Department name: Textile Engineering

Section: TE-01

Course Code: ENG2201

Course Title: English Composition

Term paper on English use in Textile

Engineering

Submitted to Submitted By
SM. Samuel Karim Name: Siam Uddin
ID: 172-08-0-155
Lecturer, Dept. of English,
BGMEA University of Fashion &
Name: Md. Mustafizur Rahman
Technology. ID: 172-013-0-155
Name: Dhrubo Adhikary
ID: 172-015-0-155
Name: Avishek Paul
ID: 172-021-0-155
Name: Md. Junayed Hossain
ID: 172-035-0-155

Submission date: 30.07.20

 ENGLISH Use in Textile Engineering
Textile engineering (TE) or textile technology deals with the application of
scientific and engineering principles to the design and control of all aspects of
fiber, textile, and apparel processes, products, and machinery. After
completing textile engineering, a textile engineer works in a textile industry. In
this paper we are going to discuss about the English use in Textile
Engineering.
1. History of Textile Engineering
Textile Engineering is one of the oldest human activities. The oldest known textiles date
back to about 5000 B.C. In order to make textiles, the first requirement is a source
of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed
by knitting or weaving to create cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. Cloth
is finished by what are described as wet processes to become fabric. The fabric may
be dyed, printed or decorated by embroidering with coloured yarns.
The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably
made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the elements. At some point,
people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles. The discovery of dyed flax fibres in a cave
in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests textile-like materials were made
even in the Paleolithic era.

A weaving shed of the Finlayson & Co factory in Tampere, Finland in 1932

Textile machinery at the Cambrian Factory, Llanwrtyd, Wales in the 1940s

The production of textiles is a craft whose speed and scale of production has been altered
almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern
manufacturing techniques.

Almost all commercial textiles are produced by industrial methods. Textiles are still
produced by pre-industrial processes in village communities in Asia, Africa and South
America. Creating textiles using traditional manual techniques is an artisan craft practised
as a hobby in Europe and North America.[1] Traditional practices are also kept alive by
artisans in China and Japan, for instance at the Chinese Printed Blue Nankeen Exhibition
Hall (Blue Cloth Museum) in Shanghai.

This timeline of textiles technology covers the events of fiber and flexible woven
material worn on the body; including making, modification, usage, and knowledge of tools,
machines, techniques, crafts, and systems (technology).
Fibers & Fabrics:

 c. 27000 BC – Impressions of textiles and basketry and nets left on small pieces of hard
clay in Europe.
 c. 25000 BC – Venus figurines depicted with clothing.
 c. 8000 BC – Evidence of flax cultivation in the Near East.
 c. 6000 BC – Evidence of woven textiles used to wrap the dead
at Çatalhöyük in Anatolia.
 c. 1988 BC – Production of linen cloth in Ancient Egypt, along with other bast
fibers including rush, reed, palm, and papyrus.
 c. 3000 BC – Breeding of domesticated sheep with a wooly fleece rather than hair in the
Near East.[2]
 c. 2500 BC – The Indus Valley Civilization cultivates cotton in the Indian subcontinent.
 c. 1000 BC - Cherchen Man was laid to rest with a twill tunic and the earliest known
sample of tartan fabric.
 c. 200 AD – Earliest woodblock printing from China. Flowers in three colors on silk.
 247 AD – Dura-Europos, a Roman outpost, is destroyed. Excavations of the city
discovered early examples of naalebinding fabric.
 1275 – Approximate date of a silk burial cushion knit in two colors found in the tomb of
Spanish royalty.
 1493 – The first available reference to lace is in a will by one of the ruling
Milanese Sforza family.[7]
 1892 – Cross, Bevan & Beadle invent Viscose.
 1938 – First commercial nylon fiber production by DuPont. Nylon is the first synthetic
non-cellulosic fiber on the market.
 1938 – First commercial PTFE fiber production by DuPont.
 1953 – First commercial polyester PET fiber production by DuPont.
 1958 – Spandex fiber invented by DuPont's Joseph Shivers.
 1964 – Kevlar fiber invented by DuPont's Stephanie Kwolek.

Tools and Machines

Ancient and Prehistoric

 c. 28000 BC – Sewing needles in use at Kostenki in Russia.

 c. 6500 BC – Approximate date of Naalebinding examples found in Nahal
Hemar cave, Israel. This technique, which uses short separate lengths of thread,
predated the invention of knitting (with its continuous lengths of thread) and requires
that all of the as-yet unused thread be pulled through the loop in the sewn material. This
requires much greater skill than knitting in order to create a fine product.
 4200 BC – Date of Mesolithic examples of Naalebinding found in Denmark, marking
spread of technology to Northern Europe.
 200 BC to 200 AD – Approximate date of earliest evidence of "Needle Knitting" in Peru,
a form of Naalebinding that preceded local contact with the Spanish.
 298 AD – Earliest attestation of a foot-powered loom, with a hint that the invention arose
at Tarsus.
Medieval History

 500s – Handheld roller cotton gins invented in the Indian subcontinent.

 500-1000 – Spinning wheel invented in the Indian subcontinent.
 1000s – Finely decorated examples of cotton socks made by true knitting using
continuous thread appear in Egypt.
 1000s – The earliest clear illustrations of the spinning wheel come from the Islamic
world.
 1100s-1300s – Dual-roller cotton gins appear in India and China.[
 1200s-1300s – The worm gear roller cotton gin invented in the Indian
subcontinent during the early Delhi Sultanate era.
 1400s-1500s – The incorporation of the crank handle in the cotton gin, first appeared in
the Indian subcontinent some time during the late Delhi Sultanate or the early Mughal
Empire.
 1562 – Date of first example of use of the purl stitch, from a tomb in Toledo, Spain,
which allows knitting of panels of material. Previously material had to be knitted in the
round (in a tubular form) and cut open.
 1589 – William Lee invents stocking frame, the first but hand-operated weft knitting
machine.
Early Modern Period

 c. 1600 – The modern spinning wheel comes together with the addition of the treadle to
the flyer wheel.
 1725 – Basile Bouchon in Lyon invents punched paper data storage as a means for
controlling a loom.
 1733 – John Kay patents the flying shuttle.
 1738 – Lewis Paul patents the draw roller.
 1745 – Jacques Vaucanson in Lyon invents the first fully automated loom.
 1758 – Jedediah Strutt adds a second set of needles to Lee's stocking frame thus
creating the rib frame.
 1764 – James Hargreaves or Thomas Highs invents the spinning jenny (patented
1770).
 1767 – John Kay invents the spinning frame.
 1768 – Josiah Crane invents the hand-operated warp knitting machine.
 1769 – Richard Arkwright's water frame.
 1769 – Samuel Wise solves the mechanization of W. Lee's stocking frame.
 1779 – Samuel Crompton invents the spinning mule.
 1784 – Edmund Cartwright invents the power loom.
 1791 – The Englishman Dawson solves the mechanization of the warp knitting machine.
 1793 – Samuel Slater of Belper establishes the first successful cotton spinning mill in
the United States, at Pawtucket; beginnings of the "Rhode Island System"
 1794 – Eli Whitney patents the cotton gin.
 1798 – The Frenchman Decroix (or Decroise) patents the circular bearded needle
knitting machine.
 1801 – Joseph Marie Jacquard invents the Jacquard punched card loom.
 1806 – Pierre Jeandeau patents the first latch needle (for using on knitting machine).
 1808 – John Heathcoat patented the bobbin net machine
 1812 – Samual Clark and James Mart constructed the pusher machine
 1813 – William Horrocks improves the power loom.
 1814 – Paul Moody of the Boston Manufacturing Company builds the first power loom in
the United States; beginnings of the "Waltham System"
 1823 – Associates of the late Francis Cabot Lowell of the Boston Manufacturing
Company begin operations at the Merrimack Manufacturing Company at
East Chelmsford, Massachusetts. In 1826, East Chelmsford becomes incorporated as
the town of Lowell, Massachusetts, the first factory city in the United States.
 1828 – Paul Moody develops the leather belt and pulley power transmission system,
which would become the standard for U.S. mills.
Late modern period

 1830 – Barthélemy Thimonnier develops the first functional sewing machine.

 1833 – Walter Hunt invents the lockstitch sewing machine but, dissatisfied with its
function, does not patent it.
 1842 – Lancashire Loom developed by Bullough and Kenworthy, a semi
automatic Power loom.
 1842 – John Greenough patents the first sewing machine in the United States.
 1844 – John Smith of Salford granted a patent for a shuttleless rapier loom. [citation needed][19]
 1846 – John Livesey adapts John Heathcoat's bobbinet machine into the curtain
machine
 1847 – William Mason Patents his "Mason self-acting" Mule.
 1849 – Matthew Townsend patents the variant of latch needle which has been the most
widely used needle in weft knitting machines.
 1855 – Redgate combines a circular loom with a warp knitting machine
 1856 – Thomas Jeacock of Leicester patented the tubular pipe compound needle.
 1857 – Luke Barton introduces a self-acting narrowing mechanism on S. Wise's knitting
machine.
 1857 – Arthur Paget patents a multi-head knitting machine called "Paget-machine".
 1859 – Wilhelm Barfuss improves on Redgates machine, called Raschel
machines (named after the French actress Élisabeth Félice Rachel).
 1864 – William Cotton patents the straight bar knitting machine named after him
("Cotton machine").
 1865 – The American Isaac Wixom Lamb patents the flat knitting machine using latch
needles.
 1865 – Clay invents the double-headed latch needle which has enabled to create purl
stitch knitting.
 1866 – The American Mac Nary patents the circular knitting machine (with vertical
needles) for fabrication of socks and stockings with heel and toe pouches.
 1878 – Henry Griswold adds a second set of needles (horizontal needles) to the circular
knitting machine enabling knitting of rib fabrics as cuff for socks.
 1881 – Pierre Durand invents the tubular pipe compound needle.
 1890s – Development of the Barmen machine
Contemporary

 1889 – Northrop Loom: Draper Corporation, First automatic bobbin

changing weaving loom placed in production. Over 700,000 would be sold worldwide.
 1900 – Heinrich Stoll creates the flat bed purl knitting machine.
 1910 – Spiers invents the circular bed purl knitting machine.
 c. 1920 – Hattersley loom developed by George Hattersley and Sons.
 1924 – Celanese Corporation produces the first acetate fiber.
 1928 – International Bureau of Standardization of Man Made Fibers founded.
 1939 – US passes Wool Products Labeling Act, requiring truthful labeling of wool
products according to origin.
 1940 – Spectrophotometer invented, with impact on commercial textile dye processes.
 1942 – First patent for fabric singeing awarded in US.
 1949 – Heinrich Mauersberger invents the sewing-knitting technique and his "Malimo"
machine.
 1955 – Research begins on multi-phase weft insertion. Successful examples will not
exist until the 80s and late 90s.
 1956 – Du Pont Introduces a process for spinning sheaf yarn, a precursor to air-jet
spinning.
 c. 1960s. Existing machines become outfitted with computerized numeric control (CNC)
systems, enabling more accurate and efficient actuation.
 1960 – US passes Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, dealing with mandatory
content disclosure in labelling, invoicing, and advertising of textile products
 1963 – Open-end spinning developed in Czechoslovakia.
 1965 – Dunlop Rubber awarded patent for polyurethane sheets fused together using
ultrasonic vibrations, a precursor to fusing of coated textiles
 1968 – Fabric pleating machine patented in Germany.
 1979 – Murata manufacturing demonstrates air splicing of yarn.
 c. 1981 – Air jet spinning enters the US market.
 1983 – Bonas Machine Company Ltd. presents the first computer-controlled, electronic,
Jacquard loom.
 1988 – First US patent awarded for a "pick and place" robot.

Treatments, Dyes, and Finishes

 500 AD – jia xie method for resist dyeing (usually silk) using wood blocks invented in
China. An upper and a lower block is made, with carved out compartments opening to
the back, fitted with plugs. The cloth, usually folded a number of times, is inserted and
clamped between the two blocks. By unplugging the different compartments and filling
them with dyes of different colors, a multi-colored pattern can be printed over quite a
large area of folded cloth.
 600s – Oldest samples of cloth printed by woodblock printing from Egypt.
 1799 – Charles Tennant discovers and patents bleaching powder.
 1856 – William Henry Perkin invents the first synthetic dye.
 1921 – Georges Heberlein, of Switzerland, patents a treatment of cellulose with sulfuric
acid to create organdy.
 c. 1945-1970 – Antimicrobial research enters a "golden" period. By the 1980s,
antimicrobial treatments for textiles are developed and implemented in manufacturing.
 1954 – Fiber reactive dye invented, with better performance for dyeing cellulosic fiber
 1961 – Du Pont assigned patent for yarn fasciation
 1967 – Dow Chemical Co patents method for treating textile materials with a
fluorocarbon resin, offering water, oil, and stain repellency
 1970 – Superwash acid treatment of wool creates a more durable material that does not
shrink in laundry.
 1979 – US DoD's Natick Labs grants multi-millions of dollars for research in chemical
and biological protection garments.

2.Pioneers of Textile Engineering

The colleges are the pioneer of Textile Engineering. The colleges are playing the role of
developing the students as ideal citizens who are paying their contribution to develop the
country. The students of those colleges gather both theoretical and practical knowledge.
Their brain is the store house of knowledge and their hands are the machines to enrich their
own lives, families and country.

Top 10 Textile Universities in the World:

1. North Carolina State University (USA)
2. University of Nebraska-Lincoln (USA)
3. Saxion University of Applied Sciences (Netherlands)
4. The University of Bolton (UK)
5. University of Manchester (UK)
6. University of Leeds (UK)
7. Dresden University of Technology (Germany)
8. De Montfort University (UK)
9. Loughborough University (UK)
10. Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh (UK)

Textile Universities in Bangladesh:

Public Textile/Fashion Design/Apparel Merchandising
Universities/Colleges
1. Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX)
2. Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology University (MBSTU)
3. Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology (DUET)
4. Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET)
5. Textile Engineering College, Noakhali
6. Chittagong Textile Engineering College
7. Pabna Textile Engineering College
8. Bangabandhu Textile Engineering College
9. Abdur Rab Serniabat Textile Engineering College
10.Jhenaidah Textile Engineering College

Private Textile/Fashion Design/Apparel Merchandising Universities/Colleges:

1. Ahsanullah University of Science Technology
2. Daffodil International University
3. BGMEA University OF fashion & Technology (BUFT)
4. Southeast University (Bangladesh)
5. Shyamoli Textile Engineering College
6. Primeasia University
7. Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
8. National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
9. City University
10. World University of Bangladesh
Public Privet Partnership (PPP) Textile College/Institute/University
National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)

Besides that, Pioneers of Textiles are- (Who had dedicated their lives for the
revolution of textiles)
Thomas Ainsworth (1795–1841) was born in Bolton le Moors, Lancashire a textile-producing
region in England. Thomas Ainsworth was a textile engineer who established synthetic bleach works
in Almelo, Aalten and Enschede, eastern Netherlands and later founded the Twente Steam bleach
works in Goor in 1832. He also established a textile school in Overijssel.

Kenneth C. Brugger After the world war two he went to work for Jockey International and
rose to the position of chief engineer for Jockey's worldwide knitting operations. He designed
innovative knitting machines, including a compactor that minimized shrinkage in knitted underwear.

Edmund Cartwright designed his first power loom in 1784 and patented it in 1785, but it
proved to be valueless. In 1789, he patented another loom which served as the model for later
inventors to work upon. For a mechanically driven loom to become a commercial success, either one
person would have to be able to attend to more than one machine, or each machine must have a
greater productive capacity than one manually controlled. Cartwright added improvements, including
a positive let-off motion, warp and weft stop motions, and sizing the warp while the loom was in
action. He commenced to manufacture fabrics in Don Caster using these looms, and discovered
many of their shortcomings. He attempted to remedy these in a number of ways: by introducing a
crank and eccentric wheels to actuate its batten differentially, by improving the dicking mechanism,
by means of a device for stopping the loom when a shuttle failed to enter a shuttle box, by preventing
a shuttle from rebounding when in a box, and by stretching the cloth with temples that acted
automatically. In 1790 Robert Grimshaw of Gorton, Manchester erected a weaving factory at Knott
Mill which he intended to fill with 500 of Cartwright's power looms. Cartwright also patented a wool
combing machine in 1789 and a Cordelier (machine for making rope) in 1792.
James Hargreaves (1720 – 22 April 1778) was an English weaver, carpenter and inventor
who lived and worked in Lancashire, England. He was one of three men responsible for the
mechanization of spinning: Hargreaves is credited with inventing the spinning jenny in 1764. The
idea for the spinning jenny is said to have come when a one-thread spinning-wheel was overturned
on the floor, and Hargreaves saw both the wheel and the spindle continuing to revolve. He realized
that if a number of spindles were placed upright and side by side, several threads might be spun at
once. The spinning jenny was confined to producing cotton weft threads, and was unable to produce
yarn of sufficient quality for the warp.

Thomas Highs (1718–1803) of Leigh, Lancashire, was a reed-maker and manufacturer of

cotton carding and spinning engines in the 1780s, during the Industrial Revolution. He is known for
claiming patents on a spinning jenny, a carding machine and the throstle (a machine for the
continuous twisting and winding of wool) he invented a perpetual carding engine in 1773, and
invented an improved double spinning jenny.

Paul Moody (May 23, 1779 – July 5, 1831) was a U.S. textile machinery inventor born
in Byfield, Massachusetts (Town of Newbury). He is often credited with developing and perfecting
the first power loom in America, which launched the first successful integrated cotton mill
at Waltham, Massachusetts in 1814. He improved upon the double speeder, a device for roping
cotton and got the patent on April 3, 1819.On January 17, 1818, he improved upon the soapstone
rollers for Horrocks' dressing machine thereby doubling its efficacy.

John Wyatt developed the concept of elongating cotton threads by running them through rollers
and then stretching them through a faster second set of rollers. They produced the first ever roller
spinning machine.

Pioneers of Textiles in Bangladesh

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) is a

pioneering and leading trade association in Bangladesh that has brought garment
manufacturers and exporters on a common platform with an aim to ensure a congenial
business climate for sustainable growth in the apparel industry. Since its inception,
BGMEA has been working relentlessly to promote and protect the interests of the
apparel industry that has brought about revolutionary socio-economic changes in
Bangladesh by generating employment, empowering women and alleviating poverty.

When our only major export earner "the jute industry" started losing its golden days, it
is the RMG sector that replaced it, and then, to overtake it.

The apparel industry of Bangladesh started its journey in the 1980s and has come to the
position it is in today. The late Nurool Quader Khan was the pioneer of the readymade
garment industry in Bangladesh. He had a vision of how to transform the country. In
1978, he sent 130 trainees to South Korea where they learned how to produce
readymade garments.

With those trainees, he set up the first factory "Desh Garments” to produce garments
for export. At the same time, the late Akhter Mohammad Musa of Bond Garments, the
late Mohammad Reazuddin of Reaz Garments, MdHumayun of Paris Garments,
Engineer Mohammad Fazlul Azim of Azim Group, Major (Retd) Abdul Mannan of
Sunman Group, M Shamsur Rahman of Stylecraft Limited, the first President of
BGMEA, AM Subid Ali of Aristocrat Limited also came forward and established some
of the first garment factories in Bangladesh. Anisul Haque was one of the best pioneers
of Bangladesh.

Following their footsteps, other prudent and hardworking entrepreneurs started RMG
factories in the country. Since then, Bangladeshi garment industry did not need to look
behind. Despite many difficulties faced by the sector over the past years, it has carved
a niche in world market and kept continuing to show robust performance.
 3.Future of Textile Engineering
Wearing clothes is one of the five basic needs for human civilization. We can’t
imagine a day without the usage of textile in our day-to-day lives.

From the bed, you get up from every morning and to the fancy dress you buy for
luxury, the textile is always present in our lives knowingly or unknowingly.

Figure: future of the textile industry will be more technology integrated.

Courtesy: softwaredesignsolutions.com

Today’s world is very competitive. Everyone is running after the success.

But how many of them can reach that apex of their career life? The answer
will be approximately 25% or at least not more than 40%. The reason
behind this is choosing the wrong subject in the first step of their career
life. That means in Graduate level. Our dream of being successful in our
career life drives us to choose a subject in graduate level.
So it is very important to choose a right subject in graduate. Otherwise, our
one wrong step may spoil our whole dream! That’s why it’s better to take
time to think over it so that you need not regret later. Before taking any
decision, at first, a student should find out his aim in life. He should choose
a subject which he loves as well as which is demanding in the present
world. Because after all as a human, he has to serve the people of the
world.
Weave Your Dream in the Textile
Field
Now thinking about what to choose and what to not? The answer is very
easy. A few days ago the profession which was not acceptable in the
civilized society, today its demand is undeniable. And that is Textile
Engineering, day by day which demand is increasing in the twinkling of an
eye.
A global textile business is flourishing at high speed. In present
industrialization, textile industry brings a great revolution. The textile
industries are very much responsible for the developed economies. The
profit in this sector is unbeatable.
Within a very short time, the textile industry is becoming very popular with
the businessman than other industries. The developing countries like
Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, India, Myanmar, Turkey, Vietnam, Indonesia, and
Pakistan are earning maximum foreign currency from the textile sectors.
In the present world, the demand for a textile engineer is very high. That’s
why the top universities of the developed countries are offering scholarship
on Textile Engineering. So after completing graduation in Textile
Engineering, it would be easy to get a scholarship in abroad for higher
studies. Even a textile engineer can easily emigrate abroad with a job just
after completing graduation!

Textile Engineering and its Job Opportunities

Most of the people think that the main job of a textile engineer is only
sewing, which is similar to a tailor. But unfortunately, the idea of the textile
field is totally wrong! Doing BSc in Textile Engineering means to have a
clear knowledge of the full process of textiles. This process starts with the
yarn and finishes with a ready-made garment. It is actually a lengthy
process. For this reason, BSc in Textile Engineering is classified into
different major subjects.
Such as yarn manufacturing, fabric manufacturing, textile management, wet
processing, apparel manufacturing and textile fashion designing etc. None
of these can be avoided in the textile sector. Because these all are included
in the full process. That means a textile engineer has the knowledge of not
only sewing but also weaving, knitting, dying, printing and what not! A
student who will start his BSc in Textile Engineering will know every ins
and outs of textile fields. The factory is the heart of the textile field.
Without having factory knowledge, a textile engineer can’t be complete in
spite of having many degrees in textile. That’s why most of the universities
ensure at least two months of internship in a factory. In this way, the textile
engineers can able to gather practical knowledge besides theoretical
knowledge. All of this knowledge leads a textile engineer to his ambitious
career life.
Undoubtedly the scopes in the textile sectors are vast
Getting a job for a textile graduate is not a big deal. A textile engineer has
many options after his graduation. He can work as a merchandiser, as a
garment technologist, as a production manager and many more. There
is also an opportunity in the government job for a textile engineer under the
ministry of textiles.
A textile engineer has an opportunity to serve worldwide. He can join either
in a factory or in a buying house.
In both, a textile engineer can get the opportunity to work with the
foreigners. This helps him to expand his knowledge. And he can easily
switch his job either in his country or in another country. No other
profession will provide this facility!
Moreover, the remuneration of a textile engineer is very attractive as well
as other facilities! In this modern era, the thinking of the people is changing
gradually about a textile engineer. Now people realize the value of BSc in
Textile Engineering.
It’s not that much hard to study in BSc in Textile Engineering. So pupil
should think over it and should increase their interest in this field for the
progress of the global industrialization. This will bring not only their bright
career but also a well-developed world.

Future challenges of Textile Engineering In Bangladesh

Bangladesh textile industry has very bright future with its robust demand in garment
sector. But it is true that there are some challenges that Bangladesh has to face to
survive in this sector. We know that availability of abundant natural gas, cheap labor,
energy is the backbone of this industry. But in recent years this thing turned into
hostile. Raw cotton and synthetic fiber for sipping sector also not produced in
Bangladesh so that job market is collapsing day by day.

Source: The Daily Star

Source: Statista

Fig: Bangladesh’s ready-made garment export during the period, according to Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)

4. Problems of Textile Engineering

Undoubtedly textile industry contributes the most to the economy of Bangladesh. To enhance
this contribution, the most wanted thing is to create skillful and qualified Textile Engineers.
The Government is quite enthusiastic in this regard. In addition to the Bangladesh University
of Textiles, the government has already established six Textile Engineering Colleges and
more institutions are in the pipeline, providing 4 years Bachelor Degree on Textile
Engineering with well-oriented courses. Government has set up these institutions to develop
the students as skillful textile engineers as well as human resources, so that the textile sector
of Bangladesh can be more glorious.

The 4 years Bachelor Degree has been formulated with adequate concurrence along with the
practical textile sector and Lab facilities are also good enough. It has been found that there
are some sophisticated and expensive machines in the labs which are even not available in
highly developed industries. These institutions are unique in this regard to build students as
skilled textile engineers.

But the bitter truth is – most of the leadership positions in textile industries are occupied by
foreign experts. According to the data of BGMEA, about five lakhs of both legal and illegal
foreign workers are working in textile sector of our country and taking away TK 48
thousands crores every year. Here, the question arises in spite of taking all the required
initiatives by private enterprises as well as the government, why aren't the local engineers
becoming as skillful and qualified as foreign employees? Why are our local engineers till
lacking behind?
Despite of having great innovative course modules, visually well-organised eye catching
campus, we still have some limitations. Though the textile engineering colleges are affiliated
by Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex), they are directly controlled by Ministry of
Textile & Jute. So for some decisions, the engineering colleges depend on BUTex, again for
other decisions depend on ministry of Textile & Jute. This actually causes some difficulties
during the maintaining & management of those textile engineering colleges.

Besides, these institutions are lacking of dynamic teachers. In textile engineering colleges,
teachers are recruited through BCS process. So the students of these colleges are not getting
teachers according to their different departments as per their requirements. It is seen that in
some colleges, there are several teachers for teaching same subject, but in some departments
there are no teachers. As a result, a teacher who has earlier completed his graduation or post-
graduation from Wet Processing Department is forced to take a class of Fabric or Yarn
Department and so on. This actually causes a lot of difficulties for the teachers as well as the
students.

To solve this problem, sometimes teachers from BUTEX are recruited as guest teachers for
those colleges. The guest teachers usually remain busy with their classes at BUTex.
Managing a short period of time, they visit these textile colleges located at different points of
the country, and complete the whole courses in a rush (about 5-7 days). Due to lack of time,
after finishing the theoretical classes, the students do not get enough practical classes. Again
about lab operating, in most cases there is no machine operator, or maybe there is one
operator who can operate 1 or 2 machine of the lab. As a result, the labs and the machines
bought with huge amount of money do not get utilized properly and the students do not get
expected facilities.
Another fact is the textile industry of our country is in Dhaka and Chittagong centric. Most
of the industries and different exhibitions about textiles take place in these two cities. On the
other hand, the textile engineering colleges are located at different parts of Bangladesh. So
except industrial tours, the students have no other option to enhance their industrial
knowledge. Though the authorities have a plan to arrange one industrial tour in each
semester, some institution only provides 3-4 industrial tours during whole four-year bachelor
courses.
When students appeal to their college authorities about these problems, the authorities
provide some disappointing reasons such as the risk of operating such expensive machine,
high electricity bills, budget lacking etc.

These small obstacles become huge factor after four years of education. Thus many students
lose interest in learning practical things due to continuous deprivation and eventually cannot
become adept in textile engineering. That is why industries are forced to hire foreign experts.
Technical education is one of the focus areas of the government, but regrettably the
aforementioned shortcomings are hindering the growth of skilled technicians. To overcome
this situation what we actually need is to maintain perfect supervision of the utilization of the
resources by Government as well as students and college authorities. Only then we can
achieve our target of creating skilled textile engineers.

5.My contributions to the country, after passing from TE

Textile engineer is a key person in any textile industry. A textile engineer should play
important vital role in a textile mill for continuous smooth running and further
development of the mill. He has to operate all activities in a textile mill from planning
to delivery. He should do work in the following section of a mill. By doing all these
things as a textile engineer in the textile industry I am indirectly helping my country.
For example, if my factory production increases for me, it will help the economic
growth of my country.

Roles of mine as a textile engineer in textile mill:

Planning: I have to plan in all section for the smooth flow of production. I haveto distribute
the work of the worker for balancing the work.

Control: I have to control the production and the people according to the plan to get
optimum efficiency.

Organization: I watch over the manufacturing process and introduces required system it
needed for quality production.
Re-viewing: I have to review the activities of shift in charge and supervise every month
according to production manager order.

Administration: I check daily and monthly report.

Leadership: I will make the worker to give their best by inspiring and motivating. I will
commit myself to the company and faster that same kind of commitment in my flowers. I
know their strength, weakness, hope and goal.

Management contact: I need consultation with production manager in matter of production

planning and work distribution of people. I consult with quality assurance manager in case of
quality falls as well as production quality for individual buyer.

Maintenance schedule: He needs to check and maintain proper maintenance schedule for
every machine.

Energy supply: Obviously energy is very important thing for textile mill. It should confirm
to supply sufficient energy to run the industry.

Inventory control: Engineers plays an important role to control appropriate and necessary
spare parts and raw material to smooth run the mill.

Environmental conscious: I should control to create minimum pollution from the mill.

Marketing policy: This is very important section for a mill. I should play right step to
familiar and promote its product to buyer.

The main Work and responsibilities of mine as a textile engineer are as

given:

1. I will provide technical suggestions and recommendations to designing,

marketing, and purchasing, and production staff.
2. I will responsible for creating products in compliance wit h the given
specifications.
3. I need to learn latest trends and requirements of people.
4. I will involve in textile harvesting, which includes production and
processing.
5. I will develop samples, amend designs, evaluate, identify and choose
fabrics from suppliers.
6. One of the important role is I will make sure that the final product meets
pre-decided specifications in terms of color security and durability.
6. English use in Textile Engineering
In textile engineering, there are four department

1. Yarn Manufacturing Department

2. Fabric Manufacturing Department
3. Apparel Manufacturing Department
4. Wet Processing Department(dyeing)

Here ,the important and uncommon terminology/jargon/technical vocabulary with its usages are given
below:
YARN DEPARTMENT
 Piled yarn: Plied yarn is yarn that has been plied, with the process called plying .
 Blend: A blend is a fabric or yarn made up of more than one type of fiber.
 Bobbin lace: Bobbin lace is a delicate lace that uses wound spools of thread
(the bobbins) to weave together the shapes in the lace.
 Bobbinet: Bobbinet is a tulle netting with hexagonal shaped holes, traditionally used
as a base for embroidery and lingerie.
 Ballistic nylon: Ballistic nylon is a thick, tough synthetic fabric used for a variety
of applications.
 Viscose: Viscose is an artificial cellulose-based polymer, sometimes used as a
synonym for Rayon.

 Cord: Cord is twisted fiber, usually intermediate between rope and string. It is also
used as a shortened form of corduroy.
 Spinning: Spinning is the process of creating yarn (or thread, rope, cable) from
various raw fiber materials.

Degree of yarn twist affects the yarns:

 Diameter or fineness
 Contraction
 Softness or hardness(hand)
 Bending behavior
 Absorbency
 Covering power
 Permeability
 Tensile strength
 Elastic performance/Extension and recovery.
 Resistance to creases and abrasion
 Pilling behavior
 Luster.
 Different methods of spinning:
1. Ring spinning.
2. Open-end spinning.
3. Friction spinning.
4. Self twist sinning: wool or wool like.
5. Electrostatic spinning.
6. Vortex spinning.
7. Airjet spinning: wool, man-made staple.
8. Twistless spinning.
9. Wet spinning.
10. Dry spinning: acetate
making. 11.Melt spinning:
polyester.

12.Bio-component spinning.

13.Bio-constituent spinning.

14.Integrated composite
spinning.

15.Aerodynamic spinning.

Yarn count:
Count is a numerical value which expresses the coarseness or fineness
(diameter) of the yarn and also indicates the relationship between length and
weight (the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn.
Types of yarn count:

1. Direct count system (fixed length system): Jute, Hemp, Wool etc.
2. Indirect count system (fixed weight system): Cotton, Worsted, Linen etc.

1. Direct count system:

The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit
length is the yarn count i.e. Tex, Denier, Decitex, Kilotex, Militex etc.

Common features of all direct count system are the length of yarn is fixed
and the weight of yarn varies according to fineness. Higher the count,
coarser the yarn.

Numbering system Unit of length (l) Unit of weight (w)

Tex system 1000 m No of grams (1gm)
Denier, D 9000 m No of gram (1gm)
Decitex, dtex 10,000 m No of gram (1gm)
Militex, mtex 1000 m No of milligram (1mg)
Kilotex, ktex 1000 m No of kilogram (1kg)
Jute count(pounds per 14,400 yards No of pounds (lb)(1lb)
spindle)
Definition of the above system:

Tex system :No of grams or weight in grams per 1000 m. Denier :No of
grams or weight in grams per 9000 m. Decitex :No of grams or weight in
grams per 10,000 m.

Militex :No of milligrams or weight in milligrams per 1000 m. Kilotex

:No of kilograms or weight in kilograms per 1000 m. Jute count
:No of lb or weight in lb per 14,400 yards.

2. Indirect count system:

The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn count.

Common features of all indirect count system are the weight of yarn is fixed and the length of yarn
varies according to fineness. Higher the count, finer the yarn.

Numbering system Unit of length (l) Unit of weight (w)

English cotton count, Ne 840 yards 1 pound (lb)
Metric count, Nm 1000 meters/1km 1 kg
Woollen count (YSW) 256 yards 1 pound (lb)
Woollen count (Dewsbury) 1 yard 1 ounce (oz)
Worsted count, NeK 560 yards 1 pound (lb)
Linen count, NeL 300 yards 1 pound (lb)

Definition of the above system:

English count system :No. of 840yd lengths per pound. Metric

count :No. of kilometers per kilogram. Woollen
count (YSW) :No. of 256yd lengths per pound.
Woollen count (Dewsbury) :No. of yd lengths per oz.

Worsted count, NeK :No. of 560yd lengths per pound. Linen

count, NeL :No. of 300yd lengths per pound.
Some important conversion factors:

1 kg = 1000gm 1 kg
1yard = 0.91 meter 1
= 2.2046 lb
meter = 1.091 yard
1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd/lb
1 meter = 39.37 inch
1 inch = 2.54 cm
1 km = 1000 m
1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
1 cm = 0.3937 inch
1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2
1 gm = 1000 mg

1 gm = 15.46 grain 1gm/m2 = 0.0295 oz/yd2 1

oz/yd2 = 33.91 gm/m2
1 lb = 7000 grain
1 yd/lb = 2.0159 m/k
1 grain = 7000 lb
1 hank = 840 yard
1 lb = 16 oz
1 lea = 120 yard
1 lb = 453.6 gm
7 lea = 1 hank or 840 yard
1 lb = 0.4536 kg

1 gm = 0.0353 oz

1 oz = 28.350 gm

Calculations concerning count:

In practice, three problems may have to be solved in yarn L = 700000m
calculation:
w = 1lb = 453.6gm
 Count to be found, length and weight must be
known. l = 840yds = 840 0.91m
 Weight to be found, count and length must be
known.
 Length to be found, count and weight must be
known.
 CLASSIFICATION OF LOOM

Loom

Hand Loom Power Loom

Automatic
Ordinary Power Loom
Power Loom
Modern or Shuttle less Loom

Hand Loom Modern or Shuttle less Ordinary Motor

1. Primitive or Vertical loom. Loom
1. Common Motor.
2. Pit loom 1. Projectile Loom. 2. Individual motor.
2. Rapier Loom.
(a) Throw shuttle loom. 3. Air jet Loom.
4. Multiphase.
(b) Fly shuttle loom.

3. Frame loom

(a) Throw shuttle loom.

(b) Fly shuttle loom.

4. Chitttaranjan loom.

5. Hattersley loom.
 CLASSIFICATION OF LOOM MOTION
Loom motion

Primary Motion Secondary Motion Tertiary Motion

Primary motion Secondary Motion

1. Take up
(a) Positive
1. Shedding: (b) Negative.
(a) Tappet
(b) Dobby.
(c) Jacquard.
2. Let off
2. Picking:
(a) Positive
(a) Over pick
(b) Negative.
(b) Under pick.
(c) Modern pick. (5 wheel, 7 wheel)
Tertiary Motion
3. Beating:
(a) Single 1. Warp stop motion
(b) Multiple 2. Weft stop motion (Centre, side)
(c) Variable. 3. Reed stop motion (Loose, fast)
4. Temple motion (Roller, reed)
5. Weft replenish
1. Primary Motion

In order to interlace warp and weft thread to produce fabric on any type of weaving
machine 3 primary motion is necessary:

I) Shedding:

Shedding is the first primary mechanism of weaving. It is the process of

separating the warp thread into two layers to form a tunnel called shed (through
which shuttle carrying weft passes) is known as shedding. During shedding
some yarns are raised up and some are depressed down create a tunnel.

II) Picking:

Picking is the second primary mechanism of weaving. The method of passing

the weft threads which traverse across the fabric through shed is called picking.
The inserted weft is called a pick.

III) Beating:

It is the process of pushing the pick into the already woven fabric at a point
known as fell of the cloth .By pressure of wraith to jointed feed side of the cloth
is called beating.

2. Secondary Motion
I) Take up motion:

The motion which with draw (wound up) fabric from the weaving area at a
constant rate and thus give required pick spacings and winds the fabric on to a
roller is called cloth control or Take up motion. Positive Take up motions is
mechanically driven. Negative Take up motions is spring drive.

II) Let off motion:

The motion which deliver warp to the weaving at the required rate and at a
suitable constant tension by unwinding it from a flanged known as weavers
beam is called let off motion.

3. Tertiary Motion

Tertiary motion is not must for fabric production but it is used for higher
production.
 1. Warp Stop Motion: Machine will be stopped electrically or mechanically.
2. Weft stop motion: It may be two types-

(a) Side weft motion & (b) Centre weft motion.

3. Reed stop motion: Two types-

(a) Fast reed motion.
(b) Loose reed motion.

KNITTED FABRIC

Knitting:

The second most frequently used method of fabric construction.

The propularity of knitting has been growing tremendously because of versatility of

techniques, adaptability of the many new MMF and growth in consumer demand for
wrinkle resistant, stretchable, sung fitting fabrics particularly in the greatly expanding
areas of sportswear and other casual wearing apparel. Today, the usage of knitting
fabrics ranges from hosiery, underwear, sweater, slacks, suits and coats, rugs and home
furnishing.

Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn

into a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loop hanging by the one
immediately preceding it. The basic element of knit fabric structure is the loop
intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both side and above and below it.

Fig: knitting structure.

Types of knitting:

There are two types of knitting-

1. Warp knitting and

2. Weft knitting.

Warp knitting:
Warp knitting is a method of forming fabric by knitting in which the loops are made
in vertical way along the length of the fabric from each warp yarn and intermeshing of
loops takes place in a flat form on a length wise basis.

Weft knitting:
Weft knitting is a method of forming fabric by knitting in which the loops are made in
horizontal way from a single yarn and intermeshing of loops takes place in a circular
or flat form on a course wise basis.

Course:
The loops that runs along the fabric width is called course.

Wales:
The loop which runs across the length of fabric is called wales.
Needle:
The needle is primary element of knitting machine, it is a thin metal plate with
hooked part and it helps to form loops.

Types of needle-

1. Latch needle
2. Bearded needle and
3. Compound needle.

Sinker:
The sinker is the second primary element of knitting machine, it is a thin
metal plate which acts individually or collectively approximately at right
angles from the hook side between ancient needles.

Function of sinker:

1. Loop formation
2. Holding down
3. Knocking over.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WEAVING AND KNITTING
WET PROCESSING DEPERTMENT
Steps of Wet Process:
Pretreatment Coloration Finishing

Singeing Dyeing Chemical Finishing

Desizing Printing Mechanical(Physical) Finishing

Scouring

Bleaching

Mercerizing

Singeing:
Singeing is the process carried out to remove loose hairy fibers from the surface of the
yarn or fabric. It is necessary for level dyeing and to increase luster of the fabric. It is
generally carried out for woven fabric.

Desizing:
Desizing is the process of removal of size materials (starch, gum etc) from the warp
yarn of woven fabric. Desizing is the first treatment of wet process n textile.

It can be done by acid, alkali or enzyme.

Scouring:
Scouring is the process by which all natural fat, oil, wax as well as dirt and other
impurities are removed for producing a clean textile material.

It is done mainly with soap/detergent and alkali.

Bleaching:
Bleaching is the process for improving the whiteness of textile materials by removing
the natural coloring matters. Bleaching produces a pure and permanent white effect on
fabric which is suitable for level dyeing and sharp printing.

Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2), Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl), Sodium chlorite

(NaClO2) and Bleaching power (Ca(OCl)Cl) can be used as bleaching agent.

Mercerizing:
Mercerizing is a physio-chemical process where cotton yarn/fabric is treated with 15-
20% Caustic Soda(NaOH) solution to improve their tensile strength, lusture, dye
affinity etc.

Dyeing:
Dyeing is a distribution process which is happened between textile materials and
dyes in a dyeing machine/dye bath.

There are different dyes like direct dye, acid dye, vat dye, sulpher dye, reactive
dye, disperse dye, azoic dye etc.

Terms used in dyeing

 Absorbency: A measure of how much amount of water a fabric can absorb.

 Dyes: Dye is used to color fabric. There are two main types, natural dyes and synthetic dyes.
The process is called dyeing.

 Chintz: Chintz is calico cloth printed with flowers and other devices in different colors. It
was originally of Eastern manufacture.
 Dye lot: The dye lot is a number that identifies yarns dyed in the same vat at the same time.
Subtle differences can appear between different batches of the same color yarn from the same
manufacturer.

 Batik: Batik is an Indonesian traditional word and refers to a generic wax-resist dyeing
technique used on fabric.
 Intarsia: Intarsia is a knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colors.
 Mercerized cotton: Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread mostly
employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance.
 Qalamkari: Qalamkari (also kalamkari) is a type of hand-painted or block-printed textile,
produced in various places in India.

Printing:
Textile printing is the process of applying color in ink or paste form on fabric for
producing specific design/motif in one or more colors.

or,

Textile printing is one kind of localized dyeing that is dyes or pigments are applied
locally or discontinuously to produce various design on the fabric with a motif or
motives in one or more colors.

Finishing:
In textile manufacturing finishing refers to any process performed on yarn of fabric after
weaving or knitting to impart look, performances, hand feel etc. of the finished textile or
clothing according to buyer requirement. Finishing can be done in two forms, in tube form or
open width form.

Physical finishing:
The finishing process usually involve in specific physical treatment to cause change
in appearance is called physical finishing.

Example: Calendaring, embossing, raising, sanforizing etc.

Chemical finishing:
The finishing process which is performed by application of chemical which may
react with the fibre is called chemical finishing.

Example: Starching, weighting, mercerizing, resin finishing etc.

Temporary finishing:
The finishing process where deposited material or applied treatment may be removed
by easy washing or any subsequent process is called temporary finishing.

Example: Calendaring, compacting, starching etc.

Permanent finishing:
The finishing process where deposited material or applied treatment stables upto last
stage of the process and not removed by easy washing or further process is called
permanent finishing.

Example: Raising, brusting, mercerizing etc.

Stentering:
An open-width fabric-finishing machine in which the selvedges are so held by attachments
to a pair of endless travelling chains that the fabric is finished to a specified width. The
treatments of fabrics as its full width in the unfold state in contrast to rope form.

Calendaring:
After scouring, bleaching, dyeing fabric need to dry finally to retain its delivery shape and
dimension. But at this stage fabric may become least lusterous, as the threads in the fabric
become wavy or crimp type. So we need to parallel the fabric surface to make them oriented.
To fulfill this requirements fabric is passed through some rollers at high temperature and
tension, this is known as calendaring. It’s a temporary finish.
 SMV: (Standard minute value) is mostly use in garments industry. SMV indicate
the time taking to make a garment by the worker using the right type of
machinery.
 Standard operation: for a specific item or style, the potential operator who can
give maximum output with the best quality and can improve productivity.
 Basic time: actual time to complete an operation.
 Efficiency: the comparison of what is actual production with the same
consumption o resource.
 Line target: Actual capacity of a sewing line.
 CPM: cost per minute, which means cost of every minute of garments sewing
operator.
 CM: cost of making, manufacturing cost without materials cost.
 Time study: a work measuring technique to calculate basic time by finding cycle
time and addicting allowance.
 Motion study: a technique to analyze operators’ motion and set a standard by
eliminating unnecessary motion.
 Line balancing: line balancing is a manufacturing engineering function in which
the whole collection of production line takes is divide into squall portions.
SOME STANDARD ABBREVIATION IN TEXTILE
ARENA:
AFIS = Advance Fiber Information

System.

AMT = Apparel Manufacturing

Technology.

BCSIR = Bangladesh Council of Scientific and Industry Research.

BGMEA = Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

BHB = Bangladesh Handloom Board.

BIFT = Bgmea Institute of Fashion

Technology.

BOG = Board of Governers.

BQSP = Bangladesh Quality Support Programme.

BSTI = Bangladesh Standards and Testing Institute.

BTMA = Bangladesh Textile Mills Association.

BTMC = Bangladesh Textile Mills

Corporation. CAD = Computer Aided

Design.

CAM = Computer Aided Management.

CEPD = Centre for Export and Product

Development.

FDT = Fashion Design Technology.

GOB = Government of Bangladesh.

HRD = Human Research and

Development.

HVI = High Volume Instrument.

ICT = Information Communication

Technology.

ISO = International Standard Organization.

IT = Information Technology.

ITET = Institute of Textile Engineers and

Technology.

MFA = Multi-Fiber Arrangements.

MIS = Management Information System.

NGO = Non-Government Organization.

NITRAD = National Institute of Textile Training Research and Design.

NITER = National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research.

RMG = Ready Made Garment.

SGS = Society General

Surveillance.

SOP = Standard Operating

Procedure.

TIDC = Textile Industry

Development Centre.

TQM = Total Quality Management.

TIFA = Trade and Investment Framework Agreement.

UCEP = Underprivileged Children’s Education

Program.

GMT = Greenwich Mean Time.

IDB = Islamic Development

Bank.

ADB = Asian Development

Bank.

VAT = Value Added Tax.