Trek

in

The Alps

1.Tour du Mont Blanc

James Baxter

September 2011
Tour du Mont Blanc

Alpenrose, Rhododendron The Chamois, Rupicapra rupicapra, is an iconic The Ox-eye daisy,
ferrugineum, grows above goat like antelope which is found throughout Leucanthemum vulgare,
the treeline across the the Alps. It is smaller than the Ibex and florishes in the Alps, even
Alps flowering all summer relatively common in some National parks into late summer

The Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the is the first half of September when the weather
classic treks of the Alps and it circumnavigates the is settled, but most of the alpine flowers will be
entire Massif Du Mont Blanc, from whose glaciers spent. Afternoon and evening thunderstorms are
and snowfields emerge some of Europe’s most possible and you should avoid the passes and the
famous and dramatic mountains. The route round ladders on Day 10 then. Otherwise all the sections
the massif has a few variants but by and large it can really be walked in wet misty weather but
takes 11 days at a liesurely pace and goes from the route finding might be difficult is snow starts to lie
decidious forests and villages of the valley floors on the paths.
at 1000m to rocky passes over 2500m and just
above the last grasses. Most of the geology of the Accommodation is very varied from hotels to
massif is granite or granitoid and it is this which hostels or gîtes d’etape in the towns or villages to
is shattered by the frost to create the distintive mountain refuges which only have dormitories or
spires of the region. dortoires, divided into sections, but may also have
smaller rooms. There are camp spots near most
If the path is hiked early, in mid June, then some of the mountain refuges and plenty of campsites in
of the passes will still be covered in snow. the forested valleys. Camping is not allowed in the
However, the passes are not steep and an ice axe various French National Parks or the Swiss valleys
is unnecessary except on the Fenetre d’Arpette passed by the route, but with discretion would be
variant. Late September can see the onset of overlooked.
winter. During the high summer months the trek
can be busy, especially in the last 2 weeks of July Food is available at all the towns and villages
and all of August. Perhaps the best time to walk either at the hotel or at a nearby resturant but
at the mountain refuges dinner and breakfast are trail is to take one of the numerous minibuses
provided by the establishment, usually around 0700 which shuttle between Geneva Airport and the
and 1900. If you do not pass a refuge for lunch Chamonix Valley. The start of the trail is at the
then most refuges can also make up pack lunches, charming village of Les Houches, which is the
or you can stop to eat a shop bought picnic. The first stop for these minibuses about an hour after
only problem with this comfortable and gourmet leaving Geneva Airport and just 10 minutes before
option is the expense which can be significant Chamonix itself.
in France and Italy, and absolutely eye-watering
in Switzerland - which offers very poor value While there is some traditional culture on
for money. From mid June to mid September the TMB, the alpine farmers who practiced
accomodation and food is widely availble in transhumance with their cattle have long realized
the villages and mountain refuges but after mid that it is now tourism which is the milk cow.
September many places close and the choice Indeed many of the mountains refuges started
becomes very limited off as shepards houses and cowsheds 100 years
ago, but now, after a few incarnations, are the
There is a small guidebook called “Tour of Mont large establishments of today catering for 100
Blanc” by Kev Reynolds which is very useful and trekkers a day. There are still herds of cows, and
informative. There is a 1;50,000 map published less commonly sheep, in the the mountains and
by the French ING called “Pays du Mont-Blanc” as you walk you will not be far from the sound
which covers the entire walk on one sheet and is of bells. The cows and sheep are milked at the
adequete because all of the routes and variants are alpine pastures and the milk is made into artisanal
so well marked. cheeses. The main highlight of the Tour du Mont
Blanc is not the remnants of this alpine culture but
Perhaps the easiest way to get to the start of the the outstanding mountain scenery.

Day11. The mountain scenery on the TMB is outstanding. Here is the view from near Lac Blanc looking
across the mist-filled Chamonix valley to the Grandes Jorasses on the left and the various Aiguilles above
Chamonix in the centre and right. Under the mist, between the two, is the huge Mer de Glace glacier.
 NORTH
Col de la Forclaz

Champex

Tre-le-Champ

Lac Blanc

nc
la
B
Aiguille Verte 4122m
t La Fouly

Mont Dolent 3823m

Les Houches
Aiguille du Midi 3842m

Grandes Jorasses 4208m

Bonatti
Mont Blanc 4810m
Contamines
f
si
as

Cormayeur
M

Elizabetta

Les Chapieux

Map of the anti-clockwise circular route from Les Hourches, in the Chamonix Valley in France, round to
Cormayeur in Italy and on to Champex in Switzerland, before returning to Les Houches in France again
to circumnavigate the Massif Du Mont Blanc on the classic 11 day trek.
Day 1. The TMB starts with a solid ascent of 650metres from Les Houches to Col de Voza. Much of the
ascent follows the ski piste used for the Kandahar Ski Race. About halfway up is the charming Chalet La
Tuile, which is sometimes a resturant

Day 1. From Col de Voza the better variant route goes up to Bellevue and then contours through the
forest towards the snout of the Bionnassay Glacier in the photo ahead. After crossing the torrent
emerging from the base of the glacier the path climbs up to the Col de Tricot, 2120m.
Day 1. From the grassy Col de Voza, 1653m, there Day 1. Crossing the suspension bridge over
is a great view back down the ski slope into the the glacial torrent which emerges from the
valley with the town of Chamonix spread out Bionnassay Glacier before the climb up to Col de
across the valley floor surrounded by mountains Tricot
and glaciers.

Day 1. The quaint and popular refuge at Truc lies Day 2. The church at Contamines is the centre
on a idyllic alpine plateau bordered by forrested piece of this traditional village and boasts a huge,
valleys on each side. The village of Contamines lies decorated eave which overhangs and protects the
in the valley to the west of this plateau facade

Day 2. The Rollaz Alp lies a couple of hours after Day 2. From Col du Bonhomme pictured above
Contamines and before the sustanied climb up to the path continues to climb to the higher Col de
Col du Bonhomme to the left of the photo. At the la Croix du Bonhomme where there is a delightful
far end of this alp is the Refuge Balme refuge and the start of the Col du Fours variant
Day 3. From the small hamlet at La Ville des Glaciers there is a great view past the small chapel into the
pastoral valley and the lofty Aiguille des Glacier, 3816m, beyond. The interesting variant route via Col des
Fours comes over the mountainside from Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme to here and misses
out the long descent to the utilitarian village of Chapieux

Day 3. The busy Elisabetta refuge lies in Italy beside the Glacier de la Lex Blanche and under the towering
Aiguille de Tre La Tete mountain, 3930m. From here it is a good days walk to Cormayeur with little other
accommodation so it is worth booking this refuge especially in the high summer.
Day 4. Below Elisabetta Refuge is a alluvial plain Day 4. Between Elisabetta Refuge and Cormayer
where the lateral moraine of the massive Miage the path climbs high above the Val Veny to avoid
Glacier has blocked the valley. This alluvial plain the Miage Glacier and its debris. It affords one
is fertile and grassy and affords good grazing for of the most spectacular views of the soaring and
cows who are brought up here for the summer jagged south side of the Massif du Mont Blanc

Day 4. The town of Cormayeur lies in the middle Day 5. Looking over the stone slab rooftops of
of the south side of the Massif du Mont Blanc Cormayeur to the south of the Massif du Mont
where the main valleys of Val Veny and Val Ferret Blanc. Cormayeur is connected to Chamonix by a
meet. It’s is a spectacular and convienient location tunnel in case one has to return or break the trek

Day 5. The TMB has been re-routed to contour Day 5. The path continues its delightful treeline
round the north face of Mont de la Saxe, rather contour to Bonatti Refuge above Val Ferret with
than go over it. This new treeline path is a delight stunning views across the traditional pastoral
to follow all the way to Bonatti Refuge valley to the south side of the Grandes Jorasses
Day 4. Kestrels, Falco Day 11. The Alpine Marmot, Marmota Day 11. The Alpine
tinnunculus, are common marmota, is the largest member of the Chough, Pyrrhocorax
on the south side of the squirrel family. It eats grasses and small graculus, often gathers
massif where there small insects to accrue fat deposits to see them where it is likely to get
prey and large insects. through 6-7 months of hibernation. food from humans.

Day 6. On the way up to Grand Col Ferret with the upper Val Ferret down to the left. In the far distance
on the left is the Col de la Seigne at the head of the Val Veny which is crossed a few days previously. The
shorter mountains on the right are the Petites Jorasses and the central higher ones the Grandes Jorasses
Day 6. Looking to Mont Dolent, 3823m, from the Day 7. One of the older timber log houses on
top of the Grand Col Ferret, 2537m, between the edge of La Fouly is typical. The walls are
Bonatti and La Fouly. The mountain is relatively made of interlocking logs and the roof is made
modest compared to most in the massif but is of massive timbers and then either covered with
where the French, Swiss and Italian borders meet. larch shingles or large stone slabs.

Day 7. The easy walk from La Fouly down the Val Day 8. After crossing the Fenetre d’Arpette the
Ferret to Issert is through a two hour delight of route descends down past the heavily crevassed
small fields and pastoral villages with many of the Glacier du Trient before it enters the forest and
old wooden houses a few centuries old follows the easy path to Col de la Forclaz

Day 9. Snow can fall on the high passes at Day 10. Climbing the main ladder section by the
anytime, especially in September. Here are colder Aiguillette d’Argentiere en route from Tre-le-
conditions at just 2200m by the Col de Balme Champ to Lac Blanc Refuge in the snow. The
Refuge which has just closed a few days previously ladders are easy but the rungs might be cold
Day 11. The walk from Lac Blanc refuge to Bel Lachat Refuge mostly goes down the east side of the
Massif des Aiguilles Rouges on a wide mountain shelf called Grand Balcon Sud from which there are
excellent views over the Chamonix Valley to the Massif du Mont Blanc on the other side.

Day 11. Mont Blanc looms in the distance across the Chamoix Valley from the easy path which contours
across the mountainside along the Grand Balcon Sud, here between the ski complexes of La Flegere and
Plenpraz 5 km further south.
Day 11. From Plenpraz the route crosses the Day 11. On the descent from Le Brevent to Bel
Massif des Aiguilles Rouges for a while to the Lachat the route goes along the crest on the
rocky west side and then climbs up Le Brevent, massif where there are more superb views to the
2525m. On the ascent up this mountain there is a Massif du Mont Blanc. From Bel Lachat there is a
short section with a ladder long descent into the valley to complete the TMB.

Day 11. Chamois are very agile and can jump Day 11. Marmots hibernate for up to 8 months
five metres across steep rocky ground with their and have to build up fat reserves in the summer.
elasticated hooves giving them excellant grip. They They live in underground colonies with a lookout
graze meadows never far from the safety of cliffs posted who chirps loudly if a threat is spotted

Day 11. From Bel Lachat refuge the path returns Day 11. The summit of Mont Blanc cannot be seen
to the east side of Massif des Aiguilles Rouges from the Chamonix Valley itself but the upper
and starts to descent steeply down conifer then slopes are visible and light up with an alpenglow in
decidious forest into the Chamonix Valley again. the evening sun
 The Alps: Tour du Mont Blanc
Day Start Finish Km Up Down Time General
Leave Les Houches and climb up the zig-zags between chalets and up the
Kandahar ski run for 3 hours to Col de Voza. Here in alpine pastures is
a hotel and mountain train stop. Head east up the ridge for a half hour
and then descend in forest to the swing bridge over the tumbling torrent
emerging from the Bionnassay glacier. After the bridge climb an hour
past rhododendron bushes to the Col de Tricot. In a day of great views
some of the best are here.Descend steeply for a good hour to the alp at
1 les Houches Contamines 18 1400 1220 9.5 Chalet Miage. Now climb steeply for a hour to the lovely Chalet de Truc
in its superb idyllic setting. From here it is a long descent for a good hour
through forest to the Alpine village of Contamines for hotels and food.

Head south up the quiet verdant valley for an hour to the Gorge Church.
Here start to climb up a wooded track for an hour to a Roman bridge
over a gorge and Refuge Nant Bourrant just beyond. From here there is
a short climb through forest to a delightful alp with the Refuge Balme at
the southern end and the imposing Pennaz Aiguilles rising beyond. From
Balme the route now climbs steeply for a hour to the chalets and alp at
Les Jovet and the after some respite for another hour to Col Bonhomme.
2 Contamines 18 1330 990 10 There is a further hours rising traverse to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme
Chapieux where there is a delightful refuge. If the forecast is good stay here for the
preferable variant over Col des Fours tomorrow. If not head down the
relentless grassy slopes to the utilitarian hamlet of Les Chapieux and the
welcoming Auberge de la Nova.

From Les Chapieux walk up the deep valley on the road to La Ville des
Glaciers where the valley opens opens out. It is here the Col des Fours
variant rejoins the main Tour Mont Blanc track. Continue up the alp for an
easy half hour to Refuge des Mottets at the foot of the long climb. Start
up the zig zags passing sheep grazing and marmot colonies until two hours
later you approach the Col de la Seigne. The impressive view of Aiguille
Les des Glacier is soon surpassed at the Col with a tremendous view of Mont
3 Elisabetta 15 1150 420 7 Blanc and its serated southern ridges. From the pass descend for a good
Chapieux hour into the gentle grassy valley now in Italy to reach the lovely Refugio
Elisabetta beside the glacier .

From Elisabetta walk down to the alluvial plain on the valley floor then
along the gravel road until the lateral moraine wall of Glacier du Miage
cuts acoss the valley. Here start to climb, sometimes steeply, up the stream
to Vielle Alp which is riddled with marmot. Now there follows a delightful
traverse NE across the meadows with absolutely stunning views across
the moraine filled Val Veny to the entire south east side of the Mont Blanc
massif. Enjoy this view for a good hour as you make the lofty traverse to
4 Elisabetta Cormayeur 14 530 1510 7.5 the lovely Col Checrouit and its refuge. Now start a knee jarring descent
down through steep forest for an hour and half to reach the valley. Pass
through the lovely old village of Dolonne cross the glacial torrent and
reach Cormayeur with its abundance of facilities.

Leave Cormayeur by the towns church and walk up the road through the
hamlet of Villiar in Val Sapin. Cross a bridge and the start a two hour climb
through the forest to the gastronomic Refugio Bentone at the treeline.
From here the route divides with a harder variant going up along the
crest of Mont de la Saxe. The main route traverses along the north flank
on Mont de la Saxe on a delightful path at the treeline. This three hour
traverse offers the best scenery of the trip so far with the south side of
5 Cormayeur Bonatti 14 1050 270 6 Mont Blanc and the Grand Jorasses soaring above the idyllic Val Ferret
below. The easy undulating forest walk passes a couple of cow alps before
reaching the superb Refugio Bonatti.

From Bonatti head east along the shelf for a pleasant hour through larch,
rhododendron and blueberry with stunning views to the Grand Jorasses
across Val Ferret. On reaching the Arnuva alp the path zig-zags down to
the valley then, climbs 300m up to the treeless and pastoral Refugio Elena.
From here there is a sustained further 500m climb up the grassy hillside
to Col Ferret where there is a great vista back down Val Ferret and Val
Veny to Elisabetta from three days ago and also west into the milder
6 Bonatti La Fouly 20 960 1360 9 Switzerland. Descend the Col on an easy track for a good hour to the best
avoided Refugio Peule. Here leave the main track for a preferable variant
traversing the steep hillside for a short hour to a small alp. Then descend
beautiful larch forests to the Refuge Lecherie on the valley floor. Just a half
hour further is the charming village of La Fouly with many facilities lying
under the soaring Mont Dolent.
 The Alps: Tour du Mont Blanc
Day Start Finish Km Up Down Time General
At the bottom of La Fouly opposite the Hotel Grand Ferret turn left off
the road and across the river. For the next two hours follow the tracks
and paths down the quiet forested west side of the glacial river. This easy
route ends in a descent down the lateral moraine of the long retreated
Saleina glacier and spills you out of the forest into the quaint fields around
Praz de Fort village. Enter this very authentic old village and descend its
old streets between sun blackened timber houses and colourful flowers.
Cross to the east side of the valley and descend for just half hour passing
7 La Fouly Champex 17 510 640 6 a rural mountain hamlet to the equally Swiss village of Issert crossing the
river again to the west. Here the route climbs over 400m up through easy,
seldom steep, spruce forest for two hours. Emerge from the spruce trees
into the large village of Champex idyllically sited beside a small lake. There
are all facilities here.

There are two routes to Col Forclaz either 6 hours via Alp Bovine or
8.5 hours via Fenetre Arpette. The latter being a more demanding, but
interesting, variant and described here. Leave Campex and walk to the top
of the village then leave the road and head up the hill beside an irrigation
channel and through forest to Refuge Relais D’Arpette after an hour. The
route now heads up larch filled valley before leaving the trees and climbing
more steeply for 3 hours across moraine and then into a rock bowl which
Col de la leads up to the steep high pass of Fenetre D’Arpette. There is a fantastic
8 Champex 14 1210 1110 8.5 view looking down to the Trient Glacier and the valley beyond. Start down
Forclaz the steep slopes slowly drawing level with the glaciers snout. Continue
down for 2 hours to reach the Chalet du Glacier and the forest again.
Here there is a bridge over the torrent and up to Refuge Col de Balme
3 hours away, but we continue for a further hour down a very easy path
beside an irrigation channel. It leads to the old large hotel at Col de la
Forclaz high above the upper Trient valley.

Leave the ageing Col De La Forclaz Hotel and return along the irrigation
channel for 10 min then take the turning down to Le Peuty 300m below.
Once in the valley head up through the village, across meadows and start
up the forested path to Col de Balme. It is a near 900 metre climb through
the spruce, then larch forest and finally open grass to reach the Col after
3 hours and cross into France again. In good weather the route now goes
down to the Col de Posettes and over the Aiguilles des Posettes with
Col de la Tre-Le- great views before descending to the charming Auberge at Tres Le Champ.
9 12 960 1100 5.5 In poor weather this route is best avoided by taking the path down the
Forclaz Champ pistes from Col de Balme to the villages of Le Tour and Montroc and then
skirting the hillside on a good forest path for 15 min to Auberge La Boerne
in Tre Le Champ.

Leave Tre Le Champ cross the main road and start up the track in the
spruce forest. After a good hour reach the Aiguillette d’Argentiere a well
known climbers pinnacle. From here at 1900 the first and main ladder
section starts with a series of linked ladders climbing 60m up a steep crag
with lofty views to the valley 800m below. Continue up across the hillside
with sensational views across the Chamonix valley to Mont Blanc massif.
Pass various junctions as you climb steadily west passing a few tarns.The
Tre-Le- Chalet du Lac Blanc is a short climb up again with a couple of easy ladder
10 Lac Blanc 5 1040 60 3.5 sections through ibex country to the lovely refuge.
Champ

From Lac Blanc head down past a few small tarns with fantastic views
across the valley up the Mer du Glace glacier slicing through the Mont
Blanc massif. After a half hour reach a track zig zagging down to the
concrete intrusion of the La Flegere ski complex. Now contour round the
hillside on a forest path passing across two steep valleys before reaching a
third and climbing to yet another ski complex, Plenpraz, on the far south
side. Here the path climbs steeply for 300m up to Col Brevent. The path
Les now undulates across bouldery ground for a good km before meeting a
11 Lac Blanc 23 900 2270 10.5 track and climbing a further 200m to Le Brevent mountain. After enjoying
Houches great views descend chamois and marmot terrain for a short hour to the
small Bel Lachat refuge. From here there is an unrelenting 1200m descent
across bushes then into larch, spruce and finally decidious forest into
the Chamonix Valley passing the huge Le Christ Roi statue towards the
bottom. Cross the main road to reach the east end of Les Houches and
walk west a km to reach Hotel Le Slalom at the bottom of the Bellevue
cable car to complete the TMB curcuit.

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