Consumer Attitudes Towards Luxury Fashion Apparel Made in Sweatshops
Consumer Attitudes Towards Luxury Fashion Apparel Made in Sweatshops
Consumer Attitudes Towards Luxury Fashion Apparel Made in Sweatshops
BACKGROUND
The fashion apparel industry has been aggressively embroiled in the controversial use of
sweatshops (Coakley and Kates 2013; Palmer 2013). Most American apparel manufacturers
and retailers source and import their products from approximately 150 undeveloped countries
where sweatshops are commonly found (Harrison and Scorse 2010). This accentuates the
already fierce debate on this issue among the media, student groups, union leaders,
government officials and even environmentalists (Harrison and Scorse 2010; Powell and
Zwolinski 2012). Brands such as H&M, Nike, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, Adidas, amongst many
other familiar brand names were found to be utilising sweatshops to manufacture their
apparel (Snyder 2010; Palmer 2013). Consumers are concerned not only of the products that
a retailer sells or what the best prices they can offer, but also the conditions of how the
products are being produced (Snyder 2010; Palmer 2013; Powell and Zwolinski 2012).
The recent tragic collapse of a garment factory in Bangladesh sparked and renewed media
attention on luxury brands who have had a fair share in using sweatshops to manufacture
their expensive goods, which further questions not only the poor working conditions for
sweatshop workers, but also the consumption of ethical products in the luxury context
(Palmer 2013; Powell and Zwolinski 2012; Snyder 2010). Davies, Lee and Ahonkhai (2012)
cited that while research in sweatshops is rampant in other contexts, no studies to date have
specifically looked at luxury fashion products. As highlighted by many researchers (e.g.
Barber et al., 2012; Shen et al., 2012; Sweetin et al., 2013), the question arises if the ethical
stance of the consumers may lead to the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel
that are not made in sweatshops.
Similarly, in the context of the purchase of luxury fashion apparels made in sweatshops, there
is very little work done with respect to social norms. In particular, recent studies such as
Fuchs et al. (2013) has highlighted that susceptibility to interpersonal influence on purchase
intent may very well be highly influential to boycotting products made in sweatshops (Khare
2011). Integrity is also perceived to be related to social norms and can be a significant
negative influence on purchase intent (Hamelin, Nwankwo and Hadouchi 2012).
Mukhopadhyay and Johar (2005) have found that self-efficacy may have a significant effect
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on purchase intention. In the context of sweatshops, Kang, Liu and Kim (2013) cited that
there is still a need to investigate if this could be a potential influence on purchase intent as
well as the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in a sweatshop.
Building on the gaps above, this paper strives to respond to the call for research (such as,
Hung et al., 2011) to better understand consumer purchase intentions towards luxury fashion
apparels made in sweatshops. The theory of planned behaviour (TPB) underpins the model to
test the relationships between attitudes, social norms, and perceived behavioural control on
consumer intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops. It further
examines the relationship between intention and the willingness to purchase luxury fashion
apparels not made in sweatshops.
The organisation of this paper will begin with a discussion on extant literature and leading to
the model and hypotheses development. This is followed by a description of the research
method. The research method will then lead to the discussion of the findings and analysis.
Finally, the study will conclude with managerial implications and limitations arising from
this research.
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sweatshops and the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in
sweatshops (Fuchs et al., 2013; Pickett et al., 2012).
Attitudes towards apparel made in sweatshops
A sweatshop is often referred to as poor factory working conditions where workers are
exploited to long working hours with low wages, child-labour and abusive treatment at work
(Shaw et al. 2007; Shen et al., 2012). Research stated that these issues are more likely to
happen in countries that are less developed where labour laws and workers’ rights are less
strict (Fuchs et al., 2013; Shaw et al., 2007). Due to such a phenomenon, consumers today
are more aware of the severity of sweatshop issues on health, safety and human rights. A
growing number of consumers have also tried to boycott sweatshop products (Ballinger 2011).
Research (e.g. Shaw and Tomolillo 2004; Smith 2005) has shown that awareness campaigns
is said to be an important factor influencing consumers’ attitudes towards human rights issues.
Due to the advancement of these systems, consumers today are more knowledgeable and
educated about the rising concerns of environmental and social issues that have changed the
modern consumption culture (Harrison and Scorse 2010; Judith 2011). In addition, the
increasing involvement of consumer activist groups, media and availability of ethical
products are some of the determinants that are changing consumers’ consumption and
purchasing behaviour (Carrington, Neville and Whitwell 2010; Synder 2012). Considering
giant clothing companies such as Nike, Gap Inc and Levi Strauss & Co who have been
largely exploiting sweatshops, there is still a limited amount of research being done in the
luxury fashion apparel context. Although ethical issues are often not being examined within
the luxury goods context, there are researchers who think it is important to understand ethics
from the luxury goods perspective (Garcia-Johnson and Sasser 2001; Hilton, Ghong Ju and
Stephen 2004). Considering the environmental issues today, creating a sustainable society has
always been widely discussed (Finn 2011). However, in reality, people tend to prefer living
in their comfort zone rather than taking real actions. More so, market researchers have found
that doubt is the key to what is believed to be holding some consumers back from responding
to ethical conduct (Hustvedt and Bernard 2010; Li-Wen 2010).
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when or for whom CSR works are conducted for (Auger et al., 2003; Eabrasu 2012). As such,
it can be postulated that:
H1a: Attitudes toward social consequences will have a positive relationship towards
the intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops.
H1b: Attitudes toward social consequences will have a negative relationship towards
the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops.
H2a: Attitudes toward apparel made in sweatshops will have a positive relationship
towards the intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops.
H2b: Attitudes toward sweatshops will have a negative relationship towards the
willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops.
H3a: Attitudes toward purchasing behaviour of products made in sweatshops will have
a negative relationship towards the intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made
in sweatshops.
H3b: Attitudes toward purchasing behaviour of products made in sweatshops will have
a negative relationship towards the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel
not made in sweatshops.
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H4b: Informational susceptibility to interpersonal influence will have a negative
relationship towards the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made
in sweatshops.
H5a: Normative susceptibility to interpersonal influence will have a positive
relationship towards the intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in
sweatshops.
H5b: Normative susceptibility to interpersonal influence will have a positive
relationship towards the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made
in sweatshops.
Integrity is defined as the tendency of being honest or the state of having strong moral values
(Nguyen, Melewar and Chen 2013). Researchers found that what is believed to be
influencing consumers’ purchase intention is often affected by their level of integrity towards
the particular product (Laeequddin and Sardana 2010). It is believed that people who have
high integrity are more likely to respond to ethical conduct by making ethical purchase
decisions as compared to people who have low integrity (Floyd et al., 2013; Lewick and
Bunker 1996). On the other hand, market researchers also believe that trust is sometimes the
predominant influencer of what builds a person’s integrity as people tend to react more
proactively when they have trust in a particular thing or person (Lu, Zhao and Wang 2010).
Trust develops when one puts himself in an uncertain situation expecting a favourable return
(e.g. consumers’ integrity towards a product increases when they believe that buying the
product will in turn benefit them) (Kline 2012; Rotter 1967). As a result, when trust develops,
it increases a person’s integrity towards the product which will ultimately lead them to
purchase intention. Therefore, consumers who have high level of awareness about the issues
of sweatshops will be less likely to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops. In
fact, the level of integrity would ultimately influence them to be willing to pay more for
luxury fashion apparel that is not made in sweatshops (Hamelin, Nwankwo and Hadouchi
2012). It can be postulated that:
H6a: Integrity will have a negative relationship towards the intention to purchase
luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops.
H6b: Integrity will have a positive relationship towards the willingness to pay more
for luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops.
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Luxury goods are often consumed to show one’s wellbeing and self-pleasure such as status-
seeking (Fuchs et al., 2013). Apart from seeking uniqueness and quality, luxury goods
experts argued that luxury-seeking consumers are also seeking conspicuousness and
hedonism (Finn 2011). Davies, Lee and Ahonkhai (2012) stated that, since the consumption
of luxury goods is to increase one’s hedonism. Thus, taking ethical aspect into consideration
when purchasing luxury goods is essential (e.g. ethical concern such as whether to purchase
luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops). Upon further elaboration, consumers who can
afford luxury goods should pay even more attention to ethics as the key motivation behind
luxury consumption is to present one’s high-living standards (Husic and Cicic 2008). Value is
the key to the argument, whereby consumers will only purchase something that will in turn
benefit them (e.g. a person would purchase a certain clothing brand just to show his or her
social status to others) (Haderspeck 2013; Liao and Hsieh 2013). Lastly, brand familiarity is
said to have an influence on consumers’ integrity towards purchasing behaviour; consumers
with low level of awareness about a product are less likely to purchase the product than those
who have a higher level of awareness because of the uncertainty of the value the product will
offer (Nica 2013). As a result, status consumers are more conscious about their achievements,
hence, showing their accomplishment to others is important. Therefore, consumers who often
seek status will most likely purchase luxury fashion apparel regardless of whether they are
made in sweatshops. Thus, it can be postulated that:
H7a: Status consumption will have a positive relationship towards the intention to
purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops.
H7b: Status consumption will have a positive relationship towards the willingness to
pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops.
Self-efficacy is a person’s self-belief in his own ability to perform a task. Self-efficacy often
has a direct relation to perceived behavioral control which may affect a person’s attitudes or
behavior (Ajzen 1991; Man 1998). In other words, a person’s self-efficacy towards
performing a task is determined by how well he can have control over the behavior towards
the completion of the task. Every task performed has its success and failure and self-efficacy
takes place to examine if one is actually capable of performing the task (e.g. a social smoker
would easily say that he is not addicted to smoking or it is easy for him to quit smoking
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because he is not addicted to smoking) (Fukukawa and Ennew 2010; McKee, Simmers and
Licata 2006). It can be argued that consumers who have high self-efficacy would truly
believe that they could make a change to minimize the issue of sweatshops through
boycotting luxury fashion apparel that are made in sweatshops. In doing so, they are
supporting sweatshop free luxury fashion brands. It can be postulated that:
H8a: Self-efficacy will have positive relationship towards the intention to purchase
luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops.
H8b: Self-efficacy will have positive relationship towards the willingness to pay more
for luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops.
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product exceeds the consumers’ perceived value towards the product (Dean, Raats and
Shepherd 2012; Keh and Xie 2009). It can be postulated that:
H9 Intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops will have a
negative impact towards the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not
made in sweatshops.
Data Collection
Data was collected via a mall intercept at a major shopping complex in a major city in
Australia. Shoppers were approached to participate in a self-administered questionnaire by
trained interviewers. Every fifth individual that crossed a designated spot outside the main
entrance of the mall was approached to participate. Prior to the data collection, interviewers
were given instructions on how to administrate the survey instrument and to ensure
demographic profiles of respondents are included. Data collection was conducted over a
three-week period including both weekdays and weekend. Measuring consumer’s attitudes
and perceptions towards apparel made in sweatshops in a mall or shopping related
environment would allow population of interest to relate to what the research intends to
investigate (Wang et al., 2005; Sweetin et al., 2013).
Survey Instrument
The survey instrument was developed into five sections consisted of established scales and a
section on demographics. The description of scale items and their reliabilities are reflected in
Table 1. Sections A and B measured consumer’s susceptibility towards interpersonal
influence, integrity and status consumption. The next section shows a stimulus which is a
montage of pictures and information about the recent collapse of the factory in Bangladesh.
Section C measured the attitudes and purchase intentions towards luxury fashion apparel
made in sweatshops. Section D measured consumer’s self-efficacy towards luxury fashion
apparel made in sweatshops. Section E measured consumer’s intention towards purchasing
behaviour of apparel made in sweatshops. All items were measured on a seven point Likert
scale with 1 representing “strongly disagree” and 7 “strongly agree”.
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FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION
Samples
260 questionnaires were collected and of these, 63 responses were discarded due to
incompletion. The remaining 197 usable responses were then gathered and analysed with
SPSS software version 21. The sample distribution is shown in Table 2. 48.2% of the
respondents were male, and 51.8% were females. Majority of the respondents were between
21-35 years old (47.7%) earning below $15,000 (58.9%) and have either a diploma or
certificate (42.6%).
An exploratory factor analysis was conducted on the original 12-item attitudes towards
intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops scale. Through varimax
rotation, three factors emerged namely “Attitudes towards social consequences”, “Attitudes
towards sweatshops” and “Attitudes towards purchasing behaviour”. In total, they were
reduced to 10 items with an acceptable range of reliabilities as reflected in Table 3.The scale
of attitudes towards intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops is
clearly three-dimensional as postulated through recent literature. As such, these three factors
were used independently for all subsequent regression analysis as depicted in the model.
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found to be insignificant (p<0.911, ß= -0.007, adjusted R2 = 0.286). Hence H2a and H3a are
supported and H1a is rejected.
For social norms, only integrity is found to be significant (p<0.000, ß=0.285, adjusted R2 =
0.111). Therefore, H6a, H4a, H5a and H7a are rejected.
Finally for perceived behavioural control (PBC), self-efficacy showed a significant positive
relationship with “purchase intention towards luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops”
(p<0.000, ß= 0.339, adjusted R2 = 0.110), hence, H8a is supported.
Influence of antecedents on “Willingness to pay more for luxury branded apparel not
made in sweatshops”
Multiple linear regressions were conducted between the three sets of antecedents and the
“willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops”. Based on the
results in Table 5, attitudes towards social consequences (p<0.000, ß= 0.292, adjusted R2 =
0.161) and attitudes towards purchasing behaviour of product made in sweatshops (p<0.003,
ß= 0.213, adjusted R2 = 0.161) showed a significant relationship towards willingness to pay
more for luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops. However, attitudes towards sweatshops
was found to be insignificant (p<0.818, ß= 0.016, adjusted R2 = 0.161). Hence H1b and H3b are
supported and H2b is rejected.
For social norms, only integrity showed a significant relationship (p<0.000, ß=0.284,
adjusted R2 = 0.059) towards willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in
sweatshops. H4b, H5b and H7b are rejected and H6b is supported.
Finally for perceived behavioural control (PBC), there is a positive relationship between self-
efficacy and “willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops”
(p<0.000, ß=0.278, adjusted R2 = 0.068). As a result, H8b is supported.
Influence of purchase intention on “Willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel
not made in sweatshops”
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Linear regression was conducted between “intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made
in sweatshops” and “willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops”
to test H9. The results revealed that, the intention to purchase luxury fashion apparel made in
sweatshops was found to have a significant positive relationship (p<0.000, ß=0.390, R 2 =
0.147) towards willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops.
Therefore, H9 is supported.
There were a number of interesting results which emerged in this study. It was found that
attitudes towards social consequences have significant influence on the purchase intention
towards luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops and the willingness to pay more for
luxury fashion apparel not made in sweatshops. This shows that consumers who are aware of
the negative impact that sweatshops will bring about to the society will not intend to purchase
luxury clothing that is made from sweatshops, but rather they would be willing to pay more
for luxury clothing that is not made in sweatshops. Luxury brands should take this cue and
strengthen their branding strategies by focussing on brand exclusivity (Spiggle, Nguyen and
Caravella 2012). In other words, brands being able to produce luxury clothing in a humane
environment with authentic material and genuine artisan skills that is far different from how
sweatshop products are manufactured. Another related strategy would be for brand owners to
increase its brand exclusiveness through the adoption of “super-premium” pricing. Through
such adoption, products are set at a much higher price than the market price so that the skill
work of the artisans who do not use sweatshops to manufacture their products can be
accredited. More so, it is the means to tell the public that their products are free from
sweatshops (Hudders, Pandelaere and Vyncke 2013). It can be built further as a unique
selling proposition and further enhance itself by building a cult or niche market.
Attitude towards purchasing behaviour of products made in sweatshops is also shown to have
an influence on the purchase intention towards luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops
and the willingness to pay more for luxury fashion apparel. Considering that consumers’
perception towards sweatshops do have a direct influence on purchase intention and the
willingness to pay more, luxury brand owners should work closely with brand advertisers to
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continue enhance its’ brand image through different promotional campaigns. The message
should appeal to the respect for quality, craftsmanship and skills that these artisans have
taken years to master.
Integrity is found to influence both intention to purchase and willingness to pay more for
products not made in sweatshops. From the social policy point of view, the emphasis here
should be upon educating consumers about the importance of ethics and moral values with
regard to sweatshops. Based on the literature, this needs to be educated and exercised at a
young age. Educational programs on integrity should not be limited to just schools, but also
through television programs and media. In fact, educational programs should be introduced to
the general public such as consumers and domestic businesses from different industries (Paul
2008). It is important to understand that introducing educational programs will not only
change consumers’ purchasing behaviour but also manufacturers’ purchase and selling
behaviour (Paul 2008). Corporate social responsibility should be emphasized here, as it is
important that luxury brand manufacturers are showing goodwill by contributing benefits to
the society. There is evidence that companies that show such involvement tend to have higher
corporate reputation in the public hence, able to gain competitive advantage over others
(Chitakornkijsil 2012; Gatti, Caruana and Snehota 2012). As a result, when luxury brand
companies are also taking ethical aspects into consideration, it will build an image in
consumers’ mind whereby these companies are helping to minimise social issues. Therefore,
as consumers, they should also show contribution to the society by supporting these luxury
products such as paying more for luxury branded products that are not made in sweatshops.
In the long run, luxury brand companies should consider building an image of strong ethical
values and social responsibility to win consumers over.
Results also show that consumers who have higher self-efficacy do not intend to purchase
luxury fashion apparel made in sweatshops, but willing to pay more for luxury fashion
apparel not made in sweatshops. To better increase consumers’ level of self-efficacy, it is
important to educate them about sweatshop issues and its negative impact on the society
(Armitage and Connor 2001). What is actually happening in countries where sweatshops are
commonly found (e.g. life story of people who are caught in sweatshops in less-developed
countries; pictures of how sweatshop products are made) should be revealed to the general
public through relevant social media (Paul 2008). These could be ingrained into the message
appeals on the advertisements. More so, other social policy initiatives can also be
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implemented. Policy makers should work closely with the government to constrict laws on
trading so that any unlawful trading within the country can be prohibited. On the other hand,
penalties should also be given to businesses that are found guilty for committing unlawful
trade. Through media disclosure and strict laws being implemented, unlawful business
operations such as sweatshops will be better controlled (Kang, Liu and Kim 2013). From the
exposure to what sweatshops are like and knowing that the government is contributing at
their best to minimise social issues would ultimately increase consumers’ self-efficacy to
boycott luxury brands that use sweatshops to manufacture their products or to boycott buying
products, consequently increase their willingness to support luxury fashion apparel that are
not made in sweatshops.
CONCLUDING COMMENTS
There are a number of limitations worthy of improvement and future research. The study was
conducted using mall intercept method, which may limit the populations that could be
reached. Those who may purchase may not be regular shoppers at a shopping mall but may
be in wholesale markets where sweatshop products are largely sold. As the study is a
snapshot of consumers in Australia, extensions to populations of other countries of different
socioeconomic groups which may produce different results.
There are possible extensions to this which is to focus on studying the long-term effects of
sweatshops for testing at a later stage to examine if the effects have changed. Further
exploration using qualitative approaches to examine consumer purchase behaviour of luxury
branded products may provide deeper insights. As this study is only looking at luxury brands
in general, therefore, looking at other product categories can also be considered. Further
studies regarding brand loyalty can also be tested in area such as “how sweatshops influence
brand loyal consumers” (e.g. will sweatshops sway away consumers’ brand loyalty or have
no effect on brand loyalty?). Other variables such as consumer guilt can be used as a potential
moderator for the different relationships.
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