Chapter (1) Engine Removal,

Disassembly, Inspection, and In-

Chassis Repairs.
1) The following steps to remove the engine:
a) Parts that removed from the upper side of the vehicle.
1. Remove the air cleaner and label all
wires and vacuum lines. The air cleaner on a
typical port fuel injected engine is located off to the side
and is connected to the fuel system by a molded hose
(Figure 1.1). These hoses can become fragile with age
and can be expensive to replace. A broken hose can
cause drivability complaints on some types of fuel
injection and can allow dirty air to enter the engine on Figure 1.1
all systems. If possible, leave the wires connected to the
alternator; simply unbolt it and use wire to fasten it to
something out of the way. Use masking tape to label any
electrical wiring that must be disconnected. Taking the
time to do this will save the time that would be wasted
in trying to determine the proper locations for the wires
during reassembly. Later model vehicles usually have Figure 1.2
some of the hoses grouped together with male and
female connectors on the ends to make proper hose
connection easier. Sometimes the hoses are numbered,
color coded, or different sizes. There are several
methods used to keep hoses identified so they can be
reattached in the correct position. Rolls of numbered
tape are available from automotive tool and parts
suppliers (Figure 1.2). Affix two pieces of tape with the
same number, one on the hose and the other on the Figure 1.3
connection where the hose was removed (Figure 1.3).
Some technicians keep several narrow rolls of different
color tape for labeling unmarked hoses in this same
manner. Late-model vehicles have a vacuum diagram
under-hood label (Figure 1.4). When there is none, draw
a map of the vacuum hoses. Assign a number to each
hose on the map. Then use masking tape and a pen to
number each line as it is removed.
Figure 1.4
2. Drain coolant and oil. Drain all coolant
from the radiator and block. If the coolant is not to be
reused, be sure to comply with local regulations for its
disposal. If the block is equipped with a coolant drain
plug (Figure 1.5), the engine block should also be
drained. Drain engine oil and remove the oil filter. The
oil filter is made of thin sheet metal that is easily
crushed or torn if the filter wrench is not held as close
to the filter base as possible.
3. Remove the hood. The hood should be Figure 1.5
removed before removing the engine. Mark the
location of the hood to the hood hinges so that it can
be properly reinstalled. The hood can be temporarily
stored upside down on the roof of the car (Figure 1.6).
Be careful not to damage the paint. Do not stand the
hood on end. This can damage paint on the corners or
edges of the hood. Set the hood on a fender cover or
cardboard. Hood hinges may be pried down to get
them out of the way if the hood is not to be reinstalled
right away. Figure 1.6

4. Remove the radiator. Disconnect the

radiator hoses from the engine. They can be left
attached to the radiator, so they do not need to be
marked for reassembly. Remove the radiator from the
car. It can be stored with its hoses installed and the
radiator cap installed.
5. Remove the distributor and spark
plug cables. Some engines have distributors. It is Figure 1.7
a good idea to remove the distributor and spark plug
wiring before removing the engine to prevent damage
caused by interference with the lifting sling. Do not
remove the spark plug cables from the distributor cap.
They are already in the correct fi ring order and need
not be disturbed. Mark the location of the number 1
spark plug cable on the distributor cap before
removing any of the other cables. If the cables are to
be replaced, replace them one at a time so they can be
measured easily and kept in order.
(a) The crossbar was removed to allow room for engine
removal. (b) The van was stored in an outdoor parking
area. Wind during the night tossed the hood against the
windshield.
6. Remove the alternator and
accessory wiring. First, remove the
alternator. If possible, leave the wires connected
to the alternator; simply unbolt it and use wire to
fasten it to something out of the way. Use
masking tape to label any electrical wiring that
must be disconnected. Taking the time to do this
will save the time that would be wasted in trying
to determine the correct location of wires during
reassembly. Many of today’s engines do not have
belt- driven cooling fans or air pumps for the
emission control system. To prevent damage to Figure 1.8
these items if an engine is so equipped, they
should be removed, along with the alternator,
before attempting to remove the engine (Figure
1.8) .
7. Remove the heater hoses and
ground strap. The heater has a control
valve in one of the heater hoses. Label the hose
that comes from the coolant pump so it can be
reattached there later. There are usually one or
more ground straps from the engine to the fi re Figure 1.9
wall (Figure 1.9). Be sure to disconnect it before
the engine is removed.
8. Remove switches and sensors.
Newer engines have coolant temperature sensors
that supply the PCM with information on engine
coolant temperature. In response to this input,
the PCM commands electrical devices, called
actuators, to switch emission control devices on
as engine temperature rises. Engines with
distributor less ignitions have crankshaft position
sensors. Sometimes they have camshaft sensors,
too. Carefully remove them and store them Figure 1.10
where they will not be damaged. Figure 1.10
shows one of these sensors. Late-model engines
also have detonation sensors, also called knock
sensors. Remove this if it is easily accessible to
prevent breaking it during engine removal.
9. Bleed fuel system pressure. Fuel
injection systems are designed to remain
pressurized after the engine is shut off so that the
engine can start quickly. Also, when fuel in the
lines is kept under pressure, it is less likely to boil
as it soaks up heat when the engine is shut off. If
one of the clamps on the system is loosened,
pressurized fuel can escape. Bleed pressure from
the system before working on it. After fuel system
pressure has been bled, the fuel injectors can be
removed.
Note:
There are several methods that can be used to
relieve pressure from the fuel system. Check the
manufacturer’s manual for the recommended
procedure. A very simple procedure for bleeding
pressure from the fuel system is as follows: Figure 1.11
• Disconnect the electrical connector to the fuel
pump or remove the fuel pump relay or fuse.
• Crank the engine briefly to drop the fuel
pressure or run the engine until it stalls. Another
pressure bleeding procedure is to:
• Disconnect the battery ground cable.
• Remove the filler cap from the fuel tank.
• Some systems have a Schrader valve that can be
used to bleed off pressure from the system before
disassembly. (A Schrader valve is the kind that is
found on tire valve stems.) Remove the threaded
cap from the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail
to find the Schrader valve.
• Use a special hose that has a pressure relieving
tool on the fuel rail end to drain fuel to a gas can
(Figure 1.11).
10. Remove and plug the fuel line. The fuel line
from the tank must be disconnected. After fuel
system pressure has been bled, the fuel injectors
can be removed. Figure 1.12

Disconnect and plug the fuel line. (a) A fuel

hose plugged with a bolt and hose clamp. (b)
A fuel line closed off with pinch pliers
11. Remove the intake manifold and valve covers. When
engine work (such as a valve job) is performed on an engine while it is in the car, the
fl at rate technician will try to remove as few parts as possible in order to save time.
During a complete overhaul, the engine will be completely disassembled for
cleaning. Remove the throttle linkage or cable. Then remove the valve covers and
motor mount bolts. Injectors, sensor wires, and harnesses must be disconnected.
Before the engine is removed from the car, the intake manifold can also be removed.

b) Parts that removed from the lower side of the vehicle.

12. Mark accessory brackets and

remove accessories. Any accessory
brackets (such as for air conditioning) that are
attached to the head or block may be removed.
If the vehicle has many accessories, label the
brackets to show their locations on the head or
block. Because of the unusual lengths of many
accessory bracket bolts, it is a good idea to put
them in labeled bags for easier reassembly. An
air-conditioning compressor bolt that is too
Wire the air-conditioning compressor out of the way
long can damage an expensive compressor with both refrigerant lines still attached.
housing. When there are bolts of different
Figure 1.13
lengths, it saves time to assemble each one
back into its accessory bracket as it is removed.
Note
The air-conditioning compressor can usually be
wired up out of the way with the lines still
attached (Figure 4.13). When air-conditioning
lines must be disconnected, be sure to plug all
openings immediately. Moisture must not be
allowed to enter the system. It is illegal to allow
refrigerant to escape into the atmosphere. If
refrigerant must be removed, a recycling
machine is required (Figure 4.14).

An air-conditioning charging and recycling

machine .

Figure 1.14
13. Remove exhaust
components. Because of rust, exhaust
manifold and exhaust pipe bolts will be difficult
to remove and have a tendency to break. Spray
penetrating oil on them.
Since the 1980s, most cars have computer-
controlled fuel systems that use an oxygen
sensor to determine the proper air-fuel mixture
(Figure 1.16). Disconnect the wire to the
sensor; the sensor can be left in the exhaust Figure 1.15
manifold. Oxygen sensors can be expensive.
Use an oxygen sensor socket if it is to be Use an impact wrench to remove exhaust
manifold-to-pipe bolts
removed from the exhaust manifold
(Figure1.17) otherwise leave it in the manifold
and be very careful not to damage it.
14. Determine whether to
remove the transmission. Before
engine removal, locate the recommended
procedure in the service literature. On a rear-
wheel drive vehicle, it is generally easier to
leave an automatic transmission in the chassis
when removing the engine (Figure 1.18). Some
front-wheel drive engines are easiest removed
without removing the transmission as well.
Figure 1.16

Figure 1.18 Figure 1.17

Separating the Engine and
Transmission/Transaxle Although the
first set of instructions here apply to rear-
wheel drive vehicles specifically, the
following hints apply to separating the
engine from an automatic transmission or
transaxle on both front- and rear-wheel drive
vehicles. Make center punch marks on the
converter and the flex plate so they may be
correctly aligned on reassembly (Figure 1.19).
Remove the torque converter attaching bolts
from the flywheel flex plate (Figure 1.20a). Figure 1.19
Pry the torque converter away from the flex-
plate (Figure 1.21a). Do not remove the
converter from the transmission during
engine removal; if the converter remains in
place in the transmission, fluid will not be
able to pour out of it (Figure 1.21b).
Occasionally the converter hub is rusted to
the crankshaft, requiring considerable effort
to pry the two apart. Figure 1.22 shows the
pilot hole in the engine’s crankshaft. If the
transmission dipstick tube is attached to the
cylinder head, unbolt it.

Figure 1.20

Figure 1.22
Figure 1.21
Remove the engine-to-transmission bolts. On rear-
wheel drive vehicles, these bolts are easily loosened
by using a very long extension and a universal
socket from underneath the car (Figure 1.23).
Sometimes it is necessary to unbolt the rear
transmission cross member and allow the rear of
the transmission to drop. This gives the technician
easier access to the top engine-to-transmission
attaching bolts and also to the transmission cooler
Figure 1.23
lines located high on some transmissions. Figure
1.24 shows a C-clamp installed to keep the
converter in place in the pump in the front of the
transmission. If the converter slides too far forward,
it will come out of the transmission pump. It must
be realigned with the pump drive gear to prevent
damage to the pump and flex plate when the
engine is reinstalled. A rear-wheel drive
transmission must be sup- ported during and after
engine removal. It can be wired up so that it will not Figure 1.24
hang. When a torque converter is removed from an
automatic transmission or transaxle, quickly rotate
it upward so the transmission fluid does not empty
out and make a mess (Figure 1.25). A typical torque
converter can hold 3 or 4 quarts of transmission
fluid.
If the transmission is to be removed from a rear-
wheel drive vehicle, disconnect the shaft link- ages,
electrical wires, speedometer cable, and the drive
shaft. Tape the rear U-joint cups with masking tape Figure 1.25
so they will not accidentally fall off the U-joint
(Figure 1.26).
Plug the end of the transmission after removing the
drive shaft so the transmission fluid will not leak out
(Figure 1.27). Disconnect the speedometer cable or
wire from the transmission. It is a good idea to
replace the transmission front pump seal while the Figure 1.26
engine is out of the vehicle. Before removing the
transmission from a vehicle with a standard
transmission, the clutch activating fork and gearshift
linkages must be disconnected.

Figure 1.27
15. Unbolt the engine mounts
(Figure 1.28). Mark them with a center
punch or marker to show which side of the
mount is the front and which side is left or
right. In some vehicles, the engine can actually
be installed with the mounts reversed. The rear
transmission mount stretches until there is
Figure 1.28
metal-to-metal contact with the mount and the
frame. This causes engine vibration to be felt as
the vehicle is driven.
16. Remove the engine from the
vehicle. Attach a cable sling, a chain, or a
special lifting tool to the heads or block (Figure
1.29). Some engines are equipped with lifting
brackets (Figure 1.30).
Make sure the bolts are tightened all the way
up against the sling brackets or chain to protect
them from excessive stress that can break them
(Figure 1.31). Figure 1.29

Figure 1.30
Figure 1.31