Mapúa University

658 Muralla St., Intramuros, 1002 Manila

School of Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering

ME123L / A9
Mechanical Processes 1: Workshop Theory & Practice

Shop Exercise No. 1

BASIC WOOD WORKING TOOLS

MAGALLANES, Alissa C.

2012109632 Date Submitted: November 27, 2018

II - D

Engr. Sublime Carvajal SCORE

Instructor
TABLE OF CONTENTS

OBJECTIVES-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------3
INTRODUCTION--------------------------------------------------------------------------------3
LIST OF APPARATUS/MATERIALS------------------------------------------------------4
REFERENCE-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------15
I. OBJECTIVES

To be familiarized with wood working tools and how to be able to use it.

II. INTRODUCTION

Every trade has its tools, and woodworking is no different. Any

craftsman knows that the right tool for the project is critical in manufacturing
a quality end product in a timely manner. Hand tools get their power from your
muscles. They’re power tools, but not electrical power. Here is a pretty
comprehensive list of hand tools that every woodworker or cabinet maker
should think about having in his shop.
 CHISEL

An assortment of chisels should be part of every workbench. Chisels are not just

for wood carvers. Any woodworker will need chisels to clean out joints and saw
cuts. Look for chisels made of high-alloy carbon steel or chromium-vanadium
alloyed steel. Hardwood grips are best, especially if they have metal caps on
them. This will keep the end of the handle from becoming malformed when you
hammer on it. Most chisels are beveled on the 2 sides and on the cutting edge,
but specialty chisels may only be beveled at the cutting edge. This bevel will be at
20 to 25 degrees down the length of the blade on one side, and flat on the
backside. The blade will be between 4” and 7” long. Make sure you get chisels
with a grip that fits your hand. If the grip is too small, you won’t be able to hold
the chisel steady as you work. Be sure to use a mallet or wood hammer when you
work, so that you don’t destroy the head on your chisel. Keep track of the edge
caps, keep them sharp, and oil the metal now and then after you’ve used them,
and they should be good for years. If you don’t have the edge caps, get a roll to
keep them in. This will prevent them from bouncing around in your tool box
drawers and getting damaged. Using your chisels involves both hands. This
allows for power and control of the chisel as it pares away the wood. If you need
a little “oomph” behind the chisel, bump it with the heel of the off hand, or strike it
with a mallet. A claw hammer will damage the butt end of your chisel, eventually
splitting it if you abuse it too often.

The Block Plane

A block plane is a key to versatility in your woodwork. You can flatten a piece of
wood, add a curve to it, or square your work. Shape or chamfer your stock using a
block plane. Once you have a piece dovetailed, you can smooth the joint with
your block plane, rather than spend endless time sanding. Your plane can ease
the edges of a piece, taking the sharpness out of it. It is most important to make
sure the blade of the block plane is sharp. Use a little bit of oil on the sharpening
stone and hold the bevel flat against the stone. Raise the heel a little, and hone it.
It will form a burr, but that’s OK. Just turn the blade over and rub it on the stone
on the flat side. It will remove the burr. A cap screw holds the blade in place, and
this is where you adjust the depth of plane you want to cut. If you’re performing
fine work, you’ll measure the blade at about 1/64”. For more general work, you’ll
go with as much as 1/16”. Roll the pressure from the back of the plane to the
front as you complete the cut so that you don’t end up with arching. If you’re
going to plane end grain, plain both ends toward the middle to keep from tearing
up the outside edge.

Ball-peen Hammer

Though the process of peening (surface hardening by impact) has become rarer in metal
fabrication, the ball-peen hammer remains useful for many tasks, such as striking punches
and chisels (usually performed with the flat face of the hammer). The peening face is useful for
rounding off edges of metal pins and fasteners, such as rivets. The ball face of the hammer can also
be used to make gaskets for mating surfaces. A suitable gasket material is held over the surface
where a corresponding gasket is desired, and the operator will lightly tap around the edges of the
mating surface to perforate the gasket material.

Mallet

A mallet is a kind of hammer, often made of rubber or sometimes wood, that is smaller than a
maul or beetle, and usually has a relatively large head. The term is descriptive of the overall size and
proportions of the tool, and not the materials it may be made of, though most mallets have striking
faces that are softer than steel.
Mallets are used in various industries, such as upholstery work, and a variety of other general
purposes. It is a tool of preference for wood workers using chisels with plastic, metal, or wooden
handles, as they give a softened strike with a positive drive. It is the most commonly used mallet.

Wooden mallets are usually used in carpentry to knock wooden pieces together, or to drive dowels
or chisels. A wooden mallet will not deform the striking end of a metal tool, as most metal hammers
would. It is also used to reduce the force driving the cutting edge of a chisel, giving better control.
Hardwood mallets are also used to knock in cricket bats.

Steel Ruler

Steel scale in tempered stainless steel, with matt chromeplated surface for anti-
glare reading. Graduated in millimetres along the upper edge and half-millimetres
along the lower edge. The reverse side is blank.
 Made from tempered stainless steel for extra durability.
 The surface is matt chrome-plated for anti-glare and more accurate reading.
 Graduated in millimetres along the upper edge, half-millimetres along the lower edge and with
decimetre figures in red.
 Tolerance ±0.3 mm/m.

Rip Saw

A rip saw is a wood saw that is specially designed for making a rip cut, cut made parallel to the
direction of the wood grain
The cutting edge of each tooth has a flat front edge and it is angled backward by about 8°, in
contrast to a crosscut cut which has teeth angled backward by about 15°. [1]
Another difference from the crosscut saw is that the edges are sharpened at right angles to the
cutting plane, forming chisel-like cutting surfaces, whereas the crosscut saw is sharpened at an
angle, so that each tooth has a knife-like cutting point in contact with the wood. [1] This design keeps
the saw from following grain lines, which could curve the path of the saw: by acting like a chisel, the
saw can more easily cut across deviating grain lines, which is necessary if a straight cut is to be
achieved. This feature enables the orthogonal cutting edge to efficiently transport wood-chips from
the kerf, allowing subsequent teeth to perform a more effective cut.
It is possible to see this material removal mechanism in action by analyzing frame by frame footage
of the cutting process.[2] Rip saws typically have 4–10 teeth per inch, making them relatively coarse.
All sawmills use rip saws of various types including the circular saw and band saw. Historically
sawmills used one or more reciprocating saws more specifically known as an "up-and-down" or
"upright saw" which are of two basic types, the frame saw or a muley (mulay) saw[3] which is similar
to the hand powered pit saw. Some sawmills also use crosscut saws to cut boards and planks to
length.

Back Saw

A backsaw is any hand saw which has a stiffening rib on the edge opposite the cutting edge,
enabling better control and more precise cutting than with other types of saws. Backsaws are
normally used in woodworking for precise work, such as cutting dovetails, mitres,
or tendons in cabinetry and joinery. Because of the stiffening rib, backsaws are limited in the depth
to which they can cut. Backsaws usually have relatively closely spaced teeth, often with little or no
set. The work of a backsaw requires a thin, stiff blade. These two immediately incompatible
requirements are resolved by swaging (and perhaps, spot welding) a stiffening cap over the length of
the top edge of the blade. This thickening of the blade is the back and is generally made from some
kind of metal, usually brass or steel. The stiffening back is carried through into the handle so that the
blade does not bend between the two. The thickening of the back limits the depth to which the saw
can cut but this is generally not a limitation in their typical uses.

Compass Saw

A compass saw is a type of saw used for making curved cuts known as compasses, particularly in
confined spaces where a larger saw would not fit. Compass saws have a narrow, tapered blade
usually ending in a sharp point, typically with eight to ten teeth per inch, but up to twenty teeth per
inch for harder materials and as few as five teeth per inch for softer materials. They have a curved,
light "pistol grip" handle, designed for work in confined spaces and overhead.
The blade of a compass saw may be fixed or retractable, and are typically interchangeable. Partially
retracting the blade can prevent flexing and breaking when cutting harder materials.
Compass saws are suitable for cutting softer woods, plastic, drywall, and non-ferrous metals. The
pointed tip of the blade can be used to penetrate softer materials without the need for a pilot hole

Bench Vise

A bench vise is a mechanical apparatus used to secure an object to allow work to be performed on
it. Vises have two parallel jaws, one fixed and the other movable, threaded in and out by
a screw and lever. Woodworking vises are attached to a workbench, typically flush with its work
surface. Their jaws are made of wood or metal, the latter usually faced with wood, called cheeks, to
avoid marring the work.[1] The movable jaw may include a retractable dog to hold work against
a bench dog.
"Quick-release" vises employ a split nut that allows the screw to engage or disengage with a half-
turn of the handle. When disengaged the movable jaw may be moved in or out throughout its entire
range of motion, vastly speeding up the process of adjustment. Common thread types
are Acme and buttress.
Traditional workbench vises are commonly either face vises, attached to the front of the workbench,
near the left end (for a right-handed worker) or end vises, attached to or forming part of the right end
of the bench.
One common variety of face vise is the leg vise, which has a long extension down to the floor, with a
provision to adjust the spacing of the bottom of the leg, to keep the clamping surfaces of the jaws
approximately parallel, even though the work to be clamped may be of various 

Flat File

A file is a tool used to remove fine amounts of material from a workpiece. It is common

in woodworking, metalworking, and other similar trade and hobby tasks. Most are hand tools, made
of a case hardened steel bar of rectangular, square, triangular, or round cross-section, with one or
more surfaces cut with sharp, generally parallel teeth. A narrow, pointed tang is common at one end,
to which a handle may be fitted.
 Rasp File

A rasp is coarse form of file used for coarsely shaping wood or other material. Typically a hand tool,
it consists of a generally tapered rectangular, round, or half-round sectioned bar of case
hardened steel with distinct, individually cut teeth. A narrow, pointed tang is common at one end, to
which a handle may be fitted.
asps come in a variety of shapes - rectangular, round, and half-round - and vary in coarseness from
finest, "cabinet", to most aggressive, "wood". Farriers, for example, commonly use rasps to remove
excess wall from a horse's hoof. They are also used in woodworking for rapidly removing material,
and are easier to control than a drawknife. The rough surfaces they leave may be smoothed with
finer tools, such as single or double-cut files. Rasps are used in shaping alabaster. Saws and chisels
are used to rough out alabaster work.

III. REFERENCES

https://www.wagnermeters.com/moisture-meters/wood-info/tools-products/top-40-
woodworking-tools/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball-peen_hammerCement Manufacturing. (n.d.).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mallet
http://www.hultafors.com/hand-tools/other-measuring-tools/steel-ruler/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_saw
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backsaw
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compass_saw
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vise
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_(tool)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rasp