The 1930'S

fashion, ,
sourcebooks
John Peacock
with 281 illustrations

fashion sourcebooks
The 1930s
John Peacock
Fashion Sourcebooks is a series

of beautifully illustrated
paperbacks presenting the
renowned costume drawings of
John Peacock. The series charts
the development of women’s
and men’s clothing from 1900
onwards, with a volume devoted
to the fashions of each decade.
In the 1930s, the boyish look of the

previous decade gave way to a more
feminine silhouette, which defined the
waist, accentuated the shoulders and
narrowed the hips. The year-by-year
format allows these changes to be shown
in fascinating detail. Day Wear, Evening
Wear, Sports and Leisure Wear,
Accessories, Underwear and Wedding
Wear are featured, and complete
descriptions of each garment accompany
the drawings, itemizing color, cut,
i lecklines, lapels, sleeves, pockets,
fastenings, buttons and belts. The
reference section includes a chart
summarizing at a glance the evolution of
fashion and garment shapes, as well as
biographies of outstanding 1930s
designers and a bibliography.
John Peacock’s Fashion Sourcebooks
are destined to become an indispensable
part of the library of any fashion enthusiast,
historian or collector, and are sure to
provide inspiration to any designer or
student working in the performing arts.
With 281 duotone illustrations

fashion, ,
sourcebooks
The 1930s
tfwsSKff
John Peacock
Fashion Sourcebooks The 1930s
With 281 illustrations
Thames and Hudson

OH BR
GT596
.P433
1997x
For Janet Powell
Any copy of this book issued by

the publisher as a paperback is
sold subject to the condition that
it shall not by way of trade or
otherwise be lent, resold, hired
out or otherwise circulated
without the publisher’s prior
consent in any form of binding
or cover other than that in which
it is published and without a
similar condition including these
words being imposed on a
subsequent purchaser.
© 1997 Thames and Hudson Ltd,

London
/
First published in paperback in the
United States of America in 1997
by Thames and Hudson Inc.
500 Fifth Avenue
New York, New York 10110
Library of Congress Catalog Card

Number 97-60235
ISBN 0-500-27973-X
All rights reserved. No part of this

publication may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopy, recording
or any other information storage
and retrieval system, without
prior permission in writing
from the publisher.
Printed and bound in Slovenia

Contents
Introduction 7
The Plates
1930 9
1931 13
1932 17
1933 21
1934 25
1935 29
1936 33
1937 37
1938 41
1939 45
Descriptions 49
Chart of the Development of 1930s Fashion 60

Biographies of Designers 62
Sources for 1930s Fashion 64
Acknowledgments 64
Introduction
The holiday mood of the hectic and emancipated

1920s, with its dramatic rejection of womanly
curves and feminine flounces, faded with the
dawn of the 1930s, a decade plagued by
worldwide economic depression.
The fashionable clothes of the previous period,
which had been drawn with bold outlines, no
waist, abbreviated hemlines and a denial of
feminine curves, gave way to a longer, leaner and
more figure-hugging silhouette which defined the
waist, accentuated the shoulders and narrowed
the hips. The fashionable thirties woman emerged
mature, understated, cautious and, above all,
sophisticated. Her wardrobe contained specialist
outfits for every occasion: day, afternoon, sport,
spectator sport, informal evening, formal evening,
dinner, theatre and more.
Until the middle of the decade, women’s
fashion moved comparatively slowly. By 1935
the look which had emerged was epitomized by
the suit, either crisply tailored or more softly
structured. A sleek, fitted jacket, with square,
padded shoulders and a tiny waist in its proper
place, was teamed with a skirt or dress in
matching fabric. This outfit was considered the
ultimate in elegance and chic.
The introduction of washable, easy-care luxury
fabrics, such as silk, crepe-de-chine and satin,
revolutionized garments of all kinds, from
nightdresses to underwear to day dresses and
blouses. In addition, the development of man¬
made fabrics, such as rayon, viscose rayon
and tricot, and the improved methods of
manufacturing and mass-production techniques
meant that well-made and well-cut clothes
became available to a wider range of women.
From 1930 evening dresses were a fashion
unto themselves. Long or ankle-length, often with
a short train, they were moulded onto the body
7
like wet cloth by means of bias-cutting. As much ten pages of schematic drawings accompanied
flesh as possible was revealed: for example, by detailed notes about each example, giving
halter necklines left the shoulders and most of particulars of colour, fabric, cut and trimming as
the back exposed. As the decade progressed, well as other useful information. Then follow two
evening dresses became increasingly more pages of drawings which illustrate the decade ‘at
extravagant and varied in style, ranging from a glance’ and which demonstrate the evolution of
sleek and figure-hugging crepes and silk the period and its main development trends.
satins, to ruffled diaphanous silk-organdie Biographies of the most important fashion
dresses with puffed sleeves, to multi-layered designers of the decade are also included as well
embroidered net crinolines with tightly fitted, as a list of further reading suggestions into the
boned, strapless bodices. styles of this period.
Fur - both of the expensive and the cheap
varieties - was worn extensively throughout the
1930s in the form of coats, capes, stoles, wraps,
accessories and trimmings. The most popular
furs were sable, mink, chinchilla, Persian lamb
and silver fox, all worn both for day and evening.
As far as men’s fashions were concerned,
developments in style, colour and cut were
extremely slow and, in consequence, they require
fewer illustrations. The minor differences which
do occur in the basic trends have been shown,
on average, with one example for each page.
In the main, the fashions I have illustrated are
such as would have been worn by the middle or
upper-middle classes and by people who, while
not being ‘dedicated followers of fashion’, would
have had a keen interest in the latest styles.
The sources from which I have drawn - chiefly
from Great Britain, North America and France -
include contemporary magazines, journals and
catalogues, museum collections, original
photographs, and my own costume collection.
This sourcebook is divided into ten sections,
each of which includes four subdivisions covering
Day Wear, Evening Wear (alternately, on two
occasions, Wedding Wear), Sports and Leisure
Wear and a section on either Underwear or
Accessories. Following the main illustrations are
8 Introduction
Day Wear 1930
9
1930 Evening Wear
10
Sports and Leisure Wear 1930
11
1930 Underwear and Negligee
12
Day Wear 1931
13
1931 Wedding Wear
14
15
1931 Accessories
,A tB-j
16
Day Wear 1932
17
1932 Evening Wear
18
19
20
Day Wear 1933
21
1933 Evening Wear
22
23
1933 Accessories
24
Day Wear 1934
DfUtUBi
25
1934 Evening Wear
26
27
28
Day Wear 1935
29
1935 Evening Wear
30
31
1935 Blouses and Accessories
ric
rv .
J / / •/
1 / /
32
Day Wear 1936
33
1936 Evening Wear
34
35
36
Day Wear 1937
U-' - '!
**■■■& 3
37
1937 Wedding Wear
38
39
1937 Footwear
40
Day Wear 1938
41
1938 Evening Wear
42
43
44
Day Wear 1939
45
1939 Evening Wear
46
47
1939 Accessories
48
1930 Day Wear Evening Wear Sports and Leisure Wear Underwear and Negligee
1 Fine cream silk dress spotted in 1 Leaf-brown silk-chiffon dinner 1 Tennis. Sleeveless semi-fitted 1 Pale-peach artificial-silk
pale orange, low round neckline, dress, low boat-shaped neckline, white cotton blouse, V-shaped chemise top, edged with darker
brown satin roil collar, ends tied semi-fitted sleeveless bodice, neckline, mock collar and revers peach binding and applique
into bow, matching cuffs of long brown velvet ribbon belt with trimmed with navy-blue ribbon, leaves, matching ribbon shoulder
fitted inset sleeves and narrow jeweled buckle, bias-cut skirt, matching long knotted tie. straps. Peach brocade corset,
buckled belt, semi-fitted bodice, deep asymmetric hip yoke, two Flared white linen skirt, narrow deep boned and stitched
top-stitched bolero effect, tiers of circular frills following line waistband, wide unpressed box- waistband, ribbed elastic side
repeated in hip-level seaming of through to hem, brown crepe-de- pleats either side centre front, inserts over hips, boned side-
bias-cut mid-calf-length skirt. chine underslip, semi-fitted top-stitched to above knee-levei. front control darts, centre-front
Brown leather shoes, bow trim, bodice, narrow shoulder straps, White silk stockings. White hook-and-bar fastening to mid¬
pointed toes, high heels. 2 Three- bias-cut skirt. Brown satin shoes, leather bar-strap shoes. hip, laced to hem, four adjustable
piece light-brown wool suit: pointed toes, high heels. 2 Burnt- 2 Skating. Fawn wool-stockinette suspenders. Flesh-coloured silk
single-breasted jacket, two- orange velvet-embossed single-breasted jacket, fastening stockings. 2 Yellow artificial-silk
button fastening, flap pockets; georgette evening dress, low from hip-level'to neck with self- chemise top, edged and trimmed
single-breasted collarless scooped neckline, short circular- fabric-covered buttons, long with pale green rouleau, matching
waistcoat; straight-cut trousers cut sleeves, bias-cut skirt to fitted inset sleeves, piped shoulder straps; knickers in
with turn-ups. White cotton knee-level, scalloped seam, pockets above self-fabric matching fabric and trim, shaped
collar-attached shirt. Brown and orange silk fishtail circular hem, buttoned belt. Canary-yellow hip yoke, side-button fastening,
black spotted silk tie. Light-brown matching belt with jeweled wool-stockinette scarf, blanket- long legs, narrow cuffs, inside leg
trilby. Brown lace-up shoes. buckle, orange chiffon scarf. Silk stitched edges; matching button fastening. 3 Black silk-
3 Brown and beige wool-tweed shoes, bead trim, pointed toes. gauntlet gloves and brimless hat. georgette slip, low brassiere top
two-piece suit: single-breasted 3 Three-piece black wool evening Dark-green wool-stockinette trimmed with fine black lace,
knee-length coat, long roll collar, suit: jacket with linked-button bias-cut skirt to below knee-level. matching hem and hems of
wide fur trim at neck, short fastening, wide lapels faced with Long beige leather laced skating knicker legs, black satin ribbon
shoulder cape, long inset sleeves satin, piped pockets; low-cut boots and blades. 3 Country shoulder straps. 4 Green, cream
trimmed with brown velvet L- single-breasted waistcoat; wear. Mottled brown, beige and and yellow striped cotton
shaped cuffs, button detail, line straight-cut trousers, satin ribbon green wool-jersey three-piece pyjamas: single-breasted jacket,
repeated as side panels in skirts trim on outside seams, no turn¬ suit: long sweater, V-shaped four-button fastening to under
and incorporates pockets; ups. White shirt worn with wing neckline and mock buttoned shirt collar, single breast patch
straight skirt. Fitted brown velvet collar and black satin bow-tie. strap opening to waist-level pocket, long inset sleeves,
brimless hat, gathered and Black patent-leather shoes. edged with dark green crepe- stitched cuffs; straight-cut
buttoned on one side. Brown 4 Black silk-chiffon evening de-chine, matching hip-level trousers. Black leather step-in
gloves. Brown leather shoes, dress, low V-shaped neckline, pockets, trim on sleeves, slippers. 5 Pink cotton corselette,
elasticated front panels. 4 Dark- matching line of inserted lace pockets, edges of edge-to-edge wide shaped boned waistband
red wool-crepe dress, semi-fitted panel in sleeveless, semi-fitted jacket, scarf and band on edge and fitted upper bodice covered
bodice, low neckline, roll collar bodice and in side panels of bias- of beret; flared skirt, top-stitched in pink lace, satin ribbon shoulder
held in place by self-fabric strap cut ankle-length skirt, large black centre-front inverted box-pleat. straps, lightly boned front panels,
buttoned onto short shoulder velvet roses on one shoulder, Two-tone lace-up leather shoes. top-stitched seams, elasticated
cape and at waist above bow- dress worn over black silk slip 4 Golf. Light-brown and tan side-hip panels, four adjustable
trimmed belt, trim repeated on of same shape. Black velvet checked wool three-piece suit: suspenders, side hook-and-bar
frilled cuffs of long fitted inset clutch purse. Black silk shoes. single-breasted jacket, three- fastening. Flesh-coloured silk
sleeves, bias-cut skirt, curved 5 Multicoloured net evening button fastening, flap pockets; stockings. 6 Sunrise-pink
side panel seams with circular- dress, wide boat-shaped collarless single-breasted crepe-de-chine nightdress
cut inset short floating panels on neckline, narrow cape collar with waistcoat; knee-length plus- patterned with cream and pale-
side hips. Black leather shoes. frilled edge matching two rows of fours. Collar-attached shirt. green flowers, sleeveless semi-
5 Mid-blue, dark-blue and grey frills above hem of bias-cut skirt, Striped wool tie. Long fawn wool fitted bodice, low V-shaped
flecked wool-jersey dress, semi-fitted sleeveless bodice, socks. Brown leather lace-up neckline, two bands of crossed
asymmetric neckline trimmed narrow self-fabric belt, jeweled brogues. 5 Golf. Cream machine- ecru lace to give bolero effect,
with navy-blue top-stitched satin buckle, scalloped hip-level yoke knitted wool sweater, V-shaped ankle-length bias-cut skirt,
matching threaded tie detail seam. Small silver clutch purse; neckline edged in dark green, self-fabric tie-belt. Pale-pink
under point of neckline, trim matching shoes, pointed toes, matching inset bands, wide velvet mules, scalloped edges,
above wrists of inset sleeves, high heels. centre-front buttoned band, cuffs pointed toes, medium heels.
narrow belt and covered buckle, of inset sleeves and hem. Dark-
asymmetric hip yoke, flared skirt, green accordion-pleated wool
pleated side panel. Fitted skirt. Dark-green wool shirt.
brimless hat, scalloped edges, Tan wool tie. Dark-green wool
matching dress fabric. Navy-blue brimiess hat, tan trim. Tan leather
leather shoes, buckle trim. gloves; matching shoes.
Descriptions | 49
1931 Day Wear Wedding Wear Sports and Leisure Wear Accessories
1 Navy-blue wool-georgette 1 Off-white satin wedding dress, 1 Swimming. Dark-blue knitted- 1 Dark-brown leather clutch bag,
dress patterned with large dark- wide scooped neckline edged cotton sleeveless vest, low orange plastic catch, V-shaped
pink flowers, semi-fitted bodice, with pearls, matching hems of scooped neckline, open sides, top-stitched tab. 2 Pale-grey
V-shaped neckline formed by fitted full-length inset sleeves, bands of green and red stripes leather clutch bag, clasp
asymmetric wrapover front, semi-fitted bodice, self-fabric across chest. Fitted green fastening. 3 Grey moleskin
edged with circular frill, large bow belt, bow trim, long bias-cut skirt cotton-jersey shorts, self-fabric elbow-length shoulder cape
trim on one side above bust, gathered from low hip yoke and belt threaded through loops on combined with sleeveless
matching trim above wrists on knee-level seams, short back waistband, metal clip buckle. waistcoat, shawl collar, single¬
fitted inset sleeves, self-fabric train. Mid-calf-length silk-tulle veil 2 Beach wear. Sleeveless white button fastening. Mustard-yellow
belt, bias-cut mid-calf-length gathered from self-fabric cap cotton blouse, armholes bound felt beret, feather trim. Pale-grey
skirt, low asymmetric hip yoke, edged with pearls and trimmed in red, matching low V-shaped suede gauntlet gloves, leather
three tiers of circular frills. Semi¬ with satin roses over each ear. neckline, scalloped edge of front trim. 4 Navy-blue and cream two-
transparent top-stitched pink silk 2 Pale-green satin bridesmaid’s opening and covered buttons. tone leather shoes, high heels,
hat. Navy-blue leather clutch bag; dress, sleeveless semi-fitted Red linen trousers, fitted over almond toes. 5 Cream canvas
matching shoes. 2 Powder-blue bodice, decorative curved seam hips, wide legs, scalloped hems. shoes, tan leather toecaps,
wool-crepe two-piece: edge-to- from under arm to centre front, Brimless white straw hat, wide matching high heels, laced bar
edge jacket, scalloped hem, repeated as hip yoke in full-length red ribbon band. 3 Beach wear. straps and trim. 6 Silver fox-fur
matching long flared inset bias-cut skirt, self-fabric pleated Yellow and green spotted linen stole. Primrose-yellow felt hat,
sleeves; dress with semi-fitted belt, V-shaped neckline, attached halter-neck blouse. Yellow linen uneven brim, shallow crown,
bodice, low scooped neckline, self-fabric bias-cut knee-length trousers, fitted over hips, narrow self-fabric band and bow
white cotton pique wrapover infill, cape. Tiara of looped ribbon and decorative buttoned waistband, trim. Yellow leather gloves,
scalloped edges, self-fabric belt wax flowers. 3 Morning suit: side fastening, wide legs flared scalloped frill, bow trim. 7 Long
and covered oval buckle, two-tier single-breasted dark-grey wool at hem, two small hip-level sable stole. Light-brown brimless
skirt, scalloped hems. Natural tailcoat, single-button fastening, triangular-shaped patch pockets beret, cream satin-covered
straw hat, pale-blue ribbon band, double-breasted lapels; single- in fabric to match blouse. Yellow button, leaf and rouleau loop trim.
peach suede flowers. Navy-blue breasted pale-grey wool varnished-straw hat, small crown, 8 Brown and cream checked
leather clutch bag; matching collarless waistcoat; black and yellow and green spotted scarf, wool-tweed peaked cap.
shoes. Fox-fur stole. 3 Fitted grey striped trousers, no turn¬ outsize brim. 4 Bathing. Navy- 9 Brown leather brogues,
natural-sable hip-length jacket, ups. Light grey top hat. Black blue, pale-blue and fawn flecked perforated decoration. 10 Brown
single fur-covered button-and- shoes worn with grey spats. wool-jersey costume, armholes and white two-tone leather
loop fastening, high shawl collar, 4 Oyster crepe-de-chine two- and low scooped neckline bound shoes. 11 Grey felt trilby, tall
inset sleeves eased into deep piece wedding outfit: collarless in navy-blue to match buckled crown, deep dark-grey
cuffs, pelts used vertically, edge-to-edge bolero jacket, inset belt and inset band on outside petersham ribbon band and bow
horizontally and diagonally. sleeves, flared cuffs from diagonal seam of fitted legs. Pale-blue trim, wide brim. 12 Lilac felt hat,
Cream wool skirt, box-pleats and seam below elbows; sleeveless rubber bathing cap edged in asymmetric top-stitched brim,
inverted box-pleats. Tan suede dress, semi-fitted bodice, low navy-blue, matching buckled matching self-fabric bow trim.
beret. Tan leather shoes. 4 Navy- neckline, self-fabric belt, brooch chinstrap. 5 Beach wear. White Grey squirrel scarf, uneven ends
blue and white wool-crepe dress, trim, knee-length overskirt, bias- cotton-jersey vest, low scooped threaded through self bow trim.
low V-shaped neckline faced in cut flare from under shaped yoke neckline, self-binding, matching 13 Gold kid evening shoes,
white, matching pointed yoke, seam which matches details of armholes, inset red stripe across brocade fronts and covered
upper part and pointed cuffs of ankle-length underskirt. Tiara of chest. Red, white and blue heels. 14 Silver kid T-strap dance
semi-set-in sleeves, navy-blue silk and wax flowers, full-length striped cotton-canvas shorts, shoes, sandal fronts, open sides,
covered button detail, pointed silk-tulle veil. Oyster satin shoes, deep waistband, threaded self¬ high heels. 15 South American
scalloped panel above hem of high heels. 5 Turquoise-blue silk- fabric buckled belt, wide legs, skunk scarf. Close-fitting brimless
bias-cut skirt, semi-fitted bodice, chiffon bridesmaid’s dress, semi- fly fastening. feather hat in shades of green.
narrow belt, lower part of sleeves fitted bodice, low round neckline, 16 Black leather lace-up ankle-
and upper part of skirt all in navy- short circular cap sleeves, boots, cuffs, low heels. 17 Brown
blue. Navy-blue brimless wool turquoise and pink chiffon twisted velvet evening bag, shiny brown
beret. Navy-blue leather shoes. into belt with two-tone bow trim, plastic frame and clasp. 18 Gold
5 Double-breasted wrapover full-length bias-cut skirt, circular kid evening bag, gold metal
camel-hair overcoat, wide frills at knee, mid-calf and ankle- frame, clasp fastening and long
buckled belt, wide lapels, large level. Large pink straw hat, chain handle.
collar, inset sleeves, deep cuffs, shallow crown, narrow turquoise
hip-level welt pockets, top- ribbon band, pink rose trim, wide
stitched edges and detail. wired brim. Long pink gloves.
Straight-cut trousers, turn-ups. Turquoise satin shoes.
Brown trilby. Checked wool scarf.
Brown leather gloves and shoes.
50 j Descriptions
1 Wine-red heavy silk dress, 1 Black velvet dinner dress, wide 1 Golf. Hand-knitted bottle-green 1 Mid-calf-length mustard-yellow
V-shaped neckline meeting point V-shaped neckline, short cape wool crew-neck sweater and quilted-silk dressing gown,
of curved seam running from high sleeves, padded shoulderline, matching collarless cardigan, wrapover front, black satin roll
waistline at side, matching three fitted bodice with asymmetric single-breasted, three-button collar edges piped with yellow
seamed panels to hip-level, seaming and gathered shaping, fastening in deep waist rib, patch silk to match deep cuffs of inset
shaping gathers from shoulder draped and looped self-fabric pockets, inset sleeves with sleeves, tops of hip-level patch
and under bust, long sleeves, full side-hip detail, long pointed turned-back cuffs. Green, yellow pockets and tie-belt with tassel
to elbow-level, fitted to wrist, ends, full-length bias-cut flared and brown flecked wool-tweed ends. Pale-grey silk pyjamas.
button trim, bias-cut skirt. Dark- skirt. Black satin strap sandals. flared skirt, wide box-pleat Black leather step-in slippers.
red and cream leather shoes, 2 Sleeveless lavender silk-jersey buttoned on each side from waist 2 Pale-peach satin combination
toecaps, high heels. 2 Double- evening dress, low wide to hip-level, knife-pleat under camisole and knickers, brassiere
breasted rust coarse-wool-tweed V-shaped neckline, curved seam box-pleat from below button top, scalloped edges matching
coat, split outsized collar, left side under bust, gathered shaping, detail to hem. Brimless dark- hems of wide legs, button
threaded through right forming bodice gently ruched to hipline, yellow wool sectioned beret, stalk fastening in crotch, narrow self¬
bow-effect, held by polished- full-length bias-cut flared skirt, in centre. Brown and yellow fabric rouleau shoulder straps.
wood button, matching high asymmetric seam from low side leather shoes, low stacked heels. 3 Cream cotton-satin brassiere,
diagonal three-button fastening at hip to knee level on opposite 2 Holiday wear. Beige cotton fitted cups, adjustable fitting strap
bust level, diagonal elbow-level side, single unpressed knife-pleat dress patterned with brown from back fastening, narrow
button trim on long inset sleeves and knee-length waterfall on one circles, semi-fitted bodice, cowl adjustable shoulder straps.
and large round buckle on waist- side. Silver kid strap sandals. neckline, elbow-length circular- Lightweight white rubber girdle,
belt, side hip-level pockets. Small 3 Pink silk-organdie dinner dress, cut cape sleeves, draped high waist, light boning, double
bottle-green felt hat, pointed asymmetric neckline decorated cummerbund, bias-cut mid-calf- front panel, laced side opening,
crown, feather and brooch trim. with self-fabric loops and pointed length skirt, asymmetric seaming. four adjustable suspenders.
Bottle-green leather clutch bag, ends on one side, top-stitched Small brimless brown felt hat, Pleated pink artificial-silk slip.
gloves and shoes. 3 Cherry-red tucks between neckline and short cream petersham ribbon bow Dark-flesh silk stockings. 4 Pale-
ribbed-wool dress, semi-fitted puff sleeves, self-fabric belt, small trim. Beige leather shoes. green crepe-de-chine two-piece
underbodice, horizontal and round self-fabric-covered buckle, 3 Tennis. Machine-knitted white pyjama suit: short bolero jacket,
diagonal rib, double-breasted full-length bias-cut flared skirt, cotton shirt, short inset sleeves, scalloped edges bound in self¬
bolero-effect top, vertical rib zig-zag scalloped hip yoke. buttoned strap opening from fabric and trimmed with one tiny
matching skirt, large white 4 Heavy black satin-crepe chest-level to under collar. White self-fabric-covered button in each
cotton-pique lapels, long inset evening dress, wide white pique linen trousers, pleats under deep point, full-iength sleeves flared
sleeves, horizontal rib. matching shoulder straps, matching large waistband, self-fabric buckled from elbow, trimmed with dark-
narrow belt with round red plastic bow trim on side of shaped belt, side-hip pockets, wide legs, green chiffon and black lace;
buckle and curved hip yoke. neckline, bias-cut fitted bodice turn-ups. White leather lace-up combination bias-cut top and
Red lacquered-straw hat, small and full-length flared skirt, shoes. 4 Tennis. Sleeveless white wide flared trousers, low shaped
pointed crown, white ribbon trim. pointed seaming under bust, side linen dress, semi-fitted bodice, neckline and seam under bust
White cotton gauntlet gloves, red panel seams pointing to centre separate apron front, buttoned trimmed to match sleeve hems,
blanket-stitched edges. Fox-fur front from waist to knee level. at bust level, wide stiffened self¬ wide trousers fall from pointed hip
stole. Red and white leather 5 Formal dinner dress, beige lace fabric belt, asymmetric white seam and have scalloped hems
shoes, toecaps, high heels. semi-fitted bodice, low-cut back, plastic buckle, flared panelled to match bolero. Pale-green
4 Light-brown herringbone wide curved V-shaped neckline, mid-calf-length skirt. White velvet mules trimmed with
weatherproofed wool-tweed attached short shoulder cape, leather lace-up shoes, thick satin. 5 Pink satin and elastic
coat, double-breasted, two- waist-length at back, full-length medium-high heels. 5 Golf. combination brassiere and girdle,
button fastening, long pointed bias-cut flared skirt in heavy dull- Hand-knitted maroon wool fitted brassiere covered with pink
collar, shaped lapels, button trim, beige silk-crepe. collarless cardigan, single- lace, narrow adjustable shoulder
matching detail on long inset breasted, fastening with five straps, hip-length body,
sleeves and hip-level pockets. leather buttons, inset sleeves, elasticated side panels and
Light-brown knitted-wool beret, turned-back cuffs, patch pockets centre-front gusset, four
brooch trim. Light-brown leather above deep welt. Grey and cotton and elastic adjustable
gloves. Brown leather clutch bag; brown flecked wool trousers, suspenders. Short silk slip. Satin
matching shoes. 5 Double- side-hip pockets, wide legs, house shoes.
breasted navy-blue wool blazer, turn-ups. Light-grey wool collar-
wide lapels, flap pockets. Pale- attached shirt. Striped wool-
grey flannel trousers, medium¬ tweed tie. Two-tone leather
wide legs, turn-ups. White collar- lace-up shoes.
attached shirt. Red and blue
striped silk tie. Blue and cream
leather lace-up shoes.
Descriptions j 51
1933 Day Wear Evening Wear Sports and Leisure Wear Accessories
1 Lido-green wool dress, cape 1 Black wool two-piece evening 1 Country wear. Three-piece I Brown leather clutch bag,
collar, scalloped edge bound in suit: double-breasted jacket, brown and beige checked wool decorative stitching, clasp
black to match half-cuffs of long wide lapels faced with satin, suit: single-breasted jacket, two- fastening. 2 Brown leather lace-
tight sleeves, belt and covered matching covered buttons, hip- button fastening, wide lapels, flap up shoes, piped seams. 3 Red
buckle; semi-fitted bodice, panels level piped pockets, breast pockets; collarless single- and blue spotted silk beret.
extend into flared skirt, brass pocket, white silk handkerchief; breasted waistcoat; wide Matching scarf tied into large
button trim on diagonal hip wide trousers, no turn-ups. White trousers, turn-ups. White collar- bow. 4 Bottle-green leather
seams, matching collar and cuffs. silk shirt worn with wing collar. attached shirt. Spotted silk tie. clutch bag, tan and cream leather
Black felt hat, narrow upturned Black satin bow-tie. Black Beige trilby. Brown leather shoes. applied trim. 5 Brown leather
split brim, self-fabric trim. Black patent-leather shoes. 2 Pale-gold 2 Racing or garden-party wear. lace-up shoes, buckled
leather clutch bag; matching satin evening dress, low Pink lace two-piece: unlined overstrap, perforated trim.
shoes. 2 Brown and grey V-shaped neckline and shaped bolero, scalloped hem, matching 6 Brown and cream leather lace-
checked wool-tweed single- seam under bust to waist-level elbow-length circular-cut up shoes. 7 Dusty-pink felt beret,
breasted jacket, three-button form upper bodice and shoulder oversleeves, full-length tight top-stitched pink satin band, self¬
fastening, patch pockets, straps, bias-cut bodice and flared undersleeves, button fastening at fabric trim. 8 Blue and beige
inverted box-pleat decoration. skirt with asymmetric seaming. wrist, long narrow scarf collar; leather clutch bag, top-stitched
Fawn wool trousers, wide legs, 3 Fine turquoise silk-velvet dance sleeveless dress worn over full- trim. 9 Black leather envelope
turn-ups. Cream collar-attached dress, scooped neckline, three- length pink silk petticoat, clutch bag, top-stitched flap.
shirt. Brown wool tie. Fawn trilby. tier self-fabric frilled short cap V-shaped neckline, bodice 10 Fawn suede lace-up shoes,
Brown shoes. 3 Slate-blue wool- sleeves, matching frill inserted in ruched either side narrow central tan leather heels and trim.
crepe dress, diagonal fastening shaped seam under bust and panel, self-fabric belt, clasp II Fine pale-yellow straw hat,
to under burnt-orange top- four tiers of frills above hem of fastening, ankle-length bias-cut wide wired brim, shallow crown,
stitched satin collar which flared skirt, bias-cut bodice and flared skirt, scalloped seam at satin roses trim. 12 Bottle-green
matches buttons, belt, round skirt with shaped seams at hip hip-level. Pink straw hat, shallow and cream leather shoes, low
buckle and cuffs set at three- and knee level. 4 Yellow crepe- crown, wide brim. Cream kid thick heels. 13 Black satin dance
quarter-length on long inset de-chine sleeveless dance dress, shoes. 3 Golf. Three-piece light- shoes, ankle straps, cut-away
sleeves, gathered heads and low wide V-shaped neckline brown hand-knitted wool suit: sides and front detail, high
padded shoulders, diagonal edged with three rows of circular- edge-to-edge collarless jacket, slender heels. 14 Brown straw
seam from side waist to opposite cut frills of white silk-organdie, buttoned belt, shaped hem, dark- hat, tall crown, wide satin band
side hip, two inverted box-pleats black velvet ribbon bow with long brown cable-knit trim matching and bow trim, narrow top-
at matching angle on side front of ends on centre front, matching hems of long inset sleeves, stitched brim. 15 Green felt trilby,
flared skirt. Slate-blue brimless cummerbund, semi-fitted bodice, shaped hem and V-shaped black petersham band, feather
pillbox hat, blue feather trim. Tan panel seams, repeated in wide neckline of sleeveless sweater trim. 16 Lace-up tan leather
leather clutch bag, gloves and flared skirt, circular-cut godets and above hemline of flared skirt. shoes, perforated decoration,
shoes. Grey fox fur. 4 Yellow inserted at knee-level of each Dark-brown hand-knitted wool low thick heels. 17 Hand-knitted
crepe-de-chine dress patterned seam. 5 Dinner outfit: deep-gold hat, rolled brim, stalk trim. Brown slate-blue beret, bow trim.
in brown and dark-red, fitted satin collarless jacket, wrapover and cream leather lace-up shoes, Matching scarf, double-scalloped
bodice, round neckline, curved front, tied at back with long flat heels. 4 Country wear. Two- hem. 18 Powder-blue felt hat,
off-the-shoulder yoke edged with waterfall ends, short circular-cut piece beige and brown flecked shallow crown, self-colour
narrow frill, repeated in three tiers semi-inset sleeves, padded wool-tweed suit: single-breasted petersham band and bow trim,
under low curved hip seam, shoulders; black silk-velvet dress, jacket, two-button fastening, navy-blue and white striped
flared skirt, waist-level slotted belt bias-cut fitted bodice and full- wide lapels, long inset sleeves, ribbon band, curled brim.
tied at back, long tight sleeves. length flared skirt, panel seams padded shoulders, panel seams Buttoned fur collar. 19 Black
Small dark-red felt hat, narrow curving from side-waist to off- from shoulders to top of flap straw pillbox hat, black and
upturned brim, button trim. centre hip ending in wide flared pockets; flared panelled skirt. white ribbon bow trim on back.
Brown leather shoes. 5 Double- box-pleat. Cream silk blouse, top-stitched 20 Small grey felt hat with turned-
breasted wine wool coat, two- stand collar, matching strap up brim, grey ribbon trim. 21 Pink
button fastening at waist level, opening. Tan felt hat, petersham and blue felt gauntlet gloves.
inset bias-cut decoration trim. Tan leather gauntlet gloves 22 Brown leather gauntlet gloves,
between two vertical panel and clutch bag. Brown leather elasticated at wrist, mock side-
seams, matching decoration on lace-up shoes. 5 Tennis. White button fastening. 23 Hand-knitted
hip-level pockets, sleeve hems cotton dress, square neckline, cream cotton gauntlet gloves,
and above trim, inset sleeves with small collar, asymmetric button inset wristband, scalloped edges.
buttoned point extension from opening from hip-level through 24 Brown and cream leather bar-
elbow. Black felt hat, narrow inset waistband to neckline, strap shoes, low stacked heels.
brim, button trim. Wine and slightly flared skirt, three knife-
cream striped silk scarf. Black pleats on left side. White canvas
leather clutch bag and shoes. lace-up shoes, low heels.
52 | Descriptions
1 Cream and green flecked linen- 1 Black lace evening dress worn 1 Holiday wear. Blue, yellow and 1 Pale-blue artificial-silk
tweed coat-dress, bloused over shell-pink shift of same cream striped cotton jacket, nightdress, bloused bodice
bodice, front opening from waist shape, sleeveless bloused single-breasted two-button trimmed with coffee lace,
to under collar and revers, cream bodice, low scooped neckline fastening, wide lapels, flap repeated in V-shaped hip panel
silk infill, long inset sleeves, sewn draped with bias-cut shell-pink pockets. Cream flannel trousers, and band above hem, tied self¬
cuffs, panel seams from padded silk-velvet scarf, held on each wide legs, turn-ups, leather belt. fabric rouleau belt with bow,
shoulders to waist, double- shoulder by pearl-edged brooch, Machine-knitted white cotton matching neck edge and
breasted button trim, seams armholes draped in same shirt, short buttoned strap shoulder straps. Blue satin mules
continued to hem of flared skirt, fashion, matching velvet belt opening to under collar, worn trimmed with loops of self-fabric
self-fabric belt, diamond-shaped ruched into pearl-edged buckie, open. Brown leather lace-up rouleau, medium heels. 2 White
brown plastic buckle. Cream felt bias-cut skirt, curved V-shaped shoes. 2 Holiday wear. Pale-blue machine-knitted cotton collarless
trilby. Brown leather clutch bag; seam from side hip to centre- linen two-piece: fitted blouse vest, short sleeves, bound hems
matching shoes. 2 Double- front seam, slight train. Wide pink top, mock wrapover buttoned to match V-shaped neckline and
breasted fawn and donkey-brown plastic wrist-bangle. 2 Pale-gold fastening, wide shoulder straps, front opening, rubber buttons.
herringbone wool-tweed coat, silk-satin sleeveless evening button trim, V-shaped armholes; Short white machine-knitted
large collar and wide lapels, long dress, boat-shaped neckline flared skirt, centre-front box- drawers, elasticated waistband,
inset sleeves with cuffs, padded draped with self-fabric scarf, pleat, hip-level patch pockets, single-button fastening, fly-front
shoulders, tailored self-fabric ends fall to knee-level at back, wide waistband, button trim. opening, V-shaped hip yoke,
buckled belt, narrow skirt, hip- hems trimmed with velvet leaves Blue and yellow checked cotton wide legs, machine-stitched
level welt pockets. Brown felt hat, in golds, browns and oranges, blouse, short puff sleeves, narrow hems. 3 Full-length pale-green
brown and fawn petersham matching hem of full-length bias- cuffs, knotted bow trim, matching crepe-de-chtne slip, brassiere top
ribbon trim. Orange silk scarf. cut flared skirt, bodice and skirt bow-tie under tiny peter-pan trimmed with fine cream lace and
Fawn suede shoes. 3 Green, red cut in one piece, asymmetric collar. Yellow straw hat, wide silk ribbon, matching shoulder
and cream diagonally striped seaming across body from right brim, shallow crown. Blue and straps, inverted V-shaped seam
cotton dress, bloused bodice, V- shoulder to hem. 3 Moss-green white leather shoes. 3 Holiday from side-waist to centre-front
shaped neckline, large self-fabric silk-satin sleeveless evening wear. White cotton dress under bust and triangular panels
bow trim, short inset sleeves with dress, cowl draped from halter- patterned in coffee, high round decorating hem of full skirt.
cuffs, padded shoulders, flared neck, back fastening, fitted bias- neckline, bound edge, pleated 4 Sky-blue combination bodice
skirt, green suede belt, large cut bodice to four rows of jabot matching short sleeves set and pyjama trousers, patterned in
buckle. Green straw hat, wide horizontal panels on hipline, curve into curved yoke seam and hem bright pink, sleeveless wrapover
brim, shallow crown, red and on side hip and flare into wide of straight skirt, bloused bodice, top, fastening on side left hip,
cream petersham ribbon trim. panels at hem forming slight train. white leather belt buckled over edges piped in pink, matching
Green leather clutch bag and 4 Black silk-velvet sleeveless right hip. Brown cotton beret. armholes and ribbon belt
gauntlet gloves. Brown and evening dress, curved seam White cotton gauntlet gloves. threaded from side-front to tied
cream leather shoes. 4 Three- under bust from side to centre Brown leather clutch bag, white bow at back, wide flared
piece fawn and light-brown front, low V-shaped neckline, trim. Brown leather shoes. 4 Golf. trousers. Blue satin slippers.
striped wool suit: single-breasted infilled with bright-red and pink Yellow, brown, beige and orange 5 Cream artificial-silk dressing
jacket, three-button fastening, silk roses, matching spray on hand-knitted wool sweater, wide gown, patterned in orange,
wide lapels, flap pockets; curved seam at knee-level above neckline, scarf collar, ends tied brown and yellow spots and
collarless single-breasted deep circular-cut gathered frill, at front, long inset sleeves, plain circles, sleeveless wrapover
waistcoat; wide trousers, turn¬ bias-cut fitted bodice and narrow brown turned-back ribbed cuffs, bodice, elbow-length circular-cut
ups. Fawn striped white cotton skirt cut in one piece. Large matching deep waistband, above cape collar, edged with orange,
collar-attached shirt. Brown, red paste wrist-bangle. 5 Jade-green waist to hip-level. Brown and brown and yellow ribbons,
and black patterned silk tie. Fawn silk-satin sleeveless evening beige wool-tweed flared panelled matching side-front edge, hip-
felt trilby. Brown leather lace-up dress, low V-shaped neckline, skirt. Brown knitted-wool beret. level tied bow and long ends and
shoes. 5 Silver-grey wool-crepe trimmed on point with large Brown leather lace-up shoes, top of single hip-level patch
two-piece suit: bloused top, short pleated white silk-organdie bow, flat heels. 5 Golf. Hand-knitted pocket. Yellow satin house
peplum, V-shaped neckline bias-cut fitted bodice and skirt, maroon wool sweater, V-shaped shoes, brown and beige feather
edged with top-stitched black intricate seaming under bust, on neckline, long inset sleeves, pompon trim, high heels.
satin, matching buckled belt, front bodice and on side hips turned-back cuffs. Beige and
inset sleeves flared and gathered through to hem, slight train. fawn flecked wool-tweed
at elbow-level, fitted to wrist, top- breeches, legs gathered above
stitched black satin cuffs, padded knees, side hip pockets. Beige
shoulders, black and white wool collar-attached shirt. Striped
leather scarf-effect with flared wool tie. Beige checked wool-
ends buttoned to bodice; bias- tweed cap. Maroon, cream and
cut flared skirt. Black hat. Black fawn checked wool stockings.
and white leather shoes. Brown leather lace-up shoes.
Descriptions | 53
H u
1935 Day Wear Evening Wear Sports and Leisure Wear Blouses and Accessories
1 Charcoal, black and pale-grey 1 White silk-organdie sleeveless 1 Riding. Hip-length moss-green, 1 Hip-length blue linen collarless
flecked wool-tweed coat-dress evening dress spotted in black, fawn and tan flecked wool-tweed blouse, left side fastening, square
with horizontal rib, wrapover wide neckline and combined fitted jacket, single-breasted neckline, large navy-blue plastic
semi-fitted bodice, low V-shaped yoke, deep gathered self-fabric fastening, panel seams, wide buttons, short inset sleeves, top-
neckline, black suede vest infill, frill edged with black silk ribbon lapels, tight inset sleeves, button stitched satin binding, matching
matching wide buttoned belt with and black lace, bias-cut fitted trim, diagonal welt pockets below belt and patch pocket, padded
arrow-shaped end, short bodice and narrow skirt, wide waist. Fawn twill jodhpurs, turn¬ shoulders. Navy-blue felt hat,
shoulder cape under scarf collar gathered frill above ankle-length ups, stitched panel on inside leg split brim, top-stitched satin trim.
tied into large bow, long inset at front and mid-calf-length at at knee level. Fawn wool sweater. 2 Brown and beige striped taffeta
sleeves, padded shoulders, white back, trimmed to match yoke frill, Green, tan and cream striped silk collarless blouse, round neckline,
pique cuffs, narrow knee-length black velvet ribbon belt knotted scarf worn at neck. Moss-green bias-cut facing, top-stitched
skirt, mid-calf-length underskirt, on right side. 2 Two-piece dark- felt hat worn at an angle, curled detail, matching short inset
wide box-pleat. Black straw hat, plum velvet theatre/dinner suit: brim. Brown leather gloves; sleeves and side panels in
light-grey ribbon trim. Black waist-length single-breasted matching lace-up ankle-boots. bodice, narrow waistband, plastic
leather clutch bag; matching jacket, four-button fastening, 2 Riding. Dark-green wool single- bow trim. Brown felt hat worn at
shoes, bow trim, high heels. panelled semi-fitted bodice, breasted jacket, three-button an angle, cream petersham bow
2 Single-breasted dark-blue, grey circular black net hip yoke fastening, wide lapels, inset trim. Brown leather clutch bag;
and black wool-tweed coat, long attached at waist under self¬ sleeves, stitched cuffs, button matching gloves. 3 Pale-blue silk-
inset sleeves, black Persian lamb fabric belt, matching collar on trim, patch pockets with inverted crepe blouse, pattern of pink
‘cuffs’ from wrist to above elbow wide neckline and cuffs of long box-pleats. Light-brown twill flowers, scarf collar tied into large
and point to below padded tight inset sleeves; full-length jodhpurs, full to above knees, bow, short dolman sleeves,
shoulders, matching large collar, bias-cut panelled flared skirt. buttoned over knees, worn padded shoulders. Navy-blue
narrow skirts, hip-level piped Brimless pillbox hat covered with tucked into long brown leather suede belt, round buckle. 4 Hip-
pockets. Varnished black straw tiny black organdie flowers. boots. Cream wool collar- length dark-brown linen blouse,
hat, asymmetric brim, self-straw 3 Bronze silk-satin formal evening attached shirt. Pale-green, grey large cream linen collar matching
trim. Black leather clutch bag and dress, bias-cut bodice and full- and tan checked wool tie. Brown cuffs of short raglan-style
gloves. Black and white leather length flared skirt cut in one trilby. Brown leather gloves. sleeves, centre-front zip
shoes. 3 Two-piece grey flannel piece, central seam front and 3 Beach wear. Yellow cotton two- fastening, button trim, top-
suit: double-breasted jacket, back, wide extended shoulder piece: orange and green large stitched self-fabric belt. Beige
wide lapels, piped pockets; wide straps draped and tied above V- spot pattern, short top, halter- felt hat, brown ribbon trim. Beige
trousers, turn-ups. Grey and shaped neckline, low back. neck gathered onto white cotton leather gauntlet gloves, bow trim.
white striped cotton collar- 4 Black wool formal two-piece rope, tied at front into large bow; 5 White frilled organdie jabot,
attached shirt. Red and grey evening suit: double-breasted flared shorts cut without bow trim, wing collar. Navy-blue
striped silk tie. Grey trilby. Black tailcoat, worn open, wide satin waistband, wide legs, central linen jacket, wide lapels. Navy-
leather shoes. 4 White linen two- lapels, matching covered crease. Yellow and white blue felt hat. Navy-blue leather
piece suit: fitted hip-length jacket, buttons; wide trousers, black checked cotton shoes, self-fabric gauntlet gloves. 6 Cream
fastening on left side with large satin ribbon trim on outside rouleau bow fastening, flat heels. artificial-silk blouse, strap
navy-blue plastic buttons from seams, no turn-ups. Double- 4 Tennis. Cream machine-knitted fastening, shirt collar, shoulder
hem to bust, square neckline, breasted white pique waistcoat, cotton, ribbed design, open yoke, short inset sleeves, padded
shallow collar, inset elbow-length wide shawl collar. White collar, narrow shoulder yoke shoulders, small breast patch
cuffed sleeves, padded starched-front shirt worn with continued into short dolman pocket. Brown lacquered-straw
shoulders, navy-blue suede belt, wing collar and white bow-tie. sleeves, bodice bloused into hat, fancy crown. 7 Hip-length
asymmetric white plastic buckle; Black patent-leather shoes. waistband. Short white linen cream crepe-de-chine collarless
narrow panelled skirt, inverted 5 Sleeveless black lace culottes, knife-pleats from waist blouse, shaped seam under bust,
box-pleats from knee-level. Navy- theatre/dinner dress worn over to low hip-level. White cotton cream crepe-de-chine raglan
blue silk scarf with white spots; peach silk-crepe dress cut on ankle-socks. White canvas lace- sleeves patterned with outsized
matching brimless hat. White same lines, V-shaped neckline, up sports shoes. 5 Beach wear. bright-pink spots. 8 Oatmeal
cotton gauntlet gloves. Navy-blue panelled bodice, full-length bias- Pink, navy-blue and white silk blouse, short raglan-style
leather clutch bag. Navy-blue and cut panelled skirt, slight train. checked cotton combination sleeves, pink, yellow and pale-
white leather shoes. 5 Fawn wool Waist-length black velvet jacket, blouse and shorts, strap opening blue checked taffeta pleated
dress, semi-fitted bodice, padded bias-cut waterfall collar, ends tied from hip-level to under pointed jabot. Wide pink leather belt,
shoulders, round neckline, bias- and knotted on centre-front revers, large white plastic round buckle. Cream straw hat,
cut jabot fastened in four places waist, circular-cut elbow-length buttons, matching trim on breast pink ribbon trim. 9 Red and white
with red plastic buttons, sleeves, padded shoulders. patch pockets and large buckle spotted silk blouse, long inset
matching hems of raglan sleeves, on belt, short sleeves, padded sleeves trimmed from wrist to
belt and side-hip panel seams of shoulders, shorts with wide leg. elbow with pleated white
flared skirt. Fawn felt hat. Beige Navy-blue leather shoes, strap- organdie, matching collar and
suede shoes, red leather trim. and-bow fastening, flat heels. front opening to bust-level.
54 I Descriptions
1 Pale-blue and cream linen two- 1 Cream synthetic-and-wool 1 Country wear. Ochre, beige and 1 White artificial-silk two-piece
piece suit: semi-fitted top, mixture dinner jacket, single- tan checked wool-tweed two- pyjama suit: hip-length top,
double-breasted fastening breasted, single-button fastening, piece suit: single-breasted fitted unfitted and gathered from
between two small bust-level wide lapels faced with silk, flap jacket, three-button fastening shoulder yoke seam, tie-belt,
patch pockets and under narrow pockets. Black mohair trousers, from waist to under wide lapels, buttoned strap fastening from
roll collar, long inset sleeves, wide legs, silk braid trim on full-length fitted inset sleeves, bust-level to under peter-pan
padded shoulders, dark-blue outside seam, no turn-ups. Black padded shoulders, patch-and- collar, long inset sleeves gathered
linen belt fastening under bow silk pleated cummerbund, flap pockets; narrow skirt, centre- into narrow cuffs, applique
trim; flared skirt, box-pleats sewn matching bow-tie. White pique front split from hem to below flowers and leaf motifs in pinks,
to low hip-level. Light-brown silk collar-attached shirt. Black knee. Cream crepe blouse. Tan blues and greens decorate upper
scarf worn in V-shaped neckline. leather shoes. 2 Rust silk-crepe felt hat, feather trim. Light-brown part of bodice; matching wide
Dark-blue brimless hat. Cream evening dress, semi-fitted bodice, leather envelope clutch bag, hems of flared trousers. Pink
gauntlet gloves. Navy-blue low draped decolletage, self¬ matching gloves. Brown and tan leather moccasins. 2 Peach satin
leather clutch bag; matching fabric padded and twisted leather lace.-up shoes, high- brassiere, fitted cups covered in
shoes, stacked heels. 2 Hip- shoulder straps, narrow belt, stacked heels. 2 Ski wear. Two- peach lace, adjustable shoulder
length green wool cape, front clasp fastening, bustle attached piece bottle-green wool suit: hip- straps, back fastening. Cream
edges bound in brown leather, to back of belt, bias-cut skirt, length double-breasted belted perforated latex girdle, elasticated
padded shoulders, matching slight train at back. 3 Dull- jacket, fastening from hem to front gusset and waistband, four
flared skirt. Beige wool collarless mulberry crepe dinner dress, under stand collar, inset sleeves, adjustable and detachable
single-breasted jacket, fastened single-breasted bloused bodice, large hip-level patch-and-flap suspenders. Pale-flesh silk
with self-fabric covered buttons in three-button fastening to under pockets; wide trousers gathered stockings. 3 Salmon-pink light¬
two sets of three, single patch bust, hook-and-bar fastening into buttoned cuffs on ankle. weight knitted-wool unit-suit:
pocket above brown leather under collar, button trim, padded Cream silk scarf at neck. Knitted sleeveless vest with V-shaped
buckled belt and two below. shoulders, dropped sleeve head, rust wool hat, pompon trim. neckline, front strap fastening,
Brown felt hat, asymmetric long wide inset sleeves, wide self¬ Knitted cream wool gauntlet rubber buttons; knickers with
truncated crown. Beige leather fabric belt, button fastening, hip- mittens. Dark-green leather lace- short pant legs. Brown wool
gauntlets. Brown leather bar- level narrow circular skirt, curved up boots. 3 Holiday wear. Grey carpet slippers. 4 Pale-turquoise
strap shoes. 3 Fawn rainproofed central split to above ankles, hip- and cream striped linen two- silk slip, neck edge trimmed with
wool overcoat, fly fastening under level triangular flap pockets set at piece suit: single-breasted jacket, coffee lace matching hemline of
wide lapels, raglan sleeves, an angle. Hat in matching fabric, single-button fastening, wide flared skirt, shaped side panels
button trim, flap pockets. Striped pointed crown, twisted padded lapels, flap pockets; wide from underarm, self-fabric
wool trousers, wide legs, turn¬ brim. Black satin shoes, crossed trousers, turn-ups. Cream cotton rouleau shoulder straps.
ups. Brown felt trilby. Brown straps. 4 Red silk-velvet collar-attached shirt. Green, tan Turquoise velvet mules. 5 Pale-
leather gloves and lace-up shoes. dinner/theatre dress, bloused and grey striped silk tie. Natural blue silk nightdress, draped
4 Bottle-green wool collarless bodice, low V-shaped neckline, straw boater, green ribbon band. neckline, armholes shaped into
coat-dress, single-breasted deep armholes edged with wide Tan leather gloves and lace-up neck, trimmed with cream lace,
fastening with large black band of stiffened gold tissue, shoes. 4 Country wear. Green, shaped seam under bust,
buttons, high neckline, matching matching set of covered buttons brown and red checked wool ground-length bias-cut flared
belt buckle, long cuffed sleeves, on either side centre-front seam, single-breasted overcoat, raglan skirt. 6 Salmon-pink artificial-silk
gathers from shoulder yoke/ padded shoulders, draped skirt, sleeves, large collar, wide lapels, negligee, high round neckline
epaulettes, flared skirt, wide pleated floating panel from waist flap pockets. Plus-fours in gathered in by self-colour ribbon,
knife-pleats sewn to low hip. to ground at front, short train at matching fabric. Green and red matching tie at waist-level, full-
Black felt pillbox hat with green back. 5 Dull-moss-green crepe spotted silk scarf. Brown wool- length bishop-style inset sleeves
silk roses. Black clutch bag. evening dress, ruched bodice, tweed peaked cap. Brown gathered into padded shoulders
Black and white leather shoes. narrow shoulder straps hidden leather gloves and lace-up shoes. and into ruched elasticated
5 Pale-yellow lightweight wool under pleated pale-grey silk 5 Holiday wear. Pale yellow bands at wrist-level, ground-
coat-dress, single-breasted chiffon, trails to ground at back, artificial-silk dress patterned in length full skirt and bodice cut
fastening with large buttons from brooch trim on neck edge, brown, round neckline, top- in one piece.
tie-belt to under matching scarf panelled skirt flared from stitched facing, matching panel
collar, dropped and padded knee-level with circular-cut seams and hip-level patch
shoulderline, three-quarter-length inset godets. pockets, short flared raglan
panelled sleeves, narrow cuffs, sleeves, padded shoulders,
seams of panelled bodice bloused bodice, cord lacing
continued into flared skirt from decoration each side centre-front
waist to hem. Dark-ochre felt hat, from neck to bustline, flared skirt,
wide brim split to form peak at panel seams end in pleats, white
front, self-trim. Cream gauntlet leather belt. Beige straw hat.
gloves. Brown leather shoes. White gloves and shoes.
Descriptions | 55
1937 Day Wear Wedding Wear Sports and Leisure Wear Footwear
1 Three-piece light-grey and 1 Cream silk-crepe two-piece: 1 Country wear. Two-piece brown 1 Brown suede shoes, high
charcoal striped wool suit: single- wrapover jacket, long shawl and black flecked wool-tweed vamps, open sides, leather heels.
breasted jacket, three-button collar, draped tied belt, long suit: single-breasted jacket, 2 Dark-green leather lace-up
fastening, wide lapels, flap waterfall ends, inset sleeves, full three-button fastening, narrow shoes, no toecaps, decorative
pockets; collarless single- from padded shoulders, gathered lapels, flap pockets, knee-length top-stitching. 3 Cream leather
breasted waistcoat; wide trousers at elbow-level, tight and ruched plus-fours. Hand-knitted brown shoes, donkey-brown leather trim
with turn-ups. Fawn and white from elbow to wrist-level, pointed wool sweater. Cream collar- on toes, matching high heels.
striped cotton collar-attached hem, button fastening from wrist attached shirt. Brown wool- 4 Navy-blue leather shoes, high
shirt. Grey, brown and tan striped to elbow; full-length dress, cowl tweed tie. Brown wool-tweed vamps, button-and-strap trim,
silk tie. Grey trilby. Black leather neckline, panelled flared skirt, peaked cap. Long beige wool high heels. 5 Black satin dance
gloves and shoes. 2 Short brown slight train. Brimless hat, covered socks. Brown and tan leather shoes, red linings, wide bar
linen collarless bolero-style in cream silk, edged with pearls; lace-up shoes. 2 Country wear. straps, covered button fastening,
jacket, edge-to-edge, long inset short cream net veil. 2 Bias-cut Bottle-green, cream and rust high heels. 6 White kid shoes,
sleeves, padded shoulders, oyster satin wedding dress, high checked wool seven-eighths- navy-blue trim, matching high
mock-flap pockets. Cream linen round neckline edged with two length coat, single-breasted, heels. 7 Cream leather lace-up
dress, top-stitched, buttoned rows of pearl-edged embroidered single-button fastening, wide brogues, brown toecaps and
step opening from bust to under net, matching trim on gathered lapels, padded shoulders, inset trim, perforated detail. 8 Wine
round neckline, flared skirt, puff oversleeves and pearl-edged sleeves, buttoned cuffs, patch suede shoes, self-suede looped
inverted box-pleat from above hem of tight undersleeves, fitted pockets. Bottle-green wool skirt, trim, high heels. 9 White canvas
knee-level to hemline, brown bodice, seam from centre-front centre-front knife-pleat. Cream shoes, navy-blue leather toecaps
leather belt, large gilt buckle. under bust to bust point to side wool scarf. Bottle-green felt hat, and trim, matching high heels.
Brown felt hat, cream silk seams above waist, fitted skirt, small crown, rust ribbon band. 10 Black leather shoes, high
drapery. Cream gauntlet gloves. short train. Ground-length Brown leather shoes. 3 Tennis. strap-and-buckle fastening.
Brown leather bag. Brown and Edwardian lace veil, scalloped White cotton dress, bloused 11 Tan leather sandals, open
cream leather shoes. 3 Fawn and edges; heart-shaped headdress bodice, stepped button fastening sides, matching detail on front,
rust checked wool collarless of wax flowers and pearls. under round neckline, vertical strap-and-buckle fastening.
double-breasted coat, large 3 White silk-crepe wedding epaulettes, padded shoulders, 12 Donkey-brown leather shoes,
buttons under high neckline and dress, draped neckline between puff sleeves, wide self-fabric high vamps, ribbon lace-up
on waistline, small mock-flap raglan seams of white silk-chiffon buckled belt, flared skirt, small fastening, high heels. 13 Black
pockets on bust and hip-level, sleeves, flared to wrists and hip-level patch pockets set at an suede evening shoes, gold kid
long inset sleeves, padded below, bias-cut bodice and skirt angle, facing knife-pleats from linings, black satin bar straps,
shoulders, flared skirt. Rust silk cut in one piece, short train. pocket points. White cotton high slender heeis. 14 Bottle-
scarf. Brown felt hat, narrow White pleated silk fan-shaped ankle-socks. White sports shoes. green calf-leather shoes, high
curled brim. Brown leather bag, headdress; long silk-tulle veil, 4 Country wear. Double-breasted tongues, self-leather buckles,
gloves and shoes. 4 Navy-blue embroidered edges. 4 Turquoise tan wool coat, wide lapels, high heels. 15 Black leather lace-
linen collarless coat, edge-to- satin bridesmaid’s dress, pattern outsized collar, padded up shoes, top-stitched trim.
edge, loop-and-button fastening of pink, white, pale-blue and shoulders, long sleeves, button 16 Silver kid evening sandals,
on waist, fitted panelled bodice pale-green flowers and leaves, trim, self-fabric buckled belt, hip- open sides, matching details on
and flared skirt cut in one piece, padded shoulders, short inset level patch-and-flap pockets, front, ankle straps, high slender
full-length inset sleeves, padded puff sleeves gathered into narrow flared skirts. Cream and green heels. 17 Navy-blue leather
shoulders, navy-blue suede bands, semi-fitted bodice, patterned silk scarf. Brown felt shoes, wide white leather
flower. Collarless white linen centre-front seam ruched from hat, shallow rounded crown, self¬ inserted trim, high heels.
dress patterned with red birds. bust-level to under V-shaped felt trim. Brown leather gloves 18 Brown lace-up country
Navy-blue lacquered-straw hat, neckline, velvet ribbon belt, round and shoes. 5 Holiday wear. Pale- brogues, perforated detail.
shallow crown trimmed with buckle, flared skirt. Turquoise blue artificial-silk two-piece suit 19 Cream kid shoes, black
white ribbon bow, wide brim. straw hat, rouleau band and bow patterned in white and fawn patent-leather toecaps and high
White cotton gauntlet gloves. in dress fabric. 5 Pale-pink silk- circles: short fitted single- heels. 20 Black leather shoes,
Navy-blue leather bag. Navy-blue taffeta wedding dress, high round breasted jacket, three self-fabric- stitched detail, high heels.
and white leather shoes. 5 Dark- neckline, small mandarin collar, covered buttons under wide 21 Brown suede shoes, tan
red lightweight wool dress, padded shoulders, short puffed lapels, padded shoulders, puff leather shaped toecaps, high
bloused bodice, shaped seam oversleeves, tight undersleeves sleeves, waist-level mock-flap heels. 22 Olive-green leather
under bust, ruched either side ruched from wrist to elbow, pockets; flared skirt, pintucked shoes, self-leather roll trim,
central seam, wing collar, full- decorative pearl-button trim, panels from hip yoke. Beige high slender heels. 23 Black
length inset sleeves, padded matching centre-front seam from lacquered-straw hat, small leather shoes, stitched detail,
shoulders, two-tier flared skirts, under neckline to low hip-level crown, flat top, wide brim, yellow high heels. 24 Ginger-brown
wide black suede belt knotted flared skirt. Pale-pink silk- and white felt flower trim. White leather shoes, high tongues,
into bow on centre front. Black organdie headdress, pearl trim; gloves. Light-brown leather bag self-leather covered buckles,
suede shoes, bow trim. long pink silk-tulle veil. and shoes. high stacked heels.
56 | Descriptions
1938 Day Wear Evening Wear Sports and Leisure Wear Unden/vear and Negligee
1 Lightweight navy-blue wool 1 Evening coat in multicoloured 1 Beach wear. Ankle-length pale- 1 Two-piece pale-blue washable-
dress, high round neckline brocade on gold background, green towelling beach coat, satin pyjama suit: fitted top
trimmed with white cotton pique single-breasted fastening with multicoloured outsized flower trimmed with three diagonal pink
tabs, navy-blue and white small gilt flower-shaped buttons print, single-breasted fastening satin ribbons on each side from
spotted silk scarf set into from above knee-level to under from mid-calf level to under long side seams to under pleated
diagonal panel seams, long inset outsized lapels, fitted bodice, pointed green satin top-stitched peter-pan collar, matching trim on
sleeves, padded shoulders, self¬ padded shoulders, short puff collar which matches cuffs of elbow-length puffed sleeves and
fabric belt, plastic buckle, flared sleeves, ground-length flared elbow-length puffed sleeves, bow trim over keyhole opening;
skirt, seamed side panels, end panelled skirts. Long white kid buttoned belt and covered ground-length flared trousers,
front-facing knife pleats. Navy- gloves. Small gold sequined bag. buttons; fitted bodice, padded fitted over hips, narrow
blue suede shoes, chain trim. Gold kid strap sandals. 2 Deep- shoulders, hip-level pockets in waistband. Pale-blue peep-toe
2 Navy-blue wool two-piece suit: wine taffeta evening dress, fitted side seams of flared skirts. Green slippers. 2 Green spotted cream
double-breasted fitted jacket, bodice shirred on centre-front leather strap sandals, peep-toes, silk dressing gown, wrapover
two-button fastening under wide seam from curved hip seam to platform soles. 2 Skating. Dark- front, bloused bodice, padded
lapels, flap pockets; straight-cut low neckline, wide shoulder green machine-knitted sweater, shoulders, full-length bishop-style
trousers, turn-ups. White collar- straps, self-fabric ground-length ribbed polo collar matching cuffs sleeves, deep cuffs, skirts fitted
attached shirt. Striped silk tie. underskirt gathered from hip, of long inset sleeves, padded over hips, flared to ground-
Navy-blue trilby, black ribbon spotted net overskirt, frilled self¬ shoulders. Thigh-length navy- length, hip-level patch pockets,
band. Black leather shoes. fabric trim at knee-level and on blue wool gored skirt, narrow outsized revers faced with white
3 Pale-green linen mixture two- hem. 3 Two-piece dinner waistband, button fastening. spotted green silk, matching
piece suit: edge-to-edge ensemble: hip-length oyster silk- Long navy-blue leather boots. lining of wide tie-belt. 3 Vest and
collarless cardigan jacket, long satin blouse, collar and rever- 3 Holiday wear. Three-piece knicker set in machine-knitted
sleeves, padded shoulders, hip- shaped seams from padded cruising suit in heavyweight navy- peach silk: hip-length vest top,
level patch pockets, self-fabric shoulders to side hem, V-shaped blue silk: collarless edge-to-edge lace-edged neckline, narrow satin
buckled belt; straight skirt, wide neckline faced to below bust, thigh-length jacket, long flared ribbon shoulder straps, deep
front panel. Brown silk blouse, tassel trim, horizontal pintucked sleeves, padded shoulders, hip- rib from under bust to hip,
bow-tie neckline. White straw yoke matching upper part of level patch pockets trimmed with elasticated waist rib; long fitted
hat, small crown, asymmetric short puff sleeves, side-hip natural and sandstone silk; knickers, wide rib at hem,
brim, brown ribbon trim. White panels from waist to hem and matching single-breasted blouse, elasticated waistband. Peach
gloves. Brown leather handbag; half-belt with vertical pintucks; fastening from waist to under velvet mules, high heels. 4 Pale-
matching leather shoes, diagonal ground-length black velvet skirt. pointed collar; ankle-length wide green washable-silk nightdress,
bar straps, high heels. 4 Pale- 4 Multicoloured printed silk- flared trousers, central creases bloused bodice pintucked under
blue washable-silk dress, button crepe dinner dress on black and turn-ups, waistband arms and across front bustline,
fastening from hem to under tiny background, fitted bodice, decorated with three buttons. edged at neck with self-fabric
collar, top-stitched panel seams curved seams from side waist Navy-blue canvas sandals, peep- ruched frills, matching pintucked
from padded shoulders to above to under square keyhole below toes, wooden platform soles and shoulder straps, narrow self¬
knee-level end in inverted box- high round neckline, padded short thick heels. 4 Tennis. fabric tie-belt, ground-length
pleats, top-stitching repeated on shoulders, short puff sleeves, Single-breasted collarless white flared skirt. 5 Black satin cami-
hems of puff sleeves, on narrow wide self-fabric tie-belt, ground- linen blouse, short inset sleeves, knickers, trimmed on neck edge
belt, on hip-level pockets and length flared skirt. Elbow-length curved half-yoke from under arm and diagonally over bust with
on covered buttons. Brown black silk gloves. 5 Two-piece to mid-shoulder, small breast inset flat rouleau embroidery,
lacquered-straw hat, tiny flat- black wool evening suit: single- pockets, decorative blue silk matching shoulder straps, fitted
topped crown, white ribbon trim, breasted fitted jacket, linked- handkerchief in left pocket. bodice, shaped seam under bust,
wide stiff brim. Large brown button fastening under wide Tailored white linen flared shorts, knickers fitted over hips, wide
leather handbag, matching lapels, bound pockets; straight- central top-stitched seams end in flare to hem, fine lace edging.
shoes, high tongues, openwork, cut trousers, braid trim on outside inverted box-pleats, top-stitched Black velvet mules, black satin
high heels. 5 Dark-beige wool seams, no turn-ups. White cotton belt and buckle. White ankle- rosettes and trim, high heels.
single-breasted coat, two-button pique shirt worn with wing collar. socks and sports shoes.
fastening, hip-length shaped front Black satin bow-tie. Black 5 Tennis. White machine-knitted
panel in leopard-patterned cloth, patent-leather shoes. cotton shirt, pointed collar, short
incorporating pockets, large buttoned-strap opening, short
collar, padded shoulders, long sleeves. Tailored white linen
inset sleeves, flared skirts. Tan felt shorts, zipped fly, buttoned
hat, flat circular brim, upturned waistband, pleats and central
edge, small crown, narrow self¬ creases, slanted side pockets,
fabric strap at back. Cream no turn-ups. White ankle-socks
leather shoes, tan leather and sports shoes.
toecaps and bow trim.
Descriptions | 57
1939 Day Wear Evening Wear Sports and Leisure Wear Accessories
1 Edge-to-edge light-brown 1 Pearl-grey evening dress, finely 1 Golf. Two-piece brown, fawn 1 Beige felt beret, top-stltched
wool-tweed coat, held at waist by pleated fitted bodice, low and green checked wool-tweed detail. Brown velvet scarf. 2 Grey
buckled self-fabric belt and at neckline, narrow self-fabric suit: fitted edge-to-edge jacket, felt hat, pleated brim, fur trim.
bust-level with a hook and bar, rouleau shoulder straps, deep linked-button fastening under 3 Navy-blue leather shoes, high
narrow fur collar matching cuffs waist inset of pearl-grey satin, notched shawl collar in plain vamps, ribbon laces, top-stitched
of long inset sleeves, trim on ground-length sunray-pleated brown wool-tweed, matching detail, high heels. 4 Brimless
shaped yoke seam and hip-level skirt; dress worn over a slip of stitched cuffs of long inset black felt hat, top-stitched edges
seams incorporating pockets, primrose-yellow silk. Grey satin sleeves, hip-level flap pockets and detail, pink and grey pleated
flared skirts. Wine felt hat, self¬ muff decorated with Iceland and side panels of skirt, front organdie fans at back. 5 Green
colour ribbon trim. Brown leather poppies in tea-rose-pink and panel wide box-pleat. Collarless felt hat, tall crown, gold satin
handbag and gloves; matching soft-orange. 2 Royal-blue silk- single-breasted flannel waistcoat. ribbon trim. 6 Bottle-green and
shoes. 2 Single-breasted fawn, crepe evening dress, strapless Cream silk scarf in neck. Fawn white leather shoes, top-stitched
grey and tan checked wool- boned bodice shirred in three felt hat, truncated crown, wide detail, ribbon laces, high heels.
tweed overcoat, three-button vertical lines, three-tier skirt, brim. Brown and cream leather 7 Black and white leather shoes,
fastening under wide lapels, knee-length top skirt, longer at lace-up shoes. 2 Winter sports. ribbon laces. 8 Wine-red suede
cuffed raglan sleeves, vertical hip- back, draped from side hip to Two-piece wine-red waterproofed shoes, wide bar straps, black
level welt pockets, top-stitched side hip, mid-calf-length middle wool-gaberdine suit: single- pleated-leather bow trim,
edges and detail. Grey wool tier, longer at back, ground- breasted jacket fastening from medium heels. 9 Cream linen hat,
trousers. Tan wool scarf. Collar- length third tier. Royal-blue satin hip-level to under wide lapels, six top-stitched asymmetric crown,
attached shirt. Tweed tie. Grey strap sandals, peep-toes, thin welt pockets with button trim, wide brim. 10 Small grey felt hat,
felt trilby. Brown leather gloves platform soles. 3 White silk- black patent-leather buckled belt, tiny crown, upswept narrow brim,
and shoes. 3 Two-piece rust, chiffon evening dress, hand- long inset sleeves; full trousers green feather trim. 11 Navy-blue
cream and fawn flecked wool- painted design of large garlands gathered into cuffs at ankle level. and grey bar-strap shoes, ribbon
tweed suit: hip-length edge-to- of anemones in tones of pink, Black knitted-wool scarf and pixie laces, high heels. 12 Blue felt hat,
edge jacket, held at waist by mauve, pale-blue and apple- hood. Lambswool gauntlet pleated crown, self-felt bow trim.
wide rust leather tie-belt and with green, high waist seam under mittens. Black boots. 3 Boating. 13 Deep-purple felt hat, shallow
hook and bar under leopard-skin bust, wide self-fabric shoulder Yellow linen blouse, button crown, flat top, upswept brim,
collar, matching panels under straps, fitted panelled bodice and fastening from waist to under fine veil. 14 Mustard-yellow felt
bust to hemline, cut away over ground-length flared skirt cut in open collar, short sleeves, hat, wide upswept brim, black
side hips, padded shoulders, one piece with no waist seam. stitched cuffs, yoke seam above petersham ribbon trim. Fur scarf.
long inset sleeves; flared skirt. Long apple-green silk gloves. bust, two inset mock-pointed flap 15 Brown leather shoes, pleated
Brimless fawn felt hat, rust silk 4 Dinner ensemble: collarless pockets. Navy-blue linen flared fan-shaped tongues, high heels.
trim. Black leather handbag and fitted jacket, wide horizontal shorts, side-hip pockets, button 16 Natural leather strap sandals,
gloves, matching sling-back stripes of black, red, silver and trim, matching waistband. White leather thong fastening, low
shoes, peep-toes, high heels. gold sequins, edge of V-shaped ankle-socks. Lace-up navy-blue wooden heels and platform soles.
4 Silk dress, slightly bloused neckline and front edges bound canvas shoes with rope soles. 17 Brown leather bag, ruched
collarless bodice, patterned blue, in black satin, gold and black 4 Golf. Single-breasted brown detail, rouleau handles and trim.
lilac and pink on navy-blue glass buttons, long tight sleeves, and beige flecked wool-tweed 18 Dark-green leather bag, long
background, gathers between pleated heads, padded jacket, three-button fastening, handle, zip fastening. 19 Navy-
half-yoke seams above bust and shoulders. Ground-length black wide lapels, large patch pockets. blue leather bag, metal frame,
shaped seam above waist, velvet flared skirt. Black satin Light-brown flannel trousers, rouleau handles, zip fastening.
elbow-length puff sleeves, plain shoes, peep-toes. 5 Cream straight-cut legs, turn-ups. Green 20 Pale-pink straw hat, wide
navy-blue silk flared panelled rayon-organdie evening dress knitted-wool sweater, V-shaped brim, shallow crown, pink and
skirt, self-fabric belt. Blue straw patterned with pale-sea-green neckline. Cream cotton shirt. white petersham ribbon trim.
hat, pink ribbon trim. Pink gloves. fern leaves, hip-length fitted Rust wool tie. Light-brown wool- 21 Cream leather sling-back
Navy-blue leather shoes, cross bodice, sweetheart neckline, tweed peaked cap. Brown and shoes, peep-toes, top-stitched
straps, peep-toes. 5 Hip-length short puff sleeves, worn over beige leather shoes. 5 Boating. detail, high heels, platform soles.
fawn wool unfitted jacket, single- strapless boned underbodice in Blue, white and green striped 22 Brown leather bag, metal
breasted fastening from bust- plain cream rayon, matching cotton shirt, pointed collar worn frame, short handle, gilt
level to under stand collar, curved ground-length skirts, each open, short sleeves, stitched monogram. 23 Apple-green
half-shoulder yoke joined to gathered into scalloped hip cuffs, large chest-level patch leather strap sandals, open sides,
vertical side-panel seams, hip- seam. Pink and pale-green silk pockets with buttoned flaps. peep-toes, low thick heels.
level welt pockets, long cuffed flower hair decoration. Pale- Navy-blue linen shorts, wide legs, 24 Grey leather shoes,
sleeves. Light-brown wool skirt. sea-green purse. no turn-ups. Navy-blue canvas elasticated sides, perforated
Fawn felt hat, navy-blue ribbon step-in shoes, rope soles. detail, medium heels. 25 Tiny
trim. Fawn leather gloves. Fawn brown straw top hat, ribbon trim.
and navy-blue leather shoes, 26 Leather sandals, peep-toes,
perforated decoration. wooden platform soles.
58 I Descriptions
Chart of the Development of 1930s Fashion
Biographies of Designers
Sources for 1930s Fashion
Chart of the Development of 1930s Fashion
60
Day Wear Evening Wear Day Wear 1935
Chart of the Development of 1930s Fashion 61

Biographies of Designers
Adrian (Adrian Adolph under the label ‘Chanel Mode’. In garment being modelled on the She was also the first couturier to
Greenburg) 1903-59. Costume 1913 she opened her first hat mannequin by hand with minimal design clothes for entire families,
designer. Born Naugatuck, shop in Deauville and two years use of patterns or cutting. presenting a line of menswear in
Connecticut, USA. In the 1930s later started a dress shop in 1926. The following year the first
Hartnell, (Sir) Norman
Adrian was Hollywood’s most Biarritz. In 1916 she introduced of Lanvin’s famous perfumes,
1901-79. Designer. Born
influential designer. His many jersey, and her first published ‘Arpege’, was produced. During
London, England. Hartnell
widely copied designs include a design, for a chemise dress, the 1930s she often used parallel
worked at Madame Desiree,
slouch hat worn by Greta Garbo appeared in Harper’s Bazaar. The stitching and embroidered
Esther's and with Lucile before
in the 1929 film A Woman of 1920s saw her career flourish sequins and continued to show
opening his own premises in
Affairs and a white organdie with the founding of her Paris her famous ‘robes de style’ which
London in 1923. His career took
dress with ruffled sleeves created house and the launch of her most were inspired by eighteenth-
off during the late 1920s when
for Joan Crawford in Lefty Lynton famous perfume, ‘No. 5’. In the century dresses. Preferring
he became famous for his
in 1932. As well as his work same decade she was embroidery and appliqued motifs
extravagant wedding dresses,
for films, he also made chic, responsible for introducing the to patterned material, she
though he also designed for the
wearable suits, sometimes ‘little black dress’, wide-legged transformed motifs from
theatre and for films. He was
decorated with applique. He yatching pants, lightweight orientalism, botanical etchings
appointed dressmaker to the
retired as a costume designer evening chemises, geometrically and Renaissance, Aztec and
British Royal Family in 1938 and
in 1942. patterned beaded dresses and modern art into her own
created Elizabeth ll’s wedding
the first of her famous tweed individual designs. She also
Augustabernard (Augusta dress and coronation gown as
suits. She also began her became famous for her use of a
Bernard) 1886-1946. well as designing many outfits for
unconventional mixing of fabrics particular shade of blue which
Designer. Born Biarritz, France. her overseas tours. His designs
- plain with patterned jersey, or was known as ‘Lanvin blue’.
Augustabernard opened her were central in forming the image
tweed with floral silk. In the 1930s
own business in Biarritz in 1920, of the royal family. In the 1940s Lelong, Lucien 1889-1958.
Chanel continued to develop her
moving to Paris in 1923. She Hartnell went on to produce his Designer. Born Paris, France.
range of costume jewelry; her
became famous for dramatic, own ready-to-wear lines. Lelong trained at the Hautes
long gilt chains, rows of pearls
well-cut evening dresses in Etudes des Commerciales, Paris,
and mixtures of semi-precious James, Charles 1906-78.
pale, sombre colours and for and established his own business
stones achieved particular Designer. Born Sandhurst,
uncomplicated day clothes, often after World War I. He became
popularity. During this period her England. James began his
in tweed. She was known for known for his skilful use of
evening wear became more fashion career when he opened
decorating her elegant, slender beautiful fabrics in creating
feminine and ornate, though she a hat shop in Chicago in 1924
evening gowns with flounces, elegant, understated dresses
also began using fabrics such as under the name of a schoolfriend,
scalloped tiers and scarves and evening wear. He was one
linen and cotton organdie which ‘Charles Boucheron’. He created
attached at the hip or shoulder. of the first designers to produce
had previously been used only for his first dress collection in New
She retired in 1934. stockings and lingerie. In the late
day clothes. Chanel closed her York in 1928, his first London
1930s Lelong designed tight-
Bruyere, Marie-Louise Dates house in 1939 but reopened in collection in 1929, and his first
waisted, full skirts which were
unknown. Designer. Bruyere 1954, with the launch of a jersey Paris collection in 1934. By
precursors to Dior’s ‘New Look’
trained at Callot Soeurs, joined suit, the ‘No. 5’. Among the other 1940 he had returned to New
of 1947.
Lanvin in 1920 and opened her styles associated with her name York and established a house
own house in 1928.She had a are braid-trimmed collarless under his own name. An architect Louiseboulanger (Louise
reputation for exclusivity. In the cardigan-jackets, slingback two- of dress, James created superbly Boulanger) 1900-? Designer.
1930s, her three-quarter-length tone sandals and handbags with cut, sculpted ball gowns using Born France. At the age of
coats worn over afternoon gilt chains. large quantities of lavish fabrics 13 Louiseboulanger was
dresses were particularly often arranged asymmetrically apprenticed to a dressmaking
Dache, Lilly 1904-89. Milliner.
successful. in bunches and folds. He was business. She was then
Born Begles, France. After an
also known for his highly employed by Cheruit until she
Carnegie, Hattie (Henrietta apprenticeship with a milliner in
structured coats, his dresses founded her own business in
Kanengeiser) 1889-1956. Bordeaux, Dache worked briefly
with spiral zips and his quilted 1923. She created refined,
Designer, manufacturer. Born for Suzanne Talbot and then for
ivory-satin jackets. graceful garments, often using
Vienna, Austria. Carnegie began Caroline Reboux in Paris. In 1924
heavy fabrics such as taffeta
her career at the age of 15 at she joined a small New York Lanvin, Jeanne 1867-1946.
and moire in warm colours. Her
Macy’s department store, New milliners, which she bought out Designer. Born Brittany, France.
innovations include the ‘pouf
York, dressing hats. She moved almost immediately. She quickly After an apprenticeship with
silhouette and knee-length
into clothing design in 1913 and became famous for her turbans, Suzanne Talbot, Lanvin opened
evening skirts which fell to the
launched her first collection in cloche hats, snoods and caps. her own millinery shop in Paris in
ankles at the back. The house
1918. Her first ready-to-wear 1890. She began making clothes
Gres Couture house. Founded in closed in 1939.
collection followed in 1928. commercially after customers
1941 by Paris-born Germaine
Carnegie was best known for commented on the garments she Mainbocher (Main Rousseau
Krebs (1903-93). Krebs had
grey tailored suits and black made for her younger sister and Bocher) 1891-1976. Designer.
trained with Premet and in 1934
dresses which she sold in her daughter. Lanvin became famous Born Chicago, USA. Mainbocher
she opened a couture house,
own retail stores across America. for her mother/daughter outfits was the first American couturier
‘Alix’, in association with Julie
Her success was largely due to which were significant in the to achieve success in Paris,
Barton. ‘Alix’ closed in 1939.
an ability to adapt Paris haute- development of fashion for opening his own house there
‘Madame Gres’, as Krebs
couture fashions to the US blurring the distinction between in 1930. During the 1930s he
became known at her own
market, where her smart but clothing for different age groups. became famous for embroidered,
house, was famous for draped
conventional clothes became She created the basic shape for apron-style evening dresses, for
and pleated dresses - in silk and
highly sought after. the 1920s at the beginning of his use of the bias cut and for
wool - which resemble classical
World War I with the chemise creating a trend for ‘Wallis blue’
Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco) Greek robes, often cut on the
1883-1971. Born Saumur, dress. Other designs which with the wedding dress he
bias and with dolman sleeves.
became characteristic of the designed for the Duchess of
France. Chanel began her career She adopted a sculptural
period include her breton suits Windsor. He opened a salon in
as a milliner in Paris in 1910, approach to dressmaking, each
and beaded evening dresses. New York in 1940.
62
Maxwell, Vera (Vera Huppe) Patou, Jean 1880-1936. most important and influential Stiebel, Victor 1907-76
1901 —. Designer. Born New York, Designer. Born Normandy, designers of the 1930s. Inspired Designer. Born Durban,
USA. Maxwell started her career France. Patou opened the small by Javanese and Balinese South Africa. Stiebel began an
by making clothes for herself. By firm Maison Parry in 1912, traditional costumes, he apprenticeship with Reville and
1936 she was attracting the achieving a brief success before introduced broad-shouldered Rossiter in 1929 and in 1932
attention of the fashion press and the advent of World War I forced garments to his collections in opened his own house. He
from the late 1930s her designs the firm’s closure. In 1919 he 1933, creating a look usually created romantic evening wear
were being bought by Seventh reopened under his own name, attributed to Schiaparelli. Other in the neo-classical style and was
Avenue firms such as Adler and producing bell-skirted, high- innovative designs included well known for his restrained day
Adler. Maxwell established her waisted dresses. His Cubistic sculpted wool coats with widely clothes, usually in soft fabrics
own business in 1947, creating sweaters were also very popular. stitched seams, trouser suits in such as jersey.
classic, wearable separates and Patou was enormously influential grey flannel and the ‘guepiere’
Valentina (Valentina
suits, wraparound jersey dresses with his sports and bathing wear bustier of 1943. Rochas was
Nicholaevna Sanina)
and riding jackets. She was which included the calf-length also famous for imaginative
1899-1989. Designer. Born Kiev,
influenced by men’s country pleated skirts and sleeveless embroidery and appliques and
Russia. Valentina established
clothes and used natural dyes to cardigans worn by the tennis bizarre decorative features such
her house in 1928. While her
produce autumnal tones. player Suzanne Lenglen. In 1924 as stuffed birds and buttons
daywear was often simple and
he initiated a trend by putting his shaped like butterflies, lipstick
McCardell, Claire 1905-58. practical, sometimes displaying
own initials on his clothing and and pipes. He often worked with
Designer. Born Frederick, USA. peasant influences, she was best
in 1927 was one of the first flower-patterned fabric and was
During the late 1920s and 1930s known for her dramatic evening
designers to revert to the natural one of the first designers to add
McCardell worked with Richard wear and swirling capes. She
waistline, heralding the shape pockets to his skirts.
Turk at Townley Frocks, and then was also a skilled designer of
which came to predominate
for Flattie Carnegie. One of her Rouff, Maggy (Maggie millinery, especially snoods,
during the 1930s. The House of
first highly successful designs Besan£on de Wagner) turbans and veils.
Patou continued to be hugely
was the waistless, bias-cut 1896-1971. Designer. Born
successful after his death. Vionnet, Madeleine
‘monastic dress’ of 1938. Paris, France. After working in
1876-1975. Born Aubervilliers,
Returning to Townley Frocks in Philippe et Gaston (Philippe her parent’s company, Drecoll,
France. At the age of 11
1940 to design under her own Hecht and Gaston Rouff founded her own house in
Vionnet was apprenticed to a
name, McCardell produced easy- Kaufmann) Couture house. 1929. She became famous for
dressmaker. Six years later she
fitting clothes made from cotton, After training at Jenny, Kaufmann comfortable couture garments
joined the House of Vincent in
denim, gingham and jersey which joined Hecht to form a couture which often featured feminine
Paris, rising to head seamstress
were hugely influential. house which opened in 1922. details such as fichu collars,
after two years. In 1898 she
Philippe et Gaston had particular puffed sleeves, ‘bustle’-draped
Molyneux, (Captain) Edward travelled to London, where she
success with their pearl- skirts and bow motifs. During the
1891-1974. Designer. Born worked for the dressmaker Kate
embroidered evening dresses 1930s Rouff created closely fitted
London, England. Molyneux O’Reilly. Returning to Paris in
and ensembles for day wear, dresses with shirring, sometimes
began his career producing 1900, she spent two years as
continuing to attract the attention decorated with diagonal tiers of
illustrations for magazines and head seamstress at Callot Soeurs
of the fashion press until the ruffles. She also introduced many
advertisements and in 1911 before moving to Doucet in 1907.
house closed in 1937. innovations into sportswear,
was employed as a sketcher In 1912 she opened her own
including her jersey ‘plus-fours’.
by Lucile. Fie opened his own Piguet, Robert 1901-53. house. The late 1920s and 1930s
Rouff was known for her
couture house in Paris in 1919, Designer. Born Yverdon, saw Vionnet at the height of her
imaginative use of colour.
becoming famous for simple Switzerland. After training as a success. Always an innovative
tailored suits and skirts in muted banker, Piguet moved to Paris in Schiaparelli, Elsa 1890-1973. designer, she drew inspiration
tones which were seen as 1918 and worked for Redfern Designer. Born Rome, Italy. from many sources, in particular
archetypally English in their and Poiret. Opening in 1933, the Schiaparelli moved to Paris in Ancient Greek civilization - she
restrained elegance. In the House of Piguet was known for 1922 and opened a boutique, was much influenced by the
1930s, a decade dominated romantic evening gowns and ‘Pour le Sport’, in 1927. The design of the peplos. Simplicity
by Schiaparelli’s eccentric, elegant suits and dresses, often following year she showed her and austerity are at the core of
humorous style, Molyneux’s in grey, beige or blue. Piguet also first collection. Her clothes were her work. Vionnet was a supreme
streamlined designs were made costumes for the stage chic and eccentric, strongly technician, draping her toiles on
particularly sought after. Between and frequently employed other influenced by modern art a wooden doll to achieve perfect
1925 and 1932 he opened designers, including Balmain, movements. She commissioned proportions between body and
further branches in Monte Carlo, Dior, Galanos and Givenchy. artists such as Salvador Dali and dress. She is best remembered
Cannes, Biarritz and London. Jean Cocteau to design fabrics for her mastery of the bias cut.
Ricci, Nina (Maria Nielli)
Molyneux retired in 1950. An and accessories and produced She retired in 1939.
1883-1970. Designer. Born
attempted comeback in 1965 a range of surreal garments,
Turin, Italy. After training with a Worth 1858-1954. Couture
was unsuccessful. often with trompe-l’oeil effects.
couturier, Ricci opened her own house. Founded by the English
Her many innovations included
Morton, Digby 1906-83. house in 1932. She worked couturier Charles Frederick
unusually shaped buttons,
Designer. Born Dublin, Ireland. by draping fabric round the Worth, the House of Worth
padlock fastenings, lip-shaped
Morton worked for Lachasse in mannequin to create distinctive, remained in family hands after
pockets, and hats in the form of
London in the late 1920s and luxurious garments. Ricci his death in 1895. In the 1930s
ice-cream cones, shoes or lamb
established his own business in designed clothes that were the house was run first by Jean-
cutlets. In 1933 her broad-
1933, becoming well known for classical rather than innovative Charles Worth, grandson of the
shouldered pagoda sleeve set
his use of Aran knits and Donegal in style and which were popular founder, and then from 1936
the basic shape for fashion until
tweeds, often combined with silk with older clients. by Roger and Maurice Worth,
the New Look. Known for her
blouses. Morton is also widely who maintained its reputation
Rochas, Marcel 1902-55. gifted use of colour, Schiaparelli
credited with having adapted for refined, sumptuous, highly
Designer. Born Paris, France. promoted ‘Shocking Pink’ and
the traditional tailor-made suit fashionable clothes. The
Rochas established his house was the first designer to use
to make it more graceful and company was eventually taken
in 1924, becoming one of the plastic zippers decoratively.
up-to-date. over by Paquin in 1954.
Biographies of Designers | 63
Sources for 1930s Fashion
Anderson Black, J., Harrison, Michael Five Centuries of American Portraying Gentlemen's Clothes
and Madge Garland The History of the Hat, 1960. Costume, 1963. of Character, 1933-1934.
A History of Fashion, 1975. The Dictionary of Costume, 1969. Tailored Wear for Gentlemen,
Howell, Georgina
Arnold, Janet In Vogue: Six Decades of Spring/Summer 1935.
Yarwood, Doreen
Patterns of Fashion 2: English Fashion, 1975. English Costume: From the Tailor’s and Outfitter’s Diary, 1937.
Women’s Dresses and Their Second Century to 1967, 1952. When Autumn Comes: Styles for
Jarvis, Anthea
Construction c. 1860-1940, Ladies’ Wear, 1933, 1934.
Brides, Wedding Clothes and
1966.
Customs 1850-1980, 1983.
Baynes, Ken, Magazines
Kelsall, Freda
and Kate Baynes, eds. Good Housekeeping, 1933,
How We Used to Live:
The Shoe Show: British Shoes 1934.
1936-1953, 1981.
since 1790, 1979.
Leach-Way Fashions, 1931-33.
La Vine, W. Robert
Boucher, Frangois Modern Weekly, 1931.
In a Glamorous Fashion, 1987.
A History of Costume in the
Sartorial Gazette: The Tailors’
West, 1965. Langley-Moore, Doris
Magazine, 1930.
Fashion through Fashion Plates,
Bradfield, Nancy To-Day: The New National
1971.
Historical Costumes of England, Weekly, 1938-1939.
1958. Laver, James
Vogue, 1933-1937.
Costume in Detail, 1968. Costume, 1963.
Weldon’s Ladies Journal,
A Concise History of Costume,
Brooke, Iris 1934-1937.
1969, revised edition 1995.
A History of English Costume, Woman’s Own, 1936-38.
1937. Lee-Potter, Charlie
Woman’s Pictorial, 1939.
Sportswear in Vogue, 1984.
Byrde, Penelope Woman’s Weekly, 1930-1934.
The Male Image: Men’s Fashion Lynham, Ruth, ed.
Woman’s World, 1937.
in Britain 1300-1970, 1979. Paris Fashion: The Great
Designers and Their Creations,
Carter, Ernestine Practical Dressmaking and
1972.
The Changing World of Fashion: Knitting Journals
1900 to the Present, 1977. Martin, Richard,
and Harold Koda Bestway: Men’s Knitted Wear,
Contini, Mila 1936, 1938.
Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in
Fashion, 1965.
the Twentieth Century, 1989. Bestway Patterns and Transfers,
Cunnington, C. Willet, All-American: A Sportswear 1933-1934.
and Phillis Cunnington Tradition, 1985. Fashions for All, 1933.
The History of Underclothes,
Mulvagh, Jane Home Fashions and Home
1951.
Vogue: History of 20th Century Fashions Pattern Service
English Women’s Clothing in the 1930-1934.
Fashion, 1988.
Present Century, 1953.
Leach’s Home Dressmaker,
Peacock, John
De Courtais, Georgine 1935.
Fashion Sketchbook 1920-1960,
Women’s Headdresses and Paton's and Baldwin’s Knitting
1977.
Hairstyles, 1973. Books, 1930, 1935.
Costume 1066 to the 1990s,
Dorner, Jane 1994. Roma’s Pattern Book, 1937.
Fashion in the Twenties and Simplicity Pattern Book, 1938.
The Chronicle of Western
Thirties, 1973.
Costume, 1991. Vogue Pattern Book, 1937, 1938,
Etherington-Smith, Meredith 20th Century Fashion, 1993. 1939.
Patou, 1983.
Men’s Fashion, 1996.
Ewing, Elizabeth Trade Journals, Catalogues, etc.
Robinson, Julian
Fur in Dress, 1981.
The Fine Art of Fashion: An Bradley’s Catalogue, Summer
Dress and Undress: A History of Illustrated History, 1989. 1938.
Women’s Underwear, 1978.
Fashion in the Thirties, 1978. Bradley’s Catalogue: Sale, Winter
Gallery of English Costume 1939.
Saint Laurent, Cecil
Weddings, 1976. Furs of Distinction, 1934-1935.
The History of Ladies’ Acknowledgments
Ginsburg, Madeleine Underwear, 1968. Laver, James
Wedding Dress 1740-1970, Beau Brummell Was Right, I would like to thank Janet
Spellor, Reggie
1981. Catalogue published by Moss Dunham, of Zero Antique Clothes
'Scoop', What a Picture!: Bros, 1960s.
The Hat: Trends and Traditions, Shop in Newcastle-under-Lyme,
Photographs of the Thirties and
1990. Lilley and Skinner: Shoe for her kindness and help, and for
Forties, 1981.
Catalogue, 1935-1936. the loan of her many costume
Hall-Duncan, Nancy Viera, Mark A. magazines.
The History of Fashion Pall Mall: Fashions for Ladies,
Hollywood Portraits: Classic Spring 1938, Autumn 1938,
Photography, 1979. I also extend my gratitude to the
Scene Stills 1929-1941, 1988. Winter 1939. Yale School of Art and Design,
Hansen, Henny Harald Wilcox, R. Turner Wrexham, Clwyd, for the use of
Perfection in Style and Quality
Costume Cavalcade, 1956. The Mode in Costume, 1942. their facilities.
Gentleman’s Wear, 1934-1935
64
John Peacock was for several years
senior costume designer for BBC
Television in London and later Head of
Costume for BBC Birmingham. He has
also worked as a fashion designer and
as a lecturer in fashion history. He is the
author of numerous standard works on
costume and fashion history.
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