Scouring:

Definition: 
The term ‘scouring’ applies to the removal of impurities such as oils, was, gums, soluble
impurities and sold dirt commonly found in textile material and produce a hydrophilic and clean
cloth. 
Textile scouring is a process in which the fabric is treated with alkali at room temperature or at
suitable higher temperatures and by this process oil, fat, wax and other natural and added
impurities are removed. Absorbency of the fabric also increases a greater extent in this process
i.e. makes the fabrics highly hydrophilic. It also helps to clean textile material by adding alkali. It
is a vital process of wet processing.

Objectives of Scouring:
1. To remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character as
completely as possible
2. To increase absorbency of textile material
3. To leave the fabric in a highly hydrophilic condition without undergoing chemical or
physical damage significantly
4. To remove natural fat, wax and oil materials containing in the fabrics without damaging
the fibers.
5. To accelerate dye and chemical absorption of the fabrics.
6. To improve the handle of the goods.
7. To remove natural color and make the fabric for next process.
8. To remove non-cellulosic substance in case of cotton.
.
Scouring process depends on:
1. The type of cotton
2. The color of cotton
3. The cleanliness of cotton
4. The twist and count of the yarn
5. The construction of the fabric.
Impurities of raw cotton: 

Raw cotton contains a wide range of organic and mineral impurities in such amount that vary
according to the origin of the cotton.
1. Pectins 0.7-1.2%
2. Waxes 0.4-1%
3. Proteins 1.1-1.9%
4. Inorganic components 0.7-1.6%
5. Other organic compounds 0.5-1.0%
Changes occurring of cotton fiber during scouring process:
1. Saponifiable oils and free fatty acids are converted into soaps.
2. Pectins and pactoses are converted into soluble salts of pectic acid.
3. Proteins are degraded to simple soluble amino acids or ammonia.
4. Mineral matters are mostly dissolved.
5. Un -saponifiable oils are emulsified by the saponifiable matters.
6. Adventitious dirt are removed and forms in suspension by the soap.
7. Residual sizing materials are broken down into soluble products.

Scouring Process: 
There are two types of textile scouring processes – 
1. Conventional scouring process:
1. Kier boiling (discontinuous) scouring.
2. Scouring in J or L box (continuous).
3. Exhaust method

2. Special scouring process:

1. Solvent scouring process.
2. Vapor lock scouring process.

Kier Boiling (discontinuous) Scouring: 

General recipe for scouring for Kier boiler process:
1. Alkali (NaOH) - 2 to 5 gm per litre.
2. Soda ash - x gm per litre to adjust PH (PH required for scouring is 10.5).
3. Wetting agent - 1 gm per litre.
4. Sequestering agent - 1 gm per litre.
5. Detergent - 1 to 2 gm per litre.
6. Temperature - 100 to 1250c.
7. Time - 6 hours (close vessel) and 8 hours (open vessel)
8. M : L - 1 : 10
N.B. Water level should keep 6 to 8” above the fabric. 
Machine capacity may be from 1ton to 5 ton. 

Description and Working Principle of Scouring Process: 

Kier boiler is a long mild steel or cast iron cylindrical vessel provided with two perforated tube
sheets (disc with a number of holes). One is placed at the bottom and another is top. These discs
are connected by a number of tunes which carry the liquor from the bottom compartment to the
upper one. In the middle compartment steam is passed. Thus the tubes carrying the liquor are
surrounded by steam which heats them. 
The hot liquor from the multi tubular heater is sprayed over the cloth, packed in the kier, through
a hollow perforated ring. The liquid passes slowly over the packed cloth, collects below the false
bottom, from where it is pumped into the auxiliary heater by a centrifugal pump and the cycle
repeats. 
Precaution:
1. Kier boiler should be cleaned.
2. Material should be packed evenly.
3. Complete immersion of the fabric need.
4. After boiling the liquor should be removed in absence of water.
5. Before starting all the joining parts should be checked.
6. Fabric should always keep under scouring solution.
Scouring reaction: 
Raw cotton is hydrophobic because, fiber surface is protected with cuticle and cuticle consists of
oil, fat, wax. These are high molecular fatty acid i.e. steeric acid (CnH 2n+1COOH, where n:17-
35). If NaOH (alkali) reacts with steeric acid, cuticle is removed from fiber surface and regular
cellulose chains are opened and the fiber became hydrophilic. 

CnH2n+1COOH +NaOH = CnH2n+1COONa + H2O 

Chemical used: 
Caustic soda and soda ash are mainly used for scouring of cotton fabric. There are also used
surfactants, detergents, chelating agents, sodium silicates, builder, solvent etc. 
Auxiliary chemicals:
1. Leveling agent
2. Tinting agent
3. Wetting agent
4. Solvent

Form of scouring: 
Yarn and fabric scouring is done in different form. They are: 
Yarn scouring:
1. Hank form
2. Package form
3. Continuous sheet warp form
Fabric scouring:
1. Open width form:
a. Jigger
b. Padbatch,
c. Progressive jigger
2. Rope form:
a. Kier
b. Washer
Scouring process: 
Generally 4 types of way scouring process are done. They are:
1. Batch process
2. Semi-continuous process
3. Discontinuous process
4. Modern process

Mechanism of removal of impurities in scouring process: 

The action of alkaline scouring agent is to saponify any residual oils, to neutralize carboxylic
acids, to solubilise any sizing materials and to cause dispersion of naturally occuring impurities
in natural fibers. 

Techniques for removing natural impurities of cotton during scouring: 

Typical scouring recipe of cotton, jute and polyester:

Souring process in textile: 

The treatment by which the fabric, after processing with alkali or scouring is treated with
hydrochloric acid (HCl) or dilute sulfuric acid (H2SO4) for removing alkali or neutralization of
alkali is called souring. Souring process is done after scouring. Because scouring process is done
by alkali, so after scouring process it is necessary to neutralize the fabric for next process

Enzyme Scouring of Cotton Textiles:

Yarns and fabrics may be dirty, contain natural waxes or oils, or have been treated with size or
lubricants used in spinning, weaving or knitting. These can all interfere with dyeing, often
leading to non-level results. Scouring is a large topic, and the process used depends on the fibre
type and its condition. “True” scouring of grease cellulosic fabrics is typically done
after desizing, at the boil or at higher temperature in pressure vessels, with as much as 10 grams
sodium hydroxide per liter of water, plus surfactants, and the process may last for several hours.
Commercial scouring of wool may use solvents, similar to dry cleaning, as part of the process.
White fabrics sold at retail have normally be scoured at the mill; “natural” fabrics usually have
not (some “natural” fabrics have been scoured but not bleached).
Art dyeing literature often refers to what amounts to laundering as scouring. This is inadequate
for grease fabrics, but often quite acceptable for “white goods”. A long machine wash with the
hottest water possible, about a gram of soda ash per liter of water (about a teaspoon per gallon)
and some (preferably optical brightener free) detergent, followed by two rinses is usually
acceptable. Sodium hexametaphosphate may be helpful if the water is hard. Woven white cottons
often contain starch that will not be removed by such a limited process.

Alkaline Enzyme Scouring of Cotton Textiles:

The invention relates to a process for treatment of cellulosic material, as for example, knitted or
woven cotton fabric, comprising the steps of preparing an aqueous enzyme solution comprising
pectinase, treating the cellulosic material with an effective amount of the aqueous enzyme
solution under alkaline scouring conditions; e.g., pH of 9 or above and a temperature of 50° C. or
above, in a low calcium or calcium-free environment, yielding a modification of the cellulosic
material such that exhibits an enhanced respond to a subsequent chemical treatment. 

Traditionally, cotton scouring has required the use of harsh alkaline chemicals (caustic), extreme
temperatures and large volumes of water. Expenses include not only the cost of the caustic and
energy, but also the cost of treating waste water to remove residual caustic and by-products. 

Today, textile producers have a new, effective alternative to chemical scouring with the advent
of the Cottonase™ enzyme. This novel enzyme not only cleans better than chemical scouring,
but also greatly reduces the need for extensive waste water treatment and energy consumption.
The Cottonase™ enzyme is a versatile, economically viable and environmentally friendly
alternative to chemical scouring in cotton preparation.

How to Scouring Textile Fabric: 

1. Simply wash your fabric, this includes PFD fabric, in the washing machine in hot water
with Soda Ash. Do not add any fabric softeners to the wash. If you must dry your fabric do
so without any fabric softener sheets
2. Using an large enamel or stainless steel pot, fill the pot at least half full and place one
ounce of soda ash into the pot per pound of cotton or linen fabric/fiber.
3. Place fabric into water, swish it around using a stainless steel spoon.
4. Bring water to a boil!!!
5. Adjust heat to a low boil/hard simmer and allow to boil for two hours. stir the fabric
every 15 minutes or so t make sure that the fabric is being adequately scoured
6. After two hours remove from heat source, allow fabric to cool down until the fabric is at
room temperature. 
7. Remove the fabric from the water and rinse

Scouring in the J Box: 

In continuous process J-box is used for cotton scouring. It looks like English letter j. so it is
called J-box. In J-box cotton is scoured open width and rope form. 

General recipe of scouring in J-box:

1. Alkali : 4 to 6 g/l
2. Wetting agent : 4 to 5 g/l
3. Impregnation temperature : 70to 800c.
4. Impregnation time : 40 to 90 second.
5. Pick up : 90 to 100%
6. Storing time in J box : 1 to 2 hours.
7. Temperature in J box : 98to 1020c.
Rinsing with water and finally hot wash (not less than 800c) and cold wash is done. 

Description and Working Principle: 

The scouring process in J-box can be divided into four units. They are 

1. Impregnation box
2.  Pre-heater.
3. J-box. 
4.Washing unit. 
1. Impregnation box: 

Fabric is passed into impregnation box in open width form and through the guide rollers and
padded by caustic soda and wetting agent. The temperature for impregnation should be
maintained at 70 to 800c for about 40 to 90 seconds. Then the fabric is squeezed and passed
on to the next unit. 
2. Pre heater: 

In this unit the material is passed to the thermostatic controlling system at temperature of
about 90 to 1000c for about 30 seconds. Then the material is passed to the J-box .
3. J-box: 

The capacity of normal J-box is about 12000 to 15000 pounds. The material from the J-box is
passed to the washing unit passing through squeeze roller. 

3.Washing unit: 

The water soluble impurities or products that were left on the material are removed by
washing. First of all the materials are washed in hot water at the temperature above 800c,
then it is cold washed and finally dried. 
Advantage: 
1. The process is a continuous process. So consumes less time. 
2. The process is economical. 

Disadvantage: 
1. The result of scouring is not good as compared with kier boiler. 
2. The process is not hydrophilic as kier boiler. 
 Estimation or Scouring Effect: 

The scouring effect can be estimated by carrying out one of the following tests-
1. Measurement of weight loss.
2. Test of (absorbency) Immersion test.
3. Drop test.
4. Wicking or column test.

Assessment of Scouring:/Absorbency Test: Drop/Spot Test:

In a pipette a solution of0.1% direct red or Congo red is taken and droplet of solution put on the
different places of the fabric. Then the absorption time of the fabric is observed. The standard
time for the absorption of one drop of solution is 0.5-0.8 sec up to 1 sec. 

Difference between Scouring and Souring:

Types of scouring treatments :

1. Scouring By Chemicals Means
2. Bio scouring or scouring with Enzymes

Scouring of Cotton: 

In the scouring process the cotton cellulose material is treated with a solution containing alkali
( soda ash and caustic soda), an anionic and/or nonionic detergent, a wetting agent, a complexing
and sequestering for the removal of metal ions and polyacrylates or polyphosphonates as special
surfactant free dispersing agents, at high temperature. The scouring operation was conventionally
done in kier machines and hence the process was called kier boiling, but now a days the scouring
is done mostly in the dyeing machines itself as a part of combined or single operation such as
scouring and bleaching.
1. Saponification of fats into water soluble soap and water miscible glycerin under alkaline
conditions.
2. Hydrolysis of proteins into water soluble degradation products.
3. Dissolution of amino compounds.
4. Solubilizing of pectose and pectins by converting into soluble salts.
5. Dissolution and extraction of mineral matter.
6. Emulsification and solubilisation of natural oils and waxes.
7. Removal and dispersion of dirt particles and kitty by the action of alkali and detergent.
The material after scouring is more absorbent, free from natural impurities and coloring matter.
This treatment can be carried out on filaments, yarns and fabrics. 

Saponification: 
When a grey cotton fabric is dipped in water the oil present in the size will not allow the water to
spread on the fibre. i.e, the oil resists the wetting of the fabric by water. For further processes
such as bleaching, dyeing, printing etc. to be effective, it is essential for the fabric to wet easily
when treated with solutions of chemicals and dyestuffs. In other words, the cloth should be
highly absorbent towards water. To achieve this objective, the oil has to be removed from the
fabric. Also China clay (of the size) is firmly fixed on the grey cloth with the help of oils and
waxes which act as binding agent for the clay particles. Thus it is necessary to remove the oils
and waxes for removing the China clay from the fabric.

Scouring of Silk: 
The scouring of pure silk is a degumming process used to remove sericin (silk gum) from fibroin
floss. Sericin is the gummy element which keeps together the fibroin floss and gives the silk a
hard hand and dull appearance. It is carried out on yarn, on dyed yarn, piece-dyed fabric or on
products ready for printing. The treatment, which causes a loss of weight ranging between 24
and 28%, gives the degummed silk a lustrous appearance and a soft hand; the treatment is carried
out with soapy solutions or with buffer dissolving agents. It is also possible to use enzymes
(protease), which hydrolyses sericin. 

Scouring of Wool:
 On wool, the scouring process removes oils and contaminants accumulated during upstream
processing steps and can be carried out on slivers, yarns and fabrics with solutions containing
sodium carbonate with soap or ammonia, or anionic and non-ionic surfactants, which carry out
softer washing to avoid any damage to the fibers.
 

Scouring of Synthetics: 
The scouring process applied to synthetic fibres removes oils, lubricants and anti-static
substances, dust, contaminants and can be carried out on yarns and fabrics (when warp yarns
have been bonded, the treatment is called deboning). It is carried out by means of surfactants,
detergents and emulsifying agents. 

Scouring of Colored Woven Goods: 

In certain type of fabrics, dyed yarns are used for warp and weft along with white yarns to
produce colored woven designs. Thus colored borders of saris and dhotis, colored check effects,
shirting’s etc. are woven using white and dyed yarns. These are known as colored woven goods
and the dyed yarns are known as colored effect threads. Since the woven cloth has to undergo
rigorous conditions of scouring and bleaching, a restriction is imposed on the selection of dyes
for dyeing these yarns.
For example, if direct dues are used for the purpose, bleeding of the dye from the yarns takes
place during scouring with the consequent staining of the white yarns present in the fabric being
scoured. When the scoured fabric is subsequently bleached with sodium hypochlorite solutions,
most of the direct dyes are destroyed by the bleaching agent. If Sulphur dyes or reactive dyes are
dyed for producing such colored threads, sodium hypochlorite destroys most of these dyes.

Therefore, these classes of byes are not suitable for the purpose. Generally, vat and azoic colors
are dyed on such yarns. Vat dyes re superior to azoic in this respect. These liquor, neither are
they destroyed by the subsequent bleaching. 

Bio-Scouring: 
Bio-scouring with pectinases(enzyme) have shown promise in replacing the traditional alkaline
scouring treatment. Some auxiliaries’ suppliers have introduced an enzymatic process to remove
hydrophobic and other non-cellulosic components from cotton. The new bio-scouring process
operates at mils pH conditions over a broad temperature range and can be applied using
equipment such as jet machines. It is claimed that, due to a better bleach ability of enzyme-
scoured textiles, bleaching con be carried out with reduced amounts of bleaching chemicals and
auxiliaries.
Bio-scouring enzymes actually make the substrate more hydrophilic (which could explain better
bleach ability), but they are not able to destroy wax and seeds which are therefore removed in the
subsequent bleaching process. There is no need for the use of caustic soda in enzymatic scouring.
So this process reduced pollution loads, high TDS, BOD and COD in the effluent.