Evaluation of Egyptian Camel Hides For Leathers Manufacturing
Evaluation of Egyptian Camel Hides For Leathers Manufacturing
Evaluation of Egyptian Camel Hides For Leathers Manufacturing
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A.I. Nasr
Department of Wool Production and Technology, Desert Research Center, Cairo, Egypt
Abstract: The efficiency of using different tanning and finishing methods for manufacturing of Egyptian camel
leather has been evaluated. Three different tanning methods (chrome, vegetable and combined) were used to
tan pelts according to its grade. Four different finished leather articles (nappa, nubuck, corrected grain and
suede) were produced from chrome tanned leathers to improve their appearance. The results of both physical
and chemical properties illustrated that the combined tanning method produced the highest leather quality
followed by chrome and vegetable tanning, respectively. Furthermore, the nappa leathers had the highest
quality followed by nubuck, suede and corrected grain, respectively. Additionally, the produced leather articles
showed no visual defects in grain side. These results clarify the ability of using Egyptian camel leathers for
manufacturing of garments, shoe upper, upholstery, lining and sole manufacturing.
Corresponding Author: A.I. Nasr, Department of Wool Production and Technology, Desert Research Center, Cairo, Egypt.
E-mail: [email protected].
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others caused by diseases or parasites. Pelts contained Corrected grain pigmented leather was taken from
defects less than 15% from total surface area classified as grade (II). The grain surface was strong abraded to
grade I. Pelts contained 15-25% defects classified as grade remove imperfections before the surface coating is
II, while grade III contained pelts with defects more than applied. A decorative waterproofed grain pattern was
25%. Fig. 1 shows schematic diagram for work plan. then embossed into the surface.
Three different tanning methods were used to produce Suede leather was taken from grade (III). The grain
leathers as follows: surface had many imperfections. So, the flesh side
was fine buffed to create a distinctive nap.
Vegetable leathers: tanned with 20% mixture of
quebracho and mimosa extracts powder and Samples for various physical and chemical tests
fatliquored with 8% fatliquor. from all leathers were obtained as per ASTM
Chrome leathers: tanned with 10% chromium (III) methods [10]. Specimens were conditioned at 20°C±2°C
sulphate (33% basicity) and fatliquored with 10% and 65% ± 4% RH. over a period of 48 hrs. Physical
fatliquor. properties such as tensile strength, percentage
Combined leathers: tanned with 8% chromium (III) elongation at break, split tear strength, static water
sulphate (33% basicity) then re-tanned with 10% absorption; shrinkage temperature and flexibility were
mixture of quebracho and mimosa extracts powder measured as per standard procedures. Each value
and fatliquored with 10% fatliquor. reported is an average of four samples (2 values
along the backbone and 2 values across the back
According to finishing method, six finished articles bone). Chemical properties such as % moisture, total
were produced (five leathers in each article) as follows: ash content, % chromic oxide, % oils and fats, pH
and degree of tannage have been carried out for
Full grain leather (Nappa): was taken from grade (I) control and experimental leathers according to standard
without making any mechanical modifications in procedures.
surface characteristics. Thus, it included the three Data were analyzed using GLM procedure of SAS
different tanning methods. [11] to evaluate the differences among produced leathers
Nubuck leather: was taken from grade (II). The grain with different tanning or finishing methods. Significant
surface was lightly buffed to create a velvety finish differences were detected using the Duncan Multiple
or nap. Range Test.
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The fixed effect model used was Yij = + Ti + eij corresponding values 45.86%, 241.87 kg/cm2 and 50.89
kg/cm, respectively. On the other hand, combined tanned
where, leathers resulted in physical properties with values
Yij = The observation taken on leather (j), 84.57%, 357.24 kg/cm2 and 69.60 kg/cm, respectively.
= Overall mean, This trend was expected in accordance with other
Ti = a fixed effect of the (i) tanning methods (i=3 investigators [12-15], who found the same trends in
vegetable, chrome and combined tanned leathers) or leathers produced from another animal species. Covington
finishing methods (i=4 nappa, corrected grain, nubuck and [16] explained that chrome tanning depending on making
suede leathers), short, rigid and non- labile cross-links with carboxyl
eij = Random error assumed to be normally distributed groups in collagen fibers, while in vegetable tanning the
with mean = 0 and variance = ó2e. cross-links is weaker and more labile with amino groups in
collagen fibers. Thus, combined tanning method in this
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS study produced the highest quality leathers because it
combined both advantages of chrome and vegetable
Results of physical and chemical properties tanning methods. The effect of using this method is
measured on leathers tanned with three tanning methods also extended to elongation results. In this regard,
are displayed in Table 1. fibers elasticity may be affected by quantity of
fatliquors added in finishing step. Thus, vegetable
Tanning Material Effect tanned leathers were the lower in fat percentage the
Physical Properties: The results showed that elongation lower in elongation value. Moreover, the shrinkage
(24.43%), tensile (215.68 kg/cm2) and split tear (28.75 temperature was the lowest value (72°C) in vegetable
kg/cm) values were the lowest values in vegetable tanned tanned leathers than other leathers (100°C) which
leathers followed by those tanned with chrome with tanned with chrome or combined tanning methods.
Table 1: Least squares means and SEM of camel leather properties tanned with different tanning methods.
Physical properties
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chemical properties
Water Absorption (%) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tensile Elongation Split Tear ------------------------- Moisture Ash Cr oxide Fat Tanning
Method N (kg/cm2) (%) (kg/cm) 2 hrs 24 hrs (%) (%) (%) (%) pH Degree (%)
Vegetable 5 215.68 b 24.43 c 28.75 b 127.79 129.45 14.02 0.86 b 0.00 c 5.77 b 5.02 58.83 a
Chrome 20 241.87 b
45.86 b
50.89 ab
134.14 137.07 14.21 4.40 a
3.27 a
9.12 a
4.62 0.00 c
Combined 5 357.24 a 84.57 a 69.60 a 138.97 141.37 14.00 4.14 a 2.32 b 9.28 a 4.56 39.42 a
SEM 11.76 3.70 4.18 2.25 2.33 0.20 0.25 0.23 0.31 0.10 4.44
Significant ** ** * NS NS NS ** ** ** NS **
* Significant at P<0.05
** Significant at P<0.01
NS: Not Significant
a, b, c in the same column means with different superscripts are significantly different (P<0.05).
Table 2: Least squares means and SEM of camel leathers properties finished with different methods.
Physical properties
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chemical properties
Water Absorption (%) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tensile Elongation Split Tear ------------------------------------ Moisture Ash Cr oxide Fat
Method N (kg/cm2) (%) (kg/cm) 2 hrs 24 hrs (%) (%) (%) (%) pH
Nappa 5 285.35 a 29.36 c 86.08 a 135.35 b 137.98 b 14.22 4.10 3.32 8.16 4.68
Nubuck 5 269.63 a 47.45 b 35.38 b 151.43 a 154.67 a 14.62 4.58 3.28 9.48 4.50
Corrected 5 174.03 c
51.12 ab
47.59 b
114.52 c
117.90 c 13.86 4.52 3.14 9.58 4.66
Suede 5 238.48 b 55.51 a 34.52 b 135.27 b 137.73 b 14.14 4.40 3.36 9.26 4.62
SEM 10.80 2.44 5.33 3.17 3.26 0.28 0.08 0.05 0.24 0.06
Significant ** ** ** ** ** NS NS NS NS NS
** Significant at P<0.01
NS: Not Significant
a, b, c in the same column means with different superscripts are significantly different (P<0.05).
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These results were in agreement with BASF [6], who On the other hand, nubuck leathers showed higher quality
illustrated that shrinkage temperature of chrome tanned (P<0.01) than both suede and corrected grain leathers
leathers is 100 °C while shrinkage temperature in because they were lightly buffed at grain side.
vegetable tanned leathers ranged from 70-85°C. This Although suede leathers are expected to be of lower
could be due to that the generated cross-links are quality than corrected grain leathers, the opposite result
stronger in chrome tanned leathers than in vegetable was observed. Removing the upper leather layer by hard
tanned leathers. Meanwhile, all tanned leathers were abrasion in corrected grain leathers might be the reason
resistant for flexibility test until thirty thousand flexures for weakness in strengths values unlike suede leathers
without any cracks. which were light buffed from flesh side. Static water
absorption test after 2 and 24 hours were also affected by
Chemical Properties: The results showed that total ash, buffing, abrasion or other mechanical changes in grain
chrome oxide, fat percentages and tanning degree were side which was reflected clearly in corrected and nubuck
affected (P<0.01) among all tanned leathers. Total ash leathers. Although coating grain side with decorative
content recorded the lowest value with vegetable tanning waterproofed grain, which might be the reason for
method (0.86 %) compared to both chrome (3.58%) and lowering water absorption value in corrected grain
combined (3.32%) tanning methods. This may be due to leathers, however buffing grain side might be the reason
the absence of chromium salts in ash [6]. For reasons for the high water absorption value in nubuck leathers.
related to manufacturing properties, vegetable tanned Additionally, flexibility for all finished leathers was done
leathers should be more toughness and less flexible than until thirty thousand flexures and no cracks were shown
other leather types. Thus, fatliquors were added in at all four groups.
fatliquoring step with percentages 8, 10 and 10% for To date, no previous research explained the
vegetable, chrome and combined tanned leathers which differences in physical properties between different types
reflected in fat percentage values in finished leathers to be of finished camel leathers. However, some investigators
5.77, 9.12 and 9.28%, respectively. In the meantime, discussed properties of camel leathers tanned with
tanning degree is a property for leathers tanned with chromium salts. Hekal [9] determined tensile strength,
vegetable materials and not applied in nonorganic elongation and split tear strength and found it 390.07
tanned leathers such as chrome tanned leathers [10]. kg/cm2, 83.84% and 68.14 kg/cm for Maghrabi camel
Thus, tanning degree values were higher in vegetable leathers and 322.23 kg/cm2, 84.86% and 70.57 kg/cm for
tanned leathers than combined tanned leathers due to Sudan camel leathers respectively. These values were
amount of vegetable extract added in tanning which was higher than those obtained in the presented study.
20% with vegetable tanned leathers as a main tanning Furthermore, Azzam and Abdelsalam [8] reported that
agent and 10% with combined tanned leather as a tensile strength and elongation determined in finished
re-tanning agent. On the other hand, moisture leathers ranged from 107.5 to 202.9 kg/cm2 and from 17 to
percentage and pH values were insignificant 28.9% in dromedaries fed on different desert plants.
differed among all leathers and in accordance with These values tend to be lower than those obtained in the
BASF [6] limitation values for leathers uses in various presented study. On the other hand, other investigators
manufacturing purposes. [5, 8, 17] measured tensile strength and elongation on
dromedary camel leathers and their result values were
Finishing Method Effect: The results presented in within range by those obtained in the presented study.
Table 2 demonstrate the physical and chemical properties
measured in chrome tanned leathers, which finished with Chemical Properties: The results clarified that all finished
four different methods. leathers were similar in chemical properties due to the
similarity of tanning method with chromium salt. By
Physical Properties: Results of physical properties comparing physical and chemical properties of camel
showed that buffing or abrasion operation in finishing leathers obtained from this study with BASF [6]
steps negatively affected (P<0.01) at the quality of limitation range, it can be concluded that Egyptian camel
finished leathers especially strengths values. Thus, leathers can be used in wide different uses e.g. garment,
nappa leathers were the highest strengths values the gloves, chamois, lining, upholstery, sole and shoe upper
highest quality which were not mechanical abraded. leathers.
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