Yarn Linear Density

Definition of Yarn Count:

Yarn number or count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness.
It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile
institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per
unit mass of yarn.”

Types of Yarn Count:

Basically, there are mainly two ways of yarn count systems:

1. Direct count system (mass per unit length)

2. Indirect count System ( length per unit mass )

Direct count system:

In a direct yarn counting system, the yarn number or count is the weight of a unit length
of yarn. This means the higher the yarn count number, the heavier or thicker the yarn. It
is fixed length system. This system is used to express the count of man-made fiber, jute,
silk etc.
𝑊∗𝑙
Direct Count, N =
𝑤∗𝐿

Where,
N = The yarn number or count
W = The weight of the sample
w = The unit weight of the sample
L = The length of the sample
l = The unit length of the sample

Tex, Denier, Pounds per spindle etc. are examples of direct count system.

Tex: The yarn number or count in the Tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1
km of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 Tex means that there are 30 grams of yarn per 1000 m or 1
km of that yarn (mass per length). In other words, yarn count 30 Tex means 1000 m of
that yarn will weigh 30 gm.

Denier: The count of yarn in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9 km
of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 Denier means that there are 30 grams of yarn per 9000 m or 9
km of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 Denier means that 9000 m of that yarn will
weigh 30 gm.

Pound per Spindle: The yarn count in pounds per spindle is the weight in pounds of
14,400 yards of yarn. Jute count is expressed by this system

For example, yarn count 20 Pound per Spyndle means that there are 20 lbs of yarn per
14400 yards of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 20 Pounds per Spyndle means that
14400 yards of that yarn will weigh 20 lbs.
DeciTex (dTex):The yarn number or count in deciTex system is the weight in grams of
10,000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 deciTex means that there are 30 grams of yarn per 10,000 m
or 10 km of that yarn (mass per length). In other words, yarn count 30 dTex means
10,000 m of that yarn will weigh 30 gm.

MiliTex (mTex): The yarn number or count in miliTex system is the weight in
milligrams of 1000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 miliTex means that there are 30 milligrams of yarn per 1000
m or 1 km of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 mTex means that 1000 m of that
yarn will weigh 30 milligrams.

kiloTex (kTex): The yarn number or count in kiloTex system is the weight in kilograms
of 1000 m of yarn.

For example, yarn count 30 kiloTex means that there are 30 kilograms of yarn per 1000
m or 1 km of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 kTex means 1000 m of that yarn
will weigh 30 kilograms.

Indirect count system:

In an indirect yarn counting system, the yarn number or count is the number of “units of
length” per “unit of weight” of yarn. This means the higher the yarn number, the finer or
thinner the yarn. It is based on the fixed weight system. This system is used for express
the count of natural fiber.

𝑤∗𝐿
Indirect Count, N =
𝑊∗𝑙

Some of the most commonly used indirect systems include:

English/cotton count (Ne) system

Metric count (Nm) system

Worsted count system

Woollen count system etc.

English Count: It is defined as the number of hanks (840 yards) per pounds. It is denoted
by Ne.

For example, yarn count 30 Ne means that there are 30 hanks (each hank consisting of
840 yards of yarn) per 1 lb or 1 pound of that yarn (length per mass). In other words, if a
yarn has a count of 30 Ne, it means that 30 hanks (of 840 yards) of that yarn will weigh 1
pound.

Metric Count: It is defined as the number of hanks (1000 m) per kg. It is defined by Nm.

For example, yarn count 30 Nm means that there are 30 hanks of 1000 m per 1 kilogram
(kg) of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 Nm means 30 hanks (each hank
consisting of 1000m) of that yarn will weigh 1 kg.

Worsted Count: It is defined as the number of hanks (560 yards) per pounds.

For example, yarn count 30 NeK means that there are 30 hanks of 560 yards per one
pound (1 lb) of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 NeK means 30 hanks (each hank
consisting of 560 yards) of that yarn will weigh 1lb.

WoollenCount:In this system, yarn count is defined as the number of hanks of 256 yards
per pound.

For example, woollen yarn count 30 means that there are 30 hanks (of 256 yards) per 1
lb or 1 pound of that yarn. In other words, yarn count 30 means 30 hanks (each hank
consisting of 256 yards) of that yarn will weigh 1 pound.
Relationship between English count and yarn diameter:

1
Show that, d =
28√𝑁𝑒

For English count system,

l = (840*Ne) yds/lb

= (840*Ne*0.9144) m/lb

= (840*Ne*0.9144*100) cm/lb

= (840*Ne*0.9144*100*2.2046) cm/kg

840∗𝑁𝑒∗0.9144∗100∗2.2046
=( ) cm/g
1000

= 169.33 Ne cm/g

Now, yarn volume,

Vy = π*R2*l

π
= *d2*169.33*Ne cm2
4

4𝑉𝑦 𝑉𝑦

d2 = cm2 = 0.00752* cm2 ………(1)
π∗169.33 Ne 𝑁𝑒

𝑉𝑓 𝜌𝑦
Packing factor, ɸ = =
𝑉𝑦 𝜌𝑓

Vf= Volume of fiber in yarn

Vy= Volume of yarn

ρf = Density of fiber

ρy= Density of yarn

 1
Vy =
ɸ𝜌𝑓

For cotton ɸ = 0.6 and ρf = 1.52

So, Vy = 1.0965

0.00752
d2 = cm2
0.913∗𝑁𝑒

0.00285
d = √( ) cm
𝑁𝑒

1
d= inch (Showed)
28√𝑁𝑒

1000
= mils
28√𝑁𝑒

36
= mils
√𝑁𝑒

Count calculation for double yarn:

1 1 1
Indirect System: = +
𝑁 𝑁1 𝑁2

Direct System: N = N1+N2

N = Resultant count; N1,N2= Constituent count

Example: A double yarn is produced from a 60s cotton yarn, find out the resultant
count.

1 1 1
Solution: = +
𝑁 𝑁1 𝑁2

1 1 1
 = +
𝑁 60 60
1 2
 =
𝑁 60
So, N= 30s
Conversion of count from one count to another:

i) Indirect to indirect
ii) Indirect to direct
iii) Direct to indirect
iv) Direct to direct

Indirect to indirect:

𝐿𝑘/𝐿𝑟
Nr = N k x
𝑊𝑘/𝑊𝑟

Nr= Count of required system

Nk= Count of known system

Lk= Unit length of known system

Lr= Unit length of required system

Wk= Unit weight of known system

Wr= Unit weight of required system

Direct to direct:

𝑊𝑘/𝑊𝑟
Nr = N k x
𝐿𝑘/𝐿𝑟

Indirect to direct:

1 𝑊𝑘/𝑊𝑟
Nr = x
𝑁𝑘 𝐿𝑘/𝐿𝑟
Direct to indirect:

1 𝐿𝑘/𝐿𝑟
Nr = x
𝑁𝑘 𝑊𝑘/𝑊𝑟

Example: Convert English count to Denier.

1 𝑊𝑘/𝑊𝑟
Nr = x
𝑁𝑘 𝐿𝑘/𝐿𝑟

Given that,

Wk = 1 lb = 453.6 g

Wr = 1 g

Lk = 840 yds = 840*0.9144 m

Lr = 9000

1 𝑊𝑘/𝑊𝑟
Denier = x
𝑁𝑒 𝐿𝑘/𝐿𝑟

5315
=
𝑁𝑒

Self study: Conversion

Ne to Nm, Tex, dTex and vice versa.

Conversion of count from one count to another

1. Denier to cotton(English):

English cotton count = 5315/Yarn count in denier system

2. Denier to Tex:

Tex count = Count in denier system/9

 3. English to Tex:

Tex count = 590.5/English count

4. English to denier:

Denier count = 5315/English count

5. Cotton to metric:

Metric count = English cotton count X 1693

6. Tex to denier:

Denier = Tex X 9

Mathematical Problems and Solution of Yarn Count

1. Find out the cotton count if weight of 8400 yds yarn is 1 lb.

Solution:
We know,
𝑤∗𝐿
English cotton count, Ne =
𝑊∗𝑙

Here, w=1lb, L=8400 yds, W=1lb, l=840 yds

1∗8400
So, Ne = = 10 (Ans)
1∗840

2. If 120 yds cotton yarn having 25 grain weight then what will be the count?

Solution:
We know,
𝑤∗𝐿
English cotton count, Ne =
𝑊∗𝑙

Here, w=1lb, L=120 yds, W=25gr= 25/7000 lb, l=840 yds

1∗120
So, Ne = = 40 (Ans).
25/7000∗840
3. Find out the metric count if weight of 400m yarn is 40gm.

Solution:
We know,
𝑤∗𝐿
Metric count, Nm =
𝑊∗𝑙

Here, w=1kg, L=400 m, W=40 gm= 0.04 kg, l=1000m

1∗400
So, Nm = = 10 (Ans)
0.04∗1000

4. Find out the worsted count if the weight of 80 yds is 50 grain.

Solution:
We know,
𝑤∗𝐿
Worsted count =
𝑊∗𝑙

Here, w=1lb, L=80 yds, W=50gr= 50/7000 lb, l=560 yds

1∗80
So, Ne = = 20 (Ans).
50/7000∗560

5. A trading corporation provides you a 24.3 Ne yarn, Find out the Tex and denier of that
yarn.

Solution:
Given,
Wk = 1 lb = 453.6 gm
Wr = 1 gm
Lk = 840 yds = 840 X 0.9144 m
Lr = 1000 m

We know,
1 453.6/1
Nr = x
24.3 840∗0.9144/1000

= 24.3 Tex (Ans).

Again,
We know Denier = 9 x Tex

= 9 X 24.3 Tex = 218.7 Denier (Ans).

6. If a skein of 100 m of filament Viscose Yarn weight is 1.67 g, calculate its count in
Denier.

Solution:

In the Denier system the weight unit is gram and the unit of length is 9000m.

Thus, W=1.67 g, L=100 m, and l = 9000 m

So the yarn count is 150.3 D (Ans)

Measurement of average count:

Yarn Count Production of yarn (wt)

40s 3000 lb

50s 1500 lb

30s 2000 lb

Calculate average count.

Solution:

Total production of yarn, x = 3000+1500+2000= 6500

Hank of 1st yarn =40*3000 =120000

Hank of 2nd yarn =50*1500 =75000

Hank of 3rd yarn =30*2000 =60000

Total Hank, y =255000

So, Average count= y/x= 255000/6500= 39.23s (Ans)

Measurement of Yarn Count:

1. Wrap Reel and Balance method
2. Beesley Balance
3. Knowles Balance
4. Quadrant Balance
5. Count data system
6. Measuring Drum for Sliver And Roving count
Wrap Reel and Balance method
Equipment’s:
1. Electronic/Manual wrap reel machine
2. Analytical balance
Specimen: cotton yarns in hank from.
Wrap Reel: A wrap reel is a device for measuring yarn and making it into lea of a
standard size. The reel is of a standard size and its revolutions are counted as the yarn is
wrapped around it.

Working Procedure:
𝑤∗𝐿
We know, N =
𝑊∗𝑙
1. At first warp reel is adjusted accordingly and yarn is passed from the cone through the
guides.
2. The length of the sample is measured by the warp reel counter.
3. In case of cotton the circumference of warp reel is 1yds and required yarn is 120yds
(1lea of cotton=120yds) again in case of jute warp reel circumference is 2.5yds and
required yarn is 300yds.
4. The sample is weighted by electric balance.
5. Weight is converted from gram to pound.
6. Count is calculated from the equation.
7. The operation is repeated 12 to 16 times and their mean count is calculated.

Beesleys Balance
Required Instrument:
Template
Beesleys Balance
Knife
Marking pen
Needle
Template: Template is a length criterion instrument which contains 8 arms.
Some length used to measure count:
 Cotton : 4.32 Inch
 ½ cotton wool :2.16 Inch
 Linen :1.543 Inch
 Wool :1.315 Inch
 Worsted :2.88 Inch
Beesleys Balance: Beesleys balance consists of a pillar A which carries a cross beam B,
attached at knife border at the dot G. At one end of the cross beam there is a claw E upon
which the yarn to test is placed. The other half of the beam tappers to a dot C. When the
beam is inward balance, the pointer volition coincide amongst the detum line of piece of
job .The pillar is mounted on the base. The whole instrument is leveled before with a
leveled screw at the base. The cross has a minor notch at the dot D to lead maintain the
counter weight or passenger

Procedure:
 Collect sample using appropriate sampling method.
 This sample conditioning at testing atmosphere.
 Cut that’s sample using knife according to the marking of template.
 The pointer is laid straight contrary to the detum line, amongst no stuff as well as
counter weight inward their proper places, before adjusting the leveling screw.
 The counter weight for the item length which is supplied amongst the instrument
is chosen as well as suspended at the notch D. (For amount cotton wool the large
passenger is placed inward the notch as well as for ½ cotton wool minor passenger
is placed)
 Now yarn is withdrawn from sample as well as placed sample claw until the
pointer comes inward grade amongst the detum line.
 At that phase the threads are taken out as well as counted which givers straight the
count of yarn taken for testing.
 For example, if there thirty threads inward the sample claw at the balanced status
thus the count of the yarn is 30s
Knowles balance:
 To cut out the arithmetic required when the weights of the skeins of yarn are
obtained on an analytical balance, special direct reading balances can be used, the
Knowles balance being one example.
  A beam balance is used, behind which a separate rod of hexagonal section with
five of the faces is lettered from A to E and engraved with a count scale to cover a
certain range.

 In the left-hand pan a lettered weight is placed and on the beam a small lettered
rider. Suppose a cotton yarn is to be tested and is judged to be about 36s. Face B
of the scale is turned to the front, weight B is placed in the left-hand pan, and rider
B put on the beam.
 The position of the rider is then adjusted until the beam is balanced and the count
read off directly from the scale, the value taken opposite a line in the middle of the
rider.
 The Knowles balance can, of course, be designed to suit count systems other than
that of cotton.
Quadrant balance:
 The quadrant balance is another type of direct reading instrument.
 A given length is measured out and suspended from the hook, the count is then
read directly from the quadrant scale.
  The versatility of this type of balance is improved by engraving the scale with
more than one series of values. For example, one scale may read from 0.1 to 1.0 to
give the hank of a 4 yd sample of sliver, a second scale may read from 01 to 6.0
for 20 yd samples of rovings, and the third scale from 4s to 80s for 840 yd samples
of yarn.
 The scales just mentioned are in the cotton count system, but other quadrant
balances are available for different ranges and different systems.
Count Data System: Self Study
Consists of an electronic balance with internal and external custom software which
calculates yarn, sliver and roving counts as well as fabric yield in various systems and
provides statistics on any number of tests including totals, average, CV and SD.
Measuring Drum for Sliver and Roving count: Self Study
Same as wrap reel and balance method