GO - Strategy and Tactics

by

John Franklin Moore

Contents

1. The Game of GO
2. Opening Play
3. Capturing
4. Territory
5. Forbidden Plays
6. End of Game
7. Scoring
8. Strategy Summary
1. The Game of GO
The game of Go uses a board and black and white tokens.
1.1. Board
The GO board (figure 1) has 19 vertical and 19 horizontal lines, with nine specially marked
points. You can also play GO on a 13 by 13 board for faster and easier games.

Figure 1
1.2. Stones
GO uses pebble-like stones, colored black or white. The weaker player gets the black stones.
1.3. Turns
You play by placing one stone from your box on a point where two lines cross; you do not
move stones from point to point on the board. You may also pass your turn. There is no time limit
for making a move.
1.4. Object of the Game
You try to surround as many points as possible with your stones, and prevent the other player
from surrounding territory. This requires you to capture opposing stones and protect your stones.
1.5. Using this Book
This book uses a game between two beginners to illustrate the rules and all possible situations
in GO.
You should play each move of the game described in this book on a real GO board as you read
each section. This will give you the feel of a real game and help you remember the actual patterns
of play that appear in GO.
After you have played through the game in this book, you will be ready to play a good game
against most GO players.
2. Opening Play

2.1. First Move

Black plays first.
If both players agree on a handicap, Black's first turn is the placement of 2 to 9 stones on the
marked points on the board (figure 1), in a symmetrical pattern. Place 2 stones in the upper right
and lower left corners, leaving White's right hand corner empty. Place 3 stones in the upper right,
lower left, and lower right corners, leaving White's right hand corner empty. Place 4 stones in the 4
corners. Place 5 stones in the 4 corners and in the center. Place 6 stones in the 4 corners and on the
right and left sides. Place 7 stones in the 4 corners, on the right and left sides, and in the center.
Place 8 stones in the 4 corners and the 4 sides. Place 9 stones on all the points.
If there is no handicap, Black plays first near one of the marked points in his or her right hand
corner, usually at 1 or r (see figure 2). Plays at s are somewhat weaker than at 1 or r, but may be
used in other corners later, depending on the configurations of stones already on the board. Do not
play at any other point in the corner, because it is either too far or too close to the corner.
You try to surround the corner territory first because it is easiest and quickest. The corner is
also the best place from which to surround territory on the sides and in the center. In general, you
can only control a side by extending from a corner, and the center by extending from a side.
Figure 2
 Black White
1. c16 2. e17

Note: The board diagrams and the lists of moves show where to put the black and white stones.
For example, the first move might be to put a black stone where the c line crosses the 16 line: c16.
Odd number moves are for black stones, and even number moves are for white stones.
Stones might also be removed from the board. Arrowheads under a board position on a diagram
show where to remove stones. In the list of moves, an * and a number indicate how many of the
opponent's stones to remove after a move.

2.2. Second Move

White (even numbers on the board) responds to Black's first move by playing 2 or 3 points
away from Black's stone (figure 2), at 2 or x, or y or z. White can also make the first move in
another corner of the board, to start building a position there. Both types of play are equally good.
Play in the same corner signals an aggressive, tactical game. Play in another corner signals a subtle,
strategic game.
Do not choose any other second move. A play at w makes it easy for the stone to be captured
against the side. A play at u is too far from the side to control territory in the corner or along the
side. A play at v is wasted at this time, since Black has effectively blocked off that side of the
corner. Any play adjacent to Black invites attack and fails to stake out territory.
On all moves, make attacking plays that help surround territory, if possible. Before making a
defensive play, first make an attacking move.
Figure 3
 Black White
1. c16 2. e17
3. c3 4. e4
5. q4 6. r6
7. q17 8. c14
9. r15 10. g17

2.3. Other Early Moves

The lower right corner of figure 3 shows the best plays for White (at O or r) when Black plays
on the 4-4 point (the marked point). Do not play at w, v, or u, for the reasons given before.
The lower left corner of the board shows the best plays for White (at O and r) when Black plays
on the 3-3 point. Do not play at w, v, or u, for the reasons given before.
These two-stone positions are also the best if both stones are the same color, as in the upper
right corner, because these are the positions where each stone has the most influence.
2.4. The 3-3 Point
The 3-3 point (where the third lines cross) is the most important for control of the corner
territory, since it guards both sides, protects adjacent stones, and potentially controls 10 points.
In the upper left corner (figure 3), White cannot go to the 3-3 point immediately since Black
can attack White and trap White stones against the side. Black should not go there immediately
since this leaves the Black stones too close together, making less territory and inviting attack on a
small group. To control this point, place a stone near the 3-3 point after first playing a protecting
stone, staking out territory, and attacking the other player's protecting stone(s).
In the lower right corner (where Black is on the 4-4 point), White must attack the Black stone,
and Black must protect it, in order to control the 3-3 point.
In the lower left corner (where Black is on the 3-3 point), Black must make this stone safe from
capture, while White tries to surround it.
In the upper right corner (where White has not yet played), White must prepare to attack the
stones surrounding the 3-3 point by moving in from one side.
2.5. Early Strategy
In the upper left corner (figure 3), White is blocking Black from extending out the side and is
surrounding Black from the outside, while trying to capture Black's stones surrounding the 3-3
point. White is in better position for the sides and center. Black is blocking White from penetrating
into the corner and is preparing to surround the corner territory and the 3-3 point. Black is in better
position in the corner. The position is equal for both players.
In the upper right corner, White will play at t to block Black from extending to the side and then
attack the stones surrounding the 3-3 point, trying to surround Black from the outside. Black will
try to escape to one side and secure the corner by protecting the two stones.
In the lower left corner, White will try to hold the bottom side and encroach on the corner.
Black will try to gain the left side and hold the corner.
In the lower right corner, White has the right side and will try to go under Black into the corner.
Black has the bottom side and will try to seal off the corner.
In all cases, one player will try to secure the corner and extend out to a side, and one will try to
surround the corner and extend to one or both sides. The positions of the first two stones determine
which strategy to follow.
2.6. Corner Play
Figure 4 shows four patterns of play in corners.
The upper left corner leads to control of the corner by Black, while White surrounds and
extends to both sides. White's attacks are likely to fail since each stone is supported. Black should
gain territory in the corner while White gains territory on both sides. White will have the advantage
when play moves to the center.
The lower left corner shows Black taking one side and White the other, while the corner is split
along the middle. Neither side is attacking, as both concentrate on staking out territory. How
efficiently they secure control of each side and how they link to the other corners will determine
how they fare in the center.
The lower right corner shows Black and White attacking for control of the corner, while each
has control over a side. Black or White could surround the other or secure the corner. This corner is
likely to be a draw with little extension to the sides. The fight will spread from the corner to both
sides and the center at the same time. Whoever links to the other corners quickest and best will
control the center.
Figure 4
 Black White
1. c16 2. e17
3. r17 4. c4
5. e4 6. p16
7. r4 8. o3
9. r6 10. c14
11. h4 12. c7
13. p18 14. r16
15. p17 16. q16
17. q17 18. h17
19. e6 20. q4
21. d17 22. q13

2.7. Extensions
Extensions from the corner stones toward the side and center stake out territory. Extend along
the 3rd or 4th line to a point two points away from the side's marked point, if no other stones are
near, as illustrated by Black at M or r in the lower left corner (figure 4).
Extending a distance of three points from your own stone along the 3rd or 4th line along the
side is best, as shown by White at O or s in the top left corner, and by Black and White in the lower
left corner. Extending four or more points is not advisable since an opposing stone can go between
your stones without fear of attack.
If you must protect a stone extend only two points, since any opposing stone cannot break into
your line without being attacked. Black (at M or r) and White (at O or s) have extended two points
in the lower right corner since their stones are under attack.
Extending a distance of two points is also best when extending toward the center since defense
is more important in that direction. Black has extended two points toward the center in the lower
left corner.
Farther extensions may be made from strong groups of stones. If two or more stones are in a
line, extensions should be made out from the face of the line of stones, not from the ends. This
surrounds territory better. White has made such an extension in the upper right corner.
Each of the patterns of extensions is also good if the extended stone is of the opposite color,
since this prevents good extensions by the opponent and places stones where they have the most
influence.
2.8. Walls and Corners
Once territory is staked out, make walls and corners to make safer groups of stones. A wall of
White and a corner and wall of Black are illustrated in the upper right corner (figure 4). Walls and
corners prevent penetration of territory and make larger groups of stones that are harder to
surround.
You should force the other player toward your walls and corners, and stay away from his or her
walls and corners, since they block extensions and escapes.
3. Capturing
3.1. Groups of Stones
Stones adjacent to each other, above or below, right or left, make a group. The four Black
stones in the upper right corner (figure 5) are a group; so are the three White stones there. The
White stone at the 4-4 point in the upper left corner is not a member of the group of two White
stones there since it is diagonal to one of the two stones.
Figure 5
 Black White
23. b16 24. c17
25. c18 26. b17
27. b18 28. d16
29. a17 *2 30. s17
31. s16 32. o17
33. r15 34. o18
35. o16 36. r3
37. p15 38. s4
39. r5 40. q5

41. c5 42. s5
43. q6 44. p6
45. d4 46. q7
47. c3 48. b4
49. b5 50. r7
51. s6 52. s7
53. b3 54. a4
55. i8 56. a5
57. a6 58. i7
59. pass 60. i9

61. pass 62. h8

63. pass 64. k8 *1
65. a3 *4 66. t6 *5

3.2. Capturing a Group of Stones

To capture a group of the other player's stones, you must completely surround them. White
stones surround a Black stone in the center of the board (figure 5), Black stones surround a group
of two White stones in the upper left corner, and White stones surround a group of five Black
stones in the lower right corner.
Black stones and the edge of the board surround a group of four White stones in the lower left
corner. The edge of the board acts like a row of your stones when it is your turn, so this group of
White stones is surrounded.
The edge of the board acts like a row of opposing stones when it is your opponent's turn. For
this reason, you should always treat a stone beside the edge of the board as if there is a stone of
opposite color next to it.
Only stones above, below, right, and left of a group of stones can surround it. Placing a stone at
x does not help surround the two White stones in the upper left corner. Placing a stone at y does not
help surround the four White stones in the lower left corner. Placing a stone at z does not help
surround the five Black stones in the lower right corner.
When you completely surround a group of stones during your turn, you must remove all the
stones in the group from the board and place them in a pile beside you. You do not remove stones
diagonal to the group. For example, the White stone on the 4-4 point in the upper left corner is not
in the group of two stones and will remain on the board when Black removes the two White stones.
You never remove any of your own stones from the board.
3.3. Atari
When your play leaves only one open point remaining around a group (as for both Black and
White in the upper right corner of figure 5), you must say "atari" to point out the situation. GO is a
game won by superior skill in tactics and strategy, not through trickery, error, or oversight.
3.4. The Edge of the Board
Because the edge of the board helps your opponent surround a group, your groups should not
grow toward a side except to capture stones or finish surrounding a territory.
If your stones appear trapped against a side, do not waste moves defending them, since you will
only lose more stones. If you trap a group against the side, do not capture the stones immediately.
Only capture them when the territory is threatened. If the territory is safe, they will be awarded to
you at the end of the game.
3.5. Attacking
To attack a group, play first on the point that takes away the most opportunities for the group's
expansion, to keep that group small and bunched. If there are two such points, play first on the side
nearer the center; plays nearer the side should be made only to complete an attack and make a
capture. Black should play on z in the upper center (figure 6) to take away White's opportunities to
expand toward the center.
If you cannot block expansion, play first on the point that helps prevent the other player from
making a wall or corner. White should play on y in the lower center to prevent a wall.
If you cannot prevent expansion and cannot prevent a wall or corner, play on a point that is
diagonal to the opponent's territory. White's play at x in the upper right corner threatens to enter
Black's territory there.
If you cannot prevent expansion, cannot prevent a wall or corner, and cannot threaten to enter
territory, play on a point that surrounds territory or prevents the adversary from surrounding
territory.
Figure 6
 Black White
59. m4 60. m5
61. h16 62. n4
63. g17 64. m3
65. l4 66. l5
67. h18 68. i17
69. i16 70. i5
71. i18 72. k17
73. l17 74. h5
75. i4 76. g4
77. g3 78. k5
79. p8 80. r1
81. q8 82. i9
83. p7 84. h8
85. r8 86. k8 *1
87. b6 88. e8
89. s18 90. f5
91. s8

3.6. Defending
To defend a group, play first on the point that gives the most opportunities for the group's
expansion, to help the group become large and long. If there are two such points, play first on the
side nearer the center; plays nearer the side should be made only to secure territory. White should
play on z in the upper center (figure 6) to expand toward the center.
If you cannot expand, play first on the point that helps make a wall or corner. Black should play
on y in the lower center to make a wall.
If you cannot expand and cannot make a wall or corner, play on a point that is diagonal to your
territory to defend against entry. Black's play at v in the upper right corner defends against White's
entry.
If you cannot expand, cannot make a wall or corner, and cannot prevent threats to enter your
territory, play on a point that surrounds territory or prevents the adversary from surrounding
territory.
3.7. Attacking or Defending
When you are defending or attacking, you must count the open points around the attacking and
defending groups to make sure your stones will not be captured before you complete your attack or
defense.
Make long and large groups, because then many more stones must be used to surround you.
Also, large and long groups help surround territory.
Each group should have a path along which to grow toward the center (best) or along the side.
Do not enlarge groups toward the edge except to seal off territory.
It is better not to attack or defend groups of one or two stones, unless it helps in preventing or
helping expansion, preventing or making walls and corners, or penetrating or surrounding territory.
It is more important to make territory than to capture.
3.8. Completing Capture
In disputed territory, play to complete the capture a group of stones, before further play
deprives you of the opportunity. Capturing is better than merely securing territory since you get
points for both the stones captured and the territory you now control. White has captured the five-
stone Black group in the lower right corner (figure 7) and will gain five points for the territory and
five for the captured stones.
3.9. Postponing Capture
You should postpone capture only if capture is certain at all times in the future. This occurs
only when the other player cannot enter the territory diagonally or directly without losing stones.
Stones certain to be captured are automatically credited to you at the end of the game. You
should not use your stones to capture these stones, since you will fill up your territory and reduce
the number of empty points you surround. Black has a secure area in the lower left corner
(figure 7), so no actual capture is necessary there.
3.10. Sacrificing
You may sacrifice one or two stones in order to keep on the attack. A sacrifice should make the
other player expend two or three moves to make the capture, while you use your moves to surround
a larger group or territory. White can play at z in the upper right corner (figure 7) in hopes Black
will take two moves to capture the stone, while White plays into the corner.
3.11. Playing into Opposing Territory
Do not enter opposing territory unless you can play fewer than twice as many stones as you will
lose. Usually, it is not wise to enter opposing territory.
If the other player surrounds ten or more points of open territory, or surrounds less points but
you surround his or her stones, play stones into the territory to force him or her to capture your
stones and so fill up the territory. Play first on the points that prevent the opponent from making the
territory safe, then on the points that allow you to enter the territory diagonally. Black plays on x in
White's territory in the lower right hand corner (figure 7), and then fills up the inside, threatening to
surround Black from outside and inside. This makes White play at y to make an eye and later fill
this territory in to capture the Black stones. White also must play carefully to be able to make the
territory safe.
Figure 7
Black White
92. t6 *5
93. d5 94. c9
95. e3 96. f3
97. e2 98. f2
99. e1 100. a2
101. d2 102. b2
103. c1 104. c15
105. o6 106. d15
107. p5 108. b15
109. p4 110. a15
111. q3 112. t5
113. r2 114. q2
115. s3 116. q1
117. t7 118. o5
119. t4
4. Territory
4.1. Groups of Points
Territory is a group of unoccupied points that is completely surrounded by stones of one color
(or the sides of the board). The points are all right, left, above, or below each other. Figure 8 shows
a territory completely surrounded by Black in the upper right corner. Points diagonal to points in a
territory are not part of the territory; point s is not part of the territory in the upper right corner.
Stones on a diagonal to points in a territory do not help surround the territory. A Black stone at t
does not help surround the Black territory. A White stone at r does not surround the Black territory.
Stones of either color may be scattered inside a territory, as shown in the lower left corner.
These points are not territory. Territory is only empty points.
Figure 8
 Black White
120. d18
121. c19 122. f18
123. f17 124. d19
125. g18 126. f19
127. g19 128. e19
129. e16 130. o7
131. p19 132. n6
133. t19

4.2. Eyes
An eye is an unoccupied point with four stones of one color (or the sides of the board) around
it. The territory in the lower left corner (figure 8) has two eyes in it.
When the outside of the territory is surrounded and there is only one eye in a territory, a play
into that eye captures the group. White territory with one eye is shown in the upper left corner.
Since Black surrounds the White stones on the outside, Black can capture all six White stones in
one more move by occupying the inside.
4.3. Two Eyes
Two eyes temporarily make a safe territory, since two plays would be needed to fill up the
territory. Territory with two eyes is not permanently safe if the stones making the eyes can be
captured. Black has two eyes in the upper left corner (figure 8), but White can capture one stone
and remove an eye.
4.4. Securing Eyes
To make eyes secure, you must occupy or surround the diagonal corners of the eyes. If three of
the four corners of an eye are so controlled, the eye is safe. All Black's eyes in the lower left corner
(figure 8) are safe.
4.5. Territories with More than Six Empty Points
You can always make two safe eyes in territories with more than six empty points. If the
opponent plays into the territory, play first on an eye-making point. Black was able to make a safe
territory in the lower left corner (figure 9).
Therefore, you must play your stones right from the beginning, and throughout the game, to
make territories of at least seven points. While you are attempting this, you should also make the
shapes of the territories ones that form safe eyes, since the other player can usually limit your
territory to less than seven points. White has made territory with one of the shapes for safe eyes in
the lower right corner.
Territory with six or fewer points can be made safe if the stones surrounding it are safe from
capture. If those stones can be attacked, the territory is not safe.
4.6. Territories with One Empty Point
A territory that has only one empty point will certainly be lost if its surrounding stones are
themselves surrounded.
4.7. Territories with Two Empty Points
A territory with two empty points (which will be side by side) is certainly lost if its surrounding
stones are themselves surrounded. For example, the Black stones and territory are lost in the lower
center (figure 9).
4.8. Territories with Three Empty Points
If a territory has three empty points in a row or in an L shape (as along the upper side of
figure 9), the next play by either White or Black should be in the middle point to make or prevent
two eyes.
Figure 9
Black White
134. l16
135. k18 136. m17
137. l18 138. m18
139. l19 140. k16
141. k4 142. p2
143. l3 144. l2
145. k2 146. o1
147. h2 148. g2
149. h3 150. k1

151. i2 152. n1
153. s2 154. m1
155. n10 156. d7
157. l9 158. d9
159. i11 160. b7
161. l13 162. l14
163. i10 164. l8
165. k9 166. m9
167. m10 168. k13
169. k12 170. o11

171. n11 172. n12

173. m12 174. b9
175. r11 176. a7
177. p9 178. a9
179. q10 180. h10
181. s10 182. h11
183. s9 184. i12
185. r13 186. n9
187. g15 188. o10
189. h14 190. m13
4.9. Territories with Four Empty Points
If a territory has four empty points in a row (as on the left side of figure 9), it is safe. After the
opponent plays into it, two eyes can still be made.
If a territory has four empty points in an L shape, it is a safe territory (for the same reason),
unless it is in the corner. In this case (shown in the lower right corner), the next play by Black or
White should be in the middle of the three points in a row to ensure or block two eyes.
If the territory has four empty points in a T shape (as for White on the lower side), the next play
by Black or White should be in the middle point to make or prevent two eyes.
If the territory has four empty points in a square shape, there is no defense and the territory is
lost if its surrounding stones are themselves surrounded.
4.10. Territories with Five Empty Points
If a territory has five empty points, it is a safe territory, except in two patterns:
One is when the five points make a T or a cross; the next play is in the crossover point to make
or prevent two eyes. Black or White should play at z of White's T territory in the lower right corner
(figure 9).
The other is when the five points make a square plus one extra point; the next play is in the
corner of the square adjacent to the extra point to make or prevent two eyes. White or Black should
play at y in the upper right corner.
4.11. Territories with Six Empty Points
If a territory has six empty points, it is a safe territory, except when the points make the shape
of a house (shown in the center of figure 9 - the star is the roof and the five other points make a
square with a center). Black or White should play at x, the central point, to make or prevent two
eyes.
4.12. Neutral Territory
A group of empty points that is surrounded by stones of different colors is not a territory. Such
points can only be made into a territory by capturing the other color stones. Neutral territory is
shown on the lower left side (figure 10). No moves should be made into neutral territory unless it
has more than ten empty points or captures are possible.
4.13. Your Territory
Do not play into your territory, unless it is necessary to protect your eyes or stones. If you must
play there, play to make eyes in one or two moves.
4.14. Small Opposing Territory
Enter opposing territory with six or less empty points only if the shape of the territory is
favorable, as discussed in the previous sections. You can only gain points there if you can prevent
eye formation.
4.15. Large Opposing Territory
If the territory is large enough (ten points or more) to give you a chance for formation of two
eyes, play two, three, or four points in from the opponent's line of stones in the middle of the
territory. The first play into a territory should be on a point where eyes can be started. The play
should not be adjacent to an opposing stone. An example is White's territory on the left side
(figure 10).
After the good points for eye formation inside the territory are occupied, attack on the outside
edge of the stones surrounding the territory. A good play is on a point diagonal to one of the points
of the territory, threatening to enter the territory and capture stones. Black has several stones
threatening to enter White's territory at the left of the center.
After surrounding the stones on the outside, play again inside the territory to force the opponent
to capture you and so fill up the territory, leaving it easier for you to capture later.
Figure 10
 Black White
191. t3 192. g12
193. r19 194. g14
195. t18 196. g13
197. g8 198. g9
199. f8 200. f9
201. h12 202. f15
203. c12 204. e15
205. e10 206. r6

4.16. Open Space

Usually you should play only into regions that are not surrounded, since the most territory may
be gained there. Play by extending out from your existing stones so that only one to three more
stones are needed to surround a territory. The right side illustrates this situation for Black
(figure 11).
Surround the territory with stones placed to require only one or two more stones to make eyes,
as shown in the lower right corner and right side.
Do not completely surround the territory until necessary under threat from the opponent. It is
better to try to gain more territory elsewhere than to secure the territory.
4.17. Connecting Groups and Territories
Groups and territories should be connected by eyes, walls, and corners, as White has done all
over the lower side and center (figure 11) to make large, long groups and two eyes.
Figure 11
 Black White
207. n16 208. f14
209. o15 210. g11
211. m16 212. e9
213. o14 214. i6
215. b17 *1 216. e7
217. q12 218. q11
219. s13 220. p11
221. p10 222. t8
223. g16

4.18. Securing Territory

After all territory has been staked out around the board, your territory should be made secure.
Territory along a side is not secure if the adversary has a stone on a diagonal next to the territory, as
Black does on the left center (figure 11). Black can cut into the territory and perhaps capture some
stones. White should try to block or surround those entry points, as shown on the left center.
The best way to surround a territory is with walls and corners of stones, rather than with stones
placed diagonally. A wall makes a group of stones longer and more spread out, and so protects it.
White at the lower center is very safe and is surrounding territory well. Corners protect territory, by
preventing entry. There are many illustrations of the value of corners all over the board.
4.19. Unsafe Territory
Your territories will be lost if there are two diagonal routes into them. You must play to allow
only one opposing stone on a diagonal into your territory.
If there are two opposing stones diagonal to points in your territory, you must attack them. If
they cannot be captured, you should leave this territory alone and attack in another part of the
board. You hope to bring the play back to that territory so they may be captured later. Black has
lost the territory in the center (figure 11) in this way, but may save the right side territory since it is
along a side. Territory along a side is safer since it is possible to trap intruding stones against the
side.
Try to place two stones at diagonals into opposing territory, as White has on the right side of
the board. White was able to block the formation of walls and corners by these corner stones. White
cut the line of the opposing stones and threatened to capture them. However, White's stones are in
danger. White will try to connect the stones to protect them and make walls and safe points.
Playing on the diagonals requires careful calculation of how many stones will be needed to
capture. The tactics of the struggle for territory are more important than those needed for capturing,
because there are more variations in patterns.
5. Forbidden Plays
Some plays in special situations are illegal.
5.1. Automatic Capture
It is forbidden to play a stone that will be automatically captured without any play by the
opponent. For example, it is illegal for White to play into one of the eyes of Black in the lower left
corner (figure 12).
Even if this play were allowed, it would still never be done, since it never can give any
advantage. It is forbidden to prevent losing through error.
Figure 12
 Black White
224. c17

5.2. Recapturing a Stone Immediately After It Captures a Single Stone

It is forbidden to immediately recapture a single stone that has just been used to capture one
(and only one) of your stones, if this recapture results in the same pattern of stones as before the
first capture. Such a situation is shown in the upper left corner (examine Figures 11 and 12). It is
allowable to recapture that stone on any later move, but probably the other player will have
protected the stone by then.
When your opponent makes such a first capture, you should make a threat to capture at another
place. He or she may answer that threat; allowing you to recapture.
It is a good idea to have many of these threats ready to use all over the board, since this
situation of "ko" occurs many times in a game. Only set up these situations if you have more threats
available than the opponent does. You set up these situations to make a threat when threatened
elsewhere, to invade territory, or to force the opponent to use up his or her threats.
In an area of the board that has three or more such repeatable situations, both players may
repeat the same pattern for fear of losing the game. If this occurs, the game is declared cancelled
(not won, lost, or drawn).
5.3. Play in Special Situations
There are specific patterns of stones in GO for which certain plays are best. These specific
patterns require a specific play to capture or avoid capture, which may not be the obvious one of
attacking or defending on a point adjacent to a group of stones.
Figure 13
 Black White
225. f10 226. n15
227. g10 228. d11
229. l11 230. d10
231. i19 232. d12
233. a19 234. b12
235. d17 *1 236. q15
237. t9 238. q14
239. r14 240. t2
241. m14 242. s1
243. r9 244. o8
245. i1 246. l1
247. f1 248. n2
249. t1 *1 250. end of game

5.4. The Ladder

The "ladder" is shown above the left-most y on the left side (figure 13). White can capture the
one-stone Black group in one more move, but White should not do it.
If Black moves to enlarge the group by playing at z, White can play at y and cause atari again.
If Black then tries to enlarge the group again, White can always play to capture or make atari,
finally driving Black to the edge of the board and capture of a larger group. Of course, there must
be no Black stones along the path to the edge or else Black can escape capture. White should
capture Black only if a Black stone threatens the ladder pattern.
Black should not play at z, but should play on a point along the path to the edge of the board,
attack the adjacent White stones, or play an attacking move elsewhere.
5.5. The Crane's Nest
The "crane's nest" is shown to the right of the ladder (figure 13). Even though it looks like
Black might be able to escape capture, Black is lost here and should not play at x or v. If Black
plays at v, White plays at u. If Black plays at x, White plays at w.
White should not play at x or v either, since Black can always be surrounded.
5.6. Geta
The "geta" pattern is shown in the upper right center around the t (figure 13). Black is lost if
White plays at t. If it is Black's turn, Black must play at t to escape capture.
5.7. Similar Patterns
The above three patterns represent all the types of special GO patterns. Specific situations will
vary in the placement of the extraneous stones.
You should evaluate each stone pattern to determine if it fits one of the examples above.
You should also keep in mind that often an indirect play, on a point next to a point adjacent to a
group or territory, can result in greater advantage than a direct attack.
6. End of Game
A game only ends when one player resigns, or when both players pass their turns and agree the
game is finished.
You should then follow the strict procedure given below to count the captured stones and
surrounded territory.
6.1. Possible Captures
First, resolve all points where captures can still be made, by protecting the stones from capture
or finalizing a capture. Usually, there will be none of these situations since the players will not pass
their turns when they have a chance to capture or protect stones from capture. However, GO is
complex and situations may only be discovered when the scoring analysis starts. Also, the
resolution of one group or pattern during the scoring may affect a second group and so require its
capture or protection.
First, resolve all ko patterns (described above), so that no more captures are possible by
protecting the stones from further capture. This usually requires more plays, so the game continues
until these situations are finalized.
Next, resolve all other uncertain capture situations. This usually requires more plays, so the
game continues until these situations are finalized.
The players may agree not to complete the capture situations where the outcome is certain, but
if the players cannot agree on a resolution, the game continues until these situations are finalized.
In Figure 13, the game continues as Black plays on the x and White on the y. The x in the upper
left corner resolves a ko.
However, if a stone played to capture or to protect will disturb a deadlocked situation (in which
neither player can move without causing loss of stones), fill the territory at the empty points with
stones of the needed color, so that no captures are made and the territory is kept neutral.
No points are actually added or subtracted during any of the actions of this section.
6.2. Corner Pattern
Second, check the board for the special corner pattern shown (figure 14).

Figure 14
If this pattern is found, remove the seven central stones (the Black stones in the above example)
and give them to the opposing player (White in this example).
This pattern has not occurred in the sample game.
No points are actually added or subtracted during any of the actions of this section.
6.3. Unsecured Territories
Third, check all territories to be sure they are safe and secure.
A territory may look secure but not be so. It may have only one eye, for instance. Such a
territory is shown on the left center (figure 15). In this case, the spaces of the territory do not count.
Fill the points with stones of the needed color, so that neither player has any territory there and no
captures occur.
There may also be a deadlock in a territory, where any move by either player would lead to a
loss for that player. In this case, the spaces do not count as territory. Fill the points with stones of
the needed color, so that neither player has any territory there and no captures occur.
No points are actually added or subtracted during any of the actions of this section.
Figure 15
6.4. Neutral Territories
Fourth, use stones of the needed color to fill all neutral territory, so that no captures are made
and no territory is created. Five points of neutral territory are marked by z's on the left center
(figure 15).
Players are also allowed to rearrange their stones so their stones are safe and no changes in
territory occur.
No points are actually added or subtracted during any of the actions of this section.
Figure 16
6.5. Remove Black's Stones from White Territories
Fifth, remove Black stones in White's territory and give them to White as captured stones.
Remove all Black stones in White's territory that both players have agreed cannot escape being
captured. Comparing figures 15 and 16 shows the Black stones removed.
Black stones inside White territory that are found to be part of a threat to attack White (together
with Black stones outside the surrounded territory) must actually be captured by using White
stones. If this capturing possibility was overlooked in the first scoring step, the scoring procedure
returns to the first step so that the captures can be made.
No points are actually added or subtracted during any of the actions of this section.
6.6. Remove White's Stones from Black Territories
Sixth, remove White stones in Black's territory and give them to Black as captured stones.
Remove all White stones inside Black's territory that both players have agreed cannot escape being
captured. Comparing figures 15 and 16 shows the White stones removed.
White stones inside Black territory that are found to be part of a threat to attack Black (together
with White stones outside the surrounded territory) must actually be captured by using Black
stones. If this capturing possibility was overlooked in the first scoring step, the scoring procedure
returns to the first step so the captures can be made.
No points are actually added or subtracted during any of the actions of this section.
Figure 17
6.7. Counting White's Territory
Seventh, fill the White territory with White stones. Territory consists only of unoccupied points,
so points occupied by White stones are not counted. (There are no Black stones in White territory
after the fifth step.) The y's of figure 17 show the points to be filled by White.
The number of White stones used is added to White's score.
6.8. Counting Black's Territory
Eighth, fill the Black territory with Black stones. Territory consists only of unoccupied points,
so points occupied by Black stones are not counted. (There are no White stones in Black territory
after the sixth step.) The x's of figure 17 show the points to be filled by Black.
The number of Black stones used is added to Black's score.
6.9. Counting Black's Captured Stones
Ninth, subtract the number of captured Black stones from Black's score.
6.10. Counting White's Captured Stones
Tenth, subtract the number of captured White stones from White's score.
7. Scoring
The player with the higher score is the winner.
Sometimes, White is given 4.5 or 5.5 extra points to offset Black's advantage in starting first.
This also ensures there are no ties. The decision whether to use these extra points should be made
before the game begins.
7.1. Analysis of Scoring
There should be a difference in score of less than 20 points. If the difference is more, the
handicap should be changed. Handicap stones are worth about 10 points each for Black.
Also, there should be less than 20 captures each in a well-played game.
8. Strategy Summary

8.1. Choosing the Best Move

Memorize and understand the best move to make in each of the many local patterns.
Understand the purpose of the series of moves made to reach or escape from a pattern. Know the
influences of the stones in the patterns.
Choose the move that is both offensive and defensive over a purely offensive or defensive one.
Each series of moves should have both an offensive and defensive purpose.
In general, play first in the corners, then on the sides, then in the center, to gain the most
territory.
Make walls and corners if you can.
8.2. Filling Open Areas
Memorize and understand the best sequence of moves for each type of open area: corner,
middle of side, side between middle and corner, center of board, between middle of side and center,
between corner and center.
Try to place your first stone at the position with maximum influence, the next at the next largest
influence, and so on.
Stones nearer the middle have more influence.
Do not place your stone adjacent to any of your own strong stones. Do not overlap the
influences of your stones.
Do not place your stone adjacent to any of opponent's strong stones. Do not overlap the
influences of opponent's strong stones.
Stones on the third line can generally hold side territory, but not center territory.
Stones on the fourth line can generally hold center territory, but not side territory.
8.3. Building Safe Groups of Stones
Do not try for a long or large group of stones at first.
Make small groups of stones with an eye. They should have a path to the center of the board.
Make small groups of stones safe by adding an eye, linking to another group of stones with an
eye by a straight line connection, or extending a straight line toward the center of the board.
Try to link your groups of stones with only one straight-line connection. Plan the connection to
avoid connecting more than once.
Connections always run along a side or toward the center. A side connection should not be
along the edge or one row in from the edge. If a connection is more than six rows from the side, it
is a center connection. A center connection wall should not allow the opponent to wall off more
territory than you.
8.4. Playing in a Corner
In a corner, you need a stone on the third line and one on the fourth line, separated by one or
two spaces (as in all openings).
In a corner, you want to have a safe stone or point where the third lines cross (the 3-3 point).
8.5. Extending
To extend toward the center, follow a straight line but skip a point between stones. If the
opponent tries to play in that point, you can threaten that stone on its side and then connect with a C
shape.
To extend along the side, start with the farthest stone and follow a straight line, but skip a point
between stones. Any play to that point allows you to make a C-shaped connection, as before.
To extend the tip of a group, start with the stone at the tip and follow a straight line, but skip a
point between stones. Any play to that point allows you to make a C-shaped connection, as before.
To extend from a wall (or the wide part of a group), place a stone at a distance one point wider
than wall width, perpendicular to the middle of the wall. The number of empty points is the same as
the width of the wall.
8.6. Attacking and Defending Groups of Stones
Cut into a group only on the side of the group that has no chance to make eyes.
Attack opponent's weakest groups first.
Fortify your weakest group first.
Do not attack strong groups; instead, fortify your weakest group.
Only sacrifice a stone if it is the best offensive AND defensive move.
8.7. Playing the Game
Now try playing the sample game.
Then play a game with yourself, following the rules and principles given above.
Then find an opponent more skillful than you.
As you play, you will learn many more examples of good play, and with this experience you
will master the game of GO.