TDTS - TRAIL #2

TRANSDANUBE TRAVEL STORIES

Returning to the Last Danube

Trail # 2, Nature and mankind Eszter Buchert coordinator /Zsófia Joó copywriter

Content

Acknowledgement................................................................................................................................................................................ 1

Introduction ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

I. The Last Danube ................................................................................................................................................................................ 3

New proximity ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................4

Returning to nature and to our own selves ................................................................................................................................................................................ 6

The Last Danube on two wheels......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 7

Donaubegegnungen – Danubian encounters ......................................................................................................................................................................... 7

II. Jewels of the Last Danube ......................................................................................................................................................... 9

Clash of forces – The Iron Gates ......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 10

A true nature show – Persina and the Danube Delta ........................................................................................................................................................ 10

III. The possibility of sustainable nature tourism ............................................................................................................ 10

IV. APPENDIX – Destinations & Points of Interest .......................................................................................................... 12

THE HEART OF THE DANUBE ............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 12

CLASH OF FORCES – THE IRON GATES ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 14

A TRUE NATURE SHOW – PERSINA AND THE DANUBE DELTA ................................................................................................................................ 15

Acknowledgement
The narrative to Transdanube Travel Stories Route 2. Nature and mankind, Danube
Transnational Programme could not have been created without the enthusiastic work carried
out by the following contributors. We sincerely thank the enormous added value and all the
efforts invested to Matej Marušić DANUBEPARKS office manager Ivan Svetozarevic Tourism
manager, Manifesto NGO Daniela Karakasheva Persina Nature Park PR expert Gabriela Cretu,
councillor, project manager, Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve Authority Jovan Erakovic
Developer of EV6, cyclist, cycling guide, blogger

Introduction
In the beginning was the Danube. Being Europe’s most significant river, it nourished, protected,
enriched and connected different groups of people as early as in prehistoric times, later
providing bonds between countries and nations. It meant vital freshwater, a food source rich in
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fish, as well as a refuge when needed, with fertile lands, fruit-laden orchards and shady groves
providing building materials along its shore. Stretching along 2880 kilometres and connecting
east with west, cutting across the greatest of empires, determining the everyday life of
innumerable regions it has always been a symbol of grandiosity or even infinity for the old
continent. Bonaparte Napoleon quite worthily called the Danube as „Le roi des fleuves de
l’Europe”, that is “the king of Europe’s rivers”.

The Danube, for millions living along it, means a source of living, a homeland, traditions, cool
shores when on the move, the reed aloud with singing birds, the silence and tranquillity of
getting away from the noise of everyday life. For millennia, the river has been an ever-inspiring
muse for artists, a secure route for merchants, and the origins of an improbably diverse range of
fish dishes for the lovers of gastronomy. For whoever has been in some sort of contact with the
Danube, it will ultimately bear a unique, personal meaning and a multitude of bonds.

Besides its cultural, economic and historic importance, its exceptional, unparalleled natural
values have also remained inevitable. The Danube is a thousand-faced, eternal, continuously
renewing entity, a sovereign, inevitable, uncontrollable self that has brutal power to transform
rocks, earth and sand to its own shape. Much more than just a water body, it encompasses
mountain rapids, lowland river stretches with floodlands, hundreds of islands and thousands of
plant and animal species. Its waters are home to the great sturgeon, one of the largest river
fishes of the Earth, its shores are where Europe’s oldest gallery forests are found, its delta is
where huge colonies of pelicans nest, and its oxbows serve as hunting grounds for white egrets
and black storks.

Although the river system of the Danube, despite substantial human interference, still preserves
traces of intact, pure, ancient nature in certain sections, providing the last refuge for dozens of
protected species, yet it has become weightless as a tourism attraction. For many years it has
not been listed among the most wanted destinations of Europe, not to mention the whole
world, although it has quite huge potential.

Proceeding along the direction it flows, both the Danube’s upper and middle sections attract
tourists and those longing for active recreation with unrivalled natural treasures and invaluable
habitats. It is enough to look around at the German source of the river where the streams Breg
and Brigach meet near Donaueschingen, to find the magical slopes of the Black Forest and
somewhat further to be attracted by the Danube Riparian Forest between Neuburg and
Ingolstadt for some birdwatching.

Crossing the border towards Austria the dramatic Donauschlinge bend is there to be admired;
to the south from Vienna Donau-Auen National Park offers the possibility to find out about the
valuable floodplains protected with great enthusiasm, while in the Hungarian section there is
Szigetköz famous for its islands, shoals and side-branches, the Danube-bend separating the
masses of Börzsöny and Visegrádi-mountains, or Gemenc, the adventurous, mostly forest-
covered floodplain, allowing the visitor to submerge in the highly diverse realm of the river.

The true adventure, however, meant by a legendary, pristine wilderness unknown for many of
us, follows only further ahead, in the lower Danube sections across the Hungarian-Croatian-
Serbian border.

The enormous green oasis stretching along the middle river length section hides a true
paradise for water birds and fishes, composed of highly variable vegetation including marshes,
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floodplain forests and wet meadows constantly interchanging along with flood dynamics in
Béda-Karapancsa – Kopacki rit and Gornje Podunavlje. The immense monument of the Iron
Gates, on the other hand, opens up a breath-taking memento for visitors about the
continuously competing forces of man versus nature, and thus, carries a dubious message.
Persina, with an island realm hardly explored by tourists, and the Danube Delta, the majestic
finale of the river’s nearly 3000 km long journey, with a nature show going on in its 21-thousand-
hectare fantastic wetland paradise both amaze the visitor with the astonishing richness and
diversity, vivid but globally disappearing essence of Europe’s last, almost untouched wilderness.

Why has it been that both local and European tourists overlook this rich and amazing natural
world, is a complex issue, the reasons calling for comprehensive investigation. Nevertheless, an
important aspect is the fact that people of the modern age seek amusement almost exclusively
in exotic destinations, luxury hotels, teaming cities and at parties lasting till the morning comes,
whilst their vision dissolutely passes over the river flowing just a step away, offering green and
blue adventures, slow and quiet recreation and regeneration showing a way out from a
technocratic crisis. Although they certainly do know about the existence of the Danube, they do
not particularly know much about it. Especially not about the Last Danube.

I. The Last Danube

The lower section of the Danube, i.e. the reach stretching from the Hungarian-Serbian-Croatian
border to the delta has just those treasures that are sought after by so many in remote Asian
mountains or hot African sand: the promise of being able to return and reconnect to untouched
nature and our own selves.

The Last Danube, thus has a twofold meaning: it is the terminal section of the massive river
system connecting ten countries on the one hand, and the final remnants of the majestic
wetland wilderness once stretching across half the continent on the other. Seen from a west-
European perspective it is only here that more or less intact conditions resembling wild, natural
status can today be experienced, found hardly anywhere along the middle and upper sections
due to human activity.

This is a romantic, pristine world which simply must be seen by people whose hustling city lives
have gone dull and thus long for spiritual balance, tranquillity and regeneration.

A journey along the Last Danube is nothing but crossing borders. Not only in a geographic
sense, because here, by leaving behind the modern mainstream tourism model, travellers cross
their own inside boundaries. The journey already starts when the vacation is being planned:
when, instead of the decadent, empty attractions of consumer society you decide to explore the
water wilderness, when you opt for regional means of travel rather than round-the-world flights,
when you are browsing rural tourist accommodations but not five-star hotels, when your choice
is walking boots and a backpack rather than a trolley bag, you have already crossed your own
engrained boundaries. The minute details, adventures, experiences and impulses that cannot
be part of 21st century everyday real life are all beyond the comfort zone of urban people. It is
through these experiences that one can step out from the world that actually evoked alienation
and the lust to move.

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The Last Danube is natural, human-scale matter encouraging one to slow down. It confronts
the globalised, mass-produced, non-stop plastic reality with hidden, rare, special experiences,
the simple enjoyment of everyday life of the past. For people accustomed to never-ending rush
and balancing between various assignments, it means a luxury today to be able to comfortably
and immersively explore freedom, balance, and the sight, fragrance and touch of natural
treasures. For the burnt-out, apathetic people of the internet age it is the rediscovery of
connection to nature and wilderness that can mean the essence of the long-wanted but often
never achieved mental well-being.

However, to be able to wholly understand the possibilities offered by this invaluable region, it is
necessary to scrutinize the relationship between man – as the motivator in tourism – and the
river, the recreational and amusement requirements of 21st century people, as well as their
desire to return to nature.

New proximity

In the beginning was the Danube – it is not without reason that this rephrased biblical
connotation was included in our introduction. The wildlife and history of the region has always
been fundamentally determined by the majestic river. All forms of life, all the species and all the
habitats have originated from the river itself. It was not without reason that prehistoric humans
settled in the accessible neighbourhood: the Danube meant protection, food source and
drinking water, a secure living and a reliable waterway, as well as it served a natural defence line
in cases of natural disasters or attacks.

As civilisation developed, this tight, indispensable, elemental connection has remained quite
until recent times, although it has also changed substantially. With agriculture and
domesticated animal husbandry appearing, with mills being driven using the power of water,
with trade, warfare and architecture developing significantly, all routes lead towards the river.
The elemental processes of nature, however, were quite unpredictable, leading to the demand
to transform the river and floodplain so as to meet human needs.

Man and river used to coexist in harmony for centuries, people showing humility towards
nature, but technical development along with the expanding “nothing is ever enough” desire
for possession, and the interventions by alien powers changed all this.

As a result of the constantly increasing closeness of connection between man and river, urban
people of the 21st century living along the Danube got too close to it, and, contradictorily, at the
same time as far from it as never before. A view from the hillside overlooking the waves was
not enough any longer; whoever could afford it, claimed a piece of the river itself. Houses, villas,
bars, docks and industrial structures engulfed areas along the riverbed meter by meter, quite
until the buildings started to display man’s superiority directly on the water rather than just
directly on the shore. As this false idea has brought about a series of problems in the form of
flooded and flushed away homes, spoiled existences, flooded roads and railway lines, man
introduced even more radical, more drastic measures. People wanted to prove that the last
word was theirs.

Through the creation of river regulation objects such as the sophisticated system of dams,
dykes, sluices and power stations, through the dramatic reduction of floodplains and through
forcing the Danube into a concrete bed, the river was degraded to a simple urban construction.
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Wilderness, including the majority of native wildlife was eradicated, and the natural status that
had characterised the land for millions of years was wiped out. The remaining ransacked and
raped water bodies are nothing more than just canals in many of the cases. Although the
colours, ripples and sounds of the water are still pleasing to the eye and the ear, these sections
are seldom attractive for strolling along their shores or for picnicking. The multitude of laws and
regulations within cities tend to be biased for commerce, mass tourism and urban
development.

The river, having faded to just a shadow of its former majestic self, does not any longer mean
any recreational possibility or natural value for many people, but instead it is just a water body
which, by having to be crossed, only impedes urban traffic. There is no more space on its built-
up shores, along its international waterways, besides its barge pontoons where one could
encounter simple enjoyment such as hanging a foot into the gentle water or simply just sitting
around.

If an average person living in a city along the Danube is asked what kind of connection he/she
has with the river, it is quite likely that a neutral answer will be given. The river is one element of
the city but nothing more, without any particular attraction not to mention any natural
connotation. It is not a substantial factor, not a program element, not a source of amusement or
recreation. If the same person was told about the magical wilderness found along the lower
stretch of the Danube, about the unparalleled natural beauty, he/she would most probably
surprised to hear such an account, as the Danube’s natural and tourism potential is almost
entirely unknown even for people living along the upper sections.

New proximity, too has a twofold meaning. On the one hand it illuminates the alienation
resulting from mankind’s boisterous river regulating and utilizing activities, but, on the other it
also presents a more positive future perspective. It lights up the possibility in which burnt out
people can find their way back to nature and realise the urging importance of preserving the
last pockets of wilderness.

It is essential, thus, that the over-worked, over-stressed Homo urbanus (the urban man) seeking
slow-down and regeneration can recreate their connections with the life-giving river. The lack of
such a connection should not only be seen as a negative feature, however. Moreover, it offers an
opportunity to re-establish and redefine this new approach and new connection on different
grounds. Instead of the exploitation-focused, suppressive approach a more sustainable, more
humble attitude can gain space in which man admits that preserving the last wilderness of the
Last Danube goes hand in hand with a human-scale, sustainable type of recreation in nature.
The Last Danube is an exquisite location and last opportunity for the new type of consciousness,
a novel approach using which it is still possible in Europe to return to the “biotic highway”, that
intertwines the life, culture, economy and future of the entire region. An ideal state in which as
many people can find their adventure and recreation in the riparian wilderness as possible – at
the same time guaranteeing the survival and protection of habitats, iconic locations and still
undiscovered meanders of the lower river sections – can only be achieved through a humble,
respectful way of reconnecting with the wildlife and natural treasures of the river.

Tourist attractions of the Last Danube such as the vast, continuous, rich floodplains stretching
across political borders like Béda and Karapancsa in Hungary, Kopacki rit in Croatia, Gornje
Podunavje in Serbia, or the breath-taking geological formations of the Iron Gates, the infinite
island world and captivating wildlife of the Danube Delta are all unique but vulnerable values.
Nevertheless, if they are visited focusing on points of interest that can be sustainably accessed
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by means of local community transportation, on active recreation programs, local

accommodation and restaurants, there will be an answer to urban people’s unspoken
questions: how to return to their own self, how to raise the connection with the Earth and
nature to a new level, how to achieve peace and slow-down, how to restore mental well-being.

Returning to nature and to our own selves

In recent decades it has become increasingly obvious that social and economic changes
(scientific-technological development, broadening human vision, accelerating consumer
lifestyle) often have a detrimental effect of man’s physical health and mental well-being. At the
same time, the ancient wisdom appeared as a novelty or even revolutionary discovery
supported by research results: the key to resolving this harmful effect is to return to nature, to
encounter nature. Fresh air inspires both physical and intellectual activity; the sounds, forms,
scents and colours of nature have tranquillizing, regenerative, energizing effects, and
experiencing nature positively influence both body and soul.
Giving this a thought one quickly realizes that this is evident: man is a part of nature rather than
an outside observer. Our fundamental togetherness with nature having existed for millions of
years started to drastically fade away only in the past centuries. As a result of alienation from
nature, and due to the reduction of encounters with the shrinking remnants of wildlife, today
way too many people live with intense stress, experience a reduction in concentration, creativity
and motivation, and from time to time face various mental or physical disorders. The capitalist
treadmill of our modern, accelerated and globalised world focusing on earning, career and
acquisition can lead to general burning out, anxiety, and in severe cases even mental disorders
which are all observed generally in every nation, social class or demographic group. The
exaggerated pace hardly leaves any time for relaxation and regeneration, thus no wonder less
and less people are aware what these two terms mean in a true and holistic sense.

It is a fact though, that by strolling outdoors your stress level drops, you are recharged with new
energies and you are leaving behind the treadmill of everyday life. You feel yourself fresher and
more energetic, your creativity rises high. You become more relaxed and balanced, you relate to
your environment in a more positive way. You feel much more present in the moments you live
than any other time, since you exist in your natural environment.

Luckily, more and more urban people tend to consciously seek such a reconnection with nature.
Re-living, re-discovering or re-establishing the ancient bond between man and nature is
something wanted not only by people with “dark green” mentality, but instead it appears as a
general social demand conveying still unexploited possibilities and substantial tourism
potential.

More and more people seek the possibilities to escape and slow down, but often without the
faintest idea which way to start. While an ever-increasing number of exotic nature tourism
destinations are offered at an accelerated pace globally, the wetland wilderness stretching
along the lower section of Europe’s second biggest river is still not shown on the maps. People
still do not have a clue how intriguing possibilities do await them along the Last Danube!

Hiking, pilgrimage, cycling or kayaking in Europe’s last wetland wilderness are, from every
aspect, bold counterpoints to the empty, rushing weekdays. Instead of accepting the gush of
artificial, bustling impulses, the lower Danube section offers an unparalleled opportunity to
wholly, harmonically and quietly experience unique and unrepeatable natural encounters.
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It allows for simple, maybe insignificant yet irreplaceable experiences such as leisurely enjoying
a simple, traditional fish dish, climbing a hill, hanging your feet in the cool water of the river,
counting the clouds passing above while laying at the rivershore, restfully listening to the sound
of the waves and the splashing of the stream. The Last Danube offers you the chance to slow
down, relax and experience nature with all your senses.

The Last Danube on two wheels

It is in walking boots, sometimes paddling in a boat or kayak that the reduced tempo, a slower
but more contentful encounter, maybe considered as luxury these days, can be most fully
experienced. That is, on foot, on water, and just as well on a bicycle! Although conquering the
Last Danube on two wheels deserves serious determination and adventurousness, anyone who
does undertake will be generously compensated by the adventures. The EuroVelo bicycle route
is worth trying not only for the ever-growing number of flashpackers (i.e. travellers in their 30s
and 40s who were born to travel and thus actively seek out authentic encounters and have the
budget to experience the best every destination has to offer), but also for families or, in some
river sections, for the older age group.

The bicycle is a wonderful, noble and sustainable tool that deserves to be used in worthy
surroundings such as the beautiful landscapes of the Last Danube.

Cyclers have a much greater opportunity to listen, absorb and feel than those travelling by car.
Cycling is about slowness, about rolling lightly through the green, vivid places. It is about the
constant diligent connection of impressions and distances, about interweaving precious
memories. It means taking the time to enjoy a coffee at a local bar, booking accommodation in
a small bed and breakfast place of the village you pass, trying the local culinary curiosities,
resting for a few hours in nature, letting to be enchanted by the river’s smells, voices and simple
splendours.

That does require peace and time, for the Danube is a huge, but slow and quiet mass of energy.
It is necessary to adjust to that, praising the slow flow instead of fighting it. That is why it is in
fact impossible to really travel along the river in a motorised package deal offered by the
conveyor belt of tourism: on fast-conquered kilometres, a few frames of travel are lost every now
and then. For those seeking the whole meaning of the many Donaubegegnungen, the bicycle
can be the key to adventure.

Donaubegegnungen – Danubian encounters

One could not find a better place than the lower Danube section for near-nature encounters on
the rivershore tempting for active recreation, allowing one to live through natural forces and
processes. As opposed to the array of fully booked hotels and overcrowded resort beaches,
meeting the living river and its wildlife means such a curiosity which more and more people will
choose so as to find out about, discover and experience the Last Danube.

However, each encounter is different: the last Danube is unique, singular and unrepeatable!
Probably this is why every single rendezvous is so valuable. The traveller soon finds out that the
river will never be the same again.

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This is more than just the succession of seasons; this is the magic of the wilderness changing,
evolving and transforming even today, having a merciless presence, intertwining everything.
The seemingly endless reed beds, the disappearing and reappearing islets, the sandy and
gravelly grounds in the outskirts of settlements appear as a new picture every time, offering
new sights, new revelations and new sounds for every visitor. No matter the traveller returns to
the very same spot year after year, what he/she can be sure of instead of the permanence of
stone and concrete of big cities is just the ever-changing playfulness of nature.

But how could the small pixel be static if the big picture of the Last Danube seen from far above
shows a variable picture? From a nature perspective the lower river section is at least as diverse
as it is rich, this being true from the aspects of economy, culture, art and ethnicity as well.

This wetland wilderness that was quite well saved from anthropogenic influence, full with rare
plant and animal species, offering a wide array of habitats and experience could justly be
perceived as a grandiose symphony performed by a mighty orchestra. The monumental
musical piece pulsating with life tells a tale of rapid streams finding their way down the
mountain, of a young river winding between rocks and cutting through mountains, of mind-
blowing depths and pure, elemental force rushing across artificial dams and sluices. It tells a
tale of the cool atmosphere of ancient, shady trees weeping above the waves, the endless sunlit
peace of seas of reed aloud with birdsong, of the motionless charm of swampy oxbows,
hundreds of animals and plants.

The symphony of the Danube’s lower reach tells about the last wetland wilderness which, if
given the possibility, charms its audience. Charms the visitors with its power, liberates them
from the treadmill of dull weekdays, flying them back to a simpler, more honest world of the
past in which man used to live in nature as part of nature, in symbiosis with the life-giving river.

Undoubtedly, not even the lower reaches of the river have remained completely untouched.
Traces of human impact appear almost everywhere. At some places, especially in the
neighbourhood of cities beside the river, the Danube flows along monstrous docks, industrial
plants or agricultural lands. The remaining, valuable habitats are sometimes replaced by hybrid
tree plantations, roads or crumbling ruins.

At the same time, the Last Danube, as we move towards its estuary, sings about ever changing
roaring floods with different sounds, delicious crops of fertile lands along the riverside, the fish
of slow-flowing bends, and all the innumerable values that the river has to this day provided.

Focusing more on the comparison of the Last Danube’s tales to nature’s music – a monumental
orchestral concert –, visitors there can hear an immersive masterpiece with their spiritual ears,
and can experience it with all their senses. Proceeding downstream along the course, three
movements will unfold, each piece being complete in its entirety yet differing characteristically
and together merging into a perfect symphony. These melodies perfectly complement each
other, at the same time presenting different aspects of this blue and green giant pulsating with
life. After the quiet, mysterious and softer andante of the heart of the Danube, the Iron Gates
abruptly changes to a rapid, swift presto voice, to then reach the mighty Delta and become
ultimately dissolved in a flashy and ornate, superior menuetto climax, reaching towards infinity.

If, however, the majestic river is analysed with the eyes of the naturalist, one will find similarly
diverse, yet obviously cohesive habitats along its terminal section. After the adventurous
marshes, forests and floodplain meadows of Kopacki rit, often mentioned as the heart of the
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Danube, it is the Iron Gates region that demands attention with its high-rising cliffs of the
gorges separating the Carpathian Basin from the Balkan Peninsula, followed by a gradually
slowing river section restrained by hydroelectric power stations, reaching Persina first, then
approaching the Black Sea with a fan of branches creating millions of small islands, and finally
releasing its load at the scene of a true plant and animal show of the estuary area.

Representing unrepeatable, unique diversity as far as the eye can see, the Last Danube really is
the alpha and omega of the last remaining European wetland habitats.

II. Jewels of the Last Danube

For the traveller, for man seeking the way back to nature there are three main destinations
displaying, through the succession of three astonishing lessons, the immense power and
significance of the river. While the Heart of the Danube presents the highly demonstrative
master example of how man has co-existed with nature for centuries, the Iron Gates illustrates
the constant, incomprehensibly forceful clash of water and rocks, the two elemental materials.
Finally, the Danube Delta region reveals in its most complete form the former natural state, the
world before man, which has mostly been lost by today.

The Last Danube, thus, talks to everyone. It flashes a slower, more peaceful world, showing
nature’s untouched face, a serious challenger to mass tourism centres regarding attraction,
sights and adventures. It talks about moderateness instead of uncontrolled consumption,
human scale instead of globalism, slow procession instead of rapidity, and finding the way back
to one’s own self instead of chasing new stimuli until exhaustion.

The heart of the Danube – Gemenc - Béda-Karapancsa – Kopački rit - Gornje Podunavlje
Almost right at the geometric halfway point of Danube’s nearly 3000 km long journey, around
the entrance to the middle section of the river, lies a vast, continuous floodplain. It is shared by
three countries: in Hungary Croatia and Serbia.

As a result of slow and considerate tourism development processes during recent years, not
fading the authenticity of the land in any way, the Heart of the Danube can now be experienced
by walking, cycling, or by taking a small boat ride. Owing to the relatively high number of public
transport options and rural tourist accommodation possibilities, travellers wishing to return to
nature can experience the stunning wildlife of Kopački rit and Gornje Podunavlje comfortably,
at their own pace, accompanied by local leaders, whilst also learning about local, ancient,
natural crafts and traditions.

The previous agricultural landscape started to transform at around the time of the Ottoman
reign resulting in today’s extensive, pristine floodplains and forests that are difficult to pass and
make out. Kopács meadow (Kopački rit), the real natural treasure of the region, today strictly
protected, still bears the untouched, ancient appearance of the Last Danube. One of Europe’s
best-preserved natural floodplains promises an adventure, a journey through time, that is
impossible to find in the selfish mazes of mass tourism. Visitors can choose to immerse
themselves in the world of seemingly endless reeds by walking, cycling or even on water, with a
promise of colourful, exciting, unique experiences for both individual travellers and family
holidaymakers.

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Clash of forces – The Iron Gates

The magnitude of the most famous Danubian gorges is simply impossible to explain – it has to
be witnessed, experienced in person. The Iron Gates are the most amazing, most picturesque
section of the Lower Danube. At the same time, they are the most obvious evidence of the
infinite clash of powers that has been going on between water and rock in order for water to be
able to carve a way for itself. With austere majesty and steep walls, towering cliffs line the
riverbed on both sides, involuntarily making one bow before this majestic masterpiece of the
creator nature. Today the Romanian side of the gorge constitutes the Iron Gates Natural Park,
whereas the Serbian part constitutes the Djerdap National Park. Just a few decades ago, with
the construction of the Romanian-Yugoslavian hydroelectric power plant in the 70’s and 80’s,
the Danube was "tamed", the water level rose and today it is possible to enjoy the view of the
beautiful artificial Djerdap Lake. The grand project had a devastating impact on the local fauna
and flora.

Losing quite much of its natural values, the Danube played a huge price for the rigorous
regulation it had been subject to. Nevertheless, still there are substantial natural and artificial
sights, in addition to the breath-taking geographic conditions of the gorge and the enormous
size of the hydroelectric power station, which make this mysterious region a noteworthy sight
or even a must-see destination.

A true nature show – Persina and the Danube Delta

The Last Danube, as if only intentionally, reserves its dizzying finale to its ultimate point, the
majestic delta where the huge island world embraced by the spreading river forking to millions
of branches follows, making up a nature show, the estuary of the Danube. It is here that the
teaming and diverse essence of the wetland wilderness, still untouched at places, can be
admired in its entirety.

Few are aware, though, that not only one but two special destinations are here to explore, both
abounding in wild islands and inviting people for adventures. For those interested in the
backpacker-cycling type of tourism, Persina in Bulgaria, a lesser-known but dazzling section of
the river, inhabited by a rich variety of protected birds and fish species, is definitely worth the
attention.

Although as the river finally reaches the coast of the Black Sea, the show reaches its highpoint.
The Danube Delta is a spectacular place, still being built, with abundant biodiversity, vast
expense of water and reed, a world of peace and mystery behind which life takes a multitude of
forms. It is truly the long-awaited high peak of a monumental orchestra concert where all the
sounds of previous themes collide into one big final symphony celebrating the majesty of
nature. Here, the Danube preserves a world untouched by the rhythm of the modern world,
where time flows according to other rules, inspiring calm and serenity. An unmissable sensation
for the slow-down visitors.

III. The possibility of sustainable nature tourism

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There is a lot of potential in making the natural treasures of the Last Danube available to hikers
and holidaymakers who are receptive to them, and the creation of large-scale plans and
concepts are, accordingly, truly justified. More important, however, is the chance, the
exceptional, one-off occasion that is now still offered by the lower reaches of the Danube –
maybe sadly for the last time.
Worldwide we are seeing the harmful effects of uncharacteristic mass tourism and conveyor-
like holiday-making, typically leaving huge ecological footprint. It is not evident that the
deterrent history of destinations that have lost their uniqueness, originality and character,
having become empty through uniformed infrastructures and plastic cliché, will necessarily
repeat itself along the Last Danube. That is because there is another, more and more sought-
after way which can offer exceptional, real, meaningful recreation, even for larger masses,
relying on the preservation of the original, near-natural state of the up until now largely
unknown, undeveloped region.
The dynamically growing trends of ecotourism, slow living and mindfulness create perfect
grounds and framework for the tourism positioning of natural treasures along the Last Danube.
Supporting small-scale or family-level sustainable tourism relying on local resources, local
transport and accommodation, local tourism and catering small enterprises can attract those
interested without making the region’s most outstanding destinations fall victim to the dark
side of modern mass tourism.
To re-consider and strengthen our relationship with nature in an equal partner manner, along
with building a sustainable nature tourism concept would be essential not only for the physical
and mental well-being of people. This responsible attitude is our only chance to prevent the
rampant exploitation of the region.

The danger is real. If, at the beginnings, large-scale service and hotel investments and
infrastructure developments are allowed, the wilderness destinations that are still untouched
and accessible only after meticulous planning, making up the soul and essence of the Last
Danube, will soon disappear. The new proximity, relying on respect and humility, means a
gentle, caring type of tourism that protects natural values.

Making the wildlife and natural treasures of the Last Danube accessible also provides an
excellent opportunity to shape tourists’ attitude. As opposed to the currently typical approach
wanting to instantly see, live and experience everything in all their splendour, at the touch of a
button, it is high time to present an alternative based on patience, humility and acceptance.

Nature is not a robot, not a zoo, and certainly not a static exhibition. The dazzling snapshots
seen on social media platforms, brochures and program booklets are the result of many days,
weeks or months of work, thus it is not realistic to expect that every single visitor can experience
the same images on a single visit while trying to avoid mud, insects, vegetation and bad
weather.

With proper education, however, it is possible to emphasise the uniqueness and unrepeatability
of natural encounters and the grandiosity of the Last Danube’s thousands of faces and constant
changes, or even to stimulate demand for them. In a world where everyone seeks something
special or unparalleled, the value of individual, personal, intimate encounters and experiences
could quite as well mean the essence of tourism in the whole region. Slow-paced tourism that
supports inner harmony and regeneration, enabling true understanding and full immersion
could finally bring people closer to achieving their own psychological well-being.

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The Last Danube talks to everyone, tells her stories to everyone. Each time she tells different
things, in different ways, and that is where her irresistible appeal lies.

IV. APPENDIX – Destinations & Points of Interest

THE HEART OF THE DANUBE

A pristine wetland, centre of undulating reeds and vibrant natural life: the unique, romantic
world of Kopački rit (HR)
White Water-Lily Boardwalk & Interactive Exhibition
Here, curious nature pilgrims eager to explore the wetland wilderness have several options.
They can follow educational boards on the promenade with pictures and descriptions of plants,
animals and characteristics of the wetland habitat, bringing them closer to understanding the
rich wetland eco-system.

Tourist dock Sakadaš

However, for those who wish to experience the true and breath-taking wilderness of Kopački rit,
it is best to do so by water. At the port of Sakadaš it is possible to board a silent electric tourist
boat and appreciate the very Heart of the Danube. On this trip visitors will slowly glide through
the "New Canal", pass by islands with a large cormorant colony. Bare trees full of cormorant
nests are one of the most recognizable scenes of Kopački rit.

Cycling in Nature Park Kopački rit

A beautiful, 30 km long biking circle starts at Visitor Centre Kopački rit, positioned among the
greenest waters and forests in the whole Slavonia region of Croatia.

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Tikveš Castle Complex

It would be a shame not to visit Kopački rit and not to hear the historical story of this area,
especially Tikveš Castle. Among locals, this castle is known as "Tito's castle" because of the well-
known Yugoslavian president Josip Broz commonly known as Tito. According to the stories, this
was one of Tito's favourite hunting grounds, and considering the cult of personality that was
created around Tito, the locals were proud of Tito's visits to this area.

Educational trail “Stari brijest“ (the Old Elm)

Not far away from the castle, visitors find the Educational trail "The Old Elm" which is named
after the Old Elm tree of 300 years. This respectable lifetime is much longer than any other elm
tree in this forest and all other forests around.

Village Kopačevo
Kopačevo, located on the edge of the Kopački rit Nature Park, is turning into the happiest place
in Baranja in the middle of September. In this period the traditional Fishermen's Days are held
there, the most visited September tourist event in the area.

Etno-Village Karanac
Karanac exudes the atmosphere of some ancient, past times in which each house had its own
story that was slowly passed on from generation to generation, keeping the originality and
lifestyle away from the hustle and bustle of the city environment. For visitors looking for slow
experiences and sustainable solutions, it is good to eat here, it is possible to drive in the original
country carriage and sleep in authentically decorated rooms.

Gornje Podunavlje (SRB)

The protected area of “Gornje Podunavlje”, “Bagremara”, “Obedska bara”, “Koviljsko-
Petrovaradinski rit” and “Deliblatska peščara”, are witnesses of intact natural beauties and
confirmation of our ability to preserve natural values for future generations. A tourist visit to the
protected area is a temporary escape from the urban environment which provides an
opportunity for active and quality stay in nature.

Monsters of the Heart of the Danube: the Busó Parade of European fame (HU)
People wanting to discover the unique natural treasures of the lower part of the river and their
cautiously protected habitats, will not regret interrupting their journey following rare natural
treasures and make a detour across the border to Hungary for a day or two. They will experience
such special tourist attraction which is impossible to find anywhere in the neighbourhood.

Busó Parade – Busó tradition – Busó Yard

The Busó Parade or 'Busójárás', a world-famous folk tradition dating back to the 18th century of
the Šokac people in Mohács, is a unique spectacle not to be missed.According to legend, the
Šokac men had abandoned Mohács to the moorland of Mohács Island to avoid the plunder of
the Ottoman troops. Returning to town at night, they crossed the Danube by boat, and, dressed
in terrifying masks and making socking noise with instruments, drove the Ottoman troops from
town.Tourists visiting Mohács at other times of the year still do not have to miss the experience
of the Busó Parade, because a cultural centre, Busóudvar, introduces the centuries-old carnival
tradition, giving a taste of its unique atmosphere and providing insight into local craftsmen’s
activities related to the event the whole year.

Kanizsai Dorottya Museum

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The ethnographic and local history museum of Mohács and its surroundings offer a broad
perspective on the region and its people, as well as serve as the primal institution of the
Slavonian minority in Hungary.

Mohács National Memorial

A national memorial one simply must experience! On the 29th August 1526, a tragic day in
Hungarian history, the outnumbered Christian troops faced and were defeated by the invading
Ottoman army in a fateful battle. In an area of seven hectares, visitors today step on sacred
ground. The memorial park is a living history book written in pain and dignity, with vivid yet
modest imagination of symbols carved in wood and stone and supported by modern
technology – such as VR films in the visitor centre – in a harmonic way. An interactive exhibition
introduces the battle of Mohács and the fate of the Hungarian nation.

Kölked – White Stork Museum

The inhabitants of Kölked, located south of Mohács, have been living together with the storks
for hundreds of years. Lying at the border of the floodplain, the village has always been a secure
white stork nesting and feeding place. The White Stork Museum, unique in the European
perspective, can be found and simply has to be visited here.

Boki-Duna – Fishermen's outdoor exhibition

A perfect tourist highlight off the beaten path. This beautiful water area centuries ago was an
overdeveloped bend of the Danube, which is threaded and now lives on as a backwater. At the
fishing show, visitors jump back 500 years into the past and look into an ancient aquatic world.

CLASH OF FORCES – THE IRON GATES

Prehistoric time machine - Lepenski Vir

Lepenski Vir, a Paleolithic site on the banks of the Danube, is a proof that the local culture
developed social relations, architecture and art more than six thousand years ago.

Golubac Fortress
The remains of the medieval town of Golubac are located on the right bank of the Danube, in a
very inaccessible place that represents the entrance to the Djerdap Gorge from the west.

Miraculous Monastery Tumane

Travelling along the shores of the Last Danube in the area of the gorges, a unique natural
tunnel, the Boljetin river canyon can be visited.

Famous Boljetin
From the bridge at the upstream part of the Boljetin gorge, the path continues straight on the
old asphalt road along the river. The road climbs slowly under the beautiful vegetation towards
Boljetin hill. From the canyon visitors can choose to follow a well-maintained, slightly more
demanding path to the viewpoint Greben, from where they can behold all the power and
mystery of the Danube.

Veliki Strbac hiking trail

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The trail leads through the most attractive part of National Park Djerdap and ends at Veliki
Strbac. At an altitude of 768 m Veliki Strbac is the highest peak of the Miroc mountain and from
here there is a beautiful view of the Danube at its narrowest part.

Viewpoint Ploce
Ploce is a viewpoint in National Park Djerdap. Viewpoint Ploce represents a smooth space just
above the canyon Mali Kazan and a limestone flat under peak Veliki Štrbac. From Ploce there is
a unique view on Danube and this place will introduce you to the gorge Veliki Kazan.

A TRUE NATURE SHOW – PERSINA AND THE DANUBE DELTA

The "Undiscovered Land" of the Lower Danube, Persina Nature Park

The northern part of Bulgaria and in particular the Danube river valley in the central northern
part is very often an unknown territory for tourists. This is a vast interesting and hidden oasis of
the world for wildlife. Untouched by human activity, biodiversity and human coexistence are
intertwined, as well as a rich cultural heritage and remnants of a historical past.
Viewed from the river bank, they create a feeling of beauty and harmony, but stepping on them
provides a different sensation. A wild island is sacred ground with pristine nature, where time is
in the hands of nature and does not depend on people. Of course, not all islands along the river
are accessible and hospitable. Many of them resemble a flooded forest, with many climbing
plants, hiding sheltered marshes, difficult terrain.

Walking and cycling in the Kaykusha marsh

The wetland in the Kaykusha Protected Area is located right on the southern border of its
territory and includes the most amazing marsh that calls out for a visit.

Cycling in the neighbourhood

It is a unique experience to explore the area on bicycle. Before reaching Ruse, it is a must to
make a turn into Rusenski Lom Nature Park. The river Rusenski Lom is the last significant right
tributary of the Danube before it meets (the still distant) waters of the Black Sea. Between the
12th and the 14th centuries, the remoteness of its canyon attracted monks, and several cave
monasteries, as well as a number of churches and hermitages, was cut in its rocky sides.

The highpoint of the Show of the Danube – The Danube Delta

Here, the Danube preserves a world untouched by the rhythm of the modern world, where time
flows according to other rules, inspiring calm and serenity. The natural paradise of the Danube
Delta stretches at the mouth of the Danube into the Black Sea, where the river ends its long
journey of 2,860 km, from its source in the Black Forest Mountains of Germany. The visitor is
presented with the most varied images: limitless reed expanses, lakes, channels, islands,
tropical-looking forests with luxuriant vegetation and sand dunes, natural landscapes that
looked as taken from fantastic stories.

Letea and Caraorman forests

The oldest nature reserve in Romania, under protection since 1930, situated in the northern part
of the Danube Delta is a highlight of any holiday. Its forests having developed among sand
dunes and shaped as 10–250 m wide strips (hasmac), are composed mainly of oak, grey oak,
white poplar, swamp ash, white lime tree, elm.

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The Strictly Protected Area Sărături – Murighiol

Located near Murighiol village, this area is addressed mainly, to those passionate for
birdwatching.

Wild beaches of the Black Sea coast

One of the most beautiful beaches of the Black Sea are here: wide, long areas with fine sand,
calm sea with shallow waters, as well as areas covered in vegetation and shells, wild locations
with beautiful views, offering visitors relaxation and peace. The coastal areas of tourist interest
are situated in Sulina, Sf. Gheorghe, Gura Portiței and Vadu-Corbu-Midia, very beautiful areas
with many leisure possibilities.

Danube Delta by Boat on Channels

Entering this complicated system of water routes gives travellers the feeling of complete
separation from the world and experiencing a completely virgin nature. Visitors will enter
another world, where beauty will leave you breathless. It is a place where nature has the final
word and man is just a guest.

The Danube Delta Eco-Tourism Museum Centre

The museum centre is located near the town promenade along Danube, and together with a
museum of art and the museum of ethnography, the Muslim mosque and other heritage
buildings in its neighbourhood, form the cultural centre of Tulcea, known as the town forming
the gates of the Danube Delta.

Sfântu Gheorghe
A picturesque village along the oldest Danube branch, it is located in the place where the sea
meets the Danube. Tourist may enjoy an authentic fisherman village experience, admire the
village scenery and the natural landscape of the area where the water of the Danube meets the
Black Sea, creating brackish water habitats supporting many birds attracted by the abundance
of food. Spectacular agglomerations of birds are formed on the opposite side too, on Sahalin
sand bank.

Mila 23
A typical fishermen’s village in the Danube Delta. It is the main hub of ecotourism in the Delta
and one of the main starting points in non-motorised tour boats (with canotca, a combination
between a traditional lotca and a canoe). It is an opportunity to participate in a traditional
fishing activity (pescaturim), and to learn more about the Lipovan culture.

Măcin Mountains National Park “The tales of Măcin”

While in the delta, travellers have to visit the oldest mountains in Romania. The Măcin
Mountains are spectacular not by height, but especially due the numerous historical sites and
archaeological vestiges, to the vast natural treasure existing here including geological, botanical
and zoological values. Măcinului Mountains National Park includes a real exhibition of nature:
steppe at the base of the mountains, oak forests at medium heights, and on the tops bushes or
rock formations whose shapes have been sculpted by rain and wind. An eloquent example is
the Sphinx from the Măcin Mountains.

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