Small Steam Engines

UC-NRLF
B 3 135 flbS
LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.
OK
MRS. MARTHA E. HALLIDIE.
Class
SMALL ENGINES AND
BOILERS
VERTICAL ENGINE OF FIVE HORSE-POWER.
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS
A MANUAL
OF
CONCISE AND SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS FOR THE CON-

STRUCTION OF SMALL STEAM ENGINES
AND BOILERS OF MODERN TYPES,
FROM FIVE HORSE POWER DOWN TO MODEL SIZES,

FOR
AMATEURS AND OTHERS INTERESTED IN SUCH WORK.
BY
F5 . WATSON.
Late Editor and Proprietor of The Engineer.
AUTHOR OF "MODERN PRACTICE," "MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE,"
" How TO RUN ENGINES AND " THE
BOILERS," PROFESSOR
IN THE MACHINE SHOP," ETC., ETC.
Illustrated by jo Full Page Working Dimensioned Drawings^
NEW YORK
D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY.
1899
HALLIDIE
COPYRIGHT, 1899, BY
C. J. PETERS & SON, TYPOGRAPHERS,

BOSTON.
PREFACE.
THE intention of the author in writing this work

has been to furnish specific directions and correct
dimensioned plans for small engines and boilers,
used either for pleasure or power purposes, in lieu
of sketches and gossip about such machines. It
has been assumed that those who need a guide of.
thiskind have some acquaintance with ordinary

machine work, and the usual facilities for it, if even
but a small lathe and a vice-bench ;
with this out-
fit a great deal may be done.
The boilers shown willdo a great deal of work
for their superficial dimensions, if properly man-
aged. They have ample grates and heating

surfaces, and will maintain a steady evaporation
continuously with good fuel and management.

The work also contains hints upon lathe-work,
vice-work, and finishing metals, which it is believed
98890
VI PREFACE.
will be of service to those who have had but a

limited experience.
High expansion engines have not been treated,

for the reason that they are beyond the mechani-
cal and engineering experience of the majority
of persons who will purchase a work of this char-
acter.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. PAGE
Introductory; Illustration of Vertical Engine .... 1-3
CHAPTER II.
Drawings. Example of Skeleton Drawing. Explanation

of Methods used to design engines 4-10
CHAPTER III.
Plans for Vertical Engine of 3" by 4" Cylinder. Illustra-

tion of Small Vertical Engine of f" Cylinder by i"
Stroke; View of Horizontal Engine 11-17
CHAPTER IV.
Discursive as to Ways and Means of doing Work the ;
Best Tools for the Purpose and Methods employed

by Practical Men to produce Certain Results . . . 18-22
CHAPTER V.
Engine Details.Figured Plans for Various Members of

Launch Engine 3" by 4". Concise Directions for
Completing Each Part in Full 23-32
CHAPTER VI.
Further Details. Ways and Means, and the

Discussion of
Fitting-up of Cross-head, Connecting-rod, Crank-
disk, and Eccentrics 33~4O
viii TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VII. PAGE
The Link Motion and How to Construct it. Remarks

upon its Functions and Operation. Reverse Gear
and Piston Construction 41-48
CHAPTER VIII.
The Bed-plate Illustrated and Remarks upon the Neces-

sity of Accurate Execution of Certain Portions of
the Engine 49~5*
CHAPTER IX.
Plans for Valve-stem, Stuffing-box, and Connecting-rod.

Careful Fitting of Certain Details enjoined. Return
Crank Valve Motion 5 2 ~57
CHAPTER X.
The Horizontal Engine and How to Build it. Full Fig-

ured Dimensions of the Principal Details with In-
structions How to execute Them. Consideration of
the Eccentric, Bed-plate, Pillow-block, Connecting-
rod, and Cross-head 58-83
CHAPTER XL
Setting Eccentrics. Detailed Explanation of the Process.
The Link Motion continued and discussed in Fuller
Detail. Various Kinds of Machine Finish, Solder-
ing, and Brazing 84-96
CHAPTER XII.
Discussion of Boilers and Figured Plans for Small Pow-

ers. Vertical Boilers of One-horse Power. Rule
for Bursting-pressure of Boiler-shells ;
Tubes and
Heating Surfaces ;
Water-tube Boilers .... 97-108
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS
CHAPTER I.
THE difference between amateur work of all

kinds and that of expert workmen is to be found
in its lack of finish, disproportion in sizes, and
haste in assemblin-g it. These are common faults ;
and since they are easily remedied there is no

reason why they should not be, if the directions
given in this volume are carefully followed.
Lack of sometimes caused by want of
finish is
the proper agents, files, polishing materials, etc. ;
but as these are easily obtainable in all parts of

the country by mail from the larger cities, there
is no excuse for being in want of them the ;
several mediums employed will be enumerated in

the proper place. Disproportion in sizes is easily
avoided by considering the work done by the de-
tail to be made and the material
employed in its
construction, allowing a large margin for safety
against accidental strains.
For example*the cylinder of a steam engine
:
is
always of cast-iron, or, in model engines, it is
sometimes of brass to avoid rusting when idle
2 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
and to impart elegance of appearance ;

it does
not require to be of great thickness, even. for very

I have seen steam
high pressures. fire-engines
worked at 200 pounds per square inch having 6-
inch cylinders only i of i inch thick the heads
;
being of the same thickness. No accident ever

occurred to them. The same cylinder in a station-
ary engine would be i inch, or I of i inch, thick to
allow for re-boring but the first-mentioned cylin-
;
der was entirely within the limits of safety. In

model engines it is quite common to make a cyl-
inder of 2 inches diameter i of an inch thick, for
the assumed reason that it is easier to make a
sound casting of the proper temper for machining
than one that is lighter. These considerations
hold good in practice, but there is nothing to pre-
vent such a cylinder being bored out so as to leave
it
only tV of an inch thick the result being that
;
the machine as a whole is lighter o and not im-

paired as to its duty.
Haste in assembling or putting machines to-
gether is inexcusable for an amateur, who is sup-
posed to have plenty of time at his command and ;
it arises from a desire to see how the machine

will look when it is put together, but, as a conse-
quence, it looks badly. Parts are shoved together

anyhow, in line or out of line, and hastily connected
before they are half finished, so that an expert
workman can tell at a glance that a 'prentice hand
did the work.
I have alluded to these common errors in ama-
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 3
teur work reason that it is requisite to

for the
know what not to do as well as what must be
done in order to get out a creditable piece of
work and surely if a thing is worth doing at all
;
it isworth doing well.

Of all things amateurs should avoid makeshift
methods, such as soft soldering parts together
that should be bolted and screwed fast, or using
bent wires or parts not turned true where it is
necessary to use connections. Soldering is a
tinker's job, and belongs to pots and pans, not
to machine-work with any pretence to accuracy
and durability. We can make an alleged steam
engine out of sheet-brass and tin soldered to-
gether with wires for connections but the time
;
spent upon such work is wasted, for the job com-

plete is not worth a moment's notice. It will not
stand any pressure at all or do any work, whereas,
if the amateur follows the instructions in this book,
he will have an engine and a boiler that will do a

good deal of work, even to driving quite a number
of tools, or a boat 20 feet long, which will carry a
dozen people. Such an engine would seem to be
outside the pale of amateur work, but this is not
the case for it weighs complete but 90 pounds,
;
and no detail is beyond the capacity of a lathe

that will swing 6 inches over the ways and take
24 inches between centres. Complete figured
drawings appear farther on for this engine, as
also the way to make a drawing for any engine
or machine.
CHAPTER II.
DRAWINGS.
AN amateur should never make any machine

without a drawing of some kind, showing all the
connections, the lengths of them, and where they
come or are attached. For want of this very
necessary preliminary he may find that he has to

either rebuild or else cut away parts that interfere,
not only doing the work twice over, but making
a botched job after all ;
for any work that is not
designed properly on the start never comes right

at the end if it ever has an end.
It is not necessary to show every bolt and nut

in such a drawing ;
but it is necessary to show
every connection, the frame, and the lengths and
widths of the steam gear, such as the valve and
valve chest, the ports, eccentrics, and rocker arms,
if any are used, pillow-blocks and shaft, crank
and fly wheel, etc. When this is done the ama-
teur can go ahead, secure in the knowledge that
he have a good job if the work is properly
will
executed, and that he will not have to do any of
,
the work twice. Such drawings are called skele-
ton drawings, and are used in some of the largest
shops in the country. Fig. i shows such a draw-
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
Fig, i,
Fig, a,
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. J
ing in its incipiency. The first thing is to draw

the centre and base lines. Suppose we mean to
make a vertical engine of any size 2-inch cylin-
der by 3- or 4-inch stroke then we draw the
;
centre line A, which shows the centre of the

cylinder, and at the bottom the base B, which
shows the bed-plate top. We
have, of course,
determined previously just what dimensions we
intend to use, and figured all the lengths, so that
we know what height the engine will be. For
example the cylinder is to have 2-inch bore,
:
by 3-inch stroke, the piston is to be I of i inch

thick, and the steam ports \ of i inch wide, the
3
cylinder-flanges are to be T thick each then
ir ;
the length of the cylinder would be top flange :
5
tV, upper port i ?, including piston clearance, pis-
ton f of i inch, and stroke 3 inches bottom
;
port including clearance, and bottom flange

tV,
tV the cylinder top and head is the same thick-
;
ness as the flanges and the stuffing-box is i inch,

;
including the gland when in its working position.

Now add all these together, and we have the
net length of the cylinder complete, to wit 5^ :
inches over flanges, and 6i inches over stuffing-

box gland screwed home. We
mark these sev-
eral dimensions (not in detail, but in gross as on
the skeleton drawing). Whatever clearance is
needed between the cross-head and the gland
say half an inch is then marked, and the
length
of the cross-head jaws, say 2 inches. Right in
the centre of this, we draw a circle for the wrist-
pin so-called ;
and from that we .pleasure the
length of the connecting rod, usually, three times
the piston stroke, say 9 inches. This also gives
the centre of the shaft-bearing or pillow-block
when the piston is at half-stroke. Adding these
distances we find a certain length over all, to
which must again be added the depth of the pillow
block, measured from the centre of the shaft to
the bottom. This gives the total height of the
engine over all, from top of cylinder head to top
of bed- plate, but not the height of the frame, for
that depends upon what sort of a connection is
used to support the cylinder. Suppose a bracket
to be cast on the cylinder at D, then the height
of the frame would be from the under side of the
bracket to the top of the becl-plate and is easily
arrived at.
This is briefly the method of getting the main
lengths, but has nothing to do with the details of
the engine itself, and must not be confounded
with them or with the drawing, Fig. i, which is
referred to as an example only.
^
4. BACK LEG OF FRAME, 3" X 4".

CHAPTER III.
THE plan mentioned having been followed, we

are then ready to design details, and the cylinder
naturally comes first it is
: shown marked fin-
ished sizes, Figs. 40 and 5, and, as will be seen, is
for a model engine of 3-inch cylinder by 4-inch
stroke. This engine will easily develop 5-horse
power at800 revolutions per minute, which its
short stroke enables it to attain readily. For such
speeds the ports must be large and the exhaust
free, so as to avoid back pressure on the piston ;
a suitable boiler for this engine will be shown in

the chapters devoted to boilers.
We proceed to draw the cylinder by erecting
the centre and base lines as before mentioned ;
and in this view we need two centre-lines to de-

velop it, as shown in A
and B. The several
dimensions alluded to in the second chapter are
laid off in their order, and the sizes marked upon
them. The bracket D
is for the head of the
frame or cylinder support. The cylinder will re-

quire two views, as shown in Fig. 4^, and the
designer can adopt those shown or make any

others for himself.
All other details for this engine are shown in
the several figures following. Another style of
ii
Fig. 4a. CYLINDER-PLAN AND SECTION.

vertical engine which is much

simpler and easier
to make is shown in the Fig. 6
illustration.
This engine is
wholly brass, except the columns
which are of iron even they can be made of brass
;
if preferred. The cylinder of this engine is only

I of i inch bore, by i inch stroke, and weighs
Fig. 5. END VIEW OF CYLINDER.
but i
pound. It has, however, driven a small
torpedo boat, 4 feet long by 6 inches wide, at

the rate of 3 miles per hour with oil fuel under
the boiler this latter will be shown in the chap-
;
Fig. 6. SMALL VERTICAL ENGINE.

ters devoted to boilers. There are no figured

dimensions on this engine, so the maker is left to
follow his own ideas in regard to them. As may
be seen, the columns are turned all over, and
threaded for nuts at each end. The holes in the
bed-plate and entablature are no larger than the
thread, so that the latter fits tightly in them, and
the several plates are made of sheet-brass, highly
polished. cylinder-head and
The screws in the
steam-chest covers have screw-driver heads, and
the piston is solid, with no packing whatever ;
it
merely the cylinder tightly. The steam-pipe
fits
is tV bore, and the steam-ports are iV wide by 1
long. The slide valve has uV lap over the ports,

each end, and the exhaust-port is i of i inch wide.
With such minute dimensions as these it is not
possible to cast the ports in, so the whole cylinder
is cast solid, and bored out in the lathe. The
ports are made by drilling in the end of the cyl-
inder at the proper place and on the valve face,
and the metal between the holes cut out with a
small drift.
cannot be said of such engines that they are
It
of any particular use but they serve as studies
;
in work and close fitting, for as this en-

small
gine makes some 2,000 revolutions per minute,
it must be well made to stand the racket. The
entire height of it is 8 inches, and width of base
3^ inches. Horizontal engines are shown, as a
type of modern engines, in the plates to follow,
which can be made of any dimensions to suit the
i6 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
views of the maker. The bed-plate is cast in

one piece, faced in the lathe on the end where
the cylinder is fastened, and has a single eccen-
tric directly connected to the valve-stem without
any rocker arm. A good proportion for it is to

make the cylinder i\ inch diameter by 3 inches
stroke, ports T\ wide by i inch long, exhaust-
port I wide by i inch long, and lap of valve i on
each end. The eccentric should have &
throw,
have a hole \ inch diameter for the shaft, and
be 1 2 inch diameter over all, with a groove, I
of an inch wide by iV deep the straps for the
;
eccentric should be of brass.

A
more elaborate plan with figured dimensions
is shown on page 6i,.et seq.
CHAPTER IV.
TORPEDO-BOAT engines, so called, are simply

verticalengines of the type shown in Fig. 6, being
very light and driven at very high speed as to
revolutions. There are no other peculiarities
about them. They are all steel as to the connec-
tions ;
and the and connecting-
shafts, piston-rods,
rods are hollow to reduce the weight of them,
and, it is needless to say, are built in the very
best manner.
Of course there are innumerable other classes
of engines in use to some extent, but those
shown are the principal ones. Oscillating en-
gines are no longer used for any purpose, except
here and there for small pumps or other special
work. Neither are vibrating engines, so-called,
which have a piston like a door swinging on its
hinges, or square cylinder engines, which consist
of two rectangular pistons (one inside the other),
moving in a square cast-iron box. I do not
show these engines for they are in the nature of
;
freaks, and are of no particular interest when

made. Nothing is to be seen externally except
square or round cast-iron boxes, without any
finish or moving parts. The same is true of the
rotary engine. It is merely a more or less com-
18
plicated wheel (or piston) revolved by steam in a

cylindrical case, and takes a lot of steam to run
it. That is why it is not in use.
Now having shown several types of modern
engines, or those in daily use doing the work of
the world, let us look at the methods used to pro-
duce them. The drawings are the first thing, and
these have been mentioned, but after the drawings
c^
come the patterns for the castings. These can be

made by amateurs with ample time and facilities,
but, as a rule, they should not be attempted for
;
they involve special knowledge as to facility of

moulding them, and fine finish to produce smooth
castings. Moreover, the patterns for model work
are so small that they will cost very little, and it
is better in all cases to
get them made by reg-
ular pattern-makers. A steam-cylinder with cored
ports cannot be made* by amateurs, and must be
got from men skilled in the business. For very
small work no patterns are needed, for much of
it can be cut out of the solid
quite as quickly as
from a casting.
The next thing to be considered is the tools to
be used, and this is an important matter. It is
quite useless to undertake to do good work with-
out the proper tools, sharp files, reamers, and
screw-cutting tools. These last are now made
so cheaply, and with such excellent threads and
dies, that no amateur should be without a set.
Where it can be avoided there is no need of cut-
ting a thread in the lathe, for small rods are very
2O SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
hard to handle in this way. But a few years ago

there was nothing better to be had than a Stubbs's
jam-plate, so-called, because it made a thread by
pushing or jamming the metal in ridges ahead of
it;
but the modern screw-sets cut long shavings
out of the metal as they advance, and are far
better and quicker for amateurs than threads cut
with a tool in a lathe.
Lathes themselves vary greatly, and some are
not worth the room they occupy. Where money
is no there is no excuse for having a bad
object
lathe and while they can be bought for almost
;
any price (foot-power lathes are alluded to), it is

better to get a modern lathe of the Pratt and
Whitney, or Gisholt Machine Company's make
than a mere trap which never by any chance turns
anything the same size for three consecutive
inches. Cheap lathes cost about $60, those with
slide rests, so-called, and screw-cutting gear,
but a good reliable tool will cost from $150 to
$250; but it is complete in all parts, with many
extra fixtures for doing work not belonging to
lathes usually, such as milling, gear-cutting, angle-
plates for facing, etc., and is well worth the extra
cost. Some of the better class of lathes are fitted
with small countershafts carried on standards set
in the top of the table, so as to drive special
cutters or emery wheels for surface grinding. For
ambitious amateurs these are the tools to buy ;
although it is not to be denied that good work

can be done on cheap lathes if men are skilful,
and are willing to spend the extra time required.

When it considered
is that one buys such a tool
for a lifetime it is better to have a good one than
a bad one.
To dilate further upon the work that it is possi-
ble to do in a lathe, we may instance the plane sur-
face of the valve seat of an engine, and any flat
surface usually executed in a shaper or planer, or
else slowly and laboriously removed by chipping
and filing. The cylinder of the engine alluded to
is 3^ inches from the centre in its widest part, so
it will not
swing on what is called a 6-inch lathe ;
but few lathes are as small as this, and if the

owner of one has no better means of doing the
work in question, he can raise the head and put
half an inch of wood under lengthening the belt
it,
temporarily. Supposing, however, that the lathe

will swing it, the cylinder is chucked on the face-
plate, or in any way that will hold it, with the valve
seat out it can then be faced fair and true the
;
the same as any other flat surface. The steam-

ports should be filled with strips of wood to keep
the tool from gouging or jumping in. The seat
for the steam-chest, which is lower than the valve
face, can be squared for a short distance so as to
indicate the depth, the rest of the metal being
removed by filing.
Face-plates are very essential tools, and these
can be made in a lathe easily, up to the full diam-
eter that the lathe will swing. Get a couple of
cast-iron disks, made as large as are needed, j inch
thick. Have them cast the face side down so that

they willbe without blow-holes, and also have
a projection on the back i inch deep by 3 inches
diameter. This is handy to chuck them in the
lathe by, and convenient for use on vice-work.
Turn these disks all over to remove the outer
skin, and when the working or true face is dressed
off rub chalk all over it, and hold a straight edge
on it when running slowly in the lathe. This
will show at once whether the plate is concave or
convex, and the workman must rectify it if needed.
Now make another plate in the same way, and hav-
ing trued both so that they are fair all over, put a
little flour
emery and oil on the faces and grind
them together. This will give dead-true surfaces,
and be available for any piece of work that is
required to be an exact plane.
The tasks of the amateur are materially lessened
and increased accuracy assured by the infinite
variety of small tools, gauges, drills, scales, etc.,
which abound in tool stores, and every one en-
gaged in machine work should have a full outfit
of them. It is useless to try to make them with
the same accuracy that can be found in those
purchased.
CHAPTER V.
THE ENGINE DETAILS.
WHEN getting castings for an engine, don't take

them to the nearest foundry that makes any kind
of castings, but send them to some concern that
makes a specialty of small machine-castings. If
a contrary course is pursued one is very likely to
get hard iron, full of scabs and with bad faces on
them. One concern will make castings for 4
cents per pound while the other will charge 10
or more cents, but the latter is much the cheapest
in the end.
Now, suppose we have the castings all in hand
and ready for machine, we naturally take the cylin-
der first because there is a good deal of work to
be done on it. Chuck it in the lathe by the
flange, and face off the opposite flange. Then
take it out, and turn the other flange out and face
that. If the cylinder has been well cast, and the
pattern properly made, there will be about tV of

an inch to bore out of it. Run one heavy cut
through it to within yV of the
proper size, and see
if there are
any blow-holes in it. If there are,
and scabby places besides, caused by the core not
being properly vented, condemn the casting at
23
once. Do not try to fill the holes up with lead

or anything else, for it will be sure to come out
when steam is let on. A bad casting cannot be
made sound with putty. If the surfaces are all
correct, try the bore to see if it is parallel. Some
lathes bore largest on the outside of a hole and
some on the inside or bottom this is caused by
;
the lathe-head (or spindle) not being true with

the ways, and can be easily cured by putting slips
of paper on the ways under the lathe-head where
it is needed to
square it with the ways on the bed.
This should be done before the last cut is taken
out, and when the bore is verified the last cut
needed to bring the cylinder to size should be
made. Do not change the position of the tool
in any way after taking the cut, but bring it out,
and let it run through again on a quicker speed
to scrape the surface over. It must be borne in
mind that boring a cylinder is a continuous opera-
tion. The lathe must not be stopped on a cut in
the middle of the cylinder and started again, for
that will make a ridge in it.
Having the cylinder properly bored, counter-
bore it, as shown by the drawing, TV of an inch
below the upper end of the steam-port. Do not
make the mistake that some do, and counterbore
to the bottom of the steam-port, for that will make
the piston leak badly. The piston travels to
within yV of an inch of the cylinder-head, conse-
quently it travels over the port if the upper end
;
is counterbored to the bottom of the port that

takes away the bearing of the piston at a very

important part. The bottom of the cylinder must
also be counterbored, and it can easily be done
from the front end.
The cylinder-flange must now be turned exter-
nally to the right size, and the end of the steam-
chest also faced. It will be seen, page 53, the
lower head of this cylinder is very small, and where
it enters the
cylinder is only ii inches diameter.
This hole must of course be bored at the same
time that the cylinder is for the piston-rod goes
;
through it, and it must be true with the cylinder-

bore. While the cylinder is in the chuck, take a
boring- tool with a square nose about i of an inch
wide, and trim off the edges of the steam-port
where it enters the bore.
In all these operations go slow, but go sure.
Do not attempt to hurry anything beyond its
proper speed. Do not spring the cylinder by screw-
ing it up hard in the chuck-jaws, and be absolutely
certain that the chuck is true on its faces, if the
work bears on the jaws of the chuck. If the chuck
is not true, trouble will be
experienced when the
engine is
put together. The flanges will be out of
parallelism, and every job done on the lathe will
be wrong and hard to locate as to the cause of
the difficulty.
The bracket on the side for the support of the
cylinder must be faced off on the bottom side
before the cylinder is removed from the chuck
after boring and, as the cylinder cannot be re-
;
volved completely in the lathe, the belt must be

thrown off, and the face-plate revolved, or oscil-
lated, by hand, running the tool in as far as possi-
ble, and chipping- and scraping the surface true
where the lathe-tool does not reach. This detail
is
important, for if it is not well done the cylinder
will not stand square with the guides without a
great deal of trouble to make it so.
Now, having the cylinder bored, faced, and
turned on its flanges, chuck it so that the valve-
face is out, and true that up as explained a few
pages back. Possibly the universal chuck will not
take the cylinder, owing to the flanges and pro-
jections being in the way of the jaws, in which
case it must be chucked on the face-plate, and
supported by blocks so that it will be firm. If the
lathe is large enough a small angle-plate can be
put on the face-plate, and a bolt run through the
cylinder-bore to hold it.
The exhaust-nozzle must be similarly dealt with,
for this has not been cored out by the pattern-
maker, but has been left solid. The cylinder must
be chucked with the nozzle-end out, and a drill
run in as far as it is safe to go, taking care not to
run into the cylinder walls. There will then be
left a blank end which has to be drilled and
chipped
out to meet the exhaust-port in the cylinder. This
can be done after the cylinder is removed from the
lathe. The size of the exhaust-pipe is ? of an inch
inside, and the nozzle must be threaded for the
steam fittings of this size. This thread has to be
cut in the lathe a pipe tap will not enter the full
;
size, for the hole is not deep enough. The cylin-

der-heads are straight-away jobs, as to the upper
one, which is common turning. The lower head
has the piston-rod running through it, and should
be chucked with the stuf-
Valve Stem
fing-box in toward the
face-plate. The hole for
the rod is then bored,
and the head faced and
turned to fit the hole in
the cylinder-bottom. It
may then be put on an

arbor and threaded for
the stuffing-box gland,
turned and finished all
over, and then, taken off
the arbor, re-chucked, and
the recess for the packing
o the head
bored out, truincr
by the outer flange.
The steam-chest can
now be put in the lathe
and faced off on both
sides, and turned on the
end. The stuffincr-box
o is
screwed into the end of

the chest, and is more easily made in that way
than if it were cast on solid.
It should be said here, that matters should be
so arranged that all the lathe work can be done
at one time, instead of breaking off and going at

the other fittings, if dispatch is any object. The
be ready for- fitting and for drill-

details will then
ing without unnecessary delay.
In fitting on the heads, and all details where
bolts go through two parts, both pieces should be

drilled together. Sometimes clamps have to be
Employed for this work, in others one or two holes
^an be drilled first, bolts put in of the right size
and screwed up, then the other holes drilled.
V i
fori
^
LJ i
x ^3%-"- -Bottonr-of-Ghest ^
In drilling all holes that are blind, that is, are

not through holes, look out and not go too far ;
measure the exact depth of the hole, and make

a slight mark on the drill shank as a guide in
drilling.
Inmaking bolts for studs that are to be screwed
"
in get Bessemer rods," so-called, which is very
soft machine steel ;
never use common iron wire
for this purpose.Cut bolts to the right lengths,
all
and round the ends over, holding them in the

chuck while cutting the threads on the ends.
unnecessary to make hexagon nuts nowa-
It is
days, as they can be had in tool stores down to

tV of an inch in diameter. Stove bolts for ordi-
nary common work, where parts out of sight are
merely held together, can be bought very cheaply,
down to i of an inch they come in all shapes
;
nearly, button head and countersink, and are very

handy for general work.
This is also true of machine screws, so-called.
They come in all sizes, both brass and iron, with
heads of all shapes, and fit standard size threads ;
not always do they fit the taps however.

In the foregoing directions, it is understood that
reference is made to the launch engine, Figs, i,
2, and 3, and apply to it wholly; but in so far as
general work or execution of work is concerned

they apply to any other engine, or to any other
machine which has similar details. It may be
remarked also, as a truism, that all machine work
under heavy strains, especially where reciprocat-
^ OF THE^\ '
r
UNlVERSltY
&HfQ^'
ing, or vibrating, or high rotary speeds are involved

"
must be iron and
iron," so called, as to contact
of parts. No "liners" or false strips of metal of
any kind must be interposed, and there must not
be any false holes either. Every hole drilled in
two parts that are one part in the end must be
diametrically opposite the other. Absolute integ-
must or the work is worthless when
rity prevail
done.
CHAPTER VI.
FURTHER DETAILS.
be observed that the frame of the engine

IT will
is squared top and bottom, and this can be done
by chipping and filing but it is wiser to take it to
;
a machine shop and have it planed, where such

facilities exist, for it and the guides must be
square with each other.

In this engine, and all small engines in fact,
the design must be so arranged as to the machine
work that it is certain to be square without lining
up. It is impossible to line up small .engines of
3-inch bore and under, for the parts are inacces-

sible, and ordinary eyes cannot see small devia-
tions. Moreover, it is not necessary to use lines ;
squares, for straight plane surfaces at right angles,

are better. If every surface is true, the parts will
come together accurately, and the engine will be
noiseless in action. As a rule, small engines
"pound" like sewing-machines, and make as
much noise as type-writers. The reason for this
is that they are out of truth all over.
I have been explicit in these directions, perhaps
diffuse, for the reason that works purporting to
give directions to make small engines abound,

33
and, as a matter of fact, give no directions at all,

or very superficial ones at best. Skilled work-
men, of course, know how to do machine work
correctly, and are aware of the penalties of doing-
it
incorrectly but as this work is intended for
;
amateurs who are not supposed to have great

experience in all lines, I have thought it better
to give full directions to produce good results.
Persons who "know it all" do not buy books;
it is
only those who wish to learn and are willing
to learn who
profit by them.
To return to the engine work we have now ;
got our cylinder and its heads out and the steam-
chest partly finished, and may turn to the piston
and its rod. The latter is made of machine steel
and is threaded on both ends
one where it screws
;
into the piston,and one where it screws into the

cross-head, with a check nut to keep it from turn-
ing next to the latter.
These threads must be cut in the lathe and a
tap made with finer threads than the average ma-
chine tap for this size hole. The thread should
be not less than 20, and need not be over i inch
long with just enough taper to start it in square.
The piston (see page 47), is screwed on the rod
and the end of the latter riveted over, a hexa-
gon on the top of the piston being to screw the
rod into the cross-head. The piston is a mere
disk without packing, and is made as
light as pos-
sible to keep the
engine in balance, for the weight
is
chiefly on top. No packing should be put in
Fig. 9.
small pistons, but they should the cylinder

fit
tightly ;
the leakage amounts to or nothing.
little
The piston-rod, and everything else to be turned,

must have drilled centres in it, and be cut to the
proper length so that the centres will remain, and
the piston should be turned all over inside and
out. It is of cup form, inverted, which makes a
little more clearance on the under side, a matter
of no moment.
The cross-head comes next, Fig. 9, and this is
made of cast-iron with brass gibs these last are
;
made by counter-sunk machine screws tapped

fast
into the cross-head. No adjustment is required for
wear, since the surfaces are very large for an en-
gine of the size, but when needed pieces of paper
can be placed between the gib and cross-head. It
works closely, but freely in the guides, so that
there is no lost motion. The cross-head can be
wholly made in the lathe, the faces of the jaws
being faced parallel by centring them, and put-
ting them between the centres, or by putting the
cross-head upon the face-plate the ends being
;
turned true it is chucked and the hole for the rod

drilled and tapped. The wrist-pin hole is then
bored, and the job is complete except finishing,
and drilling and tapping the holes for the gib-
screws these last should be of brass.
;
All the pins, cross-head, and crank, and those

for the link motion, should be made of steel, and
carefully turned to standard sizes to fit reamers
or reamed holes,
Fig. IQ,
The crank-pin should have a I hole bored

through it to lighten it up, and it must be a driv-
ing fit in the crank-eye. When put in the crank-
eye is to be heated a little so as to expand it, the
pin inserted, and riveted over afterward the shaft;
is also of machine steel finished all over.
The connecting-rod is forged of steel in one

piece, and has a lug on one side for a binding-
screw to take up slight wear. In all high-speed
engines everything must be as simple and as solid
as possible to avoid their working loose. The
crank- pin brass is therefore made in one piece
like a bush, driven in to the connecting-rod end
and slotted the distance-piece between the lugs
;
goes through this slot, and the screw holds all fast.
The bush is then reamed to size and the rod is;
attached by slipping it over the pin, the nut and

washer on the end making all secure.
Now, boring the crank-pin and shaft-holes in
in
the crank itself, the greatest care must be taken
to have them absolutely true and square. This
is one of the most important jobs about the en-
gine and if it is not rightly done the engine

;
will
never work smoothly, and the error can never be
remedied without a new crank. The way to do
this job is as follows:
See that the face-plate is absolutely true before
beginning it, and do not allow the least imper-
fection in truth to exist. Then bore the shaft
hole,and face the crank true all over. Then, hav-
laid out its length from centre to centre pre-
ing
Fig, zx,
viously, reverse the crank and put the face-side

next to the face-plate, with the crank-eye in the
centre in position to be drilled, being sure that
the crank is flat
against the face-plate all over.
t-J *'<
The eccentrics are of cast-iron, and can be all

finished in the lathe without any trouble at all.
Chuck them true, and face them off both sides,
then bore the hole on one side for the shaft.
CHAPTER VII.
WE must now consider the link and its con-

nections and in this job the amateur will have an
;
opportunity to show his ability or the want of it,

for it is a very important detail. It must work
freely in all parts, and yet have no lost motions

;
the link-block must bear squarely on both faces

of the link, fit closely, and slide easily the pins
;
in the lugs must be a tight fit without binding,

and the whole, though made of many pieces, be
as if it was in one piece. The first thing to be
done is to face both sides in the lathe to an equal
thickness, then lay off the radius or curve of the
link to the size marked on the drawing and then
the several holes. These, and all other holes
drilled, must be standard sizes, and allowance of f
made for reaming them. After the holes are
reamed they must be lapped out, as it is called,
in order to obtain a perfect surface for these bear-
;
ings have a great deal of work to do.

Lapping is accomplished in this instance by
casting a piece of lead i inch in diameter and 3
inches long put it in the chuck, and turn one end
;
to the size of the hole, and about i inch long.

Then apply oil and the finest flour emery or cro-
cus, and polish the interior as smooth as possible.
41
Run the lathe on the highest speed, and keep the

work moving back and forth, turning it all the
while. When the pins that go in the hole are
fitted they should be similarly treated, so that they
._#_'
1 of this
l<
iron forged to size of both jaws, and then drill the

slot as shown in the sketch. This makes it handy
and drill the holes for the taps
to turn the ends, ;
and both jaws are exactly alike then, the drilled
Cut here
I
slot being, of course, cut out square and filed true,

the jaws being separated afterward by
dividing
into two parts.
The link-block should be made of hard brass,
well hammered before tooling to condense it, and

it must fitthe slot in the link accurately. To do
this it will be necessary to use a scraper, for no
files can be used on small high places.
In drilling- O the holes for the steam-chest bolts,
great care must be taken also. Drill the chest
first, then put it on the cylinder, and drill two holes
on opposite ends through the chest-holes in the
flange, or steam-chest seat, on the cylinder; tap
these holes out, and screw the bolts that belong
in them down hard. Then drill the rest of the
holes through the chest into the flange it is only
;
necessary to drill far enough to mark the position

of the holes accurately, using a drill the full size
of the hole in the chest and afterward substituting
the drill for the tap. If this is properly done, every
bolt will go in square and true if it is not
; prop-
erly done, much trouble will be found in getting
the bolts in. The cover can be drilled in the
same way.
These instructions seem to an expert workman
unnecessary; but they are not to amateurs, to whom

this book is addressed it is from the small things,
;
apparently small, that great annoyances and extra

work arises if they are not properly executed.
The valve should also be of hard brass put in ;
the vice, and face it off to the proper length as

shown by the drawing, being careful to keep the
ends or port faces of the same length from the
exhaust-port. Measure this cavity, and see if it
is as wide as the inside edges of the ports on the
r TT+-
cylinder, as per diagram, having, of course, dressed

out the cylinder ports with file and chisel so that
they are square and true then put the valve in
;
the chuck and square the working face true.

When this is done try the face-plate on the cyl-
inder and dress it fair, and do the same by the
valve, scraping both to an accurate fit. No emery
must be used on this job, as it will run down into
the ports and be blown into the cylinder when the
engine is put to work. The nut on the valve-stem
which drives the valve must fit the lugs on the
back closely, yet not stiff enough to cock the
valve when it is driven back and forth at high
speed.
The piston-rod must be carefully turned and
threaded for both the cross-head and the piston,
and the latter must be screwed on hard to its seat,
the rod riveted over, and both put in the centres
and finished to size, the rod being draw-filed at the
last operation.
Do not make any mistake about this job, such
as thinking it will make no difference if the lathe
centres run out a little bit. It will make the great-

est difference, a fraction of an inch, a very small
one, of error will make parts bind when they are
assembled, and it will be hard to discover where
the bind is. Absolute truth in work is of the first
importance, then there will be no binding and no;
fussing with files in the wrong place when assem-

bling.
The shaft should be turned to the proper size
and finished all over, the crank-end being left the

thickness of a piece of letter-paper larger than the
bore of it. The crank should then be heated
Handle
/; Here
REVERSE GEAR.
slightly, enough to and the crank

expand it,
slipped on ;
when it is be solid in its
cold it will
place, but a quarter-inch hole should be drilled at

the junction of the crank and shaft and a steel pin
4? SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
driven in tightly. This pin must be turned to fit,

or it will work out when running.
Now suppose that all the parts are finished and
ready to put together. The first thing to be done
is to set the cross-head between the guides in
the centre of them, measure top and bottom, and

screw the frame up solidly on it with a couple of
clamps, one on each side, being careful not to
spring the frame, and being sure to screw up
fairly on both sides. Observe also that the top
and bottom of both frames bear fairly, as shown
on a straight edge held across them and that they
are square sidewise with the cross-head. It might
be thought that the cross-head would prevent any
distortion of surfaces by reason of its long bear-
ings and its width but this is not the case, and
;
every operation must be verified before proceeding

to the next one.
CHAPTER VIII.
HAVING the frame square and true in its place,

set the cylinder inits place, with the bottom head
on, and put in the piston and rod. See if the rod
enters the cross-head fairly, and screws down in it
easily without any bind or twist. Then examine
the position of the cylinder with regard to the
brackets and their bearing upon the head of the
frame. A very slight coating of red paint on
the under side of the brackets should be used, and
the cylinder moved, or twisted a little sidewise,
when the actual bearina-s will be shown. These
.
last must be iron and iron, each part setting

squarely on the other if this is not done when
;
the bolts are put in and screwed up there will be

great distortion of the parts, and the cylinder will
be thrown out of line with the guides. The noise-
less action of the engine depends upon the ac-
curacy with which the work is done. No liners,
pieces of tin or brass, must be put in between the
brackets and frame all must be in actual contact.
;
It is now in order to set the cylinder and frame on

the bed-plate where it belongs, the holes having
been previously drilled in the lugs on the bottom
for the bolts. The frame must be carefully cen-
tred with a centre-line, drawn on the bed-plate
49
where the centre of the shaft comes, so that the

crank revolve equally, and the crank-shaft and
will
pillow-block set in place to square by, or from.
-1
-,
-f:
Bed Plate
-T 1- h
^xgi Center of Shaft Bearing
[
" 6-
C. of Cylinder
BED PLATE, 3" x 4".
When this is done, take a

sharp scriber and mark
through the holes in the lugs onto the bed-plate
to locate the holes. This must be very carefully
done indeed, and is a job for an expert mechanic,

for there is no alteration possible after the holes
are drilled. They must be reamed for turned bolts
and no oblong, filed-out-on-one-side holes will
answer. Unless the workman is absolutely certain
of his ability to do this work properly, he should
take the job to a shop where there are good work-
men, and then watch the good workmen.
This holds good with the holes for the pillow-
block also, every detail must be square and true
with every other detail when it is so the builder
;
can turn his back on the engine at work and not

know that there is one in the vicinity. The
holes in the brackets on the cylinder must have
been drilled prior to settingit in
place when it
;
is
finally adjusted, so that the cross-head works
properly in the guides, put clamps on the brack-
ets and frame so as to hold it firmly then try the
;
cross-head again to see if the cylinder has been

shifted during the operation, then drill the frame
through the holes in the bracket and when the
;
bolts are put in everything will be solid iron and

iron, and the engine will be in line all over.
There are difficulties connected with drilling
these holes just named in a lathe on account of
;
the size and shape of the parts they cannot be

brought to the drill readily; where this is the
case the job must be taken to a machine-shop
where there is an upright drill-press.
CHAPTER IX.
THIS engine, if constructed according to the

drawings furnished (not mere designs, but work-
ing drawings from which an engine has been
made), will deliver 5-horse-power easily at 800
revolutions per minute with 150 pounds steam-
pressure even more than that, but this is a fair
;
average. Such an engine will drive a 2 5 -foot

boat by 5 feet beam, or width, 8 miles an hour,
carrying 20 persons, or it will drive a small machine
shop with several lathes, drills, and other tools
in it.
it is not desired to build so

If large an engine,
the amateur can exactly halve the proportions all
through and make a very neat model. This would
give a cylinder i^ inches diameter by 2 inches
stroke and the link motion can be omitted, using
;
instead of it a single eccentric, with no reverse

motion, directly connected to the valve-stem.
If a horizontal engine is preferred, a design for
the cylinder of it, ii inches by 3 inches is given
(page 58) the other proportions used in the ver-
;
tical will
engine also answer for this engine.
Changing the position of the cylinder makes no
difference in the sizes.
No bolts need be made for these engines
o unless
they are under i of an inch, for machine screws are

so universally used that they can be had of all sizes
in any tool store; the same is true of nuts. Bicycle
parts, or nuts at all events, can be had nickel-
plated, if needed, down to i of an inch in size.
The crank-pin connection shown in the details
of the 3 -inch cylinder is so made from the fact
that the rotative speed is high, and it is necessary
to avoid all parts that are liable to get loose, but
another form of connection which admits of greater
adjustment is here shown which requires careful

attention to make it
properly. It is
commonly
used upon large vessels. For those who cannot
get forgings made a connecting-rod made in part
of steel, or iron rods, is given.
Referring to small parts suppose it is necessary
to have a check-valve for a small boiler, the
water-passage being not larger than | of an inch.
Then get a brass rod inch in diameter and I
long, and put it in the chuck. Drill a hole ^
in it I deep, then drill a i hole through it. The
larger hole must be drilled first, for its bevel forms

the valve-seat, and being held steadily makes the
seat true and without chatters. Now take a small
tool and enlarge the tk hole to I just around the
seat where the valve comes. This leaves a cham-
ber inside, and the thread for the cap or pipe-
connection to the valve-chamber is to be cut on
this with a chaser. In the end of the cap which
is screwed into the valve-chamber a hole ith in
diameter is to be drilled for the end of the valve

spindle as a guide, and the valve is made from
a brass rod, in an obvious way, ground to its seat.
Cocks are made in the same way from brass rod
large enough for the job, or from small castings.
Small pipes of any thickness metal can be had
from pencil-case makers who draw tubing of ^V
bore if needed. These are silver soldered, and
tight against ordinary pressures. They cost very
little.
It must be borne in mind that

simply turning
or boring objects or details to size does not imply
that they fit each other, for in most cases they do
not. Fitting means that the several details are in
absolute contact over their whole surfaces a very
;
different matter from merely filling holes without

It is not so
shaking. easy to fit a round pin to a
round hole when they are of small diameter, either
by turning or filing, and the only quick and sure
way is to grind the parts together. To do this
well requires experience and patience ;
it is not
a job that can be forced or driven but must
go
naturally along through regular stages. The

holes are, we will say, i inch in diameter now ;
having drilled them closely to the size, take a

reamer and ream them out, which will make them
cylindrical at least. Then turn the pins full to
the size, so they will push in tightly, and then
apply oil and floated crocus to the surface, rotat-
ing the work and drawing the pin in and out
during the operation. This is very soon done,
and the time taken is well expended if a fine job
is
required but the work must be thoroughly
;
washed when completed, so that none of the

grinding material remains on it.
Another method of fitting is to scrape the sur
faces so thatthey are in contact, and for an

amateur this is far easier than it is to file them.
Scrapers are of two forms practically, a flat nose
and a triangular point, made by grinding a saw-
file
slightly convex on the point also a diamond-
;
J3oint hand-tool can be used to good advantage.

The main brasses of the engine, shown in previous
chapters, are bored to size but they must be fitted
to the shaft bearing carefully, so that they will not
heat or pound at high speeds. They are bored
together in the pillow-block they go in, and each
half must then be taken out and tried on the shaft
with a very slight coating of red-lead on the
journal by rubbing the brass on this it will be
;
seen that they are very far from fitting, even

though the bore is apparently smooth and true.
All the inaccuracies must be taken out by scrap-
ing.
o The same course must be followed with the
valve and seat.
Amateurs may use a return-crank motion to
drive the slide-valve instead of an eccentric, for
in some places it is very convenient. A return-
crank is shown in Fig. 6, and is very simple to
make but it must be used with a valve without
;
lap, as it can only have a very small lead or open-

ing-,
as will be seen from its construction and prin-
ciple. The stroke of the valve can be materially
changed by moving the shaft end of the return-
crank to or from the centre of it, but the lead
remains practically the same. For a small hori-
zontal engine the return-crank is very satisfactory.
The design herewith is similar to that of the
Corliss engine with the exception of the valve,
which is a slide. The cylinder bolts directly onto
the end of the frame; and the pillow-block and
guides are bolted to the bed-plate by screws, as
shown. The guide is a tubular casting, bored and
reamed true in the lathe, and faced and turned
true on one end before removing it from the
chuck. This end fits the cylinder and forms the
front head, so that when the parts are put together
there is no lining up to be don.e, and the cylinder
is absolutely in line with the After the
guides.
guides are bored they are cut open by drilling
along the central line, and on the edges of the cut
a brass rod slotted or sawed for its whole length
is fitted. This hides the raw edge and makes a
neat finish or an iron rod can be used if preferred.
;
CHAPTER X.
ONE-HORSE POWER HORIZONTAL ENGINE.
IN this example of a horizontal engine all the

work can be done on a lathe, which is a matter of
some importance to an amateur without facilities
for planing ;
of any extent is
filing true surfaces
also a tedious and sometimes an unsatisfactory
job ;
engine the cylinder, valve-face, steam-
in this
chest, and guides are
all completed in the lathe,
and the guides are accurately centred in place,
is no
so that there lining up to be done to make
them come exactly true. The cross-head is also
turned in the lathe and, in a few words, the fitting
and vice work is reduced to a very small quantity.
Any amateur who is a fair lathe-hand can make a
nice piece of work out of this design.
It is proper to make a few remarks here about
the power of these small engines. As generally
made they are mere toys, of no value except to
look at a few times and are then thrown aside ;
but this is not the case with the example shown.

The reason for the inutility of small engines is
that they are not designed to do any work, but
are hastily thrown together, with inadequate bear-
ings and wearing surfaces they speedily work
;
58
6o SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
bQ
loose all over and are mere rattle-traps and eye-

sores to mechanics. The boilers used with them
are of no value either, and are incapable of gen-
erating steam enough at high pressures to do any
1
work. With the boiler shown (of the vertical

type) this horizontal engine will easily deliver i-
horse power at 600 revolutions per minute and
100 pounds steam pressure and it will do good
;
service for years properly managed, notwith-

if
standing that the piston is only i\ inches in di-

ameter. A
small piston running at high speed
with reasonable pressure (not under 75 or 100
pounds) will do a good deal of work the author
;
has in mind one of 2^ inch cylinder by 6-inch

stroke which, with only 40 pounds steam pressure,
runs a small wagon-maker's shop, having lathe,
drill press, and
bolt-cutting machines. The cost
for fuel is nothing, while the advantage of having
power at hand enables men with small shops to

earn a good deal more than they could with hand
labor alone.
In this horizontal engine all the bearings are
larger than strict proportions require, but that is
an error on the right side, and, while it is not
contended that this engine is fitted to drive a
small shop, unless it be for amateur work, it has
the ability to do so on occasion if required. It
will readily drive a 1 6-inch engine lathe, or a bolt-
cutting machine up to i -inch diameter of bolt.

Referring to the engine itself patterns will
have to be made for all the cast-metal details;
*.
I18,"
Shaft
fl*
M-J
*
II
il
i i
I
I
Fig. 15. BED-PLATE OF HORIZONTAL ENGINE.

having these the execution of the work can pro-

ceed rapidly. In all jobs of this character the
object sought is to do as little useless work, or
re-handling as possible. All the lathe-work on
the cylinder should be done in sequence, as far
as it can be;
not a part at one time and another
subsequently. The cylinder, in this case, has no
ports cast in it, they being too small for handling
for the average moulder ;
they must, therefore, be
drilled in, as shown in the
drawings.
To do this put the cylinder in the vice and
roughly dress off the valve-face so that lines will
show on it. Get a piece of blue-stone, so called,
wet it and rub it over the valve-face this, when
;
dry, leaves a deposit of copper on the face of the

work so that lines will show clearly on it then ;
lay off the ports as per drawing. Having done

this get a drill T& smaller than the finished width
of the part and drill down to the depth shown
on the drawing, leaving but little metal between
the holes as shown. Then, having previously
laid off the ports on the ends of the cylinder, drill
through to meet the holes in the valve-face when

;
all the holes are drilled, make a drift, or

square-
ended chisel, and drive out the metal between the
holes. This operation requires care to make it
successful and there should be several drifts, each
a little wider than the rest, so that no great
amount of metal is removed at one cut. The end
of the port where it comes against the cylinder-
head is to be cut down to the bore, thus establish-
I
Fig. 1 6. VALVE GEAR OF HORIZONTAL ENGINE.

ing connection to the piston. There is ample

metal left in the bore to do this work, but ama-
teurs must be careful not to drill too far, or so
Fig. 17.
that the point of the drill would penetrate the

bore when it is completed. Cutting the ports
must be done first, so that subsequent operations
will not injure the faces.
If this job is got through with properly, chuck

the cylinder and face off the back end of it then ;
turn it end for end, and face the other end, and
square the flanges where the guides come.
This
should not be done to dimension at first, but
merely to get the heaviest part of the stock off.
Then run a cut through the cylinder and bore it
within sV of the size. Very few amateur lathes will
bore a true, parallel hole of any length, so it will
be necessary to make a bit to do this properly.
This bit is merely a reamer, and it leaves the bore
absolutely true and parallel. The engraving shows
the bit. It is merely in its simplest form a
wooden stock with a steel cutter inserted in it, and
as amateurs have little use for special tools, it is
made as shown to meet their needs. Take a piece
of any close-grained wood, maple or beech, about 6
or 8 inches long, and turn it as shown ;
make a saw-
cut the whole length of the boss, down to the centre,
and insert a piece of sheet-steel iV of an inch thick.
This must be filed off to the surface of the wood,
and backed off so that it will form a cutter;
harden
the steel to a violet-blue and, having started a cut
in the bore of the right size for J of an inch, put
in the reamer or bit and feed up on the tail-stock
screw. This will make a true bore as smooth as
a looking-glass x there is no occasion to counter-
;
bore this small cylinder, the heads fit right to the

bore. The flange and guide-seat are now to be
squared as the last thing, just scraped, so as to
bring them true with the bore, and the outside of
SMAJX ENGINES AND BOILERS. 67
the flange turned. It is well to be very careful on

this operation, for if the tool catches in running it
in or out, or in setting it, and the cylinder is shifted,
trouble will ensue it can never be set
;
exactly true
again, the only resource is to
put the cylinder on
an arbor, or mandrel, and square it in that way.
We have now to deal with the valve-seat and
steam-chest flanges, and to do this the cylinder
must be chucked so as to bring the valve-face in
the right position or the valve-face can be trued
;
by putting a piece of iron in the exhaust-port for

a centre, and another centre in the foot, or leg, on
the cylinder, to sustain it; this is much the easiest
way for an amateur and the quickest also but in ;
truing the bottom of the cylinder bearing, or foot,

care should be taken that the bore is exactly at
right angles with it. To attain this put a piece of
wood across the bore and mark the exact centre
of the cylinder on it ;
then swing the cylinder
against a fine-pointed tool in the tool-post and
centre it exactly be very careful in maintaining
;
the centres exactly while turning the flanges on

the valve-chest and the foot, for if the latter is not
square with the bore the cylinder will cock up in
front, or at the back, and the bearing on the end
of the guide where it is fastened to the bed-plate
will be a good deal out of the way ;
the thickness
of a piece of thin paper, even, on the cylinder-
foot, will throw the guide-foot off over TV of an
inch.
In squaring the flanges for the steam-chest seat
and the valve-face it will be noticed that the latter

is TV of an inch higher than the former ;
the ports
must be stopped with wood so that the tool will
not dodge into them and mar the edges.
Having the cylinder all dressed up in good
shape the steam-chest is to be taken in hand and
faced up. This can be done easily and quickly in
the chuck, and the whole work done without re-
moving it. Catch the chest by the outside of the
chuck-jaws in the bore of the chest (there is no
need to bore the chest inside) and turn it all over
outside and square the faces before removing it
;
from the chuck put a little fine emery on the face

and hold the cylinder up to it on a fast speed ;
this will grind both faces steam tight so that it will

not require a joint.
Mark this face and the cylinder-flange with a
small centre-punch so that it can be put on its own
face when assembling. Now take the steam-chest
cover and finish it up all over and grind it to the
steam-chest also while it is in the chuck scribe
;
a fine line on the face where the bolt holes are to

come, so that they will all be central. Do not
drill any hole in the chest-cover for an oil-cup,
none is needed. It will be seen that the valve-
stem stuffing-box screws into the chest, so that
the latter can be turned all over.
Now take the guide in hand and bore it out
with the same bit that was used on the cylinder,
for both are of the same size then put it on an
;
arbor (a wooden one will answer if it has metal

centres), and square up the flanges where they go

on the cylinder, and also the front end of the
it will serve to show whether the whole
guide ;
sets square on the bed-plate by using a try square

on the bed-plate in assembling.
It will be observed that the guide-flanges are
checked on the cylinder-flange, but the engraving
is so small that it doesn't show very plainly.
This is done to centre the guide with the bore, so
that when set on its seat, there will be no adjust-
ment required of any kind. The foot, or leg, on
the front end of the guide will have to be dressed
it cannot be
in the vise, as
square got at in the
lathe. Set up all the parts together, cylinder and
guide, and then put it on the bed-plate before
taking anything off of it, and do not drill the holes
in the cylinder-flange of the the
guide-bearing ;
guide-flanges should be drilled. When it is found

that both the feet are square on the bed-plate,
then the holes in the cylinder-flange can be
marked off carefully and drilled without this pre-
;
caution the cylinder and guide-flanges might be

set on a cock-bill.
Now let us take the crank-disk in hand this, ;
also, will require careful work. Turn the face

outside and on the edge, all over, then put the
face side next the face-plate, and bore the shaft-
hole, and face the hub at the same time. Then
lay off the crank-pin hole by scribing the centre
of it with a sharp-pointed tool exactly i inches
from the centre of the shaft. Remove the disk
1 8.
Fig.
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Jl
and lay out a f hole on this centre, and centre it

on the face-plate so that it is ready for boring.
Much depends on the integrity of this job for ;
if the crank-pin is not absolutely square with the

shaft, the engine will never work silently. The
crank-pin being out of square throws the connect-
ing-rod twice the amount of the untruth in a
revolution, and that, in turn, lifts or twists the
cross-head in the guides, a result that can never be
remedied in any way except by making a new
crank. In fitting the shaft to the hub leave it a
trifle larger than the hub, the merest shade that
can be felt, or so it will barely enter the hub, then
heat the latter enough to expand it, and put the
shaft in and let it cool ;
the shrinkage will hold it
securely, but there is a steel pin driven in, as
shown, to make sure. After the crank is shrunk
on in place, turn all the bearings and finish the
shaft to size, but do not turn it end for end in the
centres if these last run out a little bit, the bear-
;
ings will be out of truth with each other, the axes

will not coincide the crank-face and rim should
;
also be turned up and polished at the same time.

The crank-pin should be a driving fit and riveted
over on the crank-hub turn that end of the pin
;
slightly hollow so as to leave a raised rim all

round it by flattening this down on the crank,
;
very little hammering will be needed to make the

pin tight.
The pillow-block brasses are to be fitted in and
then bored to size, after which they are to be.
squared on a mandrel while in the block. Here

is where an angle-plate comes in very aptly on a
lathe, for by squaring the base of the pillow-block
in the vise, or between the centres (which is the

better way) the brass can be set on the angle-plate
,
and the brasses bored exactly to the distance

marked without using a mandrel.
Fig. ao.
The eccentriccan be faced on both sides,

turned on its diameter for the straps, and after-
ward shifted on one side I of an inch to bore the
shaft-hole. The straps should be cast in two parts,
faced on the lugs, then soldered together, and
the bolt-holes drilled the size of the tap-hole, en-
larging the other strap-hole subsequently the
;
straps are to be bored when soldered, and after-

ward melted apart. The hole for the eccentric-
rod can be drilled and tapped better when the
straps are asunder.
The valve can be faced in the chuck, although
it is so small that it is
just as easy to dress it in
the vise it should not be ground to the valve-
;
face, but scraped to a true bearing. The valve

gearing, rocker- arms, etc., require no explanation ;
they are all of steel, and the arms are made as

shown in the diagram on page 75 take a piece
;
of round machinery steel large enough for the

job and turn it up, as shown, to the outer dimen-
sions of the arm. Then file it off while still in
the chuck on opposite sides for the hubs. Do
not cut it off of the piece, but take it out of the
chuck, and drill the holes for the shafts through
the hub and for the pin having done this and
;
found out that the holes are parallel with each

other (by putting tight-fitting rods through them
and squinting across them), cut the arm off the
piece, put it on a small mandrel and square the
hubs true ;
the body of the arm can also be
turned flat for a short distance as a guide to filing
Fig. ai.
it
Very small details can be made in this
later.
way accurately which could not be readily handled

in any other way, neither caught in a vice or held
so as to shape them.
Now in drilling the holes for the steam-chest
and cylinder covers a word of caution will not be
amiss. Nothing causes more annoyance when
assembling than holes that do not come fair, and
tapped holes that will not admit the bolts because
they do not coincide. It is easy to avoid this
trouble by following this plan select the drill
:
to be used for the taps and drill the holes with

that first, clear through as far as it is to go, then
enlarge the holes the bolt is to pass through
afterward by doing this the bolts will enter fair
;
every time, and the bodies will be a snug fit to

the holes. Lay the holes off in the steam- chest
cover and the cylinder covers of this engine ac-
curately and mark the centres then drill two
;
holes on opposite sides and tap them for the

bolts. Put the parts together and screw them up
tight then
;
drill all the other holes clear
through,
as they are to be when complete.
In turning the piston see that it is a snug fit to
the cylinder there is no packing in it, for none is
;
needed but the piston must fit closely and yet

;
run free. The centres in the piston-rod must

be left in, and also in every piece that is turned,
and they must, in all cases, be drilled. No
centre-punch centres should ever be used for
anything.
It is proper to here call the amateur's attention

to amethod of finishing small cylindrical castings
where a scroll chuck is not available. In this case
a wooden chuck is made and bolted on the face-
Fig. 21.
plate ; then turned out so that the casting

it is
will drive in tightly, the
edges of the casting, or
flanges, being turned when on the cylinder.
Fig. 22.
The connecting-rod is a simple job, but the pin-

holes will have to be bored on a lathe which will
swing the rod. This rod is made with solid ends,
for the reason that the
engine runs very fast,

and small details will
work loose in spite of
good workmanship.
The crank end is
bushed and run a

will
long time without wear

if the pin is a good job
when first made when

;
it
gets too slack, it is
a very simple task to
put in another bush.
The cross-head is of
cast-iron with hard
brass gibs let into the
jaws, which are held
by two bolts in each
jaw. The cross-head
can be all squared and
trued up in the lathe,
and it should be finally
turned on its guide
faces when on the pis-
ton-rod. This may not
be possible on some amateur lathes, as it needs
a steady rest ;
cross-head can be
lacking this the
screwed into a short mandrel held in the chuck.
SO SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
The fly-wheel may seem small to some, but its

circumferential velocity is high, over 1,200 feet
Fig. 24-
minute 600 revolutions per minute, but it

at
per
is
amply strong to do its work. It is very neces-
sary that it should be absolutely true at this
a key sunk in
speed, and it should be secured by
the shaft; this key way must be cut before the
shaft is finally turned, or the cutting of it will
make the shaft run untrue.
This covers all the details of the horizontal
engine and, as stated in previous lines, it will be
Fig. 25.
found wholly satisfactory in action. The method

of setting the valve is the same as that shown for
the vertical engine.
Now let us consider a few points in regard to
finishing details which sometimes puzzle amateurs.
There are parts sometimes which are very thin
and have irregular outlines also these cannot be

;
caught in a vise, but must be treated as shown

I
4-
Fig. 26. FLY-WHEEL OF HORIZONTAL ENGINE.
in the
engraving. Get a piece of hard wood,
preferably of the right size, and plane it true on
one face ;
then nail a strip on the back about an
inch square to catch it in the vise. Take the
piece to be draw-filed and, laying it on the block,
drive brads in all around the edge, so as to have
a wedging or clamping action when driving sink ;
the heads below the work and there is then a

flush surface on the work which permits anything
to be done on it.
It sometimes happens that an engine will not
run when steam is turned on, and this has puzzled
a good many mechanics at times. The cause in
case is that the slide-valve is off its seat, or
every
cocked in some way by the valve-stem nut bind-
ing it so that it will not seat square. Sometimes
it is caused the in the
by gland stuffing-box being
untrue whatever the cause it must be removed
;
or cured before the engine will work properly,

and this caution is given to enable those who may
have any trouble to find and remove it.
CHAPTER XI.
SETTING THE ECCENTRICS.
SOMETIMES persons are puzzled in setting the

eccentrics of engines, and do not get them in the
right place on the shaft without a great deal of
labor; not even then sometimes; but the matter
is a
very simple one, and easily understood. It
does not take so long to do the work as to tell
how it should be done.
An eccentric is merely a disk with its bore
on one side of its mathematical centre, and has,
from this fact, an eccentric, or irregular motion ;
but it has no other peculiarity, or special fitness,

for opening and closing steam-valves. It is no
more or less than a continuous or circular crank,
where crank and pin are combined in one body.
It is supposed to have, by some, an
irregular
velocity, but this is not correct, for any given
point in its body moves at a regular speed around
the shaft, the same as a crank-pin does.
There is a long side and a short side to an
eccentric, so to speak, and the side nearest the
shaft does move more slowly than the long or
opposite side, but the velocity of the wheel itself
is
regular around the shaft as before stated the
;
only variation being as it approaches the centre

or points of no travel, when changing from one
direction of motion to the other. The idea of
an irregular motion was doubtless obtained from
looking at the long side and at the short side
alternately. The throw of an eccentric is the
distance from the centre of the wheel to the
centre of the shaft that it is on the stroke of
;
the eccentric is twice the above distance. These

terms are not the same, and should not be used
as if they were. The stroke of the eccentric has
no effect upon the times of the valve action.
The travel of the valve operated by any given
eccentric can never be changed after it is once
constructed ;
that is, fixed by the difference or
distance of the shaft centre from the centre of
the eccentric itself; it is only the times of the
travel that can be altered by rotating the eccentric
around the shaft.
Let us take an imaginary valve and eccentric
to explain this more fully. The width of the
steam-ports is i inch, and the lap is half an inch ;
the lap added to the width of the port gives the

throw of the eccentric or its travel in one direction
to open one port fully manifestly, this is the
;
throw (distance of the centre of the shaft hole

from the centre of the eccentric) because in a
,
complete revolution the valve travels the same

distance in the other direction it;
is then said
to have 3 inches valve travel.
Having settled these minor points, let us con-

sider the actual process of setting any given valve,

slide, piston, poppet, or any other.
The same processes apply to all, modified only
by the valve gear of this last there are endless
;
types, and only those in common use all over are

alluded to.
The engine being connected in all parts, it is
required to know where the eccentric should be
set to open and close the ports properly. If the
eccentric-rod is attached directly to the valve-
stem, the position of the eccentric can be fixed
at a glance by an engineer of experience but first;
he finds out whether the valve runs square as

it is called, before he
attempts to set the eccentric
itself. If the engine is a small affair the whole of
the details can be connected together, and the
shaft revolved if the
;
engine is large this last
cannot be done without much labor and an ex-
penditure of time which is quite unnecessary.
For instance to find the correct length of the
:
eccentric-rod.
Place the valve at mid-stroke, lap equal at both
ends, and turn the eccentric, not the shaft, up so
that its longest part is toward the steam-chest,
whether vertical or horizontal. Now take the
eccentric-rod and strap attached, and put the strap
where it belongs, noting the position of the con-
nection to the valve-stem and that on the eccen-
tric-rod ;
mark the difference, and then turn the
eccentric in the opposite direction and see where
it comes on that side. Jf the eccentric-rod travels
equally on each side of the centre of the valve-

stem connection the eccentric-rod is of the proper
if it does not travel equally shorten the
length ;
valve half of the difference only until it shows

true. When the valve throws square set the eccen-
tric (to make the matter simple) as in the diagram,
,
and revolve the shaft only there is no occasion

;
to drag a heavy piston and connecting-rod, with

their attendant friction, back and forth. If the
valve has too much opening (lead) when the
crank is at the end of the stroke, turn the eccen-
tric-wheel on the shaft (do not change the valve-
stem or eccentric-rod length) until the opening
is equal on both ends. Then the valve is in its
proper position to mechanically open and close
the ports but its real position for the best results
;
must be ascertained by indicator diagrams. Of

course the reader understands that the crank is
on its dead centre in all of the above movements.
THE LINK MOTION.

The operation just described applies to a com-
mon, straight connection, and it is modified to
some extent by rocker arms and the details of the
valve-gear but the operation is practically the
;
same no matter what the details may

in all cases,
be. Take the link motion used for reversing,
this also has been endowed with purely imaginary
functions, the link itself being supposed to have
some part in the operation of the valve when it
is merely an adjunct to facilitate reversing direc-

tions of motion the link, as its name implies, being

;
merely a curved strap to hold two eccentric-rods

at a given distance from each other, and admit
of one or the other rod being thrown in or out
of gear at will. Erratic motions and actions of
the link are not caused (or cured either) by change
of its form, for what is
gained in one direction is
lost in another ;
but erratic motions are caused by
the length of the link itself, the length of the
and the
eccentric-rods, throw of the eccentric.
This is only another form of saying that if the
radius of the link, its point of suspension, the
length of the rods, and the throw of the eccentrics
are not properly designed in the first instance,
there will be an erratic motion of the link at one or
more points in its stroke. Take the radius of the
example This is conventionally the dis-
link for :
tance from the centre of valve-stem connection

with valve at mid-stroke to the centre of the shaft ;
but sometimes if the connections are very short,

indeed this gives a very awkward link, of short
curve, so that the link block binds or works hard ;
then the link is made of longer radius than the

centre of the shaft, or of such proportions that the
engine will reverse easily.
If the engine works at full stroke all the time
this doesn't matter, for the valve can be made to
work properly at full stroke, regardless of the link
radius. If, however, it is intended to work ex-
pansively then difficulties arise at once if the link

is of an
improper radius, for the lead increases or
decreases alarmingly with any shift of the link

"
if the rods are
straight connected or open," as
it is called. If the rods are crossed then the lead
decreases toward mid-gear.
It might be supposed that when the rods are
of the proper length and the link is of the correct
radius then there would be no motion of the valve
with the link in mid-gear, but this is not the case,
for it will be observed by the diagram that the
centres of the eccentric wheels and the centre of
the shaft are not coincident so that in a complete
;
revolution there is an eccentricity of motion equal

to half the distance of the variation mentioned, so
that there will always be a motion of the valve in
mid-gear independent of the throw of the eccen-
trics themselves.
Now as to setting the eccentrics for the link-
motion on a direct connection, the operation is the
same as that for the single eccentric, both eccen-
tric-rods must be brought to the proper length to
make the valve travel square before anything else
is done ;
after that the eccentrics are fixed on the
shaft midway between vertical lines and horizontal
lines drawn on the shaft, that is to say, about quar-
ter-stroke, and opposite to the crank-pin, as in the
diagram. The shaft can then be turned once, a
complete revolution, to verify the lead, and the job
is done ;
the eccentric will only have to be moved
a little, one way or the other, to equalize the lead
or make it unequal, as is often done with large and
heavy connections, "Midway" is only a com-
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 9!
parative expression, for the eccentrics are not

midway between horizontal and vertical lines, but
are advanced slightly to make up for the lap and
lead.
It will be readily seen that it is a very simple
task to adjust a link-motion by this method. The
idea of* pinching or barring a heavily connected
engine with the piston in, and all stuffing-boxes
packed, is absurd, but it is very frequently done
by persons who should have thought a little
further.
To sum up the whole operation of setting an
eccentric on a Get the eccentric-rod of the
shaft :
proper length first then ;

set the eccentric with
the longest part at quarter-stroke, and opposite
the crank-pin when the main crank is on the
centre turn the shaft once to equalize the lead,
;
and make the eccentric-wheel fast on the shaft.

If the lap and lead allowances have been correctly
made, this will bring the eccentric where it should
be.
MACHINE FINISH.
The appearance of mechanical details is greatly

improved by the character or the finish done upon
them. Finishing, so-called, is not merely to sur-
face polish the details, but it comprises, also, the
workmanship upon them in fitting one part to
another. Slovenly workmen pay no attention to
sharp corners, true surfaces before polishing, and
square corners where they are meant to be square,
or round corners where they are meant to be round,

and the result is that, even if the work is well
designed otherwise, has the appearance of a
it
second-class job. Nothing can be slighted in the

way of fitting, if
it is
only upon a small model, if
an amateur expects credit for or satisfaction in his
productions.
As regards surface polish there are many kinds
of this, each of which has certain values. The
simplest of them is to produce a true surface by
files or scrapers without scratches or hollow places
in it, and then polish with emery cloth of different
degrees of fineness. This is much easier said than

done to those who have had no experience, and
about the first trouble an amateur experiences,
after he is able to produce a reasonably true
surface, is in keeping scratches out of his work.
"
Scratches are caused by the files " pinning-up as
it is termed ;
that is, minute particles of metal get-
ting caught in the teeth of the file and tearing the
surface of the work. This is very apt to occur
with fine files, and workmen can tell in a moment,
with one rub of a file, whether this has happened
or not; the file should be cleaned at once, and
chalk rubbed over it, so that the filings will have
no hold on the file. On wrought metal or steel
the file should be greased slightly, and cleaned
with a wire brush occasionally, to keep it cutting.
When " draw-filing" a finish be careful to keep
the line of filing and subsequent polishing exactly
true with the length of the work, not helter-skelter,
all over it in any direction. For a glazed finish

use old crocus cloth, which is greasy, and rub it on
hard and long this will give a brilliant polish
;
when finally cleaned with chalk and dry rouge, but

it will also
bring out every scratch in" the job by
filling it
up with dirt so that, unless the amateur
;
wishes to have the reproach of " high polish and

"
deep scratches applied to him, he should avoid
crocus cloth and use flour emery paper for the last
touches.
OIL-STONE FINISH.
This consists in bringing the work to a true

plane by filing and scraping, and then going care-
fully over it in detail with a small oil-stone slip.
This finish should be mottled and waved in ap-
pearance at the will or taste of the workman, but
it is slow work and should be done
upon small
parts only.
ACID FINISH.
A
dead-bright
o surface can be ^>
criven to machine
parts by immersing them a few moments in strong

nitric acid, and then immediately plunging the
parts into strong soda water, and carefully wash-

ing them in clear water until it is certain that the
acid has been removed. The effect of the job is
much enhanced by using a scratch brush on them,
run at high speed in the lathe. This finish is not
recommended for parts that have to be handled
much, for it will turn black quickly unless pro-
tected from the air by shellac varnish, or trans-

parent collodion.
SCRAPED FINISH.
This consists in bringing the work to a true plane,

and then mottling the surface with patches scraped
here and there, but alternating, with some approach
to regularity. It is chiefly effective upon cast-iron
surfaces of some area. A
finish of more or less
ornamental appearance, called worm-finish can be
imparted by putting a pine plug in the chuck and
turning it true on the end and .face. Charge the
end with flour emery and oil, and then place the
work against the back spindle and screw up on it,
moving the work in straight lines or curves as
desired. This gives a very bright finish of pecul-
iar aspect, and is frequently used upon watch
movements.
SOLDERING AND BRAZING.
A knowledge of this work very convenient

is
to machinists, but difficulty experienced some-

is
times in making a good job. This is because the

surfaces to be joined and the agent used in doing
the work, the soldering-iron, so-called, are not
clean. The surfaces of the work must be abso-
lutely bright, without a trace of tarnish upon them,
or the solder will not take. Sand-paper will, in
a majority of cases, answer to clean the parts,
but it is sometimes necessary to use files or scrap-
ers ;
but it must be borne in mind that the solder
will not adhere unless there is a clean surface

present. For tin the solder will adhere if it is
clean, with rosin only as a flux but for brass it is
;
necessary to use a solution called muriate of zinc.

This is merely clean zinc dissolved in muriatic
acid ;
put zinc cuttings and muriatic acid in a
bottle, and when it will not bubble or give off
fumes any more the acid is spent, and is then sat-
urated. Pour it carefully into another clean bottle
so that no dregs of zinc enter, and fill it up with
k of its bulk of soft water wet the parts with this
;
and heat them on a hot plate then rub a stick of

;
tin over them until they are coated with it, and
solder in the usual way with a soldering-iron, or
bind them together with wire, and sweat them
together as it is called, by heating on a hot plate
until the solder flows. This solder holds very
strongly, and pieces of irregular shape which could
not be otherwise held may be soldered onto the
face-plate and machined off. Iron, cast or wrought,
can be tinned by filing it bright or putting it in
acid, if small, and then heating it on a plate over
the fire so that no smoke or gas reaches it, and
then covering the surface with sal-ammoniac rub ;
tin all over until it melts, and solder in the usual
way. Common solder is 2 parts tin and i

part
lead by weight. Fine brass jobs which cannot be
reached by an iron can be joined by dipping the
surfaces in a strong solution of sal-ammoniac, put-
ting a strip of tin foil between them, and binding
them with wire heat just enough to flow the tin.
;
$6 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS
Silver solder, so-called, is 34 parts weight of sil-

ver coin and 5 copper. Melt in a clean crucible,
and when partly cooled add 4 parts zinc, stirring
vigorously. If the metal is too hot when the zinc
it will all burn out.
is
put in Drop or pellet sol-
der is made by taking common solder and pouring
it into cold water, having the solder only hot
enough to run easily.
BRAZING.
This process differs from soldering in the na-

ture of the agent employed to hold the parts to be
joined. Brazing isaccomplished by melting brass
filings applied directly on the seam and fused in
it
by holding the work over a fire. It requires
considerable practice to do it successfully, and is
hardly within the pale of amateur work but if any
;
one desires to try it, let them scrape the seam sur-
faces bright, and apply sal-ammoniac and brass
filings directly to the seam with a small spoon
made of a copper strip. The work must be moved
to and fro over a charcoal fire, and when the cop-
per approaches red-heat, the solder or brass will
flow into the seam. This reads very simply, but
whoever undertakes it for the first time will find
that it is not so easy as it reads.
CHAPTER XII.
BOILERS.
A BOILER which will merely hold hot water and

stand pressure up to 10 pounds can be made of
tin soldered together like a teakettle, but such a
boiler is not worth the time spent upon it. "It
is
merely a makeshift, and unworthy of any one
who aspires to be more than a tinker. A boiler
to be of any use must be of some considerable
dimensions and thickness of plate it must have
;
a good fire-box and ample heating surface for the

work it has to do, and it must be properly propor-
tioned as well for the fuel used.
If it is desired merely to run an engine to see
it in
operation under low pressure, the quickest
made, cheapest, and most compact form of boiler
is the common
cylinder boiler, used with charcoal
fuel, or arranged for a gasoline burner, such as is
now sold for melting lead in pots by plumbers.
This is a cheap fuel, but it is not a particularly
safe one, for gasoline is treacherous stuff, and
brooks no careless hands or heads about it.
A copper boiler, 4 inches diameter by yV thick
and 12 inches long, will drive (that is run) an en-
gine with i inch diameter of cylinder by ij-inch
97
Fig. 28.
stroke of piston allday long at 1,000 revolu-

tions per minute, and maintain a pressure of 50
pounds if properly arranged as to the heating sur-
Fig. 28. BOILER CAP.
face but the \vater must be constantly renewed,

;
and to do this some sort of a feeding apparatus

must be employed the simplest to make is a
;
common plunger-pump with two valves, suction,

and delivery, but a much better and more conve-
nient form of boiler for amateurs is the vertical
tubular boiler, as shown in the diagrams.
This, as will be seen, is easily made by any fairly
good workman, and has no rivets to bother by
leaking in inaccessible places, the only ones being
on the bottom where they can easily be put in.
The dimensions are given in the diagrams the ;
total heating surface in the tubes is 7 square feet,

which with gasoline fuel should give very nearly
i-horse-power. If a seamless brass tube cannot
be easily had of the size given, a coppersmith will
make a copper-tube brazed which is very nearly
as strong, or, at allevents, strong enough for a
working pressure of 150 pounds.
The rule to find the bursting pressure of any
cylindrical shell or tube is, to multiply the thick-
ness of the metal in parts of an inch by i of the
tensile strength, and divide by half the diameter
of the tube.
For example the tensile strength of copper is
:
(brazed) 30,000 pounds per square inch ;ith of

this is
7,500 pounds. The copper is ith thick
(decimal .125). So 7,500 x by .125 = 937.5;
dividing this by half the diameter of the tube,
6 inches, gives us 156 pounds working pres-
sure, which is just \ of the bursting pressure or
actual strength of the tube.
The heads are cast-brass, or may be of copper
flanged, but brass is easier to cut a thread on than
SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. IOI
copper, and must be screwed in tight. It will be

seen that this is a pretty good job for an amateur's
lathe, which would hardly swing it, and if preferred
the tube sheets can be riveted in with $ copper
rivets spaced I inch between centres.
The edges of the tube sheets must be caulked
tightly after riveting, and a rivet-set used on the
outside heads to make a neat finish. The tubes
are I inside, because they are to be expanded in,
and that is the smallest expander to be had they ;
will be absolutely tight when rolled, and need

not be riveted over on the ends no steam press-
;
ure can draw them out. The dome on top for

the smoke-stack will require a pattern made for it
if it is intended to have a neat
appearance. The
gauge-cocks can be bought in brass-goods stores,
"
they are called ith air-valves," and are very small,
neatly-finished valves, nickle-plated, costing 15
cents apiece. The feed-pipe enters at the bottom,
and will require a check-valve close to the shell.
The steam-pipe emerges where marked, and
branches can be taken from it to carry the steam-
gauge, safety-valve, and whistle if required.
In drilling the holes for the tubes in the tube-
sheets be careful to get exactly the same number
of tubes in each row of both sheets if this is not
;
done there will be an odd hole which will have to

be closed by a plug.
Made in brass or copper this boiler will cost
considerable, and it can be made of steel just as
well, with steel tubes but these last are apt to
;
Fig. 30,
03
corrode very quickly, and it is better to use brass

tubes. Any small boiler-shop will make a 1 2-inch
steel tube by 16 inches long, by No. 10 wire
gauge, for a very moderate sum, and the heads

can be flanged, also, in steel. With this material
such a boiler can be made very reasonably.
At 150 pounds pressure and with gasoline fuel,
or, if preferred, charcoal or coke used with a
blast, such as the engine exhausting into the stack,
an engine 1 1-inch cylinder by 3-inch stroke,
running at 1,000 revolutions per minute should
deliver i horse-power, ample to drive all the tools
in an amateur's shop, or a model yacht 8 or 10
feet long, by 18 inches beam.
A horizontal boiler can be made which will do
good work by following the diagram Fig. 30.
This boiler will require a setting which may be of
sheet-iron, &thick, and a breeching, as it is called,
to go over the internal flue where it emerges from
the head. This is a cheap boiler to make also,
as it can be wholly brazed together without a
rivet in it, and it will carry a high pressure ;
but
it will not do the work that the vertical boiler
will, because it has very little heating surface for
its dimensions. These last are, we will say, 16
inches long by 12 inches diameter, the same as
the vertical boiler but the effective heating sur-
;
face is the bottom and the internal flue, altogether

only 408 square inches, or a little less than 3
square feet. This would amount to nothing at
all for power purposes, and would only be useful
as a toy. If, however, we arrange the tubes as in
the upper figure we can get 9^ square feet heat-

ing surface, or about i horse-power.
A horizontal water-tube boiler is another affair,

and, in the same space as the horizontal boiler
just described, will give a great deal of power.
05
Cap
86, 1 Lap Welded Tubes 13 'Long
Fig. 3 a-
IO6 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
There another advantage in it

is that gasoline
or oil can be used readily. Either of these
fuel
fuels are far better than coal for small boilers.
The trouble with it is that it does not burn easily
in a confined space like a small fire-box more- ;
over it is very dirty, and requires constant super-

version. With oil there is no trouble or
annoyance beyond the odor. With gasoline, as
before explained, great care must be taken to
have not the slightest leak of the fluid externally,
or there will be a very dangerous explosion. The
water-tube boiler is not at all difficult to make,
and affords an interesting study as to the action.
It can be either of the horizontal inclined type or
the vertically inclined type, as desired an ama- ;
teur can easily make the horizontal water-tube

type. As will be seen by the engraving the
generating surfaces comprise a series of tubes
directly over the fire connected with the steam-
drum on top. The feed-pipe enters this at the
bottom and the steam-pipe issues from the top
of the dome or drum. This last is made of a
section of lap-welded wrought-iron pipe, and the
heads are the caps which go on the same and can
be found in any engineer's store. The tubes are
lap-welded also, and the connections at the end
are the malleable iron return-bends also kept in
stock. The diagram shows how the series (3)
are connected to each other, each series being
also connected at the sides by running one of
the return-bends at right angles, or turned down
toward the bottom of the boiler, both sides and ends

(4 in all)
of the series
must be connected,
for the steam in the
lower series has to
pass through them on
the way to the drum.
For a large boiler this
would not be a good
plan, but in this size
it will answer. This
boiler has K square
feet of heatin-
and 1 1
square feet
grate surface, and will
easily deliver ii horse-
power. It will burn
any kind of fuel, wood,

coal, or coke, and will
stand 500 pounds per
square inch. This is
the advantage that
water-tube boilers
have over fire tube
-
boilers ;
they can carry
higher pressure, and
are much lighter for
equal powers.
It must be borne
in mind, if this boiler
is to carry high pressures, that all screwed fit-

IO8 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS.
tings must be thoroughly leaded that is, cov-

ered with red-lead putty (made of white lead
and red lead to a stiff dough) before being made
up and that no pipe or union must be screwed
;
together and then taken apart; if this is done

the joints will leak, for they are stretched much
larger than the original size.
The boiler thus far described will answer for all
purposes amateurs are likely to have, and, while
some of the parts cannot be made by them for
want of facilities, they are not expensive to have
made by workmen. They are in no sense of the
word toys, to be run with alcohol lamps, but will
burn coal, wood, or oil fuel when properly man-
aged. Between merely driving an engine and
running it for power purposes, there is a great
difference, and that is where many persons fail
to get power out of small engines. They have
no boilers them.
to Commercial engines
run
for power purposes can be had in market with
cylinders of only 2 inches diameter, by 3 inches
stroke, but they require 150 pounds of steam.
Vertical submerged tubular boilers are in use
in some parts of the country as shown (Fig. 33),
but it is not a desirable boiler for amateurs to
make, on account of the difficulty in getting the
tubes in the upper head, and making the whole
boiler tight. The launch engine 3"x 4" will re-
quire a boiler of 30 square feet heating surface,
and is wholly beyond the facilities and experience
of amateurs to construct.
CLASSIFIED CATALOGUE OF
BOOKS ON STEAM, STEAM ENGINES, Ete.
FOR SALE BY
E>. VAX XOSTRAND COMPANY,
23 MIRRAV AND 27 WARREN STS., NEW YORK.
BOILERS.
Barr. Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers, including
Practical
Results of Recent Experimental Tests of Boiler Material, etc. 8vo. Illus-
trated. Indianapolis, 1893. $3.00

Barrus. Boiler TestsEmbracing the results of one hundred and thirty-
:
seven evaporative tests, made on seventy-one boilers, conducted by the

author. 8vo. Boston, 1895. $5-oo
Christie. Chimney Design and Theory. A book for Engineers and Archi-
tects, containing all data relative to Chimney Designing. Illustrated
with numerous diagrams and half-tone cuts of many famous chim-
neys. Illustrated.
8vo, cloth. New York, 1899. $3.00
Courtney. Boiler Maker's Assistant in Drawing, Templating, and
The
Calculating Boiler Work and Tank Work, with rules for the Evapora-
tive Power and the Horse Power of Steam Boilers, and the Proportions
of Safety Valves, and Useful Tables of Rivet Joints of Circles, Weights
of Metals, etc. Revised and edited by D. K. Clark, C.E. Illustrated.
London, 1898. (Weale's Series.) $0.80
The Boiler Maker's Ready Reckoner. With examples of Practical
Geometry and Templating, for the Use of Platers' Smiths, and Riveters.
Revised and edited by D. K. Clark. 3d edition. London, 1890. (Weale's
Series.) $1.60
Davis. A
Treatise on Steam-Boiler Incrustation, and Methods for Pre-
venting Corrosion and the Formation of Scale ; also a Complete List
of all American Patents issued by the Government of the United States
from 1790 to July i, 1884, for Compounds and Mechanical Devices for
Purifying Water, and for Preventing the Incrustation of Steam Boilers.
65 engravings. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1884. $2.00
Foley, Nelson. The Mechanical Engineer's Reference Book for Ma-
chine and Boiler Construction, in two parts. Part I., General En-
gineering Data. Part II., Boiler Construction. With 51 Plates and
numerous illustrations specially drawn for this work. Fol'o, half mor.
London, 1895. $25.00
Horner. Plating and Boiler Making. A Practical Handbook for Work-
shop Operation, including an Appendix of tables by A Foreman Pattern
Maker. 338 illustrations. I2mo. London, 1895. $3.00
LIST OF BOOKS.
Button. Steam Boiler Construction: A Handbook for Engi-

Practical
neers, Boiler Makers, and Steam Users. With upwards of 300 illustra-
tions. 3d edition. 8vo. London, 1898. $6.00
Munro. Steam Their Defects, Management, and Construction.
Boilers :
2d edition enlarged, with numerous illustrations and tables. i2mo.

London, 1892. $1.50
Roper. The Steam Boiler: Its Care and Management. With instruc-
tions for increasing the Efficiency and Economy, and insuring the Dura-
bility and Longevity of all classes of Steam Boilers, Stationary, Loco-

motive, Marine, and Portable. With Hints and Suggestions and Advice
to Engineers, Firemen, and Owners of Steam Boilers. 4th edition,
revised. I2mo, tuck, mor. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.00
Use and Abuse of the Steam Boiler. Illustrated, nth edition.
I2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.00
Rose. Steam Boilers. A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and
Examination. For the Use of Practical Boiler Makers, Boiler Users,
and Inspectors, and embracing in plain figures all the calculations neces-
sary in designing and classifying Steam Boilers. 73 engravings. 8vo.
Philadelphia, 1897. $ 2 -5o
Rowan. On Boiler Incrustation and Corrosion. New edition, revised
and enlarged by F. E. Idell. i6mo, boards. New York, 1895. $0.50
Sexton. Pocket Book for Boiler Makers and Steam Users, comprising a
variety of useful information for Employer and Workman, Government
Inspectors, Board of Trade Surveyors, Engineers in charge of Works
and Slips, Foremen of Manufactories, and the General Steam-Using
Public. 4th edition, revised and enlarged. 321110, roan. London, 1895.
$2.00
Stromeyer. Marine Boiler Management and Construction. Being a
Treatise on Boiler Troubles and Repairs, Corrosions, Fuels, and Heat.
On the Properties of Iron and Steel, on Boiler Mechanics, Workshop
Practices, and Boiler Designs. 8vo. London, 1893. $5.00
Thurston. Manual of Steam Boilers : Their Designs, Construction, and
Operation. For Technical Schools and Engineers. 183 engravings in
text. 6th edition, 8vo. New York, 1898. $5.00
Steam Boiler Explosions. In Theory and Practice, Illustrated.
2d edition, I2mo. New York, 1888. $1.50
A Handbook of Engine and Bailer Trials, and of the Indicator and
Prony Brake, for Engineers and Technical Schools. 3d edition. Illus-
trated, 8vo. New York, 1897. $5.00
Traill. Boilers: Their Construction and Strength. A Handbook of
Rules, Formulae, Tables, etc., relative to and Pres-
Material, Scantlings,
sures, Safety Valves, Springs, Fittings and Mountings, etc. For use of
Engineers, Surveyors, Draughtsmen, Boiler Makers, and Steam Users.
With illustrations. 3d edition, I2mo, mor. London, 1896. $5.00
Triplex. Marine Boilers. A Treatise on the Causes and Prevention of
their Priming, with Remarks on their General Management. Illustrated.
I2mo. Sunderland, 1899. $2.00
Watson. Small Engines and Boilers. A Manual of Concise and
Specific Directions for the Construction of Small Steam Engines and
Boilers of Modern Types from five horse-power down to model sizes.
I2mo, cloth. Illustrated with numerous diagrams and half-tone cuts.
New York, 1899. $1.25
The intention of the author in writing this work has been to fur-
nish specific directions and correct dimensioned plans for small
engines and boilers.
Wilson. A Treatise on Steam Boilers: Their Strength, Construction,
and Economical Working. Enlarged and illustrated from the Fifth Eng-
lish edition by J. T. Flather. I2mo. New York, 1897. 2.50
Boiler and Factory Chimneys: Their Draught Power and Stability.
1 2mo. London, 1892. $1.50
3d edition,
FUELS.
Abbott. Treatise on Fuel. Founded on the original Treatise of Sir W.
Siemens. Illustrated. i6mo. New York, 1891. $0.50
Barr. Practical Treatise on the Combustion of Coal, including descrip-
tions of various mechanical devices for the Economic Generation of
Heat by the Combustion of Fuel, whether Solid, Liquid, or Gaseous.
8vo. 1879. ^ 2 '5
Clark and Williams. Fuel Its Combustion and Economy, consisting of
:
Abridgments of Treatise on the Combustion of Coal and the Economy

of Fuel. With extensive additions in recent practice in the Combustion
and Economy of Fuel, Coal, Coke, Wood, Peat, Petroleum, etc. 4th
edition. I2mo. London, 1891. $1-50
Hodgetts. Liquid Fuel for Mechanical and Industrial Purposes. Illus-
trated. 8vo. London, 1890. $2.50
Phillips. Fuels Solid, Liquid, and Gaseous their Analysis and Valua-
: ;
tion. For the use of Chemists and Engineers, I2mo. London, 1896.
$0.80
LIST OF BOOK'S.
Sexton, A. H. Fuels and Refractory Materials. 8vo. Cloth. London,

1897. $2.00
Williams. Fuel Combustion and Economy. Consisting of an
: Its
Abridgment of A Treatise on the Combustion of Coal and the Pre-

"
vention of Smoke." With extensive additions by D. Kinnear Clark.

4th edition. London, 1891. $I5O
GAS ENGINES.
Clerk. The Theory Gas Engine. 2d edition, with Additional
of the
Matter edited by F. E. Idell. i6mo. New York, 1891. $0.50
The Gas Engine. History and Practical Working. With 100 illus-
trations. 6th edition. I2mo. New York, 1896. $4.00
Donkin. A Text-Book on Gas, Oil, and Air Engines : or Internal Com-
bustion Motors without Boiler. 154 illustrations. Svo. London, 1896.
$7-5
Goodeve. On Gas Engines with Appendix describing a Recent Engine
:
with Tube Igniter. i2mo. London, 1887. $1.00

Hiscox, Gardner D. Gas, Gasoline and Oil Vapor Engines. A New
Book Descriptive of Their Theory and Power. Second edition, revised
and enlarged. Svo, cloth. Illustrated. New York, 1898. $2.50
HEAT. THERMODYNAMICS.
Anderson. On the Conversion of Heat into Work. A Practical Hand-
book on Heat Engines. 3d edition. Illustrated. I2mo. London,
1893. $2.25
Box. Treatise on Heat as Applied to the Useful Arts, for the use of
Engineers, Architects, etc. 8th edition. I2mo. London, 1895. $5.00
Larden. A School Course on Heat. Illus. i2mo. London, 1894. $2.00
McCulloch. Elementary Treatise on the Mechanical Theory of Heat and
itsapplication to Air and Steam Engine. Svo. New York, 1876. $3.50
Maxwell. Theory of Heat. New edition, with Corrections and Addi-
tions by Lord Rayleigh, Sec. R. S. Illustrated. I2mo. New York,
1897. $1.50
Peabody. Thermodynamics of the Steam Engine and other Heat En-
gines. Svo. New York, 1898. $5-oo
Rontgen. The Principles of Thermodynamics. With special Applica-
tions to Hot Air, Gas, and Steam Engines. With additions from Profes-
sors Verdet, Zeuner, and Pernolet. Translated, newly and thoroughly
revised and enlarged by Professor A. Jay Du Bois. 732 pages. 3d edi-
tion. Svo. New York, 1896. $5-oo
D. VAN NOSTRAND COAfPAtfY.
Tyndall. Heat considered as a mode of Motion. 6th edition. I2mo.

New York, 1890. $2.50
Williams. On Heat and Steam embracing New Views of E vaporization,
:
Condensation, and Expansion. Illus. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1882. $2.50

Wood. Thermodynamics, Heat Motors, and Refrigerating Machines.
Revised and enlarged edition. 8vo. New York, 1895. $4.00
HOISTING MACHINERY.
Colyer. Hydraulic, Steam and Hand Power-Lifting and Pressing Ma-
chinery. 72 large plates. Svo. London, 1892. $10.00
Glynn. Treatise on the Construction of Cranes and other Hoisting Ma-
chinery. 7th edition. Illustrated. London, 1887. $0.60
Marks. Notes on the Construction of Cranes and Lifting Machinery.
I2mo. London, 1892. $1.00
Towne. A Treatise on Cranes, descriptive particularly of those designed
and built by the Yale and Towne Manufacturing Company, owning and
operating the Western Crane Company including also a description of
,
light hoisting machinery as built by the same makers. Svo. New York,
1883. 1.00
Weisbach and Hermann. The Mechanics of Hoisting Machinery, in-
cluding Accumulators, Excavators, and Pile-drivers. A
Text-book for
Technical Schools and a guide for Practical Engineers. Authorized trans-
lation from the second German edition by Karl P. Dahlstrom. 177 illus-
trations. Svo. New York, 1893. $3-75
ICE-MAKING MACHINES.
Dixon. Manual of Ice-Making and Refrigerating Machines. A Treatise
on the Theory and Practice of Cold-Production by Mechanical Means.
i6mo. St Louis, 1894. $1.00
Leask. Refrigerating Machinery. Its Principles and Management.
"\Yith numerous illustrations. Svo.
London, 1894. $2.00
Ledoux. the Theory of the Action of the Various
Ice-Making Machines :
Forms of Cold-producing or so-called Ice-Machines. Translated fr.om

the French. 248 pages and numerous tables. i6mo. New York, 1892.
0.50
Redwood. Theoretical and Practical Ammonia Refrigeration. A Prac-
tical handbook for the use of those in charge of refrigerating plants.
Illustrated with numerous Tables. I2mo. New York, 1896. $1.00

Wallis-Tayler. Refrigerating and Ice-Making Machinery. i2mo, cloth.
Illustrated. London, 1896. $3.00
LIST OF BOOKS.
INDICATORS.
Bacon. Treatise on the Richards Steam Engine Indicator. With a
Supplement, describing the latest Improvements in the Instruments for
Taking, Measuring, and Computing Diagrams. Also an Appendix, con-
taining Useful Formulas and Rules for Engineers. 23 diagrams. 4th
edition. i6mo, flex. New York, 1883. $1.00
Ellison. Practical Applications of the Indicator. With reference to the
Adjustment of Valve Gear on all Styles of Engines. 2d edition. 8vo.
100 engravings. Chicago, 1897. $2.00
Hemenway. Indicator Practice and Steam Engine Economy. With
Plain Directions for Attaching the Indicator, Taking Diagrams, Comput-
ing the Horse-Power, Drawing the Theoretical Curve, Calculating Steam

Consumption, Determining Economy, Locating Derangement of Valves,
and making all desired deductions also, Tables required in making the
;
necessary computations, and an Outline of Current Practice in Testing

Steam Engines and Boilers. 6th edition. I2mo. New York, 1898.
$2.00
Le Van. The Steam Engine Indicator and its Use. A Guide to Practi-
cal Working Engineers for greater economy, and the better Working of
Steam Engines. i8mo, boards. New York, 1896. $0.50
The Steam Engine and the Indicator Their Origin and Progressive
:
Development, including the most recent examples of Steam and Gas

Motors, together with the Indicator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Ap-
plication. Illustrated by 205 engravings, chiefly of Indicator-cards. 8vo.
Philadelphia, 1890. $4.00
Porter. A Treatise on the Richards Steam Engine Indicator, and the
Development and Application of Force in the Steam Engine. 5th edi-
tion, revised and enlarged. 8vo. London, 1894. $3.00
Pray. Twenty Years with the Indicator. Being a Practical Text-book
for the Engineer or the Student, with no Complex Formulas. With
many illustrations and rules as to the best way to run any Steam Engine
to get the most economical results. How to Adjust Valves and Valve
Motions Correctly. Full directions for working out Horse-Power, the
Amount of Steam or Water per Horse-Power, Economy and Fuel. Ex-
tended directions for Attaching the Indicator, what Motions to use and
those not to use. Full directions for Computation of Power by Planim-
eter and other methods, with many tables and hints. 8vo. New York,
1896. $2.50
D. VAN- NOSTRAND COMPANY.
INJECTORS.
Kneass. Practice and Theory of the Injector. 8vo. New York, 1895.
$1.50
Nissenson. Practical Treatise on Injectors as Feeders of Steam Boilers.
Illustrated. 8vo, paper. New York, 1890. $0.50
Pochet. Steam Injectors : Their Theory and Use. i6mo, boards. New
York, 1890. 0.50
INSTRUCTIONS TO ENGINEERS, FIREMEN,

AND BOILER ATTENDANTS.
Bale. A Hand-Book for Steam Users, being Rules for Engine Drivers
and Boiler Attendants, with Notes on Steam Engine and Boiler Manage-
ment and Steam Boiler Explosions. I2mo. London, 1890. $0.80
Edwards. 900 Examination Questions and Answers for Engineers and
Firemen (Stationary and Marine), who desire to obtain a U. S. Govern-
ment or State License. A new, revised, and enlarged edition. 32mo,
mor. Philadelphia, 1897. $1.50
Grimshaw. Steam Engine Catechism. A Series of Direct Practical
Answers to Direct Practical Questions. Mainly intended for Young En-
gineers. i8mo. New York, 1897. $2.00
Grimshaw. The Engine Runner's Catechism. Telling how to Erect,
Adjust, and Run the principal Steam Engines in use in the United States.
Illustrated. i8mo. New York, 1898. $2.00
Hawkins. Maxims and Instructions for the Boiler Room. Useful to
Engineers, Firemen, and Mechanics, relating to Steam Generators, Pumps,
Appliances, Steam Heating, Practical Plumbing, etc. 184 illustrations.
8vo. New York, 1899. $2.00
Aids to Engineers' Examinations. Prepared for Applicants of all
Grades with Questions and Answers. A Summary of the Principles and

Practice of Steam Engineering. I2mo, leather, gilt edge. New York,
1894. $2.00
Reynolds. The Engineman's Pocket Companion and Practical Educator
for Engineman, Boiler Attendants, and Mechanics. Illustrated. i6mo,
London, 1886. $1.40
Roper. Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and Firemen who
wish to Procure a License, Certificate, or Permit to take charge of any
class of Steam Engines or Boilers, Stationary, Locomotive, and Marine.
i8mo, mor. Philadelphia, 1894. $2.00

LIST OF BOOKS.
Rose. Key Engines and Engine-running.

to A Practical Treatise
upon the Management of Steam Engines and Boilers for the use of
those who desire to pass an examination to take charge of an engine
or boiler. I2mo, cloth. New York, 1899. $2.50
Questions and Answers for Engineers. This little book contains all
the questions that Engineers will be asked when undergoing an exami-
nation for the purpose of procuring licenses, and they are so plain that
any Engineer or Fireman of ordinary intelligence may commit them to
memory in a short time. 5th edition. i8mo, mor. Philadelphia. $2.00
Stephenson. Illustrated Practical Test Examination and Ready Refer-
ence Book for Stationary, Locomotive, and Marine Engineers, Firemen,
Electricians, and Machinists, to procure Steam Engineer's license. i6mo,
Chicago, 1892. $1.00
Stromberg. Steam User's Guide and Instructor. Plain and Correct Ex-
planations in regard to Engines, Pumps, Dynamos, and Electricity. Prac-
tically, so that Engineers, Machinists, Firemen, and Electricians of Lim-

itedEducation can understand and become expert practical engineers.
i6mo. St. Louis, 1894. $i-$
Watson. How to Run Engines and Boilers. Practical Instruction for
Young Engineers and Steam Users. 2d edition. Illustrated. i6mo.
New York, 1896. $i.ob
Zwicker. Practical Instructor in questions and answers for Machinists,
Firemen, Electricians, and Steam Engineers. 24mo. St. Louis, Mo.,

1898. $1.00
LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING.
Grimshaw. Locomotive Catechism. Containing nearly 1,300 Questions
and Answers Concerning Designing and Constructing, Repairing and
Running Various Kinds of Locomotive Engines. Intended as Exami-
nation Questions and to Post and Remind the Engine Runner, Fireman,
or Learner. 176 illustrations. I2mo. New York, 1898. $2.00
Hill. Progressive Examinations of Locomotive Engineers and Firemen.
i6mo. New York, 1891. $0.50
Meyer. Modern Locomotive Construction. 1,030 illustrations. 4to. New
York, 1894. $10.00
Phelan. Air Brake Practice, being a description of the construction, ob-
jects sought, and results obtained, by the Westinghouse automatic air
brake, as well as complete directions for operating it under the many
diverse conditions in daily practice. 3 large folding plates. I2mo. New
York, 1890, $1.00
Reagan. Locomotive Mechanism and Engineering. i2mo, with 145 il-
lustrations. New York, 1898. $2.00

Reynolds. Locomotive Engine Driving. A Practical Manual for Engi-
neers in charge of Locomotive Engines. 8th edition, enlarged. i2mo.
London, 1892. $1.40
The Model Locomotive Engineer, Fireman, and Engine Boy : Com-
prising a Historical Notice of the Pioneer Locomotive Engines and their
Inventors. I2mo. London, 1895. $:.8o
Continuous Railway Brakes. A Practical Treatise on the several
Systems in use in the United Kingdom their Construction and Perform-
;
ance. Numerous illustrations and

8vo.tables.
London, 1882. $3.60
Engine Driving Life Stirring Adventures and Incidents in the Lives
:
of Locomotive Engine Drivers. 2'd edition, with additional chapters.
I2mo. London, 1894. $0.80
Rogers. Pocket Primer or Air Brake Instruction. paper cover. $0.50

Stiff
Roper. Hand-Book of the Locomotive; including the construction of

engines and boilers and running of locomotives. 15th edition, revised.
I2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.50
Sinclair. Locomotive-Engine Running and Management. A Practical
Treatise on Locomotive Engines, showing their performance in running
different kinds of trains with economy and Despatch. Also, directions
regarding the care, management, and repairs of Locomotives and all their
connections. Illustrated by numerous engravings. 2ist edition, revised.
I2mo. New York, 1899. $2.00
Stretton. The Locomotive Engine and its Development. A Popular
Treatise on the Gradual Improvements made in Railway Engines be-
tween the years 1803 and 1892. Illustrated. I2mo. 3d edition. Lon-
don, 1896. $1.50
Synnestvedt. Diseases of the Air Brake System. Their Causes, Symp-
toms, and Cure. Illustrated. I2mo. 1894. $1.00
Woods. Compound Locomotives. 2d edition, revised and enlarged by
D. L. Barnes. 8vo. Illustrated. Chicago, 1894. $3.00
MACHINE TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

Harrison. The Mechanic's Tool Book, with Practical Rules and Sugges-
tions for Machinists, Iron Workers, and others. I2mo. New York,
1882. $1.50
LIST OF BOOKS.
Hasluck. The Mechanics' Work-shop Handy Book. A Practical Man-

ual on Mechanical Manipulation. Embracing Information on Various
Handicraf. Processes, with Useful Notes and Miscellaneous Memoranda.
I2mo. London, 1895. $0.50
Knight. Mechanician. A Treatise on the Construction
and Manipulation
of Tools, for the Use and Instruction of Young Engineers and Scientific
Amateurs. 4th edition. 410. London, 1888. $7.25
Lukin. Young Mechanic. Containing directions for the use of all kinds
of Tools and for construction of Steam Engines and Mechanical Models,
including the Art of Turning in Wood and Metal. Illustrated. I2mo.

New York. $i-75
Rose. Complete Practical Machinist. Embracing Lathe Work, Vise
Work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and Dies, Hardening and Tempering,
the Making and Use of Tools, Tool Grinding, Marking out Work, etc.
Illustrated by 356 engravings, igth edition, greatly enlarged. I2mo.
Shelley. Work-shop Appliances. Including descriptions of some of the
Gauging and Measuring Instruments, Hand Cutting Tools, Lathes, Drill-
ing, Planing, and other Machine Tools used by Engineers. loth edition,
with an additional chapter on Milling, by R. R. Lister. Illustrated.
I2mo. London, 1897. $1.50
Smith. Cutting Tools worked by Hand and Machine. 14 plates and 51
illustrations. 2d edition. I2mo. London, 1884. $1.50
Usher. Modern Machinist. A Practical Treatise on Modern Machine
Shop Methods, describing in a comprehensive manner the most Approved
Methods, Processes, and Appliances Employed in Present Practice, etc.
257 illustrations. I2mo. New York, 1895. $2.50
Watson. Modern Practice of American Machinists and Engineers. i2mo.
Illustrated. Philadelphia, 1892. $2.50
MECHANICAL DRAWING AND MACHINE

DESIGN.
Andre. Draughtsman's Hand-Book of Plan and Map Drawing; including
Instructions for the preparation of Engineering, Architectural and Me-
chanical Drawings, with numerous illustrations, and colored examples.
8vo. London, 1891. $3-75
Appleton's Cyclopaedia of Technical Drawing. Embracing the Principles
of construction as applied to Practical Design. With numerous illustra-
tions of Topographical, Mechanical, Engineering, Architectural, Perspec-
tive, and Free-hand Drawing. 8vo, leather. New York, 1887. $9.00
Armengaud, Amoroux, and Johnson. Practical Draughtsman's Book of

Industrial Design, and Machinists' and Engineers' Drawing Companion.
Forming a Complete Course of Mechanical, Engineering, and Architectu-

ral Drawing, with additional matter and plates, selections from and ex-
amples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism of the

day. Illustrated by fifty folio steel plates, and fifty woodcuts. New
edition. 410, half mor. Philadelphia, 1892. $6.00
Barber. Engineers' Sketch Book of Mechanical Movements, Devices, Ap-
pliances, Contrivances, Details employed in the Design and Construction
of Machinery for every Purpose. Collected from numerous sources and
from actual work. Classified and arranged for reference. Nearly 2,000
illustrations. 8vo. London, 1897. $4.00
Building and Machine Draughtsman. A practical guide to the projection
and delineation of subjects met with in the practice of the engineer,
machinist, and building constructor, etc. by practical draughtsmen.
;
I2mo. London, 1891. $2.00

Burns. Illustrated Architectural Engineering and Mechanical Drawing
Book. For the use of Schools, Students, and Artisans. loth edition,
revised and corrected, with additional sections on important departments
of the art. Svo. 284 illustrations. New York, 1893. $1.00
Davidson. Drawing for Machinists and Engineers. Comprising a com-
plete course of Drawing adapted to the requirements of Millwrights and
Engineers ; also, course of practical instruction in the coloring of me-

chanical drawings. London.
4th edition. i6mo. $1-75
Donaldson. Drawing and Rough Sketchingfor Marine Engineers, with
Proportions, Instructions, Explanations, and Examples also How to De- ;
sign Engines, Boilers, Propellers, Paddle Wheels, Shafts, Rods, Valves,

etc. 6th edition. Illustrated. London, 1899. $3.00
Faunce. Mechanical Drawing, prepared for the use of the students of
the Mass. Institute of Technology. 2d edition, revised and enlarged.
Illustrated and 8 plates. I2mo.
Boston, 1898. $1.25
Fox and Thomas. A Practical Course in Mechanical Drawing. Being
a Course of Progressive Lessons illustrated with many diagrams and
figures especially adapted to use of schools, colleges, etc. I2mo, cloth.
Illustrated. New York, 1899. $1.25
Halliday. First Course in Mechanical Drawing (Tracing). Folio, paper.
London, 1889. $O-75
Mechanical Graphics. A second course in Mechanical Drawing, with
preface by Professor Perry. Svo. London, 1889. $2.00
Hulme. Mathematical Drawing Instruments and How to Use Them.
4th edition. i2mo ? New York, 1890. $i.o
LIST OF BOOKS.
Low and Bevis. Manual of Machine Drawing and Design. 3d edition,

753 illustrations. 8vo. London, 1898. $2.50
MacCord. Practical Hints for Draughtsmen. Illustrated with 68 dia-
grams and full page plates. 3d edition, 410. New York, 1890. #2.50
Mechanical Drawing. Progressive Exercises and Practical Hints.
For the use of all who wish to acquire the Art, with or without the aid
of an Instructor. 232 illustrations. 410. New York, 1895. $4.00
Kinematics, or Practical Mechanics. A Treatise on the Transmis-

sion and Modification of Motion and the Construction of Mechanical
Movements. For the use of Draughtsmen, Machinists, and Students of
Mechanical Engineering, in which the laws governing the motions and
various parts of Mechanics, as affected by their forms and modes of con-
nection, are deduced by simple geometrical reasoning, and their applica-
tion is illustrated by accurately constructed diagrams of the different
mechanical combinations discussed. 4th edition. 8vo. New York.

1896. $5-oo
Mahan and Thompson. Industrial Drawing. Comprising the Descrip-
tion and Uses of Drawing Instruments, the Construction of Plane Fig-
ures, the Projections and Sections of Geometrical Solids, Architectural
Elements, Mechanism, and Topographical Drawing. Revised and en-
larged, and chapter on Colored Topography added. 30 plates. 8vo.
New York, 1890. $3. 50
Minifie. Mechanical Drawing. A Text-Book of Geometrical Drawing,
for the use of Mechanics and Schools, in which the Definitions and Rules
of Geometry are familiarly explained the Practical Problems are ar-
:
ranged from the most simple to the more complex, and in their descrip-
tion technicalities are avoided as much as possible. With illustrations
for Drawing Plans, Sections, and Elevations of Buildings and Machin-
ery; an Introduction to Isometrical Drawing, and an Essay on Linear

Perspective and Shadows. Illustrated by over 200 diagrams, engraved
on steel. With an Appendix on the Theory and Application of Colors.
8vo. New York, 1893. $4-oo
Geometrical Drawing. Abridged from the octavo edition, for the

use of Schools. Illustrated with 48 steel plates, gth edition. Revised
and enlarged. I2mo. New York, 1890. $2.00
Palmer. Mechanical Drawing, Projection Drawing, Geometric and Oblique

Drawing, Working Drawings. A Condensed Text for Class Room use.
8vo. Columbus, O. 1894. $i.QO
Ripper. Machine Drawing and Design for Technical Schools and Engi-
neer Students. Being a complete course of Instruction in Engineering
Drawing, with Notes and Exercises on the Application of Principles to
Engine and Machine Design, and on the Preparation of Finished Col-
ored Drawings. Illustrated by 52 plates and numerous explanatory
drawings. 8vo. London, 1897. 6.00
Roberts. Drawing and Designing for Marine Engineers. 2 1 large fold-
ing plates and many other illustrations throughout the text. Svo. Lon-
don, 1898. $3.00
Rose. Mechanical Drawing Self-Taught. Comprising Instructions in
the Selection and Preparation of Drawing Instruments, Elementary In-
struction in Practical Mechanical Drawing, together with Examples in
Simple Geometry and Elementary Mechanism, including Screw Threads,
Gear Wheels, Mechanical Motions, Engines and Boilers. Illustrated by
330 engravings. 4th edition, revised. Svo. Philadelphia, 1898. $4.00
Shaw. Mechanical Integrators. Including the various Forms of Pla-

nimeters. iSmo, boards. Illustrated. New York, 1886. $0.50
Smith. Graphics, or the Art of Calculation by Drawing Lines, applied
especially toMechanical Engineering. Part I. Text, with Separate Atlas
of Plates Arithmetic, Algebra, Trigonometry, Vector and Lecor Addi-
Machine Kinematics, and
tion, Statics of Flat and Solid Structures. Svo.
London, 1888. $5.00
Stanley. Descriptive Treatise on Mathematical Drawing Instruments,

their Construction, Uses, Qualities, Selection, Preservation, and Sugges-
tions for Improvements, with Hints upon Drawing and Coloring. 5th
edition. I2mo. London, 1878. $2.00
Tomkins. Principles of Machine Construction ; being an application of
Geometrical Drawing for the Representation of Machinery. Text I2mo,
Plates 4to. New York. $3. 50
Unwin. Elements of Machine Design. Part General Principles, Fas-

I.
tenings, and Transmissive Machinery.

i6th edition. I2mo. London,
1898. $2.00
Part II. Chiefly on Engine Details. I2mo. 131*1 edition, revised
and enlarged. London, 1895. $1.50
Warren. Elements of Machine Construction and Drawing or, Machine :
Drawing, with some elements of descriptive and rational kinematics.

Z vols. Text and plates. 8vo New York. $7.50
LIST OF BOOKS.
MECHANICAL ENGINEERS' HAND-BOOKS.

Adams. Hand-Book Mechanical Engineers. 2d edition. Revised
for
and enlarged, izmo.London, 1897. $2.50
Appleton's Cyclopaedia of Applied Mechanics a Dictionary of Mechani-
:
cal Engineering and the Mechanical Arts. Edited by Park Benjamin.

Nearly 7,000 illustrations. Revised and improved edition. 2 vols. Svo,
leather. New York, 1893. $15.00
Bale. Steam and Machinery Management A Guide to the Arrangement
:
and Economical Management of Machinery, with Hints on Construction

and Selection. Illustrated. 2d edition. I2mo. London, 1890. (Weale's
Series.) $1.00
Benjamin. Wrinkles and Recipes. Compiled from the Scientific Ameri-
can. A collection of Practical Suggestions, Processes, and Directions,
for the Mechanic, Engineer, Farmer, and Housekeeper. With a Color
Tempering Scale and Numerous Wood Engravings. 4th revised edition.
I2mo. New
York, 1894. $2.00
Byrne. Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engineer. Compris
ing the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abrasive Processes,
Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing and Lackering
Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and Polishing, etc. Svo.
Illustrated. Philadelphia, 1887. $5.00
Carpenter. Text-Book of Experimental Engineering. For Engineers and
for Students in Engineering Laboratories. 249 illustrations. 5th revised
edition. Svo. New York, 1898. $6.00
Chordal. Extracts from Chordal's Letters. Comprising the choicest
selections from the Series of Articles w hich have been appearing
r
for the
past two years in the columns of the American Machinist. With over 50
illustrations. New York, 1898.
I2mo. $2.00
Clark. Manual of Rules, Tables, and Data for Mechanical Engineers,
based on the most recent investigations. With numerous Diagrams.
6th edition. 1,012 pages. London, 1897. $5-OO
Mechanical Engineers' Pocket-Book of Tables, P'ormulae, Rules, and
Data. A Handy-Book of Reference for Daily Use in Engineering Prac-
tice. i6mo, mor. London, 1893. $3-oo
Dixon. The Machinists' and Steam Engineers' Practical Calculator.
A compilation of useful Rules and Problems, arithmetically solved, to-
gether with general information applicable to Shop Tools, Mill Gearing,
Pulleys and Shafts, Steam Boilers and Engines. Embracing valuable
Tables and Instructions in Screw Cutting, Valve and Link Motion. 2d
edition. i6mo, mor., pocket form. New York, 1892. #1.25
Engineering Estimates, Costs, and Accounts. A Guide to Commercial

Engineering. With numerous Examples of Estimates and Costs of Mill-
wright Work, Miscellaneous Productions, Steam Engines and Steam
Boilers, and a Section on the Preparation of Costs Accounts. By a Gen-
eral Manager. 8vo. London, 1890. $4.80
General Machinist, Being a Practical Introduction to the Leading Depart-
ments of Mechanism and Machinery, the Communication of Motion or
the Transmission of Force by Belt, Rope, Wire Rope, and Pulley Gearing
Toothed- Wheel and Frictional Gearing together with the details of
;
the component and essential parts of mechanism - Shafts, Pedestals,

Hanger, Clutches, etc., and of the methods of fitting up Machines, Screw
Bolts, Riveting, etc. By various practical writers and machinists. 75
illustrations and 4 folding plates. 8vo. London, 1891. $2.00
Grimshaw. Hints to Power Users. Plain, Practical Pointers, free from
high Science, and intended for the man who pays the bills. I2mo. New
York, 1891. $1.00
Hasluck. Mechanic's Workshop Handy-Book. A Practical Manual on
Mechanical Manipulation. Embracing Information on Various Handi-
craft Processes, with Useful Notes, and Miscellaneous Memoranda.
i2mo. London, 1888. $0.50
Haswell. Engineers' and Mechanics' Pocket Book, Containing Weights
and Measures, Rules of Arithmetic, Weights and Materials, Latitude and
Longitude, Cables and Anchors, Specific Gravities, Squares, Cubes, and
Roots, etc. Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids, Trigonometry, Me-
;
chanics, Friction, Aerostatics, Hydraulics and Hydrodynamics, Dynamics,

Gravitation, Animal Strength, Windmills, Strength of Materials, Limes,
Mortars, Cements, etc. ;
T
W
heels, Heat, Water, Gunnery, Sewers, Com-
bustion, Steam and the Steam Engine, Construction of Vessels, Miscel-
laneous Illustrations, Dimensions of Steamers, Mills, etc.; Orthography
of Technical Words and Terms, etc. 62d edition. Revised and enlarged.
I2mo, mor. tuck. New York, 1899. $4.00
Hawkins. Hand-Book of Calculations, for Engineers and Firemen ; re-
lating to the Steam Engine, the Steam Boiler, Pumps, Shafting, etc.
Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1898. $2.00

Button. Works Manager's Hand-Book of Modern
Rules, Tables, and
Data for Civil and Mechanical Engineers, Millwrights, and Boiler Makers,
Tool Makers, Machinists, and Metal Workers, Iron and Brass Founders,
etc. 5th edition, revised, with additions. 8vo, half-bound. London,
1895. $6.00
LIST OF BOOKS.
Hutton. Practical Engineer's Hand-Book. Comprising a Treatise on

Modern Engines and Boilers, Marine, Locomotive, and Stationary, and
containing a large Collection of Rules and Practical Data Relating to
Recent Practice in Designing and Constructing all kinds of Engines,
Boilers, and other Engineering Work. 5th edition, carefully revised, with
additions. 370 illustrations. 8vo. London, 1896. $7-oo
Kent. Mechanical Engineers' Pocket-Book. A Reference Book of Rules,
Tables, Data, and Formulae, for the Use of Engineers, Mechanics, and
Students. 1,087 pages. I2mo. New York, 1899. $5.00
Knight. American Mechanical Dictionary. A Descriptive Word Book
of Tools, Instruments, Chemical and Mechanical Processes; Civil, Me-
chanical, Railroad, Hydraulic, and Military Engineering. A History of
Inventions. General Technological Vocabulary, and Digest of Mechani-
cal Appliances in Science and the Industrial and Fine Arts.
3 vols.
Illustrated, 8vo. Boston, 1884. $24.00
Supplement to the above, $9.00
The 4 complete,
vols., $27.50
Lock-wood's Dictionary of Terms used in the Practice of Mechanical En-
gineering. Embracing those current
in the Drawing Office, Pattern Shop,
Foundry, Fitting, Turning, Smiths' and Boiler Shops, etc., comprising

upwards of 6,000 definitions. Edited by a Foreman Pattern Maker.
I2mo. London, 1888. $3.00
Molesworth. Pocket-Book of Useful Formulae and Memoranda for Civil
and Mechanical Engineers. 23d edition, revised and enlarged. Pocket-
book form. London, 1899. $2.00
Moore. Universal Assistant and Complete Mechanic :
Containing over
One Million Industrial Facts, Calculations, Receipts, Processes, Trade
Secrets, Rules, Business Forms, Legal Items, etc. Illustrated. I2mo.
New York. $2.50
Nystrom's Pocket-Book of Mechanics and Engineering. Revised and
corrected by W. D. Marks. 2Oth edition. Greatly enlarged. I2mo,
mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1895. $3. 50
Rankine. Useful Rules and Tables relating to Mensuration, Engineering
Structures, and Machines. 7th edition, thoroughly revised by W. J.
Millar. With Electrical Engineering Tables, Tests, and Formulae for the
use of Engineers, by Prof. A. Jamieson. I2mo. London, 1889. $4-o
Roper. Engineers' Handy-Book. Containing a full explanation of the
Steam Engine Indicator, and the Use and Advantage to Engineers and
Steam Users. With Formulas for estimating the Power of all Classes
D. VAN NOSTRAKD COMPANY.
of Steam Engines also Facts, Figures, Questions, and Tables, for Engi-
;
neers who
wish to qualify themselves for the United States Navy, the
Revenue Service, the Mercantile Marine, or to take charge of the better
class of stationary Steam Engines. Illustrated. I4th edition. i6mo,
mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1899. $3-5O
Scribner. Engineers' and Mechanics' Companion. Comprising United
States Weights and Measures, Mensuration of Superfices and Solids;
Tables of Squares and Cubes; Square and Cube Roots; Circumference
and Areas of Circles the Mechanical Powers Centres of Gravity Gravi-
; ; ;
tation of Bodies Pendulums Specific Gravity of Bodies Strength,

; ; ;
Weight, and Crush of Materials Water-wheels, Hydrostatics, Hydraulics,

;
Statics, Centres of Percussion and Gyration Friction Heat Tables of ; ;
the Weight of Metals, Scantling, etc. Steam and Steam Engine. 2Oth
;
edition, revised. i6mo, full mor. New York, 1890. $1.50
Spons' Tables and Memoranda for Engineers, and convenient reference

for the pocket. loth edition, 64mo, roan, gilt edges. London, 1889.
In cloth case. $0.50
Mechanics' Own Book. A Manual for Handicraftsmen and Ama-
teurs. Complete one large vol., 8vo, containing 700 pp. and 1,420
in
illustrations. 2d edition. London, 1898. $2.50
Dictionary of Engineering. Civil, Mechanical, Military, and Naval,

with Technical Terms in French, German, Italian, and Spanish. 8 vols.
8vo, cl. London, 1874. Each, $5.00
Supplement to above. 3 vols., cl. London, 1881. Each, $5.00
Templeton. Practical Mechanics' Workshop Companion. Completing

a great variety of the most useful Rules and Formulae in Mechanical
Science, with numerous Tables of Practical Data and Calculated Results
for Facilitating Mechanical Operations. 1 7th edition, revised, modernized,
and considerably enlarged, by Walter S. Hutton. i6mo, leather. Lon-
don, 1895. $2.00
Engineers', Millwrights', and Mechanics' Pocket Companion.
Comprising Decimal Arithmetic, Tables of Square and Cube Roots, Prac-
tical Geometry, Mensuration, Strength of Materials, Mechanical Powers,
Water Wheels, Pumps and Pumping Engines, Steam Engines, Tables of
Specific Gravity, etc. Revised, corrected, and enlarged from the 8th Eng-
lish edition, and adapted to American Practice, with the addition of much
new matter. Illustrated by J. W. Adams. I2mo, mor. tucks. New York,
1893. $2.00
LIST OF BOOKS.
Van Cleve. English and American Mechanic. An every-day Hand-Book

for the Workshop and Containing Several Thousand Re-
the Factory.
ceipts, Rules, and Tables indispensable to the Mechanic, the Artisan, and
the Manufacturer. A new, revised, enlarged, and improved edition.
Edited by Emory Edwards, M.E. I2mo. Philadelphia, 1893. $2.00
MECHANICS (ELEMENTARY AND APPLIED).

Church. Notes and Examples in Mechanics ;
with an Appendix on the
Graphical Statics of Mechanism. 128 illustrations and 6 plates. 8vo.
New York, 1897. $2.00
Cotterill. Applied Mechanics, an Elementary General Introduction to
the Theory of Structures and Machines. Illustrated. 3d edition. 8vo.
London, 1895. #5.00
and Slade. Lessons in Applied Mechanics. i2mo. London, 1894.
Net $1.2$
Dana. A Text-Book of Elementary Mechanics for the use of Colleges
and Schools. loth edition. I2mo. New York, 1898. $i-5
DuBois. Elementary Principles of Mechanics. Designed as a Text-Book
for technical schools. 3 vols. 8vo. New York.
Vol. I. Kinematics. $3.50
Vol. II. Statics. $4-o
Vol. III. Kinetics. $3-5
Garnett. Treatise on Elementary Dynamics. For the use of Colleges
and Schools. 5th edition. 8vo. London, 1889. Net $1.50
Geldard. Statics and Dynamics. Illus. i2mo. London, 1893. #1.50
Goodeve. Principles of Mechanics. New edition, rewritten and enlarged.
I2mo. London, 1889. $ 2 -5
Manual of Mechanics. An
Elementary Text-Book for Students of
Applied Mechanics. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1881. $0.80
Hancock. Text-Book of Mechanics and Hydrostatics. With over 500
diagrams. 8vo. New York, 1894. $ J -75
Hughes. Condensed Mechanics a selection
: of Formulas, Rules, Tables,
and Data for theof Engineering Students, Science Classes, etc., in
Use
accordance with the requirements of the Science and Art Department.
I2mo. London, 1891. $1.00
Jamieson. Elementary Manual of Applied Mechanics. Specially ar-

Year Science and and Guilds of
ranged for the use of First Art, City
London Institute, and other Elementary Engineering Students. 1 2mo.
London, 1898. $l 2$
-
>. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY.
Kennedy. Mechanics of Machinery. With numerous illustrations. i2mo.

London, 1886. $3-S
Kinematics of Machinery; or, The Elements of Mechanism. i6mo,
boards. New York, 1881. 0.50
Nystrom. New Treatise on Elements of Mechanics. 8vo. Philadelphia,
1875. #2 -
Perry. Applied Mechanics. Illustrated. i2mo. London, 1898.

$2.50
" Work
Practical Mechanics. Being the Fourth Volume of Amateur Il-
lustrated." Plates and illustrations. 4to. London. $3.00

Rankine. Applied Mechanics, comprising Principles of Statics, Cinemat-
and Dynamics, and Theory of Structures, Mechanism, and Machines.
ics,
I2mo. 1 5th edition, thoroughly revised, by W. J. Millard. London, 1898.
$5.00
and Bamber. Mechanical Text-Book or, Introduction to the Study
;
of Mechanics and Engineering. With numerous diagrams. 4th edition,

revised. 8vo. London, 1890. $3. 50
Stahl and Woods. Elementary Mechanism. A Text-Book for Students
of Mechanical Engineering. 7th edition, revised and enlarged. Illus-
trated. I2mo. New York, 1896. $2.00
Weisbach. Theoretical Mechanics, with an introduction to the Calculus.
Translated from the fourth German edition by E. B. Coxe. 8th edition,
revised. 8vo. New York, 1889. $10.00
Vol. II., Part i.
Hydraulics and Hydraulic Motors. $5.00
Vol. II., Part 2. Heat, Steam, and Steam Engines. $5-OO
Vol. III., Part i. Kinematics and Machinery of Transmission. $5.00
Vol. III., Part 2.
Machinery of Transmission and Governors. $5.00
Wood. Elements of Analytical Mechanics. With numerous examples
and illustrations. For use in Scientific Schools and Colleges. 7th edi-
tion, revised and enlarged, comprising Mechanics of Solids and Mechanics
of Fluids, of which Mechanics of Thirds is entirely new. 8vo. New
York, 1897. $3.00
Principles of Elementary Mechanics. Fully illustrated, gth edition.
I2mo. New York, 1894. $1.25
Wright. Text-Book of Mechanics. With numerous examples. 3d edi-
tion. I2mo. New York. $2.50
LIST OF BOOKS.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Amateur Mechanic's Workshop. A Treatise containing plain and concise
directions for the manipulation of Wood and Metals, including Casting,
" The
Forging, Brazing, Soldering, and Carpentry. By the author of
Lathe and its Uses." 7th edition. Illustrated. 8vo. London, 1888.
$3.00
Saunders. Compressed Air Production. Rules, tables, and illustrations
relating to the Theory and Practice of Air Compression and Compressed
Air Machinery. Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1898. $1.00
Smith. Workshop Management a Manual for Masters and Men, com-
:
prising a few Practical Remarks on the Economic Conduct of Workshops.

3d edition. I2mo. London, 1883. $0.80
Plympton, Prof. Geo. W. How to become an Engineer or, the Theo- ;
retical afld Practical Training necessary in fitting for the Duties of

the Civil Engineer. (Van Nostrand's Science Series). $0.50
STEAM AND STEAM ENGINES.

Alexander. Model Engine Construction. With Practical Instructions to
and Amateurs. Containing numerous illustrations and twenty-
Artificers
one Working Drawings, from Original Drawings by the Author. I2mo.
London, 1895. $3-oo
Baker. Treatise on the Mathematical Theory of the Steam Engine.
With Rules at length and Examples worked out, for the use of practical
men, with numerous diagrams. 8th edition. London, 1890. $0.60
Bale. How to Manage a Steam Engine a Handbook for all who use
;
Steam. Illustrated, with examples of different Types of Engines and

Boilers with Hints on their Construction, Working, Fixing, Economy
;
of Fuel. etc. 7th edition. i2mo. London, 1890. $0.80

Bourne. Catechism of the Steam Engine in its various Applications to
Mines, Mills, etc. New edition, enlarged. Illustrated. I2mo. New

York, 1897. $2.00
Hand-Book of the Steam Engine, containing all the Rules required
for the right Construction and Management of Engines of every Class,
with the easy Arithmetical Solution of those Rules. Illustrated. I2mo.
New York. 1892. $i-75
Burn. Steam Engine, its History and Mechanism. 3d edition. 8vo.
Illustrated. London, 1857. $1.00
Clark. Steam and the Steam Engine, Stationary and Portable. (Being
an Extension of the Elementary Treatise on the Steam Engine, of Mr.
John Sevvell.) 4th edition. London, 1892. $i .40
The Steam Engine. A Treatise on Steam Engines and Boilers ;
comprising the Principles and Practice of the Combustion of Fuel, the

Economical Generation of Steam, the Construction of Steam Boilers,
and the principles, construction, and performance of Steam Engines,
Stationary, Portable, Locomotive, and Marine, exemplified in Engines
and Boilers of recent date. Illustrated by above 1 ,300 figures in the text,
and a series of folding plates drawn to scale. 2 vols. 8vo. London,
1895. #15.00
Colyer. Treatise on Modern Steam Engines and Boilers, including Land,
Locomotive, and Marine Engines and Boilers. For the use of Students.
With 46 plates. 4to. London, 1886. $5.00
Cotterill. Steam Engine considered Thermodynamic Machine. A
as a
Treatise on the Thermodynamic Efficiency of Steam Engines. Illus-
trated by tables, diagrams, and examples from practice. 3d edition, re-
vised and enlarged. 8vo. London. 1896. net $4.50
Diesel. Theory and Construction of a Rational Heat Motor. Translated
from the German by Bryan Donkin. With eleven figures in the text and
three plates. Svo. London, 1894. #2.50
Edwards. American Steam Engineer, Theoretical and Practical. With
Examples of the latest and most approved American Practice on the De-
sign and Construction of Steam Engines and Boilers of every description.
For the use of Engineers, Machinists, Boiler Makers, etc. Illustrated by
77 engravings. I2mo. Philadelphia, 1893. $2.50
Practical Steam Engineers' Guide
in the Design, Construction, and
Management American Stationary, Portable, and Steam Fire Engines,

of
Steam Pumps, Boilers, Injectors, Governors, Indicators, Pistons, and
Rings, Safety Valves and Steam Gauges. For the use of Engineers,
Firemen, and Steam Users. Illustrated. 3d edition, revised and cor
rected. 12 mo. Philadelphia, 1898. #2.50
Evers. Steam and other Prime Movers. A Text-Book both Theoretical
and Practical. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1890. $1.50
Steam and the Steam Engine ; Land, Marine, and Locomotive II
lustrated. I2mo. New York. $1.00
Ewing. Steam Engine and other Heating Engines. Illustrated. 8 vex

Cambridge, 1897. #3-75
LIST OF BOOKS.
Goodeve. Text-Book on the Steam Engine. With a Supplement on Gas

Engines and on Heat Engines. I2th edition, enlarged. I2mo. 143
illustrations. London, 1893. $2.00
Gould. Arithmetic of the Steam Engine. i2mo. N. Y. 1898. $1.00
Grimshaw. Steam Engine Catechism. A series of direct practical an
swers to direct practical questions, mainly intended for young engineers
and for examination questions. loth edition, enlarged and improved.
i8mo. New York, 1897. $2.00
Haeder. Hand-Book on the Steam Engine with especial Reference to
Small and Medium sized Engines. For the Use of Engine Makers, Me-
chanical Draughtsmen, Engineering Students, and Users of Steam
Power. i2mo. London, 1896.
1,100 illustrations. $3-oo
Henthorn. CorlissEngine and its Management. Edited by E. P. Watson.
3d edition, enlarged with an appendix, by Emil Herter. Illustrated.
i8mo. New York, 1897. $1.00
Holmes. Steam Engine. 212 illustrations. loth edition. I2mo. London,
1898. $2.00
This isa complete practical and theoretical treatise on the steam-engine, written in
very clear and beautiful style, rendering the more abstruse principles of the subject as
plain and simple as it is probably possible to make them. It is one of the best, if not the
best, combinations of theoretical investigation and practical applications in the whole lite-
rature of the subject, and forms an admirable companion to Ripper's smaller and more
exclusively practical treatise.
Jamieson. Text-Book of Steam and Steam Engines. loth edition, with

numerous diagrams, four folding plates and examination questions. I2tno.
London, 1897. $3.00
Elementary Manual on Steam and the Steam Engine. With nu-
merous diagrams, arithmetical examples, and examination questions.
I2mo. London, 1898. $1.40
Lardner. Treatise on ths Steam Engine, for the use of Beginners. i6th
edition. Illustrated. London, 1893. $0.60
Le Van. Steam Engine and the Indicator their Origin and Progressive
;
Development, including the most recent examples of Steam and Gas

Motors, together with the Indicator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Ap-
plication. Illustrated by 205 Engravings, chiefly of Indicator Cards. 8vo.
Mallet. Compound Engines. i6mo, boards. New York, 1884. $0.50
Marks. Relative Proportions of the Steam Engine. i2mo. Illustrated.
3d edition. Philadelphia, 1896. $3.00
Peabody. Table of the Properties of Saturated Steam and other Vapors.
8vo. New York, 1888. #1.00
D. VAN NOSTKAND COMPANY,
Pray. Steam Tables and Engine Constants. For facilitating all calcu-
lations upon Indicator Diagrams or Various Problems connected with
the operation of the Steam Engine, from reliable data and with precision
compiled from Regnault, Rankine, and Dixon directly, making use of the
exact records. 8vo. New York, 1894. $2.00
Rankine. Manual of the Steam Engine and other Prime Movers, with
numerous tables and illustrations. I2mo. ijth edition. London, 1897.
$5.00
Rigg. Practical Treatise on the Steam Engine, containing Plans and
Arrangements of Details for Fixed Steam Engines, with Essays on the

Principles involved in Design and Construction. Copiously illustrated
with woodcuts and 96 plates. 4to. 2d edition. New York, 1894.
$10.00
Ripper. Steam. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1889. $1.00
This work based upon a course of lectures given to an evening class of young me-
is
chanical engineers on steam, steam-engines, and boilers. It is remarkably clear, concise,

and practical no superfluous matter is introduced, and every page goes directly to the
;
point. It is the best book for beginners, and also for those who wish to have a manual
embracing the practical features of the subjects in small compass.
Roper. Hand-Book of Modern Steam Fire Engines including the run-

;
ning, care, and management of Steam Fire Engines and Fire Pumps.
2d edition, revised and corrected by H. L. Stellwagen. Illustrated.
I2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3-5

Hand-Book Land and Marine Engines, including the Modelling,
of
Construction, Running, and Management of Land and Marine Engines

and Boilers, gth edition, revised, enlarged, and improved. i2mo, mor.
tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3-5
Catechism of High Pressure or Non-Condensing Steam Engines,
including the Modelling, Constructing, Running, and Management of
Steam Engines and Steam Boilers. 2Oth edition, revised and enlarged.
Illustrated. i2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.00
Young Engineer's Own Book. Containing nn Explanation of the

Principle and Theories on which the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is
based, with a description of different kinds of Steam Engines, Condens-
ing and Non Condensing, Marine, Stationary, Locomotive, Fire, Trac
tion, and Portable. 106 illustrations. 3d edition, revised. 16 mo, mor.
tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3.00
Rose. Modern Steam Engines. An Elementary Treatise upon the
Steam Engine, written in Plain Language for use in the Workshop as
;
well as in the Drawing Office. Giving Full Explanations of the Con-

LIST OF BOOKS.
struction ofModern Steam Engines; including Diagrams showing their

Actual Operation together with
;
Comr^te but Simple Explanation of
the Operations of various kinds of Valve Motions, and Link
"^Wes,
Motions, etc., thereby enabling the o^Rary engineer to clearly under-
stand the Principles involved in their (Bistruction and use, and to Plot
out their movements upon the Draw* Board. New edition, revised
and improved. 453 illustrations. 4td^ Philadelphia, 1897. $6.00
Key to Engines and Engine Running. A Practical Treatise upon
the Management of Steam Engines and Boilers, for the use of those
who desire to pass an Examination to take Charge of an Engine or
Boiler. With numerous Illustrations and Instructions upon Engineers'
Calculations, Indicator Diagrams, Engine Adjustments, and other Valu-
able Information necessary for Engineers and Firemen. I2mo. N.Y.
1899. $2.50
Thurston. History of the Growth of the Steam Engine. 4th revised
edition. Illustrated. I2mo. New York, 1897. $2.50
Manual of the Steam Engine. For Engineers and Technical
Schools. Part I. Structure and Theory. Illustrated. 8vo. New
York, 1897. $6.00
^
;>
Part II. Design, Construction, and Operation. Illustrate^ 8vo. New

York, 1897. #6.
Or in sets. $10.
Hand-Book of Engine and Boiler Trials, and of the Indicator and
Prony Brake, for Engineers and Technical Schools. Illustrated. 8v^|
New York, 1897. $5.00
Stationary Steam Engines, Simple and Compound, especially as
adapted to Electric Lighting Purposes. 5th edition, revised, with addi-
tions. Illustrated. I2mo. New York, 1893. $2.50
Turnbull. Treatise on the Compound Engine. 2d edition, revised and
-
enlarged by Prof. S. W. Robinson. i6mo, boards. New York, 1884.
$0.50
Watson. Small Engines and Boilers. A Manual of Concise and
Specific Directions for the Construction of Small Steam Engines and
Boilers of Modern Types from five horse-power down to model sizes.
I2mo, cloth. Illustrated with numerous diagrams and half tone cuts.
NewYork, 1899. $1.25
Weisbach. Heat, Steam, and Steam Engine. Translated from the 4th
Containing notes giving
edition of Vol. II. of Weisbach's Mechanics.
examples of Stationary, Marine, and Locomotive Engines,
practical
showing American practice, by R. H. Buel. Numerous illustrations.
8yo. New York, 1891. $5.00
D. VAX NOSTRAND COMPANY.
Whitham. Steam Engine Design. For the use of Mechanical Engi-
neers, Students, and* Draughtsmen. 3d edition, revised. With 210
illustrations. 8vo. New York, 1898. $5.00
Descriptive Treatise on Constructive Steam Engineering, embra-
cing Engines, Pumps, and Boilers, and their accessories and appendages.
Illustrations and many folding plates. Svo. New York, 1897. $6.00
Yeo, John. Steam and the Marine Steam Engine. Svo. London, 1894.
$2.50
This book isintended more particularly for engineers of the Royal Navy, but will be
exceedingly useful to those of ths mercantile mari ic as well. It is almost entirely de-
scriptive, and is noteworthy for what it omits
as well as for what it contains. Although
treating exclusively of the marine engine and boiler, there is so much i;i it that is general
to all branches of steam engineering, and the whole is so well and clearly expressed, and
shows such a profound knowledge of the subject, that it cannot foil to be of the highest
value to the general student.
TRANSMISSION OF POWER, BELTING, ETC.

Compressed Air. Experiments upon the Transmission of Power by
Compressed Air, in Paris (Popp's System), and the Transmission and
Distribution of Power from Central Stations by Compressed Air. Illus-
trated. i6mo. New York, 1892. $0.50

Toothed Gearing. A Practical Hand-Book for Offices and Workshops.
By a Foreman Pattern Maker. 184 illustrations. I2mo. London,
1892. $2.50
Unwin. On the Development and Transmission of Power from Central
Stations. Being the Howard lectures delivered at the Society of Arts
in 1893. Illustrated. Svo. New York, 1894. $3. 50
VALVES AND VALVE GEARS.

Auchincloss. Practical Application of the Slide- Valve and Link-Motion
to Stationary, Portable, Locomotive, and Marine Engines, with new and
simple methods for proportioning the parts. Illustrated, ijth edition,

revised and enlarged. Svo. New York, 1897. $2.0x3
Bankson. Slide Valve Diagrams. A French Method of Obtaining

Slide Yalve Diagrams. 8 Plates. i6mo. New York, 1892. $0.50
Buel. Safety Valves. i6mo, boards. New York, 1876. $0.50
Halsey. Slide Valve Gears an explanation of the action and construc-
;
tion of plain and cut-off slide valves. Analysis by the Bilgram Diagram.
79 illustrations. 3d edition, I2mo. New York, 1894. 51.50
LIST OF BOOKS.
Le Van. Safety Valves ;

Their History, Antecedents, Invention, and
Calculation. 69 Illustrations. I2mo. New York, 1892. $2.00
MacCord. Treatise on the Movement of the Eccentric upon the Slide
Valve, and explaining the Practical Process of Laying out the Move-
ments, adapting the Valve for its various duties in the Steam Engine,
for the Use of Engineers, Draughtsmen, Machinists, and Students of
Valve Motion in general. 2d edition. 4to. Illustrated. New York,
1883. $2.50
Peabody. Valve Gears and Steam Engines. 33 Plates. 8vo. New
York, 1898. $2.50
Rose. Slide Valve Practically Explained. Embracing Simple and
Complete Practical Demonstrations of the Operations of each Element
in a Slide- Valve Movement, and illustrating the effects of variations in
their proportions, by examples carefully selected from the most recent
and successful practice. Illustrated. I2mo. Philadelphia, 1895. $1.00
Spangler. Valve Gears. 2d edition, revised and enlarged. 8vo. New-

York, 1898. $2.50
Welch. Treatise on a Practical Method of Designing Slide Valve Gear-
ing by Simple Geometrical Construction, based upon the principles enun-
ciated in Euclid's Elements, and comprising the various forms of Plain
Slide Valveand Expansion Gearing; together with Stephenson's, Gooch's,
and Allen's Link Motions, as applied either to reversing or to variable
expansion combinations. I2mo. London, 1875. $ l -5
Zeuner. Treatise on Valve Gears, with Special consideration of the link

motions of locomotive engines. 4th edition. Translated by Prof. J. F.
Klein. 8vo. London, 1884. $5-
E.<5F.N.SPON,L
125, STRAND.
LONDON.
RETURN CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
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UC-NRLF

CONCISE AND SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS FOR THE CON-

FROM FIVE HORSE POWER DOWN TO MODEL SIZES,

AMATEURS AND OTHERS INTERESTED IN SUCH WORK.

Illustrated by jo Full Page Working Dimensioned Drawings^

D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY.

C. J. PETERS & SON, TYPOGRAPHERS,

THE intention of the author in writing this work

has been assumed that those who need a guide of.

thiskind have some acquaintance with ordinary

aged. They have ample grates and heating

continuously with good fuel and management.

will be of service to those who have had but a

High expansion engines have not been treated,

Introductory; Illustration of Vertical Engine .... 1-3

Drawings. Example of Skeleton Drawing. Explanation

Plans for Vertical Engine of 3" by 4" Cylinder. Illustra-

Stroke; View of Horizontal Engine 11-17

Discursive as to Ways and Means of doing Work the ;

Best Tools for the Purpose and Methods employed

Engine Details.Figured Plans for Various Members of

Further Details. Ways and Means, and the

CHAPTER VII. PAGE

The Link Motion and How to Construct it. Remarks

The Bed-plate Illustrated and Remarks upon the Neces-

Plans for Valve-stem, Stuffing-box, and Connecting-rod.

The Horizontal Engine and How to Build it. Full Fig-

Discussion of Boilers and Figured Plans for Small Pow-

THE difference between amateur work of all

and since they are easily remedied there is no

but as these are easily obtainable in all parts of

several mediums employed will be enumerated in

and to impart elegance of appearance ;

not require to be of great thickness, even. for very

being of the same thickness. No accident ever

der was entirely within the limits of safety. In

the machine as a whole is lighter o and not im-

it arises from a desire to see how the machine

quence, it looks badly. Parts are shoved together

teur work reason that it is requisite to

it isworth doing well.

spent upon such work is wasted, for the job com-

he will have an engine and a boiler that will do a

and no detail is beyond the capacity of a lathe

AN amateur should never make any machine

necessary preliminary he may find that he has to

designed properly on the start never comes right

It is not necessary to show every bolt and nut

ing in its incipiency. The first thing is to draw

centre line A, which shows the centre of the

by 3-inch stroke, the piston is to be I of i inch

the length of the cylinder would be top flange :

port including clearance, and bottom flange

ness as the flanges and the stuffing-box is i inch,

including the gland when in its working position.

inches over flanges, and 6i inches over stuffing-