platter of Italian salami or gravlax (cured Norwegian salmon).
Main courses include sirloin steaks, lamb chops with honey-and-ginger sauce,
and filet of salmon with fennel hollandaise.
35 Hill St., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9043-9690. www.nickswarehouse.co.uk. Reservations recom-
mended. Main courses £7–£17 ($13–$31). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 6–9:30pm (drinks
until midnight).
INEXPENSIVE
Flour Crepe Room 46 CREPERIE One block west of City Hall is Upper
Queen Street, home of the best little creperie in Belfast. Whether you like sweet
or savory fillings, the kitchen will make your crepe to order just the way you like
it. There’s a great selection of smoothies and juices, too.
46 Upper Queen St., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9033-9966. Main courses £5–£8 ($9.15–$15). MC, V.
Mon–Sat noon–8pm.
BELFAST AFTER DARK

PUBS & CLUBS
Pub hours are generally Monday to Saturday from 11:30am to 11pm and Sun-
day from 12:30 to 2:30pm and from 7 to 10pm. Children are not permitted on
licensed premises. Nightclubs tend to open after the pubs close; admission
ranges from £3 to £10 ($5.50–$18) depending on the night.
Crown Liquor Saloon Finds This is the jewel in Northern Ireland’s crown of
pubs. Dating from 1826 and situated opposite the Europa Hotel and the Grand
Opera House, this gaslit pub has what many architecture buffs believe to be the
finest example of Victorian Gothic decor found anywhere. Owned by the
National Trust and run by Bass Ireland, the pub boasts stained-glass windows,
which lend a marvelous baroque-cathedral feel when the sun is out. There’s a tin
ceiling, a tile floor, etched and smoked glass, a beveled mirror with floral and
wildlife decorations, scalloped lamps, and a long bar with inlaid colored glass and
marble trim. Of special note is the array of 10 snugs on the right, each guarded
by a mythological beast with an armor shield. Inside each room are all the accou-
terments any good Victorian could hope for: gunmetal plates for striking
matches, little windows to peep discreetly out of, and even an antique system of
bells to summon service. Great Victoria St., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9027-9901.
La Lea This is Belfast’s most stylish and prestigious nightclub. The place is an
eye-popping, sensory experience, with classic architecture, soaring ceilings, and
a huge Buddha head hanging above the dance floor as incense burns and bodies
dance the night away. The private bar evokes the interior of a Bedouin tent.
There’s a strict door policy, and you’ll have a better chance of getting in if you’re
dressed to the hilt. 43 Franklin St., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9023-0200.
www.lalea.com.
Milk Bar Club Set in the city’s Cathedral quarter, this is one of Belfast’s
hottest nightclubs, with music 7 nights a week and a devoted 20-something
clientele. Inside, you’ll find a riot of color, energy, and noise—everything from
house and disco to R & B. 10–14 Tomb St., Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9027-8876.
www.clubmilk.com.
Pat’s Bar For a taste of Belfast’s harbor atmosphere, join the sailors, dockers,
and local businesspeople at this pub at the gates of Prince’s Dock. You’ll see an
antique hand-carved beech bar, pinewood furnishings, a red-tile floor, and
black-and-white photos of the pub’s earliest days. There’s an interesting collec-
tion of memorabilia given to the bar’s owner by sailors passing through the
port—clogs, swords, tom-toms and maracas, a telescope, and a bayonet. There’s
S I D E T R I P S F R O M B E L FA S T 513
traditional Irish music on Friday and Saturday night at 9pm. 19 Prince’s Dock St.,
Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9074-4524.
White’s Tavern Tucked into a historic cobblestone trading lane, this old tav-
ern was established in 1630 as a wine and spirit shop. It’s full of old barrels and
hoists, ornate snugs, brick arches, large copper measures, framed newspaper clip-
pings of 200-year-old vintage, quill pens, and other memorabilia. It’s a good pub
for conversation and browsing, and features traditional music as well as quiz
nights, darts, and theme nights. 2–4 Winecellar Entry (between High and Rosemary sts.),
Belfast, County Antrim. & 028/9033-0988.
THE PERFORMING ARTS

For up-to-date listings of shows and concerts, there are several sources. That’s
Entertainment is free and widely available at tourist offices and pubs, as are the
Big List and Artslink. And there’s always the Belfast Daily Telegraph and the Irish
News. Also, both the www.gotobelfast.com and the www.belfast.net sites have
very useful “events” and “nightlife” pages.
The latest, largest venue to appear on the arts scene is the Belfast Waterfront
Hall, Oxford Street, Laganside (& 028/9033-4455 for credit card reservations
or 028/9033-4400 for program information; www.waterfront.co.uk). The other
leading concert and performance halls in Belfast are the Grand Opera House,
Great Victoria Street (& 028/9024-1919; www.goh.co.uk), which presents a
wide variety of entertainment; Ulster Hall, Bedford Street (& 028/9032-3900;
www.ulsterhall.co.uk), which stages major concerts from rock to large-scale
choral and symphonic works by the Ulster Orchestra and Northern Ireland
Symphony Orchestra; and Kings Hall Exhibition and Conference Centre,
Balmoral (& 028/9066-5225; www.kingshall.co.uk), for superstar concerts and
other musical events, as well as everything from sheep sales to bridal fairs.
Theaters include the Lyric Theatre, Ridgeway Street (& 028/9038-1081;
www.lyrictheatre.co.uk), for new plays by Irish and international playwrights;
and the Group Theatre, part of Ulster Hall on Bedford Street (& 028/
9032-9685; www.ulsterhall.co.uk), for performances by local drama societies.
For stand-up comedy, the Belfast epicenter is in the basement of the Empire
Music Hall, 42 Botanic (& 028/9032-8110). It’s home every Tuesday at 9pm to
The Empire Laughs Back. If you’d rather sit down than stand up, get there at least
an hour early. Another occasional comedy venue is the Old Museum Arts Cen-
tre, College Square North (& 028/9023-5053; www.oldmuseumartscentre.org).
Tickets, which cost £8 to £30 ($15–$55) for most events, can be purchased
in advance from the Virgin Ticket Shop, Castle Court, Belfast (& 028/
9032-3744), or online at www.ticketmaster.ie. (You can always arrange to have
tickets purchased online delivered to your hotel.)
3 Side Trips from Belfast

CARRICKFERGUS
Carrickfergus is 19km (12 miles) NE of Belfast
It’s said that Carrickfergus, County Antrim, was a thriving town when Belfast
was a sandbank. In 1180 John de Courcy, a Norman, built a massive keep at
Carrickfergus, the first real Irish castle, to guard the approach to Belfast Lough.
Stop into the Carrickfergus Tourist Information Office, Heritage Plaza,
Antrim Street, Carrickfergus, County Antrim (& 028/9336-6455). It’s open all
year Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm.
Andrew Jackson Centre This simple one-story cottage with earthen floor
and open fireplace was the ancestral home of Andrew Jackson, seventh president
of the United States. His parents emigrated to the United States in 1765. The
house now contains a display on the life and career of Andrew Jackson and
Ulster’s connections with America. On weekends in July and August, there are
craft demonstrations reflecting rural folk life, such as sampler making, basket
weaving, griddle making, quilting, and lace making.
Boneybefore, Carrickfergus, County Antrim. & 028/9336-6455. Admission £1.50 ($2.75) adults, 75p ($1.35)
seniors and children, £4 ($7.35) families. June–Sept Mon–Fri 10am–1pm, daily 2–6pm; reduced hours in
Apr–May and Oct. Closed Nov–Mar.
Carrickfergus Castle This remarkably well preserved and formidable

castle, with Ireland’s oldest Norman keep, strikes a menacing pose at the strate-
gic entrance to Belfast Lough. The site’s guides, audiovisual presentation, and
exhibits help visitors imagine and consider the castle’s turbulent past. In the
summer, medieval banquets, a medieval fair, and a crafts market are held, adding
a touch of play and pageantry. Gifts and refreshments are also available.
Marine Hwy., Antrim St., Carrickfergus, County Antrim. & 028/9335-1273. Admission £3 ($5.50) adults,
£1.50 ($2.75) seniors and children, £8 ($15) families. Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm;
Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 2–4pm.
CULTRA
11km (7 miles) E of Belfast
Ulster Folk & Transport Museum Kids This 70-hectare (176-acre)
site, which brings together many parts of Ulster’s past, is deservedly one of the
North’s most popular attractions. Twenty-four hectares (60 acres) are devoted to
a unique outdoor folk museum featuring a collection of 19th-century buildings,
all saved from the bulldozer’s path and moved intact from their original sites in
various parts of Northern Ireland. You can walk among centuries-old farm-
houses, mills, and churches; climb to the terraces of houses; and peruse rural
schools, a forge, a bank, a print shop, and more. Actors in period dress reenact
tasks of daily life—cooking over an open hearth, plowing the fields with horses,
thatching roofs, and practicing traditional Ulster crafts such as textile making,
spinning, quilting, lace making, printing, spade making, and shoemaking. The
transport museum’s collection ranges from donkey carts to De Loreans, and
includes an exhibit on the Belfast-built Titanic. The exhibit on Irish railways is
considered one of the top 10 of its kind in Europe.
153 Bangor Rd. (11km/7 miles northeast of Belfast on the A2), Cultra, Holywood, County Down. & 028/
9042-8428 or 028/9042-1444 for 24-hr. information. www.nidex.com/uftm. Day ticket to both museums £7
($13) adults, £3 ($5.50) seniors, students, and children, £18 ($33) families. Mar–June Mon–Fri 10am–5pm,
Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; July–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; Oct–Feb Mon–Fri
10am–4pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm.
THE ARDS PENINSULA

The Ards Peninsula, beginning about 16km (10 miles) east of Belfast, curls around
the western shore of Strangford Lough , and at 29km (18 miles) long is one of
the largest sea inlets in the British Isles. A place of great natural beauty, the penin-
sula boasts a wonderful bird sanctuary and wildlife reserve, and its shores are home
to many species of marine life. Two roads traverse the peninsula: A20 (the Lough
road) and A2 (the coast road). The Lough road is the more scenic.
At the southern tip of the Lough, continuous car ferry service connects Porta-
ferry with the Strangford Ferry Terminal (& 028/4488-1637), in Strangford,
on the mainland side. It runs every half-hour, weekdays 7:30am to 10:30pm,
Saturday 8am to 11pm, Sunday 9:30am to 10:30pm. No reservations are

needed. A one-way trip takes 5 minutes and costs £5 ($9.15) for a car and driver,
£1 ($1.85) for each additional passenger.
The Portaferry Tourist Information Office, Shore Street, near the Strang-
ford ferry departure point (& 028/4272-9882), is open Monday to Saturday
10am to 5:30pm, Sunday 1 to 6pm. There are two National Trust properties in
this area, one on the Ards Peninsula and the other just across the lough at Porta-
ferry. For a wealth of excellent information about where to stay, eat, and play on
the peninsula, visit the region’s website at www.kingdomsofdown.com.
Castle Espie Kids This marvelous center, owned and managed by the
Wildlife and Wetlands Trust, is home to a virtual U.N. of geese, ducks, and
swans, many of which are extraordinarily rare. Many are so accustomed to visi-
tors that they will eat grain from your hand. Children can have the disarming
experience of meeting Hooper swans eye-to-eye. Guided trails are specially
designed for children and families, and the center sponsors a host of activities
and events throughout the year. The reserve is also, in the words of center man-
ager James Orr, a “honey pot” for serious bird-watchers in search of waterfowl.
Up to 3,000 pale-bellied brent can be seen in early winter. The center’s book and
gift shop is enticing for naturalists of all ages, and the restaurant serves deli-
ciously diverting lunches and home-baked sweets.
78 Ballydrain Rd., Comber, County Down. & 028/9187-4146. Admission £4.40 ($8.05) adults, £3.60 ($6.60)
seniors and students, £2.70 ($4.95) children, £12 ($21) families. Mar–Sept Mon–Fri 10:30am–5:30pm,
Sat–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Oct–Feb Mon–Fri 11am–4pm, Sat–Sun 11am–4:30pm. 21km (13 miles) southeast of
Belfast, signposted from the A22 Comber-Killyleagh-Downpatrick rd.
Castle Ward Situated 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) west of Strangford village, this
National Trust house dates from 1760 and is half classical and half Gothic in
architectural style. It sits on a 280-hectare (700-acre) country estate of formal
gardens, woodlands, lake lands, and seashore. A restored 1830s corn mill and a
Victorian-style laundry are on the grounds, and the theater in the stable yard is
a venue for operatic performances in summer.
Strangford, County Down. & 028/4488-1204. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Admission to house, gardens, and
grounds £4.70 ($8.60) adults, £1.80 ($3.30) children, £9.90 ($18) families. House Apr–May and Sept–Oct
Sat–Sun 1–6pm; June daily 1–6pm; July–Aug daily noon–6pm.
Exploris Kids Northern Ireland’s aquarium concentrates on the rich diversity

of life found in Strangford Lough and the nearby Irish Sea. Displays include
models of the saltwater environment found beneath the surface of Strangford
Lough, as well as examples of thousands of species of local and regional sea life.
The newest addition is the seal sanctuary, a guaranteed crowd pleaser. The
aquarium complex contains a cafe and gift shop, a park, a picnic area, a chil-
dren’s playground, a bowling green, tennis courts, and woodlands.
Castle St., Portaferry, County Down. & 028/4272-8062. Admission £5 ($9.15) adults, £3 ($5.50) children,
£14 ($26) families. Apr–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 11am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; Sept–Mar Mon–Fri
10am–5pm, Sat 11am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm.
Giant’s Ring This massive prehistoric earthwork, 180m (600 ft.) in diameter,
has more or less at its center a megalithic chamber with a single capstone. It was
doubtlessly a significant focus of local cults as long as 5,000 years ago. Today this
2.8-hectare (7-acre) ritual enclosure is a place of wonder for the few who visit;
the site is largely neglected by tourists.
Ballynahatty, County Down. 8km (5 miles) southwest of Belfast center, west off A24; or 1.6km (1 mile) south
of Shaw’s Bridge, off B23.
Grey Abbey The impressive ruins of Grey Abbey enjoy a beautifully

landscaped setting, perfect for a picnic or just some quiet reflection. It was
founded in 1193 for the Cistercians and contained one of the earliest Gothic
churches in Ireland. True to Cistercian simplicity, there was and is very little
embellishment here, but the Cistercians, like the Shakers, knew well that
restraint is no impediment to beauty. All the same, amid the bare ruined choirs,
there is a fragmented stone effigy of a knight in armor, possibly a likeness of
John de Courcy, husband of the abbey’s founder, Affrica of Cumbria. There’s
also a small visitor center.
Greyabbey, County Down. No phone. Admission £1 ($1.55) adults, 50p (80¢) children. Apr–Sept Tues–Sat
10am–7pm, Sun 2–7pm. Closed Oct–Mar. On the east side of Greyabbey, 3.2km (2 miles) southeast of
Mt. Stewart.
Legananny Dolmen This renowned, impressive granite dolmen (Neolithic

tomb) on the southern slope of Slieve Croob looks, in the words of archaeologist
Peter Harbison, like “a coffin on stilts.” This is one of the most photographed dol-
mens in Ireland, but you have to see it up close to admire it fully. The massive cap-
stone seems almost weightlessly poised on its three supporting uprights.
Slieve Croob, County Down. Take A24 from Belfast to Ballynahinch, B7 to Dromara, then ask directions.
Mount Stewart House Once the home of Lord Castlereagh, this

18th-century house sits on the eastern shore of Strangford Lough. It has one of
the greatest gardens in the care of the National Trust, with an unrivaled collec-
tion of rare and unusual plants. The house is noteworthy for its artwork, includ-
ing Hambletonian by George Stubbs, one of the finest paintings in Ireland, and
family portraits by Batoni, Mengs, and Lazlo. The Temple of the Winds, a ban-
queting house built in 1785, is also on the estate, but it’s only open on public
holidays. The gardens of Mount Stewart has been nominated as a potential
World Heritage Site. Final selection (which can take years) would place it in the
company of such sites as the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China.
On the east shore of Strangford Lough, southeast of Newtownards, 24km (15 miles) southeast of Belfast, on
A20, Newtownards, County Down. & 028/4278-8387. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. House and garden
admission £5.20 ($9.55) adults, £2.50 ($4.60) children, £11 ($20) families. Garden admission £4.20 ($7.70)
adults, £2.20 ($4.05) children, £9.30 ($17) families. House Apr and Oct Sat–Sun 1–5pm; May–Sept Mon and
Wed–Sun 1–6pm. Garden mid-Mar Sun 10am–6pm; Apr–Sept daily 10am–8pm; Oct Sat–Sun 11am–6pm.
Bus: 9, 9A, or 10 from Laganside Bus Centre (Mon–Sat).

BICYCLING If you want to explore the area on your own two wheels, you
can rent bicycles for roughly £10 ($18) a day. Cycle rental by the day or week,
and delivery in the North Down/Ards area, are available from Mike the Bike,
53 Frances St., Newtownards (& 028/9181-1311). If you want some guidance
and companionship, contact Tony Boyd at The Emerald Trail Bicycle Tours,
15 Ballyknocken Rd., Saintfield (& 028/9081-3200; www.emeraldtrail.com).
DIVING The nearby loughs and offshore waters are a diver’s dream—remark-
ably clear and littered with wrecks. To charter a diving expedition in Strangford
Lough, contact Des Rogers (& 028/4272-8297). Norsemaid Charters, 152
Portaferry Rd., Newtownards, County Down (& 028/9181-2081), caters 4- to
10-day diving parties along the Northern Irish coast, in Belfast Lough and
Strangford Lough, amid the St. Kilda Isles and along the coast of Scotland. One
of Europe’s finest training centers, DV Diving, 138 Mountstewart Rd., New-
townards, County Down (& 028/9146-4671; www.dvdiving.co.uk), offers a
wide range of diving courses.
FISHING For info, tackle, and bait, try the Village Tackle Shop, 55a New-
townbreda Rd., Belfast (& 028/9049-1916), or H.W. Kelly, 54 Market St.,
Downpatrick, County Down (& 028/4461-2193). Sea-fishing trips from
Portaferry into the waters of Strangford Lough and along the County Down
coast are organized by Peter and Iris Wright, Norsemaid Sea Enterprises, 152
Portaferry Rd., Newtownards, County Down (& 028/9181-2081). Reserva-
tions are required. This company also offers diving charters, day cruises, hill-
walking, and wildlife cruises. To outfit yourself and fish for rainbow trout
year-round, visit Ballygrangee Fly Fishery, Mountstewart Road, Carrowdore,
County Down (& 028/4278-8883).
GOLF There are several well-established courses a short drive from Belfast in
north County Down. They include the Bangor Golf Club, Broadway, Bangor
(& 028/9127-0922), with greens fees of £27 ($49) weekdays, £33 ($60) week-
ends; Downpatrick Golf Club, 43 Saul Rd., Downpatrick (& 028/
4461-5947; www.golfeurope.com/clubs/downpatrick), with greens fees of £19
($35) weekdays, £24 ($44) weekends; and the 71-par Scrabo Golf Club, 233
Scrabo Rd., Newtownards (& 028/9181-2355; www.scrabo-golf-club.org),
with greens fees of £19 ($35) weekdays, £24 ($44) weekends.
W H E R E T O S TAY I N T H E A R E A
Moderate
Portaferry Hotel Set in a designated conservation area and incorporat-
ing a terrace dating from the mid–18th century, the Portaferry Hotel retains the
charm of a seasoned waterside inn while offering all the amenities of a modern
hotel. Guest rooms are in keeping with the hotel’s traditional character, with
dark woods and floral fabrics, which lend a slightly feminine feel. Many have
excellent views of the lough.
The Strand, Portaferry (47km/29 miles from Belfast), County Down. & 028/4272-8231. Fax 028/4272-8999.
www.portaferryhotel.com. 14 units. £90 ($165) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant (seafood); bar; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, radio, hair dryer.
Inexpensive
Ballycastle House Mrs. Margaret Deering’s home is a beautiful 300-year-
old farmhouse that has been elegantly refurbished. The guest rooms are nicely
appointed with pretty floral bedspreads and dark woods, and offer restful rural views.
A two-bedroom self-catering cottage is also available for £320 ($587) per week.
20 Mountstewart Rd. (8km/5 miles southeast of town on A20), Newtownards, County Down. &/fax
028/4278-8357. 3 units. £48 ($88) double. Children’s and senior discounts available. Rates include full
breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Laundry facilities; nonsmoking rooms; sitting room. In room: Tea/cof-
Edenvale House Just down the road from Mount Stewart House, with
distant views of Strangford Lough and the Mourne Mountains, this very wel-
coming Georgian country house is owned and run by Gordon and Diane
Whyte. Request one of the two front guest rooms, since they are the most
spacious—with either a four-poster or king-size bed, good-size bathrooms, large
dressing rooms, and far-reaching views across the lough. The other guest room
is smaller but extremely attractive, with garden views and a shower-only bath-
room. Breakfasts are excellent and the entire house is nonsmoking.
130 Portaferry Rd., Newtownards, County Down (3.2km/2 miles from Newtownards on A20). & 028/
9181-4881. Fax 028/9181-6192. www.edenvalehouse.com. 3 units (1 shower only). £60 ($110) double.
Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Christmas. Amenities: Drawing room; gardens. In room: TV,
WHERE TO DINE IN THE AREA

Expensive/Moderate
The Narrows Finds MEDITERRANEAN If you’d travel anywhere to
discover a good restaurant, then set your compass for the sleepy little waterside
hamlet of Portaferry. Here, Andrew Gargan adores all the keynote Mediter-
ranean flavors and peppers his menu with items like tapenade (a black olive
paste), aioli (garlicky mayonnaise), red peppers, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, and
goat’s cheese. This is pared-down cooking with tastes that are grounded, earthy,
and sensuous—think chicken breast marinated in lemon and basil or pan-fried
salmon with roasted red peppers and citrus dressing. After dinner here, it’s heav-
enly to amble upstairs to one of the chic, white-on-beige guest rooms, priced at
£85 ($156) for a double.
8 Shore Rd., Portaferry, County Down. & 028/4272-8148. www.narrows.co.uk. Dinner main courses
£10–£17 ($18–$31). AE, MC. V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sun 5–11pm.
Moderate
Primrose Bar and Restaurant PUB GRUB The Primrose—an erstwhile
blacksmith shop—is known locally for its steak casseroles, open-faced prawn
sandwiches, and fresh-baked bread. Other offerings include chicken dishes,
pizza, and a variety of salads. There’s always a nice fire blazing, and local opin-
ion concurs that “the craic is always good” (there’s always a good time to be had).
The adjacent Primrose Pop-In Tea Room serves up good quiches and pies Mon-
day to Saturday 9am to 4:30pm.
30 Main St., Ballynahinch, County Down. & 028/9756-3177. Dinner main courses £6–£12 ($11–$22). AE,
MC. V. Bar daily noon–11pm; restaurant Fri–Sun noon–2:30pm and 5–9pm.
DOWNPATRICK
37km (23 miles) SE of Belfast
Downpatrick, one of the North’s oldest cities, is closely identified with St.
Patrick. Legend tells us that when Patrick came to Ireland in 432 to begin his
missionary work, strong winds blew his boat into this area. He had meant to sail
up the coast to County Antrim, where as a young slave he had tended flocks on
Slemish Mountain. Instead, he settled here and converted the local chieftain
Dichu and his followers to Christianity. Over the next 30 years, Patrick roamed
to many other places in Ireland, carrying out his work, but this is where he died.
He is said to be buried in the graveyard of Downpatrick Cathedral. A large stone
claims to mark the spot.
For information in the Down District, stop into the St. Patrick Visitor Centre,
53A Market St., Downpatrick, County Down (& 028/4461-2233). It’s open
October to mid-June, Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 5pm,
and Sunday 2 to 5pm; mid-June to September, Monday to Saturday 9:30am to
6pm and Sunday 2 to 6pm. A “St. Patrick’s Country” coach tour is offered
according to demand and can be booked through this office; October to mid-
June, Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 5pm, and Sunday 2 to
5pm; mid-June to September, Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 6pm and Sunday
2 to 6pm.
Down Cathedral As its name suggests, Downpatrick was once a dún (or
fort), perhaps as early as the Bronze Age. Eventually, here on the Hill of Down,
ancient fortifications gave way to a line of churches, which have superseded each
other for 1,800 years, like a stack of Russian nesting dolls. Today’s cathedral rep-
resents an 18th- and 19th-century reconstruction of its 13th- and 16th-century
predecessors. Just south of the cathedral stands a relatively recent monolith

inscribed with the name Patric. By some accounts, it roughly marks the grave of
the saint, who is said to have died at Saul, 3.2km (2 miles) northeast. The tra-
dition identifying this site as Patrick’s grave seems to go back no further than the
12th century, when John de Courcy reputedly transferred the bones of saints
Bridgit and Columbanus here to lie beside those of St. Patrick.
The Mall, Downpatrick, County Down. & 028/4461-4922. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm; Sat–Sun 2–5pm.
St. Patrick Heritage Centre/Down County Museum Next to the

cathedral and sharing an extensive 18th-century jail complex, the St. Patrick
Centre and the County Museum provide some intriguing glimpses into the rich
history of this area. You’ll also be introduced to some of the county’s more noto-
rious figures, from St. Patrick to a handful of prisoners sent off to Australia in
the 19th century.
The Mall, Downpatrick, County Down. & 028/4461-5218. Free admission, except for some special events.
June–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 1–5pm; Sept–May Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 1–5pm.
LISBURN
16km (10 miles) SE of Belfast
Irish Linen Centre and Lisburn Museum The focus of this center and
museum is the linen industry, long synonymous with Northern Ireland.
Through the re-creation of factory scenes and multimedia presentations, visitors
can trace the history of Irish linen production, from its earliest days in the 17th
century to the high-tech industry of today. There are opportunities to see linen
in all stages of production, and to watch skilled weavers at work on restored
19th-century looms in the workshop. There are also a cafe and a research library.
If you’re a big fan of linen and want to give over a whole day to its considera-
tion, you can book a place in an Irish Linen Tour (£10/$18 per person) by call-
ing the Banbridge Gateway Tourist Information Centre (& 028/4062-3322).
From May to September, you can prebook tours by arrangement.
Market Sq., Lisburn, County Antrim. & 028/9266-3377. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.
LOUGH NEAGH
16km (10 miles) W of Belfast
Lough Neagh, at 396 sq. km (153 sq. miles), is the largest lake in the British
Isles. Often called an inland sea, the lough is 32km (20 miles) long and 16km
(10 miles) wide, with a 105km (65-mile) shore. It’s said that Lough Neagh was
created by the mighty Fionn MacCumhail (anglicized to Finn McCool) when
he flung a sod into the sea to create the Isle of Man. But before you think about
taking a dip, consider this: The lake’s claim to fame is its eels. Yep, the waters are
positively infested with the slimy things. Hundreds of tons of eels are taken from
Lough Neagh and exported each year, mainly to Germany and Holland. This
extraction has been going on since the Bronze Age, and shows no sign of letting
up. The age-old method involves the use of a “long line,” baited with up to 100
hooks. There are often as many as 200 boats trailing a few of these lines each on
the lake each night (the best time to go fishing for eels), with a nightly catch of
up to 10 tons of eels.
If you’re not entirely creeped out by that, you can take a boat trip on Lough
Neagh, departing regularly from the nearby Kinnego Marina (& 0374/
811248 mobile), signposted from the main road. They last about 45 minutes
and cost £5 ($9.15) for adults, £3 ($5.50) for children.
Lough Neagh Discovery Centre Midway between Belfast and Armagh

city, this center is on the southern shore of Lough Neagh at Oxford Island, a
108-hectare (270-acre) nature reserve with a range of habitats such as reed beds,
woodlands, and wildflower meadows. The center provides an excellent intro-
duction to all that the lough has to offer. It contains historical and geographic
exhibits, an interactive lab explaining the ecosystems of the lough, walking trails,
bird-watching observation points, and picnic areas. For a closer look at every-
thing in sight, the center has binoculars for hire.
Oxford Island, Craigavon, County Armagh. & 028/3832-2205. Free admission. Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm;
Oct–Mar Wed–Sun 10am–7pm.
ARMAGH
65km (40 miles) SW of Belfast
One of Ireland’s most historic cities, Armagh takes its name from the Irish Ard
Macha, or Macha’s Height. The legendary pagan queen Macha is said to have
built a fortress here in the middle of the first millennium B.C. Most of Armagh’s
history, however, focuses on the 5th century, when St. Patrick chose this place as
a base from which to spread Christianity; he called it “my sweet hill” and built
a stone church here. Ever since, Armagh has been considered the ecclesiastical
capital of Ireland. Today there are two St. Patrick’s cathedrals, one Catholic and
one Anglican. Each is the seat of the primate of its denomination.
Many of the public buildings and the Georgian town houses along the Mall
are the work of Francis Johnston, a native of Armagh, who also left his mark on
Georgian Dublin. Buildings, doorsteps, and pavements are made of warm-col-
ored pink, yellow, and red local limestone that make the city glow even on a dull
day. In addition to being Ireland’s spiritual capital, this area is known for its
apple trees, earning Armagh the title “the Orchard of Ireland.”
Stop into the Armagh Tourist Information Centre, the Old Bank Building,
40 English St., Armagh (& 028/3752-1800). It’s open all year, Monday to Sat-
urday 9am to 5pm, Sunday 2 to 5pm. For a host of tourist information on
County Armagh, take a look at www.armagh-visit.com.
Armagh Astronomy Centre and Planetarium Kids On your way up
College Hill from the Mall, you’ll pass the 200-year-old Armagh Observatory,
still in service but closed to the public. Farther up the hill stands the Astronomy
Centre and Planetarium complex, whose Astropark, Lindsay Hall of Astronomy,
Eartharium Gallery, and Star Theatre planetarium offer an engaging array of
exhibits and shows, with lots of hands-on learning for the whole family. Note:
The Star Theatre is currently closed for renovations, but shows and demonstra-
tions will take place in the Lindsay Hall of Astronomy in the meantime.
College Hill, Armagh, County Armagh. & 028/3752-3689. www.armaghplanet.com. Admission to show and
exhibition area £3 ($5.50) adults, £2 ($3.65) seniors and children, £9 ($17) families. Mon–Fri 2pm–4:45pm.
Armagh County Museum Housed in what appears to be a miniature

Greek temple, this is the oldest county museum in Ireland. Its rather extensive
collection, documenting local life across the millennia, ranges from prehistoric
ax heads to wedding dresses. In addition to natural history specimens and folk-
lore items, the museum has an extensive art collection, which includes works by
George Russell and John Luke. There is also a rotating exhibition. The museum’s
maps, photographs, and research library can also be consulted.
The Mall East, Armagh, County Armagh. & 028/3752-3070. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat
10am–1pm and 2–5pm.
T H E C A U S E W AY C O A S T & T H E G L E N S O F A N T R I M 521
Benburb Valley Park, Castle, and Heritage Centre Begin in the town
and explore the dramatic banks of the River Blackwater, a favorite for canoeists
and anglers. The park follows the river and brings you to a tree-lined gorge with
a partially restored 17th-century castle perched on a cliff high overhead. Another
half-mile brings you to the Benburb Valley Heritage Centre, a restored linen mill,
and the Benburb Castle site, within the grounds of a Servite monastery.
89 Milltown Rd., Benburb, County Armagh. & 01861/548170 or 028/3754-8170. Park: Free admission. Daily
until dusk. Castle and heritage center: Admission £2.50 ($4.60). Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. 11km (7
miles) northwest of Armagh; take B128 off A29.
Navan Fort Navan Fort (in Irish, Emain Macha) was, in pre-Christian
Ireland, a seat of power and a site of ritual. It was the royal and religious capital
of Ulster. As at Tara, very little remains—only mounds, mute and unimpressive
until their remarkable stories are told. Thankfully, the adjacent interpretive cen-
ter does just this, quite strikingly. The Navan Centre is an artificial mound,
barely visible until you’re upon it. Inside, the magic begins. Through a series of
exhibits and two multimedia presentations, the history and prehistory of Emain
Macha, its mysteries and legends, unfold. A book and gift shop and cafe are also
on hand. The center is also the focus of educational and artistic programs and
events year-round.
The Navan Centre, 81 Killylea Rd., Armagh, County Armagh. & 028/3752-5550. Fax 028/3752-2323. Admis-
sion £4.50 ($8.25) adults, £3 ($5.50) students and seniors, £2.50 ($4.60) children, £7–£10 ($13–$18) fami-
lies. Year-round Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm. 3.2km (2 miles) from Armagh on A28, signposted from
Armagh center.
Peatlands Park Once a part of the Churchill Estate, Peatlands Park con-
sists of more than 240 hectares (600 acres) of peat faces and small lakes in the
southwest corner of the Lough Neagh basin, designated as a Natural Nature
Reserve. To preserve the park’s protected fauna and flora, you’re asked to stay on
the system of marked walking paths or to take a ride on a narrow-gauge railway.
Nature walks and events are offered through the year.
33 Derryhubbert Rd. (11km/7 miles southeast of Dungannon, at exit 13 off M1), The Birches, County Armagh.
& 028/3885-1102. Free admission to park. Rail ride £1 ($1.85) adults, 50p (90¢) children. Vehicle access
to park daily 9am–dusk. Railway Easter–Aug 1–6pm.
St. Patrick’s Trian Visitor Complex Housed in the old Second Presby-
terian Church in the heart of Armagh, this modern visitor complex provides an
informative and engaging introduction to Armagh, the “motherhouse” of Irish
Christianity. Its dramatic presentations, including the Armagh Story and The
Land of Lilliput (complete with a giant Gulliver beset by Lilliputians), are enter-
taining for the whole family. This is a good first stop to get your bearings in local
history and culture. There are a craft courtyard and a cafe, as well as a visitor
genealogical service, if you have local roots.
40 English St. (off Friary Rd, a 10-min. walk from town), Armagh, County Armagh. & 028/3752-1801.
Admission (includes 3 multimedia exhibitions) £4 ($7.35) adults, £3 ($5.50) seniors and students, £2.25
($4.10) children, £10 ($18) families. Year-round Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25–26.
4 The Causeway Coast & the Glens of Antrim

106km (66 miles) from Larne to Portstewart on the coastal A2; Larne is 40km (25 miles) from Belfast
Over 9,000 years ago, the first visitors to Ireland made landfall on the Causeway
Coast. It was accessible, attractive, and there—all that was needed then, or now,
to invite the curious to these spectacular shores. Steeped in myth and legend,
pounded by its own history, and graced with true grandeur, the North Antrim
Coast is one of the most dramatic coastlines in Ireland.
Heralded in story and song, the Glens of Antrim consist of nine green valleys,
sitting north of Belfast and stretching from south to north. The glens have indi-
vidual names, each based on a local tale or legend. Although the meanings are
not known for certain, the popular translations are as follows: Glenarm (glen of
the army), Glencloy (glen of the hedges), Glenariff (ploughman’s glen), Glen-
ballyeamon (Edwardstown glen), Glenaan (glen of the rush lights), Glencorp
(glen of the slaughter), Glendun (brown glen), Glenshesk (sedgy glen), and
Glentaisie (Taisie’s glen).
Many residents of the Glens of Antrim are descendants of the ancient Irish
and the Hebridean Scots, so this area is one of the last strongholds in Northern
Ireland of the Gaelic tongue. To this day, the glen people are known to be great
storytellers.
Two of Ireland’s foremost attractions are also here: the Giant’s Causeway and
Old Bushmills Distillery. For bird-watchers, the coastal moors and cliffs and
the offshore nature reserve on Rathlin Island are prime destinations. There are
plenty of opportunities for exploring and outdoor adventuring. Each August,
the seaside town of Ballycastle plays host to one of Ireland’s oldest traditional
gatherings, the Oul’ Lammas Fair.
VISITOR INFORMATION The principal tourist information centers in
North Antrim are at Narrow Guarge Road, Larne (& 028/2826-0088);
Sheskburn House, 7 Mary St., Ballycastle (& 028/2076-2024); 44 Causeway
Rd., Giant’s Causeway Information Centre (& 028/2073-1855); and Dun-
luce Centre, Sandhill Drive, Portrush (& 028/7082-3333). All but the Dun-
luce Centre are open year-round; hours vary seasonally. Summer hours, at the
minimum, are Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 4pm, and
Sunday 2 to 6pm.
EXPLORING THE COAST
The area identified as the Antrim coast is 97km (60 miles) long, stretching north
of Larne and west past Bushmills and the Giant’s Causeway to Portrush. The
route takes in marine seascapes and white, chalky cliffs. It includes the National
Trust village of Cushendun , rife with pretty Cornish-style cottages, as well
as a string of old-style beach resorts, such as Portrush, Portstewart, and Port-
ballintrae. This coastal drive also meanders under bridges and arches, passing
bays, sandy beaches, harbors, and huge rock formations.
Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge Moments Eight kilometers (5 miles)
west of Ballycastle off the A2 road, this open rope bridge spans a chasm 18m (60
ft.) wide and 24m (80 ft.) above the sea between the mainland and a small
island. Local fishermen put up the bridge each spring to allow access to the
island’s salmon fishery, but visitors can use it for a thrilling walk and the chance
to call out to each other, “Don’t look down!” (This is excellent advice.) If you
are acrophobic, stay clear; if you don’t know whether you are, this is not the
place to find out. Note: The 19km (12-mile) coastal cliff path from the Giant’s
Causeway to the rope bridge is always open and is well worth the exhaustion.
Larrybane, County Antrim. & 028/2073-1582. Free admission. Bridge, center, and tearoom Apr–June and
early Sept daily 10am–6pm; July–Aug 10am–8pm. Parking £2 ($3.65).
Dunluce Castle This site was once the main fort of the Irish MacDon-
nells, chiefs of Antrim. It’s the largest and most sophisticated castle in the North,
consisting of a series of fortifications built on rocky outcrops extending into the

sea, and was the power base of the north coast for 400 years. In 1639, part of
the castle fell into the sea, taking some of the servants with it. The castle ruins
incorporate two of the original Norman towers dating from 1305. The visitor
center shows an audiovisual presentation with background on the site.
87 Dunluce Rd. (5.6km/31⁄2 miles east of Portrush off A2), Bushmills, County Antrim. & 028/2073-1938.
www.northantrim.com/dunlucecastle.htm. Admission £2 ($3.65) adults, £1 ($1.85) seniors and children under
16. Apr–May and Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 2–6pm; June–Aug Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm;
Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 2–4pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing.
Dunluce Centre Kids This family-oriented entertainment complex pro-

vides a variety of indoor activities. It offers a multimedia show, Myths & Legends,
that illustrates the folklore of the Antrim coast, as well as “Turbo Tours,” a thrill
ride that simulates a space ride, and “Earthquest,” an interactive display on the
wonders of nature. There’s also a viewing tower with panoramic views of the
coast and a Victorian-style arcade of shops, and a restaurant with a children’s
play area.
Dunluce Rd., Bushmills, Country Antrim. & 028/7082-3333.
Giant’s Causeway A World Heritage Site, this natural rock forma-

tion is often called the eighth wonder of the world. It consists of roughly
40,000 tightly packed basalt columns that extend for 4.8km (3 miles) along
the coast. The tops of the columns form stepping stones that lead from the
cliff foot and disappear under the sea. They’re mostly hexagonal, about 12
inches in diameter, and some are as tall as 12m (40 ft.). Scientists estimate that
they were formed 60 or 70 million years ago by volcanic eruptions and cool-
ing lava. The ancients, on the other hand, believed the rock formation to be
the work of giants. Another legend has it that Finn MacCool, the Ulster war-
rior and commander of the king of Ulster’s armies, built the causeway as a
highway over the sea to bring his girlfriend from the Isle of Hebrides. To reach
the causeway, follow the walk from the parking area past amphitheaters of
stone columns and formations with fanciful names like Honeycomb, Wishing
Well, Giant’s Granny, King and his Nobles, and Lover’s Leap, and up a
wooden staircase to Benbane Head and back along the cliff top. There’s a new
Giant’s Causeway Visitors Centre to replace the one that tragically burned to
the ground in 2000.
Causeway Rd., Bushmills, County Antrim. & 028/2073-1582. www.giantscausewayofficialguide.com.
Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–4:30pm.
Old Bushmills Distillery Licensed to distill spirits in 1608, but with

historical references dating from as far back as 1276, this is the oldest distillery
in the world. Visitors are welcome to tour the facility and watch the whiskey-
making process, starting with fresh water from the adjacent River Bush and con-
tinuing through distilling, fermenting, and bottling. At the end of the tour, you
can sample the wares in the Poststill Bar, where there are fascinating exhibits on
the long history of the distillery. Tours last about 25 minutes. The Bushmills cof-
fee shop serves tea, coffee, homemade snacks, and lunches.
Main St., Bushmills, County Antrim. & 028/2073-1521. www.bushmills.com. Admission £4 ($7.35) adults,
£3.50 ($6.40) seniors and students, £2 ($3.65) children, £11 ($20) families. Apr–Oct tours offered frequently
throughout the day Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm, Sun noon–5:30pm (last tour leaves 4pm); Nov–Mar tours
offered Mon–Sat at 10:30am, 11:30am, 1:30, 2:30, and 3:30pm, Sun at 1:30, 2:30, and 3:30pm. Closed Good
Friday, July 12, Christmas, New Year’s Day.
Moments Going to the Birds: A Trip to Rathlin Island
Looking for peace and solitude? Plan a trip to Rathlin Island ,

9.7km (6 miles) off the coast north of Ballycastle and 23km (14 miles)
south of Scotland. It is almost 6.5km (4 miles) long, but less than 1.6km
(1 mile) wide at any point. Rathlin Island is almost completely treeless,
with a rugged coast of 60m-high (200-ft.) cliffs, a small beach, and a
native population of 100. Don’t worry—there is also a pub, a restau-
rant, and a guesthouse, in case you get stranded. This is a mecca for
bird-watchers, especially in spring and early to midsummer. Free
admission to the Rathlin Island RSPB Seabird Viewpoint is available by
appointment April through August.
Boat trips operate daily from Ballycastle pier; crossing time is 50
minutes. The round-trip fare is £8.60 ($16) for adults; £4.30 ($7.90) for
seniors, students, and children; and £23 ($41) for families. The number
and schedule of crossings vary from season to season and from year to
year, and are always subject to weather, but there are usually several
crossings a day. It’s best to confirm departures by phoning the Cale-
donian MacBrayne ticket office (& 028/2076-9299; www.calmac.co.uk)
well in advance.
On the island, a minibus (summer only) will take you from Church
Bay to the West Light Platform and the Kebble Nature Reserve for
roughly £3 ($5.50) adults, £2 ($3.65) children, round-trip. Bicycles can
be rented from Soerneog View Hostel (& 028/2076-3954) for £8 ($15)
per day.
For more information on the island and its offerings, call & 028/
2076-3948 or surf over to www.island-trail.com.
A SHOPPING STOP
The Steensons This is the workshop-showroom of Bill and Christina Steen-
son, two of the most celebrated goldsmiths in Ireland. On display and for sale is
a small, impressive selection of their pieces, as well as a sampling of the work of
other distinguished Irish goldsmiths and silversmiths with a similar contempo-
rary eye. Toberwine St., Glenarm, County Antrim. &/fax 028/2884-1445.
ADVENTURE SPORTS The Ardclinis Activity Centre, High Street,
Cushendall, County Antrim (&/fax 028/2177-1340), offers a range of year-
round outdoor programs and courses. They include everything from rock climb-
ing and mountain biking to windsurfing and rafting. Half-day, full-day, and
weeklong activities for ages 8 and older are offered, as well as 5- and 6-night sce-
nic walking and cycling tours. It’s best to book at least several weeks ahead. The
center will arrange local B&B or hostel accommodations.
FISHING The best time to fish in the North Antrim Glens is July to Octo-
ber, both for salmon and for sea trout. The rivers of choice are the Margy, Glen-
shesk, Carey, and Dun. The Marine Hotel (see “Where to Stay,” below) in
Ballycastle offers an array of services to the game angler. For locally arranged
game fishing, contact Gillaroo Angles, 7 Cooleen Park, Jordanstown, New-

townabbey, County Antrim (& 028/9086-2419). For info, tackle, and bait, try
Red Bay Boats, Coast Road, Cushendall (& 028/2177-1331).
GOING SKY HIGH You can book a spectacular helicopter ride over the
North Antrim Coast by calling The Helicopter Centre, Newtownards Airfield
(& 028/9182-0028). While you’re at it, keep your eyes peeled for a familiar
sight—a monk from Dublin who hang-glides off the Causeway cliffs every
month or so. He’s known by locals only as “Flyer Tuck.”
GOLF North Antrim boasts several notable courses, including champion pro
golfer Darren Clarke’s home course, the Royal Portrush Golf Club, Dunluce
Road, Portrush (& 028/7082-2311; www.royalportrushgolfclub.com). Royal
Portrush has three links courses, including the celebrated Dunluce Course,
ranked number three in the United Kingdom. Greens fees are £90 ($165) week-
days and £110 ($202) weekends. Just over the border in County Londonderry
is the Portstewart Golf Club, 117 Strand Rd., Portstewart (& 028/
7083-2015; www.portstewartgc.co.uk). Of its three links courses, the 72-par
Strand Course is the celebrated one here. Some days and times are more acces-
sible than others for visitors, so it’s advisable to call ahead for times and fees,
which range from £30 to £85 ($55–$156) for 18 holes, depending on the course
and the day of the week.
PONY TREKKING Watertop Farm Family Activity Centre, 188 Cushen-
dall Rd., Ballycastle (& 028/2076-2576), offers pony trekking and other out-
door family activities, daily in July and August and weekends in late June and
early September. In the Portrush area, contact Maddybenny Riding Centre
(& 028/7082-3394; www.maddybenny.freeserve.co.uk), also offering accom-
modations, which won “Farmhouse of the Year” award for all of Ireland in 1999.
B&B accommodations run £50 to €55 ($92–$101) for a double. Also, in Castle-
rock, there’s Hillfarm Riding and Trekking Centre (& 028/7084-8629). Fees
are typically around £15 ($28) per hour-long trek.
WALKING The Ulster Way, 904km (560 miles) of marked trail, follows the
North Antrim Coast from Glenarm to Portstewart. The Moyle Way offers a
spectacular detour from Ballycastle south to Glenariff. Maps and accommoda-
tions listings for both ways are in the free NITB booklet The Ulster Way: Accom-
modation for Walkers. Or pick up a copy of Walking the Ulster Way, by Alan
Warner (Appletree Press, 1989). The NITB also offers An Information Guide to
Walking, full of useful information for avid pedestrians.
Last but far from least is the Causeway Coast Path. It stretches from Bush-
foot Strand, near Bushmills, in the west to Ballintoy Harbour in the east. Short
of sprouting wings, this is surely the way to take in the full splendor of the North
Antrim coast.
WHERE TO STAY
Bushmills Inn In the center of the famous whiskey-making village of the
same name, this inn dates from the 17th century. Some of the guest rooms are in
the original coaching inn and the others are in the newer mill house. The inte-
rior of the coaching inn has old-world charm, with open turf fireplaces, gas
lamps, and antique furnishings. Guest rooms here are comfortable, with country-
pine and caned furniture, floral wallpaper, brass fixtures, and vintage prints. The
mill house rooms have less character but they are considerably more spacious and
modernized.
9 Dunluce Rd., Bushmills, County Antrim. & 028/2073-2339. Fax 028/2073-2048. www.bushmills-inn.com.
32 units, 26 with private bathroom. £98–£158 ($180–$290) double. Family rooms available. Rates include full
breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; babysitting, baby listening service; nonsmoking
rooms; drawing room. In room: TV, dataport, hair dryer, iron, garment press.
M O D E R AT E
Londonderry Arms Hotel At the foot of Glencloy, one of the nine
Antrim glens, this ivy-covered former coaching inn dates back to 1848; at one
point Sir Winston Churchill owned it through a family inheritance. (He once
slept in room no. 114.) It has been a hotel in the hands of the O’Neill family
since 1947. It sits in the heart of a delightful coastal town with views of the har-
bor across the street. The hotel recently expanded, and a surprising degree of
tasteful continuity was achieved between the original Georgian structure and the
newer wing. Each room has its own character, yet is furnished with the same fine
eye and excellent taste. This is a family-run hotel, and it shows in the warmth of
hospitality and careful attention to detail.
20 Harbour Rd., Carnlough, County Antrim. & 800/44-PRIMA in the U.S. or 028/2888-5255. Fax
028/2888-5263. www.glensofantrim.com. 35 units. £85 ($156) double. Rates include full breakfast. High tea £14
($26); dinner £22 ($40).AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood); bar. In room: TV, radio, tea/coffeemaker.
Magherabuoy House Hotel Nestled amid gardens at the edge of

Portrush, this beautiful country-manor-style hotel enjoys panoramic views of the
town and seacoast, yet is away from the resort hubbub. The traditional and ele-
gant ambience of the public rooms—dark woods, gilded mirrors, and open fire-
places—is brought down a notch in the guest rooms, which are comfortable and
homey, with frilly fabrics, brass fittings, and watercolors of seascapes on the walls.
41 Magheraboy Rd., Portrush, County Antrim. & 028/7082-3507. Fax 028/7082-4687. www.magherabuoy.
co.uk. 40 units. £100 ($183) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants
(Continental, cafe); bar/nightclub; gym; Jacuzzi. In room: TV.
Marine Hotel Value Sitting right on the harbor at Ballycastle, just a 10-
minute drive from the Giant’s Causeway, this refurbished three-story contem-
porary-style hotel is a favorite with Irish vacationers. The guest rooms offer
lovely views of the sea and bright modern furnishings.
The Marine Hotel and Country Club complex includes 27 self-catering apart-
ments (& 028/9066-7110) that each sleep up to eight people. They are rented
only by the week in high season. During the rest of the year, they’re available by
the night or for a weekend. Weekly rates range from £230 to £400 ($422–$733).
1 North St., Ballycastle, County Antrim. & 028/2076-2222. Fax 028/7076-9507. www.marinehotel.net. 32
units. £80 ($147) double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner £14 ($22). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restau-
rant (Continental); bar; nightclub; indoor swimming pool; gym; sauna; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV,
tea/coffeemaker.
INEXPENSIVE
The Meadows This modern guesthouse provides spacious, well-designed
accommodations in a lovely coastal setting. The front-room views of the sea and,
on a clear day, of Scotland are quite splendid. There’s one family room, and one
unit is fully adapted for travelers with disabilities. A 10-minute walk from the
center of Cushendall, the Meadows offers exceptional convenience, comfort,
and good value. Anne Carey, your host, will gladly arrange for you to eat at the
private boat club across the road.
81 Coast Rd., Cushendall, County Antrim. & 028/2177-2020. 6 units (all with shower only). £40 ($73) dou-
ble. Family rates negotiable. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. V. Amenities: Nonsmoking
rooms; sitting room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
Sanda Perched high at the mouth of Glenariff, the Queen of the Glens,
Sanda affords truly spectacular views. The two guest rooms are modest and
immaculate. The beds are very firm, and a pleasant lounge, complete with TV
and a stack of intriguing books about the area, is available to guests. Host Don-
nell O’Loan is quite knowledgeable and articulate about the area—its ancient
sites, as well as its current attractions.
29 Kilmore Rd., Glenariff, County Antrim. & 028/2177-1785. [email protected]. 2 units (both with shower
only). £40 ($73) double. Family rates negotiable. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. No
credit cards. Closed Dec–Feb. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms; TV lounge.
Bellair Cottage Value This century-old whitewashed farmhouse and
attached barn have been beautifully converted into a gracious, inviting tradi-
tional home away from home for one or two families. It has three bedrooms, and
sleeps six. The house occupies a lovely secluded setting high on Glenarm Glen,
with an enclosed stone-walled garden that’s a safe play area for children. The
kitchen has its original open fireplace and the exquisite master bedroom could
win a design award. For an extended working holiday or summer—or sabbati-
cal year, for that matter—Bellair is a good size for two people, giving each a pri-
vate workplace. The nearby North Antrim Coast is all the inspiration any writer,
painter, photographer, or gazer could ask for. You can book any desired activi-
ties through RCH—horseback riding, day boats, trekking, rock climbing, or
bicycling.
Glenarm, County Antrim. Contact RCH, & 028/9024-1100. Fax 028/9024-1198. www.cottagesinireland.
com. 1 cottage. £290–£395 ($532–$724) per week. Also available for 2- or 3-day stays. MC, V. Amenities:
Fridge; full kitchen; microwave; oven/stove; washing machine. In room: TV, no phone.
Tully Cottage This is one of the loveliest self-catering cottages available for
the money. Although it has two bedrooms and is just large enough to accom-
modate four people quite comfortably, Tully is the perfect love nest or honey-
moon nook. It is both elevated and secluded, affording spectacular views of
Glenarm Glen and the North Channel down to the Mull of Galloway, plus total
privacy. The old farm cottage has been lovingly restored and tastefully appointed
to offer equal charm and comfort. The beds are firm, the tub is extralong, the
traditional fireplace is up to the task, and the kitchen is well equipped. This is a
perfect base for exploring the stunning North Antrim coast. Horse riding, day
boats, trekking, and rock climbing can be arranged in advance; bicycles can be
waiting for you at the cottage, all through RCH.
Glenarm, County Antrim. Contact RCH, & 028/9024-1100. Fax 028/9024-1198. www.cottagesinireland.
com. 1 cottage. bp]290–£395 ($532–$724) per week. Also available for 2- to 3-day stays. MC, V. Amenities:
Fridge; kitchen; microwave; oven/stove; washing machine. In room: TV.
WHERE TO DINE
EXPENSIVE
Ramore MODERN CONTINENTAL On your first look-see of
Portrush, you’d never believe this small, slightly frayed resort town would pos-
sess such a wonderful beacon of good cooking. But there it is. On the east end
of the harbor overlooking boats and the sea, this stylish, hip, buzzy wine bar is
home to George McAlpin’s highly original, very modern cooking. On any given
day, the menu might include chicken breast with fresh asparagus and vinaigrette
of pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes, Parmesan, and truffle oil; a fabulous black-
bean ratatouille with filet of steak; or smoked squid with bacon fries. For dessert,
choose something with wow appeal, like a chocolate soufflé. And cap off your
night with a drink downstairs at The Harbour Bar, also owned by McAlpin.
Ramore St., The Harbour, Portrush, County Antrim. & 028/7082-4313. Reservations required. Main courses
£7–£13 ($13–$24). MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2pm and 5–10pm; Sun 12:30–3pm and 5–9pm.
M O D E R AT E
Smuggler’s Inn Country House IRISH Surrounded by lovely gardens
and situated opposite the entrance to the Giant’s Causeway, this restaurant offers
lovely wide-windowed views of the coast, which are particularly beautiful at sun-
set. The menu emphasizes local ingredients and creative sauces: salmon baked
with cucumbers, mushrooms, and fennel sauce; grilled venison with game
mousse laced with Black Bush Irish whiskey; and roast North Antrim duck with
sage and onion stuffing and peach brandy. Bed-and-breakfast is also available for
£80 ($126) for a double, or less with special off-season weekend packages.
306 Whitepark Rd., Giant’s Causeway, County Antrim. & 028/2073-1577. Reservations required. Main
courses £8–£15 ($15–$28). MC, V. Mon–Sun noon–2:30pm and 4–9pm.
Sweeney’s Wine Bar PUB GRUB This is a popular, informal spot on the
coast, with a conservatory-style extension and outdoor seating in good weather.
The menu offers good pub grub—burgers, pasta, seafood plates (prawns,
scampi, cod, and whitefish), steak-and-kidney pie, and stir-fry vegetables.
6b Seaport Ave., Portballintrae, County Antrim. & 028/2073-2405. Reservations recommended for dinner.
Main courses £6–£14 ($11–$26). No credit cards. Mon–Sat 12:30–8pm; Sun 12:30–2:30pm and 5–8pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Café in the Center CAFETERIA In the Dunluce Center, this Victorian-
theme bi-level restaurant is a handy place to stop for refreshment when touring
the Antrim coast. The menu includes sandwiches, omelets, salads, pastas, and
steaks, as well as sausage, beans, and “Ulster fry” (a cheese-and-onion pie).
Dunluce Ave., Portrush, County Antrim. & 028/7082-4444. Main courses £2–£5 ($3.65–$9.15). No credit
cards. Easter–June and Sept daily noon–5pm; July–Aug daily 10am–8pm; Oct Sat–Sun noon–5pm. Closed
Nov–Easter.
PUBS
Harbour Bar George McAlpin’s place is reputed to serve the best Guinness in
the North. It’s a particularly good place for a before- or after-dinner libation, with
a location just under the terrific Ramore restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” above)
on the wharf overlooking the harbor. You’ll find mostly locals in the plain, old-
style bar. It’s all so very Irish. 6 Harbour Rd., Portrush, County Antrim. & 028/7082-2430.
J. McCollam Known to locals as John Joe’s or McCollam’s Bar, this has been
the hottest scene in Cushendall for traditional music and Antrim atmosphere for
nearly a century. You have to be willing to wedge yourself in, but you’re not
likely to have any regrets. There’s a trad session every Friday night year-round.
Mill St., Cushendall, County Antrim. & 028/2177-1992.
M. McBride’s Opened in 1840, Mary McBride’s was the smallest pub or bar
in Europe until, quite recently, it expanded to include a bistro and restaurant.
The old Guinness record–holding pub is still intact, so squeeze in and partake
of the legend for yourself. Live, traditional music tends to break out in the pub’s
conservatory on weekend evenings. The Riverside Bistro serves light lunches and
T H E M O U R N E M O U N TA I N S 529
dinners (noon–9pm). The Waterside Restaurant, specializing in seafood, has

a dinner menu (6–9pm) that features Torr Head lobster and Cushendun
salmon; main courses run £6 to £17 ($11–$31). 2 Main St., Cushendun Village, County
Antrim. & 028/2176-1511.
O’Malley’s Finds This is a favored fisherman’s haunt and a great place to have
a drink and kick back without being up to your elbows in tourists. The bar is
off the wood-paneled lobby of the Edgewater Hotel, facing the magnificent
beach at Portstewart. The Edgewater Hotel, 88 Strand Rd., Portstewart, County Derry.
& 028/7083-3314.
5 The Mourne Mountains

48km (30 miles) SW of Belfast
South and west from Downpatrick lie the rolling foothills of the Mournes, the
highest mountains in Northern Ireland. A dozen of their nearly 50 summits rise
above 600m (2,000 ft.), all of which are dominated by the barren peak of Slieve
Donard (839m/2,796 ft.). Its breathtaking vista includes the full length of
Strangford Lough, Lough Neagh, the Isle of Man, and, on a crystalline day, the
west coasts of Wales and Scotland. (The recommended ascent of Slieve Donard
is from Donard Park on the south side of Newcastle.)
Described by C. S. Lewis as “earth-covered potatoes,” all but two of the
Mournes’s purple peaks are soft and rounded. Remote and veined by very few
roads, the mountains are a hiker’s dream—barren windswept moors galore. The
ancestral home of the Brontës is here, in ruin. But all is not desolate. There are
forest parks, sandy beaches, lush gardens, and, of course, pubs.
Besides walking and climbing and sighing at the wuthering splendor of it all,
there’s Newcastle, a popular, lively seaside resort, complete with beach and one
of the finest golf courses in Ireland. Several other coastal towns strung along
A2—Kilkeel, Rostrevor, and Warrenpoint—have their own charms. But here
the mountains are the thing, and naturally you can’t have cliffs and the sea with-
out birds and castles and the odd dolmen. Finally, if at the end of the day your
idea of nightlife has mostly to do with the stars, the Mourne Mountains provide
a luminous getaway.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE If you’re driving up from Dublin, turn east off the Dublin-
Belfast road at Newry and take A2, tracing the north shore of Carlingford Lough,
between the mountains and the sea. It’s a drive you won’t soon forget.
VISITOR INFORMATION For information in the Down District, stop into
the St. Patrick Visitor Centre, 53A Market St., Downpatrick, County Down
(& 028/4461-2233), open October to June, Monday to Friday 9am to
5:30pm, Saturday 9:30am to 5pm; July to September Monday to Saturday
9:30am to 6pm and Sunday 2 to 6pm. (Downpatrick, covered in section 3 of
this chapter, “Side Trips from Belfast,” is a good gateway stop as you head into
the Mourne Mountains from Belfast.)
There’s also the Newcastle Tourist Information Centre, 10–14 Central
Promenade, Newcastle, County Down (& 028/4372-2222; fax 028/
4372-2400). It’s open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm and Sunday 2 to 6pm,
with extended hours (daily 10am–7pm) in the summer. A coach tour of
the Mournes, offered according to demand, can be booked here. Or try the
Mourne Heritage Trust Centre, 87 Central Promenade, Newcastle, County
Down (& 028/4372-4059), open all year Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. The
center dispenses plenty of information and maps and sponsors guided mountain
walks every Monday and Saturday.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Castlewellan Forest Park Surrounding a fine trout lake and watched
over by a magnificent private castle, this splendid forest park just begs for pic-
nics and outdoor activities. Woodland walks, a lakeside sculpture trail, formal
walled gardens, and even excellent trout fishing (brown and rainbow) await. The
real draw is the National Arboretum, begun in 1740 and now grown to 10 times
its original size. The largest of its three greenhouses features aquatic plants and
a collection of free-flying tropical birds. The town of Castlewellan, elegantly laid
out around two squares, is also worth a stroll.
6.5km (4 miles) northwest of Newcastle on A50, The Grange, Castlewellan Forest Park, Castlewellan, County
Down. & 028/4377-8664. Free admission. Parking £4 ($7.35). Daily 10am–dusk; coffeehouse summer
10am–5pm.
Drumena Cashel (Stone Fort) The walls of this irregularly shaped

ancient stone-ring fort—a farmstead, dating from the early Christian period—
were partially rebuilt in 1925–26 and measure 2.7m (9 ft.) to 3.6m (12 ft.)
thick. The souterrain (underground stone tunnel) is T-shaped and was likely
used in ancient times for cold storage. In the extreme, it hopefully provided
some protection from Viking raiders. There were once, it seems, tens of thou-
sands of such fortifications in Ireland, and this is one of the better-preserved
examples in this region.
3km (2 miles) southwest of Castlewellan, off A25, County Down.
Dundrum Castle This was the site of an early Irish fortification, of which
nothing is visible now. The oldest portions of the castle’s striking and quite
extensive ruins date from the late 12th century, and the most recent are from the
17th century. The hilltop setting is quite lovely, and the views from the keep’s
parapet are especially grand. This was once the mightiest of the Norman castles
along the Down coast. It still commands the imagination, if nothing else.
6.5km (4 miles) east of Newcastle, off A2, Dundrum, County Down. No phone. Admission £1 ($1.85) adults,
50p (90¢) children. Apr–Sept Tues–Sat 10am–1pm and 1:30–7pm, Sun 2–7pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sat 10am–1pm
and 1:30–4pm, Sun 2–4pm.
Greencastle Fort The first castle on this site, built in 1261, faced its com-
panion, Carlingford Castle, across the lough. It was a two-story rectangular
tower surrounded by a curtain wall with corner towers. Very little survives. Most
of what you see is from the 14th century, a fortress that fell to Cromwell in
1652, never to rise again.
6.5km (4 miles) southwest of Kilkeel, Greencastle, Cranfield Point, Mouth of Carlingford Lough, County Down.
No phone. Admission £1 ($1.85) adults, 50p (90¢) children. Apr–Sept Tues–Sat 10am–1pm and 1:30–7pm,
Sun 2–7pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sat 10am–1pm and 1:30–4pm, Sun 2–4pm.
Murlough Nature Reserve Sand dunes, heath land, and forest, sur-
rounded by estuary and sea, make for a lovely outing on a clear bright day, but
you’ll want to bring a windbreaker, and some binoculars; this is a prime habitat
for a host of waders and sea birds. Take a picnic, and you may find your dessert
on the dunes, which are strewn with wild strawberries in the summertime.
On the main Dundrum-Newcastle rd. (A2), southeast of Dundrum, County Down. & 028/4375-1467. Free
admission. Parking £2 ($3.65).
Silent Valley Mountain Park Kids More than 90 years ago, the 36km (22-
mile) dry-stone Mourne Wall was built to enclose Silent Valley, which was
dammed to create the Silent Valley Reservoir, to this day the major source of
water for County Down. The 36km (22-mile) Mourne Wall trek follows
the Mourne Wall, an 8-foot granite fence built over 18 years between 1904 and
1922, which threads together 15 of the range’s main peaks. It’s more than most
hikers want to take on, and certainly shouldn’t be attempted in a single day. But
it unquestionably the finest long walk in the Mournes and delivers wonderful
views. A fine alternative is the more modest walk from the fishing port of Kil-
keel to the Silent Valley and Lough Shannagh. An even less strenuous alterna-
tive is to drive to the Silent Valley Information Centre and take the shuttle bus
to the top of nearby Ben Crom. The bus runs daily in July and August, week-
ends only in May, June, and September, and costs £2 ($3.65) round-trip, 75p
($1.35) for children. There is also a restaurant, gift shop, children’s playscape,
and picnic area.
6.5km (4 miles) north of Kilkeel on Head Rd., Silent Valley, County Down. & 028/9074-6581. Admission £3
($5.50) per car. Information Centre Easter–Sept daily 10am–6:30pm; Oct–Easter daily 10am–4:30pm.
Tollymore Forest Park Tollymore House is no more. What remains is a

delightful 480-hectare (1,200-acre) wildlife and forest park. The park offers a
number of walks along the Shimna River, noted for its salmon, or up into the
north slopes of the Mournes. The forest is a nature preserve inhabited by a host
of local wildlife, including badgers, foxes, otters, and pine martens. Don’t miss
the trees for the forest—there are some exotic species here, including magnifi-
cent Himalayan cedars and a 30m-tall (100-ft.) sequoia in the arboretum.
Off B180, 3.2km (2 miles) northwest of Newcastle, Tullybrannigan Rd., Newcastle, County Down. & 028/
4372-2428. Free admission. Parking £4 ($7.35). Daily 10am–dusk.
SHOPPING
The Mourne Grange Craft Shop and Tea Room This gift shop is a
browser’s paradise, full to the brim with unique quality handcrafted goods, from
pottery and silk scarves to toys for young and old. There’s also a fine selection of
books of local interest and beyond. The cheerful, nonsmoking Tea Room serves
an array of freshly baked pastries to complement a cup of coffee or pot of tea.
The proceeds of this shop help support the Rudolf Steiner–inspired Kilkeel
Camphill Community for children and adults with special needs. Camphill Village
Community, 169 Newry Rd., Kilkeel, County Down. & 028/4176-0103.

BICYCLING The Mourne roads are narrow and often bordered by 1.7m-
high (51⁄2-ft.) dry-stone walls. There is also precious little traffic, and the vistas
are spectacular. The foothills of the Mournes around Castlewellan are ideal for
cycling, with panoramic vistas and very little traffic. In these parts, the perfect
year-round outfitter is Ross Cycles, 44 Clarkhill Rd., signposted from the
Clough-Castlewellan road, .8km (1⁄2 mile) out of Castlewellan (& 028/4377-
8029), which has light-frame, highly geared mountain bikes for the whole fam-
ily, with helmets and children’s seats. All cycles are fully insured, as are their rid-
ers. You can park and ride, or request local delivery. Daily rates are £7 to £10
($13–$18). Family and weekly rates are available.
FISHING The best time to fish for trout and salmon is August to October. Some
sizable sea trout can be seen on the Whitewater River in the Mournes, and not all
of them get away. The Burrendale Hotel in Newcastle (& 028/4372-2599) and
the Kilmorey Arms Hotel in Kilkeel (& 028/4176-2220) offer special holiday
breaks for game anglers. For further information, as well as tackle, bait, and outfit-
ting needs, try Four Seasons, 47 Main St., Newcastle (& 028/4372-5078).
GOLF Royal County Down , Newcastle, County Down (& 028/
4372-3314; www.royalcountydown.org), is nestled in huge sand dunes with the
Mountains of Mourne in the background. This 18-hole, par-71 championship
course was created in 1889 and is considered one of the best in the British Isles.
Greens fees are £95 ($174) weekdays, £105 ($192) weekends. For a fraction of
the cost, try the Kilkeel Golf Club, Mourne Park, Ballyardle, Kilkeel (& 028/
4176-5095), a beautiful parkland course on the historic Kilmorey Estate. The
best days for visitors are weekdays except Tuesday, and greens fees are £20 ($37)
weekdays, £25 ($46) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING The Mount Pleasant Trekking and Horse Riding
Centre (& 028/4377-8651) offers group trekking tours into Castlewellan For-
est Park for £11 ($20) an hour. For riding in the Tollymore Forest Park or on
local trails, contact the Mourne Trail Riding Centre, 96 Castlewellan Rd.,
Newcastle (& 028/4372-4315). They have quality horses and offer beach rides
for highly skilled riders. The Drumgooland House Equestrian Centre, 29
Dunnanew Rd., Seaforde, Downpatrick, County Down (& 028/4481-1956),
also offers trail riding in the Mournes, including 21⁄2-hour trekking around Tol-
lymore and Castlewellan Forest Parks from £30 ($55). Full equestrian holidays
are also available.
SAILING For leisure sailing cruises—from sightseeing to a meal afloat—
contact Pamela or Aidan Reilly at Leisure Sailing Cruises, 5 Coastguard Villas,
Newcastle (& 028/4372-2882).
WHERE TO STAY
EXPENSIVE
The Slieve Donard Hotel From this turreted, redbrick Victorian
hotel on the seafront, you look across Dundrum Bay to where the Mountains of
Mourne sweep down to the sea. Outside, you can walk along the 6.5km (4-mile)
curving sandy strand to their very feet. When the hotel was built in 1897, there
were coal fires in every bathroom. These days, the public areas and well-
appointed guest rooms incorporate every modern convenience. Front rooms
overlooking the sea are especially appealing. Other rooms look out onto the
mountains or Royal County Down Golf Course.
Downs Rd., Newcastle, County Down. & 028/4372-1066. Fax 028/4372-4830. www.hastingshotels.com.
130 units. £170 ($312) double. Children’s discount available. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; indoor swimming pool; gym; Jacuzzi; steam room; salon. In room:
TV, hair dryer.
Glasdrumman Lodge Country House and Restaurant “Simple ele-
gance” is the mark Graeme and Joan Hall set in establishing this extraordinary
place, and they have achieved just that. Poised between sea and mountains, with
splendid views of each, Glasdrumman Lodge is encrusted with awards for fine
dining and gracious accommodations, including the Irish “Most Romantic
Hotel” award in 1997. Here is a place that knows what really good service is all
about: Shoes are shined and cars cleaned overnight. Some of the light-filled
rooms have working fireplaces, and no. 4, “Knockree,” has an especially grand
view of the sea. Note that the lodge is only 3.2km (2 miles) from the Silent
Valley. The restaurant specializes in organic, natural produce and ingredients.
85 Mill Rd., Annalong, County Down. & 028/4376-8451. Fax 028/43767041. 10 units. £120 ($220) double.
Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (organic); bar; room service; nonsmoking rooms;
valet service. In room: TV, hair dryer.
M O D E R AT E
Briers Country House Value Mary Bowater has lovingly converted her
200-year-old house into an award-winning B&B, keeping its old-world charm.
There are some .8 hectares (2 acres) of gardens, with a trout pond, and the
Bowaters grow most of their own fruit and vegetables and make their own
breads and preserves. The full-service restaurant overlooks the pond and gar-
dens, and the home-style guest rooms have good views. The house is in the
foothills of the Mountains of Mourne, beside the Tollymore Forest Park.
39 Middle Tollymore Rd. (2.5km/11⁄2 miles from the beach at Newcastle, off B180), Newcastle, County Down.
& 028/4372-4347. Fax 028/4372-6633. www.thebriers.co.uk. 8 units. £60 ($110) double. Rates include full
breakfast. 3-day and weekly rates available. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood); nonsmoking rooms; sit-
ting room. In room: TV, hair dryer.
Burrendale Hotel and Country Club Kids This meticulously main-

tained modern hotel enjoys a fine location between the Mournes and the shore,
and is a 15-minute walk from Newcastle Centre and the Royal County Down
Golf Course. The gracious, contemporary rooms are spotless and spacious. In
addition, so much attention has been paid to the needs of guests with disabili-
ties that the Burrendale is a past recipient of the British Airways award for dis-
abled access and amenities, both in the hotel and in the country club. If you’re
traveling with kids, the spacious family rooms are the way to go.
51 Castlewellan Rd., Newcastle, County Down. & 028/4372-2599. Fax 028/4372-2328. www.burrendale.com.
69 units. £110 ($202) double. Rates include full buffet breakfast.AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood,
vegetarian); bar; indoor swimming pool; gym; room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; nonsmoking
rooms; beauty treatments. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, radio, trouser press/iron.
INEXPENSIVE
Grasmere Mrs. McCormick presides over this pleasant, well-kept modern
bungalow in a residential area on the edge of Newcastle, off the Bryansford-
Newcastle road (B180), with views of the Mournes. Grasmere is only a 10-
minute walk from the beach, and there are a golf course and some forest walks
nearby. With only three rooms, this B&B definitely feels more intimate than
some travelers might want. But for those on a budget, it offers a comfortable,
clean, relaxed place to stay.
16 Marguerite Park, Bryansford Rd., Newcastle, County Down. & 028/4372-6801. 3 units, 2 with private bath-
room. £50 ($92) double. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Dec 25. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
Kilmorey Arms Hotel In this pleasant seaside resort, the Kilmorey Arms
is a delightful small inn that dates back 200 years. It’s the kind of place Irish and
Northern Irish families return to year after year, and there’s a slightly threadbare,
comforting atmosphere that permeates the entire hotel. Local townspeople use
the attractive public rooms as meeting places, and consequently it’s one of the
busiest places in town. One caveat: The nightclub can get quite loud on week-
end nights, so ask for a room up and away from the fray.
41 Greencastle St., Kilkeel, County Down. & 028/4176-2220. Fax 028/4176-5399. www.kilmorey
armshotel.co.uk. 26 units. £60 ($110) double. Children’s and senior discounts available. Rates include full
breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; nightclub; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV.
Slieve Croob Inn Value This small, family resort offers what is perhaps
the best value for money in the Mournes. The setting—a patchwork of drumlin
pastureland just shy of the Mournes’s peaks—is exceptional. The panoramic
views of Slieve Croob, Newcastle Bay, and the Isle of Man are breathtaking. This
is a rambler’s fantasy, with 8km (5 miles) of trails on Slieve Croob and a plethora
of lazy mountain lanes to explore. The spotless inn is tastefully designed and
outfitted in a homey, mountain-lodge style. There’s simple pine furniture
throughout. In addition to standard doubles, there’s a fabulous three-bedroom
family apartment with its own outer door. The Branny Bar features traditional
music Tuesday to Sunday. There are also 10 one- to three-bedroom self-catering
cottages—appealingly rustic in decor, yet fitted with the conveniences of mod-
ern life.
Seeconnell Centre, 119 Clanvaraghan Rd. (signposted 1.6km/1 mile out of Castlewellan on the A25),
Castlewellan-Clough Rd., Castlewellan, County Down. & 028/4377-1412. Fax 028/4377-1162. 7 units in
the inn; 10 1- to 3-bedroom self-catering cottages. Inn £60 ($110) double. Cottages £350 ($642) per week.
AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; 18-hole golf course; laundry facilities; horseback rid-
ing. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, garment press.
Hannas Close Hannas Close is a meticulously restored clachan, or
Kids
medieval-style extended-family settlement, founded in 1640 and restored/refur-
bished in 1997. On a low bluff over a lovely shallow stream, facing the spectac-
ular Mountains of Mourne, this born-again clachan is so quiet that there’s little
to wake you other than birdsong. In the refurbishment of the cottages, every
effort was made to re-create the past while attending to contemporary codes and
standards of comfort. The cottages, which sleep from two to seven, have every-
thing you’ll need, including central heating. Additionally, all have an open fire-
place or a wood stove. They are ideal for families with kids over 4 years old,
though the steep steps and rustic character of the cottages won’t suit everyone.
A small museum in the Close can help you imagine the former life of the rural
mountainside world you’ll enter here.
Aughnahoory Rd., Kilkeel, County Down. Contact RCH at & 028/9024-1100. Fax 028/9024-1198. www.cottage
sinireland.com. 7 cottages. £275–£450 ($504–$825) per week. Also available for 2- to 3-day stays. Additional
charge for heat and electricity. V. Amenities: Fridge; kitchen; microwave; oven/stove; washing machine.
WHERE TO DINE
Most of the dining in the Mournes, with or without frills, gourmet or generic,
happens in hotels, guesthouses, and pubs. When your stomach growls, be sure
to also consider the accommodations listed above and the pubs listed below.
The Duke Restaurant Value MODERN Chef Ciaran Gallagher has
been making a name for himself in this excellent restaurant above the Duke Bar
in Warrenpoint, garnering critical acclaim and customers galore. He’s a creative
cook who uses restraint and wonderful ingredients to come up with scintillating
tastes. His starter of seared chile beef with crunchy veggies and Thai rice is a
winner; so is the filet of turbot with butternut squash risotto drizzled with bal-
samic vinegar. Seafood is a particular strong point, as Gallagher makes good use
of his proximity to Kilkeel’s fishing port. Steaks are fabulous, too. The midweek
three-course dinner special, offering four choices at each course, is one of the
great dining values on this island. Speaking of value, the wine list offers one
white and one red under £8 ($15) a bottle, along with pricier options.
Above the Duke Bar, 7 Duke St., Warrenpoint (6 miles on A2 from Newry), County Down. Reservations rec-
ommended. & 028/4175-2084. www.thedukerestaurant.com. 3-course dinner £12 ($22) available
Tues–Thurs. Dinner main courses £12–£14 ($22–$26). MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–10pm; Sun 5:30–9pm.
D E R RY C I T Y 535
PUBS
Harbour Inn You won’t find a quainter “wee” harbor on the Down Coast than
Annalong, and the Harbour Inn, as its name suggests, is poised right on the dock.
The black guillemots tend to outnumber anyone else here, but they too welcome
visitors. Awaiting a warm day, picnic tables sit out front for the perfect dockside
happy hour. Otherwise, there’s an inviting lounge and full restaurant serving
lunch, high tea, dinner, and bar snacks. A live band, often of the Irish country-
western persuasion, shows up every Saturday, and there’s an unpredictable disco
now and then. 6 Harbour Dr., Annalong Harbour, Annalong, County Down. & 028/4376-8678.
Jacob Halls If there’s a chill in the air, you’ll leave it behind in Jacob Halls,
with its three massive fires blazing at the least pretense. This well-worn pub is a
hub of hospitality for all ages—all over 18, that is. Vintage local photographs
line the walls. There’s live music Thursday to Sunday, and pub grub from lunch
on. Greencastle St., Kilkeel, County Down. & 028/4176-4751.
The Percy French The Percy French has stood watch over the gates of the
Slieve Donard Hotel for a century. It’s named after the famed Irish composer
who died in 1920, leaving behind these words as an epitaph:
Remember me is all I ask—and yet
If remembrance proves a task—forget.
Forgetting is not a real option, however, as long as this fine old faux-Tudor
pub pours the perfect pint and serves delicious fare. The same beamed roof
encloses both the lounge and a full-service restaurant, with a traditional Irish
menu. There’s live oldies (1960s–1980s) music on Saturday, and a disco every
Friday. Downs Rd., Newcastle, County Down. & 028/4372-3175.
6 Derry City
Derry City is 118km (73 miles) NW of Belfast, 63km (39 miles) SW of Portrush, 113km (70 miles) NW of
Armagh, 98km (61 miles) NE of Enniskillen, 232km (144 miles) NW of Dublin, and 354km (220 miles) NE of
Shannon
Is it Derry or Londonderry? What’s in a name? Traditionally in Northern Ire-
land, what you called the second-largest city of Northern Ireland (pop. 75,000)
was politically loaded. During “the Troubles,” the name issue became a sore
point, with Unionists calling it Londonderry and Catholics calling it Derry. Vis-
itors were left scratching their heads and walking a tightrope of political cor-
rectness. Things are still confusing, though less fraught: Though Londonderry
remains the official name of the city, the official title of the city council is Derry.
More important these days is that Derry is the more commonly used name. The
people of the city have become accustomed to (and amused by) the fine line over
this issue walked by many newspaper and broadcasting organizations. The local
BBC radio station, for example, now routinely refers to the city as “Derry-
stroke-Londonderry.” And tourist authorities now speak of “the Maiden City,”
a coy reference to the fact that the city has never fallen to siege.
Derry is the unofficial capital of the northwestern region of the province. The
city derives its name from the Irish words Doire Calgach, meaning “the oak grove
of Calgach.” Calgach was a warrior who set up a camp here in pre-Christian
times. The name survived until the 10th century, when it became Doire Colm-
cille in honor of St. Columba, who founded his first monastery in Derry in A.D.
546. He is supposed to have written, “The angels of God sang in the glades of
Derry and every leaf held its angel.” Over the years, the name was anglicized to
Derrie, or simply Derry.
Set on a hill on the banks of the Foyle estuary, strategically close to the open
sea, Derry has often been threatened by invaders. At the time of the Plantation
of Ulster in the 17th century, the City of London sent master builders and
money to reconstruct the ruined medieval town, and the name became, for some
of its inhabitants, Londonderry. The city’s great 17th-century walls, about a mile
in circumference and 5.4m (18 ft.) thick, are a legacy from that era. Although
they were the focus of attacks (including sieges in 1641, 1649, and 1689), the
walls withstood many tests of time and remain unbroken. They make Derry one
of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe. The rest of the city’s architec-
ture is largely Georgian, with brick-fronted town houses and imposing public
buildings. Basement-level pubs and shops are common.
About 19km (12 miles) east of the city is another Georgian enclave, the town
of Limavady in the Roe Valley. It was here that Jane Ross wrote down the
tune of a lovely air she heard, played by a fiddler passing through town. It
became the famous “Londonderry Air,” otherwise known as “Danny Boy.”
For longer than anyone wants to remember, Derry was immersed in, and all
but identified with, the Troubles. In the 1960s and 1970s, the North’s civil
rights movement was born here and baptized in blood. The victims of Bloody
Sunday are the symbols of the struggle for equality in the North, an effort for
which this city and its people paid dearly. By 1980, nearly a third of the inner
city was in ruins. But that was then, and this is now. In the years since, Derry
has rebuilt some walls and dismantled others, and has become increasingly
engaged in the struggle to build a new North. Today, Derry is emerging as one
of the most vibrant, happening, and appealing centers of culture and commerce
in Northern Ireland, and it’s destined to become a major tourist mecca, once
word gets out.
Another secret about Derry is how close it is to many of the major sights of
Ireland’s northwest corner. To cite a few highlights, the Inishowen Peninsula, the
Giant’s Causeway and the North Antrim Coast, the Northwest Passage and the
Sperrins, and Glenveagh National Park in Donegal are all within an hour’s drive.
Derry is an ideal base of operations from which to explore one of Ireland’s most
unspoiled and dazzling regions.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE By Plane Service to City of Derry Airport (& 028/
7181-0784; www.cityofderryairport.com) is provided by British Airways
(& 0345/222111; www.british-airways.com) from Glasgow and Manchester, and
by Ryanair (& 0541/569569 in Britain; www.ryanair.com) from London
Stansted. The no. 43 Limavady bus stops at the airport. A taxi for the 13km (8-
mile) journey to the city center costs about £10 ($18). If you’re landing in either of
the Belfast airports, without a connection to Derry, the Airporter coach can take
you straight to Derry. Call & 028/7126-9996 for information and reservations.
By Cruise Ship Derry City is an important port of call for an increasing num-
ber of cruise ships, including six-star luxury liners, which call at the deep-water
facilities at Lisahally or at the city center’s Queen’s Quay. For the latest infor-
mation on cruises to Derry Port, contact the Cruise Development Officer,
Derry City Council, 98 Strand Rd., Derry BT48 7NN (& 028/7136-5151).
By Train Northern Ireland Railways (& 888/BRITRAIL or 028/
9089-9411) operate frequent trains from Belfast and Portrush, which arrive at
the Northern Ireland Railways Station (& 028/7134-2228), on the east side
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Amelia Earhart Centre 1 Guild Hall 5

Bloody Sunday Monument 4 Millennium Complex 8
Central Library 9 Orchard Gallery/Cinema 10
Craft Village 7 Playhouse 14
The Fifth Province 12 The Rialto 15
Foyle Arts Center 2 Cathedral of St. Columb (C.O.I.) 13
Foyle Valley Railway Museum St. Eugene’s Cathedral (R.C.) 3
(Coach Park) 16 Tower Museum 6
Genealogy Centre 11 Workhouse Museum and Library 17
537
of the Foyle River. A free Linkline bus brings passengers from the train station
to the city center.
By Bus The fastest bus between Belfast and Derry, the no. 212 Maiden City
Flyer, operated by Ulsterbus (& 028/7126-2261 in Derry; www.translink.co.uk),
is about twice as fast as the train; it takes a little over 90 minutes. Ulsterbus also
has service from Portrush and Portstewart. From the Republic, Bus Eireann offers
three buses a day from Galway’s Bus Eireann Travel Centre, Ceannt Station,
Galway (& 091/562000; www.buseireann.ie), via Sligo and Donegal; and there’s
one bus daily to and from Cork. Lough Swilly Bus Service (& 028/7126-2017)
serves Derry from a number of towns in County Donegal, including Dunfanaghy
and Letterkenny.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Derry Visitor and Convention Bureau
and Tourist Information Centre is at 44 Foyle St., Derry (& 028/7137-7577;
fax 028/7137-7992). It’s open October to March, Monday to Friday 9am to
5pm; April to June, Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 5pm;
July to September, Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm, Saturday 10am to 7pm, Sun-
day 10am to 5pm. For all you ever wanted to know about Derry, consult
www.derryvisitor.com.
GETTING AROUND Ulsterbus, Foyle Street Depot, Derry (& 028/
7126-2261; www.translink.co.uk), operates local bus service to the suburbs.
There is no bus service within the walls of the small, easily walkable city. The
black London-style taxis you’ll see are known in Derry and Belfast as “people’s
taxis.” These taxis primarily serve nationalist areas outside the walls and will not
go to most areas of interest to tourists. Use any of the other taxis available
throughout the city, which are plentiful and reasonably priced.
There are taxi stands at the Ulsterbus Depot, Foyle Street (& 028/
7126-2262), and at the Northern Ireland Railways Station, Duke Street,
Waterside (& 028/7134-2228). To call a cab, contact Co-Op Taxis (& 028/
7137-1666), Derry Taxi Association (& 028/7126-0247), or Foyle Taxis
(& 028/7126-3905).
Local car-rental offices include Europcar (& 028/9031-3500) and Argus
Car Rentals (& 353-1/490-4444) at the City of Derry Airport.
The focal point of Derry is the Diamond, a square in the center of the city,
just west of the banks of the Foyle River. Four streets radiate out from the Dia-
mond: Bishop, Ferryquay, Shipquay, and Butcher. Each extends for several
blocks and ends at a walled gateway of the same name (Bishop’s Gate, Ferryquay
Gate, Shipquay Gate, and Butcher’s Gate). A massive wall that rings the inner
city connects the gates.
Two bridges connect the east and west banks of the River Foyle. The
Craigavon Bridge, built in 1933, is one of the few examples of a double-decker
bridge in the British Isles. The Foyle Bridge, Ireland’s longest bridge, opened in
1984 and provides a dual-lane highway about 3.2km (2 miles) north of the
Craigavon Bridge. West of the river are two major areas: the walled inner city
and, farther west, an area known as the Bogside. East of the Foyle is the area usu-
ally referred to as Waterside, where most of the fine hotels and many of the city’s
restaurants are located. Also in Waterside is a small grassy viewing point called
the “Top of the Hill,” where you can enjoy spectacular eagle’s-eye views of the
city and its splendid environs. You’ll never find your own way there, so take a
taxi and bring your map. Short of a helicopter tour, this is the best way to get
your initial bearings.
FAST FACTS In the city center, the Bank of Ireland (& 028/7126-4992) is
on Shipquay Street, and the Ulster Bank (& 028/7126-1882) is at Waterloo
Place. Both are open weekdays 9:30am (10am on Wed) to 4:30pm. The North-
ern Bank (& 028/7126-5333) at Shipquay Place is open Saturday 9:30am to
12:30pm, in addition to the typical weekday hours.
In an emergency, dial & 999 for fire, police, and ambulance. Altnagevin
Hospital is on Glenshane Road (& 028/7134-5171). The main RUC or police
station is on Strand Road (& 028/7136-7337).
Internet access is available at the Central Library, 35 Foyle St. in the city cen-
ter (& 028/7127-2300), for £3 ($5.50) per hour.
The main post office, 3 Custom House St. (& 028/7136-2563), is open
Monday 8:30am to 5:30pm, Tuesday to Friday 9am to 5:30pm, Saturday 9am
to 12:30pm.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
The Derry Visitor and Convention Bureau sponsors Inner City Walking Tours,
June to September Monday to Friday. They depart at 10:30am and 2:30pm
from the Tourist Information Centre, 44 Foyle St. The price is £4 ($7.35)
adults, £3 ($5.50) seniors and children. McNamara Walking Tours (& 028/
7134-5335) offers an informative, entertaining walking tour of the city June to
September, daily at 10am, noon, 2, and 4pm. The cost is £4 ($7.35) adults, £2
($3.65) seniors and children.
Finally, if you’re tired of walking and want to be conducted in regal fashion,
Martin McGowan will take you by horse-drawn carriage through the old city
and unravel its history as you go. Excursions cost around £35 ($64) for 90 min-
utes. Call Charabanc Tours (& 028/7127-1886) for details and reservations
from May to October.
Amelia Earhart Centre Located 4.8km (3 miles) north of Derry off the A2
road, this cottage commemorates Amelia Earhart’s landing here in 1932, as the
first woman to fly the Atlantic solo. The grounds encompass the Ballyarnett
Community Farm and Wildlife Centre, with a range of farmyard animals and
wildlife.
Ballyarnett, County Derry. & 028/7135-4040. Free admission. Cottage Mon–Thurs 10am–4pm, Fri
10am–1pm; farm and sanctuary daily 10am–dusk.
Cathedral of St. Columb Within the city walls, near the Bishop’s Gate,
this cathedral, built as a Church of Ireland edifice between 1628 and 1633, is a
fine example of the Planters Gothic style of architecture. It was the first cathe-
dral built in Europe after the Reformation. Several sections were added after-
ward, including the impressive spire and stained-glass windows that depict
scenes from the great siege of 1688 and 1689. The chapter house contains a
Fun Fact A Poetic Persona

Born and educated in Derry, the celebrated contemporary poet Seamus
Heaney (b. 1939) has been called Ireland’s Robert Frost and, perhaps more
appropriately, a latter-day Yeats. Heaney’s poems about his homeland in the
North of Ireland appear in his collections North (1975), Field Work (1979),
Station Island (1984), and Seeing Things (1991). In 1995 he was awarded the
Nobel Prize for Literature, the fourth Irishman to be so honored.
display of city relics, including the four original keys to the city gates, and an
audiovisual presentation that provides background on the history of the build-
ing and the city.
London St., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7126-7313. £1 ($1.85) donation requested. Mar–Oct Mon–Sat
9am–5pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 2–4pm.
Genealogy Centre Did your ancestors come from Derry or nearby? If you’re
of Irish ancestry, it’s possible, and maybe even likely. Derry served as the princi-
pal port for thousands of emigrants who left Ulster for the New World in the
18th and 19th centuries; records show that Ulster men and women became the
second-most-numerous group in the colonial population, and played an impor-
tant role in the American Revolution and the settlement of the West. This her-
itage library and Genealogy Centre, in the heart of the old walled city, can help
you research your Derry roots.
Heritage Library, 14 Bishop St., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7126-9792. Fax 028/7136-0921. www.irish
roots.net/Derry.htm. £30 ($55) initial search fee. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm.
Guild Hall Just outside the city walls, between Shipquay Gate and the
River Foyle, this Tudor Gothic–style building looks much like its counterpart in
London. The site’s original structure was built in 1890, but it was rebuilt after a
fire in 1908 and after a series of bombings in 1972. The hall is distinguished by
its huge four-faced clock and by its stained-glass windows, made by Ulster
craftsmen, that illustrate almost every episode of note in the city’s history. The
hall is used as a civic and cultural center for concerts, plays, and exhibitions.
Shipquay Place, Derry, County Derry. & 028/7137-7335. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun by
appointment. Free guided tours July–Aug.
Orchard Gallery The Orchard Gallery, founded in 1978, is Derry’s

prime venue for contemporary visual art. Mounting 20 or more exhibitions and
events each year, the gallery fosters and displays the work of a wide range of con-
temporary local, Irish, and international artists. Central to the gallery’s mission,
as well, is its innovative, multifaceted Education and Community Outreach
Scheme. The art that originates here is meant to provoke a generously creative
and collaborative response from the wider community, especially Derry’s youth.
Sharing the same building with the Orchard Gallery is the Orchard Cinema,
where you’re likely to find the latest international films.
Orchard St., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7126-9675. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm.
St. Eugene’s Cathedral Designed in the Gothic Revival style, this is

Derry’s Catholic cathedral, nestled in the heart of the Bogside district just
beyond the city walls. The foundation stone was laid in 1851, but work contin-
ued until 1873. The spire was added in 1902. It’s built of local sandstone and is
known for its stained-glass windows depicting the Crucifixion, by Meyer of
Munich.
Fransic St., Derry, County Derry. Free admission. Mon–Sat 7am–9pm; Sun 7am–6:30pm.
Tower Museum Housed in O’Doherty Tower, a medieval-style fort, this

award-winning museum presents the history of the city, from its geological for-
mation to the present day. Visitors are invited to walk through time, and a series
of exhibits and audiovisual presentations provoke their imaginations along the
way. The Tower’s collection of historical artifacts includes items salvaged from
the Spanish Armada, ravaged by storms off the Irish coast in 1588. The Tower
Museum, a must for all visitors to Derry, is just inside the city walls next to
Shipquay Gate, and is currently being expanded to include a new Spanish

Armada museum (due for completion in spring 2005).
Union Hall Place, Derry, County Derry. & 028/7137-2411. Admission £4.20 ($7.70) adults, £2 ($3.65) sen-
iors, students, and children, £9 ($17) families. July–Aug Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm; Sept–June
Tues–Sat 10am–5pm.
The Workhouse Museum and Library This splendid, compact

museum on the Waterside, only minutes from Derry Centre, opened in May
1998 and is still being developed. It occupies the central building—the inmates’
dorms and the master’s quarters—of a 19th-century workhouse complex. The
story told here is both grim and moving. Built to employ and maintain the poor,
the workhouse was little more than a concentration camp. A visit ensures that
you will leave feeling deliriously fortunate. This museum also presents intrigu-
ing multimedia exhibitions focused on two moments in Derry’s history: the
Great Famine, when between 1845 and 1849 roughly 12,000 people a year left
Ireland forever from the port of Derry; and the Battle of the Atlantic, when
Derry played a major role in the defeat of the Kriegsmarine. The German U-
boat fleet surrendered at Derry in May 1945.
23 Glendermott Rd., Waterside, Derry, County Derry. & 028/7131-8328. Free admission. Year-round
Tues–Sat 10am–4:30pm.
SHOPPING
The city center offers some fine shopping, including two modern multistory
malls: the Richmond Centre, facing the Diamond at the corner of Shipquay
and Ferryquay Streets; and the new Foyleside Shopping Centre, just outside
the walls. London Street, beside St. Columb’s Cathedral, is Derry’s antiques
row, where most of the city’s antiques and curio shops cluster.
In general, shops are open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm. Shops in the
two large shopping centers are open Monday to Wednesday and Saturday 9am
to 5:30pm, Thursday and Friday 9am to 9pm. In the summer, some shops are
open on Sunday.
Austin & Co., Ltd. This is the city’s landmark three-story Victorian-style
department store, specializing in fashions, perfumes, china, crystal, and linens.
It’s the island of Ireland’s oldest department store, established in 1839. The cof-
fee shop on the third floor looks out on a panorama of the city. The Diamond, Derry,
County Derry. & 028/7126-1817.
Derry Craft Village In the heart of the inner city near the Tower, this unique
shopping complex reflects Old Derry, with architecture of the 16th to 19th cen-
turies. It houses retail shops, workshops, residential units, and a thatched-
cottage pub offering an Irish Night (ceili and supper) almost every Thursday in
July and August. Shipquay St. (enter on Shipquay or Magazine St.), Derry, County Derry.
& 028/7126-0329.
MTM Whether you’ve left home without your favorite tapes or are looking for
something more local on the Irish traditional scene, you’re likely to find it here.
You can book tickets for major concerts and plays throughout the island. Rich-
mond Centre, Derry, County Derry. & 028/7137-1970.

BICYCLING Whether you want to rent a bike and do your own exploring or
sign up for a cycling tour of County Derry and County Donegal, An Mointean
Rent-a-Bike and Cycle Tours, 245 Lone Moor Rd., Derry (& 028/7128-7128),
offers excellent service. Rental of mountain or touring bikes costs £10 ($18) a day,
£45 ($83) a week. Package tours with bed-and-breakfast included are also available.
FISHING The Foyle System of rivers makes this a promising area for snag-
ging brown and sea trout (Apr to early July and Sept) and a variety of salmon
(Mar–Sept). In addition, there is a stocked lake at Glenowen. Call Glenowen
Fisheries Co-operative (& 028/7137-1544) for bookings. You can outfit
yourself and get useful information at Rod and Line, 1 Clarendon St., Derry
(& 028/7126-2877). If you’re looking for an experienced local ghillie (guide) or
boatman, contact Mark Stewart, Salmon Anglers Northwest, c/o Glenowen
Fisheries Co-operative (& 028/7137-1544), or Lance Thompson, Faughan
Angler’s Association, 26a Carlisle Rd., Derry (& 028/7126-7781). For a game-
fishing rod license (£15/$28 per season), contact the Foyle and Carlingford
Locks Agency, 8 Victoria Rd., Derry (& 028/7134-2100).
GOLF Derry has two 18-hole parkland courses: the City of Derry Golf
Club, 49 Victoria Rd. (& 028/7134-6369), with greens fees of £24 ($44)
weekdays, £28 ($51) weekends; and the very inexpensive Foyle International
Golf Centre, 12 Alder Rd., Derry (& 028/7135-2222; www.foylegolfcentre.
co.uk), which charges greens fees of £13 ($24) weekdays, £17 ($31) weekends.
It is always best to phone ahead. Weekdays are best for visitors at the City of
Derry Golf Club; any day of the week should be fine at the Foyle Golf Centre.
HORSEBACK RIDING Ardmore Stables, 8 Rushall Rd., Ardmore
(& 028/7134-5187), offers lessons, trail rides, and pony trekking. Across the
border, only 6.5km (4 miles) from Derry in County Donegal, Lenamore Sta-
bles, Muff, Inishowen (& 077/84022; [email protected]), also offers
lessons and trekking, and has guest accommodations.
WALKING In Derry, walking the city walls is a must. Just outside the city,
off the main Derry-Belfast road, you’ll come across Ness Woods, where there are
scenic walks and nature trails, as well as the North’s highest waterfall.
WHERE TO STAY
M O D E R AT E
Beech Hill Country House Hotel In a residential area southeast of the
city, this lovely country-house hotel dates from 1729. Antiques and marble fire-
places decorate the public areas, and some of the pleasant guest rooms have four-
poster beds with frilly floral covers. The hotel’s elegant Ardmore restaurant is,
amazingly, all nonsmoking. The wooded grounds are lovely, and there’s an arbor
of beech trees for which the hotel is named.
32 Ardmore Rd., Derry, County Derry. & 800/44-PRIMA in the U.S. or 028/7134-9279. Fax 028/7134-5366.
www.beech-hill.com. 27 units. £80 ($147) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); bar; lounge; minigym; Jacuzzi; sauna/steam room. In room: TV, tea/cof-
feemaker, hair dryer, garment press.
Broomhill Hotel Lovely views of Lough Foyle are a feature of this modern
hotel, on its own grounds in a residential area 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) east of the city,
on the main road near the Foyle Bridge. Rooms are modern, with standard fur-
nishings, welcome trays, and garment presses. The Garden Restaurant offers
views of the river and the city.
Limavady Rd., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7134-7995. Fax 028/7134-9304. 42 units. £65 ($119) double.
Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar. In room: TV,
tea/coffeemaker, garment press.
Value A Note on Prices

Derry prices for both accommodations and dining are exceptionally rea-
sonable. The fact that Derry has barely any expensive hotels or restau-
rants does not mean that it lacks first-class lodging or dining. The city
offers more for less and is, for the foreseeable future, a real bargain.
Clarence House Mr. Michael Slevin offers singles, doubles, twin rooms,
and family rooms in this well-kept brick Victorian guesthouse, which is the old-
est operating B&B in Derry. Rooms are quite comfortable, and the house and
its host have become favorites of BBC and RTE television crews, who return
again and again. The washing and ironing facilities are a bonus. Dinner and
babysitting can be arranged for an extra charge, and there are restaurants within
easy walking distance.
15 Northland Rd., Derry, County Derry. &/fax 028/7126-5342. www.clarenceguesthouse.co.uk. 11 units, 7
with private bathroom. £65 ($119) double with bathroom; £60 ($110) for double with shared bathroom. Chil-
dren’s discount available. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Limited free parking available. Amenities:
Babysitting; laundry facilities; sitting room. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Everglades Hotel Value This is Derry’s best hotel. On a hill overlooking

the east bank of Lough Foyle in the prosperous Waterside district, this three-
story contemporary hotel takes its name from Florida’s Everglades. Like much of
Florida, the hotel is built on reclaimed waterfront land. Guest rooms are luxu-
riously decorated in quality contemporary furnishings and smart designer fab-
rics. The tasteful Library Bar features live jazz on weekends.
Prehen Rd., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7132-1066. 64 units. www.hastingshotels.com. £80–£110
($147–$202) double. Rates include full breakfast. High tea £10 ($18); dinner £17 ($31). AE, DC, V. Free park-
ing. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; room service; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room:
White Horse Hotel Value This hotel, once an old inn and now part of the
Best Western chain, is a favorite of tour operators and one of the more appeal-
ing moderately priced hotels in the North. Its countryside setting 6.5km (4
miles) northeast of the city, on the Limavady road, is restful, and there’s good,
frequent bus service into Derry. Guest rooms are spacious and well appointed in
a homey, traditional style.
68 Clooney Rd., Campsie, County Derry. & 028/7186-0606. Fax 028/7186-0371. www.bestwestern.com. 56
units. £60 ($110) double. Rates include full breakfast. Weekly and weekend discounts available. AE, DC, MC, V.
Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant (international); bar; laundry facilities. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
INEXPENSIVE
The Saddlers House and the Merchant’s House Value These two 19th-
century town houses are the best budget B&Bs in Derry. Peter and Joan Pyne have
beautifully restored these two historic gems into award-winners. The Saddlers
House is cozy Victorian. The more elegant Merchant’s House is late Georgian and
has been revived with such care that it won a Civic Trusts Ireland conservation
award. It is among the last Georgian-style houses still in service as residences in
Derry. These two houses are several blocks from each other and are only minutes
away by foot from Derry center. At the risk of runaway alliteration, they offer con-
siderable comfort, convenience, character, and charm at budget rates.
Saddlers House, 36 Great James St., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7126-9691. Fax 028/7126-6913. www.the
saddlershouse.com. 7 units, 3 with private bathroom. £50 ($92) double with bathroom; £45 ($82) double with
shared bathroom. Merchant’s House, 16 Queen St., Derry. & 028/7126-4223. Fax 028/7126-6913. 5 units,
1 with private bathroom. £50 ($92) double with bathroom; £45 ($82) double with shared bathroom. Chil-
dren’s and senior discounts available. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Sitting room.
In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker.
Trinity Hotel Value One of the city’s newest hotels, the Travel
Lodge–owned Trinity merges clean modern lines with more traditional design
elements. Large windows overlooking the street echo the surrounding Georgian
neighborhood. The spacious rooms are tastefully decorated in warm, restful
tones, accented by modern furniture in attractive maple veneer. The overall
effect is chic and fanciful without compromising comfort. The brilliant bath-
rooms with towel warmers softly whisper “bubble bath.” Fans of Who Wants to
Be a Millionaire should note that Nolan’s Bistro is a convivial late-night spot
with a Wednesday quiz night.
22–24 Strand Rd., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7127-1271. Fax 028/7127-1277. 40 units. £49 ($90) double.
Luxury suites available. Continental breakfast £4.50 ($8.25). AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restau-
rants (international, bistro); bar; complimentary access to nearby fitness center; currency exchange. In room:
WHERE TO DINE
M O D E R AT E
Ardmore Room Restaurant CONTINENTAL Lunch in this pretty din-
ing room draws many business types, who can relax in what was once a billiard
room overlooking gardens while enjoying a superb meal. In the evening, there’s
a soft, romantic ambience. Among the outstanding specialties are monkfish
accompanied by vegetables with ginger and balsamic vinaigrette, and brill
poached in champagne with dill butter sauce. There’s an extensive international
wine list, as well as an extraordinary selection of home-baked specialty breads.
Beech Hill Country House Hotel, 32 Ardmore Rd., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7134-9279. Reservations rec-
ommended. Fixed-price 4-course dinner £25 ($46); dinner main courses £13–£19 ($24–$35). MC, V. Daily
noon–2:30pm and 6–9:30pm.
Brown’s Bar and Brasserie MODERN INTERNATIONAL Behind

the unassuming exterior of this Waterside area row house, you will find some of
the finest food in Derry. This lively spot has won a dedicated local clientele and
attracted the attention of distant connoisseurs. The decor is warm, streamlined,
and minimalist, with sculptural dried-flower arrangements—conducive to quiet
conversation or a gathering of friends. The innovative menu blends the best of
modern Irish, Italian, and Thai influences with an emphasis on fresh and, when
possible, organic ingredients. Dishes include roast loin of lamb on buttery
whipped parsnips with mint and apricot jus; supreme of chicken with parsnip
purée and tiger prawn–coconut sauce; and fennel and lime marinated whole sea
bass with chile chick peas and baby plum tomatoes. For a dramatic climax, go for
the architecturally ambitious pineapple and toffee sponge with citrus fruit salad.
1–2 Bond’s Hill, Waterside, Derry, County Derry. & 028/7134-5180. www.brownsrestaurant.com. Reserva-
tions recommended. Main courses £10–£15 ($16–$24). MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm; Tues–Thurs
5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm.
Da Vinci’s Bar and Restaurant INTERNATIONAL The glow of can-

dlelight and rich Renaissance reds and blues romantically warm the rough stone
walls, arched doorways, and dramatic wrought-iron fittings. But it’s the food
that will coax the informed diner to venture a short distance (5 min.) from
Derry center. You can choose from delights such as grilled sea bass with tikka
crust and lime-cherry relish, or pesto cream over tender chicken breast stuffed
with sun-dried tomatoes. Stop in to see the magnificent mahogany central bar
and its towering three-faced clock, which just might have sprung from
Leonardo’s imagination after a few pints.
15 Culmore Rd., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7127-9111. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses
£9–£16 ($17–$29). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–9:30pm; Sun noon–2:30pm and 5:30–9pm.
Spice Restaurant INTERNATIONAL It bodes well that this place is

always crowded with locals, even on weeknights. The bistrolike menu is vast,
featuring Thai, Portuguese, Caribbean, Indian, and traditional Irish entrees.
Choices include coconut-crusted chicken with coriander and tiger prawns, or
seared salmon with mango and chile sauce with fresh linguine. The modest wine
list is well selected and affordable.
Spencer Rd., Waterside, Derry, County Derry. & 028/7134-4875. Reservations recommended. Dinner main
courses £10–£15 ($18–$28). MC, V. Tues–Fri 12:30–2:30pm; Tues–Sat 5:30–10:30pm; Sun 5–9pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Badger’s PUB GRUB This comfortable corner pub restaurant is just the
place to enjoy a simple, satisfying dinner before the theater, or to settle into after
your day’s adventures for a drink and a chat. Tastefully decorated and graced
with stained glass and wood paneling, the two levels have a Victorian feel but
were designed with a more modern appreciation of light and openness. It’s a
popular meeting spot for locals who come for the friendly service and such well-
prepared favorites as savory steak, vegetable and Guinness casserole with a crisp
puff-pastry lid, or the flavorful hot sandwiches known as “damper melts.”
16–18 Orchard St., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7136-0763. Reservations not accepted. Dinner main courses
£5–£10 ($9.15–$18). MC, V. Mon noon–3pm; Tues–Thurs noon–7pm; Fri–Sat noon–9:30pm.
Ramsey’s Cafe CAFETERIA At this great budget-minded drop-in eatery

in the heart of the city, Anne Ramsey dishes up heaping plates of hot meals, fresh
salads, fish and chips, and a variety of bakery items. It’s self-service and very busy
at almost any hour.
10 William St., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7126-9236. Main courses £3–£6 ($5.50–$11). No credit cards.
Mon–Sat 8am–3am; Sun 6pm–3am.
DERRY AFTER DARK

One thing to keep in mind as you’re sketching out your after-dark plans is that
Derry is one of Ireland’s most youthful cities—roughly 40% of its population is
under 30. This fact, coupled with an 18-year-old drinking age, means that the
night scene is mostly driven by the young—few, if any, gray hairs appear in the
hottest spots. On weekends, after 1 or 2am when the clubs empty, the city cen-
ter can become a rather loud and volatile area.
THE PERFORMING ARTS
Derry has long been associated with the arts, especially theater, poetry, and music.
While its financial resources have been modest, its commitment remains inventive
and tenacious. Last year’s completion of the new Millennium Forum, Newmar-
ket Street (box office & 028/7126-4455), inside the city walls, brought a grand
cultural meeting place and superb theater into Derry’s art scene. Other principal
venues for concerts, plays, and poetry readings are the Guild Hall, Shipquay Place
(& 028/7136-5151); and the Playhouse, 5–7 Artillery St. (& 028/7126-8027).
Ticket prices for most performances range from £5 to £15 ($9.15–$28).
PUBS
Derry City pubs rarely resemble the small, cozy nooks you often find in the
Republic. They tend to be rather grand by comparison and a bit theatrical, more
like stage sets than parlors. In addition, Derry pubs are known for their music
and communal quiz evenings, when teams compete in a free-range Irish form of
Trivial Pursuit. There are even pub debating contests, in the midst of which
you’ll hear Irish eloquence at its well-lubricated best. Here’s a small sampling of
Derry’s more-than-ample pub options.
Along Waterloo Street, just outside the city walls, are a handful of Derry’s
most traditional and popular pubs, known for their live music and simply as the
place to be. The Dungloe, the Gweedore, and Peador O’Donnells are three
well-established hot spots. Walk from one end of Waterloo to the other, which
will take you all of 2 minutes, and you’ll likely find the bar for you.
In addition to visiting Sandino’s (see below), gay and lesbian travelers might
want to check out Ascension, at 64 Strand Rd. It’s open until 1am most days
and has free disco on Tuesday and Thursday and karaoke on Sunday.
The Clarendon This inviting bar offers more quiet and calm than most of
Derry’s bars. It’s a congenial pub for those who have broken 30 and are some-
where beyond the sonic boom. You can have a conversation here as well as a
drink. 48 Strand Rd., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7126-3705.
River Inn These two adjoining bars make up the oldest pub in Derry. The
downstairs River Inn inhabits cellars opened to the thirsty public in 1684.
Thursday is cocktail night. Shipquay St., Derry, County Derry. & 028/7136-7463.
Sandino’s Cafe Bar In 1999, the Irish Times named this tiny place one of the
100 top pubs in Ireland. It’s certainly one of Derry’s trendiest bars, where many
of the city’s gays and lesbians and literary folks prefer to settle in for the evening.
Its “South of the Border” theme refers to the States’ Mexican border, not to the
North’s border on the Republic. There’s a different band on every night of the
week, every week of the month. This intriguing shoe box of a bar can only fit
30 people comfortably, so come early to secure a place for the evening. Water St.,
Derry, County Derry. & 028/7130-9297.
THE CLUB SCENE

Provided you’re under 25 and have no plans to be a piano tuner, there are sev-
eral places where you’ll want to be seen if not heard. Two multi-entertainment
complexes stand out. First, there’s Sugar Night Club, 33 Shipquay St. (& 028/
7126-6017), behind the Townsman bar. Once you pay the cover charge, usually
£4 to £5 ($7.35–$9.15), you can make your way up to the VIP or farther back
to the 1,200-capacity voxbox. The Strand, 31–35 Strand Rd. (& 028/
7126-0494), features a classy bar serving mostly pub grub, and downstairs, an
open venue for live bands. On weekend nights, in the bar, the tables are moved
aside and the Strand morphs into a nightclub for the 20-plus crowd.
The night scene in Derry, like anywhere else, is a movable feast, so be sure to
check the current What’s On? listings.
7 The Sperrin Mountains

65km (40 miles) E to W along the Derry-Tyrone border
Southeast of Derry, the Sperrin Mountains slowly rise up out of County Tyrone.
They reach their highest point at Sawel, from which you can see as far as the
Foyle Estuary and across the Northern Ireland countryside to Lough Neagh and
T H E S P E R R I N M O U N TA I N S 547
the Mournes. This is splendid wide-open walking country that golden plover,
red grouse, and thousands upon thousands of sheep call home.
In the Sperrins, you won’t be likely to find the tallest, oldest, deepest, or most
famous of anything in Ireland. Even the highest peak in the range—Sawel, at
661m (2,204 ft.)—is an easy climb. This is Ireland in a minor key. It is a corner
of Ireland largely unsung and unspoiled. You’ll see mostly wildflowers here, rather
than formal gardens, and cottages rather than castles. All the same, gold has been
found in these mountains. Poetry, too. The Nobel-winning poet Seamus Heaney
grew up on the edge of the Sperrins and found words to suit their subtle splendor.
Unless you come to farm, chances are you’ll spend your time exploring the
dark-russet blanket bogs and purple heathland, the gorse-covered hillsides, and
the lovely forest parks, whether on foot, cycle, or horseback. For the more
acquisitive, there are salmon and trout on the Foyle System from Strabane to
Omagh, as well as game on the moors. There are also a few first-rate historical
museums and sights for the whole family. As for minor destinations for a morn-
ing walk or an afternoon drive, there’s no shortage of standing stones (about
1,000 have been counted), high crosses, dolmens, and hill forts—more
reminders that every last bit of bog on this island has its own slew of stories, if
only we could hear them told.
VISITOR INFORMATION There are four nationally networked tourist
information centers in County Tyrone. The Cookstown Centre, 48
Molesworth St., Cookstown (& 028/8676-6727), is open weekdays 9am to
5:30pm, with weekend and extended hours Easter to September. The Kilmaddy
Centre, Ballgawley Road (off A4), Dungannon (& 028/8776-7259), is open
Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 4pm. The Omagh Centre, 1
Market St., Omagh (& 028/8224-7831), is open Easter to September, Monday
to Saturday 9am to 5pm; October to Easter, Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm.
The Strabane Centre, Abercorn Square, Strabane (& 028/7188-3735), is open
April to October, Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 5pm.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
An Creagán Visitors’ Centre This is a helpful place to get your bearings in the
Sperrins. Besides viewing interpretive exhibitions on the region, you can find the
best cycling and trekking routes, rent bicycles, and have a meal in the restaurant.
A505 (20km/13 miles east of Omagh), Creggan, County Tyrone. & 028/8076-1112. Admission £1.50
($2.75) adults, £1 ($1.85) children. Apr–Sept daily 11am–6:30pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Fri 11am–4:30pm.
Beaghmore Stone Circles In 1945, six stone circles and a complex

assembly of cairns and alignments were uncovered here, in remote moorland
north of Evishbrack Mountain and near Davagh Forest Park on the southern
edge of the Sperrins. The precise function of this intriguing concentration of
Bronze Age stonework is unknown, but it may have involved astronomical
observation and calculation.
17km (11 miles) northwest of Cookstown, signposted from A505 to Omagh, County Tyrone.
Drum Manor Forest Park Once a private estate, this extensive park and
woodland has numerous trails and three old walled gardens, one of which has
been designed as a butterfly garden. There is also a pond that attracts a variety
of wildfowl, a heronry, and a visitor center with exhibits on butterflies and other
local wildlife.
4km (21⁄2 miles) west of Cookstown on A505, County Tyrone. & 028/8676-2774. Admission £3 ($5.50) per
car; pedestrians £1 ($1.85) adults, 50p (90¢) children. Daily 10am–dusk.
Gortin Glen Forest Park Nearly 400 hectares (1,000 acres) of planted
conifers make up this beautiful nature park, established in 1967. The woodlands
are a habitat to a variety of wildlife, including a herd of Japanese silka deer. The
park’s 7.3km (41⁄2-mile) forest drive offers some splendid vistas of the Sperrins.
There is also a nature center, wildlife enclosures, trails, and a cafe. For those
planning to arrive and leave on foot, the Ulster Way passes through the park.
B48 (11km/7 miles north of Omagh), Cullion, County Tyrone. & 028/8164-8217. Free admission. Parking £3
($5.50). Daily 9am to 1 hr. before sunset.
Grant Ancestral Home This farm cottage was the home of the ancestors of
Ulysses S. Grant, 18th president of the United States. Grant’s maternal great-
grandfather, John Simpson, was born here and emigrated to Pennsylvania in
1738 at the age of 22. The cottage has two rooms with mud floors and has been
restored and furnished with period pieces, including a settle bed and dresser. The
site includes a visitor center with an audiovisual presentation, a tearoom, and
various exhibits, including a collection of typical 18th-century agricultural
implements.
32km (20 miles) southeast of Omagh off A4, Dergina, Ballygawley, County Tyrone. & 028/7188-3735.
Admission £1 ($1.85) adults, 50p (90¢) seniors and children. Apr–Sept Mon–Sat noon–5pm; Sun 2–6pm.
Gray’s Printers’ Museum The museum and print shop housed together
here are unrelated (apart from being “flatmates”). The print shop, maintained by
the National Trust, dates from 1760. It has an attractive bow-front window and
an exhibit of 19th-century hand-operated printing presses. John Dunlop,
founder of the first daily newspaper in the United States and printer of the
American Declaration of Independence, learned his trade here. An audiovisual
show provides insight into how the original presses operated and the part Dun-
lop played in America’s early printing days. The museum, operated by the local
district council, is a venue for changing exhibits germane to the history and cul-
ture of the region. Access to the printing press is through the museum.
49 Main St., Strabane, County Tyrone. & 028/7188-4094. Admission £2 ($3.65) adults, £1 ($1.85) children,
£5 ($9.15) families. Museum Tues–Fri 11am–5pm; Sat 11:30am–5pm. Guided tours of printing press Apr–Sept
Tues–Sat 2–5pm.
Plantation of Ulster Visitor Centre This newish interpretive center tells

the story of the Ulster Plantation of 1610, which marked the completion of the
Elizabethan Conquest of Ireland. To do so, it uses an array of graphic images,
audiovisual presentations, and interactive displays. Anyone wanting to understand
the divisions that to this day define Irish geography and disrupt Irish life would do
well to consider the center’s informative and moving exhibits. The restaurant
serves homemade meals, and the gift shop stocks a selection of local crafts.
50 High St., Draperstown, County Derry. & 028/7962-7800. Admission £3.50 ($6.40) adults, £3 ($5.50) sen-
iors and students, £2 ($3.65) children, £8 ($15) families. July–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 11am–4pm;
Oct–June Mon–Fri 10am–4pm.
Sperrin Heritage Centre Here, in the heart of the Sperrins, is the place
to get the local bearings and background. A range of computerized presentations
and other exhibits introduce the history, culture, geology, and wildlife of the
region. This is a gold-mining area, and for a small additional fee (70p/$1.30
adults, 40p/75¢ children) you’ll get a chance to try your hand at panning for
gold. A cafeteria, craft shop, and nature trail share the grounds.
274 Glenelly Rd. (east of Plumbridge off B47), Cranagh, County Tyrone. & 028/8164-8142. Admission £2.35
($4.30) adults, £1.45 ($2.65) seniors and children. Apr–Sept Mon–Fri 11:30am–5:30pm; Sat 11:30am–6pm;
Sun 2–6pm.
T H E S P E R R I N M O U N TA I N S 549
Tyrone Crystal With a 200-year-old tradition, this crystal factory is one

of Ireland’s oldest and best known. Visitors are welcome to tour the operation
and see glass being blown and crafted, carved, and engraved by hand. A 25-
minute audiovisual presentation tells the story of the development of Tyrone
Crystal, a showroom displays the finished products, and a very good cafe adds
sustenance.
Oaks Rd. (3.2km/2 miles east of town), Killybrackey, Dungannon, County Tyrone. & 028/8772-5335. Admis-
sion £2 ($3.65) adults, free for seniors and children. Craft shop Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. Tours all year at 11am,
noon, 2pm, and 3pm. Year-round daily 9:30am–5pm.
Ulster-American Folk Park This outdoor museum presents the story of

emigration from this part of rural Ireland to America in the 18th and 19th cen-
turies. There are reconstructions of the thatched cottages the emigrants left
behind, and replicas of the log cabins that became their homes on the American
frontiers. The park developed around the homestead where Thomas Mellon was
born in 1813. He went to Pittsburgh and prospered to the point where his son
Andrew became one of the world’s richest men. The Mellon family donated part
of the funding to build this excellent park. Walk-through exhibits include a
forge, weaver’s cottage, smokehouse, schoolhouse, post office, Sperrin Mountain
famine cabin, and full-scale replica of an emigrant ship in a dockside area that
features original buildings from the ports of Derry, Belfast, and Newry. A self-
guided tour of all the exhibits, which are staffed by interpreters in period cos-
tume, takes about 2 hours. Musical events that tie in with the Ulster-American
theme, such as a bluegrass music festival in September, take place each year.
Mellon Rd. (4.8km/3 miles north of Omagh on A5), Castletown, Camphill, Omagh, County Tyrone.
& 028/8224-3292. www.folkpark.com. Admission £4 ($6.30) adults, £2.50 ($3.95) seniors and children
5–16, £10 ($16) families. Oct–Easter Mon–Fri 10:30am–5pm; Easter–Sept Mon–Sat 10:30am–6pm, Sun
11am–6:30pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing.
Wilson Ancestral Home This small thatched, whitewashed cottage on the

slopes of the Sperrin Mountains was the home of Judge James Wilson, grandfa-
ther of Woodrow Wilson, 28th president of the United States. James Wilson left
the house in 1807 at the age of 20. It contains some of the family’s original fur-
niture, including a tiny out-shot bed (sleeping nook) in the kitchen close to the
fire, larger curtained beds, and a portrait of the president’s grandfather over the
fireplace. Wilsons still occupy the modern farmhouse next door. Note: Opening
hours are subject to change; phone in advance.
Off Plumbridge Rd., Dergalt, Strabane, County Tyrone. & 028/8224-3292. Admission £1 ($1.85) adults, 50p
(90¢) children. Apr–Sept daily 2–6pm.

BICYCLING The Sperrin countryside is ideal for cycling. Bicycles can be
rented by the day or week from the An Creagán Visitors’ Centre (see “Seeing
the Sights,” above). Bike rentals run roughly £8 ($15) a day or £34 ($62) a week.
BIRD-WATCHING The Sperrins are home to golden plovers, peregrines,
ravens, grouse, and hen harriers. Sawel Mountain, the highest of the Sperrins,
is a great place to take out your binoculars and field guide.
FISHING The Foyle System of rivers, from Derry to Omagh and Limavady
to Dungiven, makes this a promising area for snagging brown and sea trout
(Apr to early July and Sept) and a variety of salmon (Mar–Sept). There’s also
some good coarse fishing available north and west of Omagh, on the Baron-
scourt Lakes and on the Strule and Fairy Water rivers. The necessary permits,
equipment, and good advice are available from C. A. Anderson & Co., 64
Market St., Omagh (& 028/8224-2311); Mourne Valley Tackle, 50 Main St.,
Newtownstewart (& 028/8166-1543); and Floyd’s Fish and Tackle, 28
Melmount Villas, Strabane (& 028/7188-3981). In fact, if you’re in the market
for an experienced ghillie (guide), ask at Floyd’s for Martin Floyd.
GOLF There are several 18-hole courses in County Tyrone within a modest
drive from the heart of the Sperrins: Strabane Golf Club, 33 Ballycolman Rd.,
Strabane (& 028/7138-2007), with greens fees of £15 ($28) weekdays, £17
($31) on weekends; Newtownstewart Golf Club, 38 Golf Course Rd., New-
townstewart (& 028/8166-1466), with greens fees of £14 ($26) weekdays, £19
($35) weekends; Omagh Golf Club, 83a Dublin Rd., Omagh (& 028/
8224-3160), with greens fees of £15 ($28) weekdays, £20 ($37) weekends; and
Killymoon Golf Club, 200 Killymoon Rd., Cookstown (& 028/8676-3762),
with greens fees of £15 ($28) Mondays, £20 ($37) other weekdays, and £25
($46) weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING To rent by the hour or take a multiday journey
through the mountains, contact the Edergole Riding Centre, 70 Moneymore
Rd., Cookstown (& 028/8676-1133).
WALKING Whether you’re on foot, wheels, or horseback, be sure to traverse
the Glenshane Pass between Mullaghmore (545m/1,818 ft.) and Carntogher
(455m/1,516 ft.), and the Sawel Mountain Drive along the east face of the
mountain. The vistas along these routes through the Sperrins will remind you of
why you’ve gone out of your way to spend time in Tyrone.
WHERE TO STAY
M O D E R AT E
Grange Lodge Norah and Ralph Brown are the gracious hosts of this
handsome Georgian guesthouse, which began life as a 17th-century settler’s hall.
Set high on a hill atop an 8-hectare (20-acre) estate, it’s a classy, tranquil retreat
and a good base for day trips throughout County Tyrone. Guest rooms are
attractive and comfortable, but everyone stays here for the food. Norah has won
all sorts of culinary awards, and her lovingly prepared, home-style meals have
achieved almost cult status in this otherwise gastronomically challenged part of
the North. At breakfast, don’t miss the house specialty: porridge infused with
Bushmills Whiskey and cream. And do book for dinner, too (£24/$44), for
you’ll eat better here than anywhere else in the Sperrins. Unfortunately for
nonguests, Norah only cooks for residents of Grange Lodge.
7 Grange Rd. (signposted 1.6km/1 mile south of M1, Junction 15), Moy, Dungannon, County Tyrone.
& 028/8778-4212. Fax 028/8778-4313. 5 units. £78 ($143) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V.
Closed Dec 20–Feb 1. Amenities: Nonsmoking rooms; sitting room. In room: TV.
INEXPENSIVE
The Grange Kids There’s loads of character in this charming little cottage
near the Ballygawley roundabout and the Folk Park. It dates from 1720, but has
been thoroughly modernized. Mrs. Lyttle is the hostess, and her rooms (two
doubles and one single) are done up nicely with sturdy farmhouse furniture and
homey bedspreads. Mrs. Lyttle welcomes small children.
15 Grange Rd., Ballygawley, County Tyrone. & 028/8556-8053. 3 units. £40 ($73) double. Children’s dis-
count available. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Closed Dec. Amenities: Laundry facilities; sit-
ting room. In room: TV.
THE FERMANAGH LAKELANDS 551
Greenmount Lodge Kids This large, first-rate guesthouse is set on a 60-

hectare (150-acre) farm. All the bedrooms were refurbished a few years back and
are nicely appointed; four are family units. Mrs. Frances Reid, the friendly host-
ess, is a superb cook; both breakfasts and evening meals are a home-style delight.
58 Greenmount Rd. (13km/8 miles southeast of Omagh on A5), Gortaclare, Omagh, County Tyrone.
& 028/8284-1325. Fax 028/8284-0019. 8 units. £40 ($73) double. Children’s discount available. Rates
include full breakfast. Dinner £16 ($23). MC, V. Amenities: Guest laundry room; sitting room. In room: TV.
Sperrin Clachan This restored clachan, or family cottage compound, sits
beside the Sperrin Heritage Centre in the beautiful Glenelly Valley. It makes an
ideal base for exploring the natural riches and cultural legacy of the Sperrin
region, as well as the city of Derry, only 40km (25 miles) to the north. Each cot-
tage has everything you’ll need to set up house, including central heating and an
open fireplace. There are four cottages in all; each sleeps two to five people. In
addition to these, Rural Cottage Holidays offers a wide array of other traditional
cottages in the region, including the award-winning, four-star Glenelly Cottages.
Glenelly Valley, Cranagh, County Tyrone. Contact RCH at & 028/9024-1100. Fax 028/9024-1198. www.
cottagesinireland.com. 4 cottages. £155–£240 ($284–$440) per week. Also available for 2- or 3-day stays. No
credit cards. Free parking. Amenities: Dishwasher; fridge; kitchen; microwave; oven/stove; washing machine.
In room: TV.
WHERE TO DINE
Mellon Country Inn INTERNATIONAL Located 1.6km (1 mile) north
of the Ulster-American Folk Park, this old-world country inn combines an Irish
theme with a connection to the Mellons of Pennsylvania. The menu includes
simple fare—burgers, soup, salads, and ploughman’s platters—as well as elegant
dishes such as lobster Newburg, beef Stroganoff, coquilles St.-Jacques, and sole
bonne femme. The house specialty is Tyrone black steak, a locally bred hormone-
free beef. Food is available all day on a hot and cold buffet, and you can also
order a late breakfast or afternoon tea.
134 Beltany Rd., Omagh, County Tyrone. & 028/8166-1224. Fax 028/8166-2245. Dinner main courses
£8–£14 ($15–$26). AE, MC, V. Daily 8am–9pm.
8 The Fermanagh Lakelands

Enniskillen, in the heart of the Fermanagh Lakelands, is 134km (83 miles) SW of Belfast, 98km (61 miles) SW
of Derry, 84km (52 miles) W of Armagh, 44km (27 miles) SW of Omagh, 174km (108 miles) NW of Dublin,
and 271km (168 miles) NE of Shannon
Tucked in the extreme southwest corner of Northern Ireland, County Fer-
managh is a premier resort area dominated by Lough Erne, a long lake dotted
with 154 islands and rimmed by countless alcoves and inlets. It has 81km (50
miles) of cruising waters—the least congested in Europe—ranging from a shal-
low channel in some places to an 8km (5-mile) width in others. The total sign-
posted driving circuit around the lake is 105km (65 miles).
The 1994 reopening of the Shannon-Erne Waterway, linking the lough to
the Shannon system, greatly enhanced the lure of Lough Erne as a cruising des-
tination. The 65km (40-mile) waterway between the cross-border village of
Leitrim and Lough Erne consists of a series of 16 lochs, three lakes, and the
Woodford River.
The hub of this lake-land paradise, wedged between the upper and lower
branches of Lough Erne, is Enniskillen, a delightful resort town that was the
medieval seat of the Maguire clan and a major crossroads between Ulster and
Connaught. Both Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett were once students here, at
the royal school.
At the northern tip of the lake is Belleek, sitting right on the border with the
Republic of Ireland, and known the world over for delicate bone chinaware. At
the southern end of the lake is County Cavan and another slice of border with
the Irish Republic. The surrounding countryside holds diverse attractions, from
stately homes at Florence Court and Castle Coole to the unique Marble Arch
Caves. In the waters lie myriad islands, Devenish and Boa being two of the most
interesting.
In medieval times, a chain of island monasteries stretched across the waters of
Lough Erne, establishing it as a haven for contemplatives. Making certain
allowances for less lofty minds, the Fermanagh Lakelands remain a great place
to get away from it all and to gaze, in a phrase from Hopkins, at the “pied
beauty” of it all.
VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Fermanagh Tourist Information
Centre, Wellington Road, Enniskillen, County Fermanagh (& 028/
6632-3110). It’s open weekdays year-round from 9am to 5:30pm (till 7pm
July–Aug). From Easter to September it’s also open on weekends, Saturday
10am to 6pm and Sunday 11am to 5pm. For an introduction to the Fermanagh
Lakelands on the Web, take a look at www.fermanaghlakelands.com.
EXPLORING THE LAKELANDS
TOURING THE LAKES & ISLANDS
Erne Tours Ltd., Enniskillen (& 028/6632-2882), operates cruises on Lower
Lough Erne. The MV Kestrel, a 56-seat cruiser, departs from the Round “O”
Jetty, Brook Park, Enniskillen. Trips, including a stop at Devenish Island, last
just under 2 hours. They operate daily in July and August at 10:30am, 2:15, and
4:15pm; in May and June on Sunday at 2:30pm; and in September on Tuesday,
Saturday, and Sunday at 2:30pm. Call for reservations and to confirm times.
The fare is £7 ($13) for adults, £6 ($11) for seniors, and £4 ($7.35) for children
under 14. There’s a £1 ($1.85) discount for morning sailings.
The Share Holiday Village, Smith’s Strand, Lisnaskea (& 028/6772-2122),
operates cruises on Upper Lough Erne. These 11⁄2-hour trips are conducted
onboard the Inishcruiser, a 57-passenger ship. Sailings are scheduled Easter
through September on Sunday at 2:30pm (July–Aug also Thurs–Sun at
2:30pm). The fare is £7 ($13) for adults, and £6 ($11) for seniors and children
under 18. Share Centre also offers other watersports activities and self-catering
chalets.
Independent boatmen offer ferry crossings to some of the many islands in
Lough Erne. White Island, Devinish Island, and Boa Island are particularly rich
in archaeological and early-Christian remains. Devenish Island boasts Lough
Erne’s most important island monastery, founded in the 6th century by St.
Molaise. The extensive remains include a 12th-century round tower that can be
climbed. From April to September, a ferry runs to Devenish Island from Trory
Point, 6.5km (4 miles) from Enniskillen on A32; journey time is about 12 min-
utes. On White Island, there remain seven stone figures from a vanished 10th-
century monastery inside a ruined 12th-century church. From April through
August, a ferry runs to White Island, departing from Castle Archdale Marina
(call Mr. Bradshaw at & 028/6862-1892 or mobile 0836/787123), 16km (10
miles) from Enniskillen on the Kesh road; journey time is about 18 minutes.
Departures April through June are on weekends only, every hour on the hour
from 11am to 6pm with the exception of 1pm. July and August the ferry runs
daily, with the same sailing times. The round-trip fare is £4 ($7.35) for adults
and £3 ($5.50) for children. In the cemetery at the west end of Boa Island, there
are two ancient Janus (looking both ways) idols, which are thought to date from
the 1st century. Boa Island is connected to the shore by bridges. Though it’s pos-
sible to visit all three islands in a single day, it’s a bit ambitious. Begin with
Devinish, then visit White, and, if time permits, finish up with Boa.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Belleek Pottery With the exception of Waterford crystal, Belleek china
is the name most readily identified throughout the world as a symbol of the
finest Irish craftsmanship. Established in 1857, this pottery enterprise produces
distinctive, delicate porcelain china, made into tableware, vases, ornaments, and
other pieces. The visitor center has a museum showing the product from its ear-
liest days to the present. Tours are conducted weekdays every 20 minutes, with
the last tour at 3:30pm. The coffee shop serves tea, coffee, snacks, and a hot
lunch.
Belleek, County Fermanagh. & 028/6865-8501. Fax 028/865-8625. www.belleek.ie. Free admission; tours
£4 ($7.35) adults, £2 ($3.65) seniors, £3 ($5.50) children. Apr–June and Sept Mon–Sat 9am–5:30pm;
July–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm; Oct–Dec Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Jan–Mar Mon–Fri 9am–5pm.
Castle Coole On the east bank of Lower Lough Erne, this quintessential
neoclassical mansion was designed by James Wyatt for the earl of Belmore and
completed in 1796. Its rooms include a lavish state bedroom hung with crim-
son silk, said to have been prepared for George IV. Other features include a
Chinese-style sitting room, magnificent woodwork, fireplaces, and furniture
dating from the 1830s. A nearly 600-hectare (1,500-acre) woodland estate sur-
rounds the house. A classical music series runs from May to October.
2.4km (11⁄2miles) southeast of Enniskillen on the main Belfast-Enniskillen rd. (A4), County Fermanagh.
& 028/6632-2690. House admission £3 ($5.50) adults, £1.50 ($2.75) children, £8 ($15) families; grounds
£2 ($3.65) per car. Easter–May and Sept Sat–Sun 1–6pm; June–Aug Fri–Wed 1–6pm (last tour 5:15pm).
Crom Estate This nearly 800-hectare (2,000-acre) nature reserve is a

splendid National Trust property, with forest, parks, wetlands, fen meadows, and
an award-winning lakeshore visitor center. There are numerous trails, with hides
for observing birds and wildlife, as well as a heronry and boat rental. The estate
is also a great place to fish for bream and roach. Permits and day tickets are avail-
able at the gate lodge. During the summer, there are frequently special programs
and guided nature walks on weekends.
Newtownbutler, County Fermanagh. & 028/6773-8118. Admission £3 ($5.50) per car or boat. Apr–Sept
Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun noon–6pm. 34km (21 miles) south of Enniskillen. Take A4 and A34 from Enniskillen
to Newtownbutler, then take the signposted right turn onto a minor road.
Devenish Island This is the most extensive of the ancient Christian sites
in Lough Erne. In the 6th century, St. Molaise founded a monastic community
here, to which the Augustinian Abbey of St. Mary was added in the 12th cen-
tury. In other words, this is hallowed ground, hallowed all the more by the leg-
end that the prophet Jeremiah is buried somewhere nearby—if you can figure
that one out. The jewel of Devenish is the perfectly intact 12th-century round
tower, which was erected with Vikings in mind. The island is a marvelous
mélange of remnants and ruins, providing a glimpse into the lake’s mystical past.
While you’re in the spirit, be sure to explore Boa and White islands, with their
extraordinary carved stone figures, and bring your camera (see the introduction
to this section for details on island hopping).
2.4km (11⁄2 miles) downstream from Enniskillen. & 028/6862-1588. Admission to round tower 75p ($1.35).
Ferry from Trory Point (6.5km/4 miles from Enniskillen on A32). Apr–Sept at 10am, 1pm, 3pm, and 5pm.
Round-trip fare £2.25 ($4.50) adults, £1.20 ($2.20) children.
Enniskillen Castle Dating from the 15th century, this magnificent

stone fortress sits overlooking Lough Erne on the western edge of town. It incor-
porates three museums: the medieval castle, with its unique twin-turreted
Watergate tower, once the seat of the Maguires, chieftains of Fermanagh; the
county museum, with exhibits on the area’s history, wildlife, and landscape; and
the museum of the famous Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers, with a collection of uni-
forms, weapons, and medals dating from the 17th century. Other exhibits
include life-size figurines and 3-D models of old-time castle life.
Castle Barracks, Enniskillen, County Fermanagh. & 028/6632-5000. Admission £2.50 ($4.60) adults, £2
($3.65) seniors and students, £1.50 ($2.75) children, £6.50 ($12) families. May–June and Sept Mon and Sat
2–5pm, Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; July–Aug Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Mon 2–5pm; Oct–Apr Mon 2–5pm, Tues–Fri
10am–5pm.
ExplorErne Just outside Belleek village, this exhibition offers an engaging

multimedia introduction to Lough Erne. It covers its geologic formation and the
lives, ancient and modern, lived along its reedy banks. Science, myth, and his-
tory blend to tell the story of this legendary, alluring lake.
Erne Gateway Centre, off main Enniskillen-Belleek rd., Corry, Belleek, County Fermanagh. & 028/
6865-8866. Admission £1 ($1.85) adults, 50p (90¢) seniors and children, £2.50 ($4.60) families. June–Sept
daily 11am–5pm.
Florence Court One of the most beautifully situated houses in North-

ern Ireland, this 18th-century Palladian mansion is set among dramatic hills,
13km (8 miles) southwest of Upper Lough Erne and Enniskillen. Originally the
seat of the earls of Enniskillen, its interior is rich in rococo plasterwork and
antique Irish furniture, while its exterior has a fine walled garden, an icehouse,
and a water-wheel-driven sawmill. The forest park offers a number of trails, one
leading to the top of Mount Cuilcagh (nearly 660m/2,200 ft.). There’s also a
tearoom.
Florence Court, off A32, County Fermanagh. & 028/6634-8249. Admission £4 ($7.35) adults, £2 ($3.65)
children, £10 ($18) families. June Mon–Fri 1–6pm, Sat–Sun noon–6pm; July–Aug daily noon–6pm; Sept–May
Sat–Sun noon–6pm.
Marble Arch Caves Kids Located west of Upper Lough Erne and 19km
(12 miles) from Enniskillen near the Florence Court estate, these caves are among
the finest in Europe for exploring underground rivers, winding passages, and hid-
den chambers. Electrically powered boat tours take visitors underground, and
knowledgeable guides explain the origins of the amazing stalactites and stalag-
mites. Tours last 75 minutes and leave at 15-minute intervals. The caves are occa-
sionally closed after heavy rains, so phone ahead before making the trip.
Marlbank, Florence Court, off A32, County Fermanagh. & 028/6634-8855. Admission £6 ($11) adults, £4
($7.35) seniors and students, £3 ($5.50) children under 18, £14 ($26) families. Reservations recommended. Late
Mar to June and Sept daily 10am–4:30pm (last tour at 4:30pm); July–Aug daily 10am–5pm (last tour at 5pm).
SHOPPING
Enniskillen has fine shops along its main street, which changes its name six times
(East Bridge, Townhall, High, Church, Darling, Ann) as it runs the length of the
town. Most shops are open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 5:30pm.
Tips Arts & Crafts

If you’d rather sketch a trout than snag it, you might want to contact the
Ardess Craft Centre, near Kesh (& 028/6863-1267). It offers a range of
courses, from drawing and painting to stone walling and weaving. Room
and board are available and optional. For a complete guide to crafts in
the Fermanagh region, go to www.fermanaghcraft.com.
The largest shopping complex in Enniskillen is the Erneside Shopping Cen-

ter, a modern bi-level mall on Shore Road, just off Wellington Road. It stays
open until 9pm on Thursday and Friday. The other principal towns for shop-
ping in the area are Irvinestown and Lisnaskea.
The town’s former Butter Market offers a nifty shopping experience. Dating
from 1835, it has been restored and transformed into The Buttermarket, The
Enniskillen Craft and Design Centre, Down Street (& 028/6632-3837). It
offers craft workshops and retail outlets, with occasional traditional music, craft
fairs, and street theater to enliven the atmosphere.
BICYCLING Several of the watersports and activity centers in the area, such
as Erne Tours and Lakeland Canoe Center (see “Watersports,” below), also rent
bicycles. Bicycles are also available from Corralea Activity Centre, Belcoo
(& 028/6638-6668); and Out & Out Activities, 501 Rosscor, Belleek (& 028/
6865-8105). Daily bike rental runs £7 to £10 ($13–$18). For cycle tours with
Kingfisher Cycle Trail, contact Pat Collum at the Tourist Information Centre,
Wellington Road, Enniskillen (& 028/6632-0121; www.kingfishercycletrail.com).
BIRD-WATCHING These lake lands are prime bird-watching territory. To
mention a few, you’ll find whooper swans, great-crested grebes, golden plovers,
curlews, corncrakes, kingfishers, herons, merlins, peregrines, kestrels, and spar-
row hawks. On Upper Lough Erne, the primary habitats are the reed swamps,
flooded drumlins, and fen; on the lower lake, the habitats of choice are the less-
visited islands and the hay meadows. Two important preserves are at the Crom
Estate (see “Seeing the Sights,” above) and the Castlecaldwell Forest and Islands.
BOATING Lough Erne is an explorer’s dream, and you can take that dream
all the way to the Atlantic if you want. The price range for fully equipped four-
to eight-berth cruisers is £700 to £1,135 ($1,283–$2,080) per week, including
VAT, depending on the season and the size of the boat. The many local cruiser-
hire companies include Belleek Charter Cruising, Belleek (& 028/
6865-8027; www25.brinkster.com/belleekcruising); Erne Marine, Bellanaleck
(& 028/6634-8267); and Erincurrach Cruising, Blaney (& 028/6864-1737;
www.boatingireland.com). Erincurrach has a cruiser that’s specially adapted for
travelers with disabilities.
On Lower Lough Erne, north of town, you can hire motorboats from Manor
House Marine, Killadeas (& 028/6862-8100). Charges average £50 ($92) for
a half-day, and £70 ($128) for a full day.
FISHING The Fermanagh Lakes are an angler’s heaven. If you can’t catch a
fish here, you must have been one in a past life. The best time for salmon is Feb-
ruary to mid-June; for trout, mid-March to June or mid-August until late Sep-
tember. As for coarse fishing, about a dozen species await your line in the area’s
lakes and rivers. If you’ve left time for advance planning and consultation, con-
tact the Fisheries Conservancy Board, 1 Mahon Rd., Portadown BT62 3EE
(& 028/3833-4666). For on-the-spot info, tackle, and bait, try Trevor
Kingston, 18 Church St., Enniskillen (& 028/6632-2114). For locally
arranged game fishing, call or drop in on Melvin Tackle, Main Street, Garrison,
County Fermanagh (& 028/6865-8194). All necessary permits and licenses are
available at the Fermanagh Tourist Information Centre (see “Visitor Informa-
tion,” above).
GOLF There are two 18-hole courses in the Lakelands, both in Enniskillen. The
Enniskillen Golf Club, in the Castle Coole estate (& 028/6632-5250), charges
greens fees of £20 ($37) weekdays, £22 ($40) weekends. The Castle Hume Golf
Club, Castle Hume (& 028/6632-7077; www.castlehumegolf.co.uk), is 5.6km
(31⁄2 miles) north of Enniskillen, with greens fees of £22 ($40) weekdays, £28 ($51)
weekends.
HORSEBACK RIDING The Ulster Lakeland Equestrian Centre, Necarne
Castle, Irvinestown (& 028/6862-1919), is an international center that offers
full equestrian holidays. Pony trekking and riding lessons are available from
Drumhoney Stables, Lisnarick (& 028/6862-1892).
WALKING The southwestern branch of the Ulster Way follows the western
shores of Lough Erne, between the lake and the border. The area is full of great
walks. One excellent 11km (7-mile, 3- to 7-hr.) hike is from a starting point near
Florence Court and the Marble Arch Caves (see “Seeing the Sights,” above) to
the summit of Mount Cuilagh (656m/2,188 ft.). A trail map is included in the
Northern Ireland Tourist Board’s Information Guide to Walking.
WATERSPORTS The Lakeland Canoe Center, Castle Island, Enniskillen
(& 028/6632-4250), is a watersports center based on an island west of down-
town. For a full day of canoeing and other sports, including archery, cycling,
dinghy sailing, and windsurfing, prices start roughly at £15 ($28) per day.
Camping and simple accommodations are also available at a modest cost. The
Share Holiday Village, Smith’s Strand, Lisnaskea (& 028/6772-2122;
www.sharevillage.org), offers sailing, canoeing, windsurfing, and banana skiing.
A single 21⁄2-hour session, including instruction and equipment, costs £5 ($9.15)
per person. Other watersports centers include the Boa Island Activity Centre,
Tudor Farm, Kesh (& 028/6863-1943).
WHERE TO STAY
VERY EXPENSIVE
Castle Leslie Finds This majestic place is where ex-Beatle Paul McCart-
ney wed Heather Mills in June 2002 (and prices have shot up accordingly since).
W. B. Yeats, Winston Churchill, and Mick Jagger also loved Castle Leslie, a
quintessential Victorian retreat just across the border in County Monaghan. A
stay here is one of Ireland’s unique surprises, an experience well worth whatever
detour it takes. The 400-hectare (1,000-acre) estate, with its three lakes (famous
for pike) and ancient hardwood forests, casts a relaxing spell, and the great
house—about 2,500 sq. m (27,000 sq. ft.) of history—is as comfortable as an
old slipper. This is a place of astounding treasures—the bridle worn by Welling-
ton’s horse Copenhagen at Waterloo, Wordsworth’s harp, the Bechstein grand on
which Wagner composed Tristan and Isolde, and Winston Churchill’s baby
clothes, to mention only a few. The greatest treasures are the stories you will take
away with you. Each unique, anecdote-rich guest room has its own special
feature—a claw-foot tub in an alcove near the bed, a spectacular view in a bay
window, or perhaps a beefy four-poster bed. (The hotel’s website has photos of
each room, so you can book your favorite in advance). The meals alone (see
“Where to Dine,” below) are worth the drive. Note: The castle has perhaps the
least child-friendly policy in Ireland; it doesn’t accept guests under 18 years old.
Glaslough, County Monaghan. & 047/88109. Fax 047/88256. www.castleleslie.com. 14 units (4 with
shower only). £250–£390 ($458–$715) double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. Packages
available. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); tennis courts; drawing room. In room: Hair dryer.
EXPENSIVE
Manor House Country Hotel Kids Dating from 1860, this splendid
three-story Victorian mansion has a varied history that includes its use by Amer-
ican forces as a base during World War II. The public areas are full of antiques
and ornate plasterwork, and the windows look out to Lough Erne. Rooms are
furnished in traditional style, with dark woods, frilly fabrics, and decorative
wallpaper; some have four-posters or half-canopy beds. The hotel sits on the
shores of Lower Lough Erne, 8.9km (51⁄2 miles) north of Enniskillen. For those
traveling with kids and sick of sacrificing character for convenience, this place
offers luxurious charm in spades. Kid-friendly facilities include a swimming
pool, minigolf, and a supervised playroom.
Killadeas, Irvinestown, Enniskillen, County Fermanagh. & 028/6862-1561. Fax 028/6862-1545.
www.manor-house-hotel.com. 81 units. £110 ($202) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant (Continental); 2 bars; indoor swimming pool; tennis court; gym; sauna/steam room; super-
vised children’s playroom; beauty treatments; marina; miniature golf. In room: TV, tea/coffeemaker, garment
press.
INEXPENSIVE
Belmore Court Motel Value If you’re just looking for a bed on which to
crash, this three-story motel offers a variety of accommodations, from single
rooms to family rooms, at rock-bottom prices. It’s the same motel principle as
in the United States: bland decor, no amenities, but rates that you really can’t
beat. Most rooms have kitchenettes, and about a third of the units have two bed-
rooms or a suite setup of bedroom and sitting room. Guest rooms are nonde-
script but inoffensive, done up with pastel colors, standard furnishings in light
woods, floral fabrics, down comforters, and writing desks. The motel is on the
east edge of town, within walking distance of all the major sights and shops.
Temp Rd., Enniskillen, County Fermanagh. & 028/6632-6633. Fax 028/6632-6362. www.motel.co.uk. 31
units. £45 ($82) double; £50 ($92) double with kitchenette; £68 ($125) family room (sleeps 5). Full breakfast
£5 ($9.15); continental breakfast £3 ($5.50). AE, MC, V. In room: TV, kitchenette or tea/coffeemaker.
WHERE TO DINE
Castle Leslie CONTINENTAL Dinner at Castle Leslie (see “Where
to Stay,” above) offers all the relaxed graciousness—and drama—of a prewar
dinner party. The dining rooms in the great house look out on one of the estate’s
lovely lakes and on ancient hardwood forests. The view alone is a perfect appe-
tizer. Sammy Leslie, trained at a fine Swiss culinary school, is largely responsible
for the wizardry in the kitchen. The cuisine is classic and French-influenced,
with a well-chosen wine list. The menu changes to embrace what is freshest and
most enticing to the chef; imagine starting with roast-goat’s-cheese salad with
beets and hazelnuts; proceeding to honey roast quail, filet of salmon, or grilled
filet of beef with Madeira sauce; and finishing with white chocolate crème
brûlée.
Glaslough, County Monaghan. Drive through the center of Glaslough to castle gates. & 047/88109. Reser-
vations required. Fixed-price dinner £52 ($95); a la carte menu available. MC, V. Daily 6–9:30pm.
Franco’s INTERNATIONAL Next to the Butter Market in three con-

verted and restored buildings that were once part of Enniskillen’s working water-
front, this pleasant, casual restaurant blends old-world ambience and the legacy
of the sea with contemporary recipes and fresh local ingredients. Choices might
include filet of beef en croûte, black sole and salmon with sorrel sauce, lobster
thermidor, Lough Melvin salmon on a bed of spinach in pastry and saffron
sauce, or duck breast in plum sauce. There’s a variety of specialty pastas and piz-
zas, too. Wednesday to Sunday, traditional music starts at 9pm.
Queen Elizabeth Rd., Enniskillen, County Fermanagh. & 028/6632-4424. Reservations not accepted.
Dinner main courses £8–£18 ($15–$33). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–11pm.
ENNISKILLEN AFTER DARK

Many or even most of the pubs and hotels in the area offer live entertainment,
especially in the summer and on weekends.
The area’s outstanding public house is Blakes of the Hollow , 6 Church
St., Enniskillen (& 028/6632-2143). Opened in 1887, the pub has been in the
Blake family ever since, retaining its original Victorian decor and ambience, with
a long marble-topped mahogany bar and pinewood alcoves.
Check out what’s on at the Ardhowen Theatre, Dublin Road, Enniskillen
(& 028/6632-3233). Also known as the Theatre by the Lakes because of its
enviable position overlooking Upper Lough Erne, this 300-seat theater presents
a varied program of concerts, drama, cabarets, jazz, gospel, blues, and other
modern music. Tickets run from £5 to £12 ($9.15–$22) for most performances;
curtain time is usually 8pm.
Appendix A:
Ireland in Depth
1 History 101
The Irish past, like that of every other Dateline
people, may be divided into two parts: ■ 8000 B.C. Earliest human immigra-
prehistory and history. This is a dis- tion to Ireland.
tinction we make, looking back at ■ 3500 B.C. Farmers and megalithic
them. History here means written his- builders reach Ireland.
tory: texts, not stories; words, not pic- ■ 2000 B.C. First metalworkers come to
Ireland.
tures. Prehistoric has a hunched-over, ■ 700 B.C. Celtic settlement of Ireland
savage ring to it, but that’s our prob- begins.
lem. People who didn’t write about ■ A.D. 432 Traditional date of Patrick’s
themselves were still people. return to Ireland.
So how do we know about the pre- ■ 500–800 Ireland’s “golden age.”
historic past? Except for some monu- ■ 795 First Viking invasion.
ments still staring us in the face, ■ 841 The Norse build a sea fort on the
prehistoric Ireland has to be dug up River Liffey.
like a grave rather than opened up like ■ 853 Danes take possession of the
a book. Indeed, Ireland has richly Norse settlement.
■ 988 Dublin officially recognized as an
rewarded the archaeologist’s shovel, Irish city.
and the farmer’s plow, for that matter. ■ 1014 Battle of Clontarf. Brian Boru
Many treasures have been unearthed defeats the Vikings.
by chance in the course of other ■ 1167–69 Norman invasion of Ireland.
chores. To be found underfoot or ■ 1171 Henry II visits Ireland and
under bog are the remains of houses, claims feudal lordship.
forts, tombs, tools, weapons, orna- ■ 1204 Dublin Castle becomes base of
ments—all the whatnots of earlier British power.
lives—offering wordless clues to the ■ 1297 First parliamentary sessions in
Dublin.
past. It’s said that ancient stones ■ 1541 Henry III proclaims himself
speak. Actually, they mumble at best. king of Ireland.
It’s up to archaeologists and prehisto- ■ 1534–52 Henry VIII begins suppres-
rians, using both science and intu- sion of Catholic Church in Ireland.
ition, to turn those mumblings into a ■ 1558–1603 Reign of Elizabeth I. Eliz-
confession. abeth conducts several Irish wars, ini-
The first Irish antiquaries, the earli- tiates the “plantation” of Munster,
est writings of the Irish about their divides Ireland into counties, and in
own past, characterize that past as a 1591 founds Trinity College, Dublin.
series of “invasions” beginning before
■ 1601 Mountjoy defeats combined
Spanish and Irish forces at Kinsale.
the deluge and continuing into the ■ 1603 Articles of Confederation
present. That, too, is mostly how introduced. “Plantation” of Ulster
modern historians tell the story of the commences.
Irish past, which is summarized
briefly here. continues
560 APPENDIX A . IRELAND IN DEPTH
IRISH PREHISTORY ■ 1607 The flight of the Irish earls,

THE FIRST SETTLERS At the marking the demise of the old Gaelic
order.
end of its last ice age, around the year ■ 1641 Irish Catholic revolt in Ulster
8000 B.C., Ireland warmed up to led by Sir Phelim O’Neill ends in
agreeable, even attractive, tempera- defeat.
tures. With some degree of confi- ■ 1649 Oliver Cromwell invades and
dence, we can place the date of the begins the reconquest of Ireland.
first human habitation of the island ■ 1690 The forces of James II, a
somewhere between the late 8000s Catholic, are defeated at the Battle of
and the early 6000s B.C. Regardless of the Boyne, assuring British control of
where in that span the date actually Ireland.
fell, Ireland seems to have been among ■ 1691 Patrick Sarsfield surrenders Lim-
erick. He and some 14,000 Irish
the last lands in Europe to have felt
troops, the “Wild Geese,” flee to the
the human footprint. Continent.
Ireland’s first colonizers, Mesolithic ■ 1704 Enactment of first Penal Laws.
Homo sapiens, walked, waded, or Apartheid comes to Ireland.
floated—depending on the status of ■ 1778 The Penal Laws are progressively
the early land bridges—across the nar- repealed.
row strait from Britain in search of ■ 1782 The Irish Parliament is granted
flint and, of course, food. They found independence.
both and stayed on, more or less ■ 1791 Wolfe Tone founds the Society
of the United Irishmen.
uneventfully (from our perspective, at ■ 1796–97 Wolfe Tone launches an
least), for a good 4,000 to 5,000 years. invasion from France, fails, is taken
Their contribution to the future of captive, and commits suicide.
Ireland may seem minimal, but most ■ 1798 “The Year of the French.” A
beginnings are. And they did, after all, French invasion force is defeated at
begin the gene pool. Killala Bay. General Humbert surren-
ders to Cornwallis.
THE NEOLITHIC AGE The next ■ 1800 The Irish Parliament is induced
momentous prehistoric event was the to dissolve itself.
arrival of Neolithic farmers and ■ 1803 In Dublin, Robert Emmet leads
herders, sometime around 3500 B.C. a rising of fewer than 100 men and is
The Neolithic “revolution” was the hanged.
first of many to come to Ireland a bit ■ 1829 Daniel O’Connell secures pas-
late, at least 5,000 years after its incep- sage of the Catholic Emancipation Act.
■ 1841 Daniel O’Connell is named lord
tion in the ancient Near East. The
mayor of Dublin.
domestication of the human species— ■ 1845–48 The Great Famine. Two mil-
settled life, agriculture, animal hus- lion Irish die or emigrate.
bandry—brought with it a radically ■ 1848 The revolt of the Young Ire-
increased population, enhanced skills, landers ends in failure.
stability, and all the implications of ■ 1858 The Irish Republican Brother-
leisure. Unlike Ireland’s Mesolithic hood, a secret society known as the
hunters, who barely left a trace, this Fenians, is founded in New York.
second wave of colonizers began at ■ 1867 A Fenian uprising is easily
once to transform the island. They crushed.
■ 1879 Michael Davitt founds the
came with stone axes that could fell a
National Land League to support the
good-size elm in less than an hour. Ire- claims of tenant farmers.
land’s hardwood forests began to ■ 1879–82 The “land war” forces the
recede to make room for tilled fields enactment of reform. The tenant sys-
and pastureland. Villages sprang up, tem unravels; land returns to those
like those discovered and reconstructed who work it.
H I S TO RY 1 0 1 561
at Lough Gur, County Limerick. ■ 1884 Gaelic Athletic Association is

Larger, more permanent homes, formed to preserve native sports.
planked with split oak, appeared ■ 1886 and 1894 Bills for Home Rule
are defeated in Parliament.
roughly at this time. ■ 1893 The Gaelic League is founded to
Far more startling, however, is the revive the Irish language.
appearance of massive megalithic ■ 1904 Establishment of the Abbey
monuments, including court cairns, Theatre.
dolmens, passage tombs, and wedge ■ 1905–08 Founding of Sinn Fein, “we
tombs, only a small percentage of ourselves,” with close links to the Irish
which have been excavated. The more Republican Brotherhood.
than 1,000 megalithic monuments ■ 1912 Third Home Rule bill passes in
that have been unearthed mumble the House of Commons and is
symphonically about beliefs, cults, defeated by the House of Lords.
■ 1913 Founding of the Irish Citizens
and aspirations as profound as any we
Army.
might imagine. A visit to Newgrange ■ 1916 Patrick Pearse and James Con-
and Knowth in the Boyne Valley and nolly lead an armed uprising on Easter
to Carrowmore in County Sligo will Monday to proclaim the Irish Repub-
both dazzle and deepen anyone’s lic. Defeat is followed by the execution
understanding of the human past. It of 15 leaders of the revolt.
certainly did so for the later Celtic ■ 1918 Sinn Fein wins a landslide elec-
inhabitants of the island, who won- tion victory against the Irish Parlia-
dered and told stories about the mentary Party.
■ 1919 Sinn Fein, led by Eamon de
tremendous stones and mounds raised
Valera, constitutes itself as the first
by what, they assumed, must have Irish áil and declares independence.
been giants—their ancestors, whom ■ 1919–21 The Irish War of Indepen-
they imagined to inhabit them still. dence. Michael Collins commands the
They called them the people of the sí, Irish forces.
who eventually became the Tuatha Dí ■ 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty. Ireland is
Danann, then the faeries. The once- partitioned. Twenty-six counties form
great and now-little people lived a the Free State. William Cosgrave
quite magical life, mostly under- becomes the first president. His party,
ground, in the thousands of raths, or Cumann na nGaedheal, later becomes
Fine Gael.
earthwork structures, coursing the ■ 1922 The Free State adopts its first
island like giant mole works. constitution.
In the ensuing millennia of the pre- ■ 1922–23 The Irish civil war, between
historic period, the first farmers were the government of the Free State and
followed by others, skilled in prospect- those who opposed the treaty. Michael
ing and metallurgy. Bronze imple- Collins is assassinated.
ments and ornaments, and some ■ 1932 Eamon de Valera leads Fianna
jewelry wrought in gold, were now Fáil to victory and becomes head of
added to the pots and woven fabrics government.
■ 1932–38 Economic war with Britain
already being produced on the island.
brings great hardship.
A still later wave of farmers and crafts- ■ 1937 Ireland’s 26 counties adopt a
men moved their settlements from the new constitution, abandoning mem-
edges of lakes to the center, where they bership in British Commonwealth.
constructed artificial islands sur- ■ 1938 Douglas Hyde inaugurated as
rounded by palisades. An example of Eire’s first president.
these curious creations, called cran- ■ 1939 Dublin is bombed by Germany
nógs, has been reconstructed at the at start of World War II, but Ireland
Craggaunowen Project, County Clare. remains neutral.
A visit there—as well as to Lough Gur continues
in County Limerick and to the Irish ■ 1948 The Republic of Ireland Act. Ire-
National Heritage Park at Ferrycarrig, land severs its last constitutional links
County Wexford—would reward any- with Britain.
■ 1955 Ireland is admitted into the
one interested in learning more about
United Nations.
life in prehistoric Ireland. Although ■ 1959 Eamon de Valera becomes presi-
the Bronze Age Irish (like the Stone dent of Ireland.
Age Irish who preceded them) left no ■ 1963 U.S. Pres. John F. Kennedy visits
written records, they did bequeath to Dublin.
their dead, and so to us, works of ■ 1969 Violence breaks out in Northern
exquisite beauty. Examples may be Ireland. British troops are called in.
seen in the National Museum in ■ 1972 In Derry a peaceful rally turns
Dublin. into “Bloody Sunday.” The Northern
Irish Parliament is dissolved, and
THE CELTS The first “invasion” of the North is ruled directly from
Ireland that can be traced with histor- Britain.
ical confidence is that of the Celts, ■ 1973 Ireland joins the European
cousins of the Celtae who sacked Community.
■ 1986 Ireland signs the Anglo-Irish
Rome and the Keltoi who did the same
Agreement.
to Delphi. Indeed, Irish history before ■ 1990 Ireland elects Mary Robinson,
the modern period may be sketched in its first woman president. Sir Peter
terms of four invasions: those of the Brooke, British secretary of state for
Celts, the Vikings, the Normans, and Northern Ireland, declares that Britain
the English. Each left an indelible no longer has any selfish economic or
imprint on the landscape and the psy- strategic interest in Northern Ireland.
che of the island. Ireland and the Irish ■ 1992 Ireland approves the European
people today are the heirs, culturally Union.
and genetically, of their prehistoric ■ 1993 The Joint Declaration on North-
ern Ireland, written by John Hume
and historic invaders.
and Gerry Adams, establishes the prin-
Of all of Ireland’s uninvited guests, ciples and framework for a peaceful,
the Celts made the greatest impact. democratic resolution of issues regard-
They came in waves, the first perhaps ing the political status of the North.
as early as the 6th century B.C. and ■ 1994 The IRA announces a cease-fire,
continuing until the end of the millen- and the Protestant paramilitaries fol-
nium. In time, they controlled the low suit. Commencement of peace
island and absorbed into their culture talks.
everyone they found there. Their ways ■ 1995 The British and Irish govern-
ments issue “A New Framework for
and their genes were, in a word, domi-
Agreement,” and U.S. Pres. Bill Clin-
nant. They brought iron weapons, war ton makes a historic visit to Ireland,
chariots, codes of combat and honor, speaking to large crowds in Belfast and
cults and contests, poetic and artistic Derry. Received with great enthusiasm
genius, music, and mania, all of which in the Republic, he is made a “free-
took root and flourished in Irish soil as man” of the City of Dublin.
if they were native plants. The Celts, ■ 1996 The IRA resumes its campaign
however, were dismally disorganized in of violence. New disturbances in the
comparison with the kingdoms and North lead to the worst rioting in 15
empires of Europe. They divided the years. The cease-fire is over, and the
peace process is in tatters.
island among as many as 150 tribes, or ■ 1997 The IRA declares a new cease-
tuatha, grouped under alliances with fire. On October 7, Sinn Fein enters
allegiance to one of five provincial inclusive all-party peace talks designed
kings. The provinces of Munster, Lein- to bring about a comprehensive settle-
ster, Ulster, and Connaught date from ment in the North.
H I S TO RY 1 0 1 563
this period. They fought among them- ■ 1998 The all-party peace talks con-
selves, fiercely, over cattle (their “cur- clude with the Belfast Agreement,
rency” and standard of wealth), land, affirmed by all participating parties
and strongly supported in referendums
and women. None among them ever
held on the same day in the Republic
achieved high kingship of the island, and in the North. John Hume and
though not for lack of trying. One David Trimble are awarded the Nobel
of the most impressive monuments Peace Prize for their key roles in bring-
from the time of the warring Celtic ing about this agreement.
chiefs is the stone fortress of Dún Aen- ■ 1999 The implementation of the Belfast
gus on the Aran Islands. Agreement is blocked by the Unionist
demand—“in the spirit” but contrary to
IRISH HISTORY the letter of the Good Friday Agree-
THE COMING OF CHRISTIAN- ment—that IRA decommissioning pre-
ITY The Celtic powers-that-be nei- cede the appointment of a New
ther warmly welcomed nor violently Northern Ireland executive. The peace
resisted the Christians who, beginning process stalls until late in November,
in the 5th century A.D., came ashore when the new power-sharing Northern
Ireland Executive is established.
and walked the island with a new mes- ■ 2000 Peter Mandelson, the Northern
sage. Although threatened to the core, Ireland Secretary, suspends the North-
the Celtic kings and bards settled for a ern Ireland Executive and Assembly
bloodless rivalry and made no Chris- and British rule is restored. The IRA
tians martyrs. issues a statement saying it will
Not the first, but eventually the decommission its arms. In May, power
most famous, of these Christian new- is restored to the institutions estab-
comers was Patrick, a young Roman lished by the Belfast Agreement.
citizen torn from his British homeland ■ 2001 David Trimble threatens to
resign as Ulster Unionist party leader
in a Celtic raid and brought to Ireland
if the IRA does not live up to its
as a slave. In time, he escaped slavery promise to decommission its weapons.
but not Ireland, to which he felt The IRA doesn’t bite; Trimble resigns
called. Ordained a priest and conse- in June. Following a surge of feeling in
crated a bishop, Patrick made his own the wake of the September 11 terrorist
raid on Ireland and took its people by attacks on the USA, IRA decommis-
storm. He abhorred slavery, which he sioning begins.
had known firsthand, and he preached ■ 2002 In March, Irish voters defeated a
it off the island. Within 30 years, the referendum that would have further
Christian church, like a young forest, restricted the availability of abortion
in Ireland. The peace process contin-
was well rooted and spreading in every
ues to be fraught by sectarian violence
direction. By the time of his death, on both sides.
around A.D. 461, the Roman Empire ■ 2003 The political atmosphere in the
was in near collapse while Ireland was North remains stagnant, as the leader-
on the brink of its golden age. ship of the political parties fail to rise
The truth of Ireland’s conversion to to the challenge of the Belfast Agree-
Christianity was that it was mutual. ment. Ireland’s hosting of Special
The church of Patrick was, like the Olympics hailed as “best in history.”
man who brought it, Roman, some- ■ 2004 Irish government passes non-
smoking ban in all public indoor
thing Ireland never was and never
spaces. Irish Taoiseach Bertie Ahern
would be. Roman Catholicism didn’t successfully ends 12-month tenure as
“take” in Ireland. Instead, it “went president of EU Commission. In June
native” and became uniquely Celtic. U.S. President George W. Bush arrives
Patrick’s eminent successors, Colum- for EU-US Summit and is greeted
cille, Bridgit, and Columbanus, were with anti-Iraq War protests.
Irish in a way that Patrick could never be—and so was their church. Although
orthodox on most points of doctrine, the Irish church was Celtic in structure,
tribal and unruly by Roman standards. To Ireland, an island without towns or
cities, the Roman system of dioceses and archdioceses was beside the point.
Instead, the Irish built monasteries with extended monastic families, each more
or less autonomous and regional. The pope, like an Irish high king, was essen-
tially a peer. He had to defend his title with every challenge, like a prizefighter.
Besides, the pope reigned in “a place out of mind,” a place that was in a sham-
bles at the time.
IRELAND OF THE SAINTED MISSIONARIES Meanwhile, Ireland
flourished for several centuries as a land of saints and scholars. Its monasteries
were centers of learning and culture—some of the few left in post-Roman
Europe—where literacy itself was effectively kept alive through the voluminous
and imaginative work of scholars and scribes. Moreover, some of these monas-
teries—Bridgit’s own, for instance—were models of sexual equality, populated
by both men and women and sometimes presided over by a woman, a high
abbess, who was likely to have a handful of bishops under her jurisdiction.
Not only were monks and scholars drawn to Ireland in great numbers, but they
were sent out in great numbers as well, to Britain and the Continent, bearing
with them all the otherwise-forgotten knowledge of Europe. As historian Thomas
Cahill wrote in his How the Irish Saved Civilization, “Wherever they went the
Irish brought with them their books, many unseen in Europe for centuries and
tied to their waists as signs of triumph, just as Irish heroes had once tied to their
waists their enemies’ heads.” The influence of these monks cannot be underesti-
mated. They went everywhere; it’s likely that some of them even reached North
America. And they worked with a fervor, so much so that the Irish penned more
than half the biblical commentaries written between 650 and 850.
The prime legacy of these monks lies in knowledge perpetuated, but like their
megalithic ancestors, they too left some enduring monuments to their profound
spirituality. With the help of a little imagination, visits to the early monastic
sites—Glendalough in County Wicklow, Clonmacnois in County Offaly, and
Skellig Michael off the Kerry coast—together with a stop at Trinity College
Dublin to see the Book of Kells, will bring to life Ireland’s lost age of splendor.
THE VIKING INVASIONS The monastic city-states of early medieval Ire-
land died no natural death. After several centuries of dazzling peace, the sea
brought new invaders, this time the Vikings. By assaulting Ireland’s monaster-
ies, these seagoing berserkers from Scandinavia went straight for the jugular of
Irish civilization. Regardless of their Celtic blood, the monks were not warriors,
and the round towers to which they retreated were neither high enough nor
strong enough to protect them and their treasures from the Scandinavian
pirates. The Vikings knew a soft touch when they saw one and just kept com-
ing, from around 800 into the 10th century. The Vikings knew how to pillage
and plunder, but, thankfully, they didn’t know how to read. Therefore, they did-
n’t much bother with the books they came across, allowing the monks some
means besides their memories of preserving their knowledge and of passing their
history down to us.
For better or worse, the Vikings did more than hit and run. They settled as
well, securing every major harbor on Ireland’s east coast with a fortified town.
These were the first towns in Ireland: Dublin, Cork, Waterford, and the river city
of Limerick. Eventually, the Irish, though disinclined to unite, did so anyway.
H I S TO RY 1 0 1 565
This led to decisive Viking defeats by the armies of Brian Boru in 999 and 1014.
When the Vikings left, they left their towns behind, forever altering the Irish way
of life. The legacy of the Vikings in Ireland is complex, and a visit to Dublin’s
Wood Quay and the city walls of Waterford may put those interested on the
scent.
With the Vikings gone, Ireland enjoyed something of a renaissance in the
11th and 12th centuries. Meanwhile, its towns grew, its regional kings made
their bids for high kingship, and its church came under concerted pressure to
conform with the Vatican. All of these, in fact, played their part in ripening Ire-
land for its next invasion. Prosperous and factionalized, Ireland made attractive
prey, and it was, tragically, an Irish king who opened the door to the predator.
Diarmait Mac Murchada, king of Leinster, whose ambition was to be king of all
of Ireland, decided he needed outside help and called on a Welsh Norman,
Richard de Clare, better known as Strongbow. Strongbow and his army, in turn,
acted on behalf of Henry II of England, who had taken the pious and political
precaution of securing a papal blessing for the invasion of Catholic Ireland. The
accommodating pope was Adrian IV, who must have envisioned not only a more
papal Ireland but also a more British one. After all, he was the first and only
Briton ever to ascend to the papacy.
THE NORMAN INVASION In successive expeditions from 1167 to 1169,
the Normans crossed the Irish Sea with crushing force. When you see the mas-
sive Norman fortifications at Trim, you’ll realize the clout the invaders brought
with them. In 1171 Henry II of England made a royal visit to what was now one
of his domains. Across the next century, the Normans settled in, consolidated
their power, developed Irish towns and cities, and grew terribly fond of the
island. They became as Irish as the Irish themselves.
In 1314 Scotland’s Robert the Bruce defeated the English at Bannockburn
and set out to fulfill his dream of a united Celtic kingdom. He installed his
brother Edward on the Irish throne, but the constant state of war took a heavy
toll. Within 2 years, famine and economic disorder had eroded any public sup-
port Edward might have enjoyed. By the time he was defeated and killed at
Dundalk in 1317, few were prepared to mourn him. Over the next 2 centuries,
attempts to rid Ireland of its Norman overlords were laudable but fell short.
Independent Gaelic lords in the north and west continued to maintain their ter-
ritories. By the close of the 15th century, British control of the island was effec-
tively limited to the Pale, a walled and fortified cordon around what might have
been called “greater Dublin.” The Normans themselves became more and more
Irish and less and less British in their loyalties. Ireland was becoming British in
name only.
ENGLISH POWER & THE FLIGHT OF THE EARLS In the 16th cen-
tury, under the Tudors, the brutal reconquest of Ireland was set in motion. In
midcentury, Henry VIII proclaimed himself king of Ireland, something his
predecessors had never done. However, it wasn’t until late in the century that the
claim was backed up by force. Elizabeth I, Henry’s daughter, declared that all
Gaelic lords in Ireland must surrender their lands to her, with the altruistic pro-
nouncement that she would immediately regrant them—a proposition met with
no great joy, to say the least. The Irish, under Ulster’s Hugh O’Neill and Red
Hugh O’Donnell, struck out, defeating the Earl of Essex, whom Elizabeth had
personally sent to subdue them. In 1600 a massive force commanded by Lord
Mountjoy landed and set about subduing the country. By 1603, O’Neill was left
with few allies and no option but to surrender, which he did on March 23, the
day before Elizabeth died. Had he waited, who knows how history would have
differed? As it was, O’Neill had his lands returned, but constant harassment by
the English prompted him, along with many of Ireland’s other Gaelic lords, to
sail for the continent on September 14, 1607, abandoning their lands and their
aspirations.
THE COMING OF CROMWELL By the 1640s, Ireland was effectively an
English plantation. Family estates had been seized and foreign (Scottish) labor
brought in to work them. The persecution of Catholics, begun with Henry
VIII’s split from Rome, barred them from practicing their faith. Resentment led
to uprisings in Ulster and Leinster in 1641, and by early 1642 most of Ireland
was again under Irish control. Any hope of extending the victories was destroyed
by internal disunion and by the eventual decision to support the Royalist side in
the English civil war. In 1648 English King Charles I was beheaded, and the fol-
lowing year the Royalist forces in Ireland were defeated at Rathmines. The stage
was set for disaster.
In 1649, Oliver Cromwell arrived in Dublin as commander in chief and lord
lieutenant of Ireland, and set about destroying all opposition. One of the most
brutal and effective butchers any empire has ever enlisted, Cromwell simply
devastated Ireland, which still bears the scars of his savagery. To this day, some
Irish spit when they say his name. Cromwell left no doubt about who was in
charge. His campaign lasted only 7 months, but his brutal, bloodthirsty meth-
ods broke the back of all resistance. In his siege of the town of Drogheda alone,
3,552 Irish were killed, while Cromwell lost only 64 men. After subduing all but
Galway and Waterford, Cromwell left Ireland and its administration in the care
of his lieutenants and returned to England. His stamp lingered for centuries, and
the memory of it still burns.
The Irish were offered a choice after the massacres: Anyone suspected of
resisting the English forces could leave the country, give up his lands, and reset-
tle in Connaught or County Clare; or die. With this expropriation, the English
gained control over most of the country’s arable land, and cemented their power.
After the restoration of the British monarchy in 1660, and especially after the
succession to the throne of the Catholic King James II in 1685, Irish Catholics
began to sense hope in the air. By 1688, Protestant power in the country was
seriously diminished, but William of Orange’s seizure of the English throne in
November of that year reversed the trend. James fled to France to regroup, then
sailed to Ireland to launch his counterattack. He struck first at Londonderry, to
which he laid siege for 15 weeks before being defeated by William’s forces at the
Battle of the Boyne. The battle effectively ended James’s cause and the last Irish
hope of freedom in Ireland. Soon after, the Treaty of Limerick sealed the defeat,
and many Irish patriots sailed for America to fight the British Empire in a war
that could be won.
Fun Fact So It Was All a Terrible Mix-up?
Sir Arthur Ashton led the Drogheda resistance against Cromwell in

1649. When Cromwell’s men captured him, they beat him to death
with his own leg, mistakenly believing it contained gold.
H I S TO RY 1 0 1 567
Fun Fact Civil Disobedience, Irish-Style
It’s during the oppressive Penal Law period of the 18th century that
the so-called genre of “aisling” poems took on political significance.
At a time when all nationalistic expression was quashed, Irish story-
tellers began creating poems that featured a common element: A
character has a vision of a beautiful, ghostly woman seen wandering
through the night in distress. This woman represented the land of Ire-
land itself, subjugated under the English yoke. The Irish Gaelic word
aisling (pronounced ash-ling) means “beautiful dream” or “vision,”
and is often used as a girl’s name in Ireland today.
THE PENAL LAWS After James’s defeat, the boot of English power sat heav-
ier than ever on Ireland’s neck. Protestant lords were granted total political
power and control of the land, and laws were enacted to effectively impoverish
the Catholic population. Catholics could not purchase land; Catholic landhold-
ings were split up unless the family who held them converted; Catholic schools
and priests were banned; and Catholics were barred from professions or com-
missions in the army and were forced to pay a tax to the Anglican church. The
laws had an unintended consequence, though. As happens whenever unjust laws
are inflicted on a people, they institutionalized civil disobedience and inspired
creative sedition.
Meanwhile, the new British lords and landlords of Ireland settled in, sunk
their own roots, planted crops, made laws, and sowed their own seed. Inevitably,
over time, the “Angles” became the Anglo-Irish. Hyphenated or not, they were
Irish, and their loyalties were increasingly unpredictable. Colonialism only
works effectively for one generation, after all—the very next generation is native
to the new country, not the old. As this process played out in Ireland, history
settled into one of its periodic states of inactivity, and little of note transpired.
Prosperity remained on the Protestant side of the fence, and deprivation on the
Catholic side. The Penal Laws remained in effect for a century. The first were
relaxed in 1770, and the bulk of them repealed with England’s 1783 acknowl-
edgment of the Irish Parliament’s right, along with the king, to determine the
laws by which Ireland should be governed.
WOLFE TONE, THE UNITED IRISHMEN & THE 1798 REBELLION
England’s difficulty is Ireland’s opportunity, or so the saying goes, so when war
broke out between the British and French in the 1790s, the United Irishmen—
a nonviolent society formed to lobby for admission of Catholic and landless
Irishmen to the Irish Parliament—went underground to try to persuade the
French to intervene on Ireland’s behalf against the British. Their emissary in this
venture was a Dublin lawyer named Wolfe Tone. In 1796 Tone sailed with a
French invasion force bound for Ireland but was turned back by storms.
Come 1798, Ireland was embroiled in insurrection. Wexford and Ulster
teetered, with the United Irishmen proving they hadn’t united enough of their
countrymen to mount a credible, sustainable campaign. The nadir of the rebel-
lion came when Wolfe Tone, having raised another French invasion force, sailed
into Lough Swilley in Donegal and was promptly captured by the British. At his
trial, wearing a French uniform, Tone requested that he be shot. When the
request was refused, he slit his own throat. The rebellion was over. In the space
of 3 weeks, more than 30,000 Irish had been killed. In the aftermath of “The
Year of the French,” as it came to be known, the British induced the Irish Par-
liament to dissolve itself, and Ireland reverted to strict British rule.
DANIEL O’CONNELL In 1828 a Catholic lawyer named Daniel O’Con-
nell, who had earlier formed the Catholic Association to represent the interests
of tenant farmers, was elected to the British Parliament to represent Ireland.
Public opinion was so solidly behind him that he was able to persuade the Duke
of Wellington, Britain’s prime minister, that the only way to avoid an Irish civil
war was to force the Catholic Emancipation Act through Parliament. Once this
was secured, O’Connell accepted the position as Ireland’s MP (Member of Par-
liament). For 12 years he served in the post, winning concessions and fighting
against unpopular leftovers of the Penal Laws. In 1841 he left Parliament and
was elected lord mayor of Dublin, and began his push for repeal of the Irish-
British union imposed after the 1798 rebellion. Toward this end, he organized
enormous meetings that often reached the hundreds of thousands, but suc-
ceeded in provoking an unresponsive conservative government to such an extent
that it eventually arrested O’Connell on charges of seditious conspiracy. The
charges were dropped, but the incident—coupled with dissension among the
Irish, criticism by a group known as the Young Irelanders, and distress from the
incipient famine—led to the breaking of his power base. “The Liberator,” as he
had been known, faded, his health failed, and he eventually died on a trip to
Rome. The Young Irelanders, led by “Meagher of the Sword,” went on to stage
a pathetic revolt in 1848. The English authorities easily put it down.
THE GREAT HUNGER As the efforts of Ireland’s hoped-for liberators
failed, the Irish were faced with something they could barely imagine: a worse
state of affairs.
In the years 1845 through 1848, famine struck. The majority of Ireland
owned by the Irish was harsh, difficult land, unsuitable for most farming. For
this reason the Irish had come to depend on the potato, one of the hardiest of
crops, as the staple of their diet. When blight struck, they were left with noth-
ing to keep body and soul together.
It has often been said that colonialism can succeed only when it’s paired with
genocide, and in the “Great Hunger,” as it’s called, that collusion nearly came to
pass. Whether the famine was an act of God, the British, or bad farming prac-
tices on the part of the Irish peasantry remains unresolved. The fact stands that
it claimed a million Irish lives and dispatched another million to the sea on
death ships, most pointed toward the United States. Those who remained faced
only continued hardship, and in the years to follow emigration reached flood
level. Within a century, the population of Ireland was less than half of what it
had been in 1841.
THE STRUGGLE FOR HOME RULE Fewer Irish did not mean more
manageable Irish, however. On multiple fronts, violent and nonviolent, the Irish
people kept up the pressure on Britain. They won some partial concessions, but
gratitude was minimal. The return of selected stolen goods appears generous
only to thieves. What the Irish wanted back was Ireland, intact: land, religion,
language, and law. In the 1870s and 1880s, Ireland’s Member of Parliament,
Charles Stewart Parnell, was able to unite various factions of Irish nationalists,
including the Fenian Brotherhood in America and the Land League, to fight for
home rule. In a tumultuous decade of legislation, he came close, but revelations
H I S TO RY 1 0 1 569
about his long affair with Kitty O’Shea, wife of a former follower, brought about
his downfall, and an end to the legislative quest for home rule.
THE EASTER REBELLION & THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE Com-
ing close counts for nothing in revolution, and near-misses on the negotiation
front opened the way to violence. The 1912 defeat of the third Home Rule Bill
in the House of Lords, after it had passed in the House of Commons, was fol-
lowed in 1913 by the founding of the Irish Citizens Army and the Irish Volun-
teers. Revolution was imminent. The motive had been there for centuries, the
ability was in development, and the opportunity was around the corner. In 1916
the Irish celebrated Easter, the feast of the Resurrection, in unique fashion.
On Easter Monday 1916, the Irish tricolor flag was raised over the General
Post Office in the heart of Dublin. Inside were 1,500 fighters, led by the Gaelic
League’s Patrick Pearse and Socialist leader James Connolly. Pearse read the
newly written Proclamation of the Irish Republic, and his men fought off the
British for 6 days before being captured. Pearse, Connolly, and 12 other leaders
were imprisoned, secretly tried, and speedily executed.
In looking back over Irish history for those turning points that cumulatively
led to the violence of 1916, the War of Independence, and the Irish civil war,
William Butler Yeats wrote of four bells that tolled for Ireland. One sounded at
each of its irreversibly decisive moments: the Flight of the Earls, the Battle of the
Boyne, the spread of French revolutionary ideas under the United Irishmen, and
the fall of Parnell. However it is that we trace the path to violence, the 1916 ris-
ing, compounded by the savage stupidity of the British response, all but guar-
anteed that Ireland’s future would be decided by the gun. Like the religious faith
the people had strained for centuries to preserve, the Irish faith in revolution was
seeded and nourished by the blood of martyrs—martyrs the British had been
fools enough to provide.
The last straw for the British was Sinn Fein’s landslide victory in the general
election of 1918 and its subsequent proclamation of the first Dáil, or inde-
pendent parliament. The declaration of independence issued 2 years earlier from
the General Post Office now seemed a good deal more real. When the British
attempted to smash the new parliament, the result was the War of Indepen-
dence, in which the Irish forces, led by Michael Collins, eventually forced the
British to the negotiating table.
The Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921 gave independence to only 26 of 32 Irish
counties. The fate of the remaining six counties in Ulster was yet to be decided.
In the meantime, they would remain within the United Kingdom. Some of the
Irish, weary of war, accepted compromise as close enough to victory and
Fun Fact The Big Hand Says Moo
When the Oireachtas (legislative branch of Irish government) was

deciding whether to adopt daylight saving time in 1923, one of the
arguments against was stated as such: “No self-respecting cow can
expect to be milked at 2:30am. According to this new Summer Time, in
the West of Ireland cattle that in the ordinary course would be milked
at 4:30am would now be milked at 2:30am. The milk supply of this
country is a very important matter.”
Fun Fact Did You Know?
• The Irish per capita consumption of poetry surpasses that of any

other English-speaking country. Not surprisingly, they also produce
their fair share.
• For certain scenic areas in Ireland, mobile phone “masts,” as they’re
known, have been designed in the shape of trees to minimize the
visual blight on the Irish landscape caused by the cellular revolution.
• Katherine Kelly, one of Ireland’s authenticated little people, was 34
inches tall and weighed 28 pounds when she died in 1735.
• Robert Emmet is said to have been able to rattle off the English
alphabet backward without taking a breath. This was not how or
why he died.
• Little John, Robin Hood’s “main man,” met his end not in Sherwood
Forest, but in Arbour Hill in Dublin, where he was hanged.
• Under Cromwell, it became law that the same bounty was offered
for the head of a wolf and the head of a priest—£5.
• The longest formal debate on record anywhere in the world was
conducted at University College Galway in 1995. The motion
debated—for 28 days—read as follows: “This house has all the time
in the world.”
• In January 1997, the Irish government granted its first-ever divorce.
The recipient was a terminally ill man, long separated from his wife,
who sought to marry his current partner before he died. They did
marry, and he died shortly afterward.
• When the Censorship of Films Act was passed in 1923, the first
appointed censor was James Montgomery, who confessed to know-
ing little to nothing about films. He was quite clear, however, about
his job, which, in his own words, was “to prevent the Californication
of Ireland.”
embraced the Free State of Ireland. Others, led by Eamon de Valera, shouted
betrayal and declared the Free State their latest enemy. The ensuing civil war
claimed many casualties, including Michael Collins and Cathal Brugha, two of
the revolution’s shining heroes.
Victory—if civil wars have winners—went to de Valera and those who opposed
the treaty. They did not overturn it, though, and their successors have yet to do so.
Instead, they reformed the government and led the new Free State of Ireland out
of the ravages of war and into the rigors of peace. The Free State, in passing the
Republic of Ireland Act in 1948, severed its last constitutional ties to Britain. Only
25 years later did it join the European Community, pursuing its ties to Europe
where the Irish people had for centuries looked for friendship and support.
Ireland was the first colony acquired by the British Empire and nearly the last
to be relinquished, but regrettably, this story still has no proper ending. The
“troubles” spawned by the partitioning of Ireland in 1921 have lived on to the
next century, a wound that until very recently has shown little promise of heal-
ing. There remain two Irelands, fewer than there have been in the past and yet,
for some, still one too many.
I R E L A N D T O D AY 571
2 Ireland Today
The Irish landscape remains breathtaking, its natural beauty intact, its rivers and
lakes still largely pollution free, and its people disarmingly gracious. For a decade
up through 2000, Ireland welcomed roughly 6.5 million visitors annually to its
shores. In the wake of the September 11 tragedy in the United States, 2001 was
a dismal year for tourism, and yet the Emerald Isle still welcomed over six mil-
lion visitors, a number that far surpasses Ireland’s population of 3.9 million (the
highest it’s been since 1881). Irish hospitality is legendary, and deservedly so.
Included in that hospitality, however, can be a misleading sense of tranquil-
lity, continuity, and cohesion. Like an overgrown family, Ireland is mostly
inclined to keep its turmoil to itself and to offer its guests the vacation of their
lives, which is what its guests are mostly looking for.
What is easy for any visitor to miss or to underestimate is the depth and pace
of the change occurring in Ireland today. Ireland has long been a land of pro-
found conflicts, and never more so than at present. To mention one, Irish and
Roman Catholic are assumed by many to be synonymous. The truth is that they
have never meant the same thing, nor made lasting peace with each other. The
Roman Catholicism preached by Patrick was transformed as fast as it was
embraced by the Celts of Ireland. The Vatican, like the British royalty, found the
Irish unruly and bent on taking their own road. For all their faith and devotion,
Irish Catholics have never finally decided whether to trust or mistrust their hier-
archy, appointed from Rome. Recent public scandals in the Church, followed
not by candor but by cover-up, have served only to widen ancient misgivings.
The 1996 referendum to permit legal divorce—as well as the decriminalizing of
homosexuality and the passing of the abortion information law—all urged and
supported by Ireland’s first female president, Mary Robinson, point to an Ire-
land where Rome’s iron grip is being pried away a finger at a time.
The Ireland of today, which may present a traditional face to the tourist, is
increasingly defined and determined by its youth, whose sheer numbers and
unconventional ways are creating a generation gap of seismic proportions. For
one thing, they aren’t marrying and having children with anything approximat-
ing the regularity of their parents. Young people are taking their time before
approaching the altar, and taking even longer before starting a family. Although
it has since recovered somewhat, the Irish birthrate fell in 1993, for the first time
in recorded history, below the minimum population replacement rate of 2.1
children per woman of child-bearing age. The average Irish family has 1.6 chil-
dren, as opposed to the 5, 6, or more of generations past. This is not to say that
the Irish are endangered. What is endangered, however, are the stereotypes visi-
tors might have of them.
Another gap dividing the Irish people is new money––a product of Ireland’s
sudden and dramatic economic boom in the late 1990s and early 2000s. In
1998 the economy ran in the black for the first time in 30 years, and the fol-
lowing year clocked in as the world’s fourth-fastest-growing economy, beating
out all of its European rivals. Nicknamed the Celtic Tiger, Ireland’s economy
had emerged as Europe’s unlikely and unrivaled wunderkind as Ireland’s tax
policies and initiatives were paying off. With growth came growing pains: While
many people in Ireland were getting very rich, the disparity between the haves
and have-nots widened. The paradoxical situation—wealth accompanied by ris-
ing crime, rural poverty, teen violence and suicide, and urban homelessness—
was familiar to many “rich” nations, but it’s new to Ireland.
Fun Fact Reaching Generation X
It’s reassuring to note that the Irish authorities are just as out of tune
with today’s youth as the authorities are in your own homeland. In
2001 the Department of Health launched a “Cool Choices” website
aimed at early teens. When youngsters clicked on an icon marked
“Want to get high?” they got a list of suggested alternatives to alco-
hol. These included phone-card collecting, stamp collecting, and tying
flies for fly-fishing.
Although Ireland today is European and committed to pluralistic human val-

ues, it is at the same time determined to preserve its rich legacy and distinct
character. Irish-speaking and -reading citizens represent a minority of the popu-
lation, but Irish writers, especially poets, continue to create new work. In fact,
Ireland has an Irish-language television channel. Helping to fire the renaissance
is the fact that the Irish, including some of their most talented artists and writ-
ers, are staying or coming home in large numbers. According to the 2002 cen-
sus, net migration to Ireland is now at a historic high, with “returnees”
accounting for more than half of recent immigration figures.
Finally, it must be said that the cry for peace in and with the North has never
been more desperate or determined. The peace process has been turbulent and
uncertain, with negotiators hesitant to move forward, yet dreading any return to
the chaos that preceded it. The majority of the Irish people, North and South,
want peace above all else, but murderous factions on both sides—defying com-
mon sense and common decency—simply ignore them. One day a lasting peace
will break out, as miraculous and inevitable as springtime, no matter how long
and dark the winter has been.
3 Language
Ireland has two official languages, Irish Gaelic and English. Today English is the
first and most commonly spoken language for the vast majority of the Irish peo-
ple, although Irish instruction is compulsory in the public schools. Every public
school teacher must pass a proficiency examination in Irish in order to be certi-
fied. All Irish citizens are entitled by law to conduct any official business with the
state (legal proceedings, university interviews, and filing taxes, for example) in the
Irish language. In 1835 the Irish-speaking population of Ireland was reckoned at
four million. According to the 2002 census, the Irish-speaking population of the
Gaeltacht, those scattered regions of the country where Irish is the first and, in
some cases, only language spoken, is just under 60,000. Irish speakers, however,
are not confined to the Gaeltacht. Dublin, for instance, has a significant number
of Irish-speaking individuals and families. When you consider how many people
use Irish Gaelic habitually in their speech, the number is more like 100,000. And
over a million Irish people claim to speak at least some Irish Gaelic.
Irish, a Celtic language, belongs to the same Indo-European family as most
European tongues. Modern Irish descends from Old Irish, the language of Ire-
land’s golden age and the earliest variant of the Celtic languages. Despite the lan-
guage’s decline, poets and playwrights continue to write in Ireland’s mother
tongue, and Irish-language programs hold their own on television and radio.
Appendix B:
Useful Toll-Free Numbers
& Websites
AIRLINES
Aer Lingus America West Airlines
& 800/474-7424 in the U.S. & 800/235-9292
& 01/886-8888 in Ireland www.americawest.com
www.aerlingus.com British Airways
Air Canada & 800/247-9297 in the U.S.
& 888/247-2262 & 0345/222-111 or
www.aircanada.ca 0845/77-333-77 in Britain
Air France www.british-airways.com
& 800/237-2747 in the U.S. BWIA
& 0820-820-820 in France & 800/538-2492
www.airfrance.com www.bwee.com
Air New Zealand Continental Airlines
& 800/262-1234 or -2468 in the U.S. & 800/525-0280
& 800/663-5494 in Canada www.continental.com
& 0800/737-767 in New Zealand Delta Air Lines
www.airnewzealand.com & 800/221-1212
Air Portugal www.delta.com
& 800/221-7370 in the U.S. Easyjet
& 707/205-700 in Portugal No U.S. number
www.tap-airportugal.pt www.easyjet.com
Airtran Airlines Finnair
& 800/247-8726 & 800/950-5000 in the U.S.
www.airtran.com & 358/09-818-800 in Finland
Alaska Airlines www.finnair.com
& 800/252-7522 Icelandair
www.alaskaair.com & 800/223-5500 in the U.S.
Alitalia & 354/50-50-100 in Iceland
& 800/223-5730 in the U.S. www.icelandair.is
& 8488-65641 in Italy Jet Blue Airlines
www.alitalia.it & 800/538-2583
American Airlines www.jetblue.com
& 800/433-7300 KLM
www.aa.com & 800/374-7747 in the U.S.
American Trans Air & 020/4-747-747 in Netherlands
& 800/225-2995 www.klm.nl
www.ata.com
574 A P P E N D I X B . U S E F U L TO L L - F R E E N U M B E R S & W E B S I T E S
Lufthansa & 70/10-20-00 in Denmark

& 800/645-3880 in the U.S. & 358/(0)20-386-000 in Finland
& 49/(0)-180-5-8384267 in Germany & 815/200-400 in Norway
www.lufthansa.com www.scandinavian.net
Midwest Express Song
& 800/452-2022 & 800/359-7664
www.midwestexpress.com www.flysong.com
Northwest Airlines Southwest Airlines
& 800/225-2525 & 800/435-9792
www.nwa.com www.southwest.com
Olympic Airways Swiss International Airlines
& 800/223-1226 in the U.S. & 877/359-7947 in the U.S.
& 80/111-44444 in Greece & 0848/85-2000 in Switzerland
www.olympic-airways.gr www.swiss.com
Qantas United Airlines
& 800/227-4500 in the U.S. & 800/241-6522
& 612/9691-3636 in Australia www.united.com
www.qantas.com
US Airways
Scandinavian Airlines & 800/428-4322
& 800/221-2350 in the U.S. www.usairways.com
& 0070/727-727 in Sweden
CAR-RENTAL AGENCIES
Alamo Hertz
& 800/327-9633 & 800/654-3131
www.goalamo.com www.hertz.com
Auto Europe Murrays Eurocar
& 800/223-5555 & 800/800-6000
www.autoeurope.com www.europcar.ie
Avis National
& 800/331-1212 in & 800/CAR-RENT
the continental U.S. www.nationalcar.com
& 800/TRY-AVIS in Canada Payless/Bunratty
www.avis.com & 800/729-5377
Budget www.paylesscarrental.com
& 800/527-0700
www.budget.com
Dan Dooley/Kenning Rent-a-Car
& 800/331-9301
www.dan-dooley.ie
U S E F U L TO L L - F R E E N U M B E R S & W E B S I T E S 575
CREDIT CARD COMPANIES

American Express Visa
& 800/992-3404 in the U.S. & 800/843-7587 in the U.S.
& 336/393-1111 collect from & 1800/558002 toll-free in Ireland
outside U.S. www.visa.com
& 01/617-5555 in Ireland
www.americanexpress.com
MasterCard
& 800/MC-ASSIST in the U.S.
& 1800/557378 toll-free in Ireland
www.mastercard.com
Index
Ceide Fields, 426 Ardhowen Theatre

A A Roadwatch, 19, 68 Craggaunowen Bronze- (Enniskillen), 558
Abbey Tavern (Dublin), 18, Age Project, 367 Ardmore, 227
164 the Dingle Peninsula, 339 Ardmore High Cross, 232–233
Abbey Theatre (Dublin), 166 Drombeg Stone Circle, 298 Ards, 461
Accommodations, 56–61 Dún Aengus, 10–11, 368, Ards Forest Park, 465
best, 15–17 400 The Ards Peninsula, 514–518
Achill Island, 425 Hill of Tara, 10, 203 The Ark: A Cultural Centre for
Active vacations, best, 14–15 Kenmare Druid Circle, 316 Children (Dublin), 13, 144
Adare, 5, 360–362 Knowth, 203 Arklow Golf Club, 185
Adare Heritage Centre, 360 Legananny Dolmen, 516 Armagh, 520–521
Aer Arann, 48, 400 Loughcrew, 10 Armagh Astronomy Centre
Aer Lingus, 42, 48 Lough Gur, 10 and Planetarium, 520
Ahenny High Crosses, 241 Navan Fort, 11 Armagh County Museum, 520
AIB Music Festival in Great Newgrange, 10, 204 Art galleries
Irish Houses, 32 An Creagán Visitors’ Centre, Belfast, 507
Aille Cross Equestrian 547 Dingle, 339
Centre, 395 Andrew Jackson Centre Dublin, 154
Aillwee Cave, 374 (Carrickfergus), 514 Killarney, 330
Airfares, 43–44 Andrews Lane Theatre Kinsale, 286
Airlines, 42–43, 48 (Dublin), 166 Arthur’s Quay Centre
Aisling (Waterford City), 232 An Driochead Beag/The (Limerick City), 355–356
Alias Tom (Dublin), 155 Small Bridge (Dingle), 345 Arthur Young’s Walk, 331
All Ireland Dancing Champi- Annabel’s (Dublin), 164 Athassel Priory, 241
onships (Ennis), 31 Anna Livia, 140 Athlone, 482
All-Ireland Hurling and An Pucan (Galway City), 397 Athlone Castle, 482–483
Gaelic Football Finals An Spailpin Fanac (The The Atlantic Highlands,
(Dublin), 34 Migrant Worker; Cork), 280 460–468
Altamount Gardens, 81, 178, Antiques and Collectibles Aughnanure Castle, 410
180 Fair (Dublin), 31 Austin & Co. (Derry City), 541
Amelia Earhart Centre (near Antique Tavern (Enniscorthy), Avoca Handweavers
Derry City), 539 226 Bunratty, 369
American Express, 69 Anu Design (Killarney), 329 Connemara, 412
Dublin, 100 Aquariums County Wicklow, 184
An Blascaod (The Blasket Dingle’s Oceanworld at Moll’s Gap, 317–318
Inn; Tralee), 351 Aquarium, 338 Avondale House & Forest
An Bodhran (Cork City), 280 Lahinch Seaworld and Park (Rathdrum), 180
Ancestors, tracing your, Leisure Centre, 378–379
65–67 National Sea Life Centre
Belfast, 506 (Bray), 182 B aboró International Arts
best resources, 13–14 Aran Islands, 12, 379, Festival for Children
Clare Heritage Centre, 375 399–401, 406 (Galway), 34
Derry City, 540 Aras an Uachtaráin (The Backroads, 76
Waterford City, 231 Irish White House; Dublin), Baginbun Head, 221
Ancient and prehistoric 129 Ballina, 424
Ireland Ardara, 457, 461–464, 468 Ballincollig Gunpowder Mills
Beaghmore Stone Circles Ardara Heritage Centre, 462 (near Cork City), 277
(near Cookstown), 547 Ardclinis Activity Centre Ballinskelligs, 315
best of, 10–11 (Cushendall), 524 Ballintubber Abbey, 426
Carrowmore and Carrow- Ardgillan Castle and Park, Ballybunion Golf Club, 348
keel, 11 172 Ballycastle, 522
INDEX 577
Ballydehob, 297 Belleek Pottery, 553 Blackwater River, 278

Ballyhack, 221 Belleek Shop (Ennis), 369 Blakes of the Hollow
Ballyhack Castle, 217–218 Belltable Arts Centre (Enniskillen), 558
Ballymaloe Cookery School (Limerick City), 360 Blarney Castle and Stone,
(Shanagarry), 292–293 Ben Bulben, 441 9, 277
Baltimore Diving & Water- Benburb Valley Park, Castle, Blarney Woollen Mills
sports Centre, 302 and Heritage Centre, 521 (Dublin), 157
Ba Mizu (Dublin), 160 Benwee Head, 430 Blarney Woollen Mills (near
Banagher, 482 Bergin Clarke Studio Cork City), 279–280
Bandon Pottery Shop, 300 (Rathdrum), 184 Blasket Islands, 338
Bank of Ireland Arts Centre/ Bettystown, 203 Blennerville Windmill (near
Parliament House (Dublin), Bicycling, 75–77 Tralee), 347
139 the Ards Peninsula, 516 Blessington Adventure
Bantry House, 298 Connemara, 414 Centre, 187
Barleycove, 297 Cork City, 278 Bloody Foreland, 461
Barleycove Beach, 299, 302 County Kildare, 198 Bloomsday Festival
Barna, 405 County Waterford, 234 (Dublin), 32
Barnesmore Gap, 469 County Wexford, 219–220 Blue Pool Nature Trail, 331
Barry, John, Monument County Wicklow, 185 Blue Raincoat Theatre (Sligo
(Wexford Town), 215 Derry City, 541–542 Town), 446
Battle of Aughrim Interpre- the Dingle Peninsula, 340 Boating (boat rentals), 234
tative Centre, 483 Donegal Bay, 450 the Fermanagh Lakelands,
Battle of the Boyne Com- Donegal Bay coast, 458 555
memoration, 33 Dublin, 99 Lower Shannon, 477
Beaches the Fermanagh Lakelands, Middle Shannon, 485
the Atlantic Highlands, 469 555 Upper Shannon, 491
County Waterford, 234 Galway City, 394 Boat tours and cruises
County Wexford, 219, 222 Killarney, 330 the Atlantic Highlands, 462
the Dingle Peninsula, 340 Kinsale, 286 for bird-watchers, 81
Donegal Bay coast, 458, Middle Shannon, 485 Cape Clear Island, 300
464 the Mourne Mountains, 531 Clare Island, 427
Dublin, 150 outfitters and resources, Donegal Bay, 449
Hook Peninsula, 220, 221 76–77 Dublin, 148
Sligo, 441 Sligo, 441 the Fermanagh Lakelands,
West Cork, 302 South Tipperary, 243 552–553
Beaghmore Stone Circles in the Southwest, 14–15 Galway City, 394
(near Cookstown), 547 the Sperrin Mountains, 549 Kenmare, 316
Beara Peninsula, 304 West Cork, 302 Killarney, 329
Bective Abbey, 202 Biddy O’Barnes (Barnesmore), Lough Neagh, 519
Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 452 Lower Shannon, 476–477
56–57 Bird-watching, 80–81 Middle Shannon, 484–485
Belfast, 501–521 the Atlantic Highlands, 464 Sligo Town, 438
accommodations, 508–510 Blackwater estuary, 228 Bog lands, Connemara,
nightlife, 512–513 Cape Clear Island, 300, 302 409
performing arts, 513 County Wexford, 220–222 Bog Train Tours, 483–484
restaurants, 510–512 Dublin, 150 Boland’s Irish Craft Shop
shopping, 507 the Fermanagh Lakelands, (Kinsale), 286
side trips from, 513–521 555 The Bolton Library (Cashel),
sights and attractions, Great Blasket Island, 241
504–507 340–341 The Book Centre (Kilkenny
sports and outdoor activi- Loop Head, 379 City), 255
ties, 507–508 South Tipperary, 243 The Book Centre (Waterford
transportation, 502, 504 the Sperrin Mountains, 549 City), 232
traveling to, 502 Wexford Wildfowl Reserve, Book Market Temple Bar
U.S. consulate general, 504 216 (Dublin), 158–159
visitor information, 502 Birr Castle Demesne, 483 Book of Kells, 129, 132, 202
Belfast Botanic Gardens & Black Abbey (Kilkenny City), Bookstores
Palm House, 505 252 Cork City, 279
Belfast Castle, 505 Blackrock Market (Dublin), Dublin, 154
Belfast City Marathon, 32 158 Galway City, 395
Belfast Festival at Queens, 35 Blackstairs Mountains, 178, Booley Bay, 221
Belfast Zoo, 505 222 Botanic Gardens, National
Belleek, 552 Blackwater estuary, 228 (Glasnevin), 173–174
578 INDEX
Boulevard Gallery (Dublin), Cahirciveen, 315 Doe Castle, 10, 462

136 Caislean Ui Cuain (The Castle Donegal Castle, 448
Boyle Abbey, 489 Inn; Kilkenny City), 263 Dublin Castle, 133
Brandon, Mount, 342 Calendar of events, 30–35 Dundrum Castle, 530
Brandon Bay, 340 Cape Clear Island, 81, 297, Dunguaire Castle (near
Bray, 147 300–302 Kinvara), 368, 402
Bray Head, 147, 152 Carlingford, 5, 207 Dunluce Castle (Bushmills),
Brazen Head (Dublin), 18–19, Carlow, County, 178–181, 10, 522–523
161 183, 184, 190, 191 Dysert O’Dea Castle and
Breweries and distilleries Carrantuohill, 314 Archaeology Centre,
Dublin, 137 Car rentals, 54–55 375–376
Locke’s Distillery Museum, insurance, 37–38 Enniscorthy Castle/Wexford
484 Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge County Museum, 218
Old Bushmills Distillery, 522 (Larrybane), 522 Enniskillen Castle, 554
St. Francis Abbey Brewery Carrickfergus, 513–514 Glin Castle, 361
(Kilkenny City), 254 Carrickfergus Castle, 10, Huntington Castle, 181
Brian De Staic (Killarney), 330 368, 514 Kilkenny Castle, 9, 252
Bridge House Irish Festival Carrickmacross, 209 King John’s Castle
(Tullamore), 31 Carrickmacross Lace Co-op, (Limerick City), 354–355
The Bridge Pottery 209 Knappogue Castle,
(Bennettsbridge), 256–257 Carrick-on-Shannon, 488 368–369
The Bridges of Ross, 379 Carrowkeel, 439 Lismore Castle, 233
BritRail Pass + Ireland, 50 Carrowmore, 439 Malahide Castle, 173
Browne’s Hill Dolmen, 178, Carrowmore Megalithic Norman, 9, 10, 33, 174,
180 Cemetery, 440 205, 242, 368
Brown Thomas Cartoon Inn (Rathdrum), 195 Ormond Castle, 242
Dublin, 154, 157 Car travel, 52–55 Parke’s Castle, 441
Limerick City, 356 Cashel, 240–246, 248 Portumna Castle, 476
Brú Ború Heritage Centre Casino Marino, 173 Ross Castle, 327
(Cashel), 241–242 Casla (Costelloe), 406 Rothe House (Kilkenny
BT2 (Dublin), 155–156 Castle Coole, 553 City), 252, 254, 368
Budweiser Irish Derby Castle Espie, 81, 515 Trim Castle, 9, 205, 368
(The Curragh), 33 Castlegregory, 342 Tullynally Castle and
Bull Island, 150 The Castle Inn (Caislean Gardens, 490
The Bull Ring (Wexford Ui Cuain; Kilkenny City), Castletown (Celbridge), 196
Town), 214 263 Castletroy Golf Club, 356
The Bulman (Kinsale), 291 The Castle Inn (Dublin), 161 Castle Ward, 515
Bunratty, 366 Castles Castlewellan Forest Park, 530
Bunratty Castle and Folk Ardgillan Castle and Park, The Cat & the Moon (Sligo
Park, 9–10, 14, 366–368 172 Town), 438
Bunratty Village Mills, 369 Athlone Castle, 482–483 Cathedral of St. Columb
Bunratty Winery, 367 Aughnanure Castle, 410 (Derry City), 539–540
The Burren, 8, 373–377 Ballyhack Castle, 217–218 The Causeway coast, 521–529
The Burren Centre, 374 Belfast Castle, 505 Causeway Coast Path, 525
Burren College of Art best, 9–10 Cavan Crystal Craft & Design
(Ballyvaughan), 375 Birr Castle Demesne, 483 Centre, 489
Burren Exposure (near Blarney Castle and Stone, Cave Hill Country Park
Ballyvaughan), 375 9, 277 (Belfast), 506
Burren National Park, 79, 374 Bunratty Castle and Folk C. Bonner & Son (Ardara), 463
The Burren Smokehouse Ltd. Park, 9–10, 366–368 Ceardlann an Spideil/Spiddal
(Lisdoonvarna), 375 Cahir Castle, 9, 242, 368 Craft Village, 406
Burren Way, 374 Carrickfergus Castle, 10, Ceardlann Craft Village
Burtonport, 461 368, 514 (Dingle), 339
Busker Browne’s (Galway Castle Coole, 553 Ceide Fields, 426
City), 397 Charles Fort, 9 Celtic Clays (Carlingford), 209
Bus travel, 48, 50 Charleville Forest Castle, The Celtic Note (Dublin), 159
Byrne’s Wexford Bookshop, 484 Celtic Shop (Clifden), 412
216–217 Coast and Castle Tour Ceramics and pottery
(Dublin), 147 Belleek Pottery, 553
Dalkey Castle and Heritage Bennettsbridge, 256–257
C aherdaniel, 314–316, Centre, 168 Carlingford, 209
319, 320 Desmond Castle (Kinsale), the Dingle Peninsula,
Cahir Castle, 9, 242, 368 284 339–340
INDEX 579
Dublin, 154 Clonalis House, 489 nightlife, 3, 280–282

Killarney, 330 Clonmacnois, 12, 482, 484 outdoor activities, 278
Kinsale, 286 Clonmel, 240 performing arts, 281–282
Shanagarry, 294 Clonmel Civic Swimming restaurants, 272–274
Sligo Town, 439 Pool, 244 shopping, 278–280
Waterford City, 231 Clonmines, 220 spectator sports, 277–278
West Cork, 300–302 Clonshire Equestrian Centre transportation, 268–269
Youghal, 294 (Adare), 356 visitor information, 266
Charles Fort (Kinsale), 9, 284 Club FX (Cork City), 281 Cork City Gaol, 275
Charleville Forest Castle, 484 Club M (Dublin), 164 Cork Golf Club, 278
Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop The Coach House (Round- Cork Heritage Park, 275
(Galway City), 395 wood), 195 Cork Midsummer Arts
Chester Beatty Library and Coal Quay Market (Cork), 275 Festival, 32
Gallery of Oriental Art Cobh, 292 Cork Opera House, 281
(Dublin), 141 Cobh: The Queenstown Cork Public Museum, 275
Chief O’Neill’s (Dublin), 161 Story, 293 Cornmarket (Wexford Town),
The Chimney (Dublin), 137 Cobwebs (Galway City), 395 214
China and porcelain Cois na hAbhna (Ennis), 373 Counties, 22–23
Dublin, 155 Colligan River, 234 County Meath Golf Club
Ennis, 369 Collins, Michael, Memorial (Trim), 206
Galway City, 396 Centre (Woodfield), 299 County Wicklow Gardens
Wexford Town, 216 Collins Barracks (Dublin), 133 Festival, 31–32
The China Showrooms Combridge Fine Arts Courtmacsherry Ceramics,
(Dublin), 155 (Dublin), 154 301
Christ Church Cathedral Comedy clubs Craft Centre of Ireland
(Dublin), 129, 133 Cork City, 281 (Dublin), 155
Christy’s Irish Stores Dublin, 164 Crafts
(Killarney), 330 Comeragh Drive, 240 Belfast, 507
Church of Latter Day Saints, Comeragh Mountains, 227, Connemara, 412, 413
65 240 Cork City, 279
The City Arts Centre Con Macken’s, The Cape of County Meath, 206
(Dublin), 166 Good Hope (Wexford County Wicklow, 185
City Hall (Belfast), 506 Town), 226 Derry City, 541
City Hall (Waterford City), 230 Connemara, 408–422 Donegal Town, 449
C. Kennedy & Sons Ltd accommodations, 417–421 Doolin Crafts Gallery, 379
(Ardara), 463 exploring, 409–412 Dublin, 155
Claddagh Records (Dublin), restaurants, 421–422 the Fermanagh Lakelands,
159 shopping, 412–414 555
Claire Garvey (Dublin), 156 sports and outdoor activi- Galway Bay coast, 406
Clare, County, 363–382 ties, 414–417 Galway City, 396
accommodations, traveling to, 408 Kilkenny City, 254–255
370–371, 376–377, visitor information, 408 Killarney, 330
380–382 Connemara Airport, 400 Kinsale, 286
attractions, 366–369, Connemara Golf Club (Bally- Sligo Town, 438
378–379 conneely), 416 Waterford City, 232
the Burren, 373–377 Connemara Marble Visitor Crafts of Ireland (Cork City),
coast of, 378–382 Centre (Moycullen), 279
golf, 370 412–413 Crag Cave (Castleisland), 328
nightlife, 373 Connemara National Park, Craggaunowen Bronze-Age
restaurants, 372–373, 377, 79, 410 Project, 367
382 Connemara ponies, 409–410 Crane Bar (Galway City),
shopping, 369 Coole House, 402 397
traveling to, 364 Coole Park, 402 Cratloe Woods House, 367
visitor information, 364, 366 Cork Arts Theatre, 282 Crawford Municipal Art
Clare Heritage Centre, 375 Cork Butter Museum, 275 Gallery (Cork), 275–276
Clare Island, 425, 427 Cork City, 23, 265–282 Croagh Patrick, 8, 425
Clarenbridge, 401 accommodations, 270–272 Crom Estate (Newtown-
Clarenbridge Crystal and arriving in, 266 butler), 553
Fashion Shop, 403 attractions, 275–277 The Crossbar (Sligo Town),
Cleo (Kenmare), 318 bus tours, 277 445
Clifden, 409 as European Cultural Crosshaven, 292
Cliffs of Moher, 8, 378 Capital in 2005, 1 The Crown Bar (Wexford
Clonakilty, 297 layout of, 268 Town), 227
580 INDEX
Crown Liquor Saloon traveling to, 536, 538 Dooks Golf Club (Glenbeigh),
(Belfast), 19, 512 visitor information, 538 318
Cruises and tours. See Boat Derry Craft Village, 541 Doolin, 378
tours and cruises Derrynane, 315 Doolin Crafts Gallery, 379
Cruises Street Shopping Derrynane House National Doonbeg Golf Club, 380
Centre (Limerick), 356 Historic Park, 316 Dooney Rock, 440
Crystal and glass Design Centre (Dublin), 156 Douglas Golf Club, 278
Carrick-on-Suir, 243 DESIGNyard (Dublin), 157 Down Cathedral (Down-
Cavan Crystal Craft & Desmond Castle (Kinsale), patrick), 518–519
Design Centre, 489 284 Downpatrick, 518–519
Clarenbridge, 403 De Valera Library & Museum Driving laws, tips and
County Kilkenny, 257 (Ennis), 367 cautions, 52–54
Dublin, 154 Devenish Island, 553–554 Dromahair, 440
Dungannon, 549 Devil’s Glen Holiday and Drombeg Stone Circle, 298
Ennis, 369 Equestrian Village, 186 Dromineer, 476, 478
Galway City, 393, 396 The Diamond (Donegal Dromoland Golf Club
Kilkenny City, 255 Town), 448 (Newmarket-on-
Kinsale, 286 Dick Mack’s (Dingle), Fergus), 370
Sligo Town, 439 345–346 Druids Glen Golf Club
Waterford City, 230–232 Dingle Golf Club (Ceann (Newtonmountkennedy),
Wexford Town, 216 Sibéal; Ballyferriter), 341 185
Cuchulainn country, 207–209 The Dingle Peninsula, Druid Theatre (Galway City),
Cuilagh, Mount, 556 336–346 399
Cultra, 514 accommodations, 342–344 Drumcondra, 172
Cultúrlann na hÉireann getting around, 337 Drumena Cashel (Stone
(Dublin), 164–165 pubs, 345 Fort), 530
Cummingeera, 303 restaurants, 344–345 Drum Manor Forest Park, 547
The Curragh, 196 sights and activities, Dublin, 23, 89–176
Curragh Golf Club, 198 337–342 accommodations, 2,
Currency and currency sports and outdoor activi- 102–115
exchange, 27–28, 70 ties, 340–342 arriving in, 90
Cushendun, 522 traveling to, 337 art galleries and art
Custom House (Dublin), 139 visitor information, 337 museums, 136
Customs regulations, 26–27 Dingle’s Oceanworld average monthly tempera-
Custy’s Traditional Music Aquarium, 338 tures in, 30
Shop, 369 Dingle Way, 342 babysitters, 147
Dirty Boots Treks (Dublin), Ballsbridge/Embassy
151 Row, 95
D alkey, 5, 167, 171–172 Diversions Temple Bar Ballsbridge/Embassy
Dalkey Castle and Heritage (Dublin), 32–33 Row area
Centre, 168 Diving, 86–87 accommodations,
Dalkey Hill (Dublin), 147, 152 the Ards Peninsula, 516 111–114
Dalkey Island, 147, 168 Baltimore, 302 restaurants, 126
Dan O’Hara’s Homestead Connemara, 415 banks, 100
Farm, 410–411 the Dingle Peninsula, 341 breweries and distilleries,
Davis Gallery (Dublin), 154 Kilmore Quay area, 221 137
Davy Byrnes (Dublin), 160 Doe Castle, 10, 462 business hours, 100
Delphi Adventure Centre Doheny and Nesbitt cathedrals and churches,
(Leenane), 414 (Dublin), 160 137–138
The Derg Inn, 481 Dollar Bay, 221 club and music scene,
Derragarra Inn (Butlers- Dollymount beach, 150 162–164
bridge), 492 Dolphin, swimming with a, dentists, 100
Derreen Gardens, 298 341 dinner shows and tradi-
Derry City, 535–546 Dolphin-watching, Shannon tional irish entertain-
accommodations, 542–544 Estuary, 380 ment, 164–165
nightlife, 545–546 Donegal, County, 423 doctors, 100–101
restaurants, 544–545 Donegal Bay coast, 452–460 embassies and consulates,
shopping, 541 Donegal Castle, 448 101
sights and attractions, Donegal Craft Village Fitzwilliam Square/Merrion
539–541 (Donegal Town), 449 Square area, 95
sports and outdoor activi- Donegal Town, 446–452 accommodations,
ties, 541–542 Donegal Town Summer 110–111
transportation, 538 Theatre, 452 restaurants, 124–125
INDEX 581
gay and lesbian travelers weather reports, 102 Dunbrody Abbey, 221
nightlife, 165 what’s new, 2 Errew Abbey, 426
resources, 101 Dublin Bus tours, 145 Gallarus Oratory (near
Grafton Street, shopping, Dublin Castle, 133 Ballyferriter), 338
153 Dublin City Marathon, 35 Glendalough, 11, 180–181
Historic Old City/Liberties Dublin Civic Museum, 143 Grey Abbey, 516
area, restaurants, Dublin Crystal Glass Com- Inishmurray, 12
115–118 pany (Dublin), 155 Jerpoint Abbey (Kilkenny
hospitals, 101 Dublin Experience, 144 City), 11, 250
hot lines, 101 Dublin Film Festival, 31 Kells Priory (County
layout of, 94–95 Dublin Ghost Bus, 146 Kilkenny), 256
Liberties, 95 Dublinia (Dublin), 133–134 Monasterboice (near
libraries, 141–142 Dublin International Airport, Drogheda), 208
literary landmarks, 142–143 90 Moone High Cross, 197
magazines, 101 Dublin Pass, 2 Old Mellifont Abbey (near
main arteries, streets and Dublin’s Viking Adventure, Drogheda), 208
squares, 94–95 13, 144–146 The Rock of Cashel, 11
neighborhoods, 95–96 Dublin Theatre Festival, 34 St. Mullin’s Monastery, 183
nightlife, 159–167 Dublin Tourist Office, 19 Selskar Abbey (Wexford
northern suburbs, 172–176 Dublin Woollen Mills, 158 Town), 215–216
O’Connell Street area/north Dublin Writers Museum, 133 Skellig Michael, 11–12
of the Liffey, 96 Dublin Zoo, 145, 146 Tintern Abbey (New Ross),
accommodations, Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix 219, 220
114–115 Park, 13–14 Waterford County,
restaurants, 126–129 Duiske Abbey (Graiguena- 232–233
shopping, 158 managh), 250, 255 Eask Tower (Dingle), 338
Old City/Liberties area, 95 Dún Aengus, 368, 400 East Clare Heritage Centre/
accommodations, Dunbeg Fort, 337–338 Holy Island Tours (Tuam-
103–107 Dunbrody Abbey, 221 graney), 476
shopping, 158 Dundrum Castle, 530 East Cork, 292–296
organized tours, 145–149 Dungarvan, 227 ECEAT (European Centre for
orientation, 90–96 Dungarvan Golf Club, 234 Eco Agro Tourism), 59
outdoor activities, 150–152 Dunguaire (near Galway Eddie Doherty, 463
performing arts, 165–167 City), 398 Electricity, 70
pharmacies, 101–102 Dunguaire Castle (near Elm Park Golf Club (Dublin),
police, 102 Kinvara), 368, 402 150–151
pubs, 160–164 Dun Laoghaire, 150, 170–171 Embassies and consulates, 70
restaurants, 115–129 Dunloe Lodge (Killarney), 336 Emerald Card, 50
late-night, 162 Dunluce Castle (Bushmills), Ennis, 366–373
safety, 161 10, 522–523 Enniscorthy Castle/Wexford
St. Stephen’s Green/Grafton Dunluce Centre (Bushmills), County Museum, 218
Street area, 94, 95 523 Enniscorthy Golf Club, 222
accommodations, Dunmore Cave, 256 Ennis Friary, 368
107–110 Dunmore East, 227 Ennis Golf Club, 370
for kids, 146 Dunquin, 337 Enniskillen, 551–558
restaurants, 121–124 Dursey Island, 297, 298 Enniskillen Castle, 554
shopping, 153–159 Durty Nellie’s (Bunratty), Entertainment Ireland, 19–20
side trips from, 167–176 373 Entry requirements, 26
sights and attractions, Dysert O’Dea Castle and Errew Abbey, 426
2, 129–149 Archaeology Centre, Eurailpass, 50
for kids, 144–147 375–376 Euro, 27–28
southern suburbs, 167–172 European Club (Brittas Bay),
spectator sports, 152–153 185
taxis, 91, 98–99 E amon Langton’s Everyman Palace (Cork City),
Temple Bar/Trinity College (Kilkenny City), 263 282
area, 95 Early Christian sites and Expedia, 46
accommodations, ruins ExplorErne, 554
103–107 Athassel Priory, 241 Exploris (Portaferry), 515
restaurants, 118–121 Bective Abbey, 202
shopping, 153–154 best, 11–12
transportation, 2, 96–99 Boyle Abbey, 489 F aithlegg Golf Club, 234
Trinity College area, 95 Clonmacnois, 12, 484 Fallers of Galway (Galway
visitor information, 91 Duiske Abbey, 255 City), 396
582 INDEX
Fallers Sweater Shop South Tipperary, 243 Galway Bay coast, 404–408
(Kilkenny City), 255 West Cork, 302–303 Galway Bay Golf & Country
Families with children Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann Club (Oranmore), 395
Dublin sights and activities, (Listowel), 34 Galway Cathedral, 393
144–147 Florence Court, 554 Galway City, 24, 383–403
information and resources, Folk Village Shop (Glen- accommodations, 387–390
40–41 columbkille), 457 arriving in, 386
Fanad, 462 Food Market Temple Bar attractions, 393–394
Farmer’s Market (Limerick (Dublin), 159 gay and lesbian travelers,
City), 355 Forest reserve parks, 79 387, 398
Farmhouse accommodations, Forget-Me-Not/The Craft layout of, 386
57–59 Shop (Donegal Town), 449 nightlife, 397–399
Fashions (clothing). See also Fort Dunree Military outdoor pursuits, 394–395
Knitwear, tweeds, and Museum (Buncrana), 469 restaurants, 390–393
woolens Forum Theatre (Waterford shopping, 395–397
County Wicklow, 184, 185 City), 239 side trips from, 399–403
Dublin, 155–156 Fota Island Golf Club spectator sports, 394
Galway City, 397 (Carrigtwohill), 287 transportation, 386
Kenmare, 318 Fota Island Wildlife Park & visitor information, 386
The Fermanagh Lakelands, Arboretum, 14, 293 what’s new in, 3
551–558 Four Courts (Dublin), Galway City Museum, 393
Ferries, 56 139–140 Galway Golf Club (Blackrock),
to Ireland, 44–46 The Four Masters Bookshop 395
The Ferryman, 147, 168 (Donegal Town), 449 Galway International Oyster
Festivals and special events, Foxford Woollen Mills Visitor Festival, 34–35
30–35 Centre, 426–427 Galway Irish Crystal
Film festivals Foynes Flying Boat Museum Heritage Centre, 393
Dublin Film Festival, 31 (Foynes), 360 Galway Oyster Festival
Murphy’s Cork International Frank Lewis Gallery (Clarenbridge and
Film Festival, 34 (Killarney), 330 Kilcolgan), 401
Firkin Crane Cultural Centre Frommers.com, 47 Gap of Dunloe, 314, 326,
(Cork City), 282 The Front Lounge (Dublin), 329, 330
Fisher’s of Newtownmount- 165 Gap of Mamore, 469
kennedy, 185 Frower Point, 287 Garda, 71
Fishing, 83–85 Fry Model Railway (Dublin), Gardens
the Ards Peninsula, 517 146 Ballymaloe Cookery School
the Atlantic Highlands, 464 The Fry Model Railway (Shanagarry), 293
Belfast, 507 (Malahide), 173 Belfast Botanic Gardens &
Connemara, 415 Fuchsia Craft (Oughterard), Palm House, 505
Cork City, 278 413 best, 13
County Mayo, 428–429 Funderland (Dublin), 30 Derreen Gardens, 298
County Waterford, 234 Fungie, swimming with, Glenveagh National Park, 13
County Wexford, 221–222 341 Howth Castle Rhododen-
County Wicklow, 185 Fungie the Dolphin Tours, dron Gardens, 173
Derry City, 542 14, 339 Ilnacullin, 13
the Dingle Peninsula, 341 Japanese Gardens and
Donegal Bay coast, 458 St. Fiachra’s Garden
Dublin, 150 G AA Museum (Dublin), (Kildare), 13, 196
Fermanagh Lakes, 555–556 143 Kilruddery House &
Foyle System of rivers, Gaelic games Gardens, 181
549–550 Cork City, 277 Larchill Arcadian Garden
Galway Bay coast, 406 Dublin, 152–153 (Kilcock), 197
Galway City, 394–395 Killarney, 332 Lough Rynn House &
Glens of Antrim, 524–525 Gallarus Oratory (near Gardens, 490
Killarney, 331 Ballyferriter), 338 Malahide Castle, 173
Kinsale, 286–287 Galtee Mountains, 240, 244 Mount Stewart Gardens, 13
Limerick City area, 356 Galway, County, 412. See Mount Usher Gardens,
Lough Eske, 450 also Connemara 181–182
Lower Shannon, 477 Galway Arts Centre (Galway Muckross House &
the Mourne Mountains, City), 393 Gardens, 14
531–532 Galway Arts Festival and Muckross House & Gar-
Sligo, 441 Races, 33 dens (Killarney), 327
INDEX 583
Powerscourt, 13, 182 Belfast, 508 Greyhound racing

Tullynally Castle and Connemara, 416 Cork City, 278
Gardens, 490 Cork City, 278 Dublin, 153
Garinish Island (Ilnacullin), County Clare, 380 Galway City, 394
297, 299 County Kildare, 198 Tralee, 347
Garter Lane Arts Centre County Mayo, 429 Greystones, 177–178
(Waterford City), 230 County Meath, 206 Grianan of Aileach, 469
Garter Lane Theatre (Water- County Sligo, 441 Guild Hall (Derry City), 540
ford City), 238 County Waterford, 234 Guinness Cork Jazz Festival,
The Gate (Dublin), 166 County Wexford, 222 35
Gay and lesbian travelers County Wicklow, 185 Guinness Storehouse
Cork, 269 Derry City, 542 (Dublin), 137
Dublin the Dingle Peninsula, 341 Gus O’Connor’s Pub (Doolin),
nightlife, 165 Dublin, 150–151 382
resources, 101 the Fermanagh Lakelands,
Galway City, 387, 398 556
information and resources, Galway City, 395 H alf Moon (Cork City), 281
41–42 the Inishowen Peninsula, Ha’Penny Laugh Comedy
The Genealogical Office 469–470 Club (Dublin), 164
(Dublin), 66–67 Killarney, 331 Harbour Inn (Annalong), 535
The Genealogy Center (near Kinsale, 287 Harbour Point (Little Island),
Wexford Town), 219 Limerick area, 356 278
Genealogy Centre (Derry Lower Shannon, 478 Hargadon Brothers (Sligo
City), 540 Middle Shannon, 485 Town), 445
General Post Office (GPO; Newcastle, 532 Hartmann & Son Ltd. (Galway
Dublin), 141 North Antrim, 525 City), 396–397
The General Register Office Ring of Kerry, 318 Harty’s Lounge Bar (Tralee),
(Dublin), 67 the Sperrin Mountains, 550 351
General Register Office Tralee, 347 Hawk’s Well Theatre (Sligo
Northern Ireland Upper Shannon, 491 Town), 446
(Belfast), 67 Gortin Glen Forest Park, 548 Hazelwood Sculpture Trail,
The George (Dublin), 165 Gougane Barra, 304 440
The George Inn (Prosperous), Gourmet Festival (Kinsale), Headfort Golf Club (Kells),
201 283 206
Gerry Chawkes (Clonmel), Graiguenamanagh, 250 Health concerns, 35–36
249 Grand Canal Way, 198 Health insurance, 36–37
Giant’s Causeway (Bushmills), Granny’s Bottom Drawer Heirlooms (Limerick), 356
9, 522, 523 (Kinsale), 286 The Helix (Dublin), 167
Giant’s Ring (Ballynahatty), Grant Ancestral Home, 548 Heraldic Artists (Dublin), 157
515 Granuaile Centre, 427 Heraldic Museum/Genealogi-
Glasnevin, 172 Gray’s Printers’ Museum, 548 cal Office (Dublin), 143
Glasnevin Cemetery Great Blasket Island, Heraldry, Dublin, 157
(Dublin), 12, 138–139 340–341 Heritage Card, 1, 63
Glebe House and Gallery Great Famine of 1845-49 Hey! Doodle Doodle
(Church Hill), 462 Eask Tower (Dingle), 338 (Dublin), 145, 146
Glenans Irish Sailing Club Irish Agricultural Museum The Hibernian (Cork City),
(Baltimore), 303 and Famine Exhibition 280
Glenbeigh, 315 (near Wexford Town), 218 Hibernian Research Co., 66
Glencar Lake, 440 Strokestown Park House, Hiking and walking, 77–79
Glencolumbkille, 457 Gardens & Famine the Atlantic Highlands,
Glencolumbkille Folk Park, Museum, 490 464–465
457 Great Saltee Island, 220 Burren National Park, 374
Glendalough, 11, 180–181 Greencastle Fort, 530 Connemara, 416
Glengesh Pass, 457 Greencastle Maritime Cork City, 278
Glenmalure Golf Club Museum and Planetarium County Kildare, 198
(Rathdrum), 185 (Greencastle), 469 County Mayo, 430
Glens of Antrim, 521, 522 Greene’s Bookshop Ltd. County Wexford, 222
Glenveagh National Park, (Dublin), 154 County Wicklow, 186–187
13, 79, 460, 462–463 Greenlane Gallery (Dingle), Derry City, 542
Glin Castle, 361 339 the Dingle Peninsula, 342
Golf, 81–82 Grey Abbey, 516 Donegal Bay, 450
the Ards Peninsula, 517 The Greyhound (Kinsale), Donegal Bay coast,
the Atlantic Highlands, 464 291 458–459
584 INDEX
Hiking and walking (cont.) The Curragh, 196 Irish Film Centre (Dublin), 136
Donegal Coast, 15 Dublin, 153 Irish Gaelic, 572
Dublin area, 151, 152 Galway City, 394 Irish Handcrafts (Limerick),
the Fermanagh Lakelands, Killarney, 332 356
556 Limerick Christmas Racing Irish Landmark Trust (ILT), 1–2
Kerry Way, 318 Festival, 35 Irish Linen Centre and Lisburn
Killarney, 331–332 Middle Shannon, 485 Museum (Lisburn), 519
Kinsale, 287 Tralee, 347 Irish Museum of Modern Art
Lower Shannon, 478 House of Donegal (Cork (IMMA; Dublin), 136
North Antrim Coast, 525 City), 280 Irish Music Hall of Fame
South Tipperary, 244 House of Ireland (Dublin), (Dublin), 136
the Sperrin Mountains, 550 154, 156–157 Irish National Archives, 65
Waterford City, 231 House of Names (Dublin), 157 Irish National Heritage
West Cork, 303 Howth, 172 Park, 14
Wicklow Mountains Howth beach, 150 Irish National Heritage Park
National Park, 184 Howth Castle Rhododendron (Wexford Town), 214
Hill of Slane, 202–203 Gardens, 173 Irish National Stud (Kildare),
Hill of Tara, 203 Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery 196
Historical Walking Tours of of Modern Art (Dublin), Irish Palatine Heritage
Dublin, 149 134 Centre (Rathkeale), 361
History of Ireland, 559–572 Hunting, County Wicklow, 186 The Irish Pewtermill
books about, 69 Huntington Castle, 181 (Timolin-Moone), 197
Holden Leathergoods Hunt Museum (Limerick Irish Times, 159
(Dingle), 339 City), 354 Irish Tourist Board, 19
Hole in the Wall (Galway The Irish White House (Aras
City), 397–398 an Uachtaráin; Dublin), 129
Holy Trinity Cathedrals I nacullin (Garinish Itineraries, suggested, 67–68
(Waterford City), 230 Island), 13, 299 The Iveragh Peninsula,
Holy Trinity Heritage Centre Inch Strand, 340 312–322
(Carlingford), 207 Inchydoney Beach, 302 restaurants, 321–322
Hook Head, 221, 464–465 Inishbofin, 409, 411 Ring of Kerry, 314–317
Hook Peninsula, 220–221 Inishmurray, 12, 439 shopping, 317–318
Horn Head, 461, 464 The Inishowen Peninsula, sights, 316–317
Horseback riding, 82–83 468–472 sports and outdoor activi-
the Atlantic Highlands, 464 Inistioge, 5, 250 ties, 318–321
Belfast, 508 Innisfallen Island, 323, 327 traveling to, 312
Connemara, 416 Insurance, 36–38 visitor information, 312, 314
County Kildare, 198 International Museum of
County Limerick, 356–357 Wine (Kinsale), 284
County Meath, 206 Internet access, 71 J ack Meade (Halfway
County Sligo, 442 Belfast, 504 House), 239
County Waterford, 234 Cork, 269 Jacob Halls (Kilkeel), 535
County Wicklow, 185–186 Derry City, 539 Jagoes Mill Pottery (Kinsale),
Derry City, 542 Dublin, 101 286
Dingle, 341 Galway City, 387 Jameson Heritage Centre
Donegal, 14 Kilkenny City, 251 (Midleton), 293–294
Dublin, 152 Killarney, 326 January Sales, 30
the Fermanagh Lakelands, Sligo Town, 436 Japanese Gardens (Kildare),
556 Inverin, 405 13, 196
Foulksmills, 222 Ionad An Bhlascaoid Mhoir/ Jenny Vander (Dublin), 156
Galway City, 395 The Blasket Centre Jerpoint Abbey, 11, 256
Killarney, 331 (Dunquin), 338 Jerpoint Abbey (Kilkenny
the Mourne Mountains, 532 Ionad Arann (Inishmore), 400 City), 250
South Tipperary, 244 Ireland Consolidated, 19 Jerpoint Glass Studio
the Sperrin Mountains, 550 Irish Agricultural Museum (Stoneyford), 257
Tralee, 348 and Famine Exhibition J.F.K. Trust Dunbrody (New
Upper Shannon, 491 (near Wexford Town), 218 Ross), 219
Horse-drawn-carriage tours, Irish Antique Dealers’ Fair John Barry Monument
Dublin, 148 (Dublin), 34 (Wexford Town), 215
Horse racing Irish Derby (The Curragh), 196 John Cleere’s (Kilkenny City),
Budweiser Irish Derby (The Irish Explorer, 50 263
Curragh), 33 Irish Family History Founda- John F. Kennedy Arboretum
Cork City, 278 tion, 20, 66 (New Ross), 218
INDEX 585
John Henchy & Sons (Cork Kildare, County, 195–201 Kincora, 474
City), 280 Kildare Hotel & Country King John’s Castle (Limerick
John Molloy (Ardara), 464 Club (aka The K Club), 198 City), 354–355
Joseph Knox (Waterford Kilfane Glen and Waterfall, The Kings (Waterford City),
City), 232 256 239
Joyce, James Kilkea Castle Golf Club Kinsale, 5, 283–291
Centre (Dublin), 142 (Castledermot), 198 Kinsale Crystal, 286
Museum (Sandycove), 168 Kilkenny, County, 249–264 Kinsale Golf Club, 287
Ulysses, 68, 142, 160 accommodations, 258–261 Kinsale International
Bloomsday Festival nightlife, 262 Gourmet Festival, 34
(Dublin), 32 restaurants, 261–262 Kinsale Regional Museum,
Jurys Irish Cabaret (Dublin), sports and outdoor activi- 286
165 ties, 257–258 Kinsale Silver, 286
Kilkenny Arts Festival, 33 Kirby’s Olde Brogue Inn
Kilkenny Castle, 9, 252 (Tralee), 351
Kate Kearney’s Cottage Kilkenny City, 5, 249–255. Knappogue Castle, 368–369
(Killarney), 336 See also Kilkenny, County Knitwear, tweeds, and
Kates Kitchen/Hopper & Kilkenny Crystal, 255 woolens
Pettit (Sligo Town), 438 Kilkenny Design Centre Aran Islands, 399
Kayaking, 85 (Dublin), 157 Ardara, 463–464
Cape Clear Island, 301 Kilkenny Design Centre Avoca Handweavers. See
County Mayo, 430 (Kilkenny City), 255 Avoca Handweavers
County Waterford, 234 Killala, 425–426 Connemara, 410, 412, 413
County Wicklow, 187 Killaloe, 474 Cork City, 279–280
Dublin, 152 Killarney, 314, 323–336 Donegal Town, 449
West Cork, 14, 303 accommodations, 332–335 Dublin, 157–158
Kearns, Malachy, 414–415 getting around, 324–325 Foxford Woollen Mills Visitor
Kells (County Meath), 202, layout of, 324 Centre, 426–427
205–207 nightlife, 335–336 Galway City, 397
Kells (near Kilkenny City), 250 organized tours, 328–329 Kenmare, 318
Kells Priory (County restaurants, 335 Kilkenny City, 255
Kilkenny), 256 shopping, 329–330 Killarney, 330
Kelly’s (Waterford City), 232 sights and attractions, Moll’s Gap, 317–318
Kenmare, 5, 314, 316–322 326–332 Spiddal, 406
Kenmare Bookshop sports and outdoor activi- West Cork, 301
(Kenmare), 318 ties, 330–332 Wexford Town, 217
Kenmare Druid Circle, 316 traveling to, 324 Knockmealdown Drive, 240
Kenmare Golf Club, 318 visitor information, 324 Knocknarea, 439
Kenmare Heritage Centre, Killarney Art Gallery, 330 Knockreer Estate (Killarney),
316 Killarney Bookshop, 330 326
Kennedy, John F. Killarney Golf & Fishing Knowth, 203–204
Arboretum (New Ross), 218 Club, 331 Kylemore Abbey, 411
J.F.K. Trust Dunbrody (New Killarney Lakes, 314, 329, Kyteler’s Inn (Kilkenny City),
Ross), 219 331 250, 263
Kennedy’s Animal, Bird and Killarney National Park,
Pet Farm (near Killarney), 79, 314, 323, 325, 326,
328 330, 331 L ady’s Island Lake, 221
Kenny’s Book Shop and Killarney SummerFest, Lahinch, 378
Galleries Ltd. (Galway 32–33 Lahinch Golf Club, 380
City), 396 Killary Harbour, 416 Lahinch Seaworld and
Kerry, County, 312–351 Killiney, 147, 167–168, 170 Leisure Centre, 378–379
Kerry Arts Festival, 31 Killiney Hill, 152 Lake Isle of Innisfree, 440
Kerry Bog Village Museum Killorglin, 314 La Lea (Belfast), 512
(Glenbeigh), 316 Killybegs, 457 Lambert Puppet Theatre and
Kerrygold Horse Show Kilmainham Gaol Historical Museum (Dublin), 145, 147
(Galway City), 33 Museum (Dublin), 134 Language, 572
Kerry the Kingdom (Tralee), Kilmore Quay, 221–222, 234 Laois, County, 199
347 Kilmurray Bay at Minard, Larchill Arcadian Garden
Kerry Way, 318, 332 340 (Kilcock), 197
Kevin & Howlin (Dublin), 156 Kilruddery House & Gardens, Larne, 522
Kevin McGuire & Son 181 The Laurels (Killarney), 336
(Galway City), 396 Kilrush Heritage Centre, 378 Lavitts Quay Gallery (Cork),
Kilcolgan, 401 Kiltealy, 217 276
586 INDEX
Laytown, 203 Lough Derg, 448, 478 Malahide estuary (near

Laytown and Bettystown Lough Derg Drive, 474 Dublin), 150
Golf Club, 206 Lough Erne, 551 Malin Head, 464
Legananny Dolmen, 516 Lough Eske, 450 Mallow Race Track, 278
Leinster, Mount, 217 Lough Gill, 440 Malls and shopping centers
Leinster House (Dublin), 141 The Lough Gill Drive, 440 Cork City, 278
Leitrim, County, 423, 488 Lough Gur Visitor Centre, 361 Dublin, 154
Leopardstown National Hunt Lough Inagh, 416 Malone, Molly, 140
Festival (Dublin), 35 Lough Ine, 303 Mansion House (Dublin), 139
Leopardstown Race Course Lough Key Forest Park, Marathon
(Dublin), 153 489–490 Belfast City, 32
Letterkenny, 469 Lough Leane (Lower Lake), Dublin City, 35
Liam Costigan (Kilkenny 326 Marble Arch Caves, 14, 554
City), 255 Lough Neagh, 519–520 Marble City Bar (Kilkenny
Lillie’s Bordello (Dublin), 163 Lough Neagh Discovery City), 263
Limavady, 536 Centre, 81, 520 Marlfield Lake Wildfowl
Limerick, County. See also Lough Ree, 487 Refuge, 243
Limerick City Lough Rynn House & Marsh’s Library (Dublin),
accommodations, 361–362 Gardens, 490 141–142
restaurants, 363 Louis Copeland and Sons Martello Tower (Drogheda),
Limerick Christmas Racing (Dublin), 156 207
Festival, 35 Louise Kennedy (Dublin), 156 Mary McDonnell Craft
Limerick City, 352–363 Louis Mulcahy (Dublin), 154 Studio (Slane), 206
accommodations, 357–358 Louis Mulcahy Pottery (near Matt the Thrasher (Birdhill),
nightlife, 359–360 Dunquin), 339–340 363
restaurants, 358–359 Louth, County, 207–209 May Day Races (Lisburn), 32
shopping, 355–356 Louth, County (Cuchulainn Mayo, County, 423, 424–434
side trips from, 360–363 Country), 207–209 Mayo National Park, 79
sights and attractions, Lower Lake (Lough Leane), Mayo North Heritage Centre
354–355 326 (Ballina), 427–428
transportation, 354 Lower Shannon, 473–482 Meadows & Byrne (Cork
traveling to, 353 LUAS (Dublin), 2 City), 279
visitor information, 353–354 Lughnasa Fair (Carrickfergus Meadows & Byrne (Galway
Limerick City Gallery of Art, Castle), 33 City), 396
355 Meath, County, 201
Limerick County Golf & accommodations, 206–207
Country Club, 356 M cDonnell, Mary, Craft restaurant, 207
Limerick Golf Club, 356 Studio (Slane), 206 sights and attractions,
Limerick Museum, 355 Mac Eocagain/Galway 202–205
Liquor laws, 71 Woollen Market (Galway sports and outdoor
Lisburn, 519 City), 397 activities, 206
Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking McGann’s (Doolin), 19, 382 traveling to, 202
Festival, 34 MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, 8, 331 visitor information, 202
Lismore Castle, 233 McKernan, Eugene and Medical insurance, 36–37
Lismore Heritage Centre, 233 Anke, 476–477 The Meetings (Avoca), 195
Lisnagun Ring Fort, 368 Magee of Donegal Ltd. Melody Maker Music Shop
Lissadell House, 440 (Donegal Town), 449 (Donegal Town), 449
Literary Pub Crawl (Dublin), Maghera, 459 The Mercantile (Dublin), 160
149 Magheroarty, 464 Mercier Press and Bookshop
The Living Tradition (Cork Maguire’s Warehouse Bar (Cork City), 279
City), 279 (Cork City), 281 Merrion Square (Dublin), 146
The Lobby Bar (Cork City), Maherabeg, beach at, 340 Michael Collins Memorial
281 Mahon Falls, 233 Centre (Woodfield), 299
The Locke (Limerick City), 359 Mail, 71 Middle Lake (Muckross
Locke’s Distillery Museum, Mainly Murder (Cork City), Lake), 326
484 279 Middle Shannon, 482–487
The Long Hall (Dublin), 160 Malahide, 172 The Midlands, 24–25
The Long Valley (Cork City), Malahide beach, 150 Milk Bar Club (Belfast), 512
19, 280–281 Malahide Castle (Dublin), Milk Market (Limerick City),
Loop Head, 379 146, 173 355
Lord Kingsale (Kinsale), 291 Malahide Castle Demesne Millars Connemara Tweed
Lost-luggage insurance, 37 (Dublin), 146 Ltd. (Clifden), 413
Loughcrew, 204
INDEX 587
Millennium Bridge (Dublin), Murlough Nature Reserve, National Nature Reserves, 80

94 530 National parks, 79
Millennium Forum (Derry Murphy’s Cat Laughs Comedy National Photographic
City), 545 Festival (Kilkenny Town), 32 Archive (Dublin), 142
Millennium Spire (Dublin), Murphy’s Cork International National Sea Life Centre
140 Film Festival, 34 (Bray), 182
Millmount Museum Murphy’s International National Shrine of Our Lady
(Drogheda), 207 Mussel Fair (Bantry), 32 of Knock, 428
Mizen Head, 303 Murphy’s Laughter Lounge Natural History Museum
Mizen Vision, 299 (Dublin), 164 (Dublin), 143
M. J. Finnegan’s (Annacotty), Museum of Irish Transport Navan, 202
363 (Killarney), 328 Navan Fort, 521
M. Kennedy and Sons Ltd Music, traditional Neary’s (Dublin), 160
(Dublin), 154 Doolin, 379, 382 Nenagh, 474
Model Arts Centre (Sligo Dublin, 149 Newbridge Cutlery (New-
Town), 436 Irish Music Hall of bridge), 197–198
Moll’s Gap, 314 Fame, 136 Newbridge House and Park
Molly Darcy’s (Killarney), 336 pubs, 161–162 (Donabate), 174
Monaghan’s (Dublin), 158 shopping, 159 Newcastle, 529, 531–533, 535
Monasterboice (near Ennis, 369, 373 Newgrange, 204
Drogheda), 208 Galway City, 397 Newgrange Farm, 204–205
Money matters, 27–29 Sligo Town, 438 Newman House, 12
Moone High Cross, 197 Musical instruments Newman House (Dublin), 141
The Moone High Cross Inn, Donegal Town, 449 Newmarket-on-Fergus, 366
201 Galway City, 397 Newshound, 20, 497
Moons (Galway City), 396 Roundstone, 413 Nicholas Mosse Pottery
Moore, Thomas, 183, 195, 203 Sligo Town, 438 (Bennettsbridge), 257
Moore Street Market Music festivals Nire Valley Drive, 240
(Dublin), 159 AIB Music Festival in Great Nora Barnacle House
Moran’s Oyster Cottage Irish Houses, 32 (Galway City), 393
(Kilcolgan), 19, 402 Guinness Cork Jazz Normans (Anglo-Normans),
Mossy Woods Nature Trail, Festival, 35 221
331 Killarney SummerFest, castles, 9, 10, 33, 174, 205,
Mother Red Caps Market 32–33 242, 368
(Dublin), 159 Oxegen (Punchestown Clonmines, 220
Mother Red Caps Tavern Racecourse), 33 North Bull, 150
(Dublin), 161–162 Wexford Festival Opera, 35 North Dublin, 12
Mountshannon, 476, 477, 479 Muskry, Lake, 244 Northern Ireland, 25, 70,
Mount Stewart Gardens, 13 Mutton Lane Inn (Cork City), 493–558
Mount Stewart House, 516 281 embassies and consulates,
Mount Usher Gardens, 500
181–182 safety, 500
The Mourne Grange Craft N ancy Blake’s (Limerick transportation, 499
Shop and Tea Room City), 359 traveling to, 497–499
(Kilkeel), 531 The National 1798 Visitor visitor information, 497
The Mourne Mountains, Centre (Enniscorthy), 219 Northern Ireland Railways, 48
529–535 The National Archives The Northwest, 24, 423–472
Mourne Wall trek, 531 (Dublin), 66 Nostalgia (Kenmare), 318
Moyle Way, 525 National Archives and Number Twenty Nine
Moyne Abbey, 426 Records Administration, (Dublin), 144
M. Quirke (Sligo Town), 65
438 National Botanic Gardens
MTM (Derry City), 541 (Glasnevin), 173–174 O ak Tavern (Ferrycarrig),
Muckross Abbey, 327 National Concert Hall 227
Muckross House & Gardens (Dublin), 167 O’Connell, Daniel, Derrynane
(Killarney), 14, 327 National Gallery of Ireland House National Historic
Muckross Traditional Farms (Dublin), 134–135 Park, 316
(Killarney), 327 National Heritage Week, 34 O’Connell Bridge (Dublin), 94
Mucros Craft Centre National Library (Dublin), 66 O’Donoghue’s (Dublin), 162
(Killarney), 330 National Library of Ireland O’Flaherty’s (Dingle), 346
Mulligan (Galway City), 397 (Dublin), 142 Old Abbey (Donegal Town),
The Munster (Waterford National Museum (Dublin), 448
City), 239 135
588 INDEX
Old Boat House Nature Trail, Phoenix Park (Dublin), 135,

331 146 R abbitt’s (Galway City),
Old Bushmills Distillery, Piper’s Rest (Kilcar), 460 398
522, 523 Plantation of Ulster Visitor Raheen Woods, 478
Old Church Craft Shop & Centre (Draperstown), Rail passes, 50
Gallery (Terryglass), 477 548 Railway Bar (Clonmel), 249
The Olde Castle Bar (Donegal P. McCormack and Sons Rathlin Island, 522, 524
Town), 452 (Dun Laoghaire), 172 Rathmullan, 462
Old English Market (Cork), The Point Depot (Dublin), 167 Raven Nature Reserve, 222
265, 276 Police, 71 The Red Room (Cork City),
Old Head Golf Links Polo, Dublin, 153 281
(Kinsale), 287 Pony trekking, North Antrim, Reginald’s Tower (Waterford
The Old Jameson Distillery 525 City), 230
(Dublin), 90, 137 Portacloy, 430 Regions of Ireland, 22
Old Mellifont Abbey (near Portally Cove, 227 The Registry of Deeds
Drogheda), 208 Portlaoise, 199 (Dublin), 67
The Old Midleton Distillery, Portmagee, 314 Renards (Dublin), 163
293–294 Portmarnock beach, 150 Restaurants
Old Railway Line, 278 Portmarnock Golf Club best, 17–18
Oliver St. John Gogarty (Portmarnock), 151 fixed-price meals at, 1
(Dublin), 162 Portrush, 522 prices, 62
O’Máille (O’Malley; Galway Portumna, 474 reservations, 61
City), 397 Portumna Castle, 476 tips on, 61–63
O’Malley, Grace, 429 Portumna Forest Park, 476, Ring of Hook, 220–221
O’Malley’s (Galway City), 398 478 Ring of Kerry, 312, 314–317
Orbitz, 47 Post offices, 69 Rí-Rá (Dublin), 163
Orchard Gallery (Derry City), Powerscourt Gardens, House River Barrow, 243
540 Exhibition, and Waterfall, River Club (Dublin), 160
Ormeau Baths Gallery 13, 182 River Lee, 278
(Belfast), 506 Powerscourt Townhouse River Nore, 243
Ormond Castle, 242 Centre (Dublin), 155 River Shannon, fishing, 356
Oughterard Golf Club P. Powell & Sons/The Music River Suir, 243
(Ballyconneely), 416 Shop (Galway City), 397 Rockabill Island, 150
Our Lady of Mount Priceline, 47 The Rock of Cashel, 11, 242
Carmel/Whitefriar Street Prince August Ltd. (Mac- Rock of Dunamase, 199
Carmelite Church (Dublin), room), 301 Rogerstown estuary (near
137 P. T. Murphy (Kilkenny City), Dublin), 150
Outdoor activities, 75–88 255 The Ronald Reagan (Bally-
Out on the Liffey (Dublin), The Public Record Office poreen), 249
165 of Northern Ireland Rose of Tralee International
Oxegen (Punchestown (Belfast), 67 Festival, 33–34, 346
Racecourse), 33 Pubs, 63 Rosguill, 462
Oyster country, 401–403 best, 18–19 Rosmuc, 406
Oyster Tavern (Tralee), 351 Puckane Crafts, 477 Rossaveal, 405
Puck Fair (Killorglin), 33, 314 Ross Castle, 327
The Purty Kitchen (Dun Rosserk Abbey, 426
P adraic Pearse Cottage Laoghaire), 172 Rosses, 461
(Rosmuc), 406 Rossmore Country Pottery,
Palace Bar (Dublin), 160 302
Pan Celtic Festival, 32nd Q ixo, 47 Rothe House (Kilkenny City),
(Kilkenny), 31 The Quays (Galway City), 252, 254, 368
Parke’s Castle, 441 398 Roundstone, 409, 413, 421
Parknasilla, 316 Queen’s University (Belfast), Roundstone Musical
Passage East, 227 502 Instruments, 413
Patrick’s Bed, 416 The Quiet Man (film), 397, Royal Dublin Golf Club
Pat’s Bar (Belfast), 512–513 412, 424, 430 (Dublin), 151
The Peacock (Dublin), 166 Quills (Cork City), 280 Royal Dublin Society (RDS),
Peatlands Park, 521 Quills Woolen Market 167
Penrose Crystal (Waterford (Kenmare), 301, 318 Russborough House
City), 232 Quill’s Woollen Market (Blessington), 183
The Percy French (Newcastle), (Killarney), 330 Ryan’s of Parkgate Street
535 (Dublin), 161
INDEX 589
Salthill, 405 The Skellig Experience

S afety, 71–72 Samhlaíocht Chiarrai/Kerry (Valentia Island), 316–317
Northern Ireland, 500 Arts Festival, 31 The Skellig Islands, 317–322
Sailing, 86 Sandycove, 171 Skellig Michael, 11–12, 314,
County Waterford, 234 Sandymount Strand, 150 317
Dingle, 341 Sawel Mountain, 549 Skerries, 172
Dublin, 152 Scattery Island, 379 Skerries Mills, 174
Kinsale, 287 Scenic drives Skibbereen, 297
Lower Shannon, 477 Lough Derg Drive, 474 Slane, 202, 206
Newcastle, 532 The Lough Gill Drive, Slea Head, 337
West Cork, 303 440–441 Slieve Bloom Environmental
St. Anne’s Church (Cork), 276 Ring of Kerry, 314–317 Park, 8, 199
St. Audeon’s Church (Dublin), Sheep’s Head Loop, 298 Slieve Bloom Way, 478
137–138 South Tipperary, 240 Slieve Donard, 529
St. Canice Cathedral The Schooner Inn (Donegal Slieve League, 8–9, 457, 458
(Kilkenny City), 254 Town), 452 Slievenamon, 244
St. Colmcille’s House (Kells), Schull, 297 Slieve Snacht, 469
205 Scilly Walk, 287 Sligo, County, 13, 423. See
St. Eugene’s Cathedral Sciuird Archaeological also Sligo Town and
(Derry City), 540 Adventures, 339 environs
St. Fiachra’s Garden Seafari (Kenmare), 316 Sligo Abbey, 436
(Kildare), 196 Seal-watching trips Sligo County Museum &
St. Finbarr’s Cathedral (Kenmare), 316 Niland Gallery, 437
(Cork), 276 Searson’s (Dublin), 161 Sligo Craft Pottery, 439
St. Francis Abbey Brewery Seasons, 30 Sligo Crystal & Giftware
(Kilkenny City), 254 Self-catering accommoda- Ltd., 439
St. George’s Market tions, 58–59 Sligo Town and environs,
(Belfast), 507 Selskar Abbey (Wexford 434–446
St. Helens Bay Golf Club Town), 215–216 accommodations, 442–444
(Kilrane), 222 Seniors, 38–39 exploring the surrounding
St. Iberius Church (Wexford 1796 Bantry French Armada countryside, 439–441
Town), 215 Exhibition Centre, 299 layout of, 434, 436
St. Kevin’s Way, 186 The Shanakee (Kinsale), 291 nightlife, 445
St. Margaret’s Golf Club Shandon Craft Centre (Cork restaurants, 444–445
(near Dublin), 151 City), 279 sports and outdoor activi-
St. Mary’s Cathedral Shannon Airport, 364, 366 ties, 441–442
(Killarney), 328 Shannon Crystal (Ennis), 369 transportation, 436
St. Mary’s Cathedral Shannon Duty Free Shops, traveling to, 434
(Limerick City), 355 369 visitor information, 434
St. Mary’s Church (Killarney), Shannon-Erne Waterway, 551 Smuggler’s Creek (Rossnow-
328 Shannon Golf Club, 370 lagh), 19, 456
St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral Shannon River. See Lower Smyth’s Irish Linens
(Dublin), 138 Shannon; Middle Shannon; (Belfast), 507
St. Michan’s Church (Dublin), Upper Shannon Sneem, 315
138 Shaw, George Bernard, The Southeast, 23, 210–264
St. Mullin’s Monastery, 183 Birthplace (Dublin), South Tipperary, 240–249
St. Nicholas’ Collegiate 142–143 The Southwest, 23–24
Church (Galway City), Sheepchandler Gallery The Spaniard (Kinsale), 291
393–394 (Roundstone), 413 Spa Wells Centre (Lisdoonva-
St. Patrick Heritage Centre/ Sheep’s Head Loop, 298 rna), 376
Down County Museum Sheep’s Head Way, 304 Special events and festivals,
(Downpatrick), 519 Shillelagh, 178, 186, 187 30–35
St. Patrick’s Cathedral Shop hours, 70 Sperrin Heritage Centre
(Dublin), 12, 135 Siamsa, The Galway Folk (Cranagh), 548
St. Patrick’s Day Parades, 31 Theatre (Galway City), 399 The Sperrin Mountains,
St. Patrick’s Dublin Festival, Sightseeing discounts, 63–64 546–551
31 Síla Mag Aoide Designs Spiddal, 405
St. Patrick’s Trian Visitor (Sheila Magee) (Round- Spy Club (Dublin), 163
Complex, 521 stone), 413 Stag’s Head (Dublin), 161
St. Patrick’s Well, 243 Silent Valley Mountain Staigue Fort, 315, 368
St. Teresa’s Church (Dublin), Park, 531 Standun, 406
138 Six Nations Rugby Tourna- Stanford’s Village Inn
Sally Gap, 178 ment (Ballsbridge), 31 (Dromahair), 445
590 INDEX
Steam Museum (Straffan), Tollymore Forest Park, 531 University College, Cork
198 Tom Caldwell Gallery (U.C.C.), 276–277
The Steensons (Belfast), 507 (Belfast), 507 University Concert Hall
The Steensons (Glenarm), 524 Torc Mountain, 331 (Limerick City), 360
Stephen Pearce Pottery Tory Island, 461–462 Upper Lake, 326
(Shanagarry), 294 Tourist information, 25–26 Upper Shannon, 487–492
Stoneware Jackson (Ben- Tower Craft Design Centre
nettsbridge), 257 (Dublin), 155
Strandhill, 439 Tower Museum (Derry City), V alentia, 315
Strangford Lough, 514–515 540–541 Valentia Island, 314
Strokestown Park House, Trabeg Beach, 340 Vale of Avoca, 183
Gardens & Famine Traditional Irish Musical Pub VAT (value-added tax), 72
Museum, 490 Crawl (Dublin), 149 Northern Ireland, 501
Studio Donegal (Kilcar), 458 Traditional Music Shop, VAT (value-added tax)
Suir Scenic Drive, 240 379 refunds, 64–65
Sutton beach, 150 Traffic (Dublin), 163 VBT, 76
Swiss Cottage (Cahir), Traighmore Strand, 464 the Vee, 240–241
242–243 Train travel, 48 Vee Gap, 244
Tralee, 346–351 Vicar Street (Dublin), 164
Tralee-Blennerville Steam Vikings, 207, 368
Tacumshin Lake, 221 Train, 347 Dublin, 146, 148
Taibhdhearc Theatre (Galway Tralee Golf Club, 347–348 Dublin’s Viking Adventure,
City), 399 Tramore, 464 144–145
Taipeis Gael (Glencolum- Traveler’s checks, 28–29 Waterford City, 227, 230,
bkille), 458 Traveling 231–232
T. & H. Doolan (Waterford around Ireland, 48–56 Viking Splash Tour (Dublin),
City), 239 to Ireland, 42–46 146, 148
Tara’s Palace (Dublin), 147 Travel insurance, 36–38 The Vineyard (Cork City),
Tatler Jack (Killarney), 336 Travelocity, 46 281
Taxes, 72 Treasure Chest (Galway Vintage Club (Limerick City),
Taxis and hackneys, 55 City), 396 359
Telephone, 72–73 Trim Castle, 9, 205, 368 Visitor information, 25–26
Northern Ireland, 501 Trip-cancellation insurance
Temple Bar Gallery and (TCI), 36
Studios (Dublin), 136 Triskel Arts Centre (Cork W alk Macabre (Dublin),
Tennis City), 282 149
Kinsale, 287 Tullynally Castle and Wards Music Shop (Donegal
South Tipperary, 244 Gardens, 490 Town), 449
Terryglass, 476, 481, 482 The Twelve Bens, 8, 409 War Memorial Gardens
The Thatch (Ballisodare), 445 Twice As Nice (Galway City), (Dublin), 134
Theater 396 Water, drinking, 74
Belfast, 513 The Twin Churches: Church Waterford, County, 227–239
Cork City, 282 of the Assumption and accommodations, 234–237
Derry City, 545 Church of the Immaculate attractions, 232–233
Donegal Town, 452 Conception (Wexford nightlife, 238–239
Dublin, 165–166 Town), 216 restaurants, 237–238
Galway City, 399 Tynan’s Bridge House sports and outdoor
Kilkenny City, 262–263 (Kilkenny City), 263–264 activities, 234
Sligo Town, 446 Tyrone Crystal (Dungannon), transportation, 228–229
Theatre Royal (Wexford 549 traveling to, 228
Town), 226 visitor information, 228
Tholsel (Kilkenny City), 250 Waterford Castle Golf and
Thoor Ballylee (Gort), 402 U lster-American Folk Park Country Club (Ballinakill),
Tierney’s (Clonmel), 249 (Omagh), 549 234
Tigh Neachtain (Naughton’s; Ulsterbus, 50 Waterford City, 227–232. See
Galway City), 398 Ulster Folk & Transport also Waterford, County
Time zone, 73 Museum (Cultra), 514 Waterford Crystal Factory
Tintern Abbey, 220 Ulster Museum (Belfast), and Gallery (Waterford
Tintern Abbey (New Ross), 506–507 City), 230–231
219 Ulster Way, 464, 525, 556 Waterford Golf Club
Tipperary Crystal, Carrick- Ulysses (Joyce), 68, 142, 160 (Newrath), 234
on-Suir, 243 Bloomsday Festival Waterford Heritage
Tipping, 73 (Dublin), 32 Genealogical Centre, 231
INDEX 591
Waterford Maritime Festival, Westport, 8, 424, 425 The Winding Stair (Galway
32 Westport Golf Club, 429 City), 395
Waterford Pottery and the Westport House, 428 Windsurfing, 87–88
Dyehouse Gallery (Water- Wexford, County, 210–227 County Waterford, 234
ford City), 231 accommodations, 222–225 the Dingle Peninsula, 342
Waterford Show (Waterford nightlife, 226–227 Dublin, 152
City), 239 restaurants, 225–226 West Cork, 304
Waterford Treasures at the sights and attractions, W.M. South’s (Limerick City),
Granary Museum (Water- 217–219 359
ford City), 227, 231–232 sports and outdoor activi- Wolfe Tone, Theobald, 140,
Watergate Theatre (Kilkenny ties, 219–222 299, 506, 567
City), 262–263 Wexford Arts Centre Woodford, 476
Watersports (Cornmarket), 226 Woodford Mummers
Connemara, 417 Wexford Coastal Path, 222 Feile, 35
County Wicklow, 187 Wexford Festival Opera, 35, The Woolen Mills Glen-
Dublin, 152 226 dalough (Laragh), 185
Fermanagh Lakes, 556 Wexford Silver, 217 The Wool Shop (Wexford
the Inishowen Peninsula, Wexford Town, 210–217. See Town), 217
470 also Wexford, County The Workhouse, 463
Kinsale, 287 Wexford Wildfowl Reserve, The Workhouse Museum and
Lower Shannon, 477 81, 216 Library (Derry City), 541
Waterstone’s Booksellers Where: Dublin, 101 World Irish Dancing Champi-
(Cork City), 279 Whichcraft (Dublin), 155 onships (Ennis), 31
Waterville, 315 Whitefriar Street Carmelite The Wren’s Nest (Wexford
Waterville Golf Links, 318 Church (Dublin), 137 Town), 227
Waterways Visitor Centre White Gold (Limerick), 356
(Dublin), 144 The White House (Kinsale),
Websites 291 Y eats, William Butler, 84,
best, 19–20 White’s Tavern (Belfast), 513 440
traveler’s toolbox, 48 White-water kayaking, Grave (Drumcliffe), 441
travel-planning and County Wicklow, 187 Memorial Building (Sligo
booking, 46–48 Wicklow, County, 177–195 Town), 437–438
Weddings, Irish, 65 accommodations, 187–193 Thoor Ballylee (Gort), 402
Wehrly Bros. Ltd (Sligo pubs, 195 Yeats Tavern (Drumcliffe),
Town), 439 restaurants, 193–194 446
Weir and Sons (Dublin), 157 shopping, 184–185 Yeats Winter School (Sligo
Weirs (Dublin), 154 sights and attractions, Town), 31
Wellington Bridge., 220 178–184 Yello Gallery (Kinsale), 286
The West, 24 sports and outdoor Yola Farmstead (near Wex-
West Coast, 14 pursuits, 185–187 ford Town), 219, 226
West Cork, 296–311 traveling to, 178 Youghal, 292
accommodations, 304–309 visitor information, 178 Youghal Pottery, 294
exploring, 297–298 Wicklow Gap, 178 Youth hostels, 59
restaurants, 309–311 Wicklow Mountains, 178
shopping, 300–302 Wicklow Mountains National
sights and attractions, Park, 79, 183–184 Z oos
298–300 Wicklow’s Historic Gaol, Belfast, 505
sports and outdoor activi- 184 Dublin, 145, 146
ties, 302–304 Wicklow Way, 178, 184, 186 Fota Island Wildlife Park &
traveling to, 297 Wilderness Gorge, 244 Arboretum, 293
visitor information, 297 William Britton & Sons The Zosimus Experience
The Western Way, 416 (Donegal Town), 449 (Dublin), 149
Westgate Heritage Tower Wilson Ancestral Home Zulu’s Bar (Galway City), 398
(Wexford Town), 216 (Strabane), 549
Portable Guides
Destinations in a Nutshell
• Frommer's Portable Acapulco, Ixtapa & • Frommer’s Portable Los Cabos & Baja
Zihuatanejo • Frommer’s Portable Maine Coast
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• Frommer’s Portable Australia’s Great • Frommer’s Portable Nantucket & Martha’s
Barrier Reef Vineyard
• Frommer’s Portable Bahamas • Frommer’s Portable New Orleans
• Frommer’s Portable Berlin • Frommer’s Portable New York City
• Frommer’s Portable Big Island of Hawaii • Frommer’s Portable New York City from
• Frommer’s Portable Boston $90 a Day
• Frommer’s Portable California Wine Country • Frommer’s Portable Paris
• Frommer’s Portable Cancun • Frommer’s Portable Paris from $90 a Day
• Frommer’s Portable Cayman Islands • Frommer’s Portable Phoenix & Scottsdale
• Frommer’s Portable Charleston • Frommer’s Portable Portland
• Frommer’s Portable Chicago • Frommer’s Portable Puerto Rico
• Frommer’s Portable Disneyland® • Frommer’s Portable Puerto Vallarta,
• Frommer’s Portable Dominican Republic Manzanillo & Guadalajara
• Frommer’s Portable Dublin • Frommer’s Portable Rio de Janeiro
• Frommer’s Portable Florence • Frommer’s Portable San Diego
• Frommer’s Portable Frankfurt • Frommer’s Portable San Francisco
• Frommer’s Portable Hong Kong • Frommer’s Portable Savannah
• Frommer’s Portable Houston • Frommer’s Portable Seattle
• Frommer’s Portable Las Vegas • Frommer’s Portable Sydney
• Frommer’s Portable Las Vegas for • Frommer’s Portable Tampa & St. Petersburg
Non-Gamblers • Frommer’s Portable Vancouver
• Frommer’s Portable London • Frommer’s Portable Vancouver Island
• Frommer’s Portable London from • Frommer’s Portable Venice
$90 a Day • Frommer’s Portable Virgin Islands
• Frommer’s Portable Los Angeles • Frommer’s Portable Washington, D.C.
Available at bookstores everywhere.

DARE TO BE...
...
Irreverent Guide to Las Vegas Irreverent Guide to Rome
Irreverent Guide to London Irreverent Guide to Seattle & Portland
Irreverent Guide to Paris Irreverent Guide to Vancouver
Irreverent Guide to Boston Irreverent Guide to Washington, D.C.
Irreverent Guide to Los Angeles Irreverent Guide to Chicago
Available at bookstores everywhere.

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FROMMER’S® COMPLETE TRAVEL GUIDES
Alaska Florence, Tuscany & Umbria Philadelphia & the Amish
Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call Florida Country
American Southwest France Portugal
Amsterdam Germany Prague & the Best of the Czech
Argentina & Chile Great Britain Republic
Arizona Greece Provence & the Riviera
Atlanta Greek Islands Puerto Rico
Australia Halifax Rome
Austria Hawaii San Antonio & Austin
Bahamas Hong Kong San Diego
Barcelona, Madrid & Seville Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu San Francisco
Beijing India Santa Fe, Taos & Albuquerque
Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg Ireland Scandinavia
Bermuda Italy Scotland
Boston Jamaica Seattle
Brazil Japan Shanghai
British Columbia & the Canadian Kauai Sicily
Rockies Las Vegas Singapore & Malaysia
Brussels & Bruges London South Africa
Budapest & the Best of Hungary Los Angeles South America
Calgary Maryland & Delaware South Florida
California Maui South Pacific
Canada Mexico Southeast Asia
Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán Montana & Wyoming Spain
Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Montréal & Québec City Sweden
Vineyard Munich & the Bavarian Alps Switzerland
Caribbean Nashville & Memphis Texas
Caribbean Ports of Call New England Thailand
Carolinas & Georgia Newfoundland & Labrador Tokyo
Chicago New Mexico Toronto
China New Orleans Turkey
Colorado New York City USA
Costa Rica New York State Utah
Cruises & Ports of Call New Zealand Vancouver & Victoria
Cuba Northern Italy Vermont, New Hampshire &
Denmark Norway Maine
Denver, Boulder & Colorado Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Vienna & the Danube Valley
Springs Prince Edward Island Virgin Islands
England Oregon Virginia
Europe Ottawa Walt Disney World® & Orlando
Europe by Rail Paris Washington, D.C.
European Cruises & Ports of Call Peru Washington State
FROMMER’S® DOLLAR-A-DAY GUIDES

Australia from $50 a Day Ireland from $80 a Day Washington, D.C. from $80 a
California from $70 a Day Italy from $70 a Day Day
England from $75 a Day London from $90 a Day Portable London from $90 a Day
Europe from $85 a Day New York City from $90 a Day Portable New York City from $90
Florida from $70 a Day Paris from $90 a Day a Day
Hawaii from $80 a Day San Francisco from $70 a Day Portable Paris from $90 a Day
FROMMER’S® PORTABLE GUIDES

Acapulco, Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo Florence Phoenix & Scottsdale
Amsterdam Frankfurt Portland
Aruba Hong Kong Puerto Rico
Australia’s Great Barrier Reef Las Vegas Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo &
Bahamas Las Vegas for Non-Gamblers Guadalajara
Berlin London Rio de Janeiro
Big Island of Hawaii Los Angeles San Diego
Boston Los Cabos & Baja San Francisco
California Wine Country Maine Coast Savannah
Cancún Maui Vancouver
Cayman Islands Miami Vancouver Island
Charleston Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard Venice
Chicago New Orleans Virgin Islands
Disneyland® New York City Washington, D.C.
Dominican Republic Paris Whistler
Dublin
FROMMER’S® NATIONAL PARK GUIDES
Algonquin Provincial Park Grand Canyon Yellowstone & Grand Teton
Banff & Jasper National Parks of the American Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings
Family Vacations in the National West Canyon
Parks Rocky Mountain Zion & Bryce Canyon
FROMMER’S® MEMORABLE WALKS

Chicago New York San Francisco
London Paris
FROMMER’S® WITH KIDS GUIDES

Chicago Ottawa Vancouver
Las Vegas San Francisco Walt Disney World® & Orlando
New York City Toronto Washington, D.C.
SUZY GERSHMAN’S BORN TO SHOP GUIDES

Born to Shop: France Born to Shop: Italy Born to Shop: New York
Born to Shop: Hong Kong, Born to Shop: London Born to Shop: Paris
Shanghai & Beijing
FROMMER’S® IRREVERENT GUIDES

Amsterdam Los Angeles San Francisco
Boston Manhattan Seattle & Portland
Chicago New Orleans Vancouver
Las Vegas Paris Walt Disney World®
London Rome Washington, D.C.
FROMMER’S® BEST-LOVED DRIVING TOURS

Austria Germany Northern Italy
Britain Ireland Scotland
California Italy Spain
France New England Tuscany & Umbria
THE UNOFFICIAL GUIDES®

Beyond Disney Hawaii San Francisco
California with Kids Las Vegas Skiing & Snowboarding in the
Central Italy London West
Chicago Maui South Florida including Miami &
Cruises Mexico’s Best Beach Resorts the Keys
Disneyland® Mini Las Vegas Walt Disney World®
England Mini Mickey Walt Disney World® for
Florida New Orleans Grown-ups
Florida with Kids New York City Walt Disney World® with Kids
Inside Disney Paris Washington, D.C.
SPECIAL-INTEREST TITLES
Athens Past & Present Frommer’s Road Atlas Europe
Cities Ranked & Rated Frommer’s Road Atlas France
Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London Frommer’s Road Atlas Ireland
Frommer's Best RV & Tent Campgrounds Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from
in the U.S.A. New York City
Frommer’s Caribbean Hideaways The New York Times’ Guide to Unforgettable
Frommer's China: The 50 Most Memorable Trips Weekends
Frommer’s Exploring America by RV Retirement Places Rated
Frommer’s Gay & Lesbian Europe Rome Past & Present
Frommer’s NYC Free & Dirt Cheap
Travel Tip: He who finds the best hotel de
al
has more to spend on facials involving
knobbly vegetables.
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G the accuracy and

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

Wiley Publishing, Inc.

What’s New in Ireland 1

1 The Best of Ireland 4

1 The Best Picture-Postcard 8 The Best Family Resources . . . .13

2 Planning Your Trip to Ireland 21

6 Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 8 Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86

5 Out from Dublin 177

6 The Southeast 210

7 Cork: The Rebel City 265

8 Out from Cork 283

9 County Kerry: The Kingdom 312

10 The Mouth of the Shannon: Limerick & Clare 352

11 Galway City 383

12 Out from Galway 404

13 The Northwest: Mayo, Sligo & Donegal 423

14 The Midlands: Along the River Shannon 473

15 Northern Ireland 493

Appendix A: Ireland in Depth 559

Appendix B: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 573

Ireland 6 Cork City 267

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

Warning Warning—traveler’s advisories are usually in effect

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

1 The Best Picture-Postcard Towns

Clare Island Clew Bay Knock LOUT H

2 The Best Natural Wonders

3 The Best Castles

visitor a glimpse into the life of its • Carrickfergus Castle (County

4 The Best of Ancient Ireland

magnificent barbaric monument of the scale and wonder of the

5 Remnants of the Golden Age:

challenging and unforgettable. See Countryside” under “Sligo &

6 The Best Literary Spots

• County Sligo: It seems at times Lough Gill, Glencar Lake, Ben

7 The Best Gardens

8 The Best Family Resources

9 The Best Active Vacations

Outdoor Pursuits” sections in Treks include roundtrip trans-

10 The Best Luxury Accommodations

11 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations

down, cementing it as one of the located on the road between New-

12 The Best Restaurants

the middle of Ballycotton, an • The Corncrake (County Done-

13 The Best Pubs

was hanged not far from here this centuries-old thatched-cot-

14 The Best Websites

theme nights. And there are well- • Newshound (www.nuzhound.

1 The Lay of the Land

Technically speaking, Ireland has are open to the public: Connemara