Rise to the

How to Be a Better Baker challenge!

Sticky-Sweet Yes, you need

Date Buns an oven
P. 63 thermometer
P. 50

GLAZED
Ice ’em while CARDAMOM
they’re hot C A R R OT C A K E
P. 6 0

C H O C O L AT E
CARAMEL
TA H I N I B A R S
P. 6 0
There’s a right Sometimes
way to your butter should SOUR CREAM
AND ONION
measure flour have no chill B I S C U I TS
P. 53 P. 56 P. 61
 April VOLUME 65 NUMBER 3

IF YOU BAKE IT,

YOU GET TO EAT IT.
P. 4 8

HOME A WAY B AS I C A L LY

11 26 33 42 91
The Buy We’re Into It My Big Weekend Highly Bacon Bits PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN.

Charming tools that Yes, Priya Krishna Hot tamales, spicy Recommend Everything you need
make cleaning cuter. could live without noodle soup, and Our Platonic ideal to know to bring
these products. zero cheesesteaks of a cookie, home the bacon (and
14 But she’d rather not. in South Philly. plus other carefully cook it too!).
Family Meal BY ALEX DELANY curated endorsements.
Spicy meatballs, 28 ETIQUET TE
gingery steamed Picky Eaters ’ 38 THE READ
fish, and more tasty Club The Nine 98
weeknight dinners. A pork and asparagus These porridges 44 Is It Ever Okay…
BY CHRISTINA CHAEY stir-fry for those are just right. Will Write Can you ask guests to
who don’t want spice BY JESSE SPARKS for Pasta chip in on groceries?
24 (the kids) and those When writing got Dinner party advice
Cookbooks who still crave flavor 40
hard, making pasta from Alex Beggs.
Which new release (the adults). The Little Things
felt easy.
are you? It’s like BY DEB PERELMAN
This D.C. restaurant is
BY JIA TOLENTINO
Myers-Briggs bringing Laotian food ON THE COVER
except the results to the fore. Cinnamon-Date Sticky
will help you get BY CHANNAPHA Buns (for recipe, see p.63).
food on the table. KHAMVONGSA Photograph by Laura
BY ALEX BEGGS
Murray. Food styling by
Susan Spungen.

2 – APRIL 2020
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 Apr i l

AFTERNOON TEA
HAS NEVER BEEN
THIS COOL.
P. 8 4

48
Butter, Sugar,
Flour, Magic
The Basically guide
to becoming a
better baker, one
recipe at a time.
RECIPES BY MOLLY BAZ,
SOHLA EL-WAYLLY, AND
SARAH JAMPEL

64
All In on Alliums
There’s a lot to
love about onion
and garlic’s
extended family.
TEXT BY JESSE SPARKS
RECIPES BY
ANDY BARAGHANI

72
How the Video
Gets Made
The trials, tribulations,
and silver strands
behind our Gourmet
Makes video series.
BY ALEX BEGGS

74
Make Better
Pasta
Chef Evan Funke
spins gold out of
a box of noodles
and spring’s
brightest veggies.
BY MOLLY BAZ

84
Surf, Sun,
and Souya
Tour Senegal’s
coastal food capital
of Dakar with
chef Pierre Thiam.
Get very hungry.
AS TOLD TO
JESSE SPARKS

IN EVERY ISSUE
PHOTOGRAPH BY BRAD OGBONNA

8 editor’s letter
96 recipe index
96 sourcebook

4 – APRIL 2020
 *

*Because I don’t believe a houseplant really warms a house.

BRING SOMETHING MORE TO THE TABLE

SHARE GENEROUSLY. DRINK RESPONSIBLY. Basil Hayden's¨ Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 40% Alc./Vol. ©2020 Kentucky Springs Distilling Co., Clermont, KY.
 Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Creative Director MICHELE OUTLAND
Deputy Editor JULIA KRAMER
Director of Editorial Operations CRISTINA MARTINEZ

Editorial Design Test Kitchen

Features Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Design Director CHRIS CRISTIANO Test Kitchen Director CHRIS MOROCCO
Bonappetit.com Editor SASHA LEVINE Art Director CHRISTA GUERRA Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, MOLLY BAZ,
Healthyish Editor AMANDA SHAPIRO Associate Art Director LETICIA SARMENTO ANNA STOCKWELL
Basically Editor SARAH JAMPEL Senior Designer BRYAN FOUNTAIN Assistant Food Editor SOHLA EL -WAYLLY
Senior Staff Writer ALEX BEGGS Art Assistant ANNALEE SOSKIN Test Kitchen Manager GABY MELIAN
Digital Restaurant Editor ELYSE INAMINE Test Kitchen Video Host BRAD LEONE
Associate Editors HILARY CADIGAN, Photography Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS
CHRISTINA CHAEY, ALEX DELANY Senior Visuals Editor MICHELLE HEIMERMAN Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN
Assistant Editor ALIZA ABARBANEL Associate Visuals Editor EMMA FISHMAN
Assistant Editorial Producer EMMA WARTZMAN Food Editor at Large CARLA LALLI MUSIC
Staff Photographer LAURA MURRAY
Editorial Assistant JESSE SPARKS Contributing Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZ
Assistant to the Editor in Chief RYAN WALKER-HARTSHORN Contributing Food Editor RICK MARTINEZ
Operations
Contributing Food Stylist REBECCA JURKEVICH
Editorial Operations Manager NICK TRAVERSE
Contributing Editors Production Manager MATT CARSON
Editor at Large ANDREW KNOWLTON Digital
Associate Production Manager KATE FENOGLIO
Editor at Large AMIEL STANEK Associate Director of Social Media RACHEL KARTEN
Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON
Contributing Editor ALISON ROMAN Copy Manager BRIAN CARROLL Social Media Manager EMILY SCHULTZ
Wine Editor MARISSA A. ROSS Research Director JOSEPH HERNANDEZ Associate Analytics Director CLARA CHEN
Contributing Writer PRIYA KRISHNA Research Manager JOYCE PENDOLA Audience Development Manager ALEX PASTRON
Entertainment Editor CAITLIN BRODY

Chief Business Officer

JENNIFER MORMILE
Head of Sales, CPG JORDANA PRANSKY Head of Marketing BREE M c KENNEY VP, Finance ROB NOVICK
VP, Marketing TARA MASON Senior Business Director JENNIFER CRESCITELLI Director, Marketing EMILY SUNDBERG

HEADS OF SALES
Fashion, American AMY OELKERS Fashion, International DAVID STUCKEY Beauty LUCY KRIZ Head of Sales, Auto ERICA SIEGEL Media/Entertainment BILL MULVIHILL
Business/Finance/Technology DOUG GRINSPAN Vice LAURA SEQUENZIA Home JEFF BARISH Health CARRIE MOORE Travel BETH LUSKO-GUNDERMAN
VP, Revenue–Midwest PAMELA QUANDT VP, Revenue–San Francisco DEVON ROTHWELL VP, Enterprise Sales–Los Angeles DAN WEINER

CREATIVE
Senior Art Director PHUONG NGUYEN Executive Producer LLOYD D ’SOUZA Senior Producer JULIE SULLIVAN
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Executive Director, Communications MOLLY PACALA Senior Manager, Communications SAVANNAH JACKSON

PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST WORLDWIDE EDITIONS PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE Condé Nast is a global media company producing
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6 – APRIL 2020
 Editor ’s Letter
Team Basically,
from left: Molly Baz,
Sohla El-Waylly, recent afternoon baking her cardamom car-
and Sarah Jampel
rot cake for, literally, the 11th time. She was
striving to achieve a mirror-like glaze on her
cake, as opposed to the candy corn–orange
candle wax that her previous testing yielded.
It is this patient, compulsive attention to
detail that I don’t possess—at least not as a
home cook. I like to think that, you know,
I don’t need recipes, that I can cook by feel.
Of course, when you’re running a site like
Basically, cooking by feel isn’t an option. If
the recipes don’t work, the site doesn’t work.
And if, for some odd reason, a recipe isn’t
working, Sarah will do all she can to right
a possible wrong. Like spending six hours
a few Sundays ago fielding questions on
our Basically Baking Forum (basicallybaking
.bonappetit.com). Baking acolytes from all
over the world peppered Sarah with queries:

@Krispy 1
Hi Sarah,
I’m in Australia and butter is sold as
500gm blocks here. Are you able to advise
how many grams a stick of butter is please?
My other question is about buckwheat.
Is wholemeal flour the equivalent in Aus?
Kind Regards,
Krispy

@Sarah_Jampel Staff 1
Hi Krispy!
1 stick of butter in the U.S. weighs 113
grams! Buckwheat flour isn’t the same as
whole wheat flour because it’s gluten-free
They’re Here for You and grain-free, made from dried and
ground buckwheat groats. BUT if you can’t
find buckwheat flour, I think that rye flour
or spelt flour would be the best substitutes.
WHEN I ASKED SAR AH JAMPEL why she was testing her salty Does that help?!

buckwheat chocolate chunk cookies for what seemed to me like the

97th time, she started going on about the absence of gluten in buck- Okay, now imagine that same exchange
wheat flour. She jotted down notes in her tiny, meticulous handwriting roughly 62 more times—all in one day. Do
while explaining that the half cup of buckwheat flour called for in that and you’ll get a sense of what Basically
the recipe balances the one cup of all-purpose flour and how it was is all about. A site that not only pops with
imperative that we get the ratio just right. snappy headlines, a conversational recipe
Sarah is the editor of Basically, our learning-to-cook online tone, and crisp, gorgeous imagery, but also
PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY

vertical (eatbasically.com). And this month Basically takes center has recipes that work each and every time.
stage in the magazine with its Guide to Better Baking (page 48). You know, after they’ve been tested again
and again and again. And again.
Much of the success of the 16-page package can be traced back
to Sarah’s obsessive nature, but that would be ignoring the fas- A DA M R A P O P O R T
tidious habits of her Basically teammates, Sohla El-Waylly and edi tor in chie f
Molly Baz. One kitchen island over from Sarah, Sohla spent a @rapoport on instagram

8 – APRIL 2020
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 S P R I N G ’S B E S T WE’RE ALL OVER
NEW COOKBOOKS T H I S A S PA R AG U S
p. 24 R e c i p e s , E s s e n t i a l G o o d s , a n d Te s t K i t c he n K n o w - H o w p. 28

Steel dustpan and

broom set, $17;
worldmarket.com

Good
Clean Fun
We asked
BA’s resident neat
freaks for the
better-for-the-
earth products and
tools they depend
on to keep their
kitchens sparkling

DUST BUSTER
“As a designer
ILLUSTRATIONS BY LIANA JEGERS

I need everything
in my life to
be aesthetically
pleasing—all
the way down
to this cheery
steel dustpan.”
Christa Guerra
Art Director

P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY A P R I L 2 0 2 0 – 11
 BRUSH UP

“My ever-
growing
collection of
chic reusable
water bottles

& demands a
cute bottle
brush like this
silicone one
by Holikme
(from $7;
When pollinators thrive, ingredients thrive. amazon.com)
that’s safe
Pollinators are vital to our rich, diverse food supply for both
– including the pumpkins, apples and cranberries in
metal and
glass bottles.”
That’s why we Christina Chaey
Associate Editor
created Project Blossom – to help protect

pollinators starting with a $100,000 contribution to

The Nature Conservancy.

ALL-PURPOSE WITH PURPOSE

“Blueland’s minimalist Forever bottle
($12; blueland.com) means I’ll never have
to buy another cleaning product in a
single-use plastic bottle. Fill it with water,
Join our efforts at plop in a $2 dissolvable tablet of
BeyondPetFood.com/ProjectBlossom. super-powered surface cleaner, and go.”
Emily Schultz
Social Media Manager

T H E U N - PA P E R T O W E L
“I haven’t used paper towels in
almost two years. Instead, I keep
a stack of dish towels or reusable
sponge cloths ($6; tenandco.ca)
within sight and hide my
one backup roll of compostable
paper towels in a drawer.”
Gaby Melian
Test Kitchen Manager
THEY SEE THE
PERSON WHO
LOVES THEM.
BEYOND® SEES AN EXPERT WHO KNOWS THEM.

At Beyond, we give you natural, mix-and-match style

options with vitamins, minerals and nutrients for the
pet you know best. Learn more at BeyondPetFood.com.

Beyond. Feed with purpose.

 Home

Family Meal
The easiest steamed fish, spicy meatballs, and
more spring recipes to cook this month

A layer of cabbage
and mushrooms
acts as a barrier
between the fish and
the pot (no steamer
basket required).

You can make this in

a large saucepan,
Dutch oven, or donabe,
a Japanese clay pot.

A F E W Y E A R S A G O I made the game-changing decision to start buying fish not according to the recipes I’d
bookmarked but based on what looked best at the market. These days I almost never know whether I’ll end up with
salmon or black bass or halibut on any given night, but I always know how I’m going to cook it: by steaming,
a back-pocket technique that works with any fish. No method does a better job of letting the delicate flavor of the fish
itself really shine. The recipe on page 18 features a flavorful soy-ginger broth that creates a little steam-room
environment in the pot, resulting in a rich and flaky, never-dry fish. Call it my version of spa food. — C H R I S T I N A C H A E Y

14 – A P R I L 2 0 2 0 P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY
roomandboard.com
 Home – Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Piri-Piri Meatballs 1 red Fresno chile, seeds removed
2¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, divided
This vibrant and spicy blender 3 garlic cloves, 1 whole, 2 finely 1½ tsp. smoked paprika, divided
sauce livens up everything from grated ⅔ cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
quick meatballs to chicken and ½ cup roasted red peppers from a jar, 1 large egg
shrimp. Our riff uses more widely drained ¾ tsp. ground cumin
available Fresno chiles to add heat 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 lb. ground beef (20% fat)
R E C I P E BY M O L LY B A Z 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, ¾ cup whole-milk Greek yogurt
divided, plus more for drizzling

1. Purée chile, whole garlic Each of the

clove, red peppers, vinegar, recipes in
3 Tbsp. oil, 1½ tsp. Diamond this section:
Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher
Takes under
salt, and 1 tsp. paprika in a 1 hour
blender until very smooth. Transfer —
piri-piri sauce to a small bowl. Has 10
ingredients
2. Place a rack in upper third of or fewer
oven; preheat to 450°. Using (not including
salt, pepper,
a fork, mix panko, 2 Tbsp. piri-piri and one
sauce, and 1 Tbsp. water in a cooking fat)
medium bowl. Add egg and mash —
with fork until homogenous, Requires no
special gadgets
about 1 minute. Let sit until panko or appliances
is softened, about 3 minutes.
3. Add finely grated garlic, cumin,
1 Tbsp. oil, 1¼ tsp. Diamond
Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher
salt, and remaining ½ tsp. paprika
to panko mixture and mix well.
Add about one-third of beef
and gently work into panko
mixture with your hands until well
incorporated and it no longer
feels wet. Add remaining beef and
gently mix until evenly dispersed.
Form into twelve 2"-diameter
balls and space out evenly on
a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet.
4. Bake meatballs 5 minutes, then
turn on broiler (you can leave the
meatballs in the oven while the
broiler heats up). Broil until golden
brown on top and just barely
cooked through, about 5 minutes.
5. Spread yogurt onto plates
and arrange meatballs on top.
Drizzle with remaining piri-piri
sauce and more oil.
DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made
1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Whether you swoosh,
dollop, or swipe, yogurt
is a must.

16 – A P R I L 2 0 2 0
 Home – Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Soy and Ginger 2 6–8-oz. skinless black bass fillets
4 oz. mixed mushrooms (such as
shiitake, oyster, beech, and/or
Steamed Fish Kosher salt maitake), torn into pieces
This method is endlessly adaptable: 1 4x3" piece dried kombu (optional) 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, cut into
Swap the black bass for salmon; 2 Tbsp. sake or dry white wine thin matchsticks
use spinach instead of cabbage. 2 Tbsp. soy sauce Cooked rice (for serving)
Don’t like mushrooms? Skip ’em! 1 Tbsp. mirin 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
R E C I P E BY C H R I S T I N A C H A E Y ½ medium head of Napa cabbage, 2 scallions, thinly sliced on
stems thinly sliced, leaves torn a diagonal

1. Slice each fillet into 3 pieces;

season all over with salt. Set aside.
2. Combine kombu (if using),
sake, soy sauce, mirin, and ¾ cup
water in a medium donabe
or Dutch oven or large saucepan.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat
to low. Layer cabbage stems, then
leaves in pot. Scatter mushrooms
and ginger over and place
reserved fish on top. Cover pot
and cook until fish is opaque and
just cooked through, 8–10 minutes.
3. Spoon some rice into bowls Dried kombu is
and top with vegetables and fish, worth seeking out—it
dividing evenly; ladle broth over. adds complexity
to the simple broth.
Drizzle with sesame oil and top
with scallions.

18 – A P R I L 2 0 2 0
 Home – Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Spring Chicken 2 large skinless, boneless chicken
8 oz. green beans, trimmed
1 large head of Bibb lettuce
Dinner Salad breasts (about 1¼ lb. total) 1 small bunch chives, sliced into
Poaching skinless, boneless chicken 3 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3½ tsp. 2"-long pieces
breasts in well-salted water yields Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 cup basil leaves
impossibly juicy and flavorful meat 1 lemon, halved 1 bunch radishes, trimmed, halved,
that won’t dry out 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard cut into wedges if large
R E C I P E BY K AT B OY T S OVA 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup torn peperoncini
Freshly ground black pepper 1 avocado, thinly sliced

1. Place chicken in a large

saucepan and pour in 4 cups Need an even quicker
dinner? Pick up
cold water to cover; add 3 Tbsp. a rotisserie chicken.
Diamond Crystal or 3½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt. Bring to
a gentle boil over medium heat,
then immediately turn over chicken
with tongs. Cover pot, remove from
heat, and let chicken sit until an
instant-read thermometer inserted
into the thickest part registers
150°, 5–10 minutes (depending
on thickness of breast). Transfer
chicken to a cutting board and let
rest 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, squeeze lemon
halves into a medium bowl. Whisk
in mustard, then gradually stream
in oil, whisking constantly until
dressing is thick and emulsified.
Season with salt and pepper.
3. Using a rolling pin, whack
green beans on a cutting board
until skins split and insides are
softened but not pulverized.
4. Transfer beans to a medium
bowl and drizzle in 2 Tbsp.
dressing. Massage beans with
your hands to break down
further and coat; season with salt.
5. Separate lettuce leaves; toss in
another medium bowl with chives
and basil. Arrange on a platter.
6. Toss radishes, peperoncini, and
1 Tbsp. dressing in the same bowl;
season with salt. Slice chicken
¼"–½" thick; season with pepper.
Arrange chicken, radish salad,
green beans, and avocado on
platter with lettuce as desired.
Drizzle with more dressing; serve
remaining dressing alongside.

20 – APRIL 2020
 Home – Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Miso Polenta With ¾ cup polenta (not quick-cooking)
4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems
removed, caps sliced if large
Spring Vegetables 2 Tbsp. white miso 3 garlic cloves
We skipped the milk, butter, and Kosher salt ½ cup shelled fresh peas (from about
cheese in this polenta; a spoonful 1 bunch spring onions or scallions ½ lb. pods) or frozen peas, thawed
of savory miso adds tons of depth 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 8 oz. sugar snap peas,
while still keeping the texture light ½ 14-oz. block firm tofu, drained, strings removed
R E C I P E BY C H R I S M O R O C C O patted dry, torn into bite-size 2 Tbsp. black bean garlic sauce
pieces Toasted sesame seeds (for serving)

1. Bring 3 cups water to a boil

in a large saucepan. Add polenta
and miso and whisk vigorously
to incorporate. Bring to a simmer Asparagus or favas
would be welcome to
and cook, whisking often in the
crash this party too.
beginning and less often as
mixture thickens, until polenta is
tender, 30–35 minutes. Season
with salt. Keep warm over low
heat until ready to serve.
2. Meanwhile, cut dark green
tops from spring onions and thinly
slice; set aside for serving. Cut
white and pale green parts into
3" pieces, halving lengthwise if
thick; set aside. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil
in a large nonstick skillet over
medium-high. Cook tofu, tossing
occasionally, until browned and
crisp around the edges, about
5 minutes. Season lightly with salt
and transfer to a plate.
3. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in
same skillet and cook mushrooms,
tossing occasionally, until
browned, about 5 minutes. Add
garlic and reserved white and
pale green parts of spring onions
and cook, tossing often, until
softened, about 3 minutes. Add
both peas; cook, tossing
occasionally, until bright green
and beginning to soften, about 3
minutes. Add black bean sauce
and ¾ cup water and bring to a
simmer. Cook, stirring once or
twice, until vegetables are crisp-
tender and liquid is reduced by
half, about 3 minutes.
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH

4. Transfer polenta to a platter.

Top with tofu and vegetables.
Spoon sauce over and top with
sesame seeds and reserved spring
onion tops.

APRIL 2020 – 23
 Home – Cookbooks

by A L E X B E G G S

START
How much do
you love beans? YO U N E E D
Joe Yonan’s fun-loving,
very comprehensive
They’re Cool Beans (February;
fine $20) will leave you smarter
and unexpectedly psyched
to bake a white bean
Bundt cake. Bonus: All the

FOR BOOK CLUB

In Everything Is Under COOK FROM THIS BOOK?
Control

Duh

about cooking and

So many
condiments

PA I R S W E L L W I T H
ORANGE WINE
If cool is contagious,
we want to catch it from
TA H I N I M A K E S E V E RY T H I N G B E T T E R La Buvette (July; $25),

Agree Disagree

P I C K A P O ’ B OY

journey to Palestine
Fried
shrimp

CA JUN CALLING
Chef Melissa M. Martin
of Mosquito Supper
Club (April; $35) takes

Kingdom
What if I’m
not vegan?
vegan fare (Jerk tofu!
Lacto-fermented beets!)

I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY S U P E R F R E A K
 t hi ng b ut ba sic
Any

F F I C I A L BR
O
EAD
THE

GR
OF

SE

ILLED E E
CH
© Bimbo Bakeries USA, Inc. All rights reserved.
 H o m e – We ’re I n t o I t

Traveling Shoes and

the Secret to Better Brews
Every little thing contributing
writer Priya Krishna loves right now

Take Them in Stride The Ideal Hot Pot

I’ve been raving about this pair of Chef Reem Assil introduced me to
Sabah shoes ($195; shop.sabah.am) this HIC Turkish coffee warmer
made by Turkish leather artisans ever ($20; walmart.com), which, ironically,
since my sister introduced me to them. I don’t use for coffee. It’s sturdy and
I’ve worn them to trek through Delhi perfectly sized for tempering spices
and Berlin and to shoot videos in the in oil or boiling several eggs. It also
test kitchen—they’re that versatile. has a convenient spout for pouring.

Pen Pals Sour Power

I love sending handwritten notes, and Without MTR Spiced Chutney
these illustrated Pyarful greeting Powder ($15 for pack of two;
cards (from $5; pyarful.com) are cute amazon.com), my pantry would be
and cheeky! The puns are geared incomplete. Mix it with melted ghee
to South Asian culture (“Paneer or Far, for a spicy-tangy condiment to pour
You’re Always in My Heart”), on everything from roasted sweet
but they’re universally lovable. potatoes and rice to dosas and idlis.

Watch me cook
through my
go-to recipes at
youtube.com
/bonappetit
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA MURRAY

The Bold Lip Chai Time

I wear a lot of lipstick, and MAC’s My mother has never made her chai
Frost Lipstick in Fresh Moroccan with any brand but Tetley Classic
($19; maccosmetics.com) is hands black tea ($4 for 100 tea bags;
down my favorite. It’s a deep pop of instacart.com), and now neither do I.
red with a subtle shimmer that stays It’s smooth, fruity, and just intense
on alllll day and looks particularly enough, and it pairs well with
awesome on darker skin tones. aromatic chai spices like cardamom.

26 – APRIL 2020 I L LU ST R AT I O N BY DA M I E N C U Y P E R S
©P&G 2020
 Pork and Asparagus Stir-Fry
We jump on asparagus the
4 S E RV I N G S
second we see it at the market this time of
year, but green beans, snap peas, or any
other crisp green spring vegetable would
also be great here.

3 tsp. peanut or vegetable oil,

divided
2 lb. asparagus, trimmed, cut on
a diagonal into 1"–2" pieces
Kosher salt
8 oz. ground pork
6 scallions, white and pale green
parts only, finely chopped
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely
chopped
Some Don’t 2 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice

Like It Hot
wine) or medium-dry sherry
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
But with this Sichuan-inspired stir-fry, Deb Perelman makes it work 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
Cooked rice and store-bought chili
crisp (for serving)
have a joke about how much he likes my cook-
MY H U S B A N D A N D I Heat 1 tsp. peanut oil in a large skillet
ing. “This is delicious!” he’ll say as he shakes a bottle of Sriracha all over high. Once pan is hot (oil will be
over the soup/tacos/omelet/spaghetti I’ve made. I’ve learned not to lightly smoking), add half of asparagus
take it personally, and in fact I’ve joined him, finding that my own and a couple pinches of salt and cook,
spice tolerance has slowly crept up from virtually nonexistent to “Who tossing only once or twice so the pieces
finished the chili crisp again?!” have a chance to blister, until crisp-
tender and lightly browned, about
Then there are the other two people in our family: the Picky Con- 4 minutes. Transfer asparagus to a plate.
tingent. The older one, never wanting to miss out on the fun, asks for Add 1 tsp. peanut oil to skillet (no need
a microscopic dot of hot sauce on his plate at dinner and then imme- to wipe it out) and repeat process with
diately washes it down with half a glass of water. Still, this is progress. remaining asparagus.
The four-year-old, also known as the one who recently requested Reduce heat to medium-high; add
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. ILLUSTRATIONS BY SUPER FREAK.

“pasta with nothing on it and nothing near it,” would prefer not even remaining 1 tsp. peanut oil to skillet,
a speck of black pepper in her food. This, of course, poses a challenge then add pork, spreading out into an
even layer. Season with a couple
to the way I like my food: seasoned to the point where you might actu- pinches of salt and cook, undisturbed,
ally taste it, no matter how radical this sounds. until meat begins to brown underneath,
What’s a cook who refuses to make multiple versions of the same about 2 minutes. Break up meat with
meal to do? The first time I make something, like this asparagus stir-fry a wooden spoon and add scallions,
that’s loosely inspired by my love for Sichuan dry-fried green beans, I garlic, and ginger. Cook, stirring, until
go easy on the heat. Mostly I’m just trying to get everyone to the table. pork is crisp and mixture is very fragrant,
Then, once I’ve (hopefully) convinced everyone that they like this about 2 minutes. Add wine and soy
dish—blistered yet snappy asparagus and crispy pork in a robust sauce, sauce and return asparagus to skillet.
Cook, turning to coat with pork mixture,
how could they not?—I might sneak in an extra spoonful of chili crisp until heated through, about 1 minute.
next time, hoping the slight shift won’t be too detectable. We may never Transfer stir-fry to a platter or large
get to a place where my husband doesn’t need to “adjust” his plate with shallow bowl and drizzle with sesame
hot sauce, but it’s nice to be heading in the right direction. oil. Serve with rice and chili crisp.

28 – APRIL 2020 P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY
 Pe a k To ma t o
E P. 18 0

On Sal t E P. 15 9

E P. 174
It ’s A l l I n t he V ib e
Li q uid G ol d
E P. 151

E P. 172
The I c e C re a m Ma n
Put an Egg o n It
E P. 10 7

Ac id Tr ip E P. 13 0

P iz za , P i z za !
E P. 173

Rice 2 .0 E P. 161

. . . P L U S 2 30 + O T H E R E P I S O D E S A N D C O U N T I N G .

Down l oad i t w he rever you g et yo u r pod c a st s.

 A T H O R O U G H LY THE COOKIE THAT
L AO RESTAUR ANT HAS IT ALL
p. 40 Go here. Eat this. Drink that. Right this minute. p. 42

WHEN IN PHILLY
Springtime in South Philly
means eating tacos,
drinking Jarritos, and getting
some sun at Tamalex.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY
LIANA JEGERS

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J I L L I A N G U Y E T T E APRIL 2020 – 33

 A w a y – M y B i g We e k e n d

South Philly
The Latin
American Mainstay
Two blocks east of the Italian
Market—now a hub for fantastic
Mexican grocers, butchers,
…where it’s never been more diverse and delicious and restaurants like Hot 10 alum
South Philly Barbacoa—is one
by ALEX DEL ANY of the neighborhood’s top
Mexican joints, Tamalex. The
Mexican-Honduran spot lights
South Philly is one of America’s great
LO C A L S S AY T H A T up on weekend mornings when
chefs Alejandro Mondragon and
dining neighborhoods. They’re right. Over the past 30 years, David Piña serve thousands of
the historically Italian, Black, and Irish area has become one steaming hot tamales. Show up
early—they will sell out—or
of the city’s most diverse neighborhoods. The Italian Market is come through later for pambazos,
huge sandwiches built on fried
home to some of the country’s best tacos and tamales. Irish bread dipped in guajillo sauce
pubs are flanked by Indonesian and Thai neighbors slinging and filled with sausage and
potatoes or a fried chicken cutlet.
spicy soul-cleansing staples. Lebanese, Vietnamese, Black, Don’t skip the bean pupusas, a
simple reminder that pinto beans
Thai, Mexican, Italian, and Indonesian locals not only helm are enough to inspire pure joy.
these spots but frequent them too—proving that they’re truly
The Savor y Pie Expert
neighborhood restaurants. And after hitting up these joints, When was the last time you
you’ll understand what South Philadelphians mean. heard someone preach the British
pie shop gospel? Well, here
I go. Chef Sam Jacobson grew
up in England before moving
ESSENTIALS to Philly, cooking his way across
the city, and ultimately opening
Stargazy. Jacobson’s pastry case
is stacked with deeply savory
pies (and some sweet ones), like
S Q U AY U N K
RE

the classic beef and onion or

the Cornish pasty (upon request)
PASS

served with fluffy mashed

potatoes and traditional parsley
liquor. But the grail is the sausage
roll: ground pork seasoned with
SOUTH sage, nutmeg, allspice, ginger,
PHILADELPHIA
and garlic and wrapped in a
buttery laminated pastry dough.
The Hot Spots
Based on extensive research,
• Tamalex I can guarantee you that one
• Stargazy sausage roll will not be enough.
• Bitar’s
• Kalaya The Middle
• River Twice Eastern Anchor
• Café Diem Ever since Elias and Mariette
• John’s Roast Pork Bitar opened Bitar’s nearly 50
• Sky Cafe years ago, the Middle Eastern
grocery has been a pillar
of the South Philadelphia scene,
When to Visit
supplying folks with quarts of
You can’t beat tabbouleh, tubs of tahini, and
spring in the city. bags of pita. A few years back,
when their sons took over, the
Where to Stay grocery shifted into a full-service
restaurant, and it’s become even
Airbnb is
the move, but just
more of a neighborhood staple.
north of the
Grab a corner table and order
neighborhood is
dolmas (herby rice wrapped in
the beautiful
tender grape leaves), rich baba
Deacon hotel.
ghanoush, za’atar-seasoned
olives, and the “owner’s favorite
sandwich” (thinly sliced lamb
What to Bring Back gyro, crispy falafel, and harissa
Center City mayo stuffed into a pita). One
Pretzel Co. soft of the Bitar brothers will remind
The gang is all here at Tamalex: pambazo, pupusas, and tacos al pastor. pretzels you to get it should you forget.

34 – APRIL 2020
 A w a y – M y B i g We e k e n d

Som tum for the soul at Kalaya John’s Roast Pork, a landmark in itself

The Hot test Thai Spot lies Lancaster County, which has The Sandwich Artist
Life seems boring after eating the most fertile nonirrigated (read Ask a tourist what Philadelphia’s
at Kalaya. Colors are duller. naturally water efficient) farmland best sandwich is and they’ll
Smells that aren’t chile or fish in the nation. Chef Randy Rucker say cheesesteak. Ask an Italian
sauce aren’t even worth inhaling. highlights all those pristine from South Philly and they’ll say
That’s because the food at ingredients on the constantly Italian roast pork. Ask me and
5 E XC E L L E N T
chef Nok Suntaranon’s homey changing menu: raw bay scallops NEIGHBORHOOD I’ll clarify—John’s Roast Pork.
southern Thai restaurant is topped with fermented beech BARS Its namesake has been made the
absolutely exhilarating. Her mushrooms and umami-laden same way for the past 90 years:
dishes—passed down from her sunchoke miso, Pennsylvania by rubbing hardy herbs, salt,
mother and grandmother—bring lettuces tossed with tangy grape garlic, and pepper all over pork
vinegar and horseradish, and Fountain Porter
an unapologetic spice-powered shoulder and then roasting,
Regional beers,
breath of fresh air. I’m talking an off-menu smash burger that refrigerating, skinning, slicing,
a killer record collection,
about laab ped (spicy ground just might be the city’s best. and the finest $5 and throwing it into fatty pork
duck salad with chiles, fried cheeseburger around. jus. The meat comes piled on
shallots, and lime leaves), goong The Vietnamese a sesame hoagie roll (only
aob woon sen (baked shrimp Soup Star Le Caveau Carangi’s) with garlicky spinach,
with glass noodles and long hots, The bun bo Hue—spicy beef soup A dark, moody sharp provolone, and more jus.
an ingredient South Philly Italians with rice noodles, basil, bean spot pouring affordable
ILLUSTRATION BY SUPERFREAK. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

know and love), and rainbow- French natural wine. The Indonesian Icon
sprouts, and lime wedges—at
hued salads brimming with bright Café Diem is the stuff of legend If you’re not eating at a strip
crunchy vegetables. It’s BYOB, Ray’s Happy
in Little Saigon. This vibrant Birthday Bar mall off Washington Avenue,
so bring a six-pack of something neighborhood within South Philly you’d better turn around and do
A beer. And a shot. And
light and cold. You’ll need it. is filled with Vietnamese bakeries, a cigarette in the it again. And while you’re at it,
banh mi shops, and pho counters, bar. Happy birthday! make your destination Sky Cafe.
The Farm-to-Table but this tiny family-run noodle Chef Lily Tjia brings traditional
Stunner shop is always packed for a Royal Izakaya Indonesian dishes you’ll want
I usually roll my eyes at the reason: that bun bo Hue. The Japanese whisky to order aggressively: luscious
phrase New American cuisine The broth is loud with herbal and sake lists are house-made pork sausage
outdone only by karaage
(the ultimate cliché). But I don’t lemongrass, assertive chiles, and wrapped in crispy soy skin,
chicken wings.
at River Twice, where New funky shrimp paste. But there are lontong sayur (rice cakes with
American translates to not only quieter soups too, like pho ga McCusker’s Tavern vegetable curry, spicy eggs,
serving beautiful produce-driven (chicken-based pho) or hu tieu Cold beer close and beef rendang, coconut-milk-
dishes but supporting one of (thin rice noodles with shrimp and to the stadiums—this braised beef), and stinky beans
our country’s great farming pork in a savory pork-and-dried- is not the place (known as sator beans) that, yes,
communities. Just west of Philly squid broth). to trash-talk the Birds. live up to their name.

36 – APRIL 2020
 A w a y – Th e N i n e

More Porridge, Please

When it’s supposed to be spring but the weather says otherwise, it must be porridge season.
Restaurants across the country are delivering on our comfort craving, from thick
Cantonese-style congee with tender shredded chicken to stone-fruit-streaked bowls of soft grains
that taste more like dessert. Not to get mushy, but we’ve fallen hard for, well, mush.
by J E S S E S PA R KS

PHOTOGRAPHS: EMILY BERGER (FOLK); WILLIAM CROOKS (THE ANCHORAGE); ASHLEY LESTER (PEPPERVINE); BRANDON HARMAN (PORRIDGE + PUFFS); CHARITY BURGGRAAF (LUCINDA GRAIN BAR);
LAURA MURRAY (MADAME VO BBQ); JULI LEONARD (BREWERY BHAVANA); JOE ST. PIERRE (CONGEE & ME); KATHY TRAN (PETRA AND THE BEAST). FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK
FOLK T H E A N C H O R AG E PEPPERVINE
Detroit Greenville, SC Charlotte, NC
Slow-cooked ginger-and-garlic rice grits Carolina Gold rice congee with rock shrimp, Sichuan pork belly kimchi porridge
congee with braised pork belly XO sauce, and charred broccoli with chopped scallions

PORRIDGE + PUFFS LUCINDA GRAIN BAR M A DA M E V O B B Q

Los Angeles Seattle New York City
Soy-braised chicken-and-mushroom porridge Steel-cut oats and red quinoa porridge with Braised oxtail congee with honey butter,
with fried shallots and a soft-boiled egg pepita brittle, plum purée, and oat ice cream fish sauce, and scallions

Porridge, but
sliced!

B R E W E RY B H AVA N A CONGEE & ME PETRA AND THE BEAST

Raleigh, NC Boston Dallas
Chicken congee with cilantro, chili oil, and an Rice congee with smoked tofu, everything- Rolled-oats porridge terrine with pork,
egg hiding under a mound of fried garlic spice furikake, scallion oil, and a lazy egg shiitake mushrooms, and herby aspic jelly

38 – APRIL 2020
Photograph / Alina Tsvor

IMMER
SIVE
TRIPS
JUST F
OR
WOMEN

M E X I C O

WE’RE GOING TO MEXICO

a n d yo u c a n c o m e w i t h u s
c n t r a v e l e r. c o m / w w t t r i p s t o r e a d m o r e a n d b o o k
 A w a y – T h e L i t t l e Th i n g s

Laos by
Way of D.C.
The moment you walk into
Hanumanh, you’re transported
to Laos—and that’s the point
b y C H A N N A P H A K H A M V O N G SA

I T ’ S N O T M E R E L Y the sakoo yadsai,

tapioca dumplings stuffed with preserved
radish and peanut caramel, nor the salat
hua pii, spicy banana blossom salad, that
make Hanumanh in Washington, D.C.,
an unmistakably Lao restaurant. For chefs
(and mother-son duo) Seng Luangrath and
Boby Pradachith, that comes through the
physical space. “We thought a lot about
the materials and the design,” Pradachith
says. “We wanted to really show how Lao
people hang out.” The wall murals depict
the story of Hanuman, the famed Hindu
monkey god celebrated in Laos for his
strength and service as well as his appetite.
(He’s the restaurant’s namesake; they
added the h to differentiate from another
spot—popular guy!) The restaurant’s exte-
rior is designed to mimic the grand entrances
of Buddhist temples in Laos. And the go-to
kitchen gadget in the restaurant is a meticu-
lously researched kok and sak, or mortar
and pestle. Luangrath and Pradachith are
known for introducing Lao food to the D.C.
area over the past decade with no-frills
Padaek (formerly known as Bangkok
Golden), hot-ticket dinner spot Thip Khao,
and fast-casual Sen Khao. But with Hanu-
manh, it’s all about the vibes.
The Kok and Sak
“It’s like the jungle Vitamix,” Pradachith says
of this Lao kitchen workhorse. He had a short
but specific list of requirements for the one
used at Hanumanh: clay (the natural grit is
better for pounding ingredients), cone-shaped
(so everything can pool at the bottom), and
medium in size (for easier handling).

The Stenciling The Monkeys

Luangrath discovered To honor Hanuman
local artist Henley and infuse his
Bounkhong on, whimsical energy
yes, Instagram. After into every inch of
finding out he was the space, Luangrath
also Lao, she tapped and Pradachith have
him to design the hidden monkey-
restaurant’s entrance. centric designs all
He based his stencil over the restaurant,
patterns on stunning from the vibrant
temples in Luang decorative masks
Prabang, the heart on the wall to the
of Lao Buddhism. cocktail mugs.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY K AT E G R E WA L
 The Basket Lights
During Pradachith’s last visit
to Laos, he’d walk along the
Mekong River at sunset and
watch fishermen pull up their
bamboo fish traps from the
water. He loved how the light
reflected through the pear-
shaped traps and sought to
re-create that magical moment
by slipping bulbs into black
wicker baskets.

The Mural
For his playful fantastical
style, Bounkhong combines
Buddhist deities and mythical
creatures with cartoons he
grew up watching. Here he
sketched by hand and relied
on oil paints to create this
larger-than-life piece showing
Hanuman preparing and then
digging into a feast.

The Bar
Walk into any home in Laos and you’ll find plenty of
furniture and wood carvings made of mahogany, which
is native to the country. The hardwood has exposed
holes, which Pradachith commissioned local woodworker
Colonial Hardwoods to fill in with blue epoxy for the
restaurant’s custom bar counter. It reminds him of rainy
days in Laos and is the perfect backdrop for salat hua pii.

The Plates
Pradachith has a thing for antiquing.
He travels up and down the East
FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

Coast looking for one-of-a-kind

plateware that—if not Lao in origin—
is Lao in aesthetic. For example, the
gold-leaf-rimmed plates remind him The Cocktails
of the metallic bowls monks carry for While head bartender Al Thompson stocked the bar with
almsgiving. And thanks to a recent the Lao essentials—crisp rice-based Beerlao and Lao-style
Marie Kondo–level purge he did at whisky made with fermented sticky rice—he dipped into his
home, you can now see his eclectic own nostalgia for the drinking vessels, like this Stormtrooper
finds at Hanumanh. cookie jar repurposed for a gin-powered punch.

A P R I L 2 0 2 0 – 41
 Away – Highly Recommend

Your Spring Checklist

Our slightly obsessive picks for this month’s finest things to eat, drink, and buy

Digital Director
CAREY POLIS
on

The Perfect Cookie

Who would have thought that among
all the buttery biscuits and croissants
on offer at Levee Baking Co. in
New Orleans, my favorite thing would be
vegan? The salted chocolate olive oil
cookie has the ideal crispy outside and
chewy inside, due to an emulsion of
olive oil, oat milk, and sugar. Plus, it’s
aggressively chocolaty, in a good way.
Pastry chef Christina Balzebre sources
70 percent cacao Barataria Blend
chocolate from Acalli, a local bean-
to-bar company that uses no stabilizers
or lecithin. “I’m just obsessed with the
chocolate that we use,” she says. Same.

PHOTOGRAPHS: DINA AVILA (LAVKA); ROBIN ROSE HILLEARY (FLOWERS); DENNY CULBERT (COOKIE). FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
I’ve been counting down the days
until I could finally buy Kachka’s pelmeni.
Now I can, thanks to the little Eastern
Social Media European grocery that Bonnie and Israel
Manager

E M I LY
Morales opened above their Russian
SCHULTZ restaurant in Portland, Oregon. Lavka has
everything Bonnie grew up with—beet-cured
salmon, Georgian natural wines, pelmeni
(duh)—and it’s all going in my suitcase.

Dried pampas 1. G O W I L D 2. L I V E I N C O LO R 3. M I X I N
grass is camping up Pampas grass is Hilleary prefers L I V E P L A N TS
new NYC restaurants an invasive spiky- dyed grass for Dried pampas will
like Ernesto’s— stemmed species maximum impact. last for months,
as well as my own often found along Soak in food so Hilleary updates
Assistant
Editor apartment. Robin the beach. Run with coloring or natural arrangements by
Rose Hilleary, owner this information dye, then hang adding in textural
ALIZA
of Fleurotica and (just be sure to take upside down to dry plants like stiff palms
ABARBANEL
mastermind behind thick gloves and for at least a few and waxy anthurium.
on these arrangements, gardening shears), days for full feather Place them in a
shares her tips on or check out a local effect. Fluff, then cup of water inside
The Coolest replicating the look flower market, crafts finish with hairspray the vase to keep the
Florals for your home. store, or Etsy. to prevent shedding. pampas dry.

42 – APRIL 2020
 Th e R e a d

Will Write for Pasta

How holing up in a series of remote Airbnbs to work on my book and eat
noodles by the pot reminded me why I write in the first place
by J I A TO L E N T I N O

ABOUT TWO AND A HALF YEARS AGO, I decided it would for more than 45 minutes I’ll lose my health insurance,
be a good idea to write a book on the side of my full- bring a curse upon my loved ones, get into an exciting
time job as a writer (or as I prefer to say, blogger) for freak accident, and then die.
the New Yorker. But after about a month of trying to activate my book
In retrospect, I should have planned to take some muscles when I was—to use a rather old-fashioned
time off work, but in defense of my own stupidity—a phrase—“done with work for the day,” I realized that
good subtitle for a book, come to think of it—I can only my attempts to demarcate one project from another
say that, like any other millennial who lacks the were (at best) not working and (if I’m being real) ter-
weighted blanket of family money, I understand the ribly sad. Techniques such as “washing my face at 4
world I came of age in as a sort of Luigi’s Mansion of p.m.” and “changing from day sweatpants into night
institutional collapse and economic precariousness. sweatpants” radiated desperation and unconvincing
Even now I feel fairly certain that if I ever stop working performance. It was like putting a checkout divider
44 – APRIL 2020 I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY C L AY H I C KS O N
 n w
ddh
wl

Get this
recipe at
t ed e e sunsetgrown.com
®/™ are trademarks of Mastronardi Produce Limited. © 2020 Mastronardi Produce Limited. All rights reserved.
 Th e R e a d

between a wedge of aged Gouda and a bottle of spooky rental property in the hills around Min-
Clorox when the cashier at the grocery store def- newaska State Park, reading chemical analyses of
initely knows I’m going to ingest both of them the MDMA molecule, and trying not to get freaked
later that night. out by the lack of phone service. It was a relief to
And so I concluded, as many have before me, focus my attention on something right in front of
that the solution involved getting out of the city. me: celery and carrots, browning to caramel for a
Such was the genesis of the only real writing rit- white wine Bolognese.
ual that I’ve ever developed: taking the Metro-
North to Poughkeepsie on a Thursday afternoon,
renting a car near the train station, picking up
groceries, driving to the cheapest place I could
w ITHOUT THESE TRIPS I’d never have
finished my book, mainly because I
would have lost my grip on the reason
find on Airbnb with a woodstove and a kitchen, I wanted to write it in the first place. Under-
and spending the next four days subsisting on a neath the structural conditions that I spend my
healthy variety of marijuana edibles and a strong professional life both objecting and yielding to,
third to half-pound of pasta per meal. writing is fundamentally a matter of pleasure
I’m not kidding when I say this routine made for me. More than that, it’s a comfort. It is the
me feel like Gwyneth Paltrow. To me it was a self-perpetuating solace of discovering, over
secret pinnacle of spiritual, emotional, and phys- and over, that you don’t need much—you hardly
ical wellness. It was a cross between a boot camp need any equipment, you can get it done in
and a slacker’s vacation. It was hiking in the sun- strange places—to be satisfied, or even, occa-
light and muttering “whoa” after 12 minutes of sionally, thrilled.
staring at embers and grinding black pepper out Of course, the same goes for making and eating
of a stranger’s sky-blue ceramic pepper mill into pasta. And on these weekends, the two became
a shimmering lake of olive oil inside an unfamil- When you’ve parallel acts for me. I grated parm with a high-
iar dented pan. spent all day lighter in my mouth; I inhaled rigatoni the way I
In my favorite of all these tiny backyard guest- wading was working—until it was too much, but the good
houses, the lights were warm and low in the through the kind of too much, and it was time to go to bed.
kitchen; the table was just big enough for two red swamp of There are many ways, too, in which making
placemats and a candle; there were old pennants your own pasta is a far better pastime than writing. Every
hanging on the walls and owls hooting in the time I “get my materials together” for a piece, I
inadequacies,
yard. I grated myself a soft snow pile of Pecorino, seem to end up spending two hours on the Wiki-
there’s no
shook it over a swirled nest of spaghetti, and pedia page for Smilodons, which, as we all know,
served myself a huge bowl of sharp, indulgent absolution like are the most famous prehistoric saber-toothed
cacio e pepe. I slurped, splattering sauce on Anna spaghetti cats, reaching up to 880 pounds in their largest
Karenina, which was open to the part where dripping in iteration. But I can get in and out of a Hannaford
Oblonsky was ordering roast beef and oysters, pepper and supermarket with everything I need for sausage-
and remembered how I could avalanche myself cheese. and-broccoli orecchiette in six minutes flat.
with pleasure if I tried. Every time I sit down to write something, I
understand that the likely outcome is that it’s

t HESE WEEKENDS, which I took at

the beginning of each month, were the
full expression of all the compulsions
going to be awful. Conversely, after you’ve made
a pasta once, you’ll probably get better at it.
Unlike with writing, pasta will only ever be more
within me that are unshareable by definition: to precisely like what you wanted it to be. When
be lavishly alone; to eat in priestly silence; to stay you’ve spent all day wading through the swamp
up late reading; to think in the morning and of your own inadequacies, there’s no absolution
write all night. Each trip was similar—the train, like spaghetti dripping in pepper and cheese.
the car, the work, the pasta—but each thing was And it was the spaghetti that reminded me,
a little different every time. before the writing did, that the way we do things
Once in October, it was raining, and I got a matters. If we cook the way we want to, we eat
splinter walking barefoot across the rough wood the way we want to. If something is absorbing to
floor. I started a fire in the early afternoon, and produce, it will be absorbing to consume. And
made spaghetti carbonara my favorite way, slip- even if you don’t end up with anything you ever
ping a molehill of garlic into the eggs. I chopped want to share with other people, you’ll still have
Parmesan with a knife because I couldn’t find a made something—and this is all you can hope
grater, crisped bacon in quantities I would’ve for—for yourself.
had to explain had anyone else been present, and
finished the whole pot in a day and a half. Jia Tolentino is a staff writer at the New Yorker.
A few months later, in January, it was bluebird Her first book, the essay collection Trick Mirror,
skies and frosty. I was staying at an impersonal, is available now.

46 – APRIL 2020
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 a basically guide to better baking

Butter Sugar
Flour Magic
Food trends come and go, but this combo is forever. Behold, our timeless advice—and very
2020 recipes—for making your baking as cool, successful, and photogenic as you are
 SAW, D O N ’ T S L I C E
Use a serrated knife to cut these
into neat squares: A chef’s
knife, no matter how sharp, will
smoosh the layers.

Tahini Billionaire Bars

p . 60

r e c i p e s b y M O L LY B A Z , S O H L A E L - W AY L LY, A N D S A R A H J A M P E L
p h o t o g r a p h s b y L A U R A M U R R AY
When Two Desserts Love Each Other…
Here’s what happened after carrot cake met carrot halwa,
the milky, long-cooking, spoonably-soft confection common
in South Asia. Raisins, cinnamon, and cream cheese frosting
made way for brown-butter pistachios, cardamom, and
sticky carrot glaze and the rest of their romance was history.

There’s more! At
eatbasically.com
/baking, you’ll
find ALL the recipes
and advice.

ALL-PURPOSE Sure, you can strong-arm your El e c t roni c sc al e Oven therm o mete r
ADVICE way through a recipe without The tidiest and most A polygraph for your
GET YOUR these. But will they make the accurate way to oven, it’s the best
GEAR process easier, faster, and less measure “the dries” way to know if the
IN ORDER frustrating? Yes, yes, and yes. (e.g., flour, sugar). dial tells the truth.

50
 B OT TO M S U P
For a smooth, flat surface and
dramatic drippage, turn out the
cake and frost the bottom, whether IN THE FOLD
that’s with caramel, ganache, In this cake, as in most,
or, in this case, carrot glaze. be gentle with the flour: Use
a rubber spatula to fold it
in, making broad strokes
down the middle of the bowl
and up around the sides,
and stop as soon as the
dry bits disappear. Being
too aggressive leads to
excess gluten development
and tight, tough cake.

Cardamom-
Pistachio
Carrot Cake
p . 60

Roll in g p i n B owl /benc h scra per R ubb er sp atula Pa str y b rush

Allows for more A plastic one can Better than a wooden Natural bristles make
consistency and manage sticky dough; spoon at reaching easy work of oiling a
control than your a strong metal one corners and crevices pan or brushing
empty wine bottle. excels at portioning. (easier to clean too). biscuits with butter.

51
 T H E WA I T I N G I S T H E
H A R D E S T PA RT
Even if you can’t resist
eating a couple hot out
of the oven, let the rest
cool completely for the
chewiest texture and most
pronounced flavor.

Salt y
Buckwheat
Chocolate P R O D U C T P L AC E M E N T
Chunk Cookies
For eye -catching cookies,
p . 61
reserve a handful of chocolate
chunks for cramming into the
top of each ball before baking
so that they stay on the surface.
Cookies
Love
Buckwheat
The quest for
great chocolate
chip cookies
never ends, and
buckwheat flour
is our latest
muse. It creates
a cookie with all
of the qualities
you seek in the Sour Cream
and Onion
classic—chewy- Biscuits
gooey centers, p . 61
crisp edges,
and nutty,
buttery, toasty
flavor—but to
an even greater
degree. Track it
down, then use
the remainder
for pancakes,
waffles, and,
yes, even
more cookies.

Lean Into the Layers

Many biscuit recipes count on pockets of
ALL-PURPOSE
ADVICE butter and an angel’s touch for pull-apart
T H E WAY Y O U
MEASURE flakiness. But we’re not willing to leave
FLOUR MAT TERS
it to chance. Our simple folding technique
manually multiplies the number of layers
for guaranteed no-risk success.
A scale will provide
the most accurate
measurement (buy one!),
but when it’s not
an option, follow the
spoon-and-level
method: Use a fork to
rake through your
flour, spoon it gently
into a cup, then level
with the back of a knife.
If you dip-and-scoop,
you’ll get heavier, more
compact cups—and, Bring the short sides into Pat back down to the Repeat the fold-and-pat
consequently, denser the middle, hoisting one flap original thickness—the dough once more, then cut into
cakes and drier cookies. over the other. will come together as you go. squares (look, no scraps!).

53
Requires Little Skill
but Lots of Olive Oil
If you want to be a person who makes your
own bread, focaccia is the starting line.
There’s no kneading, shaping, or mysterious
starter involved, yet it emerges from the MESS-
P R OT E C T I O N P L A N

oven bubbled, bronzed, and ready to To catch spills, rogue

ingredients, and
tear apart. Next stop, sourdough? sprinkles of flour, cover
your counter with
a kitchen towel before
you start measuring
and mixing.

ALL-PURPOSE Parchment ensures your Use a pen to trace the Cut the arc, then unfold
ROUND

ADVICE creation releases with bottom of the pan onto the paper to reveal
FOR A

PA R C H M E N T no begging/pleading, parchment. Fold the circle a perfect circle. Place

PA P E R , O U R and trimming it to fit is in half three times to pen side down in your
S AV I O R easier than it seems: make a slender segment. greased pan.

54
 F E A R N OT T H E Y E A S T
If your yeast is dead, your bread
won’t rise. Make sure it isn’t expired
and keep a few extra packets
on hand: If the first one doesn’t
foam when mixed with lukewarm
water and honey, try again.
D I M P L E S , D I V OTS ,
DELIGHT
Focaccia’s characteristic
hills and valleys come from
Shockingly Easy
handling the dough like you’re
No-Knead Focaccia rocking out on a keyboard.
p . 62 For impressions that stick,
dimple just before you bake.

Tear a piece of parchment Place the two rectangles Once your brownies/
that’s about the size in the greased pan bars are baked and
FOR A
9 X 9"

of a baking sheet. Fold in opposite directions cooled, use the excess

lengthwise, then slice so you have a generous parchment as a
into two 13x9" rectangles. handle on every side. sling to lift them out.

55
 The Get-
Out-of-Bed-
Fast Buns
When you
accidentally
agreed to host
brunch, bake
these. They’re
filled with date
purée, finished
with vanilla
glaze, and the
bulk of the labor
is done in a
food processor
the night before.

Camouflage
Chocolate
Fudge Brownies
When you first place
p . 62 the swirls in the pan,
space them evenly.

Brownies in Disguise
The only “problem” with ultra-fudgy brownies
is the monotony: rich, rich, rich. To break
up the intensity, hide them in a layer of
tangy, cooling cream cheese. Not only
does it make it easier to go back for
As they proof, they
seconds, it also gets you a ’70s-chic pattern. snuggle up so that they
grow taller rather than
wider in the oven.

When a recipe But te r E ggs

specifies room-temp Microwave a whole Place whole eggs in
dairy or eggs, stick, still wrapped, a medium bowl, then
take notice. Chilled in 10-second fill with warm tap
butter won’t properly increments, turning water and let them
cream; cold eggs over between each hang out as you prep.
can cause batter zap, or cut into
ALL-PURPOSE to curdle and 1" cubes and place Crea m/M il k
ADVICE collapse; and the list in a single layer Microwave in
ROOM goes on. Luckily, on a plate near a 10-second
TEMPER ATURE these work-arounds preheating oven, increments or heat Brush with glaze while
IS NOT help chilly ingredients monitoring closely in a small saucepan they’re warm so that it can
OPTIONAL catch up fast: so they don’t melt. over low. soak into all the crannies.

56
 SPRING TIME
To check to see if your
buns are ready to bake,
prod them with a finger: If
the dough springs back
quickly, give the buns more
time; if it springs back
slowly, they’re ready to roar.

SPECKLED AND
FRECKLED
Vanilla bean paste
is responsible for the
cute flecks, but
extract offers the
same flavor.

Cinnamon-
Date
Sticky Buns
p . 63
 C O LO R E Q U A L S F L AVO R
Your crust isn’t properly baked until it’s the color
of a well-worn penny. If your timer dings
but the dough is pale, keep going: Bake to the
indicator (“deep golden brown”), not the time.

Triple -Threat
Onion Galet te
EXTREME BIAS
Cutting the scallions on a
sharp diagonal creates striking
oblique disks. Nervous
about your knife skills? Simply
slice crosswise.

58
Pie for Triple-Threat Onion Galette fold. Using rolling pin, gently flatten
M A K E S O N E 12 "- D I A M E T E R GA L E T T E dough, rotating as needed, to make a
Dinner
The key to this flaky galette crust is to move 6"-diameter disk.
Who says fast! Rolling and folding the dough before Dust surface with more flour and roll
baking’s gotta be the butter has a chance to warm up creates disk into a 14"-diameter circle or oval
sweet? Packed distinct layers of butter and dough that will about ⅛" thick. Fold dough in half, then
steam apart during baking, becoming light in half again to make a rough triangle
with crispy and flaky. For more alliums-as-the-star (this will make it easier to move). Slide
scallions, sautéed recipes, see “All In on Alliums” on p. 64. onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and
onions, sharp unfold. Chill while you make the filling.
DOUGH D O A H E A D : Dough can be made
mustard, and
1 Tbsp. sugar 3 days ahead. Wrap 6" disk tightly and
parm, this tart 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. chill until ready to roll out.
is as savory Morton kosher salt
as it gets. Add 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour, plus ASS E M B LY Place a rack in middle of

a fried egg more for dusting oven; preheat to 375°. Heat 3 Tbsp.
12 Tbsp. (1½ sticks) chilled unsalted butter in a medium skillet over medium
and leftovers butter, cut into ½" pieces until foaming, about 1 minute. Reduce
are breakfast. heat to medium-low; add onion, garlic,
ASS E M B LY and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided Morton salt, and stir to combine. Cover
1 large onion, thinly sliced and cook, stirring occasionally, until
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced onion is tender and just beginning to
1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. brown, 6–8 minutes. Uncover and
Morton kosher salt, divided continue to cook, stirring occasionally
12 scallions, thinly sliced on a deep and adding a splash of water if onion
diagonal begins to stick, until golden brown in
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard spots, about 5 minutes more. Transfer
2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated onion mixture to a plate; reserve skillet.
(about 2 cups) Melt remaining 1 Tbsp. butter in
For a neat and tidy
galette, make slashes
Freshly ground black pepper reserved skillet (no need to wipe out)
from the edge of the over medium heat. Remove from heat and
filling to the edge of the DOUGH Whisk sugar, salt, and 1½ cups add scallions and remaining ½ tsp.
dough every few inches. flour in a medium bowl to combine. Add Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher
butter and toss to combine. Using your salt. Toss scallions until coated in butter.
hands and working quickly, rub and Remove dough from refrigerator and,
smash butter into flat, irregular pieces using a small offset spatula or a spoon,
(be careful not to overwork; you don’t spread mustard in a thin layer over
want to soften the butter too much).1 dough, leaving a 1½"–2" border around
Drizzle ⅓ cup cold water over and mix the edges. Scatter onion mixture over
with a rubber spatula, smashing in butter, mustard and sprinkle with Parmesan;
until dough mostly comes together—it will season with pepper. Cutting from edge
be dry and shaggy. of dough to the start of the mustard and
Turn out dough onto a lightly floured filling, make slits in border of galette at
surface. Working quickly and using a 2"–3" intervals.3 Fold flaps up and over
As you fold over the rolling pin and your hands, press dough filling, slightly overlapping. Scatter
sections, they’ll overlap, together to form a mass.2 Roll dough into scallions over. Bake galette until crust is
forming charming pleats.
a rough square about ½" thick. Fold in deep golden brown and scallions are
half into a rectangle, then once again to lightly charred, 45–50 minutes. Using
make a small square. Press down on the parchment paper, slide galette onto a
dough with rolling pin to make it hold cutting board and cut into wedges.
together. Roll dough out once more to D O A H E A D : Onion can be cooked
make a rough square about ½" thick. 3 days ahead; transfer to an airtight
Repeat folding process, taking your time container, then cover and chill. Galette
to make it neat as this will be your final can be assembled 1 hour ahead; chill.

Pile on the scallions 1–If the butter is 2–The dough will seem like a 3–Cutting the slits is
last, with some kissing getting too warm, crumbly dry mess at first but will optional but makes
the outer crust—they’ll throw the bowl into come together as you fold and for a more beautiful
adhere as they bake. the fridge or freezer. roll. Have faith and don’t give up. presentation.

59
Tahini Billionaire Bars While the
B U T T E R S C O T C H A N D ASS E M B LY 1¾ tsp. baking powder
MAKES 25–36 We took millionaire bars— shortbread is cooling, heat brown sugar ¼ tsp. baking soda
shortbread plus caramel plus chocolate— and butter, whisking constantly, in a heavy 1½ tsp. ground cardamom
and gave them an upgrade (hence, medium saucepan over medium until ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
billions) with sesame seeds and tahini. The butter is melted and sugar is dissolved, 1¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp.
shortbread is tender, the filling is gooey, about 3 minutes. Whisk in cream and salt. Morton kosher salt
and the chocolate ties it all together. Bring to a boil and cook, whisking 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour
constantly, until butterscotch is thick
S H O RT B R E A D enough to coat a spoon (bubbling will G L A Z E A N D ASS E M B LY
Nonstick cooking oil spray or become less frequent), about 5 minutes. ½ cup carrot juice
vegetable oil (for pan) Remove from heat, add tahini and vanilla ½ cup heavy cream
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour and whisk until incorporated and smooth. ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
¾ cup (83 g) powdered sugar Pour butterscotch over shortbread and ¼ tsp. kosher salt
⅓ cup toasted sesame seeds tilt pan to distribute evenly. Chill until set, 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. 30–40 minutes.
Morton kosher salt Melt chocolate in a microwave-safe CAKE Place a rack in middle of oven;
½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, bowl in the microwave in 40-second preheat to 350°. Lightly coat bottom and
cut into ½" pieces increments, stirring between bursts. sides of a 9"-diameter cake pan with oil.
2 large egg yolks (Alternatively, place chocolate in a Line bottom of pan with a round of
heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of parchment paper and smooth to
B U T T E R S C O T C H A N D ASS E M B LY gently simmering water; bowl should not eliminate any air bubbles.
1¼ cups (packed; 250 g) light brown touch water. Heat, stirring often, until Grate carrots on the large holes of a
sugar melted and smooth.) Pour over box grater. Measure out 2½ cups (lightly
½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, butterscotch and spread evenly to edges packed; 250 g); reserve remaining
cut into 8 equal pieces of pan; sprinkle with sesame seeds. Chill carrots for another use (like raita!).
¾ cup heavy cream until chocolate is firm, 1–2 hours. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Using parchment paper overhang, measuring glass and place next to stove.
Morton kosher salt pull bars out of pan and set on a cutting Heat butter in a medium saucepan over
½ cup tahini4 board; remove parchment. Using a medium until foaming, about 2 minutes.
1 tsp. vanilla extract serrated knife, slice into 25–36 pieces Add pistachios and cook, stirring often,
6 oz. bittersweet chocolate (5–6 cuts in each direction). Bring to until butter browns and nuts smell toasty,
(65%–75% cacao), coarsely room temperature before serving. about 5 minutes. (Butter will get very
chopped D O A H E A D : Bars can be made 4 days foamy and it will be hard to see what’s
Toasted sesame seeds (for serving) ahead. Store airtight at room temperature. going on, so once the foam is golden
brown, remove pan from heat every
Place a rack in middle of
S H O RT B R E A D 10 seconds to check how the nuts are
oven; preheat to 350°. Lightly coat a Cardamom-Pistachio browning.) Pour mixture through
9x9" or 8x8" baking pan, preferably Carrot Cake prepared sieve, scraping in all of the
metal, with nonstick spray. Line with MAKES ONE 9"-DIAME TER CAKE Take your browned bits; set nuts and butter aside.
parchment paper, leaving overhang on time when streaming the butter into the Crack eggs into a large bowl; add
all sides. Whisk flour, powdered sugar, egg and sugar mixture—you want to brown sugar, granulated sugar, baking
sesame seeds, and salt in a medium create an emulsion, as when making a powder, baking soda, cardamom,
bowl. Add butter and toss to coat. Using vinaigrette. If you go too quickly, you’ll cinnamon, and salt. Using an electric
your hands, work in butter until pieces end up with a greasy batter. mixer on high speed, beat 3 minutes
are about pea-size. Using a rubber (mixture should be thick, pale, and
spatula, mix in yolks. (Dough should hold CAKE increased in volume). Decrease speed to
together when squeezed.) Vegetable oil (for pan) medium-high and gradually stream in
Scrape dough into prepared pan and 3 medium carrots, peeled reserved brown butter (including
gently press into an even layer (lightly 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut browned bits); beat until combined.
flour your hands if needed). Prick dough into pieces Coarsely chop reserved pistachios. Using
with a fork in several spots (this will help 1 cup (130 g) raw pistachios a rubber spatula, fold in flour until almost
it stay flat as it bakes). 3 large eggs, room temperature5 completely combined, then add nuts and
Bake shortbread until golden brown, 1 cup (packed; 200 g) dark brown carrots and continue to fold until
24–28 minutes (or up to 35 minutes if sugar everything is incorporated. Scrape batter
using a glass dish). Let cool slightly. ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar into prepared pan; smooth surface. Place

4–Tahini has a tendency to separate. 5–Compared with 6–When in doubt, it’s better to 7–Don’t be tempted
Take a moment to give it a thorough cold eggs, room-temp slightly overbake this cake than to to stir: The layer of
stir with a butter knife or mini offset eggs gain more take it out too early. If underbaked, sugar insulates the
spatula before you measure. volume when whipped. it will sink in the center. cream from the heat.

60
pan on a clean smooth surface and give ½ cup (63 g) buckwheat flour8 Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets
it a fast 360-degree spin (this pushes the ½ tsp. baking powder top to bottom and front to back halfway
batter up the sides of the pan and ½ tsp. baking soda through, until edges are golden brown
minimizes doming during baking). 1¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. and centers are puffed, 8–10 minutes.11
Bake cake until deeply browned and a Morton kosher salt; plus more Working one at a time, pull baking
tester inserted into the center comes out (optional) sheets out of the oven and tap lightly on
clean, 50–55 minutes.6 Let cake cool in ⅔ cup (packed; 133 g) light brown the stove to deflate cookies. Sprinkle
pan. Run a small offset spatula or butter sugar with Diamond Crystal kosher salt (if
knife around perimeter of cake to loosen. ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar you’re using Morton, skip it: the crystals
Place a plate upside down over cake 1 large egg are too large). Let cookies cool on
and invert cake onto plate (leave flat side 2 large egg yolks9 baking sheets 5 minutes, then transfer to
up). Remove parchment paper. 1 tsp. vanilla extract wire racks and let cool completely.
D O A H E A D : Cake can be baked 1 day 6 oz. bittersweet chocolate Let baking sheets cool, then turn
ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room (65%–75% cacao) bars or wafers parchment paper over. Repeat process
temperature. (disks, pistoles, fèves), coarsely with remaining dough, dividing evenly
chopped between baking sheets, to make 6–8
G L A Z E A N D ASS E M B LYPlace a small more cookies.
plate in the freezer. Cook carrot juice, Heat butter in a small saucepan over the D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked
cream, granulated sugar, and salt in a lowest heat possible until melted (you 3 days ahead. Let cool; store airtight at
small saucepan over high heat (do not don’t want it to sputter or brown), about room temperature.
stir)7 until thick like lava, 8–10 minutes. 5 minutes.
Mixture will initially bubble and foam Meanwhile, whisk both flours, baking
vigorously and look like it’s going to boil powder, baking soda, and 1¼ tsp. Sour Cream and Onion
over, but it won’t! Don’t be tempted to Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton Biscuits
reduce the heat; the bubbling will subside kosher salt in a medium bowl. MAKES 8 Sour cream isn’t just a gimmick.
and mixture will thicken. You want it to be Scrape butter into a large bowl and Used in place of the more typical cream
thick enough to stick to the cake, but do add brown sugar and granulated sugar. or buttermilk, it adds a rich, tangy flavor,
not let it brown. Test glaze by putting a Whisk vigorously until butter is absorbed and its acidity helps make the biscuits
small dollop onto the cold plate: When into sugar, about 30 seconds. Add egg, incredibly tender.
you run your finger through the glaze, it then egg yolks, one at a time, whisking to
should leave a defined trail. combine after each addition; whisk in 2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp.
Once the glaze is thick enough, vanilla. Mixture should look much lighter Morton kosher salt
remove pan from heat and stir in butter. in color and be almost creamy. 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Let cool until you can comfortably hold Add dry ingredients and use a rubber 1¾ tsp. baking powder
your finger in it (if it’s too hot, it will run spatula or wooden spoon to stir until just ½ tsp. baking soda
right off the cake), about 15 minutes. incorporated and almost no dry streaks 1¼ tsp. sugar
Stir glaze well and pour over center remain. Set aside a handful of chocolate, 2½ cups (313 g) all-purpose flour,
of cake, nudging to the edges with offset then add remaining chocolate to batter. plus more for surface
spatula or butter knife. Pop any air Gently mix just to evenly distribute. 10 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut
bubbles with a toothpick. Let glaze cool Cover bowl with a kitchen towel (a into ½" pieces, plus 2 Tbsp. melted
at least 10 minutes before slicing cake. silicone lid or plastic wrap also works) 8 scallions, thinly sliced crosswise
and chill 2 hours. (not on a diagonal)
Place racks in upper and lower thirds 1¼ cups sour cream, plus more for
Salty Buckwheat Chocolate of oven; preheat to 375°. Line 2 baking serving
Chunk Cookies sheets with parchment. Using a Flaky sea salt
M A K E S 16 – 18If you want to bake these tablespoon, scoop out 2-Tbsp. portions
cookies now and don’t have buckwheat of dough (or, if you have one, this is a Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat
flour on hand, whole wheat flour is an leveled-off #30 cookie scoop or a to 425°. Whisk salt, pepper, baking
acceptable substitute. Your cookies won’t heaping #40) and place 5 on each powder, baking soda, sugar, and
have the same depth of flavor, but they baking sheet, spacing evenly.10 Roll into 2½ cups flour in a large bowl to combine.
will still be delicious. balls and gently press 2–3 pieces of Add chilled butter and toss to coat.
reserved chocolate onto the top of each Using your hands, work butter into dry
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut one. It’s okay to jam the chocolate on ingredients until there are lots of flat
into 8 equal pieces there—some pieces can even be vertical. pieces and pea-size bits. Add scallions
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour Cover and chill any remaining dough. and toss to evenly distribute.

8–Buckwheat flours can vary in hue 9–The extra egg yolks 10 –Avoid eyeballing the scoop size 11–Pull at 8 if you like
and consistency, and that’s okay. We provide the cookies or squeezing in more than 5 per sheet: cookies soft and want
tested with Bob’s Red Mill, which is with their velvety, Otherwise, they may spread together to guarantee they’re
light-colored and finely ground. almost fudgy, centers. (not tragic, but not gorgeous). pliable the next day.

61
 Create a well in the center of mixture Pour 4 Tbsp. oil into the biggest bowl Camouflage Chocolate
and add 1¼ cups sour cream into the that will fit in your refrigerator. Transfer Fudge Brownies
center. Using a fork and working in dough to bowl and turn to coat in oil. M A K E S 16
The secret to the fudgiest, most
circles, mix until large shaggy clumps Cover with a silicone lid or plastic wrap chocolaty brownies is cocoa powder—
form. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured and chill until dough is doubled in size not melted chocolate. We borrowed
surface and knead once or twice until it (it should look very bubbly and alive), chocolate expert Alice Medrich’s
comes together (flour your hands if at least 8 hours and up to 1 day. technique, then added a cream cheese
needed).12 If there are any loose bits, Generously butter a 13x9" baking topping for tangy balance. Don’t stress
add them to center of dough and knead pan (for thicker focaccia that’s perfect about your camo design; the brownies
once more to incorporate. Pat dough for sandwiches) or an 18x13" rimmed will look even better when sliced.
into an 8x4" rectangle about 1" thick. baking sheet. Pour 1 Tbsp. oil into center
Working from a short side, fold dough of pan.14 Keeping the dough in the Nonstick cooking oil spray or
in thirds as you would a letter. It doesn’t bowl, gather up edges of dough farthest room-temperature unsalted butter
need to overlap perfectly. Pat dough into from you and lift up and over into center (for pan)
another 8x4" rectangle, then fold dough of bowl. Give the bowl a quarter turn 8 oz. cream cheese (not low-fat), cut
in thirds like a letter one more time. Pat and repeat process. Do this 2 more into 1" pieces
dough back into an 8x4" rectangle and times; you want to deflate dough while 3 large eggs, chilled
cut in half lengthwise. Cut each half you form it into a rough ball. (Using a 1⅓ cups (266 g) sugar, divided
crosswise into 4 squares for a total of fork in each hand makes this process 1 tsp. vanilla extract, divided
8 biscuits. even easier and less messy!) ¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided
Transfer biscuits to a parchment-lined Transfer dough to prepared pan. Pour 1½ tsp. plus ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp.
baking sheet. Brush tops gently with any oil left in bowl over the dough and cocoa powder, preferably
melted butter; sprinkle with sea salt. Bake coat it in oil. Let rise, uncovered, in a dry, Dutch-process16
biscuits until golden brown, 18–22 warm spot until doubled in size, at least 10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into
minutes. Serve warm with sour cream (or 1½ hours and up to 4 hours. To see if it’s pieces
more butter!) for slathering.13 ready, poke the dough with your finger. 1 tsp. instant espresso powder
The dough should spring back slowly, (optional)
leaving a small visible indentation. If it ½ cup (63 g) all-purpose flour
Shockingly Easy springs back quickly, the dough isn’t
No-Knead Focaccia ready. (If at this point the dough is ready Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat
10 – 12 S E RV I N G SLetting the dough do its to bake but you aren’t, you can chill it up to 325°. Lightly coat a 9x9" pan,
first rise in the fridge overnight means to 1 hour.) preferably metal, with nonstick spray.
improved flavor and ease of handling, Place a rack in middle of oven; Line with parchment paper, leaving
but if you don’t feel like waiting that long, preheat to 450°. Lightly oil your hands. If overhang on all sides. Lightly coat
leave it out at room temperature until using a rimmed baking sheet, gently parchment with nonstick spray. Place
doubled in size—three to four hours. stretch out dough to fill (you may not cream cheese in a medium heatproof
need to do this if using a baking pan). bowl set over a medium saucepan of
1 ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast Dimple focaccia all over with your barely simmering water (do not let bowl
(about 2¼ tsp.) fingers, as if you’re aggressively playing touch water). Heat cream cheese, stirring
2 tsp. honey the piano, creating very deep occasionally, until very soft, about
5 cups (625 g) all-purpose flour depressions in the dough.15 Drizzle with 5 minutes. Remove bowl from heat (leave
5 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. remaining 1 Tbsp. oil and sprinkle with water simmering). Using a heatproof
Morton kosher salt sea salt. Bake focaccia until puffed and rubber spatula or wooden spoon, smash
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, golden brown all over, 20–30 minutes. and mix cream cheese until smooth. Add
plus more for hands Melt 4 Tbsp. butter in a small 1 egg, ⅓ cup (66 g) sugar, ½ tsp.
Flaky sea salt saucepan over medium heat. Remove vanilla, and ¼ tsp. salt and whisk until
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, plus more from heat and grate in garlic (use very smooth. Transfer about half of
for pan 2 cloves if you’re garlic-shy or up to cream cheese mixture to a small bowl
2–4 garlic cloves 4 if you love it). Return to medium heat and whisk in 1½ tsp. cocoa powder.
and cook, stirring often, until garlic is just Place butter in another medium
Whisk yeast, honey, and 2½ cups lightly toasted, about 45 seconds. Brush heatproof bowl. Add espresso powder
lukewarm water in a medium bowl and garlic butter all over focaccia. If you (if using) and remaining 1 cup (200 g)
let sit 5 minutes. Add flour and salt; mix don’t want to serve the focaccia sugar, ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. cocoa
with a rubber spatula until a shaggy immediately, hold off on brushing so it powder, and ½ tsp. salt. Place bowl over
dough forms and no dry streaks remain. remains crisp. saucepan of still simmering water and

12–If your bowl is wide enough, you 13–These are at their 14 –Buttering may seem like overkill 15–Press your fingers
can knead the dough once or twice peak when they’re (there’s all that oil, right?), but it all the way to the
inside it for ease before transferring warm out of the oven. helps the focaccia unlatch rather than bottom of the pan
to the work surface. Plan accordingly. stick to the pan’s bottom and sides. when you dimple.

62
 cook, stirring occasionally once the ½ tsp. kosher salt Drain dates and transfer to a food
butter starts to melt, until mixture is 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided processor; discard soaking liquid. Add
homogeneous and too hot to leave your ¼ cup (packed; 50 g) dark brown cinnamon, salt, and 2 Tbsp. oil. Purée,
finger in, 7–9 minutes. Let cool sugar scraping down sides as needed, until
5 minutes. ¾ cup (83 g) powdered sugar smooth, about 4 minutes. (You should
Add remaining 2 eggs and remaining 3 Tbsp. buttermilk or plain have about ½ cup purée.)
½ tsp. vanilla to butter mixture one at a whole-milk yogurt Grease a 10" cast-iron skillet with
time, whisking vigorously after each 1 tsp. vanilla paste or extract remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. Transfer dough to
addition until smooth and glossy. Add a clean, unfloured surface and roll out to
flour and mix with spatula or spoon until DOUGH Combine buttermilk and 6 Tbsp. an 8" square. Fold in half into an 8x4"
no longer visible, then vigorously mix oil in a small microwave-safe bowl (it rectangle, then fold rectangle over itself
another 30 strokes. Scoop out ½ cup won’t get smooth and that’s okay) and to form a 4" square (same folding
brownie batter and set aside. Scrape heat in the microwave in three 10-second process as you did before). If dough
remaining batter into prepared pan and bursts until just about body temperature (it feels tough and uncooperative, let it sit
spread into an even layer.17 shouldn’t feel hot or cold to the touch); an about 5 minutes to relax and try again.
Working quickly, alternate dollops of instant-read thermometer will register Roll out dough to a 12" square about
cocoa–cream cheese mixture and cream about 98°. (Alternatively, you can heat ¼" thick. Dollop date purée all over.
cheese mixture over batter. Dollop in a small saucepan over medium-low, Using a small offset spatula, spread
reserved batter on top (it will be quite stirring constantly, about 1 minute.) evenly over dough, leaving a ½" border
thick). Don’t worry if your design looks Whisk egg, brown sugar, and yeast in without purée along edge farthest from
random and spotted. a liquid measuring cup to combine, then you. Sprinkle brown sugar over purée.
Bake brownies until center is set and whisk into buttermilk mixture. Starting at edge closest to you, roll up
no longer looks wet, 22–25 minutes. Pulse flour, baking soda, and salt in a dough into a tight log. Using a sharp
Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool. food processor to combine. With the serrated knife and long sawing motions,
Using parchment paper overhang, lift motor running, stream in buttermilk trim about ½" of dough from both ends
brownies out of pan and transfer to a mixture. Process until about 80% of the and discard. Slice log crosswise into
cutting board. Remove parchment paper dough comes together into a ball 3 sections, wiping knife clean between
and cut into sixteen 2¼" squares, wiping (mixture will look very wet at first, then slices. Slice each section crosswise into
knife clean between slices. begin to pull away from the sides of 3 buns (you should have 9 buns total
processor), about 2 minutes. that are each about 1" thick). Transfer
BAKE THE COVER
Using a bowl scraper or rubber buns to prepared pan as you go.
spatula, scrape dough onto an unfloured Cover pan tightly with foil (or a
Cinnamon-Date Sticky Buns surface. (It should still be pretty wet and domed lid if you have one) and place in
MAKES 9 These fluffy buttermilk rolls are sticky.) Knead, pushing it away from you, a warm, dry spot. Let buns rise until
filled with a cinnamon-scented date then pulling it back toward you, until a they’re doubled in volume and spring
purée to capture all that sticky bun glory smooth ball forms, about 3 minutes.18 back when poked, leaving only a small
without being overly sweet. The dough will grow silkier, tighter, and indentation, 1–1½ hours, depending on
easier to work with as you knead. how warm and humid your kitchen is.19
DOUGH Roll out dough into a rough 8" square. Place a rack in middle of oven;
¾ cup buttermilk or plain whole-milk Fold dough over onto itself to make an preheat to 350°. Bake buns, still
yogurt 8x4" rectangle, then flatten it slightly covered, until puffed, pale, and mostly
7 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided and fold over once more to make a set, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and
1 large egg 4" square. Roll dough back out to an continue to bake until golden brown,
¼ cup (packed; 50 g) dark brown 8" square and repeat folding process about 15 minutes if you prefer a soft and
sugar (you should be back at a 4" square). squishy bun and up to 25 minutes for a
1 ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast Pour remaining 1 Tbsp. oil into a medium more toasted bun. Let cool slightly.
(about 2¼ tsp.) bowl and add dough (still folded); turn Meanwhile, whisk powdered sugar,
FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN

3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour to coat. Cover bowl tightly and chill buttermilk, and vanilla in a medium bowl
¼ tsp. baking soda dough until doubled in volume, at least to combine.
1 tsp. kosher salt 8 hours and up to 1 day. Brush glaze over warm buns and
serve in skillet.
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Place dates in a
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY D O A H E A D : Purée can be made 3 days
1 cup (packed; 180 g) Medjool small bowl and pour in 1½ cups hot ahead. Place in an airtight container;
dates, halved, pitted water to cover. Let soak until softened, cover and chill. Bring to room
2 tsp. ground cinnamon about 10 minutes. temperature before using.

16–Both Dutch-process and natural 17–To keep the reserved 18–Resist the urge to add flour 19–If your kitchen is
cocoa powder will work here, brownie batter loose, to your hands or the work surface. cold, let the buns
but the former will provide a deeper put it in a warm place, If the dough is too sticky to handle, rise in a turned-off
color and a smoother, richer flavor. like near the oven. you can lightly oil your hands. oven with its light on.

63
 Garlic, onions, and leeks make (almost) everything better, but too often they’re
stuck in a supporting role. We say it’s time they grabbed the spotlight

t e x t b y J E S S E S PA R KS recipes by ANDY BARAGHANI photographs by ALEX LAU

64
S C A L L I O N PA N C A K E S
WITH CHILI-GINGER
DIPPING SAUCE
P. 6 6

65
 P
E R H A P S Y O U ’ V E N O T I C E D T H E C R A Z E : Swarms of chefs
going AWOL to forage for ramps. Farmers market goers elbowing each
other to get to the piles of bulbs and greens. What’s all the fuss? Alliums
bring complexity and backbone to pretty much everything they touch.
And when they’re in season, the bounty of produce arriving at your local
farmers market will be significantly better than the stuff you’re used to
seeing at the grocery store. This spring we’re getting up close and personal with these
fragrant vegetables. Charring leeks until they’re smoky-sweet. Slow-roasting green garlic
until jammy and tender. These recipes make the case: Alliums are worth the hype.

Scallion Pancakes With crisp and cooked through, about

Chili-Ginger Dipping Sauce 5 minutes longer. Transfer pancake to a
4 S E RV I N G S
These pancakes get their wire rack. Repeat process with remaining
light texture from a batter made with batter and remaining 3 Tbsp. oil 3 more
club soda. Pressing hard on them when times to make a total of 4 pancakes.
frying makes them crisp. Cut each pancake into wedges if
desired and serve with reserved sauce WHAT EVEN
on the side for dipping.
SAUCE
1 ½" piece ginger, peeled, IS AN
thinly sliced ALLIUM?
2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce Charred Leeks Onions and garlic: sure. But there
2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar With Honey and Vinegar are more. Here’s who gets the
lucky moniker allium—and what
1 tsp. chili oil 4 S E RV I N G S
Don’t be afraid to take the to do with them.
1 tsp. sugar leeks to the point where they almost look
burnt. A well-charred exterior means the
PA N C A K E S A N D ASS E M B LY interiors will be creamy, soft, silky, and L E E KS
1 cup all-purpose flour delightfully sweet. Ah, the gentle giants of the
allium clan. Look for long white bulbs
¼ cup cornstarch
and stalks with green leaves. Roast
1 tsp. kosher salt 4 medium leeks (about 2½ lb.), white or braise them with your next chicken.
1 tsp. sugar and pale green parts only, tough
1 cup chilled club soda outer layers removed (root ends G R E E N GA R L I C
2 tsp. low-sodium soy sauce left intact) Think of green garlic—which often
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine has purple -tinged stalks and flat
10 scallions, thinly sliced on vinegar leaves—as garlic’s milder sibling.
a diagonal (about 2 cups) 2 tsp. honey It steals the show in dressings.
4 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus
more for drizzling SCALLIONS
SAUCE Whisk ginger, soy sauce, vinegar, Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper They shine year-round. Grill them,
chili oil, and sugar in a small bowl until toss into fried rice, nestle into frittatas,
sugar is dissolved. Set sauce aside. Prepare a grill for high heat. Rinse off or whip up a sauce by sizzling sliced
scallions and minced ginger in oil and
any sand and dirt from leeks and pat finishing with soy sauce.
Whisk flour,
PA N C A K E S A N D ASS E M B LY dry. Arrange directly on grate (no need
cornstarch, salt, and sugar in a large to oil) and grill, turning every few minutes
RAMPS
bowl. Whisk club soda, soy sauce, with tongs, until outsides are completely Foraging fanatics freak when these
and sesame oil in a medium bowl to blackened (leeks should start to soften wild leeks pop up. Whir the greens into
combine, then pour into dry ingredients and may begin to release some juices), a pesto or sauté the bulbs and greens
and whisk until smooth (be careful not 12–16 minutes. in butter with breadcrumbs.
to overmix; it’s okay if there are a few Transfer leeks to a cutting board
small lumps). Fold in scallions. and let rest 10 minutes (the interiors will SPRING ONIONS
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium nonstick continue to steam and get even softer Slice these sweet and mild onions
skillet over medium-high. Pour ¼ cup as they cool). into rounds, then scatter them over a
batter into skillet. Cook, moving pan While the leeks are resting, whisk sad salad to make it, well, happy.
Look for firm white bulbs with sturdy
around on the burner for even cooking, vinegar and honey in a small bowl until
greens that stand upright.
until bottom of pancake is set and honey dissolves. Set dressing aside.
golden, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook, Cut leeks on a diagonal into 1½"–2"
GA R L I C
pressing down on pancake to create pieces. Transfer to a medium bowl and
You already know about the goodness
direct contact with pan, until other side toss with 2 Tbsp. oil; season with salt. of garlic (you do watch It’s Alive,
is golden, about 1 minute. Continue Transfer leeks to a platter and after all). Grab a head and give it a
cooking, turning often to keep scallions spoon reserved dressing over. Drizzle sniff. Good garlic smells earthy.
from burning, until golden brown and with more oil and season with pepper. A garlicky aroma is a sign of bruising.

66
 C H A R R E D L E E KS
WITH HONEY AND
VINEGAR

Leeks thrive when charred until dark and crisp. A stint over high heat turns
TRUST their insides tender and sweet, getting rid of any harsh bitterness—just
THE CHAR toss them into a dry cast-iron skillet or onto a grill whole. Once they’re off the
heat, let them rest. Like that last bit of sleep after your alarm goes off,
Want to take your leeks
those minutes make a difference; they give the leeks time to fully steam inside
to the next level? Start by
and get creamy-tender. And don’t stop there: Try the same technique with
cranking up the heat.
scallions, ramps, or spring onions. The world is your onion!

67
SHRIMP RAMP-Y
P. 7 0
 RAMEN NOODLES
WITH SPRING ONIONS
AND GARLIC CRISP
P. 7 0

69
Green-Garlic-Rubbed registers 155° (don’t worry; temperature Ramen Noodles With Spring
Buttery Roast Chicken will climb to 165° as the chicken rests), Onions and Garlic Crisp
4 S E RV I N G S
Roasting a whole chicken 80–90 minutes. Let chicken rest at least 4 S E RV I N G S
A slight twist on scallion
quickly at high heat is optimal for the 20 minutes and up to 45 minutes. noodles: the same savory, lip-smacking
crispiest skin but risks overcooking the Transfer chicken to a cutting board flavor but now with a lot of texture
meat. This method of going low and and carve as desired. Serve with roasted from the crunchy, spicy garlic topping.
slow is much gentler on the meat, keeping green garlic alongside.
it juicy yet shreddable underneath skin 1 bunch spring onions or scallions,
that crackles. very thinly sliced, divided
Shrimp Ramp-y 1 3" piece ginger, peeled,
1 3½–4-lb. whole chicken, 4 S E RV I N G S
The combination of garlic thinly sliced
patted dry and ramps may seem like overkill, but we 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper promise it’s not. The garlic will mellow ½ cup vegetable or sunflower oil
8 green garlic stalks, dark green as it cooks while the ramps stay pungent. ½ serrano or other green chile, thinly
tops removed, divided sliced (with seeds)
Zest of 1 lemon 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus ¼ cup finely chopped tender herbs
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room more for drizzling (such as cilantro, mint, and/or
temperature 1 bunch ramps (about 6 oz.), bulbs basil)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil and greens separated, bulbs 2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce
halved lengthwise, greens torn into 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
Season chicken all over inside and out 2"–3" pieces 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds
with salt and pepper (make sure to get in 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
and around every nook and cranny; ½ tsp. mild red pepper flakes (such as ½ tsp. kosher salt
about 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2½ tsp. Maras, Urfa, or Aleppo-style), plus ½ tsp. sugar
Morton kosher salt). Place on a wire more for serving 2 5-oz. packages fresh wavy ramen
rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet ½ cup dry white wine noodles
and let sit at room temperature while you 1¼ lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined, 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into
make the garlic butter, or chill, uncovered, preferably tails left on pieces
up to 1 day. If chilling, let sit at room 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
temperature 1 hour before roasting. Kosher salt Place half of spring onions in a large
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat ½ lemon heatproof bowl and set a fine-mesh sieve
to 325°. Coarsely chop 4 green garlic on top; set aside. Combine remaining
stalks; transfer to a food processor. Pulse Combine 3 Tbsp. oil and ramp bulbs in spring onions with ginger, garlic, and oil
until very finely chopped. Add zest and a large skillet. Set over medium heat and in a small saucepan. Set over medium-
butter and pulse until almost smooth. Cut cook, tossing occasionally, until bulbs high and cook, stirring occasionally,
remaining 4 green garlic stalks in half are softened but have not taken on any until garlic is golden and scallions are
lengthwise; set aside. color, 6–8 minutes. Add garlic and beginning to crisp and turn golden
Pat chicken dry again with paper ½ tsp. mild red pepper flakes and cook, brown, 8–10 minutes.
towels (this will help the butter adhere tossing occasionally, until garlic is Pour mixture through reserved sieve
and get the skin nicely browned). Smear softened, about 3 minutes. Add wine onto spring onions. Turn out garlic crisp
garlic butter all over chicken. Gently lift and increase heat to medium-high. Let in sieve onto paper towels to drain. Stir
the skin on the breast away from the flesh cook, stirring occasionally, until wine is spring onions in bowl until just softened,
and rub some butter inside. reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add about 1 minute. Stir in chile, herbs, soy
Toss reserved green garlic and oil in ramp greens, shrimp, and butter to sauce, vinegar, sesame seeds, pepper,
a large cast-iron skillet or 13x9" baking pan. Season with salt and cook, tossing salt, and sugar. Let dressing sit 10 minutes.
dish to coat; season with salt. Tie chicken occasionally, until ramp greens are Meanwhile, cook noodles according
FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME.
legs together with kitchen twine and tuck wilted, shrimp turn pink, and butter is to package directions. Drain and rinse
wings underneath back. Place chicken, melted, about 3 minutes. Remove skillet under warm water to get rid of any
breast side up, on top of garlic in skillet. from heat. Finely grate zest from lemon excess starch.
Roast chicken, rotating pan halfway half over shrimp, then squeeze in juice. Transfer noodles to bowl with dressing
through for even browning, until skin is Transfer shrimp to a platter. Sprinkle and add butter and half of garlic crisp;
golden and an instant-read thermometer with more mild red pepper flakes and toss to coat noodles. Divide among
inserted into the thickest part of breast drizzle with plenty of oil. bowls; top with remaining garlic crisp.

Kind of like Batman and Robin, Oprah and Gayle, Whoopi Goldberg
SHOW THEIR and Lauryn Hill in Sister Act 2 (have we made our point?), alliums and fat are
simply better together. Butter and olive oil round out garlic and onions’
SOFTER SIDES edges, while also distributing their flavor throughout the entire dish. That’s why
The key to coaxing flavor out we turn green garlic into a verdant butter to rub on roast chicken (see recipe
of these guys and mellowing above), why we simmer ginger, garlic, and spring onions in oil with
their harshness? Fat. serrano chile for a warming sauce to drizzle over noodles, and why we
roast spring onions in an olive oil bath for an easy side.

70
GREEN-GARLIC-RUBBED
B U T T E RY R OAS T
CHICKEN
 MIKE GUGGINO
sound mixer
and Led Zeppelin cover
band guitarist

S O H L A E L - WAY L LY
assistant food editor
and trusted
culinary adviser

TYRE NOBLES
producer
and corporate credit
card holder

RHODA BOONE
food director for video
and Claire’s “biggest
cheerleader in
her darkest moments”
In this episode,
Claire chose to
re -create three
crowd favorites (and
hers): Thin Mints,
Tagalongs, and
Caramel deLites.

A FEW THINGS

212
CLAIRE WOULD LIKE
TO CLEAR UP

“ We’re not sponsored

Where to Find the Citric Acid
by companies that make There’s a cabinet in the test kitchen that MILLION
snack foods. We do holds the Gourmet Makes pantry, which contains
THE TOTAL NUMBER
necessities such as: tomato powder (Doritos,
eat the leftovers (there’s an Combos, Hot Pockets), four types of coconut oil
OF VIEWS OF
GOURMET MAKES
office Slack channel (Almond Joy, Sno Balls), citric acid (for the
S O FA R — A N D
sour coating on Warheads), and two types
about it). And I’m not here THE P OPUL ATION
of cocoa powder (black cocoa for Thin Mints OF BRAZIL.
against my will.” and regular for Tagalongs).

72 BY A L E X B E G G S P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY
 Three years ago, BA’s Claire Saffitz started EPISODE 39
“Girl Scout Cookies”
re-creating snack foods on YouTube. And you
AIR DATE
guys, uh, got into it. We went behind the scenes March 17, 2020
of her breakout series, GOURMET MAKES, DIFFICULTY LEVEL
and learned a few things that surprised even us Too Easy for Claire

Editors are
KEVIN DYNIA
always at work in
the background. director of cinematography
Filming continues even and pro
when things get loud, wrestling superfan
like the whir of a
blender or the clang
of a stockpot.

CLAIRE SAFFITZ
host
and patron saint of
perseverance

Watch this episode

DAN SIEGEL at bonappetit.com
/gourmetmakes
director
and No. 1 Claire
wrangler

The Gourmet
Makes Museum
4 Things You Don’t See Onscreen
Some of Claire’s makeshift tools are
on display by the video team’s
offices: the Mentos-drying “torture
device” made of toothpicks in a
foam board, molds for Oreos, and
now, a hand-painted Girl Scout C L A I R E ’S C O F F E E THE DOWNTIME CULINARY BURRITOS!
ASSISTANTS
sash with a patch, “Cookie Diva,” It’s hidden behind While the dough This crew takes
that she made for this episode. the stack of is chilling, the They’re standing on their lunch break
cookie boxes. One crew plans what the sidelines, ready seriously. People
time she wedged kitchen tool they’d to grab some gotta eat
it into a jelly use in a zombie cornstarch at a something other
moment’s notice.
m

bean container. apocalypse. than cookies.

m

73
 Z
BA U
L Y LA
OL EX
y
M AL
b b y
xt hs
te ap
g r
to
p ho

74
 He may be America ’s most uncompromising Italian food
fanatic, but EVAN FUNKE sure knows how to coax the flavor
out of a few spring vegetables and a box of spaghetti
 I f t here ’s on e f ac t t ha t bes t def i nes
E va n F u n ke , i t ’s t hi s : H i s l i t er a l
j o b i s t o m a ke p a s t a , b u t he r e f us e s
t o ea t t he s t u f f i n A me r i c a .
His fear, he says, is that American pasta might Which is to say, I was a bit intimidated when
sully his sensory recall of the revelatory pasta- I flew out to L.A. to meet Funke—especially
eating experiences he’s had in Italy. And since I had gone to ask him for five regular old
for the chef-owner of L.A.’s handmade-pasta store-bought dried pasta recipes that one
temple, FELIX TRAT TORIA, could easily make at home.
that’s simply not acceptable. Walking past the glass-
Funke is a man obsessed, walled pasta laboratory and
on a self-assigned lifelong catching a glimpse of a
mission to save obscure plaque that read “F*#% Your
pasta shapes from the brink 3 Dried Pasta Pasta Machine,” I was wor-
of extinction. It all began 13 Brands That ried that when he heard my
years ago with an appren- Funke Can Dig request he might throw a vat
ticeship in Bologna, where The sauces in these recipes of perfectly salted pasta
are designed to highlight excellent
he worked alongside pasta pasta. So your first ingredient water straight at my face.
should be, well, excellent pasta.
maestra Alessandra Spisni. But no! Turns out Funke is
Since then he has returned RUSTICHELLA nearly as enthusiastic about
to Italy twice a year to find D’ABRUZZO cooking dried pasta (as
When you’re on the hunt for
small-town sfoglini, or pasta those obscure, lesser-known shapes, long as it’s very good dried
look no further than this nearly
makers, each of whom has century-old brand, which started pasta—made in Italy, of
perfected one particular in Penne, Italy, in 1924. ($10 for
17.5 oz.; casarustichellain.com)
course) as he is the fresh
passed-down-through-the- stuff. And though his metic-
generations shape. He doc- MOLINI DEL PONTE ulousness may be slightly
Funke spent some time in
uments their anthropology, Castelvetrano, Italy, with the guy maniacal, he’s also pretty
who makes this stuff, using an
masters their technique, and ancient grain called tumminia. down-to-earth. Over the two
Twisty busiate is Funke’s preferred
brings each shape back to shape; he likes to pair it with pesto.
days we spent together, he
L.A. with him, from floppy ($15 for 17.6 oz.; gustiamo.com) enlightened me, surprised
diamonds of testaroli to ruf- GAROFOLO me, humbled me, and proved
fled squares of quadrefiore. Born back in 1789 in to me that with a little finesse,
Gragnano, Italy, where natural
In fact, no pasta shall grace spring water flows and the climatic a lot of respect, and adher-
conditions are apparently ideal
the menu at Felix if it hasn’t for drying pasta (legit!), this brand
ence to the five simple rules
been physically taught to has mastered the art of texture you’ll find on the following
at an accessible price point.
Funke by the hands of a ($5 for 16 oz.; eataly.com) pages, even dried pasta has
native Italian. the potential to transcend.
76
 SEIZE THE
SEASON
Your pasta is only
as delicious as the
ingredients with
which you pair it.
Create sauces from
local vegetables
that have lived
happy lives. In late
summer, fat juicy
Sun Gold tomatoes
with a bit of garlic
and olive oil are all
you need for a
perfect spaghetti
sauce. In the dead
of winter, toss hardy
greens through
cheesy baked ziti.
And come spring?
Blanch shelled fresh
English peas in
pasta water to bring
out their peak-
season sweetness.

TAGLIATELLE
WITH PROSCIUTTO
AND PEAS
P. 7 9
 DRESS IT,
DON’T
DROWN IT
The glory of pasta,
Funke taught me,
should be the pasta,
not the sauce. Turns
out I’ve been
oversaucing all my
life! But from here
on out I’ll be
wearing a bracelet
that reminds me:
D.I.D.D.I. Sauce
should celebrate the
craftsmanship of
pasta rather than try
to steal the spotlight.
The citrusy olive oil
sauce that naps
on these noodles
does just that,
bringing out the
spaghetti’s limber,
delicate nature.
“Coco Chanel that
s**t,” Funke says.
“She was all
about restraint.”

S PA G H E T T I
AL LIMONE WITH
A S PA R A G U S
Spaghetti al Limone ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter Heat ¾ cup oil in a large Dutch oven
With Asparagus 6 oz. prosciutto, thinly sliced or other heavy pot over medium until
4 S E RV I N G S
Do your best to thinly slice (about 12 slices) shimmering. Add garlic, hardy herbs,
the asparagus on a deep diagonal so 16 sage leaves fennel pollen (if using), and red pepper
that it bends and twirls around your fork 2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about flakes and cook, stirring often, until oil
just as easily as the spaghetti does. 1 cup), plus more for serving around garlic starts to sizzle slightly and
garlic begins to turn golden brown,
1 lb. spaghetti Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling about 2 minutes (be careful when you
Kosher salt salted water, stirring occasionally and add the garlic as the oil may spatter).
⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil adding peas about 2 minutes before Add spring greens and tender herbs and
1 large bunch asparagus, trimmed, pasta is done, until al dente. Drain pasta season with a couple pinches of salt.
thinly sliced on a deep diagonal and peas, reserving 1½ cups pasta Cook, stirring often, until greens and
4 garlic cloves, smashed cooking liquid. herbs are wilted and bright green, about
4 3"-long strips lemon zest Meanwhile, heat butter in a large 2 minutes. Scrape herb mixture onto a
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Dutch oven or other heavy pot over rimmed baking sheet; spread out and let
8 large basil leaves medium until frothy. Tear prosciutto slices cool slightly. Reserve pot.
2 lemons, halved into bite-size pieces and add to pot Transfer herb mixture to a blender or
2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about along with sage. Cook, stirring food processor and add ½ tsp. salt and
1 cup), plus more for serving occasionally, until prosciutto is golden remaining ½ cup oil; blend on high speed
brown and beginning to crisp, about until you have a coarse purée. Taste pesto
Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling 4 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit and season with more salt if needed.
salted water, stirring occasionally, until until pasta is done. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling
al dente. Drain pasta, reserving 1½ cups Add pasta, peas, 2 oz. Parmesan, salted water, stirring occasionally, until
pasta cooking liquid. and 1 cup reserved pasta cooking liquid al dente. Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup
Meanwhile, heat oil in a large Dutch to pot with prosciutto and return to pasta cooking liquid.
oven or other heavy pot over medium- medium heat. Cook, tossing vigorously Scrape pesto back into reserved pot
high until shimmering. Add asparagus, and adding more pasta cooking liquid if and add pasta and ¾ cup pasta cooking
season with salt, and cook, stirring often, needed, until saucy and pasta is coated, liquid. Set over medium-low heat and
until just beginning to take on color, about 30 seconds. Taste and season cook, tossing vigorously and adding
about 1 minute. Add garlic, lemon zest, with more salt if needed. more pasta cooking liquid if needed,
and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, Divide pasta among bowls and top until warmed through and pasta is coated
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove with more Parmesan. (do not let pesto come to a boil), about
from heat and let sit until pasta is done. 1 minute. Taste and season with more salt
Add pasta and basil to pot with if needed.
asparagus mixture and return to medium- Fusilli With Battuto di Erbe Divide pasta among bowls. Using a
high heat. Squeeze juice from both 4 S E RV I N G S
This pasta recipe, which mandoline or vegetable peeler, shave
lemons into pot and add 2 oz. Parmesan evokes the flavors of wild herbs that grow cheese over pasta.
and 1 cup reserved pasta cooking liquid. on the hillsides around Bologna, is a D O A H E A D : Pesto can be made 1 day
Cook, tossing vigorously and adding great way to use up any leftover herbs ahead. Transfer to a bowl set in a larger
more pasta cooking liquid if needed, and greens in your fridge—use as many bowl of ice water and let cool. Remove
until sauce is creamy and emulsified and or as few as you’d like. bowl with pesto from water; cover tightly
pasta is coated, about 1 minute. Taste and chill.
and season with more salt if needed. 1¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Remove and discard garlic. 1 garlic clove, smashed
Divide pasta among bowls, placing 1 oz. mixed hardy herb leaves (such
a lemon strip in each, and top with as rosemary, sage, thyme, READ ON!
more Parmesan. and/or marjoram; about Want to learn more about handmade
1 heaping cup) pasta? Grab Funke’s cookbook,
1 tsp. fennel pollen (optional) American Sfoglino ($23; amazon.com).
Tagliatelle With Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
Prosciutto and Peas 7 oz. tender spring greens (such as
4 S E RV I N G S
If they’re in season, look for arugula, dandelion, and/or
fresh peas. And if not, there is no shame broccoli rabe leaves; about 5 cups)
in using frozen—it’s one of the few frozen 5 oz. mixed tender herb leaves (such
vegetables we can get behind. as mint, basil, lovage, celery
leaves, and/or parsley; about
1 lb. tagliatelle 6 cups)
Kosher salt ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1½ cups shelled fresh peas (from 1 lb. fusilli (spiral-shaped pasta)
about 1½ lb. pods) or frozen peas Piave cheese (for serving)

79
 IS IT
WORTH IT?
WORK IT!
The secret to Funke’s
supremely creamy
(yet creamless!)
sauces? Vigorously
stirring the pasta
with a wooden
spoon as soon as it
hits the sauce. This
coaxes out the
starch and helps the
noodles bind with
whatever fat you’re
using to create, as
he says, a truly
“groovy” dish.
The method
transforms this
simple guanciale
fat and hot water
emulsion into
glossy perfection.

BUCATINI
ALLA GRICCIA
WITH
FAVA B E A N S
P. 8 2
 FUSILLI WITH
BAT TUTO DI ERBE
P. 7 9

RESPECT
YOUR
ELDERS
Through trial and
error, generations
of sfoglini have
established perfect
shape and sauce
pairings. So don’t
just go willy-nilly!
It’s all about
viscosity: Thicker
sauces crave wide,
flat noodles with
plenty of surface
area, while thinner
sauces go best with
nooks and crannies
in which to catch
and linger. Here
fusilli is an ideal
magnet for the fine
texture of herby
spring batutto.
Bucatini Alla Griccia Rigatoni With Fennel
With Fava Beans and Anchovies
4 S E RV I N G S
Think of this as carbonara 4 S E RV I N G S
Something truly magical Rescued
minus the eggs but still with massive happens when fennel, garlic, and From Obscurity
amounts of flavor from guanciale, black anchovies get caramelized together in
You probably won’t find these
pepper, and Pecorino. olive oil, then paired with citrus zest. Even rare Italian pasta shapes at your
the firmest anchovy haters will agree. local grocery store. But if Funke
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns has his way, they’ll never be
8 oz. guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl) 3 large fennel bulbs (about 2½ lb.) forgotten. (Funke even has a
1¾ cups fresh fava beans (from about ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil new docuseries, “Shape of
1¾ lb. pods) or frozen fava beans Kosher salt Pasta,” on his quest to re -create
Kosher salt 6 oil-packed anchovy fillets endangered varieties. Find it on
1 lb. bucatini 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced the Quibi app starting April 6.)
2 oz. Pecorino Romano, finely ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
grated (about 1 cup), plus more ½ cup (packed) mint leaves, plus
for serving more torn for serving
Freshly ground black pepper 1 orange or tangerine
1 lemon
Place peppercorns in a bag, close, and 1 lb. rigatoni ORECCHIETTE
coarsely crush with a rolling pin or heavy 3 oz. Pecorino Romano, finely ALLA PUGLIESE
skillet (alternatively, you can crush them grated (about 1½ cups) Though orecchiette (a.k.a. little ears)
is now a widespread pasta shape,
directly on a cutting board set inside a Funke believes that the highly
large rimmed baking sheet). Slice Remove tough outer layers and fronds coveted and precise version made
guanciale into ¼"-thick slabs, then slice from fennel bulbs and discard. Working in Bari Vecchia by a sfoglina
slabs crosswise into ¼"-thick matchsticks. one at a time, cut bulbs lengthwise named Nunzia Caputo is
If using fresh fava beans, cook in a (through root ends) into quarters, remove unparalleled. She is known for her
large pot of boiling salted water until just cores, and slice quarters lengthwise into machinelike precision and unrivaled
speed, churning out perfectly
tender (the best way to gauge doneness ½"-thick wedges.
consistent handmade orecchiette at
is to check one; be sure to slip it from Heat oil in a large Dutch oven a rate of 60–70 RPM.
its skin before tasting!), about 3 minutes. or other heavy pot over high until
Using a spider or slotted spoon, transfer shimmering. Add fennel to pot, arranging
to a bowl of ice water; let cool. Drain in as even a layer as possible. Season
and peel away outer skin from each with salt and cook, undisturbed, until
bean; discard skins. Reserve pot with golden brown underneath and starting
boiling water for cooking pasta. to soften, 6–8 minutes. Using tongs, turn TESTAROLI
Place guanciale in a dry large Dutch fennel over and cook until golden brown Way back when (we’re talking
oven or other heavy pot and set over on the other side, 6–8 minutes. Etruscan times), this crepelike
medium-high heat. Cook, stirring often Reduce heat to low and add batter of wheat and water was
with a wooden spoon, until golden anchovies, garlic, red pepper flakes, cooked over hot rocks, rolled flat,
brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. Add and ½ cup mint to pot. Cook, stirring and cut into diamond shapes in a
crushed peppercorns and stir once to often, until anchovies are disintegrated town called Pontremoli—pasta’s
ground zero. Today only a few
combine. Add 1 cup hot tap water (using and garlic is golden, about 2 minutes.
people in the world still practice the
pasta cooking liquid here could make Remove pot from heat and finely grate craft, including Funke. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME
the dish too salty) and bring to a boil. zest of orange and lemon directly into
Remove pot from heat and stir mixture hot oil; stir well to evenly distribute.
aggressively to emulsify. Let sit until pasta Cover pot to keep sauce warm and let
is done. sit until pasta is done.
Return reserved pot of water to a boil Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large
and cook pasta, stirring occasionally pot of boiling salted water, stirring STRAPPATELLE
(if using frozen fava beans, add about occasionally, until al dente. Drain pasta, This Umbrian specialty comes from
2 minutes before pasta is done), until reserving 1½ cups pasta cooking liquid. small torn pieces of bread dough
al dente. Drain pasta and fava beans. Uncover sauce, add pasta and 1 cup and looks a lot like gnocchi when
Add pasta, fava beans, and 2 oz. reserved pasta cooking liquid, and set cooked, though the texture is more
Pecorino to pot with guanciale and set over medium-low heat. Add Pecorino like pizza dough. Funke learned to
make it in 2010 from a woman he
over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring and cook, tossing vigorously and adding says was the last in Italy to
vigorously and adding more hot tap more pasta cooking liquid if needed, produce the shape. She’s since
water if needed, until saucy and pasta until sauce is emulsified and pasta is passed away, leaving Funke as
is coated, about 2 minutes. coated, about 2 minutes. keeper of her technique.
Divide pasta among bowls and top Divide pasta among bowls and top
with more Pecorino and ground pepper. with torn mint.

82
SALT IT LIKE
SOUP—NOT
THE SEA
For BA’s biggest
sodium fan (me), this
rule was particularly
difficult to stomach.
But Funke is
adamant: When
salting pasta water,
think soup, not the
sea. Because soup
is delicious, and
sea water is...not.
Two tablespoons
of kosher to three
quarts of water
should do it.
Especially when
your sauce
is already salty.
Helloooo, anchovies!

RIGATONI WITH
FENNEL
AND ANCHOVIES
 C LO C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T
 A great day for surfing  Vibes at Chez Loutcha  The tea
ceremony known as attaya  Chez Loutcha’s sausage -and-
bean stew  Doesn’t it look fun at La Pointe?  Don’t miss
Plage des Mamelles and its lighthouse  Whole fish is better
by the water  Breaking up the seafood with a hot dog snack
 All of the uni  It’s called Surfer Paradise for a reason

photographs by BRAD OGBONNA

Equal parts sleepy beach town,
cosmopolitan metropolis, and
creative enclave, Senegal’s
coastal food capital of DAK AR
is as dynamic as it is delicious.
Let born-and-bred chef
PIERRE THIAM be your guide

85
 the culture of hospitality FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

Shellfish by
the Beach
Along the rock-lined shore
of Dakar’s western coast
sits a collection of shacks
and food stalls known
as La Pointe, slinging
big portions of seafood
just plucked from the
water. Order from multiple
stands: steamed clams,
buttery uni, grilled grouper
bundled in newspapers,
pungent riff on Portuguese moonshine. You can sip crisp beers on rocky beaches
plus big spoonfuls of
while devouring platters of steamed clams and salted fish at sunset, then dance cassava and couscous.
to jazz music till daybreak. Dakar’s emphasis on hospitality weathered centuries Head to the communal
tables, or take your food to
of British and French colonization. In the years following, the city became a hub the beach’s large rocks
for Vietnamese and Lebanese communities who had been displaced by Euro- for an even better view.
pean rule, giving it a distinctly multicultural edge. Dakar, my hometown, is where Ride the Wave
I learned to cherish afternoon tea ceremonies, where I spent countless nights at I may not be a big surfer,
restaurants that turned into dance parties, grabbing lamb skewers still hot from but Dakar’s surfing culture
is undeniable. And with
the grill at street vendors along the route home. Eventually I built a life in New the hype comes popular
York City running my restaurant, which captures the spirit of Senegalese cooking, beachside shops like
Surfer Paradise and
named—what else?—Teranga. But I still try to return to Dakar every April, after the hangouts like Secret
blistering heat subsides but before the torrential downpours arrive. There’s no Spot (pictured). While lots
better time to come home. — A S T O L D T O J E S S E S P A R K S of people once considered
surfing a sport for white
people, I’m excited about
Want to get a taste of West Africa without having to buy a plane ticket? Check out Thiam’s NYC restaurant, how it’s becoming more
Teranga, or one of his three cookbooks: Senegal, The Fonio Cookbook, and Yolélé. and more democratized.

86
Family Meal
Nothing captures the warmth of
Dakar like sharing a platter of
thieboudienne, tomatoey rice flecked
with carrots, cassava, and pieces of
fish. It’s frequently served in homes,
as pictured here, but it’s also widely
accessible at restaurants and hotels.
I recommend Le Thiof (see page 89).
Skewers for the Squad
A stall located in the center of Sandaga, one of the city’s most
vibrant neighborhoods, Bante Yi is always a hub of activity with
tourists, clubbers, and people working late. They’re all filing into
the same line for the stall’s specialty: dibi, or grilled meats like offal
and lamb rubbed in a fiery peanutty spice mixture called souya.

88
 FROM LEFT TO RIGHT,
TOP TO BOT TOM:

Keep It Fresh
When the food on a whirlwind
tour of restaurants starts to feel
a little too rich, you’ll want to
order a cup of fresh and floral
hibiscus juice (pictured) or tart
baobab juice. While you can find
both throughout the city, I’m keen
on La Calebasse’s not-too-
sweet approach to baobab.

Get the Cachupa

Don’t be discouraged by the
unrelenting crowds spilling
out of the nondescript apartment
building that houses
Chez Loutcha. The cachupa,
or peppery sausage-and-bean
stew, at this Senegalese–
meets–Cape Verdean restaurant
is worth the wait.

Wine and Dine

When I come back to Dakar,
La Cave is where I relax. It’s a
French wine bar with an extensive
array of bottles plus charcuterie,
cured fish, and sardines. Its deep
European wine reserves are a
nod to Dakar’s colonial past, but
its diverse clientele and
unpretentious, laid-back vibes
plant it firmly in the present.

A Sports Bar With Soul

When she opened her bar in the
summer of 1988 during the Seoul
Olympics, Therese Mendy
adopted that city’s name for her
business. Now its second
iteration, Seoul 2, has become
a neighborhood cornerstone
known for playing international
sports on mounted televisions,
barbecuing hulking cuts of lamb
and pork, and pouring regional
beers (my go-tos are Gazelle,
a pale lager brewed in Dakar,
and Star, an amber lager brewed
in Nigeria).

Banana Break
Stroll the shores at Plage Pointe
des Almadies and you’re sure
to run into groups of fruit sellers
offering whatever they have in
stock. Grab a banana and spend
a lazy day on the water.

The Big Catch

The white stucco walls and stark
FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

blue lighting of Le Thiof may

channel a dinner in the
Mediterranean, but the food will
ground you here in Dakar. Order
the thiof braisé—smoky grilled
grouper with plantains and rice
(pictured)—or the millet risotto
capped with smoked fish.

89
 behealthyish.com

good food. good health. good vibes.

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

 S T E P-BY- TIPS &
STEPS TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

Bacon Bits
A motivational, inspirational
(and sure, instructional) guide to
breakfast’s best supporting actor

by AL EX BEG GS
PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA FISHMAN.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN

A P R I L 2 0 2 0 – 91
 Bacon has nothing
to do with Sir
Francis (or Kevin).

Look for bacon

that’s almost equal
parts white (fat) and
pink (meat). That’s
the good stuff.
2
1 If you want your
WA I T, W H AT I S B AC O N? mind blown, get
thee to the butcher
Bacon starts with fatty, wonderful pork belly, i.e., the
meat from the underside of a pig. The belly gets cured Not only does butcher bacon
usually have a deeper, more
(seasoned and left to rest for a week or two) with a dry rub meaty-funky flavor, thanks to
that dr y rub, but it can also
of salt, sugar, and spices (the ol’-fashioned way) or be sliced as hef ty as you’d
like . Quar ter -inch -thick slabs
a liquid injection (big producers). Then it’s smoked for a few you can grill and ser ve as an
hours or days, sliced, and packaged. It keeps for around appetizer? Done! A single strip
for a pot of soup? Fine . And if
seven days in the fridge once it’s been opened, more like it’s from a fancy-pants/nose -
to-tail/sustainable butcher, the
five if it’s from the butcher, or for months in the freezer. animal was likely treated bet ter.

N A T U R A L LY S M O K E D UNCURED THICK-CUT

When packaging brags about Anything labeled straight-up Exactly what it sounds like. It’s
applewood- or maplewood- “bacon” must legally contain prime BLT material but never
smoked bacon, that’s a good sodium nitrite, which is added as steak house thick as what
thing. Originally, the primary to preserve it, delay botulism, you can request at the butcher
3 purpose of smoking was for and create that fresh-looking counter. Note: You’ll need to
ALL THE TERMS, preservation. Nowadays it’s pink color. Bacon with no cook this at a lower heat for
also a key factor in the bacon’s added sodium nitrite must be slightly more time to ensure the
DECODED flavor, as the wood lends a sold as “uncured bacon.” bacon gets crispy rather than
sweet-smoky aroma. Be on the Confusingly, it’s still cured, but chewy. We like to bake it in the
Bacon packaging is crowded with lookout for ingredient lists with sea salt, celery powder, oven (see point 4), then brush
a lot of marketing mumbo jumbo that include “smoke flavoring” and a lactic acid starter culture. it with maple syrup and throw
intended to make you think some and pass them by: Flavor These ingredients work together it back in for five more minutes
is healthier than others. (It’s not. from actual wood always beats to make…naturally occurring until glazed and caramelized.
It’s bacon.) Let’s take a closer look: the fake stuff from a bottle. nitrites, which aren’t superior. Serve with pancakes, hello!

92 – APRIL 2020
 4
We endorse the
oven method
The stove might be fine for a
strip or three, but to make
evenly cooked bacon for a
crowd, turn on your oven.
The slices get crispety-crisp
and you won’t have to
dodge any spattering fat.

1
Preheat oven to 4 0 0°.
Line a rimmed baking sheet
with foil. Distribute the
bacon in a single layer.

2
Cook anywhere between
15–25 minutes, depending
on the thickness of the bacon.
Keep an eye on it and rotate
the pan half way through .

3
When you’re at your desired
Get the recipe at
state of crispiness, transfer
bonappetit.com
bacon to paper towels and
/bacon-frisee -salad
pour of f fat to use later.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG (SALAD). FOOD STYLING: PEARL JONES (BACON SLICES); KAT BOYTSOVA (BACON SLAB, SALAD).
B AC O N B E LO N G S I N V I N A I G R E T T E
Turn any salad into something you’d pay 17 euros for in a bistro.
Slice 6 oz. thick-cut bacon crosswise into 3/4"-thick pieces.
Cook in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring often,
until just shy of crisp, about 5 minutes. Add 1 sliced shallot
and ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper and cook, stirring
occasionally, until shallots are just softened, about 2 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in ¼ cup red wine vinegar ,
scraping the pan to collect all those browned bits. Stir in
1 Tbsp. honey, then adjust acid and sweetness. Toss with frisée,
chives, and croutons, then top with a poached egg. Et voilà!
5
Save that fat
Leftover bacon fat is like 7
a gourmet infused oil. Don’t
waste it when it’s at your WHERE DID IT COME FROM?
fingertips. Pour it into a jar
and store in the fridge for, Bacon has been around for thousands of years. It was originally cured
practically, ever. Use it to in salt as a way to preserve meat in a time before refrigerators. A British
scramble eggs, fry bread, guy named John Harris found a way to crank up production with a
sauté onion, roast potatoes, wet-curing process still used today. Refrigeration came around and in
sizzle chicken thighs, and O S C A R F. M AY E R 1924, Oscar Mayer became the first company to preslice and safely
burst cherry tomatoes. B a c on L e g e n d
package it for retail sales. And now look where we are! Bacon paradise.

94 – APRIL 2020 For more ingredient 101s, crystal-clear cooking advice, and easygoing recipes, go to eatbasically.com.
Now is the time
to start listening.

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recipe index sourcebook
TRAVEL PLANNER
MY BIG WEEKEND:
SOUTH PHILLY pp. 33–36
BITAR’S 947 Federal St.;
215-755-1121; bitars.com
CAFÉ DIEM 1031 S. Eighth St.;
215-923-8347; facebook.com/pages
/Cafe-Diem/143088755727119
CARANGI BAKING COMPANY 2655
S. Iseminger St.; 215-462-6991;
carangibakery.com
CENTER CITY SOFT PRETZEL CO.
816 Washington Ave.; 215-463-5664;
centercitypretzels.com
THE DEACON 1600 Christian St.;
347-868-2996; thedeaconphl.com
FOUNTAIN PORTER 1601 S. 10th St.;
267-324-3910; fountainporter.com
ITALIAN MARKET 919 S. Ninth St.;
215-278-2903; italianmarketphilly.org
JOHN’S ROAST PORK 14 E. Snyder
Ave.; 215-463-1951; johnsroastpork.com
Gotta get LE CAVEAU 614 S. Seventh St.;
those dimples.
215-625-3700; lecaveaubar.com
P. 62
KALAYA THAI KITCHEN 764 S. Ninth
St.; 215-385-3777; kalaya.net
COOK THE COVER MEAT Tagliatelle With Triple-Threat Onion McCUSKER’S TAVERN 2601 S. 17th St.;
Cinnamon-Date Piri-Piri Meatballs Prosciutto and Peas Galette p. 59 215-339-9238; facebook.com
Sticky Buns p. 63 p. 16 p. 79 /mccuskers-tavern-262441460507105
VEGETABLES,
Pork and Asparagus POULTRY
BREAKFAST SIDE DISHES RAY’S “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” BAR
Stir-Fry p. 28 Green-Garlic-
Cinnamon-Date Rubbed Buttery Roast Charred Leeks With 1200 E. Passyunk Ave.; 215-365-1169;
PASTA AND Honey and Vinegar
Sticky Buns p. 63 Chicken p. 70 thehappybirthdaybar.com
NOODLES
p. 66
Sour Cream and Bucatini Alla Griccia Spring Chicken RIVER TWICE 1601 E. Passyunk Ave.;
With Fava Beans Dinner Salad p. 20 Scallion Pancakes 267-457-3698;
Onion Biscuits p. 61 With Chili-Ginger
p. 82 VEGE TARIAN rivertwicerestaurant.com
BREAD Dipping Sauce p. 66
Fusilli With Battuto di Fusilli With Battuto di ROYAL IZAKAYA 780 S. Second St.;
Shockingly Easy Erbe p.79 Erbe p.79 DESSERTS
No-Knead Focaccia 267-909-9002;
Ramen Noodles Miso Polenta With Camouflage royalsushiandizakaya.com
p. 62 With Spring Onions Chocolate Fudge
Spring Vegetables
Sour Cream and and Garlic Crisp p. 23 Brownies p. 62 SKY CAFÉ 1122-38 Washington Ave.,
Onion Biscuits p. 61 p. 70 Cardamom-Pistachio Unit B; 215-271-1983; skycafephilly.com
Ramen Noodles
Rigatoni With Fennel With Spring Onions Carrot Cake p. 60 SOUTH PHILLY BARBACOA
MAIN COURSES
and Anchovies and Garlic Crisp Salty Buckwheat 1140 S. Ninth St.; 215-360-5282;
SEAFOOD p. 82 p. 70 Chocolate Chunk southphillybarbacoa.com
Shrimp Ramp-y p. 70 Spaghetti al Limone Spaghetti al Limone Cookies p. 61
Soy and Ginger STARGAZY 1838 E. Passyunk Ave.;
PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN.
With Asparagus With Asparagus Tahini Billionaire Bars
Steamed Fish p.18 p. 79 p. 79 p. 60 215-309-2761; stargazyphilly.com
TAMALEX 1163 S. Seventh St.;
215-465-1665;
bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2020 condé nast. all rights
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 Questionable Etiquette

Is It Ever Okay…to Kick

Guests Out of Your House?
Solicited dinner party advice from Alex Beggs

What do I do if someone
brings a guest who has a ton
of dietary restrictions without
giving me advance warning?
—UNPREPARED URSUL A
Hey, there’s a lot you can do
with a sweet potato! Plus they Is it appropriate to start
keep forever in a cool, dark cleaning up while guests
place, which is where I want to are still around?
—ORDERLY ORVILLE
go when a guest pulls this one
on me. Otherwise all you have People make this a much bigger
is honesty: “I’m sorry to hear deal than it needs to be.
you’re not eating nightshades Cleaning up is a part of cooking.
right now, my good friend No one’s going to think you’re
Tom Brady. But as it turns out, being antisocial by doing dishes.
everything on tonight’s menu In fact, if you lasso someone
How do you politely tell contains nightshades. Did you into drying, you get a buddy!
Put on your pink rubber gloves
happen to bring anything?”
people to GTFO? Depending on your relationship and get it over with.
—TIRED T YRESE and temperament, you can let
them scrounge the pantry for a Can I just fold a paper towel
Fall asleep on the couch like I do— snack or you can let them suffer. in half and call it a napkin?
Your house, your rules. —QUILTED QUENTIN
works every time. Alternate technique: No! Get cloth napkins, for
Smile and say, “Thank you guys sooo the sake of the planet and the
sanctity of dinnertime.
much for coming. I loved hearing that
story about your coworker’s loud
chewing. Unfortunately I have to wake
up early tomorrow to [harmless lie],”
then start clearing the table slowlyyy.
The conversation is DEAD.
What’s the best move for
How do I bring it back to life
It’s hard to host a thought-out hosting in a tiny apartment?
without being awkward?
dinner when you’re ballin’ Do I clear the room for one
—DECEASED DEIRDRE
on a budget. Can I request big folding table or eat picnic
Conversation starters (the first
that my guests chip in cash? style? Does a couch count as
five are free):
—HUSTLING HUGO appropriate seating?
Yes, but ONLY if you ask when —IT T Y-BIT T Y ISABELLE •“Have you ever seen a ghost?”
you invite people over and Depends on the mood you’re •“Is it me or have pants been
not after the fact with a late-night trying to set and how you feel in a weird phase lately?”
If people are running late, do Venmo request. Here’s your about crumbs in the couch •“Does anyone know Chuck E.
I have to wait to serve dinner? script: “I’m dying to cook an cushions. One long table means Cheese’s real name?”
At what point can the show amazing elaborate dinner for you you’ll need to get out the serving •“Who here opens and eats
go on without them? and [other names of mutual platters and acquire chairs food in the grocery store
—IMPATIENT IMOGENE friends who’ll be there to set them because things are getting before you pay for it?”
I’m assuming you padded in some at ease]. Are you free [date at formal. Scattered around the •“Anybody been to the Panama
ILLUSTRATIONS BY IGOR BASTIDAS

cocktail hour cushion time before least two weeks away]? The thing coffee table (totally fine! Vacuum Canal lately? Still cool?”
you planned to serve dinner, is, I have big dreams, but I’m the crumbs out later!) says we’re •“You guys…like…books?”
between 30 and 60 minutes. on a budget, so I was wondering gonna blast the music and drink •“How do you sharpen
Anyone who’s 60-plus minutes if you’d be willing to chip in a little too much and tell stories a serrated knife?”
late is unfashionably late. This $10 to $20 for groceries.” about the friend who isn’t here. •“Alexa, play Jeopardy!”
isn’t the Vanity Fair Oscar Party If they’re broke too, look up our Your guests will be fine with •“Natural deodorant.”
with tiered entry times depending $50 dinner party series on whatever you’ve set up. They’re •“Martha Stewart’s Instagram.”
on how unfamous you are! Go bonappetit.com. Make the black- here to hang out with you. They •“Has anyone been canceled
ahead and serve the enchiladas. eyed-pea stew. It’s amazing. love you! Awww! this week?”

98 – APRIL 2020 Do you have bad manners? Find out by emailing your etiquette questions to [email protected].
A little bread.
A little cheese.
A lot of Wow.
 The all-new Toyota Highlander, for whenever, wherever.
When it’s time to go out, go with the available, best-in-class 12.3-in. touch-screen display.*
Go with advanced technology and even more advanced style. Go with the cargo space you
need. Don’t just go. Go together and get the most out of every day, or night. Let’s Go Places.

toyota.com/highlander Prototype shown with options. *2020 Highlander vs. 2020 competitors. Information from manufacturers’ websites as of 09/19/19.
©2020 Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.