ID: 181-014-041 Section: A Course Title: Fabric Manufacturing Technology-2 (Lab) Course Code: TXE-304

Name: Mahmudul Hasan
ID : 181-014-041
Section: A
Course Title: Fabric Manufacturing Technology-2(Lab)
Course Code: TXE-304
Study on Weft Knitting Machines
Weft Knitting:
There are two types of knitting, weft knitting and warp knitting. In the more
common weft knitting, the wales are perpendicular to the course of the yarn. In
weft knitting, yarn is knitted horizontally and in a circular form. Most of the
knitted fabric is produced by weft knitting. Various types of machine used for
production of weft knitted fabric. In this article, all types of weft knitting machine
are described with feature.
Weft knitting machine (Circular)
Types of weft knitting machine:
 Fabric machines
 Garment length machines
Fabric Machine:
Large diameter, circular, latch needle machines, knit fabric, at high speed, that is
manually cut away from the m/c after a conventional length has been knitted.
Most fabric is knitted on circular machines either single cylinder or cylinder and
dial.
Features of fabric machines:
 Large diameter, circular, latch needle machines (also known as yarn goods
or piece goods) knit fabric, at high speed.
 The fabric is manually cut away from the machine usually in roll form after
a convenient length has been knitted.
 Most fabric is knitted on circular machines either single-cylinder (single
jersey) or cylinder and dial (double jersey) of the revolving needle cylinder
type, because of their high speed and productive efficiency
 Sinker wheel and loop wheel frames could knit high quality specialty fabrics
with bearded needles although circular machines employing bearded
needles are now absolute, the production rates of these machines were
uncompetitive
 Unless used in tubular body-width, the fabric tube requires splitting into
open-width
 The fabric is finished on continuous finishing equipment and is cut-and-
sewn into garments or it is used for household and technical fabrics
 The productivity and patterning facilities of fabric machines vary
considerably.
 Generally cam settings and needle set-outs are not altered during the
knitting of the fabric.
Garment Length Machine:

Flat and circular machines, knitting garment length sequences which have a
timing or counting device to initiate an additional garment length programming
(machine control) mechanism. This coordinates the knitting action to produce
garment structural repeat sequence in a wale wise direction. The garment width
may or may not vary within the garment length.
According to their frame design and needle bed arrangement, the weft knitting
machine may be broadly classified as either:
 Straight bar frame machines

 Flat knitting machines
 Circular knitting machines
Straight Bar Frame Machine:
Special type of machines having a vertical bar of bearded needles whose

movement is controlled by circular engineering cams attached to a revolving cam-
shaft in the base of the machine. the length of the machine is divided into a
number of knitting heads.
Flat Knitting Machine:
The typical flat machine has two stationary beds arranged in an inverted V
formation. The machines range from hand-propelled and manipulated models to
automated, electrically-controlled, power-driven machines.
Feature of Flat knitting machine:
 2 stationary needle bed in flat knitting machine arranged in an inverted V

formation
 Latch needle is used
 Angular cam of a bi-directional cam system used
 There is a separate cam system for each needle bed
 The two cam systems linked together by a bridge, which passes across from
one needle bed to the other
 Carriage with determined yarn carrier issued
 Cam system is attached to bottom side of carriage
 The flat machine is the most versatile of the weft knitting machine
 Fabric produce with finer to coarser yarn
 The operation and supervision of the machine is simple
 The stitch length range is wide and possibly of changing the machine gauge
 Trimmings, edging, collars, to shaped panels and integrally knitted complex
garments and other articles.
Circular Knitting Machine:
Circular knitting machines always produce a tube-shaped fabric. They exist in

different sizes or diameters, depending on the field of application. The needles
and sinkers in these machines are arranged in a circle. The machines can be
divided into two different types, depending on the number of sets of needles:
 single set: plain;

 two sets: rib, interlock, spacer fabric.
Both single set und double set machines also exist as Jacquard machines, which
are needed for special designs. In these machines, the movement of each needle
can be controlled from each cam. Common products that are produced with
circular knitted fabric are T-shirts. For production, nearly every material can be
used. The form varies from filament to staple fibre yarn. For special purposes, also
monofilaments and wires are used. Machines that possess just one set of needles
are only able to produce plain- knitted structures. In these structures, one side of
the fabric shows right loops and the other side rib loops.
The following picture shows the loop structure of a plain knitted fabric-
The interlock structure was derived from the rib structure (Fig. 01). For the
production of this kind of fabric, two needle sets are necessary and the needles
need to be arranged in a different way. The loops are formed in two different
directions (Fig.02). The result is a fabric with smooth surfaces on both sides. This
is due to the right loop structure on each side. The rib structure shows rib loops
on both sides of the fabric. These fabrics can be produced using loop- or needle
transfer.
Figure-01
Figure-02
Classification of Circular knitting machine:
There are many types of circular knitting machine that produce long lengths of
tubular fabric manufactured for specific end uses. Single jersey machines are
equipped with a single ‘cylinder’ of needles that produces plain fabrics, about 30
inches in diameter. Wool production on single jersey machines tends to be limited
to 20 gauge or coarser, as these gauges can use two-fold wool yarns. The cylinder
system of single jersey machines is demonstrated in Fig.1. Another inherent
feature of woollen single jersey fabrics is that the fabric edges tend to curl
inwards. This is not a problem whilst the fabric is in tubular form but once cut
open can create difficulties if the fabric is not finished correctly. Terry loop
machines are the basis for fleece fabrics that are produced by knitting two yarns
into the same stitch, one ground yarn and one loop yarn. These protruding loops
are then brushed or raised during finishing, creating a fleece fabric. Sliver knitting
machines are single jersey machines that have been adapted to trap a sliver of
staple fibre into the knit structure.
Figure-1(Single Jersey Machine)
Double jersey machines (Fig.2) are single jersey machines with a ‘dial’ that houses
an extra set of needles positioned horizontally adjacent to the vertical cylinder
needles. This extra set of needles allows the production of fabrics that are twice
as thick as single jersey fabrics. Typical examples include interlock-based
structures for underwear/base layer garments and 1 × 1 rib fabrics for leggings
and outerwear products. Much finer yarns can be used, as single yarns do not
present a problem for double jersey knitted fabrics.
Figure-2(Double Jersey Machine)

ID: 181-014-041 Section: A Course Title: Fabric Manufacturing Technology-2 (Lab) Course Code: TXE-304

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ID: 181-014-041 Section: A Course Title: Fabric Manufacturing Technology-2 (Lab) Course Code: TXE-304

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Name: Mahmudul Hasan

Types of weft knitting machine:

Garment Length Machine:

 Straight bar frame machines

Straight Bar Frame Machine:

Special type of machines having a vertical bar of bearded needles whose

Feature of Flat knitting machine:

 2 stationary needle bed in flat knitting machine arranged in an inverted V

Circular Knitting Machine:

Circular knitting machines always produce a tube-shaped fabric. They exist in

 single set: plain;

Classification of Circular knitting machine:

Figure-2(Double Jersey Machine)

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