THE POOL BOOK

"A Complete Guide to the Construction &

Operation of Swimming Pools"

Copyright © Davis & Shirtliff 2009

 INDEX
Page
1. NEW POOL INSTALLATION 1
1.1 Siting 1
1.2 Shape & Sizing 2
1.3 Construction & Finish 5
1.4 Filtration Equipment 5
1.5 Circulation Arrangements 6
1.6 Lighting 9
1.7 Heating 9
2. POOL OPERATION & MAINTENANCE 11
2.1 Circulation Systems 11
2.1.1 General Arrangement 11
2.1.2 General Operating Procedures 11
2.1.3 Skimmers (Freeboard Pools) 11
2.1.4 Balance Tank Operation (Decklevel Pools) 12
2.1.5 Vacuum 12
2.2 Filters 13
2.2.1 General Operation 13
2.2.2 Multi-Port Valve Operation 13
2.3 Pumps 16
3. CHEMICAL DOSAGE 17
3.1 PH Balance 17
3.1.1 High pH Adjustment (above 7.6) 18
3.1.2 Low pH Adjustment (below 7.2) 18
3.2 Sanitation & Removal of Algae & Bacteria 19
3.2.1 Chlorination 19
3.2.2 Salt Water Purifiers 21
3.2.3 Ionization 21
3.2.4 Algaecide 21
3.3Flocculation 22
3.4 stabilizer 22
3.5 Anti-stain 23
4. HEATING 24
4.1 Under Surround Heating 24
4.2 Electric Heaters 25
4.3 Solar Heaters 25
5. CLEANING EQUIPMENT 26
6. TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE 27
6.1 Pool Water Green 27
6.2 Pool Water Cloudiness 27
6.3 Coloured Water 27
6.4 Pump Failure 28
6.5 Faulty Filter 28
7. SAFETY 29
 PREFACE

A sparkling, well designed swimming pool is a major asset to

any property. It provides a great deal of pleasure and also
adds capital value, though to optimize the benefits it must be
attractive, ergonomic and easy to operate. In both the
construction and operation there are many factors to
consider if these objectives are to be met and so this booklet
has been specially prepared to help developers and owners
ensure that their pool is built and maintained to the highest
standard. The contents are based on Davis & Shirtliff's
extensive experience in the pool industry, the company today
offering the widest range of pool equipment and accessories
available in the EA region, all marketed under the Dayliff
brand. By using quality Dayliff equipment and following the
suggestions given in this booklet an enjoyable, sparkling
clean and trouble free pool is assured at all times.
 1. NEW POOL CONSTRUCTION

1.1 SITING
The location of a pool is often dictated by the physical conditions on site,
though if this is not the case major considerations are:-
! The pool should harmonize as effectively as possible with the rest of
the development. This is of great importance as a pool is a feature as
well as a utility and effective integration into the development can add
considerable aesthetic appeal as well as enhancing a property's
value. Unless there are specific reasons a pool should never be
isolated.
! It must have as much direct sunlight on it as possible, especially
between 10am and 4pm
! It should not be situated close to trees.
Another very important consideration of siting is top-level setting. Often this
is dictated by the adjacent buildings (e.g. the pool should be at verandah
level), though frequently it will be set independently. Before final setting it is
vital to take levels (as falls over even short distances can be deceptive) and
then decide what the optimal level is. Important considerations are that the
pool should be well founded at all corners and no corner should protrude
too much above the prevailing ground level or else the site will be difficult to
landscape. As a general rule it is best to keep the highest corner no more
than 60cms above ground level.

ORIGINAL GROUND LEVEL

BACKFILL

Max 60cmss

EXCAVATE

FIGURE 1 - POOL LEVELLING

1
1.2 SHAPE & SIZING
The most common shape is rectangular (a length: width ratio 2:1 is
aesthetically preferable), the reason being that from a functional aspect a
rectangular shape is the most efficient and is also best suited for exercise
swimming. This basic shape can be softened with rounded corners, which
also adds strength and makes cleaning easier.
Though rectangular is the most common shape, a popular alternative is a
variation on the rectangular theme with, for example, an indent for steps or
a curve on one wall. Other options are freeform pools, kidneys and ovals,
although very often the nature of these shapes can make exercise swimming
difficult. As many people like to use a pool for exercise this is an important
point to consider and whatever the shape it is important that two parallel
walls on the ends are included. A selection of some popular shapes is
shown below, though of course alternatives are only limited by the
imagination:-

KIDNEY WITH STEPS KIDNEY MARIDADI

RADIUS ROUNDED RECTANGULAR RECTANGULAR

OVAL ROUNDED END GEOMETRIC

CHAMFERED CURVED EIGHT

FIGURE 2 - POOL SHAPES

2
Another important consideration is positioning of the steps, the options
being either tubular or built-in. Built-in tend to be more practical as they
harmonise better with the surroundings and are easier to use, especially for
older people, though it is preferable not to build them into the pools ends
where they can interfere with swimming. Generally they should be located
on the pool sides, the middle being the most accessible, and also the step
profiles should be different from normal steps to account for the water
buoyancy. A recommended profile is shown in Fig 3.
A common mistake in pools projects is that they are oversized, either in area
or in volume (i.e. depth). Oversized pools are unnecessarily expensive to
build, expensive to maintain and, if overly deep, unnecessarily cold and
economically inefficient. Correct sizing is therefore important, with areas
2 2
from 50m - 80m being suitable for residential pools and up to 125m²
being adequate for smaller institutions including hotels, clubs, schools etc.
Large pools of up to 350m² are only necessary for large hotels with a high
anticipated bathing load (e.g. at the Coast) and institutions with a
requirement for competitions.

Correct specification of depth is of great importance, the basic rule being

the shallower the better as volume costs money. Shallow end minimum
depth (excluding the free board) should be about 1m, this being adequate
for swimming, sloping to 1.5m, the maximum depth that an average adult
can stand in. Normally about half the pool area is given to shallow end as
this tends to be the area that bathers mostly use. Maximum deep end depth
depends upon whether a springboard is required. If it is a water depth of
about 2.5m is necessary. If no springboard is to be fitted many pools are
built with a ‘shallow’ profile which is no more than 1.7m at its deepest and
with a continuous slope throughout. This arrangement has the advantage
of reducing water volume by up to 20% resulting in lower construction and
running costs and higher pool temperatures.

3
DEEP PROFILE

WATER LEVEL

1200
1700 1700
2500

NB DEDUCT 150mm FOR

DECK LEVEL POOLS

STANDARD PROFILE

WATER LEVEL

1200
1700 1850

STEP PROFILE 400

150

250 250

250 250
1200

250 250

300

FIGURE 3 - FLOOR AND STEP PROFILES

4
1.3 CONSTRUCTION & FINISH
Reinforced masonry with an inner concrete liner is the accepted standard
construction method for residential pools, though a homogenous
reinforced structure is sometimes used for larger projects. However, as
applied loads and hence stresses are low in swimming pools and the
structure is not safely critical the reinforced masonry specification is quite
satisfactory. The key issue is that the structure doesn't leak, the principal
(some say only!) requirement to achieve this being a firm foundation.
Preferably the pool floor blinding should be laid on undisturbed ground
earth, which means that the excavation needs to be carefully measured
though if the pool floor is to be laid on backfill it must be well compacted
and preferably a foundation walling should be provided.
The most common internal finish is ceramic tile or mosaic, colour being a
matter of taste though white and blue tends to be the most popular, often
with a coloured strip at water level or some pattern design on the floor. It is
important that the tile finish is laid on a waterproofed plaster layer with a
waterproofed grout then being applied between the tiles, which then
creates an effective final seal.
The final and sometimes overlooked aspect of the pool finish is the edging
and surround. This is most important as it is often the most prominent aspect
of the pool and creates the general impression of the quality of the project;
it is therefore essential that whatever finish is chosen it blends with the rest of
the pool area and is well executed. There are a large number of finishes
available, freeboard type pools either having a raised collar around the
perimeter (often finished in brick or coloured tiles) or a flat surround, which
finishes at the pool edge. This can be tile or often a mazeras or natural stone
dressing is used which can be most effective. The principle factor of choice
tends to be compatibility with the existing buildings and, of course, personal
preference.

1.4 FILTRATION EQUIPMENT

The universally used filter is the pressure sand type being effective, simple to
operate and cost effective. They are available in various sizes and are
specified according to the flow rate required for the pool, standard practice
being to allow for a complete water turnover in a period of 4-8 hours. Four

5
hours should be used in institutional pools with heavy bathing loads
(principally at the coast) while 8 hours is sufficient for small domestic pools
with lighter bathing loads. Pumps are specified to match the filter rating.
Filter manufacturers like Davis & Shirtliff will recommend a suitable filter for
a given flow rate, sizing being determined by 'filter velocity' (flow
rate/surface area). For higher rate filters up to 50m/hr is considered as
satisfactory, though for high bathing loads it is preferable to reduce velocity
to 30-40m/hr. The constraint is that the higher the velocity the greater the
frequency of backwash required and also the media can deteriorate more
quickly. This results in reduced filtration efficiency. A table detailing filter
and pump selection operations is given below:-

Filter Selection
RATED POOL CAPACITY (LITRES)* SUGGESTED
PUMP OPTIONS
MAX CIRCULATION PIPING
MODEL FLOW
ESPA/ HP QUALITY HP LIGHT NORMAL HEAVY SUCTION DELIVERY NO. STD
(M3) DAVEY USE USE USE INLETS

DX 500 10 SILEN 50 0.8 QP3 1.0 100000 80000 60000 1.5” 1.25” 2

DX 600 14 SILEN 75 1.1 QP4 1.1 140000 115000 85000 2” 1.5” 2

DX 750 22 SILEN 150 1.5 QP6 1.5 200000 170000 130000 2.5” 2” 3

SILEN 200
DX 800 25 1.6 QP8 2.0 250000 115000 150000 2.5” 2” 3
PM350
SILEN 300 - -
DX 900 32 2.4 300000 170000 180000 3” 2.5” 4
PM450

1.5 CIRCULATION ARRANGEMENTS

Two types of circulation arrangement are available, ‘Decklevel’ and the
more traditional ‘Freeboard’. The latter has a 15cms or so upstand
between the water surface and the top of the pool and skimmers are used
for keeping debris off the water surface. In the ‘Decklevel’ design the water
surface overflows the top level of the pool into peripheral drains. The
‘Decklevel’ system is far more effective at removing surface debris and also
has, too many, aesthetic benefits. However, due to the cost of the channel,
which has to be covered with a grille, it is more expensive. Horizon pools
are also becoming increasingly popular, these being a variation of the
‘Decklevel’ type with water usually overflowing on one wall into an adjacent

6
channel that also acts as the balance tank. The other walls feature an
upstand.
The correct flow of water in the pool is essential if water quality is to be
maintained, it being important to ensure that the total pool water volume is
circulated through the filter system and stagnant areas are avoided.
Effective arrangements for the inlet piping is therefore important, length
flow for Freeboard pools and crossflow for ‘Decklevel’ pools being the most
efficient with Freeboard inlets being at water level to enhance skimmer
operation and ‘Decklevel’ inlets about 75cms below the surface. Also of
note is that the majority of debris are concentrated in the upper water levels
so removal of water at the surface level is vital. Generally water circulation
proportions should be approximately 50% from the surface and 50% from
the main drain.

WATER LEVEL
GRILLE

150mm

SKIMMER
CHANNEL
FREE BOARD DECK LEVEL

FIGURE 4 - POOL EDGE ARRANGEMENTS

From a plumbing point of view there is little difference between the systems,
both utilizing a deep end main drain which is the principal draw off point for
the pump, the difference is that the ‘Freeboard’ system has skimmers which
are connected directly to the pump suction, while the ‘Decklevel’ system
must incorporate a balance tank into which the peripheral channels drain.
This water is then drawn from the balance tank by the circulation pump. Of
note is to ensure adequate balance tank volume, rule of thumb being to
allow 5-7cm depth across the pool area. Typical circulation arrangements
are shown overleaf:-

7
FREE BOARD

MAIN DRAIN

SKIMMERS

INLETS
POOL
VACUUM

VALVE
CHAMBER
PUMP

FILTER

WASTE

DECK LEVEL

MAN
DRAIN INLETS

VACUUM

DECK LEVEL
CHANNEL

NRV
BALANCE
TANK

PUMP

FILTER

WASTE

FIGURE 5 - CIRCULATION ARRANGEMENTS

All pools should be fitted with vacuum points in the middle of the length wall
and about 30cms below water level to which suction type vacuum cleaners
can be attached. These types of cleaners use the re-circulation pump for
vacuuming and are both effective and cheap. The facility to vacuum is very
important and it must be specified during construction. If no vacuum point

8
is fitted it is often possible to attach a vacuum to the skimmers, this
depending upon skimmer design.

1.6 LIGHTING
In addition to the primary function of bathing a pool is also a feature which
can be considerably enhanced at night by the use of under water lighting.
Specially designed pool lights are available and it is strongly recommended
that only approved types are fitted or else electrical shock can result. Safety
standards specify that all pool lighting should be low voltage (12V) and the
supplier will provide a stepdown transformer for this. Also note that higher
electrical current will result from the low voltage and cable size will need to
be specified accordingly. A qualified electrician should be used for advice
on the lighting installation.
Most lights are provided with a niche that is cast into the pool wall and the
lamp unit is then fixed to it, though flat types are available for post
construction installation. The separate lamp unit allows for bulb
replacement without emptying the pool. Basic light types are the
established sealed beam models available in 300W and 125W sizes and
the newer LED types, some models offering a colour changing feature. LED
lights also have the benefit of using much less power absorbing between
25-50W which reduces power consumption and cable size.
Lights should be installed about 75cm below the pool water surface and a
2
general rule is to fit one light every 20-25m of pool surface area.

1.7 HEATING
A very important aspect of pool design is that in addition to the aesthetic
considerations a pool has to be used and in order to maximize enjoyment it
should not be too cold! Often the emphasis is placed on the aesthetics; the
utility aspect is forgotten resulting in a pool that is seldom used. When
swimming there is nothing more important than the water temperature and
certain steps can be taken to ensure it is maximized:-
! Principal energy for heating is solar irradiation from the sun, a given
amount of which is available per unit area. It is therefore vital to
maximize the area/volume ratio and keep water depth to a minimum.
Suggested depths are discussed in section 1.3.

9
 ! Pools should be shaded as little as possible between the hours of
10am and 4pm. This is very important when siting.
! Solar is the preferable heating solution as generally the operating cost
of fossil fuel heating is high. Options include panel type solar
collectors, which are economical and the most effective though
require a large area for panel mounting. Effect is determined by the
2
area of panels installed, the recommendation being one 3.6m panel
3
for each 10m of pool volume. Another common method is solar
under surround heating, which incorporates an array of piping under
the pool surround. During re-circulation the water is pumped through
these pipes and collects heat from the concrete. A point about solar
heating is that it obviously only works when there is sun available and
tends to increase temperature in the hot season rather than improving
swimming conditions in the cold season.
! Fuel heating is also available, the only locally viable type for small
domestic pools being electric. Equipment costs are not great (approx
15% or project value), though running costs can be high. Another
aspect is that three-phase power is required and this can sometimes
lead to complications and additional expense.
! There is little point in heating a pool unless a cover is provided. The
greatest cause of heat loss (approx 70%) being from evaporation and
the cover must therefore be impermeable and float on the water
surface. The ideal type of cover is the bubble type, which is usually
fixed to a roller for ease of use.
0 0
Ambient pool temperatures vary between 20 C and 24 C throughout the
0
year, though with covers and heating temperatures of 30 C during the hot
0
season are not unusual. A comfortable swimming temperature is 25 C-
270C so the importance of some form of heating is obvious.

10
 2. POOL OPERATION & MAINTENANCE

2.1 CIRCULATION SYSTEM

2.1.1 General Arrangement
All pools are equipped with a circulation system for keeping the pool
water clean. The cycle is: pool-pump-filter-pool. The two piping
layouts used are the ‘Freeboard’ and the ‘Decklevel’ arrangements as
shown in Fig 5, plumbing for the two systems being essentially the
same with water being drawn from a main drain at the deepest part of
the pool and from either a surface skimmer (for Freeboard pools) or a
balance tank (for Decklevel pools). A third suction point for a vacuum
cleaner should also be included so typically there should be three
suction lines leading to the pump, each being individually controlled
by an isolation valve.
2.1.2 General Operating Procedures
Under normal working conditions the valves on the main drain and
skimmer (or balance tank if the pool is Decklevel) pipes should be
fully open to approximately equalize flows and the vacuum valve
closed. This ensures that the water is drawn from the deepest part of
the pool as well as from the surface thereby optimizing circulation.
The pool circulation system should always be in operation when the
pool is being used. When not in use it is normally sufficient to switch
the pump on for six to eight hours a day to keep the water clean.
During the cold months when the pool is not in use for long periods,
the operating time can be reduced. The pump operating period
should be determined by the individual pool conditions.
2.1.3 Skimmers (Freeboard Pools)
Skimmers are installed to remove floating debris from the water
surface. The effectiveness of the skimming action can be increased by
slowly closing the isolating valve from the main drain while the
skimmer valve is left open.
The skimmer basket should be checked and cleaned every week as
part of the routine maintenance of the pool. Always make sure that

11
the floating weir (if fitted) is working properly as this has a direct effect
on skimming efficiency.
The correct water level is approximately half way up the skimmer
mouth and it must be maintained at this level. If the water level is
below the skimmer mouth then the skimmer valve should be closed
completely to avoid the risk of the pump sucking air into the system.

2.1.4 Balance Tank Operation (Decklevel Pools)

The balance tank controls operation of the overflow channels in a
Decklevel pool, the balance tank valve on the pump suction
regulating the overflow proportion. To maximize overflow effect the
main suction valve should be closed whilst leaving the balance tank
valve fully open. The overflow action is sensitive to water volume in
the pool/balance tank system and if the volume is reduced the pool
will not overflow. It is therefore important to ensure that lost water is
regularly replenished, the pool being full when, with the circulation
pump off, the water in the pool is at the top of the pool walls and the
level of the water in the balance tank is 60cms below the top.
It is important to note that over-filling the balance tank can result in
water overflowing from the tank and under-filling will affect the
efficiency of the peripheral drainage system. However, if there is a
shortage of water and the level in the balance tank is too low for the
peripheral drains to operate, the valve from the balance tank should
be closed and the pool operated as a freeboard pool using the main
drain only.
2.1.5 Vacuum
Vacuum cleaners are very effective in removing dirt and debris that
settles on the pool floor. The cleaner operates by water being sucked
through the vacuum head via a flexible floating hose to the vacuum
line and thence to the filter where the suspended debris is removed.
Before vacuuming the floating hose should first be filled with water to
prime the system and then be connected to the vacuum point in the
pool wall. The vacuum valve in the plant room (which is normally
closed) should then be fully opened and the pump and skimmer
valves closed

12
 The vacuum head should be moved slowly across the pool floor to
avoid stirring up the dirt that has settled to the bottom of the pool.
When vacuuming is complete make sure that the valves in the plant
room are returned to the normal operating position.

2.2 FILTERS
2.2.1 General Operation
Pressure sand filters operate by straining dirt and suspended debris
from the filtrate water as it is passed through graded filter media by
the pool pump. The debris removed accumulates in the media bed
and this leads to progressive clogging. Larger size filters have a
pressure gauge on the inlet, which can be used to monitor whether
the filter media needs cleaning. When the filter is operating effectively
the operating pressure will typically be between 0.6 and 1.0 Bar; as
the filter progressively blocks the pressure rises and an increase of 0.3
Bar indicates that it cleaning is required. This will involve a
backwashing and rinsing process which reverses flow in the filter bed
and drains the accumulated debris to waste. If no pressure gauge is
supplied then the filter should be backwashed on a regular basis,
normally once a week being sufficient.
2.2.2 Multi-Port Valve Operation
All filters are fitted with a multi-port control valve (MPV) to facilitate
filter operation. There are six positions on the MPV and the various
operations resulting from the different settings are described overleaf.

13
FILTER
FILTER" is normal operating
position. Water from the
pump is fed into the top of the
filter and after passing
To Pool through the media is
collected at the bottom. It is
then returned to the pool
From Pool through the inlet pipes.

BACKWASH "BACKWASH" position is used

to clean the filter by reversing
To Waste flow through the media and
flushing to waste. This
operation normally takes two
To Pool to three minutes and should
be continued until the water in
the sight glass on the side of
From Pool
the MPV is observed as clear.

"RINSE" position is used after

backwash to settle the media
RINSE bed and flush retained debris
to waste. Water flows from
To Waste
top to bottom of the filter as
for normal operation but is
discharged to waste. Rinsing
To Pool should not take more than
one minute and again the
From Pool sight glass on the side of the
valve can be used to see when
the water is clear.

14
RECIRCULATE
In "RECIRCULATE" position
the filter is by-passed
completely and the water is
pumped straight back into the
pool. It will normally only be
To Pool necessary if there is a
problem with the filter itself
(e.g. a leak or a major
From Pool
blockage).

"WASTE" position is used for

emptying the pool. The filter is
by-passed and water is taken
WASTE straight from the pool to waste. If
it becomes necessary to empty
the pool make sure that the
pump is not switched off once
the operation has begun, as
there may be problems with
priming the pump when the
water level is low. This position
can also be used for vacuuming
to waste. This may be necessary
if there is a large amount of
sediment on the floor of the
pool, which would rapidly clog
the filter in normal operations.

CLOSED
"CLOSED" position shuts off
To Waste all flow to the filter and pool. It
is usually used in conjunction
with the valves on the suction
side of the pump to prevent
To Pool water loss when it becomes
necessary to remove the lid of
From Pool the line strainer to clean the
basket.

WARNING: WHENEVER THE POSITION OF THE MPV IS CHANGED THE

PUMP MUST BE SWITCHED OFF OR THE MPV MAY BE DAMAGED.

15
2.3 PUMPS
A typical pump for a domestic pool consists of an electric motor turning an
impeller inside the pump housing. Pumps are rated according to the power
of their motors; the more powerful the motor the larger the water flow.
Domestic pool pumps typically vary from 0.75 HP (0.55 KW) to 1.5 HP (1.1
KW). The pump motor has a thermostat built into the motor windings, which
automatically protects it from overheating. The motor itself is of brushless
design and as such it does not need routine maintenance.
As for the filter, the size required for a particular pool will depend on the
volume of the pool and the pump must be capable of cycling the water
through the filter within the desired cycle time.
A pre-filter or line strainer is usually incorporated into the pump body which
houses a strainer basket for collecting leaves, hair etc. to prevent pump
clogging and damage. The basket should be removed for periodic
cleaning when it is observed as clogged with debris by removing the line
strainer cover
To clean the line strainer proceed as follows:-
a) Stop the pump and isolate the suction pipes by closing the main drain,
skimmer (or balance tank) and vacuum valves.
b) Turn the MPV filter valve lever to “CLOSED”.
c) Open the cover, lift out the basket, clean and replace it. Carefully
check the seating for the lid when it is replaced, as it must be secured
tightly to eliminate air leaks.

16
 3. CHEMICAL DOSAGE

3.1 DOSAGE PRINCIPALS

It is important that all pool operators understand the role of the various
chemicals used to keep pools clean. Basically, if the water in the pool is
clear and blue, the following three conditions should be satisfied:-
a) the acidity-alkalinity balance is correct,
b) all algae and bacteria have been eliminated, and
c) all suspended solids have been removed.
The object of treating the pool water is to maintain these balances. If any of
them is allowed to run out of control then the water in the pool will not be
sparkling blue.
Well cared for pool water will last indefinitely and it should not be necessary
to ever change the pool water unless maintenance work is required on the
pool shell. Water lost through evaporation should be regularly replenished,
which will have little effect on the overall chemical balance. Heavy rain can
add substantial amounts of water in the pool and this can lead to a rapid
growth of algae. It is therefore essential that the chlorine level and pH be
tested after heavy rain and the water treated accordingly.
The key parameter of assessing chemical dosage amounts is the pool water
volume. The volume must be calculated before any estimates of dosage
amounts can be made, measurement of the pool's principal dimensions
3
being necessary to achieve this. Remember 1m = 1000litres. Effective
chemical dosage is not possible without this information.
After calculation of the volume indicate here for future reference:
__________________Litres

3.2 pH BALANCE
The acid alkaline balance in pool water is measured on the pH scale, which
can vary between 1 and 14. Distilled water has a pH of 7.0 (neutral) and the
ideal pH for pool water is between 7.2 and 7.6. If it is higher than this (too
alkaline) the water may become cloudy and the effectiveness of chlorine to
kill bacteria and algae will be reduced. If the pH drops below 7.0 (too acid)

17
then the water becomes corrosive and it will irritate swimmers' eyes. The
effectiveness of chlorine will also be diminished. pH can be easily measured
using a test kit, which has a color-coded comparator for easy reading.
When a pool is first filled the pH should be tested daily until a consistent
reading is obtained. Thereafter testing need only be carried out periodically
if the water remains clear and blue. Regular pH adjustment should not be
necessary once the pool water has settled.
3.2.1 High pH Adjustment (above 7.6)
If the pH is too high it must be lowered by the addition of acid. The
acid can either be in liquid or granular form, DAYLIFF “pH MINUS”
being liquid hydrochloric acid.
The dosage rate to reduce the pH is approximately 60 ccs (gms) of
acid for each 0.1 reduction in pH for each 10,000 litres (10m³) of
water. The quantity of acid (in cc) to be added for various sizes of pool
can be calculated using the table below:-

High pH Dosage Rate (cc)

POOL VOLUME (litres)

pH
70,000 90,000 110,000 130,000 150,000

7.8 1700 2160 2640 3120 3600

8 2550 3240 3960 4680 5400

8.2 3400 4320 5280 6240 7200

8.4 4200 5400 6600 7800 9000

After adding acid the water should be allowed to circulate for four
hours before testing again. If the pH is still too high then the procedure
outlined above should be repeated.
3.2.2 Low pH Adjustment (below 7.2)
If the pH is too low it can be raised by using DAYLIFF “pH PLUS” which
is a powder form of soda ash (sodium carbonate). The procedure is
the same as outlined above for reducing the pH but the dosage rate is
50gms per 0.1 increase in pH per 10,000 litres. The table below gives

18
 the quantity of “pH PLUS” (in gms) to be added to various sizes of
pool:-
Low pH Dosage Rates (gms)

POOL VOLUME (litres)

pH
70,000 90,000 110,000 130,000 150,000

7.0 1400 1800 2200 2600 3000

6.8 2100 2700 3300 3900 4500

6.6 2800 3600 4400 5200 6000

6.4 3500 4500 5500 6500 7500

As “pH PLUS” is a powder it is best to pre-mix it with water before

pouring the concentrated solution into the pool. The checking and
re-application procedure is as for high pH.

3.3 SANITATION & REMOVAL OF ALGAE BACTERIA

The most important aspect of pool chemical dosage is disinfection of the
pool water to keep it free from harmful bacteria and algae. If algae are
present in large enough quantities the pool water will turn green and one of
the methods outlined below can be used to prevent this happening. Algae
can also manifest itself as a black growth between the tiles or in crevices in
the pool wall or floor.
3.3.1 Chlorination
The most common form of pool sanitization is the dosage of a
chlorine compound, which is a powerful oxidizing agent. It can be
obtained in many forms including gas, liquid, powder, granules and
tablet granular compounds being the most common for pool dosage.
For safe and effective disinfection regular daily dosage is necessary
so that there is a residual chlorine level of 1.0 part per million (ppm).
This is normally achieved by adding 1.5 to 3.0 ppm of available
chlorine, the most effective time for treatment being in the evening as
chlorine is oxidized by sunlight.
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 The amount of chlorine to add will depend on the quantity of free
chlorine in the various products available a summary of which are
given below:-
CHLORINE “65”: Also known as Calcium Hypochlorite, chlorine
“65” is a granular form of chlorine and as the amount of available
chlorine is 65%, the daily dosage rate is 25gms for every 10,000 litres
if the water is clear rising to between 75 and 150gms for 'shock'
treatment.
CHLORINE “90”: This is a powder form of chlorine with 90%
available chlorine. The base is trichloro-isocyanuric acid and its use
has the added benefit of reducing the chlorine loss from sunlight. The
daily dosage rate can thus be reduced to 15gms for every 10,000
litres when the water is clear and blue or 50gms for shock treatment.
Alternating the daily addition of CHLORINE “65” and CHLORINE
“90” is often recommended as it helps to stabilize the water (see
Section 3.4).
The table below gives the weight (in gms) of chlorine that should be
added to various sizes of pools on a daily basis. 1.5ppm is the normal
dose. 3 ppm should be added if the bathing loads are high and
10ppm is necessary if the pool water is extremely dirty.
Chlorine Dosage (gms)

VOLUME CHLORINE 65% CHLORINE 90%

LITRES 1.5ppm 3ppm 10ppm 1.5ppm 3ppm 10ppm

40,000 90 190 620 70 130 440

60,000 140 280 920 100 200 670
80,000 190 370 1,230 130 270 890
100,000 230 460 1,540 170 330 1,100
120,000 280 550 1,850 200 400 1,330
140,000 320 650 2,150 230 470 1,560
160,000 370 740 2,460 270 540 1,780
200,000 460 930 3,080 330 670 2,220

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 3.3.2 Salt Water Purifiers
A most effective method of chlorination is to install a saltwater purifier.
They work by producing chlorine by an electrolytic process from salt
pre-dissolved in the pool water and offer the benefit of constant
dosage whenever the pump is running, as well as being much
cheaper to operate than using chemicals. For the unit to operate,
refined salt must be added to the water at the rate of 4000ppm, this
3
relating to 40kgs of salt for each 10,000 litres (10m ) of water
volume. The salt concentration should not be allowed to drop below
3000 ppm or insufficient chlorine is produced.
Various models are available, it being important to follow the
manufacturer's instructions if fitted.
3.3.3 Ionization
As an alternative to chlorination, water can also be purified by
ionization. An ionic purifier consists of a pair of electrodes in a flow
cell, which is plumbed in line with the delivery pipes to the pool. An
electronic control releases minute quantities of copper and silver ions
(which are both bactericidal and algaecidal) into the water. The
intensity of ionization can be varied depending on the bathing loads.
Ionization is a continuous process and so daily attention is not
required. It should however be noted that ionization will not oxidize
body fats and if a pool is subjected to very heavy bathing loads it will
be necessary to supplement the ionic purifier with chlorine dosage.

3.3.4 Algaecide
Under normal operating conditions dosing will be sufficient to kill any
algae in the pool water but if certain types of algae do become
established, an algaecide must be used. DAYLIFF market two
algaecides: “SUPERTOUCH” and “ALGAECURE”.
“SUPERTOUCH” is an organic algaecide, which can also be used to
improve the clarity of the water. The dosage rate is 200ccs (gms) per
10m³ (10,000 litres) and a single dose is normally sufficient to kill all
the algae in the pool. However, if growth is still apparent after three
days, the dosage should be repeated.
“ALGAECURE” is a copper-based algaecide. After dosing with 400
ccs (gms) per 10m³ (10,000 litres), the pool water should be

21
 circulated for 24 hours. The algae can then be removed by using a
stiff brush. If necessary the treatment can be repeated to remove
particularly stubborn algae.

3.4 FLOCCULATION
Occasionally it may be necessary to remove solids suspended in the water
(rather than dissolved in it). This normally occurs when the pool is first filled,
especially if borehole water is used.
As larger size dirt particles quickly settle to the bottom of the pool where they
can be removed by vacuuming or brooming, they do not present a
problem. But as the particle size decreases the settlement time gradually
increases and the smallest size particles remain permanently in suspension.
In order to remove these particles, the water must be dosed with DAYLIFF
“FLOCULANT”. Floculant causes the suspended soil particles to attract one
another thus effectively increasing their size and weight. They then settle to
the pool floor (a process called flocculation) where they can be removed by
normal filtration or vacuuming.
The quantity of “FLOCULANT” to be added will depend on the amount of
dirt in the pool but initial dose of 50 ppm is normally recommended. This
works out at 500gms for every 10 m³ (10,000 litres) of water.
Floculant is supplied in granular form so it must first be premixed to form a
concentrated solution before it is added to the pool. The concentrated
solution should be poured around the edge of the pool and the pump kept
running for three to four hours to ensure effective mixing. Alternatively, the
floculant can be placed in the line strainer on the pump where it will
gradually dissolve while the pump is running. The pump should then be
switched off and the particles allowed to settle preferably overnight. Any
sediment dirt can be removed by filtration. This can sometimes take two to
three days if the water is particularly dirty of if there are a large proportion of
larger sized particles.

3.5 STABILIZER
In addition to the chemicals referred to above the other common chemical
used in pools is DAYLIFF “STABILIZER”. This is a granular form of cynuric
acid, which reduces natural chlorine loss by sunlight. Daily chlorine

22
consumption is thus reduced leading to lower dosage rates. The pool water
should only be stabilised once every six months or whenever the pool is
refilled with fresh water. Before adding the stabilizer the pool water should
have a pH of between 7.2 and 7.6 and it should then be “shock” treated
with chlorine using the doses given in 3.3.1 above. The quantity of stabilizer
to be added depends on the type of chlorine normally used for sanitizing the
pool:-
CHLORINE “65”: Add 500 gms for every 10m³ (10,000 litres) of water.
CHLORINE “90”: Add 200gms for every 10m³ (10,000 litres) of water.
Another way of reducing chlorine consumption is to dose the pool on
alternative days with CHLORINE “65” and CHLORINE “90”. The latter
contains stabilizer but it makes the water acidic. A combination of the two
products will reduce this tendency but at the same time the stabilizer present
will reduce oxidation of the CHLORINE “65”.
Note that the use of “STABILISER” is equally important whether using a
chlorine compound or a salt water chlorinator.

3.6 ANTI-STAIN
DAYLIFF “ANTI-STAIN” is a detergent specially formulated for use in
swimming pools. It is effective in the removal of scum from the top tile layer
as well as for cleaning handrails and other exposed pool accessories. It is
normally applied by cloth but where the staining is excessive a scouring pad
can be used.

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 4. HEATING

The principal cause of heat loss in swimming pools is through evaporation

and if the temperature of the pool is to be maximized by installing a heater
then steps must also be taken to reduce heat loss. This can be achieved by
fitting an impermeable floating cover and it is important that a cover is
fitted.
There are various types of heater available as follows:-

4.1 UNDER SURROUND HEATING

Under-surround heating works by diverting the water being returned from
the filter through a series of pipes built into the pool surround. On a hot day
the pool surround is warmer than the water in the pool and as the water
flows through the pipes it absorbs heat. The warmer water is then returned
to the pool via the inlets. The system is operated on a by-pass system with
three valves.

V3

V2

V1

FROM FILTER

HEATER “ON”
OPEN VI & V3
LOSE V2

FIGURE 6 - UNDER SURROUND HEATER OPERATION

For optimal heating effect, the under surround system should be operated
during the hottest hours of the day (10.00 am to 4.00 pm). Effective heating
will only be obtained when there is direct sunlight on the surround and the
system will be ineffective when shaded either by cloud or trees. As this
system only works when the surround is hotter than the pool water it will cool
the pool if left on overnight.

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4.2 ELECTRIC HEATERS
Electric heaters combine simple operation with high thermal efficiency. The
heater consists of a series of immersion heaters arranged in banks of 9 kW,
each bank being controlled so that output can be adjusted according to the
heating requirement. The heater is installed after the filter and all the water
returning to the pool is passes through the heater. This in-line arrangement
ensures that heat loss is minimized and all the heat energy is transferred to
the water.
The heater is installed complete with a control panel, which incorporates an
electrical interlock so that the heater will not work unless the pump is
switched on. The panel also has switches to isolate the mains power, a timer
switch for automatic operation and switches for the individual banks of
heater elements.
Note that MCB protection is provided inside the panel on all circuits. If for
any reason the pump or heater will not work, check that all the MCBs are
“ON”. If they are “ON” and the equipment will not work or if after resetting
they immediately re-trip, a qualified electrician should be called to check
the installation.

4.3 SOLAR HEATERS

There are various types of solar heating designs, though all use the principle
of pumping water through a collector, which absorbs heat from the sun. It is
important to ensure that collectors designed for swimming pool
applications like the 'Sun Command' product available from Davis &
Shirtliff are used as conventional hot water types are not suitable.
2
For effective heating it is suggested that about 4m of panel area should be
used for each 10,000 litres of pool volume. The solar panels must be
positioned so that they receive the maximum amount of heating during the
hottest hours of the day. Careful consideration must also be given to the
aesthetics of the installation.
The system works on a by-pass similar to that described for the under
surround heating previously discussed and usually incorporates a
thermostat which automatically switches the pool pump off if the
temperature of the water in the pool is higher than the panels.

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 5. CLEANING EQUIPMENT

Not all the dirt or leaves that fall into a pool will be removed by the filter
system and a variety of brushes and cleaners are available to help with
maintenance. It is suggested that the following accessories are sourced to
assist in with pool care:-
! A pool broom for brushing debris from the pool floor. This should be
used by sweeping debris towards the sump so that it is then removed
from the water by the filter.
! A scrubbing brush for helping to dislodge any algae that may have
become attached to the walls or floor.
! A leaf skimmer or leaf rake for removing any leaves that are floating
on the surface of the water or which have sunk to the floor of the pool.
! A vacuum cleaner to keep the pool floor clean. The vacuum head is
connected by a flexible floating hose either to the skimmer or to a
special vacuum point in the pool wall.

Automatic cleaners are also available. These do essentially the same job as
a vacuum cleaner but without the manual input! The most popular model
on sale is the “Baracuda”. It operates in a similar manner to a vacuum
cleaner, the only difference being that the “Baracuda” moves around the
pool in a random pattern.

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 6. TROUBLE SHOOTING

6.1 POOL WATER IS GREEN

Green pool water is caused by a build up of algae. This condition can be
cured by first checking the pH and adjusting if necessary and then shock
treating with chlorine. The pump and filter should then be left on for at least
twenty-four hours for continuous filtration, checking that there is normal
water flow in the circulation system. If the water is still green at the end of this
period repeat the process.
If after several days the water remains unsatisfactory the circulation system
and filter media should be checked.

6.2 POOL WATER CLOUDINESS

Pool water cloudiness is more often than not caused by high (and
sometimes low) pH. Adjusting the pH to between 7.2 and 7.6 will usually
cure this problem though it may be necessary to run the filtration system
continuously until the water clears. It should be noted that if the pH is either
too high or too low then the effectiveness of the chlorine will be reduced and
if the water is also green then shock treatment with chlorine will be
necessary once the pH is within the correct range. The addition of a
flocculant will also assist in cleaning the water.

6.3 COLOURED WATER

Coloured water (reddish brown or brownish black) usually indicated the
presence of iron or manganese. This can occur if steel circulation pipes start
rusting and also if certain types of borehole water are used to top up the
pool. In either case the solution is to flocculate, shock treat the water with
chlorine and then to either remove sediment with a vacuum or by letting the
filtration system operate continuously until the water has cleared. It should
be noted that if there is a significant amount of sediment to be removed then
the filter will have to be back washed more frequently than normal to avoid
clogging.

27
6.4 PUMP FAILURE
There will be times when the pool pump will break down and in these
circumstances it will not be possible to circulate or filter the pool water for
some days. In this situation continue to treat the pool water with double the
normal daily chlorine dosage whilst monitoring and adjusting the pH as
necessary. This will ensure that the water remains sanitized and although
there may be an accumulation of dirt the water will remain in an acceptable
condition for short periods. It should be noted that, even if the water gets
very dirty, once the pump is operating again the filter system will be able to
clean it and it is unusual to have to empty and refill the pool with fresh water.

6.5 FAULTY FILTER

If the filter becomes defective it can be by-passed by turning the MPV to “RE-
CIRCULATE”. Chemical dosage should be doubled and the pH should be
monitored as normal. When the pump is operating the chemicals will be
dispersed uniformly but there will of course be a build up of dirt over time.
This can be easily removed once the filter has been repaired.

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 7. SAFETY

Although swimming pools can give many hours of pleasure, it is vital that
pool owners should be aware of the potential dangers and take all
necessary precautions to avoid accidents. First and foremost is the
possibility of drowning. THIS DANGER CANNOT BE OVER-EMPHASISED.
EVEN RELATIVELY STRONG SWIMMERS CAN OCCASIONALLY GET
INTO TROUBLE AND UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD
CHILDREN BE ALLOWED TO USE THE POOL UNLESS SUPERVISED BY AN
ADULT WHO CAN SWIM.
Toddlers are especially vulnerable and if children under five years of age
are likely to use the pool or even access to the pool area it is strongly
recommended that the pool be fenced and gates kept locked.
Other rules that should be followed to ensure trouble free swimming are:-
! No running or horseplay around the pool.
! Make sure that children have a twenty minute rest every hour if they
are swimming for long periods.
! No electrical appliances to be used in or around the pool.
! Keep a First Aid kit handy but out of the reach of children.
! Do not play with or mix chemicals.
! Always read the instructions before using chemicals and do not
exceed the recommended dosage rates.
! Keep all chemicals out of reach of children.
! Make sure that all chemicals are sealed after use and do not re-use
empty containers.
! Please remember that these rules have been drawn up for you and
your children's safety.

REMEMBER: ACCIDENTS IN AND AROUND A SWIMMING POOL ARE

PREVENTABLE!

29