Woodworking Crafts May 2016

Issue 13 May 2016
HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING TURNING RESTORATION DIY
Weave a
willow fence
with Peter Wood
PROJECTS
Salt & pepper container
Turned dinner plate
Wooden doormat
Sun lounger
FEATURE:
The Ouse
& Adur
Rivers Trust
SHAKER STYLE TABLE BATHROOM CABINET FRETWORK PANEL

Pallet wine rack, DIY consumables, Drawbored table
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Community
42 67
19
In the
May issue...
COMMUNITY POWER WOODWORKING HAND WOODWORKING
5 Inspiration – coffee tables 19 Turned dinner plate 13 Insight – French polishing
14 News & events 31 Weaving a willow fence
26 The spindle moulder part 2
16 Book reviews
36 Plans 4 you – sun lounger 46 Shaker candle stand
22 Hints, Tips & Jigs
81 Wooden doormat
38 Kit & Tools 52 Evolution of a router table
42 Bankside story –
57 Porch designs
UPCYCLING & RESTORATION
River restoration
6 Oak coffee table
55 Reader Group Test – 59 Fretwork panel
Narex rasps
70 Woodland ways – 63 Omni ICE dust cyclone Woodwork on the web
woodland ownership To find more great projects, tests
and techniques like
67 Bathroom cabinet
78 Q&A – expert advice these, visit our fantastic
website at: www.
88 Next issue 73 Salt & pepper container woodworkersinstitute.com
2 www.woodworkersinstitute.com
WWC_13_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER_bdABSD.indd 2 18/03/2016 14:45

Community
Welcome
to the May issue
of Woodworking Crafts
Garden and outdoor continued…
ello everyone and welcome to the May issue of
H Woodworking Crafts. Still hoping for a decent

summer, we continue the garden and outdoor
theme a bit with some projects to enhance your garden
and property. We also have several simpler projects for the
‘great indoors’, which I think you will find fun and easy to
make and add a bit of style. No excuses for not getting busy
making in the shed!
The feature on the Ouse and Arun Rivers Trust is a rather
sideways look at the significance of wood and woodland
in the landscape. The state of our rivers is a matter of great
concern and yet regarded as a rather ‘Cinderella’ activity
with volunteers having to restore them to a more natural
state with minimal cost to the country as a whole. Yet we
depend on rivers, brooks, streams and good drainage to
maintain the land, our houses and our living and to support
a healthy green environment. Interestingly, it doesn’t have
to involve concrete and steel fabrications but using natural
materials instead, such as willow to create slower more
meandering flows of water.
46
59
Anthony Bailey, Editor
Email: [email protected]
Woodworking Crafts issue 13 3
WWC_13_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER_bdABSD.indd 3 18/03/2016 14:45

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Community
COPYRIGHT: COPRID/SHUTTERSTOCK
Le : A very retro style
coffee with a ladder
slat shelf underneath
in a typically medium
browny finish
COPYRIGHT: FOCALPOINT/SHUTTERSTOCK
Below: A distressed old

style appearance that has
The curved skirt and tapered character, rather than
legs help to make this design perfec on of finish
look less 'clumpy'
Design
SHUTTERSTOCK
COPYRIGHT: VLADIMIRSAZONOV/
Inspiration
Coffee tables are a modern idea
and yet by taking a range of styles
it is still possible to go from a
traditional antique ‘look’ to very
modern indeed. It is a case of
the designer refining the shape,
COPYRIGHT: BIMPASTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK
so the short legs and frame don’t
appear out of proportion. In fact
the longer, lower and flatter looking
A technical challenge incorpora ng a
a coffee table is, can influence the laminated bent frame and wavy legs
whole scale of a room setting with
seating around it.
COPYRIGHT: DOUBLEPHOTOSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK
SHUTTERSTOCK
COPYRIGHT: SANDRATSKYDIMITRIY/
A more tradi onal inspired

design in a mahogany finish
The very blocky architectural look is helped suitable for a more conserva ve
by having a glass top to add interest room se ng
WWC_13_5_INSPIRATION_COFFEE_TABLES_bdABSD.indd 5 18/03/2016 14:47

Upcycling & restoration
Oak coffee table

Louise Biggs restores
a beautiful oak
coffee table
his coffee table is one piece the drawer fronts, a piece was fitted Hand-cut dovetails
T of a suite of furniture made
from N orth American white oak
( quercus alba) . The clients wanted two
with the grain running vertically. This
was echoed on the back rail and both
pieces were fitted with sliding dovetails.
I started by putting face marks on the
outer faces of the drawer components
top front-end of the sides and the
large drawers, which they could easily top front and back. Then, 12 mm in
reach the back of. Wi th a dovetailed
box forming the drawer carcass, this
article will endeavour to show two
2 These were formed using a dovetail
cutter on the router table.
from each end ( the thickness of the
components) I sq uared a line round
the timber. The end of one drawer side
different ways to cut the dovetails
and how to fit the drawer runners. 3 O n the end frames an inner rail
was fitted, with a lapped dovetail
to take the drawer runners and a
was marked out for the position and
width of the tails and the lines sq uared
across the end grain.
Main construction g
groove p
cut to take the expansion
1 H aving prepared the timber the

back and side rails were j oined to
top
buttons that will secure the top.
5 U sing a sliding bevel set to a
pitch of 1: 7 , the lines of the tails
the legs with mortise and tenon j oints.
The front rail was tenoned into the 4 The top was formed with sections
of timber of eq ual width, turned to
were marked.
front legs and the front of the side rails.

The centre rail was j oined to the back
rail using a sliding dovetail. At the front,
alternate the direction of the growth
rings. This helped keep the top of the
table fl at. The ends sections were then
6 Ke eping the top edges together,
the other three ends were marked
from the first end so the tails are all
instead of showing end grain between fitted to form a breadboard top. positioned the same. I scored the
1 2 3
WWC_13_6_10_OAK_COFFEE_TABLE_LB_bdABLBSD.indd 6 14/03/2016 09:36

4 5 6
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOUISE BIGGS
7 8
What you will need

12 mm line across the tail sockets and
then cut down the side of each tail on
the waste side of the line.
10 The outer tail sockets were
trimmed to the three score
lines and the shoulder line checked
Table saw
Planer/thicknesser
Mortiser – or mortise chisel by hand
for sq uare. The sides of the tails were Router table and router
7 The end tail sockets were cut out

sq uare and by cutting at an angle
then trimmed and sq uared. Straight cutter
Dovetail cutter
I removed as much waste as possible.
The remaining three ends of the two
sides were cut to this stage.
11 To mark the pins, the ends of
the sides were, in turn, lined up
on the corresponding corners of the
Tenon saw
Screwdriver
Drill press – or hand drill
front and back sections and the tails Drill bits and countersink
8 N ext, I chiselled out a small

amount of the remaining waste,
back to the 12 mm line. This creates a
marked using a sharp knife. The same
procedures were followed to cut out
the line of the pins and the bulk of the
Sash and ‘G’ cramps
Squares – various sizes
Chisels – various sizes
clean shoulder line to work to when waste. The pin sockets were trimmed Planes – various sizes
trimming out the tail sockets. up as before. O nce the four sections of Dovetail/gents saw
pins were cut the drawer carcass was Sliding bevel
9 Wor king from both sides and

keeping the chisel upright the
remaining waste was cleared, making
trial fitted together and any further
trimming up was carried out for a close
fit, but not so tight that when the glue
Mallet or a dovetail jig
PPE – eye and breathing protection,
plus gloves
sure not to undercut the shoulder line. is applied the joi nts are too tight.
9 10 11

1250 790
548 500
119 120 90
370 18
50 1120 50
FRONT ELEVATION SIDE SECTION

Scale 1 to 12 Scale 1 to 12
1193
7
50 30
12
PLAN SECTION
716 Scale 1 to 12 120 696
20
46
12
80
340
SIDE SECTION
726 125 Scale 1 to 12
660
12
40
527 500
PLAN SECTION DETAIL

Scale 1 to 12
35 162
20 80
50 31
50 550 550 50
20
Top re-inforced with breadboard ends
Drawer boxes with through

dovetails front and back
Inner rail to carry drawer runners
(not shown) with lapped dovetails
let into legs front and back
Side and back rails grooved to take buttons
Vertical grain cover strip fitted to

front end of drawer divider using
a sliding dovetail
Drawer rail notched out around leg
with tenons into leg and side rail

12 13 14
15 16 17
Machine cut dovetails

There is more than one type of dovetail
j ig on the market, but I purchased
13 The remaining fingers were
pushed up tight together, then
the resulting gap was divided evenly to
thickness and cut a set of trial pins,
the finger assembly was then moved
in further to the ji g to reduce the siz e
the L eigh ji g some years ago opting obtain the space between the two pairs of the pins to make a good fit. The
for this one as it could take a 6 10mm of fingers, which were then locked cutter was moved from left to right
wide section. You can also buy a in position. The remaining fingers to so the waste was removed in stages
mortise and tenon attachment, finger the right were locked off and act as to reduce the amount of breakout.
join t templates and their own Isoloc a support for the router. The guide-
join t templates ( to make curvy joi nts)
to work on the j ig, making it more
versatile. The jig comes with a very
finger assembly was then turned back
over to the straight fingers, set to the
correct measurement ( this depends
17 O nce all the pins were cut,
the drawer carcass was fitted
together. Wi th the drawer carcass
comprehensive instruction manual on the thickness of your timber) and formed, a groove was cut, stopped in
to take you through the stages in far locked in position. Wi th the drawer from each end, around the bottom
more depth than I can cover here. side in the front clamp, with the inside edge to take the bottom panel.
On e key thing is the guide-finger face away from the ji g and tight under
assembly has two rows of fingers. the guide-fingers, the thickness of the
The straight side, when used with timber was marked on the drawer side. Leigh dovetail jig
a dovetail cutter will cut the tails. Available in three sizes – 12in at
£279.96, 18in at £369.96 and 24in
On the other side, the fingers are
angled and combined with a straight
cutter, will cut the pins. The scales
14 I then adju sted the depth of the
cutter to the line. The cutter
was guided around the guide-fingers
at £424.96. Attachments start from
£227.95 up to £564.96. A range
using the correct siz e guide bush until of cutters, guide bushes and collet
denote timber thicknesses and it is best
reducers are available. Visit www.
to have some test pieces available to all four sets of tails were cut.
axminster.co.uk for more details.
trial the fit of the dovetails and make
any necessary adju stments.
15 The guide-finger assembly was
then turned back to the side
12 Ha ving clamped the necessary

spacer boards in place – these
act as a waste support piece behind
with the angled fingers and the cutter
changed for a straight fl ute. To cut the
pins I worked with the outer face of
the drawer components – the guide- the drawer front and back away from
finger assembly was fitted in the pin the ji g. The thickness of the timber was
mode ( the angled finger side) , which again marked and the cutter depth set.
allows you to adju st the guide-fingers.
The two outer fingers were kept 3 mm
in from each edge. 16 I set the measure gauge one
division above the req uired
Leigh dovetail jig

PROS AND CONS
Two drawer carcases, machine cut

18 19 – top, hand-cut – bottom
Hand-cut dovetails
• These require few tools,
which you probably have in
your workshop already.
• They become time consuming
if cutting many sets for banks
of drawers.
• They are economical if cutting just
two drawers – as in this project.
• With careful marking out and
cutting, they are reasonably
straightforward.
20 21 Machine cut dovetails

•The biggest factor is that the jigs
Drawer runners fitted to the drawer sides in the are expensive.
18 The full extension metal runners

are available in various types
same way. •The more sets of dovetails you cut,
the more economical they become.
and siz es. To choose the siz e you
need, work out the length you can
install within the carcass. The second
20 U sing the blocks, the runners
were all fitted to the same
height and parallel to each other,
• For this project the set up time and
trial cuts can land up taking longer
than cutting by hand.
measurement will tell you how far they drop or raise one end of one runner
will extend. The position of the runner and the drawer runners would bind.
was worked out, usually ju st above The positions checked, the other D anish oil. H aving applied each coat,
centre. I then cut a piece of MD F to screws were fitted to both parts of the excess was wiped off after about
space the runner, in this case from the the runners. 2 0 minutes and was left for 2 4 hours
bottom edge of the side and centre before being lightly cut back and the
rails. I fitted a screw at the back and
front only, this allowed for any slight
adju stments if req uired.
21 The outer front was fitted
with a minimal clearance
gap. H aving previously drilled and
next coat applied. Wi th three coats
the frame was positioned on the top
and the expansion buttons fitted.
countersunk the inner front the outer The coffee table was then ready to
19 With the inner part of the

runner locked in position, a
measurement was taken for the second
front was clamped in position and
the screws fitted from behind.
be delivered to jo in the other pieces
in the suite of furniture. ■
block, an allowance was made for a Conclusion

Louise Biggs
clearance gap, to position this part on
the drawer side. Wi th the block cut to
siz e the inner part of the runners were
22 U sing a cabinet scraper and
abrasives, the frame and top
were cleaned up and finished with
Having completed her
City and Guilds, Louise
trained for a further
four years at the London
College of Furniture. She joined a
London firm working for the top
antique dealers and interior designers
in London, before starting her own
business designing and making
bespoke furniture and restoring
furniture.
Web: www.anthemion-furniture.co.uk
22
10

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INCLUSIVE
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012_WWC_013.indd 12 3/22/16 10:12 AM

Hand woodworking
Insight
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER SEFTON
French polishing
Peter Seđon’s students learn
the art of French polishing
ost of the work undertaken Courses Top: The underside of the Pembroke
M in the Furniture School

is newly-designed and is
constructed contemporary furniture,
The short course students bring
their own pieces in from home or
fresh from auction houses. We have
table in the process of being stripped
Above: Cleaning up with abranet,
prior to polishing
but for a few Saturdays each year the practice panels for students to work
workshop is dedicated to furniture on, but tackling a moulded and fully- up with course notes and handouts
restoration. It is a great thing to be able functioning piece of furniture is much covering the key points and materials.
to see the contrast of our new furniture more demanding and ultimately a very B ut this is very much a practical hands-
against the old pieces and antiq ues. satisfying proje ct. on course with B ob demonstrating
My long-term friend and commercial each step of the way and pointing
French polisher, B ob J ones, teaches out the different processes used
our specialist French polishing course, on each student’ s proje ct, from the
and has many decades of experience. range of pieces they have brought in
B ob would usually undertake the themselves.
finishing work that passed through my The transformation that occurs
commercial workshops, whether it had over the two days is amaz ing from the
a traditional French polish or a sprayed very tired but interesting pieces the
lacq uer finish and I have known him students have bought in from home, to
almost 3 0 years. the newly loved items that return again
W hen our courses run, we set up refreshed and with a new lease of life.■
the workshop with covers over the
usually clean workbenches, ready for
the messy jo b of stripping, sanding Peter Se on
and cleaning up the old furniture. Peter Sefton is a well-
This preparation work is usually known furniture maker
completed on the first of the two who runs courses in fine
Saturdays, leaving the next class for the woodworking, teaching
cleaner refinishing work. The second and mentoring students at the Peter
Saturday of the course is a combination Sefton Furniture School. He also
of grain filling, staining and colouring owns Wood Workers Workshop and
up before starting the French he is a Liveryman of the Worshipful
polishing process. B ob does a great Company of Furniture Makers.
job discussing the options available Web: www.peterseftonfurniture
and the best materials for the j ob; it’ s school.com
Bob demonstra ng the stripping process a large subje ct area and so it’ s backed
WWC_13_13_INSIGHT_PS_bdABPSSD.indd 13 18/03/2016 14:57

Community
NEWS &
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF TRACY DORMAN

EVENTS
All the latest events and news
from the world of woodworking...
Finishing a
landscape jigsaw The beautiful
River Faughan
in Faughan Valley
NORTHEASTWILDLIFE.CO.UK
NORTHEASTWILDLIFE.CO.UK
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.
he Wood land Trust has an to the north and K illaloo Wo od,
T exceptional opportunity to fit

the missing and final pieces
of a landscape ji gsaw in the beautiful
an enchanting and ancient bluebell
woodland, to the south.
The proposed acq uisition, of three
Faughan Va lley, not far from the city pockets of land, would fulfil the Trust’ s
of D erry/Lon donderry. dream to directly link all three woods;
The conservation charity is appealing with a fourth member of the family,
for support to acq uire strategically- B urntollet Wo od, ju st a stone’ s throw The
Th Faughan
F h V Valley
ll iis h
home tto th
the
placed land, with new planting set to away. In all, the Trust’ s Faughan Va lley vulnerable red squirrel
offer a glorious stretch of woodland for landholding would increase to a hearty
walkers, and a continuous safe haven 6 4 hectares of woodland and greenery. wooded landscape and an extended
for the valley’ s wild inhabitants. P atrick C regg, director of the haunt for the valley’ s precious wildlife,
He re, the Trust already cares for a Wood land Trust, explains: “ We ’ ve which includes red sq uirrels and otters.
mosaic of woodland. At the heart of dreamt of this opportunity since “ U ltimately, we want to give everyone
the group and still in its infancy is the Trust’ s earliest days in N orthern – local people and visitors – the chance
B rackfield Wood – a First Wor ld Wa r Ireland. And now, we’ ve an unmissable to explore this incredibly beautiful part
C entenary Wood , planted as a uniq ue opportunity to add the missing pieces of the country, with its rolling hills,
and lasting tribute to those who lost to this stunning landscape ji gsaw. pockets of ancient woodland and the
lives and loved ones during the war. “ O ur ambition is to connect the stunning River Faughan. N ew access
This gem nestles between O aks Wood existing woods creating a robust and pathways would open up miles of
woodland and riverside walks – and all
on the doorstep of the city.”
N orthern Ireland ranks badly as
the least-wooded country in the U K
and indeed one of the sparsest in
E urope, with only 8% woodland cover
compared to the E uropean average
of 44% . And with pressures such as
development and tree disease, every
opportunity to protect and bolster this
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ROSANNA BALLENTINE
fragile resource is truly precious.

The Wood land Trust has a target to
raise at least £ 2 0,000 through a public
appeal. D onations will contribute to an
overall proje ct cost of £ 1 million. To
play a part, please call 0330 333 3300
or visit www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/
faughan.
Contact: The Woodland Trust

Web: www.woodlandtrust.org.uk
The enchanting Killaloo bluebell wood
WWC_13_14_15_NEWS_&_EVENTS_bdAB.indd 14 14/03/2016 09:38

Community
Part of the disused Montgomery
Canal on a frosty Winter day
Weird and 2016 Devon County Show

Wonderful Wood The Devon County
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.DEVONCOUNTYSHOW.CO.UK

Show promises to be ‘an
This year’s Weird and Wonderful Wood will entertainment extravaganza’,
be taking place over the weekend of 14–15 with the Shetland Pony
May. Demonstrations at the event will include Grand National, Bolddog
furniture making, musical instrument making, Lings motocross stunt team,
displays by traditional fletchers and bowyers, Titan the Robot, Channel
chainsaw carving, wheel wright, hurdle making, 5’s David Kennard and his
wood turning, pole lathe turning, sign writing, farmyard tales, and much
labyrinth making, flute making as well as more! There will also
coracle making and traditional gypsy caravan be a crafts and gardens
displays. As well as demonstrations, there will pavilion to walk around,
be workshops available for both adults and as well as woodland walks
children, free to all, including archery, willow and fairground fun. The
weaving, spoon making, withy work, paper organisers have certainly packed in a lot
making, gypsy flower making and more! for the weekend, so be sure to check out
their website for more information.
When: 14–15 May, 2016
Where: Haughley Park, Wetherden, Nr When: 19–21 May, 2016
Stowmarket, Suffolk, IP14 3JY Where: Devon County Show, Westpoint,
Web: www.weirdandwonderfulwood.co.uk Clyst St Mary, Exeter, Devon, EX5 1DJ
Web: www.devoncountyshow.co.uk
Reader email – Woodburners

Hi Anthony, cricketer, as I would probably have
In Issue 9 you mention using use some pads, every now and then I
pine (Pinus sylvestris) logs on miscue and don’t they just fly!
your woodburner. We have two Keep up the good work,
woodburners, a small Petit Godan Wilf Milton.
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

and a huge 13KW Godan. When we
had two very large, dodgy pine trees Hi Wilf,
cut down by an English tree surgeon, I take it your query is that pine
he said emphatically not to try and is not considered a safe choice?
use the logs on woodburners as I’m not sure if I’ve read anything
resins would clog up the chimney adverse about burning pine and
linings, even after 10 years! We have clogged up flue linings. I’ve just
flue liners to comply with the rules finished reading a book about wood
here (same as the UK). We use 99% burning by Lars Myttel – Norwegian
oak (Quercus robur) and use about Wood. The Scandinavians burn a lot
4–5 cords a year (1 cord = 3x cubic of wood which includes birch (Betula
A woodburner creates brittle
metres). These logs come in 1m pendula), oak and spruce (Picea
tarry deposits
lengths and have to be chainsawn. abies). Clogged linings or damage
I have to sweep every two months don’t really figure in the book. soot compared to the brittle tarring
to make sure of no problems. I use They burn whatever they can crop. in a liner that can break free when
a maul (marlin) and a couple of axes My own experience was that at the sweeping. It is really important to run
for splitting. I wish I had been a beginning of this winter after having woodburners at optimum efficiency
swept the flue lining myself, a lot of to get maximum output and
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ANTHONY BAILEY
tarry deposits, not soot, fell down minimum pollution. This can often
the chimney and for a couple of be too hot in slightly milder weather
burnings there was a bit of ‘activity’ but closing vents isn’t good, better to
in the chimney as any remaining put larger lumps of wood in the grate
loose material caught in concertina to slow the fire down, so oxygen still
folds of the lining conflagrated. After reaches the flame and gases from the
that my woodburner behaved itself wood are emitted and burnt.
perfectly, so much so that I mustn’t P.S. I’m not an expert aimer when
forget to sweep again soon. An open I’m splitting logs, we all get some
fire presents more danger despite miscues but it works most of the
There’s a skill to hitting and splitting it’s low energy efficiency, because time!
perfectly, gained with practice a rough brick lining catches lots of The Editor
WWC_13_14_15_NEWS_&_EVENTS_bdAB.indd 15 18/03/2016 14:58

Community
BOOK REVIEWS
This month, Vanessa Sutcliffe looks
at three very different books
Hammer Head: The Making of a Carpenter

by Nina MacLaughlin
This wonderful read follows a tired B oston jou rnalist on her jou rney of
transformation to become a carpenter. In a rich tapestry of descriptive language,
N ina weaves the story of her experience, intertwining the people she meets
along the way and problems she encounters, with the history and background
of the carpentry trade. Wh ole paragraphs are dedicated to the invention of the
tape measure, or the hammer museum in Alaska, allowing the reader to become
informed as well as enthralled by this bold tale of change. She even throws in
the odd fl urry of romance as she explores her move from a fl irtatious office
environment to a trade where her daily uniform consists of paint-stained je ans,
sports bras and tied-back hair. The reader exalts with N ina as she celebrates
her new skills and overcomes her fears of failure. H aving studied E nglish and ISBN: 9780393239133
C lassics at college, N ina provides q uotes from O vid’ s Metamorphoses alongside Price: $25.95
Eis enberg’s E xperiences of W omen W orking C onstruction to illustrate her tale. Web: www.norton.com
A delightful book, eq ually at home in the workshop as on the bedside table.
Pyrography: 18 Step-By-Step Projects to Make

by Bob Neill
An inspiring book with easily achievable pyrography proje cts, thanks to the clear
layout and succinctly-worded steps. The images give both close-up detail as well as
shots of the finished items in context. E ach proje ct includes a drawing or template
for the pyrography work and comprehensive Materials list as well as relevant
Tips. There is a useful Techniq ues section at the back covering the technical side
of pyrography. A basic tool kit lists all of the essential pieces of kit for carrying
out the proje cts. The reader is shown how to make nibs and methods for making
different marks with these nibs, including adding decorative edges to your work.
L ettering styles are explored, as well as the use of colour. There is a section on
finishing your work in order to protect it and bring out the best q ualities of the ISBN: 9781784941611
wood and the pyrography detail. Safety information is given on the final page, Price: £5.99
with a complete summary of all precautions that should be taken. Web: www.gmcbooks.com
The Stained Glass Garden: Projects & Patterns

by George W Shannon and Pat Torlen
For the garden enthusiast, this colourful book will provide ample ideas for
stained glass pieces to further adorn even the most vibrant garden. Two different
techniq ues for stained glass crafting are described: the copper foil techniq ue and
the 3 D lead came method. For the uninitiated, it’ s not very clear when looking
through the proje cts, which one employs which techniq ue. H owever, the C ontents
section does show the distinction between the proje cts in terms of the techniq ue
used. Although there are sections on B asic Techniq ues and more detailed
descriptions further on of the two techniq ues, I would suggest that this is a book
for a crafter who already possesses a little experience in stained glass work.
The instructions for each proje ct seem rather wordy and seem in need of step-
by-step images to break the text up and make it more readable. E ach proje ct has ISBN: 9781895569575
N otes and H elpful H ints, as well as Materials and Tools lists. A grid-based pattern is Price: £14.99
also included which can easily be copied and scaled up. The finished proje cts are Web: www.gmcbooks.com
beautiful and this book certainly invites thought and inspiration for the garden.
WWC_13_16_BOOK_REVIEWS_bdABSD.indd 16 14/03/2016 15:46

017_WWC_013.indd 17 3/18/16 11:49 AM
018_WWC_013.indd 18 3/21/16 4:31 PM
Power woodworking
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MIKE MAHONEY

Dinner
plate
Mike Mahoney shows you how to turn

your own wooden dinner plate from
a piece of quartersawn timber Mike Mahoney
Since plates get thoroughly washed Mike is primarily
Things you will need… daily they will absorb water then shrink known for his bowls
16mm bowl gouge when they dry. Being quartersawn and has been a
10mm bowl gouge will keep them flat. This makes them professional turner for
12mm shear scraping bowl gouge easier to use. You will also want to use most of his adult life.
10mm spindle gouge a wood that is durable for such use. He is passionate about educating
Any soft hardwood will work – maple woodturners and the public about
(Acer campestre), sycamore (Acer woodturning.
have been eating off wooden plates pseudoplatanus), walnut (Juglans Email:
I for more than a decade. There’s no

other material more durable and
beautiful for the purpose of serving
regia), fruit wood, beech (Fagus
sylvatica), birch (Betula pendula),
etc. I see a lot of sycamore in my town.
[email protected]
Web: www.bowlmakerinc.com
our meals than wood. You can serve I only use it for its quartersawn beauty,
any matter of food on them. You can which makes it perfect for plates.
carve a juicy steak, and serve foods Typically plates average 280 x 25mm
that stain wood without any ill effects. in size. For this particular project I
Now if you can’t see your work with previously cut out of the log 305 x
knife marks and stains on it, then wood 32mm slabs and sticker them to dry.
is not for you. When I see this patina After approximately 120 days of drying
I see history and love because, if you time, I cut the slabs circular and
are like me, most of the business of let them dry for another 120 days.
the house is done over the daily meal. They are then ready for you to turn.
The wear and tear on homeware is the
details of our lives.
Making your own dinner plates
is a relatively easy task for most
1 The first step for this project is to
mount the plate stock on a screw
centre that has a spacer in front of it,
woodturners. The key is to start which only lets the screw protrude
with a quartersawn piece of wood. by 12mm. ➤ 1
WWC_13_19_21_DINNER_PLATE_MM_bdABSD.indd 19 14/03/2016 16:13

Power woodworking
12mm
(1/2in)
25mm 9mm
(1in) (3/8in)
19mm
(3/4in)
203mm (8in)
2 N ext, secure the stock with the

tailstock of the lathe.
3 N ow true up the diameter, top

and bottom of the blank with
a 16 mm bowl gouge.
4 Remove the tailstock then remove

wood to form the profile and base.
5 The base diameter for plates should

be no smaller than 7 5% of the total
diameter. As the plate is now 2 6 7 mm
in diameter, mark a base diameter
of 2 00mm. 2 3
6 C ut a 5mm tenon with a 9 0° surface

to use as a chucking device. You can
also recess the base a few millimetres
to add detail; this will also help
stabilise the piece over time.
7 Shear scrape the profile with a

12 mm shear scraping bowl gouge.
8 Test with a straight edge to make

sure the base will sit fl at.
Handy hints:
1. It is better to leave the plate thicker
than thin for this particular project 4 5
6 7 8

Power woodworking
Handy hints:
2. I like to sand in forward and reverse
between grits. This will give you a better
finished surface to the project
3. Never put a rim detail on the plate; food
will get stuck and it will be difficult to remove
9 Sand to 400 grit, then lightly mist

the surface with water to raise the
grain and let dry. Use a worn piece
of 400 grit to cut any raised grain,
pressing hard at the end to slightly
burnish the wood.
9 10
10 Remove the plate from the
screw. Make a jam chuck from
a 255 x 50mm piece of green wood
and support with the screw chuck or
any secure means. True it up and mark
the base’s diameter.
11 Now, use a spindle gouge

to recess the jam chuck to
fit the plate base.
12 Cut the recess snugly enough

to securely hold the plate while
you take cuts from the interior. Do not
rely on an insecure fit.
13 Secure the plate in the newly

made chuck and support with
the tailstock. Keep the thickness of
11 12
the entire plate around 12mm. Address

the rim with a 10mm bowl gouge to
get the thickness and design a bead at
the rim with a 10mm spindle gouge
to add detail.
14 Next, remove more material

in the centre with the 16mm
bowl gouge. Remove the tailstock to
get full access to the interior surface
of the plate.
15 Make a smooth surface, keeping

a 12mm thickness throughout.
Sand using the same process as before.
13 14
Remove the plate by tapping the back
of the jam chuck, then sign the piece,
add the species of wood and date it.
Hopefully your ancestors will have
a story to tell in the future.
16 Since the plate will be getting

plenty of use you should apply
a penetrating oil finish. You wouldn’t
want to use a film finish. Film finishes
will show wear and will have to be
repaired. For this plate I will use a
heat-treated walnut (Juglans nigra)
oil. Now make a plate for everyone in
the house. Better yet, make some for
your friends as well. ■ 15 16

Community
SPONSORED BY
Hints, Tips Record Power, suppliers of high quality woodworking

machinery and accessories, are pleased to be sponsoring
& Jigs
Your chance to pass on all your
the hints, ps and jigs sec on in collabora on with GMC
publica ons. Each issue’s ‘Star Tip’ will receive a Record
Power voucher to the value of £75 and all other published
ps will receive a £35 voucher. These vouchers can be
redeemed at any authorised Record Power stockist. Find
your nearest stockist at www.recordpower.co.uk/dealers
or call Record Power on 01246 571 020.
crafty hints, tips and jigs to the Send your tips to: The Editor, Woodworking Crafts,
readers and maybe even win a prize! 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN.
Alternatively Email: [email protected]
A HOLE IN ONE
Some long time ago in Woodworking Plans
& Projects you showed how make bench dogs
with aluminium rod. The problem I found
after a while, was the stopped hole drilled in
the vice ja w kept blocking up with chippings
and was difficult to clean out even with a
★ STAR
TIP
vacuum pipe. It meant the ja w dog wouldn’ t

go in the full depth, which got in the way
of me working. The simple brainwave was
to drill into the ja w facing down where the
bottom dog hole was. N ow the chippings
are easy to tease out or vacuum away, end of
problem!
Ron Butler
(That was so obvious, I had to pinch the idea

and improve my vice jaw – thanks Ron! – Ed)
BAR GAUGE PLUG CUTTING

I found a handy way to measure internal shapes ju st using I don’ t like having to lever wood plugs out when I’ ve cut
plastic electrical ducting. The snap on cover can be made them on the pillar drill. They tend to break off at an angle
to slide or push on to the ducting wherever you want it to. and they are often too short or too long as a result. I found
It helps if the ducting is bevelled back so it fits accurately if I could cut a strip of them off on the tablesaw so they were
you want to measure diagonals. It’ s cheap enough to make more or less the right length and no torn wood grain.
up a couple of different siz es. Jen Repton
Gerry Mullins
WWC_13_22_23_HINTS_TIPS_JIGS_bdABSD.indd 22 18/03/2016 15:01

Community
TABLE TOP BUTTONS
I started using a biscuit joi nter about six months

ago and I haven’ t looked back, a fantastic piece of kit.
I wanted to make a small table but I didn’ t want to fix ROUTED ANGLES
the top with glue because of natural movement in the Wh en I needed to rout some slots at an angle I decided
wood. Instead I made up some biscuit ‘ buttons’ like the to make up a fence at the angle I needed; it’ s ju st like
old fashioned sort that have a tongue in a slot. The dry a T-sq uare but angled, really. B ecause I wanted repetition
fitted biscuits do the same job and I made the slots by slots I cut the stock to the correct length so I could line it
inverting the table frame and using the bench top as up accurately each time against my pencil marks. It ju st
the ‘d atum’ a nd slotted the blocks as one long strip needs a clamp or two to hold it in position for machining.
before cutting them into individual buttons. Royston ‘Roy’ Mathews
Clive Fletcher
BRIGHT SPARK
I use a Sorby Pr o-E dge and a standard dry grinder and
I was getting a bit concerned because of the sparks that
fl y off, my workshop is made of wood so I really didn’ t
want a safety problem. I decided to line the area around
the grinders with a thin aluminium facing as I had a sheet
given to me by a friend ages ago. It came in handy at
last and gives me peace of mind knowing the sparks
will burn out safely.
Sam Hardie
REPEAT DEPTH SETTINGS

I found that I was often using the same depth setting
with the router for certain job s but I couldn’ t rely on
the router’ s own scale for accuracy and it was a bit of
a fiddle anyway. Instead I made up a set of thickness
gauges, in fact I have two sets covering a range of
typical settings that I need. I‘ ve had to write the
thickness on both sides so no matter which way over
I instantly know the thickness. P utting them on a bit
of cord keeps them all together.
Willie Roberts
By submitting your tips, you agree that GMC Publications may publish your Work in our magazines, websites, electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the
future. In addition GMC may sell or distribute the Work, on its own, or with other related material. This material must not have been submitted for publication elsewhere
WWC_13_22_23_HINTS_TIPS_JIGS_bdABSD.indd 23 14/03/2016 09:48

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24868LH
024_025_WWC_013.indd 24 3/17/16 3:45 PM

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024_025_WWC_013.indd 25 3/17/16 3:46 PM

Power woodworking
Bob Adsett
Bob started his
woodworking career
in 1967 in furniture
manufacturing before
moving into the construction
ti iindustry.
d t
He then worked as a demonstrator
and trainer for Kity Machines, which
included factory-based training in
Soviet-era Latvia. He then joined
Axminster where he marketed
CMT cutters and helped launch
Lamello products.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BOB ADSETT
Spindle moulder safety

• Always isolate the machine as
per manufacturer’s instructions
THE SPINDLE before making adjustments

• Use push sticks or push blocks
not fingers, to push the work through
MOULDER part 2 the machine

• Never run the machine without
the front guards or hold down units
In part 1 Bob Adsett showed us all the basics in place

• On a machine with reverse rotation
of the typical small spindle moulder. This time option, ensure correct direction is set
he shows us machining techniques • Always go through a pre-startup

routine and check the following:
– Cutters and their cut limiters
ontinuing from the last issue are ok, if not, carefully reset and do
C of Woodworking Crafts, we
are now ready for machining
and to feed the work through, starting
another test cut. O nce you are happy,
you are ready to machine a batch of
work. The spindle moulder is at its
correctly mounted in cutter block
– Cutterblock correctly fitted
and tightened on spindle
– Fences locked in position and
with a test piece to check the settings. best when being used to create batches
Start the extractor and the machine, of finished components. It is generally clear of cutters
then gently feed in the wood with the better to make slightly more than you – Guards correctly positioned
use of a pushstick as you get to the last need to, avoiding having to reset the
500mm or so. C heck that the settings machine again later on.
WWC_13_26_29_SPINDLE_MOULDER_BA_bdABSD.indd 26 14/03/2016 09:51

Power woodworking
CUTS
Here you can see an idea of the type of cuts that can be produced, including
changing over to a rebate block and making a pass in just one cut. Other operations
that are easy on a spindle moulder are tongue and groove, grooves and stub tenons
– used in cabinet doors with profile and counter-profile cutters.
This machine has a higher speed that makes it suitable for router cutters using a
spindle adaptor. The principles for scribing cuts (end cuts) are much the same for
setting the tooling, but the sliding carriage is used to hold the workpiece.
Combined profile and scribe frame

router cu er
Router cutters
Some machines have the option to
use router cutters, but there must
be a high enough speed to make this
possible. This machine has 9000rpm
as the top speed, that allows the
Face moulding with pressure guards Reba ng, again with pressure guards larger diameter ½in shank cutters
in place for support to be used.
1 The setup is the same as before,

only now we use a groove cutter.
These are available in different widths.
I use TC T blades, allowing me to
machine both natural wood and man-
made material with the same cutters.
If you need a wider cut then the work
can be turned over and cut from the
other side; this will also put the cut in
the centre of the work if req uired.
2 C ut the tongue or a stub tenon,

best done with two cutters as long
as they are wide enough to cut the
full face one either side. It is possible
to do this with one cutter by turning
the work over and cutting from both
sides, but much more accurate if done 1 2
in one pass. Wh en using two cutters,
use shims between the blades to space
them apart to give the req uired siz e
tongue that fits snugly into the groove.
3 U se the same tooling set up, but

this time use the sliding carriage
to move the work through the cutters.
Set up the guards for protection this
time, but not to put any pressure on
the work as it might create unwanted
drag on the workpiece. C lamp the
timber onto the carriage using the built-
in clamp. B etween the workpiece and
the back fence on the carriage clamp
a planed piece of timber to support the
work piece and stop any breakout as
the cutters come through. O nce you
have done all the cuts, fit a panel in
and you have a cupboard door. 3

Power woodworking
4 5
4 Remove the spindle shaft and

replace it with the router collet
shaft, making sure it is fitted and
one against one fence and the other
against the other fence, then slide the
complete fence assembly forward to
is to prevent the tenon rubbing on it
after it has been cut. Always cut the
stub tenon on the end of the rails
locked down properly. H ere I am touch the piece of wood clamped into first as the rail is sq uare and use of a
setting up to produce a profile and the carriage both sides of the cutter. piece of sq uare planed timber placed
counter-profile joi nt as used for I normally do this in line with the slot between the rail and the back fence on
kitchen cupboard doors, etc. the locking bolts are in. Wh en you the sliding carriage so breakout will be
are happy with this, lock the fence prevented. Remove blocks of wood and
5 Wh en tightening the locking nut

on the collet it should be tight,
but not ‘g orilla tight’ and sufficient
assembly down firmly. N ow back off
the outfeed fence by about 2 mm, this
clamp workpiece on carriage, but now
touching the fence to make a test cut.
shank in the collet.
6 Pos ition by winding the tooling up

or down to position it and adju st
the fences back or forward for depth
of cut. The fences must be sq uare to
the travel of the carriage to stop the
work sticking or ja mming as it is travels
across the cutters. An easy way to set
this is to first bring both fences forward
from the back of their adju stment stop
about 5mm and make sure that both
fences are in line. N ow clamp a piece
of wood into the sliding carriage so
that the end ju st touches the tip of a
cutter and clamp it down firmly. The
carriage can now move along the table 6
without any obstruction.
7 N ext, using two pieces of wood

planed to the same thickness
as the req uired depth of cut, place
Safety
Some machines will have a ring fence
as standard or available as an extra,
this is a piece of equipment not to be
used unless you know exactly what
you are doing, as one mistake could
be costly to your fingers. Before
attempting to use the ring fence get
proper training in the correct usage
7

Power woodworking
8 9
8 On the edge of the rails and stiles.

D o not move the fence assembly
as the tooling should automatically
make whatever adju stments are needed
and then run the job . Always use a
push stick to feed the work through
give the correct cutting depth. The the machine especially on the last
only adju stment needed to the fence part of the cut.
is to bring the outfeed fence back
into line with the infeed fence, so that
when the cuts are made the wood
moves smoothly from one to the other
10 Wi th the use of templates and
ij gs curved rails can also be
moulded. To do this the infeed fence
without catching. is moved forward as far as possible
and the outfeed fence moved back
9 C hange to the cutter that makes

the moulding and groove, and
adju st the height of the cutter to align
and remove the fence front from the
outfeed fence completely. This gives
room to move around as the cut
the stub tenon tongue to the groove is made.
cutter; this should make the moulding
part of the cutter line. Fix the pressure This is ju st an overview of this versatile
springs and guards in place and run a machine’ s capabilities, a whole book
test cut. If it is correct the rail and stile could be written on the subje ct ( It has
should marry together neatly, if not been – Ed) . ■
10
Examples
Here is an example of the type of work that can be done. one for outside curve sanding and the smaller one for inside
Square raised and fielded panels are straightforward, with curves. The size used is controlled by the radius of the work
either the spindle moulder and appropriate tooling or using you are doing. Always use a sanding bobbin smaller than the
a router cutter to suit. Curved top panels are also possible radius especially on internal radii to prevent snatching. Also
with training. move the work across the bobbin in the opposite direction to
All spindle moulders can take a sanding drum system; the one the rotation of the bobbin to prevent the work grabbing and
that I used has 3 different diameter bobbins. I use the larger maybe dragging fingers across the abrasive bobbin.
Tradi onal frame and panel construc on door, Drum sanding is an incredibly useful way to clean
especially used for kitchens up the edges of a shaped workpiece

Flexidisc Sander/Grinder
The flexidisc sander gives a superb finish on wood, metal, fibreglass,
car body filler and all hard materials.
Its fast rotation speed achieves sensational results in a fraction of the
time normally taken by conventional sanders.
This versatile tool also sharpens chisels, plane blades, lathe tools, axes and
garden tools without the rapid overheating of normal abrasive wheels.
This is the ideal tool to prepare your timber prior to varnishing with
Le Tonkinois varnish.
www.flexidiscsander.co.uk
Tel: 01628 548840
Le Tonkinois Varnish Le Tonkinois is a natural oil based yacht varnish.

Perfect for outdoor, indoor and marine use. With Le Tonkinois varnish the options really are endless.
Combining unrivalled protection on materials including cork flooring, stone, metal and wood
and brilliant permanent penetration, Le Tonkinois varnish leaves absolutely no brush marks
and will restore the natural beauty of timber whilst removing your brush marks.
Flexible enough to move with the timber and able to withstand abrasion and impact,
Le Tonkinois varnish is resistant to boiling water, UV, petrol, diesel
and sea water. It won’t crack, chip or peel off, making it
perfect for all outside purposes as well as indoor.
www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk
Tel: 01628 5488840
030_WWC_013.indd 30 3/22/16 3:55 PM

Hand woodworking
GREEN WOODWORKING
Weaving a
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER WOOD
Willow fence What you will need

Peter Wood shows how to weave • Sweet chestnut posts
and uprights
a continuous willow fence • Hurdling willow
• Sledge hammer
ne part of my woodworking very difficult to achieve when you’ re • Secateurs
O business that I really enjoy

is working in schools with
children, enabling them to have hands-
running pole lathe turning sessions.
A great way to achieve this is to have
the children weave with willow ( salix
• Loppers
• Gloves
on practical experiences of different spp.) , either individually or as I will

aspects of craft. The problem is that show you in this article, by weaving ( Salix alba vitellina x fragilis) which
schools have to ju stify the expense of a continuous willow fence. It creates a will add some colour into the fence.
an artist coming into a school by having good looking and permanent structure The willow I’ m using is specifically
the largest possible number of children in the school; children of all ages enjoy grown for hurdle making and can be
included in each activity, which is the weaving and results can be seen ordered and delivered easily.
very q uickly. The example I’ m going In the winter, when the willow is
to show you how to weave is 18m in being cut you can buy ‘ green’ willow;
Willow suppliers length and varies in height – between this is freshly cut so still full of sap and
Blencogo Willow: 1.5m and 1.2 m. You can, of course, can be used straight away.
www.blencogowillow.com weave any length and height of fence D uring the summer the willow will
English Willow Baskets: and form an attractive screen in a have been dried out to store, so will
www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk garden. I’ ve chosen sweet chestnut need soaking for roughly seven days
Musgrove Willow Growers Ltd: ( Castanea sativa) uprights for their before becoming pliable enough for
www.musgrovewillows.co.uk durability ( 50–7 5mm diameter posts weaving. The willow is sold by the
Somerset Willow Growers Ltd: and cleft pales) and two varieties of ‘ wad’ or by the kilo and three ‘ wads’
www.willowgrowers.co.uk willow, brown ( Salix viminalis) for should be more than enough for a
most of the weaving and fl anders red 1.8 x 1.8m section.
WWC_13_31_34_WILLOW_FENCE_PW_bdABPWSD.indd 31 22/03/2016 14:26

Hand woodworking
1 2
1 First, set out your sweet chestnut

uprights. The larger posts are set
at 1.8m spacing, so you will need to
3
knock the larger posts into the ground
at least 3 00mm, or alternatively use
concrete if more strength is needed.
For this fence I’ ve evenly spaced seven
chestnut pales between the posts; you
could add an extra pale in-between the
posts if wanted, which will give more
tension in the weave.
2 C reate curves along the length of

the fence to add strength. In my
example the curves also complement
the landscape. Avoid weaving perfectly
straight fences, as they suffer more
wind damage over time.
3 N ow we weave in the willow.

We ave five rods of willow for each
upright; you can vary this depending
on the ‘look’ of you fence ( but I’ ll now
refer to these five rods ju st as rods) .
The diameter of each rod will vary,
so try to avoid using five large or small
rods in one weave. To start, weave the
rods through an upright ju st once,
with the large end ( butt end) braced
against an upright leaving most of the
length unwoven; start from the seventh
upright from the end post. E ach set
of rods should start on the same side
of the fence. Wh en this is laid out
pick your initial set of rods and weave
the rest of its length above the other
willow you added. Repeat this with
each subseq uent set of rods.
4–5 On ce you reach the end

post, wrap the excess willow
tightly around the post and carry the 4 5
weave back along the fence.

Hand woodworking
6 7
6 The final two sets of rods will

pull up from the base and ‘ lock’
the weave in.
8 9
7 On ce you’ve completed the first

seven rod sets, start weaving the
main fence adding one set of rods at
a time. Ju st remember to start with
the butt ( thick) end, start at the next
upright each time and weave the whole
length before starting the next bundle.
8 To weave the willow, hold the

set of rods in place and tightly to
the weave with one hand, then hold
the section to be woven with the
other hand.
9 Lif t up the willow and weave the

through the next upright, then
move your hands along to the next
upright. You’ ll get into a rhythm and
it is very satisfying seeing the progress.
Try to not leave too much of the butt
end past the upright as it will be
trimmed fl ush to the upright when
you tidy the fence when you finish.
10 Ha lfway through, I’ ve changed

willow variety, adding the
fl anders to give some colour. As you
are weaving remember to keep
knocking the weave tight; this
compression of the weave strengthens
the fence. You can create ‘ waves’
within the weave by adding extra sets
of rods where you want the weave to
rise. Remember, if you add extra sets
of rods on the same upright, start on
the alternate side.Wh en you’ re happy
with the height and fl ow of your fence,
run a different weave across the top to
stop the willow unravelling above the
uprights. You’ll s ee a similar weave
on newly laid hedges. 10

Hand woodworking
11 It takes a few tries to get into

the swing of this weave but
persevere! In this picture you can see
three uprights. You’ re weaving with
two sets of rods; you can see them
j ust before the first upright ( no.1) and
between the first and second upright
( no.2 ) . L ift no.1 up and weave it over
the top of no.2 , around the back of the
second upright and then through the
second and third upright. Repeat this
along the length of the fence. You want
this to be a continuous run of willow, 11
so keep adding more willow to each
bundle. D o this by pushing three rods
into no. 1 bundle ( under no.2 ) before ends of the weave. There should be the
you weave it over the top of no.2 . two sets of rods to tie in, twist each set Peter Wood
P erform this at each upright. of rods around the final upright and Peter has been a
weave back under your binding weave. skilled green wood
12 Wh en you come to the very end

of your fence, secure the final
I’ ve raised this up in the picture to
make this weaving easier, then knock
the weave down locking it into place.
craftsperson making
Windsor chairs and
other creations for
over 25 years. He demonstrates these
13 Move back along the fence

knocking the willow down to
tighten the weave, then work your way
skills around the country, gives lectures
and runs hands-on workshops for all
ages. He set up Greenwood Days in the
along the fence cutting the willow ends National Forest as a centre to teach a
fl ush at each upright using secateurs range of traditional and contemporary
and loppers. Finally, saw the uprights crafts. He is also the current world
ju st proud of the top to create a tidy champion pole lathe turner!
fence. In good conditions this fence Web: www.greenwooddays.co.uk
can last between five to 10 years. ■
12
13

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035_WWC_013.indd 35 3/22/16 3:57 PM

Power woodworking
PLANS 4YOU
Sun lounger
Simon Rodway shows
ows
ws yyou
ou
how to make your very
ey
own sun lounger
CUTTING LIST
• Side rails 2 @ Ex 2000 x 94 x 20
• Cross rails 4 @ 700 x 44 x 20
• Slats 10
0 @ 660 x 94 x 20
• Back stiles 2 @ 758 x 69 x 20
• Back slats 6 @ 582 x 94 x 20
• Wheels 2 @ 150 dia. x 15
• Support battens 2 @ 850 x 25 x 20
• Support battens 2 @ 325 x 25 x 20
• Notched battens 2 @ 350 x 25 x 20
• Back support arms 2 @ 400 x 44 x 20
• Back support cross piece 1 @ 656 x 32 x 20
• Legs 4 @ 293 x 69 x 20
• Leg cross rails 2 @ 660 x 44 x 20
n anticipation of blue skies and interlocking profiles on both sides,
I relaxation outdoors, my project

this month is a folding sun lounger.
Unless you have huge amounts of free
and then mark out the positions
of the cross rails and their mortices.
I added a 25mm radius on the
storage space, a single one of these bottom four corners of the side rails
can really eat up room over the winter of the lounger to soften the profile,
months, so I’ve come up with a folding which needs cutting at this point.
version that will occupy a lot less space Additionally, mark the depth of the
when not in use. seat slats and support battens on the
Once again with this project, inner faces of the side rails, as the cross checking the diagonals and then let
I’ve tried to make things as easy as rails will sit immediately below them, the long hinges into the bottom edges
possible and used standard timber so you need to make sure you have of the side rails, and check you’ve got
section sizes throughout. Apart from allowed enough clearance. a good fit, opening and closing the
the tenons on the back and the cross Cut the mortices and then cut the frames together. Make any adjustments
rails, there are really no joints to cut cross rails to length, forming tenons needed at this stage, as the overall
either, and it should be possible to on each end. At this point it’s probably shape and foldability of your lounger
make one of these loungers with a very easier to fit the slat support battens will be more or less determined here.
few hand tools. The interlocking joint along the inner edges of the side rails.
on the side rail and the wheel would Also add the rear battens which will be Legs and wheels
both be easier with a jigsaw, but even notched out for the back support. You The next stage is to add the legs and
here a simple coping saw would do will need to take these off later to add the front wheels. I have suggested 12
the job just as well. the notches, so just screw temporarily or 15mm plywood for the wheels and
Starting with the side rails, which in place. Joining the sides together rounded over at the top, the vertical
are divided midway along the two with the cross rails, make up the front pieces that carry them, which are
metre length, draw out and cut the and back sections into simple frames screwed onto the outside of the
WWC_13_36_37_SUN_LOUNGER_SR_bdABSD.indd 36 18/03/2016 15:07

Power woodworking
SIDE ELEVATION - FOLDED
293
758
20 20 Possible back positions
20 LEG DETAIL
83°
20 410
44 50
866 1134
10 R47 25
94 29
69 30 350
568 415 40 960
1000 1000 330
35 97°
Ø150 Hinges here, along bottom SIDE ELEVATION
edge of side rails
850 758
20 20 20
25 44 44 237 25 20 R20 12
49 25
5 835 84
20 270
293 69
SECTION
PLAN
12
20 758
20 69
32
32
660 94 94 582 700
25
850 326
20
350
side rails. The layout of the legs, flush with the side rails and the slats in this isn’t shown in the 3D exploded
which are angled outwards at 7° front the down position, so that it is possible view). Replace the battens and check
and back, is shown in a detail drawing. to lie flat on the lounger. To raise the it is all working. One final refinement
Cut each pair of legs out, join with the back, a simple support with side arms I haven’t shown would be a small
cross rails shown and position carefully and a cross piece sits underneath, catch to secure the back in the folded
on the inside of the side rails. The flat and is hinged using timber blocks position, as you could then wheel it
section at the top should sit below fixed to the back slats and stiles with around without the back dropping
the battens and the front edges of the a steel rod passed through the ends of on the ground. ■
legs are also stopped against the cross the arms. The cross piece is bevelled
rails. You could just secure the legs on the ends, where it will slot into
in place with a few screws through the notches that you cut in the end Simon Rodway
the pivot holes to check that they will battens. I haven’t shown positions for Simon Rodway also runs
rotate freely into the folded positions these, as this is a matter of personal LineMine, a website
and then when you’re happy, mark and preference, so once you have fitted the with articles and online
drill the bolt holes. Secure both pairs back with the side bolts, and fixed the courses on drawing
with bolts, and then add the slats at back support in place, try out a variety software. A new course,
this point, screwing down into the of angles, and mark the positions ‘SketchUp for Woodworkers’, is
tops of the support battens. of the cross piece on the tops of the proving really popular. For details and
battens. Remove the battens and notch to get discount coupons, see website
The back out to a depth of about 11mm from details below.
The back is relatively straightforward, the 25mm batten, and it’s a good idea Email: [email protected]
a simple sequence of stiles and rails to angle the front of the notch so that Web: www.linemine.com/courses
mortice and tenoned together. It sits the cross piece engages fully (although
WWC_13_36_37_SUN_LOUNGER_SR_bdABSD.indd 37 14/03/2016 09:55

Community
KIT & TOOLS

Take a look at the tools, gadgets and gizmos that
we think you will enjoy using in your workshop
MINI TEST
General Finishes pearl effects
This is range of six water-based pearl effect
finishes designed to be applied over a variety
of paints, stains and water-based top coats,
including their own range of milk paints. They
can be brushed,dry brushed, stippled or sprayed
on. There is also an extender solution that can
be added. There is a very useful YouTube video
demonstrating how to get different effects with
these finishes. Visit youtu.be/eO55bnzQTj4
to see more.
Verdict
You need to be prepared to experiment to get
the best from these finishes. I found it useful
to create a sample board, but also the best
pearlescent results show on moulded or shaped
areas with detail.
Do watch the video before deciding what you From
need to buy. Peter Brown at General Finishes £42
UK, is extremely helpful and can give you his
guidance as well. In view of the cost, this is quite
an economical product to use.
Colours available: Argentine Pearl, Burnished
Pearl, Champagne Pearl, Tawny Pearl, Bronze
Pearl, Copper Pearl.
Prices: US pint/473ml – £42

US quart/ 946ml – £66.75
Extender US pint/473ml – £13.15
Visit: www.generalfinishes.co.uk
GSA 18 V-LI C Professional

The GSA 18 V-LI C Professional combines a low weight of
just 2.5 kilograms with high power to guarantee fast sawing
progress. This precision cordless saw is claimed to be the
ideal tool for electricians, installers and interior construction
professionals. It offers a stroke rate of up to 3050 strokes
per minute and has many versatile applications, such as
cutting and trimming metal tubes, sheet-metal covers, wood
panelling and drywalls. The GSA 18 V-LI C Professional has
a soft-start motor for smooth, precise, controlled operation.
An LED light illuminates the work site so even tight spaces
or overhead areas can be seen clearly.
To ensure fast progress and long runtime, the GSA 18 V-LI
C Professional has a powerful DC motor and is supplied
with a 5.0 Ah battery. The ‘Electronic Cell Protection’ (ECP)
system protects the lithium ion battery against overload,
From overheating and total discharge, and maximises battery life.
Contact: Bosch The GSA 18 V-LI C Professional cordless sabre saw is
Tel: 0711 400 40990
£357 supplied in the L-Boxx, including AL 1860 CV Professional
Web: www.bosch.com charger and two 5.0 Ah lithium ion batteries.
WWC_13_38_40_KIT_&_TOOLS_ bdABSD.indd 38 18/03/2016 15:09

Community
MINI TEST
£28
From
£12
+ VAT
Contact: Hultafors Tools

Tel: 01484 854788
Web: www.hultafors.co.uk
Hultafors spirit levels

Flexidisc sander Now available in the UK with a new
This German made device modern design, better-focus vials for
is part of a deceptively easier reading and end protectors with
simple and effective sanding system, which can do a lot more than I can an anti-slip function. It’s always been
describe here. We had the basic Flexidisc unit and several corundum (not Hultafors’ mission to give professional
carborundum) hook and loop discs to try out. For a start, corundum doesn’t tradesmen and women the best quality
heat up metal like other abrasives do and is safer to use with other materials tools for optimal on-site performance.
such as varnish, wood and glass. The actual unit has a small milled nut that That’s why the company’s high-quality
locks it rigid for grinding work (there is an optional static mount available). spirit levels have been redesigned to
In all other circumstances the nut is removed so the disc can change angles perform at a higher level than other
to float level over surfaces for even sanding. There is a complete set of similar products.
accessories, and replacement corundum discs are also available. It works The new, modern design includes
best with a mains-powered drill rather than a cordless one. an upgraded crush-proof vial with an
improved focus for easier reading.
Verdict There’s also a strong aluminium profile
This isn’t just a gimmick tool; it really does work. You need to decide how and effective shock-absorbent end
much you want to buy into the system and accessories, but it is very efficient protectors and a new anti-slip function
with excellent results. I tried medium abrasive to remove paint from wood to keep the device firmly in place. The
and the result was a silky smooth ostensibly scratch-free finish, which I new models look great and, added to
hadn’t expected. The downside is the amount of dust created; you need all the other products in the Hultafors’
protection and arrange localised extraction at source. range, there’s something to suit every
conceivable levelling requirement.
Sample prices: Starter pack with four discs and cleaning rubber – £28.00
125mm eight discs any mix of grade (60, 150, 220, 400) – £6.00
Visit: www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk
Pfeil carpenter chisels

This set of six Pfeil carpenter chisels with marking knife
n
nife
ncclude
comes in a wooden presentation box. Chisel sizes include
6, 10, 12, 16, 20 and 26mm, with the box size at 310 0x
215 x 45mm. Introduced in 2010, these carpenters
chisels have elm (Ulmus procera) wood octagonal
handles with an oval section. The blades are forged
from K 510 steel, hardened up to 60 RC. Bevel
edged with well marked facets. The blades are
finely ground and polished.
£165.30
Contact: Classic Hand Tools
Tel: 01473 784983
Web: www.classichandtools.com

Community
Drawer front installa on clamps

£39.99 Sold in pairs, Rockler’s drawer front installation clamps
attach to the drawer box and hold the drawer front in place,
leaving the user’s hands free to fine-tune positioning and
drive mounting screws – without the need for double-sided
tape or brad nails driven through the finished front.
Because of their design, the clamps even allow the drawer
box to be pushed back into the cabinet while they’re still
holding the drawer front so users can verify the alignment
and make any necessary adjustments. The clamps are made
of steel and feature threaded bolts with knob handles on
one end and nylon-capped clamping pads on the other
to provide strong clamping pressure without damaging
the drawer box and front. Knob-topped adjustment bolts
with nylon tips allow precise side-to-side adjustment of the
drawer front position, and they incorporate a nut that allows
users to lock in the position for quick, accurate repeatability
Contact: Rockler Woodworking and Hardware on additional drawers.
Tel: 1-877-ROCKLER
Web: www.rockler.com
MINI TEST From

£546
Chappell Gauging and
Centre Squares
Both these squares are
ng
intended for accurate setting
out, the gauging square
h facess
has metric rules on both
ng at the
and all edges zero being e
rners
internal and external corners
while the centre square has
same setting out with addition n
tes
of a centre rule on both legs and relates
to the outer edge rules.
Verdict
Great if you want precision marking out and check
for square as these are very precise well made tools.
Not a replacement for a standard square with a wide
stock though.
Prices: Gauging square 100 x 80mm – £27.00

Centre square 240 x 150mm £39.00/ 300 x 200mm
– £60.00 M class dust extractors
Visit: www.classichandtools.com The new Makita VC2201MXI/VC2211MX1 M class dust
From extractors bristle with innovative features. Powered by a
£27 1,050 watt motor, available in either 110v or 240v mode,
which delivers a quiet 22.0 kPa maximum suction with
an air flow of 3.5 m?/min to pull material into the 22 litre
stainless steel tank. These extractors feature a new automatic
self-cleaning filter system achieved by two triple function
filter units. These are composed of a powder filter, damper
and pre-filter which use a valve system to redirect airflow
through each of the filters in turn to release the collected
dust into the retainer. The audible air flow sensor bleeps a
warning when the tank is full or the pipe is blocked.
The Class M approval allows use with mica, china clay,
gypsum, wood dust, masonry, GRP and concrete.
Contact: Makita
Tel: 01908 211678
Web: www.makitauk.com

NEW
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041_WWC_013.indd 41 3/22/16 12:54 PM

Community
For many years,

Bankside wooden debris was
viewed as an enemy
story of our waterways, but

current thinking is
flowing in the opposite
direction. Catherine
Kielthy invited river
restoration expert
Peter King to wade
into the debate
ith a rap sheet that included
W exacerbating fl ooding risk

and causing barriers to
fish passage, it’ s little wonder that for
many years woody debris was routinely
removed from our river channels.
More recent observations and studies,
however, have shown that in most
cases woody features in rivers and on
the surrounding banks benefit wildlife
and limit the worst effects of fl ooding,
so is it time timber was exonerated?
River restoration expert P eter K ing
is in no doubt that woody debris can
be a force for good. “ Wo od in river
channels accumulates into complex
dams consisting of twigs, branches
and whole trees, some of which are
living and will continue to grow within
the channel,” he says. P eter is proje ct
officer with the O use & Adur Rivers
Trust ( O ART) , one of 47 organisations
in E ngland, Wa les and Ireland that
come under the umbrella of the Rivers
Trust ( the Rivers and Fisheries Trusts
of Scotland has half as many trusts
again) . H e adds: “ These ‘ debris dams’
provide multiple benefits by increasing
fl ow diversity, trapping sediments that
would otherwise move downstream to
settle in low-lying areas and potentially
increase fl ood risk at these locations.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF OART UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
They also create habitat and shelter for

fish and invertebrate species, both of
which are vital in naturally functioning
river ecosystems, and trap or filter
pollutants and nutrients that can be
harmful to a range of aq uatic life.”
Propping up the banks

Volunteers, including Keith Russell (above), P eter isn’ t alone either. River trusts
are helping to improve the Ouse and Adur with across the country have a string of
the use of berms on the bankside proje cts, ranging from large-scale
meander restoration and weir removal
WWC_13_42_45_OART_FEATURE_CK_bdCKABPKSD.indd 42 18/03/2016 15:11

Community
River King
Peter, who was born and raised
in Horsham, West Sussex, has
been the OART’s project Officer
since November 2011. Before
gaining an MSc in Wildlife
Biology and Conservation from
Edinburgh Napier University,
Peter co-founded a conservation
programme on the South Africa/
Botswana border, which he and
his partner ran for six years. This
was followed by four months
in Madagascar researching
the effects of deforestation on
lizard communities. He returned
to the UK in 2010 and began
volunteering with various
environmental groups in Sussex. Woody debris can
He is also heavily involved in be rearranged if it
the long-term monitoring of impedes fish passage
water vole populations.
Changing courses
The management of our
to smaller gravel augmentation and waterways has changed
bank stabilisation, that use wood considerably over the years
and woody debris in the channels. and one of the witnesses to
All of these proje cts req uire labour – the transformation is John ‘Sam’ St Pierre, vice chairman of the
preferably free: enter the nation’ s army OART and an early member of the Sussex Ouse Conservation
of hard-working, dedicated and often Society (SOC), which was formed in 1995. “If you go back to the
wellie-clad volunteers. “ The volunteer mid-80s they used to dredge streams,” he recalls. “It was the holy grail of land
aspect is critical,” stresses Pe ter. “ Wi th drainage so that you could bring swampy land into productive agricultural land.
the O ART, for instance, we have one That was coupled with a ‘we must keep the channel free’ policy so any wood
full-time employee – me – and one that went into the channel was pulled out.” It proved a lethal combination that
part-time. Wi thout the volunteers, we devastated the river ecology, wreaking havoc on the Ouse’s gravel beds that
couldn’ t do what we do.” Many of the are essential for fish spawning. “Even in the early days of the SOC we were still
schemes in which they will be called to pulling wood out of streams if we thought it was causing a bit of a blockage,”
help involve the use of wood in bank reveals Sam. “Now, if we think it’s an impediment to fish passage, or if it’s causing
stabilisation and the construction of excessive flooding, we don’t take it out; we rearrange it. Our present policy is to
berms. The latter narrow channels, keep woody debris in streams, keep gravel in streams and to stop dredging. In
adding sinuosity and increasing the fact we have put gravel back into several streams over the course of the past few
diversity of fl ow and habitat observed. years. And we have seen results. We’ve seen sea trout spawning in these gravels.”
“ To do this we need to use a lot But he warns that most of the nation’s rivers are still in a poor
or
of ‘ brushwood bundles’ , effectively ecological state and we are in danger of losing many much-loved ed
bundles of sticks, normally [ in E ast species, among them the humble Mayfly. All is not lost, though, h,
and We st Sussex] chestnut ( Castanea and the combined efforts of volunteers and the recent move
sativa) or haze l ( Corylus spp.) , which to create wet woodland on floodplains with increased tree
Southern
are bound together and form the planting is helping to create a terrestrial habitat in which
hawker
front edge of in-channel features,” says wildlife and river life, including dragonflies and sea trout,
out,
dragonfly
P eter. “ These bundles can be expensive can flourish. Nonetheless, Sam says more help is needed.ded.
if any significant q uantity is req uired, “From 14–140 years old, everyone’s welcome.
so the volunteers help us to make And it doesn’t matter if you’re not physically fit
them. And we’ re also very grateful to because there are always nice, easy, gentle tasks
landowners who let us coppice trees that you can do while others are wading about in
or collect suitable materials from the water and doing the heavy work.” For Sam, the
Brown
within their woodland areas.” bankside is a second home: “If I get a day when I’m trout
On ce assembled, these bundles are not doing anything on the river I get all fidgety.”
used to create the front edge of a berm,

Community
which can then be backfilled with more natural processes and changes to in-
brushwood or clay to create a more channel morphology at any level. “ This
permanent feature. “ Wh ere these are consists of live willow – which as long
filled with brushwood they collect silt as it is wet, will grow from sticks or
and over time, as the wood rots away, branches without roots – being woven
we are left with a stable, solid berm in-between chestnut posts to form a
that provides increased fl ow diversity fence-like barrier between bank and
in periods of low fl ow as well as river,” explains P eter. “ As the spilling
allowing a more complex vegetation to matures, it becomes willow trees
establish that is great for invertebrates. whose roots grow into and stabilise the
They also help to control erosion by bank, while the cover provided by the
stabilising the banks, limiting sediment new canopy provides important areas
input to the watercourse.” of shade to the channel itself.”
O ver the past five years the O ART has
also used willow spilling in areas where Mopping up the mess
large-scale stabilisation is req uired, These aren’ t the only ways that
eschewing ‘ hard’ engineering solutions wood can be used to enhance rivers,
such as rock-filled gabion baskets however. “ We use whole trees to act
or metal sheet piling which prevent as defl ectors that alter the fl ow pattern
and can be used to defl ect fl ow away
from banks which are particularly
prone to erosion. In addition, as fl ow
velocity over and under the tree will
be increased, pools are formed in the
river bed, creating deep areas favoured
as refuge by certain species of fish
that have often disappeared because
of management practices such as
dredging, for example, or naturally
fill with sediment in impounded
reaches behind structures.”
The U K’ s river trusts are also using
wood to help alleviate the devastating
Left: Brushwood bundles create effects on the river beds of previous
the front of the berm dredging interventions that, over
Above: A completed berm time, have seen our river systems
Twineham: a case in point

2010: The foundations for the OART were laid when the November 2014: With the help of volunteers, 300 trees
Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) were planted in the surrounding area. This was followed by
proposed the merger of the Sussex River Ouse and River Adur six to eight months of close monitoring of the banks to assess
conservation societies as one of 10 pilot projects. It wanted the effect of the drop in water level.
to see if shared resources could improve the ecological status August 2015: £15,000 of finance was secured to stabilise
of rivers in line with the European-wide Water Framework the banks and topsoil levels, but volunteer input was essential
Directive. While some pilots had catchment areas as small as to complete the task. “Otherwise, all we had was a bloke with a
10km, the OART’s watercourse alone covers thousands of digger – and me,” says Peter. “All the in-channel work, making
kilometres and crosses East and West Sussex boundaries. it look nice, making the berms, pinning the wood into the river,
2011: A collaborative project between the OART and the putting all the bank control stuff on, re-seeding – that was all
Environment Agency, the concept was part of the work to done with help from volunteers.”
be completed within DEFRA’s pilot study. The aim was to November 2015: Volunteers came out again to plant
remove two weirs in Twineham, West Sussex, and enhance the another 500 trees on the site.
bankside and improve the area’s features as necessary. February 2016 – mission accomplished: 4.8km of river that
2012: During the actual DEFRA pilot year, OART began was previously inaccessible to fish passage has been opened
consultations with landowners, anglers and other interested up; the bankside has been stabilised using woody debris; and
parties to gain all the necessary permissions for the work and myriad features have been created to encourage wildlife
to establish productive relationships. habitat as well as to improve the site for local people.
2013: The deadline for the removal of the weirs came and Lessons learned: Patience is a must. “It takes time, money
went as the money for the project dried up. [the entire Twineham scheme cost £120,000], a lot of effort
August 2014: Thanks to the combined efforts of several and a neverending amount of paperwork,” cautions Peter.
groups, including the landowner, crucial funding was secured “And you must have the money to finish anything that
and the two weirs, plus an extra set, on the Herrings Stream you’ve started. We couldn’t have done this project without
and the River Adur, were finally removed. volunteers; they saved us thousands of pounds.”

Community
SOUTHWATER
CUCKFIELD
BILLINGSHURST
OUSE AND ADUR RIVER MAPS REPRODUCED BY SIMON RODWAY WITH KIND PERMISSION OF THE OART
COWFOLD
COOLHAM BOLNEY
BURGESS HILL
R. Adur
East
R. Adur
West
HURSTPIERPOINT
THAKEHAM
HENFIELD
ASHINGTON
POYNINGS
STEYNING
River Adur
SHOREHAM-BY-SEA
LANCING
WORTHING
The river Adur and its main tributaries
ARDINGLY
River Uck FIVE ASHES

River Ouse
HAYWARDS HEATH BUXTED
UCKFIELD
NEWICK
PLUMTON GREEN
ISFIELD
LEWES
Some of the OART’s volunteers with their brushwood bundles
BRIGHTON AND HOVE
River Ouse Volunteer army get their hands dirty and find out what
NEWHAVEN It’s estimated that around 20 million we do on the ground as well as people
people volunteer in the UK at least employed by less-than-environmentally
The river Ouse and its main tributaries. once a year, a largely unsung effort that focused companies who want to give
Between these two rivers the OART contributes billions to the country’s something back. It attracts people from
covers a vast amount of ground economy. Behind these numbers is a all kinds of backgrounds. We never turn
big effort – and for the nation’s water away anyone who wants to help.” Their
straightened and deepened, most channels an invaluable one. But who contribution cannot be overestimated,
commonly to aid navigation and are these hardy souls who regularly especially when securing funding is
prevent fl ood risk. “ The N orfolk Rivers forego cosy weekend lie-ins to spend becoming increasingly difficult. “Thanks
Trust, for instance, has been doing hours messing about on the river? to volunteers across the country, some
some really amaz ing stuff with wood” , Well, according to Peter, they’re a woody debris features are almost free.”
says Pe ter. “ They’ ve taken some really mixed bunch whose number include
heavily modified channels; things teenagers as well as septuagenarians. Join up
that have been wrecked by to the “We have ecology undergraduates To find out how to volunteer with
point that they’ re not really rivers hoping to learn from real-world the OART, go to www.oart.org.uk.
any more, and they’ ve put them back situations, postgraduates looking For other trusts in England, Wales
by using woody features.” to boost their hands-on experience, and Ireland, visit www.theriverstrust.
In the case of the O use and Adur, office workers – even some from the org, and for Scottish organisations
dreging destroyed the gravel beds, Environment Agency – who want to log on to www.rafts.org.uk.
upsetting the spawning and lifecycles
of sea trout ( Salmo trutta) , barbel
and bullhead and a host of insect life
while also removing a natural filter of
sediments and pollution. “ D redging
removes the bed characteristics and
associated habitat while also allowing
gravel to move q uickly through the
river system leaving many areas devoid Wood and
of this hugely important feature. rocks are used
“ OA RT and its predecessors have Wooden retainers are to enhance fish
worked hard to reinstate gravel used in the gravel beds that passageways
beds, keeping them in place by using are vital for fish spawning in streams
chestnut wooden retainers. These are and rivers
dug into the bank edges to maintain
the level of gravel and while there
will always be – and we want to see –
natural movement down the system
these retainers act to trap that material
moving from upstream, keeping a
sustainable area of gravel over many
years.” Wi th that, it would appear the
case against woody debris in our water
channels is well and truly closed. ■

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL T COLLINS
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
Tools
Jack plane
Smoothing plane
Block plane
Compass plane (optional)
Pair of dividers or compass
Pair of outside callipers
Spokeshave (one flat, one convex)
Draw knife (optional)
Mortise and marking gauge
Marking knife
Mallet
Bevel chisels 6mm, 13mm, 19mm
and 25mm
Combination square
Lathe (optional)
Wood
For the pedestal one would ideally
want to use a solid block of clear
straight grained wood, however,
I wanted to use up some cherry
(Prunus avium) boards, left over
from other projects and so opted
to laminate four boards together.
he Shaker’s furniture reached
T its pinnacle in the first half of

the 19th century, building no
frills – utilitarian furniture. Among
their works is a collection of small side
Shaker tables that were typically positioned

near chairs, desks and beds. The
Shakers did most of their evening work
by candlelight and today these side
candle
tables are often referred to as candle
stands. Some of the original tables
can be can be found in New York’s
Metropolitan Museum of Art.
In this article I am going to take you
stand through the steps of making a Shaker

candle stand, based on one first made
at the Shaker Village in New Lebanon,
New York and is currently in the
collection at the American Museum in
Michael T Collins makes a Shaker candle stand Bath. The stand consists of a 19mm
thick by 470mm diameter top with a
chamfered lower edge. The stand’s
Alternatives Cutting list

If you do not have access to a lathe – it is best to not try and mimic the smooth Four – 19 x 125 x 485mm
lines of a lathe, but opt instead for a modern angular pedestal. Divide the end
Legs – 19 x 90 x 371mm
into a hexagon. Mark the location of the base and saw down 6mm to create the
shoulder – from the end draw a hexagon 6mm smaller, then use a chisel to pare Cross brace – 19 x 125 x 350mm
away the waste. Plane the pedestal so that it tapers from the shoulder to about Pedestal – 90 x 485mm laminated
38mm. The tenon on the end is cut with a saw and a rasp. The legs should also or solid straight grained
be given a more angular treatment to match.
WWC_13_46_50_SHAKER_CANDLE_TABLE_MTC_bdABMTCSD.indd 46 18/03/2016 15:13

Power woodworking
tabletop is attached to the 85mm

diameter pedestal by a cross brace.
The post’s profile is an elongated wine
bottle, with a 6 x 90mm rebate at the
bottom to accept the legs held in place
with sliding dovetails.
The pedestal
1 If laminating the wood for the
pedestal, then the first step is to
rip the boards to a little over 90mm
and plane the faces of all the boards.
Then, glue them together orienting
the grain for best match and ease of
shaping and planing. 1 2
2 Once the glue has dried – plane

and square. Whether you laminate
or use solid stock to construct the
pedestal, divide up one end to form
an octagon. The simplest way to get
an octagon is to draw the diagonals
and then scribe the maximum size
circle. Then, using a 45° bevel, draw
the tangent where the diagonals
intersect the circle.
3 Then, with a drawknife or plane

bring all the edges down to the
octagonal outline – this will make
turning the wood easier. I always 3 4
remove the bulk of the wood with
the tool that is easiest to sharpen
– in this case a drawknife.
4 Once the pedestal is brought down

to a rough octagon, cut a pattern.
5 Use the lathe to turn the pedestal.

Mark out the general shape using
a parting tool and a pair of outside
callipers. There are no hard and fast
rules about the shape – but the base
needs to be large enough to house
the joinery.
6 Plane one face of the leg stock and

then gauge the thickness to 19mm
– plane down to this line. Lay out the
5 6
legs, making sure that the thinnest part

of the leg has the longest run of grain.
7 Then with a bow saw cut out the

legs. The closer to the line you can
be, the less cleaning up is required.
8 Refine the shape with the

spokeshave, paying particular
attention the grain – always work so
that the grain is rising away from you.
The top of each leg has a rounded
profile while the underside is flat with
eased edges. I like to leave some of
the saw marks on the underside. 7 8

Power woodworking
Cutting the sliding dovetail down to the dovetail base. Then pare
9 Mark out the dovetail shoulder

on the leg faces using a cutting
gauge. Deeply score the shoulder
away the waste, paying attention to
the grain direction.
line 16mm from the end of the leg. Cutting the dovetail grooves
in the pedestal
10 Using a mortise gauge, mark the
root of the tail (the narrow end)
13mm wide in the centre of the end.
12 The first step is to divide the
base of the pedestal into thirds.
Take one of the legs and using it as a
template draw two lines parallel to
11 Using our tried-and-trusted

method, cut a ‘V’ notch and saw
the pedestal axis 10mm either side
of this line.
PLAN -UNDERSIDE OF TOP 470

25 13 9
Scale 1 to 8 19
6 6
19
13 50
50 76
16
330 Ø25 19 19
279 13
Ø25 32
127 Ø70
PEDESTAL GROOVES
Scale 1 to 4
83
89 PART SIDE ELEVATION
Ø368 Scale 1 to 8
16
Ø470
89 70
10
279
229
LEG TEMPLATE
Scale 1 to 4
Chamfered brace
screwed to top through
slotted screw holes
Turned spigot at pedestal

top inserted into brace
11
Grid 1 inch square
Legs 19mm thick
Legs joined to pedestal

using sliding dovetails
12

Power woodworking
13 Saw just below the rebate down

to these two lines. Pare away
the wood that is between the lines to
create a flat area where the shoulder
of the dovetail will meet the pedestal.
14 Now position one of the legs

so that it is centred on this flat
area and with a sharp pencil draw
round the tail. Repeat this process
for the other legs, marking the legs
with ‘marriage marks’.
15 Bore a 13mm hole to a depth

of 16mm (or the depth of your
tail). This will act as a stop and give
13 14
the saw a place to go.
16 Saw down on the waste side.

The deeper you can saw towards
the base of the dovetail groove the
easier it will be to remove the waste.
Remove the waste from the base of
the pedestal towards the hole using
a chisel.
17 Test the fit of the pieces as

you go – you want this to be
a hand tight fit. Under cut the top of
the hole so that the leg fits snugly into
the rebate on the pedestal. 15 16
The top
The top is made from four pieces of
quarter sawn stock – this will provide
the most stable top. Arrange the pieces
for best grain match – alternating
the direction of the growth rings will
prevent the top from cupping.
18 Joint the pieces in pairs (see

issue 2 on making a table top,
as this method almost guarantees a
perfect fit). You can take a few thin
shavings from the middle of each edge
creating a ‘spring’ joint, which gives
a tighter joint. 17 18
19 Once the glue is dried – scrape

off any squeeze out and plane
the back and front, starting with
a jack plane and finishing with the
smoother. With a pair of dividers,
scribe a diameter of 470mm from the
top side. Don’t press the point into
the centre too aggressively; we do
not want it to show.
20 Now saw out the tabletop

keeping as close to the scribe
line as possible.
19 20

Power woodworking
21 With the top in the vice, plane

the edge using either a finely set
block or a compass plane – be sure to
plane with the grain.
22 On the underside scribe a

circle 50mm from the edge;
use the table’s edge as a guide and
from the edge mark a 13mm down
from the top – this will give a 50 x
6mm chamfer. Plane this chamfer,
paying close attention to the grain.
I prefer to plane at a slight angle to
the grain so that the fibres are sliced.
21 22
The brace
23 Chamfer the ends using a hand
plane from 19mm down to 6mm
over 75mm length and chamfer the
sides at 45° so that they intersect at
the corners. Drill a 25mm hole in the
centre of the brace to house the tenon
on the pedestal. Drill six countersunk
holes to attach the base to the table
top with steel screws. The holes in the
brace should be elongated to allow
for seasonal changes.
Finishing and assembly

24 Sand all parts prior to assembly.
To achieve a smooth pedestal,
sand this section by placing it back in
23 24
the lathe and use 120, 180, 230 grit

abrasives. Remove the pedestal from
the lathe and finish sanding with the
grain with 320 grit paper. Cut a slot
in the top of the tenon perpendicular
to the grain and position the tenon
in the brace hole so that the slot is
perpendicular to the brace’s grain.
Getting these orientations wrong may
result in wood splitting – glue in a
very thin wedge and hammer it into
the slot – don’t overdo it! Finally, sand
with 320 grit. Don’t be frugal with the
amount of time spent sanding. Ease the
edges of the table top with the 320 grit
paper. Give the ‘shins’ of the legs 25 26
a final sanding at 320 grit.
Assembling the legs Sanding Michael T Collins

This is perhaps the easiest part – Sanding is all about removing the
British-born Michael
simply apply glue to the leading edge scratches from the previous grit
has been working with
of the dovetail groove and slide the leg and much like painting, the biggest
wood off and on for
into position. The glue will be smeared challenge is to know when to stop.
The easiest way to know is to remove 40 years. He moved to
down the length of the groove. New York in 1996 and
all the dust with mineral spirits and
look to see if the surface has the ‘touch’ over the years, has made bespoke
25 Give the whole table a light

sanding and then finish with
three coats of natural Danish oil,
that you want. furniture, including clocks, inlay work,
Adams fireplaces, book cases and
reproduction furniture.
lightly sanding with 320 grit between
each coat. Attach the pedestal and
brace assembly to the top with
26 Finally light a candle, pull up a
chair and settle down to read a
book, contented by a hard day’s work
Web:
www.sawdustandwoodchips.com
Twitter: @sawdustandwood
steel screws. in the fields… I mean workshop. ■

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051_WWC_013.indd 51 3/22/16 12:58 PM

Power woodworking
My ‘temporary’ router table based on a bedside cabinet The plunge bars and fine adjuster worked well enough,
and kitchen worktop but were inconvenient to use
Evolution of a
ROUTER TABLE
Walter Hall looks at the evolution of his router table
O
ver the years I must have read Original table supposed to counter the bending
hundreds of descriptions of My first router table was made from caused by the weight of the router
home-made router tables 18mm plywood with a metal insert. and thus result in a flat surface. It
and looked with envy at the elaborate The insert, like many others, had a set did not achieve this well and while
proprietary offerings available, some of rings to vary the hole size to suit the it was fine for many tasks, anything
– once the cost of the router itself is cutter and for a while this was fine, but involving fine accuracy was more
added – costing nearly as much as a when the day came that I needed to problematic. The router was attached
small spindle moulder. Many of these, use a large panel moulding cutter the to the plate with setscrews and it was
both made and purchased, claim to limitations became all too apparent. quite a performance to remove it from
be the ‘ultimate’ router table, but for This led to the rapid development of under the table and the adjustment
me the ultimate router table is the a table with a larger insert set into an was by means of plunge bars and the
one that does the job I want it to do. offcut of kitchen worktop mounted on machine’s own fine adjuster from
For that reason, my router tables have a base that had once been a bedside under the table. Something better
evolved over the years to suit a diverse cabinet. This ‘temporary’ arrangement was called for.
range of uses and this article traces lasted for about ten years and was the
the development of my current table, table I used for my machinery series Improvements
which draws ideas from many sources. article in Woodworking Plans I decided to stick with the ‘bedside
I do not claim that it is the ultimate, & Projects. cabinet’ base as this was quite robust,
but it suits my purpose well enough This table, however, had some but fitted a larger top that was hinged
and I hope it will give you some ideas major shortcomings. The insert to give better access to the router. The
for your own table or even inspire you was deliberately designed by the top was made of two layers of MDF,
to improve upon it. manufacturer with a camber that was a base layer 18mm thick into which
A Router Raizer adjus ng mechanism A collet extended allows bit changing T-tracks were installed for the new fence
was fi ed from above the table
WWC_13_52_53_ROUTER_TABLE_WH_bdABWHSD.indd 52 14/03/2016 10:11

Hand woodworking
The first modified top with full length inserts The router is held in place by its fence bars and turn buttons
the router was inset and a 10mm top liked for out-of-table use and revert simply held in place with clamps as
surface in three sections. I considered to the standard handles. I am sure req uired, but the shorter length of the
a laminate surface, but decided that that some people find the plunge bar Trend fence meant that t-track runners
wood slides well enough on MD F, design convenient, but I find that with were req uired. This, in turn, resulted
so why go to the extra effort and the addition of the fine adju stment that in the abandonment of the full length
expense. The centre section of the top is possible with the Router Raiz er, the insert concept. The inserts being cut
consisted of interchangeable full length original handles suit my methods of down to fit between the runners and
inserts with different siz ed holes to working much better. the outer sections fixed permanently
suit various siz es of cutter. These had Although the router base is partly in place. The use of bearing guided
the great advantage over the previous inset into the underside of the table, cutters for edge mouldings, etc. is
insert in that they were fl at and thus the thickness of the table means that facilitated by the drilling of holes in
cuts could be made with greater a collet extender is needed with some the inserts to locate a lead in post.
accuracy. A length of t-track was also cutters. This also greatly facilitates The addition of a home-made MD F
installed for feather boards and ji gs. cutter changing which can often now feather board completes the current
The router was fitted to the base be done from above the table. setup. I do not imagine for one
using its own fence bars, an idea I moment that this is the final iteration
freely admit to copying from another Router fence in the development of my router table,
table I had seen somewhere, but My plan was to design and build a but for now I have a tool that fulfils
cannot remember where. This makes fence to replace the basic one I had my current needs and thus fulfils my
fitting or removing the machine from been using with the original table, but definition of ‘ ultimate’ for the time
the table much less of a chore. this idea was sidelined when, at the being at least. ■
The final improvement at this stage H arrogate Wo odworking and P ower
was the installation of a Router Raiz er Tool Show, Trend were selling off the
Walter Hall
lifting mechanism to enable adju stment fences from a discontinued router table Walter Hall is a
from above the table. Much more for £ 15, an offer I couldn’ t resist. The woodturner who has
elaborate and expensive router raising fence is small in relation to the table, specialised in making
devices are available, but this suited but has an adju stable outfeed fence, pens and pencils for more
my purpose and budget admirably. hold-down fingers and extraction port, than 20 years. Based on
Fitting involved some dismantling so it is deal for small accurate work the beautiful Northumberland
l d coast iin
of the router but the instructions while the original fence remains in the UK, Walter sells his bespoke pens
were well written and easy to use for larger pieces. and pencils through local craft centres
follow. The installation of the raising The installation of this fence req uired and via his website.
mechanism also allowed me to remove a rethink of the means of fixing the www.walterhall.co.uk
the plunge bars which I never much fence to the table. The old fence was
The fence t-tracks meant that smaller The inserts are drilled for a lead-in post A feather board was made from
inserts were required 18mm MDF
WWC_13_52_53_ROUTER_TABLE_WH_bdABWHSD.indd 53 18/03/2016 15:15

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054_WWC_013.indd 54 3/17/16 3:46 PM

Community
READER GROUP TEST
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Welcome to our Reader Group Test by members
of our very own Woodworker’s Institute Forum
Narex rasps
Narex rasps are produced by
Narex Bystrice, of Czechoslovakia
manufacturers of quality handtools
– mainly chisels and rasps. The rasps
come in flat, half round and round
varieties and in four lengths, from 150-
30mm except for the fine cut versions,
which are 200mm long. They feature
close spaced machine ‘stitching’ (teeth)
and hornbeam handles left bare for
extra grip and brass ferrules.
Price: From £16.96

Contact: Tomaco
Web: www.tomaco.co.uk
e asked the testers a range
W of q uestions, some of which

were graded, others needed
more articulated answers rather than
hardwoods. O ut of curiosity, I tried
them on bronz e and aluminium with
ju st scoring. We asked what was their q uite good results. The round rasp
experience using the product and if produced a very good finish when used
they had any problems using them. to enlarge round holes and grooves.
These are q uality tools and I was not
Greg McAteer: A gentle stroke can disappointed by their performance.
modify the aggressiveness of the
rasp, so as to remove a small amount. Ted Charlton: I own a very old
Ge tting a good final finish using 150mm half round rasp, maker considerably. I got a good final finish
abrasives after using the N arex rasp unknown. It will get retired now. using abrasives, using 12 0 grit to start,
was no problem at all. I liked the rasps The N arex rasps were far superior; through to 3 2 0 grit.
and they were easy to use. Although they removed material from all
in no way a problem, the handles are types of wood including maple SCORES – out of 10
‘wor kmanlike’ r ather than attractive. ( Acer saccharum) , oak ( Quercus Product Performance 8/10/10/10/8
robur) , cherry ( Prunus avium) , sapele Ease of Use 10/9/10/10/10
Colin Parr: I had previously used a ( Entandrophragma cylindricum) and Product Overall 8/9/10/9/8
standard half round file, but this was several softwoods. My only concern
a very slow process. The N arex rasps was the q uality of the ferrules on the
removed material very q uickly and handles. The ferrule on the half round Editor’s Comment:
efficiently. I tried sanding after using rasp had split from top to bottom Narex are aware of some splitting
the N arex, using 12 0 grit and this was and was opening out. The round ferrules and have checked their
successful. The rasps come with an unit showed signs of a hairline factory production to ensure this is
ergonomically-shaped handle, that crack but it had not opened. just an isolated problem; the ones
allows you to control the movement supplied to me were perfect. I’ve used
effectively. Duncan Hooper: I haven’ t used Narex rasps and found them to be
standard rasps or surform tools, excellent quality tools at a reasonable
John Hodgson: B oth the round and but after trying these N arex rasps price. Far better ‘stitched’ teeth than
the half round rasps worked extremely I will be thinking of something to on most standard rasps, with real ‘bite’
well on acrylic, African blackwood make using them. U sing N arex rasps and a reasonable surface finish before
( Dalbergia melanoxylon) and other has improved my working methods using abrasives.
If you would like to be part of our panel of product testers, please go to our website
www.woodworkersinsitute.com – and SIGN UP NOW!
WWC_13_55_GROUP_TEST_NAREX_bdABSD.indd 55 14/03/2016 10:12

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056_WWC_013.indd 56 3/22/16 2:42 PM

Power woodworking
WOODWORKING GEOMETRY
Simon Rodway takes a look at building porches
n modern housing, the porch has the dual function and sometimes had two storeys, the upper storey being
I of emphasising and enhancing the main entrance

to the building and provides an intermediate, more
sheltered space between the exterior and interior.
used for storage, meetings and even as accommodation.
Many of the great medieval barns had huge timber
porches and their architectural influence can be seen on
Porches range from simple mono-pitch canopy porches, many modern houses. In parts of the US, a porch can be
which basically keep the rain off, to fully glazed spaces, the full-length of the building, usually referred to as a
which help to prevent heat loss and even provide veranda in the UK. The veranda – from Hindi (veranda)
additional storage and a place to remove coats, boots, – is more usually seen in hotter climates and is popular
etc. Early examples of the porch – Latin (porticus) in India, Australia, the southern US, although a glazed
meaning colonnade – can be seen on medieval churches, type is also common in Poland. ■
Smaller porches rely heavily on the strength of the wall of the

house and are relatively simple and lightweight structures
931
46 22
22
58
670
Simple rafters carry tile

battens and notch over
a plate above the side
Infill panels and decorative panels, which include
mouldings can be added to decorative trim 1598 100
give the basic structure
a particular style. Here the
suggestion is classical
Timber supports will

either be left open or
include panels or trellis
type infill for greater
FLAT ROOF weather protection and
additional decoration 120
100
19
228
HALF SECTION
365
Scale 1 to 20
MONO PITCH ROOF
Many porches are semi or fully glazed to

provide an additional room and a buffer
space between interior and exterior for better
Brick plinth protects timber heat retention in houses. An early English
HIP ROOF structure from excessive timber frame style is popular with this type
moisture damage
Finial
Gallows bracket
Structurally the simplest type of porch, the canopy porch,

is supported by a pair of gallows brackets cantilevered
from the wall. This type of porch can be used with other
roof types, including the hipped and mono pitch roofs
shown above. The example shown is typical of Victorian
‘Gothic’ style houses, with a steep pitch, ornate barge
board and heavily worked finial
CANOPY PORCH GLAZED/SEMI GLAZED PORCH
WWC_13_57_PORCH_SR_bdABSD.indd 57 14/03/2016 10:25

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058_WWC_013.indd 58 3/18/16 11:21 AM
PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVE BISCO
Power woodworking
Nothing to
fret about
Steve Bisco shows us how Victorian fretwork
is made easy with a jigsaw and some MDF
ictorian carpenters used to fret a lot. I don’t mean
V they were worriers – I mean they were very handy

with a fretsaw. The Victorians liked plenty of
decoration and fretwork was a key feature in pavilions,
Things you will need
• Electric jigsaw with fine 5mm blade
• Sharp gouge with shallow curve
• Small flat chisel
conservatories and in their homes. It is an art that has been • 5mm drill bit
somewhat neglected in our time, which is a pity because • 120 and 400 grit abrasive
since the invention of the electric jigsaw, fretwork has never
been easier to make.
The panel in this project is intended to be displayed on
a wall indoors, so it can be made out of ordinary 12mm
MDF. For outdoor fretwork you will need to use a good
exterior MDF.
Steve Bisco
Steve Bisco is a regular contributor to our
sister magazine, Woodcarving. He has been
carving as a hobby for 30 years, specialising
in decorative carving in period styles, both
in wood and stone. He is inspired by a love
of historic buildings.
WWC_13_59_61_FRETWORK_PANEL_SB_bdABSD.indd 59 14/03/2016 10:26

Power woodworking
Design
This pattern is a
genuine Victorian design
dating from 1864. It comes from
an excellent pattern sourcebook
200 Victorian Fretwork Designs
(www.doverpublications.com).
Once you have cut your teeth on
this pattern, you may find yourself
fretting your way through
many others, of different
shapes and sizes.
1 The first step is to make a copy

of the pattern. The full panel siz e
I made is 9 00 x 3 00mm. The drawing
shown has a grid, and each q uare
represents 2 5mm, so scale the drawing
up or down to suit your req uirements.
B ecause the panel is symmetrical you
only need to make half a pattern one
side of the centreline, then you can
fl ip it over when you trace it onto the
wood. Ideally, make a digital copy on
your computer using either a scanner
or a digital camera. Make sure all the
pages have the same siz e grid sq uares
and stick them together to make the
pattern. You can make it smaller or
larger if you want. Trace it onto a panel
of 12 mm MD F using carbon paper. 1
2 D rill entry holes in the internal

voids ju st big enough for your
jig saw blade to enter – about 5mm.
Starting from these holes, turn your
jig saw towards the cutting lines, then
cut carefully along the inside edge of
the line ( don’t g et lost and cut through
a ‘s olid’ a rea!) . You will constantly
need to turn the ji gsaw round and cut
back the other way to get a clean cut
up to all the corners. O n the curves,
keep turning smoothly to avoid je rky
turns. The q uality of the finished
job will depend very much on how 2
carefully you make your ji gsaw cuts.
Scrollsaw blades
Most scroll sawn projects require a dedicated scrollsaw
machine to cut them but Steve has proved that it isn’t essential.
What you do need is the correct blade type. The small
scrollsawing pattern work well on very tight curves in thinner
material but are not strong enough or coarse enough for thicker
stock. Avoid downcutting blades as they are only for ‘faced’
material such as veneers or laminates and don’t work with
orbiting action. The best choice are standard length fine cutting Jigsaw wood blade types (L to R): Scrollsaw for cutting
wood blades apart from not cutting the tightest of curves. tight radii; downcutting for veneer or laminate
Coarse wood cutting blades are for faster cutting in thick stock coverings; fine cut wood for neater work; coarse
and therefore not suitable for scroll sawn work. Metal cutting wood cutting for thicker material.
blades with their tiny teeth should not be used on wood.

Power woodworking
3 4
3 Because you have to clamp the

board to the bench, with the part
you are cutting hanging over the edge,
it is best to leave the outside edges
in place until you have cut out all the
internal voids. This makes clamping
easier. When you have finished the
internal voids, go round the outside
and remove the edges.
4 Use a shallow gouge (preferably

No.3, 10mm) and a 5mm to 10mm
flat chisel to clean up any cuts that
are not quite right. The better your 5
jigsaw cuts, the less cleaning up you
will have to do.
5 The edges will be very ‘sharp’ at

this stage, so they need ‘softening’
with 120 grit abrasive. Rub along the
vertical surfaces to smooth off any
saw marks, then round over the
edges slightly. Finish the flat surface
with 400 grit abrasive.
6 Painting fretwork is a bit fiddly

and is best done with a 13mm flat
artists’ brush. When painting any board
it is important to paint both sides to 6
prevent warping. Paint the whole of
the back first, then work your way over
the front in sections. The paint has
a tendency to clog into the corners,
which is why you need the artists’
brush to pull surplus paint out of the
corners to keep your pattern crisp. In
this example I gave the panel two coats
of white primer undercoat and nothing
else. This gives a matte ‘plaster of
Paris’ finish that looks good against
any coloured background.
7 Your final fretwork piece should

look something like this. ■ 7

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15-128 WWC subs ad 2015.indd 62 3/22/16 2:50 PM

Power woodworking
Omni ICE
dust cyclone
PHOTOGRAPHS BY IAIN WHITTINGTON
The cyclone kit components

before assembly
Woodworker Iain Whittington

puts a mini-cyclone to the test
ike a lot of amateurs I have
L resorted to a shop-vac for the

collection of fine dust. I had
set it up with a ‘d ust cyclone separator’
bin-lid on a small 2 5ltr dustbin.
U nfortunately, although this works
as a chip separator, it is of limited value
in the collection of fine dust, as it is not
really a true cyclonic separator. Wi th a
larger market in N orth America, there
have long been manufacturers that
have down-size d commercial cyclone
extraction designs from 150mm or
The assembled cyclone test rig with
100mm to 50mm diameter pipes
extrac on hoses fi ed
for amateur use, such as O neida Air separation ‘ to 9 9 .9 % ’ , over the 9 0% of
Systems® Inc. with their D ust D eputy. their Mk 1. It comes fully assembled. and outlet hoses connected, I was
U nfortunately, by the time that type The 50mm diameter inlet/ outlet is ready to test it.
of eq uipment reaches U K, it is too ‘ nominal’ and, as I have standardised The O mni-IC E intercepted more
often unaffordable. my workshop extraction on plumbers’ dust than the bin lid separator as
As a result, when I saw a U K vendor 50mm waste pipe, I added two offcuts the former and, although good as
offering a true cyclone head for 50mm of 50mm waste, so that my 50mm a chip separator, it allowed dust to
shop-vac at about half the asking price straight waste pipe couplings were accumulate mainly in the shop-vac,
of the O neida Air systems, I went for a tight fit. while the latter dropped much of the
the O mni IC E dust cyclone. This is the It was then a simple matter of dust before the shop-vac, to the extent
company’ s second generation cyclone, finding a suitable hole saw to modify that the 9 9 % claim could well be true.
with an additional baffl e on the inlet my chosen bucket lid, before bolting Albeit, when used as a chip separator,
side that is q uoted to improve the dust the cyclone to the lid. Wi th the inlet I suspect that the turbulence associated
WWC_13_63_65_CYCLONE_TEST_IW_bdABSD.indd 63 18/03/2016 15:17

Power woodworking
A tank cu er was needed to create a hole The four cyclone moun ng holes drilled
of the right size ready to fit it together
with the heavier load is allowing which seemed less than ideal as an
more dust to remain in suspension, operating environment.
hence ending up in the shop-vac. As I had been sufficiently impressed
H owever, even as a chip separator, with the test performance I decided
there is significant magnitude less to move the cyclone to a more robust
dust on the filter than with only the 2 0ltr steel collection. Wh ile any basic The cyclone now mounted with pipe
bin-lid separator. O n the test rig I had hole-saw would cut the req uired extensions in place
used a ‘ gash’ plastic bucket for ease of aperture in a plastic lid, transferring it
set-up, but I found that my shop-vac to a steel lid req uired the use of a tank- the larger bits caught early, without
was collapsing the plastic container, cutter, which needs considerably more unduly effecting the ‘ pull’ of the shop-
care in its use, with a high torq ue, vac. Wh ile I have been using dustbin
slow speed drill ( or even the old hand lid separators for some time to catch
Technical note brace) being req uired. As it was cutting the larger waste in both my high-
There are lots of good books and mild-steel, a little oil as lubricant would pressure and low-pressure dust control
details available on workshop greatly help ( and reduce the noise systems, I had never been happy with
extraction, all of which will emphasise considerably) . their fine-dust capabilities, having
that workshop extraction is not Some basic geometry would to rely on supplementary P P E and
designed to replace PPE, but to accurately align the four holes for the freq uent cleaning of the fine filters at
supplement it. However, at the basic retaining screws, as using a compass the suction end to maintain safety and
level there are two main groups of or dividers, set at the centre hole efficiency. H owever, I am impressed
extractor – the high pressure/low radius, to ‘ step and repeat’ round the with the vast improvement that this
volume type (HPLV – e.g, shop-vac) circumference, and accurately align the mini-cyclone has introduced to my
and high volume/low pressure type four bolt holes for you. The cyclone high-pressure fine-dust collection
(HVLP e.g, twin-bag chip collectors). can was firmly seated on the new steel shop-vac set-up. Wh ile The O neida
Generalising for the home workshop lid and as a precaution I used some Air Systems® D ust D eputy can be
environment, the shop-vac systems standard builders caulk to ensure an conveniently purchased as a complete
will run best taking dust away, air-tight seal. H owever, I suspect that kit, needing minimal skill to assemble,
typically through small diameter flexi- this was overkill. Wh en collecting the combined price of the O mni D ust
hose to 50mm/2in duct-work while chips, it will still be used with the small C yclone IC E and a metal bucket comes
the chip-exctractors work through separator lid on a 2 5ltr dustbin as a in at half the price with only a few
large diameter flexi-hose to 100mm/ pre-filter, as this clearly gets a lot of tools and a little D IY needed to set up.
4in duct work. All of them can be
supplemented by a separate workshop
air-filter. The extractor/shop-vac have
a fine filter system to ‘clean’ the air
before returning it to the workshop,
however, this will be more efficient
if pre-filtration steps are taken. The
twin-bag chip extractors will benefit
from an inexpensive large dust-bin
top separator-lid as an easy to empty
bulk chip collector, unfortunately the
smaller 50mm version does not work
as well as a dust pre-filter before a
shop-vac. The large 4in separator lid
is available in UK from Camvac,
but has its limitations, so it is well
worth reading Phil Theinis web page
on its problems and cure.
Iain Whi ngton's completed cyclone extrac on system

Power woodworking
Cyclone Ac on
CYCLONE THEORY
A high-speed airflow will give particles The characteristic helical or funnel shaped
enough kinetic energy to remain suspended cyclonic airflow so established (so typical
as air-born material. The higher the speed of in nature to that of a hurricane or typhoon
the airflow the greater the energy, so the larger depending in which hemisphere one resides)
the particles it will carry. The cyclone theory starting fastest at the widest part (top) of
and design makes use of this theory, but turns the cylinder and narrowing as it slows, until
it on its head that is, by slowing an air flow it rises again straight up the centre.
in a controlled manner, you can cause By extracting the airflow from the
a controlled loss of suspended material at centre of the cylinder, this cyclonic flow
what is known as the cut-point, where particles can be perpetuated. Also, by tapering the
larger than the cut-point will be removed cylinder, control can be taken over particle
with a 50% efficiency. There is some maths precipitation, minimising the residual
associated with this geometric theory, particulates going back up the centre, which
called fractional efficiency curves (FECs), remain to be captured by the exhaust filter.
that enables a designer to work out the The dustbin separators are a cruder form,
Dustbin Lid Ac on
relationship between the airflow, the size of where the cyclonic airflow is initiated by aiming
particle and the cyclone diameter. In essence, the inlet tangentially to the bin side and leaving Airflow out to shop vac
injecting a high speed air flow into a cylinder the cyclonic airflow to establish naturally. Large
par cles
will naturally make it rotate. Wall friction will Unfortunately, with a fairly constant cylindrical enter
cyclone
slow the rate of rotation, with larger particles diameter, the cyclone geometry is fairly fixed and
being decelerated proportionally more quickly with a single fixed cut-point so much remaining se le to
bo om
than the surrounding flow, so dropping out first suspended matter is randomly dumped
before selling to the bottom into the dustbin. through turbulence than the cyclonic action.
‘Control’ test – five mins sanding with old Lots of dust on the filter bag – so much, Repeated with cyclone – dust in bucket,
dustbin lid system shop-vac with dust in it some fell off but none in shop-vac (top)
Sanding with the cyclone le the filter When the cyclone was used with thick- With the thicknesser, the filter has some
pre y much clean nesser all chippings were le in bucket dust – clean patch arrowed
THE TESTS that some fell off when it was inverted getting through to the shop-vac in the
As a control test, after installing a for evaluation. The process was then process of clearing the chips. The fine
fresh filter in my shop-vac, I used a repeated with the new IC E cyclone dust captured by the filter was less
random orbital sander for five minutes, in place, which clearly captured than initially as it remained on the
connected through my ‘ old’ dustbin the bulk of the dust in the bucket. filter when inverted. The filter was
lid separator then inspected my shop- The process was again repeated with by no means clear as can be seen
vac drum and filter. As you can see the thicknesser connected and, not from the stripe in the foreground,
there was a reasonable covering of surprisingly, it did an excellent jo b which is where I ran a vacuum cleaner
dust in the base of the cylinder. There of collecting the chippings – although over it to show the ‘ natural’ yellow
was also enough dust on the filter bag there did appear to be a little fine dust dust free colour behind. ■

:22':25.,1*
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066_WWC_013.indd 66 3/22/16 2:44 PM

Power woodworking
1
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY
Small space woodworking

Bathroom cabinet
3
The Editor finally got paint it with a first coat of a water-
based satinwood brilliant white paint.
his teeth into a small
project, but it was a 2 While that is drying start cutting the
melamine-faced board to length.
This is standard 15mm board used for
close shave shelves, etc. So long as the top face is
undamaged from cutting, any breakout
very bathroom needs a cabinet underneath won’t be seen.
E for all those ablution essentials

– toothbrush, toothpaste, razor,
shaving foam, deodorant, etc. Here is 3 Mark and drill clearance holes in
the outer face at each end of the
a simple design with a modern wipe two side panels. Note the breakout that
clean interior, but a traditional outside will be hidden. 4
appearance. I’ve finished it in two
ways, clear pine (Pinus sylvestris) or
painted to show how it can be changed
to suit the setting. The core carcass is
4 Drill a small pilot hole for each
screw, so the chipboard won’t split
apart during assembly.
standard melamine-faced chipboard
and the cladding is decorative
wainscoting that pushes together to
create the old fashioned look, that can
5 Use screws long enough to bite and
hold in the chipboard, the heads
need to be buried in the surface.
be ‘shabby chic’ed’ with a little surface
distressing if needed.
6 Now return to painting the back
panel and rub it down with medium
1 The first step is to cut a piece of

3mm thin ply, slightly oversize and
abrasive before applying a cross-wise
coat of paint. A third coat running in 5
WWC_13_67_69_BATHROOM_CABINET_AB_bdABSD.indd 67 14/03/2016 10:36

Power woodworking
7 6
489 156
7
15
140 118
15
375
7 15 15 7
445 150
389 213 3
475
15
7
SECTION SECTION
White melamine chipboard shown as white in sections and details 6
493 7 6
2
7
15
393
15
3 3
FRONT ELEVATION SECTION DETAILS

7
the other axis will be needed to give a
really good, bright white finish.
7 The shelf will be seen at the ends,

so use masking tape to reduce
breakout and mark the cut line on the
tape. Now give the melamine edges a
light abrasive rub to smooth them and
remove any unevenness.
8 Next, mark where the shelf will

go inside the carcass. The idea is
to have a large space at the bottom
for mouthwash bottles, shaving foam,
aerosols, etc. and small items like
toothpaste and makeup pads go on the
8 9
top shelf.
9 Carefully place the shelf against the

internal pencil marks and fix using
small ring nails to hold it securely.
10 Cut the wainscot boards for

the top and bottom to length,
matching the overall width of the
cupboard.
11 Now, cut the outer boards

narrower to match the melamine
chipboard. This will remove both the
tongue on one board and the groove
on the other one. Plane the front
edges smooth. 10 11

Power woodworking
12 Bond the top and bottom boards

using a heavy grade of adhesive
mastic. Make sure the front edges and
the ends are flush with the carcass.
Note that they must overhang at the
back to hide the back panel.
13 Use plenty of clamps to hold all

the pieces in place. The ends
overlap the top and bottom boards.
Be careful not to get any mastic on the
outer faces of the wainscot pine.
14 To be quite sure that the middle

of the boards is pulled down,
you could use a luggage strap with
12 13
some pieces of cardboard to protect

the edges to hold it all together until
the mastic has set.
15 The previously painted back

panel needs to be trimmed to
size so it fits tightly in the space created
by the wainscot upstand. This will
help to ensure the cabinet is rigid and
square. A piece of A4 paper makes a
good square to mark out with. A flat
carpenters’ pencil will actually run
against the paper edge – believe it
or not....
14 15
16 Fix the panels firmly using small
ring nails that won’t pull out
(handy for hanging as the panel won’t
detach). Be careful to centre the nails
roughly in the middle of the chipboard
carcass so no breakout occurs inside
the cabinet.
17 The door consists of wainscot

glued to birch (Betula pendula)
ply backing to hold it all together. The
rustic look is helped by using small
T-hinges, but there is no way the hinge
will fix to the cabinet side so they are
simply cranked by hammering to shape
in a vice.
16 17
18 This is how the hinges will

sit, they need short blackened
screws to fix them in place and a black
knob at the other side of the door
and a magnetic catch inside to close
the door.
19 Bare pine is rather out of

fashion at the moment, but I
think one version with just a varnish
finish should look good, but there is
always the ‘shabby chic’ alternative.
Fix the cabinet to the wall with screws
and plugs and put all your bath time
essentials inside and ready for use! ■
18 19

Community
Woodland ways
Bat box instruction and

making with the Scouts
(some neglected). The wood covers

two stream valleys and intervening
Woodland spurs/ridges and contains part of a lake

and other small seasonal ponds/wet
flushes. Some features may prove
noteworthy historically. The mix is of
ownership broadleaved and coniferous trees with

some internal open/semi-open areas,
past planting schemes have augmented
the wood. The wood’s designations
– 40 Acre wood are: Plantation on Ancient Woodland

Site (PAWS) and ASNW (Ancient
Semi-Natural Woodland – in the stream
valleys that were inter-planted with
now very tall poplars). Lying between
Woodland expert Gary Marshall looks at the 44m and 70m above MSL, the wood
is part of the complex mosaic of
pros and cons of owing your own woodland habitats and landscapes of the High
Weald AONB. It’s not readily visible
’ve met with many woodland • www.woodlandtrust.org.uk or prominent from nearby settlements,
I owners, both individuals and

organisations. As every wood’s
unique, so are the owners! I’m not,
• www.wildlifetrusts.org
Local authorities have information
pertinent to woodland owners too.
but is crossed by two public footpaths
and one bridleway.’
therefore, going to suggest how to Questions and answers

own a wood here. Legislation covering Background I asked Robin and Diana some
felling, ancient woodlands, H&S, land So, I’m featuring ‘40 Acre Wood’ questions about their ownership
use, etc. is best left to specialist books, because; it’s owned by Robin and of 40 Acre Wood...
training, experience and officialdom. Diana, a splendid couple I’ve known
Thus woodland purchase shouldn’t be for years; I had a hand in the Why/how did you become owners?
undertaken lightly or on a whim. For management plan – and I visit several Because of a once-in-a-lifetime
the ‘woodland ownership minded’, times a year. opportunity, we felt that a family
here are some websites that at least Here’s an idea of the wood cribbed inheritance should be invested in a
give a starting point as to what may from the Management Plan: ‘Vehicular long-term, worthwhile and tangible
affect woodland owners: access is shared with a water treatment venture. Then the wood came up
• www.forestry.gov.uk works, this leads from the road, 0.5km for sale, just a couple of miles away.
• www.smallwoods.org.uk away, to the wood’s entrance gate. The We’d always wanted to buy a wood for
• www.cla.org.uk surrounding countryside is mixed various reasons: conservation, peace,
• www.nfu.org.uk woodland, farmland and orchards fun, education, community and youth
WWC_13_70_71_WOODLAND_WAYS_GM_bdABGMSD.indd 70 18/03/2016 15:19

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MARSHALL
Community
It wasn’t clear how much of the lake was included Fun and sustenance in the woods
involvement (scouts, special events, weeks to complete from the date of is essential for all woodland owners,
surveys, bushcraft, green woodcraft, our accepted pre-auction bid. We particularly where public rights of way
etc.). It’s great for our dogs and wanted this wood and ‘wrong-footed’ cross the wood. In the end it was a
children too and fits with our green potential competition that might have toss-up between compound policies
ethos too – supplying our sustainable arisen at open auction by putting in with CLA and NFU.
fuel. Our ownership’s more like our acceptable bid first.
‘stewardship’ – we intend passing the H&S?
wood on to future generations in a What’s the best thing (so far) H&S/PPE and working practices are
better state than when we bought it. as owners? covered in the management plan.
Diana: Our 25th wedding anniversary, We reassess when we work in the
What was the first thing you tackled in the wood! woods and particularly for group
after gaining ownership? Robin: Not just one thing but many: activities. Rights-of-way are way-marked
Sorted out access. The vehicular space, peace, precious memories, and kept clear and bridges maintained.
entrance was unusable; there were nature, fun, family, friends, BBQs, Areas where woodland work’s being
trees down over the rights of way. woodland crafts. Both Diana and carried out are taped off and signed.
We cleared these and after that we laid I were brought up surrounded by Fire notices are by the main entrance
inert hardcore material (courtesy of woods and we want to ensure that and extinguishers on-site when fires
the waterworks) along an inadequate, our children and other people have are lit. There’s a deep water sign (that
dangerous, rutted track to a central such opportunities. occasionally goes missing) by the lake.
clearing. This is now ‘base camp’ and
parking for our activities. Did you walk the wood and know To Be Continued…..
its boundaries before purchase?
Yes. There was uncertainty about
Did you look at other woods
before buying 40 Acres? parts of the boundary, as much is not
Gary Marshall
Gary has had a life-long
Not many. They were either too far fenced, although, adjoining grazed interest in woodlands
away, too flat, monocultures, small fields are fenced by farmers. It wasn’t and the countryside. He
lots from larger estates, had access/ clear how much of the lake was trained in countryside
covenant problems, or for sale through included or where the wood ended, management and
a large company with whom we where it ran into a derelict orchard. subsequently ran a company working
weren’t comfortable. Land Registry investigation helped with the local County Councils
us define our borders. and Unitary Authority and their
Was the idea of ownership daunting? Countryside and Rights of Way
Yes! But we like a challenge – as did Insurance? Teams, as well as a wide range of
the solicitor that we chose for the We shopped around and read the conservation organisations.
purchase. We only had a matter of small print. Public liability insurance
A sustainable source of fuel Another hands-on group activity
WWC_13_70_71_WOODLAND_WAYS_GM_bdABGMSD.indd 71 18/03/2016 15:19

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072_WWC_013.indd 72 3/21/16 4:20 PM

Power woodworking
Salt & pepper

container
John Swinkels says: “If you want

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SWINKELS
salt and pepper – just push it!”
What you will need

• Small bandsaw
• Drill press
y younger son owns a small holes. To be sure the top and
M bone-shaped stainless steel

salt and pepper container.
The top half of the container rotates to
bottom stay aligned, clamp them
together before drilling the three
holes. D rill through the top half and
• Forstner bit
• Small bit
• Disc sander
• Table saw
expose the seasoning. Wi th two fingers ⅔ of the way into the lower section. • Gouge
you pick up what you need and use • Mallet
it according to your preference to
season your food. I decided to make
a wooden one from a piece of camphor
2 N ext, cut out the 9 mm MD F
template with the design glued
on and sand the edges. Wi th the
• Cordless drill
• Sanding implement
• Paint brush
laurel ( Cinanmomum camphora) . Forstner bit, drill 54mm holes in the • Carving knife
The lid – which will be identical to circles and sand all internal edges • Detail gouge on the lathe
the base – will not be a loose fit, but it smooth. Also drill the three 4mm holes • Adhesive
will be held to the base by small rare marked out. P osition the template on • Skewers
• Hobby tool with small sanding drum
earth magnets, enabling the lids to the inside of both the timber sections
• Rotary rasp
twist open. by using the bamboo skewers and
• Foredom cutter
then trace on the insides of the circles • Sanding drum
Design and along the outside of the template
I drew my design on the computer to using a blue biro.
the dimensions given. My wood was
limited to a length of 3 2 0mm and it
was 7 2 mm sq uare. Gl ue one copy of
the design to 9 mm thick MD F, serving
as a template. The big circles in the
design will be hollowed out and the
three small circles are positions for
4mm diameter holes.
1 First, cut the 7 2 mm blank

lengthways down the middle and
tape the two parts together. Gl ue a
printed design to the top half. Wi th a
centre punch give the drill bit starting
points in the three positions for the 1 2
WWC_13_73_75_SALT_&_PEPPER_SHAKER_JS_bdABSD.indd 73 14/03/2016 10:47

Power woodworking
3 The bamboo skewers will ensure 180

that top and bottom section will be
aligned when it comes to turning the
assembled ( glued) pair on the lathe,
Ø66 Ø54
but you need to know where to use
the drive and tail centres. To locate
the spots, place a pair of steel rulers 31
up against the skewers and, with a 47
biro, mark on both ends 4mm wide
sections where the centres will need
to grip the blank. U se a knife to cut
out small 4mm wide ‘ V’ -shaped chips
at the marked places. 162
SALT AND PEPPER SHAKER TEMPLATE
4 Shape the hollows with a 19 mm
Stanley gouge with a shallow
curvature. The hollow on the left
has been roughed out as the gouge
was driven in with a mallet. If you
have no experience in carving it
is worthwhile practising on some
scrapwood. You need to start in the
centre and gradually work outwards,
with or across the grain. For the hollow
on the right I put the mallet aside and
carefully pared high parts away. Fingers
are sensitive and can feel where bits
have to be removed. Pu sh with your
right hand and shoulder while
restraining the tool with your left
hand to result in a controlled paring 3 4
away of unwanted wood.
5 For this next step, I use a spherical

homemade drawer knob for
smoothing the hollows – I added
a metal stem so I could hold it in
my cordless drill. Sand the hollowed
out areas. Start with 6 0 grit abrasive
to q uickly even out the hills and
hollows in the carved surfaces. I follow
that with the 12 0 grit abrasive and
finished with 2 40 grit. Sand until all
biro lines have gone.
6 On the bandsaw cut away most of

the waste wood, to approximately
1mm outside the guidelines. Apply
5
two coats of gloss white acrylic paint
to the hollows and allow to dry. This
paint will act as a good basis for the
salt and pepper. I advise painting part
of the outside, to show up during the
turning on the lathe.
7 N ext, apply wood glue to

approximately half of the
rectangular end sections. U se skewers
again to keep the two pieces aligned.
L eave the glue to dry overnight.
Although the adhesive is probably
enough to hold the parts together
I used some wiggle nails in both
ends for extra strength.
6 7

Power woodworking
Turning
8 The small holes cut at the ends for
the supports ensure you get the
drive centre ( at the head stock end)
and the pointed tail centre support
( at the other end) in the desired
positions. U se a 12 mm fingernail
profile bowl gouge to turn the desired
shape for the container. K eep cutting
until the previously painted areas are
removed. N ext, sand using 12 0 grit
to 400 grit abrasive.
9 N ext, using the bandsaw with the

fence as support slice 4mm thick
parts from both spherical sections on
8
both sides. The resulting fl at areas are

needed later for support during the
sanding of the ends.
10 C ut away the glued waste

sections from both ends up to
the biro lines and sand again until level.
11 N ow, enlarge the 4mm holes

at both ends to 8mm. Tape
some masking tape around the drill
bit 10mm up from the widest part near
the business end of the bit. D rill into
some scrap wood up to the tape and
check the depth of the hole. H old one 9
j ob section loosely under the spinning
bit until it centres on the hole and then
hold it firmly to drill a 10mm deep
hole. Repeat on the other three holes.
12 N ext, use the drillpress to push

the magnets into the holes as
follows. C lamp a drill bit in the chuck
upside down with its fl at end showing,
attached an 8mm cylindrical magnet to
it and push that into a hole until it is
0.5mm below the surface of the wood.
At the other end of the same section
push a magnet with reverse polarity
down. In the second half of the
container, push the magnets in so the 10 11
two job sections will attract each other
one way and repel each the other way.
13 N ow for the centre magnets.

They are a fraction less than
15mm in diameter and 5mm thick.
The hole in the centre of the magnet
is 5mm. Again, drill the holes ( with a
15mm Forstner bit) using the same
method as step 11, so that the magnets
end up 0.5mm below the surface.
The magnets should be a tight fit, but
if they are not push a piece of bamboo
skewer from below into the 4mm holes
and dribble a few drops of superglue
into the holes inside the magnets.
On ce dry, they should be immoveable.
12 13

Power woodworking
Handy hints
1. Rare earth magnets are very
useful. I have used them on the end
of long dowels to pick up dropped
screws (even a spanner). Another
use is to hold the lid of a box on its
base. I have used them to suspend
homemade knives after I had applied
varnish to the wood. A small magnet
attached to a metal light fitting will
hold the knife by the tip of the blade
2. I like to use acrylic varnish.

Brushed on very thinly it will make a 14 15
good finish as well as being suitable
for objects that are handled a lot.
It also dries very quickly
3. Wiggle nails were once used in

picture frames. They can still be
useful for temporary fastening as
I did on this project
Also push pieces of tight-fitting

bamboo skewers into the holes below
the 8mm magnets and trim them close
with wire sidecutters. 16
14 For the axle use a short section

of 4.5mm brass rod. You may
have to re-drill the holes that are filled
with bamboo to make room for the
brass rod. Make sure that the rod only
goes down into both halves by about
10mm. Remove the bamboo stumps
still sticking out with a hobby tool
with a small sanding drum fitted.
15 To avoid getting clear acrylic

varnish inside the hollows
hold a smooth rubber ball firmly as
shown and with a tiny brush apply the
finish around the ball. Some may still
creep into the hollows, but that can
17 18
be removed with a tissue. After the
first coat has dried sand the surface,
removed dust and apply a second
coat and once more do the same with
17 Shape the four notches and
when the sections are together
it is much easier to twist the top and
John Swinkels
After 11 years of
turning, John still
the third coat. rotate it so the lower hollows with their considers himself an
contents are accessible. The rasp left advanced beginner, as he
16 The magnets I bought are almost

too effective – it is not easy to
counteract the holding power of the
a fairly good surface on my container,
but I improved it with a Foredom
abrading tool and a small sanding
i
continues to learn and experiment
various techniques. He has combined
turning with leather and incorporated
t with
ith
strong rare earth magnets and to rotate drum. The sections are now ready pewter as a decorative element. John
the top section. Should yours be the to apply a finish. says that the possibilities are unlimited
same, to make the swivel easier use and the enjoyment of the practice is
18
a cylindrical rasp in the drill press to Apply three coats of finish, still there, especially as much of it is
create four notches. Rearrange the sanding and dusting off between done in the company of other more
pulleys to turn up the speed, lock the the coats and leave to dry. Your final talented turners.
position of the chuck lower down and salt and pepper container should now
rasp and then sand four notches. look something like this. ■

"Out of trust,
I only work with
THE ORIGINAL"
- Josche Frankenberger, prop maker and
furniture designer
www.fein.com/original
New range of FEIN oscillating tools now with:
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077_WWC_013.indd 77 3/22/16 2:36 PM

Community
ANTHONY BAILEY
Ask the Experts Editor,

Woodworking
Crafts Magazine
MARK BAKER
This is your chance to challenge our Editors and Group Editor,
GMC woodworking
for them to answer your comments and queries magazines
★
A PLACE OF MY OWN
“ I’m wondering about building my own timber-framed

and clad garage/workshop because a) I’m quite good at basic
woodwork, and b) I like the idea of using timber instead of
brick or block. I realise there are some things to consider,
STAR
QUE
STIO
N
maybe you can give me a few pointers?
Gerry Caswell
Anthony replies: As you rightly

” A proper planning application
surmise there is a bit more to this with drawings was passed
than just knocking some frames first time
together and cladding it. I’ve done
this myself about 17 years ago and
the building is still standing solid
even if the space inside has got eaten
up with everyone’s stuff!
First you need to check whether
planning permission is needed, this
depends partly on the size of the
building, i.e. its volume. This is more
restricted if you are in a conservation
area. My own building was limited in
width because there had to be a metre
wide pathway to one side. Next check
that building controls don’t apply,
it is not domestic accommodation
so that should be okay. You need to
submit a design to your local planning
department, I drew my own design and
it passed first time. Don’t necessarily
follow neighbourhood structures in
appearance but do something that may
enhance the area. I chose a mansard
style roof which doesn’t go up too
high but still gives good overhead
This is the resulting, now mature building 17 years later
storage. You may not care for brick glazed units for windows and a plastic
but you need a good solid concrete membrane, insulation and chipboard
base and dwarf brick walls to keep tongue and groove flooring if you want
the wood well off the ground. It can to do the job properly. Then of course
be largely hidden by the cladding as you mustn’t forget electrics and decent
I have done. You need a good strong lighting. Lastly, a lesson hard learnt
framework of treated structural grade is to check that your neighbours are
timbers with diagonal bracing to keep happy about your proposal before
Electricity supply is important here it all rigid. You will need a vapour you submit plans. Keep them on side
supplied on a strung catenary barrier under the cladding, batts of or your dream workshop may get
wire support insulation in all the spaces, double rejected by the planners!
WWC_13_78_79_Q&A_bdABSD.indd 78 18/03/2016 15:22

Community
DEALING WITH TEAROUT
“ I am getting tearout on the end grain boxes areas of boxes

when using a spindle gouge and wonder what I can do to make it
easier and reduce the likelihood of this happening. I usually use
ash (Fraxinus excelsior), sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) and
spalted beech (Fagus sylvatica)
David Evans
”
Mark replies: David, I think I know what may be
happening and can show a cut that will help no end with
the timbers you are using. However, the spalted beech
might be more than just the presentation angle of a gouge,
you are probably encountering some soft (rotten) areas
of wood and this is likely to tear out when cutting it. You
need to stabilize this with CA (cyanoacrylate adhesive) or
sanding sealer and letting it dry before making the any the wood, and as you progress the cut, arc the cutting
cuts on the surface. edge down into wood until you eventually reach the centre.
So, the cut requires you to have the toolrest set at such Note the position of the cut on the cutting edge and also
a height as to have it just below centre, now place the gouge how you are riding – the bevel is rubbing against the surface
on the rest and have the handle low. The cutting edge of the timber and also the ridge. This peeling cut is helpful
should now be above centre, enter the wood so the cut to learn and is a fundamental cut to know for bowl faceplate
occers on the leading edge of the gouge – note how is peels and spindle work to minimize tearout. I hope this helps.
MIND THE FINISH!
“ We own several nice pieces of antique furniture, inherited from my parents.

I believe it is considered wrong to use spray polishes but are there other things I need
to be careful with? One piece of furniture is supposed to be an Edwardian mahogany
(Khaya ivorensis) sideboard. My partner says it can’t be mahogany because it is such
a light straw colour, but I tried a bit of polish reviver on a small area and it suddenly
turned a pinky red colour. Will it be alright or have I damaged it?
Julie Fordham
Anthony replies: This is really two
questions in one. Firstly any polish
”
piece of furniture and blending in
was a challenge because the light Only use light coloured furniture wax
spray or paste that contains silicone straw colour you describe was actually without any silicon content
can cause surface damage and should very pale French polish. The aged
be avoided. If you feel the need to waxy content was creating a sort
polish then choose a pure beeswax of filter, making the salmon pink
polish, restorers use hardening waxes mahogany look very pale indeed.
which can be used with care as you Hopefully, if you haven’t used very
need to buff them off completely much reviver, in time the test area
before they harden, although a further will lighten again to match the rest
coat will soften the previous wax of the surface patina.
coat again. Regarding the sideboard, A last thought, my safe answer to
after the heavy dark ‘clumpy’ look of polishing isn’t wax, but an old worn
late Victorian furniture, as is so often black sock! I use this to clean furniture
the case fashions changed and both at home and after less than ten
design and finish lightened. When I minutes, it changes from black to grey The safest option if the wood already
was a furniture restorer I had to repair as you can see here, as it picks up all has a finish in place, is to use a black
the mahogany veneers on a similar the accumulated household dust. sock to pick up dust
★
If you have anything to say, write to:
STAR T Tool Marketing Company, or TOMACO, as it is known, who sell a
The
The Editor, Woodworking Crafts, 86 High
N
QUESTIO
variety
v of tool brands, including COLT, Sharp Edge and Narex Tools, are
Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN.
E pleased to be sponsoring the ‘Ask the experts’ section in collaboration
PRIZ with
w GMC Publications.
Alternatively, email: anthonyb@
thegmcgroup.com
Each issue’s ‘Star Question Prize’ will receive a Narex six-piece chisel set By submitting your questions and photos, you agree that GMC
worth
wort £79.95 and all other published questions will Publications may publish your Work in our magazines, websites,
electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the
receive a 20mm half-round fine cut Narex rasp worth £20.95. future. In addition GMC may sell or distribute the Work, on its
For more information see www.tomaco.co.uk own, or with other related material. This material must not have
been submitted for publication elsewhere
WWC_13_78_79_Q&A_bdABSD.indd 79 14/03/2016 10:50

15-130 WWC app ad F/P.indd 80 3/22/16 2:56 PM
Hand woodworking
Q U I C K M A K E
Wooden doormat
If you’re looking for something a bit different
for a doormat, how about a wooden one?
T
he deep spaces in this mat
give grip for footwear and
somewhere for mud to drop
4 Drill through each slat with a
drill slightly larger than the rope
size. Use a piece of sacrificial board
in, you can then lift it and sweep the underneath to protect your bench. 3
dried mud away easily. Use 50 x 25mm
prepared teak (Tectonia grandis)
or iroko (Milicia excels) for their
toughness in outdoor conditions.
5 Use natural fibre rope, as it knots
easily without coming undone
and it looks more in keeping with the
They are slightly waxy feeling woods, wood. Tape the end to keep it small
but be careful of the wood dust as it enough to feed through the holes.
can be an irritant.
1 Cut enough pieces to length; six to

eight slats are needed to make the
6 Make a tight knot at the outside
edge and knot between each slat,
working at both ends each time. Finish
doormat wide enough and the length off with a tight knot when you get to
needs to be between 520–600mm. the other end. Now you can give your
old doormat the boot! ■ 4
2 Improve the look of the ends by

chamfering them with a block plane
at a roughly 45° angle. Sand the long
sharp edges with a sanding block to
avoid nasty splinters.
3 At about 90mm in from each end

make a mark and use a trysquare to
draw a line right across all of the pieces.
Now mark the centre of each face on
the pencil line, so you can drill in the
middle each time.
5 6
WWC_13_81_WOODEN_DOORMAT_AB_bdABSD.indd 81 14/03/2016 10:52

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LINCOLNSHIRE WOODCRAFT SUPPLIES

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Specialist in High Quality Turning Blanks in Both Homegrown and
Exotic Timbers. Over 60 timbers in stock.
OPEN 9.00AM - 4.30PM MON - FRI
9.00AM - 1.00PM SAT
Send six First Class stamps for our
NEW MAIL ORDER CATALOGUE
FOR EXPERT ADVICE CONTACT: ROBIN STOREY
THE OLD SAW MILL, BURGHLEY PARK,
LONDON ROAD, STAMFORD, LINCS PE9 3JS
TEL: 01780 757825
NEW WEBSITE: WWW.LINCOLNSHIREWOODCRAFT.CO.UK
Whether you have one log or hundreds

we’ll come to you and cut exactly
what you need for your next project.
For all your ideas in wood... starting right from the log is
both cost effective and satisfying. Bringing the sawmill to NAREX - FLEXCUT - CHESTNUT PRODUCTS - LIBERON
you gets you hands on right at the start of your project!
mobile: 07577 483625
William Ellis email: [email protected]
web: www.mobilesawmill.co.uk
Durable British grown European larch can also be cut and

supplied to your requirements - ask for details.
E-MAIL: [email protected] WWW.JUSTWOODONLINE.CO.UK
SURREY TIMBERS Ltd

Your One-Stop Wood Shop
Hardwood Timber Merchant
stocking local & Imported Timber
QH Fine Tools that Inspire! www.sterlingtoolworks.com

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Please come & select from our range:
Ple
OAK, YEW, WALNUT, SAPELE, APPLE, MAPLE
JOIN US ON
SYCAMORE & More!
FACEBOOK
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for regular
07795 663792 01483 457826 updates!
www.shop.surreytimbers.co.uk WoodworkersInstitute
86 www.woodworkersinstitute.com TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL RUSSELL: 01273 402841
WWC_Classifieds.indd 86 3/22/16 3:03 PM

Classifieds
INSPIRATIONAL COURSES
for ASPIRATIONAL AMATEURS
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+44 (0) 1444 480388 | SUSSEX
LDEN TOO
ALL OLD WOODTURNING EA Router cutters
W
Spindle tooling
CO
MPAN Y
TOOLS WANTED CNC tooling/collets/toolholders
Bandsaw blades, jigsaw blades
Circular saw blades
Also wanted - all woodworking
hand tools and anvils. www.wealdentool.com
Very best prices paid for Norris planes.

Would you like to advertise your business to a
Please contact Tony Murland wide network of woodworkers and hobbyists alike?
Telephone: 01394 421323
Contact Russell Higgins 01273 402841
Email: [email protected] or [email protected]
Visit our website at www.hobby.uk.com
Old exotic timber and veneers for sale

The Modelmaker’s
Yearbook £ 3.25
Annual 2016 • No.46 • 320 Pages P&P FREE
• NEW EASY CUTTERS & POWER TOOLS
• MECHANICAL ALARM CLOCK KIT DOLLS Veneers include:
• NEW ICONIC TV/FILM KITS HOUSE
• HERITAGE STEAM ENGINE SPECIALISTS ȈͳǤͷǦȋ͵ͲͲȌ
• MARQUETRY KITS WITH DVD MATCHITECTURE
ONE THOUSAND
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AND ONE NIGHTS Ȉȋʹ͹ͲȌ
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When you need a HANDSOME CAB
MATCHSTICK CLOCK ...... And much more!
reliable tradesman for FREE PLAN COUPON
Timbers include:
WORKING MATCHSTICK
work on your home… ROCKING HORSE
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…choose a member of The Guild of Master Craftsmen. Hobby’s (Dept WWC)
Knight’s Hill Square
For a tradesman you can trust – and a job done well.
London SE27 0HH Selling because I need to free-up space in the
020 8761 4244 workshop. Please feel free to contact me on
[email protected]
The only place to list members of The Guild of Master Craftsmen exclusively
www.hobby.uk.com 07542 066261 or [email protected]
Available from WH Smith & leading newsagents or direct
TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL RUSSELL: 01273 402841 Woodworking Crafts Issue 13 87
WWC_Classifieds.indd 87 3/22/16 3:19 PM

Community
ISSUE 14
ON SALE
Coming next month in 12 MAY
Louise Biggs
creates a
painted
dresser
■ Loveseat by Simon
Rodway
■ Walter Hall builds
a wall mounted
bench
■ Shaker hanging
cabinet by
Michael T Collins
■ Peter Sefton’s
students make
drawer handles
PLUS: Chris Grace looks at chopsaw technique • John Swinkels makes some carving knives
Editor Anthony Bailey Email: [email protected], Deputy Editor Briony Darnley, SUBSCRIPTION RATES (includes postage & packing)
Designer Jan Morgan, Head of Woodworking Design Oliver Prentice, Senior Editorial UK Europe Rest of World
Administrator Karen Scott, Illustrator Simon Rodway (www.linemine.com), Chief Photographer 12 issues: £51.00 £63.75 £71.40
Anthony Bailey, Group Editor, Woodworking Mark Baker, Production Manager Jim Bulley, 24 issues: £102.00 £127.50 £142.80
Production Controller Amanda Allsopp Email: [email protected], Publisher Jonathan
US customers should call the Subscription Department for subscription rates in USD ($).
Grogan, Advertising Sales Executive Russell Higgins Email: [email protected], Marketing
Anne Guillot, Subscriptions Helen Chrystie Tel: 01273 402 873 Fax: 01273 478 606 Email: Cheques made payable to: GMC Publications Ltd.
[email protected] Current subscribers will automatically receive a renewal notice (excludes direct debit
Printed in the Uk By Stephens and George Print Group, Distributed by Seymour Distribution Ltd subscribers). Post your order to: The Subscription Department, GMC Publications Ltd, 166
Tel: 020 7429 4000 WOODWORKING CRAFTS (ISSN 2057-3456) is published every four weeks High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XU, UK. Tel: +44 (0)1273 488 005 Fax: +44 (0) 1273
by GMC Publications Ltd, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XN 402866 Email: [email protected] Web: www.thegmcgroup.com
Woodworking is an inherently dangerous pursuit. Readers should not attempt the procedures described herein without seeking training and information on the safe use of tools and machines, and all readers should observe current safety legislation. Views
and comments expressed by individuals in the magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publishers and no legal responsibility can be accepted for the results of the use by readers of information or advice of whatever kind given in this publication,
either in editorial or advertisements. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd.
WWC_13_88_NEXT_ISSUE_bdABSD.indd 88 18/03/2016 15:24

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Issue 13 May 2016

HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING TURNING RESTORATION DIY

SHAKER STYLE TABLE BATHROOM CABINET FRETWORK PANEL

WOODWORKING CRAFTS 13 COVER 4.indd 1 12/04/2016 09:05

WWC_13_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER_bdABSD.indd 2 18/03/2016 14:45

H Woodworking Crafts. Still hoping for a decent

Woodworking Crafts issue 13 3

WWC_13_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER_bdABSD.indd 3 18/03/2016 14:45

MINIMUM LOW DOWNLOAD OUR FREE APP

0808 168 28 28 IronmongeryDirect.com FIND US ON

004_WWC_013.indd 4 3/21/16 4:17 PM

Below: A distressed old

A more tradi onal inspired

Woodworking Crafts issue 13 5

WWC_13_5_INSPIRATION_COFFEE_TABLES_bdABSD.indd 5 18/03/2016 14:47

Oak coffee table

1 H aving prepared the timber the

front legs and the front of the side rails.

WWC_13_6_10_OAK_COFFEE_TABLE_LB_bdABLBSD.indd 6 14/03/2016 09:36

What you will need

7 The end tail sockets were cut out

8 N ext, I chiselled out a small

9 Wor king from both sides and

Woodworking Crafts issue 13 7

WWC_13_6_10_OAK_COFFEE_TABLE_LB_bdABLBSD.indd 7 14/03/2016 09:36

FRONT ELEVATION SIDE SECTION

PLAN SECTION DETAIL

Drawer boxes with through

Vertical grain cover strip fitted to

WWC_13_6_10_OAK_COFFEE_TABLE_LB_bdABLBSD.indd 8 14/03/2016 09:37

Machine cut dovetails

12 Ha ving clamped the necessary

Woodworking Crafts issue 13 9

WWC_13_6_10_OAK_COFFEE_TABLE_LB_bdABLBSD.indd 9 14/03/2016 09:37

PROS AND CONS

Two drawer carcases, machine cut

20 21 Machine cut dovetails

18 The full extension metal runners

19 With the inner part of the

block, an allowance was made for a Conclusion

WWC_13_6_10_OAK_COFFEE_TABLE_LB_bdABLBSD.indd 10 14/03/2016 09:37

CAST IRON £524.17

t Powerful 1100 Watt induction motor Table size 530 x 400 mm

We have now Unit 1, Brookfoot Business Park www.nmatools.co.uk

011_WWC_013.indd 11 3/23/16 12:19 PM

PLASTICS FAST CUT DRILLS

012_WWC_013.indd 12 3/22/16 10:12 AM

M in the Furniture School

Woodworking Crafts issue 13 13

WWC_13_13_INSIGHT_PS_bdABPSSD.indd 13 18/03/2016 14:57

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF TRACY DORMAN

T exceptional opportunity to fit

fragile resource is truly precious.

Contact: The Woodland Trust

WWC_13_14_15_NEWS_&_EVENTS_bdAB.indd 14 14/03/2016 09:38

Weird and 2016 Devon County Show

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.DEVONCOUNTYSHOW.CO.UK

Reader email – Woodburners

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Woodworking Crafts issue 13 15