PRESSING AND FINISHING

Pressing:

The process to remove unwanted crease & wrinkles & to produce crease in wanted/required area to give the
garment a smooth, lusturious & fine appearance is known as pressing.

Pressing is known as “Ironing”.

In technical sense, ‘pressing can be defined as a process which changes the geometric fibre structure of the
area being pressed by the controlled application of heat, steam &pressure’.

In this sense, removing a crease from a garment involves the same change of fibre lay as that required to open
a seam or to press a hem.

Pressing is a crucial process which imparts the final finish to a garment &present the garment attractively to
the buyer.

So we can say that,

 Pressing means ‘Shaping the materials’.

 Pressing is affected by the application of heat & pressure for a certain time.
 Steam, compressed air & suction can assist the process.
 Steam is an effective medium of heating & also delivers moisture which is required for setting.
 The setting effect is fixed by cooling which is happened by the suction or compressed air.

Objectives of Garment Pressing: 

The main object of pressing is to improve the outer appearance of the garments. However, the objects
of pressing include much more: 

 Removal of unwanted creases and wrinkles: During garments manufacturing, creasing occurs in

garments due to operator’s handling and for tying up garments tightly in boxes. To remove these
creases and unwanted wrinkles pressing is to be done.

 Hiding imperfections: Pressing can hide a multitude (huge number) of garment’s imperfections and
faults such as puckered seam and neps.

 To apply creases where necessary: Sometimes in garment we may need to apply some permanent
creases such as pleats in shirts and for that purpose we have to apply creases or folds by pressing.
Sometimes the pressing is done before sewing though after sewing it is also common.
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 Shaping: Dart and seam are used to make garments properly fit with the shape of human body. To
make these darts more attractive, pressing is applied which is known as shaping. The part of garment
may have to be shrunk or stretched for shaping.

 Under pressing: For sewing easily and properly pressing is done on some parts of garments before
sewing, which is called under pressing. Under pressing is done in manufacturing jackets, trousers,
coats, etc. They also require final pressing.

 Final pressing: The pressing which is done before packing the garments is known as final pressing. By
final pressing the garments become glossy (silky). 

Classification of Pressing:

The total process of pressing can be divided into two groups of operations-

1. Under pressing.

2. Top/Final/OFF pressing.

Under pressing:

For the precise opportunity of sewing the garments easily & firmly, the pressing is done on the garment parts
during assembling is known as under pressing.

So we can say that,

 Operations performed on garment parts during making up.

 Required to improve the accuracy of sewing.
 Flattening of edge (Like pocketcorners) before joining.
 Also required before collar & cuff joining.

Top/Final/OFF pressing:

 Final operation performed on fully assembled garments.

 Has great impact on the final product & its acceptance to the final buyer.

Objects of Pressing:

1. Removal of unwanted crease/wrinkles:

During garments making, crease may occur in garments for different reasons, but these crease are not desired.
Crease/wrinkle may be found in garments after washing & drying. To remove these unwanted creases &
wrinkles pressing is done.
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2. To apply crease where necessary:

Sometimes crease is necessary in the garments to increase the beauty. Crease is required before & after sewing
also . Pressing is done in the desired place/ area of the garments for required crease.

3. Shaping:

Dart & seam are used to make garments properly fit with the shape of human body. To make these darts more
attractive pressing is done & Called shaping. The part of garment may have to be shrunk or stretched for
shaping.

For shaping, pressing machine with special bed is used.

Categories of pressing:

1. No-pressing:

Under wear, swim wear etc. These garments are generally from knit fabrics.

2. Minimum pressing:

Only heat, nopressure.

Night gowns, T-shirts, Leisure wear etc. Just steam is applied & then dried by hot air.

3. Under pressing:

 Operations performed on garment parts during making up.

 Required to improve the accuracy of sewing.
 Flattening of edge (Like, pocket, corners) before joining.
 Also required before collar & cuff joining.

4. Top/Final/Off pressing:

 Final operation performed on fully assembled garments.

 Has great impact on the final product & its acceptance to the final buyer.

5. Permanent pressing:

Special type of pressing by which shape or special condition/crease of any garments like pleat, crinkles etc. are
made permanent, which can withstand number of washing. Higher heat, steam & pressure are applied.
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Component s of pressing:

Steam Pressure Drying

Time
Steam:

 The purpose of using pressurized steam is to relax the fiber structure of the fabric & make it pliable
enough to be moulded by manipulation & pressure.
 Steam itself is an odorless, invisible gas consisting of vaporized water.
 In factories, steam is generated by boilers fired by electricity or fossil fuels such as coal, gas or oil.
 Depending on the number of pressing work stations in the factory, steam can be distributed from a
central boiler room or by small boilers located close to the work stations.

Steam is a flexible, adaptable & efficient component of pressing. Some of its outstanding features are-

 It has very high heat content.

 Its heat is generated at a constant temperature.
 It can be easily distributed & controlled.
 Water is relatively cheap & plentiful.

Steam has been used throughout the centuries for pressing & it is still the best medium for this purpose.
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Pressure:

After steaming, manual or mechanical pressure is used to change the geometric fibre lay of the area being
pressed.

Drying:

Following the applications of steam & pressure, the area which has undergone these processes has to be dried
& cooled in order that the fabric can revert to its natural moisture content & stable condition. The drying
process is usually performed by a central vacuum pump which is connected to the pressing units or by pumps
built into the machine itself. The vacuum action removes the residual moisture from the material while it is
laying on the pressing area.

Time:

The length of time to which a component or garment is subjected to steaming, pressure & drying is a
combined function of steam temperature, garments construction & the physical properties of the fabric being
pressed. Whilst there are no fixed rules for the duration of these components, experience is a good teacher.

Pressing equipment & methods:

Different types of pressing machine are used for different types of pressing.

1. Iron/hand iron

2. Steam press.

3. Steam air finish

4. Steam tunnel.
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1. Iron/Hand iron:

Hand irons are produced in a variety of shapes & weights to suit specific types of operations. Shape of sole
plate:-

Crescent Oblong StubNarrow

Figure: Sole plate shapes

The forms of irons:

Traditional iron:

Heated by burning coal or wood inside the iron made case.

Electric iron:

Heated by electric coil and regulator is used to control temperature.

Steam iron:
 Steam is supplied either from the main large or small boiler through pipe & steam supply controlled by
a switch.
 Triangular shaped & weight generally 1 to 15 kg.
 For pressing with this iron, ironing bed or table is required
 Flat bed /shaped bed is used for electric iron but air suction ironing bed required for steam iron.
 After ironing a foot regulated switch is pressed for air suction which removes the moisture & heat from
the pressed garment quickly as a result, less possibility of unwanted crease & garments become dryed.
 To iron special garments part & to iron speedily, special shaped bed used & skilled operator required.
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2. Steam press:

Consists of a static buck & a head of complementary shape. Garment is kept on the buck, head is lowered to
the buck (garment is into them like sandwich) & by applying heat &pressure, pressing is done.

Buck is in a frame and on the buck, layers of fabric or foam is spread on buck to make ironing bed.

Air suction system through buck, also steam supply system.

Table around the buck to keep garments.

Head is in another frame.Foam/fabric layers are spread to form ironing bed and steam also supplied through
head.

Head is lowered on the buck & pressure is created by scissor action.

In modern machines, time, pressure, suction time etc.can be preset.

Silicon coated cover of nylon polyester fabric are spread on head & buck to facilitate easy cleaning.

Shape of head & buck may be changed depending on the garments.

*The ultra-modern steam press has one head & many bucks. Head & bucks both are moveable. When one
buck is engaged with head another buck is loaded &the already pressed buck is unloaded.
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3. Steam air finish:

Known as puffer/Dolly press.

In case of dolly press-

There is a pressing “Form” of heavy canvas fabric through which steam & compressed air are circulated by
pipe.

Body size of “Form” is according to garment body size but there is no sleeve on the form.

Dolly dress /steam dolly

Fig: Dolly dress steam dolly

Timer is used to circulate/flow steam & compressed air preset time.

An operator, make the garments wear onto the “Form” from top.

Then steam is circulated into the form by pipe and steaming is done for 8 seconds and Hot air is done for next
8 seconds.

In this process, crease/wrinkles are removed but cannot be created in desired area.
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Padded clamp used to resist the deformation of button hole.

Special care should be taken for knit items.

Use: T-shirt, blouse, night dress, sportswear. Also can be used for jeans, jackets etc.

4. Steam tunnel:

No pressure is applies on the garments.

Garments are hanged on hanger & hangers are placed on a moving rail.

The moving rail conveys the hanger with garments in to a tunnel & the tunnel has many chambers.

In the 1st chamber, required temperature is controlled by steam.

So, garments are steamed during passing the 1st chamber & the unwanted creases are removed by relaxation of
fabric for steaming & then the gravitational force.

Then the garments pass through the 2nd chamber& dried by hot air circulation.

Removing unwanted crease is possible but creating crease in required area is hardly possible.

Steam Iron 
In house hold operations, normal electric irons are extensively used. But today steam irons are used for
industrial purposes. In stem irons, the iron is heated up by steam which is supplied from a central boiler or a
mini boiler. The supply of steam is regulated by a hand regulated button. This steam is supplied to iron from
the boiler through a pipe and is let to come out through perforations under the iron. These irons are triangular
in shape and their weight varies from 1 to 15 kg. For pressing this iron, ironing bed or table is required. With
the bed there should be a provision of air suction system. After ironing, a foot regulated switch is pressed for
air suctioning which removes the moisture and heat as well from the pressed garment quickly. To operate
steam iron, skilled and experienced operator is required because the proper regulation of air and steam supply
depends on operator’s skillness.
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Steam Iron

Steam Pressing Machine 

A steam pressing machine consists of a static BUCK and HEAD of complementary shape, which closes onto
it. Thus sandwiching the garment to be pressed. It has a frame carrying the BUCK which is generally round in
shape. Besides this, it has linkages to close the HEAD, pipe system to supply steam to HEAD and BUCK, a
vacuum system to provide suction through the BUCK, a table around the BUCK to aid the handling of the
garments and foot control for HEAD closure and vacuum. The cycle of operation of this pressing machine for
pressing a garment (like skirt, shirt, trouser, etc) is as follows:
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Steam pressing machine

In the case of manually operated press, the duration of steam supply, pressure and vacuum are left to the skill
and judgment of the operator.

Working process of steam pressing machine

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FINISHING

Folding and packing:

Folding of shirts:

1. Stand up: collar is 90 ° with the folded body.

2. Semi standup: Collar is 45° with the folded body.

3. Flat pack: Collar is flat on the body.

4. Hanger pack: Hangered.

Cartons:

1. Solid color solid size.

2. Solid color assorted size.

3. Assorted color solid size.

4. Assorted color assorted size.

Shipping Mark:

 Buyer
 Destination.
 3Net weight.
 Gross Weight
 CTN dimension=L×W×H
 Total piece
 Break downs

CBM:

Cubic Meter.

If carton measurement are in inch, then

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CBM = (LXWXH)/1728/35.32 CBM [(LxWxH)/1758 = ‘Y’ Cubic feet]

If a 5 ply carton having length 60 CM, Width 46 CM and Height 28 CM, now calculate the carton
consumption or ply board consumption for 200 pcs carton box.

Given,

Length 60 CM

Width 46 CM

Height 28 CM

Total carton – 200 pcs

So, carton consumption or ply consumption (per pcs):

(Length + Width + Allowance) x (Width + Height + Allowance) x 2 / 10000

= (60 + 40 + 6) x (40 + 28 + 4) x 2 / 10000

= 1.526 square meter per pcs carton

For 200 pcs, total consumption will be (1.526 x 200 = 305 square meter)

Carton cost calculation formula:

(Length + Width + Allowance) x (Width + Height + Allowance) x 2 / 10000 x per square rate

For easy understanding, find the below costing process with example;

If a 7 ply carton length is 65 CM, width 42 CM and Height 25 CM and per square rate is $0.80 then find the
cost for 200 carton for an order.

Given,

Length 65 CM

Width 42 CM

Height 25 CM

Per square rate $0.80

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So, the cost of carton (per pcs)

(Length + Width + Allowance) x (Width + Height + Allowance) x 2 / 10000 x per square rate

= (65 + 42 + 6) x (42 + 25 + 4) x 2 / 10000 x $0.80

= $1.284 / pcs

For 200 pcs, total cost of carton is ($1.284 x 200 = $256.74). 

Quality:

Quality is the customer’s satisfaction.

Quality control:

It is the process by which we can maintain the current/required standard of product. We should cover 3 areas
to control quality in RMG industry.

1. Raw material quality control.

2. Manufacturing process quality control.

3. Final inspection.

Raw Material Quality Control:

 Fabric:

108X56/20X16/57” is a woven fabric construction. For woven fabric we should control-

-Construction

-Shrinkage

-Color Fastness

-Light Fastness

-Wash/ Perspiration

For Knit fabrics,

-GSM

-Color fastness
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-Shrinkage

 Accessories:

Thread: To check the TKT No. & count (20/2, 20/4, 40/2, 20/9) of the sewing thread.

Type: Polyester/ Cotton/ Other

Labels: To ensure that proper instruction & information is shown on the label.

Button: Should check size (16L, 18L), color, types etc.

Manufacturing Process Quality Control:

 Sample Section
 Cutting Section

i. Marker making:

Important areas should be covered are-

-Pattern size

-Grain Line

- Direction of pattern (1-way/ 2-way)

ii) Fabric Spreading:

Important areas should be covered are-

-Direction of lay

-Marking & putting sticker on faults.

iii) Fabric Cutting:

Important area should be covered are-

-Area of pattern should be cut precisely.

-Numbering 9To avoid shade variations)

iv) Sewing:

Important areas should be covered are-

-SPI
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-Measurement of the garments

-Attaching trimmings in the right way.

v) Finishing

Important areas should be covered are-

-Final measurement checking

-Attaching trimmings and accessories in the proper way

-Folding & packing

-Assortment

-Cartoning (Sl. No. / Of No.)

Final Inspection:

-Final inspection is conducted by Buyer or Buyers’ representative.

-Final inspection is conducted on the basis of AQL (Acceptable Quality Level)

Quality Cycle:

A
cti
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in
F
su Ip
k
ftra
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hy
g
m

Fig: Quality Cycle