Quality Management System in Textiles
Quality Management System in Textiles
Quality Management System in Textiles
- Testing Laboratory.
- Machineries Auditing System.
- A Good Training System.
- Excellent Analytical Back-up.
- Technical Expertise.
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The daily on-line check is done by following checking,
- Construction of fabric.
- Total ends of fabric.
- Reed Count.
- Reed Space.
- Fabric Width.
- Weft Count.
- Ends Per Inch.
- Picks Per Inch.
- Design Of Fabric
- Ends Per Dent.
- Selvedge Width.
- Tensile Strength.
- Tearing Strength.
- Shrinkage Of Fabric.
- Abrasion Resistance.
- Pilling Resistance.
- Thermal Stability.
- Stretch Ability & Growth Recovery.
- Smoothness Of Fabric Surface.
- Appearance Of Fabric
- GSM Of Fabric.
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In the spinning section the quality of product mainly depends on
the following points of product,
- Type Of Fibre.
- Staple Length.
- Neps.
- Evenness.
- Strength.
- Elongation.
- Count.
- Twist.
- Trash.
- Noil.
- Slubs etc.
Blowroom section:-
- Cleaning Intensity
- Relative Waste Amount.
- Commercial Staple Length.
- Recycling on/off.
Carding section:-
- Sliver Weight.
- Production.
- Cylinder Speed.
Breaker Drawframe:-
- Sliver Weight.
- Draft Gear.
- Roller Setting
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- Speed.
- Doubling.
Finisher Drawframe:-
- Sliver Weight.
- Draft Gear.
- Roller Setting.
- Speed.
- Doubling
Simplex Section:-
- Hank
- Draft Change Pinion.
- Speed.
- Twist Per Inch.
- Winding length.
Ringframe Section:-
- Count.
- Twist Per Inch.
- Total Draft.
- Speed.
Winding Section:-
- Count.
- Lot
- Speed.
- Winding Length.
- Classimet Setting.
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In the case of wet processing there are some major areas where
process control & quality control both are very essential.
Considering this fact Sinha Textile Group always do both process
& quality control in some major steps of wet processing. These are
given below.
- Grey Inspection.
- Desizing. Raw Materials Processed Materials
- Scouring.
- Bleaching. -Dyes. . -Desized goods.
- Mercerizing. -Chemicals. -Scoured goods.
- Dyeing. -Auxiliaries -Bleached goods
- Printing. -Mercerized goods.
- Finishing. - Dyed goods.
- Final Inspection. -Printed goods.
-Finished goods.
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MACHINERIES OF SINHA ROTOR
SPINNING LIMITED:-
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MACHINERIES OF SINHA YARN DYEING
& FABRICS LIMITED:-
MACHINERIES OF SINHA YARN DYEING LTD.:-
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MACHINERIES OF SINHA DYEING &
FINISHING LIMITED:-
Type Of M/C Manufacturer Origin Quantity
Singeing & Parey Mather Belgium 01
Desizing
Singeing & Germany 01
Desizing
Scouring & Benninger Switzerland 01
Bleaching
Scouring & Kuster Germany 01
Bleaching
Mercerizing Sir James Farmer England 01
Norton
Pad Thermosol Monforts Thermex Germany 01
M/C
Pad Steam M/C Benninger Switzerland 01
Pad Dry Steam Monforts Thermex Germany 01
M/C 6500 B-C-C.
Washing M/C Kuster Germany 01
Printing M/C Stork Holland 01
Loop Steamer Stork Holland 01
Stenter M/C Morison Germany 01
Stenter M/C Monforts Montex Germany 01
Stenter M/C Icomatex Spain 01
Sanforizing M/C Monforts Montex Germany 03
Piech M/C Gessener Italy 02
Piech M/C Santex Italy 02
Brush M/C Denti-Paoloe Italy 01
Raising M/C Santex Italy 01
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Wastage Of Spinning Unit:-
Section Amount Of Wastage As
Wastage
Blowroom 4% Dust, Dirt & Trash
Carding 3% Dust, Dirt & Trash
Breaker Draw 0.5% Sliver
Frame
Finisher Draw 0.5% Sliver
Frame
Lap Former 0.5% Sliver
Comber 12%-20% Noil, Lap, Sliver
Simplex 0.5% Sliver
Ring Frame 1% Roving, Hard Waste,Pneumafil
Auto Coner 2.5% Hard Waste
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Wastage Of Sizing Section:-
In the sizing area wastage comes mainly from the portion of yarn
sheet that is being kept as backing after completion of sizing for
easy passing of the next beam’s yarn sheet through the sizing
machine. So, wastage comes mainly from two portion. That is
from unsized yarn sheet & sized yarn sheet.
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Wastage Of Processing Unit:-
In the processing unit the amount of waste is given depending on
the liquid waste that means water & chemical wastage. The
amount of waste is given here for certain length of fabric
processing & this amount is very high because there is no recovery
system is available.
Comments:-
From the above information we see that the amount of wastage
varies from section to section. We must should develop the
accuracy of different process to reduce the amount of wastage. In
case of processing we should introduce a system that may help to
recover few portion of water & chemical so that the amount of this
huge percentage of waste can be minimized.
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INSPECTION OF FABRIC BY 4 POINT SYSTEM:-
Fabric Inspection:-
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Weaving fault
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General Penalty points
36 * 100
Fabric Width (Inch)
Internship Program:-
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ABOUT RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT:-
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The word “Research” is closely related with the way of wearisome
to invent something or giving a new technique as solution of any
requirement. On the other hand “Development” stands for the
physical appearance of any researched or planned agenda. For this
reason the globe of “Research & Development” is based on both
speculative job as well as convenient. In the textile sector
department of “Research & Development” i.e. R&D is very much
essential. Specifically for an industry which is running with an
complete industrial park. When an industry can stand up with all
the projects like spinning, yarn dyeing, weaving & processing
together in a region, then it is very much logical to construct a
department like R&D.
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Getting Swatch From Buyer For Duplication
Analysis
Yarn Ordering
S/D Y/D
Processing Sizing
Finishing Weaving
Testing Processing
Finishing
Testing
B
LAYOUT OF R&D DEPARTMAENT
B F
MI A LE
AH
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E ST G
C
E D
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Here,
A- Officer’s Table.
B- Cloth Stock.
C- Fabric Cutting Machine.
D- Desk loom.
E- Book Shelf.
F- File Space.
G- Yarn Lee Machine.
H- Handloom
I- Toilet
L- Leg Panel’s Hangers.
M- Manager’s Room.
T- Table.
Way.
ORGANOGRAM OF R&D:-
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Chairman
Director
General Manager
Manager
Production Officer
Supervisor
Helper
Worker
MANPOWER OF R&D:-
POST MANPOWER
Manager 01
Senior Production Officer 02
Production Officer 04
Assistant Technical Officer 03
Supervisor 02
Helper 03
Worker 12
LIST OF BUYERS:-
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The directory of buyers for which Research & Development
department works through-out the year are given below-
- Levi Strauss
Levi’s Guys.
Levi’s Girls
Levi’s Europe
Levi’s Canada.
Levi’s USA
Levi’s Signature
Levi’s Dockers
- VF
VF Asia
VF Nautica
VF Europe
- H&M
- Medlar
- AMC
- TCP
- Li & Fung
- Marksrauft
- Marks & Spencer
- Hanes
- JC Penny
- Mirza Fashion
- Sears
- Oxford
FABRIC TYPES:-
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The types of fabric that is developed in R&D department of STG
are given below-
- Canvas -Chambrays
- Poplin - Lycra
- Oxford - Pinpoint
- Boxy - Rib stop
- Ottoman
Analysis:-
Yarn Ordering:-
This step comes in case of producing yarn dyed fabric. The ordered
yarn directly goes to the yarn dyeing section for dyeing purpose.
R&D section informs the yarn dyeing section all the necessary
information related to yarn dyeing like the shade of colours, the
quantity of each colour to be dyed, warp way colours & weft way
colours, number of cones of each colour for random program as
well as the cone length. Following these instructions yarn dyeing
& random program is being done. When the yarn dyeing section
receives the order of R&D section then they make a time & action
plan(TAP) & send this to R&D. Following that plan we get
informed when we can receive the dyed & random yarn from yarn
dyeing section.
Warping:-
Now for the solid dyed fabric after yarn ordering when we receive
the required quantity of yarn then the next step is direct warping.
On the other hand for the yarn dyed fabric after completion of
dyeing & random of yarn we have to do the sectional warping or
beam warping(less than 15% coloured yarn of total).
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So we can say that the beam warping or the direct warping is used
for long runs of grey fabrics & simple patterns where the amount
of coloured yarn involved is less than about 15% of the total.
On the other hand sectional warping is used for short runs,
especially of fancy patterned where the amount of coloured yarn is
more than about 15% of the total.
Now we have to know how the grey yarn or dyed yarn will run for
warping. During the analysis & planning for sampling period we
make a paper that is supplied taking the approval of manager &
GM to warping & sizing section as well as to the weaving section.
There the pattern is given & following the pattern the warping
people carry the warping process. Here we have maximum creel
capacity of 560 for sectional warping & 640 for direct warping.
In case of direct warping R&D section informs the cone length,
no. of beams according to the fabric requirement which have to be
produced, through a paper.
It takes 3-4 hours to complete warping for a sample. So after
completion of warping we are getting the warper’s beam which is
ready for sizing now.
Sizing:-
In this way sizing of the warp yarn is done & finally we are getting
the weaver’s beam of the ordered sample.
Weaving:-
After getting the sized weaver’s beam at first that beam is being
received by the weaving unit. Then firstly drawing-in or Knotting
is done following the pattern made by R&D section. After
completing the drawing-in then denting is done. Finally according
to the design weaving of the fabric starts. For weaving the required
weft yarn is being supplied by store(in case of grey fabric) or by
the yarn dyeing unit(in case of yarn dyed fabric). In STG there are
two types of loom available. One is Rapier & the other I Air Jet
loom. So in both type of loom it is possible to produce the fabric.
In this way after few days we get the required amount of fabric in
grey condition from weaving unit.
Processing & Finishing:-
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Singeing of grey cloth or yarn is performed to remove all
protruding fibers imparting external appearance of ready articles
and impeding further treatment. Almost all fabrics are singed
except for those that are subjected to napping, pile fabrics, gauze
and terry fabrics.
So, we can see that each & every steps of processing are equally
important for grey goods to be a finished product that can be used
by people. In case of grey goods that will be solid dyed further,
must be subjected to all the processes described above. In case of
yarn dyed grey fabric the processes that have to be followed are
singeing & desizing, washing & finally finishing in the stenter
machine & in the sanforise machine.
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Testing:-
If buyer see that the produced fabrics are satisfying their demand
then they may approve it. On the other hand if we cant satisfy them
the order will be rejected. But in most of the cases R&D satisfies
the buyers need & carry on the bulk production.
In this way R&D department regularly doing their task to get the
bulk order in every season & satisfy the buyer. To do the work all
these steps comes in the way of research & development
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REQUIRED FORMULAS FOR R&D WORK:-
During the work of Research & Development we have to do lot of
calculations in every steps. There are some formulas, which we
followed to do the calculations. These formulas are given below-
Normally when buyers send CAD then they give the construction
& weave of the fabric. Otherwise in case of their supplied fabric
swatch, we have to identify the construction & weave. The
calculation that I am representing is based on CAD.
Total no. of section = Total Ends/ Total no. of cone of warp yarn
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REQUIRED FORMATS FOR R&D WORKS:-
Research & Development department’s work is related with all the
sections of textile sector like spinning, weaving, yarn dyeing, wet
processing. So with these sections all the required communication
must be maintained with formats. The formats those are required
for R&D department are –
Now the formats that are the most important part of R&D work are
given in the following page.
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Format of requesting for grey yarn from SRSL :
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Format for yarn dyed product development :
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Format of solid dyed product development:
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Format for requesting for yarn dyeing & random:
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Format for processing unit as program sheet:
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Format for requesting for lab test/ lab treat:
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EXAMPLE OF A PROGRAM OF A YARN
DYED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT OF R&D:-
Now I am going to present the program of yarn dyed product
development as an example including the format works.
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Pattern making from CAD:-
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Requesting for the required amount of yarn & follow up:-
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Requesting for dyeing & random & follow up:-
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Requesting for processing & follow up:-
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Requesting for lab test & follow up:-
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Delivery of the fabric to buyer:-
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Serial Fabric Specification Sample Sample name
No.
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Construction: 78100/4040+12/2
01. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type : CC+K Plain
Finish: Regular
Type of dye: Reactive
Canvas
Weight: 6.20 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 10050/40+4021/2
02. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CK
Finish: Regular Plain
Type of dye: Reactive Oxford
Weight: 5.3 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 10048/40+4010
03. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CK
Dobby
Finish: Regular Oxford
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 5.3 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 10050/40+4032/2
04. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CK
Finish: Regular Plain
Type of dye: Reactive Oxford
Weight: 4.1 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 16890/6060
05. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CC
Finish: Regular Poplin
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 2.98 Oz/Yd2
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Construction: 9080/1616
07. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KK R.H.Twill
Finish: Regular
Type of dye: Reactive
Canvas
Weight: 7.75 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 12860/2016
08. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KK L.H.Twill
Finish: Regular
Type of dye: Reactive
Canvas
Weight: 3.8 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 150100/ 100/250
09. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CC L.H.Twill
Finish: Regular
Type of dye: Reactive
Poplin
Weight: 3.5 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 11551/40+4021/2
10. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CCK
Finish: Regular Chambrays
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 5.65 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 7860/1010
11. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: OEOE
Finish: Brush Heavy Brush
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 10.5 Oz/Yd2
Fabric
Construction: 10586/4040
12. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CC
Finish: Regular Dobby
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 3.5 Oz/Yd2
Fabric
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Plain fabric :
Construction: 144105/4040
02. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: CC
Finish: Regular
Type of dye: Reactive
Poplin
Weight: 4 .77 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 140120/2020+12
03. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KOE
Finish: Regular Ottoman
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 11.5 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 11656/20+207+7
05. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KOE
Finish: Regular Boxy
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 9.7 Oz/Yd2
Canvas
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Construction: 7834/10+106
06. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: OEOE
Finish: Regular Oxford
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 9.5 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 12874/32+32S12+12S
07. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KSlub
Finish: Light Peach Slub
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 7.25 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 10266/20S20S
08. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: SlubSlub
Finish: Regular Slub
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 5.57 Oz/Yd2
Canvas
Construction: 10548/1612
09. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KK
Finish: Regular
Type of dye: Reactive Rib stop
Weight: 7.6 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 13372/4040+40D
10. Fabric content: 98%Ctn-2%Lycra
Yarn type: CC
Finish: Peach
Type of dye: Reactive Stretch
Weight: 4.4 Oz/Yd2
Twill Fabric:
Serial Fabric construction Sample Sample name
No.
58
Construction: 10856/1612
01. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KK
Finish: Wrinkle Free L.H.Twill
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 8.2 Oz/Yd2
Canvas
Construction: 14070/3232
02. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KK
Finish: Regular Twill
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 4.8 Oz/Yd2
Poplin
Construction: 11072/20+16S16
04. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: K+SK
Finish: Regular Slub
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 7.75 Oz/Yd2
Twill
Construction: 16065/3020+16S
05. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: K K+S
Finish: Regular Slub
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 6.22 Oz/Yd2
Twill
Construction: 14670/307
07. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KOE
Finish: Regular Dobby
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 10.76 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 12858/2010
08. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KOE
Finish: Regular Dobby
Type of dye: Reactive
Weight: 8.9 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 10856/1612
09. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KK
Finish: Regular Broken
Type of dye: Reactive Twill
Weight: 8.2 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 16371/3214S
10. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type: KSlub
Finish: Regular Slub Twill
Type of dye: Reactive 4/1 Sateen
Weight: 7.5 Oz/Yd2
Construction: 12065/1616
11. Fabric content: 100% Cotton
Yarn type : KK
Finish: Regular Bed Ford
Type of dye: Reactive Cord
Weight : 9.4 Oz/Yd2
MY ACHIEVEMENT:-
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I got the general information of such a large factory that gives me
the clear idea about the requirements of a composite industry setup
with all necessary manpower & machineries.
CONCLUSION:-
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For every person who is fresher in the field of textile, industrial
training works like learning route. This course given me the
opportunity to move liberally in every section of the industry to
learn the industrial work & follow the process sequence virtually.
From my two months observation of the industry along with
research & development section specially, I can say that in the
weaving sector this industry has very strong possibility because the
industry is running with all modern machineries & very
knowledgeable persons are working all the time with their
maximum oomph. I just think the capacity of the industry should
be developed with the amount of order the industry is being taking.
Thank you.
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