© Lonely Planet Publications

88 lonelyplanet.com DELHI •• History 89

Delhi
DELHI

DELHI
THE EIGHT INCARNATIONS OF DELHI
Remains of many of Delhi’s eight cities are still visible today; here’s a quick list of what was
where, and when.

Qutb Minar area:

First City (1060) Lal Kot was founded by the Tomar Rajput clan, as the first ‘official’ Delhi incarnation.
Second City (1303) Siri, a citadel located near modern Hauz Khas village, was built by Central Asian king
Delhi, India’s fascinating and frenzied capital, rewards those who refuse to allow its less-lovable Ala-ud-din.
elements to overshadow their stay. With patience, perseverance and a sense of humour, the Third City (1321) Tughlaqabad (p126), a fortified city, was built by Ala-ud-din’s successor; though short-lived,
creaky old city becomes increasingly more loveable the more time you spend here. its ruins remain.
Fourth City (1326) Jahanpanah, a second Tughlaq creation, was proclaimed.
Some Delhi attributes work surprisingly well: the plentiful ATM machines, the train ticket
booking system, the luxurious top-end hotels and the impressive metro system, whilst others – New Delhi Area:
Fifth City (1354) Firozabad (p99), a fortified palace, was founded by Firoz Shah Kotla.
the greedy rickshaw drivers and crooked con-artists – stubbornly refuse to toe the line.
Sixth City (1533) Purana Qila (p104), was founded by Afghan king Sher Shah Suri, located near the present
Broadly speaking, Delhi comprises two distinct halves. Spacious and planned, southern New day India Gate.
Delhi was built in the early 20th century as the British imperial capital, with Lutyens’ neoclassical Old Delhi Area:
architecture, wide boulevards and open spaces. This area remains a political and business hub, its Seventh City (1638) Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi) was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.
southern and western suburbs home to semipermanent foreigners – many embassy workers.
New Delhi Area:
Meanwhile, to the north, Old Delhi was once the capital of Islamic India, built by the Mughals Eighth City (1931) New Delhi was inaugurated by the British, as the jewel in their colonial crown.
in the 17th century. Today it’s an eclectic blend of ancient history and modern chaos, housing
many of Delhi’s greatest sites, including Jama Masjid and the sprawling Red Fort.
HISTORY member of the Central Asian Turk clan, the
Delhi’s history is as colourful and tumultu- Khiljis, who took Delhi in 1290. His lieuten-
As one of India’s busiest international gateways, Delhi is a natural starting and ending point ant, Ghiyus-ud-din Tughlaq, followed in Ala-
ous as it is ancient. Many have desired and
for travel into Rajasthan. With just a day or two to spare, you can easily dip beneath Delhi’s invaded the city, but the old saying that ‘who- ud-din’s footsteps, inaugurating Delhi’s third
surface, soaking up the medieval bazaars of Old Delhi, visiting top-notch museums, reviving ever establishes a new city at Delhi will doubt- incarnation, Tughlaqabad, in 1321, whose
over a frothy cappuccino, then taking your dining pick from anything from a local street-food less lose it’ has so far always come true – it evocative ruins still stand (p126). The fourth
remains to be seen whether its modern-day Delhi, Jahanpanah, dates from 1326, a Tughlaq
extravaganza to a perfect wood-fired pizza.
takeover by the moneyed middle classes will creation of Ghiyus-ud-din’s successor.
suffer the same fate. The fifth Delhi, Firozabad (p99), consist-
HIGHLIGHTS Officially, Delhi has comprised eight dis- ing largely of a big fortified palace, was built
tinct cities (only the last one of which was ac- in 1354 by next-in-line Sultan Firoz Shah
„ Wander the Red Fort (p96), an evocative Kotla in present-day New Delhi. Then, in
tually named Delhi), though in practice, there
testament to the Mughal emperors 1398, Delhi fell prey to the whims of Central
Red Fort
have been many periods between the foun-
„ Stroll through Lutyens’ New Delhi (p101), Old Delhi Street Food dation of each separate ‘city’ during which Asian warlord Tamerlane, and was completely
experiencing Victorian imperial designs Jama Masjid control over Delhi changed hands multiple sacked. Following a period of wrangling for
on a grand scale Connaught times. For a brief run-down of its various power by the remaining locals, the area was
„ Gape at the Jama Masjid (p98), India’s
Place Bars
major incarnations, see the box above. re-established by the Punjabi Lodi sultans,
largest mosque, built by Shah Jahan The first four cities of Delhi were all to whose mark can still be seen today in the
New Delhi
the south, around the area where the Qutb tombs at the Lodi Gardens (p107).
„ Head out to the soaring Qutb Minar The sixth city of Delhi, however, was not
Minar still stands. The far older settlement
(p126) tower, built to proclaim the arrival to appear until 1533, when the Afghan king
of Indraprastha, though, which featured in
of Islam Sher Shah Suri, also known as Emperor
the epic Mahabharata over 3000 years ago,
„ Sip a mojito in a slick Connaught Place is the earliest known incarnation of Delhi Sher Shah, took the city and built a citadel
bar (p117), then chow down on Old (not officially counted as one of its eight incar- at Purana Qila (p104), near the spot where
Delhi street food (p113) near Chandni nations) and was centred just east of India the ancient Indraprastha is thought to have
Chowk for a tenth of the price Gate in New Delhi. stood. Emperor Shah Jahan, grandson of the
In 1060, a Rajput clan named the Tomars famous Akbar who moved his court to the
Qutb Minar
founded Lal Kot, the first ‘official’ Delhi. This doomed Fatehpur Sikri (p142), constructed
was followed by Siri (p107), a citadel built Shahjahanabad, Old Delhi, in 1638, thus shift-
„ AREA: 1483 SQ KM „ POPULATION: 12.8 MILLION „ TELEPHONE CODE: 011 in 1303 by the unpopular king Ala-ud-din, ing the Mughal capital back from Agra.
 90 DELHI •• Orientation lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DELHI •• Information 91

Finally, the eighth Delhi, New Delhi, was Maps India Habitat Centre (Map pp102-3; %43662026; East West Medical Centre (Map pp92-3;
DELHI

DELHI
built almost 300 years later by the British, fol- The free AA City Maps Delhi Map, which can Lodi Rd) %24623738; www.eastwestrescue.com; B-28 Greater
lowing the eventual fall of the Mughal empire be picked up in cafés and tourist spots, is a Italian Embassy Institute of Culture (Map pp102-3; Kailash Part 1) A private clinic housed in an unassuming
and the rise of the British Raj. The moving good basic map, with information on Delhi %26871901; 50E Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri) white building opposite N-Block Market.
of the capital of British India from Kolkata monuments, embassy phone numbers, train Max Mueller Bhavan (Map pp102-3; %23329506;
(Calcutta) to Delhi was announced in 1911 times and even a diagram of the airport. For 3 Kasturba Gandhi Marg) Money
but construction was not finished, and the city exceedingly more detail, Eicher produces the Tibet House Library (Map pp102-3; %24611515; ATMS
officially inaugurated, until 1931. In 1947 it 245-page Eicher City Map (Rs 290) and Delhi 1 Institutional Area, Lodi Rd) ATMs (24 hours) linked to international net-
became the capital of modern India. Road Map (Rs 75), available at most book- works are plentiful throughout Delhi. Most
shops and newsstands. Internet Access accept Visa, MasterCard, Cirrus, Maestro and
ORIENTATION There aren’t too many internet cafés around American Express.
Although Delhi sprawls for miles (its official INFORMATION Connaught Place, but Paharganj makes up Bank of Punjab (Map p110; Hotel Ajanta, 36 Arakashan
city limits encompass 1483 sq km), it’s rela- Bookshops for this with a whole slew of places to check Rd, Paharganj)
tively easy to navigate. Probably the best way Delhi has dozens of wonderful book- your email. Most charge from Rs 5 to print a Citibank Basant Lok (Map pp92-3; Vasant Vihar); cnr
to get oriented is to begin by taking a stroll shops, many conveniently located around black-and-white A4 page and Rs 30 to scan C-Block & K-Block (Map p100; Connaught Pl); Jeevan Bharati
around central Connaught Place, upon which Connaught Place. Other good areas to or write a CD. Bldg (Map p100; 3rd fl, Connaught Pl)
the characters of southern New Delhi and browse for books are the Khan Market (p120) Cyber Graphics (Map pp102-3; Khan Market; per 30min HDFC (Map p110; Main Bazaar, Paharganj)
northern Old Delhi seem to converge. and the Daryaganj Sunday Book Market Rs 50; h10.30am-7pm) ICICI Connaught Pl (Map p100; 9A Phelps Bldg); Paharganj
Just north of Connaught Place, you’ll (p119). For cut-price titles, you’ll find plenty Cyber Station (Map p110; Main Bazaar, Paharganj; per (Map p110; Rajguru Rd).
find New Delhi railway station, the starting of roadside book stalls to peruse; beware 30min Rs 10; h7.30am-10pm) UTI (Map p110; Rajguru Rd, Paharganj)
point for most journeys to Rajasthan and that pages might be badly set, eclectically DSIDC Cyber Café (Map p100; N-Block, Connaught Pl;
beyond. On the opposite side of the chaotic ordered, or missing that crucial last page per hr Rs 50; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) FOREIGN CURRENCY & TRAVELLERS
Chelmsford Rd is Paharganj, a labyrinthine telling you whodunnit. CHEQUES
conglomeration of bargain-basement ho- Laundry The following change major currencies and
tels, souvenir shops and ‘tourist restaurants’, CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA Most budget and midrange hotels offer a laun- travellers cheques.
which services the needs of most of Delhi’s Bookworm (Map p100; %23322260; 29 B-Block; dry service for a decent rate (top-end places American Express (Map p100; %23719506; A-Block,
budget travellers. h10.15am-7.30pm) may charge an arm and a leg for a shirt and Connaught Pl; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2.30pm
Further north, you’ll reach Old Delhi, home English Book Store (Map p100; %23415031; trousers). If you’re feeling earth-conscious, Sat) Also has an Amex-only ATM.
to the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, and Chandni 17 L-Block; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) lug your laundry to the ‘eco friendly garment Central Bank of India (Map pp102-3; %26110101,
Chowk, Old Delhi’s congested principal New Book Depot (Map p100; %23320020; 18 B-Block; care’ Guardini Drycleaners (Map pp102-3; Khan Market; ext 3584; Ashok Hotel, Chanakyapuri; h24hr)
thoroughfare. In Old Delhi, you’ll also find h11am-8pm Mon-Sat) %24622000; dry cleaning coat/suit/skirt Rs 185/280/175; Chequepoint Foreign Exchange (Baluja Forex; Map
the main Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT). h11am-7.30pm Mon-Sun). p110; %51541523; 4596 Main Bazaar, Paharganj;
Further north again, you’ll find Majnu-ka KHAN MARKET h9am-8.30pm) Cash advances on MasterCard and Visa.
Tilla, also known as the Tibetan Colony, a Bahri & Sons (Map pp102-3; %24694610; h11am- Media Thomas Cook (Map p100; %23416585; C-33, Con-
peaceful budget accommodation alternative 7.30pm Mon-Sat) The charmingly old-fashioned, but very ac- naught Pl; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat) Ex-
to Paharganj. Full Circle Bookstore (Map pp102-3; %24655641; curate, Delhi City Guide (Rs 20) and Delhi changes travellers cheques, foreign currency, and provides
Directly south from Connaught Place h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Diary (Rs 10) both include a Delhi map, as cash advances on credit cards. Also arranges international
is India Gate and the impressive buildings does Explore Delhi (Rs 20). First City (Rs 30) is money transfers. There’s another branch at the Imperial
of Lutyens’ New Delhi. Broad, command- SOUTH EXTENSION a slick monthly magazine with comprehensive Hotel (p113).
ing Rajpath runs from India Gate to the Timeless (Map pp92-3; %24693257; 46 Housing Soci- listings/reviews, while the fortnightly Time
Presidential Palace. Beyond this, to the south ety, South Extension Part 1; h10am-7pm) Tucked away Out Delhi magazine (Rs 30) makes a great, INTERNATIONAL MONEY TRANSFERS
and west are affluent South Delhi suburbs in a back lane, Timeless specialises in quality coffee-table hip introduction to the city. All are available Thomas Cook (see above) arranges money transfers from
and numerous pleasant shopping areas. books and offers complimentary tea. at most newsstands and bookshops. its Connaught Place branch.
Many top-end hotels are here, in the ‘dip- Western Union (Map p100; %23311133; Sita World
lomatic enclave’ of Chanakyapuri, tucked Cultural Centres & Libraries Medical Services Travels, F-Block, Connaught Pl; h9.30am-9pm Mon-
between central Delhi and the airport to the Many of Delhi’s libraries and cultural centres There are plenty of pharmacies around Sat, to 6pm Sun) There are numerous citywide branches,
south-west. host exhibitions and seminars, dance, music Connaught Place, and in all Delhi’s markets. including a counter at the Connaught Place post office
Further south still, you’ll find the Qutb and theatrical performances. Check listings All India Institute of Medical Sciences (AIIMS; Map branch (see Post & Telephone).
Minar (p126), and the crumbling ruins of (opposite) for details. pp92-3;%26588500, ambulance 1099; Ansari Nagar) Has
Tughlaqabad (p126). Alliance Française (Map pp102-3; %43500200; a 24-hour ambulance emergency service. Opticians
To get around, either take an auto-rickshaw 72 Lodi Estate) Apollo Hospital (Off Map pp92-3; %26925858; www Delhi is a good place to pick up new frames,
or taxi trip, for an ‘on the ground’ orientation, British Council (Map p100; %23710111; 17 Kasturba .apollohospdelhi.com; Mathura Rd, Sarita Vihar) glasses or contact lenses. A good, swift cen-
or the spanking new metro system (p125) which Gandhi Marg) Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital (Map pp102-3; tral choice is listed here.
will whisk you – in underground serenity – Delhi Public Library (Map p97; %23979297; %23365525; Baba Kharak Singh Marg) Another hospital Optical Corner of India (Map p100; D-block, Connaught
to your chosen destination. SP Mukherjee Marg) with 24-hour emergency facilities. Pl; h10am-1.30pm, 2.30-7pm daily) Prescription and
 DELHI
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93

DELHI
 94 DELHI •• Dangers & Annoyances lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DELHI •• Dangers & Annoyances 95

you’ll generally find scammers fairly innocu- will then drop you at the hotel of his choice,
INFORMATION Mutiny Memorial..................... 22 D3 DRINKING
DELHI

DELHI
All India Institute of Medical Rail Transport Delhi's Devils...........................(see 51) ous if you simply ignore them or call their where he gets a plump commission and you
Sciences................................. 1 D6 Museum.................................23 C6 Lizard Lounge...........................40 E6 bluff. Failing that, there’s a special ‘tourist get a high room rate.
Bangladeshi Shankar’s International Dolls Oxygen.................................... 41 C7 police’ squad, in clearly marked jeeps (each
Embassy.................................2 C5 Museum...............................24 E4
Citibank ATM............................. 3 C7 Tughlaqabad.............................25 F8 ENTERTAINMENT
with English-speaking police, usually includ- TOURS & TOURIST INFORMATION SCAMS
Concern India PVR Anupam 4......................... 42 D8 ing one woman) stationed at tourist centres, No matter what the touts might tell you, there
Foundation.............................4 E6 SLEEPING PVR Priya Cinema..................... 43 C7 including the international airport, New Delhi are only a couple of official, government-run
East West Medical Home Away From Home.......... 26 D7 Satyam Cineplex....................... 44 C3 train station and Janpath. Female travellers tourist offices in the city. The others are pri-
Centre...................................5 E7 IDA House..............................(see 32)
Foreigners' Regional Registration Lhasa House...........................(see 32) SHOPPING should also take a look at p372. vately owned, often offering inflated prices.
Office..................................... 6 D6 Master Guest House................. 27 C4 Dilli Haat ...............................(see 34) For tourist information, only go to the tourist
Nirmal Hriday (Missionaries of Peace House...........................(see 32) Fab India.................................(see 46) Scams offices listed on opposite.
Charity)...................................7 E1 Radisson Hotel..........................28 B7 Greater M-Block Market...........45 E7
Shishu Bhavan (Missionaries of Shanti Palace............................29 B7 Greater N-Block Market............46 E7
There are a number of scams operating in You should be even more careful when
Charity)...................................8 E3 The Manor................................30 F6 Hauz Khas Village...................(see 18) Delhi – be extra cautious around tourist hubs. booking multiday tours out of Delhi. Lonely
Timeless......................................9 E6 Uppal's Orchid......................... 31 A8 Karol Bagh Market.................... 47 D3 See Dodging Delhi’s Dodgy Dealers (below) Planet receives frequent reports from trav-
White House..........................(see 32) Lajpat Nagar Central Market.....48 E6 for a summary of practical tips. ellers who booked and paid upfront, only
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Wongdhen House.....................32 E2 Planet M.................................(see 51)
Akshardam Temple...................10 F5 Yatri House.............................. 33 D4 Roopak's.................................(see 47) to find that their ‘all inclusive tour’ failed
Ashoka Pillar............................. 11 D3 Sarojini Nagar Market.............. 49 D6 HOTEL TOUTS to include entrance fees to major sites, pro-
Ashtaang.................................. 12 C6 EATING South Extension Market Touts often materialise in the form of taxi- vided terrible accommodation, or simply
Bahai Temple............................13 F7 Dilli Haat.................................. 34 D6 (Part I)....................................50 E6
Beyond Looks........................... 14 C7 Flavours....................................35 E6 South Extension Market
wallahs, most frequently at the international didn’t travel to the places they were prom-
Coronation Park........................15 D1 Govinda's..................................36 F7 (Part II)..................................51 E6 airport. These sneaky drivers will try to per- ised. Several travellers, too, have been sold
Firoz Shah Kotla........................16 E4 Govinda's Sweets...................(see 36) suade you that your hotel is full, poor value, ‘lake’ or ‘river cruises’, only to be ferried up
Firoz Shah's Tomb.................... 17 D7 La Piazza.................................. 37 D6 TRANSPORT or is no longer there at all, and will try to take to Kashmir, where violence and instability
Hauz Khas Village ................... 18 D7 NYC........................................(see 28) Air Canada................................52 E4
Jahanpanah.............................. 19 D7 Naivedyam.............................(see 46) Inder Motors...........................(see 47) you elsewhere. Some will go one step further, remain a security worry.
Lakshmi Narayan Park Baluchi............................(see 46) Inter State Bus Terminal.............53 E3 ‘kindly’ taking you to a ‘tourist office’ where
Temple................................20 D4 Shalom......................................38 E7 Lalli Motorbike Exports...........(see 47) a colleague in cahoots will phone your hotel TRAIN TICKET SCAMS
Moth-ki Masjid.........................21 E7 Swagath....................................39 E6 Thai Airways International.........54 E7
on your behalf, and corroborate the driver’s At the New Delhi train station, touts may
story. In reality, of course, he’s talking to try to stop you from booking tickets at the
nonprescription glasses available with a one-day service. has a poste-restante facility; ensure mail is addressed to someone in the next room. The taxi-wallah upstairs (1st-floor) International Tourist
Also check out the lenses which ‘allow more room for the GPO, New Delhi, 110001. The Connaught Pl branch is most
eyelashes’. conveniently located but has no poste restante.
DODGING DELHI’S DODGY DEALERS
Photography Tourist Information
Among the usual photographic services (in- Beware of the many profit-driven, overpriced „ Ignore taxi touts who tell you that your hotel is closed/full/burning down and try to take you
cluding digital needs), the following both and substandard travel agencies and others to their ‘booking office’. Tell persistent taxi drivers that you’ve paid for your hotel in advance,
snap passport photos (four/10 for Rs 70/120), posing as ‘tourist information centres’ all over so there’s no point taking you elsewhere and, if they continue, ask that they stop the car
which take 10 minutes. Delhi. Do not be fooled – head straight to the so that you can write down the registration plate number. Just to be sure, call or email to
Delhi Photo Company (Map p100; %23320577; 78 government tourist office listed below. confirm your hotel booking, if possible, 24 hours before check-in.
Janpath, Connaught Pl; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) For contact details of Indian regional tourist „ Walk on by the touts who congregate at the New Delhi Railway Station, and who’ll do their
Kinsey Bros (Map p100; %23324446; 2 A-Block, offices ask at the Government of India Tourist best to convince you that the International Tourist Bureau is closed/being renovated/just
Connaught Pl; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Downloading from Office, check state government tourist office across the road. They’re lying, to which warning signs all over the station attest.
memory card to CD costs Rs 170 for an unlimited amount listings in the back of First City (see Media, „ Ignore touts who surreptitiously dirty one of your shoes or offer you a free, trial ear-cleaning
of photos. p91) or dial the operator on %197. in one ear.
Government of India Tourist Office (Map p100;
Post & Telephone „ Agree in advance a fee for any journey by taxi or rickshaw, or insist the meter is put on
%23320005/8; www.incredibleindia.org; 88 Janpath;
(checking that it’s been reset since the last passenger). If you run into any problems, threaten
Delhi has scores of telephone kiosks, where h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat); international airport
you can make calls for cheaper than from (%25691171; h24hr) Dispenses advice, maps and to telephone the tourist or transport police or, if you’re near a prepaid booth, suggest you
your hotel. brochures, and can arrange guided tours of Delhi and accompany the driver there to sort out the dispute.
DHL (Map p100; %23737587; Vandana Bldg, 11 Tolstoy beyond. The Janpath branch also investigates tourism- „ Beware of unscrupulous travel agents who’ll try to sell you expensive, low standard tours,
Marg; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat) A reliable related complaints. or trips to trouble spots (including Srinagar). If you’re planning on booking a tour, only use
courier option. agents accredited with organisations such as the Travel Agents Association of India, the
Post offices Connaught Pl (Map p100; 6 A-Block; 10am- DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Indian Association of Tour Operators and the Adventure Tour Operators Association of India –
7.30pm Mon-Sat); New Delhi main post office (GPO; Map If you’re a first-time visitor to the city, it’s ask to see their accreditation.
pp102-3; %23364111; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; important to remember Delhi’s reputation „ Never accompany any friendly individual who stops to offer help or directions, then suggests
h10am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) The as India’s centre for con artists and touts. you should go to visit their shop: it’ll likely be hard-sell all the way.
main post office is 500m southwest of Connaught Pl, and Forewarned, however, is forearmed, and
 96 DELHI •• Sights lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DELHI •• Sights 97

Bureau and attempt to divert you to one of known as the Chatta Chowk (Covered Bazaar; 0 800 m
OLD DELHI
DELHI

DELHI
0 0.5 miles
the (overpriced and often unreliable) travel Map p97). The shops in the arcade here once
agencies over the road. Other tricksters may sold items that the royal household might have
insist your ticket needs to be stamped (for a fancied – silks, jewellery and gold – though they INFORMATION Lahore dGate........................... 11 C3 SLEEPING
d R

b Rd
hefty fee payable to them) before it’s valid – var Masjid........................... 12 C3
now hawk tourist wares. Delhi Public Library.................. 1 B2 uleMoti
Bo Mumtaz Mahal...................... 13 C3
Hotel Bombay Orient............. 23 B4

Cl u
Hotel Broadway..................... 24 C5
another scam. Still more may try to convince The arcade leads to Naubat Khana (Drum SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Inter
Museum of Archaeology......(see 13) Hotel New City Palace............ 25 B4
wait-listed passengers that there’s a charge to House; Map p97), where musicians used to Chatta Chowk.........................
Digambara
State Bus
Terminal
Jain Temple............
2 C3
3 B3
Naubat Khana.........................(see 8)
Raj Ghat................................ 14 D5 EATING
Kashmiri
check their reservation status – don’t fall for play for the emperor. There’s an Indian War Gate
Diwan-i-Am............................. 4 C3 Rang Mahal........................... 15 C3 Chor Bizarre.........................(see 24)

Ya
it, no matter how hard the patter. Memorial Museum (Map p97; admission Rs 2; h10am- Diwan-i-Khas........................... 5 C3
Kashmiri Red Fort (Lal Qila)................. 16 C3 Ghantewala............................ 26 B3

mu
rg
i Ma Gate
Fatehpuri Masjid...................... 6 A3 Royal Baths............................ 17 C3 Haldiram's.............................. 27 B3
Saha

na
5pm Tue-Sun) upstairs. The open courtyard be- ardev Gandhi Memorial Museum...... 7 D5 Shahi Burj.............................. 18 C3 Jalebiwala.............................. 28 B3

Ri
H
Lala
SIGHTS

ve
Indian War Memorial Museum.. 8 C3 Shanti Vana........................... 19 D4 Karim's................................... 29 B4
yond the Naubat Khana once had galleries

r
Marg
Gokhale Jain Mandir Hospital for Birds...(see 3) Sisganj Gurdwara................... 20 B3 Moti Mahal........................... 30 C4
Old Delhi & Around along either side, but these were removed by Jama Masjid..............................9 B4 Sunehri Masjid....................... 21 C4 Paratha Wali Gali................... 31 B3
Khas Mahal............................ 10 C3 Ticket Kiosk........................... 22 C3
The atmospheric, unruly remains of the 17th- the British army when the fort was used as its l s on R d
Nicho SHOPPING
Tilak G
century walled city of Shahjahanabad (Old headquarters. Other reminders of the British a li Chowri Bazaar........................ 32 B4
Cloth Market......................... 33 A3
Delhi) sprawl west from the Red Fort, though presence are the three-storey barrack blocks NH1 Zorawar Singh Marg Rin Dariba Kalan.......................... 34 B3
gR
they were at one time surrounded by a sturdy situated to the courtyard’s north. Lothian
d(
MG
Kinari Bazaar.......................... 35 B3
Cemetery Rd Lajpat Rai Market................... 36 B3
defensive wall, only fragments of which now Delhi Train
Station
) Salimgarh Nai Sarak................................ 37 B4
Fort
exist. The Kashmiri Gate, at the northern end Diwan-i-Am Shyama P
ra
(Old Delhi)
sa d (S P
) Mukherjee Marg
Spice Market.......................... 38 A3
Mor
of the walled city, was the scene of desperate This elegant chamber (Hall of Public Mahatma 1 Library e Sara
Delhi Public
i
Gandhi Rd
fighting when the British retook Delhi during Audience; Map p97) was where the emperor

H C Se n
33 Park 18
the 1857 Indian Uprising. West of here is the would sit to hear complaints or disputes from Chandni
Chowk
36 Red
Fort
17

British-erected Mutiny Memorial (Map pp92–3),

Rd
his subjects, and was once set with precious 38 Town Hall 22
16 12 5
27
dedicated to soldiers who died during the stones, many of which were looted following 6 Chandni Chowk 20
11 10
26 28 8 4
Uprising. Near the monument is an Ashoka Pillar the 1857 Uprising; it was restored following a t ra n
Ka riya
31 Kotwali
Ki 34
3 Lahore
Gate
15

(Map pp92–3); like the one in Firoz Shah Kotla Ba Baznari

directive from Lord Curzon, viceroy of India, a ar 2 13
(p99), brought here by Firoz Shah. between 1898 and 1905. 35 Delhi

Esplanade Rd
B
Gate toon r
Po n

Ne
Chel Puri

taj
RED FORT (LAL QILA) Diwan-i-Khas

iS
u bh
The sandstone Red Fort (Map p97; Indian/foreigner Rs Constructed of white marble, this room (Hall

as
Lambi
Netaji

Gali
21

h
11/100, children under 15 free, video Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset of Private Audience; Map p97) was the em- 37 9 Urdu Subhash

M
ar Shanti Vana Rd

arg
25 Park Park
Chowri aza

See Paharganj Map (p110)

Tue-Sun) once represented everything glorious peror’s luxurious private meeting chamber. In ri B

Matya Ma r
Bazaar o w 19
Ch 32 23 29 Parda
Kuc
about the peak of the Mughal empire; today, 1760 the Marathas removed its silver ceiling, h a Bagh
Chitli Kasturba
it seems a rather forlorn shadow of its former and today it’s a shadow of its former glory.

Prem Narain
Qa Ho

hal Rd
ba
grand self.

spita
Dakhni Rai St

l M
Shah Jahan began construction of the fort Royal Baths

j Rd
rg

a
Old
in 1638 and it was completed a decade later. Next to the Diwan-i-Khas are the hammams Ajmeri

Sama
30 Walls of
Gate

S it a r
Shahjahanabad
It was actually Shah Jahn’s son, sly and con- (baths; Map p97), three large rooms sur- Daya Nand Rd

Arya

am
Daryaganj
niving Aurangzeb, who moved his capital here mounted by domes, with a fountain in the

Baz
New Gal i S
fru Hindi

Ring Rd (MG Rd)

from Agra, after deposing and imprisoning centre (one was set up as a sauna). The floors

a ar
Bhavbuti Rd
Delhi Train
Station Asa Park
f Al Turkman
his father in Agra Fort. Aurangzeb himself be- once had pietra dura (marble inlay), and the Ramlila
i Rd
Gate Bharat Ram Rd

5
came the first and last great Mughal emperor rooms were illuminated through panels of Grounds

Rd
d
Ansari

lR
New 24
Delhi
to rule from here. coloured glass in the roof. 14

dia
Delhi Gate
Jawaharlal Nehru Marg

Ra
Gandhi
Tickets to the fort are available from the See Connaught Darshan
Dr Ambedkar 7
dedicated tourist counter at the kiosk (Map Shahi Burj Place Map (p100) Bus Station Gandhi

Rd
Memorial
p97) on the plaza to the left of the main This modest, three-storey, octagonal tower
Rd da

an
n

To India Gate

rkm
eka

Lahore Gate. (Map p97) at the north-eastern edge of the (3km)

Viv

Tu
fort was once Shah Jahan’s private working
Lahore Gate area. From here, water used to flow south outer walls are oriented exactly in symmetry ace, divided into rooms for worship, sleeping
The fort’s main gate (Map p97), named for the through the Royal Baths, the Diwan-i-Khas, with the rest of the fort, while the inner walls and living.
fact that it faces toward Lahore, now in Pakistan, the Khas Mahal and the Rang Mahal. are slightly askew, so that it has the correct The Rang Mahal (Palace of Colour; Map
became a symbol for the nationalist movement’s orientation toward Mecca. p97), which is located further south again,
fight against the British. The nationalists wished Moti Masjid took its name from its painted interior,
to see India’s flag flown atop it; this was finally Built in 1659 by Aurangzeb for his own per- Other Features which is now gone. This was once the resi-
achieved in 1947. Entering the fort here, you sonal use, this small marble mosque (Pearl The Khas Mahal (Map p97), south of the dence of the emperor’s chief wife, and is
immediately find yourself in the vaulted arcade Mosque; Map p97) is next to the baths. Its Diwan-i-Khas, was the emperor’s private pal- where the emperor ate. On the floor in the
 98 DELHI •• Sights lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DELHI •• Sights 99

centre there’s an exquisitely carved marble JAMA MASJID

DELHI

DELHI
lotus; water channelled from the Shahi Burj This striking mosque (Map p97; camera/video each FESTIVALS IN DELHI
used to flow to here. Rs 150; hnon-Muslims 8.30am-12.30pm & 1.45pm-30min Some of Delhi’s festival dates and venues are variable – for this year’s details and tickets to
Relics from the Mughal era are displayed before sunset, closed noon-2pm Fri) is the largest in events listed below, contact the Government of India Tourist Office (p94). Delhi celebrates Diwali
at the Museum of Archaeology (Map p97; admission Rs India and the final architectural extravagance (p360) and Dussehra (p359) with particular verve. During Dussehra, theatrical renditions of the
2) in the Mumtaz Mahal, still further south of Shah Jahan, begun in 1644 and not com- Ramayana are held.
along the eastern wall. pleted until 1658. The mosque has three gate- Republic Day (26 Jan) At Rajpath, incorporating an impressive military parade, complete with floats, elephants
ways, four towers and two minarets standing and fly-past. Tickets for ‘grandstand’ viewing positions can be had for Rs 150 to Rs 300 and standing-room for Rs 20
Sound-&-Light Show 40m high, and is constructed of alternating to Rs 50.
Each evening a one-hour sound-and-light show vertical strips of red sandstone and white Beating of the Retreat (29 Jan) The closing of the Republic Day celebrations is marked by the Beating of the
(adults/children Rs 50/20, children under 3 free; h in marble. The main entry point is gate No Retreat outside the presidential palace, also entailing military pageantry. Tickets (from Rs 20 to Rs 50) are available
English 8.30pm Feb-Apr, 9pm May-Aug, 8.30pm Sep-Oct, 3, the courtyard inside big enough to hold for the dress rehearsal the day before, and, more scarcely, for the event itself (from Rs 100).
7.30pm Nov-Jan, no show on Mondays) re-creates his- 25,000 people. Delhi Flower Show (Jan/Feb) This event spans three to four days.
torical events associated with the Red Fort. For Rs 20 it’s possible to climb the southern Mango Festival (Jun) Running for several days at the Talkatora Gardens, this festival includes awesome mango
Tickets are available from the ticket kiosk minaret (women must be accompanied by a exhibitions and mango-eating competitions.
at the fort. male), where the views from the top, especially Independence Day (15 Aug) India celebrates Independence from Britain in 1947 and the prime minister
of New Delhi, are superb. addresses the nation from the Red Fort ramparts.
CHANDNI CHOWK Visitors should dress respectfully and Qutb Festival (Oct/Nov) This festival runs for about a week at Qutb Minar, and features classical Indian music and
Old Delhi’s chronically congested main remove their shoes at the top of the stairs dance performances.
thoroughfare, Chandni Chowk, has it all: noise, (pay the shoe-minder Rs 5 upon collection).
traffic, hassle, and produce ranging from fear- There are guides (per person Rs 50) for hire inside;
some bras to fake beards. There are plenty of request accredited identification as travellers Connaught Place & Around is a road teeming with breakneck traffic, and
tempting street treats at little, unnamed stalls, have reported fake (expensive) guides who CONNAUGHT PLACE (CP) plenty of cafés, bars and hotel accommoda-
and even a McDonalds, should the particular try to fool visitors into paying an entry fee The geographical heart of New Delhi is tion. Like the inner circle, it’s divided into
urge strike. But it was not always so. Once the (mosque admission is free). Connaught Place, designed by Robert Tor blocks: this time, lettered from G through
pinnacle of Mughal Delhi sophistication, this Russel in 1932 in architectural imitation of to N.
was a serene street of merchants and expen- RAJ GHAT the famous Royal Crescent in Bath, England. To keep things simple, we’ve used only
sive homes, with a tree-lined canal flowing South of the Red Fort, on the banks of the Because of its composition – three concen- ‘Connaught Pl’ in addresses throughout this
down the centre. You’ll still be able to spot Yamuna, a simple black-marble platform (Map tric, colonnaded circles with seven radial chapter. Connaught Place addresses have a
evidence of its former glory in some crum- p97) marks the spot where Mahatma Gandhi roads running out from them (for some rea- block letter and a number, but these are not
bling, intricately carved haveli (traditional was cremated following his assassination son known as Radial Rd 2 to 8, rather than always presented in a uniform way: some es-
residence) frontages. in 1948. 1 to 7) – it can be a bit confusing at first to tablishments use ‘50N Block’, while others
At the eastern (Red Fort) end, there’s the Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Indian prime navigate, though there is some method to adopt ‘N-50’ or other variations. For shopping
16th-century Digambara Jain Temple (Map p97) minister, was cremated just to the north, the madness. on and around Connaught Place, see p119.
You need to remove your shoes and all leather at Shanti Vana (Forest of Peace; Map p97) in 1964. The inner circle (officially known as Rajiv
before entering this temple. The Jain Mandir Nehru’s daughter, Indira Gandhi, who was Chowk, though this name is seldom used) is JANTAR MANTAR
Hospital for Birds (Map p97; %23090921; donations wel- assassinated in 1984, and grandsons Sanjay packed with expensive shops, Western chain Just a short stroll south from Connaught
comed; h9am-6pm) here is run by the Jains, who (who died in 1980) and Rajiv (died 1991) were restaurants, bookshops and street vendors. Place, this impressive collection of salmon-
believe in the preservation of all life – even the also cremated in this vicinity. It’s divided into blocks, from A to F. You’ll coloured structures (Map p100; Sansad Marg; Indian/for-
scruffiest of street pigeons. The western end of The Raj Ghat area is now a beautiful park. see which block you’re on from the letter eigner Rs 5/100, camera/video Rs 4/25; h9am-sunset) was
Chandni Chowk is marked by the mid-17th- The Gandhi Memorial Museum (Map p97; %23311793; painted onto the sides of buildings at each one of Jaipuri Maharaja Jai Singh II’s amazing
century Fatehpuri Masjid (Map p97) mosque, admission free; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) inside it radial road junction, and often on individual observatories. Constructed in 1725 it’s domi-
commissioned by one of the emperor Shah contains memorabilia and photos. establishments’ signs. nated by a huge sundial, which looks a lot
Jahan’s wives. The stretch in-between is best In the centre of the circle is the calm central like a staircase leading to nowhere, known as
tackled either on foot, or by cycle-rickshaw, CORONATION PARK park, (hsunrise to sunset Tue-Sun) which makes a Samrat Yantra, or Prince of Dials. Other instru-
whose drivers are adept at weaving through North of Old Delhi, in a desolate field known welcome place to sip a takeaway coffee in ments were built to plot the course of heavenly
packed traffic. as Coronation Park (Map pp92–3), stands a lone relative peace. bodies and predict eclipses and, though much
granite obelisk commemorating the crowning The middle circle, known, unsurprisingly, of the original marble coating has long since
SUNEHRI MASJID here of King George V as Emperor of India. as ‘Middle Circle’, is the smallest and least sig- been reappropriated, it’s well worth a visit, not
Just south of the Red Fort is the Sunehri It’s hard to imagine that this forgotten and nificant of the three circles, with a backstreet only for the learned astronomer.
Masjid (Map p97). In 1739 Nadir Shah, windswept site was the place where, in 1877 feel and just a scattering of hotels and small
the Persian invader, stood on the roof of and 1903, grandiose theatrical durbars (cer- eating establishments. FIROZ SHAH KOTLA
this mosque and watched calmly while his emonial gatherings), featuring the full set of The outer circle (also known as ‘Connaught The ruins of Firozabad (the fifth city of Delhi;
soldiers conducted a bloody massacre of Indian rulers, paid homage to Queen Victoria Circus’ or ‘Indira Chowk’ but commonly re- p89), erected by Firoz Shah in 1354, can be
Delhi’s inhabitants. and her successor, Edward VII. ferred to simply as part of Connaught Place), found at Firoz Shah Kotla (Map pp92-3; Indian/
 100 D E L H I • • C o n n a u g h t P l a c e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D E L H I • • S i g h t s 101

0 200 m INFORMATION EATING Optical Corner of India............. 42 C3

CONNAUGHT PLACE
DELHI

DELHI
0 0.1 miles
American Express........................1 B3 Banana Leaf.............................. 23 C4 Palika Bazaar.............................43 B4
Bookworm..................................2 C3 Embassy....................................24 C3 People Tree...............................44 B4
To Old Delhi British Council............................ 3 D5 Kwality Restaurant..................(see 44) Rangarsons Music Depot........(see 21)
To New Delhi (3.5km)
Citibank..................................(see 51) Nizam's Kathi Kabab.................25 C2 Rikhi Ram..................................45 B3

State
Train Station (200m);
Paharganj (1km) Citibank ATM............................. 4 C2 Parikrama................................. 26 D5 Soma........................................ 46 C2

Entry R
Delhi Photo Company...............(see 8) Sagar .....................................(see 21) State Emporiums...................... 47 A4
DHL............................................5 C5 Saravana Bhavan...................... 27 C5 Vedi Tailors............................... 48 C3
See Paharganj Map (p110)

d
DSIDC Cyber Café...................... 6 C4 The Spice Route.....................(see 19)
Paharganj English Book Store......................7 C2 United Coffee House................28 C3 TRANSPORT
Government of India Tourist Veda.........................................29 B3 Aeroflot.................................... 49 C5
Office..................................... 8 C5 Wenger's..................................30 B3 Air France................................. 50 C4
ICICI ATM...................................9 B3 Zen........................................... 31 C3 Air India.................................... 51 B4
See Old Delhi Map (p97) Kinsey Bros...............................(see 9) Delhi Transport Corporation..... 52 C4

Chelmsford Rd
To Karol New Book Depot.......................10 B3 DRINKING El Al Israel Airlines...................(see 58)
Bagh (4km)
Post Office (Branch)..................11 B3 1911.......................................(see 19) Emirates....................................53 B5
Minto Thomas Cook.........................(see 19) Agni..........................................32 B4 Ex-Servicemen's Air Link
Ba Bridge
san
t L Thomas Cook........................... 12 C3 Barista...................................... 33 C4 Transport Service....................54 C4
a

Rd
Western Union......................... 13 C4 Blues......................................... 34 C4 Gulf Air.....................................55 B3

da
howk) Costa Coffee............................ 35 D3 Indian Airlines........................... 56 C4

an
dira C 46

ek
s (In 37 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES DV8........................................(see 44) Japan Airlines........................... 57 C6
ircu

Viv
C 16 21 Minto Jantar Mantar...........................14 B5 KLM - Royal Dutch Airlines...... 58 D5
Radial Rd 4
t 25 K
gh Bridge Train

7 Station Malhotra Building...................(see 56) ENTERTAINMENT Kumar Tourist Taxi Service......(see 21)
au

H
nn

5
Odeon Cinema......................... 36 C3 Lufthansa Airlines..................... 59 C5
Co

Rd
le
irc SLEEPING PVR Plaza Cinema.................... 37 C2 Malaysian Airlines...................(see 62)

l
L
dia
29 C C 12
Ra 17 Hotel Blue................................. 15 D3 Regal Cinema............................38 B4 Pakistan International
le

2 36
idd

B 35
Hotel Fifty Five..........................16 B2 Airlines...............................(see 62)
M

31 D Shankar
45 42
18 d6 Market
Hotel Jukaso Inn.......................17 C3 SHOPPING Prepaid Autorickshaw Booth.....60 B3
10 24 lR
dia
55 Connaught Ra 48 Hotel Palace Heights.................18 C3 Central Cottage Industries Qantas...................................(see 58)
Place Super Bazaar
Imperial Hotel...........................19 B6 Emporium............................. 39 C6 Royal Nepal Airlines

30
Shaheed Bhagat Sin
gh Marg 15 YMCA Tourist Hostel................ 20 A5 Handpaper World...................(see 40) Corporation........................(see 27)

G 1

A York Hotel................................ 21 C2 Janpath (Tibetan) Market......... 40 C4 Scandinavian Airlines..............(see 19)
Central E
Shivaji Park 28 M
11 YWCA International Guest Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan.......41 B4 Shivaji Stadium Terminal........... 61 A3
In n e

Stadium 61
9
k)

Connaught House................................... 22 A6 New Prominent Tailors............(see 46) Singapore Airlines..................... 62 D4

r

ow

d 2
l R
Ci

Jain Mandir Rd c Place

Ch

dia 60 le
r

Ra ji v
(R a
13
ool
La F Gopal Das foreigner Rs 5/100, video Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset), just off ally sought a compromise, creating buildings
Sch Bhavan
Ara
ya 41 54 6 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg. In the fortress- with neoclassical solidity but the occasional
k)

palace is a 3rd-century-BC, 13m-high sand- local flourish. Though some might argue that
w

56 o 62
Ch
Radial Rd 1

N 23
47 Regal
38 43
33
In
di
ra Ba
rak
ha stone Ashoka pillar where locals burn incense the two styles never really synthesised success-
Building 34 s( mb
fully, there’s no doubting that New Delhi’s
tC
ircu a
Rd on Thursday nights to appease the spirits
augh
44 51 C onn thought to live inside. The remains of an old commanding edifices remain as impressive
52 50
mosque and a well can also be seen in the area, today as when they formed the focal point of
32 ght
La but most of Firozabad’s ruins were used for the the British Raj.
40 nau
Con construction of later cities.
Rd
Ka

ma
n RAJPATH
stu

8 26
nu
Ha 53
Immensely broad Rajpath (Kingsway) is a focal
rba

DLF LAKSHMI NARAYAN TEMPLE

Ga

Centre
(BIRLA MANDIR) point of Lutyens’ New Delhi where, on 26
nd
hi

See New Delhi & Around Map (pp102-3) Directly west of Connaught Place is the large January each year, thousands gather to wit-
Ma

ness the spectacle of the Republic Day parade

rg

Ansal
Bhavan
58 and welcoming Hindu Lakshmi Narayan Temple
20 59 3
(Map pp92-3; Mandir Marg; h4am-1.30pm & 2.30-9pm), (see p99).
Janpath

Rd 27
14
erected in 1938 by the rich industrialist BD At the eastern end of Rajpath is India Gate
arg

gh
Sin
M

49 5
Jai (Map pp102–3), around which families and
Birla and opened in 1939 by Mahatma Gandhi.
ad

Tolstoy Marg
ns

The main temple is dedicated to Lakshmi, god- couples like to mill aimlessly, particularly on
Sa

22
39 dess of wealth, while its soothing gardens make weekends and warm evenings. Designed by
for serene respite from a Delhi day. Lutyens in 1921, it comprises a 42m-high
19
memorial arch and bears the names of around
Janpath La

Chandralok Rd
Building
Ha
iley New Delhi & Around 90,000 Indian army soldiers who died in
WWI, the North-West Frontier operations
Jantar

57
New Delhi, designed by British archi-
tect Edwin Lutyens, was inaugurated on 9 and the 1919 Afghan fiasco. You’ll also see
Mantar Rd

February 1931 as the new administrative an empty stone platform, which once held a
To India
Gate (1.3km) centre of the British empire. Though Lutyens statue of King George V, now banished to a
Patel Chowk
himself hated Indian architecture, he eventu- remote spot in Coronation Park (p98).
 102 D E L H I • • N e w D e l h i & A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D E L H I • • N e w D e l h i & A r o u n d 103

0 1 km
NEW DELHI & AROUND
DELHI

DELHI
0 0.5 miles
79 78
22 36 Rd Tilak Bridge Train
As g h Tolstoy Marg Station
rg Sin Rd 45
Ma ho 63 21

Janpath
h ka Jai iley Mandi Sikandra Rd
ing Ha La

Janpath La
S Rd

Bh
6 rak kil House
a 42 Wa 76

ag
Kh 77

Jantar Mantar Rd
Talkatora

w
ba Ma

Pandit Pant Rd

Copernicus Marg

an
Gardens Ba ha Patel 18
de

ar g
Da
v Chowk Pragati
Rd La

M
Southern See Connaught Maidan

Rd
46 Place Map (p100) ht a

North Ave
Me

k
Ridge Ta

rg

a
lka Br

Til
Ma
Forest

Ka
tor
aR Rd Rd Indraprastha

st
h ing
Sha

ad

urb
d nn
oz Ca

ns
Fir

Rafi Marg

a
Sa

Ga
nd
hi

Yamuna Ri
s

Re
Cre

d RP
La

Ma
C Pragati
Rd ros Pragati
n

Church Rd s Maidan

rg
gdo

53 Maidan
Dr Rajendra
Rd Prasad Rd Train Station
Willin

a Rd

Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Marg

isin Qila

Brassey Ave

ver
Ra
President's ana
Estate 54 Central Pur
Secretariat War
51

Jaswant Singh Rd
Memorial
59 Arch 34
Delhi Rajpath 39
55 National Bhairon Marg
Polo Stadium
Club Mughal
Gardens 44 31
43
Maulana Azad Rd

Ring
Th Rd Jaipur
ya aj Mo 25
g mr tila Gate Boating
ara Ka Meena

Rd (M
j lN Pandara Lake
M eh Bagh Market 50
arg ru

Kri

Rd
Rd 68 69

Man Singh Rd
shn

G Rd
South Ave

n
Motilal

Pandara Rd
jah

Mathura Rd
a M
Nehru
g

19 72
ar

Ka

)
ah
Rd Place
lM

eno
mr

Sh
sh ak
te

aj
61
Rajaji Marg

Ku 60

n
Pa

ar
La
Ka

Ma
rd ut La Pandara
Sa il n d

rg
ya e no Hu
ma Park i R Sunder

Dr
M a M yu art Kaka Nagar Delhi Zoo
To Bukhara (1.5km); Dum ar 26 d sh n Te nR Bh To Sarai Kale

Za
g iR Kri es Nagar
urt d
nia
m (National Khan ISBT

kir
Pukht (1.5km); Maurya Sheraton 48 d Jan
nM r R ua ith ma 85 Zoological Gardens) (1km)

Pr
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 104 D E L H I • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D E L H I • • S i g h t s 105

INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Maharani Guest House............. 61 G3 tory, the Afghan king defeating Mughal ruler sculptures dating back to the Mauryan pe-
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Alliance Française........................1 E5 Archaeological Survey Oberoi..................................... 62 G4 Humayun, before Humayun regained control riod, miniature and mural paintings, musical
Australian Embassy..................... 2 B4 of India................................31 E2 YWCA Blue Triangle Family of India in 1545. instruments, manuscripts, tapestries, tribal
Bahri & Sons...........................(see 82) Bara Gumbad............................32 E4 Hostel...................................63 D1
Bhutan Embassy......................... 3 A5 Claridges Hotel......................... 33 D4
Entry is through the west gate, from which masks, swords, spears and plenty more. The
Canadian Embassy...................... 4 A5 Crafts Museum......................... 34 G2 EATING there are good views of Delhi, and beside which most important exhibits are all grouped
Central Bank of India..................5 B4 Delhi Golf Club.........................35 F4 All American Diner....................64 E5 is a small archaeological museum (admission free; on the ground floor and, handily, an audio
Cyber Graphics.......................(see 82) Gurdwara Bangla Sahib.............36 D1 Basil and Thyme........................65 B4
Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hotel Samrat.............................37 B4 Chona's....................................66 E4
h10am-5pm Mon-Thu). Inside you’ll find calm- tour is included in the price of the ticket
Hospital..................................6 C1 Humayun's Tomb..................... 38 H4 Fujiya........................................ 67 A4
ing gardens, Sher Shah’s beautifully patterned (though you’ll need to leave a credit card,
Dutch Embassy........................... 7 A5 India Gate.................................39 F2 Gulati........................................68 F3 Qila-i-Kuhran Mosque (Mosque of Sher Shah) and, passport, or cash deposit). It’s well worth a
French Embassy..........................8 B4 Indira Gandhi Memorial Ichiban......................................69 F3 near the south gate, the small, octagonal red- half-day of wandering, and perfect for a rainy
Full Circle Bookstore....................9 E4 Museum............................... 40 C4 Lodi, The Garden Restaurant.....70 E5
German Embassy...................... 10 A5 Lodi Gardens.............................41 E5 Mrs Kaur's Premium Cookies....71 E4
sandstone tower, the Sher Mandal, built as an ob- monsoon morning.
Guardini Drycleaners.................11 E4 Morarji Desai National Institute Pindi Restaurant........................72 F3 servatory and later used by emperor Humayun Next door is the Archaeological Survey of India
India Habitat Centre...............(see 64) of Yoga.................................42 D1 The Kitchen...............................73 E4 as a library. It was while descending the stairs (Map pp102-3; %23010822; Janpath; h9.30am-1.30pm
India International Centre..........12 E4 National Gallery of Modern Art..43 F3 of this tower in 1556 that the emperor slipped & 2-6pm Mon-Fri). Publications available at this
Irish Embassy............................ 13 D5 National Museum......................44 E2 DRINKING
Israeli Embassy..........................14 E3 National Museum of Natural Big Chill.....................................74 E4
and sustained injuries from which he later died. office cover all the main sites in India.
Italian Embassy......................... 15 A5 History...................................45 F1 Café Turtle................................75 E4 This, sadly, isn’t the Purana Qila’s only grizzly
Italian Institute of Culture.......(see 15) National Philatelic Museum.......46 D1 tale: during Partition in 1947, Muslim refu- National Gallery of Modern Art
Japanese Embassy..................... 16 B5 Nehru Memorial Museum.........47 C3 ENTERTAINMENT gees flocked here to await transport onward to
Malaysian Embassy................... 17 A5 Nehru Planetarium....................48 C3 Kamani Auditorium....................76 F1
This gallery (Map pp102-3; % 23382835; Jaipur
Max Mueller Bhavan.................18 E1 Nizam-ud-din's Shrine.............. 49 G5 Sangeet Natak Akademi............77 F1 Pakistan; many thousands of them didn’t make Gate; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/150, photography prohibited;
Ministry of Home Affairs (Foreigners Purana Qila.............................. 50 G3 Shri Ram Centre........................78 F1 it, being slaughtered on the way. h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), formerly the maharaja of
Division)................................19 E3 Rashtrapati Bhavan (President's Triveni Kala Sangam..................79 F1 Jaipur’s grandiose Delhi residence, displays
Myanmar (Burma) Embassy...... 20 A4 House)..................................51 C2
Nepalese Embassy......................21 F1 Safdarjang's Tomb.................... 52 D5 SHOPPING MUSEUMS & GALLERIES more than 300 contemporary paintings by
New Delhi Main Post Office Sansad Bhavan......................... 53 C2 C Lal & Sons..............................80 E5 National Philatelic Museum Indian artists. Upstairs houses the impres-
(GPO)...................................22 C1 Secretariat (North Block)........... 54 C2 Jor Bagh Market........................81 E5 Close to the parliament at Sansad Bhavan, sive permanent collection, consisting of
New Zealand Embassy.............. 23 A5 Secretariat (South Block)........... 55 C2 Khan Market.............................82 E4
Pakistani Embassy.....................24 B4 Sikander Lodi's Tomb................56 E4 Mittal Tea House...................... 83 G3
this museum (Map pp102-3; %23036727; Sadar Patel largely post-1930s works and representing
RTDC Tourist Reception Centre..25 F3 SOS Childrens Village............... 57 G4 Regalia Tea House.................... 84 G3 Chowk, Sansad Marg; admission free, photography prohib- all of India’s great modern painters, while
Sri Lankan High Commission.....26 B3 Tibet House..............................58 E5 Sunder Nagar Market............... 85 G3 ited; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) is tucked away in the the ground floor is home to changing ex-
Swiss Embassy.......................... 27 A4 Vijay Chowk............................. 59 D2 Dak Bhavan post office. There are over 1600 hibits. Check Time Out or First City (p91)
Thai Embassy............................ 28 A5 TRANSPORT
Tibet House Library................(see 58) SLEEPING Bikaner House.........................(see 25) exhibits, covering every single stamp issued for current exhibition listings.
UK Embassy..............................29 B4 Devna.....................................(see 60) Indian Airlines (Safdarjang Airfield since Independence, some extremely beauti-
US Embassy..............................30 B4 La Sagrita Tourist Home........... 60 G3 Office).................................. 86 D5 ful – though you really need to be a dedicated Nehru Memorial Museum & Planetarium
philatelist to fully appreciate the experience. Teen Murti Bhavan, the former residence
At the opposite end of Rajpath is Rashtrapati viceroy, and required a vast retinue of servants of Jawaharlal Nehru (India’s first prime
Bhavan (President’s House; Map pp102–3), to maintain the 340 rooms and extensive Crafts Museum minister), just off Teen Murti Rd, was
flanked by the two large Secretariat buildings gardens: legend has it that there were 418 Near Pragati Maidan, due north of Purana built as Flagstaff House for the British
(Map pp102–3) which sit on a small rise gardeners alone – 50 of them boys whose sole Qila, is this tranquil museum (Map pp102-3; commander-in-chief, and now houses a
known as Raisina Hill. Topped with small job was to chase away the birds. %23371817; Bhairon Marg; admission free; h10am-5pm museum (Map pp102-3; %23016734; admission free;
domes, they now house the Finance and North of Rajpath, standing at the end of Tue-Sun), containing a collection of traditional h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) on Nehru’s life and
External Affairs ministries. Sansad Marg, is the circular, colonnaded stalls displaying rural India’s various crafts. the Independence movement.
The official residence of the president of Sansad Bhavan (Map pp102–3) which houses There are craft demonstrations along with In the grounds there’s also a planetarium
India, Rashtrapati Bhavan was completed India’s parliament. If you’re keen to watch artisans selling direct to the buyer, all part of (Map pp102-3; %23014504; 45min show Rs 15; hin
in 1929. The palatial building – larger than a parliamentary debate in progress (usu- a contrived, yet still very impressive, ‘village English 11.30am & 3pm Tue-Sun), one of Nehru’s per-
Versailles – exhibits a blend of Mughal and ally in Hindi), contact your embassy in life’ complex. sonal passions, which holds various wonders
Western architectural styles, includes the fa- Delhi, who will need to supply you with an In addition to the reconstructed village including equipment used by India’s first
mous 23m-long Durbar Hall decorated with introductory letter. homes is a fantastic indoor museum with cosmonaut in the 1980s.
coloured marble, which took 20 years to com- several well-kept galleries; you’ll also find a
plete. To its west is a Mughal garden (admission free, PURANA QILA library and a nice fixed-price craft shop. Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum
photography prohibited), styled on Mughal pleasure Back down Rajpath and east of India Gate, The former residence of Prime Minister Indira
gardens by Lutyens, which occupies 130 hec- the crumbling citadel of Purana Qila (Map pp102-3; National Museum Gandhi has been converted into a museum
tares. The garden is only open to the public %24353178; Mathura Rd; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/110, children On Janpath, not far from its junction with (Map pp102-3; %23010094; 1 Safdarjang Rd; admission free;
between mid-February and early March – for under 15 free, video Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset) is known Rajpath, is the National Museum (Map pp102-3; h9.30am-4.45pm Tue-Sun). On show are some of
dates contact the Government of India Tourist as the sixth city of Delhi (p89), built in 1533 %23019272; www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in; Janpath; her personal belongings, including the sari
Office (p94). by Afghan ruler Sher Shah. It’s said to stand Indian/foreigner Rs 10/300, camera Indian/foreigner Rs 20/300, (with blood stains) she was wearing at the
Prior to Independence, Rashtrapati Bhavan on the site of Indraprastha (p89) and marks video prohibited; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), with exhibits time of her assassination, as well as newspaper
was the residence of Mountbatten, India’s last a brief interruption in Dehli’s Mughal his- including Indian bronze, terracotta and wood clippings, letters and photos, and the clothing
 106 D E L H I • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D E L H I • • A c t i v i t i e s 107

her son, Rajiv, was wearing when he too was eventually create the magnificence of Agra’s your head, and stop in at the information occupation. Pieces include sacred manuscripts
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assassinated, in 1991. On the way out, you’ll Taj Mahal. Haji Begum is buried beside her centre near the entrance to pick up a free and thangkas (Tibetan cloth paintings).
pass an enclosed garden in which she walked husband, a fitting reward for a woman who registered guide. There’s also a library (p90), and the Tibet
moments before she was shot by two of her camped outside, overseeing its construction, House Book Corner, which also sells Tibetan CDs
Sikh bodyguards. The path has been covered until it was complete. Bahai House of Worship (Lotus Temple) (Rs 250), postcards (Rs 10), incense (from Rs
in crystal; the clear glass portion marks the This 1986 Bahai Temple (Map pp92-3; %26444029; 25) and prayer flags (Rs 70).
spot where she collapsed. Nizam-ud-din’s Shrine Kalkaji; h9am-7pm summer, 9.30am-5.30pm winter, closed
Across from Humayun’s tomb, off Mathura Mon), stunningly shaped like a white lotus, is Hauz Khas Village
National Museum of Natural History Rd, is the popular shrine (Map pp102-3; h24hr) especially spectacular at dusk when it’s flood- This urban village (Map pp92–3) surrounded
Although nothing to rave about, this museum and tank of the great Muslim Sufi saint lit. It’s set among pools and well-tended gar- by parkland and centred around a pleasant
(Map pp102-3; %23314849; 2nd fl, FICCI Auditorium, Tansen Nizam-ud-din Chishti, who died in 1325, dens, and welcomes adherents of all faiths to deer park, once held the reservoir for the sec-
Marg; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) houses aged 92. Its present incarnation dates pray or meditate silently according to their ond city of Delhi – Siri (p89) – the remains
some noteworthy fossils such as the 160- from 1562, and comprises a marble build- own religion. of which are visible on the western edge of
million-year-old femur of a sauropod, the ing, with the inner tomb surrounded by Remove your shoes before entering, turn the village. Today, Hauz Khas is a tiny, chic
largest land animal ever to have roamed the lattice screens. off mobile phones and refrain from speaking. south-Delhi hideaway, filled with fashionable
earth. Other exhibits include stuffed armadil- Other tombs in the area include the Photography is prohibited inside. art galleries and boutiques.
los and a Tibetan yak, making it a curiously later grave of Princess Jahanara, favourite A number of crumbling tombs are scat-
diverting place to spend an hour or so. daughter of Shah Jahan, who stayed with Akshardham Temple tered about the reservoir area, including Firoz
her father in Agra’s Red Fort during his On Delhi’s outskirts is this huge, extrava- Shah’s tomb (Map pp92–3), commemorating
Rail Transport Museum imprisonment by Aurangzeb. Amir Khusru, gant temple (Map pp92-3; www.akshardham.com; Noida the founder of the fifth city of Delhi, while
Housing almost 30 locomotives and some disciple of Nizam-ud-din and considered by Turning, National Hwy 24; admission free; h9am-6pm the woodlands surrounding it are a popular
interesting old carriages, this museum (Map pp92- many to be the first Urdu poet, also has his Tue-Sun), a pink-sandstone and white-marble destination for early-morning joggers and
3; %26880939; Chanakyapuri; admission Rs 10, children Rs tomb here, just in front of Nizam-ud-din’s edifice inaugurated in 2005 and containing late-evening canoodlers. Also part of the
3, video Rs 100; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) will be a hit own mausoleum. around 20,000 carved deities. Try to visit dur- former old city of Siri, just east of Hauz Khas
with railway buffs. Exhibits include the ma- On most Thursdays and Fridays (from ing weekdays, since the manifold attractions Village, is the Moth-ki Masjid (Map pp92–3),
haraja of Mysore’s personal train, an unusual around 2pm to 8pm), the shrine plays host (including a musical fountain, a large-screen said to be one of the finest mosques in the
100-year-old monorail steam train that runs to hypnotic Qawwali (devotional singing), cinema and an animatronics ‘Hall of Values’) Lodi style.
on Sundays, and various oddities such as the accompanied by a harmonium and tabla are best attempted when it’s not too busy.
skull of an elephant that charged a mail train drums, providing a heady soundtrack with ACTIVITIES
in 1894, and lost. It’s an especially fun place which to imbibe the land-that-time-forgot OTHER SIGHTS Golf
for kids, who can travel round and round on atmosphere of the tightly packed district of Lodi Gardens Delhi Golf Club (Map pp102-3; % 24362235; Dr
the miniature steam train ride (an extra Rs Nizamuddin surrounding the shrine itself. In these well-tended gardens (Map pp102-3; Lodi Zakir Hussain Marg; foreigners weekdays/weekends Rs
10/5 for adults/children), or paddle out onto Rd; h6am-8pm; admission free), popular with jog- 1980/2640hsunrise-sunset) is an old-fashioned
the kayaking pond. Safdarjang’s Tomb gers and young lovers alike, are the crumbling institution with well-tended grounds; on
The mid-18th-century Safdarjang’s tomb (Map 15th- and 16th-century tombs of a string of weekends its fairways are pleasingly filled
Sulabh International Museum of Toilets pp102-3; Aurobindo Marg; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100, video Sayyid and Lodi rulers, including Mubarak to capacity with Delhi notables, worthies
Southwest of the city centre, this quirky Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset) at the western end of Shah (d 1433), Ibrahim Lodi (d 1526) and and old-timers.
museum (Off Map pp92-3; %25053646; Sulabh Complex, Lodi Rd was built by the nawab of Avadh Sikander Lodi (d 1517). The Bara Gumbad (Map
Mahavir Enclave, Palam Dabri Rd; admission free; h10am- for his father, Safdarjang, and is one of the pp102–3) at the centre of the gardens is a Massage & Ayurvedic Treatments
5pm Mon-Sat) houses a small, intriguing collec- last examples of Mughal architecture created 15th-century tomb that sports some interest- Ashtaang (Map pp92-3; %24101802; E-2 Anand Niketan;
tion of toilet-related paraphernalia (from before the final remnants of the great empire ing interior plasterwork, while if minitrees h9am-6pm), opposite Delhi University (South
2500 BC to modern times). A free guided collapsed. As such, it’s an ornate and frothy are your thing, head to the gardens, home Campus), offers authentic Keralan Ayurvedic
tour brings the loos to life. reminder of all that was glorious and grand to the National Bonsai Park, in which you can treatments, such as sirodhara (warm oil driz-
about the Mughals. stroll Gulliver-like. It’s especially nice here zled on the forehead; 45 minutes costs Rs
TOMBS & SHRINES around 6pm, when the sun begins to set, the 1000) and pzhichal (oil-intensive body mas-
Humayun’s Tomb TEMPLES bats to swoop, and the tombs are illuminated, sage; 1¼ hours costs Rs 1200).
Emperor Humayun had this impressive Gurdwara Bangla Sahib hiding – from a distance at least – centuries Beyond Looks (Map pp92-3; %26141517; lower ground
early-Mughal tomb (Map pp102-3; Indian/foreigner Delhi’s largest Sikh temple (Map pp102-3; Ashoka Rd; of graffiti. fl, 15 Poorvi Marg, Vasant Vihar; h8.30am-8.30pm) offers
Rs 10/250, video Rs 25; hsunrise-sunset), built for hsunrise-sunset), with its striking golden domes, an olive/coconut oil massage (one hour costs
him in the mid-16th century by Haji Begum, is constructed at the site where the eighth Sikh Tibet House Rs 400), shiatsu (one hour costs Rs 600) and
his Persian-born senior wife. Elements in its guru, Harkrishan Dev, stayed when he visited Tibet House contains a small museum (Map pp102- sirodhara (1½ hours costs Rs 500).
design – a squat building with high arched Delhi in 1664. The temple tank contains water 3; %24611515; 1 Lodi Rd; admission Rs 10, photography pro- LSA Homecare (%9910397429; www.lsahomecare
entrances that let in light, topped by a bul- believed to have healing properties; locals still hibited; h10am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri), exhibiting .com) is a (legitimate) massage service that will
bous dome and surrounded by formal gar- drink from it, though you might want to give ceremonial items brought out of Tibet when His arrive to pamper you in your hotel room.
dens – were to be refined over the years to that a miss. Dress conservatively, covering Holiness the Dalai Lama fled following Chinese Massages are Rs 600 to Rs 2000, facials Rs
 108 D E L H I • • C o u r s e s lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D E L H I • • T o u r s 109

TOURS cell-like and dreary. The truly diabolical,

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FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD Government of India Tourist Office (p94) Can ar- meanwhile, may be damp, mouldy, home to
If you find yourself frazzled by Delhi’s oppressive summer heat, traffic snarls and pesky touts, there range multilingual, government-approved suspicious stains on the bed-linen, walls, or
are some scenic spots to steal solace. In the cooler months, chill out in the pleasant grounds of guides for Rs 350/500 for a half-/full-day even the ceiling. On the plus side, however,
Humayun’s tomb (p106), Qutb Minar (p126), Safdarjang’s tomb (p106), Lodi Gardens (p107), (maximum five people). there’s plenty of choice, with new ventures
Hauz Khas (p107) and Raj Ghat (p98). Salaam Balak Trust (contact Shekhar %9873130383; opening up all the time, so with a bit of care-
During hotter months, the bars at top-end hotels (p112) – with their powerful AC and comfy Rs 200; h2½hr walks 10am daily) Former street chil- ful prodding and poking, you should be able
interiors – offer revitalising havens, worth the inflated prices for a reviving tipple. Likewise, many dren take you out into the Paharganj streets to find something to suit your taste as well as
of Delhi’s bars (p117) open around noon and provide cool respite, in both senses of the word. they know intimately, introducing you both to your budget.
If a frothy iced-coffee would do the trick, Connaught Place is well equipped (p117), while if you the neighbourhood and to the street children Most backpackers base themselves in
just can’t face the heat and hassle of yet another autorickshaw negotiation, plump for the AC who fight there for survival. Paharganj, a bustling, tourist-oriented enclave
comfort of the underground metro system (p125). Discover Delhi (Contact Kanchan %26891223; Rs near New Delhi train station. For something
Delhi’s modern AC cineplexes (p118) are also terrific spots to beat the summer heat without 300 incl snack; h9am fortnightly on Sat) Runs tours much more mellow, but not nearly as central,
spending a fortune. Movie tickets range from Rs 50 to Rs 150, and that all-important popcorn through various parts of historic Delhi, for try Majnu-ka Tilla, the Tibetan Colony. Here,
will set you back around Rs 50. children aged four to 14, guided by an edu- the prices are low but the hotels generally cosier
cational and social activist. than in Paharganj. If it’s your first time in Delhi,
Hotel Broadway (Map p97; %23273821; 4/15 Asaf Ali however, you may feel a bit disconnected from
1800 to Rs 2700, and nails and waxing Rs 650 meditation. There’s Vedic chanting on some evenings and Rd; Rs 495) Operating from the hotel (p111), two- the action, and the enclave is quite hard to find,
to Rs 2700. Pilates classes too. hour ‘gastronomic walking tours’ of Old Delhi especially if you’re arriving at night.
Sushumna Studio (%9871930150) Ashtanga, yoga- include lunch at Chor Bizarre (see p113). In the following budget listings, only the
Swimming lates (a yoga-Pilates combo) and other classes, taught by a Master Guest House (Map pp92-3; %28741089; R- cheapest, non-AC room rates have been given;
Deluxe hotels have the best pools but they’re London-trained expert. 500 New Rajendra Nagar) This guesthouse (p112) the AC rooms, where available, cost around
restricted to guests. Some of the more modest Tushita Meditation Centre (%26513400) Twice- offers personalised tours – such as ‘Hidden several hundred rupees more.
upmarket hotels permit outsiders (for a stout weekly Tibetan/Buddhist meditation sessions. Delhi’ (includes Old Delhi) – with a knowl-
amount). Claridges Hotel (Map pp102-3; %23010211; edgeable guide. Tours cost the rupee equiva- NORTH DELHI
12 Aurangzeb Rd; per person Rs 900), the Radisson Hotel DELHI FOR CHILDREN lent of US$15, which includes breakfast Old Delhi
(p113; per person Rs 500) and Hotel Samrat (Map pp102-3; Though Delhi might not seem the obvious and snacks. Few travellers stay in Old Delhi since it’s gen-
%26110606; Chanakyapuri; per person Rs 300) are three destination for tiny people, there’s a wealth erally easier to be based near the amenities of
to try. of activities to entertain both big and small. SLEEPING Paharganj or Connaught Place, but for those
Cultural centres often have activities on offer: It’s wise to book a room in advance as Delhi’s who wish to, there are a couple of reasonable
COURSES check Time Out listings (p91). most salubrious places can fill up in a flash, hotels near the Jama Masjid.
See p91 for publications containing up-to- For a day outdoors, head first to Delhi Zoo leaving new arrivals easy prey for commis- Hotel New City Palace (Map p97; %23289923;
the-minute details of various courses. (Map pp102-3; Indians/foreigners Rs 10/50; h8am-6pm sion sharks (see p95). During the low season 725 Jama Masjid Motor Mkt; s/d Rs 250/350; a) Clean
Sat-Thu in summer, 9am-5pm Sat-Thu in winter), the big- (around mid-April to mid-August) room dis- though claustrophobic rooms but still bet-
Meditation & Yoga gest zoo in India (though in quite a sorry counts of at least 20% are often negotiable. ter than most other Old Delhi cheapies; the
Telephone for session timings and, if not state), with rare white Bengal tigers. Much Hotels with a minimum tariff of Rs 500 pricier rooms have windows and AC, and
stated below, venues. Where there are no fees, more fun than the zoo, though, is the 1950s- charge a 12.5% luxury tax. Some places, espec- there’s plenty of hot water on tap.
donations are appreciated. throwback Rail Transport Museum (p106), the ially at the top end of the range, also whack on Hotel Bombay Orient (Map p97; %23242691; s/d
Ashtaang (Map pp92-3; %24101802; E-2 Anand deer park at Hauz Khas Village (p107), and the an additional service charge (of 6% to 10%); Rs 350/450) One of the most appealing choices
Niketan; 1hr Rs 500) Beginner and advanced hatha yoga, boating lake (p104; Rs 40 per boat for 30 mins; hnoon- beware, too, that those charging in dollars in the area; ensure, though, that you look at
including meditation. 7pm summer, 11am-6pm winter) in front of Purana may have a ‘fixed’ dollar rate that differs from a few rooms, as some are much newer and
Dhyan Foundation (www.dhyanfoundation.com) Qila. Discover Delhi (opposite) runs fortnightly the actual exchange rate of the day. Taxes nicer than others.
Meditation classes plus one-day workshops introducing tours of the city for children between the ages aren’t included in the reviews in this chapter
participants to sanatan kriya (rotation exercises, yoga and of four and 14. unless indicated, and all rooms have private Paharganj Area
meditation). Check the website for details and various For indoor activities, the National Museum of bathrooms unless otherwise stated. Paharganj isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, with its
Delhi branch phone numbers. Natural History (p106) might amuse some chil- Many hoteliers urge travellers to call or reputation for drugs and shady characters.
Laughter Yoga (%27217164) Giggle yourself to well- dren, while Shankar’s International Dolls Museum email to confirm their reservation 24 hours Nevertheless, it’s walking distance from New
being with an early-morning laughter yoga session in one (Map pp92-3; %23316970; Nehru House, 4 Bahadur Shah before arrival (hotel owners complain that Delhi train station and is the place to tap into
of Delhi’s parks. Zafar Marg; admission Rs 10; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), with travellers don’t bother calling to cancel, just the busy backpacker network. Most budget
Morarji Desai National Institute of Yoga (Map 6500 dolls from more than 80 countries, will as frequently as travellers complain that their hotels offer nondescript, poorly ventilated
pp102-3; %23730417; www.yogamdniy.com; 68 Ashoka appeal to others. Connaught Place has a hotel bookings aren’t always honoured). and sun-starved rooms on the Main Bazaar
Rd) Includes pranayama and hatha yoga, meditation, number of bookshops, toy shops and stalls main drag, or in the numerous (nameless)
stress-management and various diploma courses. selling things both edifying and of the flash- Budget alleys snaking off it.
Studio Abhyas (%26962757) Yoga classes (1¼ hours) ing, squealing variety, along with a legion of Delhi’s budget bunch of places to stay is de- Hotel Navrang (Map p110; %23581965; Tooti Chowk,
combine asanas (fixed body positions), pranayama and child-friendly Western-style eating options. cidedly lacklustre, with rooms typically small, Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 100/120) Very rudimentary,
 110 D E L H I • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D E L H I • • S l e e p i n g 111

0 200 m cheerful shade of pink, and the place generally all else fails, with a roof terrace of sorts and
PAHARGANJ
DELHI

DELHI
0 0.1 miles
gets very good traveller feedback. reliable hot water. Avoid the inaptly named
Hotel Rak International (Map p110; %23562478; Hotel Bright downstairs.
INFORMATION Hotel Relax............................ 14 B4 Tooti Chowk, Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 300/400; a) All the

See Old Delhi Map (p97)

Bank of Punjab ATM................ 1 C2
Chequepoint Foreign
Major's Den........................... 15
Metropolis Tourist Home....... 16
A3
A4
rooms at this popular option have windows, Midrange
Exchange............................. 2 C4 Prince Polonia........................ 17 A3 making them a cut above much of the compe- NORTH DELHI
Cyber Station........................... 3 C4
HDFC ATM.............................. 4 A4
Vivek Hotel............................ 18 B4 tition. Though modest, they’re generally clean Old Delhi
ICICI ATM............................... 5 A3 EATING and the management is efficient. Hotel Broadway (Map p97; %23273821; broadway@
International Tourist Bureau..... 6 D3 Diamond Restaurant.............. 19 B4
Major’s Den (Map p110; %23589010; d Rs 500-550;

Qutb Rd
UTI ATM...............................(see 5) Everest Bakery Café............... 20 C4
oldworldhospitality.com; 4/15 Asaf Ali Rd; s/d Rs 1500/2595;
Metropolis Restaurant & Bar..(see 16) a) Away from the flurry of Main Bazaar, a) Broadway’s great Chor Bizarre restaur-
SLEEPING Sam's Café..........................(see 18)
Ajay Guest House.................... 7 A4 Sonu Restaurant..................... 21 B4
the rooms are extremely sparse and basic, ant (p113) and ‘gastronomic walking tours’
Hare Krishna Guest House....... 8 A4
Ram
but this is made up for, to some extent, by (p109) are more thrilling than the rooms
Hare Rama Guest House.......... 9 B4 DRINKING
Hotel Downtown................... 10 C4
Nagar
Hotel Gold Regency............... 22 C3 the charismatic presence of the spritely retired which, though slightly gloomy, are certainly
Hotel Namaskar..................... 11 B3 Major who lives on site, and who is exceed- clean and well kept.
Hotel Navrang........................ 12 B3 ENTERTAINMENT
Hotel Rak International.......... 13 B3
A ka sh
ImperialraCinema.....................
an R d 23 A3 ingly proud of his solar hot-water system.
Paharganj Area
1
Majnu-ka Tilla Prince Polonia (Map p110; %23581930; [email protected]
u Rd
Rd

Alongside the Yamuna, north of Civil Lines, .net.in; 2325 Tilak Gali; s/d Rs 900/1000; ai) Unusually
Rajgur
gupta

is this peaceful enclave also known as the for the area, most of Prince Polonia’s rooms
Chitra

D es h
Tibetan Colony. Not nearly as centrally lo- are equipped with windows, and some even
B a n d h u G u t pt a Rd
cated as Paharganj, but with better-value go so far as to have balconies. The staff are
rooms and less hype, it’s perfect if you’re all friendly and keen to please, most rooms have
Chelmsford Delhi-ed out. There’s a sprinkling of cheap TVs and attempts at decoration, and there’s
6 Tibetan eateries, shops and internet centres. a nice rooftop restaurant, beside which is an
New Delhi
Paharganj Wongdhen House (Map pp92-3; %23816689; wong empty swimming pool, sadly closed by order
Rd

Train Station
5
23
17 15 11 an [email protected]; s/d from Rs 200/275; a) Hidden of the authorities.
Chandiwal

ali 13 towards the bottom of an alleyway, this is the Vivek Hotel (Map p110; %51541435; 1534-1550 Main
Tilak G 12 22 pick of the area’s bunch, welcoming weary Bazaar; d Rs 1000-1850; ai) Recently renovated,
r 2
Bazaa 20 travellers with its sizable rooms, courteous Vivek tries hard to provide its guests with a
State E

18 Main
d
tR

3
10 staff and a breezy rooftop terrace sporting comfortable stay. Many double rooms come
san

8 19 New Delhi
ntry Rd

16 21
Yamuna River views. The restaurant cooks with bathtub and the owner’s own line in
Ba

Nehru
7 Bazaar
4 9
14 everything from banana pancakes (Rs 40) to headboards, and the suite is especially decent.
See Connaught Place Map (p100) phing sha (Tibetan noodles with mincemeat, Sam’s Café (p114), up on the roof, serves a
Rs 50). hearty line-up of dishes.
RK
Ashram Peace House (Map pp92-3; %23939415; d AC/4th/ Hotel Relax (Map p110; %23562811; vidur109@hot
Rd

Marg
ra

3rd/2nd/1st fl Rs 725/175/275/325/325) Down a little mail.com; Nehru Bazaar; d Rs 1200; a) Its business
wa

RK
md

Ashram Marg
side street and quite hard to spot, the hotel’s cards, curiously, proclaim that this hotel of-
Ra

sign mysteriously reads ‘Peace STD’ rather fers ‘day and night service’. The knick-knack
cell-like rooms (especially the singles), and some are much better than others, so than ‘hotel’. It offers plain but neat rooms filled hallways belie standard, spartan rooms,
but it’s friendly, there’s hot water by the check a selection before you move in. There’s and whenever hunger strikes, a nice plate of but the balconies make a good place to sit and
bucketful for Rs 10, and the prices are among also a very basic dorm-bed option (Rs 80), steamed momos (Tibetan dumplings, Rs 20) watch bazaar life go by.
Delhi’s lowest. with 16 beds, equipped with threadbare in its ground-floor restaurant. Metropolis Tourist Home (Map p110; %23561794;
Hare Krishna Guest House (Map p110; %41541341; sheets, to one room. Also recommended are: [email protected]; 1634 Main Bazaar; d Rs 1200-
[email protected]; 1572 Main Bazaar; s/d Rs Ajay Guest House (Map p110; %23583125; ajay 5084@ IDA House (Map pp92-3; %23813960; d Rs 250) 1500; a) Good rooms (some with balcony)
200/250) Apart from being smallish, the well- hotmail.com; 5084 Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 250/350; ai) Lhasa House (Map pp92-3; %23939777; d Rs 350; with TV, fridge and clean bathrooms that
worn rooms are in pretty good shape (for Luring travellers more for its chilled-out vibe a) receive more natural light than most other
Paharganj), it’s fairly cosy, and there’s a than its insipid, ragged rooms, Ajay’s has a White House (Map pp92-3; %23813944; d Rs 250; Paharganj hotels. There’s also a pleasant
rooftop restaurant. rooftop café and pool table. a) rooftop restaurant (p114).
Hare Rama Guest House (Map p110; %35361301; Hotel Namaskar (Map p110; %23583456; www
[email protected]; T-298 Main Bazaar; s/d Rs .namaskarhotel.com; 917 Chandiwalan, Main Bazaar; d from Rs CENTRAL DELHI West of Paharganj
200/250; ai) Rooms are clean, good value 300; a) The star attractions of this hotel are Connaught Place Area Yatri House (Map pp92-3; %23625563; www.yatrihouse
and have cool tiled walls and floors, but some its two helpful brothers, who, apart from dis- Hotel Blue (Map p100; %23416666; hotelblue@indiatimes .com; 3/4 Panchkuian Marg; s/d Rs 3000/3500; a) Serenity
are notably sunlight deprived. pensing useful advice, can arrange car hire and .com; 2nd fl, M-126; s/d Rs 800/1200, without bathroom Rs just steps from the madness of Main Bazaar,
Hotel Downtown (Map p110; %51541529; 4583 Main tours in and beyond Delhi and in Rajasthan. 600/800; ai) Up a dingy stairwell to the top on a lane off Panchkuian Marg, this guest-
Bazaar; s/d from Rs 200/300) The rooms are smallish Most of the 32 simple rooms are painted in a floor, its 13 rooms are an acceptable choice if house boasts a green lawn, open-air courtyard
 112 D E L H I • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D E L H I • • E a t i n g 113

and well-kept, nicely decorated rooms. For and dinner; there’s a pool and a gym for an and a terrific tandoori restaurant attached. Eat fitness centre and a few smart restaurants
DELHI

DELHI
Paharganj and the surrounding area, it’s by extra fee. a complimentary breakfast whilst gazing down (see p117).
far the best of the bunch for its price range; it’s YWCA International Guest House (Map p100; at the early morning Connaught Place action.
also very popular; reservations – well ahead %23361561; www.ywcaindia.org; 10 Sansad Marg; s/d Rs Highly recommended, as well, for people trav- EATING
of time – are strongly advised. 1556/1980; ai) With the same institutional elling with children. Catering to every palate and pocket, eating
feel as the YMCA, the rooms are certainly The Manor (Map pp92-3; www.themanordelhi.com; d out in Delhi is a highlight. The following rec-
Rajendra Nagar Area nothing exciting but they’re secure and US$220;ai) Tucked away in upscale New ommendations barely scratch the culinary
Master Guest House (Map pp92-3; %28741089; www relatively clean. Friends Colony, this place might not have surface of what the city has on offer: don’t
.master-guesthouse.com; R-500 New Rajendra Nagar; d from York Hotel (Map p100; %23415769; K-Block; s/d Rs the hype or the extensive facilities of the forget to just follow your nose – and the local
Rs 1850; a) This calm residential guesthouse, 1800/2950; a) A ’70s survivor with brown and usual top-end joints (there is, for instance, in-the-know crowds – to discover your own
located near the Shankar and Ganga Ram beige everywhere you look. The rooms are no pool) but it more than makes up for this slice of heaven.
Hospital Rds crossing is run by a friendly plain and sparse, but functional and clean, in intimacy, great food and tip-top service.
couple. There are just four homely rooms some with new laminate flooring. Try to get a The suite, in particular, makes for a great Old Delhi & Around
(pick from ‘Moghul’, ‘Ganesh’, ‘Krishna’ and ‘backside’ room to cut down on traffic noise. stay, equipped with sculptures, comfy beds, RESTAURANTS
‘Lucky’), all clean and comfortable. Avnish Hotel Fifty Five (Map p100; %23321244; book and one of the biggest TVs you may have Karim’s (Map p97; 16 Gali Kebabian, Jama Masjid;
runs tours of ‘Hidden Delhi’ (see p109). [email protected]; H-55; s/d Rs 2300/2800; a) Small, ever seen. % 23269880; mains Rs 75-180; h 7am-midnight;
warm and friendly, the 15 rooms are sim- Oberoi (Map pp102-3; %24363030; www.oberoidelhi a ) Iconic Karim’s has been delighting
CENTRAL DELHI ple and clean, there’s a nice rooftop ter- .com; Dr Zakir Hussain Marg; s/d from US$346/383; Delhiites since 1913 with its flavoursome,
Ashoka Road race, reliable airport pickup service and free ais) On the edge of the Delhi Golf Club, predominantly nonvegetarian, heavy
YWCA Blue Triangle Family Hostel (Map pp102-3; luggage storage. the Oberoi scores high marks. Discerning Mughlai cuisine. It is really a city institu-
%23360133; [email protected]; Ashoka Rd; s/d Rs Hotel Jukaso Inn (Map p100; %23415450; jukaso@ service and elegant rooms make it especially tion and worth every second of the hunt to
1136/1975; ai) Open to both sexes, you vsnl.com; L-Block; s/d Rs 3000/3850; ai) Though this popular with business people. find the place; during Ramadan, it opens
must become a temporary member (Rs 20, place has decent, recently renovated rooms, Maurya Sheraton Hotel & Towers (Off Map pp102-3; after sunset.
valid for one month) to stay. The dormitory is even equipped with small flat-screen TVs, %26112233; [email protected]; Sardar Moti Mahal (Map p97; %23273661; 3704 Netaji
commendable, if a tad tightly packed, and the free wireless internet and a breakfast buf- Patel Marg; d from US$420; ais) This world- Subhash Marg, Daryaganj; mains Rs 100-225; h11am-
private rooms are also nice, despite a linger- fet, it gets bad reviews from travellers for its class hotel has carved a name for itself as one midnight; a) Though a bit shabby around the
ing hint of fragrance à la mothball. All rates unfriendly staff. of Delhi’s finest,with a range of top-notch edges, this is another great Delhi institution.
include tax and breakfast. facilities, including a health club, business It’s particularly noted for its succulent butter
SOUTH DELHI centre, and two excellent restaurants, Bukhara chicken (half/full chicken Rs 150/285), which
Sunder Nagar Home Away from Home (Map pp92-3; %26560289; 1st (p115) and Dum Pukht (see p115). tastes especially good when eaten outside, in
The leafy, upmarket suburb of Sunder Nagar fl, D-8 Gulmohar Park; s/d from Rs 1375/1575; a) Owned Imperial Hotel (Map p100;%23341234; www.the summer, in the large courtyard.
is about 3km southeast of Connaught Place. by Mrs Kamte – who lives on site and keeps imperialindia.com; Janpath; d from US$495; ais) Chor Bizarre (Map p97; % 23273821; Hotel
Maharani Guest House (Map pp102-3; %24359521; the place in tiptop condition – there are just the rates at this exceptionally fine old Delhi Broadway, 4/15 Asaf Ali Rd; mains Rs 115-250, veg/nonveg
[email protected]; 3 Sunder Nagar; s/d Rs 2700/3300; ai) two warm, clean rooms here, each tastefully Art-Deco jewel continue to climb steeply, thalis Rs 260/325; hnoon-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm; a)
With clean, comfortable rooms lacking in furnished. Hush and Puppy, the pet basset making it ever more expensive to sample its Wonderful Kashmiri and Mughlai fare in
atmosphere, this hotel is a veritable rabbit hounds, appreciate a tummy tickle. sumptuous interiors and top-class service. quirky surrounds – there’s a vintage car that
warren. Check out a few rooms before you It’s worth dropping in for a drink or dinner, serves as a salad bar, and even a four-poster
decide (avoid the damp underground ones); Top End though, if the tarrifs seem more ridiculous bed as a table. The sharabi kababi tikka –
the higher floors are generally airier and Devna (Map pp102-3; %24355047; 10 Sunder Nagar; d than sublime. chicken in a rich cream-and-tomato sauce –
less claustrophobic. from Rs 5000; ai) Formerly known as Ten, is divine.
La Sagrita Tourist Home (Map pp102-3; %2435 this diminutive guesthouse has five lovely, Airport Area
8572; www.lasagrita.com; 14 Sunder Nagar; s/d Rs 3690/4090; antique-filled rooms and extremely friendly Shanti Palace (Map pp92-3; www.shantipalace.com; QUICK EATS
ai) A warm and friendly option, its rooms owners. Without doubt the best choice in National Highway 8; % 5732675; s/d Rs 5450/6600; All along Chandni Chowk, you’ll find stalls
boast wooden floors, comfortable furniture Sunder Nagar for its personal touches, homely ai ) This place receives good reports churning out both sweet and savoury treats.
and nice, clean bathrooms. There’s 24-hour atmosphere and free wi-fi; be sure to enter from travellers as a comfy, convenient op- Make sure you pick a popular one, checking
room service to make up for the lack of through the right-hand gate, so as not to end tion before an early departure or following that the food’s being cooked in front of you,
a restaurant. up in the neighbours’ house. a red-eye arrival. and you shouldn’t have any problems.
oHotel Palace Heights (Map p100; %4352610; Uppal’s Orchid (Map pp92-3; %25061515; www Paratha Wali Gali (Map p97; parathas Rs 30-40) In
Connaught Place Area www.hotelpalaceheights.com; D26-28 Connaught Pl; s/d Rs .uphalsorchidhotel.com; National Highway 8; d from $US200; a lane just behind Ghantewala, off Chandni
YMCA Tourist Hostel (Map p100; %23361915; ymcath@ 5000/5500; ai) At last – a comfortable, cen- ais) Billing itself as an ‘environmentally Chowk, opposite the Central Bank. Come
ndf.vsnl.net.in; Jai Singh Rd; s/d Rs 1150/2000, without tral and welcoming hotel, with top-end serv- conscious ecotel’ this is another comfortable here to feast on parathas (Indian flat
bathroom Rs 750/1400; ais) This prim hos- ice without the exorbitant prices. The rooms top-end choice near the airport. bread) stuffed with fillings such as spiced
tel takes both genders (Rs 30 membership; might be smallish and scraping the upper edge Radisson Hotel (Map pp92-3; %26779191; www.radis aloo (potato), gobi (cauliflower) and pan-
valid for one month); see several rooms, as of the mid-price category, but they’re very well son.com/newdelhiin; National Hwy 8; d US$225; ais) eer (unfermented cheese), all served with
some are dingy. All rates include tax, breakfast decorated, with powerful hot-water showers Apart from its 256 stylish rooms, there’s a simple curries.
 114 D E L H I • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D E L H I • • E a t i n g 115

Jalebiwala (Map p97; Chandni Chowk; jalebis per 500g Connaught Place & Around oh-so-slowly spinning (one revolution takes Fujiya serves Chinese and some Japanese
DELHI

DELHI
from around Rs 50; h9am-9pm) Near the Sisganj RESTAURANTS 1½ hours). The views are superlative, espe- dishes in a serene district of the diplomatic
Gurdwara, Jalebiwala is the place to sink Sagar (Map p100; 15 K-Block; dosas Rs 32-50, thalis Rs 60; cially during the day and the food is decent, enclave. Whether it’s Peking lamb, Szechwan
your teeth into fat, syrupy fried jalebis h8am-11pm; a) A vegetarian dosa dreamland, if not exceptional. chicken, or roast tofu with vegetables, diners
(deep-fried coils of sweet batter dipped Sagar is incredibly popular with Delhiites and its United Coffee House (Map p100; E-Block; mains Rs 165- are rarely disappointed. No reservations are
in sugar-syrup). uttappams (crisp-collared rice-flour and coco- 345; h11am-11pm; a) With old-world charm taken so arrive early.
Ghantewala (Map p97; 1862 Chandni Chowk; Indian nut-milk pancakes from Rs 40) deserve special and pleasing meals, this is a splendid spot Basil & Thyme (Map pp102-3; Santushti Shopping
sweets per kg around Rs 80; h8am-9pm) Also near merit. Other favourites include the onion rava to slow the pace beneath dusty chandeliers. Complex, Chanakyapuri; mains Rs 235-265; h10.30am-
the Sisganj Gurdwara, this simple sweets masala dosa, the dahi vadas (gram-flour balls The menu encompasses a bit of everything, 6pm Mon-Sat; a) A great bet if you’re missing
shop has been in business since 1790 and smothered in spiced yogurt), and the cooling from grilled-cheese sandwiches to rich, Western deli dishes; the menu is packed with
still has a loyal following. Try the divine dahi idli (rice cake dunked in yogurt). filling curries. home comforts such as asparagus tart and
pista samosa, of which you’ll dream long after Saravana Bhavan (Map p100; 46 Janpath; dosas Rs 34- o Veda (Map p100; H26-27 Connaught Pl; pasta with smoked salmon and dill, though,
returning home. 70, thalis Rs 65; h8am-11pm; a) Heavenly Tamil %41513535; mains Rs 450-800; hnoon-3.30pm & 8- like the society ladies who lunch here, you’ll be
Haldiram’s (Map p97; Chandni Chowk; samosas/pakoras food at this unmissable all-vegetarian joint. 11.30pm) A Moulin Rouge fantasy of crushed paying fairly substantially for the privilege.
Rs 5/6, barfi per kg from Rs 100, h9am-10pm; a) A Great-value dosas, idlis and other southern velvet and chandeliers, serving an Indian- Bukhara (Off Map pp102-3;%26112233; Maurya
Delhi legend since 1947, you can rest ach- specialities; don’t miss the Tamil Nadu thali fusion menu, with highlights including tan- Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Sadar Patel Marg; mains Rs 495-695;
ing legs upstairs in the icily air-conditioned served at the sit-down restaurant on the first doori grilled lamb chops. The food is great, h12.30-2.45pm & 7-11.45pm; a) Award-winning
cafeteria, which serves terrific thalis (try the floor. Saravana also has a branch at 15 P- but the atmosphere is really what you’re Bukhara serves North-West Frontier–style cui-
calorific Maharaja Thali for Rs 105), and even Block, Connaught Pl. coming for – sip a martini in plush, glamor- sine with aplomb, and is generally considered
decent small pizzas. Alternatively, eat straight Banana Leaf (Map p100; 12 N-Block; dosas Rs 50-80, ous comfort, forgetting for a second that the Delhi’s very best restaurant. Almost anyone
from the counter, filling up on ladoos (sweet thalis Rs 70-95; h10am-11pm; a) Apart from clamour of Connaught Place is just outside who’s anyone has eaten here – including Bill
gram-flour balls), pistas (pistachio sweets), some top-notch South Indian vegetarian the tinted windows. Gates and Mick Jagger – making reservations
barfis (fudgelike condensed-milk sweets) and standards, including a delicious Rawa Idli The Spice Route (Map p100; The Imperial Hotel, Janpath; pretty much essential; they are taken between
kajus (cashew sweets) galore. made with cashews, tomato and carrot (Rs %23341234; mains Rs 500-1200; h12.30-3pm, 7-11.45pm; 7pm and 8pm daily.
50), there are some more-obscure options a) For a ritzy night out, this beautifully Dum Pukht (Off Map pp102-3; %26112233; Maurya
Paharganj Area such as the Mysore dry fruit masala dosa. decorated restaurant in the glorious Imperial Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Sadar Patel Marg; mains Rs 680-
Sonu Restaurant (Map p110; mains Rs 25-100; h12-9pm) For a filling lunch, go for the Special Limited Hotel is hard to beat. The food roams through 1000; h7.30-11.45pm daily, 12.30-2.45pm Sat & Sun; a)
Cooks up plenty of South Indian dosa (lentil- Thali (Rs 95). South India, Thailand, Burma and beyond, Another highly acclaimed Sheraton offering.
flour pancake) fare, including bizarre egg and Kwality Restaurant (Map p100; 7 Regal Bldg, Sansad and dishes range from delicious to perfection The delectable dishes here are cooked in a dum
cheese versions – there’s even a chocolate ba- Marg; mains Rs 85-180; hnoon-11pm; a) Feeding itself. Reservations are recommended. style, a sort of slow-cooked stew with a pastry
nana dosa (Rs 40) – as well as passable Chinese, Delhi for 65 years, Kwality may have rather lid. Reservations (taken any time) are advised.
Indian and Continental dishes. tightly packed tables, but this venerable res- QUICK EATS
Everest Bakery Café (Map p110; mains Rs 30-90; taurant’s food (especially the Indian dishes) Wenger’s (Map p100; A-Block; h10.30am-8pm) The LODI COLONY
h7am-11pm) Opposite the Hotel Star Paradise, lives up to its name. Try the shahi paneer (un- legendary Wenger’s bakes cakes (from Rs 27 All American Diner (Map pp102-3; India Habitat Centre,
this teeny café boasts particularly enticing teas, fermented cheese in a creamy tomato sauce, per slice), savouries (coleslaw/chicken-tikka Lodi Rd; mains Rs 150-250; h7am-11pm; a) Decked
nice with a big wedge of chocolate cake. Rs 110). sandwiches Rs 28/40) and bread (cheese and out in true diner style right down to the tunes,
Diamond Restaurant (Map p110; mains Rs 40-100; Embassy (Map p100; 11 D-Block; mains Rs 90-200; jalapeno loaf Rs 25). Old-fashioned foil- this place serves US classics from buttermilk
h7.30am-11.30pm) The diminutive Diamond h10am-11.30pm; a) Dimly lit and one of the wrapped chocolates – perfect for your great- pancakes and peanut-butter malts to hot dogs
shines when it comes to pasta, but its oldest establishments in the area, Embassy great-aunt’s birthday – are Rs 600 per kilo. It’s and onion rings.
Chinese, Continental and Israeli dishes can attracts a clientele of notable oldies, including almost always packed, largely because of its Lodi, The Garden Restaurant (Map pp102-3; Lodi Rd;
yield wobbly results. Breakfasts (Rs 50 to Rs Delhi-based journalists and retired politicians. convoluted system of buying produce through mains Rs 200-400; h11am-11.30pm; a) Its cuisine
70) are reliable, as is the good music and the It serves up a scrummy palak paneer (unfer- a series of tickets, cashiers and counters. gets varied reports, but this pleasant eatery,
friendly vibe. mented cheese in spinach sauce) but is best Nizam’s Kathi Kabab (Map p100; H5/6 Plaza Bldg- with a garden setting, is a handy sustenance
Sam’s Café (Map p110; Vivek Hotel, 1534-1550 Main known for its chicken supreme, apparently a Block; h11am-11pm) Legendary takeaway kebabs: stop after a power-walking session at nearby
Bazaar; mains Rs 60-110; h8am-11pm) A depend- favourite with its older clients. try the mutton kebab in paratha (Indian flat Lodi Garden. One hit is the mezze platter,
able place to sip a masala chai (mixed tea) or Zen (Map p100; 25 B-Block; mains Rs 100-450; bread) with egg (Rs 65 to Rs 85); vegetarians piled high with tabbouleh, hummus and
strawberry lassi before diving into the filling h10.30am-midnight; a) Reasonable renditions will melt at the paneer tikka (spiced, mari- aubergine salad.
plates of schnitzels, momos, falafel, thalis or of Chinese food. For lunch there’s a decent, nated, chargrilled unfermented cheese) roll
roast chicken. though not overly generous, set meal (veg (Rs 80). PANDARA MARKET
Metropolis Restaurant & Bar (Map p110; Metropolis /nonveg Rs 299/339). Dim sums go for Rs 109 Gulati (Map pp102-3; mains Rs 100-300; hnoon-12am;
Tourist Home, 1628 Main Bazaar; mains Rs 85-250; h8am- to Rs 139 per portion. New Delhi & Around a) Incredibly popular with locals, this place
11pm) A relaxing rooftop restaurant with de- Parikrama (Map p100; %66303394; 22 Kasturba DIPLOMATIC ENCLAVE & CHANAKYAPURI does great Punjabi dishes, its two top hits
cent lasagne, sweet-and-spicy salmon fillets, Gandhi Marg; mains Rs 140-400; h12.30-11pm; a) A AREA being butter and khadhai (a tomato-and-
spaghetti Bolognese, chicken wrapped in revolving restaurant on the 24th floor where Fujiya (Map pp102-3; 12/48 Malcha Marg Market; mains Rs chilli-infused masala) chicken. Rumour has
bacon, and plenty more. you can enjoy Indian or Chinese food while 85-210; hnoon-midnight; a) Small and friendly it, too, that you might bump into a couple of
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Bollywood legends, who arrive here regularly Park Baluchi (Map pp92-3; %26859369; Hauz Khas itself is not necessarily spectacular, it’s worth superfudge flavour (Rs 50 per scoop) in a
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for a quick food fix. Village; mains Rs 220-530; hnoon-11pm; a) Set within sampling if you’re in the area, especially if cute, vintage movie-poster filled interior,
Ichiban (Map pp102-3; mains Rs 100-300; h12.30- the restful grounds of the deer park itself, you’re keen to discuss George Harrison with along with a broad selection of veggie pasta
3.30pm & 7.30pm-1.30am; a) If you’re all cur- this is a smart place drawing in a largely local an orange-robed devotee after dinner. and grill dishes.
ried-out, Ichiban specialises in Chinese and crowd for its upmarket Indian cuisine. A Shalom (Map pp92-3; %41632280; N Block Market, Café Turtle (Map pp102-3; 2nd fl, Full Circle Bookstore,
Japanese food, with perfectly reasonable ver- favourite with wedding parties, it makes a nice Greater Kailash Part I; mains Rs 400-700; h12.30-3.30pm & Khan Market; mains Rs 75-250; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat;
sions of all your eastern favourites. Try the place for a drink or a tandoori-chicken meal 7.30-12pm) Essentially a lounge bar with food, a) Perfect for a languid cinnamon tea and
yummy stir-fried vegetables in almond sauce, on a summer evening, after a calming stroll this is a grand place to dine if you need a a wedge of orange poppy-seed cake. Savoury
salt-and-pepper chicken, and for dessert, through the park. complete break – both culinary and visual – eats include quiche, salads and sandwiches.
crispy noodles in honey sauce (Rs 80). La Piazza (Map pp92-3; %26791234, ext 1310; from the chaos of Delhi. Step inside and
Pindi Restaurant (Map pp102-3; mains Rs 100-300; Hyatt Regency, Bhikaiji Cama Pl, Ring Rd; mains Rs 310-780; you’ll enter the Mediterranean, with a mostly Bars & Nightclubs
hnoon-1am; a) In an area with many dhaba hnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm; a) Long acclaimed for Lebanese menu inspired by hints of Morocco In recent years, Delhi’s bars have graduated
(snack bar) Punjabi restaurants, this is prob- its Italian food, this is an upmarket choice if and Spain. Vegetarians won’t be disappointed from places for travellers to drown the sor-
ably the most famous, starting life as a sim- you’re simply craving a perfect wood-fired with the extensive menu, one of the highlights rows of a miserable hotel room to places to
ple, neon-lit affair and nowadays rather more pizza, ravioli with ricotta and pomodoro (tom- being the Spanish corn crepes. see and be seen by hip urban Delhiites. Many
sophisticated, with prices to match. Still, it’s ato), or have the taste for truffles. of the best bars morph into nightclubs later
a good stop-off point for a large and deli- AIRPORT AREA in the evening, with top international DJs and
cious lunch, with particularly gratifying butter DEFENCE COLONY & SOUTH EXTENSION NYC (Map pp92-3; %26779191; Radisson Hotel, National prices to match those of more conventional
chicken (Rs 200) and mattar paneer (peas and AREA Hwy 8; mains Rs 265-425; h24hr; a) A glam but clubbing capitals. The Haze Bar (%41669008;
cheese in gravy, Rs 160). Dilli Haat (Map pp92-3; Aurobindo Marg; www.dillihaat pricey coffee shop with an overwhelmingly 8 Basant Lok; 3pm-midnight) is a good place for a
.org; admission Rs 15; h10.30am-10pm Oct-Mar, to 9.30pm stars-‘n’-stripes theme. It’s worth stopping in spot of live rock or blues; there’s a Rs 500 bar
KHAN MARKET Apr-Sep) Although this open-air market is rather if you’re killing time in the airport area, and minimum per person on days when a live
Mrs Kaur’s Premium Cookies (Map pp102-3; Khan Market; contrived and more than a little touristy, it the food, though unspectacular, is a reason- band is performing.
h9.30am-10pm) These scrummy, squidgy takea- does offer the opportunity to sample regional able mix of sandwiches, soups and kebabs.
way cookies range from Rs 30 for a super- Indian cuisine, even Manipuri veg thalis (Rs PAHARGANJ
choc chunk to Rs 600 for a giant birthday 60) and treats from the northeastern state DRINKING These licensed establishments serve drinks
cookie. They also deliver, if you get caught of Assam. Delhi’s bar scene, these days, is amazingly until around 11pm. Unlicensed eateries may
with a craving. Flavours (Map pp92-3; %24645644; 51-54C Moolchand extensive, with new, hot places opening all also serve beer in a teacup if you’re discreet
Chona’s (Map pp102-3; Khan Market; mains Rs 90-320; Flyover Market, Ring Rd; mains Rs 150-310; hnoon-11pm; the time. There are three main coffee chains – about it.
h11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; a) Linger with the a) Known by many – including its Italian Barista, Coffee Day and Costa Coffee – Metropolis Restaurant & Bar (Map p110; Metropolis
locals at this simple institution over Indian, owner – as ‘the most authentic Italian eat- which have taken Delhi with a vigour of Tourist Home, 1634 Main Bazaar) This hotel’s rooftop
Chinese and Continental dishes, including ery in Delhi’. Chef/owner Tarsillo Nataloni which Starbucks would be proud. All offer restaurant is a little pricey, but a good place
their speciality veg or nonveg ‘sizzlers’ (Rs ensures you eat the real thing, whether it’s cool respite from a hot Delhi day – or a for a cocktail sundowner (from Rs 90).
190 to Rs 210). Some dishes work better than bruschetta, risotto or, of course, pasta. Eat in welcome warm-up on a freezing Delhi Hotel Gold Regency (Map p110; 4350 Main Bazaar)
others but it’s a good place to hang out with a the attractive restaurant or out in the garden, winter morning. Sells cheap beer (a bottle of Kingfisher is Rs
‘chilli potato’ or chicken-wing starter, watch- but beware that the service can sometimes be 80, including tax) at its bar and has live Indian
ing the Khan Market world go by. a little patchy. Cafés music nightly except Tuesday.
The Kitchen (Map pp102-3; Khan Market; mains Rs 150- Swagath (Map pp92-3; 14 Defence Colony Market; Barista (Map p100; 16 N-Block, Connaught Pl; snacks Rs 32-
350; h11am-11pm; a) Friendly, cute and with % 24330930; mains Rs 180-600; h 11am-11.30pm) 60; h9am-1am; a) Hip and happening, Barista CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA
an extensive menu, this is a great lunch spot, Swagath serves up popular Indian and serves comfort food, from smoked-chicken Agni (Map p100; %2374 3000; Park Hotel, Parliament St;
with a daily happy hour between 4pm and Chinese choices, the winner being seafood. sandwiches to chocolate-chip muffins and a cover charge per couple Rs 2000 on Fri & Sat; h5pm-2am;
7pm. Tuck into Irish stew (Rs 275), mixed- Its most popular dishes include green masala monstrous iced café mocha latte (Rs 72). a) A stylish lounge pad with a mixture of
bean chilli (Rs 225) or attempt the ‘compli- pomfret and ladyfish fry. Costa Coffee (Map p100; L-8 Connaught Pl; h9am- locals and travellers packing it out every night
cated noodle salad’ (Rs 180). Top this all off 1am; a) Though this central Connaught Place of the week, this hotel bar hosts dancing late
with a blueberry cheesecake or mocha fudge GREATER KAILASH & EAST OF KAILASH branch is one of the most popular and cos- into the night, with a 35ft-long bar holding
ice cream, and don’t miss the framed poster Govinda’s Sweets (Map pp92-3; ladoo per kg Rs 140; seting, no doubt you’ll spot other branches every conceivable liquor your heart might
of George Bushisms in the toilet. h9am-1pm & 2-9pm) Next door to Govinda’s. Sells popping up all over town. Great for a cup of desire. The Park also hosts exclusive poolside
delicious takeaway mithai (Indian sweets). something hot and steamy (try a large tiramisu club Aqua, which bangs out techno music, then
HAUZ KHAS AREA Govinda’s (Map pp92-3; Hare Krishna Iskcon temple latte for Rs 79), a piece of blueberry mousse takes it down a notch with R&B, until around
Naivedyam (Map pp92-3; % 26960426; Hauz Khas complex, East of Kailash; buffet Rs 225; hbreakfast 8-11am, cake (Rs 49) or a cheese-and-mushroom 1am. Bouncers here are selective, so dress for
Village; dosas Rs 50-75, thalis Rs 90; h11am-11pm; a) lunch 12.30-3.30pm, afternoon snack 4-6.30pm, dinner 7- panini (Rs 69). the occasion and be prepared for steep prices:
A delightful, snug, South Indian restaurant 10pm; a) Promising a ‘transcendental dining Big Chill (Map pp102-3; 68A Khan Market; mains Rs Rs 225 for a pint of local beer; Rs 415 and
decorated temple-style, with a small but great- experience’, Govinda’s pure-veg (no onion 90-190; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; a) Serves out- above for cocktails.
value menu and happy atmosphere. The thalis or garlic) Indian buffet is a good way to fill rageously divine smoothies (Rs 70) and DV8 (Map p100; %41500694; 13 Regal Bldg; hnoon-
come especially recommended. up in serene surroundings. Though the food homemade ice cream, including a chocolate midnight; a) A place that is embraced by young
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professionals after a hard day at the office, this Oxygen (Map pp92-3; D-Block Market, Poorvi Marg,
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is a great destination if you’ve got a cocktail Vasant Vihar; h11am-11.30pm; a) Though really OLD DELHI’S BUZZING BAZAARS
craving, with unusual beer-based cocktails on more restaurant than bar (and serving up Getting lost in the old city’s colourful, convoluted bazaars (Map p97) is half the fun of shopping
offer: try the ‘American Rumble’ (Rs 200) for a tasty vegetarian kebab), you can roll into here; try, though, to arrive at around 11.30am, when most shops have opened but the jostling
a pick-me-up, whilst listening to the largely Oxygen for a late-night cognac (Hennessy is at its most bearable.
rock line-up. Check whether there’s a live Rs 200) or choose from its massive selection For silver jewellery (and some gold) head for Dariba Kalan (Map p97), near the Sisganj Gurdwara.
band playing while you’re in town. of imported wines and spirits, to a mostly Nearby Kinari Bazaar has a focus on bridal gear, from fancy sari borders to iridescent tinsel deco-
1911 (Map p100; Imperial hotel, Janpath; hnoon-1am; Bollywood soundtrack. rations. The Cloth Market (Map p97) sells uncut material, as well as bed linen and towels, while
a) For a true feel of colonial grandeur, im- electrical gadgets are the speciality of Lajpat Rai Market (Map p97). Chowri Bazaar (Map p97) is
bibe in the company of oil-painted Maharajas, ENTERTAINMENT the wholesale paper and greeting-card market. Nearby, Nai Sarak (Map p97) deals in wholesale
or lie back on bamboo deckchairs on the Cultural Programmes stationery and books and also has a portion devoted to saris.
perfect-green lawn. Named after the year in See Media (p91) for publications to pick up Near the Fatehpuri Masjid, on Khari Baoli, is the aromatic Spice Market (Map p97), ablaze with
which Delhi was proclaimed British India’s for to-the-minute listings of Delhi’s dynamic fiery-red chilli powders and burnt-orange turmeric, as well as pickles, tea and nuts.
capital, this grand bar claims to have over cultural scene. The venues listed below re-
500 beverages, as well as a simple bar-snacks liably have something of some description
menu if you’re feeling peckish. going on. haggling. Outside these, bargain hard and Markets & Complexes
Blues (Map p100; 18 N-Block; hnoon-midnight; a) Kamani Auditorium (Map pp102-3; %23388084; remember that some taxi and autorickshaw Many markets are closed once a week (in-
Dimly lit with a cool vibe and a nice rock- Mandi House, Copernicus Marg) drivers earn juicy profits (from you) via the dicated below), with most operating from
and-pop change from the proliferation of Sangeet Natak Akademi (Map pp102-3; commission racket – politely decline their roughly 10am to 7pm.
lounge and techno Delhi’s bar scene has on %23387246; Rabindra Bhavan, Copernicus Marg) shopping suggestions.
offer, Blues makes a relaxed place for a mug Shri Ram Centre (Map pp102-3; %23714307; 4 Safdar Top-end hotels have glitzy shopping ar- OLD DELHI & AROUND
of draught beer (Rs 180) and a big plate of Hashmi Rd) cades whose prices run to the stellar: for fun, Chandni Chowk (Map p97) is Old Delhi’s famous
baked nachos (Rs 130). There’s live music on Triveni Kala Sangam (Map pp102-3; %23718833; check out the Valentino store at the Shangri-la shopping street, and wending your way
Thursday and Saturday nights, and a generous 205 Tansen Marg) Hotel (%4119191919; www.shangri-la.com; Ashoka Rd), through its offshoot jumble of chaotic bazaars
happy hour between 4pm and 8pm. or the Louis Vuitton at the Oberoi (p113), is a head-spinning assault on the senses – see
Spirit (Map p100; 34 E-Block; hnoon-midnight; a) Cinemas from which you can order a cigar humidor above for more information.
A cosmopolitan lounge-bar-restaurant with Most Delhi cinemas screen a fully Bollywood that will set you back a smart Rs 3,600,000. Daryaganj Sunday Book Market (Map p97;
a particularly pleasing wine list (Californian fare, rarely with English subtitles. There are At the other end of the spectrum you’ll find h10am-5pm Sun) A bookworm’s delight, this
and Australian bottles for around Rs 1700); by several cinemas around Connaught Place in- indefatigable street hawkers on Chandni market north of Delhi Gate is a great place
the glass it’s Rs 300/200 for foreign/domestic cluding the Odeon (Map p100; %41517899) and Chowk flogging everything from squeaky to spend a Sunday afternoon browsing and
wine. There’s a good menu specialising in the 1932-built Regal (Map p100; %23362245). toys to fake beards for less than the price of picking up out-of-print or hard-to-find titles
Lebanese and Italian cuisine, and the barman There’s also the enticingly ramshackle Imperial a cup of chai. for peanuts.
knocks up a mean Long Island Iced Tea. Cinema (Map p110; %55396702; Rajguru Rd, Paharganj) in Karol Bagh Market (Map pp92-3; h Tue-Sun)
Paharganj. Drop into the box office to check Government & State Emporiums Popular for its competitively priced cloth-
NEW DELHI & AROUND out screening times; tickets run to between Although the prices at these fixed-price ing, shoes, homeware and general consumer
Lizard Lounge (Map pp92-3; %32948208; 1st fl, E5 South Rs 30 and Rs 80. emporiums can be marginally higher than goods. Spice things up here at Roopak’s (Map
Extension Part II; hnoon- midnight; a) A world away You might be able to catch an international elsewhere, you’re assured of quality and pp92-3; 6/9 Ajmal Khan Rd; h10am-8pm), two shops
from the rat race, this funky yet suave lounge flick at one of the comfy, suburban cineplexes don’t have to haggle. If time permits, scout side by side that sell a similarly priced range
is a desirable place to unwind over a cock- listed below: screening times are in newspapers emporiums to get an idea of prices before of excellent, well-packed spices, most around
tail or, if the mood is right, bubbly (Dom and PVR cinema details are online at exploring the markets – you can always return Rs 100 per 100g.
Perignon is a cool Rs 12,000). The volume is www.pvrcinemas.com. later if you didn’t find comparable products
turned up after 11pm and there are a dozen PVR Anupam 4 (Map pp92-3; %51000458; Saket at better prices in the bazaars. CONNAUGHT PLACE & AROUND
flavours of hookah to choose from, including Community Centre, Saket) Central Cottage Industries Emporium (Map p100; Janpath (Tibetan) Market (Map p100; h10am-7.30pm)
a curious cappuccino variety. PVR Plaza Cinema (Map p100; %27944194; H-Block %23326790; Janpath; h10am-7pm) A multilevel This isn’t really a market at all, but a series of
Delhi’s Devils (Map pp92-3; 3rd fl, E3 South Extension Connaught Pl) treasure-trove filled with India-wide handi- permanent stalls running along Janpath to
Part II; cover charge weekdays Rs 300, weekends Rs 500; PVR Priya Cinema (Map pp92-3; %9810708625; 61 crafts, including woodcarvings, silverware, catch the moneyed tourists coming out from
hnoon-midnight; a) This cavernous bar is a Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar) jewellery, pottery, papier-mâché, brassware, the Imperial Hotel towards Connaught Place.
good place to wind down, with lounge music Satyam Cineplex (Map pp92-3; %25893322; Patel Rd, beauty products, textiles and plenty more. Because of this, prices are inflated and you’ll
on Mondays and Tuesdays, salsa nights on Patel Nagar) State Emporiums (Map p100; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; have to haggle hard, but for those on a short
Thursdays, and hip-hop on Fridays. h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) This string of side-by-side trip, it’s still a good place to pick up trinkets.
Geoffrey’s (Map pp92-3; Ansal Plaza, Khel Gaon Marg; SHOPPING state government emporiums showcases auth- For quality handmade paperware here, visit
h12.30-11pm; a) If you’re in the area, English- Delhi has a magnificent mix of markets, from entic products from around the nation. Set Handpaper World (Map p100; 12B Janpath Market).
themed Geoffrey’s pub is recommended for seething local bazaars to designer shopping aside several hours to do these fantastic shops Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan (Map p100; Regal Bldg,
a mojito or two, accompanied by asparagus enclaves, as well as fixed-price emporiums justice, and bear in mind that some close for Sansad Marg; h10am-7.45pm) Best known for its
spears wrapped in smoked salmon (Rs 290). where you can finally take a break from lunch between 1.30pm and 2.30pm. khadi (homespun cloth), but also ventures
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beyond textiles, with items such as hand- and furniture shops geared to society’s Vedi Tailors (Map p100; %23416901; 60 M-Block, Con- airfield (Map pp102-3; %24631337; Aurobindo Marg;
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DELHI
made paper and delicately scented glycerine upper crust. naught Pl; h11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) Men’s-only tailor. h7am-11pm). For Indian Airlines’ flight arrival
soaps. Watch out for the strange multicounter C Lal & Sons (Map pp102-3; 9/172 Jor Bagh Market; Charges Rs 300/2400 for trousers/suits. and departure times, dial %1407.
purchasing system. h9.30am-7.30pm) Run by the lovely Mr Lal, Other major domestic airlines (it’s usu-
Main Bazaar (Map p110; h10am-8pm) abounds this humble little ‘curiosity shop’ at Jor Bagh GETTING THERE & AWAY ally quickest and cheapest to book tickets
with cheap T-shirts, shawls, costume jewellery, Market (Map pp102–3) is especially popu- Delhi is a major international gateway to online):
essential oil, incense and bindis. Although of- lar with expats for its charming handmade India. It’s also a centre for domestic travel, Air Deccan (%9818177008; www.air deccan.net)
ficially closed on Monday, many shops remain Christmas-tree decorations. The handicrafts with extensive bus, rail and air connec- Jet Airways (%39893333; www.jetairways.com)
open, especially during the tourist season. (cheaper than those at tourist markets) in- tions. Note that Delhi is prone to fog during Kingfisher (%toll-free 18001800101; www.flyking
Palika Bazaar (Map p100; h11am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) clude papier-mâché, blue pottery, candles, the chilly winter months of December and fisher.com)
This is a claustrophobic and frequently seedy silk scarves and pretty glass beads. January, which frequently disrupts airline Spicejet (%toll-free 18001803333; www.spicejet.com)
bustling underground bazaar with competi- Khan Market (Map pp102-3; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) schedules. For more details of arriving from
tively priced consumer goods (especially Rather a collection of shops and cafés than overseas see p373. INTERNATIONAL
clothing) and Indian music CDs aimed at an actual market, this place is popular with The international airport’s arrivals hall has
local clientele. Tourists are invariably quoted expat diplomats and well-heeled locals for its Air 24-hour money-exchange facilities, a prepaid
higher prices, so don’t be shy to bargain. boutiques and rash of skincare clinics. After The domestic terminals (Terminal 1) of the taxi counter and a tourist information coun-
People Tree (Map p100; Regal Bldg, Sansad Marg; splurging on books, CDs, clothes and organic Indira Gandhi International Airport (Map ter. The railway booking counter is open
h10.30am-7pm) The small and well-concealed toiletries, drop your remaining change into the pp92–3) are around 15km south-west of from 8am to 8pm.
People Tree sells avant-garde T-shirts, many permanent tin collection-box for stray cats, Connaught Place, and the international ter-
with socio-political messages, as well as books, courtesy of the Windsor Pet Shop. minal (Terminal 2) is a further 6km away. Airline Offices
bags, clothes and costume jewellery. Lajpat Nagar Central Market (Map pp92-3; haround There’s a free shuttle bus between the two Most airline offices listed below operate
Rangarsons Music Depot (Map p100; %23413831; 12 11am-9pm Tue-Sun) This market attracts bargain terminals, or you can use the Ex-Servicemen’s between around 10am and 5pm, Tuesday
K-Block, Connaught Pl; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) prides hunters on the prowl for household goods, Air Link Transport Service (see p123). Allow to Sunday.
itself as being ‘leading suppliers to the armed clothing and jewellery. If you’ve fallen in love 30 to 45 minutes to get to the domestic airport Aeroflot (Map p100; %55302334; Tolstoy House, 15-17
forces’. Items include brass-band instruments with the colourful jangly bangles widely worn during the middle of the day, and 45 minutes Tolstoy Marg)
(trumpets Rs 2500), tablas (from Rs 1600) and by Indian women, you can find them here for to an hour to reach the international airport. Air Canada (Map pp92-3; %41528181; 5th fl, World
sitars (from Rs 2500). around Rs 50 per two dozen. If you’re heading there at rush-hour, it’s wise Trade Tower, Barakhamba Rd)
Rikhi Ram (Map p100; %23327685; Marina Arcade, South Extension Market Parts I & II (Map pp92-3; to double this, just to be sure. Air France (Map p100; %23466262; 7 Atma Ram Man-
8 G-Block, Connaught Pl; h11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) is pat- h11am-8pm Tue-Sun) sells high-class good in two At both domestic and international termi- sion, Connaught Pl)
ronised by some of India’s most esteemed enclaves, one on either side of the road. Music nals, you must have your check-in baggage X- Air India (Map p100; %23731225; 2nd fl, Jeevan
musicians. Sitars start at Rs 22,000 and tablas store Planet M (Map pp92-3; %26251620; h11am- rayed and sealed before you check in – don’t Bharati Bldg, Connaught Pl)
are upwards of Rs 4500. 8.30pm Tue-Sun) here has two well-arranged floors forget to do this or you’ll be sent back. At British Airways (%951244120747; DLF Plaza Tower,
Soma (Map p100; 1st fl, 44 K-Block; h10am-7pm) of English and Indian music. the check-in counter, ensure you collect tags DLF Phase 1, Gurgaon)
Soma has beautiful block-printed textiles from Sunder Nagar Market (Map pp102-3; h10.30am- to attach to your hand luggage (mandatory El Al Israel Airlines (Map p100; %23357965; rm 303,
oven mitts and aprons, to children’s clothing, 7.30pm Mon-Sat) Just south of Purana Qila, to clear security later). For flight enquiries, Prakash Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Marg)
cosmetic bags and scarves. this genteel collection of shops specialises call the international airport (%25652011) or the Emirates (Map p100; %66314444; 7th fl, DLF Centre,
in Indian and Nepali handicrafts and ‘an- domestic airport (%25675126). Sansad Marg, Connaught Pl)
NEW DELHI & AROUND tiques’ (most are replicas). There are also Gulf Air (Map p100; %23324293; 12 G-Block, Con-
Dilli Haat (Map pp92-3; Aurobindo Marg; admission Rs 10; two outstanding teashops: Regalia Tea House DOMESTIC naught Pl)
h10.30am-10pm) sell reasonable regional handi- (Map pp102-3; h10am-7.30pm) and Mittal Tea House Arrivals & Departures Japan Airlines (Map p100; %23324922; Chandralok
crafts, such as shawls and woven baskets, but (Map pp102-3; h10am-7.30pm), both offering simi- Check-in for domestic flights is one hour Bldg, 36 Janpath)
nothing you couldn’t get in a government lar products (including wonderful loose teas before departure. Note that if you’ve just KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines (Map p100; %23357747;
emporium. The food on offer is good, though, and prepacked spices) and complimentary arrived and have an onward connection Prakash Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Marg)
and the admission fee means a welcome break tea tastings. within India, it may be with Air India, the Lufthansa Airlines (Map p100; %23724200; 56
from hawkers. country’s international carrier, rather than Janpath)
Greater Kailash M-Block & N-Block Market (Map Tailors its domestic carrier, Indian Airlines. If this Malaysian Airlines (Map p100; %41512121; Gopal
pp92-3; Greater Kailash 1; hWed-Mon) An upmarket Tailors adeptly replicate ready-made garments is the case, you must check in at the in- Das Bhavan, 28 Bharakamba Rd)
shopping enclave best known for its gar- so bring your favourite party frock. Ultracheap ternational terminal (Terminal 2), not the Pakistan International Airlines (PIA; Map p100;
ment, fabric and furnishings store Fabindia tailors can be shoddy – seek recommenda- domestic terminal. %23737791; 23 Barakhamba Rd)
(Map pp92-3; N-Block Market; h10am-7.30pm) whose tions or try the following (reputable) outlets. Qantas Airways (Map p100; %23321345; Prakash
dhurries (cotton rugs) range from Rs 150 to Always confirm whether quotes include fab- Airlines Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Marg)
Rs 15,000. ric; the following prices exclude material. The most convenient Indian Airlines office (Map Royal Nepal Airlines Corporation (RNAC; Map p100;
Hauz Khas Village (Map pp92-3; h Mon-Sat) New Prominent Tailors (Map p100; %23418007; 25 p100; %23313317; F-Block, Malhotra Bldg, Connaught Pl; %23321164; 44 Janpath)
Another high-end shopping district, this K-Block, Connaught Pl; h11am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) A skirt h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) is at Connaught Scandinavian Airlines (SAS; Map p100; %43513202;
one abounding with art galleries, boutiques (without lining) is Rs 150, men’s trousers are Rs 300. Place. There’s also a ticket office at Safdarjang Thapar House, 124 Janpath)
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Singapore Airlines (Map p100; %23356283; 9th fl, at the International Tourist Bureau (see Ticket
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Ashoka Estate Bldg, Barakhamba Rd) Bookings below). It offers complete listings MAJOR TRAINS FROM DELHI
Thai Airways International (THAI; Map pp92-3; updated every month, including prices per Destination Train No & name Fare (Rs) Duration Departures
%41497777; Park Royal Intercontinental Hotel, America class and km, of all India’s trains. (hr) & station
Plaza, Nehru Pl) Agra 2280 Taj Exp 91/199 (A) 2¾ 7.15am HN
TICKET BOOKINGS 2002 Shatabdi Exp 292/584 (B) 2 6.15am ND
Bus Foreign travellers should head directly to the Ajmer 2916 Ashram Exp 545/675/1194 (C) 8 3.05pm OD
Delhi’s main bus station is the Inter State Bus International Tourist Bureau (Map p110; %23405156; Jaipur 2916 Ashram Exp 416/515/910 (C) 5½ 3.05pm OD
Terminal (ISBT; Map pp92-3; %23868836; Kashmiri Gate; 1st fl, New Delhi train station; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm 2958 Rajdhani Exp 473/656/1145 (C) 4½ 8pm ND
h24hr), north of the (Old) Delhi train station, Sun). Do not believe anyone who tells you it has Jaisalmer 4059 Barmer Exp 284/798/1153 (D) 20 5.45pm OD
about 20 minutes autorickshaw ride north of shifted, closed or burnt down – this is a scam (1AC not available)
Connaught Place. It has a 24-hour left-luggage to divert you elsewhere (see p95). Jodhpur 2461 Mandore Exp 605/874/1546(C) 11 8.50pm OD
facility (Rs 10 per bag). ‘Chaotic’ can be an In this large, air-conditioned upstairs of- Udaipur 2963 Mewar Exp 555/801/1417 (C) 12 7pm HN
understatement here, so try to arrive at least fice you’ll find generally helpful staff, whose Train stations: ND – New Delhi, OD – Old Delhi, HN – Hazrat Nizamuddin
30 minutes ahead of your departure time. motto, advertised on the wall, is ‘Service with Fares: A 2nd class/chair car, B chair car/executive class, C 3AC/2AC/1AC, D sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC
Rajasthan Roadways (%24864470; counter 36) and a Smile’, though this may be stretching it.
Uttar Pradesh Roadways (%23868709; counter 38) sells You’ll need to fill out a reservation card be-
onward tickets to Rajasthan and Agra at the fore heading to a counter, where tickets can To/From the Airport There is also a Delhi Transport Corporation
bus station itself. You can also purchase tick- be paid for in rupees, pounds sterling, US Airport-to-city transport is not as straight- (DTC) service (its counter is also in the arriv-
ets to Rajasthan at Bikaner House (Map pp102-3; dollars, euros, or travellers cheques, but not forward as it should be, due to predatory taxi als hall), which operates frequent buses (Rs
%23383469), located near India Gate, where by credit card. Take your passport along, and and autorickshaw drivers who often target 50) into town, terminating at the ISBT (oppo-
RTDC buses to and from Jaipur, Jodhpur, try to book onward tickets as early as possible first-time visitors – see p95. site) in Old Delhi. Since most travellers plump
Ajmer and Udaipur arrive and depart. Services before you intend to travel, since berths – Many international flights arrive in the wee to stay in Paharganj or near Connaught Place,
are seasonal, and vary wildly in price, time and especially first class and sleeper varieties – hours, making it wise to book your hotel in this service is generally much less useful than
comfort, so it’s best to enquire here or at the fill up fast. There are also counters here advance, notify it of your arrival time and, if the EATS option.
bus station for up-to-the-minute options. for buying, and making reservations with, possible, save yourself a lot of hassle by pre-
Indrail passes. arranging a pick-up. TAXI
Train In the international terminal, there are several
STATIONS GETTING AROUND PREARRANGED PICK-UPS prepaid taxi booths in the arrivals hall area
There are two principal stations in Delhi – City buses can be hopelessly crowded, and Arranging an airport pick-up through a hotel directly after customs; there’s also a prepaid
(Old) Delhi train station (Map pp92–3) 2km unless you’re travelling with a local, it’s almost will inevitably be more expensive than tak- stand in the domestic terminal arrivals hall.
north of Connaught Place in Old Delhi, impossible to find the right one to serve your ing a ‘prepaid taxi’ from one of the prepaid It costs about Rs 250 to the city centre and
and New Delhi train station (Map p110) at destination. Autorickshaws and taxis are in booths at the airport. It’s worth the peace of there’s a 25% surcharge between 11pm and
Paharganj, a 15-minute walk from Connaught plentiful supply, but rates vary wildly, since mind though, especially if you’re a first-time 5am. If you’re arriving at night or on your
Place. It’s another of Delhi’s eccentricities that it’s frequently impossible to find one willing visitor to the city or your flight arrives in the own, however, you may prefer to prearrange
though the Old Delhi station is also known as to turn on its official meter. middle of the night, since you know you’ll a pick-up from your hotel, since it’s been
the ‘main station’, most trains actually depart In certain parts of the city, cycle-rickshaws end up at the right hotel and for a prear- known even for prepaid taxi drivers to at-
from the New Delhi train station. Do make provide a swift way of cutting through Delhi ranged price. There’s nothing more com- tempt to take you to a different hotel in order
sure you double-check which station serves traffic: this is most applicable on the short run forting after a long-haul flight than seeing to get a commission.
your destination. If you’re departing from from New Delhi train station to Connaught someone holding a placard with your name If you order a prepaid service, you’ll be
the (Old) Delhi train station you should allow Place, and along the congested Chandni on it. given a voucher at the booth with your des-
adequate time to tackle the slow-moving traf- Chowk in Old Delhi. tination on it. Never surrender your voucher
fic of Old Delhi. Aside from walking, however, the very best BUS until you actually get to your destination;
There’s also the Nizamuddin train station way of getting around Delhi is by making The Ex-Servicemen’s Air Link Transport Service (EATS; it’s a nice insurance that you’ll actually get
(Map pp102–3), 5km southeast of Connaught use of its excellent metro system. Enter this Map p100; %23316530; F-Block, Connaught Pl; h10am- to where you’ve paid to go, since without
Place, where some southbound and Agra con- serene, surreal underground world (keep an 10.30pm) has a bus service between the airport that docket your driver won’t get paid. To
nections departe or terminate. Some trains eye out for amazed locals struggling, Borat- (both terminals) and its office in Connaught lodge complaints contact the traffic police
between Delhi and Jaipur, Jodhpur and like, with the escalators) and you’ll be whisked Place. The fare is Rs 50, plus Rs 10 per large (%23378888; h24hr).
Udaipur also operate out of the Sarai Rohilla about town quickly and sanely. New lines piece of luggage, and tickets can be purchased
train station (Map pp92–3), which is about are still in the making, but for now the exist- from its counter in the arrivals hall. The bus Bus
4km northwest of Connaught Place. ing lines serve a good few of the main sights. will also drop you off at most major hotels en The Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC;
An essential (and oddly addictive) piece Commuter hours may get sweaty and busy, route, and at the Ajmeri Gate entrance to New Map p100) runs some buses, and others are
of reading matter for deciphering Delhi’s rail but never worse than what’s going on above- Delhi train station (for Paharganj). There is privately owned, but they all operate along
services is the invaluable Trains at a Glance ground, or, for that matter, on London’s no set timetable as the bus operates according the same set routes. Tickets cost a maximum
(Rs 50), available at newsstands, bookshops or Underground in August. to flight arrivals. of Rs 15 for travel within the city precincts.
124 DELHI METRO MAP lonelyplanet.com D E L H I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 125

SHAHDARA
Whenever possible, try to board at a starting development, with work not expected to be

DELHI
or finishing point, such as the Shivaji Stadium finished until 2021. There are currently three
terminal (Map p100; Connaught Pl), as there’s more lines in operation:

WELCOME
chance of a seat. Red Line (Line 1) Runs northeast to northwest, from

SEELAMPUR
Useful buses: Shahdara to Rithala.

INDRAPRASTHA
Buses 101, 104 & 139 Shivaji Stadium terminal to the Yellow Line (Line 2) Runs south to north, from just
Red Fort. south of the Central Secretariat to Vishwa Vidyalaya.

PARK DEPOT
Bus 505 Janpath (from opposite the Imperial hotel) to Blue Line (Line 3) Runs southeast to southwest, from

SHASTRI
SHASTRI

BARAKHAMBA ROAD
PARK
Qutb Minar. Indraprastha to Dwarka.

HOUSE PRAGATI
MAIDAN
Buses 604, 620, 632 & 641 Connaught Pl (on Sansad
Marg) to Chanakyapuri. Metros run daily every few minutes from 6am

RAJIV CHOWK

MANDI
KASHMERE to 10pm and are an excellent, cost-effective way
VIDHAN SABHA

CHANDNI
CHOWK
CIVIL LINES

Car

CHAWRI
GATE
to get around the city. Purchase your token

BAZAR
KHYBER PASS

DELHI

SECRETARIAT
NEW
HIRING A CAR & DRIVER from the booth (fares start at Rs 6) or avoid

CENTRAL
CHOWK
DEPOT

PATEL
HAZARI

Numerous operators offer chauffeur-driven queuing each time by purchasing an unlimited

PUL BANGASH

TIS

JHANDEWALAN cars – for important tips see p379. Hotels can travel card (one-day/three-day card Rs 70/200).
also often arrange cars but make absolutely Children under 90cm tall travel for free.
VISHWA
VIDYALAYA

R.K.
ASHRAM
MARG
sure there won’t be hidden ‘extra’ charges Unlike on the London Underground, there
PRATAP
NAGAR

before you depart. Three traveller-recom- is little indication, at each stop, what points of
RAJENDRA KAROL
BAGH

mended options are cars arranged by the interest you might be near, so consult a map to
KANHAIYA NAGAR

Vivek Hotel (p111), Hotel Namaskar (p110) find your nearest station. In general, the blue
INDER LOK

SHASTRI
NAGAR

and Yatri House (p111). line is of most use to travellers, for shuttling
KESHAV PURAM

PLACE

Kumar Tourist Taxi Service (Map p100; %2341 5930; between the sights of New and Old Delhi.
NETAJI SUBHASH PLACE

SHADIPUR

kumar.tt.free.fr; 14/1 K-Block, Connaught Pl; h8am-9pm) is

NAGAR

Motorcycle
PATEL

a tiny family-run outfit near the York Hotel

and offers chauffeur-driven tours in Delhi and To purchase or hire motorcycles (including
KOHAT ENCLAVE

beyond. A day-long Delhi tour will cost be- legendary Enfields), head for Karol Bagh
NAGAR

tween US$13 and $24 per car; a return daytrip (p119) – do shop around and seek advice from
KIRTI
PITAMPURA

from Delhi to Agra will be US$80–150 per car, fellow travellers in order to ensure you get the
RAMESH
ROHINI EAST

prices varying depending on the size and air- best deal. Inder Motors (Map pp92-3; %25728579;
NAGAR
NAGAR
MOTI

conditioning situation of the car. [email protected]; 1740-A/55 Basement, Hari Singh Nalwa
ROHINI WEST

St, Karol Bagh Market) receives consistently positive

Cycle-rickshaw & Bicycle reports; for more information see p382.
RAJOURI
GARDEN

Cycle-rickshaws are banned from Connaught

RITHALA

Place and New Delhi, but are extremely handy Taxi & Autorickshaw
GARDEN
TAGORE

for commuting between Connaught Place and All taxis and autorickshaws are metered but
SUBHASH NAGAR

Paharganj (about Rs 20). They’re also recom- you’ll usually find the meters are ‘not work-
mended in Chandni Chowk (Old Delhi), as ing’ or that drivers will simply refuse to turn
TILAK NAGAR

the drivers are veritable wizards at weaving them on. Unless you’ve got an iron will, you’ll
LINE 1 - Shahdara to Rithala

LINE 2 - Vishwa Vidyalaya

through the crowds and gridlocks. You might usually end up haggling over a price rather
LINE 3 - Indraprastha to

JANAK PURI
EAST

decide to save your haggling skills for another than standing for hours trying to find a meter-
Darakhamba Road to
to Central Secretariat

occasion, since cycle-rickshaw drivers are usu- willing driver (taxis cost roughly double auto-
Dwarka Sub to City

JANAK PURI
WEST

ally some of Delhi’s poorest (employed) resi- rickshaws; as a guide, an autorickshaw from
DWARKA SEC-9
DWARKA SEC-10
INTERCHANGE

dents, won’t try to dupe you as frequently as Connaught Place to Old Delhi should be Rs
DWARKA SEC-11
UTTAM NAGAR

autorickshaw drivers, face stiff competition 40 to Rs 50). Prices will depend on how sea-
EAST
UTTAM NAGAR

DWARKA SEC-12

among legions of others, and are restricted in soned a traveller you appear to be, and the
DEPOT

their access to popular parts of the city. time of year. When there’s less tourist trade
DWARKA MOR WEST

DWARKA SEC-13

If you want to purchase a bike, the largest in the winter months, you’ll find that fares
DWARKA SEC-14
NAWADA

range of new and secondhand bicycles can drop considerably. If you do get lucky with
be found at Jhandewalan Cycle Market (Map a working meter, remember that from 11pm
pp92–3). to 5am, there’s a 25% surcharge for autorick-
shaws and taxis.
Metro
DWARKA

To avoid shenanigans, you can try to catch

NAJAFGARH
DEPOT

Delhi’s metro system (www.delhimetrorail.com) an autorickshaw from a prepaid booth; loca-

opened to great acclaim in 2002 and is still in tions are listed over page. In practice, though,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
126 G R E AT E R D E L H I • • Tu g h l a q a b a d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G R E AT E R D E L H I • • Q u t b M i n a r 127

unless you happen to be near a prepaid The Qutb Minar itself is a soaring tower 1862, following his implication in the 1857 before the mosque’s construction. A six-line
DELHI

DELHI
booth at a time of day when it’s not only of victory whose construction begun in 1193, Indian Uprising. Sanskrit inscription indicates that it was ini-
officially open, but also has someone sitting immediately after the defeat of the last Hindu The Qutb Minar Festival is held here every tially erected outside a Vishnu temple, pos-
behind the counter, you’ll have to resort to kingdom in Delhi. It’s nearly 73m high and October or November (p99). sibly in Bihar, and was raised in memory of
haggling hard. tapers from a 15m-diameter base to just 2.5m Chandragupta II, who ruled from AD 375
Government of India Tourist Office (Map p100; 88 at the top. Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid to 413.
Janpath; h11am-7pm) The booth is just outside the The tower has five distinct storeys, each At the foot of the Qutb Minar stands the first What the inscription does not mention is
tourism office. marked by a projecting balcony. The first mosque to be built in India, the Might of Islam how the pillar was made, for the iron in the
New Delhi train station car park (Map p110; three are of red sandstone, while the upper Mosque. Qutb-ud-din began construction of pillar is of quite exceptional purity. Scientists
h24hr) floors are of marble and sandstone. Although the mosque in 1193, but various additions and have never discovered how the iron, which has
Palika Bazaar’s Gate No 2 (Map p100; Connaught Pl; Qutb-ud-din began construction of the tower, extensions have been added over the centuries. not rusted after almost 2000 years, could be
h11am-9pm) he only finished the 1st storey; his succes- Altamish, Qutb-ud-din’s son-in-law, sur- cast using the technology of that time.
sors completed it and, in 1368, Firoz Shah rounded the original mosque with a cloistered
rebuilt the top storeys and added a cupola. court, built between 1210 and 1220. Ala-ud- Alai Minar
GREATER DELHI An earthquake brought the cupola crashing
down in 1803 and an Englishman replaced
din then added a court to the east along with
the magnificent Alai Darwaza gateway in 1300.
When Ala-ud-din made his own additions to
the mosque, he also conceived an ambitious
Two atmospheric sites well worth the trek it with another in 1829. His dome, however, This gateway, the main entrance to the com- second tower of victory, exactly like the Qutb
out of the city are Tughlaqabad and the Qutb was deemed inappropriate and removed some plex, was built of red sandstone in 1310 and Minar, but twice as high. By the time of his
Minar complex, both evocative vestiges of years later. stands just southwest of the Qutb Minar. death the tower had reached 27m and was
the city’s ancient past. You can visit both in a Today, this impressively ornate tower has The mosque was built on the foundations never completed; it now stands to the north
day trip from Delhi: Tughlaqabad lies around a slight tilt (making it no longer possible to of a Hindu temple, and an inscription over the of the Qutb Minar and the mosque.
15km southeast of Connaught Place, while the climb), but otherwise has worn the centuries east gate states that it was built with materi-
Qutb Minar is 13km to the south. remarkably well. Scattered around it are a als obtained from demolishing ‘27 idolatrous Getting There & Away
number of other remains; the tomb of Imam temples’. Many elements in the mosque’s con- Catch bus 505 (Rs 15) from the Ajmeri Gate
TUGHLAQABAD Zamin is beside the entrance gateway, while struction, however, still hark back to their side of New Delhi train station or from Janpath
The crumbling battlements of Tughlaqabad (Map the tomb of Altamish, who died in 1235, is by Hindu or Jain origins. (opposite the Imperial hotel). Alternatively,
pp92-3; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100, video Rs 25; hsunrise- the northwestern corner of the mosque. The Janpath’s prepaid autorickshaw booth charges
sunset) once enclosed the third city of Delhi largely ruined madrasa of Ala-ud-din stands at Iron Pillar Rs 140 for the return trip to the Qutb Minar,
(p89). The walled city and fort with 13 gate- the rear of the complex. This 7m-high pillar stands in the courtyard including 30 minutes’ waiting time (Rs 20
ways was built by Ghiyus-ud-din Tughlaq and There are also some summer palaces in the of the mosque, where it has stood since long per extra hour).
was deserted soon after his death, possibly due area, along with the tombs of the last kings
to a dearth of fresh water nearby; not much of Delhi, who succeeded the Mughals. An
remains, though 6.5km of walls, some halls, empty space between two of the tombs was
towers, and the outline of city streets can still intended for the last king of Delhi, who died
be made out. in exile in Yangon, Burma (Myanmar), in
The city’s construction involved a legend-
ary quarrel between Ghiyus-ud-din and the QUTB MINAR
saint Nizam-ud-din: when the Tughlaq ruler COMPLEX 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
forbade workers moonlighting on the con-
struction of Nizam-ud-din’s shrine, the saint
cursed the king, warning that his city would Alai
Minar
be inhabited only by shepherds. Today, along
with legions of rhesus macaques, this is indeed
the case. Tomb of
Altamish
An autorickshaw from Connaught Place
Altamish Entrance
should cost around Rs 200 for the return Extension
trip to Tughlaqabad, including half an hour
waiting time. Iron
Pillar

QUTB MINAR Quwwat-ul-Islam

Masjid © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
The imposing buildings of the Qutb Minar com- restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Qutb
plex (%26643856; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/250, video Rs 25; Minar
hsunrise-sunset Tue-Sun) are the first monuments Madrasa of
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
of Islamic rule in India and are fine examples Ala-ud-din Alai
Darwaza
Tomb
of Imam everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
of early Afghan architecture. Zamin
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’