Other Lasting

UNIT 3 OTHER LASTING OPERATIONS Operations

Structure
3.1 Introduction
Objectives

3.2 Upper Preparation

3.3 Scouring and Roughing
3.4 Summary
3.5 Key Words
3.6 Answers to SAQs

3.1 INTRODUCTION
Assembly Prior Lasting
Uppers from the closing room, soles and insoles from the bottom stock
preparation, heels and shanks from the suppliers, all these items are brought
together in the lasting area. A last plant register is also held giving the stocks of
shoe lasts in current use. All these items must be available in time before any
lasting operations commence as in the present business situation the whole shoe
must be made in one to two days, or faster!
The uppers and the components are put together according to the work ticket
orders. This should ensure that the stock of shoe lasts are used as often and
economically possible – ‘last turnaround’ – and in order to achieve the smooth
running of the lasting sequence, it is essential that all the uppers and components
are available to complete each ticket of work.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• develop skills in preparing the upper properly prior to its lasting,
• understand the importance of scouring and roughing of a lasted upper before
sole attaching, and
• judge the relationship between an upper material and the tools used in
roughing and scouring.

3.2 UPPER PREPARATION

Preparation for Lasting
(i) The properly moulded insole is attached to the bottom profile of the last prior
to the lasting of the upper by means of tacks, staples or adhesives either by
hand or by special stapling machines. The insole should be so place on the
last that it should be level with on or just under the featheredge.
(ii) If it is a laced upper it has to be laced with the lacing thread.
(iii) Toe-puff is attached to the upper either by dipping it in the solvent (in the
case of solvent activated toe-puff) or by means of heating by the toe-puff
attaching machine (in case of thermoplastic toe-puff). The machine has
moulds, which are heated up to attach the toe-puff on to the upper.
(iv) Counter or stiffener is attached to the back part of the upper again by means
of solvent (in case of the solvent activated counter) or by means of applying
heat (in case of the thermoplastic counter). This is done by a machine known
as back part moulding machine. The purpose of this is to give the shape of 5
Product Knowledge the back part of the upper as per the back profile of the last and also adjust
the length of the back height of the upper as required by the size run.
(v) The upper for some lasting methods is pre-shaped using methods such as
Blocking (crimping), precise edge pre-forming and whole shoe pre-forming
and perma form.
(vi) Once the toe puff and the counter stiffener has been attaché to the upper , the
lining on the upper has to be stuck to the upper material (leather or synthetic)
by means of an adhesive, leaving no wrinkles and air pockets behind. These
might cause a problem while lasting later on, which in turn might affect not
only affect its wearer also it might cause an effect on its saleability.
(vii) Upper conditioning is done just before the toe lasting operation by means of
a sponge (with water or a leather softener), moistening in fabric, immersing
in water, humidifying chamber, “contact mulling” or steaming.
SAQ 1
What are the different steps taken to prepare the upper for lasting?

3.3 SCOURING AND ROUGHING

Scouring and Soughing Purpose
The objective of the roughing operation is to remove the grain surface of the
leather revealing the flesh portion of the leather. This allows the adhesive to
penetrate the leather fibres thus providing a prepared surface in which a solid bond
can be generated between the upper and the sole. The wire brush has proved to be
the most effective tool for producing the required rough surface.
3.3.1 Grinderies Used In Scouring and Roughing Operations:
Abrasives are used in the shoe trade for preparing the surface of the material prior to
applying and adhesive or a finish. This is similar to the way that sand paper is used in the
home, to prepare surfaces for painting.
Abrasives are made up of four basic parts :
(i) Backing material
(ii) Adhesive bonding agent
(iii) Grit (Abrasive particles
(iv) Sizing agent (To hold grot in place)
An international system is used by the abrasive manufacturers using different types of
sieves that determine the number of grits to a square inch of material. Therefore, the
bigger the grit the less number there will be to the square inch.
Hence with a coarse grit there could be as little as 24 to the square inch and a fine grit
might have as many as 240 to the square inch. These numbers are used to define the
grade of abrasive material.
The coarsest grit in common use is 24 no. grit. It is used for roughing the edge of the
uppers before cementing for sole attaching.
Fine grit is used to scour the bottom of leather soles to give a smooth surface before
6 applying a bottom finish.
It must be realized that between these two extremes there are numerous grades to choose Other Lasting
from depending on the types of material being used and the finish required. Operations

Listed below are four operations using abrasives :

(i) Scouring the lasted edge
(ii) Surface scouring of leather soles
(iii) Heel breast scouring
(iv) Heel shaping
Shoe trade abrasives are supplied in belt form, on rolls, or in flat sheets, shaped to fit
scouring wheels and rollers on bottom preparing and finishing machinery.
Abrasives are made by taking a paper or cloth material to which is applied a natural glue
or synthetic resin adhesive, before applying the correct number of grit for the grade of
abrasive required.
The abrasive is finally sealed with an adhesive sizing agent to secure the grit.
There are two types of abrasives widely used in the industry. ALUMINIUM OXIDE,
which is reddish brown in colour, and SILICON CARBIDE, which is a black mineral.
Aluminium oxide is extremely hard wearing, making it suitable for almost all shoe trade
applications. Silicon carbide gives a very sharp cutting surface, but does not wear as well
as aluminium oxide, and would be used for lighter scouring operations, e.g. top piece
scouring and heel breast scouring.
It is important that the correct abrasive is selected for each operation.
For simplicity we can group the various abrasives in three :
Coarse Grit 24060
These coarse grit abrasives, usually aluminium oxide, are used when large amount
of material need to be removed, e.g. pleats which have formed during toe lasting.
These grits leave a very rough surface on the material around the lasted edge,
which is then further roughed by wire brush and cemented for sole laying. Because
of the coarseness of the grit it is much less likely to clog than a fine grit.
Medium Grit 80-120
These are usually aluminium oxide abrasive used where less material needs to be
removed without producing too smooth a finish, such as shaping leather built
heels.
Fine Grit 150-240
Usually aluminium oxide but could be silicon carbide. Used when a very smooth
surface finish is required, e.g. leather built heel and sole preparation prior to inking
or finishing.
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Product Knowledge Two conditions which badly affect the abrasives are :
(i) The abrasive is stored at too high temperature, causing it to crack.
(ii) If the abrasive is stored in damp conditions, causing the grit to peel away
from the cloth.
Abrasives must be kept in correct conditions during storage to avoid damage. Sheets and
strips should be stored flat or on a reel; belts should be hung over a rail to avoid creasing.
3.3.2 Types of Roughing Wheel
Various types of wire brushes are used to suit the needs of the different types of upper
materials.
For kid leather a softer (brass), lighter brush is used and for heavier leather, e.g. corrected
grain, a heavier steel brush is used.
The diameter of the wires in the brushes can range from 0.15mm to 0.30mm and the
types of brushes in general use are :
(i) Steel : Used for medium to heavy leathers.
(ii) Brass : Used for delicate and light leathers.
(iii) Rubber impregnated wire brush.
(iv) Souring Paper (36 Grit) : The scouring paper is holded on to the machine
by the rubber roller. The rubber roller is designed to expand. This is used for
removing any surplus upper material at the toe or the seat of the lasted
margin.
The type of roughing applied to the shoe will vary according to the shoe style/design.
Basic Cement Construction
The total lasted margin of this construction is roughed up to the featheredge. This
is used for the leather soles or unit soles with little or no lip.
Court Shoe Unit Sole
The heel of this construction is not roughed. The sole is roughed just short of
where the sole ends at the seat. After sole attaching the heel of this construction is
inside attached.
Walled Unit Construction
The shoe is roughed over the featheredge just short of where the unit extends
3.3.3 Faults Causes and Corrections in Scouring and Roughing Operation
Fault 1 : Surface Loose to Torn
Cause
(i) Too much pressure applied on the shoe against the brush.
(ii) Loose fibred leather
Correction
Reject if necessary
Fault 2 : Surface Not Completely Removed
Cause
(i) Too little pressure applied on the shoe against the brush.
(ii) Whole lasted margin not presented to the brush.
(iii) Wire brush not sharp enough.
Correction
8 (i) Re-rough, apply more pressure.
 (ii) Re-rough, cover whole lasted margin, move shoe up and down slightly Other Lasting
while roughing. Operations

(iii) Sharpen the wire brush.

Fault 3 : Roughing Over the Feather Edge
Cause
Operator.
Correction
Operator practice.
Fault 4 : Roughing Under the Feather Edge
Cause
Operator.
Correction
Operator practice, re-rough to feather edge.
SAQ 2
(a) What is the importance of roughing and scouring operations?
(b) What are abrasives? What are its basic operations?
(c) How many types of rouging wheel are there? Give the relationship between
them and the upper leather.
(d) What are the causes and remedies of the faults arising of the roughing and
scouring operations?

3.4 SUMMARY
In this unit we discussed the importance of the upper preparation prior to the lasting
operations. We also emphasised on the importance of roughing and scouring operation
prior to the sole attaching, the grinderies used in the roughing and scouring a machine
and the purpose of each one of them. The student shall also be able to identify the
problems and errors caused by the wrong usage of roughing and scouring operation and
also seek remedies to them.

3.5 KEY WORDS

Upper Conditioning : Treating of the upper by means of a Sponge
(water, leather softener), moistening of fabric,
immersing in water, humidifying chamber,
“contact mulling”, steaming prior to the lasting
operations.
Scouring and Roughing : It is an operation which removes the grain surface
of the leather revealing the flesh portion. This
allows the adhesive to penetrate the leather fibres
thus providing a prepared surface in which a solid
bond can be generated between the upper and the
sole. 9
Product Knowledge Abrasives : Abrasives are made by taking a paper or cloth
material to which is applied a natural glue or
synthetic resin adhesive, before applying the
correct number of grit for the grade of abrasive
required.

3.6 ANSWERS TO SAQs

Check your answers of all SAQs with respective preceding text.

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 Other Lasting
FURTHER READINGS Operations

FDDI Handouts.
Shoe Process and Technology by Lasra.
Shoe Making Manual by Clarkes.
Swayam Siddha Manual by FDDI.

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Product Knowledge
LASTING OPERATIONS
Uppers form the closing room, soles and insoles from the bottom stock preparation, heels
and shanks from the suppliers, all these items are brought together in the lasting area. In
order to achieve the smooth running of the lasting sequence, it is essential that all the
uppers and components are available to complete each ticket of work. This block focuses
on upper preparation, operator practice and choice of tools used in roughing and scouring
operation.
This block consists of one unit.
In Unit 3, attention is drawn to the basic aspects that are important to be understood for
an efficient use of assembly prior lasting. Moreover, this unit covers economic like,
faults, causes and remedies arising of the roughing and scouring operations.

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