1.

DRAFTING AND STITCHING OFBIB , DIAPER AND

LAYETTE

Construction

1.0 Objectives
1.1 Introduction
1.2 Material
1.3 Selecting a suitable cloth
1.4 Drafting
1.4.1 Drafting of Bib
1.4.2 Drafting of Diaper
1.4.3 Drafting of Layette
1.5 Layout
1.5.1 Layout of bib
1.5.2 Layout of diaper
1.5.3 Layout of layette
1.6 Stitching
1.6.1 Stitching of bib
1.6.2 Stitching of diaper
1.6.3 Stitching of layette
1.7 What is Quilting?
1.8 Machine quilting
1.9 Precautions
1.10 Assignments
1.10.1 Class assignments
1 10.2 Home assignments
1.11 References and Suggested Further Reading
1.12 Glossary
 1. BIB, DIAPER AND LAYETTE DRAFTING
In the previous lesson, you have learnt about different stages of a child during
development and their measurements. In this lesson , you will learn the drafting of
necessary garments such as bib, diaper, and layette. In the next lesson, stitching
method of bib, diaper and layette are described.

1.0 Objectives

From this lesson you will learn

 Drafting of bib for infants

 Drafting of diaper for infants
 Drafting of layette
 Layout of drafts and cutting
 Stitching of the bib
 Stitching of diaper
 Quilting process
 Stitching of layette
 Precautions to be taken during stitching time.

1.1 Introduction
Bib is commonly used for infants. It can be used for one to two years babies also,
because it is very common for them, to spill milk while drinking which spoils their
clothes. Bib helps in keeping the garments clean. Saliva flows out from their mouth .and
bib in such cases absorbs it keeping the dress clean.
Diaper can be used till 6 months age. It is very common that children pass urine
frequently. So, the cloth diaper is more useful, because it dries out soon and can be
used repeatedly. The delicate organs of children will not get infected if sufficient air can
pass through the garments.
When we take children outside, they will be exposed to dust, cold, heat and
breeze etc. In order to prevent this kind of exposure, layette is used for carrying
children. It is made of a thick bed sheet like piece , resembling a bag. This helps
children to take them easily and the possibility for falling is less. The child will be carried
in a bag closed on all three sides . when a child is carried in a bed sheet wrapped
around , the child may slip out of it. An inexperienced person will be afraid about the
child slipping out of the sheet .
Layette can be used to cover the child. The child also feels comfortable and
sleeps well. It is easy to carry the child outside.
The next step after layout is stitching. Using sewing machine, stitching if the cut
garment can be done. Good quality threads should be used for stitching purpose. The
thread should match the color of the cloth and stitches should be proper . This prevents
stitches to give way. Start stitching only when all parts are cut and ready. Stitching
should be done stepwise to get a proper fitting and need not open the stitches often. In
this lesson, bib, diaper and layette stitching is taught.
1.2 Material
Brown paper, Inch tape, Pencil, Scale, Alpines, Scissors, Cloth, Thread, Milton
chalk, Carbon paper, Sewing machine, matching thread, scissors, thread cutter, foam,
zip.
1.3 Selection of appropriate cloth
Cloth should be fine and delicate for making garments for infants. Cotton is best
suited because, it absorbs moisture and also dries easily. It thus helps prevent
infections. Cambric is commonly used among cottons. Plain light colors, nursery prints
will be better. We can also use the left over fabric material in order to make these small
garments, like bib and diaper.
1.4 Drafting
1.4.1 Drafting of bib
Measurements
Round chest = 45 cm.
Length =17cm
Paper measurements for bib
 Width = 15 cm = (1/3 round chest ) (this can be more)
 Length = 17 cm (1/3 round chest +2 cm) or as desired.
Method
 Take a paper, which are 15 cm wide and 17 cm long.
 Fold the paper widthwise (15 cm). (Fig 1.1).
 A-C = 17 cm
 A-B = On fold = 7.5 cm
 A-E = 4cm(Neck width)
 A-F = 5.5 cm (Depth of neck)
 Join E to F round neck.
 In order to give bib a round shape, join circularly. You can make this in any
shape. Different bib shapes are shown in fig 1.2.
 Cut along F-E-C lines for drafting bib.
 Open the draft (fig 1.3). It looks as shown in figure.

Fig1.2. Draft of bib open

Fig 1. . Draft of bib
1
 Fig1.4 different shapes of bibs

1.4.2 Drafting of diaper

Diaper is of many shapes. In this lesson, you will learn stitching of two general shapes
of diapers.
Diaper design 1.
Measurements:
 Round hip = 45 cm.
Paper measurements are as follows:
 Length = 34 cm. (2/3 round chest +4 cm)= (30 + 4) =34 cm
 Width = (Round hip +5)/ 2 = 25 cm.
 A-B= 25 cm = Width of diaper
 The length of diaper is = 34 cm . From the mid point of A-B line, draw G-H line,
which is 34 cm long.
 From A and B , draw perpendicular lines ( Refer fig. 1.4)
 A to C = B-D =8 cm. and draw a line.
 C to E = D-F = 7 cm. and draw line at right angle.
 Distance between E to F is = 11 cm.
 Draw straight lines from E to G and F to H.
 The distance between E to F is 9 cm on E-G and F-H line. P and O points
downward from E and F.
 Join C to P curved line and from D to O also similar line has to be drawn.
 Cut along A-C-P-G-H-O-D-B-A for diaper .This is diaper 1.

Fig1.4 Draft of diaper1

Diaper 2
 Round chest = 45 cm
Paper measurements for drafting diaper 2 are as follows:
 Length = 20 cm
 Width = 35 cm (Chest line- 10 cm)
 A-B = 35 cm. Draw a straight line.
 C is center point of A-B line.
 Draw a line at right angle from C to D =20 cm.
 From A and B draw straight line to join D, with A-D and B-D
 Cut along A-C-B-D-A for diaper 2

Design 2
Fig 1.5 Draft of Diaper
1.4.3 Drafting of Layette
Measurement
 Length of child = 48 cm
Paper measurements for drafting diaper 2 are as follows:
 Length = 48cm
 Width = 120 cm (2 x length of child+24 cm)

Fig1.6 b ,c ,d draft of Layette

Fig3.6Draft of Layette

Method

 Take a paper measuring 45 cm length and 120 cm width . Mark ABCD at the
corners. . (fig 1.6 a)
 50 cm from C and D , mark G and H. (fig 1.6 a)
  Join g-h line and fold it along the line. (fig1.6 a)
 Then fold it widthwise
 When we fold like this, B overlaps A and D overlaps C, and G , H overlap.(fig 1.6
c)From AB , mark I on AG line at a distance of 8 cm. From AB again, mark J at a
distance of 10 cm in width.
 Join I and J with a curved line. The draft of Layette is ready. Cut along IJ only on
fold.
1.5 Layout
After completion of drafting, layout has to be done. Keep the draft on the cloth
properly and mark the lines. Then cut along the markings. Now we will discuss the
method of layout of bib, diaper and layette.
1.5.1 Layout of bib
 Open the draft of bib. This will be in the shape as shown in fig 1.3
 Cut bib on two layers and care should be taken such that it will not be thick
but is attractive at the same time. You can use the bib on both sides. You can
use two different clothes cut for two layers.
 Mark seam line along the draft.
 At the neck seam allowance is 0.5 cm and at all other places, 1 cm seam
allowances are given to mark cutting lines.(fig 1.6)
 On the outer line and on two fold cloth, bib will be cut.
 Foam can be used in between the two layers for which the same draft is used
to the foam. Use of foam in between layers is individual choice.

Fig 1.6 Layout of bib

1.5.2 Layout of diaper

 Place the cloth on crosswise center fold.
 Keep the upper portion of diaper on fold.
 Mark seam line on all three lines.
 Cutting line should be 1 cm. away from seam line.
 Cut the diaper on outer cutting line.
 Fold

selvedge

Fig1.9 Open draft of Layette

Fig 1.8 Layout of diaper

1.5.3 Layout of layette

 Open the draft of layette. It will look as shown in fig 1..9
 Quilting has to be done for making the first layer thick .So, it is necessary to
take 5 cm extra cloth than the draft in length and width of lining and main
cloth.
 Actually 50 cm wide and 125 cm long cloth will be cut.
 After quilting, cloth will be little reduced in dimension. . Hence, layout will be
carried out after quilting. We will learn about this in the next lesson.
Self Assessment Questions
1. How do you calculate the width of bib?
2. What is the length of triangular diaper ?
3. Till what age of children , bib can be used ?

1.6 Stitching

After cutting the bib, diaper, and layette, stitching has to be done. Stitching of the
three items is described below .
1.6.1Stitching
1.6.1 Stitching of bib
 Keep the two layers of a bib one over the other. Stitch the side seam around and
slashes should be given at a few places on the seam allowance. (Fig 1.10). This
enables us to reverse the layers of bib easily.
 Attach bias piece o the neck. For piping, a long piece is attached because a string has
to be made.
 This piece has to be cut on cross (bias), from the same cloth or a contrast cloth.
 Join the center portion of bib and neck and stitch piping. (Fig1.11).
  Fold the bias piece twice and stitch it from the center to the neck. Stitch on both sides in
the same way.
 The extra piece left over after stitching piping is made into a string by stitching leaving
one pressure foot.
 Using a hand needle, turn it on to the right inside. The strings are ready.
 Hem on the neck. (Fig 1.10).
 Now the bib is ready. (Fig. 1.11). Decorate it with embroidery.

fig 1.12 finished form of Bib

Fig 1.11 Piping
Fig 1.10 stitch around and around neck
give slashes

1.6.2 Stitching of diaper

 Leaving 1 cm at the upper part of the diaper, on A-B line, start stitching the sides.
(Fig1.13)
 On the other side of diaper also, leave 1 cm on G-H line and stitch. (Fig1.14)
 Reverse the cloth 1cm. from space left unstitched seam allowance and hem.
 Leave 1 cm. parallel to the upper line A-B and lower line G-H line .Stitch a
casing. ((Fig1.15).
 Insert strings on both top and lower portion.
 This string can be stitched either on bias or using straight pieces.
At the end, where strings have to be inserted, tack with hand or using
machine. (Fig 1.16)

1.14 Stitching of diaper Fig 1.15Upper and lower edge Fig 1.16 Stitched diaper
casing for tape
1.6.3 Stitching of layette
 Layette is made of three layers . one outer layer , inner lining, and foam is the
middle layer.
 First of all, spread 55 cm x 125 cm outer layer cloth.
 Cut the same size foam and keep it over this .
 Above this keep the lining layer.
 All three layers have to be tacked on four sides to keep them together.
 Now quilting should be carried out on these layers. In order to do this, one should
understand what is quilting
1.7What is quilting?
Quilting is a process in which three layers are made into a permanent layer. Not
only attractive pattern can be made with quilting technique, but it imparts thickness and
beauty also.
The three layers in quilting process are:
i) Outer layer: This is external layer visible and forms the garments.
ii) Batting : This is the piece which forms the middle layer and gives thickness.
iii)Lining : This layer is on the inner side of the cloth.
Quilting can be carried out both with hands and machine. It is important to know
the features of both the techniques. First, let us discuss about the batting.
Batting is a layer which is positioned in the between two layers of the cloth. Batting
can be made of the natural fibers or man made fibers. This is considered to be a
permanent layer. This is not strong so, on either side of it, cloth will be used to make it
strong and make a garment out of it.
Many types of batting can be used in quilting
 Cotton fibers
 Polyester fibers
 Blended fibers (cotton and Polyester mix)
 Wool batting
 Foam or sponge
First four are available in the form of fibers, but the last one is available in the
form of sheet. Quilting using mainly fibers and foam will be discussed now.
Quilting is used in making garments and house hold items. Some examples of these
are given below:
 Bibs for infants, layette, and bed sheet etc.
 Jacket
 Yoke in garments
 TV cover and other covering clothes
 Table mat
 Bag and kit for carrying items
 Cushion, bed sheets, pillows
This technique can be used for making many other items also. A detailed
account of quilting is given below.
 1.8 Machine quilting
When quilting is carried out using sewing machine it is called, machine quilting.
Very attractive models can be made using machine quilting. (Fig1.17)

Fig1.17Machine quilting
 The machine quilting is also similar to hand quilting.
 Make a pattern with circles or lines on a cloth which can be stitched using machine.
 Keep in mind that after quilting, the length and width of the cloth will reduce. Therefore,
batting and lining should always be larger than the main cloth.
 Pin the three layers or along the edges and join them together.
 Stitch on the pattern drawn. Any number of patterns can be made which can be either
made completely on the entire cloth (fig1.18) (fig 1.19) or can be made as border . Only
at fixed places on the cloth, patterns can be stitched. (Fig 1.20) (fig 1.21)or on entire
cloth

`Fig4.8 f ig 4. Border

``

fig 1.10 Patterns of machine Quilting

Patterns useful for quilting on entire cloth using machine quilting

Fig 1.12 Quilted cloth

After quilting your cloth will be very attractive
  After finishing quilting, layout layette on cloth .
 Leave one centimeter allowance while layout.
 Cut the layout.
 Mark at a distance of 50 cm from the edge lengthwise.
 A straight piece of 8 cm width should be cut . Fold it and stitch to make a long
belt.
 Make pleats or gathers on the belt.
 This piece is used as frill in layette.
 With top seam attach the frill to layette on three sides as shown in fig 4.6
 Cut a piece in bias and make piping on all sides of layette.
 The bag part should be folded at the mark which is at 50 cm distance , and
stitched on one side.
 Attach a long zip on the other inside of the bag. For this purpose, one part of zip
has to be attached from the lower part and other part of layette on the top part .
 Now the layette is ready. (fig 1.24)

1.9 Precautions to be taken while stitching

 All measurements should be taken using inch tape.
 Draw all straight lines using scale.
 Stitch all curves correctly.
 Use alpines to fix the draft on cloth
 Give proper seam allowances .
 Cut the cloth on cutting lines
 Give slash on the seam allowance after stitching the curves .
 Tack the dori in the center of diaper.
 Piping should be done neatly.
 Decide all lines for quilting before starting. Stitch the zip neatly.
 While stitching check whether all the stitches are uniform and at equal distance.

Fig 1.23 Attaching frill ig 1.24ReadyLayette

with top seam

1.10 Assignments
1.10.1 Assignments
i) Make a draft of bib and cut .
ii) Prepare a draft of diaper and cut it .
iii) Prepare draft of layette and cut it.
1.10.2 Home assignments
i) Prepare drafts of any five different shapes of bibs
1.11 Possible answers to self assessment questions
1. 1/3 round chest
2. 20 cm.
3. 2 years age.
4. 0.5 cm
5. String
1.12 References and Suggested Readings
1. Tamta, G.L., (2007) tailoring – cutting and fashion designing. Publishers –
Dhanpath Rai com.Pvt.Ltd. 1682, Nai sadak, Delhi 110006.

1.13 Glossary
1. Draft/ pattern The drawing made on a paper using inch tape,
scale, pencil according defined measurements is
called a draft. This is also called pattern.

2. . Layout The arrangement of pattern / draft in such a way that

wastage can be minimized .

3. Drafting The act of preparing a draft is called drafting. Many

a times, ready draft is also called drafting

4.Dress/clothing Material made of cloth which is ready to wear

is called dress.

5. Seam allowance The extra cloth in between cutting line and stitching
line is called seam allowance.

6. Cloth The woven material made of yarn is called cloth.

7.. Infection Disease caused by microbial organism.(for example

: bacterial/ Fungal/ virus).

8. Perpendicular In a triangle if one side is a part of 90 degrees angle, it is called

perpendicular

9. Bias When the cloth is kept cut an angle of 45 deg. (not

lengthwise or widthwise), crosswise, it is called
 Bias cloth will stretch.

10. Cutting line The lines drawn on fabric which include seam
allowance is called cutting line .

11. Seam line The lines drawn along pattern is called seam line,
along which the stitching is carried out.

12. Quilting Quilting is a process in which three layers of

material are used to make a fixed part .
13. Lining A cloth that is used inside while stitching garments

14.Foam Synthetic sheet .which has a property to get

compressed.

15 Pleat One type of fullness technique which is used to reduce

the extra cloth either by pressed or unpressed pleats.

16. Frill Gathers are made on cloth and used to attach on

cloth. These are made on machine and
attached.
2. DRAFTING AND STITCHING OF JHABLA

In the last unit , we have learnt drafting and stitching of petticoat. In this unit, first
lesson deals with dress Jhabla, for infants , its layout , cutting and stitching . In the next
lesson, the method of making garments more attractive by embroidery has been taught.

2.0 Objectives

After learning this lesson, we will learn the following

 Drafting of Jhabla
 Layout and cutting of Jhabla
 Stitching of cut Jhabla
 Embroidery

2.1 Introduction
Jhabla can be used for toddlers to 1-1.5 year’s child. This is very comfortable
garment which is loose and is used in summer. It is easy to wear a Jhabla and remove.
To make it more attractive, piping can be added .Another way is to make it showier is
embroidery

Many Varieties of jhablas can be made for infants. (fig2.1).drafting is made

according to jhabla design. Depending on designs, dori, pockets, frill etc. can be used
for decorative purpose. In this lesson, we will discuss the drafting, layout and cutting,
along with stitching of two different types of jhablas.

The first design is made of hand tacking . the second design is made using
machine. Depending on your taste and skill either one or two of these can be made.

2.2 Material
Brown paper, pencil, rubber, inch tape, scale, allpins, cloth, scissors, thread.,
needles, embroidery threads

2.3 Selection of Appropriate Material

After birth, child will be mostly lying down. So, it is necessary that their garments
should delicate and water absorbing type.
For jhabla, plain or printed cloth is used. Cambric, rubia, terevoil, etc. can be
used. Half meter cloth is enough to make a routine type Jhabla.half meter cloth is
necessary to learn the pattern of jhabla described here.
 fig 2.1 Different designs of Jhablas

2.4 Drafting of Jhabla of 1st type

Jhablas can be made in different ways. In this lesson, drafting of two methods of
stitching jhablas will be taught.
2.4.1 Drafting of Jhabla of design 1
This Jahbla is made in a simple way by hemming . we further learn the
details of drafting , layout and completing it by stitching .

Paper measurements
 Length =50 cm
 Width = 100 cm

Drafting method
 Ready length – 40 cm
 Take a paper measuring 50 cm length and 100 cm width .( 2.2). The seam
allowances are included in this.
 Fold the paper in such a way that the widthwise edges will overlap the other.
 Again fold widthwise.(fig 2.3)
 A rectangle is made ready , the corners of which are named ABCD .
 Double fold along AD line ( fig 9.3)
 From the top part fold 3 cm and mark EF line . AE= BF = 3 cm
 From hem line draw CD line 7 cm above. EG-= FH = 40 cm .
 Mark I on AD from E and J on BC line 9 cm below. IJ line is 9 cm below EF .
 On IJ line , on I side , mark L at 4 cm distance. Mark K point 4 cm below IJ line .
(fig 2.4 ). This is sleeve .
 Cut the draft along the round line LK , which is drawn on AC line . this has to be
cut on two layers then only two sleeves can be obtained. (fig2.4)
  Draft of jhabla is ready . (fig 2.4)

QksYM lkbM

Mcy QksYM lkbM

fp= 9-1 dkxt +dk uki fp= 9-2 QksYM dkxt+

Fig 2.2 Paper measurements fig 2.3Folded paper Fig2.4 draft of Jhabla

2.4.2 Layout and cutting of Jhabla

 Open the draft completely.(fig 2.4)

 Bc line should be along the selvedge . Remember that the other selvedge falls on
the other edge.
 Set the draft with allpins.
 Cut the Jhabla on the upper and lower line . Fold the cut jhabla in the center .
Again fold the two selvedges on folded portion .
 Cut along the sleeves of jhabla

Fig 2.5 Opened draft of Jhabla

2.4.3 Stitching of Jhabla

This type of Jhabla has to be completed with hand stitch – hemming. The
following steps have to be carried out :
 Fold 3 cm at the top. Fold it inside for nefa or casing and make 2cm nefa by
hemming. ( fig 2.5)
 Fold at the hem line by 7 cm. and for hem , fold 2 cm inside . the bottom part of 5
cm is made ready. Hem the upper and lower round of sleeves have to be
hemmed folding very less cloth. ( fig2.6)
 On the edges stitch with buttonhole stitch and make it firm.
  Similarly complete both the sleeves.
 A ribbon or tape has to be has to be inserted in the casing.
 The jhabla is ready (fig 2.7).

-5

Fig 2.6 Ready Jhabla after hemming fig 2.7 Ready Jhabla
Activity

1. Prepare a Jhabla draft on the cloth an stitch.

2.4.4 Embroidery on jhabla

 Embroidery can be carried out to make it more attractive after completion .

Any design according to individual taste , which is suitable for children ‘s
garments can be used.
 Remember that the design should be stitched on the front part . the back part is
open.
 After tracing the design, select proper colors and stitches to carry out the
embroidery. Embroidery work makes it more attractive.
2.5 Jhabla of 2 nd Design
This Jhabla has an attractive style. This can be made using a sewing machine .
In this lesson, drafting, layout , cutting and stitching are discussed. Some
measurements are required for stitching this jhabla, which are given below
The measurements to be taken for stitching jhabla are :
 Measurement cm
 Round chest 45
 Length of jhabla 30
Paper measurements
 Length of paper 30 cm
 Width of paper 2/3 Round chest +8 cm=38 cm
Method of draft preparation
 30 cm length and 38 width paper is required.
 Fold the paper widthwise.
 A-C = 30 cm. (length of paper )
 A-B =19 cm (1/2 Paper width) (fig 2.8).
 A-E = 1/2 shoulder width +5 cm =15 cm
 E-F = 11.5 cm. Draw straight lines from E to f and G to H.
 On B-D line, mark appoint N from F.
 A-J =3.5 cm. = Width of the neck.
 A-L = 4.5 = Depth of neck.
 J TO K = A L J to K and K TO L should be joined with straight lines. For neck
shape, J to L should be joined with a curve.(Fig 2.8)
 E-M = 1.75 cm.
 Join J to M with straight lines.
 Join M and H with a curved line for arm hole.
 Above the point D 1.75 cm is I .join H and I with straight lines.
 Join I on line D-C with curve.
 Cut along the line C-I-H-M-J-L-C .

Fig 2.8 Draft of jhabla

 Open the draft along L-C line.
 Use this to make the back part of Jhabla. The shape of the draft A-H-G-F-E-D-C-
B-A will be seen as in fig 2.3
 Join point A with F-G with a curve. (fig 2.9 )
 Join B to E with a curve.( Fig 2.9)
 From A to F and E to B, trace the curved lines using a carbon paper and cut. (fig
9.8)
 Join the side seam of the front part H –I line (fig 2.9) with the side seam of back
part.
 Jhabla draft is ready.
 Fold along L-C line. Mark a parallel grain line on the draft.
 Finally, cut along A-B-H-M-J-L-C-I-A as shown clearly in fig 2.9

fig 2.9 Draft of back portion of Jhabla Fig 2.10 Complete draft of Jahbla
2.5.3 Layout and cutting of Jhabla
Seam allowances necessary for layout of jhabla are as follows.

Part of Jhabla Seam allowances in cm

 Neck 0.5
 Shoulder 1.5
 Arm hole 0.5
 Bottom width 0.5

 Fold the cloth lengthwise. Fix the draft of jhabla on the cloth using allpins so that
the draft will not fly out .fold should be along L-C line.
 Along the margin of the draft, seam line has to be marked. While marking seam
line, carbon has to be placed below to get the markings on the other side.
 Leaving a seam allowance on the neck 0.5 cm. mark cutting line.
 On shoulder, leave seam allowance 1.5 cm before marking cutting line.
 0.5 cm on arm hole and at hem line to mark cutting lines.(fig. 9.10 )
 Cut the jhabla along the cutting line.
 On all sides of jhabla piping should be done . For this, 2.5 cm wide and 2 meters
long bias piece has to be cut. This piece can be taken from the same cloth or
front another cloth.

Fig 2.11 Layout of jhabla

2.6 Stitching of Jhabla

 Join the back and front shoulder parts along the seam line. Similarly, join the
other shoulder. (Fig 2.11).
 Attach piping pieces and make along single piece. (Around 1 metre).
  Attach the piping piece from one side of Jhabla. Loosen and attach. Flat the
seams at shoulder. You will observe that the piping after completely attaching to
jhabla will be back at its origin.
 If piping is not done, fold inside the hem line and hem it. (Fig2.12).

fig 2.11 Joining the shoulders together fig 2.12 Jhabla with pipin

Self Assessment Questions

1. Up to what age of kids Jhabla can be used?
2. Which type of cloth suits for stitching jhabla?
3. What are the paper measurements to make a draft of jahbla?
4. What is the name of the line that is marked along the margin of draft after layout?

2.6 Precautions

 Take proper paper measurements for drafting jhabla.

 Use always a delicate fabric for Jhabla.
 Give proper seam allowance.
 Use always a sharp scissors to cut the jhabla
 The curves at the back have to be correctly marked.
 The sleeves should be cut properly in Jhabla and stitch them using buttonhole
stitch to avoid tearing of cloth.
 Do not use a long ribbon in order to avoid pulling of ribbon onto the face
 Use fast color threads .
 Don’t pull the piping while attaching it.

2.7 Assignments

2.7.1 Class assignments

i) Make a draft of jhabla

ii) Layout the draft of jhabla and cut it.
 2.7.2 Home assignments
i) Stitch the cut jhabla pieces together and complete it.

2.8 Possible Answers to Self Assessment Questions

1. From infants to 1.5 years age children

2. Cotton, cambric, voile.
3. 30 cm long and 19 cm wide.
4. Seam line.
2.9 References and Suggested Further Reading

1. Tamta G.L., Tailoring –cutting and fashion designing. Publishers –Dhanpath Rai
Com. Pvt. Ltd. 1682, Delhi 110006.

2. K.R, Zarapkar A, System of Cutting; Pub by Navneet Publications (Indian), Dantali,

Ltd. Gujarat.

3. Anchor Needle & Thread, Vol III, Issue 1, and April –June 1998 Special Issue
Celebrating 50 years of India’s Independence. Pub by Shakuntala Jagdish for Coats
Viyella India Ltd. # 21/10A, Craig Park Layout, P.B.NO. 5444, Bangalore – 560 001.

2.10 Glossary
1. Draft/ pattern The drawing made on a paper using inch tape,
scale, pencil according defined measurements is
called a draft. This is also called pattern.

2. Layout The arrangement of pattern / draft in such a way

that wastage can be minimized

3. Seam allowance Cloth between seam line and cutting line is called
seam allowance.

4. Cutting line The lines drawn on fabric which include seam

allowance is called cutting line .

5. Grain line : The direction of weave of yarn in the fabric is called

grain line. Lengthwise grain is called Tana and
widthwise grain is called Bana
6. Seam line The lines drawn along pattern is called seam line

7. Bias When the cloth is kept cut an angle of 45 deg. (not

lengthwise or widthwise), crosswise, it is called
bias. Bias cloth will stretch
 3. DRAFTING , CUTTING AND STITCHING OF
BLOOMER
Construction

3.0 Introduction
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Material
3.3 Drafting of Bloomer
3.4 Layout of Bloomer
3.5 Stitching of Bloomer
3.6 Precautions
3.7 Assignments
3.7.1 Class Assignments
3.7.2 Home Assignments
3.8 Refernces and
3.9 Glossary
 3. DRAFTING , CUTTING AND STITCHING OF
BLOOMER

In the previous lesson , stitching of jhabla for infants was taught. In this lesson,
drafting of bloomer, layout and cutting will be taught along with the method of stitching
bloomer .

3.0 Objectives

After studying this lesson, you will learn the following

 Drafting of the bloomer

 Cutting of bloomer
 Stitching of bloomer
 To make bloomer attractive

3.1 Introduction

Bloomer is almost similar to a knicker . this will be used along with jhabla
or frock. The length of bloomer is optional. Elastic is used at the waist and at the feet to
fit it properly . Sometimes the elastic can be applied if bloomer is till knees. The bloomer
can be stitched plain or decorative. (fig 3.1) . In case of children above infancy , it can
be used along with frock , top etc. In this lessons details of drafting , cutting and
stitching of bloomer are given.

3.2 Material

Brown paper, pencil, rubber, Inch tape, Scale, Alpin, Cloth, Scissors, Cut parts
of bloomer , machine thread reel, Han needle, Sewing Machine, Thread cutter.

3.3 Drafting of Bloomer

Bloomer is a type of knicker, the length of which can be altered according to

need. Here we are demonstrating drafting of a small size bloomer. The following are
essential measurements to make a bloomer.

Measurements ;

 Round Hip = 45 cm
 Length of bloomer = 24 cm
Paper measurements for drafting :

Length of paper = 24 +2 =26 cm

Width of paper = (1/4 Round hip +Extra for gathers ) x 2
= (11+17 )x2 =28x2 =56 cm

3.3.1 Method of drafting of Bloomer

 First of all take a paper which is 56 cm wide and 26 cm long . Mark ABCD (fig
3.2). the width of Bloomer can be twice that of 2/3 hip + gathers x2 or it is twice
the hip.
 Fold the paper widthwise such that AB line falls on CD.(fig 3.3)
 Fold on EF line as shown in fig 3.2
 Either EF of AB line should be divided into 4 equal parts , G 1 , G2 ,G3 .
 The line AB where it is not folded , mark center point on G 1 B.
 Join I with H3 which is located on AB line. .(fig 3.3)
 Similarly join J with G1 A (fig 3.3).
 Join J with H3 giving curve. (fig 3.3).
 Join J with H3 with slightly curved line. This is back seat , the depth of which is
1/3 hip -3 cm approximately.
 Mark K , in the center of EH1 line.
 As shown in fig 3.3 , join J with K.
 Where G1 cuts H1 line , from that point mark L at the center of G1
 Join L with H3 giving slight curve. This is front seat , which is 1/3 hip – 3 cm.
 Join L and K similarly.
 M will be 1cm above F.
 Join M and I
 Drafting of bloomer is complete.
 Cut along M-I - H2- J-K keeping EF on fold.
 The portion K-J- H3 is back part of bloomer.
 Open KM line and cut on K-L- H3 . This is the front part of bloomer.
 Mark grain line . mark front and back .
 When you open the bloomer, it is seen as in fig 3.3

Fig 3.2 Paper taken according Fig 3.3 Draft of Bloomer

 to measurements

3.4 Layout of Bloomer

The front and back parts of bloomer are different. The layout of this open and on
double layer. Open the draft and keep on appropriate grain line. Seam allowances
should be given as mentioned below :
Measurements cm
For casing at the top 4 .0
Sides 1.5
Seat 1.5
Round ankle 4.0 (to give effect of frill )
 Giving proper seam allowances , layout bloomer (fig 3.4) as shown.
 Mark seam lines on both sides of cloth.
 Give seam allowances and mark cutting line.
 Cut along cutting line .
.

Fig 3.4 Layout of Bloomer

Activity
1. Draft and cut the bloomer according to required measurements
3.5 Stitching of Bloomer

 First step is stitch the front and back seat parts. (fig 3.5)
 Fold a little at the bottom , stitch lace or piping ( fig 3.6). It has to be stitched on
both sides.
 Measure elastic (20 cm approximately) according to round thigh , stretch and
stitch elastic .
 Stitching inside seam is the next step. While stitching this round , join front and
back seats and flat the seam.
 Fold the casing at the top . bow, lace etc. can be stitched on the bloomer as a
part of making bloomer attractive.(Fig 3.7)
 You can also make use of other accessories to decorate the bloomer. The length
of bloomer can be kept as desired.(fig 3.8).

 Fig3.6 Join the seats of bloomer Fig 3.8Stitch inside seam and casing

Fig 3.6 Making casing at the round bottom

Fig 3.8Ready Bloomer

Fig 3.8 Other models of Bloomer

3.8 Precautions

 Take proper paper measurements

 Cloth used for bloomer should be delicate.
 Give proper seam allowances
 Cut with a sharp scissors.
 Notice the difference between the front and back parts.
 Do not stretch piping while stitching.
 Stitch on seam line only.
 It is essential to join front and back seat parts while stitching inside leg.
 Use matching threads.
 Check the tension of machine threads , while stitching.
 Take elastic according to waist and round thigh .
3.7 Assignments
3.7.1 Class Assignments
i) Take measurements of 5-6 years child , draft bloomer.
ii) Stitch the bloomer which you have stitched.

3.7.2 Home Assignments

i) Draft bloomer and A- line frock for a 4-5 year child.
ii) Stitch ay pattern of Jhabla or frock and stitch a long bloomer along with it.

3.8 References and suggested further reading

1. Tamta G.L. (2007) Tailoring and Fashion designing. Publishers – Dhanpathi Rai
Company Pvt. Ltd
2. Zarapkar K.R (1999), System of Cutting; Pub by Navneet Publications (India)
Ltd.,Dantali, Gujarat.
3. Anchor Needle & Thread, Vol III, Issue 1, and April –June 1998 Special Issue
Celebrating 50 years of India’s Independence. Pub by Shakuntala Jagdish for
Coats Viyella India Ltd. # 21/10A, Craig Park Layout, P.B.NO. 5444, Bangalore
– 560 001.

2.10 Glossary

1. Panel This is piece of cloth in between two side panels.

2 .Grain Line The direction of yarn in the cloth.

3. Piping: This will be attached at the neck or arm hole . The piece of cloth
to be attached should be cut on bias. Attach this piece and fold
it inside in such a way that only a portion of it is seen outside.
This is called piping. This is used for decoration purpose and
make the garment attractive.
4. Top seam stitch that is carried out on the top side.

5. Placket The opening in the garments on which buttons, zip,

or other fasteners are attached.
6.Slash The cuts given on the seam allowance is called slash. This is
especially necessary wherever there are curves, and corners to
get proper shape