Chemicalpeel (Deep, Medium, Light) : Sidney J. Starkman,, Devinder S. Mangat
Chemicalpeel (Deep, Medium, Light) : Sidney J. Starkman,, Devinder S. Mangat
Chemicalpeel (Deep, Medium, Light) : Sidney J. Starkman,, Devinder S. Mangat
M e d i u m , Li g h t )
Sidney J. Starkman, MDa, Devinder S. Mangat, MDb,*
KEYWORDS
Chemical peel Chemoexfoliation Phenol-croton oil peel Skin resurfacing
KEY POINTS
Chemical peels offer an excellent option for skin resurfacing for rhytids and dyschromias.
Phenol-croton oil peels have been modernized dependent on croton oil concentration to minimize
risks.
Complications associated with chemical peels are uncommon with proper technique and postop-
erative management.
Before becoming common practice of plastic sur- must be distinguished from other changes like vol-
geons, chemical peeling was modernized via the ume loss or jowling. Ideally, a chemical peel
a
Facial Plastic Surgeon, Mangat Plastic Surgery, 56 Edwards Village Boulevard, Suite 226, Edwards, CO 81632,
USA; b Starkman Facial Plastic Surgery, 8560 E Shea Boulevard, Suite 110, Scottsdale, AZ 85260, USA
* Corresponding author. 133 Barnwood Drive, Edgewood, KY.
E-mail address: [email protected]
patient will have blue eyes, fair skin, and shallow this reepithelialization for healing. The most cur-
rhytids. However, most chemical peel patients rent recommendations are to stop isotretinoin for
will not fit this exact description. Most commonly, 12 to 24 months before the peel.
the Fitzpatrick scale is used to help define a pa- Finally, the patient and the practitioner must
tient’s skin type (Table 1). have agreed on the reasonable expectations of
Patients also can be rated by their skin type, the peel. The patient’s axillary skin can represent
texture, complexion, and photoaging, using cate- the final result of the chemical peel, as long as
gorizing schemes such as the one by Glogau this region has not previously received excessive
(Table 2). sun damage.2
The medical history of the patient must be
reviewed before any chemical peeling occurs.
PREPARATION
Relative contraindications for any resurfacing pro-
cedure include smoking, diabetes, active or After the patient selection and planning are
frequent herpes simplex virus (HSV) infections, completed, adequate skin preparation must
cutaneous radiation history, hypertrophic scarring, begin before the peel. Sunscreens should be
or keloid history. Photosensitizing drugs, exoge- started 3 months beforehand to prevent prepeel
nous estrogen, and birth control pills should be tanning or sunburns. Part of the purpose of this
avoided because of the increased risk of hyperpig- is to decrease the melanocyte activity before
mentation. Patients also should be warned not to the peel. Topical tretinoin (Retin-A) is recommen-
have plans to become pregnant within 6 months ded for 6 to 12 weeks before the peel. The
after chemical peeling, because of elevated estro- topical tretinoin has been shown to have a syner-
gen levels of pregnancy.1 gistic effect with trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels,
Smoking and sun exposure always should be and can sustain the effects of these peels.3–5
addressed in the planning stages. Chemical peels Tretinoin leads to exfoliation of stratum corneum
on the faces of chronic smokers can lead to poor tis- and increased melanin distribution, and aids in
sue healing, because of the microvascular damage proper penetration of the peel solution. The
from smoking. It is recommended that smokers tretinoin contributes to a thickened and uniform
stop 1 month before the peel and continue absti- epidermis, which aids in uniform application of
nence for at least 6 months afterward. Likewise, it the peeling agent.
should be recommended to patients that prolonged Nighttime tretinoin treatments can begin
sun exposure should be avoided for 3 months after 6 weeks before the peel, and continue until the
the peel. If this is unacceptable to the patient, other postpeel reepithelialization is completed. The
options besides chemical peeling should be dosing ranges from 0.025% to 0.1%; however,
explored. no literature has shown improved results with the
An absolute contraindication to chemical higher dosing. Patients should be counseled of
peeling, or any facial resurfacing, is recent use of the possible side effects of tretinoin, such as ery-
isotretinoin (Accutane). Isotretinoin prevents reepi- thema, flakiness, or skin irritation. If this was to
thelialization from hair follicles and sebaceous occur, the dose can be reduced or the medication
glands, and chemical peeling relies primarily on can be discontinued entirely.
Table 1
Fitzpatrick skin type scale
Skin
Type Skin Color Characteristics
I White; very fair; red or blond hair; blue Always burns; never tans
eyes; freckles
II White; fair; red or blond hair; blue, hazel, Usually burns, tans with difficulty
or green eyes
III Cream white; fair with any eye or hair Sometimes mild burn, gradually tans
color; very common
IV Brown; typical Mediterranean Rarely burns, tans with ease
white skin
V Dark brown; Middle Eastern skin types Very rarely burns, tans very easily
VI Black Nevers burns, tans very easily
Chemical Peel (Deep, Medium, Light) 47
Table 2
Glogau skin classification scale
Another beneficial drug in the preparation of continues it for 7 days in the postoperative period.
chemical peel patients is hydroquinone. Hydro- In patients who are B-lactam sensitive, erythro-
quinone is used mostly in patients with dyschro- mycin 250 mg 4 times a day can be used. To main-
mias or lentigos, or in patients with Fitzpatrick III, tain uniform depth of the peeling agent, it is
IV, V, and VI skin types, because of the elevated advisable to recommend avoiding microdermab-
risks of postpeel postinflammatory hyperpig- rasion, waxing, or electrolysis for 3 to 4 weeks
mentation. The mechanism of hydroquinone is before peeling.
to block the conversion of tyrosine to L-Dopa
by tyrosinase, thereby decreasing melanin pro- DEFINING DEPTH OF PEEL
duction. In applicable patients, hydroquinone in
a concentration of 4% to 8% should be started The depth of a chemical peel is characterized by
4 to 6 weeks before chemical peeling. Recom- the amount of penetration, amount of destruction
mended formula for prepeel skin preparation is of the epidermis and dermis, and inflammatory
the following: hydroquinone 8%, hydrocortisone response. A superficial chemical peel is an
1%, and Retin-A 0.05% in a moisturizing cream appropriate option for patients with superficial
base. Similar to tretinoin, hydroquinone should lentigos, mild actinic damage, and fine rhytids.
be restarted after the peel once the patient’s This has a much greater safety and fewer com-
skin is ready to tolerate it. All patients should plications than deep chemical peels. The super-
be warned of the possibility of HSV outbreaks, ficial peel penetrates through the entire
even if they deny any history of herpetic vesicle epidermis and causes epidermal sloughing. It
breakouts. It is possible to harbor latent infec- will also cause an inflammatory response in the
tions even without any apparent clinical history. upper portion of the papillary dermis. For pa-
Recommended practice is to start any patient tients with Glogau types III or IV classification
with a negative history on a prophylactic dose and Fitzpatrick type I and II, a deep peel such
of antivirals, acyclovir 400 mg 3 times a day, as the classic Baker formulation can be used in
3 days before and continued for at least 7 days the perioral area. Deep peels cause sloughing
after the peel. For patients who do have a history of the epidermis and papillary dermis, and
of herpetic breakouts, a therapeutic dose of inflammation of the reticular dermis. The deep
antivirals should be used, such as valacyclovir peel is most effective in erasing deep rhytids,
1 g 3 times a day for the aforementioned time but it also carries the highest risk of complica-
period. tions, such as scarring with the 50% TCA peel
The first line of resistance to bacterial infection is or hypopigmentation with the classic Baker for-
the skin, and resurfacing procedures can reduce mula. With superficial and deep peels
this barrier. This can lead to infections by cuta- comprising 2 ends of the spectrum of chemical
neous bacterial flora, such as staphylococcal or peeling, the medium-depth peel balances excel-
streptococcal species. Appropriate antibacterial lent results with low risks. The medium-depth
coverage should begin before the peel as prophy- peel effectively treats moderate photoaging
laxis. The senior author (DSM) uses cephalexin, skin (Glogau II), dyschromias, and mild-to-
250 mg 4 times a day, 1 day before the peel and moderate acne scars.
48 Starkman & Mangat
Jessner solution has dried.12 Unlike with phenol Spies17 discovered that croton oil was soluble in
peels, frosting does not occur immediately, and ethanol and benzene, but poorly soluble in a
3 to 4 minutes must be allowed for the full frost 50:50 mixture of phenol to water. Hetter15 theo-
to form. Once this has happened, additional coats rized that this may be why septisol is needed as
can be applied to reach the desired depth of peel. a surfactant in the Baker formula.
Care is taken with additional applications of TCA, Hetter15 investigated the role of croton oil and
as this has a cumulative effect and leads to a phenol in chemoexfoliation by experimenting on
deeper peel, thus increasing the changes of hypo- a volunteer with multiple formulations of varying
pigmentation and scarring. concentrations of phenol and croton oil. These
Coleman and Futrell13 experimented with experiments refuted the previously described
creating a combination peel out of glycolic acid dogmas of the mid-twentieth century. A solution
and 35% TCA. Their histologic examinations of 18% phenol without croton oil demonstrated
demonstrated that it penetrated slightly deeper minimal postpeel effect. With a 35% phenol solu-
than Jessner/TCA combination peels.13 tion, mild keratolysis occurred with no dermal ef-
Investigations by Brody11 into the complications fect. It was only with an 88% phenol solution that
of these 3 combination peels found that their risks a papillary dermal effect took place. When croton
of scarring were less than 1%. This scarring risk oil was added to the phenol solution, more sub-
placed them on par with other skin resurfacing mo- stantial postpeel effects were noticed. In addi-
dalities, such as phenol-croton oil peels or CO2 tion, varying croton oil concentrations had
laser resurfacing. different results. A 0.7% croton oil concentration
solution required a 7-day recovery period,
MODIFIED PHENOL-CROTON OIL PEELS whereas a 2.1% croton oil concentration required
an 11-day recovery period. Hetter15 thus postu-
TCA peel solutions have taken a prominent role in lated that higher concentrations of phenol (88%)
modern-day chemical peel practices, due to the without septisol would peel more deeply than
all-or-none qualities of the Baker-Gordon phenol- lower concentrations (50% and 35%). He also
croton oil peel. Decades-worth of anecdotal expe- remarked that phenol formulations result in
riences regarding phenol-croton oil peels made deeper peels with increasing concentrations of
their way into the literature. The descriptions croton oil.
began in the 1950s and 1960s when plastic sur- Hetter’s subsequent studies allowed him to
geons first adopted the phenol-croton oil solu- form scientific generalizations in regard to
tions. Litton14 was the first to present these phenol-croton oil chemical peels. He realized
formulas to the American Society of Plastic and that by diluting the concentration of croton oil in
Reconstructive Surgery in the late 1950s. Soon af- these formulas, the healing times would be short-
terward, the classic formula was credited to Baker ened, signifying a shallower depth of penetration.
in the early 1960s.15 He took these assertions further by stating that
Around this time in the 1960s, Adolph Brown16 the concentration of phenol in fact had little to
wrote extensively about phenol-croton oil peels. do with the depth of penetration. Obagi18 was
He presented 3 doctrines of phenol peeling. First, the first to suggest that different concentrations
increasing the concentration of phenol (80% to of these formulas should be applied to the
90%) would work to prevent further penetration discrete subunits of the face (Fig. 1). Hetter
by creating an immediate keratocoagulation. Sec- used this postulation to apply varying concentra-
ond, adding a saponin to the solution would in- tions of croton oil to the facial subunits. He found
crease the depth of penetration. Third, the role of that the lower nose could tolerate croton oil con-
croton oil was merely to buffer the solution. These centrations up to 1.2%; the cheeks and forehead
writings were accepted as standards, and addi- only tolerated concentrations up to 0.8%; and the
tionally felt that phenol was the sole active ingre- upper nose, temple, and lateral brow could only
dient within the Baker formula. This resulted in withstand concentrations up to 0.4% before the
the belief that phenol in lower concentrations risk of complications rose. Last, Hetter felt 1%
was more dangerous because of deeper penetra- croton oil solutions were the upper threshold for
tion and that croton oil had no role in the depth of safe use to avoid serious risk of
peel. These beliefs lasted until the 1990s, when hypopigmentation.
they were questioned by Gregory Hetter.15 Hetter first created his formulations using
Croton oil is pressed from the seeds of Croton phenol at 33% to carry croton oil at 1-drop
tiglium, a small shrub found in India and Ceylon. (0.35%), 2-drop (0.7%), and 3-drop (1.1%) con-
Croton oil comprises mostly oleic, myristic, arach- centrations. However, he soon switched to a
idonic, and linoleic acids. In 1935, Joseph R. more standardized system of measurement, rather
50 Starkman & Mangat
Table 3
Hetter peel formulations (stock
solution 5 24 mL D 1 mL croton oil [4% croton
oil])
Level III: solid white frost with little or no back- 15 to 30 seconds. The burning sensation can then
ground erythema return approximately 30 minutes later and can
last for the remainder of the procedure day. The
The facial subunits are divided by the severity of bupivacaine in the local anesthetic blocks should
rhytids, photodamage, and lentigos, as well as provide anesthesia for hours following the peel.
skin thickness. The senior author uses 0.8% This is part of the reason why it is critical to apply
croton oil Hetter solution in areas of thicker skin comprehensive local anesthetic blocks to the
and deeper rhytids (Glogau III and IV), such as peeled areas.
the glabella and perioral regions. Intermediate
areas (Glogau II and III) are treated with 0.4%
croton oil Hetter solution. An 89% phenol solution POSTOPERATIVE PERIOD
is used for feathering along the borders of the The postoperative period begins immediately after
peeled areas to achieve an even postpeel result. the final subunit of the face is peeled. Once the last
A classic Baker formula can be used in patients area of frosting dissipates and only erythema re-
who are Fitzpatrick types I or II, and have severe mains, a thick coat of emollient is applied to all
Glogau IV rhytids in the upper lip. of the peeled skin areas. The senior author prefers
Ten to 15 minutes are allowed between each to use Eucerin cream, but Elta or Bacitracin oint-
subunit peeled for adequate clearance of the ment are other acceptable alternatives. These
phenol. Less clearance time is needed with the emollients are not occlusive and therefore do not
Hetter solution because of lower phenol compared affect the depth of the peel. The patient is
with the Baker-Gordon peel. The entire face can instructed to maintain a steady coat of this emol-
be peeled over 30 to 60 minutes. In the case that lient over the entire peeled region by reapplying
a minor supraventricular arrhythmia occurs, the 4 to 5 times per day, or as often as needed. This
peel should be paused until the patient returns to is continued for the duration of the postpeel period
normal sinus rhythm. until the area has fully peeled, and fresh skin is
When applying the peeling solution to the fore- visible.
head and temporal regions, the peel should The provider and staff should adequately
continue up to and even into the hairline. Phenol explain the expectations for the immediate post-
and croton oil will not affect the pigment of the peel period to the patient. The patient’s preopera-
hair follicles. In addition, in the perioral area, the tive understanding of the expected burning
peel should continue just over the vermilion sensation in the immediate postpeel will help
border. This is because the margin of each peeled with his or her tolerance. The patient also should
region will have a distinct line of reactive hyper- be prescribed an oral narcotic. In addition, the pa-
emia. While peeling adjacent facial subunits, tient should be prepared for the expected ery-
these lines of hyperemia should be included and thema, edema, and gradual desquamation over
peeled to prevent any resultant lines of demarca- the first week after the peel.
tion. For deep wrinkles of the perioral region, the The healing process consists of 4 stages. The
skin can be stretched taut to evenly apply the peel first stage occurs over the first 12 hours and con-
to these rhytids. Phenol-croton oil peels do not sists of facial inflammation. The epidermis be-
need to be neutralized, like glycolic acid peels, comes leathery and begins to separate from
due to the completed reaction, as demonstrated the dermis. The underlying treated dermal layer
by the frost. will become necrotic and being to slough. The
An area to exercise caution is in the lower eyelid applied emollient helps with removing this
region. The phenol-croton oil peel should be necrotic skin from the underlying tissues. The
applied to within 3 mm of the lower eyelid margin second stage is desquamation, which occurs
and then stopped. The sedated patient can over the next 3 to 7 days (Figs. 3–9). This ex-
develop tearing during the peeling procedure, poses the underlying erythematous dermis. The
and these tears should be wiped away to prevent third stage is reepithelialization, which partially
the peeling solution from tracking up along the coincides with desquamation and occurs be-
tear into the eye. The peel solution is not applied tween days 2 through 10 following the peel. Ree-
to the upper eyelid skin, as this area lacks the pithelialization will be demonstrated by the
sebaceous glands that are necessary for reepithe- changes in dermal color from bright red to a ligh-
lialization after a peel. ter shade of pink. The final stage is fibroplasia
If there were any areas of inadequate local and occurs toward the end of the first week
anesthesia, the patient can experience an imme- and continues for 12 to 16 weeks after the
diate burning sensation on application of the peel. This final period is when the full benefits
peeling solution, which will last for approximately of the chemical peel become apparent. During
52 Starkman & Mangat
COMPLICATIONS
Even with careful technique and appropriate pa-
tient selection, it is still possible to encounter a
host of potential complications following chemical
facial resurfacing. Therefore, it is critical for any
practitioner offering chemical peels to be cogni-
Fig. 3. A patient 5 days post phenol-croton oil peel, in zant of any potential complications, as well as
the midst of re-epithelialization. the appropriate treatments. This knowledge aids
in remedying any undesired effects, and still as-
sists in achieving the desired results.
Fig. 4. A woman treated with a phenol croton oil peel, improving her fine and course rhytids and skin pigment.
Chemical Peel (Deep, Medium, Light) 53
Fig. 5. Three months post-phenol croton oil peel, with improvement in skin tone and fine rhytids.
Fig. 6. Marked improvement in perioral rhytids following application of a 1.6% Hetter phenol-croton oil peel.
54 Starkman & Mangat
Fig. 7. Five months post-peel result with improvements in fine facial rhytids.
heart condition. The common presentation is a area of the face that does not fully reepithelialize
supraventricular tachycardia that occurs within within 10 days should be considered prolonged.
30 minutes of starting the peel, and can evolve This phenomenon is more common with deeper
into paroxysmal ventricular contractions, parox- phenol peels (Baker formula) and TCA peels. It is
ysmal atrial tachycardia, ventricular tachycardia, important to not merely dismiss prolonged healing
and possibly, atrial fibrillations. The best way to times as coincidentally, and to rule out the pres-
manage any of these listed progressive arrhyth- ence of underlying infections or contact irritants.
mias is to prevent them from occurring in the first These areas should be checked daily and treated
place. As soon as a supraventricular tachy- accordingly, or else the risk of scarring can rise
cardia, or other irregular rhythm, is noted, the precipitously.
peel should be immediately paused and
adequate hydration should continue. At this Scarring
point, the rhythm should eventually return to
If any facial scarring begins to develop, it is most
normal sinus rhythm as the phenol is cleared.
likely to occur in the area of the upper lip or over
Once the rhythm has returned to normal, the
areas with prominent underlying bone structure
phenol peel may proceed carefully with
such as the mandible. Scarring most commonly
attention to the rhythm monitor. In the rare
is due to an overly deep peel, or from inattentive
instance that the rhythm does not naturally
postoperative care. Again, the risk of scarring is
return to a normal rhythm, proper medical
significantly elevated in isotretinoin users. Once
procedures should be undertaken for that aber-
the patient has stopped isotretinoin, the practi-
rant rhythm.
tioner should check to confirm that the patient
is clearly producing skin oils. Once developing,
Delayed Reepithelialization
the scars can be treated with silicone
A more common complication following a deep sheeting coverings and intralesional corticoste-
chemical peel is prolonged recovery times. Any roids injections (Kenalog 20 mg/mL) every 2 to
Chemical Peel (Deep, Medium, Light) 55
Fig. 8. Results of a facelift for a middle-aged woman with excessive submental soft tissue, and moderate jowling.
Fig. 9. A woman with moderate jowling and neck skin crepiness being treated with an SMAS facelift.
the resolution of this erythema. As this erythema is 2. Brody HJ. Complications of chemical resurfacing.
eventually subsiding in the weeks following the Dermatol Clin 2001;19:427–38.
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hyperpigmentation. The typical scenario for this is ment on TCA chemical peel in guinea pig skin.
in a patient with excessive sun exposure following J Korean Med Sci 1996;11:335–41.
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A more severe complication of chemical peeling is Arch Dermatol 1986;15:848.
hypopigmentation. This is likely due to phenol’s 6. Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Alpha-hydroxy acids: science
ability to eliminate melanocyte’s ability to produce and therapeutic use. J Cosmet Dermatol 1994;
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when single facial subunits are peeled, rather than 7. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Alpha-hydroxy acids: proced-
the whole face. This complication was more com- ures for use in clinical practice. Cutis 1989;43:222.
mon in the past when deeper peels such as the 8. Hayes DK, Berkland ME, Stambough KI. Dermal
classic Baker formulation were used, along with healing after local skin flaps and chemical peels.
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Hypopigmentation is unfortunately irreversible, 9. Brody HJ. Variations and comparisons in medium
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SUMMARY 11. Brody HJ. Chemical peeling and resurfacing. St
Louis (MO): Mosby; 1997. p. 109–10.
With the relatively recent arrival of CO2 laser 12. Monheit GD. Advances in chemical peeling. Facial
resurfacing and Erbium:YAG laser resurfacing, Plast Surg Clin North Am 1994;2:5–9.
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The authors have nothing to disclose.
19. Monheit GD. Medium-depth chemical peels. Derma-
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