Participant Handbook: Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

Participant Handbook

Sector
Leather

Sub-Sector
Goods and Garments
Occupation
Stitching
Reference ID: LSS/Q5501, Version 1.0
NSQF Level 4

Stitcher
(Goods and Garments)
Participant Handbook

Published By:

Copyright © 2016
Leather Sector Skill Council
LSSC Contact Details:
Address : Annex Building, CFTI Campus, No.65/1, GST Road, Guindy, Chennai - 600032, Tamil Nadu, India
Email : info1@leatherssc.org
Phone : 044 22502350

Disclaimer
The information contained herein has been obtained from sources reliable to LSSC. LSSC disclaims all
warranties to the accuracy, completeness or adequacy of such information. LSSC shall have no liability for
errors, omissions, or inadequacies, in the information contained herein, or for interpretations thereof.
Every effort has been made to trace the owners of the copyright material included in the book. The
publishers would be grateful for any omissions brought to their notice for acknowledgements in future
editions of the book. No entity in LSSC shall be responsible for any loss whatsoever, sustained by any person
who relies on this material. The material in this publication is copyrighted. No parts of this publication may
be reproduced, stored or distributed in any form or by any means either on paper or electronic media,
unless authorized by the LSSC.
Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

Skilling is building a better India.


If we have to move India towards
development then Skill Development
should be our mission.

Shri Narendra Modi


Prime Minister of India

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Participant Handbook

Leather Sector Skill Council

“Stitcher (Goods and Garments)” “LSS/Q5501, NSQF Level 4”

(Leather Sector Skill Council )

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

Acknowledgements
We thank the following organizations for endorsing the contents of this Participant Handbook, thus
contributing towards skilling based on the Qualification pack (QP) and national Occupational Standards
(NOSs).

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Participant Handbook

About this Book


This Participant handbook is designed to enable training for the Qualification Pack (QP) for Stitcher
(Goods and Garments) vide Reference ID: LSS/Q5501 published by LSSC.
This course encompasses all 5 National Occupational Standards (NOS) of “Stitcher (Goods and
Garments)” Qualification Pack issued by “SSC: Leather Sector Skill Council”. Each NOS is covered across
one unit/s.
This book is designed for up-grading the knowledge and skills for working as a ‘Stitcher (Goods and
Garments)’ in the Leather Industry. This book will provide the necessary knowledge and skill inputs for
an operator to work in an organized and disciplined manner by following safe working practices, good
housekeeping, effective communication, documentation and work ethics.
Upon successful completion of this course the participant will be able to:
1. Gain Knowledge about leather industry and Goods and Garments manufacturing process
2. Identify Sewing Machines, parts of sewing machines and their functions
3. Perform oiling and cleaning all type of sewing machines (before & after work)
4. Carry-out care before/during Operation
5. Identify various tools, materials and equipment required for Goods and Garments stitching
6. Defects in leather, their identification and remedies
7. Comply with safety, health and security
8. Comply with industry, regulatory and organizational requirements
9. Prepare layout of the plant and details of emergency exits, escape routes, emergency equipment
and assembly points
Key Learning Objectives for the specific NOS mark the beginning of each module. The symbols used in
this book are described below.

Symbols Used

!
Key Learning Steps Time Tips Notes Unit
Outcomes Objectives

Summary Exercise

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

Table of Content
S.No Modules and Units Page No

1. Overview on Leather Industry and Generic Skills 1

Unit 1.1 - Introduction to Leather Industry and Goods and Garments Stitching Operator 3

Unit 1.2 - Hazards, Safety and Health 22

Unit 1.3 - Workplace Skills 37

2. Carry-out Stitching Operation to Produce Leather Goods and Garments (LSS/N5501) 49

Unit 2.1 - Basic Preparation for Stitching 51

Unit 2.2 - Stitching Operation 80

3. Maintain Work Area, Tools and Machines (LSS/N8501) 111

Unit 3.1 - Maintain Work Area, Tools and Machines 113

4. Contribute to Achieving Product Quality in Stitching Operations (LSS/N5502) 125

Unit 4.1 - Quality and Standards 127

5. Maintain Health, Safety and Security at Workplace (LSS/N8601) 141

Unit 5.1 - Comply with Health, Safety and Security at Workplace 143

6. Comply with Industry, Regulatory and Organizational Requirements (LSS/N8701) 171

Unit 6.1 - Legal, Regulatory and Organizational Requirements 173

7. Employability & Entrepreneurship Skills 181

Unit 7.1 - Personal Strengths & Value Systems 185

Unit 7.2 - Digital Literacy: A Recap 199

Unit 7.3 - Money Matters 203

Unit 7.4 - Preparing for Employment & Self Employment 211

Unit 7.5 - Understanding Entrepreneurship 219

Unit 7.6 - Preparing to be an Entrepreneur 239

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Participant Handbook

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

1. Overview on Leather
Industry and Generic Skills
Unit 1.1 - Introduction to Leather Industry and Goods and
Garments Stitching Operator
Unit 1.2 - Hazards, Safety and Health
Unit 1.3 - Workplace Skills

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Participant Handbook

Key Learning Outcomes


At the end of the module, you will be able to:
1. Gain in-depth knowledge about Leather industry in India
2. Identify the factory/section you are working and your role in the section
3. Describe manufacturing leather
4. Identify hazards associated with the trade and mitigation
5. Comply with SHE guidelines and legal provisions
6. Follow workplace skills
7. Use PPE
8. Wear PPE Properly

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

UNIT 1.1: Introduction to Leather Industry and Goods and


Garments Stitching Operator

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Explain the importance of leather industry
2. Describe leather manufacturing process
3. Describe the uses of different types of leather products in India
4. List down different types of leather available
5. Describe role of a stitching operator in leather industry

1.1.1 Introduction to Leather Industry


India is the fifth-largest exporter of leather goods and accessories in the world. India is the world's
second largest producer of footwear; its production is estimated over 700 million pairs per annum. It is
one of the traditional Indian industries and is essentially located in certain states of India such as UP,
Rajasthan, MP, Punjab, Gujarat, West Bengal and Orissa, but the industry is scattered as cottage industry
in rural areas.

Ÿ India accounts for 10% of the world's leather production

Ÿ The revenue of leather industry is more than INR 81000 crore

Ÿ Leather industry employs 2.5 million people

Ÿ 24% growth projected in the next five years

Ÿ 55% of workforce below 35


The Leather Industry holds a prominent place in the Indian economy. This sector is known for its
consistency in high export earnings and it is among the top ten foreign exchange earners for the country.
Leather is one of the most widely traded commodities globally. The growth in demand for leather is
driven by the fashion industry, especially footwear. Apart from this, furniture and interior design
industries, as well as the automotive industry also demand leather. The leather industry has a place of
prominence in the Indian economy due to substantial export earnings and growth.
The leather industry is an employment intensive sector, providing job to about 2.5 million people, mostly
from the weaker sections of the society. Women employment is predominant in leather products sector
with about 30% share. India is the second largest producer of footwear and leather garments in the
world.
With 55% of the employees below 35 years of age, we employ almost 2.5 million people in the country.
With an annual turnover of over INR 73615 crore, the export of leather and leather products increased
manifold over the past decades and touched close to INR 39588 crore during 2013-14, recording a
cumulative annual growth rate of about 14.77% (5 years). Fueling up manufacturing will lead to a rise in
demand for more skilled hands on the deck. Thus, the leather sector could be one of the many industries
that can help solve India's unemployment woes. Though in general, things look good for the industry,
there are a number of challenges that still need to be tackled.

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Participant Handbook

As per a report by the National Skill Development Corporation (NSDC), although India has gradually
liberalized its cumbersome compliance and documentation policies for global leather trade, it still lags
behind most of the developed countries and even similarly placed developing countries. India's cost of
logistics, as a share of the GDP, is one of the highest in the world (12-13% of the GDP) compared to the
developed markets (below 10% of the GDP). This is reflected in the transportation cost per kilometre,
which may hamper the industry's competitiveness as the leather is export-based and has to reach a wide
retail market. The slow pace of reforms in the Indian power sector has had a specific detrimental effect
on the leather industry in the form of additional cost of power back-up.
The Leather industry is bestowed with an affluence of raw materials as India is endowed with 21% of
world cattle & buffalo and 11% of world goat & sheep population. Added to this are the strengths of
skilled manpower, innovative technology, increasing industry compliance to international
environmental standards, and the dedicated support of the allied industries.
Galloping Exports
India's leather industry has grown drastically, transforming from a mere raw material supplier to a value-
added product exporter. Today, around 50 per cent of India's leather business comes from international
trade.
At 45.3%, footwear accounted for the lion's share of leather exports, followed by leather goods with
22.2 %, and finished leather with 20.6% share in April-Jan 2015. In 2014–15 (up to January 2015),
footwear recorded the maximum increase in exports, followed by saddlery and harness, and leather
goods.
During 2014–15 (up to January 2015), the major markets for Indian leather products were Germany
(12.6%), the US (11.5%), the UK (11.5%), Italy (7.8%), Hong Kong (6.5%), France (5.7%), Spain (5.4%), the
UAE (4.2%), the Netherlands (3.6%) and China (3.0 %).
Indian Leather Industry – Overview, Export Performance and Prospects
The major production centers for leather and leather products in India are located in Tamil Nadu -
Chennai, Ambur, Ranipet, Vaniyambadi, Vellore, Pernambut, Trichy, Dindigul and Erode ; West Bengal –
Kolkata ; Uttar Pradesh – Kanpur, Agra, Noida, Saharanpur; Maharashtra – Mumbai ; Punjab – Jallandhar ;
Karnataka – Bangalore ; Andhra Pradesh - Hyderabad ; Haryana - Ambala, Gurgaon, Panchkula, Karnal
and Faridabad; Delhi; Madhya Pradesh – Dewas ; Kerala – Calicut and Ernakulam / Cochin.
Strengths of Indian leather sector

Ÿ Own raw material source – 2 billion sq ft of leather produced annually

Ÿ Some varieties of goat / calf / sheep skins command premium position

Ÿ Strong and eco-sustainable tanning base

Ÿ Modernized manufacturing units

Ÿ Trained / skilled manpower at competitive wage levels

Ÿ World-class institutional support for Design & Product Development, HRD and R & D.

Ÿ Presence of support industries like leather chemicals and finishing auxiliaries

Ÿ Presence in major markets – Long Europe experience

Ÿ Strategic location in the Asian landmass

Ÿ Emerging strengths

Ÿ Design development initiatives by institutions and individuals

Ÿ Continuous modernization and technology up-gradation

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

Ÿ Economic size of manufacturing units

Ÿ Constant human resource development programme to enhance productivity

Ÿ Increasing use of quality components

Ÿ Shorter prototype development time

Ÿ Delivery compliance

Ÿ Growing domestic market for footwear and leather articles


Highlights of Leather Product Segments
Tanning Sector
Annual production 2 billion Sq.ft. Accounts for 10% of world leather requirement. Indian colors
continuously being selected at the MODEUROPE Congress.
Footwear Sector
Second largest footwear producer after China. Annual Production 2065 million pairs. Huge domestic
retail market 1950 million pairs (95%) are sold in domestic market. Footwear export accounts for 42.83%
share in India's total leather & leather products export. The Footwear product mix Gents 54%, Ladies
37% and Children 9%.
Leather Garments Sector
Second largest producer with annual production capacity of 16 million pieces. Third largest global
exporter. Accounts for 10.09% share of India's total leather export.
Leather Goods & Accessories Sector including Saddlery & Harness – Fifth largest global exporter. Annual
production capacity – 63 million pieces of leather articles, 52 million pairs of Industrial gloves & 12.50
million pieces of Harness & Saddlery items. Accounts for 25.34% share of India's total export.
Current Scenario
Export of Leather and Leather products for the period April to January 2012-13 touched US$ 4070.21 mn
as against the performance of US$ 4122.17 million in the corresponding period of 2011-12, recording a
marginal decline of 1.26%.
Major Markets
The major markets for Indian Leather & Leather Products are Germany with a share of 12.92%, USA
11.32%, U.K. 11.20%, Italy 8.73%, France 5.99%, Hong Kong 7.98%, Spain 5.21%, Netherlands 3.66%,
China 2.60%, Denmark 1.51%, UAE 3.05%, Belgium 1.62%.
These 12 countries together accounts for nearly 76% of India's total leather & leather products
export.
European Union accounts for 57% of India's total export of leather and leather products.
India's Export of leather & leather products to different countries – 5 years.
Future Outlook
The Government of India had identified the Leather Sector as a Focus Sector in the Indian Foreign Trade
Policy in view of its immense potential for export growth prospects and employment generation.
Accordingly, the Government is also implementing various Special Focus Initiatives under the Foreign
Trade Policy for the growth of leather sector. With the implementation of various industrial
developmental programmes as well as export promotional activities; and keeping in view the past
performance, and industry's inherent strengths of skilled manpower, innovative technology, increasing
industry compliance to international environmental standards, and dedicated support of the allied
industries, the Indian leather industry aims to augment the production, thereby enhance export, and
resultantly create additional employment opportunities.

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Participant Handbook

1.1.2 Leather
Leather is a durable and flexible material created by the tanning of animal rawhide and skin, often cattle
hide.

Fig 1.1.1 Raw Leather Fig 1.1.2 Grain Leather Fig 1.1.3 Leather Swatches

1.1.2.1 Grain Structure


The structure of leather, also known as Grain structure is depicted below:

Grain
Full
Grain

Junction of Top
Grain & Corium Grain

Corium

Genuine
Leather
(Suede)

Flesh

Fig 1.1.4 Grain Structure

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

Leather is tanned and finished on the grain side to have a smooth rich surface. Leather, which is tanned
and finished on the flesh side, is called suede. Various types of finished leathers, which are used for
making leather products, are described below:
Natural Grain Finish
The leathers are finished with grain intact. The leathers should have good grain quality without deep
scars or looseness.

Fig 1.1.5 Natural Grain Finish


Full Aniline Finish
The leathers are dyed into a colour close to the required colour. Two or three coats of transparent finish
with or without dye is applied which serves as a protection to the surface. Binders can be subjected to
high temperature by friction to give a brilliant glossy look to the leather surface. These types of finishes
enhance the natural appearance of the surface.

Fig 1.1.6 Full Aniline Finish


Semi - Aniline Finish
Semi-aniline leathers contain small amount of pigments along with the dye to give coloured finish.
The pigments used in the finish can cover minor scratches and superficial scars. They present a natural
grain surface without too much of loading of the grain.

Fig 1.1.7 Semi Aniline Finish

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Participant Handbook

Pigment Finish
Pigment finished leathers are those types of finished leathers with relatively high amount of covering
material. The covering of defects is very good in this finish.

Fig 1.1.8 Pigment Finish

Imitation Grain Finish


These types of leathers are made from relatively poor quality hides. The hide surface has a number of
deep scars and cannot be finished to a uniform look without modifications. So, the grain is removed by
snuffing. Special resin binders are used to reduce the looseness of the grain layer and heavy finish coat
is applied to get a uniform finished surface, which is embossed.

Fig 1.1.9 Imitation Grain Finish

Corrected Grain Finish


The crust is buffed to remove the top grain pattern and treated with a filling type of resin, which makes
the grain layer tight. It is then embossed to stimulate an attractive grain surface. Special effects such as
brush off effect can be obtained by using suitable binders and colouring mixes.

Fig 1.1.10 Corrected Grain Finish

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

Printed Finish
These leathers are finished similar to corrected grain leathers, but with deeper print on the surface by
embossing with suitable heat and pressure. A variety of print patterns such as crocodile print, lizard print,
etc. can be effected.

Fig 1.1.11 Printed Finish


Split Surface Finish
Split leathers cannot hold the finish coating well due to its coarse and fibre network Special techniques
can be used to apply finish coatings on the split surface to upgrade the performance similar to finished
leathers.

Fig 1.1.12 Split Surface Finish

Nubuck Finish
The leathers are finished with velvet like surface on the grain layer. Since the fibres in the grain layer are
compact and short, the nap is fine and smooth and the textured surface will show a difference in shading
when run by the hand over it.

Fig 1.1.13 Nubuck Finish

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Participant Handbook

Oil Pull-up Finish


Special oils are applied on the surface of the leather with or without transparent finish coatings. The oils
provide protection as well as a unique look to the surface. Oil pull-ups are made from full grain leathers
with application of oil. The oil can migrate when pressure is applied on the surface and come back when
the pressure is released. Thus, the surface will show two-tone effect when pressed or pulled.

Fig 1.1.14 Oil Pull-up Finish


Antique Finish
The leathers are applied with special wax to the buffed grain surface. The wax can melt and migrate
under frictional heat. Because of this, when the surface is rubbed, the colour of the rubbed portion
changes which does not reverse immediately. This shows an antique effect.

Fig 1.1.15 Antique finish


Characteristics of leathers
Each type of leather is suited to a range of uses, according to its unique characteristics. Choosing the right
one for the job is easy, once you know what to look for.

1.1.2.2 Leather Properties


Ÿ Leather has high tensile strength – Ÿ Resistant to dry and wet abrasion - Wear
Resistance to tear, flexing, and puncture
Ÿ Resistant to fire
Ÿ Thermostatic – Warm in winter and cool
in summer Ÿ Resistant to fungi

Ÿ Mouldable – Retain shape Ÿ Resistance to chemical attack

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Stitcher (Goods and Garments)

1.1.3 Leather Products


Leather can be used to produce a wide range of products.
Leather Shoes
Leather shoes consist of leather uppers and PVC soles used as a walking shoe.

Fig 1.1.16 Leather Shoes

Leather Jackets
A leather jacket resists cold. It is usually worn on other clothes. They are manufactured from tanned
hides of animals.

Fig 1.1.17 Leather Jackets

Leather Belts
A belt is usually made up of flexible band or strap. It’s normally made out of leather or heavy cloth, and
worn around the waist. The belts are used to hold the trousers or other apparels of clothing.

Fig 1.1.18 Leather Belt

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Participant Handbook

Leather Wallets
A wallet is a flat case which is utilized to have our personal items like money, cards, ID proofs (pan card,
voter ID card, etc.), photos, visiting cards. Wallets are made out of leather or fabrics, and they are of
pocket sized.

Fig 1.1.19 Leather Wallets

Leather Saddle
It is used for the trendy look as well as for comfort (Horse saddle or Bicycle saddle).

Fig 1.1.20 Leather Saddle


Leather Bean Bag
It is a bag filled with small round pieces of material and used as a soft chair.

Fig 1.1.21 Leather Bean Bag

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